Big Things Big Things

Transcription

Small Talk on
Big Things
brought to you by Global Adjustments
Small Talk on Big Things 1
Small Talk on
Big Things
brought to you by Global Adjustments
4
Small Talk on Big Things
© Global Adjustments Services Pvt. Ltd. 2016
Conceptualised and Published by
Global Adjustments Services Pvt. Ltd.
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RA Puram, Chennai 600028
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Email: [email protected]
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Cover Image
Gautam Patole (www.artdesh.com)
Editorial Team Ranjini Manian
Susan Philip
Yamini Vasudevan
Sethulakshmy Nayar
Brand & Communication
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Design
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Project Lead
Nayaab Musvee
Advertising & Circulation
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Vyjayanthi Rajiv
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ISBN: 978-81-909181-6-9
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6
Introduction
Welcome to a pictorial journey of India!
Small Talk on Big Things is an attempt to provide handles of conversation with
which the ice may be broken when we come in contact with people from ethnic, social,
linguistic and cultural backgrounds different from ours – a tool to make small talk
that will lead to big things! The book has images taken by foreigners living in India
and is a view of beautiful India via their lens. It also aims to give every Indian tidbits
useful for introducing an overseas friend or colleague to some of the many interesting
components of this wonderful land of ours.
Small Talk on Big Things has been divided into chapters that deal with some of the
fascinating facets of India – for example, its arts and crafts, its wildlife, its movies, its
cuisine, the games that have been played here since ages past, and the contributions
its people have made to this country, and to the world at large. Some of the snippets
of information provided in each chapter may have a ‘so what’s new?’ ring to them, but
could give someone else an ‘Oh, I didn't know that!’ moment. We hope that everyone
who reads Small Talk on Big Things gets to take away something valuable – a new
nugget of information or a fresh insight into something familiar, to ignite curiosity and
to share.
Look out for the boxes marked Part and Parcel – they deal in a little more detail
with some particular aspect of India or being Indian. The India Owns It! boxes, also
strewn across the book, highlight some of our country’s major contributions to the
world order.
So come, discover, explore, and may Small Talk on Big Things kindle in you an India
desire. The Upanishads, the Hindu scriptures, say you are what your deep driving desire
is. We hope to ignite in you a desire to continue to know and to spread the word about
the richness of this incredible country.
Ranjini Manian
Editor-in-Chief, Culturama
Founder & CEO, Global Adjustments
E-mail: [email protected]
CONTENTS
8
Culture
Mannerisms and Manners
12
Arts and Crafts
16
Cooking Up a Storm in India
22
Getting Around India
30
Entertainment
The Cricket Craze
36
Fairs and Melas
42
Downtime Delights
50
Cinema Cinema
54
Tradition
Customs of India
66
India’s Contributions
76
Fabrics of India
80
Accessorising India
90
Nature
The Wildlife of India
98
Monsoons in India
104
Green India
112
Part & Parcel
Grandma’s Medicine Cabinet 28
Indian Slang
40
On the First List
60
Benevolent, Beautiful and Beloved
74
Beating the Summer Heat
88
On the Elephant Trail
102
For Children, Of Children
110
The Road Rules
116
Acknowledgements
122
Photo: Meredith Chipperton, Australia
10
Culture
Mannerisms
& Manners
Just like every nationality,
Indians have their own body
language which signals to
others their state of mind and
conveys attitudes and intentions
better than words can. Although
the diversity of the country’s
ethnic groups means that some
of the body vocabulary differs
from region to region and from
community to community, there
is still enough commonality
for inter-group understanding.
There’s also a common minimum
list of manners. Here’s a cheat
sheet to decode the signs and
be thought good mannered.
Photo: Aurelie Marsan, France
12
India is the birthplace of several world religions.
Hinduism has won international respect for its
emphasis on peace and tolerance. Buddhism
spread from here across China, Japan, Indonesia
and other countries of the Far East. Jainism and
Sikhism are other religions which originated in
India and have had significant world impact.
India
owns
it
Finger pointing could be
rude. In India, the whole palm is used instead
as an indicator. To beckon, the palm is held
facing down, and the curled fingers are waved.
The hand held the other way, beckoning with
one curled finger, will be taken as an insult.
The Indian head wobble is
ubiquitous but referring to it too much is offensive.
It’s a mannerism that has become so ingrained
among Indians that it is unconscious. In the Valmiki
Ramayan, India’s ancient epic, there is a reference to
keeping the head steady for effective communication.
A foreigner is likely to read it as a sign of dissent, but,
in general, it signifies listening and attentiveness.
Arms akimbo: Watch out for this pose.
This pose is normally used when somebody is about
to start an argument or impose their authority. Smiling
(as in the photo) is also not always helpful, as Indians
generally consider this stance an indication of superiority.
Photo: Helen Ruth Taylor, UK
Photos: Myles John Cummings, UK
PDA (public display of affection) is so NOT India. In many contexts, Indians are uncomfortable with even
casual acts such as draping an arm around someone of the opposite sex (although same-sex touches don’t mean anything but friendship)
or giving them a welcome kiss. Social mores are changing, though. With more exposure to the practices of the West, the younger
generation is becoming more demonstrative when showing affection. Still, in much of India, it is still far from being the norm.
Sharing space is
hard to do in India, given
the population figures.
Markets, malls and movie
theatres are usually heaving
with people, and Indians are
often happy with literally
zero personal space in some
cases. Yet, personal space is
important, especially when
two genders are involved; so
if you see someone backing
up as you approach, take
that as a signal that invisible
barriers have been breached.
Photo: Mary Kay Fallbeck, USA
14
Wink and whistle: Facial expressions are something
to watch out for in India – winking, eye contact and whistling may
be interpreted sometimes as sexual innuendos. School yourself to
be aware of what the facial muscles are up to – yours and those of
others. You don’t want to misunderstand or be misunderstood.
Anti-evil eye manoeuvre: You may
find old ladies circling your head or that of your child with
their hands and then breaking their knuckles on their own
heads. It’s a gesture believed to ward off the evil eye.
Treading on toes is
something we all do inadvertently,
both literally and figuratively.
In India, we make amends for
the literal deed by means of a
traditional gesture of apology
involving actually touching or
gesturing towards the person who
has been trodden on and cupping
the hand to the heart or eyes.
Photo: Carlo Sem, Italy
Photo: Anoushka Raval, UK
Standing for respect: Respecting age is a
non-negotiable component of good manners in India. Old
people are shown deference irrespective of social standing.
When elders enter the room, youngsters usually stand up
and wait to be asked to be seated. When addressing older
people, suffixes like ji in the north and forms of address
like neenga or ningal in the south are routinely used.
Crossing your knees doesn’t signify modesty in India,
unlike in the West. In fact, it can be considered rude or arrogant. It’s
safer to sit with ankles crossed. Also, if you sit with your legs stretched
out, take care not to have your feet pointing towards an elder. It could be
taken as a sign of disrespect. The lotus pose – sitting cross-legged – is a
safe option, anytime, anywhere. It could be hard for modern, ‘inflexible’
muscles and ligaments to achieve, but it’s a pose worth mastering.
Arts
& Crafts
With its diverse ethnicity
and multiple influences from
settlers coming from around
the world for centuries, India
has a fabulous heritage of art.
Local artisans working with
rudimentary equipment in
humble homes turn out a mindboggling variety of handicrafts,
and trained craftspersons
and artists equipped with
sophisticated tools add
modern tints to traditional
crafts. Together, they make
sure India is a treasure trove of
beautiful things. Read on for a
sampling of some unique Indian
handicrafts that you can pick
up from various parts of the
country. They make excellent,
interesting gifts and souvenirs.
16
Photo: Diana Grieger, Germany
Tree resin extracted by the lac
insect lends itself beautifully to
jewellery making. It is coloured and
melded into myriad shapes and hues.
Colourful lac bangles, earrings and
chains, dazzlingly painted and
stone-encrusted, as well as curios,
are easily available in India. Rajasthan
and Delhi are particularly famous for
lac items. And the best thing is that
they don’t cost a lakh (the Indian
term for 100,000). They’re inexpensive
and add style to any outfit or room.
Photo: Gayatri Krishnamoorthy, Creative Commons
Bidri is a unique, ancient metal craft of India, using brass alloys
to make artifacts with a jet black finish and gleaming silver inlays. It
takes its name from Bidar, a village in the southern Indian state of
Karnataka, where it originated. The art has been handed down from
generation to generation of skilled craftsmen, who live and work mainly
in present-day Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and, of course, Karnataka.
Ivory was a product that ancient India was famous for. Even
King Solomon was believed to have bought some. Ivory carving is
an age-old tradition; however, following a government ban, artisans
now work on bone. Antique pieces can still be found, though. Ivory
combs are a rare and precious accessory today. Earlier, many homes
had one, not only to help untangle the knots in long hair but also to
remove lice, as the teeth of the combs are made very close together.
Miniature paintings are a hallmark of Indian
art. Though heavily under Mughal influence, the style has
evolved into something encompassingly Indian. Brilliant
colours and ornate detail characterise these paintings, which
have mostly love, religion and the royal courts as themes.
18
Possibly the oldest documented system of
medicine, ayurveda now draws patients from all
nations to India’s shores. The Charaka Samhita
by Acharya Charaka (regarded as one of the
earliest experts in the field) is a revered treatise
on medicine. Similarly, Shushruta was one of the
first persons in ancient India to study anatomy.
India
owns
it
Oryza sativa, or unhusked rice, is used by tribal craftsmen
of Orissa to make amazing artifacts. It’s a fast-disappearing art
as there are now only about fifteen families that know how to
laboriously knot one grain of rice to another to make chains and
shape these to create baskets, figurines, garlands, and the like.
Thanjavur paintings are much admired examples of
Indian art. They take their name from their place of origin – Thanjavur
in Tamil Nadu (the British colonisers called it Tanjore). The stunning
colours of these paintings apart, this type of art work is embellished with
semi-precious stones, gold lace and thin sheets of gold and silver mounted
as relief, which give it a three-dimensional effect. Hindu religious themes
are the most common, although royal ones are equally beautiful.
Warli paintings are pictures with a distinctive style,
made originally with rice flour paste on walls by the Warli tribe
of Maharashtra. They depict everyday activities and show people,
animals and plants. Similar in simplicity to cave paintings, they’re now
commercially available, done with white paint on brown backgrounds.
Rajasthan in the east and Agra in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh are
Photo: India Tourism Chennai
particularly famous for marble work. Skilled craftsmen carve
the stone intricately and inlay it painstakingly with tiny bits of differently
coloured marble, and even mother-of-pearl. The designs may be geometric,
or motifs drawn from nature, but they’re all exquisite. They range in size
from small boxes that fit in your palm, to table tops and huge panels.
20
Natural dye paintings are also characteristically
Indian. Folk artists use nature’s palette to create distinctive works. The
Madhubani, Patachitra, Ragamala and Kalamkari forms of painting are
some of the more famous styles that use natural dyes. Wooden blocks are
often used to print on cloth. These blocks are carved with traditional
motifs, depicting peacocks, flowers, fruit and also geometric patterns.
You can pick them up at craft shows and handprint your own outfits.
