When Your Floor Arrives - Carlisle Wide Plank Floors

Transcription

When Your Floor
Arrives
Installing and Finishing Your New
Custom Coat™ or Unfinished
Wide Plank Floor
DEAR CARLISLE CUSTOMER
Congratulations on your purchase
of a Carlisle Wide Plank Floor!
We believe that the unique living surface we create inside your home should
reflect and respect the unique living surface that nature has created outside your
home. This is the spirit that guides us as we employ the greenest of forest
management techniques and craft each board one at a time in order to
maximize its natural beauty. A Carlisle Wide Plank Floor is more than
something you walk on. It is an authentic representation of genuine folk
art, destined to become a treasured family heirloom and capable of lasting well
over 200 years.
Our installation and finishing processes are simple and easy to follow. We hope
that the instructions contained in this manual will become a handy reference
for you and will help you achieve the exact look you want. Previous customers
have told us that their installation experiences were fun and rewarding. We
hope that you too will share your installation experience with us once your
floor is completed.
Finally, please remember that Carlisle is with you throughout the entire process.
Every member of our sales and design staff has had hands-on training in the
most up-to-date installation applications and techniques. If you encounter a
problem or have a question, we are only a phone call away at 800-595-9663.
So let the adventure begin. Have FUN designing your own floor, enjoying the
feeling of accomplishment, and basking in the accolades that are sure to come!
Your friends at Carlisle Wide Plank Floors
Table of Contents
Shipping, Delivering, and Unloading Your Floor
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4
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5
__________________________________________________________________________
6
Acclimating Your Unfinished Wood
What You’ll Need
Finding and Identifying Your Subfloor
________________________________________________
7-8
Adhesives ___________________________________________________________________________________ 9
Installation
Nailing Methods and Patterns ________________________________________________________ 10
Edges ____________________________________________________________________________________ 11
Helpful Installation Hints ____________________________________________________________ 12
Installing a Carlisle Floor Over a Plywood-and-Joist Subfloor ____________________ 13
Installing a Carlisle Floor Over a Concrete Slab _________________________________ 14-15
Installing a Carlisle Floor Over Radiant Heat ____________________________________ 16-17
The Carlisle Approach to Not Sanding Your Floor _____________________________________ 18
Finishing Your Floor (Unfinished Wood Only) __________________________________________ 19
Applying Carlisle Traditional Stains™ (Unfinished Wood Only)
________________________
20
Applying Carlisle Traditional Finishes™ ________________________________________________ 21-22
Maintenance and Refinishing (Unfinished Wood Only) __________________________________ 23
Maintenance and Refinishing, Custom Coat™ (Pre-Finished Wood) ______________________ 24
The Carlisle Finishing Guide (Unfinished Wood) – All Tung Oil _______________________ 25
The Carlisle Finishing Guide, (Unfinished Wood) ________________________________________ 26
The Carlisle Finishing Guide, Custom Coat™ (Pre-Finished Wood) – Full Refinish _____ 27
The Carlisle Finishing Guide, Custom Coat™ (Pre-Finished Wood) – Spot Refinish _____ 28
This manual is designed to help you employ the best installation techniques
for your Carlisle Wide Plank Floor, based on the latest facts available
at the time of printing.
Our design consultants are available for installation questions
8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST seven days a week.
Please call 800-595-9663.
Shipping, Delivering, and
Unloading Your Floor
Shipping and Delivery
Your handcrafted wide plank wood floor will typically be
delivered via common carrier. These trucks are about 36
feet long, so please keep in mind that the truck will need
to access your home or job site, and must be able to
park and turn around.
We’ll be calling you two to three weeks before your floor
is to be delivered and then again the day your floor leaves
the mill. The next phone call you receive will be from the
trucking company to schedule the exact day and approximate time frame for delivery. All this information will help
prepare you for what to expect when your floor is delivered.
Unloading
On the date of delivery, be prepared with tin snips, a pry bar,
a hammer, and two or three people to unload the planks. We offer a
service that includes the unloading of your floor, Carlisle White Glove
Service™, which does add to the cost of your shipment. Call us to
discuss this option.
When your floor arrives, you will need to cut the tin straps, pry open
the crate, and carefully unload each board to ensure that your floor does
not get damaged. We recommend wearing white gloves as you handle
the planks so as not to soil, scratch, or mark the wood. Stack the wood
in a location close to, but not in, the room where you’ll be installing the
floor. The longest boards should be placed at the bottom of the stack
and the shorter boards on the top.
Please note that for random-width floors you should stack the different
widths in separate piles to make the installation easier.
4 • wideplankflooring.com • 800-595-9663
Acclimating Your Unfinished Wood
At Carlisle, we go through a lengthy process to ensure that your wood has been properly dried. The result is wood
that is healthy, pliable, and stable regardless of your climate. It is equally important to properly acclimate your floor
to the environment in which it will be living. Once acclimated, you shouldn’t have any problem with board
movement. However, some change in your floor from season to season, or as your floor settles, is perfectly normal
and is part of the traditional look of a beautiful wide plank floor.
