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N° and issue date : 116 - 01/09/2013
Circulation : 1164831
Frequency : Monthly
TravelST_116_109_6.pdf
Page : 109
Size : 100 %
12390 cm2
Website: http://www.sunday-times.co.uk
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Copyright (Travel - Sunday Times)
No reproduction without authorisation
1754V.
,ra
Metropolitan Touring
N° and issue date : 116 - 01/09/2013
Frequency : Monthly
Page : 110
Size : 100 %
12390 cm2
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-Nipper
he. * Mos
LESSER CYCLADES_
GREEK ISLANDS
Dive in :There are few more gratifying
ways of earning an evening ouzo than
islandhopping
in the Aegean without a boat Join
a small pod of swimmers plus a guide and
the occasional curious monk seal as you
freestyle a daily average of threekilometres
between scattered tourist-sparse spots in
the Lesser Cyclades Approaching land you
navigate through clear calm waters past
scorched-earth cliffs where spectating
mountain goats perch and float through
cool caves around the coasts of islands such
asFidousa and lraklia Pitch up on empty
golden beaches perfect for recharging before
accessing the interiors of these lesser-visited
islands Feeling tired? A boat which carries your
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luggage and trained staff is always on
hand should you need a rest en route.
Lucky dip Streamline your technique with
specialised open-water coaching from an
instructor offered on the firstfull day of this trip.
Dry off Swimming done stay on the main island
of Naxos Reward yourself with sometaverna
time in the hillside village of Halki or if you still
have the energy take the three-hour hike up
Mount Zeus.
Get there The seven-day Greek Cyclades
swimming tour costs from £840pp half board
through SwimTrek ( 01273 739713 swimtrek.
corn ) The tourstarts in Naxos Aegean Airlines
0871 200 0040 aegeanair.com )flies to Athens
from Heathrow from £112 return From Athens
sail to Naxoswith Blue StarFerries ( 00 30 210 891
9800 bluestarferries.com from £60 return.
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N° and issue date : 116 - 01/09/2013
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"" PELLS POOL
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11114 Dive in Every town
should have a lido like the Pells
01273 472334 pellspool.org.uk
adults £4 children £2 It' s Britain' s
oldest freshwater pool ( 152 years
and counting fed by a nearby
spring and ona hot summer' s day
it achieves aquamarine perfection
its long wide deep and cool.
After a few frantic moments
getting usedto the temperature
the water is unheated you'
notice those vivid colours the
bluegrey sky the dark green branches
of cedars limes and beeches
behind the emeraldlawn itself
splashed with bright towels pink
bodies and a rainbow-coloured
kiosk And the soundtrack? The
delighted squeals ofyoungsters
thrilled to be in the water even on
the briskest summer' s day.
Lucky dip The pool is almost
Olympic-sized providing space
for children to splash wildly in the
shallow end while adults power
along in the deep But since it
is so wide younger kids may
appreciate a float to hang on to.
Dry off Closeby the pool is
Lewes Castle and Museum
sussexpast.co.uk adults £6.80
children £3.50 with views across
Sussex from the battlements and
a knightly dressing box for kids.
Getthere Pelham House ( 01273
488600 pelhamhouse.com has
doubles from £80 B&B Or stay in
Brighton a 20-minute drive away.
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Lucky dip Swim to the pool s
edge after 6pm and you' get a
unique crowd-free view of the
Dubai Fountainshow taking place
every half-hour directly below.
Dry off See where you' ve swum
from At The Top the 124th-floor
viewing gallery of theBurj Khalifa
burjkhalifa.ae £22 or shop for
swimwear to match the experience
in the behemoth Dubai Mall next
door ( thedubaimall.com ).
Get there Kuoni ( 01306 747008
kuoni.co.uk has threenights at
The AddressDowntown Dubai
from £948pp B&B including
Heathrow flights and transfers.
Use of thepool for non-hotel
guests is £70 ( 00 971 4 436 8888
theaddress.com / en / hotel /
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DECEPTION
ISLAND ,
ANTARCTIC PENINSULA
Dive in Actually don' t If ever
a beach called for the gingerly
one-toe-at-a-time approach it's
this apocalyptically bleak black
icy one on the Antarctic Peninsula
where the water temperature can
vary between 70°C ( due to
geothermal heating by the
underwater volcano and -2°C
due to thisbeing Antarctica Find
yourself a spot mix the hot and
cold to taste and splash into the
admiration of everyone you regale
with the story in years to come.
Lucky dip Stick your camera
down someone' s bra Batteries
lose power in seconds in the
sub-zero air here sokeeping
them wrapped up warmunder
clothes " and close to a bit of
body heat" is your bestbet for
getting that shot of you in your
bikini in the Southern Ocean.
Dry off Deception Island wasthe
centre of the Antarctic whaling
industry and a hike round it reveals
the rusting hulks of old whaling
boats " hauntingly incongruous in
this vast white wilderness.
Get there Exodus ( 0845 805
0358 exodus.co.uk has a
12-night Antarctic trip featuring
Deception Island ( weather
permitting from £3 ,700pp
including cruise meals and
guiding but not flights >
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THE ADDRESS
DOWNTOWN
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DUBAI UAE
Dive in It' s good tohave a point
of reference to keep your
backstroke straight and this
third-floor series of outdoor
terraced pools boasts a marker
that' s impossible to lose sight of
the world s tallest building the
Burj Khalifa extends 828m into
the sky like the raised finger of an
encouraging swimming instructor.
Not that you' ll feel like doing too
many lengths in these soothing
30°C waters The connected ,
curving infinity pools invite
relaxation with whirlpools shady
white canopies and poolside
loungers tucked under the palms.
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Times Travel 111
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12390 cm2
""
"
titititi
"
111411111
Proper
Romance Cities
Views
Hidden Wildlife
" BLUE BAY
asyou backstroke to the sound of
tinny music blaring from the
attendant's boombox.
Dry off This is a singularly
unlovely area along the Seine.
opposite the high-rise national
library so unless you want to
browse the archives walk west
along the river towards the Eiffel
Tower and the Jardin des Plantes
jardindesplantes.net free a leafy
Left Bank oasis to explore the
maze and smell the roses.
Get there Eurostar ( 08432
186186 eurostar.com has trains
from London St Pancras to Paris
from £69 return Hotel Original
00 33 1 47 009150 hoteloriginal
paris.com has doubles from £137.
room only Entry to
Pool ( 00 33 1 56 619650
equipement.paris.fr
piscinejosephine-baker-2930 costs
from £4.25 for two hours.
Divein The mega-hotels
Dive
tius have claimed as many
:
in Maur
of the perfect
stretches of sandas they
can"which is why Blue Bay in the
south is so special This calm
stretch looks as perfect as the
name suggests and because
it' s public your little ones can
runwild without hotel guests
turning up their noses.
Lucky dip Avoid Sundays when
Mauritius' s public beaches are at
their busiest The rest of the
week you' share the bay with
a few sari-clad families picnicking
in the shade sothe shallows will
be all yours to splash about in.
Dry off Definitely not for
swimming but well worth a visit
cliff-backed Gris Gris beach is also
in the south but here the waves
are wild angry and mesmerising.
It' s the perfect spot for a stroll
"the kids will love playing chicken
with the breakers and hunting for
shells in the golden sand.
Get there Air Mauritius (020 1434
4375 airmauritius.com flies from
Heathrow from £741 return.
LOiseau du Paradis ( 00 230 631
5496 oiseauduparadis.com
)is a
cute B&B with access to Blue Bay
and doubles from £52 B&B.
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POOL PARIS
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Dive in There' s something
pleasingly improbable about
swimming properly (not just
plunge-pool dipping on a barge
moored in the Seine But banish
thoughts of an orderly front crawl
down these municipal 25m lanes
"this is Paris where pool
etiquette n' existe pas Splash kick
ordo your own water ballet in
tribute to the pool s namesake
who scandalised 1920s Paris in
La Revue Negre When the sun
shines the roof retracts fight for
lounger space or gossip poolside
with the pouting lifeguards.
Lucky dip Usually open from
7am to 9pm ( check the website
as times change twice weekly
the pool stays open until 11pm.
