off Highway 101 - Wine Country This Week

Transcription

DAY TRIPS
Spring/Summer 2010
PREFERRED
Sonoma Wine Country
off Highway 101
7 Wine Tasting Trips plus
35 Tasting Room Reviews
from Geyserville to Petaluma
A publication of
The Magazine of California Wine Country
www.WineCountryThisWeek.com
Eastside Bunch
Rockpile
SIA
RUS
FRITZ WINERY
STEWART’S POINT
R
IVE
FERRARI-CARANO
DUTCHER CROSSING
NR
Sbragia Family
TO THE
MENDOCINO
COAST
Alexander
Valley
DUTCHER CR
EEK
Lake
Sonoma
Silver
Oak
Vinwood Cellars
101
Kachina
Frick
David Caffaro
J Rickards
Bella Vineyards
Pedroncelli
Preston Vineyards
Geyser Peak
Zachichi
CANYON
RD
Talty
Palmeri
Yoakim Bridge Martin
Amphora.
Raymond Burr Vineyards
FORCHINI Terroirs Meeker Route 128 Winery
Göpfrich
PAPAPIETRO PERRY
TRUETT HURST Kokomo Mercury Trione deLORIMIER WINERY
Quivira
Family*
Michel-Schlumberger
CLOS DU BOIS
Unti
Rued
Francis
Passalacqua
Mounts
F. TeldeschiMauritson
Ford
TRENTADUE
A Rafanelli
Coppola
RD
DRY CREEK RD.
Dry
Creek
TO THE
MENDOCINO
COAST
DRY CREEK VNYD
.
CREEK RD
DRY
W.
Lambert Bridge
Everett Ridge
Duchamp Grove
Street
Johnson’s
ALDERBROOK
D.
Twomey
EA
ST
SID
E
RD
Inman Family
Peters
Family
BODEGA HIG
VA
L
LE
Y
FO
RD
CU
TO
F
T
IVE
PIN
TA
L
RIAL
Novy
ER
OL
Siduri
Paradise Ridge
RD
.
LE
OC
CID
HWA
Y
Battaglini
NE
VIL
Freestone Vineyards
Guest Center
Gourmet au Bay
D.
ER
Balletto &
Dutton-Goldfield
ENHanna
RD.
Taft Street Winery
R
GS
PRIN
INDUST
GU
FOUNTAIN
LTO
N
OCCIDENTAL
MARK W
EST
S
Carol Shelton
De Loach
Lynmar
Artiste
Downtown Wine
Front Street Wineries:
• Camellia Cellars
• Davis Family
• Sapphire Hills
• Holdredge
Hauck
Hawley Tasting Room & Gallery
Hudson Street Wineries
• Bluenose Wines
• Grove Street
• Owl Ridge
• Sadler-Wells
• Rocking Z Vineyard
• Teira
Gallo Family
La Crema
Lake Sonoma
Longboard Vineyards
Murphy-Goode
Optima
Rosenblum Cellars
Stephen & Walker
Thirty Four North Wine Merchant
Thumbprint
Toad Hollow
Waterfront Tasting Room
• J. Keverson
• Christie
• Hart’s Desire
Williamson
HOOK & LADDER
FU
Merry Edwards
SUNCÉ
Chalk
Hill
KENDALL-JACKSON
WINE CENTER
RUSSIAN HILL
AR
HIGHWAY
Dehlinger
House
GRATON RD.
T
Joseph Swan
ESTATE Martinelli
Pellegrini
Harvest Moon
MARTIN
RAY
UN
MIAN
Marimar Torres
River Road
DUTTON ESTATE
Occidental Road
Atascadero Creek
Graton Ridge
Woodenhead
ER
RD.
LAG
E
BOH
Green
Valley
RIV
EA
SA
N
HWY
Hartford Family
PL
D
WOO
RED
Mueller
Russian River Vnyds
Iron Horse
FERRARI-CARANO’S
SEASONS OF THE VINEYARD
KENDALL-JACKSON
PROHIBITION – The Speakeasy Wine Club
SEGHESIO
SELBY
TOPEL
Chalk Hill
RIV
ER
Lancaster Estate
Archipel
Chateau Felice
Vine Tastings
DS
OR
OLD
Bradford Mtn Rochioli
Arista
Porter
Creek Thomas
George
MOSHIN
Copain
Banyon
Gary Farrell
Alexander Valley Vineyards
Hanna
Field Stone
D.
W
HOP
KILN WIN
AL
K HILL
ES
TS
ID
ER
MATRIX
C. Donatiello
Korbel
116
FOPPIANO CHRISTIE Limerick
Lane
ACORN
Meitz CHRISTOPHER
CREEK
RODNEY STRONG
J Wine
MERRIAM
DeNatale
MacPhail
Mill Creek Vineyards De La
ARMIDA Montanya
Russian
River
1
Knights
Valley
White Oak
CH
1
Robert Young
Stryker Sonoma
EXA
ND
Hawkes
E
Jordan R VALLEY
SAUSAL
Stuhlmuller Stonestreet
SIMIAL
Ridge
Nalle
Wilson
Northern
Sonoma
128
MAZZOCCO
LYTTON SPGS
Amista
Deux Amis
GR
OVE
D’Argenzio
RD
.
Cellars
of Sonoma
Sheldon
101
116
F
Sonoma
Coast
Grey Stack
GRA
NGE
Matanzas
Creek
TA
LU
M
AH
ILL
RO
AD
Sable
Ridge
BE
NN
PE
ET
TV
AL
LE
YR
D.
RO
B
LA
RR
D.
PETALUMA VA
Sonoma
Valley
Y
1
LL
E
R
FO
D
RD
.
Tomales
Bay
BOD
EGA
HWY
12
WASHINGTON
Clary Ranch
Travelling around Sonoma County
Travel Time
miles (average) (Peak)
33
17
16
8
45
25
20
15
60
40
30
15
KELLER ESTATE
FRAT
ES
Adobe
Road
Winery
ST
AG
E
GU
LC
H
116
116
101
12
121
LE
VIL
KE
LA
Golden Gate Bridge to Petaluma
Petaluma to santa rosa
Downtown santa rosa to Healdsburg
Healdsburg to Geyserville
Sonoma Valley
Portworks
Corda
.
RD
Kastania
Vineyards
121
Los
R
DAY TRIPS
PREFERRED
Sonoma Wine Country
off Highway 101
7 Wine Tasting Trips
Dry Creek
Westside Road
Eastside Bunch
Alexander Valley
Downtown Healdsburg
Russian River
Petaluma
Index
5
10
16
23
30
37
44
47
Cover Photo courtesy of Rodney Strong Vineyards
Crown Vineyard ©AlanCampbellPhotography2010
A Publication of
669 Broadway, Suite B • Sonoma, CA 95476
P.O. Box 92 • El Verano, CA 95433
707-938-3494 Fax 707-938-3674
PUBLISHER
Mike Giangreco
Direct (707) 938-3734
[email protected]
MAnAGInG EDIToR
Chandra Grant
Phone 707-938-1783 • Fax 707-938-3674
[email protected]
oFFICE MAnAGER
Cathy Gore
Phone 707-938-3494 • Fax 707-938-3674
Email [email protected]
EDIToRIAL
ConTRIBUToRS
Introductions by Abigail Zimmerman
Michelle Baker
Charles Neave
Nan Reiley
Sue Straight, Wine Wench
LooK FoR US on FACEBooK!
35 Tasting Room Reviews from
Geyserville to Petaluma
Acorn Winery
Alderbrook Winery
Armida Winery
Christie Vineyards
Christopher Creek Winery
Clos du Bois
deLorimier Winery
Dry Creek Vineyard
Dutton Estate Winery
Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery
Foppiano Winery
Forchini Vineyards & Winery
Geyser Peak Winery
Hook & Ladder Winery
Hop Kiln Winery
Keller Estate Winery
Kendall-Jackson Healdsburg Tasting Room
Kendall Jackson Wine Center
Martin Ray Winery
Matrix Winery
Merriam Vineyards
Moshin Vineyards
Papapietro Perry
Prohibition – The Speakeasy Wine Club
Rodney Strong Vineyards
Russian Hill Estate
Sausal Winery
Seghesio Vineyards
Selby Winery
Simi Winery
Sonoma Valley Portworks
Suncé Winery
Topel Winery Tasting Room
Truett Hurst
Trentadue
19
11
12
22
18
25
28
7
40
6
21
9
27
39
14
45
32
38
42
13
20
15
5
34
17
43
29
35
36
24
46
41
33
8
26
3
Dry Creek Valley
Dry Creek wine country is one of the smallest enclosed American
Viticultural Areas in the nation, only 16 miles long and two miles
wide. With 9,300 acres of vineyard along this beautiful valley’s
floor, Dry Creek is a “must see” for first-time and veteran wine
lovers. Dry Creek boasts 63 wineries producing a diverse range
of wines from the famed Zinfandel to Bordeaux and even
Mediterranean varietals. Don’t let its small size fool you…
Dry Creek winemakers have been growing grapes and making
great wines for more than 135 years!
Cloverdale
DUT
CHER C
REEK RD
LL
G
ON
GEYSER
PEAK
128
GE
FORCHINI
PAPAPIETRO PERRY
Dry Creek
TRUETT Olive Oil
HURST
AIN
VER
YOA
D.
.
RD
AL.
ER V
XAND
ALE
L
LY
IVER
AN R
.
RD
ILLE AVE.
SERV
G EY
K
REE
R
EK
RE
YC
Dry Creek
E General TON
T
SPRINGS
Store
G
RID
BERT B
AM
RUSSI
SOU
DRY C
R
W. D
PICNIC FARE
Oakville Grocery, 124 matheson street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-3200, www.OakvilleGrocery.com
“Little Country Store” with overflowing shelves and a
deli chock full of handmade, gourmet picnic items,
the Oakville Grocery is an absolute MUST.
Dry Creek General Store, (707) 433-4171
3495 Dry Creek road, Healdsburg
So much more than just a corner store, established in 1881,
this is also a full-service deli and beer garden with live music
occassionally, spectacular views and a wealth of information
on wine tasting, tours and even fishing!
RD
BRID
STEWART’S POINT
Dry Creek Olive Oil, 4791 Dry Creek road, Healdsburg
(707) 431-7200, www.DryCreekOliveCompany.com
Rooted in traditions as rich as the Dry Creek Soil, Dry Creek
Olive Oil Company is your destination for artisan, very fine,
extra-virgin olive oils.
IN
CANY
FERRARI-CARANO
KIM
Lake
Sonoma
Hatchery
Hope Merrill/
Hope Bosworth
House
D
TI R
IAN
WA
TO
COAST
IVER
AN R
101
CH
Lake
Sonoma
D.
I
RUSS
R
TI
AS
THINGS TO DO
Lake Sonoma Hatchery
3333 skaggs springs road, Geyserville
(707) 433-9483, www.parks.sonoma.net
Located in the beautiful coastal foothills of Northern California, Lake Sonoma is surrounded by vineyards and land rich
in history. Here, visitors can observe the operation of the hatchery and see displays which describe the life cycle of the coho
salmon, steelhead and chinook. Open year round.
TO
TO
MENDOCINO
EUREKA
COAST
DRY CREEK
VINEYARD
Not to scale
LODGING
Grape Leaf Inn, 539 Johnson street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-8140, www.grapeleafinn.com
A picturesque Queen Anne Victorian bed and breakfast, the
Grape Leaf Inn seamlessly blends modern decor with timeless
antiques. Gracious staff provide the best hospitality in this relaxing, romantic environment.
Hope Merrill & Hope Bosworth B&B
21253 Geyserville avenue, Geyserville
(707) 857-3356, www.hope-inns.com
Once an early stage-coach stop, these now two strikingly restored Queen Anne Craftsman homes welcome you with open
arms. Truly where wine and romance intertwine!
4
Papapietro Perry Winery
Ben and Yolanda Papapietro and Bruce and Renae Perry
If you like Pinot Noir, a trip to their winery is simply a
are living a wine country dream in Sonoma County’s Dry “must do” on your wine country visit. Where else can you
Creek Valley. They are four good friends who have become find ten, count ’em, ten, single-vineyard-designated Pinot
business partners in a small, very successful winery they Noirs? It’s more than likely that you have never heard of this
created in the late 1990s.
winery and you may have some
Ben Papapietro, a native San
lingering doubts about how good
Papapietro Perry Winery
Franciscan of Italian descent,
the wines are. Never fear. Two of
Open daily from 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
grew up thinking that cooking
America’s top wine publications,
4791 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg
food and drinking wine were synThe Wine Spectator and The
(707) 433-0422 • www.papapietro-perry.com
onymous activities. In his
Wine News, have consistently
exploration of fine wines from
rated the Papapietro Perry wines
Pinot Noir (10), Zinfandel (2)
around the world, Ben soon
in the mid-to-high 90s (based on
and small lot of Chardonnay
honed in on his favorite varietal –
a score of 100 points).
FUN Wine was made in their garages in San Francisco
Pinot Noir. In his work for the San
Ben gets his grapes from RussFACT for 20 years as a hobby before opening a winery.
Francisco Newspaper Agency, he
ian River Valley and Anderson
met Bruce Perry, who shared Ben’s
Valley, two of the most prestigious
love of good wine, and who was to become a fast friend.
growing regions for Pinot Noir. He also pays tribute to the
Ben was already an enthusiastic amateur winemaker when winery’s location in Dry Creek Valley by making two differthe two men had an opportunity to help in a Sonoma County ent Zinfandel wines from this warmer climate location. His
grape harvest for Burt Williams, of the famous Williams- style goal is to present fruit-forward wines that express the
Selyem Pinot Noir winery. Perhaps that experience help to individuality of the vineyards they come from. You have a
propel them into a new career: they decided to take the delicious Pinot Noir and Zinfandel experience waiting for you.
plunge and form their own winery. With wives Yolanda and
The winery has picnic tables and bocce ball courts availRenae handling much of the business end of the winery, able, so you might want to bring a picnic lunch with you.
Papapietro Perry Winery has made its home on a vineyard Or, you can stop at the Dry Creek General Store on the way
and oak-studded hillside in Dry Creek Valley, sharing space and buy sandwiches and other picnic supplies.
with several other small, family-owned wineries.
BY NAN REILEY
5
Ferrari-Carano
Vineyards
& Winery
Now you have two choices when tasting Ferrari-Carano Hospitality Department at (707) 433-6700.
Private wine tastings in the PreVail Room are also availwines – visit Ferrari-Carano Vineyards and Winery in Dry
Creek Valley, or taste the wines in Healdsburg at Ferrari- able by appointment. Each tasting is designed to highlight
Carano’s new Seasons of the Vineyard Tasting Bar & Boutique! the many nuances of wine in a fun and informative style,
Visit the beautiful home of Ferrari-Carano wines, the spec- and include The Matchmaker wine and food pairing,
tacular Italianate hospitality wine center, Villa Fiore, set in Chardonnay Lovers, The King of Reds, The PreVail Tasting
and Scentiments, to name a few.
the midst of the 70-acre Dry Creek
Private tastings are $20 to $35.
Valley estate vineyard. Here you
Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery
To schedule a private tasting,
may taste the critically-acclaimed
Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
call (707) 433-6700 or email
Classic Wines at the Tasting Bar in
[email protected].
the Villa Fiore Wine Shop, or head
8761 Dry Creek Road, Healdsburg, (707) 433-6700
downstairs to sample Limited ReFerrari-Carano’s Seasons of
Seasons of the Vineyard Tasting Bar & Boutique the Vineyard Tasting Bar & Boulease and Reserve Wines in the
Tuesday-sunday 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed mondays
Enoteca located in the undertique, located on the Healdsburg
ground cellar. Stroll five acres of
Plaza, offers visitors hand-picked
113 Plaza Street, Healdsburg, (707) 431-2222
beautiful gardens at your leisure,
wine flights from the Ferrariwww.ferrari-carano.com
and be sure to browse the Wine
Carano and Lazy Creek Vineyards
Shop where you’ll find wine counportfolio of wines. Here, cusFUN Plan extra time for this stop … there’s too
try’s most distinctive gift selections,
tomers may enjoy the easy,
FACT much to see, taste and explore to be rushed!
gourmet gift and wine packs, and
relaxed atmosphere of tasting
of course, the entire portfolio of Ferrari-Carano wines.
wines as well as shopping for unique home décor gifts from
If you’d like an in-depth look at Ferrari-Carano, reserve California’s wine country. Featuring exclusive collections inyour spot for the free winery tour. You will stroll through cluding Sandra Jordan Soft Peruvian Prima Alpaca™ and
renowned gardens, see vineyards up close, perhaps catch one whimsical ceramics by Carlo Marchiori, as well as classic Italof the winemaking team or cellar crew hard at work, view ian ceramics from Vietri, Fortunata and Modigliani,
Don and Rhonda Carano’s personal wine cellar, and visit the decorative table runners and pillows, and other home acEnoteca Lounge and Villa Fiore tasting rooms. After the tour, cessories, visitors will certainly find something to remind
you are invited to taste Ferrari-Carano wines at the Tasting them of their time spent in wine country. If you’re looking
Bar or in the Enoteca Lounge. Winery tours are by appoint- for a venue for a private group tasting, the beautiful Back
ment, Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. To schedule your Room is perfect for up to 30 people. Your tasting may be
tour, email [email protected], or call the customized to include chocolates, cheeses or small bites.