Stacking the Planks
The wood should be properly
stacked for a minimum of eight
to ten days; however, the length
of time may vary depending on
weather conditions. The more
humid, the longer your wood
will take to acclimate.
Your Carlisle Personal Design
Consultant can help develop the
proper acclimating plan for you.
We recommend stacking the
planks parallel to each other and
separating them with 1/2" x 2" x 4'
kiln-dried stickers – also called
lathe or furring strips – available at
your local building supply store.
Make sure that the strips/stickers are dry, because “green” stakes can leave a stain on your floorboards.
If you can’t find dry stickers, another option is to double-stack your boards face-to-face and use the green stickers to
separate each double stack. That way any staining will occur on the underside of the boards.
We recommend you use 80-100 stickers per 1,000 square feet of floor. Cover the planks with a thin piece of
plywood to keep them clean and then place some weight on top to keep the wood from cupping or crowning
during acclimation.
Hint: You can use a few cinder blocks, sandbags, or your cans of finish on top for weight. This will keep the
boards flat during acclimation.
Heating and Air-Conditioning Systems
All heat or air systems, including radiant heat, should be working at “live in” temperatures prior to the floor arriving
and during the acclimation process. This will allow your flooring to acclimate to the specific climate and conditions
of your home.
wideplankflooring.com • 800-595-9663 • 5
What You’ll Need
All the tools needed for proper installation are readily available at local rental and hardware stores – you may already
have most of them in your tool shed.
For Installing Your Unfinished and Custom Coat™ Floor:
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Power nailer or pneumatic stapler
Chalk line
Tape measure
Chop, circular, or radial arm saw
Caulking gun
Square
Utility knife
Rubber mallet
Nail punch
(if you are using face nails)
• Finishing nail gun
• Sawhorses
• Subfloor adhesive
See page 9
• Concrete adhesive
See page 14-15
• Floor straps and weights
(for direct glue installation)
• Square notch trowels
(for concrete installation)
See page 14-15
For Finishing Your Unfinished Floor:
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Drywall sanding pole
Sandpaper (220-400 grit)
Stain cloths
Six-inch brush
Mineral spirits, paint thinner or
Citrus Solvent
Foam Applicator
• Rubber gloves
• Paper respirator mask
• For Tung Oil, use Lamb’s wool
applicator or Foam Paint Pad
• For Carlisle Traditional Finish, use
Nylfoam (or equivalent) applicator
with swivel T-bar coater
• Paint tray and liners
• Foam paintbrush
Lamb’s Wool Applicator
Finding and Identifying
Your Subfloor
To determine your installation method, find the illustration that most resembles your floor type or your preferred
installation method. Then go to the pages indicated for detailed installation instructions. If you don’t see your floor
type here or have questions regarding which installation method you should use, give us a call at 800-595-9663.
Plywood-and-Joist Subfloor – See page 13
or OSB
Concrete Slab –
See pages 14-15
Radiant Heat – See pages 16-17
Adhesives for Installation
Over Subfloors
We recommend that you use PL Premium or PL 400 adhesives from OSI. These products are available at local
hardware stores or lumberyards and are often used by flooring contractors and installation professionals. The PL
products will hold the wood tightly without becoming too hard or brittle. This “flexibility” allows the adhesive to
adjust to minor fluctuations in your planks without cracking or losing its holding power. The PL products come in
a caulking gun tube for easy application.
Application of Adhesive
One large tube will cover about 100 square feet and a small tube will cover 40 square feet.
1. Cut the end of the tube to create about a ¼" opening.
2. Apply a bead of glue across the back of the board (some people prefer to use a “snaking” pattern),
with the first bead about 1½" from the end and ½" from the edge of the plank (refer to illustration).
3. The beads should be placed about 8" to 10" apart. (Do not run the beads down the length of the
boards in grooves.)
4. Keep the glue about ½" from the edge of the plank. If the glue squeezes into the joint between the planks,
it becomes difficult to close the edge seam.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT GLUE the tongues and grooves or end joints! And remember to always keep the glue
off the face of the planks!
Helpful Hints for Applying Adhesives
• Use a brightly colored plastic paint tray to hold your caulking gun when you set it down. The color will
make it easy to find and the glue on the gun won’t stick to the plastic tray.
• Keep your work area clean. This will limit cleanups and reduce the need to sand.
• Keep some clean rags and mineral spirits available to wipe up spilled or excess glue on the face of the boards.
• Wear white-soled tennis shoes to avoid scuffs.
Installing Your Unfinished and
Custom Coat™ Pre-Finished Floor
We strongly recommend that you nail – either blind nail or face nail – and use an adhesive to
secure your floor planks.
IMPORTANT: For Custom Coat™ floors, please use the utmost care in handling your pre-finished wood
to minimize any damage to the finish.