Discover the perfect Paris match
gazing up at the moon overhead
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INTERCONTINENTAL
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Dive in :Wave to the ( imaginary
crowds in the viewing stands nod
to the statue of Neptune and
gaze at the Spanish tiles as you
come up for air during your
morning exertions A swim here
is a backstroke with drama Built
in 1929 as the crowning glory of
the Medinah Athletic Club this
Moorish-tinged pool on the
14th floor of the Intercontinental
has an air of excess about it.
Prohibition-era Chicago' s great
and not-so-good ( we' re talking
the time of Capone used to
come here to watch Olympic
swimmer-turned-Tarzan actor
Johnny Weissmuller train Eight
decades on hotel guests bask
in the reflected glory as they
do serious laps ( this isn' t a play
pool in the demarcated lanes
although thankfully no longer
under the gaze of gangsters.
Lucky dip Not staying at the
Intercontinental? Then pootle up
to Oak Street Beach a few blocks
north for a swim with a skyline
view Brace yourself however"
the waters of Lake Michigan
aren' t known for their warmth.
Dry off The John Hancock
Observatory ( jhochicago.com
£18 "the fourth-tallest tower in
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dowdy by comparison Found
only in Australia the
' weedy seadragons' " so
named because they resemble
a cross between wispy seaweed
and the legendary fire-breathers
are the most flamboyant
inhabitants of Port Phillip Bay
near Melbourne The usually calm
waters here make for effortless
snorkelling with
reefs and mane-likekelp
bedsproviding obvious viewing
spots for dragon-hunters.
You' not see swarms of these
creatures even if they are here.
Out of water their reddish-yellow
bodies with vibrantpurple
speckles seem almost garish
but they' re perfectly camouflaged
against the seabed When you
finally catch sight of one drifting
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PLAGE MALA
CAP D AIL COTE
D AZUR FRANCE
Dive in It' s a 15-minute descent
down 237 cliff-carved steps to
the pebbly curve at Plage Mala
but it' s worth it The shimmering
Med dazzlesjust like its
blingcoated regulars
Surrounded by
steep precipices the whispering
water is parfait for a gentle
breaststroke Or bypass the
pedalos and head for a snorkel in
the giant cove to the right Rattan
runners lead you back from the
shallows to the two private beach
clubs" LEden or La Reserve
lounger hire £19 per day settle
at the bar for a sexy sundowner
before the hike back up the path.
Lucky dip While the in-crowd
dries off and heads for the clubs.
take a moonlit dip beneath a sky
of twinkling stars " it' s probably
the only time you' ll have the
water to yourself.
Dry off It' s an hour east along
the snaky stone path to Monaco
but the seaside views are
staggering Time it for late
afternoonwhen the sun is
less scorching.
Get there EasyJet 0843 104
5000 easyjet.com flies from
Heathrow to Nice from £68
return Stay at the nearby Hotel
de Monaco (00 33 4 92 413100
hoteldemonaco.com doubles
from £104 room only ).
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CHICAGO USA
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AJOSEPHINE-BAKER
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Chicago but the one with the best
views from the top " is a short
stroll away There' s one danger
that walk along the Magnificent
Mile " it' s Chicago' s premier credit
card-threatening shopping strip.
Get there Travelbag ( 0871 703
4698 travelbag.co.uk has five
nights at the Intercontinental
Chicago from £799pp room only
including flights from Heathrow.
Use of the pool for non-hotel
guests costs £11 (00 1 312 944
4100 icchicagohotel.com ).
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washing-powderwhite
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Easy Family
Extreme
PENINSULA ,
AUSTRALIA
Dive in They flutter past like
seahorses dressed in Jean Paul
Gaultier making the stingrays
and cuttlefish look downright
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12390 cm2
BONDI ICEBERGS , Lucky
SYDNEY AUSTRALIA
Dive in Chiselled Adonises
with thundering front crawls
charge past you and the surf of
the Tasman Sea crashes against
the rocks that the Olympic-sized
open-air sea-pool at Icebergs
is built upon After the drama
recuperate in the clubhouse with
the coffee-clutching cast of
Sydney' s social pages and gaze
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dip Weekday office hours
quieter"and less intimidating.
Or you could just head down to the
beach and fight your way beyond
the breaking waves and surfers.
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Bondi to
Dry off The six-kilometre
Coogee Walk ( bonditocoogeewalk.
com.au
skirts past Icebergs on its
way over the clifftops and past
Tamarama Clovelly and Bronte
beaches Joggers try to tackle it as
quickly as possible everyone else
is best off making a day of it
out through floor-to-ceiling
windows over the golden crescent
between dips.
Get there Virgin Holidays ( 0844
of Bondi Beach in Sydney' s
has
557 3870 virginholidays.co.uk
glamorous Eastern suburbs.
a 14-night package to Sydney from
,199pp room only including
flights from Heathrow Pool entry
at Icebergs (00 61 2 9130 3120
icebergs.com.au costs £3.50.
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past it's as thrilling as anything
you' find in a fairy tale.
Lucky dip Weedy seadragons
can be seen at anytime of day
5984 0888 www.bayplay.com.au
has a two-night package from
£186pp staying in cottage
accommodation and including a
seadragon snorkelling tourand
transfers from Melbourne.
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but wait for the afternoon when
the waters tend to bewarmer
and the sun penetrates the
depths further.
Dry off The Mornington
Peninsula is rapidly gaining a
reputation as a top-drawer
quality-over-quantity wine
region "the Pinot Noirs here
tend to be especially good the
Tempranillos rising stars Wine
Tours Victoria 00 61 3 5428
8500 winetours.com.au runs
£90 tasting tours.
Get there Qantas ( 08457 747767
qantas.com.au flies to Melbourne
from Heathrow via Dubai from
£1 ,113 return Bayplay (00 613
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SWEDEN
Dive in On the outer edge of
Stockholm' s archipelago lies
Sandhamn the summer
playground of Stockholm' s elite.
Take a boat from the city to
Sandhamn harbour Then leaving
the old fishing village behind
follow a markedpath for 20
minutes through pine forest
carpeted with velvety moss
plump blueberries and pink
heather flowers to Trouville
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Tnnir STOCKHOLM
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beach Inhale the bracing briny
Baltic air( cars are prohibited here ).
then amble along a
untamed curve of soft sand
into brisk shallow waters Gaze
out onto the glittering water
where sea and sky become one
and red wooden fishing huts dot
the horizon Calm waves mean
the only sounds you' ll hear
are the calls of seagulls and
joyful squeals of the few other
families paddling nearby in
this Nordic paradise.
Lucky dip The sun-splashed cliffs
along the beaches are the ideal
picnic spot but given Trouville' s
relative isolation you should
stock up on towels food and
drink while in the harbour.
Sandhamn Seglarhotell ( see
below offers picnic and take
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away meals such as pizza salads
and sarnies from £11.
Dry off Walk back tothe harbour
to explore charming Sandhamn
village with its narrow alleyways
and rustic timber houses And
fill up after a day ofplaying in
the sand on sticky raisin-filled
seglarbullar sailor' s buns at the
150-year-old Sandhamns Bageri
Sandhamn harbour see
destinationsandhamn.se
).
Get there Norwegian Air ( 020
8099 7254 norwegian.com
flies from Gatwick to Stockholm
from £97 return Sandhamn
Seglarhotell ( 00 46 0857450400
sandhamn.com has doubles from
£238 B&B Cinderella Boats ( 00
46 812 004000 stromma.se sails
from Stockholm Strandvagen to
Sandhamn from £30 return >
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Times Travel 113
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Page : 114
Size : 100 %
12390 cm2
4Ir
Proper
RomanceCities
Views
SCARLET HOTEL ,
CORNWALL UK
Dive in Get back to
nature with a swim at this unique
hotel pool Weave through granite
rocks and reeds that naturally
filter the water the fierce Atlantic
waves crashing onto the surfers'
cove Mawgan Porth below The
hotel is all eco' so the pool is
chemical-free and you' emerge
with soft skin smelling fresh.
Lucky dip Warm up with a wallow
in the hotel s egg-shaped
outdoor hot tubs ( £15 for 30
minutes per couple or individual ).
Dry off For a taste of the West
Country drive 20 minutes to the
gourmet hub of Padstow Book
a table at Rick Stein' sSeafood
Restaurant (01841 532700.
rickstein.com :mains around £35
and gorge on freshly caught Dover
sole and Goan-inspired curries.
Get there The Scarlet Hotel
01637 861800 scarlethotel.co.uk
has doubles from £200 B&B.
