Exploring Northern Veracruz State

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Exploring Northern
Veracruz State
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III-1
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Northern Route
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III-2
Xalapa: Downdown
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III-3
XPLORING NORTHERN
VERACRUZ STATE
XALAPA
90-MINUTES FROM VERACRUZ
CITY
(hah-LAH-pah; also spelled Jalapa)
Known as the “Athens of Veracruz” because
of its cultural wealth and cosmopolitan air,
Xalapa is the state’s capital and administrative
center. There are over 350 registered historic/
artistic places within the city, including parks,
plazas, buildings, churches, and streets.
Located 106 km (65 miles) from the port of
Veracruz, the city is 1,460 meters (4,790 feet)
above sea level. It has a temperate, wet climate with an annual average tem¬perature
of 18° (67° Fahrenheit), which drops in the
winter. Expect heavy afternoon and evening
thunderstorms in the summer and early fall.
Xalapa is in the foothills of the mighty Cofre
de Perote (4274 meters/ 14,022 feet). This
extinct volcanic peak is visible (along with
the taller Pico de Orizaba) from the city’s
main square.
Note: For guided climbing excursions to these
two mountains contact Aventura Extrema at
www.aventuraextrema.com.mx More into
bird watching? Environmental Adventure
Company (www.eactours.com | tel: 1-888422-5660) has fall migration, multi-day tours
to witness the State’s diverse aviary offering.
This urbane, yet provincial highland city
(pop. 390,000) is one of the Mexico most
charming state capitals. The blend of setting
and university town atmosphere give Xalapa
a captivating energy. Students from all over
Mexico study here -- as do foreigners (Note:
The smiling stat
Exploring North: Xalapa
check the Escuela de Estudiantes Extranjeros at www.uv.mx/eee for
details).
Cool, clean, and green, Xalapa traces its roots to Pre-Hispanic times.
Cortés came through on his way to Mexico City in 1519, however
the city did not become important until the Spanish crown’s annual
trade fair was moved here in 1720. Today, Xalapa is the center for coffee and tobacco
trading and the
home of one of
Mexico’s best public universities.
AV. TEMP
(Loop route Veracruz City-Xalapa-Coatepec
Perote-Papantla-Costa Esmeralda- Veracruz
City) Note: For route driving details, please
review the information on page III-2.
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III-4
A Mexican Versailles
Heading towards Xalapa from Veracruz City,
take time to detour from the main highway to
visit Hacienda El Lencero. This former retreat of
General Santa Ana (1794-1876; Mexico’s president on 11 different occasions, and unknowing “inventor” of chewing gum!) is a miniature
“Mexican Versailles.”
As you enter under giant laurel and jacaranda
trees there are three buildings: a lovely restored
convent; a stately chapel; and the hacienda’s
main house, which is now a museum. Behind
these buildings are acres of streams, pools with
swans, small bridges and sprawling gardens
filled with flowers, bouganvillia, and ancient
shade trees. The property’s towering higuera
monumental fig tree is said to be over 500
years old. This is one of the most peaceful settings in all of
Mexico, and
shouldn’t be
missed. Open
TuesdaySunday from
10am-5pm.
XALAPA continues
The hillside setting and lush vegetation give the city some
lovely terraced parks, including Parque Juárez, which is the
city’s main square. The square is well maintained and is the
center of the town’s social scene. The southern side of the park
looks over the valley below, offering scenic views of the Sierra
Madre Oriental mountains in the distance. Parque Juárez is the
location of the Monastery of San Francisco. Its central garden
features enormous monkey puzzle trees, art gallerys, an agora,
workshops, auditorium and a café.
These attractions are a mere distraction
compared to the city’s main asset, the exquisite Museo de Antropología. The museum
(run to a T by the local university) rivals great
museums from around the world. Its architectural ingenuity and sublime display of
Across from the Parque Juárez is the Palacio Municipal. This is
an important neoclassical style building dating from 1885, and
carved stone faces from the region’s Amerindian civilizations
enhance its beautiful architecture. The Palacio de Gobierno
(seat of state government) is on the eastern side of the park.
Step inside to view murals by Mario Orozco Rivera. In front of
the Palacio, the city’s Cathedral (begun in 1772) has a crisp yellow exterior and clean white trim.
Parque Paseo de los Lagos, is just below the Parque Juárez.
Winding lakeside bike paths attract joggers, strolling lovers and families. The city’s other centrally located park is Los
Tecajetes – located in a ravine covered in typical cloud forest
flora. Through the rivine runs a fresh-water spring that feeds
the beautiful aqueducts, artificial pools and canals of the park.
Many come to exercise on the trails surrounding the greenery
or to visit the amphitheater. Other parks include the Parque
Ecológico Macuiltépetl (popular with joggers and hikers and
for its expansive city views).