Nailing Methods and Patterns
Face Nailing
When customers want the look of an
antique or traditional floor, especially on
wider widths, we suggest face nailing the
boards with our antique-cut nails. We
recommend the traditional method of
face nailing every 32" on center. Generally,
for boards up to 13" wide we recommend
using two face nails, and four nails for
boards 14"-20" wide. Shown are a few
examples of the more traditional
patterns for face nailing.
You will need to predrill for hardwoods,
heart pine, and antique woods.
Predrilling is recommended for the end
holes in Eastern White Pine to eliminate
checking. Place the nails about 11/2"
from the edges and ends of the boards,
slightly angling the nails.
Staggered Face-Nailing
Pattern
Blind Nailing
When blind nailing through the tongues,
you may use either T-nails or staples.
Both methods are acceptable to secure
wide plank floors. We prefer T-nails on
6"-8" centers, because they tend to draw
the planks together a little tighter.
8”
Blind Nailing on 8” Centers
Edges
Tongue-and-Groove Edge
This edge allows you to blind nail while also using an adhesive on the underside of the planks. When blind nailing,
space the nails every 8". For planks that are 13" and wider, we recommend face nailing, both for stability and for
the most authentic look.
Hint: If you choose to use 15 lb. felt paper instead of an adhesive, you should blind nail and face nail,
or face nail only.
Tongue-and-Groove Edge
Square Edge and
Shiplap Edge
With either of these edges, face nail your planks –
blind nailing is not an option. You will face nail
in addition to gluing.
For planks that are 13" and wider, we recommend
face nailing, both for stability and for the most
authentic look. When face nailing with 3" antique-cut
nails, be sure to nail into your floor joists.
Square Edge
Hint: Consider predrilling a hole at every other joist
before nailing to prevent hardwoods from splitting.
Shiplap Edge
Helpful Hints for
All Installation Methods
Random Widths
If you are using random widths, avoid
repeating the same pattern, as you may run
out of some widths before you complete the
floor. Instead, you need to randomly stagger the
widths of the board runs. By randomly placing
the widths, you will preserve the integrity and
look of the floor.
The First Row
Random Widths
No matter which installation method you use, be especially careful when laying down the first row.
It is imperative that it be straight to guide subsequent rows. If your room is square, you can accomplish this
by measuring out ½" from the starting wall at the beginning and end of the room and then snapping a chalk line.
Use the line to gauge where the planks should line up.
Plan ahead! In order to maximize the beautiful long lengths of the boards you received and reduce waste, before
beginning a run that is more than one board long, make sure that you have enough boards of the same width to
complete the run. If you cut a board in order to finish a run, then use that cut piece to start a run the next time
you use that width.
End Squaring
All planks up to 12" in width are end-squared at our mill prior to shipping, dramatically reducing your installation
time. However, if you cut an end, it must be cut square in order to get your butt joints to match as tightly as
possible. If you are using a circular saw, you should use a finish-quality blade and a builder’s square, or jig, as a
guide for your cut. Cutting the butt joints with a 2- or 3-degree back bevel also works well.
Seating the Tongueand-Groove Edges
Because of the long lengths, you
may have to overcome a slight
bow in the boards in order to get
your tongue-and-groove edges
to fit or seat properly. You may
use a wedge in these cases.
The wedge should be at least 12"
long. Use a tongue-and-groove
wedge on the planks. Hit the
wedge toward the end that you
haven’t fastened down yet. Drive
the wedge with a rubber mallet
until the gap is closed.
Seating the Planks
Installing a Carlisle Floor Over
a Plywood-and-Joist Subfloor
We recommend that old-growth hardwoods, heart pine, and antique woods be milled with a tongue-and-groove
edge and that you follow these instructions:
The planks can run in any direction that you would like. If you run them parallel, you should use a ¾" subfloor
(at least) and secure it properly. You can eliminate bounce by using adhesive. For planks 10" and wider, an
occasional face nail or finish nail close to the end of the board will help set the board into the adhesive.
1. Be prepared to square the ends of boards more than 12" in width (12" and under, with the exception of milled
barn wood, are end-squared at our mill). Please call us to determine what type of saw will be most appropriate
to use. Apply a subfloor adhesive to the back of each floorboard. (Refer to Adhesives on page 9.)
2. For tongue-and-groove edges: Rent a power nailer or pneumatic stapler from your local hardware store and
follow tool instructions to blind nail each plank every 8" through the tongue of the plank into the subfloor.
(See tongue-and-groove edge illustration on page 10.)
3. For shiplap and square edges: Face nail your planks as described on page 11. You may face nail with antique-cut
nails for a traditional look. Three-inch nails can be nailed into your joists, or 11/4" mock-cut nails can be
used for decorative purposes.
