Water: why quality matters - Speciality Coffee Association of Europe

Transcription

caféeuropa
THE VOICE OF THE SPECIALITY COFFEE ASSOCIATION OF EUROPE
AUTUMN 2015
PAUL STACK
SCAE’s new President talks growth, succession
and alignment with the SCAA
GOTHENBURG
REPORT
The Champions,
The Products,
The Parties
ISSUE 61
WOMEN IN COFFEE + WATER RESEARCH + ROSS KOPI + COLAB + PERNILLA OLOW-GARD
At Host 2015 we’ve got something
different planned.
We’ll show the latest technologies
and solutions for your coffee
business, plus the workshops
and tasting sessions that we’re
famous for. But we also have
plans to make things better
than ever before.
Come to D16 – E23, Pav 24
and find out how.
DALLACORTE.COM
Inside
ISSUE 61 | AUTUMN 2O15
04 Welcome David Veal details the exciting
activities planned by SCAE this autumn
06 Community The ‘Who’s Who’ of SCAE
10 Update Latest news from Europe’s
coffee community
16 Calendar Dates for your diary
30
18 Product News Hot products from
SCAE members
20 Research Does water quality matter?
SCAE commissioned research to find out
24 BGE Barista Camp is Coming
26 Cover Story Paul Stack discusses
alignment with SCAA and his plans
for his presidency
30 World of Coffee Gothenburg report
24
41 Women in Coffee Women are taking
on more prominent roles in coffee
and the IWCA is there to support them
46 Interview Matthew Ross talks to Andra
Vlaicu about civets, Ross Kopi, and
overcoming kopi luwak’s bad reputation
50 Learning Rashel Winn reports from
CoLab: Prague
54 Q&A We catch up with Pernilla
Olow-Gard, daMatteo Marketing Manager
and Nordic World of Coffee Local
Project Manager
s
Find U
26
10
Online
Read the n
ition o
digital ed m
scae.co
46
54
CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN 2015 | 3
WELCOME
A great time to be
part of our speciality
coffee community
The SCAE team at the Nordic World of Coffee welcome reception
W
ell, wasn’t World of Coffee
in Gothenburg a great
experience? All of us who
were there – and there were
nearly 5,000 of us – had a truly outstanding
week whatever our reasons for attending,
and there were more reasons than ever to
visit the event this year.
We were also able to report at our AGM
held in Gothenburg what a successful
year 2014 was for SCAE, with membership
expanding by 1,600 new members and
our education programme continuing
to grow.
As we all know, World of Coffee moves
to Dublin next year and all of the signs
indicate that it too will be a success. As an
example, we sold 68% of our exhibition
space for Dublin while we were in
Gothenburg.
Moreover, after a very long bidding
process we have recently selected the
venues for the following three World of
Coffees. In 2017 we will go to the beautiful
city of Budapest and we hope to be able
to support and grow our membership in
the east of Europe as a result of this.
The year 2018 will see us head back to
Initiatives planned for the next few months include
delivering sensory training to young people in Rwanda,
offering barista skills training in UK prisons, and supporting
the next Barista & Farmer event at the beginning of 2016,
as well as organising field trips in Brazil and Indonesia
later this year. Keep an eye out also for Barista Camp,
CoLab Paris and our new Roasters’ Guild.
In the last issue of Café Europa I wrote
that the future starts in Gothenburg
so I’d like to talk about the future now.
Most people know that we are talking
to the Specialty Coffee Association of
America (SCAA) regarding the alignment
of our activities and these talks should be
concluded by early next year, at which point
we should have some proposals to share.
4 AUTUMN 2015 | CAFÉ EUROPA
the Netherlands and Amsterdam, a tier one
city, which will make an excellent host for
World of Coffee, and in 2019 we will go to
Berlin which, as most people know, is not
only a vibrant and developing city, but also
has a great speciality coffee culture.
We’re looking to further develop our
education programme in the coming
months, both in terms of content and
David Veal
our quality assurance programme, which
ensures the integrity, transparency and
quality of Coffee Diploma System. We
recently signed a Memorandum of
Understanding with the Coffee Quality
Institute whereby we will work together on
Q grading in Europe and Coffee Diploma
System in producing countries. Allied to
education our research programmes are
taking off and several challenging papers
will be published over the next
few months.
Our new partnership agreement with
Grounds for Health and the International
Women's Coffee Alliance are beginning
to work now and we will continue to
work together with our existing partners,
specifically the Brazilian Specialty Coffee
Association.
We have many other initiatives and
activities happening over the next few
months including delivering sensory
training to young people in Rwanda,
offering barista skills training in UK prisons,
and supporting the next Barista & Farmer
event at the beginning of 2016, as well
as organising field trips in Brazil and
Indonesia later this year. Barista Guild
of Europe will hold its second Camp
in Riccione, Italy in September and the
second CoLab in Paris in November.
Look out soon also for news of our new
Roasters’ Guild.
Finally, for those interested in ibrik
coffee we are currently in the process of
planning the 2016 World Championships
which will be held in Gulfood, Dubai in
February 2016.
At SCAE we constantly seek to add to
and enhance the benefits that we offer
our members and some of the above
activities are just a part of that. It is a
great time, therefore, to be part of our
fantastic speciality coffee community and
there are so many good reasons to be a
member of SCAE. If you’re not a member
already, please join us, and if you are –
invite someone else to join. You can find
out how to become a member on our
website, scae.com.
David Veal
Executive Director
Speciality Coffee Association of Europe
It is that time of the year again...
...when everything around looks,
sounds, smells and tastes better!
2015 Harvesting Season
www.accafe.com.br
[email protected]
SIGNPOST
SCAE BOARD OF DIRECTORS
SCAE EXECUTIVE TEAM
President
Paul Stack (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems
David Veal, Executive Director
Penny Hayward, Personal Assistant to Executive Director
Membership Team
Past President
Cosimo Libardo (Italy), Toby Estates
Vice President
Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece), W.S. Karoulias
Executive Director
David Veal (UK), SCAE
Drewry Pearson (Ireland), Marco Beverage Systems
Nils Erichsen (Germany), Ube Erichsen Beteiliungs
Jayne Richards, Membership Manager
Jackie Malone, Chapter Coordinator
Isa Verschraegen, BGE Coordinator
Alison Wraight, Membership Advisor
Leanne Celentano, Membership Coordinator
Lewis Young, Data Analyst
Lesley Potts, Membership Accounts Clerk
Robyn Stevenson, Membership Administrator
Anna Barlow, Retention Officer
Education Team
Susan Hollins, Education Manager
Annemarie Tiemes, Education Field Manager
Kim Staalman, Education Field Coordinator
Owen Thom, Quality Coordinator
Megan Guo, Asia Coordinator
Aidan Jones, Education Administrator
Kay Bennett, Education Administrator
Alex Morrell, Education Administrator
Events Team
Heinz Trachsel (Switzerland)
Garret Buckley, Events Manager
Jens Henrik Thomsen, Sponsorship Coordinator
Marketing Team
Luigi Morello (Italy), La Cimbali
James Humpoletz, Marketing Manager
Andra Vlaicu, Marketing Assistant
Richard Stiller, Marketing Assistant
Keith Amos, Business Development Executive
Ludovic Maillard (France), Maison Jobin
Operations Team
Johan Damgaard (Sweden), Johan & Nyström
David Hewitt, Operations Manager
Denise Alborough, Senior Accounts Clerk
Ellen Rogers, Accounts Clerk
Caroline Newman, Accounts Clerk
SCAE COMMITTEES
Alberto Polojac (Italy), Imperator
Christina Meinl (Austria), Julius Meinl
Frank Neuhausen (Germany), BWT water+more
Chahan Yeretzian (Switzerland), University of Zurich
Patrizia Cecchi (Italy), Rimini Fiera
James Shepherd (UK/Ireland), Beyond the Bean
Dale Harris (UK), Has Bean
Membership Committee
Yannis Apostolopoulos, Chair
Heinz Trachsel, Vice Chair
Luigi Morello
Tomasz Obracaj
Andrew Tolley
Tibor Hajcsunk
Dale Harris
Isa Verschraegen
David Veal
Jayne Richards
Education Committee
Ludovic Maillard, Chair
Paul Stack
Paul Meikle-Janney
Sonja Björk Grant
David Locker
Edouard Thomas
John Thompson
David Veal
Susan Hollins
Annemarie Tiemes
SCAE COMMUNITY
Events Committee
Patrizia Cecchi, Chair
Willem Husiman
Grace O’Shaughnessy
Anke Erichsen
Brita Folmer
David Veal
Garret Buckley
Marketing Committee
Christina Meinl, Chair
Johan Damgaard
Dale Harris
Maurizio Giuli
Jörg Krahl
David Veal
James Humpoletz
Audit Committee
Nils Erichsen, Chair
Mark Rose
David Veal
David Hewitt
International Development Committee
Alberto Polojac, Chair
Mick Wheeler
Max Fabian
Colin Smith
Angel Mario Martinez Garcia
Inyoung Kim (Anna)
David Veal
Penny Hayward
Research Committee
Chahan Yeretzian, Chair
Morten Munchow, Vice Chair
Frank Neuhausen
Lauro Fioretti
Edouard Thomas
David Veal
Penny Hayward
OTHER SCAE ORGANISATIONS
SCAE President’s Council
President
Paul Stack (Ireland)
Past President
Cosimo Libardo (Italy)
Vice President
Yannis Apostolopoulos (Greece)
Treasurer
Nils Erichsen (Germany)
Executive Director
David Veal (UK)
Drewry Pearson (Ireland)
SCAE Ambassadors
SCAE has named the following
Past Presidents of the Association
as its Ambassadors:
Alf Kramer (Norway)
Patrick Bewley (Ireland)
Mick Wheeler (UK)
Trygve Klingenberg (Norway)
Tomasz Obracaj (Poland)
Colin Smith (UK)
Max Fabian (Italy)
Nils Erichsen (Germany)
Marc Käppelli (Switzerland)
Drewry Pearson (Ireland)
Cosimo Libardo (Italy)
NORWAY
Storm Xaron C Lunde,
e: [email protected]
World Coffee Events
(Jointly Owned By SCAE/SCAA)
POLAND
Tom Obracaj,
Chair - Mike Yung
SCAE Director - David Veal
SCAA Director - Ric Reinhart
Managing Director - Cindy Ludviksen
Treasurer - Drewry Pearson
PORTUGAL
Claudia Pimentel,
ROMANIA
Silvia Constantin,
NATIONAL COORDINATORS
EUROPEAN CHAPTERS
RUSSIA
Andrey Elson,
AUSTRIA
Günter Stölner,
SLOVAKIA
Tomas Callo,
BELGIUM
Kathleen Serdons,
SPAIN
Elisabet Sereno,
BULGARIA
Nikolay Litov,
SWEDEN
Erik Rosendahl
CZECH REPUBLIC
Stepan Neubauer,
SWITZERLAND
Marc Käppeli,
DENMARK
Lene Hyldahl,
TURKEY
Aysin Aydogdu,
FINLAND
Viivi Ahtiainen,
UNITED KINGDOM
Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood,
FRANCE
Patrick Mas,
INTERNATIONAL CHAPTERS
GERMANY
Peter Muschiol,
GREECE
Konstantinos Konstantinopoulos,
HUNGARY
János Szongoth,
ICELAND
Jan-Fredrik Winter,
IRELAND
Alan Andrews,
ITALY
Dario Ciarlantini
LITHUANIA
Darius Vezelis,
NETHERLANDS
Peter Eijl,
SINGAPORE
Ross Bright,
SOUTH KOREA
Seongil Choi,
REGIONAL COORDINATORS
Sonja Grant,
Tibor Hajcsunk,
Heinz Trachsel,
SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE_Community
SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE_Community
SCAE_Community
SCAE
SIGNPOST
Join our coffee community
WE HAVE…
3,000
Members
30
National Chapters
7
World Champions
Publisher: Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE)
635
Editor: Sarah Grennan
Authorised SCAE Trainers
350
Coffee Diplomas Awarded
35,000
Coffee Diploma
System Certificates Issued
17,500
Certified Baristas
17
years' experience inspiring
coffee excellence
Our vision is to be the authority
on delivering coffee excellence.
