- Berg + Schmidt

Transcription

- Berg + Schmidt

Natural solutions
for modern formulators
Florence Olechowski,
R&D Manager Cosmetics
April 2014
A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe
07.04.2014
Titel der Präsentation
1
Berg + Schmidt
Natural solutions for modern formulators
1. Biodegradability
2. Solutions from nature
3. Cold process
2
Berg + Schmidt
1. Biodegradability
3. Cold process
3
Berg + Schmidt
Biodegradability
Fifty-four percent of the shoppers
interviewed consider sustainability to be
one of their decision making factors and are
„leaning green” (biodegradable products)*
Nappy sacks, house and car care products, clothes…
A sales argument for cosmetic brands too:
- Biodegradable, vegan hair care by “Faith In Nature”
- Biodegradable, makeup remover wipes by “La Fresh”
- Biodegradable, chemical-free nail polish by “Priti”
*Source: 2009 GMA/Deloitte Green Shopper Study
4
Biodegradability
Biodegradability - The silicone problem
D4 and D5 are persistent and have the potential to bioaccumulate
in aquatic organisms*
Properties in skin care
 Inert for the skin
 Colorless/odorless
 Light feeling, sensory enhancer
*Source: http://www.ec.gc.ca/substances/ese/eng/challenge/batch2/batch2_556-67-2.cfm ii Environment Canada and Health Canada. Screening Assessment for the Challenge: Decamethyl
cyclopentasiloxane (D5). November
5
Biodegradability
BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care
 Very quick penetration
 Leaves a pleasant,
non- sticky satin feeling
 Powdery skin sensation
Clean Label: silicone-free, no compromise in respect of texture.
6
Biodegradability
BergaCare FG 5 - the ideal alternative to cyclomethicone in skin care
BergaCare FG 5, a synergistic dosage of esters and unsaponifiables,
readily biodegradable.
Advantages in skin care
 Light feeling, simulates the skin feeling of D5
 Nourishes the skin: elasticity and softness
 Transparent liquid, colorless/odorless,
with low viscosity
7
Biodegradability – BergaCare FG 5
Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion
Phase
A
B
C
Product
INCI Name
%(w/w)
BergaCare FG 5
Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic
Capric Triglycerides
6,0
Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis
(Jojoba) Seed Oil
0,7
Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil
1,3
Montanov 68
Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside
2,5
BergaSom Sun 75H
Pioneer 37 P
Glycerin
Water demineralised
Preservative/Fragrance
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Sodium Carboxyvinyl Polymer
Glycerin
Aqua
-
0,8
0,2
1,0
Up to 100
q.s.
Suggestions for use and application of products and guide formulations are intended for information purposes only and are without commitment.
Berg + Schmidt customers should not use these suggestions as a substitute to testing the suitability of product for their intended use.
The user of the products is solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations relating to the use of the products, including intellectual properties rights and third parties.
8
Biodegradability
BergaSoft - modern surfactants
BergaSoft SCI 80: Readily biodegradable
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, 78% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 D)
BergaSoft SCG 22: Readily biodegradable
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate, 83-86% after 28 days (OECD Guideline 301 B)
Advantages of BergaSoft
 Mild surfactants
 Sulfate-free, EO-free
 Derivatives of renewable raw materials
 Preservative-free
 Good performances
9
Biodegradability - BergaSofts
Base for creamy rinse-off formulation
Phase
A
B
Product
INCI Name
% (w/w)
BergaSoft SCG 22
Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
5,5
BergaSoft SCI 80
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
17,4
Vegarol 1618 50:50
Palmac 50-18
Cetearyl Alcohol
Stearic acid
3,3
5,5
Water demineralised
Aqua
Up to 100
-
q.s.
10
Berg + Schmidt
1. Biodegradability
3. Cold process
11
Berg + Schmidt
Solutions from nature
 Consumers are now thinking carefully about resources
 The boom of the “green” labels
 The global demand for organic personal care was over
$7.6 billion in 2012 and is expected to reach $13.2 billion by 2018.*
 Even exclusive brands are claiming to be eco-friendly or chemical-free.
* http://www.gcimagazine.com/marketstrends/segments/skincare/Demand-for-Organic-Beauty-to-Grow-to-Over-13-Billion-by-2018-Report-Says-213160491.html
12
BergaCare SB - refined shea butter:
Advantages at a glance
 Natural emollient
 High percentage of unsaponifiable matter
 Controlled production for premium quality
 Wide range of applications
 Good origin with marketing opportunities
BergaCare SB - different forms available to fit the application:
crude, refined, organic, high melting point, olein
13
