January - Peace Corps Panama Friends
Transcription
January - Peace Corps Panama Friends
... Over sixty ounces of fried sea food product went into the making of this issue of La Vaina. Our Editors’ message is lifted directly from the menu at La Cascada on Avenida Balboa. The first five La Vaina readers to correctlyguess which fifteen La Cascada menu words we have interchanged with our own, will win the opportunity to treat the La Vaina staff to dinner at La Cascada early next year. All readers of La Vaina magazine for every one of us that is working here are the most important people in the whole word for us because is of them indirectly throu their consuming they pay our salaries and maintain this magazine so we can have ourselves a job. La Vaina is really worth to share with your family and to recommend it after to your friends, so that they can read her too, and be pleased and grateful to you. Now, if you do not have time, desire, interest or curiosity to read all of La Vaina, please let us help and guide you to find what might interest you in seconds. We also make clear that if you offer us a piece of writing and if we just find one little sentence which is not perfect, we are informing you with lots of sorrow and pain, that all the piece of writing will be rejected and we are returning it without any consideration or mercy, and that is because we can never afford to risk because there might appear another little sentence that is not perfect either. We welcome new editor Greg Landrigan. Much has been said about the beauty of “The Greg Landrigan”, but if you really want to enjoy the pleasures he offers, you must visit “The Greg Landrigan” but don’t be surprised if you find him innocent and naked wearing the free invincible air as a dress, foto por Ann M. and exotic tropical plants, flowers and jasmines as jewelry and perfume. However, if you did not like the service Greg provided here because he was slow, rustic, incult, inattentive impolite, rude, indifferent, making bad faces, embittered, acting like a despot… we will appreciate very much if you tell us in person by informing the supervisor. Happy New Year, John Sturm, Jessica Samples, and Greg Landrigan cover foto por Jon P.; back cover por Wakan La Vaina Table of Contents January - March 2006 From the Suits... 4-5........................................................ De la Jefa por Jean Lujan 6-7 .................... ....................From the PTO por Peter Redmond 8............... Environmental Conservation por Francisco Santamaria 9 .................................................Talking Business por Pablo Garrón 10-11...............Aropeucaria Sostenible Update por Jason Cochran 12-13.....................................................EH Update por Greg Branch 13..............From the Training Director’s Desk por Raul Ramieriez 14..................................... From the Mistress Trainer por Barbara 15..........................Curandera’s Notes por Dra. Lourdes Rodriguez foto por Sara L. Next La Vaina deadline - March 1, 2006 foto por Uriah Announcements, Articles, etc... 16.............................................................................WID/GAD Udpate 17-18....................................................................................VAC Update 19......................................................................................Youth Groups 20-22........,.......................................................Lorena Stove Case Study 23......................................................................Computing in the Campo 24-25, 28.............................................................................Coooperatives 26-27..........................................................................Katie Skaar Attacks 29.........................................................................................Compost Fun 30-31....................,,........................................Seed Project International 31..................................................................................Double Dug Beds 32-35......................................................................................About Seeds 36...........................................................................................Pet Advice 38-39...........................................................................Sex and the Campo 40.............................................................................................Pepe el Pez 41.....................................................................................Essay and Poem 42-43.............................................................................Dost’s Happy Trail 44.............................................................................................Fake News 45............................................................................................Real News 46................................................................................................Quotes 46.............................................................................Volunteers Speak Out 47-51.....................................................................................Ciao Pela’os Submission Policy: All subject matter is welcome. We will not print articles which demean or slander Panama or Panamanians. We also cannot print exceptionally funny jokes, unless they are ours. Keep in mind who might read La Vaina--Presidents, chiefs of state, kings, and the like. We will try to correct spellin’, punc-tuation, and grammars, unless your article is really long or in Spanish. We get tired. The content of the articles will not be touched unless it is deemed to go beyond the boundaries of decency as the CD Judges. This newsletter is for the Peace Corps community, so it is what you make of it. Contribute, give suggestions, and SUBMIT! We appreciate your support. Article Guidelines: All articles of various subject matter are welcome. You will make the editors’ job a lot easier if you would please adhere to these guidelines: 1. Please e-mail your articles/photos to [email protected], or submit the articles on disk/CD. Do not handwrite your articlesas we can no longer pay immigrant labor to type them. 2. Don’ t try to show off your sk1llz with WORD by formatting your article with ‘groovy’ fonts and ‘far out’ images. Pagemaker doesn’t dig that. 3. Please do not send submissions, especially pictures, to our personal email accounts. That’s what we have the La Vaina email account for. La Vaina Del Jefe Peter Redmond I am speaking of the “more money” platform: the notion that what Africa needs is more prestige projects, volunteer labor and debt relief….Dumping more money in the same old way is not only wasteful, but stupid and harmful…” -Paul Theroux, (RPCV Malawi, famous travelogue author) New York Times OpEd, December 15, 2005 I hope you all enjoyed the holidays and are settling back into your normal routines in your communities. So much has happened over these past few months and it is always difficult to summarize them in this little missive—so over the coming months expect more email updates to supplement this quarterly. I will continue to use this space to articulate my vision for PC/Panama and to highlight the great work of our Volunteers. First, I hope you all have a chance to read the Paul Theroux Op-Ed article from the New York Times reprinted in this foto por Wakan issue. Theroux critiques Paul Hewson (better known as Bono from U-2) and his crusade to reduce the oppressive debt carried by the world’s poorest countries in Africa. Theroux notes that behind Bono’s actions are a desire to sink good money into programs and governments that can not and will not properly account for the money spent. He laments that Malawi’s development was in fact undermined by Peace Corps’ willingness to continue sending volunteer schoolteachers in place of locals. So what does this mean for Peace Corps/Panama? First, it is important to learn from history as Peace Corps celebrates its 45 years enhancing world peace and friendship. As I have said in past articles, friendship 4 building is what comes most easily for Volunteers—it is the development work we promote that is the most critical and most tricky. Theroux makes us think critically about our role as development workers. I’m more sanguine about Peace Corps’ role in development in Panama than Theroux is about Peace Corps’ role in Malawi. First, we make sure that no Volunteer is taking a job from Panamanians. Second, we promote the training-of-trainers, community leaders and others with the goal of working ourselves out of a job. Third, we bill ourselves primarily as a human resource and not a fountain of money. And where we do support projects financially (SPA, VAST, Partnership Projects) we demand accountability and transparency, two cures to the corruption that Theroux derides. One thing I like to talk to trainees and to Volunteers about is that your Peace Corps service is an on-going dialogue about sustainable development – a dialogue that goes on in your communities, between you and your friends and inside your own head. PCV Mark Samples recently button-holed me on the development dialogue when he presented four incredibly complex questions about the development philosophy Paulo Freire, author of the PEDAGOGY OF THE OPPRESSED. Attempting to answer any of those questions thoughtfully would mean a return to graduate school to pursue a doctoral dissertation. But without trying to simplify Freire’s important work and to do justice to Mark’s intent, I would encourage you all to read Freire and to continue this dialogue—in the La Vaina, by email, and in late night talks about what it is you are trying to accomplish in your two years with Peace Corps. From my reading of Freire, his development views can be simplified to the following: Those who try to help the oppressed (the poor, the downtrodden, the disenfranchised) become oppressors themselves when they try to do anything FOR or TO others. It is only when we work WITH—when we walk in their shoes and work side-by-side—that we can stop being oppressors and help others liberate themselves. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 Welcome, Ricardo! Peace Corps Panama staff and volunteers welcome Ricardo Greco, our new MedEvac / Administrative Assistant. Ricordo comes to us from Dell computers with impeccable English, a warm and friendly demeanor, and a strong commitment to the Peace Corps mission in his native Panama. Stop in and say hello to our newest team member! While we often fall short of Freire’s hopes, we continue to strive for this ideal. HIV/AIDS Awareness and Prevention: Peace Corps celebrated World AIDS Day with an éxito of an HIVAIDS prevention seminar in Ustupu, Kuna Yala led by PCV Allison Musser and a new Kuna youth group. Globally, nearly 8,500 people die from AIDS each day; this past year another 5 million people became infected. In Panama, Kuna Yala has one of the highest rates of HIVAIDS infection, and in the Central American region, Panama has the second highest rate of infection. As part of our continuing focus on HIVAIDS prevention, Peace Corps/Panama will host an All-Peace Corps Conference, March 7-10, 2006. Allison, Roy Knoedler and other PCVs are working hard with PTO Nick Metes to make this the best annual conference ever. So keep your eyes peeled for more information as the agenda develops. Huge thanks to Allison and Dost BardouilleCrème who have helped coordinate VAST project proposals for Volunteers hoping to do HIVAIDS prevention in their communities. La Vaina any questions or concerns about the incident I would be happy to talk with you. Your safety and security are number one for me, as I’m sure it is for your families. Kuna Yala: I’ll be meeting in late December with the leaders of Congreso General Kuna. Our future in Kuna Yala is still in flux as we discuss the status of our convenio with the Congreso General and our ability to provide safe sites for PCVs. Over the past few years, the PCVs of Kuna Yala have done some of our best development work supporting some very motivated communities. Despite isolation and security issues, these PCVs have maintained a terrific attitude and work ethic. The Kuna foto por Jon P. have been generous hosts to more than 15 Volunteers these past three years and we are hoping to continue this productive relationship. Cost of Living Surveys: I’ve extended the submission of the Cost of Living Survey data to January 30, 2006. Please complete this mandatory exercise so we can determine if your current monthly stipend is adequate. Call or email Erubey ([email protected]) or Greta ([email protected]) if you have any trouble completing the survey on-line. foto por Jon P. Welcome to PTO Nick Metes: Please make sure you say hello to our new Deputy Director/Programming and Training Officer Nick Metes. He has jumped right into the job and has been extremely impressed with the quantity and quality of the work of our Volunteers. With more than 30 years and 10 countries worth of development experience, we are lucky to have Nick on board. Volunteer Safety: Many of you have heard about the burning of a Volunteer house in Bocas del Toro and the subsequent reassignment of the two PCVs affected by this event, a symptom of a larger land conflict between the community and a wealthy land owner. If you have [email protected] 5 La Vaina From The PTO Nick Metes Greetings from the new PTO. As most of you know, I arrived at the end of the month of October and I vaguely remember hearing something about taking it easy at first so that I would have time to settle in. Well, given the fast pace of Peace Corps Panama, I felt like I was running after a train that would alternately speed up and slow down. I caught up a couple of times but then it seemed to be pulling away from me again. I am very impressed by the work and professional manner in which you carry out your PC service. Although I have a total of 16 years in the PC, I have rarely found a group with your dedication and real interest in making the best possible impact in Panama. I became a PCV in 1973, after completing graduate work in forestry. I almost didn’t join since my application, made early in 1972, was turned down due to lack of suitable assignments. When I saw an announcement for a position with a forestry school in Honduras, I called PC HQ and within two weeks they were hounding me to get ready to attend language training in Puerto Rico. I complied and it was only because my mother offered to type up my Masters research on her typewriter, that I was able to both complete grad school and join the Peace Corps. Back in 1972 computers were the size of my office and programs required shoe boxes full of data cards. It’s a wonder we ever got anything done, or is it. Being a PCV in Honduras was a wonderful experience which I will always cherish. In addition to marrying my secretary, I made countless friends among the people from Siguatepeque, the Honduran Forest Service 6 employees and students who passed through the forestry school. After PC I went back to the states and worked in the forest products industry for a few years. Before I knew it I had applied for an APCD position in Honduras and off we went, with the foto por Jon P. addition of our son Sergio. It was great to be back in my old stomping grounds and being paid to do what I always felt was one of the best jobs possible, i.e. APCD. After five plus years and the arrival of our daughter Nicole, they kicked me out as per custom and I went directly to Peru, where I worked on a large USAID natural resource management project, as the project coordinator. It was one of the most interesting projects I have ever seen or heard of, probably because it included components of forestry, protected area management, agriculture, livestock, community development in indigenous communities, road maintenance and regional development. The fact that the project director and over half of the advisors were RPCVs, certainly contributed to the project’s effectiveness. By the time I had spent close to six years in Peru, I was ready for the Peace Corps again and Paraguay came a calling as they needed an APCD for natural resources. I narrowed down the five projects I inherited into agroforestry and environmental education. That seemed to work well for us and again in five plus years they kicked me out again. The fact that I knew it was coming didn’t make leaving any easier. After returning to the states I experienced what one might say was a “difficult period” “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 during which I pursued a number of different short term employment opportunities to the extent that some people thought I was “on the lamb” moving from job to job. Nevertheless, I learned something from everyone of those jobs and before getting back into development work I spent the better part of a year providing logistic support to a humanitarian canine demining project in Honduras and Nicaragua. It was an important activity that brought together the governments of Honduras, Nicaragua and the US in a joint effort. While I was working in Nicaragua I became aware of an interesting agriculture rehabilitation effort developed in response to Hurricane Mitch that had devastated Honduras and Nicaragua in October of 1998. (I was actually in Danli, Honduras, during the entire Hurricane). I spent the rest of 1999 through 2001 living in Managua and working in Northern Nicaragua, coordinating the World Relief efforts which included agriculture extension and some food for work activities. La Vaina This was the first time my wife left the kids, grown up, at home. By the beginning of 2002 I was back in the states (New Hampshire) waiting to hear from , guess who? Right, the Peace Corps. By now they were calling me a retread and a recycle but they hired me anyway to work at HQ, supporting my former APCD colleagues in the field. After three and a half years in DC, I made a break for it and landed on my feet, I think, just outside the Miraflores Locks, where I hope to spend another two plus years working with some of the best PCVs and Staff , in all of Peace Corps. I am glad to be here and look forward to visiting your regions and to the extent possible your sites. I will work with the programming and training staff to support you, providing an opportunity for you to serve safely and effectively. Best wishes for 2006. foto por Josh C. [email protected] 7 La Vaina Community Economic Development Pablo Garron Como estan todos!!!! Bueno aquí estoy al final de una larga semana de visitas a los sitios de varios Voluntarios. Parece que al acercarse mi vacación (dic 23 al ene 16) me parece que las semanas se hacen cada vez maaaaaaas largas. Hoy día llegue a la oficina después de terminar con un episodio en la vida de un APCD, la relocalización de un Voluntario. Como todos ustedes