Our mission is to create and inspire
excellence in the coffee community through
innovation, research,
education and communication.
Our values are excellence, knowledge,
leadership, integrity, communication,
competence, education and community.
Join us and help us raise coffee standards in
Europe and across the world.
Learn more about the benefits
of membership at www.scae.com
or email [email protected]
2014 || CAFÉ
CAFÉ| EUROPA
EUROPA
8 | WINTER
SPRING 2014
2013/2014
NO.
54
No.61 | Autumn 2015
Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bicknacre,
Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, UK
T: + 44 1245 426060 | E: [email protected]
Contributors: Kelle Vandenberg, David Veal, Isa Verschraegen,
Andra Vlaicu, Dr Marco Wellinger, Rashel Winn,
Prof. Chahan Yeretzian
Design: Mark Nally
Printed by: Metro Commercial Printing
© Copyright 2015, Speciality Coffee Association of Europe
Café Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429
Café Europa (Online) ISSN 1752-8437
Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a company limited
by guarantee registered in United Kingdom, Co. Reg. No. 3612500.
Copies of the SCAE by-laws are available by written request.
VAT Reg. No. GB 894 2009 15.
Views expressed in Café Europa do not necessarily represent those
of its Editor, the Communications Committee or the Publisher,
Speciality Coffee Association of Europe.
Articles and contributions by members are invited;
please contact Sarah Grennan, Editor
E: [email protected]
T: + 353 87 686 1272
For rates and information about advertising in Café Europa
please download the SCAE Media Pack at scae.com.
For further details and to book your advertisement,
please contact Keith Amos, Business Development Executive
E: [email protected]
T: +44 1245 426060
Stay Connected:
SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE_Community
SCAE_Community
SCAE_Community
SCAEWorldofCoffee
SCAE
On the Cover
SCAE President, Paul Stack, pictured at Coffeeangel SAS, Dublin.
Image: Jason Clarke. Special thanks to Karl Purdy for allowing
Café Europa to take over his café on a busy afternoon in Dublin.
SIGNPOST
UPDATE
Celebrate the World’s
Best Beverage
on International
Coffee Day
The 74 member states of the International Coffee Organisation (ICO),
together with 26 coffee associations around the world – including SCAE –
are joining forces to celebrate the first ever International Coffee Day
this autumn.
On Thursday, 1 October, coffee lovers
around the world can come together
to celebrate the world’s best-loved
beverage.
The first International Coffee Day,
organised by the ICO, will champion
the coffee sector’s diversity, quality
and passion, and will provide coffee
aficionados with an opportunity to
support the millions of farmers around the
world whose livelihoods depend on this
popular bean.
SCAE has got behind the event,
creating a logo and posters for members
to display in their cafés and premises,
and the Association is encouraging the
community to reach out to consumers on
this very special day.
‘The event provides you with a
great opportunity to creatively engage
with your customers and encourage
them to celebrate the day with you,’
explains David Veal, SCAE’s Executive
Director.
Ideas include:
•
‘Buy one, get one free’ or
‘buy a second cup for a cent’
promotions
•
Raising coffee seedlings and
giving them away for free or
for a nominal price on the day
•Selling coffee-related jewellery
or merchandise
•
Inviting your local radio station to
broadcast from your business.
SCAE’s marketing team are gearing up
for the occasion, planning a busy social
media campaign to celebrate the first ever
International Coffee Day. ‘We would love
to hear what our members have planned
for the day,’ says James Humpoletz, SCAE
Marketing Manager. ‘Let us know how you
will celebrate and we will do our best to
help publicise it.’
The Association is planning a series of
events across Europe to mark the occasion.
Stay tuned to scae.com for more information
and email [email protected] to order
your free coffee poster.
To order your free International Coffee Day poster
please email [email protected]
EVENT GUIDE
1 OCTOBER
#INTERNATIONALCOFFEEDAY
SCAE and CQI Partner on Coffee Education
As part of its mission to inspire coffee
excellence across the globe, SCAE has
reached an agreement to partner with the
Coffee Quality Institute (CQI) on a number
of key educational initiatives.
SCAE President, Paul Stack, and Executive Director, David Veal, sign
the Memorandum of Understanding with the Coffee Quality Institute
The Association agreed a Memorandum
of Understanding in July which will see it
work with the CQI in Europe, Africa and
Asia.
Under the terms of the Memorandum,
SCAE and CQI will work together to
promote and manage CQI’s Q Grader
Training Programme in Europe. This
includes, but is not limited to, CQI’s Pre-Q,
calibrations and Q courses, including the Q
Robusta programmes.
SCAE will only use CQI approved Q
Instructors to deliver all Q educational
programmes and, in a preliminary pilot
phase, SCAE will work with a group of
core Q Instructors to help them become
AST's as quickly as possible. When feasible,
CQI and SCAE will cooperate on specific
projects at origin, mainly in Africa and Asia,
where the Q Instructors can also deliver
SCAE modules and certification.
SCAE has agreed to utilise SCAA
Certified Teaching Labs for all Q Courses
when such labs exist in Europe, while CQI
will endeavour to develop programmes
and funding sources jointly with SCAE,
particularly technical courses at origin.
The two organisations will appoint an
Educational Development Liaison officer to
harmonise and align training activities and
course programming.
‘This agreement will provide significant
benefits to our members, offering greater
access to Q educational programmes
in Europe and allowing us to work
closely with our CQI partners at origin,’
explains David Veal. ‘Our mission is
to inspire coffee excellence through
education, research and innovation,
and
this
new
Memorandum
of
Understanding is another great step to help
us achieve that.’
UPDATE
Stands Selling Out at
World of Coffee Dublin
Over 70% of the exhibition space available at next year’s World of Coffee event
in Dublin has sold and the organisers are reporting strong demand for
the remaining stands.
Dublin is getting ready to welcome the global coffee community next June. Will you be there? Image: Fáilte Ireland
Bookings for the event in the Irish capital,
which will also feature the 2016 World
Barista Championship and World Brewers
Cup, opened at the Nordic World of Coffee
in Gothenburg where exhibitors quickly
snapped up 68% of the available stands.
‘We were delighted with the response from
our existing exhibitors in Gothenburg, many
of whom have already signed up to join us in
Dublin next year,’ says David Veal, Executive
Director of SCAE. ‘The fact that so many coffee
community suppliers return to the event year
after year is a testament to its success. We are
also hugely excited to see a number of new
exhibitors joining us for the first time at World
of Coffee in Dublin. Plans for next year’s show
are already at an advanced stage and we are
confident that it is going to be the biggest event
in World of Coffee’s history.’
World of Coffee is SCAE’s flagship event,
bringing thousands of coffee professionals
together for a three-day celebration of
coffee each June. The event moves to a
different European city each year and this
August SCAE announced the host cities for
2017-2019. In 2017, World of Coffee goes to
Budapest, in 2018 it will be held in Amsterdam
and in 2019 the event moves to Berlin.