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III-5
COATEPEC
XALAPA continues
rare artifacts – both miniature and massive is highly
unique. Originally founded in 1957 and opening its
current building in 1987, the museum now houses
30 centuries of art and history with 3,000 pieces on
display. This special museum is home to one of the
world’s most important and richest collections of preColumbian artifacts.
Coatepec (Koh-ah-teh-PEK; population 50,000) is situated in a small
valley surrounded by fragrant
coffee plantations, lush citrus
orchards, sugar cane, greenhouses and nurseries. Occupied
for centuries by the Totonacos, Coatepec was
founded in 1560. In 1702 the Spanish crown ratified
the city and it became an 18th century stopover point
for trade caravans between Mexico City and Veracruz
City.
Inside, visitors will find a series of gradually descending marble-floored levels, with accompanying openair garden areas, showcasing monumental works of
pre-Columbian sculpture. The museum has six rooms
for exhibitions and sprawling outdoor lawn spaces
with flowering trees.
The contrast of seven giant 20-ton stone Olmec heads
with delicate pottery is remarkable. Rent an audio
tour headset for $20 pesos (in English) and learn fascinating details about the Olmec and Totonac cultures
of Veracruz State. This is a “must see” attraction. Café
and onsite gift shop. Open daily 9am - 5pm.
While in Xalapa and looking to book excursions to
outlying areas, contact Viajes Imher for arrangements
(tel: 52-228-815-6698). For Xalapa loding options
(from five star to bargain) see the separate Lodging
Directory chapter.
Located just 12 km (just under 8 miles) from Xalapa,
Coatepec is 1,200 meters (3,900 feet) above sea level,
has a temperate (yet wet) climate and an annual average temperature of 19° C (67° Fahrenheit). Expect
heavy afternoon rainfall in the summer and early fall.
The landscape is blend of forest vegetation, pines,
poplars, and cedar. The climate is ideal for nurseries and gardens, making this a perfect home for the
region’s abundance of orchids.
The people of Coatepec are charismatic, cheerful
and welcoming. They know how to enjoy life and are
proud of producing a wide variety of delicious wines
and liquors using traditional methods. The city’s architecture is of Andalusia-style with flowering patios
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COATEPEC continues
behind wrought iron gates.
Coatepec coffee has been popular in Europe since
the 19th century, and it is still the area’s main crop.
Beans were brought from Cuba in 1808 and the first
plantation was launched at the Hacienda La Orduña
(see below). Coffee history is on display at the city’s
Museo del Café on the city’s outskirts. There’s also
the Museo Mata. This elegant 19th century estate
was once the largest coffee processing plant in the
Americas. A major Coffee Fair takes place from April
30-May 15 each year.
The town is laid out
with broad paved
streets lined with
mansions and colonial-era homes dating back to 1800s.
Clean, stone inlaid
streets are just right
for strolling and taking in the city sites.
Balconies hang
above most sidewalks, provided
much needed protection from the
frequent after-
noon rains (most prominent July-October). Take the
30-minute trolley tour (Spanish narration) for an overview of attractions. The city has arguably more historic buildings per block than any other in Veracruz
State (374 registered historic sites from the 17-19th
century!)
Attractions are centered at the Parque Miguel
Hidalgo, Coatepec’s lush main square. On one side
is La Parroquia de San Jerónimo, a beautiful parish
church with baroque and neoclassic touches. It was
built between 1684-1742. Off to the other side of the
square is a former private home whose entire exterior is covered with hand-painted blue Talavera tile.
Interesting shops now occupy the building. The neoclassic Palacio Municipal (opposite the Parroquia de
San Jerónimo) was completed in 1886.
Just opposite the tree-filled main square are several hip espresso bars. Two blocks from here on Calle
Aldama is the eclectic La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
de Guadalupe. Its neoclassic exterior is a vibrant
orange with brown trim, and inside, the walls are
adorned with silver leaf ornamentation.
For shoppers, Coatepec is known for its talabartería
leather crafts, including fine saddles, furniture, and
hand-tooled leather portraits. Of course, coffee and
items made from its wood are also popular.
Coatepec is now part of Mexico’s “Pueblos Mágicos”
(Magical Towns) collection, which has inspired the
city’s residents to further beautify the town and open
interesting shops, coffee houses and some fine restaurants. Coatepec warrants at least an overnight stay
to take its many charms (see Lodging section of this
guide for details). Stop in at the Posada Coatepec for
a fine meal amidst the luxurious appointments of one
of Mexico’s finest boutique properties.
OTHER COATEPEC ATTRACTIONS:
Adventurous visitors can begin exploring by walking
or driving the Cerro de las Culebras, a steep hill with
an observation tower perched at its crest. The views
are magnificent!
Other adventure outings include spectacular caverns,
rivers, caves, rock walls and waterfalls (the Cascada
de la Granada is of particular note). Abundant ecoadventure sites are within a few km to the west of
town.
