Paper-Foundation Piecing

What is Paper-Foundation Piecing?
Sometimes called simply “foundation piecing,” other
times called “paper piecing,” stitching fabric onto a paper
foundation allows you to stitch with amazing accuracy. If
you love long, slender, pointy points and precise piecing,
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The basic idea of paper-foundation piecing involves printing or tracing your block pattern onto a piece of easy-totear paper. Then you sew fabric pieces to the wrong side
of the paper, using the lines on the right side of the paper
for guidance. Since you’re sewing on the line and using
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accurate. When all the sewing is complete, you tear away
the paper and your beautiful block remains.
To help you achieve success, I’ve included a couple of
tips, and I’ll warn you about the common pitfalls so that
you can avoid potential problems. For example, one
thing I’ll mention here is that paper piecing takes more
fabric than conventional piecing. There’s always a little
more fabric wasted. On the other hand, paper-foundation
piecing makes great use of scraps and oddly shaped
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yourself a favor and try paper piecing. If accurate piecing
makes your heart sing, paper-foundation piecing may be
your perfect method.
Getting Started with Paper-Foundation
Piecing
As with all new techniques, it’s best to start with a small,
fairly simple paper-piecing pattern. (Thus speaks the
woman who quilted a king-size quilt for her parent’s wedCHMF@MMHUDQR@QX@RGDQƥQRSL@BGHMDPTHKSHMFOQNIDBSʖ
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You’ll need one paper pattern for each block you want
to make. You can copy the pattern onto the foundation
O@ODQDHSGDQAXG@MCTRHMF@QTKDQ@MC@ƥMDONHMSODQmanent marker (pencils and ballpoint pens will smear, so
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the foundation paper. I suggest you make an extra copy or
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As for the type of foundation to use, paper-piecing paper
is available at your local quilt shop and online. Test sevDQ@KSXODRNEENTMC@SHNMO@ODQSNƥMCSGDNMDXNTOQDEDQ
I’ve used cheap copy paper, tracing paper, baking parchLDMS@MCCNBSNQŗRNƧBDDW@LS@AKDO@ODQCDODMCHMF
on what I had on hand at 7 o’clock on a Sunday night. The
best paper will tear easily along the stitching lines, won’t
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SG@SHSVNMŗSE@KK@O@QS@MCI@LSGDOGNSNBNOHDQ3GDENTMdation paper also needs to be translucent enough that
you can see pieces of fabric through the paper when you
hold it up to the light.
2 Paper-Foundation Piecing
Paper-Pieced Flower
Step-by-Step Paper-Foundation Piecing
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and the solid line around the perimeter indicates the
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pattern indicates the outer ¼" seam allowance used to
sew this block to others in the quilt.
The following instructions are for making one
foundation-pieced Flower block.
3
2
Flower block
5
7
1
6
4
Pattern faces left.
Materials for Paper-Foundation Piecing
Sewn block faces right.
1
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1 square, 6½" x 6½", of foundation paper
9" x 18" piece of blue fabric
Scrap of yellow fabric, about 3" square, for piece 1
Scrap of purple fabric, at least 2¼" x 6", for piece 4
Scrap of rose fabric, at least 2¼" x 7", for piece 6
Sewing machine and neutral-colored thread
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HMBKTCHMFSGDNTSDQRD@L@KKNV@MBDR,@JDNMDENTMC@tion pattern for each block you want to make.
2
Cut the blue fabric into the following pieces:
Scissors
Iron
Pins
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8" x 8" piece of old fabric to use as a pressing cloth
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Seam ripper (optional, but you’ll probably sew an
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Transparent tape (the type you wrap presents with—also
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1 square, 5" x 5", for piece 2
1 rectangle, 4" x 7", for piece 3
1 rectangle, 6" x 2½", for piece 5
1 rectangle, 6½" x 3¾", for piece 7
The measurements of these pieces don’t need to be
exact—you simply need enough fabric to cover each
shape plus a ¼" seam allowance all around. When you’re
starting out, it’s easier to have chunks of fabric that are
a bit too large rather than risking not having enough.
With larger pieces, there’s more wasted fabric—but less
frustration and seam ripping. As you become accustomed
to paper piecing, you’ll be able to estimate the size and
shapes of fabric you need for each piece and won't use as
much fabric.
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3 Paper-Foundation Piecing
Punchy Tip
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one or two copies of your pattern and you don’t have a
photocopier available. Use craft scissors to cut the foundation paper into however many squares you need in a
size slightly larger than your block pattern. For example,
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with the outer seam allowance, so cut squares 7" or so.