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Get there Carrier ( 0161 492 1355
carrier.co.uk has seven nights in
a Pool Suite at Amanwella from
£2 ,385pp room only including
flights from Heathrow to
Colombo and air transfers
Lucky dip If swimming is just too
much effort paddle over on a lilo
carrying a picnic in a waterproof
bag then get comfy as you watch
Europe' s super-rich sail into
Mallorca' s swankiest marina.
Dry off Take the short walk into
Puerto Portals Marina and join
Mallorca' s more moneyed
holidaymakers " including the
Spanish royal family"who love
the bars and restaurants here
after a hard day at the regatta.
Get there EasyJet ( 0843 104
5000 easyjet.com has
returns from £53 In Palma' s
Old Town Hotel Can Cera (00 34
971 710729 cancerahotel.com
has doubles from £188 room only.
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SILENT BEACH
TANGALLE
SRI LANKA
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Mr-
PHANG
NGA BAY
THAILAND
PANAMERICANO
,
Dive in Lie back" or risk
scraping your nose on the rocks " as
your kayak slides underneath and
into a mysterious hong' (
limestone island Inside it' s
black-hole dark but scoop up
some water and you' ll see it start to
twinkle Natural phosphorescence
charges every touch lighting up the
inky sea like newborn stars igniting
in a distant corner of the cosmos.
Lucky dip Head to the hong' s
centre for a double starburst the
bioluminescent waters below and
the moon and stars up above.
Dry off Pootle around Phuket Old
Town with its shop-houses old
mansions and Chinese temples
then head up to Rang Hill for a super
view of Phuket Town and beyond.
Get there Travelbag 0871 703 4240
travelbag.co.uk has seven nights
at Amari Coral Beach from £899pp
B&B with flights from Heathrow
via Abu Dhabi The Hong by
Starlight tourcosts £86
with John Gray Sea Canoe
00 66 76254 5057 john
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AIRES , ARGENTINA
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AUSTRIA
Dive in Launch yourself into the
glassy waters of Lake Wolfgang 40
minutes from Salzburg "quickly
now before your toes tell you to
change your mind Your reward is
an invigorating " OK nippy " swim ,
with swans gliding past and tiddlers
tickling your feet Warmth is but a
breaststroke away in the heated
pool it' s a pamper-perfect
30°C and sunk intothe lake for
uninterrupted views over the
amphitheatre of mountains
bordered by pea-green pastures
and woodland After your dip
cross the floating deck to the
sun-drenched hot tub and bar and
unwind in the salt baths and sauna.
Lucky dip Swim at sunset when
the sky is striped purple-pink and
clouds float below the peaks.
Even better enjoy that view
over a glass of crisp white Gruner
Veltliner wine ( from 3 in the spa
on the outside decking ).
Dry off Catch a ferry to
pastelcoloured
Sankt Gilgen village for
a cable ride through the clouds
to the top of Mount Zwolferhorn.
The views arepainterly.
Get there Ryanair ( 0871 246
0000 ryanair.com has
StanstedSalzburg returns from £85 Hotel
Weisses Ressl & Spa ( 00 43 6138
2306 weissesroessl.at has
doubles from £97 B&B Spa access
costs from £18 for non-guests.
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Dive in Down a dirt trackoff the
road west out of Tangalle onSri
Lanka' s southern coast you'
emerge at this 800m golden
sweep the only evidenceof life a
few wooden loungers and some
colourful fishing boats hidden
between the palms Wave after
wave ploughs towards you
breaking the silence But don' t just
stand there"wade in because
even though there' s nothing
between here and Antarctica the
clear water is a welcoming 28°C.
The seabed shelves away quickly
and the surf pulls you ( safely out
to play Body-surf back to the sand
and wash away the taste of salt
with a Lion beer at the Amanwella
hotel bar ( amanresorts.com ).
Lucky dip Bring a snorkel and you
can explore the sheltered waters
behind the bay' s western headland
during the calmer wintermonths.
Dry off Still feeling active? Head
35 minutes inland to the Mulkirigala
Rock Temple where a series of
cave temples are carved inside
a huge 210m rock The dizzying
views from the top justify climbing
the 500-plus steps.
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HOTEL WEISSES
ROSSL SALZBURG
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Family
Easy "
Dive in Wafts of scented oils and
billowing white-muslin drapes set
the scene for relaxing laps in this
12m glass-encased pool on the
23rd floor Rest your chin on its
checkerboard edge for views of
the iconic Obelisk monument and
grand opera house Teatro Colon.
Then duck underwater at the far
end as the pool continues out
beneath a glass wall onto the
balcony Pop your head up over
the side for a bird s-eye view of
the world s widest city-centre
street Avenida 9 de Julio.
Lucky dip Counter the
effects of those heavy
Argentinian steak-and-Malbec
dinners with a helping of
chocolate and almonds " the
ingredients in. he spa' s face
masks Non-guests can unwind
with a facial or 30-minute
massage plus that all-important
swim with a view for £45.
Dry off Head up the marble steps
of the newly restored Teatro Colon
for a night at the opera ( Cerrito
628 00 5411 4378 7100 teatro
colon.org.ar Tickets cost just £6
if you stand in the upper gallery
known as El Paraiso ( paradise ).
Get there American Airlines
0844 499 7300 aa.com )flies from
Heathrow to Buenos Aires Ezeiza
via Dallas from £780 return The
Panamericano Buenos Aires ( 00
54 11 4348 5000 panamericano.
us has doubles from £123 B&B.
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PORTALS NOUS ,
PALMA
MALLORCA SPAIN
Dive in A rocky cove within the
Bay of Palma this beach is a
favourite with the yachties from
the adjacent harbour But the
sweetspot is a tiny unnamed islet
200m offshore Leave sailors and
the sounds of busy beach trailing
in your wake as you backstroke
through warm shallow waters
along boat-free channels marked
by yellow buoys.
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September 2013 Sunday Times Travel 115
7 / 19
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"
Am
Proper
Cities
Romance
NORTH ISLAND
Wears
Hidden
SZECHENYI
BATHS BUDAPEST
,
1114 SEYCHELLES
,
Dive in A 10-minute
boat ride from private North
Island s West Beach the Sprat City
dive site is one of the Indian
Ocean' s best snorkels Float
face down and enjoy the world
opening up 24m below three coral
mounds attract a diverse range of
sea life ( eagle rays and stripey
oriental sweetlip fish are regular
sightings Then put your fins and
fitness levels to the test Green and
hawksbill turtles neston the island
and paddle in the waters unfazed
they' re happy to let you swim
alongside them They' re fast
though See how long you can
keep up but be careful not to
lose sight of the boat.
Lucky dip Takeyour own
snorkel and mask no matter
how luxurious the resort hotel
equipment is often a bit leaky.
Dry off Order a palm-heart salad
at the island piazza Shredded and
splashed with lime ginger and
chilli it's the tastiest lunch ever.
Get there ITC Classics ( 01244
355527 itcclassics.co.uk has seven
nights in the Seychelles with one at
North Island ( all-inclusive pictured
below and six at Banyan Tree ( B&B
from £5 ,099pp including Heathrow
flights and transfers.
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116 SundayTimes
Easy Family
Wildlife Extra
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HUNGARY
Dive in Mahogany-skinned
men play chess at the water' s
edge comically large medallions
adorning their hairy chests The
bright-blue rubber hats of serious
swimmers plough up and down
the central pool And pot-bellied
Speedo-wearers position
themselves over the water jets
in the thermal sitting-pool In
theory an afternoon at the
alfresco Szechenyi Baths is about
a spin through the therapeutic
waters of the threevast heated
outdoor pools but chances are
you won' t burn many calories.
The people-watching here in
what looks like the waterlogged
grand courtyard of a
NeoBaroque palace is just too good "
you won' t want to submerge your
head in case you miss anything.
Lucky dip If it' s splashing space
rather than human-zoo hilarity
you' re after avoid weekends
when prices increaseslightly and
spots to spread out a towel around
the pools' edges are scarce.
Dry-off Szechenyi Bathssits in
the sprawling City Park home
to the Old Masters and Egyptian
treasuresin the Museum of Fine
Arts ( szepmuveszeti.hu £5.30
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plus a boating lake and an
old-school amusement park
complete with dodgems and
a Ferris wheel.