6 Dry Creek Valley
Dave Stare, Don & Kim Wallace
Dry Creek Vineyard
When you drive through beautiful Dry Creek Valley in standing Fumé Blanc and Chenin Blanc (the only wine whose
northern Sonoma County, you will see that the entire valley grapes come from outside Sonoma County), Dry Creek now
floor is covered with vineyards. It’s quite obvious what the makes many other varieties, including excellent Chardonnay,
economy here is all about! But if you were passing through in Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel as well as a few
1972, you’d have found a few prune orchards and not much single-vineyard-designated wines. Many of these wines are
else in the way of agriculture. One man changed all that – available only at the tasting room, so treat yourself to a visit
well, at least he started the wave of
to the pioneer winery of Dry
change in the valley to wine-grape
Creek Valley.
Dry Creek Vineyard
growing.
The path to the winery’s tastOpen daily 10:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
Dave Stare, founder of Dry
ing
room meanders through
3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg
Creek Vineyard, can be charactershady
lawns dotted with picnic
(707) 433-1000 • www.drycreekvineyard.com
ized as a man of tenacity and
tables. After 35 years, the winery’s
Chenin Blanc, Fumé Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc,
vision, unafraid to experiment to
stone walls are covered with soft
Chardonnay, Petite Zin Rosé, Zinfandel,
create a new future. A lover of
moss and clinging vines, stately
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Loire Valley French wines, Dave’s
and serene. Inside the tasting
vision was to make excellent Fumé
room, you’ll see many photos and
FUN Check the website for a downloadable
Blanc (Sauvignon Blanc) and
illustrations of sailing boats, and
FACT two-for-one tasting coupon.
Chenin Blanc in Loire Valley style
sailing boats are the primary
in California. His new winery, Dry Creek Vineyard, was the illustration on the winery’s labels, reflecting a life-long passion
first to be built in the valley since the era of Prohibition. He for sailing shared now by three generations of Stares and Walhad no one else’s expertise or experience to draw on, and laces. You might also notice glamorous photos of Kim Wallace
many predicted that he would fail, but failure was not in Dave in the company of blockbuster movie stars, because for the
Stare’s makeup. His young daughter Kim was with him to past 10 years, Dry Creek Vineyard has been the official wine
help turn over the first shovel of dirt for the winery’s foun- poured at the annual red-carpet Screen Actors’ Guild award
dation, and she is still side-by-side with her father as she and ceremonies.
husband Don Wallace have become the second generation of
Do-not-miss wines include the highly acclaimed 2008
the family to carry on the tradition of fine wines made from Fumé Blanc and the delicious 2006 Somers Ranch ZinfanSonoma County grapes.
del. Chilled wines are available for your after-tasting picnic on
Although the winery’s flagship wines are still the out- the lawn.
BY NAN REILEY
Dry Creek Valley
7
Truett Hurst Winery
Nestled in the heart of Dry Creek Valley is a very special of the wine come into a perfect state of balance. Their style
estate called Truett Hurst. As you drive in, the permanent … big, bold, textured wines with lots of jammy fruit and
sheep and goat pasture, complete with an under the road tun- spice.
nel, are the first indication that this is not your average winery.
You can savor these wines in one of the most comfortable
The vineyards, flanked by little habitat islands for birds and and relaxing wineries in the valley. You have a choice of
beneficial insects, contain lots of
Adirondack chairs down by the
occupied bluebird and owl boxes.
creek where you may be lucky
Truett Hurst Winery
Maintaining biodiversity and habienough to see Steelhead or Coho
Open
Daily
10
a.m.
to
5
p.m.
tat are part of the philosophy
salmon. If you prefer, you can
underlying Biodynamic® farming,
hang out on the patio and listen to
which they adhere to. The orchard,
music while viewing the sublime
(707) 433-9545 • www.truetthurst.com
featuring beautiful 60-year-old
scenery of Dry Creek. You may
Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and a few other treats.
olive trees, the four-acre chef’s
want to enjoy a picnic or a slow
garden and pristine creekside land
lunch in the olive grove. If this is
FUN A 60-year-old olive grove, 4-acre chef’s garden
all contribute to both the aesthetic
not enough, you can be served by
and
a
beautifu
Dry
Creek
(which
is
never
dry)
FACT
are all part of the estate.
and biodiversity of the estate.
the friendly wine pourers who will
Their commitment to responsimake you feel right at home in
ble stewardship of this property is matched by the passion their inviting tasting room. Most Saturdays they have live
with which they handcraft award-winning Zinfandel and music from some of the finest local musicians who deliver
Petite Sirah wines.
everything from a jazzy-swing vibe, to a third-world grove to
The wines are made by fermenting grapes in small, open Americana to some of your favorite classic tunes from the ’50s,
top stainless steel fermentors. The grapes are punched down ’60s and ’70s. There may even be something from the grill to
during fermentation, rather than pumped, to minimize shear- munch on while you take in the whole experience.
ing of the skins and seeds. This allows for gentle extraction of
The tasting room is open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.
color and flavor components, while avoiding extraction of Tell them in the tasting room that Luci the black goat sent
bitter tannins. The wines are then barrel aged in approxi- you and you can taste the special Zinfandel that’s named
mately 30% new French oak, until the flavors and structure after her.
8 Dry Creek Valley
Forchini Vineyards has been growing premium varietal
Just north of Healdsburg, a few miles out Dry Creek
Road is a very special place, where you’ll feel like part of wine grapes since 1971. There are two properties – the
the family. Turn at the Bacchus sign, drive up the narrow, Dry Creek Bench (where the winery and tasting room are
winding, rosemary-edged driveway and you’ve arrived at located) is comprised of 67 acres and is planted to CaberForchini Vineyards & Winery. You’ll be greeted by at least net Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Carignane, Petit Verdot
two happy, tail-wagging dogs, which will escort you to the and Zinfandel, with 13 acres of 100-year-old Zinfandel remaining. The Russian River
tasting room.
Terrace is comprised of 24 acres
and is planted to Chardonnay,
is a family-run winery that proOpen Friday-sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. or by appointment
Pinot Grigio, Pinot Noir and
duces only estate grown and
Zinfandel, with four acres of 90bottled wines. Owned by Jim and
(707) 431-8886 • www.forchini.com
year-old Zinfandel remaining.
Anita Forchini, Jim is the wineThe winery was built in 1996
maker, Andrew Forchini is the
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,
and produces 3000 cases per
vineyard manager, Michael and
Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel
year.
Carla Forchini lend a hand with
FUN Bring a lunch to compliment your tasting and
Let’s talk about the wines – I
marketing, special events and tastFACT be surrounded by the beautiful vineyards, rose
tasted two wines during my visit
ing room. You can’t get more
gardens, Italian fountains and exceptional views. and they were both excellent!
family-operated than that!
The 2007 Pinot Noir, PropriThe building, surrounding
picnic area and vineyards look as if they are right out of an etor’s Reserve is a classic, with aromas and flavors of black
Italian landscape – stucco walls, tile roofs, splashing foun- cherry, strawberry, baking spices and vanilla, all wrapped
tains, flower gardens and vineyard-striped hills delight the up in a silky-smooth mouthfeel. The 2006 Old Vine Zinsenses. Just wait until you taste the wines – then your fandel, Proprietor’s Reserve is also wonderful, with
abundant blackberry, raspberry, bramble and peppery
senses will be delighted even further!
Once inside the main building, you feel as if you are in spice aromas and flavors. It is big and bold in the mouth
someone’s comfortable home. There is a large dining room, and almost too easy to drink!
You really should visit this beautiful, comfortable,
with a table ready to serve eight, a fully appointed kitchen,
an office and the tasting room, which is decorated in warm delicious winery! The tasting room is open 11 a.m. 4 p.m.
tones, with faux-painted walls, wood flooring and a gran- Friday – Sunday and by appointment. For more inforite-topped oak bar. Behind the bar, a portrait of Bacchus, mation, call (707) 431-8886 or visit their website at
www.forchini.com. BY SUE STRAIGHT, THE WINE WENCH
the god of wine, is the central focus of the tasting room.
Dry Creek Valley
9
R
VE
RI
KR
D.
Dragonfly
SHOFFEITT’S
Off the Square
128
EY
NL
KI
Madrona
Manor
MAGNOLIA
ALDERBROOK
ARMIDA
K HILL RD.
CHAL
EE
101
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THINGS TO DO
Shoffeitt’s off the Square
208 Healdsburg avenue, Healdsburg
(707) 433-5556 • www.shoffeittsoffthesqure.com
This is a shopping mecca of antiques, collectibles, local arts and
gifts, as well as fine & custom jewelry. “Don’t judge a book by
it’s cover” ... the building goes on forever!
Dragonfly, 425 Westside road, Healdsburg
(707) 433-3739, www.dragonflyfloral.com
By appointment only, this is a unique botany and flowerlover's destination. They can custom pick and arrange flowers.
Wohler Bridge, 9765 Wohler road, Forestville
A true Sonoma County landmark, Wohler Bridge is one of the
few old-old-OLD bridges left in California. This steel truss
bridge crosses the Russian River at quite a beautiful spot, too.
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Westside road is, quite literally, one of the most recommended
routes to take for wine tasting in this russian river valley ava.
Westside road is slow and winding, filled with redwood trees,
heritage oaks with moss beards and famous vineyards. should
you wish to slow down and experience wine country up-closeand-personal, Westside road is your road.
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LODGING
Madrona Manor, 1001 Westside road, Healdsburg
1-800-258-4003, www.madronamanor.com
A world-class destination for guests seeking gracious service
and luxurious accommodations in the heart of wine country.
Oh yes... "Rated #1 in Napa & Sonoma"
by Travel & Leisure... Need we say more?
Farmhouse Inn, 7871 river road, Forestville
(707) 887-3300, www. Farmhouseinn.com
Representing the finest level of Sonoma inns, restaurants and
Spas, sublime guestrooms, farm-fresh food, and seasonal body
treatments come together for one unforgettable experience.
Farmhouse
Inn
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Not to scale
DINING
Farmhouse Inn Restaurant, 7871 river road, Forestville
(707) 887-3300, www.farmhouseinn.com
Tucked into one of the smallest, lovely towns in wine country,
the Farmhouse Inn boasts an exquisite restaurant. Each plate
by Chef Litke tells the story of Sonoma's diverse agriculture
and artisan producers.
10
Westside Road
Alderbrook Winery
The scene is the corner of Westside Road and Kinley fandel from several different vineyards in Dry Creek, plus esDrive in Healdsburg, on the edge of Dry Creek Valley. An tate and old vine fruit. Parker uses just 25-30% new French
array of red-colored flags line the southwest corner, marking oak, saying “I don’t want the oak flavors dominating the prothe spot where some of Sonoma County’s best Zinfandel is files. By keeping all the things the same for the most part, I
want the vineyard site to show through.”
flowing.
If you are tracking your wine buying more closely in this
The spot is Alderbrook Winery, a family-owned venture
soft economy, the quality to price
that has been flying its welcome
ratio at Alderbrook is sky high.
flags at this well-traveled corner for
Alderbrook Winery
Factor in the savings after you
many years.
Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
leap into the Alderbrook wine
Alderbrook is something of a
2306 Magnolia Drive, Healdsburg
club (with 20% off wine shipnirvana for Zinfanatics who want as
ments and a staggering 30% off
many different Zins as there are
(707) 433-9154
when you reorder in the first 45
days in the week. Alderbrook offers
www.alderbrook.com
days after your club shipment ara selection of five vineyard-desigCarignane, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Zin Port
rives), and you’re covered for
nated Zinfandels, each with its own
everyday wines at less than $15 a
personality. For the seventh day,
FUN Alderbrook Tasting Room carries delicious
bottle as well as highly-rated
Alderbrook has a snazzy Zin/Syrah
FACT picnic goodies as well as elegant gift items.
weekend or special occasion
blend called “Confluence,” and for
wines for about $20 to $25 per
dessert, a Zin Port.
All of the Alderbrook Zins come from Dry Creek Valley, bottle. These winery-exclusive wines are available in the tastwhich has a history of growing and producing Zinfandel that ing room and through the wine club only.
Alderbrook has a fantastic porch out front or a verdant
is 135 years long. Many of the earliest immigrants to Sonoma
County who settled in Dry Creek Valley after the Gold Rush lawn out back with picnic tables and umbrellas where you
brought with them grapevine cuttings, including Zinfandel. can enjoy a picnic and a bottle of one of Alderbrook’s Zins.
Most of the oldest vines in Dry Creek Valley are Zinfandel, If you don’t want to lug around your own picnic all mornand some are as much as 125 years old. In fact, driving ing, check out the tasting room’s supply of lunch munchies:
through Dry Creek Valley you can see some of these old prosciutto and other deli meats, a selection of cheeses and
vines, easily distinguishable for their appearance as bushy crackers, and an assortment of dips. After your picnic, don’t
miss the fabulous array of housewares and unique wine gifts
shrubs in the summer and barren stumps in the winter.
Winemaker Bryan Parker, now heading into his seventh to take home as mementos of your wine country vacation.
BY MICHELLE J. BAKER
harvest at Alderbrook, has the luxury of working with Zin-
Westside Road
11
Armida Winery
“Wines to remember in a place you’ll never forget…” ies. A full-sized wooden Indian gazes solemnly at visitors as
That’s how the folks at Armida Winery describe what they’re they sip, swirl and shop. Against the back wall, a glass-fronted
all about. I must agree – I’ve been a fan for years. Armida refrigerator is well stocked with cheeses, hummus and other
Winery is definitely an unforgettable place!
picnic fare. This is a really great place to have a picnic!
Located not far from Healdsburg on Westside Road,
Armida Winery is a popular stop along the wine road, beArmida Winery sits atop a vineyard-striped knoll. Wind your cause the tasting room is unique, the views are stunning,
way up the driveway and you are
these folks really know how to
in for a real treat! To start with, the
show visitors a good time and the
Armida Winery
views from the oak-shaded
wines ROCK! Let’s talk about the
deck/picnic area and bocce court
wines – I just had to taste the
2201Westside Road, Healdsburg
are unforgettable – the Russian
2008 PoiZin “The wine to die
(707) 433-2222
River Valley unfolds before your
for.” It is a classic Zinfandel,
www.armidawinery.com
eyes in a glorious patchwork of
loaded with aromas and flavors of
vineyards, trees and hills. The winripe blackberry, plum, caramel
Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Chardonnay, Barbera,
ery itself is a geodesic dome, the
and peppery spice, with a big,
Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, PoiZin
practical reason, according to
rich mouthfeel and long, juicy
FUN Take advantage of the bocce courts overlooking finish. The bottle is really cool,
Buckminster Fuller, would be that
FACT rosebeds, ponds, vineyards and the valley below. too – it’s black, with a red skull“The sphere uses the ‘doing more
Bring a picnic and enjoy it with Armida wines.
with less’ principle in that it enand-crossbones label. I also tasted
closes the largest volume of interior
their 2006 Durrell Vineyard Pinot
space with the least amount of surface area, thus saving on Noir, which was another delicious, varietally correct wine.
materials and cost.” The Armida reason is “’cause it looks The nose drew me in, with hints of rose, violet, cherry and
cool.”
baking spices. These aromas continued as flavors in the ohThe tasting room is light, bright and airy feeling, with an so-silky mouth and on through the finish. Yum!
octagonal shaped wooden bar that is staffed by friendly and
Be sure to visit this unforgettable place and tell them The
knowledgeable servers. PoiZin (Armida’s signature Zinfandel) Wine Wench sent you!
is everywhere in the artfully merchandised tasting room –
Armida Winery is located on Westside Road, just outside
casket-shaped cases and numerous displays offer a wide array of Healdsburg. Check them out on Facebook or Twitter.
of PoiZin T-shirts, sweatshirts, hats and other non-wine goodBY SUE STRAIGHT, THE WINE WENCH
12
Westside Road
Matrix Winery
Ken and Diane Wilson, the prolific proprietors of Matrix Combining the talents of winemakers Diane Wilson and AnWinery and other premier Sonoma wineries, founded Matrix toine Favero, Matrix wines have the chance to experience that
Winery so they could expand their well-documented passion balance.
But of course you must taste those wines to fully underfor Stuhlmuller Reserve Chardonnay, two different Zinfandels (Russian River and Dry Creek), Pinot Noir (five of them), stand. Matrix is one of those wineries that makes Sonoma
and the classic Matrix Bordeaux Blend, Dry Creek Valley. The County so special and, at the same time, delightfully surprising. Set at the top of a rise
grapes they source come from the
perhaps a hundred yards from
winery’s estate vineyards on the
Matrix Winery
one of the county’s most scenic
western edge of the Dry Creek ValOpen daily 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
wine trails, Westside Road, about
ley, often mountainous land that
ten or maybe 15 minutes from
produces grapes with intense yet
my favorite town of Healdsburg,
balanced fruit.