4. If you decide to face nail your old-growth hardwoods, antique woods, or heart pine, you should predrill each
plank at every other joist (32" on center) before putting in your antique-cut nails. This prevents the hardwood
from splitting.
or OSB
Wide Planks Over Joists
Wide Planks Over Radiant Heat Tubes and Joists
a Concrete Slab
We encourage the use of a plywood subfloor when installing our floor over a concrete slab. The additional plywood
subfloor will make your floor warmer and more comfortable when walking on the finished floor. The thickness of
the plywood can be altered to meet your height allowance. We can also mill our planks thinner than our standard
¾" thickness if height is a concern.
Wide Planks Over Concrete
IMPORTANT: The difference between the moisture content of the concrete and the Carlisle wood
should not exceed 3%.
Some examples of plywood/finished floor thickness combinations that can be used for concrete slab installations:
½" plywood and ½" milled planks
5
/8" plywood and ½" milled planks
¾" plywood and ¾" milled planks
We encourage you to discuss the appropriate combination for your floor with your Carlisle Personal
Design Consultant.
Alternate Method of Gluing Directly to Concrete
The alternate method of gluing directly to concrete is a more involved process that requires special attention and is
only necessary for height allowances that are less than 1". We recommend using Bostik’s Best® or Sika adhesive
products for installations of this nature. For technical information about these products, call the manufacturers at
978-777-0100 for Bostik’s or 800-993-7452 for Sika. If you’re in a situation where you must install directly to
concrete, please contact your Carlisle Personal Design Consultant for assistance.
Concrete Slab With Plywood Subfloor and Simple Vapor Barrier
The procedures outlined on these pages are the latest recommendations from the adhesive manufacturers and
suppliers. Please note that the installation method over concrete also works for a concrete slab containing
radiant heat tubes.
Hint: Before you install your plywood subfloor and flooring, make sure that the concrete slab has cured and is
thoroughly dry – at least one month. A calcium moisture test may also be used if moisture content is unclear.
continued on next page
a Concrete Slab – continued
If your concrete slab does NOT have radiant tubes:
1. Place a layer of 6 mm polyethylene onto the concrete as your moisture barrier.
2. Use a Hilti direct fastening tool to shoot concrete nails into plywood to apply directly onto concrete.
OR
1. Build a floating subfloor with two layers of ½" plywood crisscrossed, glued, and nailed together. The plywood is
not adhered to the concrete, which makes it a “floating” subfloor.
2. Follow instructions for installing over a plywood-and-joist subfloor on page 13.
If your concrete slab has radiant tubes:
Method 1
For greater moisture protection, Bostik’s* MVP two-step
system is recommended under the plywood.
Follow this two-step process using Bostik’s MVP and
Bostik’s Best or use Sika**.
1. First, using the notched side of a Bostik’s #9 V-Notch
trowel (3/16" wide x 5/32" deep), spread a uniformly
thick 30-mil membrane (about the thickness of a
credit card) of Bostik’s MVP. A gallon will typically
cover about 50 square feet. Allow 12 hours of drying time.
Wide Planks Over Concrete With
1
1
Embedded Radiant Heat Tubes
2. Next, apply one layer of Bostik’s Best (using a /4" x /8" square
notch trowel) onto the concrete per manufacturer’s instructions.
A gallon will typically cover about 40 square feet.
3. Place plywood onto the concrete and apply sufficient weight to improve adhesion. Allow 12 hours of drying time.
For greater moisture protection, Bostik’s* MVP two-step system is recommended under the engineered floor.
1. First, using the notched side of a Bostik’s #9 V-Notch trowel (3/16" wide x 5/32" deep), spread a uniformly thick
30-mil membrane (about the thickness of a credit card) of Bostik’s MVP to the entire concrete floor.
A gallon will typically cover about 50 square feet. Allow 12 hours to dry.
2. Next, apply one layer of Bostik’s Best (or Sika) adhesive to a small section of the concrete area where you will
install the engineered floor. Apply only enough to be able to work without getting into the adhesive and so
the adhesive doesn’t dry out. A gallon will typically cover about 40 square feet.
3. Install the floor over the adhesive. Apply sufficient weight to the floor to improve adhesion. Allow 12 hours to dry.
4. Apply additional adhesive to the next work section and continue to install and weight the floor.
Method 2
1. Build a floating subfloor with either two layers of ½" plywood crisscrossed, glued, and nailed together or
sleepers embedded in the concrete (2 x 4s laid flat on 12" centers). The plywood is not adhered to the
concrete, which makes it a “floating” subfloor.
*www.bostik-us.com or 888-592-8558.
**Sika only recommends and warrants wide solid-wood installations to a maximum board size of 8" wide and 8' long.
If you have any questions, please visit Sika at www.sikaconstruction.com/con/con-wfb.htm.
Installing a Carlisle Floor
Over Radiant Heat
IMPORTANT: The radiant system should be on and at live-in temperature for a minimum of one month prior
to installing the floor.
Radiant Heat and Joists – Under Subfloor
Method 1: Plywood and joists with radiant heat
Radian Heat
Between Joists
1. Apply adhesive across the back of the board (see page 10) and glue directly to plywood.
2. Blind nail each floorboard every 6"-8" through the tongue using a power nailer or pneumatic stapler. Use standard
T-nails or staples at least 11/2" long.