Kondapalli toys, which have been given the protective
Geographic Indication (GI) status, are made in Andhra Pradesh. It’s
India’s take on Enid Blyton’s Toy Town! Whole families work on
the intricately carved and painted handmade wooden toys, which
display a remarkable attention to detail. Channapatna in Karnataka,
another southern Indian state, is also famous for its wooden toys.
Cooking Up
a Storm
Photo: Joe Mon BKK, Wikipedia
22
Indian cuisine is so varied and
vast that, sometimes, even
within the same state, food
varies drastically according to
the sub-region. From techniques
to ingredients, from fresh
produce to aromatic spices, from
meat, sea food and vegetables
to pulses, beans and grains,
India’s culinary tradition is
something to behold. With
recipes handed down through
generations, cooking methods
mastered through painstaking
practice, and innovation that
is in tune with food practices
abroad, India is the perfect
place to tease your palates
with a mindboggling variety.
Curry? What’s that? To an Indian,
the word ‘curry’ doesn’t
mean anything specific.
The root could possibly
be the Tamil kari, which
the British adopted
and adapted to mean a
sauce-based dish spiced with a
variety of Indian condiments,
containing meat or vegetables. But in actual fact, there are so many
types of cuisine in India, each with its own signature combination
of spices and other ingredients, that if you go to a restaurant in this
country and simply order ‘curry’, you would get nothing but a blank
stare. Even a qualifying word such as ‘chicken’ or ‘vegetable’ probably
wouldn’t fetch a visitor from overseas what he had in mind. He would
need to be more specific about the region and cuisine he’s looking for –
‘Malabar chicken curry’ (chicken in a coconut-based sauce), for example,
or ‘Punjabi chole masala’ (chickpeas in spicy gravy). Curry powder
is available though as a readymade amalgamation of spices including
red chillies, which adds special flavour to vegetable or meat dishes.
Chicken tikka masala is one of the most
popular takeaways in Indian restaurants abroad. The British
claim it’s one of their national dishes, but it is firmly associated
with the Indian subcontinent. You would be hard put to find
a reference to it in traditional Indian cookbooks; nevertheless,
in a case of reverse osmosis, many eateries in India now do
have it on their menus. Basically, it’s a dish of roasted boneless
chicken pieces served dry or in a spicy, creamy gravy.
Tadka or tempering is a process of cooking
unique and integral to all cuisines in the Indian subcontinent.
Oil is heated, and a seasoning of a basic minimum of
mustard seeds, dry red chillies and curry leaves are added.
This tempering is done either at the start of the cooking
process or as the final touch. The bursts of flavour released
into the oil by the curry leaves, popped mustards and
chillies add a special level of taste to any Indian dish.
Samosas, pakodas, bajjis, vadas, pav-baaji and chaats are some
pan-Indian teatime snacks. Pakkodas and bajjis are
fritters; samosas are deep-fried cones of pastry with different
types of filling; vadas can best be described as savoury lentil
doughnuts; pav-baaji is a dish of small toasted and heavily
buttered buns served with a spicy mash of vegetables; while
tangy, crunchy chaats come in a wide, tongue-tickling variety.
Photo: Naomi Hattaway, USA
Photo: Michelle Klakulak, USA
Tandoori is a word that goes easily with ‘naan’ or ‘chicken’.
It refers to a method of cooking. A tandoor can be described as a clay
oven which is fired by coal or wood. The heat generated by the fuel is
accentuated as it bounces off the walls of the oven. It is closed while
cooking; and though breads can be cooked in it, it is most useful for
meat. Chicken or lamb marinated in special yogurt-based sauces are
threaded on to skewers and lowered into the oven. Tandoori cooking
doesn’t need extra oil or fats, thus making it a healthy option.
24
Customary breakfast food in the south, all of India loves idlis and
dosas. Both are made of a wet batter of rice and a lentil (a variety
called urad dal). Idlis are made by steaming the batter in special moulds,
while the same batter is spread on hot griddles to make dosas – which
are like salted pancakes or crepes. The idlis can be spiced with sautéed
ginger, green chillies, pepper and the like, while the dosas can be made
thick or thin, plain or stuffed with a variety of ingredients, ranging
from spicy potatoes to minced meat. Both are usually served with a
variety of chutneys (dipping sauce often made from coconut) and piping
hot sambar – a vegetable and lentil soup. The idli has been named the
second most nutritious breakfast food by the WHO, next to muesli.
Biryani is the best-known one-pot rice dish. It is a ‘celebration dish’
all over India. The preparation varies according to geographic location.
The saffron-infused Lucknowi version is usually made by layering
partially pre-cooked rice and meat and slow-cooking in a sealed vessel.
The Hyderabadi incarnation is spicier, while in the Mumbai variety kewra
water (an extract from the Pandanus flower) brings another dimension
of taste. Kolkata’s twist is to add potatoes to the meat; and all along
the Malabar Coast, the rice used is not the customary Basmati but a
short-grained variety. Then there’s the Sindhi biryani, the vegetarian
tehri and many more. The lighter pulao or pilaf is a firm favourite, too.
You get them in both vegetarian and non-vegetarian styles, and up
north, in Kashmir, an extra layer of flavour is provided by the addition
of dry fruits and nuts, sometimes even small chunks of fresh fruit.
Pappads and pickles are part of the Indian meal, no matter
which state you visit. Pappads can be of different types and sizes. In
Tamil Nadu, the big, fragile appalams are the most popular; in Kerala
you have stouter, smaller versions known as pappadams; while in the
north, the pappads come spiced with pepper and cumin, and are usually
roasted, not deep fried. While pappads add crunch to the typical Indian
meal, pickles give it a lift. Raw mangoes and tart lemon are most popular
as the star ingredients of pickles. They are usually made with sesame oil,
and the taste differs from state to state. Garlic, ginger, gooseberries, green
chillies, a particular species of greens and even fish and meat are pickled
too. A word of caution: high in salt content as they are marinated, these
accompaniments to Indian meals are not what doctors order in excess.
Calico, chintz and muslin were among the biggest
attractions India held for the world. Typical items
of Indian clothing have also become world fashion
statements. The Nehru Jacket, adapted from an
outfit favoured by India’s first Prime Minister,
Jawaharlal Nehru, was adopted by the Beatles
and even characters in James Bond movies.
26
India
owns
it
Grandma’s Medicine Cabinet
In times past, run-of-the-mill ailments did not depend on
sophisticated equipment for diagnosis, nor did they need highpowered medicines to treat. Remedies for everyday problems
such as an upset tummy or blocked nose, an adolescent
tendency towards oily skin or the aches and pains of old age
were treated with things commonly found in the Indian kitchen
or in the garden. Many of these remedies are still as effective.
Let’s take a look at some household cures for simple problems.
Tulsi, the Indian basil, is useful for several ills. Soak 30–40 leaves
overnight in a litre of water, strain and drink the water through the day to
ease asthma. To get relief from a persistent cold, boil some tulsi leaves with
some crushed ginger, cloves and black pepper corns till the liquid becomes
a dark brown. Add a little honey to this, and drink it hot. Those who are
prone to colds and coughs can build up their immunity by boiling a few
tulsi leaves and adding the liquid to their first cup of tea regularly each day.
Honey itself is very efficacious for coughs and colds. Those suffering
from a severe attack can try a tablespoon of lukewarm honey mixed
with a quarter teaspoon of cinnamon powder daily for three days.
28
Neem is a powerful antibacterial agent, and is
quite useful in fighting the common cold. Strip a
couple of neem twigs of leaves, and boil the twigs
in water with a pinch of turmeric. Inhale the steam,
covering your head with a towel and holding it over
the vessel. When it boils down, strain the liquid and
drink it three times a day, mixed with a little honey.
For a constipated tummy, a drink of milk boiled
with turmeric and figs works
wonders. So does a brew made of the dried and
powdered leaves of a hibiscus plant.
Pomegranate is very good for
stomach disorders. Cut up the rind of a fruit,
boil down in water, filter, mix with honey and
sip to control diarrhoea and vomiting.
Ginger soaked in honey and chewed slowly will relieve flatulence.
Bishop’s weed, known as omam in the south
and ajwain in the north, is also effective in cases of
indigestion. Boil the seeds in water along with cumin, strain
and drink in small quantities till symptoms disappear.
The black plum, known as Jamun or the Jambu fruit, is
believed to be excellent in controlling blood sugar. Eat the fruit when
it is in season, and dry the seeds to keep for off-season times. Powder
the seeds with fenugreek and have a teaspoon full before bedtime.
If you want to control your cholesterol levels before they get out of
hand, substitute jams with a paste of honey and cinnamon
powder. Have it with bread, rotis and even idlis and dosas every day.
Cinnamon is also a remedy for chronic arthritis. A teaspoonful
of powdered cinnamon can be mixed in a cup of hot water, along with
two teaspoons of honey, and drunk every day for long-term relief. Also,
a topical application of one part of honey with two
parts of lukewarm water and a teaspoon of cinnamon
powder on affected areas brings quick relief.
For a nagging headache, try applying a paste
of 2 teaspoons of turmeric powder, a quarter
teaspoon of dry ginger powder and a few
saffron strands, mixed with water.
The kitchen can also provide many beauty aids. A
mixture of gram flour and top of milk,
combined with a pinch of turmeric powder and a
few drops of lemon juice rejuvenates dry skin.
Gooseberries are good for lustrous,
healthy hair. Eat a few fresh berries. A paste
made of gooseberries boiled in milk and mashed
into a pulp, applied to the scalp and left on for
20 minutes before washing strengthens the
roots and gives the hair bounce and sheen.
Getting
around India
Photo: Jocelyn Wright, New Zealand
India has been a dream travel
destination in ages past and
in modern times, too. Travel
within the country offers
a galaxy of unforgettable
experiences. Here’s a quick
look at aspects of Indian
modes of transport that may
not be common knowledge.
30
Photo: Sophie Fontant, France
Autorickshaws are three-wheeled public transport vehicles which are
ubiquitous in urban India. Some cities have them all over, while others have pockets
where autos (short for autorickshaws) also known as tuk-tuks, ply. In some metros,
bigger versions of these autorickshaws function as public share taxis. They ply from
point to point and cost only a fraction of the fare exclusive autorickshaws charge.
Photo: Mikhail J. Gorbatov, Russia
Photo: Paul Burger, UK
Palanquins are synonymous with exotic India. The elite, particularly
women, in ancient India and even during the British era used them. These
litters, or covered seats on poles carried by men on their shoulders, can still be
seen on the steep Himalayan and other mountainous pilgrim trails. In cities,
it gave place to hand-pulled rickshaws, which in turn were replaced by cycle
rickshaws. Other exotic ancient modes of transport included elephants and
horse-drawn carriages. Camels are still used in the deserts of Rajasthan.
From Harley-Davidson motorcycles to the humble, simple bicycle,
from ‘mopeds’ to funky-hued ‘scootys’, India’s youth love anything
on two wheels. The famous Royal Enfield motorcycles are
manufactured in the south of India and exported all over the world.
Best compliments from
32
The Ambassador car from the Hindustan Motors
stable was once the undisputed king of Indian roads. Even now
these cars ply as taxis, and Western visitors find it amazing to
see the old Morris Minor look-alike from the 1960s still on the
roads. A Government of India–Suzuki joint venture resulted in
the trailblazing Maruti 800, and things accelerated quickly. Now,
all global majors, Ford, Hyundai, Renault, Mitsubishi, Nissan
and BMW included, have a presence here. Not to forget the
Nano, the world’s cheapest four-wheeler, from the house of Tata.