They don’t have to be accurate squares; rough cutting
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Accurately trace the pattern onto one of the squares, or
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foundation-paper squares together, with the traced or
copied pattern facing up on top. Staple the stack together
in about four places, stapling where there are no stitching lines so you can sew over the lines. You need enough
staples so the papers don’t shift, but not so many that the
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Place the stapled squares under the machine, lower the
presser foot, and stitch H[DFWO\on all of the drawn lines
(including the outer dashed line to mark the seam allow@MBD(TRT@KKXRGNQSDMLXRSHSBGKDMFSGRKHFGSKXATSHS
doesn’t really matter. The needle punches holes through
all the foundation papers. The line of holes acts as your
stitching line and also makes it extra easy to tear away
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When you’re done stitching, remove the staples and
separate the foundation papers. Because the punched
patterns won’t have markings on them, you may either
want to write the piece numbers on each pattern so
they’re easy to follow, or you can keep the original master
pattern to follow as a guide; save that one for stitching
on last. Use the hole lines as a guide when you sew the
fabric to the foundation.
Staple
Staple
Staple
Staple
Stitch over all the lines without using thread.
Remove staples.
Remove the thread from both the top and bobbin of
your machine and replace your sharp new needle with
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me and haven’t replaced your needle in awhile, keep the
old needle in the machine but plan on replacing it after
you’ve made all your foundation patterns.
4 Paper-Foundation Piecing
3
Each section of the pattern is numbered to
indicate the piecing sequence. Begin by sewing
piece 1 to piece 2 along their shared line. Start with the
yellow 3" square of fabric for piece 1 and the blue 5" x 5"
square for piece 2. Place the yellow square right side up
on the wrong side of the foundation paper so that it
covers section 1. Hold the foundation-paper square up
to a light with the printed side facing you and move the
fabric around until one edge of the fabric extends about
¼" beyond the line between piece 1 and piece 2. Not
only should the piece 1 shape be completely shaded by
the fabric, but the fabric should also extend ¼" beyond
the shape on all of the sides. Pin piece 1 to the paper.
With right sides together, layer the piece 2 fabric onto
piece 1, matching the edges parallel to the line between
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to completely cover the piece 2 shape plus a ¼" seam
allowance all around. To check this, turn the foundation
over and pinch the fabric right at the seam line. Flip the
blue square over to check that it will cover all of piece 2
on the foundation SOXV ¼". Now you understand why it’s
better to precut your pieces a little too large instead of
too small. I’m constantly surprised where the fabric actu@KKXE@KKR@ESDQADHMFRDVM@MCƦHOODC(SL@XS@JD@KHSSKD
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Foundation
paper (top)
4
Place a pin to hold the fabric pieces in place on the
foundation paper. Place the paper and fabric under
your machine with the paper on the top. Set your stitch
length a little shorter than usual—I usually sew with
my machine set at about 12 stitches per inch, or about
2 on my machine. For paper-foundation piecing I set it
around 1.5, or about 17 stitches per inch. The shorter
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is pieced. It also makes it harder to take out mistakes, so
experiment with the best stitch length for your temperament. You may prefer it a little shorter or longer than what
I use.
(If you made needle-punch patterns, did you remember to
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Stitch along the line between pieces 1 and 2 on the foundation paper. I like to start and stop about ¼" beyond the
line, but other quilters prefer to take a short backstitch at
the beginning and end of stitching instead. You need to
do one or the other to keep the seams from pulling apart
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Stitch 1/4"
past line.
Piece 2
right side up
facing piece 1
Piece 1 wrong
side toward paper
Position fabric right sides together
under the foundation paper
Piece 2
plus 1/4"
1/4"
Stitch on the line between
piece 1 and piece 2.
5
Double-check that piece 2 covers enough area, and
WKHQ trim the excess fabric, leaving approximately
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but more meticulous quilters like to fold back the foundation paper along the seam line and use a rotary cutter and
small ruler to trim the extra fabric to an accurate ¼" seam
allowance. Either way, be sure to trim to reduce the bulk
in your block.
Trim to a 1/4" seam allowance.
5 Paper-Foundation Piecing
Fixing Mistakes
6
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get a pretty good crease, or use your iron. When
you iron foundation paper, be aware that sometimes
photocopy ink will transfer to your iron, and then onto
your fabric, so it’s best to use a pressing cloth or waste
fabric between the paper and your ironing board. I also
avoid using steam, since that can dampen and crinkle the
paper, making the process not as accurate as you’d like.
allowance.
Press toward piece 2.