3. Face nail when applicable.
4. If you are face nailing a square edge or shiplap edge, adding two nails every 16" into the joists is sufficient for
widths up to 10". For wider planks, staggering a 3-2-3-2 pattern is recommended.
IMPORTANT: Take care to NOT puncture radiant tubing.
Method 2: Sleepers with gypcrete and radiant heat
Radiant Heat With
Sleepers and Gypcrete
1. Sleepers should be placed 10"-12" on center.
2. Apply a bead of PL 400 or PL Premium adhesive to the back of the boards.
3. Blind nail each floorboard to the sleepers every 10"-12" through the tongue using a power nailer or pneumatic
stapler. Standard T-nails or staples at least 11/2" long can be used.
5. If you are face nailing a square edge or shiplap edge, adding two nails every other sleeper is sufficient for widths
up to 10". For wider planks, staggering a 3-2-3-2 pattern is recommended.
Radiant Heat – continued
Mounted Radiant Heat Subfloor
Method 1: Warmboard (warmboard.com) with mounted radiant heat
Mounted Radiant Heat
Over Concrete
1. Apply a bead of adhesive across the back of the board (see page 9) and glue directly to the Warmboard.
We recommend PL Premium adhesive.
2. Blind nail each floorboard every 6"-8" through the tongue using a power nailer or pneumatic stapler.
Standard T-nails or staples at least 11/2" long can be used.
4. If you are face nailing a square edge or shiplap edge, adding two nails every 16" into the sleepers is sufficient
for widths up to 10". For wider planks, staggering a 3-2-3-2 pattern is recommended.
Method 2: Concrete slab with mounted radiant heat tubes mounted in plywood subfloor
Wide Planks Over Radiant
Heat Subfloor and Joists
1. Apply a bead of adhesive across the back of the board (see page 10) and glue directly to the routed plywood.
2. Blind nail each floorboard every 6"-8" through the tongue using a power nailer or pneumatic stapler.
Standard T-nails or staples at least 11/2" long can be used.
4. If you are face nailing a square edge or shiplap edge, adding two short nails every 16" into the
joists is sufficient for widths up to 10". For wider planks, staggering a 3-2-3-2 pattern is recommended.
The Carlisle Approach to
Not Sanding Your Floor
For Unfinished Wood Only
We Recommend a Light Touch
Our extensive knowledge of wood, coupled with
our complete understanding of the history of the
wide plank floor, has led us to certain beliefs
regarding the final look and finish of our floors.
You will find that during the milling process our
craftsmen have preserved the natural variations in
each board – variations that tell the story of the tree
from which the wood came. Every imperfection
that you find is planned and meant to be included
in your traditional floor – as is every planer mark,
every knot, and every wind check.
Whether to sand your floor is a personal choice.
Our fine milling results in a surface that is smooth
and ready for finishing. Sanding isn’t necessary.
Please be aware that sanding tends to eliminate
some natural character and affects the final color
of your floor. This is especially true of our
Eastern White Pine.
There are a variety of job-site conditions that may
require you to lightly sand the floor. In these rare
cases, it is highly recommended to use VERY fine
sandpaper and a VERY light touch.
IMPORTANT: Heavy commercial sanding is
to be avoided.
Also, keep in mind that cleaning a Carlisle floor
does not require sanding. The cleaning process is
very important to the finishing results. When the
installation process is complete, make sure your
new floor is vacuumed clean. If there are any dirt
spots on the floor, you can simply clean the floor
with mineral spirits, which will remove dirt and
shoe marks.
Finishing Your Floor
Getting Started
By this stage in the process, we have worked with you to determine the style that you want to achieve with the
floor. The many factors that were taken into consideration when deciding on the style that best suits your home
include how dark or light you want your rooms to be, how rustic or contemporary you want your floor to look,
and what degree of wear and tear your floor will receive. Each of these factors plays a significant role in how you
will finish the floor.
Natural Finish
If you opt for a natural look, we recommend that you use one of Carlisle’s environmentally friendly low VOC
finishes without a stain. Turn to pages 21 for application instructions.
Pre-finish
If you opt to have your floor pre-finished by Carlisle, we recommend that Carlisle stains and finishes be used for
maintenance, touch-ups, and refinishing. If you have questions about applying additional finish at the job site, please
contact your Carlisle Personal Design Consultant.
Stains
Once you have applied the stain to your floor, it becomes much more difficult to change your mind. We highly
recommend that you test your stain by making small color samples with leftover scrap pieces of flooring. If you are
interested to see how the stain looks over a larger section, we suggest applying the stain to a hidden area,
such as a closet.
Because the finish coats can affect the stain color and look of the grain structure, we also suggest applying one or
two coats of finish over the stain on your sample piece. This will give you a true example of the final color of
your flooring.