Pegasus Travels And Tours Pvt Ltd.,
1-A Dev Apts, 4/16 First Main Road, Kasturba Nagar,
Adyar, Chennai-20 Ph 044 24401526/27/28. Direct 044 42187311
Photo: Tamal Mitra, Creative Commons
India has one of the world’s largest rail networks.
Trams were introduced in India by the
British. Horse-drawn ones were replaced by
vehicles which ran on electricity. Kolkata,
Chennai, Delhi and Mumbai all had them;
but all except the first have since discontinued
this particular public transport service.
The Indian Railways has all types
of trains – suburban, long-distance and freight.
The first train service was introduced in 1853
between Mumbai (then Bombay) and Thane.
The subsequent expansion of the network made
direct travel between Bombay and Calcutta (now
Kolkata) possible in 1870. It was considered
such a milestone that French author Jules Verne
included it in the plot of his famous book
Around the World in Eighty Days. Today, it’s
possible to enjoy the quaintness of travelling in
a ‘toy train’ in the hill sectors of Darjeeling in
the north and Ooty in the south, the luxury of
travelling in the plush ‘Palace on Wheels’ brand
of trains, and everything in between, too!
Till recently, India had only two
airlines, both state-owned. However,
the open sky policy has spawned multiple
private domestic players. Indigo with a
ramp to board the aircraft, SpiceJet with
its fleet named after various spices, and
other private carriers vie for passengers.
Buses are good for both short- and longdistance travel, and are run by the government
as well as the private sector. Air-conditioned
video coaches are popular for inter-state
travel, and hop-on hop-off buses to view
major attractions are becoming popular in
various cities. Chennai has Asia’s largest bus
terminus, and the Andhra Pradesh Road
Transport Corporation holds a Guinness
Book record for the world’s largest fleet.
Photo: Ashok Vishwanath, India
34
Entertainment
The Cricket
Craze
Indians talk, dream and live
cricket. Hockey may be our
national sport, but cricket is
our enduring passion. The
ability to talk intelligibly, if not
intelligently, about the game
is a guaranteed ice-breaker.
Assuming a basic familiarity with
willow, leather, pitch and overs,
here’s an Indian cricket trivia
bouquet to help you hold up
your end of the conversation!
Photo: Fabian Lange, Germany
36
Photo: David Brossard, Creative Commons
World Cup memories have twice lit up the souls of Indian fans across the globe – first, in 1983, when Kapil Dev led his men
to a most unexpected victory at Lords, England, and again, in 2011, when M S Dhoni achieved the same feat on home ground.
Chakka and Chaar Run are
two Hindi terms you need to know if you’re
listening to a bilingual cricket commentary. The
first means a sixer and the second, four runs.
38
T20 or TwentyTwenty games were
Ranjitsinhji was the
first Indian to play Test cricket.
He represented England, not
India, in his debut match in
1896. The scion of a royal
family, he is considered one
of the greatest batsmen of
all time. A major domestic
tournament, the Ranji Trophy,
is named after him. Another
famous blue-blooded cricketer
was the Nawab of Pataudi.
introduced with a view to
bringing the time frame
of cricket matches closer
to that of other popular
sports. The teams bowl
a maximum of 20 overs
each. The format went
global in 2007, with
the first international
tournament being held
in South Africa, when
India made history by
defeating arch rivals
Pakistan by five runs in
the cliffhanger final.
Sachin is a name to contend with, even worship, in India. In this country, cricket
often evokes the fervour usually reserved for religion, and, carrying this forward, Sachin
Tendulkar is nothing short of a God. The ‘Little Master’ (a reference to his huge talent despite
his small stature) has made history by scoring his 100th century in International Cricket.
Wisden has ranked him the second greatest cricketer of all time, after Sir Don Bradman.
Eden Gardens in Kolkata is India’s
biggest cricket stadium and the world’s
second biggest in terms of seating capacity.
Established in 1864, it since then has been
the scene of many an exciting match and of
records being made and broken. Mumbai’s
Wankhede and Chennai’s Chepauk are
other well-known cricket stadiums.
Indian
Slang
The Constitution of India lists 22 languages under the ‘official’
category, but the ground reality is that there are a bewildering
variety of dialects and mother tongues in this vast country.
Add to them the region-specific slang with connotations and
insinuations that are apparent only to the native speaker, and
even the average Indian finds himself floundering in anything
but his own familiar milieu. Indian slang does not limit itself to
Indian languages; it also resorts to the innovative use of English
words which the rest of the world understands differently. Here’s
a random sampling of lingo that you may expect to hear on the
streets, in office corridors, clubs, pubs and marketplaces of India.
Photo: Jean Denis Lenoir, France
Item can be taken either as a complimentary term or a derogatory one,
depending on the point of view, so use it with care as an adjective – it
means ‘hot chick’ or ‘babe’ and is understood across language barriers.
Osi is now an accepted word in Tamil and Kannada, and is derived
from the letters ‘O.C’ dating back to the British East India Company.
These magic alphabets stood for ‘On Company Service’, and any
parcel or letter marked ‘O.C’ meant it was exempted from stamps or
postage duties. In course of time, it has come to stand for anything
that is free of charge. If your company sponsors a concert or a cricket
match, you and your family can get ‘osi’ tickets for the event.
40
Solpaadjustmaadi is a piece of colloquial Kannada
very useful to know. Say it to a family of five, complete with
bulging bags of shopping, squeezed into a bus seat for two, and,
miraculously, a space opens up! Literally meaning ‘please adjust
a little bit,’ it works like magic. At the sound of it, all injuries,
trodden-upon toes included, are immediately forgiven.
In Tamil Nadu, you know you’re accepted
as part of the gang if you’re addressed
as machaan (machi if you’re a
woman). It literally means brother-in-law.
The Malayalam counterpart is aliyan,
while in Hindi it is saala. But be warned,
saala can also be used as a term of abuse.
And just to add to the confusion, in
Kannada, aliyan means son-in-law.
Photo: Jean-Baptiste Henry, France
atkinson, UK
Photo : Ian W
Pukka is a Hindi word, but it was adopted by the
British to mean something that is first class or genuine. In
India, it could also mean everything’s OK, complete or
for sure. So you have the ‘pukka sahib’ or the real or fullblooded aristocrat, as well as ‘I’ll get it done tomorrow,
pukka,’ meaning both definitely and completely.
Yaar is a Hindi word meaning friend; it’s an accepted
colloquialism. ‘Hi yaar!’ is a common greeting. Casual
conversation is also liberally interspersed with this word,
as in ‘Arey yaar, have you heard the news? Rohit has got
a promotion’. In Tamil and Kannada, yaar is replaced by
da (or di in the case of women) and in Telugu, by ra.
Bindaas means ‘carefree’ or ‘cool’, as in ‘He has a deadline
coming up soon, but see how bindaas he is about it!’
Funda is an abbreviation of the English word fundamental,
and is used loosely to mean ‘reason’ or ‘rationale’. ‘What’s
the funda about this protest yaar?’ you may ask of the man
in the car jammed next to you as you wait for a stream of
flag-waving, slogan-shouting procession to cross a point.
By-two: At almost
any eatery you could
overhear someone
tacking this term to
an order for tea. Or
else, when you order soup at
a restaurant, the waiter might look enquiringly at you and ask ‘By-two?’
In some parts of India, the term used is ‘cutting’. It’s a reflection of India’s
adaptability even in sharing food orders, and simply means ‘Do you want
your order split into two portions?’ (Even a ‘by-three’ is possible.)
Jhakkas is the
Mumbaiite’s way of
saying something
is ‘mind-blowing’.
It could be used
for anything
from a starlet’s
performance to a
project presentation.
Fairs and
Melas
Life is a celebration in India!
All through the year, there’s an
important event happening
somewhere in the country.
Usually, these are linked to
religious occasions, but they’re
also cornucopias of culture
and cuisine, an opportunity
to taste Indian carnival fare.
Photo: Benjamin Bowling, USA
42
If you’re into crafts, then the
Surajkund Mela is
Photo: Marcel van Mourik, The Netherlands
definitely the place to be. You
get to see live demonstrations by
master craftsmen, not only from
the length and breadth of India
but also from other SAARC
(South Asian Association for
Regional Cooperation) countries.
Shop for handicrafts and textiles,
savour the rural ambience and
enjoy the classical and folk art
performances that are part of the
fair. Mark the date in February.
Photo: Jerry John, India
The Aranmula Vallamkali is an annual boat regatta full of colour, sound and excitement, held on Kerala’s River Pampa. Unique river
craft called snake boats are rowed by about a hundred oarsmen each. Paddling to the rousing, rhythmic chants of singers, and the crowd goes into a
frenzy cheering them on. The race is a major tourist attraction during the Onam festive season, which usually falls between August and September.
44
Hampi, the capital of the erstwhile Vijayanagar Empire,
comes alive again once a year. Located in the southern
Indian state of Karnataka, for three days this World
Heritage site hosts a cultural extravaganza of music and
dance shows, drama and pyrotechnics, set amidst ancient
temples and palaces. It is held in November each year.
The Goa Carnival, in the month of February, held just
before the start of Lent, was introduced by the Portuguese who once
controlled this part of the country. For three days, parades with
bands and floats are taken out, and there’s dancing and merrymaking
in the streets during the day and through the night as well.
Billed as the largest such event in the Asia-Pacific region,
the Jaipur Literature Festival
attracts authors from India and abroad. There
are interactive sessions, workshops, readings and
discussions. It’s another date to mark in January.
The Desert Festival
at Jaisalmer, Rajasthan, is a
three-day event that gives you a
glimpse of both the traditional
and the whacky sides of desert
life. You get to see the colourful
dances of the region, as well
as macho males vying for the
title of ‘The Man with the
Longest Moustache’. Watch a
camel polo match and smile
as the long-legged animals
‘dance’ to a band. Round off
the experience with a soulstirring concert of folk music
under a moonlit sky. It happens
around February each year.
Photo: Madhav Pai, India
The historical importance of the Qutb Minar, a heritage monument
The art, culture and sport of the Himalayan region are
showcased for two weeks every year at the Ladakh
Festival. Colourful processions with dance and music
displays wind through the streets of Leh, the biggest city, and
also of tiny villages. Lamas perform masked dances. There
are archery competitions, too, apart from a keenly contested
polo match for the Ladakh Festival Cup. It is organised
on the highest plateau in Kashmir every September.
46
in Delhi, is highlighted during the Qutb Festival
organised by the Delhi Tourism Board. Traditional qawwali
(religious songs) and ghazal singing, classical dance performances
and the soul-stirring music of native instruments such as the sitar
and the sarangi are juxtaposed with more modern music and
dance shows. While enjoying the cultural feast, visitors can also
take a culinary tour of the country via the food stalls put up by
various states. It happens in November-December each year.