Get there EasyJet (0843 104
Gatwick to Budapest from £62
return The Soho Boutique Hotel
00 36 1 872 8292 sohoboutique
hotel.com has doubles from £60.
B&B Day entry to Szechenyi Baths
00 36 1 363 3210 szechenyi
spabaths.com costs from £12.
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KEROSENE CREEK
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NEAR ROTORUA
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NEW ZEALAND
Dive in Leaving the sulphur-rich
air of the thermal resort town of
Rotorua behind drive 29kmsouth
towards Taupo and keep your
eyes peeled for a small sign
labelled ' Kerosene Creek' "
a pot-holed road leads you to a
grassy verge at this semi-secret
swimming spot Rotorua might
be crammed with spas vying for
your dollar but nothing beats the
childish glee ofjumping into a river
in the forest where cold creek
meets hot spring ( paddle around
until you find the temperature
that' s right for you Don' t expect
romance and solitude :there will
be local families and excited
backpackers Instead crack open
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a six-pack of Monteith' s Radler
and enjoy this glimpse of
saltof-the-earth Kiwi family life.
Lucky dip There' s a choice of
threenatural pools but make
a beeline for the downstream
one which offers a free in-water
massage"courtesy of a gently
pummelling waterfall.
Dry off Whakarewarewa Forest.
on the southern outskirts of
Rotorua is known as the spiritual
home of Kiwi mountain-bikers
with trails ranging from rattling
to reckless Rent bikes with
Planet Bike ( planetbike.co.nz
from £16 for a half-day.
Get there Air New Zealand ( 0800
028 4149 airnewzealand.co.uk
)
flies from London to Auckland via
Los Angeles from £1.200 return.
Lakeview Heights Farmstay ( 00 64
220 495492.1akeviewheightsnz.
co.nz has doubles from £99 B&B.
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PETIT BOT BAY
GUERNSEY UK
Dive in Not all Channel
swims involve smearing yourself
in goose fat ( though don' t let us
stop you ) Guernsey' s blessed
with warmwaters and miles of
gorgeous beaches so
PetitBat Bay ( right just off
the main road 10 minutes outside
the capital St Peter Port is never
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12390 cm2
deluged Follow the valley lane
down past wildflowers and
waterfalls to the sandy cove
sheltered between granite crags.
and launch straight into the clear
brrracing waters " a bit of a walk
away when the tide' s out Don' t
leave before you' ve had a cuppa
in the caff or a nose in the
restored 18th-century tower.
Lucky dip Find coves populated
only by oystercatchers and
fulmars on a half-day spent
kayaking and coasteering " ie
paddling around and jumping
off rocks"from Petit B6t
£30 ).
outdoorguernsey.co.uk
Dry off There' s stunning walking
around Guernseys coastline.
interspersed with German WWII
battlements ( see visitguernsey.
com In St Peter Port see the
.
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ceiling crockery thrones and
OTT chinoiserie in VictorHugo' s
bonkers ( but well preserved
house victorhugo.gg £7 ).
Get there Stay in St Peter Port
at the OldGovernment House
01481 724921 theoghhotel.com
doubles from £163 B&B a
fivestar with a pool so inviting Oliver
Reed jumped in from his first-floor
bedroomwindow Aurigny ( 01481
822886 aurigny.com flies to
Guernsey from seven UK airports
Gatwick returns costfrom £140.
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FRASER ISLAND
QUEENSLAND
AUSTRALIA
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world s largest sand island and
let the current do the work " it' s
nature' s very own lazy-river ride.
The transparent sand-filtered
water is fairly shallow only
kneedeep in places but keep your
bottomup and you' llfloat gently
downstream for a few hundred
metres towards the ocean past
swathes of banksia wildflowers
catching sight of the occasional
hovering hummingbird at the
water' s edge " all without having
to make a single stroke.
Lucky dip If Eli Creek is a little
too busy thereare somegreat
inland lakes to plunge into such
asnearby LakeWabby where the
most popular way to enteris to
run at full pelt down the steep
sandy bank and make as big a
splash as you can.
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Dive in Swimming doesn' t get
more laid-back than in Eli Creek.
Jump off the wooden footbridge
into this freshwater river on the
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Dry off Hervey Bay is the
mainland gateway to Fraser Island
and it's also the starting point for
some excellent whale-watching.
August toNovember is the best
:
time to spot cruising humpbacks
playful pods of bottlenose
dolphins and drifting dugongs
try bluedolphintours.com.au ).
Get there Fraser Explorer Tours
00 61 7 4194 9222 fraserexplorer
tours.com.au has a two-day
guided tourof the island visiting
Eli Creek and Lake Wabby from
£198pp based on one night in
twin-share motel accommodation.
Qantas ( 0845 774 7767 qantas.
com.au flies from Heathrow to
Brisbane via Dubai from £1 ,156
return and has internal flights on
to Hervey Bay where the tour
starts from £110 return >
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12390 cm2
Cities Proper
Views Hidden
LAKE ZURICH , SWITZERLAND
Dive in Nobody in Zurich bothers with
the pool in summertime thanksto its
8 river and lake lidos Knowing which to choose is
an art Lawn-banked Tiefenbrunnen Strandbad is
perfect for families For romance wait till nightfall
and slip into the cool clean watersat the 18 + City
Beach lido ( 00 41 434 444050 zuerich.city-beach.
ch from £20pp canopy bed hire from £100
open Jun " Sep / Oct A cool cocktail awaits
besiderattan canopy beds while the season' s
hottest DJs crank out soundtracks as you swim.
The real draw of course is the view of city lights
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DEVON
& BEER
Dive in Sheltered by
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pale headlands the cove
of Beer in east Devon tendsto be
as calm as bath water although
it' s rarely anywhere near aswarm.
No matter a dip here on a hot
day is up there with the best of
British swims Pebbles mean
clarity and after a few minutes
your inner thermometer will have
adjusted as you float taking in
the classic seaside scene of
holidaymakers snoozing in
deckchairs or ferrying cake and
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118 SundayTimesTravel
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Extreme
Wildlife
dancing on the dark waters( best enjoyed
semi-submerged and hand-in-hand ).
Lucky dip City Beach is most crowded at
sunset but by 10.30pm most bathers are
heading ashore and the water' s yours.
Dry off No proposal forthcoming? Seal the
deal with a 20-minute taxi ride to Uetliberg
for heart-stopping views of the city.
Get there Co-operative Travel ( 0844 879 8832
co-operativetravel.co.uk has four nights in
airich from £398 B&B with Gatwick flights.
Swimming in Lake Zurich is only permitted
at designated lidopools.
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cups of tea from Kenno' s Beach
Hut ( which also does a nice line in
naughty cheesy chips ).
Lucky dip Come any time from
August 10 to 17 for the annual
Beer Regatta ( beer-regatta.
co.uk when sailboats bob in the
sea while parades and funfairs
line the beach and village streets.
Dry off Takea hike up over Beer
Head east and down steeply to
the village of Branscombe The
scenery en route is magnificent
all blue marine horizons and the
Jurassic Coast disappearing into
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rust-red blur far ahead By the
time you arrive you' ll have earned
your pint at a bench table outside
the time-stopped-still Mason' s
Arms ( masonsarms.co.uk ).
Get there Stay in Beer at
The Anchor Inn ( 01297 20386
oldenglishinns.co.uk /beer
doubles from £99 B&B a
pubwith-rooms overlooking the
beach The nearest station is
Axminster off-peak returns from
London Waterloo cost from £64.
From here you can bus it to Beer
in about 30 minutes.
a
IGUACU FALLS
NATIONAL PARK
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ARGENTINA
Dive in Swimming at Iguacu Falls?
Not a good idea Unless that is
you' ve found this secluded spot.
tucked away from the main drop
and all the crowds Follow the
often-ignored signs for the
Macuco trail 7km circular to
discover a small natural pool
surrounded by rainforest Splash
around between the rock pools
and take a humidity-beating
shower under the mini waterfall ,
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,15721=
RIF415ffer-1
flowed thousands of years ago.
Lucky dip Spread your Iguacu
Falls visit over two days to allow
time forsome extra trails - you' ll
get half-price entry for the second
day Early birds often have the
paths and pool to themselves
and occasionally spot capuchin
monkeys en route.
Dry off For a different perspective
on the Falls take a ferry trip to Isla
San Martin ( included in the entry
fee Feel the spray on your face
asyou get exhilaratingly close to
the walls of white-water while
rainbows arch overhead.