ya saben, sea por medio oficial o como la familia de anfitriona de David Z. por el medio del bochinche, uno de nuestros nuevos PCVs, Alan Daub tuvo que ser retirado del hermoso lugar en la frontera con Costa Rica, al lado del rió Sixaola, llamado Las Delicias. Bueno ahora se encuentra disfrutando de una nueva familia anfitriona en un nuevo sitio bastante diferente al que tenía antes, pero con una organización que se encuentra desarrollando un plan de turismo en un área protegida. Buena suerte Alan !!!!. IPACOOP nos invito con muy poco tiempo de aviso a una reunión anual que quieren tener para evaluar los resultados de nuestro convenio, ellos se encuentran ansiosos de conocer de parte de ustedes lo que esta funcionando bien, que se tiene que mejorar y cual es la estrategia para este año. En la otra edición de esta Vaina, les mandaré los resultados. Mar 31 al Abr 2 Campamento verano de Muchachas Guías Además de estas fechas, no se olviden de mis visitas de sitio que ya están programadas, espero poder verlos en acción, ya sea dando capacitaciones o presentaciones con sus contrapartes, algunos ya me enviaron sus preferencias de comida, así que ya me estoy alistando. Este fin de semana va a ser muy bueno, Pittsburgh Steelers van a derrotar a los Vikings de Jason, digo de Minnesota!!!! Y con eso espero que clasifiquen a la postemporada. Ya esta cerca el final del 2005, es un buen momento para que todos nosotros evaluemos nuestro trabajo, nuestra vida, nuestros objetivos y redefinamos nuestras metas. Denle duro!! Que les vaya siempre bien y cuenten conmigo para su apoyo. “You can do anything if you have enthusiasm. Enthusiasm is the yeast that makes your hopes rise to the stars. With it, there is accomplishment. Without it there are only alibis”. -Henry Ford Desde el próximo mes de Enero, voy a empezar con la búsqueda de nuevo sitios y me gustaría saber si alguno de ustedes tiene idea de un lugar que puede o parece ser bueno para un Voluntario de CED, pueden avisar al Líder Regional o me mandan un email para que yo lo ponga dentro de la lista. No se olviden de las fechas importantes que vienen, Feb 6 al 10 IST en Cedeso Feb 17 al 18 Muchachas Guías Training for leaders Mar 7 al 9 All Vol Conference 8 foto por Wakan “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 Environmental Health Greg “Goyo” Branch Go with the people. Live with them. Learn from them. Love them. Start with what they know. Build from what they have. But the best of leaders, when the job is done, the task accomplished, The people will say “We have done this ourselves”. -Lao Tsu China 700 B.C. Hooooowdy ho!!!!! Y’all smell like flowers! This is the second Vaina article in a row where I have the pleasure of writing to you from the interior. The availability of these Peace Corps laptops is slim to no chance … this week call me slim. So, I write from under this December full moon, when most of the inhabitants of the campo are already in deep slumber. I am not only kept awake by the Vaina deadline tomorrow, but by wonder. Wonder is a great word. The laptop thesaurus gives several related tangents on the word: thought, speculate, contemplate, cogitate, question, marvel, consider. All which would define the thoughts of my current wandering mind. See, I am on my way back from visiting several EH PCVs. My current speculation is the depth of the impact foto por Kristen A. that one’s volunteer service has on both the Volunteer and the community members the PCV interacts with. I marvel at the possibilities, question the intention of both parties, consider the potential outcomes, cogitate about the variables, and contemplate the implications. I have reached this state of mind for several reasons. First of all, come March, I will have spent the past 8 years of my life working in the organization of Peace Corps. Second of all, last month I went back to my site in El Salvador and revisited my footsteps as a Volunteer. Lastly I just spent a week with my parents… ‘nuf said. Throw in the New Year full of reflection and aspirations and you have a wonderin’ APCD. At the core of the apple (where you find the seeds), I do believe that Peace Corps does amazing things. Sometimes as tangible as a cosmic egg hatching, sometimes as intangible as the benefits of a poop safely falling into a compost latrine. This I know. As I nestled my bug bitten back into a homemade hammock sitting down to beans and tortillas in El Salvador, I was convinced. I am forever changed by my Volunteer experiences and my community had not forgotten me and why I was there. foto por Kristen A. The kids had remembered the secret handshake, community leaders were quick to tell me how the community was developing, and I was genuinely interested in current well- being of the people. The school was still making the kids do community trash clean-ups, more than a dozen new composting latrines had been built with their own money, the community water well was up and running, and the directiva had been re-elected and legalized to manage community development. My blind neighbor who had turned 98 since my last visit (see Vaina article from 4/04) got up out of his hammock at the sound of my voice. My service there was powerful… for me and my community. This I know. I came straight to Peace Corps Panama after El Salvador. I had four days from my COS to APCD. I had the unique opportunity to create a project for Peace Corps based on my experience, which I called Environmental Health. Monday at the office I downloaded my files onto this laptop. Upon opening my La Vaina folder I found my first Vaina article written on October 10th, 2001. If I may cut and paste… Hola socios de la gran familia de Cuerpo de Paz Panama!! PC Panama is birthing all foto por Kristen A. kinds of new [email protected] 9 La Vaina that my first five days here totaled 62 working hours, “welcome to the real world”. As a PCV, people talked about getting a “real job” after Peace Corps. I never bought that. Time as Peace Corps Volunteer was as real as it ever got. I am a firm believer that life is all about attitude. Work should not be separate from play, time should not be dictated by minutes and calendars, and success should not be measured by hard facts. …So, again if there is anything I can help you with, get a hold of me. My cell phone is 671-2558. If you can help me with any information regarding sites, agencies, EH related projects in your area, or anything, anything at all, please call, email or come see me in my new office in your conference room. Thanks y’all and keep up the good work! foto por Jacobo S. positions here in the office and I am one of the newborns. As such, I am a wide-eyed toddler learning every day, from you elders who have been here, working within the program, with rural Panamanians. However, I am no orphan. My parents have been the Peace Corps Program in El Salvador. I was a Water/Sanitation Health Volunteer there from March of 1998 until last September. I remained working in my site for three years and four months while occasionally helping with training and the programming of the sector. All and all I am most excited to be here and starting this program. One thing that is becoming very to clear to me is this. Worldwide, you have it damn good as a volunteer. When your two years or more are done, you will never be the same, and you will never be able to go back and do it the same way. So relish the time, the ups and downs, the rewards and disappointments, the struggles and challenges, living with the weather, the children, the friendships created, and the experience. You and your community will never be the same. An old friend just told me after I explained to him 10 Yup, when I got here I had a corner of the conference room that was my office. In the more than four years since I have been here, PC Panama has come a long way. I feel PC Panama is a stronger program than the post I left in El Salvador. One of the strongest in the region if not the world, if I may be honestly bold. We now enjoy a very dedicated staff and Volunteers that have a foto por Jacobo S. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 From the Training Director’s Desk foto por Jacobo S. Raul Ramirez Hi Dear Volunteers: First of all, I just want to give big KUDOS to the whole team that participated in the Reconnect IST for Group #55, I heard nothing but great comments about it. Thanks a lot! better structure to work with. My hat off to the Regional Leaders as always, how much they are able to do and the Volunteer support they are able to provide. Take advantage of them. Peace Corps Panama is a great place to serve as a Volunteer. This I know. As you may have heard, training staff will take off today on vacation and will be back on January 17th, just on time for Group #55 PDM in CEDESO from January 23-27, 2006. To be literary, I guess I need a paragraph on my time with my parents, to sum up my wondering. My mum and pop always make me see the big picture. Float above myself and see myself from afar. Inherently I know that parents generally want that their children feel successful and happy. Parents have different ways of expressing that, but deep down they really want their kids to be the shining disco ball at the top of the dance floor. Even if they are the only ones dancing. After my time with them on the plane, enjoying a sunset at 30,000 feet, I returned to Panama feelin’ real good about what I am doing with my life. The past two weeks visiting and being inspired by Volunteers in the Darien and the Ngobe Bugle Comarca, I am sure of it. Life is good. This I know. Group #55 PDM will take place from Monday, January 23 - 26. Remember to bring your community assessment and analysis. Looks like I am going to wrap this issue up with a whole lot of philosophical rambling and not much tech. Not the first time. However I must highlight the service of EH PCV Ian Jarvis. The longest serving PCV in his site that I have ever heard of in PC Panama. Even has my service in El Salvador beat by 4 months. One of the pioneering 7 EH Volunteers from 2002. Group 47. I wish I had a Harry Potter newspaper to capture his personality and charisma. He has been a tremendous friend and Volunteer. Happy trails amigo and stay away from the police. 4/3/2006 5/17/2006 6/27/2006 8/16/2006 Upcoming Events Reconnect IST for Group #56 The reconnect IST will take place as planned from February 6-10, 2006. Arriving Monday 23rd by dinner and take off Friday morning. We will have technical session Tuesday, cross-sector on Wednesday and language on Thursday and Friday. We will contact you to organize it based on your needs. Attention Group #53 – Training Class 04-01 Your COS conference is scheduled to take place February 21-23. It will take place in Hotel Campestre, El Valle de Antón, Cocle province. Coming Soon… 4/7/2007 7/27/2006 6/29/2006 10/26/2006 PDM Group 56 PST 06-01 COS Conference Group 54 PST 06-02 Group 56 is well on their way and so far no ETs since training. A special thanks to all of you, staff and Volunteers, for inspiring me in my day to day work. May we continue to spread world peace and community development in everything we do. The full moon has climbed high overhead and I bid y’all a good night. [email protected] 11 La Vaina Machetero’s Mensaje Jason “Cocobolo” Cochran We are your Dengue leaders of Panama! “Oh,” I said sheepishly, “Uh, right. How about I have the article to you in 15 minutes?” So I am sitting here at the computer writing back to Scott O. from Cerro Ote confirming his agenda for this great coffee seminar he is doing up in Boquete when one of La Vaina editors comes frantically to my office demanding my Vaina article. “Fine.” He says as he storms out of my office. “Hey,” I say, “I will get it to you next week.” “Aprecio. I want you folks to know how much Los Aprecio.” He lets off this vicious glare. “You guys had three months to get this done, I need it NOW!” La Vaina staffs are known to be a bit pushy at times, so I push back. “WHAT?!?!” He heard me! [Editor’s note: The above dialogue is entirely fictional in nature and illustrates banter of a sort far wittier than that likely to occur in Jason’s office.] So here is my article. I apologize about not replying to your email, Scott. I hope the seminar went great. “Listen buddy, volunteers are my priority, can’t you see that I am working on important emails right now? You are just going to have to wait!” At this point he invades my personal space, peers into my email message (Erubey, isn’t that against some kind of computer policy), points an accusing finger at it and says, “Idiot, that email is from October! Scott has already had the seminar!” 12 “Necio!” I mutter under my breath. Wow! Has it been three months already since the last Vaina? I swear I have put on thousands of miles since then and that does not foto por Trisha W. include my vacation (more on that below)! As you all know, I have been right busy of late. But I must say it is busy in a good way. These last three months could easily go down as the best three months I have had since taking this job. At certain points I have had the chance to take a step back and reflect and it is all coming together. Volunteers from 53 are hitting their stride. Group 55 are settling in quite “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 well and hitting the ground running. Finally, 51 are providing quality and strong leadership. I cannot think of a time that I have enjoyed working for Peace Corps more, and that is really a function of what a great job you are all d o i n g . Tech article: I must admit, I am a bit busy (lazy) this cycle, so I am running a repeat article on leaf cutter ants. Group 51 and 53 you may remember it so don’t ruin the special surprise ending for group 55. Leaf cutter ants are about as annoying as the summer wind to your garden and vivero project, so I hope some of the advice can be useful. La Vaina foto por Trisha W. thing to go to at least once in your life; very cool cultural the mullet is back (at least in Spain); French people are wonderful hosts if you make half an effort to speak French and enjoy their culture and Spain’s Spanish is just plain wonderful to listen to. Part 2: Visiting Sam B, we were chatting the evening away when the neighbor’s dogs killed a skunk. The smell permeated everything and was still in my clothes a week later despite the fact that I had washed them. foto por Sara L. Travel Adventures: Part 1: My wife and I had a wonderful vacation to Spain and France. I highly recommend it, especially if you are in the first couple of years of a marriage. Tourism is part planning and part just being in the right place at the right time. Madrid was a bit of luck as we got to see a changing of the guard followed by a symphonic concert (free). Then later on we stumbled onto a Basque cultural festival (free as well). Finally we were able to take in an opera that was broadcast live on a big screen TV outside the opera house in front of the palace (free!). We also learned that the French can really cook; 1998 was a great year foto por Trisha W. for the Haute-Medoc area of the Bordeaux region; St. Sebastian was almost killed by a dozen or so arrows; St. Jerome had a pet lion and liked to pray in the nude; Picasso, Goya, and Velazequez are darned cool; Mona Lisa is overrated; Venus de Milo is not; two hour lunches with a bottle of wine are a great way to spend a Spanish afternoon; espressos in a café are a great way to spend a crisp, fall French evening; bullfights are brutal but still a Ongoings: 1) Thanks to Penny, Mark, Greg and Casey for their help with the PSR’s last October. Thanks to all of you for getting them in and your patience. This was the best year we have had in compiling PSRs and El Jefe (Peter) was quite pleased. 2) One of the biggest reasons this year was the best has to do with Matt G’s work on the informes. I cannot thank you enough. Just an awesome job. Be looking for your new informes in your emails, as the bugs are mostly worked out. 3) Great job to Scott Overdyke on his coffee work with the second Coffee Seminar in Boquete and for arranging a special training for SAS PCVs. The seminar was a big success and is really giving our coffee program a big boost. Plus the trainings are just another resourceful way you guys are getting technical information necessary for you to be successful in your sites. 4) Great job to Ben and Clarissa for the third of three SPA funded farmer training seminars in Kuna Yala. They have really put a lot of work into them and they have all turned out great. The farmers were so energized and motivated at the [email protected] 13 La Vaina foto por Nicole R. end of the third one that I am sure they will be teaching their neighbors in a matter of months. 5) Thank you to Lindsay, George, Penny, Dan, Loren, Mark, Jacob, Sam, Maria, Tasha, Pete, Ben and Clarissa who have hosted me in their sites since the last article. I have enjoyed all of the visits and you are all doing a great job. 6) Seeds. Now is the time to be harvesting Mecuna. Remember that seeders wants at least 1 pound from everyone so we can get our seed bank built up. Also, if you have any canavalia seeds, pass them our way. We want to be able to give trainees one pound each upon swear-in so they can hit the ground running with the green manures. 7) Get me your monthly calendars. This has been slacking quite a bit lately. 8) My upcoming calendar a. January Volunteer Visits 3rd Greg 4th Wakan 5th Casey b. January other 11th Coffee event in San Felix 12th Vacation day 13th Azuero regional meeting 18-20 Regional leader trainings 20 PACA meeting, open house. I will be looking for volunteers to help me with this. Jan 23- Feb 17 I will be in Washington DC for Over Seas Training (OST). Greg and Franklin will be acting. 14 c. February OST training through the 17th 21-22 COS Conference for Group 53. I am really looking forward to this. d. March 7-10 AVC 23- April 1 Vacation with Mom Rest of month: Site Development 9) Site Development: Starting to look into sites. Follow up sites are a priority followed by coffee, cacao and reforestation. Let me know if you feel your site would be a good follow up. Remember, if we are going to follow up your site, I would prefer that you extend to have at least a one month overlap with the next volunteer. That would mean an extension to September. 