Ajmer in Rajasthan hosts Urs, India’s largest Muslim fair once
a year. The venue is the dargah (tomb) of Khwaja Moinuddin
Chisthi, who founded a Sufi order. The six-day event marks
his death anniversary. Thousands of pilgrims gather from all
over India and abroad to pay homage to the Saint. Qawwalis
are sung throughout the day; and at night, special poetry
sessions are held. A rich kheer (milk pudding) is prepared at
the venue and distributed to devotees. The festival is celebrated
in the seventh month of the Islamic lunar calendar.
The Maha Kumbh
Mela, considered the most
sacred of Hindu pilgrimages,
occurs once in 144 years! The
last one was in 2010. There
are Ardh Kumbh Melas held
annually and Purna Kumbh
Melas once in 12 years. They are
celebrated at different locations,
based on the alignment of the
planet Jupiter with the Sun and
the Moon. On these auspicious
dates, the waters of the Ganga
and Godavari are believed to be
especially effective in cleansing
sins. Millions of people gather
from all corners of India to take
ritual baths in these rivers.
Photo: Melissa Freitas, Brazil
Photo: Sakshi Krish, India
Connoisseurs of southern Indian classical dance and music
can treat themselves to a feast of performances during a jampacked few weeks each year, when the city of Chennai hosts
Makar Sankranti or Uttarayan is a special
day on the Hindu calendar. On this date, many Indian cities organise
Kite Festivals, a tradition perhaps introduced by Muslims from Persia.
The biggest Kite Festival is probably the one at Ahmadabad, Gujarat,
where swooping, soaring kites of all colours and shapes crowd the sky.
Competitors come from China, Japan, Southeast Asian countries, the
United States and other Western nations. It happens every January.
48
the Margazhi Festival. Shows are organised
at multiple locations across the city, including in temple
precincts and heritage buildings. It happens in DecemberJanuary, when the climate of the city is most pleasant.
India was one of the first countries to produce
diamonds and, even today, is one of the
world leaders in cutting and polishing the
gems. Famous stones from India include the
world’s largest pink diamond, the Daryai-Noor or Sea of Light, and the largest cut
diamond, the Koh-i-Noor, Mountain of Light.
India
owns
it
Downtime
Delights
There’s so much to see and do
in India, you’ll find it difficult
to decide where to begin. This
vast country offers something
for everyone. For the adventure
lover, there is a variety of sports,
ranging from paragliding to
snorkeling. For the nature
lover, there’s a whole host of
wildlife parks and mountain
treks to explore. The shopaholic
and the bargain hunter will
find bliss in myriad bazaars,
apart from posh malls galore.
History buffs can have their fill
of gazing at amazing artifacts
from India’s hoary past in
museums, and its palaces and
mansions. In India, downtime
is anything but boring.
Photo: Karla Kivlehan, UK
50
Photo: Cedric Fontant, France
Photo: Justyna Wasilewska
Photo: Katrin Harm
At the other end of the geographic spectrum are the hill
If you find yourself at a loose end one evening, you
could simply take a cycle tour of Chandni Chowk if you happen
to be in Delhi, gaze at the Victoria Memorial if you’re in Kolkata,
climb the rock-cut steps to the church atop of the St. Thomas
Mount in Chennai or stroll along Chowpati in Mumbai.
52
stations. India has a plethora of these. Many are welldocumented and much visited. Crowds are not for everyone. In the
south, Coorg, Munnar, the Yelagiri Hills and Horsley Hills are some
mountain getaways which are less frequented, while Kodaikanal
and Ooty are popular getaways. Tawang, Pelling and Chopta in the
north and Chikhaldara in Maharashtra are good choices for those
who want to hear the sound of music in the hills. Trekking, rock
climbing and caving are popular pastimes in the hills and mountains.
And many places in the north, such as Kufri in Himachal Pradesh
and Gulmarg in Jammu and Kashmir offer skiing and heli-skiing.
India’s long coastline makes it
a beachcomber’s paradise. The
Photo: Aurelie Marsan, France
beauty of the beaches of
Goa is well-known across the
seas, and the state’s colourful
Portuguese heritage adds to the
charm of soaking up the sun there.
For a less crowded experience, visit
Gokarna in Karnataka. And for
a truly soul-stirring time, travel
to Kanyakumari in the extreme
south, the meeting point of three
great oceans – the Pacific, the
Bay of Bengal and the Indian
Ocean. Climb the lighthouse at
Gopalpur-on-sea in Odisha for
a stunning view of the sunset.
Photo: Gemmarie Venkataramani, The Philippines
Visit Mattancherry, a Jewish settlement in Kerala, the Sirvan village of
Gujarat inhabited by people of the Siddhi tribe from Africa and the
Tibetan settlements in Dharamsala in Himachal Pradesh and Bylakuppe
in Karnataka for an out-of-country experience.
The country is also dotted with wildlife sanctuaries. The
Periyar, Ranthambore and Jim Corbett sanctuaries in Kerala,
Rajasthan and Uttarakhand, respectively, are created around
the tiger, and so is the Sundarbans National Park in West
Bengal. Bharatpur in Rajasthan, Ranganathittu in Karnataka
and Chilka Lake in Odisha are renowned bird sanctuaries.
The backwaters of Kerala are quiet and serene. They
provide a calming ambience, a chance to recharge for those enervated
by the rat race. To step up the pace, go for a coracle ride at Hampi in
Karnataka, surfing in Chennai or scuba diving in the Andaman and
Nicobar islands. Many places in India are known for their white water
rafting facilities. The rivers Subansiri and Siang in the north-east are
particularly famous; while down south, Dandeli is a hot spot.
Cinema
Cinema
Indian cinema, one of the
biggest film industries in the
world, producing around 1,000
feature films each year and
generating the globe’s largest
audience figures, turned 100
in 2013. Here’s an overview of
the chronological development
of the celluloid entertainment
industry, not only in worldfamous ‘Bollywood’ but also
in other centres across India.
Photo: Govinda
54
India’s first full-length motion picture
was released on May 3, 1913, by Dhundiraj Govind Phalke. It
told the tale of the righteous king Raja Harishchandra.
Alam Ara, in 1931, was the first talkie film that contained song as
well as dialogue, and became the prototype for Bollywood movies.
With song and dance set against a backdrop of mythical, romantic
or royal scenarios, cinema became the ultimate fantasy world that
Indians were more than happy to escape into. Down south, Bhakta
Prahlada and Kalidas, both released in the same year as Alam
Ara, were the first talkie films that made it to the theatres.
The post-Independence period is celebrated
as the golden age of Indian cinema. Mother India (1957) was to
define Hindi cinema for years to come. It is the story of a povertystricken village woman who struggles to raise her sons and survive
against an evil money lender amidst many other troubles. In
Bengal, Satyajit Ray’s Apu Trilogy (1955–1959) was a milestone
in India cinema and garnered huge international acclaim.
In the 1970s, the emphasis of Hindi cinema changed from
romance to action, starting with Zanjeer. The
‘star’ factor also became an important facet of the movie-going
experience. The next decade saw the emergence of parallel cinema,
and the 1990s saw the return of the commercial format.
India’s ancient philosophy continues to
guide it and many votaries around the
world. The precepts in the Bhagavad Gita,
part of the famous epic Mahabharata, help
negotiate life and the conflicts it throws up.
The Vedas and other ancient Indian texts
are fountains of hope for questing souls.
The 21st century has seen extensive interaction
between artistes from India and the Western world. In Ra.One,
for instance, the Senegalese-American RnB star Akon made his
Indian debut, singing in Hindi for ‘Chammak Challo’. And Indian
music maestro A.R. Rahman won the Oscar for best music and
background score for Danny Boyle’s Slumdog Millionaire.
Here’s a random selection of much-acclaimed, path-breaking and muchloved movies in no particular order, and without any limitations of
language. (This list is only a starter – there’s much, much more out there.)
India
owns
it
Awaara (1951, Hindi): Rita meets her childhood friend, Raj,
Chupke Chupke (1975, Hindi): A Wodehouseian
after many years, and they fall in love. However, Raj happens to be a petty
criminal. Of course, love triumphs against social divides in the end.
plot where a newly married man plays a prank on his wife's
unsuspecting family, by masquerading as her car driver and
asks a friend to assume his identity as the husband.
Parasakthi (1952, Tamil): After a sudden
reversal of fortune, Gunasekaran is arrested for attacking a
priest who tried to molest his sister. In a court of law, he mocks
religion and enumerates the ills that plague society.
Sholay (1975, Hindi): Thakur Baldev Singh, a former police
officer, hires two petty thieves, Jay and Veeru, to capture alive the dreaded
dacoit, Gabbar Singh, so he can exact revenge for the massacre of his family.
Mughal-e-Azam (1960, Hindi): When Mughal prince Salim 36 Chowringhee Lane (1981, English/Bengali):
(who was later named Jahangir) falls in love with Anarkali, a dancer at the
royal court, this creates a rift between him and his father, Emperor Akbar.
Aayirathil Oruvan (1965, Tamil): A
swashbuckling tale of adventure, the movie tells the story of
an enslaved medicine man who is then forced to become a
pirate to fight the cause of his oppressed slave brethren.
Chemmeen (1965, Malayalam): Set in the fishing
community of Kerala, this story is of a fisherwoman who
sacrifices her love and marries another. When she meets her
old lover again, a cataclysmic set of events unfold.
56
Violet, an elderly teacher in Kolkata, bids loneliness goodbye when a
former student and her boyfriend request the use of her house while
she’s in school. It’s only later that she realises their deception.
Moondram Pirai (1982, Tamil): Cheenu rescues a
young woman with regressive amnesia from a brothel and becomes
part-parent, part-friend to this child-woman. He struggles to keep
intact this near-perfect life, but the world begins to intrude.
My Dear Kuttichathan (1984, Malayalam):
India’s first 3D production, this is about a friendly little spirit,
Kuttichathan, who befriends three children. But the evil
sorcerer who owns Kuttichathan has other plans for him.
Lagaan (2001, Hindi): In pre-Independent India,
a motley group of villagers, under the leadership of a young
peasant, takes on the might of the British Empire in a
settlement against land taxes through a game of cricket!
Black (2005, Hindi): Inspired by the story of Helen Keller
and her teacher, Anne Sullivan, Michelle’s life is transformed when
she comes under the unconventional tutelage of Debraj Sahai.
JodhaA Akbar (2008, Hindi/Urdu): The movie
recasts the tale as a love story of Mughal emperor Akbar and his
Rajput wife, Jodhaa Bai, whose marriage starts out as a strategic
alliance but turns into a relationship between equals.
Eega (2012, Telugu): When a wealthy industrialist discovers
that the young girl he’s smitten by is already in love with a young
man, he has him murdered. The young man is reborn as an animated
housefly and sets about wreaking havoc in the industrialist's life.
Pushpak (1987, Silent Film): An unemployed youth assumes
Viswaroopam (2013, Tamil): Nirupama, a nuclear
the identity of a millionaire to get a taste of the good life. The movie
reinterprets the silent film genre using expression, body language, music
and symbolism in the absence of dialogue in this dark comedy.
oncologist, hires a detective to trail her effete Kathak-dancer
husband Viz, who seems to be harbouring some secrets. What
she finds turns out to be more complex than she imagined.
Nayagan (1987, Tamil): Based on the life of
Varadharaja Mudaliar in Mumbai, Nayagan tells the story
of Velu, an immigrant from Tamil Nadu, who eventually
becomes a godfather to the beleaguered masses.