The Ex-hacienda La Orduña dates to 1593 and
once existed as a 6,000-hectare (13,200 acre) estate
dedicated to sugar cane, coffee, oranges and ranching. Full restored in 2005, the former hacienda now
houses the La Ceiba Gráfica art center. Located just
to the south of town.
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COATEPEC continues
Also of interest is the unique Centro Ecoturístico
Agualegre. This park has a forest setting with natural swimming pools, flourishing plant and animal
life, and the unusual “Apiterapia” treatment where
bee venom is used to treat a varied of ailments.
XICO
Don’t miss the chance to visit the nearby village of
Xico (HE-koh), just a ten-minute drive to the west
of Coatepec. Located inside an ecological reserve,
Xico is a noble and mystical town. The main draw
is the Cascada de Texolo (a spectacular waterfall)
crashing into a tributary of the La Antigua River.
Scenes from the film “Romancing the Stone” were
shot around Xico and at this breathtaking waterfall. A suspension bridge takes you close to the
fall’s gushing snout, and enticing jungle-shrouded
mineral baths can be seen some 50 meters below.
Xico is a small colonial town with few amenities. However, its stone-paved streets, old houses,
the town chapels, quaint squares, and intriguing barrios are worth a stroll. There is a “Mercado
Ecológico” selling locally produced coffee, beauty
products, handicrafts, and something called “huevos de Mujeres con Huevos”. At Calle Hidalgo 214.
PEROTE
The town of Perote (pop: 35,000) is 51 km (31
miles) due west from Xalapa and is noteworthy
for its proximity to one of the country’s highest
mountain peaks, the Cofre de Perote volcano. At
4,274 meters (14,022 feet) above sea level, Perote
occasionally sees snow in December and January,
and temperatures here fall below zero. The mountain is enveloped in a cloud of mist much of the
year.
Cofre de Perote, located in a National Park, is
ideal for camping and eco-adventure in the great
Sierra Madre Oriental. The Park can be reached
by car via a winding paved road that climbs some
1,900 meters (6,233 feet) in a mere 24 km (15
miles)! The road ends just below the summit.
Mountain biking, horseback riding and hiking
are all popular. For experienced mountain climbers, one of Perote’s faces is apt for scaling. From
its summit at 4,274 meters (14,022 feet), there is a
spectacular view of distant Pico de Orizaba (North
America’s second tallest peak), green valleys and
surrounding mountains.
On the way to the mountain, there are a number of small villages. Pescados, which is the last
outpost for buying food and supplies, also boasts
hospitable locals who offer their homes to accom-
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III-8
RAFT ADVENTURES
Three rivers converge in Jalcomulco area: the
Actopán, Antigua, and Filo-Bobos, all with class I
to V rapids.
RIO ACTOPAN BASICS
Level of Difficulty: Class II-III / Beginner. Rio
Actopan rafting trips are rated class II-III making
them a good choice for families or travelers looking
for a fun day out on the river.
Scenery: Narrow Limestone Canyon. The source of
Rio Actopan is the Descabezadero, where natural
springs feed the river from a striking fern-lined limestone amphitheatre. The beautiful clear water carries rafters through a narrow canyon past countless
mango plantations.
Season: June – October. River rafting is available on
the Rio Actopan during the rainy months from June
– October
RIO ANTIGUA BASICS
Level of Difficulty: Class II-IV / Beginner to
Intermediate. Rio Antigua river rafting trips vary
tremendously, so paddlers have many options.
Different sections of the river range from gentle
class II riffles to big and challenging class IV whitewater. This natural variety means family vacationers
and adventure travelers alike will find the perfect
JALCAMULCO, RAFTING continues
Rio Antigua river trip. The Rio Antigua can be split
up into three distinct runs:
Puente Pescados Section: The Puente Pescados run features
demanding class IV whitewater. The continuous rapids and
powerful water are the perfect challenge for experienced
rafters or adrenaline-loving and active first-timers.
Jalcolmulco-Carrizal Section: The Jalcomulco-Carrizal run
gives paddlers a little more “down time” than the Puente
Pescados section. The class III-IV rapids provide challenges
and thrills but calm pools offer a breather and a chance
to appreciate the lush tropical fruit plantations and active
wildlife living along the banks of the river.
Puente Nacional Section: The class II-III Puente National run
is the most accessible section of the Rio Antigua. Fun rapids and beautiful scenery make this a great family float or
fun day trip. The highlight of this section is the opportunity
for travelers to see the largest hawk migration in the world.
Every year in the fall and spring over 5 million birds fly over
this section as they travel through the natural passage way
between the mountains and the sea.
Scenery and Wildlife: Deep Canyon with Colorful
Birds. Steep walls, mangroves, coffee plantations,
and vibrant bird populations characterize the Rio
Antigua canyon. Whitewater rafting trips paddle
past unforgettable scenery, small villages, and flocks
of exotic birds like kingfishers, herons, and parrots.