10) That is about all; keep up the great work. I am VERY proud to be working with all of you. We are doing amazing things. Keep up the great work. 11) Call the out of site box when out of site, let me know when you are out of site for more than two nights, tip your bartender and be nice to the ayudante on your bus, as they are just doing their jobs even if they are a bit necio at times. VAC Staff Appreciation Award VAC representatives and participating Volunteers have chosen Enfermera Emilia Fuentes for this quarter’s Staff Appreciation Award. Emilia has been with Peace Corps for about a year and a half, but she has been a superstar right from the start. Carrying a bag full of pears—ON A SATURDAY—to Hotel California, she reassured an unsuspecting bug bite victim just released from a week in the hospital. She distracts needle-shy injectees by telling Panamanian folk stories on demand. And with a genuine smile and sympathetic ear, she is on hand to tend to your every health complaint (real or imagined). Unquestionably, it is Emilia’s warmth that separates her from the herd. For some of us, health concerns hovered over our decision to join Peace Corps in the first place. For others, diarrhea, skin infections, or psychological distress can impede our productivity and reduce our quality of life, now that we are here. What good fortune it is for us to be in such capable, but above all, responsive and compassionate hands. On behalf of VAC and La Vaina staff, we wish Emilia, her husband, and two sons an extraordinarily healthy and joyous 2006! “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina CEC y Si Francisco Santamaria I hope that everybody is safe and working happily. Time is flying by and many things are happening in our sector. There are some Volunteers leaving. The Republic of Panama, Peace Corps Panama and the Environmental Conservation Program would like to thank Chiriqui Regional Leader (and CECer) Joshua Campbell, as well as Group 52 Mary E. Smith, Kimberly Portmess, Dana Perls, Anna Galdames, Lauren Fitzgerald and Victoria Fields for all their hard work and dedication to improve the lives of Panamanians. Also, we want to give a GREAT THANKS to Jon and Emily Pfeifer for their time, dedication and great work in Cuipo, Colon. Now you have a new country, friends and a new culture to call your own. Blessings for all of you. Congratulations to: CEC Regional Leaders John Sturm and Sara Lewis for their new position as Regional Leaders of Veraguas and Jordan Reeeves Regional Leader in Chiriquí. New Small Project Assistance grant recipients Katherine Skaar, Patricia Greenberg and Jordan Reeves foto por Norma H. Group 55 Fifteen new Volunteers started their job August 1st. These past four months have been an integration and adaptation period, as well as the beginning of their work with community and agency members. Thanks for your high level of commitment, patience and flexibility. Group 53 For continuing to work with enthusiasm, dedication and perseverance. For all of you leadersand previous and current Volunteers; Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. Past Events October 14: Inauguration of Iguana Project in Cuipo, Colon. (Jon and Emily Pfeifer). Funded by SPA foto por Jessica S. Upcoming Events January 20: Inauguration of Sea Turtle Hatchery in Malena, Veraguas. (Franny White) January 16 to February 24: Panama Verde Summer Camps January to May: Site Development Group 53, if you are thinking of follow-up sites, please let me know because: “Putting Volunteers in follow-up sites is a strategy to ensure the sustainability of the work initiated by the first Volunteers.” foto por [email protected] 15 La Vaina La Chica Mas Segura Safety and Security Coordinator (SSC) Maria Elena Ortiz Welcome and best wishes to Group # 56. Also I would like to say good bye to our Chiricano RL-Joshua Campbell who provides such great support as part of the Safety team. Thanks Josh for all your help. In addition, I would like to welcome Jordan Reeves who will be starting as the new Regional Leader for the Chiriqui area. Lastly, I would like to welcome three new Safety Coordinators: Sarah Kreisman who will be SC for Bocas del Toro, Bridget Olson for the Chiriqui area and John Fazzola/Ashley Thompson for the Darien area. BE AWARE …… PLAZA PAITILLA INN HOTEL 3. If a PCV gets a room at the hotel and he/she is expecting other PCVs, a list of names must be submitted to the receptionist (Agustin Lopez) at the hotel. In that way, the receptionist will not give the key to people that look like Peace Corps Volunteers but are in fact tourists. 4. Last but not least: SHOW RESPECT TO ALL PCVs and ensure a hospitable environment. If this unfortunate situation continues after this official visit, please report it to SSC Maria Elena. INSTRUCTIONS FOR PCVS DURING THE EAP ACTIVATION Recently a PCV was burgled while staying at the Plaza Paitilla Inn. The PCV was vacationing there with her parents. This was not an isolated case; others staying in the same hotel have been victims of theft. Unfortunately, it sounds like crimes like theft and burglary are increasing in this Hotel. Be aware of this situation. If you are considering lodging in this hotel, I highly recommend you not leave any cash or valuables like digital cameras, laptop, etc., and help you avoid future incidents. COSTA AZUL HOTEL On November 23rd, I went to visit Hotel Costa Azul because I was informed that female PCVs were experiencing sexual harassment by people that were staying in the same hotel. Also PCVs were saying that the person in charge of keys for the hotel used to get confused with the room numbers and several people were sent to incorrect hotel rooms that were occupied by PCVs. I talked directly to Mr. José Lourecdo, who is the owner of the hotel to express our concerns about this situation. In order to avoid future incidents I requested to Mr. Lourecdo the following: 1. One floor just for PCVs 2. Official Peace Corps ID (or Passport) must be requested for lodging in order to show that you are a PCV 16 foto por Nicole R. The Emergency Action Plan (EAP) has been developed to enhance the safety of Peace Corps Volunteers in the event of a natural disaster, social unrest or other emergency. Make sure you study the most important points from the EAP. It is very important thatyou become familiar with the EAP and your role in it so that you keep yourself safe. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 foto por Trisha W. BEFORE AN EMERGENCY La Vaina Keep your Site Locator Form up-to-date and accurate. If you are sleeping out of site, call the Outof—Site Box (317-0038 Ext. 201) and tell someone in your village where you will be, when you will return and how to contact you. ALERT PHASE Contact your Safety Coordinator (RL or SC) as soon as you get notified about the alert phase to confirm that you received the alert message. Contact the PC office or SC in the event of any emergency. STANDFAST PHASE After receiving notification of an emergency, stay at home and await further instructions. Establish contact with your Safety Coordinator or another volunteer in your region. Either you call back or send a message (note) to the SC to confirm you have received the message about the standfast phase. Begin packing “emergency bag of essentials.” Do an inventory of personal and PC property that may be left behind. Pay any debts or make arrangements to do so. CONSOLIDATION PHASE Radio message on RPC or phone message will say: “Voluntarios del Cuerpo de Paz favor de presentarse a la reunión regional hoy dia.” Upon notification, proceed to contact back your SC and go to your Consolidation point A.S.A.P. Pack and store all PC and personal property in your home. Bring your Passport. Lock home and bring keys to Consolidation point. Leave pet(s) behind. Notify your Community partner and your landlord that you will be leaving. Ask a friend/neighbor you trust to keep an eye on property you have left behind until you or Peace Corps representative returns to get it. Bring emergency bag of essentials. Only if it is impossible to get to your assigned Consolidation Point should you go to the next closest one. Notify your Safety Coordinator or PC office immediately. Upon arrival to Consolidation Point, check in with the Safety Coordinator. Remain at Consolidation Point until given other instructions by PC staff or Safety Coordinator. EVACUATION PHASE Upon notification to evacuate by PC staff, wait for the arrival of transportation and/or further instructions before leaving your Consolidation Point. Wait for PC staff to provide further instructions. If you are evacuating Panama, PC staff will give you your passport and WHO cards for departure. ALL CLEAR The emergency situation has been resolved. Upon notification by PC staff, you are safe to return to your homes and may resume your normal duties. TIPS FOR REGIONAL LEADERS AND SAFETY COORDINATORS 1. Maintain updated Site Locator Forms (SLFs) for all the PCVs in your assigned region. 2. Log-in when out-of-site, keep your SLF updated. 3. Conduct quarterly Communication Test for PCVs in your region using updated SLFs. 4. When not available or on vacation, find an alternate Safety Coordinator for your region [email protected] 17 La Vaina 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. and notify the PC Safety and Security Coordinator (Maria Elena) or Duty Officer. Maintain adequate relations with your Consolidation Point. Regional Leaders must coordinate with Safety Coordinators in their region to divide the assignment (call PCVs, look for PCVs in their sites, report to SSC-Maria Elena). Review your roles and responsibilities during emergency as part of the Safety and Security team. RLs and SCs need to coordinate beforehand how to divide assignment of contacting PCVs in case of test, emergency. RLs and SCs need to communicate with each other when they will be out of range or on vacation, etc. This information needs to be communicated to the SSC-Maria Elena.. RLs and SCs must carry Updated Site Locator Forms (including cellphones,public phones or ways to contact each PCV in their region) in case of an emergency. *Suggestions: RLs, SCs to carry consolidated information in their wallets Have time/money available on your cell phone in case of an emergency or test 11. Use all the resources available during an emergency *Suggestions: Call and leave a message in all the hotels where PCVs usually stay. 14. RL and SC continue attempting contact using other methods on the PCV’s Site Locator Form. 15. RL and SC leave a concise message asking the PCV to contact you or another PCV in your region. foto por Norma H. 16. RL and SC must communicate back with SSCMaria Elena to report status of PCVs during an emergency or incident. 17. If RL and SC DO NOT reach a PCV within 24 hrs, you must visit the PCV. SAFETY AND SECURITY COORDINATOR SCHEDULE December 11 thru January 10, 2006 January 11, 2006 BACK TO OFFICE VA C AT I O N IAP SAFETY AND SECURITY HOLIDAYS REMINDER (by Dan Baker IAP Safety & Security Desk Officer) Radio messages in all provinces as soon as the test/emergency begins. 1. Stick together! There’s safety in numbers; don’t travel alone and don’t walk alone in unfamiliar areas, especially at night. 12. In Darien area, many volunteers need to be contacted/found directly in their sites. Determine which PCVs are closest together so that they can act as a cluster and inform each other, and also can work together to confirm. 2. Stay alert! Be aware of your surroundings and know where you can get help if you need it. Be on the lookout for suspicious persons, especially people following you or paying too much attention to what you’re doing. 13. RL and SC MUST CONFIRM OR CONTACT PCV to let them know about the situation. 18 3. Stay in control! Drinking is okay but drinking too much can be a problem. Too much alcohol can “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 impair your judgment and that can get you into bad situations. 4. Trust your instincts! It’s okay to be a little paranoid. If something “just doesn’t feel right”, don’t do it! Listen to that little voice in the back of your head. Don’t blindly trust someone if you really don’t know them. 5. Don’t put all your eggs in one basket! Keep your money, passport, tickets and other important things close to you at all times but not all in one place. Spread them out over several pockets and use security devices such at “leg safes”, hidden money pouches or tricks like pinning your pockets together. 6. Keep a low foto por Krista K. profile! If you’re in a tourist area, everyone is going to assume you’re a tourist too. Don’t flash your money around, leave the jewelry at home and keep expensive cameras and other gear out of sight. Go into a bathroom or other secluded (but relatively secure) place to transfer money to or from your money pouch. Act like you know where you’re going and what you’re doing. Be mindful of how others might perceive you and your actions. 7. Be prepared! Expect the worst and hope for the best. Because you never know what’s going to happen, you need to be ready for anything. Carry extras of the things you can’t do without, like eyeglasses and medications. (It’s a good idea to have a copy of the prescription not only in case you need a refill, but also because some countries have restrictions on the types of medications that can be brought in.) Make copies of your passport, visa, shot record and other important documents and keep the copies separate from the originals. 8. Carry with you a list of important phone numbers including your Peace Corps office, Duty Officer La Vaina and the office in the countries you’ll be visiting, along with the numbers for the U.S Embassies in those countries. It’s also a good idea to carry numbers for your family or other useful contacts in America. Someone may have to make an important call on your behalf. Keep a record of credit card numbers and the phone numbers for your credit card companies, just in case the cards are lost or stolen. 9. Know your rights! If you are arrested or detained by the police, IMMEDIATELY ask to speak with a representative from the U.S. Embassy or Consulate. Under the provisions of Article 36 of the Vienna Convention on Consular Relations of 2 local 1963 , authorities are required to notify the U.S. government without delay that you are in custody, but this doesn’t always happen until you ask (or demand). This is NOT a “get out of jail free card”; this only means that the embassy is told where you are and why you’re being held. Usually they will send a consular officer who can assist with notifications and help get the legal process started. 10. Do Your Research Beforehand Travelers should try to learn as much as they can about the situation in the places they plan to visit and then be sure to take steps to reduce their vulnerability. It’s also a good idea to find out what types of scams the local criminals like to use. Being aware and wary could save you some money and lots of hassle. It is important to take into account the laws, customs and culture of the place you’ll be visiting. The State Department’s Consular Information Sheet can give you guidance on what local laws may be different from in the U.S. (For instance, in some countries it’s illegal to photograph government buildings.) Travel websites and books, such as Lonely Planet, Bradt and Rough Guides offer lots of good information. [email protected] 19 La Vaina NATIONAL S&S COORDINATOR María Elena Ortiz–Peace Corps Office 6-671-2552 / 317-0038 x115 BOCAS DEL TORO AND COMARCA NGABE Jessie Frazier (RL) 6-576-1218 Sarah Kreisman (New SC) 6-576-1237 Sasha Rao (SC) 6-622-1884 CHIRIQUI Jordan Reeves (New RL) 6-521-5089 Bridget Olson (New SC) 6-591-8097 COMARCA NGABE-BUGLE (CHIRIQUI AREA) Laura Squire (RL) 6-565-8608 Michael Chapuran (SC) 6-697-4790 VERAGUAS AND COMARCA NGABE Sarah Lewis/John Sturm (New RLs) 6-521-5088 Thoman Kuhn (New SC) 6-521-5083 / 954-0748 COCLE/PANAMA OESTE Megan March (New RL) 6-519-2371 Tracy Furman (SC) 6-519-2372 20 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 VAC Attack Escott Overdyke Seeing as you’re now reading this article, I assume you’re sneaking a peek during your regional meeting and have flipped immediately to the VAC update. While I can’t condone this lawless behaviour, I certainly do understand your interest in Volunteer Affairs and Concerns. Or is it Volunteer Action Committee, or Volunteer Advisory Council? It certainly seems as though the “V” is the only widely agreed upon letter in our moniker. So we’re going to clear the confusion right now, lest you continue to lose sleep over this: it’s the Volunteer Advisory Council. We boast a board of four, one representative from every region (every region!). Every three months we meet quarterly to discuss your concerns (and those of the office), review all that’s going on in the different regions, award a couple small money grants (though it looks like we may award up to six per meeting in the future!), take an informal vote on the office staff member we most appreciate that quarter (staff appreciation award), and generally just bask in the goodness that is Penonome (location of all previous meetings). All that to say, welcome to VAC’s latest quarterly La Vaina instalment. First, regional updates. As always, the work of roughly 120 volunteers taken altogether can be quite overwhelming. Like staring at the sun. Something you shouldn’t do. Ever. But notable efforts include Eco-giras in Cocle (Peter Musser as Captain Planet), VAST projects in Veraguas, Ambassador involvement in Darien, upcoming youth seminars all over the place, and finally – as-well-as perhaps the most blinding – the continued excellence of all Comarca Ngäbe/Bugle volunteers. (Don’t you let Sturm edit that; he’s not Comarca, he doesn’t know.) Super Small Project Assistance is our way-too-wordy system of small money donations. VAC gives two (up to $60 each) and WID/GAD gives two (also up to $60 each) at every meeting but we’ll probably be offering many more the next time around. Our most recent recipients include Nicole Richardson for wormcultivating materials, foto por Sara L. Patricia Greenberg for a composting latrine, Katie Skaar for APLAFA visits, and Caitlin Morvidelli for kids camp materials. And finally we addressed some basic office issues including snack/soda machines and a pay phone available to volunteers. Look for the vending machines in the kitchen some time soon; pay phone issues are still being worked out. All those interested in developing relationships with embassy workers (and probable homestays in the city) should contact Patricia Greenberg ([email protected]) who will walk you through the process. Ultimamente, congrats to our new leader in arms, VAC president Zach Kippenbrock. We on the directiva are still fairly certain VP Chris Meyer has every intent of staging a violent coup de etat one day and are maintaining a constant state of heightened alert – that’s an orange on the color scale. Congrats Zach, but consider yourself warned. Next meeting? All Volunteer Conference. [email protected] 21 La Vaina WID / GAD Update Kari Kelly Brand New Directiva! On a cloudy, rainy day in Panama City, WID/GAD President Julia Downs, Vice-President John Nangle and Super Secretary Katie Skaar stepped down and allowed a new generation of PCV’s a chance to try to spread peace, love and an understanding of gender roles among HCN’s and volunteers. The new directiva emerged, with four 54ers and one 55er at the helm of one of the best-kept secrets among PCV organizations. Allow me to introduce your present WID/GAD directiva: $20, for an APLAFA visit to her site. The awards are up to $60 each and we have more money, so send in those proposals to your local VAC representative and they will be awarded at the next VAC meeting! foto por Norma H. Kristen Arbuckle, Education Coordinator, is located in Chami (Comarca Ngäbe Bugle). Kari Kelly, Secretary, lives in La Fragua (Veraguas). Rebecca Schram, Co-President, resides in Kankintu (Comarca Ngäbe Bugle). Shanna Scott, Treasurer, has a house in Chica (Panama Este). Trisha Wood, Co-President, makes her home in Buenos Aires (Comarca Ngäbe Bugle). If you see any of these lovely ladies out and about, please feel free to ask any questions you may have about WID/ GAD, the youth conference, or life in general. IDEMI Youth Conference (WID/GAD) After much gnashing of teeth and tearing-out of hair, the Youth Conference has been combined, from two conferences to one, scheduled for Penonome, February 13-17th at the Muchachas Gias complex. The theme for the conference is: “Si a la vida, no al SIDA”. Youths between the ages of 14-17 have been nominated by volunteers to participate in five jam-packed days of fun, which will include sessions on self-esteem, decisionmaking, goal-setting, and effective communication, in order to obtain the ability to give charlas within their communities on these subjects in respect to VIH/SIDA. Those volunteers who nominated kids and who also volunteered to help with the charlas/counseling positions will receive fancy, personalized emails with all the information ASAP. And the Award Goes To During the December VAC meeting, the WID/GAD SSPA grants were awarded to Caitlin Morvidelli, $60, for materials for a youth camp/activity and to Katie Skaar, 22 foto por Norma H. WID/GAD Concurso In the last La Vaina, a concurso for jovenes was announced in which the winner would receive a bag of school supplies. Due to the directiva change and planning for the Youth Conference, the awards will be decided during the February directiva meeting. The winner’s volunteer will be contacted by the end of February. AVC Fun WID/GAD will be hosting a book club discussion at AVC, on the book In the Land of God and Men: A Latin Woman’s Journey by Silvana Paternostro. Be on the lookout for an email announcing the arrival of the book(s) in the fabulously revamped office lounge. WID/GAD will also have a general meeting during this time, so don’t miss it, I promise it will be the most fun you’ll have while not running naked down the beach. (Not that any of us do that.) When you teach your children, you teach your children’s children. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina Regional Leader Update and Job Openings Brought to You by Greg Branch If your actions inspire others to dream more, learn more, do more and become more, you are a leader. -John Quincy Adams started at the office at 9:00 am. Check into the Hotel California and we cover the three nights. If you’d like to foto por Brian and Nicole Never doubt that a small, group of thoughtful, committed citizens can change the world. Indeed, it is the only thing that ever has. -Margaret Mead Leaders aren’t born they are made. And they are made just like anything else, through hard work. And that’s the price we’ll have to pay to achieve that goal, or any goal. -Vince Lombardi The leaders who work most effectively, it seems to me, never say “I.” And that’s not because they have trained themselves not to say “I.” They don’t think “I.” They think “we”; they think “team.” They understand their job to be to make the team function. They accept responsibility and don’t sidestep it, but “we” gets the credit … . This is what creates trust, what enables you to get the task done. -Peter Drucker foto por Norma H spend one more day Peace Corps is having its open house for all our partners on the 20th. So feel free to stick around and meet national Partners and neighbors in the Cuidad de Saber. Hope you are enjoying the holidays!! JOB OPENINGS As the year flips another number, 2006 brings change, the ever-present constant in this world. As such, I am posting the Regional Leaderships that are opening this upcoming year. Extending your service to take on more responsibility within the Peace Corps Panama program is great life experience, a tremendous resume builder, personally rewarding, and can be a lot of fun! If you are interested please send your letter of intent to Greg Branch at [email protected] or Nick Metes at [email protected] Pues, here is what we are looking at: Deadline for letter of intent: January 15 2006 Bocas: Jessie Frazier COS March 15 2006 Chiriqui: Jordon Reeves COS May 19 2006 Azuero: John Nagle COS May 15 2006 Panama Este/Darien: Chris Meyer COS April 24 2006 Comarca Ngobe Bugle: Laura Squire COS April 27 2006 Hi RLs!! Just a quick note here to say hi here and thank you for all your hard work during 2005. We are kicking off the new year with your regional meetings and then following up with your Regional Leader training and site development team meeting on January 18th and 19th. Please come in to the city on the 17th so we can get Deadline for letter of intent: June 15 2006 Cocle: Meegan March COS August 24 2006 Colon: Rebecca Fertzinger COS September 9 2006 Veraguas: Jon Strum and Sara Lewis COS Nov 2006 [email protected] 23 La Vaina Realidades Colores opacos invaden tu suerte Colores que tornan de vivo a gris. Caminas las calles hundidas, inertes Captando horrores en este país. Miradas que siguen de cerca tu paso En ellas descubres el dolor de los años. Rostros poblados por el tiempo y su caso Dirigiendo caminos a lugares extraños. Cuerpos que alguna vez eran fuerte Se ven desgastados por el hambre ó trabajo. Mentes con vivos retratos de muerte Saturadas con lo que la vida les trajo. Todo a tu paso esta viejo y cansado Lo notas igual en los edificios que vez. Crees salir de un sueño atormentado Al notar que tu vida es al revés. América Continente de América Inmenso en tierra Riquezas escondes por todo tu cuerpo y corazón. Madre América En tu rebaso acunas La pobreza paulatina que tus hijos crearon. Padre América Con tu machete enseñas El sudor del trabajo que tus hermanos mataron. Hijo América Que con tu mente diste La idea del perjuicio que ahora acosa a tus primos. Hija América tu espalda marca La muerte, el hambre, la tristeza y sus caminos. Privilegiada América En tus bolsillos llevas La suerte, vida y esperanza de tus inquilinos. —Norma Hernandez 24 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 El Pobre Francisco de Las Flores de Arenas de Mariato de Veraguas I De mi vida no me quejo para comer alcanzado y no soy adinerado pero tampoco pendejo yo ha tenido mis reflejo por eso es que les digo soy rico de mucho amigo que tiene las cualidade millonarios de amistade y libre de los castigo II Yo no ha tenido dinero para sentirme orgulloso vivo con buen reposo y como de lo que quiero y como yo soy sincero hago lo que podemos es que así lo comprendemos sin el oro y el cobre pero le dijo que el pobre sin plata también valemos III Yo tengo arroz y maíz frijoles, ñame y otoy pero yo le digo hoy eso me hace feliz una cría de codorniz tal vez un par de gallinas pero a mí si me fascina que vallan a mi ranchito aunque yo sea pobrecito pero tengo disciplina IV Si yo duermo en una hamaca pero sin preocupación que no ha llegado el camión que iba lleno de vaca Mi mente más se destaca y siempre yo pienso a diario yo no tengo un adversario compitiendo la riqueza ni el dolor de cabeza foto por Sara L. (Sara Lewis lives in Francisco’s site). [email protected] 25 La Vaina World AIDS Day Allison Musser I didn’t even realize how uncomfortable I had become sitting on the rough wooden bench for over forty minutes; my surroundings were much too intriguing for me to pay attention to such minor annoyances. The canaza walls and penca roof were not totally unlike other structures I had been in recently, so I imagine it was the vastness of the place, along with the feeling of sanctity that made it so captivating. Directly in front of me were two elders sitting in hammocks singing in Tulegaya. Their message was one of cultural tradition, a lesson for the women of the community who gather every Wednesday morning in this meeting place. Since the words being chanted meant nothing to me I paid little attention to the men but rather studied the audience. I was struck by the distinct and intricate details in each of the molas that the women wore, yet I sensed a more profound unity that this dress represented. I had always heard volunteers talk about La Casa de Congreso but actually taking part in a meeting in the Congreso house had me feeling as if I had been plopped into a Discovery Channel cultural adventure. I would have been more than content to spend my four days in Kuna Yala just soaking up the energy and unique vibe from this society so rich and different from anything I had ever experienced, but there was additional important work to be done. I had come to Ustupu to carry out a World AIDS day event with a foundation of Kuna youth, UNAIDS and the UN Population fund. activities there were many times when I had to take deep breaths in order to control my emotions. There are few people in Kuna Yala who do not know someone who is HIV positive or who has already died of AIDS. Seeing members of the community, most of whom have been personally touched by the disease in some way, cross cultural taboos in order to educate themselves so they can overcome an epidemic that threatens their future was the most profound and encouraging experience I have had as a Peace Corps volunteer. Partaking in an event that empowers people to make choices to live a healthier life is what I feel is my most important work as a Peace Corps volunteer. My experience in Kuna Yala allowed me to join a band of individuals all working for the same goal. I was encouraged by seeing many rally around us enthusiastically receiving our message, I am hopeful that there were many more seeds planted that day and that time will show the fruits of our united efforts. Over the past century the Kuna have had to overcome several challenges in order to survive and maintain their cherished way of life. Today, however, HIV/AIDS is a present and significant threat to the survival of the Kuna people and culture. The rate of HIV/AIDS is spreading rapidly among the densely populated Kuna communities. Because of the fact that the Kuna are a transient group, with over half of the Kuna population living in the city for extended periods of time and many traveling back and forth to the Comarca, they are marked as an “at risk” population. With the objective of “Breaking the Silence” of HIV/AIDS in Kuna Yala, we arrived and realized a HIV/AIDS jamboree to commemorate World AIDS day in Kuna Yala’s largest and most affected community, Ustupu. When the actual day of the event arrived I was able to fall into the role of observer. As I watched the progression of the day’s 26 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina Living in Perfect Harmony With Arrieras Jason Cochran It has happened to any one of you out there. You get your garden or vivero perfectly chicken proofed, the plants have germinated, and things are starting to look pretty positive for the plants you have planted that will give you credibility as an ag-educator in your community. As you are about to throw out your shoulder from patting yourself on the back, they attack. They come in hoards, strip all of the vegetation and leave you with vulnerable looking sticks in your back yard. Yes, your project has been devastated by our friendly neighborhood leaf-cutter ants. This Vaina’s SAS tech session will explore these pests and offer up some possible solutions to controlling these meticulous critters. Background: Members of the atta family, Leaf Cutters are considered by some to be the first actual “farmers” of the new world. While they are a multi-billion dollar pest to the two-legged foto por Nicole R. new world, some cultures revere their farmers of the hard-working habits. The Kuna believe the ants have medicinal purposes and can treat “laziness” by being placed on the body and being allowed to bite—the bites giving the Kuna power to be a hard worker. But I digress. Back to the six-legged farmers. The vegetation that the leaf cutter ants harvest is collected and used to grow fungus that the ants harvest for consumption. This relationship between the fungus and the ant is considered a mutual relationship because ants provide the fungus food for growth and the fungus in turn provides the ants with food. Interestingly enough, the food that the fungus produces for the ants is only available if the ants are pruning or eating the food, so if the ants do not maintain the garden, there will not be any food available to them. compost pile to establish a new one. The growth of the nest is slow in the first two-three years, and then explodes. As with most of the ant species, there are many types of ants with many types of duties from caring for the young to foraging for vegetation to defending the colony to taking care of the fungus garden. Leaf cutter ants have a wide range of vegetation that they collect for their fungus garden that depends on availability and the time of year. During the wet season, they will focus on green leaves while in the dry season they will harvest leaf matter, fruit parts, flowers, etc. This seems to be more based on availability as you may have seen at the rate that your dry season garden is ravaged. The leaf cutter ants will also prefer newer leaves for a wide range of reasons, one of them being that some older citric leaves have an Epiphylls or fungal growth that repels the ants. The ants also prefer to forage at night, the reason being that carpenter ants protect many of the trees that they forage during the day. All this being said, leaf cutter ants provide a valuable service to the rainforest. Their nests and collection of foto por Chris M. Like the majority of social insects, there is one queen who can live up to ten years, bearing millions of progeny. The queen is the largest in size and when future queens are ready to form their own nest, they grow wings and migrate to establish their own colony. You most likely have seen this happen shortly after the first rainfalls of the wet season in May-June. The migrating queen will carry with her a small patch of fungus from her home nest in order to start her fungus collection in her own colony. This is similar to us using a bit of dirt from an old [email protected] 27 La Vaina organic matter help to maintain the fertility of the soil. In Barro Colorado Island, STRI scientists are conducting experiments to test this function. In Kuna Yala, the ant compost is used as a fertilizer to their crops. So while they may seem to be a pest, they seem to provide the service of keeping the forest abonar’d. The dirt their nests could even be a valuable abono for your own garden. You would have to treat this dirt first by laying it out in the sun, pouring boiling water through it or sealing it off in a cubo in order to kill off fungi that could hurt your plants. This too is a common practice by the Kuna. Suggestions for protecting your crops against leaf cutter ants: There are several ways to minimize leaf cutter ant damage, but few have been consistently proven foto por Caleb M/ to work. Some of these will be discussed. Of course there are non-organic solutions such as using hormitox, pouring boiling water down their nests, using kerosine or a M-80 firecracker to blow up the nest. In the tradition of our efforts to focus on non-toxic organic solutions, only those will be discussed. Nevertheless, although using the inorganic deterrents can work, they really are not 100% effective, so you are just hurting the environment and not getting rid of the ants anyway…. 1) Location: It seems that the ants are opportunistic foragers, that is that they have their preferences, but will settle for the next best thing if nothing else is available. That next best thing is your garden. This explains why, in my experience, heavily deforested areas have big issues with leaf-cutter ants. To overcome this, perhaps placing your garden in an area with high bio-diversity could minimize the damage they will cause. This seems to be a popular solution. You will not eliminate the ants, but you can reduce the damage they cause. 2) Mulch: It has been observed that the ants would not go after plants surrounded by heavy leaf or organic litter. 28 So by increasing the amount of mulch around your plants you can deter to the ants from attacking your garden. 3) Repellent: Essential oils are also thought to be a deterrent, so making a repellent using garlic or lemon grass could help. This has not been widely tested, so experiment with it and get back to us. 4) Canavalia: The fungus nests are unable to process protein or nitrogen, so eventually the fungus will die off from having high quantities of unprocessable highnitrogen or protein leaves in the nest. Of course, worker ants will eventually remove these leaves, but it could slow down the nest growth somewhat. It has also been observed that the leaves of canavalia will produce a fungus that kills the fungus the ants feed upon. This takes some time, (2-3 weeks) but I have seen it work. With their food supply destroyed, the ants will die or move on to other areas. 5) Marigolds, or flor de muerto: This plants emits a chemical that has been reported to repel the leaf cutter ants from the area, so intercropping this plant with your garden may could lower leaf cutter ant damage. 6) Natural predators: The leaf cutters have few predators, but one is the bullet ant. It is doubtful that they can curb their population, however. So hold off on collecting thousands of bullet ants to defend your garden. If you want to do this, go crazy, but be careful of their painful sting (SAFETY, SAFETY, SAFETY). There is also a parasitic fungus, called Escovopsis mold that will attack the ants fungus and poison it in a matter of days. This mold is only found in the leaf cutter ants fungal garden. As the fungal garden is specially evolved (considered to be clone as remember the ants take starter gardens with them from their nests, so genetically all “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 foto por Allison B. La Vaina unproven. You can change that. Play around with these techniques, experiment and get back to us on how they turned out. Good luck and I hope you will have healthy gardens and such as a result of this article. Information from this article was gathered through a permaculture e-discussion group I belong to, Mr. Dave Dickerson, a consultant on all matters agriculture and development, as well as the following websites: fungual gardens are damn near identical, so the mold too is genetically identical from nest to nest) so too is the mold. If the mold attacks the garden all is not lost as the ants actually carry on their body a bacterium that is a powerful antibiotic (used by many drug labs to develop numerous of antibiotics useful to humans) in order to control the fungus. Their use of this fungus is carefully controlled to the point that the Ecovopsis has not developed a tolerance to this antibiotic. Amazingly, not only are these ants adept at farming, but they have also figured out how to use antibiotics wisely so as not to create resistance! 