We recommend our own low-VOC Carlisle Traditional Stains™. We offer a full palette of colors, many of which
are based on the antique floors that we have carefully studied in order to authentically duplicate their rich look
and patina. Another thing that sets our stains apart is that the oil-based pigments we use are extremely finely
ground so that they permeate the wood more evenly without blotching, adding a deep lustrous patina as opposed
to a “painted on” look.
If you need help finding stains or getting the color or look you want, please let us assist you. Remember, you are free
to mix stain colors in order to achieve the look you desire; however, the proportions you use for your sample must
be exactly replicated to finish the entire floor.
To reduce drying time at each step, make sure you have adequate ventilation and a cross airflow in the rooms you
are finishing. Use box fans in windows to create cross ventilation, but do not blow air on the floor. Instead, focus
on moving the air out of the room.
Applying Carlisle
Traditional Stains™
Carlisle Traditional Stains must be stirred for at
least five minutes. This ensures that all the
pigment from the bottom of the can is stirred
in with the stain and keeps the color of your
floor uniform from one gallon to the next. Be sure
to stir again every 10 to 15 minutes throughout
the entire staining process.
If you have mixed your own unique color, or
need more than one gallon, make one huge
batch of stain so the color remains uniform over
the entire floor. The stain is meant to be applied
as is. If you desire a lighter shade, we can help
you determine the best way to accomplish this
– just call us!
Applying Carlisle Traditional Low-VOC Stains
Apply an entire room’s coat of stain at one time, with breaks between rooms on thresholds only. Stopping in the
middle of a room will leave lines that cannot be blended.
1. Sweep or vacuum the floor.
2. Wipe the floor down with mineral spirits or paint thinner to ensure a clean, dry surface and to identify any
swirl marks. Allow to dry.
3. Mix stain well prior to use and be sure to stir again every 10 to 15 minutes throughout the entire staining process.
Any sign of scuff marks or glue on the floor after wiping down with mineral spirits should be addressed before
applying the stain.
4. The best method to apply stain is with stain rags (cotton cloths available at hardware stores), applying it with one
rag and wiping off excess with a second clean rag; next best is with a lamb’s wool applicator attached to a mop
handle. If your baseboards are in place, use a foam paint brush around the edge of the floor.
5. Move in the direction the flooring is laid, not across the boards. Take two or three rows of flooring and stain them
completely from one end to the other, then work your way back down the room with a new set of rows. This
method facilitates blending the stain that is being applied with the stain already applied, because the rows will
meet on a straight edge.
6. As you apply the stain, you will want to wipe excess stain off the floor with rags to ensure that it is evenly applied.
If you want your stain to be darker, just let the stain soak for a minute or two before wiping off the excess stain.
7. Open windows, turn on fans, and allow at least 24 hours for fresh air to circulate prior to sealing or top coating.
Humidity may affect drying time.
8. Apply Carlisle Traditional Finishes (see pages 21).
IMPORTANT: In most cases, to accurately match the sample stain color, two coats of Carlisle Tung Oil must be
applied. Please note the stains and finishes on your sample and discuss the best finishing process with your
Carlisle design consultant.
Carlisle Environmentally Friendly
Traditional Finishes™
During our 40 years in this business, we have found that there is no better finishing product for our floors than
Carlisle Traditional Finishes. Our finishes not only penetrate into the fibers of the wood to seal and protect them,
but provide a natural-looking patina reminiscent of the hand-waxed finish on the original floors in America. Our
Traditional Clear Finish has very low VOC. However, there are many other products on the market that have been
used with good results. Call us and we’ll be happy to talk with you about the different options available for finishing
your floor.
In most cases for best results we recommend four coats of finish. Allow 2 to 24 hours of drying time between coats,
depending on type of finish used. (See can label for specifics.) The sheen will mellow over several months to a satin
finish. For details on alternate application methods, contact your Carlisle Personal Design Consultant.
Hint: The finishing product must be stirred frequently throughout the entire process.
Depending on which finish you use, one gallon will cover a 400-600 square-foot area. (See can label for specifics.)
Following this recommendation will ensure that the finish will level, penetrate, and dry properly.
Amber Tone Finish (See diagram left side page 26)
Start by Applying Carlisle Transparent Tung oil
1. Wear white-soled shoes, socks, or booties during application to prevent scuff marks.
2. The finish should be applied evenly with a lamb’s wool applicator attached to the end of a drywall sanding pole.
An alternate method would be to use a foam paint pad attached to a mop handle.
3. Apply the first coat of Carlisle Transparent Tung Oil – moving down the length of the boards. Do not mop across
the boards. The floor will be glossy.
4. Let the finish dry for 24 hours. Drying time will vary from job site to job site, depending on humidity levels at
the time. Full air replacement will help reduce drying time. Open windows and turn on fans to allow fresh air
to circulate.
5. Dispose of the applicator and use a clean applicator for each additional coat.
6. Apply a second coat of Transparent Tung Oil.
7. Let the finish dry for 24 hours. (See can label for specifics.)
IMPORTANT: Sanding between coats is NOT required if additional coats are applied within 24 hours.
