Chamaecyparis obtusa
Transcription
Chamaecyparis obtusa
Volume 2, Issue 21 June 30, 2011 Chamaecyparis obtusa Chamaecyparis obtusa, otherwise known as Hinoki Falsecypress, is native to Japan, where it is an important timber tree and is considered sacred in the Shinto faith. A large, broad, and conical tree, it can reach 125 ft. in the wild and 50 to 75 ft. in cultivation. The foliage is a rich, dark green with bluntly rounded leaves (hence obtusa). The bark of this tree at maturity is a bright red-brown, which peels in long, thin strips. There are many, many cultivars of this species, many of them challenging to differentiate from one another. Here at Lockerly, we have records of 31 cultivars of this species that were planted in our conifer collection over the years, but only 6 of these are known to have survived. ‘Nana Gracilis’ is one of the best in our collection. This cultivar has glossy dark green foliage and a conical habit, reaching 3 ft. at maturity. It is a universally admired cultivar that has been cultivated in gardens for over 100 years. We also have ‘Crippsii’, a slow-growing, wide-spreading cultivar with golden yellow, ferny foliage. It has great winter color and is a choice accent plant. Our ‘Crippsii’ may very well be the largest specimen of this cultivar in the state. Our other surviving C. obtusa cultivars are: Table of Contents Chamaecyparis obtusa pg. 1 Summer Stress pg. 2 ‘Filicoides’: a small open-growing conifer with long, thin branches and green fern-spray foliage. In time it reaches 5 ft. ‘Aurea’: a broad pyramidal conifer with whorls of rich golden yellow foliage. Grows up to 15 ft. ‘Juniperoides’: a dense slow-growing dwarf with green foliage that can reach 10 ft. ‘Tetragona Aurea’: compact upright but variable, moss-like foliage, golden yellow color when grown in sun, slow-growing, benefits from trimming. We’ve planted many more C. obtusa cultivars in the Conifer Reference Garden over the past year, and some are doing really well. We’ll see which ones withstand the test of time in our challenging climate. Summer Stress We have been experiencing a real heatwave in middle Georgia, and these conditions can make life miserable for both plants and gardeners. Temperatures in the high 90s and several weeks without rain can lead to serious, sometimes fatal, conditions for landscape plants. Here at Lockerly we have lost a number of mature trees and shrubs in the past month that were not under irrigation. The plants that are among the first to show major heat and drought stress include dogwood, Japanese maple, oakleaf hydrangea, fothergilla, and azalea. Plants like hydrangeas are good indicators of the stress your landscape is undergoing. If they look droopy, take this as a sign that all the plants in your landscape need water! Heat stress symptoms range from wilting and pale yellow color to marginal leaf scorching, leaf cupping and defoliation. Trees and shrubs planted in the past year and those with other stresses (root damage from soil compaction, for instance) are the most seriously affected. Drought makes the situation much worse. Drought stress is often compounded by an increase in insect and disease problems. Powdery mildew and spider mites are common predators of stressed plants. If your landscape plants get too stressed, consider cutting them back to help conserve water. If they are wilting badly and you are unable to irrigate them sufficiently, cutting them back will help them survive. Plants become stressed when their foliage demands more water than their roots can supply, and reducing a plant's top area will reduce the demand on its roots. One of the best ways to reduce plant stress from heat and drought is to use a generous layer of mulch over the roots. Fine-textured mulches, such as pine straw, pine-bark mininuggets, or composted wood mulch hold moisture in the soil better than coarse-textured mulches. Lastly, don’t even think about applying fertilizers when plants are undergoing drought stress. Chemically, fertilizers are salts, and fertilizer salts in dry soil will pull water from the roots, further dehydrating them. Good luck, and try and stay cool!