‘We are pleased and excited that after
such a strong tender process, we can now
announce our host cities for the next three
years,’ comments David. ‘The response from
the successful cities has been overwhelming,
with guarantees that the World of Coffee
Europe event will be able to continue
growing as one of the world’s best speciality
coffee shows.
‘Having seen some excellent potential host
cities throughout this process, we are very
happy with our final choices. It demonstrates
the true character and determination of the
speciality coffee community that we are
able to take World of Coffee to an Eastern
European country for the first time, and we
have no doubt that SCAE members over
the world will be delighted with the cultural
diversity our chosen cities reflect.’
World of Coffee is being hosted in
Amsterdam for the first time, and in the
Netherlands for only the second time. It will also
be Berlin’s first opportunity to host the show.
‘We would like to express our sincere
thanks and appreciation for all the cities that
entered a bid to host our World of Coffee
event, and hope that we can count on their
support in future years when we re-open the
tender process for hosting the event in 2020
and beyond,’ David Veal added. ‘The next
step is to decide which competitions we will
take to these three events, and this decision
will be made in the next few months.’
To keep up to date with the latest news
on World of Coffee and to download
the brochure and floorplan, please visit
worldofcoffee-dublin.com.
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CAFÉ EUROPA | AUTUMN
| 11
10.04.15 2015
14:43
UPDATE
Meet, Learn,
Develop and
Grow as a
BGE Member
ISA VERSCHRAEGEN explains why
Barista Guild of Europe (BGE) needs
your vote this autumn.
From the outset BGE has been an
organisation formed of baristas within a
community, hoping to extend the reach
and opportunities to a wider group.
From our very first conversations
about what the group could be, ideas of
democracy, inclusivity, and representation
have been raised.
At our first event (Barista Camp 2014 in
Athens), the Working Group presented a vision
to see us through the course of the next year,
of which a key point was to create a structure
for the leadership of BGE that allowed
members to choose its future direction.
This raised a number of challenges,
starting with ‘Who are our members?'
As we thought deeper and longer about
where we needed to go, we saw questions
about ownership, leadership, finance,
elections, and structure, all of which
became paramount to answer.
We are pleased to say that with a great
deal of help, we think we have. Our ‘bylaws’ are now publicly available on our
website. We’ve crafted these intentionally
to give clarity and structure for our future,
but freedom for our membership to decide
where and what that future is.
The creation and release of these bylaws bring us to a couple of key points that
we'd like to discuss with you: Elections and
Membership!
Working Group Elections
As of this moment, the working group
of BGE is made up of a small group of
volunteers who got in touch because
they wanted to be involved in seeing this
initiative grow. We want the next working
group to be made up of people who want
to drive it to its next stage, chosen by the
members it hopes to serve.
From 23 September to 9 October we’ll
be holding elections that allow members to
choose who sits in the working group of BGE
over 2016. Until 15 September, interested
candidates can send in their nomination
presenting themselves and the direction in
which they would like BGE to move.
Membership
BGE and its activities are designed to
build community regardless of location
Put your hand up for BGE. Vote in the elections from 23 September
to 9 October. Image: Jordan Sanchez
or membership of any organisation, but in
order to make a voting system work, we
need to have a system of determining what
makes a member and what allows them
to vote.
BGE was created by SCAE to serve the
needs of a core area of its membership:
the barista community. SCAE realised that
a vehicle that allowed baristas themselves
to determine the scope and activities of
this organisation would assist the growth
of a stronger coffee community. While our
event financing comes from sponsorship
and ticket revenue, our operational costs are
funded from SCAE's membership budget.
As such, all SCAE members belong and
are entitled to exercise a right to vote in BGE
elections. However, there is a challenge in
managing this membership, as individuals
working for SCAE member companies
don’t necessarily get communicated with
directly or have access to SCAE login
information.
Therefore, we have set the following
criteria to determine BGE membership:
•If you, personally, are a SCAE member
(Barista/Professional Individual
categories), your BGE membership is
included in your SCAE membership.
•If you currently work for a SCAE
company member, you can
personally register to become a
voting member of BGE, at an annual
administration cost of €10.
•If you are not yet a member
of SCAE and would like to join
BGE, registering for SCAE barista
membership for €75 is equivalent
to BGE membership.
We're excited that we can give our
members a true voice in our organisation!
Find
out
more
information
on
baristaguildofeurope.com.
Indonesia was the official country producer sponsor at the
Nordic World of Coffee. SCAE is continuing its partnership with
the Indonesian Embassy and the Speciality Coffee Association of
Indonesia by embarking on a field trip to Banda Aceh this November
Visit Sumatra with SCAE
Following successful field trips to Honduras
and Brazil, SCAE is heading to Indonesia’s
Banda Aceh region for its third tour of 2015.
Running from 15 to 23 November, the trip
will include visits to farms and coffee processing
plants, plus plenty of coffee cuppings.
The trip, organised with the help of the
Indonesian Embassy and the Speciality
Coffee Association of Indonesia, is a
once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to visit the
beautiful coffee plantations of Sumatra.
Just 20 places are available on the trip,
which costs €650 (excluding flights). To
find out more and to register your interest
contact SCAE’s Field Trip Coordinator,
Colin Smith, at colin.smith@smithcoffee.
co.uk or Jayne Richards, Membership
Manager, at [email protected].
UPDATE
New Partnership with daMatteo Named
Grounds for Health ‘Café of the Year’
SCAE has signed a Memorandum of Understanding with Grounds
for Health, the non-governmental organisation which is dedicated
to the prevention of cervical cancer in developing countries.
‘We're thrilled to be a partner of choice for SCAE,’ said Guy
Stallworthy, CEO and President of Grounds for Health, at the
signing of the agreement at the Nordic World of Coffee in June.
‘Foundational social issues, such as women’s healthcare,
contribute to the resiliency of coffee-growing communities and,
therefore, the future of the supply chain. We’re looking forward to
working with the SCAE leadership and its members on projects
that reinforce the important role of women at origin.’
The three-year collaboration, which commenced in July,
will focus on programmes to increase visibility and financial
support for Grounds for Health’s work, mutually reinforce each
organisation’s mission and expand Grounds for Health’s reach
and impact delivering cervical cancer screening and treatment
services to women in the coffeelands. The two organisations will
work together to identify projects that reflect their shared interest
in supply chain sustainability and commitment to improving
farmers’ quality of life.
daMatteo’s café in Magasinsgatan, Gothenburg has been named
Sweden's Café of the Year by White Guide Cafés.
The café , owned by Matts Johansson, topped a poll of Sweden’s
316 best cafés which are selected for providing experiences
‘beyond the ordinary’, says the Guide.
daMatteo impressed judges by creating ‘a meeting place for
everyone with heart, expertise and a high level of service, where
both home roasted coffee and pastries from their own bakery are
of an extremely high quality’.
daMatteo’s Magasinsgatan
ECONOMY
ECOLOGY
ECOBOILER
Guy Stallworthy, CEO and President of Grounds for Health, signs the Memorandum of Understanding
with David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE at the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg
In the next 15 years, it is estimated that six million women
will die from cervical cancer, despite the fact that it can be
easily prevented. Nearly 90% of these deaths will occur in lowand middle-income countries. ‘We know there are more than
750 million women in the developing world who would benefit
from our life-saving services. Our work with the European coffee
community creates a tremendous opportunity to help us reach
more of those women,’ said Guy.
Since the organisation was founded in 1996, Grounds for Health
has screened more than 53,000 and treated more than 3,200
women living in coffee growing communities in Latin America
and Africa. Currently, Grounds for Health supports programmes in
Ethiopia, Nicaragua and Peru.
MARCOBEVERAGESYSTEMS.COM
[email protected]
or call +353 (0)1 295 2674
In its quest to support women in coffee, SCAE also signed a
Memorandum of Understanding with the International Women’s
Coffee Alliance at World of Coffee. See page 40 for more
information the partnership and the work of the IWCA.
UPDATE
New CoffeeMind
Academy to Train ASTs
Morten Münchow has launched a new CoffeeMind Academy in Copenhagen
Morten Münchow, the trainer, consultant, researcher and Vice
Chair of the SCAE Research Committee, has expanded his
CoffeeMind consultancy business this autumn with the launch of
his new CoffeeMind Academy.
Morten, who was one of the creators behind SCAE’s hugely
popular Coffee Diploma System, has noticed an increased demand
for Authorised SCAE Trainers (ASTs) in Europe and has developed
the Academy to help train and certify new ASTs.
‘The Coffee Diploma System has been so successful and there
has been such a huge appetite for courses that there is currently
a bottleneck for ASTs, especially in the Roasting, Green Coffee
and Sensory Skills modules,’ he tells Café Europa. ‘We are focusing
on training new trainers at the CoffeeMind Academy and hope to
inspire a new generation of coffee educators.’
Located in Copenhagen, the new CoffeeMind Academy
provides a training service alongside Morten’s well-established
consultancy business. As well as Sensory, Roasting and Green
Coffee training and certification from SCAE’s Coffee Diploma
System, CoffeeMind Academy provides Sensory Performance
training, where sensory scientist Ida Steen can evaluate cuppers’
performances and tailor specific training programmes to undertake
ahead of SCAE or Q grader exams.
Other services on offer at CoffeeMind include an online onehour consultancy, providing assistance for startups on a number
of topics, including business plans, budgets, workspace, workflow,
quality control, green coffee selection, roast profiling and more,
plus a Lean Startup programme, where roaster startups can work
with CoffeeMind at Kontra’s roaster in Copenhagen to produce
and test new product ranges.