The water for this beautiful canyon is sourced high
in the peaks of the Sierra Madre Mountain range,
making it crystal clear.
Season: Year-round. Rafting trips on the Rio Antigua
modate tourists.
You can also explore Valle Alegre (just west of the
town of Las Vigas), which is a private 400-hectare
(988-acre) natural reserve (www.vallealegre.com.
mx ). Inside the reserve, animals brought from
various parts of the world (Peruvian llamas, cattle
from Scotland, Canadian moose, African antelope,
and American buffalo), are sheltered and bred.
There is also a hostel and a good restaurant. In
this high mountain environment, be sure to take
advantage of specialized guides for sports such as
horseback riding, mountain climbing, rappelling,
zip lines, and mountain biking.
JALCOMULCO
On the banks of the Río Antigua Mother Nature
created the perfect stage for extreme sports
fans from around the world. This region’s abundant eco-recreation activities are legendary and
include world-class river rafting, kayaking, mountain biking, hiking, climbing, and rappelling.
Located 40 km (24 miles) south from the capital of
Xalapa, the town of Jalcomulco is Mexico’s de facto
rafting capital. The climate is warm and steamy
with heavy rainfall in the summer and early fall. The
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III-9
Rafting Outfitters (Veracruz-based)
Adventures Selva Azul .......www.mexicorivers.com | T. 52-222-240- 6455
Amigos del Río.........................www.amigosdelrio.com.mx | T. 52- 228-815-8817
Mexico Verde . .........................www.mexicoverde.com | T. 52-279-832-3734
Quinto Sol .................................www.quinto-sol.com.mx | T: 52-555-395-5252
Río y Montaña ........................www.rioymontana.com | T: 52-555-520-2041
Veraventuras............................ www.veraventuras.com | T: 52-229-921-1550
Veracruz Adventures............ www.veracruzadventures.com | T: 52-229-931-5358
RAFT ADVENTURES continues
can be booked year round but the dynamics of the river
change according to water level. (Always check with a
local outfitter to determine the conditions.) At lower
flows, the runs grow more technical, while at higher
water flows the same rapids feature big pushy hydraulics
and powerful waves. Rio Antigua river trips can be short
and action-packed one-day trips, relaxing floats, or multiday adventures.
RIO FILO-BOBOS BASICS
Level of Difficulty: Class III-IV / Intermediate. Rio FiloBobos river rafting trips are rated a challenging class III-IV.
Both adrenaline-loving novice rafters and experienced
whitewater paddlers will enjoy the adventure this river
has to offer.
vegetation is medium to low subtropical forest, surrounded by impressive
mango trees. Among the many bird species living in the region, there are the
picocanoa, hummingbird, purple dove,
and roadrunner. The people around
Jalcomulco belong to the Huasteca preColumbian culture, and their traditions
and beliefs are apparent throughout
the town. The locals still believe in the
chaneques (mischievous elves, similar to
the aluxes of the Mayan world).
An interesting feature of Jalcomulco
is “La Bocina del Pueblo” (People’s
Megaphone), where each morning a per-
Scenery and History: Tropical Birds and El Cuajilote
Ruins. Rio Filo-Bobos river trips run through the government-protected and semi-tropical Reserva Ecológica de
Filo-Bobos and offer nature lovers and bird-watchers
ample opportunities to appreciate the natural resources
of the Veracruz region. The riverbank is dotted with natural springs and waterfalls, while limestone cliffs provide a
dramatic backdrop. Another highlight of these particular
river trips are the nearby ruins of El Cuajilote, which were
only discovered in 1992. Scholars believe the Nawa people, a culture thought to be even more ancient than the
Maya, may have built these ruins.
Season: November – February. Multi-day trips on the Rio
Filo-Bobos are available during the winter months.
Source: www.rafting.com
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III-10
River Lodges
The operator, Mexico Verde, oper
Located on the shores of
ates the pretty Mexico Verde
the Pescados River, Picocanoa is
Adventure Resort, also near
Rio Y Montaña’s signature lodge.
Jalcomulco. Clients choose between
Surrounded by the warmth and
safari or suite tent-like lodging. Full
color of the local culture, Picocanoa
bathroom facilities are in separate
is home to 24 comfortable adobe
quarters. The camp is quite well
cabañas surrounding a tiled pool,
appointed with a swimming pool,
open-air bar and dining patio.
temazcal sweet lodge, climbing wall,
Nearby white water rafting tours
and kid’s play area. They offer some
float past some of Mexico’s ancient
cities and pristine jungle landscapes. great family programs. www.mexicoverde.com
Offerings include wonderful buffet
Eco-adventure pioneers
meals, a fascinating tour of local cof- Veraventuras
operate the Carrizal
fee plantations or an unforgettable
Hotel
&
Spa.