7) Enemy territory: Ants are very territorial, and possibly littering the ants nest with dirt from another nest will send them into attack mode. This will create a warlike situation can result in a move to another area, or a massive battle with heavy causalities and you with a protected garden. Unfortunately, these ants are poorly studied (master’s project anyone?), so all of these techniques are fairly foto por Sara L. www.thewildones.org/Animals/atta.html www.antcolony.org/leafcutter/leafcuttermain.htm www.floresflowers.com/opera/Atta.html www.qeced.net/gensci/nyt/Ecology.htm#19990803 www.referaty.sk/?referat=30 www.iht.com/articles/85036.html [email protected] 29 La Vaina The Gilmore Girls and Me Anonymous Well, I recently out-ed myself for the first time. I don’t know if the fourfor-two happy hour had something to do with it, or if I intuited a sympathetic audience, but I said it: I watch the Gilmore Girls. Late at night, when I’m back in my site, I wonder what Rory will do when she’s done at Yale; if the coffee shop guy will ever take off that damn hat; and if the show—whose reruns have become such a fixture in my life now—was in fact canceled even before I ever stepped foot in Panama. What nobody knows is that I pick my hotels based on access to cable, and that I fumble with the remote when I hear knocks at my hotel door in fear of being caught in the act of not only watching Gilmore Girls, but liking it. A few years ago, I ran into a Rutger’s Media Studies professor who obsessed on the correlation between television watching and human physiology. Not surprisingly, he and his colleagues have confirmed—by measuring alpha brain-wave productivity among other scientific identifiers I don’t quite understand—that television watchers overall feel more relaxed and passive, than people engaged in other activities, like reading, for instance. While not a newsbreaking conclusion, he has gone on to make a career out of exploring television addiction and has examined other compulsive tendencies induced by this peculiar medium. For all the science behind the tendency of human eyes to gravitate towards an illuminated television screen, it doesn’t explain why mine, in Panama, are glued to Gilmore Girls. Had I been from a comatose New England town or was I an eleven year old girl, I could make the leap. Maybe. Instead, I’m left alone at night with a new question, following the usual “How do I reconcile my own contributions to the world’s injustices with my do-gooder Peace Corps stint? Does anything I’m doing here in Panama really matter…blah, blah, blah?” This new question is “Come on! The Gilmore Girls?” The heart and soul of this question is, of course, not about Rory, Lauralie, or me, but instead about the power societal forces have on our habits and practices. And how our behavior, beyond what we know is good for us or good for the world, changes when our realities do. It doesn’t matter why I do it. What matters is that I go against everything I intellectually know is good and just and right in the world and go ahead and 30 do it anyway. Despite the books and magazines and conversations waiting in the wings, the exploring and connecting and writing and plain old relaxing, ruminating, or constructing that I could be doing, I’m watching garbage instead, each and every time I go to the City. And I don’t think I’m alone. It makes me think about the community drunks, kid beating parents, and my wildly intelligent neighbor, who can barely read but who, if he applied himself to learn a few basic principles (that I could teach him if he would only let me!), could rule the world, or at least his corner of it, and how many of them too (no, of course not all), know that foto por Wakan what they are doing isn’t right, it isn’t productive, it isn’t going to get them where they want to be. I’m not making justifications for child beating or for watching the WB, but let’s just say, I now understand a component of it. Not everyone has the luxury of enjoying the 11th rung of the human necessities ladder, where sit non-fat-double-pump-soylattes; some are just trying to make it through the day. Now I’m not trying to drum up sympathy for destructive behavior that will catapult no one out of oppression, whether it be the ignorant, poverty-based version some of us see in or sites, or the ignorance of the corporate/consumer-hold over some people back home. What I am trying to drum up is a dialogue about how a volunteer can take it to the next step, once community members intellectually know that behavior X is harmful and that behavior Y is the road to salvation. Or, how, on God’s green earth, can I get the Panamanian version of myself to trade in an hour of the forced, trying way to hard to be witty (and sadly failing), girly banter of Gilmore Girls for an entire cycle of the BBC’s World Business Report? Don’t be mad after reading this far, but I don’t have an answer. The point of this exercise is to explore, just a bit, the barriers we volunteers face in our work by picking up a mirror and seeing a link between some of the counter-productive behaviors in our communities and our Girlmore-Girl-watching own. In doing so we may be able to stir the pot of compassion and patience a bit—not so we soften our approach or determination to facilitate change, but so we don’t get so upset by the behavior of our neighbors that we give up completely. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina Critter Corner Bryan Richardson I have heard many horror stories since my arrival in Panama about “campo surgeries”. The all too common story about how someone’s dog was neutered without anesthesia or any kind of pain medication, which ends up becoming infected and the dog becomes very ill or dies. The thought among many campesinos may be that dogs are not worth the money or trouble or that they do not feel pain like we do. I assure you that is not true. Dogs feel pain and as man’s best friend they certainly deserve foto por Dave F. Furthermore, if she did have puppies would you be able to find good homes for all the puppies? As Peace Corps Volunteers part of our job is to share our culture and a part of that includes sharing our culture’s values toward animals. Gandhi said, “The greatness of a nation and its moral progress can be judged by the way its animals are treated”. It is true that as volunteers we do not have a lot of money, that our allowance does not include the cost of spaying or neutering our cats and dogs. But as pet owners it is our responsibility to take good care of our pets and to lead by example. Living in a developing nation, many campesinos may not have the funds either, but it is worth the price for those who can do it. Some people do not realize the importance of a licensed veterinarian’s expertise or the need for anesthesia. If someone takes a machete to your dog’s testicles without any tranquilizers or anesthesia, just think how that might feel. As an animal lover and a Veterinary Technician I urge everyone to please lead by example, people will see the difference. Our dog was the smallest, and màs fea puppy in her litter and now she is almost twice the size of the only other survivor. People are able to see that it is because someone takes care of her. foto por Marcia P. to have proper and humane medical attention. Spaying or neutering your pet is very important for the health of your little friend. There is an increased risk of cancers and prostate problems in non-neutered pets. Also a male can develop habits such as urinating to mark its territory and chasing females in heat, which can lead to sexually transmitted diseases like genital warts. A female can also get STDs, and there is the problem of keeping the males away when she is in heat. A female also risks a serious uterine infection every time she comes into heat. [email protected] 31 La Vaina Deep Thoughts on Farming Rice Sara Lewis Not long ago I decided to pick up a little intra-curricular reading material to balance out all the classical literature that’s been occupying my free time. I got a hold of a book by Masanobu Fukuoka called THE NATURAL WAY OF FARMING: The Theory and Practice of Green Philosophy. I was familiar with some of his other works and theories on no-till agriculture and curious to learn more. Mr. Fukuoka has a lot of interesting things to say about “natural farming”, especially in regards to rice. For those that have worked with rice, be it large plantation or small rice tanks, I think you may find the following charts to be useful. important questions as “Where does tasty rice gone?” with this figure but, more importantly, shows that “…the chances that a tasty variety of rice will be grown, properly processed, and cooked skillfully to give rice of outstanding taste is not more than one in a thousand.” He continues by explaining that this means that “…even with the best of luck, someone may encounter truly tasty rice perhaps once in every two to three years. And if that person does not happen to be very hungry at the time, all will have been for naught.” Phew. I think we can all breathe a sigh of relief. The odds were foto por Shana S. against us from the beginning. We’d a l l have to extend at least a year to have any real chance of making “tasty rice”. I know I did. I especially liked Fig. 5.2 from Chapter 5: The Road Man Must Follow. All this time I was feeling like a failure every time my rice came out burned and stuck to the sides of the paila, too salty, not salty enough or the dreaded aguachao. Here I come to discover that good tasting rice is really just a “figment of the imagination”. Fukuoka not only addresses such 32 For more information on this and related subjects look for Masanobu Fukuoka’s THE NATURAL WAY OF FARMING: The Theory and Practice of Green Philosophy in your local book exchange or library. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 Earn More Than ZERO Jessica Samples If you have not already signed the Peace Corps Authorization for Purchase of U.S. Savings Bonds By Volunteer form and handed it to Viekla Simmons, Thomas Kuhn thinks you are incredibly lame. And so do I. Each month of your service in Panama you are in fact earning a portion of your re-adjustment allowance, 1/3 of which you will get in the form of a check at COS, cashable in Panama. The rest is eventually sent in check (and savings bonds if you fill out this form) to your house after COS. You have the option, right now, to divert $50 or $100 of each month’s re-adjustment allowance to buy the bonds (which Washington does for you if you fill out this form). The interest won’t push you into the next tax bracket—you’d do well if you went away with $50 or $75 in interest after service—but if we learn anything in Panama, it’s how useful $50 or $75 actually can be. Be advised that if you take advantage of this bond offer, it may affect the amount of cash that will be available to foto por Jessica S.. por JessicaatS.COS. The “1/3” you get up front may youfoto in Panama be calculated from the amount of cash sitting in your readjustment cash account and not include the bonds you have purchased. But in the end, there will be no losses, only room for interest growth. These bonds take twenty years to mature, although they can continue to gain interest for thirty. If you cash them earlier than the twenty years, the penalty is the loss of the last three months of interest. But remember, when dealing with U.S. Savings Bonds, there are never actual losses; you will never receive less than you gave in the purchase. For more info see www.publicdebt.treas.gov. There are no city or state taxes imposed on the interest accrued with bonds. Federal taxes must be paid on the interest only when the bonds are cashed. At this issues printing, EE bonds were at 3.2%, and the II bonds are 6.73%. Both can be redeemed at any full service bank in the U.S. foto por Mark S.. [Editor’s Note: The author of this article studied Italian and Government in college and has absolutely no background or training or certification for giving [email protected] 33 La Vaina Financial Planning Chris Meyer I have found most of my comrades in arms here in Panama to be intelligent. But in the area of money, few seem to have it together. Not that I have a pile of money in my Banco Nacional account (my arch-enemy in this country for their horrible, horrible customer service). In fact I do a good job of cleaning it out each month, but my finances back in the states are in order. At a young age, foto por Trisha W. I was forced by my father to learn about personal finance so as not to repeat the numerous mistakes he made; had his business savvy been better developed at a young age, the Meyer family name would be synonymous with wealth at this point in time. I ended up liking the subject and eventually majored in it. I even produced a seminar for my friends seeking useless liberal arts degrees to give them the basics so that later in life they might be able to eat more than peanut butter and Top Ramen, washed down with boxed White Zinfandel. The US will go through the same thing Panama went through regarding their social security/pension system, so heed my advice and never count on the government for your pension. In 20 years, when there are way too many old people (i.e. you and your friends…), the system will go bankrupt and everything you might have contributed will be lost. It’s always best to take care of yourself and not rely on the government. (This may sound a bit ironic given our current situation.) Recent Arrivals: If you have school loans and haven’t consolidated them, DO IT NOW! The typical student loan readjusts its rate every six-months, but when you consolidate it automatically locks in the rate for the life of the loan. Rates are rising and will be rising, so if you can lock it in before the end of the year, great. Next year, your rate will be a bit higher, but you will evade future rate increases. And rates are bound to increase as the government raises them to combat inflation. All loans are deferrable during your service. This means you don’t have to pay, but the interest will continue to accumulate. I am currently paying $100/month on my loan through a deduction from my readjustment allowance, so I am not accumulating interest and the balance of the loan is actually decreasing. Your readjustment allowance doesn’t earn anything (unless you chose to invest in savings bonds), so you might as well use it to pay down any student loans. original artwork by Andrew P. 34 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” Roth IRAs (no not the Irish Republican Army), but a beautiful thing the January - March 2006 foto por Trisha W. La Vaina I managed to delay a couple of months, but will now have to pay some kind of penalty, like 1% per month. government developed about 6-7 years ago to encourage savings. Basically, it acts like a savings account to which you can contribute a certain amount of money each year. When you retire, you can withdraw this money without paying taxes, yeehaaww. Currently, anytime you make money (buy low, sell high), the tax man takes a cut, but anything you transact in your Roth IRA the tax man can’t touch now, or in the future. Just to confuse you some with a bit of history, before the Roth IRA, there was the plain IRA, which let you save without paying yearly taxes on the interest (as you would have to do with a savings account), but when you went to cash out, you had to pay the taxes. Get a “Roth” as they are referred to now if you don’t have one. You can open one online with a couple of hundred dollars through a number of different companies like Fidelity (suggested), a large national bank like Citi, or other brokerage companies like Charles Schwab, Merril Lynch, Smith Barney, etc… Now what to purchase with your money is a whole other article. [Editor’s note: Putting your money in a “Roth” and then purchasing nothing with it would be like filling a saco with hundreds and stashing it in the shed with your canned tuna and guns.] One nice thing about only earning $2,700/year is that you have room to cash in on some capital gains because your first $8-9,000 of total income (I can’t remember the exact amount), or earned income plus investment income, is tax free. This means that you can now sell the Walt Disney or Microsoft stock your grandpa gave you when you were a wee lad, which is now worth a couple G’s, or more, and maybe not pay too many taxes. Usually, Uncle Sam takes a cut, but we are only earning a third of our allowed tax-free income. You should try to take advantage of the $6,000+/- capital gain you can incur without paying the “man”. For example, if you were at the bottom tax bracket (15%) and had to pay capital gains taxes on the $6,000 gain you made from selling Disney, you would have to pay Uncle Sam $900, money better spent on buying me a beer for this advice. If you are enamored with the stock, sell it, move the proceeds to your Roth IRA, and buy the stock anew. You will pay some transaction fees, but in the long run you will save a bundle in taxes. It’s all about taxes. A good friend here let me peek at his portfolio. He still had some technology stock that he “forgot” to sell during the bubble of the late-nineties early-2000’s. “Forgot” now equals the difference between having the flow to quaff something less prone to give a hangover than my beloved, boxed Clos. Luckily, that loser tech stock still holds some value in its ability to lower a tax burden. Justly, Uncle Sam lets you deduct any losses (bought high, sold low) from the sale of a stock against any investment income. So, unless you think that stock is going to go down any further (it has probably stabilized) don’t sell it and hold it for the future to counter a gain. For example, foto por Kari K. One good thing Bush has done is to raise the amount you can put in an IRA each year. The limit used to be $2,000/ year, back in the day, but now it is up to $4,000. The kicker for us though, is that you can only invest up to the amount of “earned income” for the year, which for us PCVs, is $2,700 and some change. “Earned income” doesn’t include investment income, so dividends or capital gains you might have