Morten will also continue to hold Foundation and Intermediate
Roasting courses at London School of Coffee, where he has been
training since 2007.
For more information on CoffeeMind Academy, visit
coffee-mind.com.
Gain Insight into World Competition Judging
Do you have ambitions to become a coffee championship judge?
Would you like to know what judges look for when adjudicating
at competitions?
World Coffee Events is staging a series of education modules
in Europe and Asia to provide competition training for aspiring
judges, national judges, competitors, or anyone interested in
understanding how a competition is judged.
The World Competition Education Programme (WCEP) modules
provide insight into rules and regulations, score sheets, judges’ stage
behaviour and detail the competencies that are tested in WCE’s
Judging Certification. Upcoming WCEPs modules include:
9-13 October, St Petersburg, Russia
17-21 October, Milan, Italy
17-20 November, Jakarta, Indonesia
25-29 November, Copenhagen, Denmark
7-11 December, Athens, Greece
To find out more email
Annemarie Tiemes,
[email protected].
Share
Your News
Have you a story to tell?
Share your news with SCAE.
Email [email protected]
Judges score Caleb Cha at the World Latte Art Championship in Gothenburg
SIGNPOST
REMEMBER WHEN VIDEO GAMES WERE GOOD
AND BRAZILIAN COFFEE WAS NOT?
Daterra farms have taken excellence to the next level.
2015 CROP COMING SOON!
For information and samples contact:
www.drwakefield.com | www.fincasdecafe.es
DIARY
Autumn Event Guide
SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER
11-13 September
1 October
14-16 October
Dublin Coffee & Tea Festival
Dublin, Ireland
dublincoffeefestival.com
International Coffee Day
Global
ico.org
Hosfair Shenzhen
Shenzen, China
szhosfair.com
20-27 September
30 September01 October
15-18 October
SCAE Field Trip
Brazil
scae.com
ICO Global Coffee Forum
Milan, Italy
ico.org
Biannual IWCA International
Convention
Bogotá, Colombia
womenincoffee.org
23-26 September
30 September02 October
15-18 October
Barista Camp
Riccione, Italy
baristaguildofeurope.com/bc15/
SCAJ Conference & Expo
Tokyo, Japan
scajconference.jp
Expospeciales Café de Colombia
Bogotá, Colombia
expoespeciales.com
24 September
Allegra World Coffee Portal
CEO Forum
New York, USA
worldcoffeeportal.com
01-03 October
22-25 October
World Tea & Coffee Expo
Mumbai, India
worldteacoffeeexpo.com
Istanbul Coffee Festival
Istanbul, Turkey
istanbulcoffeefestival.com
24-26 September
05-08 October
25-27 October
Coffeena
Cologne, Germany
euvend-coffeena.com
PIR Expo
Moscow, Russia
pirexpo.com
Host Milano
Milan, Italy
host.fieramilano.it
06-09 October
27-29 October
4th International Coffee
& Cocoa Festival & Exhibition
Tehran, Iran
coffeexiran.com
Speciality Fine Food Fair & UAE
National Ibrik Championships
Dubai, UAE
speciality.ae
25-27 September
New York Coffee Festival
New York, USA
newyorkcoffeefestival.com
E
F
E
F
!
O
C
F
O
E
T
S
A
T
L
A
E
R
E
H
T
R
FO
Perfect coffee from the only ECBC
approved single cup brewer!
www.technivorm.com
PRODUCT NEWS
Java Republic
Flies High
Irish roaster, Java Republic, celebrated
two big wins with customers and
critics recently.
The company landed a contract to supply speciality coffee and
tea on board Aer Lingus’ short haul routes in June. Passengers
can now enjoy freshly ground coffee from Java Republic which
is sealed at the bottom of individual cups for freshness.
‘I’m proud that this partnership is allowing us to put our
fresh, hand-roasted, coffee within reach of more people and
thus giving them the opportunity to taste the quality coffee
experience that we have carefully hand-crafted in our very
own roastery in Dublin,’ said Grace O’Shaughnessy, Managing
Director, Java Republic.
While the coffee took to the sky during the summer, the Java
Republic team also celebrated winning 10 stars at the UK’s
Great Taste Awards. Accolades include three stars for its single
origin, light roast Rwandan Nyungwe Coffee, plus two stars for
the Organic Wild Berry Infusion Tea, and one star awards for
the company’s Pedra Redonda Coffee, Ponto Alegre Coffee,
Organic Jasmine Green Tea, Organic Peppermint Tea and
Organic Irish Breakfast Tea.
Grace commented: ‘To win the only three stars in Ireland
this year was wonderful news, but we are over the moon to
win seven awards and a total of 10 stars and it’s a testament to
the quality and variety of our product range of which we are
immensely proud. The win this year brings our total company
awards to over 130 and we’re not finished yet!’
Mike Rutter, Chief Commercial Officer, Aer Lingus and Grace O’Shaughnessy, Managing Director, Java
Republic, are pictured with Aoife, a member of the Aer Lingus cabin crew, at the announcement that Java
Republic will supply coffee on-board the Irish air carrier
Share Your News
Email your
brand stories to
[email protected]
See more from Java Republic at javarepublic.com
Move Over Splurty,
Say Hello to SP9
The SP9 was a big hit on the Marco
Beverage Systems stand at the Nordic
World of Coffee, but what’s with the name?
Initially introduced as FAZE9, the single serve brewer which
launched in February now goes by the streamlined title, SP9,
in homage to its predecessor, the popular Splurty prototype.
Marco’s Commercial Director, James Healy, explains:
‘As you know Marco introduced a new single cup brewer at CATEX
Dublin and Internorga, Hamburg. The coffee community that had
been familiar with project “Splurty” have since been pleading with
us to retain the name. As Commercial Director for Marco it is my
privilege to travel the world and to interact with a wide crosssection of interesting people within the coffee industry.
‘Since the launch of FAZE9 we have seen a huge amount of
excitement and goodwill from many people in anticipation of
what we were doing. However it has come as a surprise how
many people were attached to the prototype name “Splurty”,
which was the forerunner of FAZE9. As such I feel that a nod to
the hard work and dedication that went into moulding “Splurty”
into such an amazing product is in order. We have listened to
suggestions and agreed on a compromise whereby FAZE9 will be
called SP9 from now on.’
So there you have it. You can find out more at
marcobeveragesystems.com.
CE53 Direct Trade v_02FIN 13-05-13_Cafe Europa 15/05/2013 07:29 Page 23
PRODUCT NEWS
New
Cropster
Platform
for COE
Alliance for Coffee Excellence
(ACE) has announced that it
will use Cropster Hub as the
auction platform for Cup of
Excellence, beginning with
the 2016 competitions.
As well as supporting the auction of award-winning Cup of
Excellence coffees, the platform will also provide a new sales
channel for coffees that reach the final week of the competitions
but do not make it to auction.
The new platform, scheduled to launch later this year, will
support a cupping form app for jurors at all COE competitions,
and will also provide data for farmers and buyers, including
moisture and water activity measurements, warehouse
storage information, jury scoring data and COE suggested
roasting profiles.
‘Making the valuable physical and sensory data collected during
the competition available to farmers is a huge priority for ACE, and
we are committed to developing a feedback system that will allow
producers to receive tremendous added benefit from participation
in the programme,’ said Geoff Watts of Intelligentsia, Chair of the
ACE Board of Directors. ‘We are equally excited about our improved
ability to deliver more detailed farm information and coffee quality
data to COE members and auction participants.’
Read more about Cropster Hub at cropster.com/hub.
Everything You Always
Wanted to Know
About Coffee
Analysis, consulting, courses and R&D on coffee
COMPANY WITH QUALITY MANAGEMENT
SYSTEM CERTIFIED BY DNV
= ISO 9001:2008 =
…we can tell you
Our experienced technicians and researchers,
working in our up-to-the-minute physical and
chemical analysis laboratory, can provide a quality
reference point for the world of coffee. Demus
Lab’s knowhow doesn’t only give you the means
to perfect your roasting, grinding and packing.
In fact, Demus Lab can help you improve all the
stages of your production cycle, and our research
into the most fragrant and aromatic new blends
can boost the quality of your product, too. Thanks
to our wide network of coffee experts, we can
offer complete training, from selecting the best
green coffee and achieving the ideal coffee tastes,
to custom-designed courses on espresso tailored
to specific client needs.
In short, Demus Lab has the best answers to all
your questions about coffee.
Area Science park - ed.E3
Padriciano 99 - 34012 Trieste
tel. +39 0403755466
fax +39 0403755467
[email protected]
www.demuslab.it
RESEARCH
WHY DOES
WATER
QUALITY
WHY QUALITY MATTERS
MATTER?
WATER:
S
peciality coffee depends on a combination of factors
that influences overall flavour profile. Variables such as
But there
is onemethod,
factor that
is degree,
becoming
an size,
increasingly
processing
roast
grind
temperature,
important
consideration
fortime
the industry
a whole
and
pressure,
and extraction
all play a as
vital
role in –the
that isresult
water.
Or to
beBut
more
exact,
water
quality.
sensory
in the
cup.
there
is one
factor
that isGiven
becoming
an that
increasingly
important
consideration
the industry
as a
the main
constituent
of brewedfor
coffee
is somewhere
whole
–
and
that
is
water.