Get there Entry to the Iguacu
National Park ( iguazuargentina.
com costs £20 Journey Latin
America ( 020 8747 8315 journey
latinamerica.co.uk has a
trip to Buenos Aires and Iguacu
Falls from E1 ,573pp B&B with
Heathrow-Buenos Aires flights via
Madrid domestic flights to Puerto
Iguacu transfers and excursions.
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Gatill
with
fl igh
Parque lk-Kil ( Carretera
MeridaPuerto Juarez Piste Yucatan 00
52 985 858 1525 costs £3.40.
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WHITE PEARL
RESORTS
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Dive in If you' re lucky you' have
already seen them from the Ponta
Mamoli shore -the silvery fins
of a pod of bottlenose dolphins
dancing through the waves But
up close your heart skips a beat.
Slip over the side of the boat ,
glancing back at this
longdeserted coast and you' re
surrounded by the hypnotic clicks
and whistlesof the dolphins' sonar
symphony- and nothing else.
Unlike the oversubscribed
outof-control ' dolphin swimming'
adventures in many part of the
world here the boat owners
adhere to a strict local
conservation code ( Dolphin
Care Africa dolphincare.org
no touching coaxing or chasing.
and only one boat out with the
dolphins at a time This means the
creatures remain curious about
people so they' re far more likely
to come up and have a nose
around you rather than swim
away as they often do elsewhere.
Lucky dip Keep your eyes peeled
on the boat and you might also
spot whale sharks and manta rays
to take a dip with During the July
to November migration you can
even see humpback whales
although few would risk getting in
the water with these giants ).
Dry off There' s no end of animal
encounters in this far corner of
southern Mozambique and from
November to February you can
see loggerhead and leatherback
turtles laying their eggs on the
beach at night.
Get there The Turquoise Holiday
Company ( 01494 678400
turquoiseholidays.co.uk has
seven nights at White Pearl
Resorts from £2 ,439pp half
board including flights from
Heathrow to Maputo transfers
and the dolphin boat trip Dolphin
Encountours (00 258 84 330
3859 dolphin-encountours.com
also has dolphin tours in Ponta
d Ouro from £22.>
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ATM MEXICO
.
Dive in The term ' indoor
pool takes on a whole new
meaning at lk-Kil ( left a natural
well ( yes a well just beyond
Chichen ltza Its extraordinarily
blue-green waters lie 25m
below the surface of the earth.
where they' re naturally cooled
to the temperature of chilled
Champagne Dive in for maximum
refreshment before rolling onto
your backand staring up at the
halo of golden light that spills in
from above Great tangles of
beard-like vines dangle while
below ink-black catfish circle
between your feet.
Lucky dip Tour buses roll in from
Cancun all day long so get there
early in the morning or leave it
until late in the afternoon for a
much more private splash.
Dry off Ease your weary bod
at a temazcal( sweatlodge
an ancient Mayan steam bath
that uses vaporous aromatic
herbs to encourage relaxation
and contemplation.
Get there Thomson Holidays
0871 231 4691 thomson.co.uk
has 14 nights at the Riu Palace in
Cancun from £1 ,579 all-inclusive
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12390 cm2
GRANDANSE
BEACH , GRENADA
Dive in Pad across
further
then watch the neon light up.
Dry off Get under the city' s skin
with a half-day Hong Kong Foodie
tour You' see"and taste "the
benefits of your local guide' s lingo
and know-how at noodle stalls
hole-in-the-wall restaurants and
bakeries ( 00 852 2850 5006.
hongkongfoodietours.com
£57 ).
Get there Cathay Pacific ( 020
8834 8888 cathaypacific.com
has Heathrow-Hong Kong returns
from £639 The Ritz-Carlton ( 00
852 2263 2100 ritzcarlton.com
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powdered-ginger sands ( if
the sun' s been up a while save
your soles and trot straight
into the I-can' t-believe-it'
s-notPhotoshopped sea These clear
gentle southwestern waters are
warm " but not so hot you' d rather
float than front-crawl You could
do three-kilometre lengths but
aim for the central buoys and
you' have a 400m-ish lap ( longer if
your navigation isn' t all that Make
sure to peek above water to check
out pretty St George' s the capital
climbing a hill on the next bay.
Lucky dip Grand Anse " public
and free like all Grenada' s beaches
is never crowded but book
rooms right on the beach ( try the
five-star Mount Cinnamon below
for luxuriously solitary early
mornings and moonlit night dips.
Dry off Nutmeg is the Spice Isle' s
signature crop and.you can take
the world s best-smelling factory
tour at the processing station
in seaside Gouyave ( grenada
grenadines.com 65p Come on
a Friday to segue into street-party
night " grilled fish iced rum and
mega soundsystems.
Get there Caribtours ( 020 7751
0660 caribtours.co.uk has seven
nights at the Mount Cinnamon
hotel from E1 ,485pp B&B
including Gatwick flights.
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has doubles from £373 B&B.
One-day pool and spa access for
non-hotel guests costs from £64.
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ROOFTOP POOL ,
BATH UK
.
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,
Dive in Rise above the tourist
hordes milling around Bath' s
celebrated abbey and disappear
into the steam of an open-air
rooftop pool for an altogether
more exclusive view of Sir George
Gilbert Scott' s masterpiece.
The naturally warm mineral-rich
waters add to the serenity of this
unique sightseeing spot but the
pool is large enough for you to
loosen those limbs and earn your
massage when not gazing at the
Gothic spires and turrets.
Lucky dip Slip on robe and slippers
for a laid-back meal and a glass of
Pinot in the Springs Cafe ( mains
around £12 on the second floor.
Dry off Retox in style with a
twocourse high tea of smoked-salmon
sandwiches followed by cream
buns at Sally Lunn' stea house
sallylunns.co.uk for £11.95.
Get there A two-hour spa
session in the New Royal Bath at
ThermaeBath Spa ( 0844 888
0844 thermaebathspa.com
costs £26 Paradise House Hotel
01225 317723 paradise-house.
co.uk has doubles from E120 B&B.
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HONG
KONG , CHINA
Dive in Keen swimmers will tell
you about the post-exercise high..
RITZCARLTON
,
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Here 118 floors above Kowloon
you' re up beforeyou start this
is the world s loftiestpool You
can' t quite swim up to the
floorto-ceiling windows but a few
strokes will take you to the
in-water loungers that line the
edge Take in the view across
Hong Kong' s islands then enjoy
the 20m pool itself a lapper' s
delight of silver-blue tiles
backdropped by an LED wall of fishy
scenes If you can bravethe
breeze step outside to gaze
from the alfresco hot tub.
Lucky dip Time your swim to
coincide with sunset when the
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PALIA KAMENI
SANTORINI
CALDERA GREECE
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Dive in Feel the heat from above
and below by plunging into the
hot springs hissing and bubbling
within Santorini' s caldera Soak up
the therapeutic benefits of the
mineral-rich waters in the shadow
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Sunday Times Travel September
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,
orOne efhtstory§Scees
volcanoes ( it' s still known to
cough the odd puff of smoke ).
The tourist boats stop 100m
short ofthis small island sojump
ship and front-crawl the last leg
alone "just head for the patch of
rusty red water ( given its colourby
iron and manganese deposits ).
Lucky dip Leave the white bikini
at home " the rosy water can stain
light-coloured costumes.
Dry off Sample one of Santorini' s
famous sunsets over a glass of
fine local wine on the seaview
terrace of Santo Wines winery
santowines.gr from 85p a glass ).
Get there Sovereign ( 0843 770
6445 sovereign.com has seven
nights at Grace Santorini from
£1 ,379pp B&B including Gatwick
flights and transfers Caldera' s
Boats ( santorini-sea-excursions.
com )visits the hot springs as part
of a cruise from £13pp.
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CATARATA LA
CANGREJA
COSTA RICA
,
Dive in You' ll hear the waterfall
before you seeit And you' llhave
been dreaming of it from the start
of the six-kilometre trek through
the rainforestand savannah of
Rincon de la Vieja National Park to
Catarata la Cangreja This glorious
cascade spills into a vivid-blue
pool and soon you' reditching
your walking gear and plunging
into its depths where the falls
tumble intothe lagoon Clamber
onto the rocks behind it to laze
in its cooling spray.