earned during the year, won’t count in the total. If you already made your contribution, when you file your taxes you will have to withdraw the difference and pay a small fine. I got nicked on this last year when the ceiling was $3,000 and had to withdraw $300, which [email protected] 35 La Vaina next year when I actually earn money (that is if the Ngäbe charms I’ve strung up around my house do the trick), I should have to pay taxes on a $10,000 capital gain (I put up a lot of charms.) from selling x-stock. With one of the loser stocks in my portfolio, I could sell it at a loss of $5,000 and only pay taxes on $5,000 (10 gain – 5 loss = 5 taxable). The rules have changed recently and if you are holding a loser and sell it, you can carry the gain into future years, up to three years (I think). Another quick thing, if you don’t have a US checking and credit card account, get one. You can arrange them online and have the cards sent to your parent’s house or who ever is collecting your mail. I have mine with the same bank which makes paying the credit card easy. My bank pays the ATM fees too, which can be up to $2 a pop here in Panama. Have the cards sent to Panama overnight to the office when you will be passing through. If you aren’t able to activate them in a timely manner, you run the chance that they won’t activate because of time limitations. Having these accounts makes life easier by letting your parents or anybody else get money to you quickly without having to send it to Panama (think Christmas and birthday money) and allows you to have a credit card (true, a bit more difficult to use here than in the US) and other ATM card for emergencies or when Banco Nacional’s ATMs aren’t working, which is way too often (damn them). This will also help you to build your credit history; just don’t use them too often and pay off any charges right away. Okay, enough rambling. Since I don’t know the specifics anymore, just the general strategies, before you make any major changes, consult the family accountant, parents, or whoever helps you with your finances (my disclaimer, pues). If you catch me in the office (I am the epitome of the “office volunteer” now), ask me any question you might have and I will do my best to answer it or find the answer. I get some queer enjoyment out of it. Small things add up and starting early is important to take advantage of compounding (think rule of 72), so if you don’t do foto por Wakan anything now, at least when you return to the states, visit a financial consultant to get things in order so you won’t be welcoming me at Wal-Mart at age 65 because you didn’t plan appropriately. Tortilla de Guineo Por Lisa Andrusyszyn Here’s a lovely, simple little recipe for those of you with out much more than some leña and plenty of guineos. It’s a Panamanian version of pancakes that I picked up in the Darién. Ok, so I guesstimated on some of the ingredients, but just aim for a pancake batter-like consistency (so that it falls off the spoon smoothly). Enjoy! 500 gr. bag of flour A pinch of salt 2-3 Guineo (bien maduro) 1 cup of milk 1 egg (optional) ¼ bar of butter Optional variations: Add vanilla Add snickers, chopped up (mmmm…talk about a cultural exchange!) Mash the guineo up with a fork. Then mix all the ingredients together and add water until you get the pancake consistency. Pour spoonfuls of the mix on the frying pan and let each side fry until golden brown. Eat así or with syrup (if you can find it!). foto por Wakan 36 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina Volunteer Medical Advisory: A Literal Tale of Blue Balls Alan Foster Studies and scientific exploration are continuing to show that a vast realm of medical knowledge can be found in the hands of indigenous peoples throughout the earth, particularly in tropical areas and often obscured from the advances of western medicine. Unfortunately, loss of culture in our shared and shrinking world coincides with loss of tradition, including this knowledge of botany and the human body. One such example, that may yet find its way into the practices of western medicine, is the use of the jagua (haag-wah) seed by the Emberá and Wounaan peoples in Panama and Colombia. Of the many functions of jagua, perhaps foto por Chris M. most notable is the seed’s use as a body paint. Applied in various designs from the corners of the mouth down, and accompanied with beads and silver jewelry, it a generally associated with traditional festivals or special occasions. However, as confirmed by Doctor Lourdes, the paint is also accepted to have a valuable effect on the epidermis and can be used to treat a number of medical conditions. Possible uses include the treatment of acne and skin blemishes, protection from ultraviolet light, and reportedly, a repelling effect on nuisance insects such as mosquitoes. As with most medications, there are also inherent risks that result from ignorance or deliberate misuse. Although knowledge of these inherent risks is widespread among indigenous peoples, the danger is not necessarily intuitive, and accidents are often reported among youth or the occasional uninformed gringo. In the case of jagua, the danger lies in potential contact with sensitive areas of the skin, namely the ballsack. Yes, I so unfortunately learned this from personal experience. No, I was not intentionally painting my genitals. Yes, it became an extensive topic for conversation in my community. No, I haven’t suffered any evident permanent damage. A week’s rest, a little topical cream, and the infirmity they describe with the verb ‘rajarse’ has healed completely. [Editor ’s note: Don’t let the PC Medical Office staff trick you into getting a “ballsack exam”. They have seen this sort of thing before; just ask for the topical cream.] Well… I hope this factual and overly informative confession will save someone a hard lesson in cultural exploration. Cuidate. [email protected] 37 La Vaina Dichos Andrew Parrucci Here in the Darién, the gente frequently use dichos in their daily banter, and by golly so should you. Give these a try the next time you’re out pasearing; If they don’t get you beat up, their proper implementation will not only enhance your campo Castillano, but also amaze and delight your neighbors. You’ll thereby earn cultural brownie points and more than a few green plantains! foto por Nicole R. 1. ¡Aquí, entre bujo y capacho! Here, between the bujo and the capacho! (Used as a response to a greeting. The bujo sings a lovely tune, while the capacho’s song sounds like “jodido, jodido, jodido”.) 2. ¡Andando como los huevos de un verraco. Moving along like a pig’s balls. (Used to chastise somebody who is always late. In case you’ve never noticed, a pig’s testicles are located in the very back of its body…therefore almost the last appendage.) 3. Este machete no respeta a monte. This machete makes weeds its biaaatch. (Reference to a recently sharpened machete.) 4. Como sacar un pelo (de) micho. Like plucking a single hair from a cat. (Said when someone has a fat wad of cash and pulls out a small denomination bill, i.e. $1.00.) 5. ¡Chocame la penca! Gimme five! 6. ¡No te eches flores! Don’t throw flowers on yourself! (When you want to bring somebody down who is bragging.) 7. El siempre se mete la yuca. He always sticks in the yuca. (Said when somebody butts in during conversation or other affair.) 8. ¡Sudado (mojado) hasta la chácara! Sweaty (soaked) all the way to my nutsack! (Males only.) foto por Allison B. 38 9. Tirando la rula. Throwing the blade. (Reference to clearing with the machete.) “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 10. Se criaron en la cuna de oro. They were raised in a golden crib. (This one alludes to spoiled kids.) 11. ¡Voy a dar de comer los lombrices! I’m going to feed my intestinal worms! (When somebody wants to eat.) 12. Limpiando el horno para hacer pan. Cleaning the oven to foto por Katie S. make bread. (When somebody is picking their nose.) 13. ¡Cachimbón(a)! Deft, smart, menacing, delicious (Always said with enthusiasm, and used for just about everything, i.e. “¡Ese hombre es cachimbón con el machete!”, “¡La comida salió cachimbóna”, “¡Aquel monte es cachimbón para limpiar!”.) 14. ¡Como tres montado en la anca de un sapo! Like three riding on a toad’s backside! (Response to a greeting. Indicative of rough times.) 15. ¡Matamos el tigre bravo! Let’s kill the angry tiger! (One always rubs his/her stomach while saying this; means “let’s eat”.) 16. Hay que halar por los huevos. You’ve got to pull them in by the balls. (Repetitious advice for increasing attendance at meetings.) *Author takes credit for neither the creation nor dissemination of the above dichos. He is simply an advocate of the third goal of Peace Corps. foto por Wakan [email protected] 39 La Vaina Personal Space Samantha Bartling What is it about our invisible boundaries—our “space” that keeps us so guarded? It’s just space. How can we claim it as our own? Guarding our translucent barbed wire protectively, without even thinking twice or pondering how others simply don’t even realize this air is occupied and sacred…. Personal Space: You’re taught about it as a wee little tyke and it is often a teacher’s tool for keeping tiny kinder fights from breaking out in mad chaos across the Lego-strewn and Lincoln Logc l u t t e r e d classroom. As an adolescent it is often used as a self-esteem builder and self-defense tactic. “Don’t let anyone violate your personal space!” Later, it becomes less of an ambiguous notion and begins to take shape as you learn about it for yourself. Mine is large when annoyed, small when in need of comfort, and varies on bodily odors and my relationship with that person. My Kitchen: I’ve noticed here in Panama, that my personal space – the boundaries that I deem sacred, untouchable, and impenetrable – are places too. For example, my kitchen. This is where I prepare my meals, eat my sancochared mesclas and creative, although often crunchy, bean concoctions. This is NOT a place for ants or my cat, Amistad (Ami). Oh, I get steamy if I find a wandering ant near my cutting board or a curious Ami doing the two paw stretch from my chair to the table as she surveys the scene. It ends up being a horrible, squishy ant death by mutilation and a squirt of the spray bottle for the kitty. How funny, because, my kitchen i s nothing more than a wooden table with random stacks of bowls and Tupperware, just another play zone or human obstacle to explore for a meal. And yet, in my 40 mind: “How dare they violate my kitchen, No Way!” Followed by “Acks!” of disgust and disbelief. My Latrine: Just this morning I had drained my second travel mug of coffee (I know, I need to cut back on my caffeine in-take) and decided to venture out to the potty. Folks, I was even carrying my book along with the TP. I don’t need to explain why this place is sacred or why violation of this space should be deemed punishable to the full extent of campo law. There it was, a curled up little vibora peacefully resting in the corner, enjoying a lazy morning sheltered fro the rain. How is the snake to know my cardboardclad bathroom is off limits? Now use your imagination and move this little guy out into t h e monté as you’re on a hike or trekking to a nearby finca. No hay problema, a special Nature moment or journal-worthy topic documenting your latest Panamá wildlife experience. Snap your photo and thank the powers to be for this unique sighting. Marty Stauffer or Jack Hanna would be so lucky, right? But go back and place the snakey in my latrine… I promptly exhale in horror at this violation and march off to summon the snake’s death. I’m a meanie, huh? “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina unusually large dark patch clinging to my mosquitero. “What the...?” Forget the Nature moment, honestly! I lunge at the thing, machete flailing in an excited adrenaline-jetted moment. “Hah! Take that stinky pants!” I ought to be shocked and appalled at my aggressive and defensive behavior. What happened to love and respect for all creatures? It seems those feelings are still intact, but not in my “Red Zones”. My Mosquitero. A haven, a cave of safety and peace. In my mind, this canopy-draped sleep zone is a temple impenetrable by mosquitoes, moths, grillos, and any number of other bichos. Let alone an alacran. I awoke from my slumber at 3 am to the call of nature (due to the huge vaso of tea the night before, not the scorpion I’d soon discover). Upon re-entry to my netted nest I spot an So, I guess what I’m trying to say is, to all those species that can’t figure out my boundaries and personal space, and that foto por Wakan read La Vaina, I’d really like to eat, sleep, and poo poo in peace, ok? (See attached “Samantha’s Personal Space/Red Zone Map” if in need of further assistance. Thank you.) foto por Erika K. foto por Wakan [email protected] 41 La Vaina I Hope This Doesn’t Get Me Fired Blake Audsley What up, Gs! Blake here, coming to y’all straight out of the Azuero. Hope everybody is steerin’ clear of the Dengue-carrying mosquitoes and rabid vampire bats. I gotta tell you guys, if someone had told me ten years ago that the federal government was going to pay me to sit in a hammock in the tropics and eat oranges all day, I probably wouldn’t have believed it. But, while my time in country has been short, I have obtained valuable qualities and skills which I am hoping will allow me to climb the corporate ladder of Peace Corps, and eventually overthrow Peter as Country Director in a bloodless coup. Brace yourself, carajos, here’s my top ten list of things I’ve learned in Peace Corps so far. 5. Humility. If you relentlessly ridicule someone for breaking their leg, you in turn will be relentlessly ridiculed when you break your own leg. (But you probably won’t get deported to Nicaragua.) 10. Moral Flexibility. Eating endangered things is fun, so always be prepared to compromise your morals. Sea turtle eggs taste absolutely delicious, and no amount of militant Kerry-loving hippie environmental ethic is going to change that. Though once a principled conservationist, I am now a stringent advocate of devouring every unborn baby turtle and washing it down with a frosty cold Balboa Ice. Conejo pintado is pretty damn sabroso as well. 1. Economic Rationality. If you take our living allowance and break it down to a 40 hour work-week we make roughly $1.88 per hour. If, like me, you spend a minimum of three hours per week waiting for chivas, that comes out to $23 worth of time per volunteer per month, waiting for chivas. Each year, this is $276 per volunteer, or $552 per volunteer over a standard two year service period. There are at least one hundred volunteers in Peace Corp Panama at any given time, so the tax sucker (I mean payer) is shelling out $55,200 for us to sit around while our butts get fatter. Another way to look at it is to say that nearly 30,000 volunteer hours are spent idle in the course of a two-year service for a hundred volunteers. This is time that could be more adequately utilized sitting in a hammock, eating oranges, and throwing rocks at your neighbors’ chickens (or three year olds). What the hell is my point? MOTORCYCLES, BABY! The equivalent of 3.42 years of wasted work time is spent waiting for transportation. $552 is enough cash to get a sweet bike with flames and skulls on the sides, and pay for some cheap, low-coverage, third-world insurance. Plus, having motorcycles, we would automatically be the coolest post in Central America, maybe even the world. We could have our own gangs, and get dope jackets that say “Hell’s Satans” on the back! Could be the amount of time volunteers will spend at the medico due to moto-related injuries could be significant, but I expect the instantaneous deaths to keep medical bills low, and there is always a fresh supply of expendable new volunteers stateside. Plus, the rapid transportation would enable us to make pillaging raids on neighboring Peace Corps posts in Costa Rica and Nicaragua. (Remi best be watchin’ his back.) 9. Conflict Avoidance. If someone asks, “Are you a yeguero?” the answer is no. Do not accept the invitation to their farm, and no, you do not want to meet their horse. 8. Tolerance. Three year-old children are just like chickens: they’re smelly, they’re dirty, they’re necio, and they won’t hesitate to proudly crap wherever the hell they want to when the feeling hits them. I wouldn’t be surprised if the little buggers carry avian influenza. It’s lucky for them both that I haven’t built a biombo . . . yet. 7. Resourcefulness. A drunken Israeli surfer and 10 foot piece of rebar is a quick way to break into a 1995 GMC Jimmy. 6. Perseverance. With a little hard work and dedication, anyone can learn to speak Spanish. I came to Panama speaking like a 5 year old retarded chimp. After half a year in country, I am proud to say that I speak at the level of a 5 year old retarded man-child. 42 4. Enhanced Visual Acuity. I can now spot the stance of a machetero preparing to chop the head off of a non-venomous snake from a quarter mile away. 3. Loss of Naiveté. Gil speaks English. That’s right Gil, I’m on to you, pal. 2. Acceptance of Inevitability. No amount of Congo salsa can make you forget that the beef liver you just ate tasted like someone just poo-ed in your mouth. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 New Office Policy Thomas Kuhn From the office of the Safety Coordinator of Veraguas (a.k.a.: the safest guy to touch both oceans), comes a new office directive. We all know about the out-of-site box. While I have personally had to beat volunteers with sticks to get them to use it, at a minimum we all understand why the out-of-site box exists. In an effort to belabor the point I will state that the outof-site box helps the office, the regional leaders, and the safety coordinators insure that, in an emergency, we’ll be able to maintain open lines of communication with all volunteers regardless of the volunteers’ location. There is, however, one great failing of the out-of-site box, the site-locator forms, and, in fact, all normal means of office/volunteer contact. You see, whether or not we are able to contact a volunteer says nothing about whether or not the volunteer will be particularly communicative when contacted. I, personally, have found that contacting a volunteer is rarely the hard part. The hard part is getting the volunteer to a place where they can, once again, understand rudimentary elements of the English language, and follow simple instructions like: RUN, RUN, RUN YOU SILLY MONKEY!!! Upon calling either of these two numbers, your position will be immediately ascertained using the GPS transmitter each one of us had implanted into our head during our pre-service medical exams. A team of experts (read: drunken, angry, sleep-deprived men) will then be dispatched via chiva (I mean the animal, not the pick-up) to your location. You will then be sedated, bound, gagged, probably beaten like a bad, bad donkey, and finally transferred to a maximum-security mental institution to await lobotimization. After that the fairy queen will take the volunteer to sing with his happy high frog-ness and there remain until the volunteer can convince their mother that they did not flush the soap down the toilet, but she never listens to…oh god…STOP SCREAMING, STOP SCREAMING…then they’re covered in egg yolks, but that’s okay, I mean how many people really do get to visit Lapland, anyway? Damn…need a phone. The story is mine, but the idea was stolen from Jorge Solomon, a SAS volunteer in Veraguas, and friend of his happy high frog-ness. foto por Erika K. As a result of this problem, the office will be implementing a new call-in policy based on the out-of-site box. The new call-in box will be called the out-of-my-mind box, and will be directed at a volunteer’s mental location rather than their physical location. This is to say that beginning January 1, 2006, whenever a volunteer feels their mental condition beginning to slip, they are to immediately call the out-of-my-mind box. For the convenience of those using the service, and the expected demand, there will be two phone numbers assigned to receive messages. These numbers are: 444-2444444444444444444 (or: ggg-ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh) The second number can be dialed by simply smashing your face into the keypad of any phone, twice. [email protected] 43 La Vaina La Campesina Panameña Patricia Greenberg La campesina panameña A mis amigos y parientes para que se pongan al dia en eso del hablar del panameño. Algunas son un poco fuertes pero otras son de verdad ingeniosas… El panameño no ignora: chifea El panameño no se emborracha: queda hasta la verga, se empetrola El panameño no dice Hola, te dice: que sopá El panameño no tiene amigos: tiene pasieros El panameño no se cae: se saca la mierda, se saca la necks El panameño no se burla: se caga de risa El panameño no roba: transa El panameño no convence: tira lírica El panameño no pregunta ¿Como estás? sino: ¿Qué e’ lo q’ e’? El panameño no molesta: jode El panameño no se molesta: se cabrea El panameño no se enfada: se emputa El panameño no se golpea: se mete un vergazo El panameño no sufre de diarrea: sufre de cagadera El panameño no duerme: se hecha un sueño El panameño no toma siestas: hecha un cinco El panameño no va rapido: va a balazo El panameño no toma: chupa El panameño no es listo: es una rata El panameño no pide que lo lleven: pide un bote El panameño no dice “algo no esta bien”: dice “esta vaina vale verga” El panameño no hace el amor sino: culea El panameño no le hace el amor a su novia: se la echa El panameño no dice lesbiana: dice tortillera El panameño dice licor: dice guaro foto por Alan F. 44 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 foto por Sara L. El panameño no habla de sexo: habla de culear, ponchar, follar, en fin, cualquier cosa cuyo significado no aparezca en el diccionario El panameño no tiene sexo: se echa un polvo El panameño no dice que se forma una discusión: sino que se forma un verguero El panameño no dice que se forma un disturbio: sino que se forma la chucha madre El panameño no dice estoy confundido: dice me guille El panameño no dice homosexual: dice cueco El panameño no dice afeminado: dice maricón El panameño no se masturba: se pajea El panameño no tiene novia: tiene ley, candado, amarre, grúa, lo que sea que pueda impedir la libertad del mismo El panameño no dice locura: dice ponchera El panameño no dice que esta bien: dice que ta’ cool Para el panameño algo no esta bueno: esta del carajo El panameño no goza: tripea Para el panameño no hay algo bonito: hay algo sólido, duro, pritty El panameño no es tonto: es ahueva’o El panameño no es bobo: es pendejo El panameño no dice chofer: dice palanca El panameño no es celador: es wachiman El panameño no dice nalga: dice culo La Vaina El panameño no dice vagina: dice mil cosas que no están ni cerca a eso, dice tontón, dice cuca, dice araña, dice micha. El panameño no dice esperma: dice leche El panameño no se excita: se entolda El panameño no eyacula: se viene El panameño no penetra a la mujer: se lo entierra El panameño no le hizo el amor a su mujer: le dio huevo El panameño no tiene pene: tiene pico, picha El panameño no le dice a la mujer que es bella: le dice que es un pay El panameño no le dice a la mujer que tiene buen cuerpo: dice que tiene mansa cajeta El panameño no se olvida de alguien: lo escracha El panameño no es adinerado: ta’ monta’o El panameño no tiene carro: tiene nave El panameño no toma el bus: coje su respectivo democrático El panameño no romancea: arropa El panameño no escucha reggae: escucha plena Para el panameño algunas mujeres no son feas: son unos bagres, cangrejas El panameño no anda en un carro descuidado: anda rodando en una roña El panameño jamás ha tenido una casa: siempre ha tenido su chantín El panameño no ve pornografía: ve pelo-pelo El panameño no se distrae: se traslada El panameño no dice cigarrillos: dice blancos El panameño no dice que no tiene dinero: dice que esta pela’o, limpio, anda peloncho y/o anda en pelotas El panameño no juega: birrea El panameño no saluda: shotea El panameño no presume: pifea El panameño no sale: se arranca El panameño no pelea: o se enfrazca, o se embolilla Y lo más importante …el panameño nunca pierde una discusión porque siempre termina “mandándote pa’ la verga” El panameño no es cualquier cosa: es Panameño foto por Sara L. [email protected] 45 La Vaina the fourthgoal: maintain sanity Makin’ It Last Humidity or mold threatening your electronics? Next time you go to the US, walk into your neighborhood shoe store and walk out with your pockets bulging with tiny packets of silicone.* Pop them into Tupperware along with said electronics and rest easy. Rebel Yell Fellowship of Reconciliation (FOR), an interfaith (this includes those with no formal religious affiliation) peace movement with a goal of social and economic justice through non-violent means, has its eye on Panama. John Lindsay-Poland, author of Emperors in the Jungle: The Hidden History of the US in Panama, posts FOR’s Panama Update, which, as of late, highlights his passion for the environmental clean-up of US bases in Panama. www.forusa.or/programs/panama/default.html Great Grapes At Felipe Motta on Calle 53 in Marbella, you can get your hands on fine varietals from around the world, bottles that cost more than you make in three months, and other tasty treats from Europe and the US. One highlight is a framed poster blessing, or damning, grape harvests of the last several decades, giving you the low down on what years to look for if you really want to do a special occasion right. T:302-6633; www.felipemotta.com Open Mon. – Fri. 9am – 7pm, Sat. 9am – 6pm Athens Arguably the baker of the best pepperoni pizza pie in Panama City, Athens Pizza also offers affordable and fresh-vegetabled Greek-ish dishes. Very busy for weekday lunches. Please note that if ordering two individual pizzas instead of one medium pizza offers you a significantly better square-inch-of-pizza per dollar ratio. Mark Samples did the math so you don’t have to. At Calle 50 and Calle 48 next to the Delta gas station. Open everyday but Wednesday, 11am – 11:30pm. T:265-4637 *La Vaina staff and Peace Corps do not condone stealing, though, Josephine Kaiser thinks it’s just fine, so no worries. 46 Not Your Hotel Room Häagen Dazs Café The greatest thing about this place is their hours. Open 10:30a.m. to midnight EVERY DAY. A $3 ice-cream cone buys your admission to a few hours of writing, reading, or conversing while your out and about; it’s just like you used to do in the states. In Marbella at Plaza New York. T: 263-0040 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina Cultcha’ Nueva Acropolis Cultural Association of Panama located in El Cangrejo puts out a monthly activities calendar called Las Musas offering dance, yoga, and music classes; lectures on the arts; and an obtuse philosophical musings. T: 263-5602; www.acropolis.org.pa Laptop Users California Coffee Company in Paitilla may have a stripmall vibe, but it offers free wireless internet and some interesting coffee choices. Open Mon. – Fri. 7am – 10pm, Sat. – Sun. 10am – 10pm. T: 215-3085. It Ain’t Wholefoods Paitilla’s new and tiny health food shop Organica stocks pricey but healthy foods, snacks and sundries including (insert drum roll) Tom’s of Maine toothpaste. Open Mon. – Fri. 10am – 7pm, Sat. 10am – 5pm Cow Burgers in Panamá Este Benjamín Grostic is a big fan of Restaurante Avicar in Torti. They have fantastic sopa de res con arroz ($1.25), and you can even order a ½ helping if you aren’t too hungry. Want a taste of home? Avicar serves pizza, hamburgers (which he believes are real beef), and french fries. The atmosphere is nice with a T.V. and the cool buzz of ceiling fans. Last but not least, the owner, Andres, is a good guy who will help you out with anything and always seems to be in a friendly mood. He speaks some English and, for some reason, even seems to like us Peace Corps Volunteers. Museo de Arte Contemporaneo (the MAC) Located across Avenida de los Martires from the Palacio Legislativo, roughly where the Avenida Central walking mall comes to an end, you’ll find the Museo de Arte Contemporaneo. Now this is certainly not the refurbished MOMA, but for a twentieth the price (B:/ 1), they manage to compile exhibitions that are sure to chase the images of campo life from your mind—if only just for the afternoon. The current exhibit (the next exhibit opens January 19th) features works by Latin American artists, all from Panamanian collections. It includes paintings by the Mexican artist Rufino Tamaya, the Cuban Wilfredo Lam, and the Argentinian Fernando Maza among others. All of these have probably seen better lighting, but you have probably not gotten the sort of gallery-going experience the MAC offers here in Panama. Open Tues.– Sun. 9am – 5pm T: 262-3380 Fotos from top right, clockwise: Chris M., Allison B., Meliza W., Jon P., Shane M., Jon P. [email protected] 47 La Vaina Ideas for a Peace Corps Makeover Thomas Kuhn y Krista Katsantonis de Kuhn foto por Shane M. About a month ago our CD, Peter Redmond, sent out an email to all of us containing the text of an article from USA Today. The author (Laura Vanderkam) of the article asserts that the Peace Corps could better the world more quickly by changing its focus. By this, she means that the organization should shift its primary focus from building cross-cultural friendships to being a more effective development organization, placing volunteers in more developed sites, being more selective in recruiting volunteers and building in more accountability. If this shift means that cross-cultural exchange takes a back seat to results-oriented development work, wouldn’t we be throwing the proverbial baby out with the bath water? How about a makeover for Peace Corps that keeps cultural exchange in the front seat, as an equal partner, while making room for more effective and efficient development work? Couldn’t the two goals work together, rather than being at odds with one another and leaving 48 administrators and volunteers in the field often frustrated over what’s more valuable? The Legitimization of “Cuerpo de Paseo” – the New Volunteer How about a Peace Corps in which generalists are invited to serve by engaging in a purely cross-cultural experience; no detailed goals, no program specific objectives to meet? They would commit to a service, of let’s say one year, to integrate into a community, learn as much as possible about the local norms and culture and individuals, while sharing their own culture and experiences. At the end of this service their sole deliverable might be, in PDM parlance, a community analysis and a recommendation on how Peace Corps might proceed with development work. These individuals would require less technical training, and therefore would be less expensive for Peace Corps to field. They’d be meeting the second and third goals, at less cost to Peace Corps, and ultimately serving those that would be dedicated to serving the first goal. They would be free to have a cross-cultural experience without the constraints of program specific deliverables. These Volunteers, if they so chose (and if they had the requisite skill set and/or experience), at the end of their 1 year service, could opt to continue on as Extension Agents, committing to another period of service as well as additional training, and more accountability on specific deliverables. foto por Nicole R. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 One of the primary differences between Peace Corps volunteers and JICA or GTZ volunteers (or ministry technicos, for that matter) is that the volunteers LIVE in sites, with communities. The volunteers end up with a truer understanding of the area’s needs and norms because, over the course of time, some of the walls between us and them are broken down. In the USA Today article, the author cites a volunteer’s work in Nepal. This volunteer was sent to his site to teach. Upon arriving at this site, and realizing that educational needs needed to take a back seat to getting clean water, the volunteer changed his focus. Ms. Vanderkam states in her article, and not without validity, that a better use of funds may have been to send highly trained engineers to help construct the aqueduct. What Ms. Vanderkam forgets is that without the analysis of the first volunteer, a generalist, this type of aid never would have gotten to the community in the first place. The generalist is still absolutely essential to the process, and can set the stage for later success. Empowering the Specialists – the Birth of the true Extension Agent With the invaluable knowledge of what makes each particular foto por Norma H. community click being gathered by the volunteers, specialists could be recruited to do the Extension Agent job. The EA’s would be volunteers with specific skill sets, recruited to meet specific needs identified by volunteers (and their communities). They would be better supported (better staff to EA ratio, perhaps more technological resources) and challenged to deliver on specific program deliverables. They’d be goal-oriented professionals. In the case of the USA Today article, after the generalist has completed their time in country, they would make a recommendation for a specific type of EA. In this case, a trained expert in a specific field would be sent to an area where the need is known. In this case, an engineer would be sent to work constructing this aqueduct, and insuring its proper usage and maintenance. Just out of curiosity, does anybody reading this article know of any engineers who could help build aqueducts? I thought not. La Vaina By clarifying two different types of volunteers, each would be free to pursue distinct, and equally valuable, missions. It may be time for Peace Corps to make a change, but to misconstrue goals 2 and 3 as irrelevant products of an outmoded “roughing it” philosophy would be to abandon essential aspects of the Peace Corps mission that are as vital today as they were in the 1960’s. The problem is not a lack of skill sets or dedication, the problem is limited resources in terms of money, technology, time, and especially human resources. The “volunteers” would basically be sent to do a year’s worth of site development, and would become experts in, if nothing else, their site. APCDs, obviously, cannot devote this kind of time to a specific site for development purposes. This level of site development would, however, allow for only those sites most in need, and best able to receive a volunteer, to receive one. Highly limited resources would be put to use where they could have the greatest, most sustainable, impact. Sites where there was a lack of interest, leadership, dedication, or understanding could receive a second volunteer for continued development. It is relatively easy for a group to hide the fact that they’re going to be exceptionally difficult to deal with during 3-6 formal meetings, it’s much harder to hide over the course of a year, when exposed in all types of settings. If Peace Corps does want to become the “development partner of choice” as our former CD phrased it, greater levels of expertise and accountability will be demanded. However, while there have always been individuals in any given sector with greater levels of experience/ expertise, as a whole, Peace Corps’ traditional strength has been community development and grass-roots exposure, not technical know-how. If Peace Corps wants to move forward, while not losing or completely changing its identity, it must find a way to leverage its traditional strength in getting to that next level of professionalism. The basic premise is that we, the volunteers, represent the one resource Peace Corps has to offer. The better Peace Corps is at placing us in situations where we can succeed, the greater success Peace Corps, the hostcountries, and the communities will have. [email protected] 49 La Vaina Laura Vanderkam, Meet Paulo Freire Mark Samples Cognitive dissonance is a psychological term used to describe the process through which people convince themselves of what they want to believe in order to make themselves feel better about past actions that are considered unacceptable by society or their own conscience. Books such as LIES MY TEACHER TOLD ME by James W. Loewen and Howard Zinn’s A PEOPLE’S HISTORY OF THE UNITED STATES criticize history textbooks for this practice because they tend to make excuses for past tragedies by building up only the extraordinary acts of individuals and making them heroes in the eyes of students, while downplaying primary resources that document events more fully. History therefore is skewed through this process, repeated and “remembered” mostly by its makers. raising project. They love the idea and so do you. And why shouldn’t you? It means more iguana meat for everybody, receives heavy support from the local NGO touting it, helps stop the over-hunting of iguanas and, finally, gives you something to do that justifies countless hours spent swinging in a hammock while caught in endless debate as to whether or not you really are “doing” anything. So you engage in days of capacity building, wanting everyone to understand the entire process of raising these iguanas. You make charts, draw pictures and stay up nights studying your iguana-related Spanish vocabulary. And finally, when the charts are all read and everyone understands, a wave of realization travels through the village resulting in a big “no thanks” towards continuing with the project. With the eyes of Bambi staring down a Mack truck, you go back to your hammock and start to ask