Or
to
be
more
exact,
water
quality.
between 98 to 99% water, the rest being the mass of soluble
Given that
main
constituent
brewed
somewhere
brewedthe
solids
extracted,
theofquality
ofcoffee
H2O inisthe
brew
between 98 to 99% water, the rest being the mass
of soluble
can truly mean the difference between a ‘good’ and
brewed solids extracted, the quality of H2O in the brew can truly
‘great’
coffee. between a ‘good’ and ‘great’ coffee.
mean
the difference
While there is overwhelming anecdotal evidence that supports
is little
overwhelming
anecdotal
evidence
thatarea so
thisWhile
view, there
there is
published scientific
research
in the
thiswe
view,
there
is little published
research
far.supports
So, how do
begin
to quantify
the impactscientific
of water quality
from
a sensory
perspective?
in the
area so
far. So, how do we begin to quantify the
In
a bid to
this question,
Speciality
Coffee Association
impact
of address
water quality
from athe
sensory
perspective?
of Europe (SCAE) brought together a team of experts at the Centre
for Analytical & Physical Chemistry in Zurich, Switzerland, to provide
In a bid to address this question, the Speciality Coffee
some scientific clarity on how differing water compositions had an
Association
of Europe
(SCAE)quality
brought
together
a team
of
impact
on the coffee’s
perceived
on the
cupping
table. The
experts atwere
the designed,
Centre forconducted
Analyticaland
andthe
Physical
Chemistry
experiments
results analysed
by in
Zurich,Wellinger
Switzerland,
provide
someof
scientific
clarity on how
Dr Marco
from to
Zurich
University
Applied Sciences.
differing water compositions had an impact on the coffee’s
Which
Coffee?
perceived
quality on the cupping table. The experiments
Two
freshly
roastedconducted
coffees were
for the
researchby Dr.
were designed,
andchosen
the results
analysed
experiment:
Marco Wellinger from Zurich University of Applied Sciences.
1)Colombian washed-process caturra and castillo from La
Argelia farm, grown at an altitude of 1580-1900 m.
2)Brazilian natural-process yellow bourbon, tupi, icatu, and
yellow catuai from Lagoa Formosa grown in the Minas Gerais
region at an altitude of 1000-1200 m.
Which Water?
Three types of water were chosen for the analysis. Based on the
SCAE/SCAA target standard water recommendation range, a low
(soft), medium and high (hard) mineral content water type were used.
WHICH COFFEE?
Two freshly roasted coffees were chosen for the research
experiment:
1) Colombian washed-process caturra and castillo from
La Argelia farm, grown at an altitude 1580-1900 m.
2) Brazilian natural-process yellow bourbon, tupi, icatu,
and yellow catuai from Lagoa Formosa grown in the
Minas Gerais region at an altitude of 1000-1200 m.
WHICH WATER?
Three types of water were chosen for the analysis. Based
on the SCAE/SCAA target standard water recommendation
range, a low (soft), medium and high (hard) mineral content
water type were used.
160
Zurich
tap water
140
120
100
Calcium hardness / mg CaCO3 eq * L-1
As part of a number of research
projects commissioned by SCAE,
researchers at the Centre for
Analytical & Physical Chemistry
in Zurich University investigated
INTRODUCTION
how the quality of water can
impact coffee’s flavour profile.
SPECIALITY
COFFEE
DEPENDS
The
research
was led
by ON
A COMBINATION OF FACTORS THAT
DR
MARCO WELLINGER
and PROFILE.
INFLUENCES
OVERALL FLAVOUR
PROF.
CHAHAN
YERETZIAN
VARIABLES
SUCH AS
PROCESSING METHOD,
DEGREE,
GRIND SIZE, TEMPERATURE,
ofROAST
the Zurich
University
PRESSURE,
AND
EXTRACTION TIME ALL
of Applied Sciences
A VITAL ROLE IN THE SENSORY RESULT
inPLAY
Wädenswil,
Switzerland.
IN THE CUP.
High
80
Medium
60
Low
Filter at zero bypass
40
20
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
Alkalinity / mg CaCO3 eq * L-1
All three waters used were within the SCAE/SCAA recommended range.
160
RESEARCH
What is the Water Standard?
The coffee industry uses guidelines on the ideal extraction for
coffee. SCAE/SCAA’s water standard outlines the acceptable
range of mineral content, alkalinity, total dissolved solids (TDS),
pH value, calcium/sodium content and odour/colour qualities
that are recommended for brewing speciality coffee.
The different water compositions were obtained using an ion
exchange filter which reduces the total hardness and alkalinity in
equal amounts. Since alkalinity is considered to be critical to the
perception of acidity in coffee, it was decided to limit the variation
of it to +/- 50% of the recommended SCAE/SCAA target.
Who Was Involved?
An expert panel of four coffee professionals evaluated two coffees
and three different water types. The coffees were prepared in a
blind cupping session according to an amended SCAA cupping
protocol. Fragrance, uniformity and clean cup scores were not
evaluated but sweetness was added and evaluated on a scale of
1-10. The cuppers each evaluated the coffee extracted with the
three different waters, and repeated three times. Significance
differences were based on 95% confidence intervals. In order
to ensure that the cup profile was interpreted consistently, only
cuppers with a relative standard deviation of less than 5% for three
blind repetitions of the same sample would be included in the
analysis. This led to the elimination of one cupper.
The coffee was evaluated against the following attributes:
• Aroma: Orthonasal odour of the coffee during the break and,
to a minor extent, after removing the foam
•
Flavour: Combined perception of taste and retronasal odour
of a coffee, making up its principal character
•
Aftertaste: Duration, intensity and quality of the flavour from
the back of the palate after swallowing
•
Acidity: Combination of quality and intensity of the sensory
perception of acids – one of the quickest sensory impressions
during tasting •
Body: Sensory perception of mouthfeel determined by viscosity
and texture of the brew (e.g. fats/oils and very fine particles) •
Balance: Degree of harmony between flavour, aftertaste,
acidity and body – especially at high attribute intensities, small
differences result in strong imbalance
•
Sweetness: Sensory perception of a sweet taste or the degree
roundness
and compositions
fullness
Theofdifferent
water
were obtained using an
•
verall: Integrated
score
reflecting
the
sensory
ionOexchange
filter which
reduces
thehow
totalpleasant
hardness
and
impression was, and in respect of origin, varietal
alkalinity in equal amounts. Since alkalinity is considered
and processing method. »
WHAT IS THE WATER STANDARD?
The water with the lowest values
Thefor
coffee
industry uses
guidelinesconsistently
on the ideal extraction
hardness,
alkalinity,
gave for
coffee. SCAE/SCAA’s water standard outlines the acceptable
theofhighest
scoresalkalinity,
– suggesting
thatsolids
this
range
mineral content,
total dissolved
(TDS), pH value,
content
odour/colour
typecalcium/sodium
of water leads
to aand
better
qualities that are recommended for brewing speciality coffee.
cup quality overall.
Characteristic
Target
to be critical to the perception of acidity in coffee, it
was decided to limit the variation of it to +/- 50% of the
recommended SCAE/SCAA target.
Acceptable range
Odour1
Clean/Fresh, odour free
Colour2
Clear colour
Total chlorine
0 mg/L
TDS3
150 mg/L
75 - 250 mg/L
Calcium hardness
4 grains or 68 mg/L
1 - 5 grains or 17 mg/L - 85 mg/L
Total alkalinity
40 mg/L
At or near 40 mg/L
pH
7.0
6.5 to 7.5
Sodium
10 mg/L
At or near 10 mg/L
1. Odour is based on sensory olfactory determination
2. Colour is based on sensory visual determination
3. TDS measure based on a 4-4-2 conversion: 1 µS *cm-1 EC = 0.7 mg*L-1 TDS
RESEARCH
How did the Coffees and Different Water Types Compare?
In all cases where a significant difference in scores was observed,
the highest was attributed to the coffee samples brewed using low
mineral content water, with the lowest hardness. Beside significant
differences, there was also a trend for low mineral content water
scoring highest for the majority of sensory attributes. Across the
spectrum, the Colombian scored higher than the Brazilian coffee.
Prof. Chahan Yeretzian, Chairman of the SCAE Research
Committee and Head of the Centre for Analytical & Physical
Chemistry, says that the research underlines how important
water type is for the coffee industry and its role in ensuring
that speciality coffee can achieve its full potential when
complemented by a range of other factors. The research findings
add further weight to the discussion in the speciality coffee
community about why water quality matters.
‘The results indicate how differences in water type alone can
move a coffee’s cupping scores into, or out of, the “speciality”
bracket. From a scientific perspective, these findings strengthen
our understanding of the important role that water quality
can
Low
play in influencing a particular coffee’s flavour profile,’ concludes
Medium
Prof. Chahan Yeretzian.
HOW DID THE COFFEES AND DIFFERENT WATER
TYPES
COMPARE?
HOW DID
THE COFFEES AND DIFFERENT WATER
TYPES COMPARE?
HOW DID THE COFFEES AND DIFFERENT WATER
TYPES COMPARE?
Conclusion
In all cases where a significant difference in scores was
The
results show
the impact
water quality
on samples
a coffee’s
observed,
the highest
was that
attributed
to the has
coffee
flavour
profile.
all mineral
the attributes
evaluated;
flavour,
brewed
usingOf
low
content
water, with
the acidity,
lowest
balance
andBeside
overall
scoring
were
the most significantly
affected.
In
all cases
wheresignificant
a significant
difference
in scores
hardness.
differences,
there
was was
also
The waterthe
with
the lowest
values for hardness,
alkalinity,
observed,
highest
was
attributed
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the
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samples
a trend for low mineral content water scoring highest for
consistently
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High
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was the CLICK FOR MORE: The full research report is available for download on
a
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SIGNIFICANT
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morehardness.