This
four-star property
platform-to-platform leap across the
opened
in
1954
and
was extensively
zip line “Tirolesa,” meaning “Treetop
renovated
in
2005.
Located
on the
Traverse.” Later, a well-deserved masshore
of
the
Río
Pescados
–Antigua
sage and ancient mystic steam called
in the town of Apazapán, there are
“Temazcal” will renew the body and
23 bungalow-style tent units and
spirit. An afternoon siesta nestled in
a cozy riverside hammock is the per- 30 standard rooms with air-condifect conclusion to your exciting day! tioning and TV. Pool, campground,
Okavango is a luxury “tented” camp restaurant, meeting rooms. Next
next door to Picocanoa and generally door is the Parque Acuático y Aguas
used for corporate and group events. Termales with thermal waters, slides,
A bit more rustic, but first class all the and riverside facilities. www.carrizalspa.com; tel. 52-228-818-9779.
way. www.rioymontana.com.
JALCAMULCO, RAFTING continues
son calls out to the inhabitants through
a megaphone to announce ads for services, meetings of fishermen, community board meetings, best wishes for
birthdays, and general information.
foot mountain bike descent, zip lines,
rappel, rafting in class II and III rapids,
and seacoast kayaking. Contact them
at www.discoververacruztours.com; tel:
630-274-5341(Bolingbrook, IL).
As for its visitor facilities, one popular
option is staying in the camps installed
by rafting outfitters. Others use Xalapa
as their base, as the drive is less than
one hour. The economy is based largely
on tourism (river rafting) and farming.
Also, see www.mexicosagaz.com.mx for
an excellent overview of eco-adventure
options throughout Veracruz State.
The best time for rafting the rivers of
Veracruz is from August to December,
when water flows at its highest. There
are two main stretches for rafting
near Jalcomulco, with the most thrilling being the 18-km (11 mile) run from
the Pescados Bridge to the Jalcomulco
Bridge. The other is known as the “old
run”, and it begins at the Jalcomulco
Bridge and runs for 18 km (11 miles)
to Paso Limón, for a total of 22 km (13
miles) on its way to Carrizal.
Known since ancient
times as the “place of
noisy birds,” Papantla is
the spiritual heart and
commercial capital of
a broad region know
as the Totonacapan
(from the word Totonaco – the region’s
principle indigenous group). Located
on a hillside in the foothills of the
Totonac Mountains, Papantla about a
five-hour journey from Veracruz City
or four hours from Xalapa (275 km/171
miles). It is renowned for three main
attributes:
U.S.-based Discover Veracruz Tours
offers a “Clouds to Coast Multi-Sport
Adventure Trip that includes a 7,000-
PAPANTLA
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PATANTLA continues
ƒƒ The ancestral homeland for the Totonaco people;
ƒƒ An ideal base for exploring the awe-inspiring
archaeological site of El Tajín;
ƒƒ The vanilla capital of the Americas with related
cultural legacy.
The city’s origins go back to 1230 AD when refugees
from abandoned El Tajín moved a short distance to
the current hillside location. Spanish conquistadores
noticed the large indigenous population with agricultural resources and founded a city in 1530. This makes
Papantla one of the first
cities in the Americas
built by Europeans.
Papantla was (and continues to be) an important center for the area’s
withering Totonac culture. They number
around 450,000 members and are spread across the
mountains of north-central Veracruz and eastern
Puebla State.
Papantla (pop. 80,000) is also a provincial center for
prosperous vanilla bean cultivation, plus banana
fields and surprisingly a plethora of oil wells (hardly
noticeable but for the dozens PEMEX signs that dot
the countryside).
Vanilla was sacred to the Totonacos and its production carefully controlled. As the only edible orchid,
vanilla was used (along with cacao) as a currency and
to pay taxes to the Aztecs of Central Mexico. A vanilla
festival is held each June and you can visit actual
plantations to see centuries-old practices. Note:
Purchase pure, organic liquid vanilla, dried beans and
vanilla liquor for a fraction of the cost back home.
Day or night, the city’s main square (Parque Dr. Israel
Téllez) is bustling and vibrant. A sloped wall facing
the square is adorned with an enormous bas-relief
concrete mural recounting Totonac history (illuminated in the evening). The mural was created by local
artist Teodoro Cano, and represents the evolution
of Totonac culture, including an unusual nod to the
region’s petroleum industry.
The famous “voladores” (flying Indians), seen in
resorts around Mexico, actually originated here, and
can be seen performing almost daily just above the
town square. The dance of Los Voladores alludes
to the sun and calendar. A 28-meter/91-foot steel
pole is used for what is actually a pre-Hispanic har-
Sustainable Tourism Initiatives
Indigenous cooperatives are beginning to
explore eco-tourism opportunities. By supporting these cooperatives you are helping local
community members better their lives, while
experiencing a more personal encounter with
local residents and off-the-beaten-path sites.