(707) 433-1911 • www.matrixwinery.com
it is a discovery, a find, a little
The Wilson family – and this is
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,
treasure you simultaneously want
very much a family operation –
Bordeaux Blend, Zinfandel
to share as much as you want to
owns a total of 280 acres of planted
keep it all to yourself.
vineyards and are committed to
In the tasting room itself –
sustainable farming, which they FUN At Matrix, guests have been seen hula hooping,
a building that might best be
believe adds significantly to the FACT blowing bubbles, picnicking, even picking fruit!
described as designed in the very
wines that bear their labels.
The Wilsons started planting grapes in Sonoma almost stylish barn style (a compliment; this is an agricultural area
three decades ago and the vineyards, as they are today, are after all) – the panoramic views encompass hills and vines to
both unexpected and diverse. This diversity offers the wine- the right, a pond and more hills and trees below the sweepmakers of Matrix the ability to hand-select grapes from estate ing terrace in the front, and off to the left the famed wine
vineyards, and not just vineyard block by vineyard block, but region known as the Russian River Valley.
Tastings – whether inside at the bar with the wall of winsometimes even row by row. For a winemaker committed to
dows behind or out on the terrace beneath the brightly
quality, this is the ultimate gift.
As they say at the winery “Passion and excellence are in- colored umbrellas – are fun, informal and informative. Ask
tertwined and essential for any winery dedicated to producing about the hula-hoops. They may have nothing to do with the
premium quality wines.” And, by the way, these are wines that art of making fine wine, but they are another small expression
continually, consistently and deservedly won medals in virtu- of what makes a visit to this winery so unique.
BY CHARLES NEAVE
ally every wine competition in which they are entered.
Westside Road
13
Robert Janover
Hop Kiln Winery
In the words of the very nice people at Hop Kiln Winery, Competition. With a very limited production, most of the
it is all about “Honoring the past, and handcrafting the fu- wines are sold at the winery or through their very popular
ture.” When you start with a 250-acre piece of prime wine clubs, including the new HKG Collection with its long
property located within Sweetwater Springs Historic lists of benefits and access to some spectacular bottlings,
District, add a structure that dates back to 1905 (California many of them in very limited production.
You may also enjoy the Hop Kiln Chardonnay,
Historic Landmark # 893), and then you have it positioned
Sauvignon Blanc, the pleasantly
in Sonoma County’s fabled
fruity Thousand Flowers or the
Russian River Valley, well, you
Hop Kiln Winery
versatile Rosa Bellissima. Or for
pretty much have it all.
the reds: an aromatic Grenache,
The ranch property became a
the rare full-bodied Malbec, an
viticultural mecca in 1975, when
aptly-named Big Red or the
grapes, not hops (as in beer, the
(707) 433-6491
Syrah/Grenache blend fancifully
original crop that was mainly
hopkilnwinery.com
called Rushin’ River Red. All
shipped to the brewmasters of
HKG Pinot Noir and Chardonnay
of them at an exceptionally
Washington State) became the
Hop Kiln Thousand Flowers, Big Red and Malbec
reasonable price.
crop and the original kilns beOne treat is to buy a bottle
came working space for a winery
FUN Hop Kiln also features mustards, oils, vinegars,
of
a favorite, get some artisan
and a comfortable, casual tasting
FACT pestos, vinaigrettes and dessert sauces.
cheese and meat from the deli
room. An enlargement of the tastcase, a loaf of bread (they
ing bar, to be unveiled this
supply glasses, cutting board and knife) and sit outside by
spring, will provide an exciting personalized experience.
Every weekend throughout the year there are up to 60 the pond. You can watch the waterfowl land, look out over
of their award-winning gourmet products to sample, from the property and relax. Be sure to bring your camera to
a staggering array of locally made mustards to grapeseed capture the three drying towers, silhouetted against the sky,
oil, chocolate wine truffles, pesto sauces and more … every the fragrant beauties in the rose garden and the miniature
replica of the winery floating in the pond serving as a duck
one of them first-rate.
But of course you go there first for the wines produced rest.
It is the perfect way to spend a leisurely afternoon, and
from Hop Kiln’s prime real estate under the HKG label. Both
unfiltered, there is the complex Sonoma Chardonnay and a think about how things have changed over the last century
delicious, classic Russian River Valley Pinot Noir that recently at this historic property, and all for the better, year after
BY CHARLES NEAVE
took a “Gold” medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine year.
14
Westside Road
Moshin Vineyards
Wineries have been present here since the early 1800s local artists. Exhibits change frequently and can feature
and are almost without exception unpretentious in ap- anything from oils to photographs to a quilt collection.
Rick’s wines are the best reason to visit Moshin Vinepearance and serious about good winemaking. A perfect
example of this is Moshin Vineyards on Westside Road. yards. The new winery saw its first harvest and crush in
This winery is the dream come true of Rick Moshin, a for- 2005, and Rick is now making Pinot Noir, Chardonnay,
mer professor of mathematics at San Jose State University. Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, Merlot and Petite Sirah as well
as a proprietary red wine called
He fell in love with the valley
Promoshin and a white dessert
more than 20 years ago and, with
Moshin Vineyards
wine called Moshin Poshin No.
the help of his family, managed to
Open 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. • Tours by appointment
7, names that tell you Rick has
buy a 10-acre Pinot Noir vinefun making fine wines. One of
yard. The years he spent teaching
the most fascinating parts of
in San Jose and making wine 120
(707) 433-5499 • www.moshinvineyards.com
your tasting experience at
miles to the north kept Rick movPinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc,
Moshin will be to taste his Pinot
ing like a “train going downhill
Merlot, Petite Sirah and Zinfandel
Noir wines from different rewith no brakes” according to his
gions in Sonoma County. This
sister Janet, who is a co-propriprovides a dramatic example of
etor of the winery.
how soil and climate differences
But those days are over now:
can change the character of a
Rick purchased a five-acre propwine, but all are delicious. Anerty in 2000 and here has built
other star is Rick’s 2007 Russian
his own wine production facility,
River Valley Chardonnay, a silky,
a four-tier gravity flow system
FUN Schedule a tour of the winery and see
luscious wine with notes of pear
that enables him to make his
FACT how Rick’s gravity-flow system works!
and apple and a rich caramel
wines with gentle handling and
aroma that comes from barrel
minimal intervention. In keeping
with the local tradition of living in harmony with the land, aging in French oak.
The tasting room staff is welcoming and knows almost
Rick constructed his tasting room using 100-year-old barn
wood for its facing and a countertop for the bar made from everything about the secluded area – where to stay, where
a fallen black walnut tree. The tasting room is a small, to eat and how to get from here to there. You can schedule
cheerful room with a flooring of glazed tile squares and a tour of the winery, too, to see how Rick's gravity-flow
BY NAN REILEY
white walls that are covered with art work (for sale) by system works.
Westside Road
15
Eastside Bunch
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Giorgi’s
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THINGS TO DO
Powell’s Sweet Shoppe
322 Center st., Healdsburg
(707) 431-2784, www.powelsss.com
Remember yesterday, today! An old time, old fashioned candy,
ice cream and sweets shop sure to delight your child within!
This is the first shop for Powell's now beloved franchise.
Riverfront Regional Park
7821 eastside rd, Healdsburg, (707) 565-2041
Once an old quarry, Riverfront Regional Park is now home to
two sparkling lakes perfect for swimming and non-motorized
boating...or hike a trail through serene redwood groves!
11455 Old redwood Highway, Healdsburg
1-800-678-4763, www.rodneystrong.com
Join visitors and locals alike on the lawn outside Rodney
Strong Vineyards for warm summer evenings, good food,
great wine, and a variety of musical guests. Look for the
summer 2010 line-up in May!
Russian River Valley Produce
400 Grapevine lane, Healdsburg, (707) 433-7933
A four-acre, family-owned ranch, Russian River Valley Produce
farms top-notch vegetables, fruits, herbs and flowers sure to
brighten any palate and table. Excellent farm tours
by appointment. The best of California farming!
YC
DR
The "eastside Bunch" (as they call themselves) are eight topflight wineries located close together along the eastern stretch
of the russian river in sonoma County. specializing in Pinots,
cool-climate syrahs, and that famous Zinfandel, the eastside
Bunch represents some of the finest winemaking and culinary
talents in all of Northern California. Don't miss the annual
summer Fest open house for a kick-butt good time!
BLVD
Not to scale
FOOD
Giorgi’s Restaurant
25 Grant street, Healdsburg, (707) 433-1106
Great family-style Italian restaurant…pasta and hand-thrown
pizzas. Has a full bar, open late and food available to go.
Gilardi's Delicatessen
810 Den Beste, Windsor, (707) 838-9869
Certainly a vine above the rest! Feast on homemade lasagna
and freshly baked sourdough garlic breads.
LODGING
Country Garden Inn, Healdsburg
(707) 431-8630, www.hcountrygardens.com
Three fully-equipped, affordable vacation homes located
on a 25-acre wine country estate boasting spectacular gardens.
Located just 1½ miles from charming downtown Healdsburg.
16
Eastside Bunch
These days, the tasting room is still very busy. Tours are ofRodney Strong Vineyards is an historical, architectural
treasure of a winery, located just south of Healdsburg. Built in fered by appointment and a variety of wines is available for
1970, the winery building is somewhat pyramid shaped and tasting. Tasting fees are either $10 or $15, depending on the
wines. The room is bright and airy, the staff is cheerful and inwas constructed as a tribute to beauty and efficiency.
The front entrance to the winery is a treat for the senses; formative and a tasteful selection of wine-related gifts is
a fountain burbles merrily at the base of the steps, the air is artfully displayed around the room. The atmosphere is one of
understated elegance, with a
scented with roses and jasmine
splash of education thrown in for
from planters lining the walkway,
good measure.
and the building is just so danged
Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Rodney Strong Vineyards concool.
tinues
to evolve over the years.
I will always have a soft spot in
11455 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg
One development is what proprimy heart for Rodney Strong Vine1-800-678-4763 • www.rodneystrong.com
etor Tom Klein calls “a winery
yards because the wines are always
Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon,
within a winery.” Rodney Strong
wonderful, Rodney Strong was a
Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel and Port
Vineyards has always owned exwine industry pioneer, as well as
cellent vineyards. Now the focus
being a scholar and a gentleman,
FUN Look for the huge rebate check from PG&E for
is on site-specific vineyards and
and well, I started my career there
FACT $2,164,403.00 for the installation of the largest making small lots of vineyardmore than 28 years ago. Geez –
solar electric system ever realized by a winery.
designated wines that reflect their
that’s a long time!
own unique terroir.
Things have certainly changed
This season, Rodney Strong Vineyards and Omega Events
over the past 27 years. When I started my wine industry career at Rodney Strong Vineyards, the winery was under present the 20th Annual Summer Concert Series. Enjoy
different ownership and called Sonoma Vineyards. Windsor breathtaking views, wine tasting and sizzling jazz! SurVineyards shared the space. Back then, the tasting room was rounded by acres of beautiful vineyards, guests will be treated
set up with several small tables and the apron-clad staff (my- to some of the top performers in contemporary music while
self included) ran around the busy room, pouring a generous picnicking at the winery’s intimate concert venue, The Green.
The Collectors Circle, Rodney Strong Vineyards’ wine
selection of wines from both wineries. Sonoma Vineyards
specialized in estate grown, vineyard designated wines and club, has more than 2000 happy members that receive quarWindsor Vineyards (which also featured estate grown, vine- terly wine shipments and discounts on wines and events.
yard designated wines) specialized in wines with personalized Club members also enjoy special receptions at the summer
concert series.
BY SUE STRAIGHT, THE WINE WENCH
labels.
Eastside Bunch
17
Christopher Creek Winery
Charming. It’s a good word – almost the perfect word – to cultural practices they employ and the quality of the grapes.
“The best wines in the world are made in the vineyard,”
use when you describe Christopher Creek Winery.
says Crowell. “The main job of
The winery is owned by the
the winemaker is to take care of
Wasserman family who, in addiChristopher Creek Winery
the grapes and protect what
tion to their grape growing and
Mother Nature has given. That’s
winemaking venture, have a long
641 Limerick Lane, Healdsburg
our philosophy... and the proof is
history of farming in California’s
(707) 433-2001 • www.christophercreek.com
in the bottle.”
Central Valley where they have
To taste their superb wines,
farmed oranges for the past 37
Syrah, Petite Sirah, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Port,
head
to the tasting room. Christoyears. They adamantly believe that
Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Viognier
pher Creek is comfortable – even
that growing the highest quality
Cellar Club: 3 shipments/year, choice of wines, 20% off cozy – and indisputably rustic. As
grapes possible must be the main
a result, it’s sometimes tough to
focus if you want to produce truly
FUN 2006 Estate Bottled Reserve Petite Sirah has
tell where the tasting room ends
great wines.
FACT received Best of Class twice and Double Gold
and the serious business that conThey, and their winemaker,
Todd Crowell – a Texas native and graduate of Texas A&M – stitutes a working winery begins … which merely adds to the
BY CHARLES NEAVE
understand and appreciate the fine balance between the agri- charm.
Recent Winery Awards
TASTERS GUILD WINE COMPETITIONS
• 2006 Dry Creek Finlay's vineyard Cabernet sauvignon – DOUBle GOlD
(all JUDGes vOTeD GOlD)
• 2007 russian river estate Bottled reserve Petite sirah – GOlD
• 2007 russian river Catie's Corner viognier – GOlD
• 2007 Dry Creek Zinfandel – GOlD
• 2006 russian river Zinfandel – GOlD
• 2006 russian river estate Bottled reserve Petite sirah – DOUBle GOlD
• 2005 Dry Creek Finlay's vineyard Cabernet sauvignon – GOlD
PACIFIC RIM WINE COMPETITIONS
• 2006 russian river estate Bottled reserve Petite sirah – BesT OF Class
18
Eastside Bunch
RIVERSIDE INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITIONS
• 2007 russian river estate Bottled reserve Petite sirah – Chairman’s award
• 2006 russian river estate Bottled reserve syrah – GOlD
SONOMA COUNTY HARVEST FAIR
• 2006 russian river estate Bottled syrah – GOlD
• 2007 russian river Catie's Corner viognier – GOlD
NEW WORLD INTERNATIONAL WINE COMPETITIONS
• 2005 russian river estate Bottled syrah – BesT OF Class
These wines are all available for purchase.
Bill & Betsy Nachbaur
Acorn Winery
“Estate-grown, sustainably-farmed, field-blended – do not miss a visit to this jewel of a winery!
“Alegria” is the vineyard name at Acorn – the Spanish
wines” is the slogan at Acorn Winery. In my humble
opinion, they should also add unpretentious, friendly, translation is “happiness,” and the name “Acorn” comes
educational and delicious to their descriptive notes. This from the majestic oak trees on the property – meaning
small, family-owned and operated winery produces from small beginnings comes mighty results. I must tell
some excellent wines. And they are really nice folks, too! you from personal experience, the wines are mighty fine at
Acorn! I had the pleasure of tastLocated just south of Healdsing a few wines during my visit.
burg on Old Redwood Highway,
Acorn Winery
They were all excellent, but my
Acorn Winery is easy to find.
Hours are by appointment only, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
particular favorites were:
Turn onto the driveway and
allow an hour for your visit to acornWinery.
2006 Sangiovese,
wend your way past a few
Alegria Vineyards $26
houses, through some well-kept
12040 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg
This is the best California Sanvineyards and you’ve arrived at
(707) 433-6440 • www.acornwinery.com
giovese I have ever tasted (and
a very special place. Really.
Sangiovese, Zinfandel, Syrah,
I’ve tasted a bunch.)! Aromas
Acorn Winery’s owners (and
Cabernet Franc, Dolcetto, Rosato
of red cherry, strawberry,
founders), Bill and Betsy NachWines are all field blends from estate-grown grapes.
vanilla, spices and a hint of
baur truly enjoy sharing their
fresh green herbs meld seamwines and educating people
FUN They grow 40+ different varieties of grapes.
lessly and continue as flavors
about the vineyards and the
FACT Grapes have been grown here since the 1880s.
in the bright, juicy mouth.
fruits of their labors. You’ll need
This wine has a long, delicious
to call to make an appointment –
no crowded, bustling tasting bar here, folks! A visit with finish and is entirely too easy to drink.
them is an up-close, personal experience that you won’t 2006 Zinfandel, Heritage Vines,™ Alegria Vineyards $35
soon forget. In fact, if you visit at harvest time, Bill or Betsy Wow! Aromas and flavors of raspberries, blackberries,
will take you out in the vineyard, put a refractometer caramel, chocolate and peppery spice delight from the
(sugar meter) in your hand, have you check sugar levels first sniff, all the way through the finish. Yum!
and create your own field-blend. Talk about hands-on!