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SIGNIFICANT
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5.50
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5.00attributes of flavour, acidity, balance and overall show a significant difference.
Aroma
Flavour
Aftertaste
Acidity
Body
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
Balance
Sweetness
Overall
SIGNPOST
BGE
Get Ready for
Barista Camp
Would you like to learn, share ideas, make new friends and catch up with old ones,
all while relaxing in the sunny idyll of the Italian Riviera? Then make sure you don’t miss
the second annual Barista Camp, organised by Barista Guild of Europe,
which takes place in Riccione, Italy, this 23-26 September.
L
aunched at World of Coffee Rimini
2014, the first European Barista
Camp was one of the biggest hits of
the coffee calendar last year when
it attracted baristas from across the coffee
community to the sunny climes of Greece.
This year, Barista Guild of Europe
(BGE) is returning to the Adriatic coast,
bringing the second annual Barista Camp
to Riccione, 15km south of Rimini, where
baristas can enjoy professional education,
cutting-edge lectures, tastings and lots of
fun, over four busy days.
Taking place at Hotel Corallo, this
year’s Camp includes an expanded
educational programme with no less than
five educational tracks. Based on industry
standards provided by SCAE’s Coffee
Diploma System, participants can choose
from:
• Raphael — Barista Foundation
and Sensory Foundation
• Michelangelo — Green Foundation
and Sensory Foundation
• Leonardo — Barista Intermediate
• Donatello — Brewing Intermediate
• Splinter — Sensory Intermediate
The tracks cater for baristas with
diverse skill levels and interests and
include optional certification.
Choosing the Right Track
We realise there might be strong emotional
bonds to any of these track names, but
please consider carefully which track is
right for you. We urge you to read through
the curricula (visit baristaguildofeurope.
com for details) for the modules you're
interested in, so you can make an informed
decision. You – and everyone else in
your group – will benefit the most from
the course if you possess the skills and
knowledge required for that level.
Barista Foundation is designed for people
new to the coffee industry and focuses on
the key skills required to set your grinder,
make espresso and foam and texture
milk for cappuccinos. No previous barista
experience is required for this course.
Barista Intermediate is designed to test
key core and more advanced skills and
understanding, expected from a competent
Enjoy professional education, cutting-edge lectures,
tastings and lots of fun, over four busy days.
Attendees at Barista Camp 2014, photographed by Hung Nguyen Canh and Jordan Sanchez
BGE
barista (for example, from someone
working as a barista for six months or
more). Successful candidates should be
able to dial in a brew recipe, make a full
range of drinks with quality and speed, as
well as understand the basic requirements
for customer service and maintenance.
Barista Foundation is a recommended (but
not mandatory) pre-requisite module.
Brewing Intermediate is a hands-on
workshop where you will learn to analyse
your grind profile, match your grind to
your brewing method and to scientifically
measure coffee strength and chart a
coffee’s extraction.
Sensory Foundation covers the
essentials of sensory evaluation in
a practical and interactive manner.
It investigates the way we perceive,
what we taste and how to apply this
knowledge when evaluating coffee’s
natural characteristics. It also offers an
introduction to identifying speciality coffee
qualities, as well as a basic overview of
how to implement this in business.
Sensory Intermediate is ideal for
someone with cupping experience who
wants to develop their knowledge of
sensory skills. It is broken down into
three areas: 'how we taste, perceive and
interpret', 'running a cupping session and
tasting the diversity of coffee' and 'how
to set up sensory skills in your business'.
Sensory Foundation is a recommended
(but not mandatory) pre-requisite module.
Green Coffee Foundation covers
the key concepts surrounding green
coffee, from growing the plant, through
processing, shipping, storage and arrival
at a roaster. It includes an introduction to
cupping and coffee grading.
Book Now
Following on from the success of the
inaugural Camp last year, tickets for this
year’s event are in hot demand. Tickets are
priced at €575 (€525 for SCAE members)
and include your preferred track of CDS
modules, including certification, as well as
all other social and educational activities
at camp, three nights of accommodation
at the four star Hotel Corallo, and all
of your meals. You can book online at
baristaguildofeurope.com/bc/registration.
8537 Pentair Cafe Europa (128x185) AW_128x185mm 06/02/2015 16:43 Page 1
23-26 September
Barista Camp
Riccione, Italy
baristaguildofeurope.com
◆
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PAUL STACK, the new President of
the Speciality Coffee Association
of Europe, has identified three
key priorities for his presidency:
alignment, strategy and succession.
He talks to SARAH GRENNAN
about leading SCAE into the future
following the phenomenal growth
of recent years.
Y
ou will have heard the mutterings, we’re sure. The
whispers, the Twitter speculation, the juicy gossip…
‘Collaboration’ is the word du jour, and its big brother,
‘alignment’ is rumoured to be causing tremors on both
sides of the Atlantic.
If you have been buried under a brew bar for the last year and
you haven’t caught the chatter, let us explain: the powers that
be in the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE) and the
Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) are investigating
the possibility of forming one global organisation dedicated to
promoting and supporting speciality coffee around the world.
While it is not a covert operation, there has been no official
comment on the process, fuelling the gossip at ground level in
the coffee community.
Paul Stack’s TED-esque style talk at the inaugural Re:co
Speciality Coffee Symposium in Gothenburg during World of
COVER STORY
Paul Stack, President of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe and Operations Director
of Marco Beverage Systems, pictured at Coffeeangel SAS, Dublin. Image: Jason Clarke
Coffee week was the Associations’ first step in taking ownership
of the conversation. His sit-down with Café Europa in August
is the second step. The message is clear: There is no conflict,
no tremors, no fear. But there may be if the burning issue of
alignment is not tackled.
‘The Re:co presentation was about trying to take control of
the message of alignment,’ reflects Paul, the Marco Beverage
Systems’ Operations Director who took up the mantle as SCAE
President at the Nordic World of Coffee event in June. ‘There
has been a lot of talk in the industry about SCAE and SCAA
collaborating. There has been a lot of chatter on social media.
Are we friends? Are we enemies? But the fact is that the industry
today, and the current connectivity we all enjoy today, means
that geographic borders are nonsense. The idea of not having
the European and American associations aligned is nonsense.
If we were to start an organisation now, it would be global.’
Paul’s talk at the first Re:co think tank, now available to view
on the RecoSymposium YouTube channel, gives a succinct
insight into why the European and US organisations are dating,
with a view to future marriage. When the SCAA was founded in
1982 and its European peer was established in 1998 the world
was a very different place. The web was still in its infancy, the
connectivity we all know and enjoy today was a pipedream.
Looking back over the period since the associations were formed
‘the connectivity in our lives has obviously transformed, and
it has been transformational for our businesses,’ mused Paul
in his presentation to industry leaders and stakeholders. ‘That
connectivity has enabled farmer to barista and it’s going to
further enable farmer to consumer. This is the landscape we live
in and that enables us all.’
While they may have operated in different jurisdictions, both
associations share a belief in ‘something that tastes better and »
COVER STORY
Pictured at the Marco Beverage Systems stand at the Nordic World of Coffee, image: Chris Dobbs
something better for the global coffee community. This child
of two parents – SCAE and SCAA – has been driving, very
successfully, global community events such as the world coffee
championships, and now Re:co. WCE has been a great test bed
for alignment.’
With roughly 3,500 members in each association, a marriage
of the two organisations makes sense for the coffee community
in Europe and the US, and the industry at large across the
globe, he maintains. ‘What empowers alignment is that there
is no reason not to do it. If we don’t collaborate, the nemesis
of competition is that we will start to eat ourselves.’ Indeed
there are early signs that this is already starting to happen. The
rapid growth of speciality coffee in new and emerging markets,
especially Asia, has seen SCAE and SCAA compete for new
members. ‘There is a huge pull on our membership as we are
asked to enter new markets. We are embarrassingly clashing.’
So the vision is alignment, but how will this manifest itself?
‘That is the big question,’ notes the SCAE President. ‘We have
been talking at board level for some time. There is already a lot of
cross-pollination in our associations. The Barista Guild of America
is linked with Barista Guild of Europe, members of the SCAE
board have sat on the SCAA strategic review for the last couple of
years. Going back a few years the connectivity between the staff
and the boards of both associations was practically non-existent,
but now we meet twice a year to discuss the major issues
impacting the industry. For instance we met on the Ethiopia
Exchange two years ago and we were able to lobby together for
a change through the ICO (International Coffee Organization).’
In dating parlance, therefore, the associations are dancing.
When do they expect to post an engagement announcement?
‘We’re certainly not in a rush and nothing is agreed as yet. I
would love to have a plan established by the time I sign off my
presidency in June 2016. The boards of the SCAA and SCAE are
knowledgeable industry executives and operators but we are
a group of volunteers. Do we know how a global association
should be set up? No, we don’t. We need to bring in some
expertise to establish what such an organisation would look
like and we have to benchmark the correct way of doing things
before we make any decisions. We don’t want to end up
‘The connectivity we all enjoy today means
that geographic borders are nonsense.
The idea of not having the European and American
associations aligned is nonsense. If we were to start
an organisation now, it would be global.’
can be explored’, explained Paul. The Europeans and Americans
have common goals and similar activities. ‘You have education
programmes, exhibitions, competitions on either side of the
Atlantic and more recently, both associations working on
research and sustainability progammes,’ he noted. The first step
in partnership was the birth of SCAE and SCAA’s baby, World
Coffee Events (WCE), which has done Trojan work in turning the
World Barista Championship into a speciality coffee showcase
viewed by thousands live at the event and online across the
globe each year.