Lucky dip The blue of the water is
such a deep colour that you can' t
see what your feetare touching
so you might want to pack a pair
of swimming shoes.
Dry off Trek eight kilometres to
the summit of RincOn de la Vieja' s
active volcano passing howler
monkeys sloths and coati
raccoons along the way.
Get there Headwater ( 0845
527 6228 headwater.com has
a 12-night guided walking trip
in Costa Rica which includes
a walk to Catarata la Cangreja.
from £2 ,999pp full board
including flights from a choice
of UK airports to San Jose
returning from Liberia.
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N° and issue date : 116 - 01/09/2013
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Page : 121
Size : 100 %
12390 cm2
0
JELLYFISH LAKE
,
PALAU
Dive in A pulsating
jellyfish floats in front of your
snorkel mask Then another and
another Soon there are so many
that you' re batting them away
gently as you wiggle your way
through Terrifying? Not here.
Secluded in a lake in the middle
of uninhabited Mercherchar
Island the two species ofjellies
here ' golden' and' moon' have
evolved with stings so wimpy
they can' t be felt by humans "
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which makes swimming through
wall of them wonderfully
freaky rather than fearsome.
Lucky dip :The £66 permit fee to
intoan off-road vehicle with
Fishnfins ( 00 680 488 2637
fishnfins.com from £69 )to
the lake covers the entire
Rock Islands WorldHeritage
Area and is valid for 10 days so
make the most of it with a few
days of snorkelling diving and
kayaking Also try the £70 Long
Lake kayaking and birdwatching
trip with Sam' s Tours ( 00 680
488 7267 samstours.com
).
Dry off This tiny Pacific nation ,
east of Indonesia and the
Philippines is all about water
activities but it' s worth hopping
explore jungle-covered
Babeldaob Palau' s largest island.
Get there Roundtheworldflights.
a
,
access
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,
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,
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( 020 7704 5700 has fares
with China Airlines from
Heathrow to Koror via Taipei ,
from £996 return The Palau
Pacific Resort ( 00 680 488 2600
palauppr.com has doubles from
£243 B&B Rock Islands
snorkelling trips including the
Jellyfish Lake cost £98 with
Fishnfins ( as above >
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12390 cm2
Dry off Drive10 rrltnutes
down the mountain to walk the
Medieval warren of streets in tiny
Gargnano an old fishing village
with custard-coloured
:
,
houses and sailboats
bobbing in the bay.
Get there EasyJet ( 0843 104
Gatwick to Milan Malpensa
from £53 return Lefay Resort
and Spa (00 39 0365 241800
lagodigarda.lefayresorts.com
has doubles from £248 B&B Spa
access
for non-hotel guests costs
from £100 including a 50-minute
body massage.
harbourside
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SANTA FE ISLAND
ASTORIA PARK
NEW YORK USA
Dive in Pull on a
,
GALAPAGOS
ECUADOR
Dive in Spins somersaults ,
twists and turns"even the most
agile of synchronised swimmers
will struggle to outmanoeuvre a
sea lion underwater Surrounded
:
,
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warmPacific seas richin
plankton ( thanks to the
nutrientpacked waters of the Humboldt
current ) the remote Galapagos
island of Santa Fe is home to
two 30-strong colonies of these
playful creatures ( above who
love to teasesnorkelers and tug
at their flippers Try to keep up
with these shiny torpedoes as
they slice through the water
scattering schools of blue and
by
,
) ,
.
,
angelfish like confetti.
Lucky dip Don' t threaten the
animals by chasing them Gently
treadwater and " hey presto! "
yellow
:
.
will come
they
to you.
Dry off Rather than cruising
round the Galapagos choose a
land-stay on Santa Cruz one of
the archipelago' sfew inhabited
islands Here you can watch
fishermen sell their catch at
Puerto Ayora while sea lions and
pelicans try to climbthe counter.
Get there Metropolitan Touring
00 593 2 298 8300
metropolitantouring.com
offers a four-night
naturalist programme at Finch
Bay EcoHotel on Santa Cruz
Island from £2 ,169pp full board
including yacht excursions and
flights from the mainland KLM
0871 231 0000 klm.com flies
from Heathrow to Guayaquil
from £580 return.
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Vernon Blvd socratessculpture
park.org for large-scale
walkthrough artworks backed by a
Woody Allen-worthy skyline.
4240 travelbag.co.uk has three
nights in New York from £499pp
room only with Heathrow-JFK
flights Entry to Astoria Park
19th St nycgovparks.org is free.
,
,
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:
swimsuit slip intoa floral cap
and swan-dive right into 1930s
New York Just over the East River
from Manhattan in Queens ( 30
minutes from Times Square on
the N Line this 100m Art Deco
bathing pavilion made quite a
splash when it opened in 1936 ,
and it still attracts dippers in
their droves On hot days it' s
a microcosm of NYC financial
types lingering in the shallow
end with their tots ( above right
slickly oiled gym buffs tanning
on Gucci beach towels laid out
on the concrete and
goldlame
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SPA LAKE GARDA
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hipsters breaststroking
end to escape the
midsummer heat But it' s not just
the people-watching that' s fine.
Pop on your sunnies and soak up
Manhattan views you can only get
from this side of the river the
paleskinned
.
in the deep
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ITALY
Dive in Descend gently intothe
heated salt water an adults-only
affair favoured by moneyed
Milanese Austrians and Swiss
this serene spa isn' t the place to
make a splash Unlike chlorine the
salt in this pool helps lift you up
which makes even flappers glide
through the water with the grace
of Olympians Lap it up in the 25m
outdoor pool which perches on a
mountain slope high above Lake
Garda halfway between Venice
and Milan With each breath.
you' clock cypress and olive
trees and catch whiffs of lemon
and lavender as well as glimpses
of Italy' s largest lake below After
your workout pad a few steps
to the indoor-outdoor
:
Gothic sandstone and
high-rises of Harlem and the
Upper East Side framed by the
slate-grey river below and the
steelsuspension towers of
Triborough Bridge above.
Lucky dip Built to accommodate
3 ,000 swimmers the pool is often
at capacity on busy summer days.
If dive-bombing kidsannoy you
come for the weekday adults-only
sessions from 7am to 8.30am and
7pm to 8.30pm.
Dry off Walk five minutes south of
the park along 21st Street for a bite
in the cafes and chi-chi restaurants
around Astoria Boulevard Finish up
at the Socrates Sculpture Park ( 36
,
,
MALAYSIA
Dive in Symptoms of a swim at
Traders include vertigo ( you' re
33 floors up cricked neck ( from
craning to stare at the 452m-tall
Petronas Towers opposite and
bruises ( it' s all splashes and
crashes here as swimmers forget
to look where they' re going But
it' s well worth it for the unrivalled
views of Southeast Asia' s most
famous twins right outside the
glass walls To snap poolside
photos of the towers the clarity
of the morning beats the regular
stormy deluge of the afternoon.
Lucky dip Make sure you' re out
promptly when the pool closes at
7pm It' s then that it becomes an
OTT water feature in the centre
of SkyBar KI s hippest nightspot
and the sunken window-side
banquettes give the crowd a
perfect view of embarrassed
stragglers in their Speedos.
Dry off Takethe lift up tothe
360m-high Observation Deck
at the Petronas Towers ( 00 60 3
2331 8080 petronastwintowers.
com.my £16.85 The hotel up
there isn' t half as sexy as Traders
but the rest of the city looks mighty
fine from this vantage point.
4698 travelbag.co.uk has seven
nights at Traders from £869pp.
B&B with flights from Gatwick to
Kuala Lumpur via Ho Chi Minh City.
Use of the pool is exclusively for
guests but SkyBar 00 60 3 2332
9888 shangri-la.com / kuala
lumpur / traders is open to all.
:
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LEFAY RESORT &
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:
TRADERS HOTEL
KUALA LUMPUR
;
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swimthrough
whirlpool then slip out
of the water for a circuitof the
six saunas and steam rooms.
Lucky dip Backstroke at night
spa staff leave at 8pm but you
can linger in the pool later when
the lights of lakeside villages make
the water shimmer and the moon
appears to rest on the chiselled
mountain peak above.