For a truly unique, personalized, delicious winery exThe tasting bar is a barrel in the winery. Period. No gift perience, be sure to make an appointment to visit Bill and
shop, no restaurant and no self-guided tour – this place is Betsy at Acorn. Call (707) 433-6440 or visit the website at
all about function – wine grape growing and crafting ex- www.acornwinery.com.
cellent wines is the focus here. That said, take it from me
Eastside Bunch
19
Merriam Vineyards
One of Russian River Valley’s newest wineries, Merriam Vine- cels at, Merlot may be the wine she is best known for, so the Meryards is perched on a knoll at the far eastern edge of the valley, so riam portfolio is a great match for her talents. Merlot from
far to the east that it actually backs up to the Chalk Hill appella- Windacre Vineyard, for instance, has great depth and balance,
tion. And that’s a good thing, because it means that the climate with rich dark fruit flavors and smooth tannins.
Merriam’s 2005 Miktos (from the Greek, meaning to blend
here is warm enough to produce richly ripe Bordeaux varieties –
well together), a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc.
Franc and Petit Verdot, is a huge
Winery owners Peter and Diana
wine with plum and cassis flavors
Merriam are both New Englanders
Merriam Vineyards
and powerful but tamed tannins.
transplanted to California. Their
For the white wine lover, Merhoneymoon in France led to a life11650 Los Amigos Road, Healdsburg
riam offers a Chardonnay from the
time love of fine wines, and Peter’s
(707) 433-4032 • www.merriamvineyards.com
Simoneau Ranch vineyard in
career as a wine retailer in New EngAlexander Valley. Fermented in
land reinforced their knowledge of
Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
French oak barrels, it is aged for 10
and love for Bordeaux wines. As is
Cabernet Franc, Bordeaux Blend
months in the barrel with a regular
often the case, their interest in wine
stirring (sur lies) regime for a silky,
led them to purchase vineyard propFUN Cheese and wine pairings by appointment.
creamy mouthfeel. Its sweet fruit
erty in 2000, in this case an 11-acre
FACT $20 per person.
shines through with pineapple
parcel called Windacre Vineyard, the
flavors and a toasty, nutty character from the oak.
soils of which are uniquely suited to these Bordeaux varitals.
The Stainless Steel Chardonnay was just released. It is from
The second 12-acre vineyard property was purchased in
2002, winery construction followed in 2007, and the tasting the same vineyard, Simoneau Ranch, made from five different
room was opened just this past year. The exteriors of both build- fruit clones – it tastes like a tropical vacation!
Because of the very limited production of Merriam wines, they
ings are reminiscent of a New England farmhouse, a tip of the
are available mostly at the tasting room, in local restaurants or to
hat to Peter and Diana’s origins.
And the presence of one huge, stately palm tree gives a nod to wine club members. Thanks to Peter’s New England wine sales
California and the generous warmth of this location. Magnificent career, you can find limited distribution in some New England
views to the west show off the rolling hills and vineyards of the states. But why not just enjoy a beautiful day in Sonoma County
Russian River Valley proper. A terrace dotted with tables and and visit the winery? The tasting room plans to offer gourmet picnic lunch items like paté, cheese, crackers, tapenades, salami and
chairs invites visitors to linger, taste wine and take in the view.
The well-respected veteran winemaker Margaret Davenport cookies, so you can enjoy a snack on the terrace with your fais now crafting the Merriam offerings. Of all the varietals she ex- vorite Merriam wine.
BY NAN REILEY
20 Eastside Bunch
Foppiano Vineyards
Through its 113 years of winemaking history in the Russ- the way for the sixth generation by bringing on top wineian River Valley of northern Sonoma County, the Foppiano making and management talent. “We’re updating our estate
family has played a significant role in the making of the vineyards, which are located in one of the most prestigious
American wine industry story. As Sonoma County’s wine regions in the world. What’s more, our new winemaker
oldest family-owned winery, Foppiano Vineyards represents Natalie West, who joined our team during veraison in
an authentic family tradition, which is not only rich with 2008, has added key pieces of new equipment that enable
history but also confirms the value
gentle handling of fruit at harof perseverance and commitment.
vest. This, combined with our
Foppiano Vineyards
The winery was founded in
commitment to quality ensures
Open daily 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
1896 by Giovanni Foppiano, a
our ability to move the legacy for12707 Old Redwood Highway, Healdsburg
young immigrant who came to the
ward as we make world-class
707-433-7272 • www.foppiano.com
United States from Genoa, Italy in
wines that reflect our core family
the 1850s. After the gold rush,
values,” said Louis M. Foppiano.
Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc,
Giovanni imagined a future in
Foppiano Vineyards sits on
Petite Sirah, Rosé
farming and winemaking and
170 acres of Russian River bench
FUN During Prohibition, federal agents emptied 140,000
settled in Sonoma County. He
land, of which 140 acres are
FACT gallons of the family’s 1918 vintage into the local stream. planted to vineyards. Guests
bought the Riverside Farm Winery,
People came from miles around with cups and jugs hoping
establishing it as Foppiano Vinewho visit Foppiano can take
to get a sample of the Foppiano wine.
yards in 1896. Soon, Giovanni’s
a self-guided tour of the estate
son Louis A. joined the family business, producing and sell- vineyards at their own pace enabling them to see grape
ing Foppiano wines and creating a family line of participants, vines up close. The friendly and knowledgeable staff in the
including his son Louis J. Foppiano, who was born in 1910 tasting room pours current releases every day with a focus
and just celebrated his 99th birthday in November. Louis J.’s on the flagship Petite Sirah and Pinot Noir. Conveniently
son Louis M. Foppiano is the fourth generation and third located just south of the popular town of Healdsburg on
Louis Foppiano at the helm of one of the country’s few six- Old Redwood Highway, Foppiano Vineyards is one of the
generation family operations.
few wineries that does not require an appointment or charge
Today, the Foppiano family has renewed that same inge- for tastings. Open seven days a week it’s the perfect place to
nuity and dedication that the winery was founded on all step back in time, learn a bit of history while enjoying
those years ago. Recognizing that the first chapter of the handcrafted Russian River Valley wines made with today’s
family history was written, Louis M. Foppiano wanted to lay state-of-the-art technology.
Eastside Bunch
21
Christie Vineyards
Authentic, friendly, down-home, fun and delicious! rest, as they say, is history.
Let’s talk about the wines – I tasted two of Steve’s wines
Christie Vineyards is all this and more!
Located just south of Healdsburg on Limerick Lane, and both were excellent! 2008 Pinot Noir, Russian River ValChristie Vineyards is a place you just gotta check out! You’ll ley: Aromas and flavors of strawberry, cherry, rose petals,
need to call in advance of your visit, because they are open by vanilla and spice abound, all presented in a silky, lovely
appointment only, but it’s well worth the extra planning. mouthfeel. 2007 Zinfandel, Russian River Valley: Oooh!
Juicy! Mouthwatering aromas of
Only 1000 cases a year are proraspberry, blackberry and pepduced and they are only available
Christie Vineyards
pery spice continue as flavors in
at the winery.
Open by appointment only
the lush, balanced mouth.
The short gravel driveway is
851 Limerick Lane, Healdsburg
So, there I was at Christie
flanked with vines and olive trees.
(707) 431-0662 • www.christievineyards.com
Vineyards, tasting wine in the
You can’t miss the winery – it’s a
barn, feeling relaxed, petting the
rustic barn-like building accented
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Prosecco,
dog and talking with Steve
with stainless steel tanks and racks
Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah,
about his vines and wines. It just
of barrels.
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel
doesn’t get any better than this!
When you arrive, you’ll most
Here are a couple of cool
likely be greeted by Christie VineFUN Join the wine club and have your initials
yards’ founder/owner/farmer and
FACT permanently branded on one of their buildings! things that are going on now (or
will be in the near future):
winemaker, Steve Aitken, and
Jug wines – Steve has a program going where you can, for
T-Bone, his trusty, two-year-old Black Lab/Golden Retriever
puppy. Both are lanky, friendly and happy to show you a very reasonable price, label, fill up and take home a jug with
some of his excellent Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Petite Sirah,
around.
Steve Aitken is a study in entrepreneurial spirit. He started Sauvignon Blanc or Chardonnay. Steve also makes a Proseco
an automotive repair shop at the tender age of 18 and ran it (Italian bubbly), which is available in a 750ml bottle.
Brand recognition: Steve has made branding irons with
for 30 successful years until 2001 when he sold it and moved
his family to the current home of Christie Vineyards on Lim- the letters A-Z. If you join Christie Vineyards’ wine club, Steve
will brand one of his buildings with your initials. How cool
erick Lane.
In 1981, Steve purchased a parcel of land in the Dry Creek is that?
Steve is also working on creating a picnic area and big orValley and started his adventure as a winegrower. After being
a weekend farmer for 17 years, Steve took a home winemak- ganic garden down by the creek. Long story short – don’t miss
ing class and produced his first barrel of estate wine and the this place, it’s special! BY SUE STRAIGHT, THE WINE WENCH
22
Eastside Bunch
Alexander Valley
Gateway to
Only an hour north of the Golden Gate Bridge, the Alexander Valley is leaps and bounds away from
any hustle and bustle. Visitors looking for a more relaxed, authentic wine country experience, will
be happy here. Brimming with hospitality, this stunning corner of the world is home to 40 wineries, each boasting distinctive, unassuming wines.
HE
RC
AS
.
101
D
GEYSER PEAK
CAN
YO
N
D.
IR
NT
IA
CH
DUT
C
Healdsburg Ridge Hiking Trail
entry gate at arabian Way and Bridle Path.
(sorry, no pets allowed).
One of Sonoma’s favorite nature preserves,
take the Ridge Hiking Trail to the Fox Pond
Run and Fox Pond Overlook. A wonderful
place to get some fresh air and exercise in
wine country!
R
TI
REEK
RD
THINGS TO DO
Bosworth & Son General Store
(707) 857-3463, www.bosworthandson.com
Once a mortuary and even a buggy store –
the buggy paint still stains the floor –
Bosworth & Son General Store is an old-fashioned store meeting the Western-inspired
needs of today’s customer.
Geyserville Inn\Hoffman House Restaurant
Hope Merrill/Hope Bosworth House
Bosworth & Son General Store
deLORIMIER
Diavola Pizzeria
CLOS DU BOIS
128
E RD.
VILL
ER
YS
GE
TRENTADUE
L
TON SPRINGS
KL
PAR
101
E
SIMI
E
XAND
ALE
BURG AV
HEALDS
GROVE
Not to scale
N
K
LYTTO
EE
CR
YT
ITA
QU
CHI
DR
Y
Jimtown
Store
L. R
R VA
A
AND F
D.
Veterans Memorial Beach,
13839 Healdsburg avenue, Healdsburg, (707) 433-1625
Truly one of Healdsburg’s most favorite river side beaches!
Bring a picnic, kick off your shoes, or even borrow an inner tube.
Nothing to do here but relax, breathe deeply, and listen to the
river roll on by.
FOOD
Jimtown Store, 6706 Highway 128, Healdsburg
(707) 433-1212, www.jimtown.com
Literally tucked into the vineyards in the Jimtown store. For
more than 100 years, Jimtown has provided Healdsburg with
fresh baked goods, hot coffee, and local products. Linger over the
eclectic American antiques and old-fashioned toys.
Diavola Pizzaria & Salumeria
(707) 814-0111, www.diavolapizzaria.com
Diavola is your stop for deli sandwiches, house cured salamis,
and refreshing wine and beer. A gourmet picnic heaven! Diavola practices the time honored tradition of 'Cucina Povera' and
uses the most locally available ingredients combined with centuries old recipes.
Hoffman House Restaurant
21712 Geyserville ave, Geyserville
(707) 857-3264, www.hoffmanhousegeyserville.com
Built more than 100 years ago by the Hoffman family, this cafe
serves healthy breakfast and lunch with striking views of the
majestic mountains nearby. Seasonal dinners, call first.
SAUSAL
R MS
Healdsburg Ridge
Hiking Trail
LODGING
Grape Leaf Inn, 539 Johnson street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-8140, www.grapeleafinn.com
A picturesque Queen Anne Victorian bed and breakfast, the
Grape Leaf Inn seamlessly blends modern decor with timeless
antiques. Gracious staff provide the best hospitality in this relaxing, romantic environment.
Belle de Jour Inn, 16276 Healdsburg ave., Healdsburg
(707) 431-9777, www.belledujourinn.com
A single-story Italiante built in the 1870s, Belle du Jour nestles
on six acres of hilltop overlooking rolling hilltops and valleys.
Hope Merril & Hope Bosworth B&B
(707) 857-3356, www.hope-inns.com
Once an early stage-coach stop, these now two strikingly restored
Queen Anne Craftsman homes welcome you with open arms.
Truly where wine and romance intertwine!
Geyserville Inn, 21714 Geyserville avenue, Geyserville
(707) 857-4343, www.Geyservilleinn.com
First class accomodations at more affordable prices
in the heart of wine country!
Gateway to Alexander Valley
23
Simi Winery
It was more than 75 years ago when Isabelle Simi Haigh winery operating profitably when both her father and her
announced to her work crew that she wanted them to con- uncle died unexpectedly within a few weeks of each other
vert a huge, unused wine vat into a unique tasting room. and left her to carry on. Even the stones used in conSince then, Simi Winery has built a reputation for offering struction of the waterfall in the grove have a story to tell,
visitors not just tastes of superb wines but comfortable and since all the materials that went into the creation of this
unique settings in which to try the wines. In the warm vis- idyllic spot were recycled from earlier structures or were
natural stones found on the
iting days of summer, tours often
property as land was cleared for
begin in the redwood grove that
Simi Winery
vineyards over the years. The
shelters the tasting room. The
long communal tables where
grove also serves as the focal point
16275 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg
wine fanciers from everywhere
for events and for special food
sit down as perfect strangers
and wine explorations.
(707) 473-3232
and rise as friends trading their
This summer many Simi
www.simiwinery.com
own recipes for special pizzas,
guests may be seen, heads raised,
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay,
were crafted from staves of old
making gentle sniffing sounds
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
fermentation tanks.
and remarking that they think
Many pizza lovers swear
they smell pizzas. And they are
FUN Simi Winery tasting room was originally
that the only wine to consume
right. Each Saturday from 11
FACT made from a huge wine vat.
with their favorite pizzas, no
a.m. till 4 p.m., the redwood
matter which crust is made or
grove is transformed into an exotic sort of pizza parlor, offering a menu of exotic pizzas what toppings are sprinkled over the top, is Cabernet
created by Chef Eric Lee. The pizzas are made in the East Sauvignon, The hearty, beautifully balanced 2006
Coast thin-crust style, but the toppings are all strictly local, Alexander Valley Cabernet and the 2005 Reserve Caberwith generous use of fresh-from-the-farm greens that Eric net just released by Simi Winery will only reinforce that
selects for the pizza he calls “Forage.” Even the Italian belief, and the more daring suggest that they have found
a new combination to savor, quaffing the gold medal
sausage (salsicce) is made by Eric in the winery kitchen.
As delicious as the pizzas are, the winery staff eagerly winning 2008 Sauvignon Blanc with the Forage and
points out that they taste even more tempting when con- Sausage pizzas. This trio of wines is only available, at
sumed in the setting of the redwood grove, and nearly the present time, in the tasting room, so while the pizeveryone involved with the winery loves to tell the story zas bake, visitors may want to sample these three elegant
BY MILLIE HOWIE
of this historic family and the teenage girl who kept the newcomers.
24
Clos du Bois
Many wine lovers know the offerings of Clos du Bois so massive rose-pink production facility is plumped down in
well that they may think they have no need to re-visit their the middle of vineyards that stretch to the feet of Black Mounold favorites during a trip to wine country. Not true, tain and Geyser Peak on the eastern edge of the valley.
Its tasting room has a whimsical “faux barn” look to it,
because in addition to the widely available Classics series
of Clos du Bois wines, visitors to the Clos du Bois tasting bordered by broad grassy lawns dotted with pagodas and
room can sample not only the smaller-production series of picnic tables and with massive terracotta planters full of
flowers on the walkway leading to
Reserve wines, but also the presits doors. Wines available to taste
tigious Proprietary series of wines
Clos du Bois
vary from time to time, but there
(showcasing the excellent vineOpen 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
are always many to choose from.
yards of Alexander Valley) and
The tasting room staff is uncomLimited Release wines that are
19410 Geyserville Avenue, Geyserville
monly knowledgeable about
available only in the tasting room.
(707) 857-1651 • closdubois.com
every aspect of the wines you will
Clos du Bois was founded in
Old Vine Zin, Old Vine Carignane, Malvasia Bianca,
taste and will be happy to guide
1974 on 100 acres of land in
your tasting to the wine styles you
Alexander Valley in the northern
Fume Blanc, Fleur Late Harvest Riesling, Petit Sirah
prefer. If you linger for a picnic,
part of Sonoma County. The CaliFUN Clos du Bois was poured at the White House
it’s good to know that a wide
fornia wine renaissance was just
FACT in 1984 at President Ronald Regan’s
selection of chilled wines and
getting under way at that time,
second Inaugural Dinner.
light picnic fare are available to
and little was known about the
enjoy with your lunch.
potential of this valley for growing
If you are interested in knowing more about how the
outstanding wine grapes. Clos du Bois succeeded in putting
itself on the map for wine excellence and in the process also wines are made, you can arrange to take a tour of the vinemanaged to help make Alexander Valley well-known for yards and cellars. A modest fee of $15 includes the tour,
wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot Chardonnay sampling aging wine directly from the barrel, and a tasting
of five wines afterward. The tasting room at Clos du Bois is
and Sauvignon Blanc in particular.