Back in Marco’s head office in Dublin, Ireland in August,
Paul explains that, although both boards didn’t realise it at
the time, the formation of WCE was a crucial first step on the
road to alignment. ‘Unknown to the current board, when the
World Barista Championship was professionalised in 2010 by
the creation of World Coffee Events, it was a test bed to do
like FIFA.’
While the boards recruit external experts to help plot the
transition, they have also met internally with members of the
executives to discuss the possible integration and allay any
concerns among staff. Paul’s meeting with the SCAE executive
team was brimming with positivity, he reveals. ‘Both associations
are growing faster than they can cope so if alignment is there,
there is no reason to believe that there might be cuts. By working
together to enter new markets our growth is going to be even
more explosive and the critical issue is how to manage that.’
What about the fears among the membership? ‘Because
we haven’t had any substantial engagement with members on
alignment yet, any fears are anecdotal,’ notes Paul. ‘The SCAA
is a single country association whereas SCAE is multinational,
so maybe there are a few more fears on the US side. As SCAE
is a multicultural, multinational, multi-currency association,
COVER STORY
Paul’s presentation at the inaugural Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium in Gothenburg was SCAE and SCAA’s first public comment on alignment. You can view the talk on the RecoSymposium YouTube channel.
Image: Eileen Kenny
we’re more used to collaborating in Europe.’ He is conscious
of the need to engage with members on the issue, however.
‘The recent story regarding the US regional barista competitions
shows that if you take away a regional identity, the membership
won’t be happy. The fear of losing a national identity may be
even greater and those fears need to be acknowledged. We
need to establish and communicate the best possibilities for
both associations to enable a future road map. We owe it to the
community to clarify what might happen.’
The challenge for SCAE as it moves into new frontiers, is
how to cope with the demand for membership and services,
including the hugely popular Coffee Diploma System which
has already awarded an impressive 15,000 certificates this year.
To do this effectively, the Association needs investment, Paul
acknowledges. ‘The association has grown on average more
than 40% annually in the last four years. That highlights how
relevant SCAE is and the value it delivers. How will we meet that
demand in the future? We will need more senior managers,
we will need to invest in an automated membership system
hile charting a course for future alignment
and we will need to professionally develop our key staff
will surely provide plenty to keep him
and grow our own people.’
occupied through his presidency,
For Paul, one of the key architects of the
Paul Stack is eager to point out
Coffee Diploma System, the growth in the
Re:co Rewind
that it is just one task on his to-do list in the
Association and in particular, its educational
run-up to World of Coffee Dublin 2016.
offering, is hugely rewarding. ‘I didn’t do it
Watch Paul Stack’s
‘For me, three is the magic number,’ he
on my own, there were a lot of volunteers
presentation at Re:co
says, pointing to the three pillars he has
who invested a huge amount of time and
identified for his one-year term of office.
expertise in developing the Coffee Diploma
Gothenburg on the
‘The first is alignment and collaboration, the
System, but I am very proud of how
RecoSymposium YouTube
second is developing a new SCAE strategy
successful it has been. The fact that we give
and ensuring that we know what that is for the
€1 for every certificate issued back to origin,
channel.
next few years. That strategy for SCAE in no
in the past through Coffee Kids and now
way conflicts with what happens with alignment.
via Grounds for Health and the International
The third pillar is about succession. Our board is
Women’s Coffee Alliance, is wonderful. It further
elected every two years and we need to encourage
enables us to support the community.’
the right people in the community to put themselves
Another source of pride must be the arrival of World of
forward. We also need to ensure we have good succession
Coffee, SCAE’s flagship event, in Paul’s hometown of Dublin next
at committee level. The board sets the strategy but it is the
June. Is he feeling the pressure? ‘To be the President bringing World
committees that drive the activity and ensure that the executive are
of Coffee to Dublin is a wonderful thing, but it is also professionally
able to roll this out. SCAE was run by volunteers for so long that we
and personally terrifying,’ he chuckles. ‘I do believe it’s going to be
needed doers on the committees. Now that we have an effective
the biggest and best event in the show’s history though. Over 70%
executive team in place, we need thinkers as well as doers.’
of the stands have already sold and I think there is a big interest in
While the board is well represented in terms of age,
visiting Dublin. The fact that we are just one flight away from many
company size and geography, it still has an imbalanced gender
destinations, including the Eastern Seaboard of the US, is a big
mix – just two of the 16-strong board are women. ‘We need
attraction and we hope many of our colleagues in the community
to encourage more women to get involved,’ urges Paul. ‘It is
will come to visit us next June. Am I confident? Yes. Am I nervous?
hugely important that the board is represented with a good mix
Not too nervous, but I need to ensure I am fully involved in order
from origin, roasting, machines and retail, as well as in terms
to calm those nerves.’
of geography, gender and age. We will clarify this December
With alignment, strategy, succession and World of Coffee
which board members will run for re-election next June and
Dublin to juggle along with the day job at Marco Beverage
will be encouraging members of the community to nominate
Systems, it doesn’t sound like Paul will have much time for nerves.
themselves and others for election, particularly where there is a
‘I’m lucky, the team here are very supportive. Plus I enjoy being
board imbalance.’
busy, which is a good thing, as it’s going to be a busy year!’
W
◆
WORLD OF COFFEE
THE WORLD’S A STAGE
Thousands of coffee lovers from around the world landed in Gothenburg
during Midsummer Week where SCAE staged Europe’s greatest coffee
celebration, the Nordic World of Coffee.
T
his year’s event, sponsored by BWT water+more,
attracted 4,073 unique visitors from 81 countries,
more than half of whom returned on days two and
three of the show.
The visitors flocked to the Swedish Exhibition & Congress Centre
to do business with over 1,000 exhibitors who showcased their
products and services on 155 stands in a 3,000sq.m. exhibition.
Of course, SCAE’s flagship event is more than just an
exhibition, it’s a carnival of coffee. This year’s World of Coffee
featured no less than five enthralling World Competitions: the
SCAE Excellence Awards, sponsored by Demus S.p.A; the New
Product of the Show Awards, sponsored by Wilfa; the SCAE
Photography Awards; three busy days of cuppings, seminars and
talks, the inspirational Re:co Speciality Coffee Symposium. which
was held for the first time on the eve of the show, and of course,
plenty of exciting parties, including the SCAE Party at Liseberg
Amusement Park, the Gothenburg Street Food Festival and the
WCE and Astoria’s Official Barista After Party.
David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, paid tribute to the
supporters who made World of Coffee happen. ‘I would like
to sincerely thank the working group here in Gothenburg who
have worked so hard to make the Nordic World of Coffee the
best ever, and the hundreds of wonderful volunteers who freely
gave their time to help stage this event. I am particularly thankful
also to our sponsors BWT water+more, our Official Event Host;
Indonesia Specialty Coffee and the Indonesian Embassy, Official
Coffee Producing Country Sponsor; Demus S.p.A., sponsor of
the SCAE Excellence Awards; Wilfa, sponsor of the New Product
of the Show Awards; and KeepCup, Volunteers’ sponsor, whose
support has enabled us to stage such a great event.’ »
Above: David Veal, Executive Director, Paul Stack, President, Cosimo Libardo, Past President and Yannis Apostolopoulos, Vice President, SCAE, pictured with Frank Neuhausen, CEO, BWT water+more (centre) at the Nordic World
of Coffee Welcome Reception. BWT water+more was appointed Official Event Host of the Nordic World of Coffee. Image: Chris Dobbs
Top and opposite page: There was plenty to excite visitors at the Nordic World of Coffee. Images: Danilea Linares and Matias Sauter
WORLD OF COFFEE
INSPIRING EXCELLENCE
SCAE’s core mission is to ‘Inspire Coffee Excellence’ around the world, an objective
that it would not be able to achieve without the support of members and volunteers at ground level.
At the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg the Association honoured those
who strive to make a difference in the global coffee community.
P
roudly sponsored by Demus
S.p.A., the annual SCAE Excellence
Awards are judged by the SCAE
International Development
Committee and honour members who
have contributed to the success of the
industry through education, innovation,
sustainability and entrepreneurship.
David Veal, Executive Director, SCAE,
explains: ‘The SCAE Excellence Awards,
sponsored by Demus S.p.A., recognise
the achievement of members within
the coffee community, rewarding the
passion and commitment of those who
work tirelessly to grow and improve our
industry. Through these Awards each year
we honour those who have the courage,
the imagination, and the drive to make a
difference in the global coffee community
regardless of rank or place.’
The Awards were presented on
Wednesday, 17 June at the Nordic World
of Coffee. The 2015 winners are:
Pictured at the presentation of the SCAE Excellence Awards were Colin Smith, Yves Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, Konstantinos Kostantinopoulos,
Patrick O’Malley, Mathias Nabutele, Max Fabian and Heinz Trachsel
Young Entrepreneur Award
This award is presented to a young
and enthusiastic member of the
coffee industry who has shown drive,
determination and perseverance in their
field to be successful in the coffee trade.
Winner: Konstantinos Kostantinopoulos,
Chief Executive of Coffee Island
Since joining Coffee Island as Production
Manager in 2010, Konstantinos
Kostantinopoulos has risen to the top of
the company, doubling Coffee Island in
size, introducing it to new markets and
becoming Europe’s seventh biggest coffee
chain in the process.
Konstantinos, who has a background
in mechanical engineering and
aeronautics, has embraced the coffee
industry with vigour over the last six
years. Today he holds the SCAE Coffee
Diploma, he is an Authorised SCAE
Trainer of Barista, Brewing, Green
Coffee, Sensory and Roasting modules,
he is certified as a National Judge
and he serves as National Coordinator
of SCAE Hellas.