Masaan (2015, Hindi): A movie about five lives that
intersect along the River Ganga in Varanasi. There are no villains in the
conventional sense nor characters that can be easily identified as ‘good’.
(Masaan is a colloquial term for burning ghats or crematoriums.)
Chitram (1988, Malayalam): Kalyani hires
Talvar (2015, Hindi) is based on a sensational real-life
Vishnu to act as her husband, projecting the picture of a happy
marriage to her visiting father. Although they bicker constantly,
Kalyani soon falls in love with Vishnu, who hides a tragic secret.
Hyderabad Blues (1998, English): A lowbudget realistic comedy about a young NRI who visits his
hometown, Hyderabad, on vacation, and resists relentless pressure
from his parents to get him ‘arrange-married’ in a hurry.
58
double murder case in Delhi which hogged media attention for a very
long time. It presents three conflicting accounts of the developments
on the fateful night when a teenage girl and the domestic help at
her home were killed. It leaves many questions unanswered.
On the First List
Indians and Indian ideas
have been pioneers in many
fields. These people and
concepts have not only
made a difference to life
in India but also impacted
the rest of the world.
Rakesh Sharma
Bengal Gazette was India’s first English
newspaper and also the first to be printed in the whole
subcontinent. Brought out by James Augustus Hicky,
it was a weekly which started on January 29, 1780. It
launched a vibrant culture of journalism in the country.
Today, the newspaper industry in India is thriving,
bucking global trends which favour digital media.
made history when he boarded
the Soyuz T-11 and was
blasted into space on April 2,
1984. He became the country’s
first astronaut, and was part
of the Indian Space Research
Organisation’s joint venture
with the Soviet Intercosmos
programme. Recently, India
became only one of four
countries in the world to
send a mission to Mars.
Cornelia Sorabji was the first Indian woman barrister,
Dadabhai Naoroji, a Parsi from Bombay, went to England
the first lady graduate from the Bombay University and the first
woman in the world to study Law at Oxford! This extraordinary
lady was also a social worker, and she often offered free legal services
to poor women and orphans. India now has a prestigious chain of
institutions providing sound training in law and legal practices,
collectively known as the National Law Universities. There are also
many other well-respected centres of legal learning in the country.
as a partner in the first Indian company to be established there. Although
he subsequently resigned, he stayed on and his home became a meeting
place for those connected with India. Such was his stature that he
was elected to the British Parliament from Finsbury Central in 1892
as a Liberal Party representative. Since then, many persons of Indian
origin have been distinguished members of the British Parliament.
60
Ernakulam district, located in Kerala, has the
distinction of being the first to become fully literate. A pilot project
began in the late 1980s, involving thousands of volunteer workers
and tutors who identified and trained those who didn’t know how
to read, write or do sums. Classes were held in cowsheds, on the
seashore and in tribe-dominated hills. On another front, the ‘Teach
for India’ initiative, powered by dedicated volunteers, is working
towards eliminating educational inequity in the country.
General Motors was the first company to set up an assembly
unit for cars in India. It began operations in 1928, using imported
automobile parts. The first cars to roll out from the plant at Sewree were
Chevrolet’s National Series AB Touring, and the features included wooden
wheels! India has since become a major automobile manufacturing hub.
Lage Raho Munna Bhai was the first full-length
Hindi feature film to be screened at the United Nations Auditorium.
The screening was held on November 10, 2006, as part of the
celebrations to mark the 100th anniversary of Mahatma Gandhi’s first
Satyagraha. The film, a modern-day take on the values propounded
by Gandhiji, was highly appreciated by the audience drawn from
varied backgrounds and also renewed interest in Gandhian ideals.
The first Indian to win the Nobel Prize was
Rabindranath Tagore.
His Gitanjali, literally meaning ‘An offering
of Songs’, was considered by the judges to be
‘profoundly sensitive, fresh and beautiful’,
and they awarded him the prize for literature
in 1913. Several more Indians and people of
Indian origin have gone on to be similarly
honoured in their respective fields of work.
Taxila or Takshashila
is within Pakistan today, but it was a
great and revered centre of learning in
ancient India. It is considered the first
university of the region and one of the
first in the world. Besides the Hindu
scriptures and arts such as archery and
hunting, medicine and law were also
taught. Famous students included
Chanakya (strategist and administrator
par excellence), Charaka (ayurvedic
doctor) and Panini (grammarian).
62
Photo: Yoojin Lee, South Korea
64
Tradition
Customs
of India
India is a vast medley of
cultures, traditions and customs,
influenced by geographic,
religious and ethnic diversity.
While these were rigidly marked
and observed in ancient
times, there’s more melding
now, as boundaries blur, and
migration happens across the
length and breadth of the land.
There’s also more intermingling
through marriage and even
long-term domicile. We take a
look at some of the common
rituals that are defining
moments of life’s journey.
Photo: Anna Bozzi, Italy
66
Photo: Michael Gundersen, USA
Photo: Anneke, The Netherlands
Photo: Silvia Ricanek, Germany
The birth of a baby brings with it a number of attendant customs.
These vary according to region, religion and ethnic group. Overall
though, under the Hindu system, a naming ceremony, the first
feed of solids, ear-piercing ceremony and initiation into education
are all significant milestones in a little one’s life. The rituals
observed with piety and reverence include worship of the divine,
the elements of nature and charity to fellow human beings.
68
Some temples have a dress code.
The famous Padmanabhaswamy
temple in Thiruvananthapuram,
Kerala, for instance, requires women
to be dressed in the traditional settu
mundu or saris, and men must be
bare-chested (a counter outside
the temple rents these items
and keeps your possessions safe
too). In many places, including
Gurudwaras, the Sikh houses of
worship, it is mandatory for the
head to be covered. The thumb rule
everywhere is decorum and respect
for the Gods. If you’re unfamiliar with
customs, it’s best to ask local people
before entering a place of worship.
Photo: Culturama archives
Eating etiquette in India may seem strange to those from
foreign shores. Indians are comfortable using their fingers to eat,
and they do it gracefully. The left hand is considered ‘unclean’ and
so the right hand is used to eat. At festivals and celebrations, food is
usually served on thalis or round platters in most parts of the country,
while banana leaves are used in South India. And there’s a protocol
to be followed – there’s an order to the items served, and each has its
own place and combinations. Yogurt in some form, refreshing and
digestive, is always a part of the menu. After finishing the meal, dessert
is mandatory, and a digestive betel leaf or nut may be offered too.
Photo: Cassia Reis, Brazil
Marriage is a rite of passage celebrated in India as the union of two families. The simplest form of Indian marriage is the ancient
gandharva wedding, which involved merely the exchange of garlands between bride and groom. The swayamvara system was also in
vogue among certain sections in times past – a girl was given the freedom to choose her groom from an array of suitors gathered to
seek her hand. In modern India, symbols and customs of Hindu wedding ceremonies have been adopted by other religions, chiefly
Christianity, such as the tying of the mangalsutra, a neck ornament, by the groom around the bride’s neck. This is a common custom
and a symbol of undying love and commitment. Keeping a sacred fire alight as witness in some form is considered a blessing.
70
Photo: Elmarte Blignaut, South Africa
The simple everyday routines of life also have
customs attached to them – each with its own significance.
For a start, every dwelling is considered holy. It is customary,
especially in South India, to remove your footwear before entering
a home. Places of worship all over the country require you to
enter barefoot. The scientific basis is, of course, hygiene.
a Eder, Italy
Photo : Elen
All over India, women draw
floor designs at dawn outside
their homes, both humble and
palatial. These are known as
kolam in the south and
rangoli in the north
of India. The designs are a
fine science. Rice flour,
standing for prosperity, is
the most common medium. It signifies peace and purity. The
yellow of the turmeric root, standing for prosperity, and vermillion, for
auspiciousness, are used as fillers traditionally. The motifs are many and
varied – flowers, fish, animals, birds and man himself, as also geometric
patterns, symbolising the oneness of the universe. Ants feed on the rice
flour, another gesture signifying man’s responsibility towards all creatures
great and small. Drawing dots, and then lines around the dots, is said to
signify circumventing the problems of life. The daily drawing, wearing
out and being wiped off the next day to be replaced by a fresh kolam or
rangoli also comes as a subtle reminder of the impermanence of life.
72
Photo: Cara Louwman-de Bruin, The Netherlands
Death comes as the end for all though many in India celebrate it,
believing in rebirth. Mourning and funeral rites differ with geographic
regions, social groups and religious communities. For instance, the
Rudaalis of Rajasthan are professional mourners, who are hired by some
families when a loved one dies. The name literally means ‘weeping woman’.
Attending funerals is encouraged as support in numbers is valued.
Gifting is a feel-good thing. Indians don’t go empty-handed even
when they make casual visits. If you’re invited to someone’s home for
a meal, it would be polite to take a small present along. But there are
some general dos and don’ts you need to be aware of to strike the right
note. Colours are significant; so to be on the safe side, avoid anything
that’s either black or white. Something neutral, such as flowers,
sweets or pastries from a specialty store, will always be welcome.
India
owns
it
Kanad, in the sixth century, theorised that all
matter is made up of minute particles which
cannot be further subdivided. The thoughts of
Aryabhata (476–550 CE) on the solar system, with
the sun at its centre, were far ahead of his times.
Brahmagupta’s Brahmasphutasiddhanta is the oldest
known book that mentions zero as a number.
Photo: Cassia Reis, Brazil
Photo: Marianne van Loo
Photo: Helle Stromholt, Denmark
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Photo: Manfred Zink, Germany
Benevolent,
Beautiful
and
Beloved
From being the tiller of land to the giver of food,
oxen and cows have been not just an important
part of India’s heritage but also a holy one.
Cows, called go, gau, pashu and dhenu in Sanskrit, have had a revered
place in this country from ancient times. In fact, the word ‘cow’ could
be a permutation of gau. The Vedas, the oldest literature of India,
repeatedly mention the cow. The verses of the Rig Veda, the oldest of
the four Vedas, reveal that society then was a pastoral one and, naturally,
cows and bullocks were prized possessions. They were an economic
asset, seen as a symbol of abundance and a medium for exchange.
Many homes, especially in semi-rural or rural areas, still keep
one or more cows for providing milk to the family.
Today, go-shalas or shelters for cows have been set up all over
India. These places protect cows that are ill, old and have
stopped yielding milk. There are many who contribute to such
go-shalas on birthdays, anniversaries or auspicious events.
Ayurveda, the ancient system of holistic healing native to the Indian
subcontinent, holds that food is medicine. According to ayurvedic texts,
regular intake of cow’s milk cures diseases, improves sleep and adds to
overall good health. The heaviness of milk can be balanced by the addition
of spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and black pepper. In keeping
with this wisdom, milk-based ayurvedic soups are spiced with cloves and
pepper, while milk puddings are balanced with cloves and cardamom.
Cow dung has been hailed for its anti-bacterial properties; and in
traditional households across India, it is still used as a natural disinfectant
as well as a fertiliser. Dried pats of cowdung are used as fuel in many
rural homes, too. Gobar gas is produced to fuel kitchens as well.