Today, visitors can enjoy tasting many different varieties of located at 19410 Geyserville Avenue; the nearest exit from
wine in the heart of the gorgeous Alexander Valley, just to the Hwy. 101 is Independence Lane. For tour reservations,
east of Hwy. 101 and a few miles north of hip and charming directions or other information, visit the website at
Healdsburg. (Or if you prefer, a couple of miles south of www.closdubois.com.
P.S. The Clos du Bois website usually offers a 2-for-1
Geyserville, a stubbornly un-gentrified little town with amazBY NAN REILEY
ingly good restaurants.) The winery is hard to miss – its tasting room coupon – check it out!
25
Trentadue Winery
There is never too much of a good thing at Sonoma and friendly) tasting room staff members will pour and edCounty’s Trentadue in Geyserville, especially when it comes ucate visitors in a relaxed and very Northern California
to the awards they receive for their wines. As a Michelin in- comfortable setting at the tasting room in Geyserville.
spector would say if this were a restaurant, “Certainly worth Check into the chocolate and wine pairing, done by special
request, which might define, in a very nice way, the word
the drive.”
As Trentadue winemaker Miro Tcholakov said, “For the “decadent.”
With a last word, Royalene
last decade Trentadue wines have
Mancini
has said more than once
changed dramatically, and in a
Trentadue Winery
that, “Trentadue makes incredible
positive direction. Consistently
award-winning wines that are
and quietly we have been win19170 Geyserville Avenue, Geyserville
available at very affordable prices.
ning many best of class and gold
(707) 433-3104 • 1-888-332-3032
It’s all about quality for value!”
medals from the Sonoma County
www.trentadue.com
And a visit to the winery will
Harvest Fair, and from other
prove that over and over again.
prestigious wine competitions,
Sparkling, Grenache Rose, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Trentadue’s tasting room offers
placing us in the top ten percent
Zinfandel, Merlot, Mourvedre, Tempranillo, Port
tastings of any four wines for $5.
or better of all wineries. We just
The La Storia Reserve tasting
don’t brag about it! For all these
FUN Gondola tours of the vineyards
room is available for groups of six
years I have really enjoyed makFACT are available by prior reservation.
to 20. Sit down and relax while
ing great wines from our estate
tasting six different varietals of Trentadue wines. One of the
fruit, especially the reserve La Storia wines.”
Leo and Evelyn Trentadue, fruit growers from Santa Clara professional tasting room staff members will pour and eduCounty, first purchased this Alexander Valley estate in 1959. cate guests in a comfortable lovely setting. The duration is
At the time, 150 of the property’s roughly 200 acres were one hour, $20 per person, reservations are required.
There is also the popular “Gondola Tour” where you can
plum trees; the rest of the estate was planted with old vine
Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane. Soon after their pur- ride through the estate vineyards and learn the history bechase the Trentadues began replacing the plum trees with hind Alexander Valley and what makes this particular valley
grapevines. The family didn’t start making wine until 1969, so special, as you taste wines along the way. There is an eight
when they held back some of the fruit they usually sold to guest minimum and reservations are required.
For reservations or more information, call Royalene at
start their own Trentadue label.
One thing you can be assured of is that one of the (707) 433-3104 #106 or email [email protected].
BY CHARLES NEAVE
winery’s professional (not intimidating, but knowledgeable
26 Gateway to Alexander Valley
Winemaker Mick Schroeter
Geyser Peak Winery
Ask questions. This is an opportunity to not only eduGeyser Peak Winery was named “One of the best tasting rooms
cate your palate, but also learn more about the winemaking
in Napa and Sonoma Counties” by the Wall Street Journal.
One of California’s oldest and most award-winning winer- process. You will find tasting room staff, owners and wineies, Geyser Peak was founded in 1880, a pioneer of the makers quite congenial and eager to share their knowledge
Alexander Valley in Sonoma County. Perched on a hillside with you.
Taste the wines in the suggested order. Always taste from
across from Geyser Peak Mountain, this beautiful setting
whites to reds. Attempting to
overlooks Geyserville, the Russian
identify fruit flavors or delicate
River and the northern end of
Geyser Peak Winery
floral notes in a Pinot Grigio after
Alexander Valley.
tasting a peppery Zinfandel is
The winery consistently garners
22281 Chianti Road, Geyserville
next to impossible. If you’ve alsome of the most prestigious
ready tasted a red wine and want
awards in winemaking, including
800-255-WINE • www.geyserpeakwinery.com
to try a white wine again, either
Winery of the Year and WineSauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon,
wait for another day, or perhaps
maker of the Year honors. Its
Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Grigio
rinse your mouth with Sauvignon
outstanding team of winemakers
Blanc, eat a cracker or bread stick,
and viticulturists are noted for
FUN
FACT Visit the website for a 2-for-1 tasting coupon.
and then you may be able to reset
fruit-forward, food-friendly wines
your palate to experience the nufrom prime vineyard sources in the
Alexander Valley. If you have been thinking about visiting the ances of the white wine.
Please use dump buckets set out on the tasting bar to diswinery, now is a great time to come visit! The winery is
located in the heart of Alexander Valley, surrounded by vine- pose of excess wine. Don’t feel compelled to finish each glass.
Limit yourself to no more than four wine tastes per
yards and the historic winery itself.
Step up to the 30-foot granite bar to sample award-win- winery.
Don’t wear perfume, cologne or scented lotions. They
ning varietal wines. Five to seven wines are poured every day
($5/person) and a variety of wine accessories and gift items WILL affect how you smell the aromas and taste the flavors
are available. A café-style tasting room, overlooking the bar- of the wine.
Always designate a driver. A prudent decision for a carerel cellar, hosts the Reserve Tasting ($10) and, during the
weekend, Library Tasting ($15). All tastings are compli- free day of tasting is to utilize one of the many local tour
services available. They are fun and especially affordable for
mentary for wine club members.
To fully enjoy your wine tasting experience, Geyser Peak groups.
Most importantly, have fun!
Winery offers these suggestions and pointers:
27
deLorimier Winery
The architecture of this 44-acre property fits into the land- that deLorimier is quickly becoming the hot new “Cabernet
scape seamlessly, surrounded by vines as it is, the property House” in the Alexander Valley. Already known for quality,
adding a variety of vineyard-designate Cabernet Sauvignons
line at the back being the Russian River.
Go down the long drive and you will go past the original seemed like the perfect next step for owners and respected
farm house, now lovingly restored, and you will come to the Sonoma County winemakers and grape growers, Ken and
winery proper. To the left, the smaller of the two buildings Diane Wilson. The fact that they keep winning gold medals
on these new Cabernets just adds
houses the tasting room, a fully
another gratifying dimension.
licensed commercial kitchen, and
deLorimier Winery
Stop by, visit and sample. The
a private tasting room. To the right,
Open daily 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
tasting room, with its high wood
the building you first thought
2001 Highway 128, Healdsburg
ceilings, old vines above the bar
might have been a barn, is the cav(707) 857-2001 • www.delorimierwinery.com
(you’ll see), fireplace, three-sided
ernous barrel room which, at times,
copper-topped tasting bar –
hosts private parties. In between is
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon,
which is backed by a large wina spectacular courtyard with a
Malbec, Sangiovese, Meritage, Zinfandel,
dow framing the vineyards on the
perfectly proportioned fountain,
Petite Verdot, Cabernet Franc
other side of the glass – is the perlots of comfortable seating and
plantings that compliment both of
FUN Expect to stay a while for the wine, art and croquet. fect place to learn about the wines
of deLorimier.
the buildings with their mellow
FACT Look for live music during the summer.
It is here that you might try
wood construction and this beautiful outdoor space. No wonder the property is in demand their famous Cabernets, and perhaps the Stuhlmuller
for parties, receptions, retreats and, of course, this being wine Chardonnay or the Estate Merlot. Or, it could be their medalwinning Estate Mosaic Red Meritage or the Stone Ranch or
country, weddings.
The winery’s estate vineyard has been sculpted for wed- Francis Vineyard Zinfandels. And if they are not sold out (as
dings of all sizes. Besides the spacious gallery tasting room, they often are), the Sauvignon Blanc or the Cabernet Franc.
the private “Club deLo” space provides an intimate venue for Variety is not an issue here, which may be an understatement.
Outside you can picnic on a lawn where croquet has been
smaller tastings and dinners, while the extensive vineyard
grounds and “Cabana Courtyard” have been designed to han- played every now and again; perhaps walk down to the river’s
dle dream weddings. There is even a two-bedroom guest edge. The key to it all is to relax and enjoy, which is what this
house on the grounds, and every bit of it is surrounded by beautiful spot is all about. Just one more reason why, when
you visit this part of the world, it is one you will not want to
vineyards.
BY CHARLES NEAVE
Special events aside, it has become rather widely known miss.
28 Gateway to Alexander Valley
Sausal Winery
Sausal Winery in Alexander Valley – no world-famous ar- fandels, plus some Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, all
chitect built it, no priceless art collection is housed in it, and from estate-owned vineyards that surround the winery.
You will have to taste for yourself to see which is your fano sumptuous gardens with waterfalls and statuary are to be
found in it. What visitors will find at Sausal is the Demostene vorite – none will disappoint you, and the 2007 vintage
family, who has lived and worked in the Alexander Valley for Century Vines Zinfandel will make you a true believer in the
generations and who make some of California’s finest Zin- mystique surrounding old-vine Zinfandel. All the Zinfandels
are dry-farmed for added fruit infandel wines.
tensity and the oldest vines are
The family purchased the
Sausal Vineyard & Winery
head trained in the traditional
Sausal Ranch (named for the creek
manner, as you would expect.
that flows through it into the RussOpen daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
A visit any time of year would
ian River) in 1956. The next
7370 Highway 128, Healdsburg
be rewarding, but if you find
generation
of
Demostenes
1-800-500-2285
yourself in the area on Saturday,
founded the winery in 1973, in
www.sausalwinery.com
June 26th, don’t miss the Sausal
large part to take advantage of the
Sock Hop Party, an open-to-theexistence of Zinfandel grape vines
Zinfandel, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon
public celebration themed to the
that had been producing high
FUN Sausal’s Century Vines Zinfandel is from
1950s because of the Demostene
quality grapes since 1877. That’s
FACT their estate vineyards planted in 1877.
family’s purchase of the winery
not a typographical error, and you
property in that decade. There
can prove that for yourself when
you visit the winery to taste living history – Zinfandel wines will be food and wine, music from the ’50s, an Elvis imperthat are made from vines that are 50, 90 and 130+ years old. sonator and classic cars of the period. So put on your poodle
Follow Hwy. 128 along the eastern edge of the Alexan- skirts and dig out those pop-it beads or roll up your T-shirt
der Valley to the winery, then down the winery’s driveway to sleeves (cigarette pack optional) and grow some sideburns.
a rustic, barn-red wooden building with a trellised porch that The party lasts from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and costs only $15
houses the tasting room. Simple, like the rest of the winery, for all-day fun and great Zinfandel.
The Sausal Vineyard & Winery tasting room is open daily
the tasting room is not a mini-mall teeming with wine country merchandise. There is only some nice logo clothing and from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and is wheelchair accessible. Picsome sleeping and scratching stations that exist for the pleas- nickers are welcome to enjoy themselves on a trellised patio
ure of the two winery cats, Sophie and Gypsie, who wander shaded by luscious grape vines, a traditional Italian touch.
The winery is located just a few miles east of the charming
in and out as the mood takes them.
BY NAN REILEY
What you’re there for is a treasure trove of old-vine Zin- town of Healdsburg.
29
Downtown Healdsburg
Healdsburg is charming. Every brick, every flower box, every elegant shop and eclectic gallery,
every five-star restaurant and cozy cafe on every single corner speak to this town's genuine individuality and down-to-earth-treasures. Downtown Healdsburg may be surrounded by bucolic rolling
hills and picturesque vineyards, but around this age-old square, its hard to imagine being anywhere
else more delightful. No matter what time of year, Healdsburg is a town for every season.
THINGS TO DO
Erickson Gallery, 324 Healdsburg avenue
(707) 431-7073
www.ericksonfineartgallery.com
Local and international artists are featured in
the gallery. Works for sale include contemporary paintings, sculpture and works on paper.
Sonoma County Wine Library
139 Piper street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-3772, www.sonomalibrary.org
A free visit with a wealth of information!
The library has more than 5,000 books dealing
with all aspects of making wine, some of them
date even back to 1512! Knowledgeable
librarians are on hand to help guide you.
Raven Theater, 115 North street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-6335, www.raventheater.org
Where would we be without performing arts?
A big, dark nowhere, that's where. It’s thanks
to cultural theaters like the Raven, that publics
can experience entertainment that is beyond a
moment's blip of distraction. Enjoy wonderful performances and expand your world.
Healdsburg Museum & Historic Homes
Walking Tour, 221 matheson street,
(707) 431-3325, www.healdsburgmuseum.org
Don’t miss “From Cabins to Craftsmans: 100
Years of Healdsburg’s Architecture” – on now
through June 13, 2010. Sign up for a guided
tour of the town's unique, architecture and
history!
Hand Fan Museum
327a Healdsburg avenue, Healdsburg
(707) 431-2500, www.handfanmuseum.com
Explore geography, art and history in this
unusual museum of actual hand fans from
around the world.
Shoffeitt’s off the Square
(707) 433-5556
www.shoffeittsoffthesquare.com
This is a shopping mecca of antiques,
collectibles, local arts and gifts, as well as
fine & custom jewelry. “Don’t judge a book
by its cover” ... the building goes on forever!
Segway Tours, (707) 953-3477
www.segwayofhealdsburg.com
Take a fun tour of Healdsburg on a rented
Segway – helmets included, $69 per person.
Getaway Adventures
santa rosa, (707) 568-3040
www.getawayadventures.com
Healdsburg Sip 'n Cycle: Visit the sites and
learn local wine facts throughout downtown
Healdsburg and into the vineyards on this innovative, healthy tour! Tours include a picnic
and bocce.
Options, 126 matheson street, Healdsburg
(707) 431-8861, www.optionsgallery.com
Beautiful unique, creations of art for you to
wear, use or admire in your home.
30 Downtown Healdsburg
FOOD
Bear Republic Brewing Co.
(707) 433-2337, www.bearrepublic.com
Sonoma County's premier brewpub, brewery, and
restaurant! Real beer, microbrewed and real cold!
Perfect after a day of tasting wine.
Charlie Palmer's Dry Creek Kitchen
Hotel Healdsburg, 317 Healdsburg avenue
(707) 431-0330, www.charliepalmer.com
Celebrating Sonoma's pioneering wines and spirits, celebrated Chef
Charlie Palmer takes the best of our farm-fresh produce and culinary cradle and infuses it with his passion and trademark style.
Zin Restaurant & Wine Bar, 344 Center street
reservations recommended, (707) 473-0946
Dinner served daily, lunch monday-Fridays
Zin features delicious seasonal cuisine with produce grown
especially for them. Wine industry locals often gather here
for a little nourishment and “shop talk.”
Cyrus Restaurant , 29 North street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-3311, www.cyrusrestaurant.com
Consistently reviewed as one of THE best restaurants in all of
wine country by Wine Spectator, Gourmet, Food & Wine, Esquire, Wine Enthusiast, and Wall Street Journal. Splurge on the
Tasting Menu or the Vegetarian Tasting Menu.
Oakville Grocery, 124 matheson street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-3200, www.OakvilleGrocery.com
“Little Country Store” with overflowing shelves and a
deli chock full of handmade, gourmet picnic items,
the Oakville Grocery is an absolute MUST.
LODGING
Healdsburg Inn on the Plaza
112 matheson street, Healdsburg
(707) 433-6991, www.healsburginn.com
Built in 1901, this classic California inn is located right on the
Healdsburg Plaza. From summer concerts to holiday tree lightings, the town's best events take place right here. Guests are also
surrounded by shops, galleries, tasting rooms and restaurants.
Hotel Healdsburg, 25 matheson street, Healdsburg
1-800-889-7188, www.hotelhealdsburg.com
Chic, beautifully appointed Hotel Healdsburg is located on the historic square and is one of the premier Wine Country luxury
lodgings in all Sonoma County.
DRY CREEK RD
MARCH AVE
GRAPE LEAF INN
PIPER ST
Sonoma County
Wine Library
NORTH ST
Raven Theater
Cyrus
COLLEGE ST
JOHNSON
CENTER ST
GRANT ST
FITCH ST
Zin Restaurant
PROHIBITION
FINE ART GALLERY
KENDALL JACKSON
Bear Republic Brewing Co.