The El Remolino Ecotourism Center was
built by the local Totonac community, in conjunction with the National Commission for the
Development of Indigenous People. The reserve
is located on the Carretera (highway) Poza RicaMartinez de la Torre, about 20 minutes outside of
Papantla. The Center offers cabins for overnight
visitors, as well as a restaurant serving local specialties including acamayas (freshwater prawns).
Local guides offer tours of the community’s ecological Reserve for observation of the diverse ;
Continues next page…
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PAPANTLA continues
vest and fertility ritual performed by death-defying
performers.
In pre-Columbian times it was performed in many
regions, but today it only survives among the
Totonacos. Five men, each representing the five elements of the indigenous world, climb atop the pole.
One of them stays on the pole playing a flute and
Sustainable Tourism Initiatives cont.
flora and fauna, including a bat cave. There are
also panga boat tours along the Río Tecolutla,
plus visits to local vanilla plantations where visitors can observe the curing process using timehonored methods. Tel: 52-784-596-8514.
The Parque Ecológico Xanath is designed
to showcase the ideal ecological conditions
for the cultivation of vanilla. Owner, Jose Luis
Hernandez, will show you around his small
hacienda and offers a guided tour
of how vanilla is cultivated. You’ll
also enjoy miradores to view the
countryside and a get a local perspective on life in Veracruz (tel:
52-784-842-3311).
Another option to consider is
the Parque Temático Takilhsukut,
tel. 52-782-821-7088.
Inn (www.fiestainn.com).
dancing while the four descend the pole with a rope
tied to a single foot. The rope unwraps itself 13 times
for each of the four flyers, symbolizing the 52 years in
their calendar.
Adjacent to the square is Papantla’s neoclassic hillside Cathedral of the Assumption. Step inside the
church and you’ll see welcome messages in Totonac,
a language heard throughout this region. Look skyward from about anywhere in the city of Papantla and
you’ll see a towering cement “volador” monument.
Views from here are invigorating, as is the hike from
the main plaza.
Papantla has very limited lodging (two-three star
properties only), and advanced reservations are suggested -- as this is one of two main access points
to nearby El Tajín. Properties include the Posada
Quinta Leones (tel: 52-784-842-6886), Hotel Tajín
(tel: 52-784-842-0121) and Quinta Buganvilias (tel:
52-784-842-1080).
The other gateway option is the city
of Poza Rica, a mere 30 km away, a
“Pueblo Mágico.” Here you’ll find the
five star hotels Poza Rica Inn (www.
pozaricainn.com ) and Hotel Victoria
(www.hotelvictoria.com.mx ) and the
four star Best Western Poza Rica
(www.bwpozarica.com ) and Fiesta
Overall, Papantla lacks the charm of the state’s other
Pueblo Mágico (Coatepec). Museums, dining and
lodging are a bit scarce. However the city’s outlying
attractions and interaction with the Totonaco culture
compensate for these shortcomings. Hopefully, the
town’s recent inclusion in the “Pueblos Mágicos” program will spur improved visitor facilities and some
overall town beautification (both lacking at this time).
EL TAJÍN
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
Located 13 km/8 miles west of Papantla, a visit to
sacred city of El Tajín is one of Mexico’s most enthralling archeological experiences. Designated by
UNESCO as a World Heritage site in 1992, it is the
largest Gulf Coast urban and ceremonial center and
the centerpiece of Veracruz’s 80-century continuum
of human experience.
Only 25 miles from the coast and situated near a
tributary of the Tecolutla River, El Tajín controlled
rich agriculture lands that today reveal sophisticated
ancient waterways. The city had a vast trade network,
and served as an important bridge between Mayan
and Mexican highland civilizations. It ranks as one of
the largest and most important pre-Columbian sites
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EL TAJIN continues
of Mesoamerica, with 168 structures built over hills,
ridges, riverbanks and plains. All this --over an area of
some 2,550 acres makes El Tajín a worthy trek.
The original builders were likely the Huastecs (cousins
of the Mayas), however the site is today more identified with the Totonac culture. The Totonacs have
occupied the site (literally) for centuries, giving El Tajín
its name (“place of thunder”) and actually living at the
site’s entrance until being expelled in the 1990’s.
El Tajín lies among rolling hills covered with wild
vegetation. It remained undiscovered until 1785
when Spanish officials happened upon its jungleshrouded temples, ball courts, plazas and fortifications. Excavation work began in 1934. Several site
characteristics stand out: its oddly positioned structures (aligned as individual units, not part of a rigid
grid), Mayan-influenced architecture, ball courts, the
diminutive scale of its buildings and exquisite stone
carved panels.