In Hindu mythology, the Kamadhenu is a cow which embodies plenty. It
is also an Indian interpretation of life’s ecosystem that consists of creation,
sustenance and change. Various Hindu deities are believed to reside in
every part of the Kamadhenu. The horns are said to house the divine
trinity of Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva; the udder is hailed as an ocean of
nectar and the eyes pertain to the sun and the moon. The four legs of the
Kamadhenu embody the four Vedas and are considered to be as strong
and enduring as the Himalayas. Agni, the God of Fire, and Vayu, the God
of Wind, reside in the shoulders. Kamadhenu is regarded as the source
of prosperity and also as a symbol of the all-enduring Mother Earth.
It is common in India to see cows inside the premises of temples.
They are raised so that their milk can be used for worship of the
deities enshrined inside. Go daan, or gifting a cow, is a part of the
rituals at some traditional Hindu weddings and ceremonies.
India’s
Contributions
From ages past, people have
been coming to India – some
in peace, to trade, and others
to conquer. Whatever their
intentions, they left their
indelible imprints on the people
of the subcontinent, and, in turn,
the subcontinent changed their
lives forever. In modern times,
India and Indians have become
forces to reckon with globally.
Here are some of the things that
the world now looks to India for.
76
Satyagraha (a portmanteau word comprising
satya or truth and agraha or insistence upon) was
was one of the pillars of the Freedom Struggle
spearheaded by Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi.
The non-violent, non-cooperation movement
inspired Martin Luther King Jr in the United
States, and later, Nelson Mandela, in South Africa.
India
owns
it
In the international political
arena, India has made significant
contribution. It was one of the
founder members of the NonAligned Movement
which developed in the aftermath
of World War II and the collapse
of the colonial system. Since
then, the NAM nations have
played a fundamental role in
maintaining world peace.
Photo: Edson Silva, Brazil
India has contributed many words to the English dictionary. ‘Catamaran’ from the Tamil kattumaram,
‘jungle’ from the Hindi jungal, and ‘avatar’ from the Sanskrit avatar are among them.
Spices, textiles, gold, gems and jewellery
were things that brought the world calling in ancient
times. In the 17th and 18th centuries, the British,
French, Dutch and Portuguese established trading
posts in the country. Both India and the world have
benefited by trade ties, as not only commodities
but also knowledge and ideas were exchanged.
Photo: Tammy Sandhu, UK
78
Once known as the land of
maharajas and emperors,
India still has a sizeable number
of HNI or high net-worth
individuals. A Knight Frank report
says the wealth creation in India
is likely to go up significantly
and the number of ultra-wealthy
individuals is expected to double to
around 3,371 by the year 2024.
Indian diaspora is the maximum in the world and has contributed
significantly to the development of African countries, Malaysia and the
West Indies, among others. In more recent times, Indians working in
science, technology, health, industry and even government have added
value to the United States, the United Kingdom and countries of the
Middle East. Many have reached top positions in their respective fields.
Business acumen is the flip
side of India’s spirituality. Lakshmi
Mittal and N R Narayana Murthy
are among those renowned for
having built up successful business
empires at home and away, while
names like Birla, Tata and Ambani
are respected all over the world.
Indigenous business models have won
acclaim, too, like the Dabbawallahs of
Mumbai. Indra Nooyi, Chairperson
and CEO of PepsiCo, and Satya
Nadella, CEO of Microsoft, are two
Indian-born Americans who have
done their native country proud.
Photo: Ayan Khasnabis, Creative Commons
Fabrics
of India
Cotton has long been among
India’s prized products.
Alexander the Great admired it,
Roman emperors paid fabulous
sums for it and the British took
cotton home in bulk. Various
regions produce special types
of cloth. Read on to discover
India’s textile storehouse.
80
Khadi is a fabric into which
much sentiment is woven in
India. Inextricably linked with the
freedom movement, and firmly
associated with patriotism, it can
be described as the national textile
of India. Hand-spun, hand-woven
and hand-printed, it has now
become a fashionable fabric. It
comes in varied hues. Khadi silk
is also available. The national
flag is made of khadi cloth.
Tie-and-dye fabrics are extremely popular,
both in India and abroad. They are made
using the resistance dyeing technique. There
are many varieties. The bandhini of Rajasthan
in the west and the chungidi of Madurai in
the south are among the most popular.
Photo: Creative Commons
82
Furnishings from India are much in demand in the
global market. Carpets, rugs, tapestries and dhurries are on
export lists and tourist shopping lists. Haryana and Madhya
Pradesh are known for dhurries. Carpet weaving, introduced
by the Mughals, is done in various places, including Andhra
Pradesh. And the warm gudma blankets from Himachal
Pradesh are just the thing for chilly winter nights.
Zari gives the finishing touch
of richness to Indian textiles.
Originally made of real gold or
silver, now an imitation variety
involving electroplated copper
is more common and easier
on the purse too. Zari adorns
a variety of textiles across the
length and breadth of India, from
the brocades of Varanasi to the
Kancheevarams of Tamil Nadu,
from the gossamer Jamdhani
to the Paithani of Maharashtra.
Pure zari has snob value;
however, good imitations are
making it affordable these days.
84
Photo: Christophe Thibout, France
Silks are synonymous with South India. The jewel brightness of
Kancheevarams from Tamil Nadu, the smoothness of the Mysore
variety, the richness of the Dharmavarams from Andhra Pradesh and
Telangana, each has its USP. They come in varying thickness and shades,
with or without embellishments in gold thread. Banarasi silks from the
ancient city of Varanasi are a must-have in an Indian bride’s trousseau.
North-eastern India
produces distinctive textiles.
The native tribes of this region
bring their unique cultures
to bear on the cloth their
women weave. The colours are
predominantly white, black,
red and blue, and traditional
patterns now incorporate
modern motifs like the airplane.
Pashmina shawls from Kashmir,
lightweight, warm as toast and classically
beautiful, add a special touch to a winter
wardrobe. Made from yarn spun from the
underbelly fur of the Pashmina goat, the
pure variety is expensive. For a lower budget,
you get a mix of rabbit fur or wool.
PhotoS: India Tourism Chennai
Ikkat comes from many places – Andhra
Pradesh, Gujarat and Orissa to name a few. This
type of textile refers to both dyeing and weaving.
It’s done in both silk and cotton yarn, and the
variety woven in Gujarat is known as Patola.
86
Photo: Johnny Baird, UK
Beating the
Summer Heat
88
Cotton, preferably Khadi or
homespun, is the textile
to go for during the summer
months. Style-wise, opt for
loose and flowing. The salwar
kameez is most practical for
women, and the dupatta or
shawl that goes with it comes
in handy as a face wrap to block
the burning heat. For men, the
kurta pyjama of the north and
the adjustable dhoti of the south
are the best summer wear.
Photo: Elaine Wood, South Africa
Well-cooked rice mixed
with yogurt and your
choice of finely diced
cucumber, carrots, ginger and
pomegranate seeds, tempered
with curry leaves, mustard
and red chillies and garnished
with chopped coriander
leaves makes a heavenly
summer lunch. Curd rice
is standard fare in the south,
especially Tamil Nadu.
Earthenware vessels are a
special blessing in summer. What truly
refreshes you on a hot day is a cool drink,
not a cold one, and that’s where the pot
scores over the ‘fridge’. Earthenware is
porous and optimally cools water. It
is inexpensive and eco-friendly too.
Photo: Catherine Harte
Tender coconut water is the coolest one! Perfectly
safe, and beautifully balanced with essential salts and
minerals, it’s nature’s best OR (oral rehydration) drink.
Accessorising
India
Trendy or traditional, ethnic or
modern, textiles or trimmings,
apparels or ornaments, India
is a treasure trove for anyone
with the slightest interest in
clothes and fashion. Here’s a
sampling of what the country’s
‘dressing-up box’ has to offer.
Photo: Pia Berglund
90
Photo: Richard Buttrey, UK
Anklets: In their simplest form,
they’re chains women wear around the
ankles. They range from delicate to
chunky, and often have tiny, tinkling
bells. Traditionally made of silver or
baser metals, gold anklets are also
available. Even newborn babies are
adorned with anklets as they help
the pressure points of the body.
Photo: Carlo Sem, Italy
Photo: Helle Stromholt, Denmark
Potlis or drawstring bags:
They come in a variety of designs – beaded,
embroidered, with mirror work, in jute,
leather, cloth or synthetic materials; each
region of India has its own special
ethnic variety. They add an extra touch
of elegance to all types of outfits.
Mehndi: It’s a paste made of
henna leaves, used to make auspicious
temporary ‘body tattoos’in a beautiful,
rich red, at weddings and other
functions. Intricate, floral, geometric or
paisley designs are drawn on the palms,
often extending to the back of the hand
and stretching up the arms and on the
feet. According to popular belief, the
more the partner loves her, the darker
the hue of red will be when a girl applies
henna paste on her palms and feet.
Photo: Pia Berglund
Earrings: These are the most common accessories of the Indian
woman. Piercing the ears is a rite of passage and has its origin in
acupuncture, contributing to the wellness of a young baby. In olden
days, both men and women had their ears pierced. Tribal women
of India wear such large earrings that their ear lobes are distended
by the weight. Earrings can be of solid gold, sparkling diamonds or
even simple terracotta, shell, bead and thread ornaments; there’s
something to suit every taste and budget. An extension for women
is the nose pin or ring worn in a range of traditional styles.
Photo: Painting by Raja Ravi Varma
92
Photo: Anthony Paul Marshall, UK
Bindi: The red dot that most Indian women wear on their foreheads
was traditionally an auspicious mark made with vermillion powder. It is
placed between the eyebrows, at the place where the spiritual third eye of
knowledge is said to be located. Essentially, it stands as a reminder of the
true goal of life – to look inwards at the real essence within, while the other
two eyes look at the world outside. Traditionally, they were sported by
men and women; but in modern urban India, more women wear it. Special
designs or colours signify certain communities, but these variations are less
important than the essence. Nowadays, bindis are available as disposable
stickers. They come in fancy shapes and colours and may even be encrusted
with stones. Forehead marks can also be applied with sandal paste (may
life smell sweet) or sacred ash (signifying ‘ashes to ashes, dust to dust’).
Flower power: India accessorises with flowers more than
most Western cultures; even the not so privileged use sweet-smelling
flowers as natural fragrances in their hair. This simple, inexpensive
touch of glamour to the plainest of outfits is very popular with girls
in traditional India. A garland of jasmine threaded into a plait or
a rose tucked into an up-do or buttonhole lifts the spirits and the
senses. Brides in India always use fresh flowers as hair accessories.
Hair ornaments: Flowing gilded tresses are considered
a sign of beauty in Indian culture and hair jewellery can include
elaborate stone-studded grips and slides and gilded tassels. For an
exotic look, women wear a maangtikka – a chain with a pendent
at one end and a hook at the other – which can be hung along
the hair-parting, with the pendent resting just below the hairline.
Men wear turban ornaments for a regal look at weddings, too.
94
96
The awesome beauty of its rich
yellow and black striped coat,
the grace of its movements, the
power in its muscles and the regal
look in its eyes puts the royal
Bengal tiger in a class by
itself. It is India’s national animal
(and also that of neighbouring
Bangladesh). On the IUCN’s
Endangered List, the Government
of India’s Project Tiger seeks to
ensure a viable population of
this majestic beast in the wild.