Hand Fan Museum
Dry Creek Kitchen
Hotel Healdsburg
PLAZA
Historic Homes
Walking Tours
Plaza
SON
MATHE
SELBY
Options Gallery
OAKVILLE GROCERY
ER
MILL
EAST
SHOFFEITT’S
OFF THE SQUARE
SON
MATHE
TOPEL
CENT
Healdsburg Inn
on the Plaza
ST
PLAZA
Ferrari-Carano’s
SEASONS OF THE VINEYARD
POWELL’S SWEET SHOPPE
FITCH
ERICKSON
ST
101
LINCOLN
PRINCE
SEGHESIO
HEALDSBURG AVE.
GROVE ST
.
Not to scale
Downtown Healdsburg
31
Kendall-Jackson Healdsburg
“Sure we’re Kendall-Jackson, and you can find our
The wines of Kendall-Jackson are known to virtually
every wine lover anywhere in this country and far beyond. great Vintner’s Reserve that you know from home,” Will
And the historic Sonoma County town of Healdsburg is noted. “But what thrills me is meeting people who come
rapidly becoming a destination in itself, with a constantly here and discover a whole new world of hand-crafted,
growing collection of shops, boutiques, some first-class limited-production wines.”
Visitors can approach wine tasting in two ways: a
hotels and restaurants, bars and grills, bed and breakfasts
selection of four wines, or a
and small inns, bistros, galleries
tasting focusing on Stature and
and more.
Very near the northwest corner Kendall-Jackson Healdsburg Tasting Room Highland Estates. Employees
are happy to serve the needs of
of the Healdsburg Plaza, the rich
every guest, whether a wine
and varied world of Kendall337 Healdsburg Avenue, Healdsburg
aficionado or a complete newJackson wines seems to shrink
(707) 433-7102 • www.kj.com
comer.
down to an intimate, unhurried
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris,
Grand Reserve is their superscale that wraps every visitor in
Riesling, Muscat Canelli, Pinot Noir, Malbec,
lative blend of terroir from key
a unique welcome. You are not
Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
vineyards, the harmony of apintimidated in the least, simply
pellation and winemaking skill.
encouraged to enjoy the wines, the
FUN Taste small-production, vineyard-designated
Then there are the bottlings from
tasting room, the surroundings.
FACT wines available only in the tasting room.
Highland Estates which are
Guests from all over the world,
the wines that best showcase
greeted by the veteran KendallJackson tasting room staff, soon find themselves discovering Kendall-Jackson’s estate properties on mountains and ridges
an unexpected dimension of this renowned winery. The in California’s cool coastal regions.
Stature, the highest level of Kendall-Jackson winemakdesign of the tasting room invokes browsing among wines
and gifts chosen personally by the manager – ceramics, ing, is produced in very small lots from the finest estate
vineyards.
books, glassware, olive oil and more.
With its unmatched blend of a welcoming staff, handMany, if not most, visitors to the tasting room admit that
they have never seen this side of Kendall-Jackson, or K-J as crafted wines, and its exceptional and easily accessible
it is called. Will Alexander, the Tasting Room Manager, loves location makes the Kendall-Jackson Healdsburg Tasting
what he calls that “Eureka” look on the faces of guests just Room one of the must-see attractions in this part of the
getting acquainted with the more exclusive Kendall-Jackson beautiful Sonoma Wine Country.
BY CHARLES NEAVE
wines they will find there.
Topel Tasting Room
Known as the hidden jewel of Mendocino’s Duncan Sauvignon from Howell Mountain in Napa, two Pinot Noirs;
Peak, Topel Winery is a far cry from the well-trodden two Chardonnays, a Sauvignon Blanc, a white wine blend
highways and byways of California’s most visited wine called Birdsong, Mark’s Blend, a Meritage, a Gamay, a Zinfandel and a lovely Orange Muscato.
country.
Compact and cozy, the Topel Tasting Room was artfully
A haven of spiritual sustenance for owners Mark and
Donnis Topel, the former sheep ranch and craggy 14-acre designed with comfort and style as commanding elements
in the details of its copper counmountain “Hidden Vineyard”
tertops, sleek black fixtures and
that produces many of the winTopel Tasting Room
cherry wood library seating area
ery’s most sought-after wines is a
with digital slideshow of the
world away from the chic downcompelling vineyard cycle.
town address of Topel’s trendy
125 Matheson Street, Healdsburg
A snug and attractive estate
and attainable Healdsburg tasting
(707) 433-4116 • www.topelwines.com
room tasting area off the main
room.
www.facebook.com/topelwinery
room is a regular hot spot for
Just off the Plaza and across
the street from the Oakville Gro- Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Gamay, Meritage, blending parties with the Topels
frequently hosting special
cery, Topel Tasting Room opened
Super Tuscan Blend, Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc,
events. Estate room tastings are
to wine aficionados in September
Chardonnay, White Wine Blend, Orange Muscato
available for private groups of
2008, offering winter discounts
Sunday through Thursday, and
FUN Topel publishes a calendar every year – Topel Wine Tails four to 12 people by appointFACT – a benefit for the Healdsburg Animal Shelter.
ment only, and a fee of $20 per
tastings of the winery’s Biodyperson is refundable with a
namic® handcrafted wines for a
minimal fee of $5 for a choice of four wines, $8 for a minimum purchase of a (six bottle) half case per person.
choice of six and $11 for all nine wines – $5 is refundable Private tasting includes all Topel Flight wines, plus at least
two library wines and a selection of cheeses, breads and
with purchase.
Topel wines are gently crafted to reveal a unique evo- light appetizers.
As owner/winemakers, Mark and Donnis Topel infuse
lution of each varietal, as minimalist techniques have
transformed the grapes into world-class, soulful wines that a wealth of aesthetic senses and experiences into their
reflect the steep, rocky soil and foggy climate of their ori- wines. Leading a dual life, Mark Topel is a prominent
criminal defense attorney handling some of this country’s
gin.
Topel Cabernet Sauvignon, Hidden Vineyard is the most complex criminal and civil litigation.
BY FRANCES RIVETTI
flagship wine poured alongside a limited-edition Cabernet
Downtown Healdsburg
33
Photos by Barbara Bourne
Prohibition– The speakeasy Wine Club
Of all the wine bars in all the towns in all the world, I can’t be beat – it sits right in the middle of downtown
had to walk into his. Richard Rosenberg looked up at me Healdsburg, on the corner of Healdsburg Avenue and North
from behind the black, semi-circular bar as I settled myself Street. You enter through the wine shop in the front (which
looks like it’s right out of the 1920s) – barn siding and coron one of the padded black leather bar stools.
Richard asked me, “What’s on your mind beside your rugated tin are the backdrop to tasteful wine-related items
hat, doll-face?” I told him, “I haven’t lived a good life – I’ve and some carefully chosen wine selections. There’s a phone
booth in the corner of the shop
drank bad wines, worse than you
that opens into the back, then
can imagine.” He replied, “Well,
Prohibition –
ring-a-ding-ding! you find yoursweetheart, you’ve come the right
The Speakeasy Wine Club
self in an authentic looking,
joint – here at Prohibition, you’ll
1920s era speakeasy. This place
never have to drink another bad
11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily
has such an authentic 1920swine.”
340 Healdsburg Avenue
1930s feel that you almost
I cased the speakeasy, taking in
at North Street in Healdsburg
expect to see a group of flappers
the brick walls, polished wood
(707) 473-WINE (9463)
and their guys doing the
and tables scattered around the
www.speakeasywineclub.com
Charleston in the corner.
spacious interior. A large flat
A generous selection of hardscreen TV showed Jimmy Cagney
FUN You’ll need to sneak in The Speakeasy
to-find
wines and Prohibition
getting tough with some G-man
FACT through the phone booth!
style beers are available by the
as twenties music filled the air.
The gat sitting front and center on the back bar didn’t scare glass, by the bottle and by the case. Wine cocktails are also
available. If you are a wine-loving dame like me, or a Joe
me – I took it as a warning…
“My Grandfather owned and operated a real speakeasy who likes his wines and beers, this is the joint for you.
during Prohibition and I was always intrigued by his sto- There is also a Prohibition Wine Club in the works, where
ries of the fake facades, bootleggers and revelry of the time,” lucky Joes and dames can get a choice selection of wines
said co-owner Richard Rosenberg when I asked him about shipped conveniently to their offices or homes.
Take a trip back in time and check out Prohibition in
how this came about. “We wanted to recreate the incognito
speakeasies of the 1920s and the camaraderie people felt downtown Healdsburg. Hours are 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.
during the Prohibition era, yet incorporate an authentic Knock on the phone booth and tell ’em “The Wine Wench
wine country atmosphere.” Designed by Kae Rosenberg, sent me.”
I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship…
Richard’s wife and Prohibition co-owner, this snazzy
speakeasy is sure to be a Healdsburg hot spot. The location
Seghesio Family Vineyards
The Seghesio Family has grown grapes in Sonoma County
And, speaking of food, this family cannot help themselves
since 1895. That year, Italian immigrant, Edoardo Seghesio but to share their food traditions! Well known throughout
and his new bride Angela planted the land surrounding their the wine industry for their culinary skills, the family offers
modest home to Zinfandel.
weekend guests a seat at their “Family Tables.” This seated
Today, second-, third- and fourth-generation family mem- wine-and-food pairing allows guests to escape the busy tastbers continue Edoardo’s work as they sustainably farm more ing room bar for a quiet room overlooking the barrel cellar.
than four hundred acres of vineThere, monthly seasonal family
yards on six ranches in Sonoma
recipes are paired with library
Seghesio Family Vineyards
County. The younger generation,
wines. If you’re lucky, you might
led by Peter Seghesio and his
even get a taste of their house14730 Grove Street, Healdsburg
cousin and winemaker, Ted Seghmade salumi. Often, Rachel Ann
(707) 433-7764 • www.seghesio.com
esio, have dedicated themselves to
or Ed Seghesio, the family’s macreate some of the finest Zinfandel
triarch and patriarch, pop into the
Zinfandel and Italian Varietals
and, embracing their history, Italrooms to share the family’s rich
ian varietals, in Sonoma County.
FUN Family recipes are served with highly limited wines history.
Seghesio Zinfandels are consisEd can also be found in his
FACT in private rooms each weekend overlooking the cellar.
tently top the lists of the world’s
favorite
spot, the gardens surCall for details.
best wines. A stop to the tasting
rounding the winery. The
room will allow guests to taste wines from some of California’s charming city of Healdsburg has grown up around Seghesio
oldest and most venerable vineyards. The “Old Vine,” “San where you are tempted to linger as the winery and its garLorenzo” and “Home Ranch” wines boast vineyards dating to dens evoke a simpler time. Engage in the one sport that
the 1890s! And, if you’re looking for a house wine, the Segh- allows you to savor a glass of wine as you play on the family’s
esio Sonoma “Blue Cap” Zinfandel was recently chosen bocce courts under the shade of a rare cork tree!
number 10, on the Wine Spectator’s list of the World’s Top
If you decide you want to be adopted by the Seghesio
100 Wines!
Family, ask about their Centennial Wine Club where you not
Embrace the family’s Italian heritage and a bit of Amer- only enjoy their great wine but are included in their family
ica’s history with Sangiovese. The Seghesios have the oldest traditions.
plantings of these classic Chianti grapes in America. Limited
A stop at Seghesio, with its authentic and abundant
amounts of Barbera, Arneis and Fiano scream, “Food!”
hospitality, will certainly be a highlight of your trip!
Downtown Healdsburg
35
Selby Winery
Looking for a wine tasting stop in Healdsburg? Then let ley grapes in her rich, full-bodied 2009 varietal. Known for
us suggest an excellent one – Selby Winery’s Tasting Room at its pineapple and grapefruit flavor and crisp, clean finish, it’s
the perfect companion for shellfish or pasta with a white
215 Center Street, just off the main downtown plaza.
With at least a dozen wine tasting venues in Healdsburg, sauce. Susie’s newly-released 2008 Russian River Valley
there are several reasons why Selby should be at the top of Chardonnay is supple and elegant, intensely flavored with
your list. From Selby Winery you are going to find delicious, notes of toasty oak from its barrel fermentation and aging.
An herb-roasted chicken would
elegant Sonoma County wines
be a fine dinner with this wine.
made by the woman who owns
Selby Winery Tasting Room
Don’t miss sipping her 2007
and operates Selby Winery virtuOpen daily 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Selby “Bobcat” Zinfandel, made
ally as a one-woman operation.
from grapes grown in the
Susie Selby is that talented
215 Center Street, Healdsburg
vineyards of Dry Creek and
woman, and her wines fall into the
(707) 431-1288 • www.selbywinery.com
Alexander Valleys. The grapes
“must taste” category, no matter
Sauvgnon Blanc, Chardonnay, Semillon, Rosé
themselves are picked at maxihow many wineries you plan to
Pinot Noir, Dolcetto, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec mum sugar levels to attain the
visit.
Today, Susie is making classic Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Petit Sirah, Zinfandel, Port most extreme concentration possible. The wine features a rich
varietals like Sauvignon Blanc,
FUN To date, no one has determined whether Selby's
Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet
FACT highly-acclaimed “Bobcat” Zinfandel was named and bold dark cherry flavor with
hints of pepper, anise and nutSauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel
after the elusive bobcat Susie saw in one of the vineyards
meg. Available only in the tasting
from some of the finest vineyards
or if the wine is named after her 25lb cat Bob.
room, the 2007 Selby “Bobcat”
in Sonoma County. Susie makes
wines that are both sophisticated and accessible. Everything Zinfandel is the most famous and popular of the wines made
possible is done by hand during the winemaking process in- by Selby.
When Susie’s not busy at the winery, guests may find her
cluding picking, fermenting, processing and even bottling!
The Selby Winery Tasting Room is small and intimate and at the downtown tasting room, pleased to talk with visitors
offers guests an appealing and comfortable atmosphere where about her wines. For those wanting additional information
they can concentrate on tasting excellent wines. Featuring about Susie or Selby Winery, visit www.selbywinery.com or
more than 12 wines, including reserve wines, Selby Winery call the tasting room at (707) 431-1288. And the next time
is know for its unique selection of varietals including Mal- you’re in Healdsburg, savor a leisurely luncheon or dinner at
bec, Petite Sirah and Port. Sauvignon Blanc lovers will find a one of our city’s excellent restaurants, followed by a stroll
beautiful combination of Alexander Valley and Dry Creek Val- around this active, stylish downtown.
Russian River
For more than a century, the Russian River has been a true gateway to the grandeur of California's
wild nature and dramatic coast. Today, it is still a destination for all naturalists as well as an increasingly high-profile wine region – and rightly so. Russian River wines are quickly becoming
some of the finest, most sought-after wines in the world and artisan winemakers are finally getting their due. Come for the fresh air, fine wines, incomparable cuisines and relax!
EL
N.
HEMBR
.
AVE
T
A NT
AS
GH
PL E
AU
WINDSOR RIVER RD
FR
.
WY
DH
LODGING
Vintners Inn, 4350 Barnes road, santa rosa
(707) 575-7350, www.vintnersinn.com
A luxury, 44-room, 4 Diamond intimate hotel that is designed
to showcase the very finest in gracious hospitality that Wine
Country provides. Relax in the spa, walk the grounds, even
take a cooking class with famed chef John Ash! Truly an exceptional hotel!
Fountain Grove Inn
101 Fountaingrove Parkway, santa rosa
(707) 578-6101, www.fountaingroveinn.com
For business or leisure travel, the Fountain Grove Inn Hotel &
Conference Center is a luxurious, but not ostentatious, hotel
that is convenient to all of Sonoma County wine country.
Hilton Sonoma Wine Country
3555 round Barn Blvd., santa rosa
(707) 523-7555, www.hilton.com
Enjoy 13 acres of landscaped grounds and views over
Santa Rosa Valley in this resort-like, pet-friendly,
100% non-smoking hotel.
LAKEW
OO
D
OO
E RD.
DW
RE
ID
STS
OLD
WE
Pacific Coast Air Museum
THINGS TO DO
2230 Becker Blvd., santa rosa
Safari West
3115 Porter Creek road, santa rosa
(707) 575-7900
(707) 579-2551, www.safariwest.com
www.pacificcoastairmuseum.org
Fun for all generations of your family!
“Climb Aboard” vintage aircraft,
Experience the spirit of Africa in the wine
and learn about the history of where and
country on a Safari Adventure or book a tent
how it was used from the crew who has
and sleep overnight in the Animal Kingdom.
lovingly restored it. Currently, the
Riverfront Regional Park
F-14 Tomcat, F-16N Viper & F-5 Tiger II
7821 eastside road, Healdsburg
are featured.
(707) 565-2041
Windsor Golf Club
Once a gravel quarry site, this park now
1340 19th Hole Drive, Windsor
boasts 2 sparkling lakes perfect for fishing
(707) 838-7888, www.windsorgolf.com
and non-motorized boating. Explore redwood
Follow in the footsteps of the pros at this
grove picnic areas and more than 2 miles of
par 72 championship course regarded by
trails around Lake Benoist!
the regulars as a must-play course.