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EL TAJIN continues
Historians believe El Tajín was completed by 600 A.D. and saw
its zenith during the years 600-900 AD. What’s unclear is exactly
who occupied the site: Huastecs, Otomí, Totonac, or even, perhaps Mayan. The site has 17 ball courts, decorated with basrelief stone carvings of great craftsmanship and beauty.
Two main areas of the site have been extensively restored:
the lower area containing the most visited structures including ball courts, numerous structures, and the Pyramid of
the Niches (none of which can be climbed) and the upper
area (known as “El Tajín Chico) with it ornately styled structures (with stone mosaic patterns), Mayan-like architectural
elements, and original frescoes.
A Sensational Summit
Each year since 1996, the festival called Cumbre
Tajín (Tajín Summit) is a coming together of cultures,
aimed at restoring and safeguarding Totonac traditions,
dances, and rites. The festival offers visitors a unique
hands-on encounter with one of Mexico’s most interesting indigenous peoples. Over 125,000 people attend
the event each year.
Held in the month of March the event includes a
series of interactive activities such as handicrafts workshops, cooking classes, dance lessons, a wonderful light
and sound shows, music concerts, spiritual classes, and
Veracruz State’s second biggest fiesta (after Carnaval).
www.cumbretajin.com. March 17-21, 2010.
Once inside the park, you’ll see several buildings that appear to have partially “melted” due
to inferior architectural design. Later construction methods got it right, culminating with some
extraordinary buildings. The site’s main feature is
the awesome Pyramid of the Niches. Built on six
tiers with 365 small hollow altars, or niches, the
building has a lacy, almost delicate appearance. It
is only 18 meters (59 feet) tall, yet seems to compete with surrounding mountains for attention.
highways 130 and 180. The ruins of El Tajín lay
between the two cities.
Exploring El Tajín is a memorable adventure. Hire
a guide at the site entrance and take at least a
half-day to explore. There’s a fine on-site museum
and simple cafeteria. The famed “voladores” performances near the park entrance.
Poza Rica is an important commercial center and a
central hub for several road transportation lines. The
downtown provides some shopping and for a great
view, visit the “El Cerro del Abuelo” (Grandfather Hill)
where it’s possible to see the entire city and its “quemadores,” (big petroleum burners) which were used
to light the city in early years.
CITIES NORTH OF
PAPANTLA
POZA RICA
Unlike most Mexican cities, Poza Rica it does not
have old buildings, as it was officially founded in
1951. However no fewer tha 17 large concrete
and painted murals are scattered around the
city’s public and private spaces. As in Papantla,
Teodoro Cano created eight fine works throughout the city.
CASTILLO DE
TEAYO
(21 km northwest of Papantla)
Poza Rica (previously known as Poza Rica de
Hidalgo) means “rich well.” Known for its abundance of oil (which has now been almost completely extracted), this colorful industrial city
(pop. 175,000) is located northwest of Papantla
some 21 km (13 miles) and at the junction of
(69 km north of Papantla)
Castillo de Teayo makes the
entrance to Mexico’s Huasteca
region. Its history dates back
more than 1,200 years. It is 45
km (27 miles) north of Poza Rica
and 68 km (42 miles) southwest from Tuxpan. The
town owes its name to a well-preserved castle-
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NORTH OF PAPANTLA: Castillo de Teayo continues
shaped pyramid in the center of the main square.
The town is built on the pre-Columbian ruins of the
Huastec culture. During the colonial period it was
completely abandoned until the 19th century when
a pyramid was discovered along with various preColumbian stone sculptures. The current town was
built around this enigmatic archeological site and
officially founded in 1870.
The steep pyramid, located in the middle of the
town’s central square, is 11 meters (35 feet) high. It
consists of three overlaid architectural bodies on a
base. A distinct Aztec influence can be observed in
the stairs inside the pyramid, which is unique in constructions of this kind. Today, pre-Columbian sculp-
tures can be admired in the located in the back of the
pyramid, with original pieces mostly representing the
Huastec gods found here and in nearby localities.
remains from pre-Columbian Huastec, Tabuc, Tumilc,
Totonac, and Olmec civilizations. More than 250
pieces are on display.
Nearby, the Spanish legacy is evident in the monumental Iglesia de Santiago Apostol in the town of
Temapache.
Tuxpan is also famous for its historic museum on
the banks of the river. Known as the “Casa de Fidel
Castro”, this unusual museum displays old photographs and belongings commemorating the revolutionary Cubans, led by Fidel Castro (who left Mexico
from here in 1956 to start their campaign against the
dictatorship of Fulgencio Batista).
TUXPAN
(79 km north of Papantla)
Known for its beautiful sunsets
and as the gateway to Huasteca
culture, Tuxpan (population:
80,000) is a place where the river
and the sea come together to
create beautiful landscapes.