7
Position the blue 4" x 7" rectangle for piece 3 right
sides together with pieces 1 and 2 and hold the
pattern up to the light so you can guesstimate that piece
3 extends ¼" beyond the stitch line between pieces 1
and 2 and piece 3. Flip the pattern over and check that
piece 3 covers the foundation pattern plus extra for seam
allowances. Pin piece 3 in place and stitch along the line
as you did in step 5. Stitch past the line all the way to the
edge of the paper.
Piece 2 plus 1/4"
Position piece 3 right sides
together with pieces 1/2.
Check that piece 3 is
positioned properly.
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NESGDRSHSBGHMFKHMDR@MCMNVG@UDSNQHONTSXNTQRD@L
Welcome to paper piecing. Everyone’s done that, but
because of the short stitches and the rigidity of the paper,
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the problem right away, and not four seams later, here’s
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Flip the foundation unit so the paper is facing you. Place
a strip of transparent tape along the stitched seam and
press on it so it has a good hold on the paper. Now with
one hand, grab the foundation paper close to the end of
the seam and take a good hold of the fabric in your other
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pulled from the paper. Now it is easy to snip every three
stitches or so and pull out the seam. The foundation is
still intact and you can reuse it to restitch your pieces.
Tape
If you don’t mind wasting a bit of fabric, here’s another
way to remove a mistake. Using fabric scissors, cut away
the seam allowance of the newly added fabric RQO\
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allowance as close as possible to the stitching line. Then
simply pull the big chunk of remaining fabric away from
the stitching. The thread stitching line is still there, but
the fabric is gone and the foundation is intact. Add a new
piece 2 fabric and sew one thread’s width away from the
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few seconds to accomplish, the foundation isn’t torn, and
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Stitch on the line between
pieces 1/2 and piece 3.
6 Paper-Foundation Piecing
8
Check that the piece 3 fabric is covering the piece
3 foundation shape plus ¼" seam allowances; then
trim the excess along the seam and press open. If the
excess fabric beyond the paper’s edge is bothersome,
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the block’s edges after all of the pieces are sewn. I have
two reasons for doing this. The reason I usually share with
folks is that I tend to trim only when I need to in case I’ve
made a mistake and have to rip out seams. If I trim too
soon, I’m likely to cut away fabric I'll need. The other
reason is I’m too lazy to trim piece by piece and I’ve
learned to ignore the excess fabric.
10
After all the pieces are sewn, press your
block with a medium-hot iron. Remember to use
a pressing cloth over the photocopied side of the paper
in case the ink smears, and don’t use steam because it
will dampen the paper. Trim your block to the RXWHU line
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11
Trim to a 1/4" seam allowance.
Press toward piece 3.
9
Repeat steps 7 and 8 with the remaining pieces,
sewing in order and trimming and pressing after
adding each piece.
Piece 4 sewn.
Piece 5 sewn.
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pieces are easy, but the tiny bits in seams can be
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then sliding a pair of long, sharp tweezers inside the seam
and giving a tug with the tweezers is the easiest method
of paper removal. The tweezers are also helpful in removing little bits of paper that can get caught in the stitching.
If you make multiple blocks, you may decide to wait to
remove the paper until after all the blocks are stitched
together. If you wait to remove the paper, it’s a snap to
sew the blocks together, but then there are more seams
from which to tear the paper. Some people make their
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outside the edge of the paper. Try both methods and see
which you prefer.
Removing Paper Can Be a Snap
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Papers for Foundation Piecing, tissue paper, or baking
parchment, and you’ve set your stitch length to be pretty
short, you can try this technique for releasing the paper.
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stitching line. Give the block a quick tug in opposite
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seams, but you may still need to resort to using tweezers
in areas where multiple seams come together, such as in
narrow points.
7 Paper-Foundation Piecing
If you’re the type of person who likes to end up with
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them together to make a pretty star pillow or small
wall hanging.
Symmetrical or Asymmetrical?
With paper piecing, the image you end up with will be a
mirror image of the paper pattern.
You always want to stitch on the correct side of the paper
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Unit A
Unit B
Four blocks combine to make a twisted star.
© 2012 by Martingale
™
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19021 120th Ave. NE, Ste. 102
Bothell, WA 98011 USA
(800) 426-3126
www.ShopMartingale.com
8 Paper-Foundation Piecing
3
7
2
1
6
4
5
Foundation-paper-piecing pattern
Pattern includes an outer 1/4" seam allowance
and creates a 6" finished block.
Pattern is reversed for
foundation paper piecing.
Martingale grants permission for photocopying this page only.
9 Paper-Foundation Piecing