Charles Schulz Museum
Four tee options provide an appropriate
2301 Hardies lane, santa rosa
challenge for any skill level.
(707) 579-4452, www.schulzmuseum.com
Armstrong Redwoods
A tribute to the wonderful man who
17000 armstrong Woods road, Guerneville
brought so much joy to the world with the
707-869-2015, www.parks.ca.gov
"Peanuts" cartoon strip. Finally, a fitting
RODNEY
The ancient coast redwood is the tallest living
place in Charles "Sparky"
Schulz'
STRONG
thing
hometown to preserve, display,
and
John Ash
& Co.on our planet! Come see this stately
Vintners
Inn preserve of trees close to 1,000 years old!
nature
interpret the Peanuts art.
FOOD
John Ash & Co. Restaurant , 4330 Barnes road, santa rosa
(707) 527-7687, www.vintnersinn.com
Celebrate wine cuisine at its best. Cooking seasonally with
fresh, local foods and produce—and pairing these exceptional
recipes with wines from the region, today the restaurant remains an icon of gourmet dining and wine country living.
Gilardi's Delicatessen, 810 Den Beste, Windsor, (707) 838-9869
Certainly a vine above the rest! Feast on homemade lasagna
and freshly baked sourdough garlic breads.
D.
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Airport IRPORT BLVD
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Hilton Sonoma
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Fountain Grove Inn
HOOK & P
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Museum
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Freestone Vineyards
Guest Center
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Russian River
37
Kendall-Jackson Wine Center
In the vineyards of Kendall-Jackson it has always been ers, herbs and vegetables that are used to describe wine. Each
about the fruit. Ask any good vineyard manager or wine- garden also features the produce that pairs well with red or
maker and that is a mantra that rings true, as it has since the white wines.
art of turning grapes into wine began, thousands of years ago.
Guides encourage guests to smell the herbs and flowers,
As they say at Kendall-Jackson, “One of the ‘truths’ we crush the leaves between their fingers and experience the
live by here at the winery is that outstanding wines can only similarities to the aromas found in wine.
be made from exceptional fruit. Our Estate Vineyards are
The Culinary Garden also features a wide array of seafound atop cool coastal mounsonal produce, with varieties of
tains, rocky ridge tops and rolling
basil, and dozens of different
Kendall-Jackson Wine Center
hillsides. Places where the climate,
types of squash and lettuce from
soil and vines come together to
all over the world. Edible flowers
5007 Fulton road, Fulton
create remarkable grapes. In each
and more than 180 varieties of
glass, you will taste our family’s
heirloom tomatoes are also key
(707) 571-8100 • www.kj.com
commitment to crafting extraordicomponents.
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris,
nary Sonoma County wines from
Heirloom tomatoes in every
Riesling, Muscat Canelli, Pinot Noir, Malbec,
California’s best vineyards.”
color of the rainbow are unMerlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
At this magnificent château, set
doubtedly the highlight of the
on 120 acres in the heart of
garden, and the winery celebrates
FUN Don’t miss the Wine Sensory Gardens for
Sonoma County, wine and food
them each year during its annual
FACT white and red wines with plantings that
lovers gather to experience the flaHeirloom Tomato Festival. This
represent the aroma and/or flavor in the wines.
vors of the region. Depending
year’s event takes place on Sepupon your mood, you can enjoy seated wine and food pair- tember 11 and is always a sellout. But the garden tours are
ing, visit the tasting bar (a must), browse for gifts and available three times a day at 11 a.m., 1 and 3 p.m. (weather
limited-edition wines, and tour the vineyards and extensive permitting).
herb, flower and vegetable gardens that surround the
There are many choices for tasting when you visit. The
château. Or you can wander through the White Wine Sen- Classic Tasting is $5 – you can choose four out of eight wines
sory Garden or the Red Wine Sensory Garden. These two to taste. Or, for $15, you can try the Reserve Wines that are
innovative and lovingly tended gardens have been designed only available in the tasting room. But the most extravagant
and planted to show your senses the terms that wine writers choice of all is the Wine & Food Pairing. This is a not-to-beand educators have used to describe what we smell and taste missed occasion. Meet the Chef, taste the wines and learn
in the glass.
more about wine and food pairing. All are a fun and educaThese gardens allow visitors to experience the fruits, flow- tional experience in a beautiful setting. BY CHARLES NEAVE
38 Russian River
Hook & Ladder Winery
Olivet Road is a two-mile strip running through the heart There’s lots of firefighter themes at Hook & Ladder, from the
of the Russian River Valley just 10 minutes west of Highway classic, fully-restored shiny red fire truck circa 1960 that sits
101. For the directionally challenged, make your way over along Olivet Road near the winery’s main driveway, to the fire
to Olivet Road in west Santa Rosa and you can spend a day department patches and t-shirts from firefighters who stop
and decorate the tasting room.
visiting great wineries with an easy blink left or right.
Cecil De Loach is still involved with the daily operations
One family has called Olivet Road home for more than
of Hook & Ladder Winery, but
35 years – the De Loaches. Cecil
second and third generation
De Loach was a firefighter in San
Hook & Ladder Winery and Vineyards the
De Loaches are now taking the
Francisco when, in 1970, he and
Open daily 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
reins. Cecil’s son, Michael, is the
wife, Christine, bought a 24-acre
winery’s president, Cecil’s grandvineyard just west of Santa Rosa.
2134 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa
son, Jason, is the winemaker and
The De Loaches wanted to start
(707) 526-2255 • www.hookandladderwinery.com
Michael’s son, Joshua, is Public
second careers as winegrowers,
Relations and Sales Director.
and by 1975 the De Loaches had
Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc,
The De Loaches keep Hook &
made their first wine. The rest, of
Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon
Ladder to just 35,000-case annual
course, is history: the De Loach
production; they sell a portion of
family went on to build one of the
FUN Look for the shiny red vintage fire truck,
the grapes they grow, keeping just
country’s most successful wine
FACT a Willy’s circa 1961, near the driveway.
the best of the best for Hook &
brands.
In 2003, with the De Loach Vineyards brand producing Ladder Winery.
Hook & Ladder carved out a section of their winery for
300,000 cases annually, the De Loach family decided to start
over. They sold the brand to the Boisset family of Burgundy, the tasting room, “keeping it simple to help keep our prices
keeping 375 acres of prime Russian River Valley vineyards down,” says Michael De Loach. What’s great at Hook & Ladand a second brand, Hook & Ladder, they had started 20 der is that prices are wallet-friendly and quality is sky-high.
years earlier with a Port. At the beginning of 2004, Hook & Hook & Ladder hit gold big at this year’s San Francisco
Ladder opened their doors north on Olivet Road, fittingly on Chronicle Wine Competition, winning two Gold Medals for
part of the first property the family purchased in 1970, the Merlot and Zinfandel and Double Gold and a Best of Class for
their Third Alarm Reserve Pinot Noir and Double Gold for
Barbieri Ranch.
The Hook & Ladder name came from Cecil De Loach’s their Sauvignon Blanc. Those medals, among others, affirm
many years as a San Francisco firefighter operating the back that the De Loaches are still making great wine after all these
end of the fire truck as The Tillerman. Cecil retired in 1982. years.
Russian River
39
What makes visiting wine country so much fun is combination of a nutrient-poor yet well-draining base
that, no matter how many times you visit, there’s always to thrive. Not long after the Duttons first planted
a new winery to discover. For some visitors there’s even grapes, the Dutton Ranch name became synonymous
a whole new wine region to explore, and all you have with great Chardonnay.
Fast forward to today, and the Dutton family farms
to do is ignite your spirit of adventure, fire up the GPS
or take out a good map, and you’ll be richly rewarded. more than 1,100 acres of grapes in the Green Valley as well
as 250 acres of CCOF certified
Out in southwest Sonoma
organic apples. Warren’s son,
County is one such area just
Joe and his wife, Tracy Dutton,
waiting to be discovered – the
first started producing wine in
scenic, rolling Green Valley
1995 and started their boutique
appellation. Green Valley is the
8757 Green Valley Road, Sebastopol
winery called Dutton Estate
foggiest and coolest wine
(707) 829-9463 • www.sebastopolvineyards.com
which showcases wines made
appellation along the North
Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,
from their best grapes.
Coast. While summer days in
Syrah, Zinfandel, Late Harvest Zinfandel
The Duttons hang their
Green Valley are warm like the
tasting
room shingle at a
rest of wine country, the cool,
FUN Tracy Dutton’s mother is co-owner of the multiquaint
and
cozy bungalow in
foggy mornings and evenings
FACT generation Kozlowski Farms who are well known
front
of
the
winery at the
here create the perfect climate
for producing and growing specialty foods since 1948 and is
corner of Highway 116 and
for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
located only 1 mile north from Dutton Estate Winery.
Green Valley Road in Sebastopol.
grapes.
Dutton Estate’s wines are
There’s no family more connected to the history of Green Valley than the Duttons, exclusively from the Dutton family’s vineyard spread out
who began farming in Sonoma County in 1881. War- through the Green Valley.
Two tasting flights are available in the tasting room,
ren Dutton began his farming endeavors out of downtown
Graton growing apples and recognized before anyone else Reserve and Estate tastings, both featuring selections of
the viticulture potential of the Green Valley area. In 1967, single-vineyard estate wines with eye-popping ratings in
Warren planted the first Chardonnay grapes in western the 90s from a variety of wine publications.
Dutton Estate focuses its production on Chardonnay
Sonoma County and the Green Valley. Green Valley
turned out to be a world-class spot for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but also offers Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah,
due to the cool climate as well as the area’s special soil and an occasional surprise such as Zinfandel and
type, Goldridge, that provides grapevines the ideal Late Harvest Zinfandel.
40 Russian River
Suncé Winery
Suncé, meaning “sun” in Serbo-Croatian, is located in the ing counter] – with no motor, just oars, to take barrels of wine
heart of the Russian River Valley appellation where open pas- to market. It was hard work, but satisfying.”
Once inside their cozy tasting room, a wide array of vinetures and olive trees once dominated the landscape, old
head-pruned Zinfandel vines now quietly assert their beauty. yard-designated wines await you, beginning with the
Nestled in this serene setting, Suncé Winery is the ideal place un-wooded Sauvignon Blanc steeped with ripe Asian pear
to take a picnic, play some bocce, stroll the estate Pinot Noir fruit and clean, crisp acidity. Moving into the reds, start with
the Russian River Valley Zora’s Esvineyard then chat with the winetate Pinot Noir (named after the
maker, Frane Franicevic.
Suncé Winery
Franicevic’s oldest daughter), a
Franicevic is much more than
Open daily 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m.
bold Burgundy-style Pinot full of
satisfied these days to be able to
1839 Olivet Road, Santa Rosa
cherry cola, allspice and raspbermake wine at his Olivet Road win(707) 526-9463 • www.suncewinery.com
ries. Also not to be missed are the
ery. When he was 17 the family
old-vine Zins, especially since
moved to Louisiana, where an
Check the website to get on their wine club waiting list.
uncle ran a shrimp boat a la For- Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Barbera, Zinfandel, Frane shares his origins with this
varietal, both of them Croatian
rest Gump. When the uncle was
Nebbiolo, Petite Sirah, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec,
born. The Bastoni Vineyard Zinkilled in a tragic accident, Frane
Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre and Tempranillo
fandel is reminiscent of its old
and his father took over the boat
FUN Suncé tasting room features a cozy picnic area world origins, brimming with
for a couple of years. Frane then atFACT with bocce courts. Perfect to come stay for a while. brambly, luscious blackberries
tended West Georgia University
and laced with cracked black
then moved to San Francisco to
take his PhD in East-West Philosophy from the California In- pepper. Not to be missed is the four-time Double Gold Medal
stitute of Integral Studies. “I practiced hypnotherapy here in winning Nebbiolo (something of a domestic Barrolo) – a colSanta Rosa – it’s a great way to open one’s receptivity to heal- lector’s wine that Suncé Winery owner and manager Janae
Franicevic says: “touches places on the palate that have not
ing – but was always making wine at home.”
“I grew up in Croatia, in the small fishing village of Sucu- been touched, statistically speaking that is, if it ever makes it
raj, on the northern tip of the island of Hvar in the Adriatic out of the vineyard (it’s more difficult to grow than Pinot
Sea,” says Suncé Frane. “That’s on the Dalmatian Coast of Noir) it can have the perfect balance of acid, tannins and pH.”
Nearly all of Sunce’s highly sought after releases are limCroatia, and I helped my father pick grapes and olives for as
long as I can remember. My parents made wine for the fam- ited to 200-400 cases (12-16 barrels) each and are sold
ily, but my grandparents were in the trade. They had a boat directly to wine club members, through the tasting room, or
– there is a painting of it [pointing to the wall behind the tast- right out of the barrel before they’re ever bottled.
Russian River
41
Martin Ray Winery
The Martin Ray Winery is an ambitious amalgam of la- Santa Cruz Mountain to the south are three of the most presbels and wines, all housed in one of Sonoma County’s tigious vineyard locations for Martin Ray grapes.
As you plan to visit Martin Ray, try to allow extra time for
history-packed winemaking facilities. Here’s its story in a nutshell, related because it helps you understand the different a tour of the historic production facilities as well as extensive
labels and the winemaking philosophy behind each. (There’s tasting. The scenic drive there on winding roads is a fascia lot of good stuff to taste at Martin Ray, so you will need to nating combination of forests and vineyards. You’ll know
you’ve reached the winery when
pick and choose.)
you see the large water tower that
The man behind it all is ProMartin Ray Winery
dominates the skyline at the
prietor Courtney Benham, a
winery. Picnic tables and chairs
third-generation San Joaquin Valoutside the tasting room look
ley winemaker who knew he
2191 Laguna Road, Santa Rosa
over verdant hills and vineyards.
wanted to own a winery himself.
(707) 823-2404 • www.martinraywinery.com
Colorful flower boxes surround
In 1990, he discovered a treasure
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Dry Rosé,
the tasting room.
trove of old library wines with the
Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
Here’s what’s available: Angelabel of Martin Ray, a Santa Cruz
line-label wines, modestly priced,
Mountains winemaker. Courtney
FUN One of the oldest historical winery sites in
fruit-forward wines with screw
bought the rights to the Martin
FACT California – wander through the cellar and
caps for picnic ease; Martin Ray
Ray name and later, in 2003, pursee 10,000 gallon old-growth redwood tanks.
wines, with more structure and
chased the historic Martini-Prati
vineyard character; Martin Ray
Winery in western Sonoma
County; these buildings and property have become home to Reserve wines, all vineyard designates; and Courtney Benham wines, limited-production offerings from some of
the Martin Ray line of wines.
One common thread that has run consistently through California’s most interesting wine regions, such as Sauvignon
all of the history of these wines is the acknowledgement that Blanc from Lake County and Lucca, a big red wine from Paso
vineyard location is crucial to the character and quality of Robles. All the classic wine varietals are represented here,
wine. At Martin Ray, there is a special emphasis on moun- from Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon to Merlot, Riestain-grown wines, because of Benham’s conviction that ling, Malbec and Pinot Noir.
The friendly tasting room staff can suggest interesting
mountain-side elevation provides cooler nights during the
growing season and therefore results in longer “hang time” wines to taste side by side so you can compare the difference
on the vines for superb fruit ripeness. Diamond Mountain in between, say, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma Mountain
BY NAN REILEY
Napa Valley, Sonoma Mountain in Sonoma County and the and one from Alexander Valley.
42
Russian River
Russian Hill Estate
Russian Hill Estate Winery is a family-owned and oper- and cat, Kiri and Ruska. (Both animals, by the way, have offiated newcomer to Russian River Valley. Husband-and-wife cial job functions at the winery aside from acting as greeters:
team Edward Gomez and Ellen Mack began searching for they are in charge of the Integrated Pest Management proproperty in the area in the mid-1990s, knowing they wanted gram, specializing in chasing birds away from the ripening
to make Pinot Noir and well aware that Russian River Valley grapes and catching little critters that could damage the vines.)
Inside the tasting room, although you may be entranced by
had already established an outstanding reputation as the prethe views, you’ve come to taste
miere region for growing these
Patrick’s delicious wines. The wingrapes. In 1997, they purchased a
Russian Hill Estate
ery is dedicated to Pinot Noir and
property that had a home on it, but
Open Daily 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Syrah, but Patrick also makes two
no vineyards. In the ensuing years,
excellent white wines – Chardonthey have planted vineyards, built
4525 Slusser Road, Windsor
nay from one of the prestigious
a winery and, under the winemak(707) 575-9428 • www.russianhillestate.com
Dutton Ranch vineyards, and an
ing leadership of their nephew
estate-grown Viognier. Now for
Patrick Melley, have created their
Pinot Noir, Syrah, Chardonnay
the Pinot Noirs! Patrick currently
own reputation for excellence in
FUN Did you know that Russian Hill's tasting room has five Pinots from different RussPinot Noir and, perhaps uniquely,
FACT was originally a dog kennel? Maybe that
ian River Valley vineyards. This is
for a delicious cool-climate Syrah.
is why Russian Hill is so dog friendly!
an outstanding opportunity to
You owe it to yourself to visit
taste the difference that vineyard
Russian Hill Winery to sample
Patrick’s award-winning wines. A second good reason to visit location makes in the wine. All are classic Pinot Noirs, howis to enjoy the stupendous views of one of Sonoma County’s ever, with rich cherry-raspberry and sweet spice flavors.