A light hand-sanding (using 320-400 grit no-load paper) is recommended between coats for times
greater than 24 hours.
Continue by Applying Carlisle Traditional Finish
This is a quicker installation process that involves fewer odors and results in a harder finish.
IMPORTANT: It is recommended that the surface be lightly maroon-padded between coats.
1. Apply the first coat of Traditional Clear Finish. The floor will now have a satin sheen.
2. Let the finish dry for two to three hours.
3. Apply a second coat of clear finish.
4. Clean and/or dispose of the applicator.
5. Let the finish dry for two to three hours.
IMPORTANT: If no Tung Oil coat is applied, we recommend three coats of clear finish.
After the final coat you may see minor lap marks and rough areas. This is natural and will disappear over time.
Carlisle Environmentally Friendly
Traditional Finishes™– continued
Or Use Tung Oil For All Finish Layers (See diagram page 25)
This installation will take a little longer but results in a more forgiving surface that is easier to touch-up.
IMPORTANT: Sanding between coats is NOT required if additional coats are applied wihtin 24 hours.
A light hand-sanding (using 320-400 grit no-load paper) is recommended between coats for times
greater than 24 hours.
1. Apply Tung Oil with a lamb’s wool applicator, finishing three to four boards at a time over the length of the room.
You must use the entire amount of Tung Oil sent to you, so apply liberally. One gallon should cover approximately
400-500 square feet.
IMPORTANT: Keep all windows open during the application and drying process, exchanging the air in the
room as often as possible with window and box fans.
2. If you are using the Antique Satin formula, you must stir it continually during the application process because
it contains flattening agents that will dull the final sheen.
3. Let the first coat dry for a minimum of 24 hours. Drying time will vary greatly depending on the temperature and
humidity at the site.
4. Clean the applicator in turpentine or mineral spirits and leave it in mineral spirits overnight in an open
container. Squeeze out any excess mineral spirits prior to using the applicator on the next coat.
5. For superior results, we recommend that four coats be applied.
6. If the Original Transparent formula is chosen for the final coat, it will produce a medium-gloss sheen that will
mellow with time. If the Antique Satin formula is chosen, it will result in a low-gloss finish.
Applying Carlisle Traditional Finish When No Amber Tone Is Desired
(See right hand diagram page 26)
1. Follow steps 1-5 on page 21 for Applying Carlisle Traditional Finish and apply three coats of
Carlisle Traditional Finish.
2. Move in the direction the flooring is laid, not across the boards. Finish three or four boards at a time
for the entire length of the room.
3. For precise control around the perimeter, use a paint pad.
4. It is not necessary to sand between coats for adhesion purposes. Maroon-Pad between coats if floor is out
of your direct control and/or any substances may have gotten on the floor and could impact ashesion.
IMPORTANT: If there is any question as to maroon pad between coats.
5. Foam applicators are inexpensive. Consider buying four applicators and using a fresh one for
each finish application.
Maintenance
Wash the floor and dry mop as needed, using a mixture of vinegar and water for every fourth mopping. If you need
to clean the floor, mix a small amount of dish soap or Windex® with water. Murphy® Oil Soap can also be used for
a more waxed look.
Refinishing With Tung Oil
Tung Oil can be applied to the entire floor or to high-wear areas as required. Vacuum and wipe the area with mineral
spirits prior to application. The spot will quickly blend in with the rest of the floor. Sanding is NOT necessary.
Maintenance and Refinishing
Maintenance
If you finished your floor with one of our Traditional Finishes, you can wash your floor on an as-needed basis.
Use a mixture of water and two capfuls of white vinegar to damp mop your floor. If you want to use a cleanser,
mix a capful of dish detergent (or Windex) with a bucket of warm water and mop the floor. Be sure to towel dry
any excess moisture. You can also use Murphy Oil Soap for a more hand-waxed look (following the label directions).
Refinishing
The frequency with which you refinish your floor will depend on the level of wear and tear the floor gets and how
you want your floor to look. If you want to retain a high luster and a “newer” look, you should apply another coat
of finish in a few years. For an older, more worn appearance, you don’t need to apply another coat for 10 to 15 years!
Spot Refinishing
If you have used one of our Traditional Finishes, you can touch up high-traffic areas (for example, in front of the
refrigerator) that are showing more wear than you would like. To do this, lightly maroon-pad the surface to be
re-finished, vacuum, and wipe with vinegar and water or a stronger cleaner if necessary. Please contact your Carlisle
design consultant for recommendations. Let dry. Tape off the area to be coated and apply another coat of finish.
This spot will quickly blend with the rest of the floor as it wears.
Maintenance and Refinishing
For Custom Coat™ Pre-Finished Floors
Maintenance
You can wash your floor on an as-needed basis. Use a mixture of water and two capfuls of white vinegar to damp
mop your floor. If you want to use a cleanser, mix a capful of dish detergent (or Windex) with a bucket of warm
water and mop the floor. Be sure to towel dry any excess moisture. You can also use Murphy Oil Soap for a more
hand-waxed look (following the label directions).