yourself questions. Laura Vanderkam in her USA Today article “Peace Corps Needs a Makeover”, all but accuses the Peace Corps of engaging in the process of cognitive dissonance. While the logic of her argument is wrong— she uses a shaky platform of evidence that begs to be rebuked in the harshest of volunteer wit—she haphazardly stumbles upon an interesting question. What does it mean to fail as a volunteer? To explore the question I turn to Brazilian reformer and activist Paulo Freire and his work PEDAGOGY OF THE OPPRESSED in hopes that his words can shed a little light on successful leadership in impoverished areas applicable to the development work we do here in Peace Corps Panama. Should a project that stutters and stops really be considered a failure? Should the “good” fight always be fought with every ounce of a volunteer’s 24/7 strength? Did the Peace Corps fail you by putting you in the above situation? Ms. Vanderkamin, who so compassionately referred to a secondary water project in this way, “Though it’s great that Namje has water, sites near cities can develop faster...” would more likely answer “yes” to these questions. Freire, however reminds us, “[r]evolutionary leaders commit many errors and miscalculations by not taking into account something so real as the people’s view of the world: a view which explicitly and implicitly contains their concerns, their doubts, their hopes, their way of seeing the leaders, their perceptions of themselves and of the oppressors, their religious beliefs,...their fatalism, their rebellious reactions....None of these elements can be seen separately, for in interaction all of them compose a totality....For the revolutionary leaders, the knowledge of this totality is indispensable to their action as cultural synthesis.” (Friere, pg.182). What follows is by no means an attempt to analyze Freire’s arguments. Instead, I hope to use his widely respected insights to continue the discussion that pushes us down the long path to freedom, not only for individuals in our Panamanian communities, but for ourselves. Let’s take a look at a Laura Vanderkamin “failure” through the lense of Freire. Consider this, a large group of people in your town are looking to start an iguana 50 Questioning the “results” of our work in Peace Corps leaves open the deeper issue of who should decide those results. Volunteers can appreciate when those results are developed by volunteers, as they are here in Panama, “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 but sometimes I wonder if there should even be such a thing in a grassroots organization. Shouldn’t the people that we serve everyday be the ones to determine the results they want to accomplish and the pace at which they wish to proceed? We, as volunteers, have a set amount of time hanging over our head as to when projects should be completed and results accomplished, but should that really be the driving force behind our development work? I can understand the frustration of a reporter that is using a top down scale to evaluate the progress of a Peace Corps worker, but she is mistaken in believing that the story of RPCV Rajeev Goyal in Nepal is one of failure of resources that could have been accomplished by an $80,000 engineer-run project. What this reporter might ask is what team of engineers would foto por Ann M. have discovered that this town actually needed reliable access to potable water since even the people developing this site missed the fact that children carrying buckets of water six hours a day might affect Rajeev’s ability to teach. The fact of the matter is that the job of “making friends” and building trust is one of the unique things we do as an organization. Shouldn’t a large part of our role as volunteers be one of simply understanding what it is like to have your life revolve around water, access to food and technology? A lot of agencies that probably give this reporter credit often fail to start with that basic task and it is the reason why their $80,000 aqueduct project with global phones and internet access sometimes fails miserably in the face of $7,000-$9000 aqueduct projects being worked on right now by volunteers. And what’s the difference? The $5,000-$9,000 usually comes from the pockets of touched family members (goal 3), friends (goal 3) or piece-meal conglomerates of other agencies, meaning that the same so called bloated $80,000 put forth towards our two year stint is going towards ownership, training and God forbid, love, trust and friendship. La Vaina And so where does this all lead us? Certainly not to the point of giving merit to Vanderkam’s analysis of the “my site is rougher than your site” pissing contest that sometimes will occur in moments when a volunteer desperately clings to some acknowledgment of a fairly thankless job. Certainly not to the shunning of technology. But it does guide us down a road of empathy and true understanding of development work as helping those that have their own vision of what success is and how to m e a s u r e accomplishment. Freire espouses that mutual cultural synthesis among all participants coupled with a constructivist or problem-posing approach towards education, as opposed to teaching set concepts to be banked by students, together serve as the most effective techniques to use in liberating oppressed peoples. How can we the volunteers, staff and administrators of Peace Corps Panama continually check ourselves from falling into top down approaches to education? What emphasis are we currently placing on positive grassroots behavior change techniques during initial and in-service trainings and how well do our evaluation procedures (e.g. informes and site visits) judge these techniques as opposed to rubrics on pre-ordained objectives? This article, if nothing else, is a call for more and more dialogue on the subject of development work, poverty, empathy and communication. Upon reviewing it I count ten questions that are by no means meant to be rhetorical. La Vaina is a magazine without glossy pages containing articles of no set page limit written by unpaid volunteers and dedicated staff members. It serves as a perfect forum for endless discussion. As a volunteer who struggles everyday with what he has and has not accomplished in his time here, I sit eager to hear from other volunteers, directors and staff on what you think about the developing road before you. [email protected] 51 La Vaina OP-ED CONTRIBUTOR The Rock Star’s Burden By PAUL THEROUX Published in the New York Times: December 15, 2005 THERE are probably more annoying things than being hectored about African development by a wealthy Irish rock star in a cowboy hat, but I can’t think of one at the moment. If Christmas, season of sob stories, has turned me into Scrooge, I recognize the Dickensian counterpart of Paul Hewson - who calls himself “Bono” - as Mrs. Jellyby in “Bleak House.” Harping incessantly on her adopted village of Borrioboola-Gha “on the left bank of the River Niger,” Mrs. Jellyby tries to save the Africans by financing them in coffee growing and encouraging schemes “to turn pianoforte legs and establish an export trade,” all the while badgering people for money. It seems to have been Africa’s fate to become a theater of empty talk and public gestures. But the impression that Africa is fatally troubled and can be saved only by outside help - not to mention celebrities and charity concerts - is a destructive and misleading conceit. Those of us who committed ourselves to being Peace Corps teachers in rural Malawi more than 40 years ago are dismayed by what we see on our return visits and by all the news that has been reported recently from that unlucky, drought-stricken country. But we are more appalled by most of the proposed solutions. I am not speaking of humanitarian aid, disaster relief, AIDS education or affordable drugs. Nor am I speaking of smallscale, closely watched efforts like the Malawi Children’s Village. I am speaking of the “more money” platform: the notion that what Africa needs is more prestige projects, volunteer labor and debt relief. We should know better by now. I would not send private money to a charity, or foreign aid to a government, unless every dollar was accounted for - and this never happens. Dumping more money in the same old way is not only wasteful, but stupid and harmful; it is also ignoring some obvious points. 52 If Malawi is worse educated, more plagued by illness and bad services, poorer than it was when I lived and worked there in the early 60’s, it is not for lack of outside help or donor money. Malawi has been the beneficiary of many thousands of foreign teachers, doctors and nurses, and large amounts of financial aid, and yet it has declined from a country with promise to a failed state. In the early and mid-1960’s, we believed that Malawi would soon be self-sufficient in schoolteachers. And it would have been, except that rather than sending a limited wave of volunteers to train local instructors, for decades we kept on sending Peace Corps teachers. Malawians, who avoided teaching because the pay and status were low, came to depend on the American volunteers to teach in bush schools, while educated Malawians emigrated. When Malawi’s university was established, more foreign teachers were welcomed, few of them replaced by Malawians, for political reasons. Medical educators also arrived from elsewhere. Malawi began graduating nurses, but the nurses were lured away to Britain and Australia and the United States, which meant more foreign nurses were needed in Malawi. foto por Sara L. When Malawi’s minister of education was accused of stealing millions of dollars from the education budget in 2000, and the Zambian president was charged with stealing from the treasury, and Nigeria squandered its oil wealth, what happened? The simplifiers of Africa’s problems kept calling for debt relief and more aid. I got a dusty reception lecturing at the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation when I pointed out the successes of responsible policies in Botswana, compared with the kleptomania of its neighbors. Donors enable embezzlement by turning a blind eye to bad governance, rigged elections and the deeper reasons these countries are failing. Mr. Gates has said candidly that he wants to rid himself of his burden of billions. Bono is one of his trusted advisers. Mr. Gates wants to send computers to Africa - an unproductive not to say insane idea. I would offer pencils and paper, mops and brooms: the schools I have seen in Malawi need them badly. I would not send more teachers. “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” La Vaina January - March 2006 placed Malawian friend of mine once jovially demanded that my children come and teach there. “It would be good for them,” he said. Of course it would be good for them. Teaching in Africa was one of the best things I ever did. But our example seems to have counted for very little. My Malawian friend’s children are of course working in the United States and Britain. It does not occur to anyone to encourage Africans themselves to volunteer in the same way that foreigners have done for decades. There are plenty of educated and capable young adults in Africa who would make a much greater difference than Peace Corps workers. Planet Earth poor Greg Landrigan foto por Josh C. If we could shrink the earth’s population to a village of precisely 100 people, with all the existing human ratios remaining the same, it would look something like the following. I would expect Malawians themselves to stay and teach. There ought to be an insistence in the form of a bond, or There would be: a solemn promise, for Africans trained in medicine and education at the state’s expense to work in their own 57 idiots 21 frat boys countries. 14 people dressed in hip huggers Malawi was in my time a lush wooded country of three 8 in heels too high for them to walk properly million people. It is now an eroded and deforested land 52 would be telling bad jokes 42 would be laughing at these jokes of 12 million; its rivers are clogged with sediment and 6 would be dressed in black, smoking cigarettes, every year it is subjected to destructive floods. The trees looking annoyed that had kept it whole were cut for fuel and to clear land 70 would be bad dancers for subsistence crops. Malawi had two presidents in its 30 would be annoyed by them first 40 years, the first a megalomaniac who called himself 89 would be believers and scared the messiah, the second a swindler whose first official 11 would be non-believers and scared 60 would regularly consume green bananas act was to put his face on the money. Last year the new 40 would wait for them to turn yellow man, Bingu wa Mutharika, inaugurated his regime by 50 would suffer from metaphysical depression announcing that he was going to buy a fleet of Maybachs, 48 would suffer from metaphorical depression 2 would be happy (occasionally) one of the most expensive cars in the world. Many of the schools where we taught 40 years ago are These figures taken from a comprehensive La Vaina now in ruins - covered with graffiti, with broken windows, survey conducted in the volunteer lounge at 1pm on standing in tall grass. Money will not fix this. A highly December 19, 2005. [email protected] 53 La Vaina Africa is a lovely place - much lovelier, more peaceful and more resilient and, if not prosperous, innately more self-sufficient than it is usually portrayed. But because Africa seems unfinished and so different from the rest of the world, a landscape on which a person can sketch a new personality, it attracts mythomaniacs, people who wish to convince the world of their worth. Such people come in all forms and they loom large. White celebrities busy-bodying in Africa loom especially large. Watching Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie recently in Ethiopia, cuddling African children and lecturing the world on charity, the image that immediately sprang to my mind was Tarzan and Jane. Bono, in his role as Mrs. Jellyby in a 10-gallon hat, not only believes that he has the solution to Africa’s ills, he is also shouting so loud that other people seem to trust his answers. He traveled in 2002 to Africa with former Treasury Secretary Paul O’Neill, urging debt forgiveness. He recently had lunch at the White House, where he expounded upon the “more money” platform and how African countries are uniquely futile. Ethiopian border, where I found only skinny camels and roving bandits. Western Zambia is off the map, southern Malawi is terra incognita, northern Mozambique is still a sea of land mines. But it is pretty easy to leave Africa. A recent World Bank study has confirmed that the emigration to the West of skilled people from small to medium-sized countries in Africa has been disastrous. Africa has no real shortage of capable people - or even of money. The patronizing attention of donors has done violence to Africa’s belief in itself, but even in the absence of responsible leadership, Africans themselves have proven how resilient they can be - something they never get credit for. Again, Ireland may be the model for an answer. After centuries of wishing themselves onto other countries, the Irish found that education, rational government, people staying put, and simple diligence could turn Ireland from an economic basket case into a prosperous nation. In a word - are you listening, Mr. Hewson? - the Irish have proved that there is something to be said for staying home. But are they? Had Bono looked closely at Malawi he would have seen an earlier incarnation of his own Ireland. Both countries were characterized for centuries by famine, religious strife, infighting, unruly families, hubristic clan chiefs, malnutrition, failed crops, ancient orthodoxies, dental problems and fickle weather. Malawi had a similar sense of grievance, was also colonized by absentee British landlords and was priest-ridden, too. Just a few years ago you couldn’t buy condoms legally in Ireland, nor could you get a divorce, though (just like in Malawi) buckets of beer were easily available and unruly crapulosities a national curse. Ireland, that island of inaction, in Joyce’s words, “the old sow that eats her farrow,” was the Malawi of Europe, and for many identical reasons, its main export being immigrants. It is a melancholy thought that it is easier for many Africans to travel to New York or London than to their own hinterlands. Much of northern Kenya is a no-go area; there is hardly a road to the town of Moyale, on the 54 “The toughest revista you’ll ever love.” January - March 2006 La Vaina Restaurant review: Manzanas Mark Husfeld Part of the Peace Corps experience are its temporal delights as well as the social and professional ones. This introduces my recommendation for the restaurant “Manzanas” in the heart of Panamá City´s Casco Antiguo. Directly across the plaza from the museum that hosts each new Peace Corps groups´ graduation ceremony is located this delightful restaurant find, to be appreciated by fellow culinairs and renaissance men and women alike. You can´t miss Manazana´s bright ochre-yellow façade. Inside, the atmosphere is brightly lit by ample windows that face the adjacent plaza and cathedral. This gives the simple, smart décor the cheerful illumination of natural light. I was served by the restaurants´ English-speaking administrator, Jose Antonio Cruz Espinoza. His service was impeccably warm and attentive. Each meal is preceded by a serving of focaccia bread with an olive oil drizzle. For lunch I ordered the garlic chicken breast plate. Sautéed to perfection in garlic and olive oil, the meat was mouthwatering, but true to Panamanian style, bones were intact. Alongside this course was a perfectly golden serving of oven crusted new potatoes and a slightly al dente vegetable medley of foto por Jessica S. various bell peppers, onions, and broccoli. What put the dish into the upper echelons of Panamanian cuisine was the two heads of roasted garlic,which when plucked from their papery husks, made a savory spread on the chicken. foto por Ann M. In the company of two colleagues, I was able to sample some of Manzana´s lighter fare, a lemony, piquant gaspacho served chilled that reminded me of spring vegetables, and a sumptuous lobster bisque. The coffee was pure quality and served European strength, which is as it should be. The dessert menu looked enticing, but there´s only so much you can order on a volunteer´s budget. Main dishes are in the six dollar range and up, but portion sizes are sufficient to leave you satiated and not overstuffed. All in all, the dining experience left a noteworthy impression. Next time you are fortunate enough to celebrate the swearing-in of a group of Peace Corp newbies, plan on treating yourself to a great lunch on the other end of the square. [email protected] 55