The real surprise of the tasting may well be Patrick’s coolmost enchanting regions. Why not bring your lunch to enjoy
here? Russian Hill is set in the midst of rolling hills with climate Syrah. This red Rhône grape has become very popular
panoramic views in all directions, but it is isolated in the sense in the last few years, and in style tends almost always to be a
that there are no delis or restaurants nearby, and you won’t big, ripe, jammy fruit bomb. The Russian Hill offering is much
more elegant and restrained, exhibiting a characteristic ripe,
want to hurry away once you’ve arrived.
Drive up a winding driveway lined with olive trees to the black fruit and spice flavor, but smooth and deeply rich, with
tasting room and winery. The stately, pale-yellow buildings sit soft tannins that come from extended bottle ageing before reatop a hill covered with vineyards, and the tasting room has lease. Choose your favorite wine and enjoy a bottle with your
windows that let you admire the scenery while you sip your picnic on the covered outdoor patio while you revel in the
BY NAN REILEY
wine. You will probably be met by the de rigeur winery dog beauty of Russian River Valley.
Russian River
43
Petaluma
Petaluma is one of the oldest best preserved historic cities in all of California! Downtown (as a
whole) is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. A charming riverfront town, Petaluma is
filled with Victorian homes and Iron Front buildings. Darling boutiques and delicious restaurants
fill in between old bookstores, cafes, and businesses. Petaluma is a delightful place to visit as well
as a place to live. Only 32 miles from San Francisco, Petaluma is a central City for exploring 195
wineries in Sonoma County, the redwoods, Point Reyes National Seashore, Bodega Bay, and the entire north Bay area in general.
Not to scale
Lagunitas
Brewing Co.
M
cD
OW
EL
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101
BL
VD
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ALU
PET
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TO
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LAKEVILLE HWY
Graziano’s
Trolley 2ND STRE
ET
Museum
to McIvoy Ranch
L
101
Y
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Spring Hill
Cheese
KY
UC
NT
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OW
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HI
DN
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RED UMBRELLA
Volpi’s
Restaurant Consignment
ERN
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BLV
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BODEGA HWY
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SONOMA VALLEY
PORTWORKS
PE
TALU
Sheraton
MA B
LVD
SOU
TH
Mrs. Grossman’s
Sticker Factory
KELLER
ESTATE
WINERY
THINGS TO DO:
Red Umbrella Consignment
120 a Kentucky street, Petaluma
(707) 778-3499, www.redumbrellaconsignment.com
Select from an ever changing array of "shabby chic" antiques, furniture and home decor or browse high-quality,
women's consignment clothing (sizes 0-16).
Mrs. Grossman’s Paper Company
3810 Cypress Drive, Petaluma
(707) 763-1700, www.mrsgrossmans.com
The woman who created the red heart sticker and “stickermania!” has her own shop of exquisite paper, invitations, and
stickers in Petaluma. Delight in every corner!
Spring Hill Cheese, 621 Western ave, Petaluma
(707) 762-3446, www.springhillcheese.com
All Natural, 100% Fresh Cultured Grade A Jersey Milk, Salt
and Enzymes... That's It! No Artificial Hormones.
Petaluma Trolley Museum
20 Fourth street, Petaluma, (707) 778-7878
Seee the trolleys that once provided a direct link between
Petaluma and booming San Francisco starting in 1904.
McEvoy Ranch, 5935 red Hill road, Petaluma
(707) 778.2307, www.mcevoyranch.com
An organic olive farm specializing in exceptionally fine
olive oils and nursery tree sales. An Orchard walk and Mill
tour begins at 10am, followed by an olive oil tasting. $30,
and well worth it! By appointment only.
Lagunitas Brewing Company
1280 North mcDowell Boulevard, Petaluma
(707) 769-4495, www.lagunitas.com
Brewed the “old school” way with only water, hops, and
malted barley, Lagunitas is one of the finest micro-breweries
in wine country. A refreshing stop for any guest!
FOOD
Graziano’s Ristorante
170 Petaluma Blvd. North, Petaluma
(707) 762-5997, www.grazianosristorante.com
An Italian-born chef, who learned from his Mamma,
prepares dishes with the same flair, passion, and love.
Volpi's Ristorante & Bar
124 Washington street, Petaluma, (707) 765-0695
A local favorite … delicious Italian food served family style –
complete with red-checked tablecloths and dripping candles
in Chianti bottles.
44
LODGING
Sheraton, 745 Baywood Drive, Petaluma
(707) 283-2888, www.starwoodhotels.com
Cozy and comfortable, this hotel sits on the marina, adjacent
to the wetlands and walking trails of Shollenberger Park.
Petaluma
Keller Estate
Keller Estate graces the emerald hilltops of Petaluma. out the Old World, cellars were a special place in a famDairy cows graze, vines wrap quietly through the sloping ily’s home, a place where food, wine and valuable
hills, and green, wide open spaces of the valley floor capture commodities were kept and passed on from family to
that quiet place within yourself.
family. The Keller family’s Coat of Arms, which is printed
Keller Estate is known for Pinots and Chardonnays. It’s on labels, represents the cellar guard, who guards his
a maverick winery, the first to plant vines and open its prized treasures with a well-kept key. The colors of Switzerdoors in the mineral rich, dense
land fly proudly next to the key.
soils of the Petaluma hillside. In
It seemed fitting to name this
Keller Estate
fact, owner Arturo Keller was acwinery “Keller Estate,” harking
Open Thursday-sunday 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
tively discouraged from planting
back to this family’s profession
5875 Lakeville Highway, Petaluma
vines of any kind in this region
as the keeper of the treasures
(707) 765 2117 • www.kellerestate.com
only a few decades ago. Today,
for your cellar.
Keller Estate reigns supreme
Owner Arturo and wife
Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Rosé,
over west Carneros wines.
Deborah planted their first
Syrah, Precioso Chardonnay,
It’s easy to get lost in the buvines (Chardonnay) in 1989.
Precioso
Pinot
Noir and La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir
colic scenery, but it is not just
The grapes sold for many vinFUN The architecturally stunning winery is considered
the expansive views of some of
tages to Rombauer, who found
FACT one of the most beautiful wineries in Sonoma County. the minerality and depth of
California’s pristine agricultural
and coastal lowlands, but the
flavors the Chardonnay fruit
tasting room itself that is a startling, refreshing experi- contributed to their wines. In 1998, daughter Ana joined
ence. The room looms wide and tall with local rock, her father and embraced the daunting task of building a
cavernous atmosphere, and exposed, hand-hewn beams. new winery.
Yet tasting at Keller is an intimate experience. The tasting
Succeed they did! In 2000, Keller Estate was established.
bar itself is on the smaller side and exceedingly knowl- Working alongside Ted Lemon, the Keller family worked
edgeable, friendly staff are ready to pour delicious wines. at making the vineyards exceptional and designed a
Go to the “Trade” page of the Keller website to find winery that emphasized elements of ease and gravity flow
original recipes to pair with your Keller Estate wines.
to preserve the delicate flavors in the wine. The winery,
The Keller Family’s origins lie in the small town of designed by Mexican architect Ricardo Legoretta was
Aarau in Switzerland. The Keller last name originates completed in 2003 and is among the most beautiful
from the German word for “cellar.” For centuries through- wineries in Sonoma County.
BY ABIGAIL ZIMMERMAN
Petaluma
45
Got a sweet tooth? Feeling a bit decadent and naughty? dessert wines. Something else to note is that they press their
Let me tell you about a delicious, almost secret place in varietal Ports by foot for the gentlest extraction of flavors posPetaluma. It’ll be between you and me – don’t tell…
sible. Talk about old-world style winemaking!
Sonoma Valley Portworks is a sweet secret indeed, one
I met with Bill Reading, owner and winemaker of this
that you simply must check out, even if Ports and dessert unique place. His enthusiasm and passion about what he does
wines are only an occasional indulgence for you.
is infectious. This man loves what he does and it is a pleasure
Located in the Foundry
and an interesting education to
Wharf – a cool little enclave of
chat with him about his wines and
artist’s studios, industrial buildwinemaking techniques. He is
Open monday-saturday, Noon to 5 p.m.
ings, restaurants and shops on
happy to spend lots of time with
613 Second Street, Petaluma
the river in Petaluma, Sonoma
each visitor, explaining the wines
Valley Portworks is a fascinating
and giving private tours of the fa(707) 769-5203 • www.portworks.com
and delicious destination. The
cility and surrounding area.
Deco Port; A3 Muscat; Maduro, an older wood-aged Port;
tasting room is cozy and comThe wines at Sonoma Valley
two varietal Ports: Aris Petite Sirah and Aris Petit Verdot;
fortable, housed in a building
Portworks are fabulous (in my
Duet, an after-dinner sherry; and two Petite Sirah Grappas
constructed in the early 1900s.
humble opinion)! I was fortunate
Open-beam ceilings provide an
enough to taste the following
FUN Sonoma Valley Portworks presses their varietal
airy feel and the tasting bar is
FACT Ports by foot for the gentlest extraction of flavors. wines:
about as authentic as it can be –
Deco Port ($18): This sumpit’s a thick wooden plank suptuous wine is a chocoholics dream
ported by three sturdy barrels. Behind the tasting bar, more – aromas of dark chocolate, caramel, baking spices and ripe
barrels create a rustic backdrop. To further add to the com- berry are enhanced by a touch of earthiness. These aromas
fortable, authentic appeal of this place, gnarly old vines, continue as flavors in the decadently rich, balanced mouth.
draped with tiny white lights circle the perimeter of the room.
A3 Muscat ($30): In a word, yum! Aromas and flavors of
Sonoma Valley Portworks is the only winery in Sonoma roses, cinnamon potpourri, candied orange peel and ginger
County that specializes in Ports and dessert wines, and one abound, all wrapped up in a luscious, sexy mouthfeel.
of only a handful in California that does so. They are also the
Wine tasting is always complimentary here, and on Satonly winery in California that is licensed to import wine from urdays, the wines are paired with with cheeses or dessert
Australia to use in the production of several of their Ports and items. What a sweet deal! BY SUE STRAIGHT, THE WINE WENCH
46 Petaluma
Sonoma County Wine Tasting off Highway 101
DRY CREEK
4
Papapietro Perry Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
A blend of fun-loving friends who wanted to drink
Pinot daily so they made it themselves!
Ferrari-Carano Vineyards & Winery . . . . . . . .6
One of the most acclaimed wineries in the country,
Ferrari-Carano's wines benefit from an extremely
labor-intensive vineyard program and two owners'
beliefs in a great glass of wine over financial gain.
Dry Creek Vineyard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
The first new winery in all of Dry Creek after the
end of Prohibition! Dry Creek paved the way for a
whole new era of winemaking in Sonoma Valley.
Truett Hurst Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
A super cool, very eco-conscious winery specializing
in Zinfandels and Petite Sirahs with more than 26
acres of organic gardens and vineyards. The very
best of Dry Creek Valley!
Forchini Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
From estate pruned to estate bottled, Forchini is a definitely
“hands on” wine-house that produces elegant barrel-aged
wines from their historic vineyards in Dry Creek and
Russian River Valleys.
WESTSIDE ROAD
10
Alderbrook Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11
A long-time favorite for all visitors to Sonoma
County, rural Alderbrook is best known for their
award-winning Pinots and Zinfandels.
Armida Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12
Few wineries offer fine, hand-crafted wines and
sweeping, glorious views of the Russian River Valley!
Matrix Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13
Enjoy amazing Pinot Noirs in the “Sip Sip Lounge,”
where the Matrix WInery invites you to sit back,
savor its wines and literally, watch the grapes grow!
Hop Kiln Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
Sine 1976, Hop Kiln has been known for their
striking proprietary blends. Don’t miss the picnicperfect “Thousand Flowers” (a white wine blend)
and “Big Red,” Hop Kiln’s epic Zinfandel blend.
Moshin Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Once a math teacher at San Jose State, Rick Moshin
turned his family’s dream of “one-day” and with a
lot of elbow grease, created this unique winery specializing in small-lot, hand-crafted Pinots,
Chardonnays and Zinfandels.
EASTSIDE BUNCH
16
Rodney Strong Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17
Rodney Strong is a well-deserved household name
for delicious, consistent wines with big appeal.
Christopher Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
A small, family-owned winery, Christopher Creek
produces only about 4,000 cases of sumptuous,
hearty reds, Chardonnay and Port.
Acorn Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19
Dolcetto! Zinfandel! Sangiovese! Oh My!
A classic, family-owned winery known for producing wonderfully approachable, food-friendly field
blends. Open by appointment only.
Merriam Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
World-class Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc. Winning numerous awards, Merriam offers some of the finest varietals in the
Russian River.
Foppiano Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21
Steeped in Russian River history for more than 100
years, the Foppiano family story confirms the ageold value of persistence and commitment to dreams.
Each bottle reflects a family determined to bring
you the finest bounty from their vineyards and soil.
Christie Vineyards . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22
Established only in 2003, word of mouth spread
quickly to build a well-deserved buzz around this
family-owned and operated wine boutique and winery. Buy a bottle or literally, buy your own barrel!
GATEWAY TO ALEXANDER VALLEY
23
Simi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Good taste and innovation have long been hallmarks of Simi wines. Come see for yourself and
enjoy delectable foods and fine wines.
Clos du Bois . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
A classic, nationally-recognizable brand, Clos du
Bois produces classic wines that are accessible, refined and easy to drink.
Trentadue Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
Trentadue is a visitor's delight. Take a gondola
tour of Trentadue’s carefully maintained vineyards, learn about the vines and sample 6 wines
along the way. A must see!
Geyser Peak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
One of California's oldest wineries, Geyser Peak provides finely crafted wines from one of the most
diverse appellations in the nation.
deLormier . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
A long-time favorite for reds, whites and dessert
wines, DeLormier's new vineyard designate Cabernet's have already won several gold medals. A sure
treat for your taste buds.
Sausal Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29
Sausal, Known for having the oldest Zinfandel
vines in all of Alexander Valley, Sausal is best
known for their Estate, Old Vine and even Century
Vine Zinfandels.
DOWNTOWN HEALDSBURG
30
Kendall Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32
Take a break from the bistros and galleries around
the downtown Healdsburg Square and stop in the
Kendall Jackson Tasting Room. Only here can
you taste all of the label's premier Grand Reserve,
Highland Estates and Stature wines!
Topel Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .33
Soulful reds that perfectly reflect the soil and climates of their Biodynamic and organic origins.
Prohibition, The Speak Easy Wine Club . . . .34
Finish your day of wine tasting with a “Bang!” in
this 1920s speakeasy wine bar. Discover some new
cult labels or microbrews. Enter through a 1930s
phone booth at the rear of the wine shop – just lift up
the receiver and the rear panel swings open.
Seghesio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35
Grandfather Edoardo Seghesio planted his first
Zinfandel grapes in 1895. True to form, four generations of Seghesio family have tended more than
400 acres to continue to produce distinct Zinfandel
and Italian varietals.
Selby Winery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
Owner & Winemaker Susie Selby makes wine in
honor of her father, Dr. David Selby. Only making
wines, she would love to drink, Susie has created a
wine label both poignant and especially delicious!
Don't miss her new Sauvignon Blanc release!
RUSSIAN RIVER
37
Kendall-Jackson . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38
Kendall-Jackson has been pleasing customers and
filling glasses throughout our great country for
decades.
Hook & Ladder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .39
What can you expect from a retired San Francisco
firefighter and his wife? Exceptional wines, from
the highest quality grapes, that people love to drink!
Dutton Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
What began with a hand shake in 1998 between
friends, has grown into a small, winery powerhouse
specializing in Chardonnays, Pinots and Zinfandel.
Suncé . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
“Suncé” is Croatian for sun, the source of all things
wonderful... like each bottle of Suncé wine!
Martin Ray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
The Martin Ray Tasting Room dates back to the
early 1900s and was a bunkhouse for Italian immigrants working the harvest and crush. This winery
is the longest continually operating winery in
Sonoma County and even stayed open during Prohibition by selling sacramental wine to Rabbis in
New York under the label "Martini & Prati."
Russian Hill Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Did you know that Russian Hill's Tasting Room
was originally a dog kennel? Newcomers to winemaking, owners Edward Gomez and Ellen Mack
have developed a sterling reputation for vineyard
designate Pinot Noirs from the Russian River and
more recently, a cool-climate Syrah.
PETALUMA
44
Keller Estate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
Go for the classic cars on display and stay for
the cold climate Syrah and steel fermented
Chardonnay. One of Sonoma's best kept secrets!
Sonoma Valley Portworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .46
Producing the finest Ports, Grappa, and dessert
wines from hand-selected California grapes only
available in Northern California wine country.
47

off Highway 101 - Wine Country This Week

Transcription

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