Nature
The Wildlife
of India
Indian wildlife has always been
the stuff of lore. The age-old
Jataka and Panchatantra Tales
use animal characters to teach
life lessons. Jungle Book, Rudyard
Kipling’s immortal story of
little Mowgli and his friends
Balu the bear, Bagheera the
black panther and Hathi the
elephant, not to mention the
diabolical tiger Sher Khan and
sinister Ka, the python, brought
the Indian forest alive for
children and adults all over the
world. Read on for thumbnail
sketches of other animals and
birds that call India home.
Photo: Culturama archives
98
Photo: Andres Alphonso, Australia
The magnificent Indian lion, also known
as the Asiatic or Persian lion, once strode
majestically through Asia Minor, Arabia, Persia
and northern India. Now, the Gir Forest in
Gujarat is the last remaining natural habitat of
this big cat – one of the seven sub-species of lions
in the world. Conservation programmes have
succeeded in snatching it back from the brink of
extinction. Numbering just about a dozen at the
end of the 19th century, the 14th Asiatic Lion
Census in May 2015 showed that the population
had gone up to around 523. This regal animal
is immortalised in India’s national emblem, an
adaptation of a sculpture dating back to 250
BC, the reign of Emperor Ashoka, prominently
depicting four lions standing back to back.
ipedia
Photo : Wik
100
The grey langur
is one of two types of
langur monkeys in India.
The other is the golden
variety. The grey langur is
considered sacred because
of its association with
Hanuman, the monkey god
who was an ardent devotee
of Lord Ram. Legend
goes that the langurs came
to the help of Hanuman
when he was trapped in a
fire and, in the process, got
burnt, accounting for their
black faces and hands.
Photo: Jennifer, USA
One of the deadliest and most feared of snakes, the Indian
cobra has a distinctive hood, which it raises on perceiving
a threat. The spectacle pattern on the hood is the reason why
it is also called the spectacled cobra. The monocled cobra and
the king cobra are other species found in India. A favourite with
snake charmers, it is now on the protected species list. The king
cobra was recently placed on the IUCN Red (Threatened) List.
The cobra is associated with the Hindu pantheon, particularly
Lord Shiva, and is also worshipped on its own as a deity.
The Nilgiri tahr,
Tamil Nadu’s state animal, is a
stocky, goat-like creature that
lives in the Nilgiri Hills and
the Western Ghats. Another
endangered species, it is
sometimes referred to as the
Nilgiri ibex. The Eravikulam
Wildlife Sanctuary offers
it some protection.
The gaur or the Indian bison is the largest species of
wild cattle. Only the tiger and crocodile have been known
to hunt this huge beast down. When faced with a tiger,
a gaur herd goes into phalanx formation and advances
menacingly towards the enemy, which often retreats!
In peninsular India, see if you can spot the Indian giant
squirrel. This dark brown, tan and beige beauty is timid and shy.
An adult giant squirrel’s tail can be up to two feet long. These squirrels
build globe-like nests high up on trees. Not content with just one
home, they usually have separate living quarters for their young ones!
The olive green mugger crocodiles inhabit India’s
lakes, rivers and marshes. It’s the most common of all the
crocodile varieties in India. These crocodiles can move
amazingly fast on land as well as in water, so… ‘Never smile at
a crocodile, Never dip your hat and stop to talk awhile!’
A native of the Himalayan ranges, the red panda, slightly bigger
than a cat, is nocturnal. It has red and white markings and a long,
bushy, ringed tail. Red pandas are shy, solitary creatures that prefer
to spend their time in the trees. They’re an endangered species.
The majestic one-horned rhino could once call
the entire Indo-Gangetic Plain its homeland. Sadly, due to
relentless hunting and encroachment of its natural habitat, it is
now confined to small pockets of the north-eastern states. The
Kaziranga National Park in Assam now affords it safe haven.
Elephants are much loved and revered in India.
They are the living embodiments of the beloved
elephant-headed God Ganesh, the remover of all
obstacles. When an elephant blesses a person, Indians
believe that Lord Ganesh himself blesses them.
102
Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and the surrounding
states bordering China and Burma.
The Asian elephant family consists of three species including
the Indian elephant, the most widely dispersed throughout
mainland South Asia and now listed as an endangered species.
They are wonderfully docile creatures and don’t really have
any natural enemies other than human encroachment and
poaching. Being vegetarians, with males weighing up to
five tonnes, they work their way through a considerable
amount of vegetation – they need to consume 8 percent
of their body weight every day as vegetable fodder.
The largest population of wild elephants in India
now is concentrated in the north-eastern states of
Elephants have been dearly loved in India through
the ages, and no major temple festival or activity can
On the Elephant Trail
really be complete without their full and colourful
participation. They are given the honour of carrying
the bronze figurines of Gods on processions. Decked
with anklets, chains and glittering ornaments, elephants
provide a touch of majestic grandeur to the ceremonies.
Even though temple elephants are revered and treated
well overall, they too need a break. Recognising this,
the Tamil Nadu Government organises a ‘holiday camp’
each year for them at the Mudumalai Tiger Reserve,
where they are given medical treatment and luxury diets
for 48 days and are allowed to wander about in their
native habitat, protected, of course, from the tigers.
The ivory from the tusks of elephants is very valuable, of
course; and on a lesser scale, so are the hairs on its tail. They
are woven into rings and bracelets and are believed to protect
the wearer. And, believe it or not, elephant poop has its
uses too! A variety of gift items are available, made of paper
produced from recycled elephant poop. A young expat,
Jonathan Titus, has even recorded this extraordinary process
in a book, The Recycle of Life: From Elephant Poop to Paper.
Photo: Ian Watkinson, UK
Monsoons
in India
India’s economy is mainly
agrarian and depends heavily
on the monsoons for its health.
A bad season has a cascading
effect on crops, power,
industry, stock market and
GDP. A good one gives an ‘all
is well’ feeling. Much column
inch space in newspapers
and bandwidth on television
is given over to predicting its
strength and course. As the
dark clouds gather on the
horizon, the country moves
smoothly into monsoon mode
and adopts ways of life and
jargon suited for the season.
Photo: Rinske Bloemendal, The Netherlands
104
Photo: Ian Watkinson, UK
The word ‘monsoon’ comes from the Arabic mawsin or season. Sailors plying ancient sea trade routes to India
calculated the best times to take advantage of the seasonal winds while avoiding storms and gales.
Photo: Rajarshi Mitra, Creative Commons
Cyclones are an accepted and expected part of the monsoon experience, too. Low-pressure troughs form in the Indian
Ocean, Arabian Sea or the Bay of Bengal and sometimes turn nasty. Rural areas usually bear the brunt of the furious winds,
while cities are more or less safe. But live wires pose a threat, so power is often shut down during cyclones.
The monsoon blows in its own brand of food. Favourite
comfort foods are piping hot kitchdi, a one-dish
meal of rice, lentils and vegetables, and the ever-popular
chai-pakora (tea and fritters). Drink masala chai –
tea pepped up with spices – to keep the chills away.
Indian health systems prescribe plenty of turmeric,
ginger, garlic and fenugreek to boost immunity.
Photo: Jean Michel Tammam
106
The south-west monsoon makes landfall in Kerala, the southern-most state of India. Traditionally, it sets
in on June 1, give or take a day or two. A normal monsoon is usually amazingly punctual.
Photo: Mageswari Rubaganathan, Malaysia
The pied crested cuckoo is a long-tailed, black and
white bird that is to the monsoon in India what the swallow is to the
summer in England. Called chatak in Hindi, it is a migratory bird
and suddenly appears in late May and early June. Migrant Watch is a
citizen’s initiative to document its arrival and link it to the monsoon.
There are two monsoon seasons in India. The
south-west monsoon starts in June and goes on till around
August in most of India, while the reverse north-east one
brings rain in October-November to the eastern coast.
Photo: Painting by Sri
S. Rajam. Picture courtesy
‘Art Heritage of India: A
Collector’s Special’, published
by L&T-ECC & ECC
Recreation Club.
Special prayers are held to propitiate Varun, the God of Rain
in the Hindu pantheon, and ensure normal rains, so that the harvest
will be plentiful, and there’s no water shortage in the coming months.
Hareli is a monsoon-centric festival celebrated in the state
of Chhattisgarh. The farming community prays for good
crops and worships farming equipment and cattle.
Rain is a given. What is in doubt is the quantity. Too much brings
floods and destruction, too little means a drought year. Like Goldilocks’
porridge, it has to be just right. (Authorities in many cities are serious
about rain water harvesting, and it’s paying off.) Mawsynram and
Cherrapunji, both in the north-eastern state of Meghalaya, have gone down
in books of records as having registered the highest measured rainfall.
Photo: Jocelyn Wright, New Zealand
El Nino is much talked about. It’s a band of warm water that
develops off the South American coast and has a bearing on how
the monsoon behaves in far-away India. Researchers find that the
further west the band lies in the Pacific Ocean, the less monsoon
rains India gets. When it lies to the east, rainfall is copious.
108
For Children,
Of Children
Photo: Wikipedia
Growing up in India in times past meant
a diet of tales that were essentially Indian.
They followed the universal formula of
didactic stories or stories with happy
endings, and were full of animals, princes
and princesses, magic and humour.
Modern Indian tales too keep little ones
(and some adults as well!) entertained.
Here’s a selection of well-loved kids’ fare.
The Children’s Book Trust was the pioneer publishers
of children’s books in India. CBT’s portfolio includes fiction,
history, biographies, science fiction, travelogues, humour and drama,
besides picture books and read-aloud books. (The CBT building
in New Delhi also houses an international dolls museum, billed as
the world’s largest collection of dolls.) Now, other publishers such
as Tulika, Tara Books, New Horizon Media, Navneet Publications
and Dreamland Publications too focus on children’s literature.
110
The Panchatantra
Tales and Jataka Tales
are to Indian children what
the stories of Hans Andersen
and the brothers Grimm
are to Western kids. These
appealing stories, often
featuring talking animals,
teach values and morals in
a typically pithy style.
Life with Grandfather is a
good example of children’s
stories in English set in an
indigenous background.
Written and illustrated by wellknown political cartoonist,
the late K Shankar
Pillai, it takes the reader
into rural Kerala where Raja,
a young orphan, grows up
in a traditional home.
Mischievous, yet engagingly
innocent Swami, the creation of
acclaimed Indian writer in English,
R.K. Narayan, touches a chord
with a generation which grew up in
an India in transition. The exploits
of Swami and his friends, set in
the fictional town of Malgudi in
pre-Independence days, has been
turned into a popular TV serial, too.
Ruskin Bond, born in India to
British parents, is one of the pillars of
children’s literature in English here.
His semi-autobiographical novel
The Room on the Roof and the
subsequent adventures of its hero
Rusty make great reading.
Tales of the legendary wit of
Birbal, one of the nine gems
of Emperor Akbar’s court,
continue to entertain children
across the country. Birbal’s
counterpart in southern India
is Tenali Rama, court
poet to the Vijayanagar rulers.
Another witty ‘hero’ is the
Mulla Nazaruddin who
features in a series of amusing
stories. Adults will find these
whimsical tales enjoyable, too.