Solutions from nature - BergaCare SB
Base for body butter containing 15% shea butter
Phase
A
B
C
Product
INCI Name
% (w/w)
BergaCare SB
Avocado Oil
Onagra Oil
BergaCare EM-14
BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40
Vegarol 22
BergaBest GS SE
BergaCare EM-CP
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
BergaMuls HL 50
demin. Water
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
15,0
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Oenothera Biennis Oil
Isopropyl Myristate
Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
Behenyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate SE
Cetyl Palmitate
Glyceryl Stearate Citrate
Lysolecithin
Aqua
-
6,0
4,0
8,0
6,0
2,0
3,0
4,0
3,0
0,5
up to 100
q.s.
14
BergaScrub - natural alternative to PE/PP beads
PE/PP are produced from petrochemical origin
 Natural, ecologically sound, renewable,
non-GMO, readily biodegradable
 Different particle sizes available  abrasive as wished
 High melting point
Competitive
 Odorless, colorless  no effect on final formulation
 Smooth surface  painless
15
Solutions from nature - BergaScrub
Base for transparent peeling shower gel
Phase
A
Product
INCI Name
% (w/w)
BergaScrub 350
BergaSoft SCG 22
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
1,0
8,0
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate
6,0
Cocamido Propyl Betaine
5,0
Guar Gum
Guar Gum
0,5
Keltrol CG-SFT
Xanthan gum
0,8
demin. Water
Aqua
-
up to 100
q.s.
16
BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine
INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin
Phosphatidylcholine (PC)
 12-18% in standard lecithin
 BergaSom range:
• 50 to 90% PC
• Classic or hydrogenated
 Suits every application
Chemical structure of phosphatidylcholine
Available as a product of soy or sunflower seeds  non GMO
17
BergaSom - highly purified phosphatidylcholine
INCI Name: Lecithin or hydrogenated lecithin
High PC content:
High PC content, hydrogenated :
 Source of linoleic acid
 Protects the skin
 Enhances penetration of active
ingredients
 Stabilizes TEWL
 Anticomedogenic
 No oxidation possible
 Conditions the horny layer
 Source of choline
 Supports formation of ceramide I
Physical features: liposomes,
nano-emulsion, lipogel, …
Physical features: lipid membrane
structure, liposomes, …
18
Solutions from nature - BergaSom
Base for silicone-free light touch emulsion
Phase
A
B
C
Product
INCI Name
%(w/w)
BergaCare FG 5
Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl Palmitate (and)
Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables (and)
Caprylic Capric Triglycerides
6,0
Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia Chinensis
(Jojoba) Seed Oil
0,7
Avocado Oil
Persea Gratissima (avocado) Oil
1,3
Montanov 68
Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside
2,5
BergaSom Sun 75H
Hydrogenated Lecithin
0,8
Pioneer 37 P
0,2
Glycerin
Water demineralised
Glycerin
Aqua
-
1,0
Up to 100
q.s.
19
Berg + Schmidt
1. Biodegradability
3. Cold process
20
Berg + Schmidt
Cold process
 90% of the energy is used for heating the water
and oil phases to 75-80°C*
 Saves time, since no cooling is needed
 Sensitive ingredients can be added earlier
 Significantly lower overall carbon footprint
for the companies/brands
 Requires special raw materials from fatty phase to emulsifiers
* Russel Cox: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/research/methodsprocesses/premium-Cold-Processing-of-Emulsions-218867771.html
21
Cold process
BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers
INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin
 Highly innovative and exclusive compound
 Powerful emulsifying and efficient thickening properties
 Natural, renewable
 Can be processed cold but is also heat resistant
 Easy to use (wide pH range, no incompatibility even at a high percentage
electrolytes or UV filters, all kinds of oil polarities…)
 Neutral feeling on the skin for elegant final skin care products
22
Cold process
BergaMuls ET 1 - fruit and cereal fibers
INCI name: Beta Glucan (and) Pectin
Conditions
Realized with approx.
30% BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40
(caprylic capric triglyceride),
3% BergaMuls ET 1, made up
to 100% with distilled water.
Brookfield measurement
SP 5, 20 rpm
Temperature does not affect the performance of BergaMuls ET 1
23
Cold process - BergaMuls ET 1
Base for foot cream with 15% Urea
Phase
A
B
C
Product
INCI Name
% (w/w)
BergaMuls ET 1
Beta Glucan (and) Pectin
2,4
BergaCare SB
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter
4,0
BergaCare EM-16
BergaBest MCT Oil 60/40
Pionier® NP 37 G
demin. Water
Glycerin
Urea
Isopropyl Palmitate
Caprylic/capric Triglycerides
Aqua
Glycerin
Urea
-
4,0
4,0
0,2
67,4
2,3
15,0
q.s.
24
Cold process
BergaMuls HL - hydrolyzed lecithin
INCI name: Lysolecithin