Touch Up Stained Floor (See diagram page 28)
If your floor has some deep scratches where the bare floor shows through the stain:
1. Tape off boards.
2. Clean the floor using a stronger commercial cleaner such as Loba Floor Cleaner Concentrate or Loba Remover.
3. Lightly buff the area immediately surrounding the scratch with a maroon pad.
4. Apply Carlisle Green Seal™ Stain (dark, medium, or light) and allow to dry. You can also buy
a generic stain that matches your floor color from any local hardwood store.
5. Follow directions for spot refinishing.
Touch Up Non-Stained Floor (See diagram page 28)
If your floor has some deep scratches where the bare floor shows through the finish:
2. Lightly buff the area immediately surrounding the scratch with a maroon pad.
3. Follow directions for spot refinishing.
Refinish Entire Floor (See diagram page 27)
If after years of constant, heavy use you decide to refinish the entire (or large portions of) your floor:
2. Lightly pad the area that is to be refinished with a maroon pad.
3. Vacuum up all dust.
4. Apply two coats of Carlisle Traditional Finish using the maroon pad between coats.
(Please refer to can label for instructions.)
IMPORTANT: If second coat is applied within 24 hours there is no need to sand the floor between coats..
5. Finish coat will be dry and can be walked on in two to three hours, with light wear after 24 hours and
full cure after 5 days. Please do not replace rugs until 72 hours of curing time have elapsed.
Resurfacing Your Floor
Should your floor be damaged beyond a simple refinish and you feel it needs to be completely resanded,
we recommend contacting your Carlisle Personal Design Consultant for information.
To Contact Loba: 800.474.6019
The Carlisle Finishing Guide
Unfinished Wood
All Tung Oil
(Longer install, more forgiving, easier to refinish)
Vacuum Floor to remove
any dirt or dust
Apply 1st Coat
Carlisle Tung Oil
Let Dry
24 Hours
Apply 2nd Coat
Carlisle Tung Oil
Let Dry
24 Hours
Apply 3rd Coat*
Carlisle Tung Oil
Let Dry
24 Hours
Apply Final Coat*
Carlisle Tung Oil
* Use Carlisle transparent or satin Tung oil depending on desired sheen level
Unfinished Wood
Natural Amber
OR
Natural Clear
(Quicker install, fewer odors, harder finish)
Apply 1st Coat
Carlisle Tung Oil
Apply 1st Coat
Carlisle Traditional Finish
Let Dry
24 Hours
Let Dry
2-3 Hours
Apply 2nd Coat
Carlisle Tung Oil
Apply 2nd Coat
Let Dry
24 Hours
Let Dry
2-3 Hours
Apply 1st Coat
Lightly Maroon-Pad
Floor
Let Dry
2-3 Hours
Vacuum Any
Dust
Lightly Maroon-Pad
Floor
Apply Final Coat
Vacuum Any
Dust
Apply Final Coat
Custom CoatTM Pre-Finished Wood
Full Refinish
Vacuum Floor and Clean
With Loba Floor Cleaner
Concentrate or Loba Remover
Let Dry
Lightly Maroon-Pad
Floor
Vacuum Any
Dust
Apply 1st Coat
Let Dry
2-3 Hours
Lightly Maroon-Pad
Floor
Vacuum Any
Dust
Apply Final Coat
Custom CoatTM Pre-Finished Wood
Spot Refinish
Tape Off Area to Be
Refinished
Vacuum Floor and Clean
With Loba Floor Cleaner
Concentrate or Loba Remover
Let Dry
Lightly Maroon-Pad
Floor
Vacuum Any
Dust
Apply Stain If
Applicable and Let Dry
Apply 1st Coat
Let Dry
2-3 Hours
Lightly Maroon-Pad
Floor
Vacuum Any
Dust
Apply Final Coat
We Offer a Lifetime
Quality Assurance Guarantee
With Every Floor We Make.
^
^
D STE
WA
FIE
TI
R
GR
EEN FLOO
S
O
F
S
RD
CE
R
Our guarantee to you is simple...we will stand behind
your floor 100%. If at any time during the life
of your floor there is a problem caused by the quality
of our wood or our manufacturing process,
we will craft a new floor for your home
at no charge.
Atlanta • Chicago • Denver • Stoddard
Washington, DC • West Hollywood
800-595-9663
wideplankflooring.com
SW-COC-002350
FSC certification ensures responsible
use of forest resources
© 1996 Forest Stewardship Council A.C.
We Are Proud to Be Members of These Organizations:
WINNER FOR
ETHICS IN BUSINESS
Printed with soy ink. 100% process chlorine free. 50% recycled content including 25% postconsumer recycled paper
IAFG-08-09

When Your Floor Arrives - Carlisle Wide Plank Floors

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