A ride around Lake Tempamachoco to observe the
four types of mangrove and the estuaries of Tumilco,
Palma Sola, and Jacome is an interesting option.
And, the lake is ideal for fishing and tasting delicious
dishes at any of the restaurants lining the shore.
It is located northeast of Papantla and some 319
km/191 miles from Veracruz City. This fishing and
oil port is at home on the banks of the Tuxpan River,
just 11 km (6.8 miles) from its mouth on the Gulf of
Mexico. Splendid vegetation and miles of golden
sand and the peaceful waters of the Gulf of Mexico
provide a peaceful respite.
Activities include enjoying beautiful sunsets from
the boardwalk, taking a motorboat ride on the river,
and touring the outlying areas to visit the Regional
Anthropology Museum. The museum showcases
The Archeology Museum of Tuxpan has more than
250 archeological pieces highlighting the artistry and
refinement of the region’s Huastec culture. The Caritas
Sonrientes (“Smiling Faces” - and symbol of this training
course) are an example of the precious Totonac art; the
other sculptures belong to the Huastec culture.
For those looking for more exciting adventures, there
is the Isla de Lobos (Wolf Island), with its incredible reefs, ideal for diving and camping in a peaceful
island setting. Besides the reefs, there are other excellent dive sites that include los Bajos de Tuxpan, En
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NORTH OF PAPANTLA: Tuxpan continues
Medio, and Tanhuijo, with sparkling clear
waters that make it easy to admire the
underwater fauna.
To get an authentic taste of Tuxpan, try
the local dishes. Noted for its Huastec seasoning and traditional recipes, the majority of offerings are based on seafood and
there are plenty of tamal favorites to try.
BACK ON THE
COAST
TECOLUTLA
& THE
COSTA
ESMERALDA
(30 km east of
Papantla)
Named for its deep
green waters and fine
Gulf of Mexico beaches, this is framed
north to south by the Tecolutla and
Nautla Rivers. This might be considered
the State’s leading “beach resort”. Just
don’t expect Puerto Vallarta-like amenities. The focus is one simple seaside relax-
ation with an outing to explore nearby
nature reserves.
This coastal region consists of mostly
deserted shore backed by tropical
hills, lagoons, and fruit plantations.
Stretching along the coast are several
small hotels, restaurants, and trailer
parks. There’s plenty of open space
and very clear, emerald green, gulf
coast water to enjoy.
Some 50 km of lush coast, estuaries,
lagoons and diverse ecosystems make
this a haven for eco-recreation. The city
of Tecolutla (238 km/143 miles) north
of Veracruz City) rests at the mouth of
the Tecolutla River and dates to pre-Hispanic times. It is the Costa Esmeralda’s
main city with some 1,500 hotel rooms
and around 25,000 inhabitants.
This humble town has witnessed
both the 1518 arrival of Spaniard Don
Juan de Grijalva (prior to the arrival
of Cortés), and the disembarkation
of the American Army during the
1847 Mexican American War. Italian
immigrants arrived in the 1850’s to
enrich the area’s existing indigenous
inhabitants.
Explore the nearby estuaries and the
local turtle hatchery. Then enjoy simple
seaside accommodations. Consider these
four star choices:
Azucar: www.hotelazucar.com
Aqua Inn: www.tecolutla.com.mx/aquainn
Continue south to return to
Veracruz City, passing the towns
of Vega de Alatorre, Villa Emiliano
Carranza, Palma Sola, Zempoala
and La Antigua. See Veracruz City
(section II) for details about these
attractions.
Finca Santa Luisa: www.fincasantaluisa.com
Hotel Mansión del Faro:
www.lamansiondelfaro.com.mx
Historical Note
Hotel El Cora: www.tecolutla.com.mx
South from Tecolutla, take the coastal
highway to explore virgin seacoast landscapes. The Cienaga del Fuerte Nature
Reserve is redolent with extraordinary
biodiversity. There are a variety of smallscale (no high rises) hotel facilities, with
different styles and accommodations,
many restaurants and palapas (beachside palm-covered open-air huts) serving
fresh seafood.
Four star properties here include:
Best Western Noray:
www.bestwestern.com/mx/hotelnoray
Casa Esmeralda: Tel: 52-784-848-7006
Hotel Torre Molino:
www.hoteltorremolino.com
At entrance of the village
to Nuatla there is a sign that
tells the story of the Lord of
Nautla, Cuauhpopoca, who
was an Aztec warrior and tax
collector for Moctezuma II.
He was in charge of collecting from the Totonac people of the region. In 1520, he
fought fiercely against Spanish
Captain Juan de Escalante
in the historical battle of the
plains of Nauhtlan. Several
Spaniards will killed. This incident was the pretext that
Hernando Cortés used for taking Moctezuma II prisoner,
which was the beginning of
the end for the Aztec empire.
Villas Cabo Alto: www.caboalto.com
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