Hydrolyzation: mild and natural
process  less steric hindrance

2 grades available :
BergaMuls HL 25 and 50
Emulsions just
after production
Standard lecithin (STD)
vs BergaMuls HL 50
3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50
77% demin. water
25
Cold process

Hydrolyzation: mild and natural
process  less steric hindrance

2 grades available :
BergaMuls HL 25 and 50
Emulsions after
centrifugation
Standard lecithin (STD)
vs BergaMuls HL 50
3% SDT or BergaMuls HL 50
77% demin. water
26
Cold process
 High level of hydrolysis
 Good emulsification performance
 Efficient wetting properties
 Promotes dispersion
 Multifunctional
 Cold-processable emulsifier
 Emollient for the skin
 Usable in spray formulations
 Anti-static agent/conditioner for the hair
27
Cold process - BergaMuls HL 50
Base for cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners
Phase
A
B
C
D
Product
INCI Name
% (w/w)
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
Sodium Laureth Sulfate
20,0
8,0
BergaCare SB-RO
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil
1,0
BergaMuls HL 50
Keltrol CG-SFT
Glycerin
demin. Water
Citric Acid
NaCl
Lysolecithin
Xanthan gum
Glycerin
Aqua
1,0
0,3
2,0
up to 100
up to wished pH
0,8
q.s.
Sodium Chloride
-
28
Cold process
BergaCare SB-RO - refined shea olein
 Natural liquid emollient  cold-processable
 High percentage of unsaponifiable matter
 Controlled production for premium quality
 Novel applications possible, such as rinse-off
formulations
 Good origin with marketing opportunities
29
Cold process - BergaCare SB-RO
Base for hair oil repair
Phase
A
Product
INCI Name
% (w/w)
BergaCare FG 5
Ethylhexyl Stearate (and) Ethylhexyl
Palmitate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil
Unsaponifiables (and) Caprylic Capric
Triglycerides
25,2
BergaMuls HL 50
Lysolecithin
2,0
BergaCare SB-RO
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil
36,0
Jojoba Oil
Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
5,0
BergaCare EM-14
Isopropyl myristate
16,1
Sunflower Oil
Helianthus Annus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
9,2
Abricot Oil
Tocopherol acetate
Ethanol
Prunus Armeniaca kernel Oil
Tocopherol acetate
Ethanol
3,0
0,5
3,0
30
Cold process
BergaSoft SCG 22 - soft sulfate-free surfactant
INCI name: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate
Advantages
 Liquid surfactant  cold-processable
 Based on renewable raw materials
 Transparent under certain pH conditions
 Contains no preservative
 Improves rinsing properties of the finished product
 Fresh feeling on the skin
 Easy to thicken
 High foaming performance
31
Cold process - BergaSoft SCG 22
Base for micellar water, cold-processed
Phase
Product
INCI Name
% (w/w)
Wasser
Aqua
91,5
Pentylene glycol
1,2 Pentandiol
3,0
Glycerin
Glycerin
2,0
BergaSoft SCG221
0,6
BergaCare EM-HE71
PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate
0,9
Glycerin, Water, Methylglucoside
Phosphate, Copper
Lysinate/Prolinate
1,0
Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract
Avena Sativa (Oat) Extract (and)
Water
1,0
-
q.s.
A
Noedermyl ®
Suppliers :
2
1 Berg + Schmidt
2 Induchem/Permcos
32
Formulations
 Silicone-free light touch emulsion
 Creamy rinse-off formulation
 Body butter with 15% Shea Butter
 Transparent & Sulfate-free peeling shower gel
 Foot cream with 15% Urea
 Cold processed shampoo with natural conditioners
 Hair Oil repair
 Micellar water
33
You find us at
hall A1, stand 1B60
34
Thank you for your attention.
Berg + Schmidt
Florence Olechowski
R&D Manager Cosmetics
An der Alster 81
20099 Hamburg
Phone: +49( 0)40 284 039-0
[email protected]
www.berg-schmidt.de
07.04.2014
Titel der Präsentation
A member of the Stern-Wywiol Gruppe
35

- Berg + Schmidt

Transcription

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