Detective stories, India style, were also popular with young
ones. Indian writers have dreamt up some memorable characters
– for instance, Feluda, a creation of the multi-talented Satyajit
Ray, Kakababu, hero of over 35 adventure stories, and the Foxy
Four, a team of teenaged girl detectives. As a comic slant, Inspector
Moochwala of the now defunct Target Magazine can’t be bettered.
Amar Chitra Katha comics were the brainchild of Ananth
Pai, better known as Uncle Pai. They popularise Indian tales – from
mythology, history and legend – among a generation nurtured on
Western education. Many are collectors’ items, not least because of
exquisite illustrations. They’re now available in digital format too.
Karadi Tales is a publishing house that focuses mainly on
audio books of Indian stories for children. It utilises the considerable
talent of famous film and theatre artistes as ‘voices’. It also brings out
picture books, including tactile ones for visually impaired kids.
Green
India
Environmental concerns are big
on India’s mind. Global warming,
climate change, smog, pollution,
these are all modern-day ills.
Things weren’t always so in
India. Our age-old philosophy
stresses the goal of ultimate
union of creation with Creator.
The colour green on our national
flag denotes prosperity. Here’s
a list of things we did, still do
and can continue doing to
make this beautiful country of
ours green and prosperous.
Photo: Pellegrinelli Christophe
112
Photo: Bernadette Baars, The Netherlands
Photo: Wikipedia
Villages are at the heart of India’s green band. Mawlynnong,
in Meghalaya in the north-east, has the distinction of being
named the cleanest village in Asia. Its 80-odd families are Green
Ambassadors, volunteering to keep their surroundings green
with plants and squeaky clean. The Central Government’s
‘Swachh Bharat’ or ‘Clean India’ initiative has added an edge to
the cleanliness drive. It is the focus of many CSR or Corporate
Social Responsibility drives by multinational companies.
a archives
Photo: Culturam
114
Tulsi or the Indian basil
is a plant sacred to Hindus,
and for very good reason. It
gives out oxygen throughout,
unlike other plant species.
Traditional Hindu homes have
a tulsi growing in a special
planter in the courtyard.
Women circumambulate
this plant as part of their
early morning rituals to get a
lungful of sustaining oxygen.
Photo: Meredith Chipperton, Australia
Brooms used every day all over India, from villages to concrete
jungles, are made from the ribs of coconut palm fronds. There are
also varieties made from different types of grass fronds. There are
different ones for different purposes. The ones made with palm leaf
ribs are good to sweep outdoors, while the softer grass ones pick
up household dust. Both types are efficient and biodegradable!
Leaf plates and
receptacles are used
throughout India to serve
up a variety of cuisine from
street food to wedding feasts.
They could be as rough
and ready as a section of
banana leaf to ingeniously
twisted cones held in
place with slender palm
fronds. Some are freshly
cut or fashioned, others
processed to store. Either
way, use and throw. They’ll
just meld with the earth.
Photo: Jean-Denis Lenoir, France
Photo: Alex Gaylon, Creative Commons
Incense sticks or agarbathis, also known as joss sticks, are
India’s answer to aerosol room fresheners – sweet smelling, they
do no harm to the ozone layer. Associated with temples and ‘puja
rooms’, their fragrance conjures up the peace that prayer brings.
They come in a variety of scents, from rose to sandalwood. Today,
they’re used also in aromatherapy. The perfumes are derived from
nature; and it’s a cottage industry, involving mainly women.
Earthenware
pots are ubiquitous
in India. Their porous
quality provides
excellent cooling
without harming the
throat and lungs or
releasing harmful
CFC gases. A handful
of specially chosen
herbs added to the
water affords an extra
layer of protection
on hot summer days.
In keeping with
the times, earthen
pots now come
with convenient
metal taps.
Photo: Martijn Kleverlaan,
The Netherlands
Photo: Darren Burnham, UK
The Road Rules
Photo: Darren Burnham, UK
116
Roads are nothing new to India.
They were around as far back as the
Indus Valley Civilisation. The ancient
settlements of Mohenjo-daro and
Harappa had formally laid out roads,
not just tracks beaten by constant
use. Down the ages, more roads
were built, as emperors and kings
found it necessary to move troops
and supplies. The most important
highway in olden day India was the
Grand Trunk Road, built by Emperor
Sher Shah Suri. Today, the country
has the second longest road network
in the world (after only the United
States), at over 4.8 million kilometres.
These include national and state
highways and district and rural roads.
The national highways run through the length
and breadth of the nation, connecting important
cities, towns and logistic facilities such as ports.
State highways link up to the national highways,
and the district and rural roads are a tier lower.
The national highways are identified simply by the acronym
NH followed by a number. Roads within each state, city
and village, of course, have their own names. These usually
highlight some speciality – such as the Gali Paranthe
Wali in Delhi – full of shops which sell Indian breads,
as the Hindi name indicates – or honour someone who
has contributed to the city, state or nation. This rationale
has resulted in a multitude of MG Roads throughout
the country. The alphabets stand for Mahatma Gandhi.
Every metro, major city and town has
one. Chennai, in Tamil Nadu, stands
out from the crowd though. It does
have a main thoroughfare named after
the Father of the Nation, but the suffix
‘Mahatma’ or ‘great soul’ is translated
into Tamil. So it is known as Uttamar
Gandhi Salai (‘road’ in Tamil).
Perhaps the most iconic road in India is the Rajpath – literally
King’s Way, the long, straight road leading from the Rashtrapati
Bhavan, official residence of the President of India, to India
Gate, a war memorial (not to be confused with the Gateway
of India in Mumbai, built to commemorate the visit of
England’s King George V and Queen Mary). The famous
Republic Day Parade passes down Rajpath each year.
Photo: Sebastien Rigault, Creative Commons
Some other road names are duplicated in various parts of
the country, too – the Marine Drive in Mumbai is famous;
the one in Kochi, Kerala, is less well known, but has its
own quiet beauty. There’s one in Lucknow as well.
Brigade Road in Bengaluru, Colaba Causeway in Mumbai,
Park Street (now named Mother Teresa Sarani) in Kolkata,
Anna Salai (earlier Mount Road) in Chennai, CG Road in
Ahmedabad, Abids Street in Hyderabad and Boulevard Road
in Srinagar are a few of the most happening places in India.
As India’s economy grows, so does the traffic on its roads,
long and short, narrow and wide, rough and smooth.
Photo: Abhishek Kumar, Creative Commons
Mall Road is a name common to thoroughfares in many cities –
Nainital, Mussoorie, Shimla, Manali and Amritsar, for instance.
Celebrating oneness through music
Aikya is an annual fundraising concert that opens every year to packed houses in Chennai and was launched in 2010 to showcase
the unifying elements of Indian culture via music. Aikya strengthens Global Adjustments’ mission of building bridges across cultures, to
positively impact the community.
Aikya 2010
Aikya 2011
Aikya 2012
Aikya 2013
Aikya 2014
Aikya 2015
Aikya supports:
• Smrutha Dhvani – an initiative to care for retiring accompanying artistes in the fields of music, dance and performing arts, to support
them for their lifetime.
• Supporting urban underprivileged women through technical education and empowering rural self-help groups.
www.aikyaindia.com
118
Make It
In India
We will help you and your company to get the best out of India
- start your journey with us today
Contact us to discover our services: [email protected]
Relocation | Realty | Cross-cultural Training | Cultural Publishing | Not-for-profit programmes
Stay in touch:
Delhi / Gurgaon / Noida | Mumbai | Bangalore | Chennai | Pune | Hyderabad | Vizag | Ahmedabad | Vadodara | Coimbatore
Coming Soon
“How do I form a strong rapport with my Indian colleagues?”
“I am planning my summer vacation – what
are some places I can visit in India?”
“What is ‘curry’? What I got in India was so different
from the one I was served in London!”
Get up-to-date, well-curated knowledge about India at your
fingertips – all you have to do is stay tuned to Culturama.in!
Culturama.in – a website that will give you information about all
things India and Indian – is the upcoming digital product from
Global Adjustments. The website will be launched in 2016.
Relocation | Realty | Cross-cultural Training | Cultural Publishing
Not-for-profit programmes
Delhi / Gurgaon / Noida | Mumbai | Bangalore | Chennai | Pune | Hyderabad
Vizag | Ahmedabad | Vadodara | Coimbatore
120
Gautam
Patole
The cover of this book was created by renowned artist
Gautam Patole, who has created covers for coffee table
books and Culturama magazine. Formerly a photojournalist who worked for several magazines in India and
abroad, Gautam Patole is today one of India’s leading
artists who paints in various mediums such as oil on
canvas, acrylic and ceramic. He is especially known
for his life-like charcoal pieces on various subjects.
In a move to support upcoming artists, Gautam and art
collector Bharat Patel formed ArtDesh – The Studio
(www.artdesh.com) in 2008. Since its inception, the gallery
has promoted numerous artists and guided them towards
building sustainable careers. It has since developed into a
community for artists and art lovers to gather and share their
knowledge and experience, and to further the reach of art
to the widest possible audience. ArtDesh has also curated
numerous exhibitions, festivals, workshops and art events.
Acknowledgements
This book was printed in the year Global Adjustments completed 21 years, and first
released as a souvenir at Aikya 2016.
Even after working on several coffee table books centred on India and Indians, we are
back at ground zero when we plan for a new book. No two books are ever alike – it is always
a new journey, a steeper learning curve and an unmatched sense of pride when we see the
product in print.
Thus, it is with a heart filled with gratitude and pride that I write this note to thank the
people who helped make this book come to life.
The cover for this book was lovingly created by gifted artist Gautam Patole, whose brush
strokes bring to life the beauty of our nation.
Our images are drawn from varied sources – primarily from the entries sent to
the annual Beautiful India Expatriate Photo Competition*, and others from the Incredible India
archives – made available to us by India Tourism, Chennai. A special thanks to Shobana Sairaj
Kumar, who helped us get permission from India Tourism, Chennai, to use those photos.
Members of Team Culturama held the book close to their hearts as they worked on it.
Susan Philip, our long-time writer, who has worked with me on several books, put together
this compendium of facts in an extremely short time. Her commitment to doing an excellent
job is only matched by her flair for language and engaging way of writing. Sethulakshmy
Nayar, our proofreader, went through every word (literally), to weed out even the tiniest of
errors. Prem Kumar and Yamini Vasudevan sourced photographs, designed the pages and
lavished attention and care on the book at every stages.
However, the hardest working team was our sales team – Anupama Arvind, Vyjayanthi
Rajiv, Archana Iyengar and Nayaab Musvee. If not for their time, efforts and positive vibes, we
would not be holding this beautiful book in our hands. We must, of course, add a special note
of thanks to our sponsors for their generous contributions.
Srikals Printers, our print partners, helped to bring out a book that has raised the (already
high) bar in terms of quality and finesse – my deepest thanks goes out to them.
Ranjini Manian
Editor-in-Chief, Culturama
Founder & CEO, Global Adjustments
*Many of these photos were drawn from the archives of our annual expatriate photo competition. While we have tried to attribute
all photos in the best manner possible, we apologise in advance for any errors that may have been inadvertently caused.
122
For the empowerment of young
women and retiring artistes.
www.aikyaindia.com
124

Big Things Big Things

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