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Sunday Times Travel September 2013
14 / 19
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Page : 123
Size : 100 %
12390 cm2
Dive in :A 15-minute boat ride
takes you acrossthe optimistically named
Veliko Jezero ( Big Lake from the National
Park headquarters in Prapratno to tiny
photogenic St Mary' s Island which has a
bustling seafood restaurant at the harbour
and a Benedictine monastery ( pictured and
church at its heart Walk for a fewminutes
around the low wall at the water' sedge until
you find a secluded shady spot under a pine
then ease yourself into the reliably warm
waters
( 28°-30°C )of this saltwaterlake.
You' re now swimming around a tiny island
in a tiny lake which is in turn on a slightly
bigger island in the AdriaticSea " it' s
like the island equivalent of Russian dolls.
Lucky dip :Come back to Veliko Jezero
when the moon is high In summer
phosphorescent plankton makes a
midnight dip even more enchanting.
Dry off Reward yourself for your
exertions with black risotto local
cheeses and homemade cakes at
the island restaurant Melita ( 00 385
020 744145 mljet-restoranmelita.com
mains around £7 where the boat docks.
Get there EasyJet ( 0843 104 5000
easyjet.com flies from Gatwick to
Dubrovnik from £109 return Jadrolinija
00 385 51 666111 jadrolinija.hr operates a
ferry service between Dubrovnik andMljet
from £19 return for a foot passenger Entry
to the National Park costs £10 Villa Lucija
00 385 020 744032 mljet-ferien.com has
doubles from £35 B&B >
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15 / 19
Times Travel 123
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Page : 124
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12390 cm2
Cities Proper
Romance
0m40 MORERE
POOLS
,
ti
Views
Hidden Wildlife
NATURAL
BOIPEBA
Dive in Bob up and down without
lifting a limb as the amazingly
calm Atlantic waters lap lazily
against this hidden-island
escape Laid-back even by Latin
American standards this rustic
Bahian retreat is ringed by reefs
providing shelter from ocean
currents and winds At low tide
these walls of coral(a five-minute
swim from the sandy shore
form shallow pools where you can
paddle with starfish and wrasses
without the need for a snorkel.
Lucky dip Swim to one of the
many floating oyster bars where
local fishermen ply their freshly
shucked bounty at the pontoon
restaurants ( from £4 a dozen ).
Dry off Everything shuts here
at 9pm But for good bars and
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THE BADESCHIFF
BERLIN GERMANY
Dive in Chaps on bar
,
,
,
,
:
stools clad only in towels women
on loungers wearing considerably
less "thiscargo
containerturned-swimming pool on the
river Spree is not for prudes In
summer there' s a beachy vibe in
the open air lap swimmers pause
to give nudey salutes to passing
pleasure boats In winter a
cocoon is stretched over the
top and bracing skinny-dips are
followed by a spell in the sauna.
Lucky dip To ramp up the surreal
factor go in the evening when DJs
spin chill-out tunes and patrons
hop between baths and bar.
,
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,
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larvalike
,
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Lucky dip Don' t be confused by the
islanders' talk of selkies' Strictly speaking
they' re mythological sea creatures but the
word is applied to seals too which you' ll spot
staring you out from the rocks at the isle end
of the tombola.
Dry off Stock up on locally made crystallised
ginger and tablet (a fudge-like sweetie from the
Bigton shop a five-minute stroll from the car
'
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remote wind-thrashed corner on the west
coast of Shetland so you' ll have it all to yourself.
You' re now closer to Norway than you are to
Aberdeen so it' ll be a quick and shivery dip
ut the clear water and nothing-but-nature
ws make it an exhilarating one.
Times
.
,
,
Sunday
.
CARLISLE BAY
BARBADOS
Dive in There' s no need
to toe-test the water" the sea
around Barbados' s southwest
coast is an average of 28°C
yearround
It' s almost always calm
too making it ideal for young
IVST
124
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:
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turtles as locals will know if there
have been any sightings near the
shore Always keep a respectful
distance and never wear flippers
in case you poke them in the eye.
Dry off There' s only one way to
end the day in Barbados Grab a
couple of Banks beersfrom a
beach shack find a shady spot
under a palm treeand kick back
as the sun sinks on the horizon.
Get there Best( Travel ( 020
7849 4130 bestattravel.co.uk
has seven nights at the Club
Barbados Resort & Spa from
£1 ,459 all-inclusive with flights
.
)
from Gatwick Seascape
Fishing ( 00 246 236 5011
seascapefishing.com
has turtle
boat excursions from £45pp.
:
)
com
,
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)
,
a
leatherbacks enjoy
playtime along the island s
inshore reefs and welcome
visitors with open fins.
Lucky dip You don' t always have
to take a boat trip tosee the
180kg
,
,
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families Friendly gangs of turtles.
from palm-sized hatchlings to
restaurants travelto neighbouring
party island Morrode Sao Paulo.
Boipebatur (00 55 75 3653 6017
boipebatur.com.br offers
transfers by 4WD and boat ( about
70 minutes from £21 one way.
Getthere TAP ( 0845 601 0932.
flytap.com flies from Heathrow
to Salvador from £710 return.
Boipebatur ( asabove operates an
air-taxi from Salvador to Boipeba
from £274 return Pousada
Horizonte Azul (00 55 75 3653
6080 pousadahorizonteazul.
NINIAN' S ISLE ----.SHETLAND SCO-TtAND
-Dive In Wandering down the hill from
small deserted Bigton car park to this
ectacular tombolo (a natural sand causeway
with sea on either side it can' t fail to strike you
that if this beach were anywhere else in Europe
prefab hotels and deckchair hawkers would
have ruined it long ago But thankfully it' s on
do°
Family
,
,
BRAZIL
.
Easy
Extreme
park Then cross the sand for a brisk walk around
the isle " you' ll find an archaeological site dating
back to the Bronze Age.
Get there The nearby Spiggie Hotel ( 01950
460409 thespiggiehotel.co.uk has doubles
from £110 B&B mew
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Travel September 2013
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Page : 125
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12390 cm2
Dry off Nearby Friedrichshain
is Berlin' s go-to graffiti zone.
Alternative Berlin ( 00 49162 819
8264 alternativeberlin.com runs
immersive street-art tours for £13
including a graffiti workshop.
Get there BA ( 0844 493 0787
ba.com flies from Heathrow to
Berlin Tegel from £110 return.
Stay at Arte Luise Kunsthotel
00 49 30 284480 luise-berlin.
corn doubles from £85 room
only Entry to the Badeschiff ( 00
49 152 0594 5752 arena-berlin.
de / badeschiff costs £4.
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ENGLISHMAN' S
TOBAGO
Dive in A discreet green
sign opposite a bamboo grove
on Tobago' s North Coast Road
BAY
,
:
marks this secluded crescent
of sand You' ll share the warm
Caribbean sea here with iridescent
.
Get there BA ( 0844 493 0787.
ba.com has Gatwick-Tobago
returns via Antigua from £574.
Magdalena Grand Beach Resort
0845 004 8276 magdalenagrand.
corn )has doubles from £171 B&B.
parrotfish " and barely anyone
else After your swim saunter
20m along golden sands to select
a hand-woven
hammock from the
beachside trinket stall then claim
two coconut trees and let the sun
dry off any lingering seawater.
Lucky dip Visit between the end
of March and June to share the
sea with giant leatherback turtles.
But don' t get too close and allow
these critically endangered
creatures to get to their nearby
egg-laying beach in peace.
Dry off Pad up toEula' s a joint
so local it doesn' t havea phone
number or website ( thankfully it's
the only building on Englishman' s
Bay so you can' t miss it Grab a
table on the first-floor deck and
scoffgrilled tilapia curry-spiced
rice and roti bread while watching
fishing boats and pelicans
compete for the riches of the sea.
:
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kids
Dive
charge across wobbly bridges
splash under waterfalls and play
hide-and-seek among grottoes in
this former quarry which was
turnedintoa public swimming
complex like no other in the 20s.
Topped with pink stucco towers
surrounded by palm trees and
at the heartof the swishCoral
Gables neighbourhood this is
a true Miami experience But
be prepared :the water comes
from cool natural springs.
which on sweltering summer
:
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IN MIAMIin LetUSAthe
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days can come as a bit of
a shock at first.
Lucky dip Prefer your swims
to be hot-tub-warm? Lie back
and float in the clear lagoon at
Matheson Hammock Park where
shallow waters make for another
good family day out ( miamidade.
gov parks entry £3.30 per car).
Dry off Wander under the leafy
canopy of the Fairchild Tropical
Botanic Garden ( fairchildgarden.
org adults £16 children £8
under-5s free Kids will love the
tram ride and butterfly garden.
Get there Virgin Holidays ( 0834
557 3870 virginholidays.co.uk has
seven nights in Miami from £3 ,089
for a family of four room only with
Heathrow-Miami flights Venetian
Pool ( 2701 De Soto Blvd 00 1 305
460 5306 gablesrecreation.com
adults £7.50 children £4.30
under-3s not allowed ).
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Lucky dip The besttime for watching the
wallowing wildlife is early morning or late
afternoon What' s more this is also when
you' re most likely to have the pool all to yourself
as the other guests will be bouncing through
the bush in safari trucks looking for animals.
Dry off Draw a lungful of clear mountain air put
on your walking shoes and tread the trail through
the 11 ,000-hectare reserve Canary-yellow
weaverbirds sing from the acacias jewel-like
lizards scuttleunderfoot and the scents of herbs
and honey hang on the warm midday breeze.
Get there African Pride ( 01904 619428
africanpride.co.uk has 10 nights in South Africa
including two nights at Kwena Lodge in the
Gondwana Game Reserve from £2 ,219pp
with flights from Heathrow to Cape Town
car hire game drives and some
meals >
:
111111n
Dive in Keep very quiet when you slip
into the rim-pool at KwenaLodge At this small
boutique hotel set in a game reserve near South
Africa' s famed Garden Route you just may be
sharing your morning dip with an elephant or a
splashes or
lion This is not a pool for strenuous
lively laps but for lazing like a crocodile and
peering over the edge while a parade of wildlife
visits the two waterholes
just 100m away Your
the reflections
of the pale
slow strokes shatter
amethyst Langeberg Mountains that surround
the lodge a buffalo lollops across the horizon
between dives Summon bar service from your
patch of shade under a reed umbrella and slip
back into the cool waters for a traditional
safari-sundowner with a difference.
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17 / 19
2013
Sunday Times Travel 125
N° and issue date : 116 - 01/09/2013
Frequency : Monthly
Page : 126
Size : 100 %
12390 cm2
Romance Cities
126
Sunday Times
Proper
Views
Hidden
Wildlife
Extreme
Easy
Family
TravelSeptember2013
18 / 19
N° and issue date : 116 - 01/09/2013
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Size : 100 %
12390 cm2
Wandsworth for more
leafy strolls a whirl on the bowling
green ( allstarcoaching.co.uk E3pp
hour and a three-course dinnerat
Michelin-starred Chez Bruce ( 020
8672 0114 chezbruce.co.uk £45 ).
Get there The lido ( 020 8871
7198 slsc.org.uk £6.20 May-Sep
is a 20-minute walk or short bus
ride from Tooting Becstation ( see
tfl.org.uk Fifteenminutes from
the lido between Balham and
Tooting Bectube stations 108
Streathbourne Road ( 020 8767
6931 southwestlondonbandb.
co.uk has doubles from E90 B&B.
common
66
11AU
RAVE ll
Dive in Put down your
Bellini and pad over to the 22m
blade-shaped infinity pool at
the Hotel Caruso ( pictured A
stately breaststroke is the way
to go here "that way you won' t
have to take your eyes off those
Amalfi-coast views for even a
moment On the left the Lattari
Mountains tumble down from
heaven with the
caramelcoloured towns of Minori and
Maiori scrunched into the curves
and crevices Dead ahead the
sky and the steel-blue pool
merge with the Sea of Amalfi like
a great Impressionist work.
Lucky dip Swoop on the pool
in the late afternoon when the
scent ofjasmine and wisteria
hangs in the air and swallows
twirl and nose-dive on the skyline.
Dry off Keen walkers ( of any level
should follow the Path ofthe
Gods a majestic mountain trail
that weaves along the coast to
the smart harbour of Positano.
Get there Thomson Airways
0871 231 4691 thomson.co.uk
flies from Gatwick to Naples from
£179 return Hotel Caruso (00 39
089 858801 hotelcaruso.com
has doubles from £670 B&B Use
of the pool is exclusively for guests.
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ROSEWOOD
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HOTEL GEORGIA
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16m pool By day
robed spa-goers and hotelguests
sprawl on wooden loungers and
daybeds watching theirchildren
splash around But by night the
kids vanish to early dinnerand
bed making way for couples to
immerse themselves in the waters
"transformed by illuminated
triangles on the pool s floor
shifting from red toyellow
green to blue.
Lucky dip Visit an hour before
closing ( 10pm and ask staffto
draw the blinds on Reflections the
adjacent alfresco tapas restaurant.
Cocooned from the world float on
your back gazing up at the water' s
kaleidoscope-effect on the ceiling.
Dry off Descend four floors to the
dimly lit Hawksworth restaurant a
local hotspot Order a
Hotel Georgia cocktail and
smooch on a leather banquette.
Get there Canadian Affair ( 020
7616 9933 canadianaffair.com has
Gatwick-Vancouver returns from
£458 Rosewood Hotel Georgia ( 00
1 604 682 5566 rosewoodhotels.
com / en / hotelgeorgia has doubles
from £215 room only Useof the
pool is exclusively for guests.
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UK
Dive in Deep breath.
Jump And swim as fast as you
can! Or as quickly as your
coldshocked lungs will allow Yes this
south London lidois unheated
and at 91.5m by 30m ( the UK' s
largest unlikely tohot up on a
sunny day But by golly it gets the
endorphins going Triathletes
Channel-swimmers-in-training
,
families and OAPsall love it here
at the leafy eastern end of
Tooting Bec Common All the
space and sky gives you that
lakeswim feeling " only without the
mud and with Victorian changing
huts and hot showers.
Lucky dip A sunny day will bring
out the hordes so arrive early ( it
opensat 6am and bag your spot
for post-exertion basking.
Dry off Stay south and hop on
a 319bus along to the next
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BOADELLA BEACH
COSTA BRAVA
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inthis slimline
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BEC
TOOTING
LIDO LONDON
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VANCOUVER
CANADA
Dive in Glide through a rainbow
,
.
Lucky dip Get a closer look at the
baby turtles hiding in the reef by
renting snorkelling gear from Boss
Frog' s Dive & Surf ( 00 1 808 669
4949 bossfrog.com from El a day.
Dry off Drive 15 minutes down
theroad tothe Old Lahaina Luau
00 1 808 667 1998 oldlahaina
luau.com entry from £67 for
traditional Hawaiian dishes suchas
fresh ahi tuna and kalua pua' a ( pork
roasted in the sands with a ' side'
of hula dancing and a romantic
tangerine sunset for afters.
Get there BA (0844 493 0787
ba.com flies from Heathrow to
LA with transfers on to Maui.
from £942 return The Napili Kai
Beach Resort ( 00 1 808 669 6271.
napilikai.com has doubles from
£177 room only.
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Swim towards the lava rock
formations that act as a natural
harbour protecting the beach
from the surging Pacific Yellow
butterfly fish glide beneath your
feet while curious monk seals slice
through the barely-there currents.
Then dry off on the creamy.
powder sands and watch spinner
dolphins and migratory whales
breaching on the distant horizon.
ocean
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Prohibitionera
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KAPALUA BEACH ,
HAWAII
Dive in As you wade
into the warm shallow waters of
western Maui you' ll be greeted by
sweeping views of Molokai Island
and the cologne-ad-worthy
:
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SPAIN
Dive in Skip touristy Lloret de Mar
for this nearby secret cove where
Catalan lovers go to sleep beneath
the stars By day though its big
sell is the deep bay protected from
the undercurrents that plague the
CostaBrava coastline Slip in on
the south side ( where there are
fewer underwater rocks and
you' re combed by gentle waves Or
push out beyond the bay ( strong
swimmers only where views of
the nibbled-out coastlineunfold.
Lucky dip Naturism' s pretty usual
on Boadella and nothing frees the
spirits like a dip in your birthday suit.
Dry off Try the dangerously good
churros ( Spanish doughnuts at
the beachfront coffee shack
Boadella Café ( open July-Aug ).
Get there Thomas Cook ( 0870
750 5711 thomascook.com has
seven nights at the five-star
Guitart Monterray in Lloret de Mar
from £459pp B&B with flights
from Gatwick to nearby Barcelona."
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19 / 19
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Times Travel 127

st-As.. . Whatever floats-yOurVnt "

Transcription

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