He regularly travels to farms around
the world, rolling out Coffee Island’s
Microfarm Project, a direct trade
programme. Under his stewardship Coffee
Island roasts more than 720 tonnes of
premium and speciality coffee per year,
and has a network of 256 coffee shops.
Max Fabian of Demus S.p.A, SCAE Excellence Awards sponsor
Passionate Educator Award
This award is presented to an individual
who has made a concerted effort to
communicate to others the wonderful
pleasure that coffee can bring us.
Winner: Patrick O’Malley, International
Barista & Coffee Academy (IBCA),
Espresso Italia, Infusion Coffee + Tea, and
LiquidTech Coffee Services
Patrick O’Malley is as close to a ‘Professor of
Coffee’ as one can get. A native of Arizona,
USA, he fell in love with coffee in the early
years of his career in the hospitality industry
and went on to found Espresso Italia in
1999, an importer of fine Italian coffee,
espresso machines and grinders. He later
expanded the empire with Infusion Fine Tea,
a supplier of artisan teas, and LiquidTech, the
service arm of the business.
Patrick became just the 43rd person
in the world to achieve SCAE’s Coffee
Diploma in 2012 and his passion for
coffee education led him to establish the
International Barista & Coffee Academy
(IBCA) in Tempe, Arizona, where he
provides training in SCAE’s Introduction to
Coffee, Barista Skills, Green Coffee, Sensory
Skills, Roasting and Brewing modules.
He is an Authorised SCAE Trainer,
Master Roaster, Tea Sommelier and
International Judge and a key supporter of
SCAE’s Coffee Diploma System, regularly
flying around the world to provide training.
WORLD OF COFFEE
Innovation Award
This award is presented to an individual
or organisation that has successfully
produced a new and innovative means of
promoting the quality of coffee.
Winner: Yves Clyford Desobgo Nguepi,
Demus S.p.A.
Demus S.p.A.’s R&D Manager, Yves
Clyford Desobgo Nguepi, holds a Ph.D
in Chemical Engineering. He has worked
with the faculty of Chemical Engineering
at the University of Trieste, researching
the extraction of substances using carbon
dioxide (CO2) at supercritical state. He
is a coffee innovator and has recently
conducted exciting research into, and
the execution of, an alternative water
decaffeination process using activated
charcoal at Demus S.p.A. and Demus Lab.
of areas around Mount Elgon. The
organisation also encourages collective
conservation of the environment through
the different farmer groups. Farmers are
encouraged to plant shade trees on their
farms that improve soil fertility and provide
an additional source of income when they
mature. Coffee A Cup is also embarking
on a new project to provide 13,000
cooking stoves which will reduce wood
consumption and help reduce respiratory
diseases by making kitchens healthier.
Lifetime Achievement Award
The Lifetime Achievement Award is a
special award presented by SCAE each
year to an individual from the coffee
industry that has furthered the interests
of the coffee community by promoting
the concept of quality coffee in a
statesmanlike manner.
Working Towards Sustainability
The Working Towards Sustainability
award is presented to a smallholder,
estate, cooperative, mill or farm in an
origin country that has worked to adapt
traditional farming or coffee preparation
methods in an effort to improve the
environment and help sustain the industry.
Winner: Mathias Nabutele, Coffee A Cup
Coffee A Cup has worked diligently to try
and prevent landslides in Uganda that have
killed hundreds through the reforestation
Winner: Heinz Trachsel
Heinz Trachsel has dedicated much
of his career to inspiring excellence
in coffee. He spent 40 years working in
the industry, spearheading domestic and
international marketing and sales of fully
automatic professional Swiss espresso
coffee machines.
A SCAE member for over a decade,
Heinz served as Swiss National
Coordinator from 2006-2012, leading
the local organisation team for World
of Coffee Berne in 2006. He was voted
‘National Coordinator of the Year’ in 2010,
became a member of the Education
Committee in 2009 and he is a co-creator
of the Coffee Diploma System. Heinz
has been a constant ally of the Association
since he joined in 2004, serving as a
board member since 2012, vice chair
of the Membership Committee,
and the Regional Coordinator for
Switzerland, Germany and Austria
from 2012-2014.
‘Heinz has been a passionate
supporter of the Speciality Coffee
Association of Europe, contributing
significantly to the development of
our education programme, among
other initiatives. We are hugely grateful
for the time and expertise he has
offered the Association over the past
decade,’ said David Veal. »
Heinz Trachsel, winner of the prestigious Lifetime Achievement Award
via Caboto, 31 34147 Trieste Italy
[email protected] www.demus.it
WORLD OF COFFEE
INNOVATION AWARDED
The New Product of the Show Awards, sponsored by Wilfa, are the definitive guide
to the hottest new products and services at World of Coffee each year
and shine a spotlight on the most exciting new innovations
to enter the market over the last 12 months.
T
his year’s winners, who were announced on day one
of the show in Gothenburg, included a new online
community where coffee growers and roasters can
interact, an espresso cupping cup, a cup with e-paper
display powered by hot coffee, an all-in-one, portable pour-over
coffee maker, an eco-friendly bag, natural syrup range and nondairy frappe.
The winners were selected by an independent panel of coffee
and hospitality experts following an intensive judging process,
combining written submissions, Dragons’ Den-style presentations
to the jury on the eve of the event, and product demonstrations
on the opening day of World of Coffee.
The jury selected seven products for honours at the event.
They were:
Best New Packaging Solution
The Eco-Friendly Box Pouch with Front
Zipper from Dutch Pack International
What is it? An airtight recyclable bag with
high barrier foil that keeps beans fresh for
long periods. It is available in a variety of
sizes and finishes, with different options
for reclosability and degassing valves.
What did the jury say? ‘This package is
innovative and recyclable, offering an ecofriendly solution at a competitive price
point. The front zip provides flexibility and
the flat bottom offers ease of use.’
More info dutchpack.eu
Best New Non-Coffee Beverage
Zuma Non-Dairy Vanilla Bean
Frappe from Beyond the Bean
What is it? A vanilla frappe powder
suitable for use with milk or as a
non-dairy milk alternative.
What did the jury say? ‘This nondairy product offers a neat solution
that is highly practical, caters to
special dietary requirements and
meets very different consumer
needs.’
More info beyondthebean.com
Best New Technology & IT Innovation
Algrano
What is it? The first online community where coffee growers
and roasters can meet, interact and eventually become business
partners. Algrano makes direct sourcing of micro lots hassle-free
for roasters, producers and logistic partners while providing end
to end transparency on prices.
What did the jury say? ‘Algrano triumphed in this highly
competitive category, impressing judges with its innovative
new online platform which provides greater transparency in the
coffee process – from crop to cup – and facilitates conversations
between farmers, baristas and consumers.’
More info algrano.com
Best New Food
Product
Espresso Syrup from AB Borowiec
What is it? A range of all-natural flavoured
syrups created by coffee lovers, free
from artificial colourings, flavours or
preservatives.
What did the jury say? ‘Made from natural
ingredients and competitively priced for
an all-natural product, the range includes
a wide selection of flavours.’
More info cafeborowka.pl
Best Coffee Convenience Product
Paulig Muki from Oy Gustav Paulig AB
What is it? A takeaway cup with an e-paper display
that is powered by hot coffee and can be used to
download images or send messages.
What did the jury say? ‘This exciting new cup with
e-paper display powered by hot coffee provides
an innovative platform to connect customers with
each other and your brand in a fun way.’
More info pauligmuki.com
WORLD OF COFFEE
Best Domestic Coffee Equipment
Cafflano Klassic from Beanscorp
What is it? A portable, all-in-one, pourover coffee maker
combining a hand-mill grinder, pourover kettle, stainless etching
filter dripper and tumbler with lid.
What did the jury say? ‘This all-in-one, portable, pour-over coffee
maker is an ingenious consumer product that will appeal to
speciality coffee enthusiasts around the world.’
More info cafflano.com
David Veal, SCAE, and Tony Andersson, Wilfa, present Raphael Studer, Algrano, with the award
for Best New Technology & IT Innovation. Image: Chris Dobbs
Meet the Jury
Best Professional Coffee Equipment
The Revelation Cup by L’Arbre a Café
What is it? The Revelation Cup is the first cupping cup for espresso,
designed to appeal to the different senses – sight through its
shape, smell through its aromatic opening, touch through the thick
stoneware and taste with the organoleptic clarity it enables.
What did the jury say? ‘This was another hugely competitive
category. The Revelation Cup ultimately took first place,
impressing with its concept and delivery. The espresso cupping
cup changes your sensory experience of coffee – from smell to
taste and touch, transforming your cupping experience.’
More info larbreacafe.com
As part of their prize, the winners will each receive publicity with
SCAE to the value of €3,000. Keep an eye out for future issues of
Café Europa to learn more about these great products. »
The New Product of the Show Awards are judged
independently from SCAE by a panel of experts from
the café, catering, hotel and academic sectors.
The 2015 judges were:
•Kristofer Gibson, Technical Development –
Product Manager, Costa Express
•Jonathan Morris, Author and Editor of coffee-related
publications and Professor of Modern History
at the University of Hertfordshire
•Steve Lovegrove, Head of Business Excellence –
Hot Beverages, Compass Group UK & Ireland
• Krister Dahl, Executive Chef, Gothia Towers
(l-r) Krister Dahl, Jonathan Morris, Kris Gibson and Steve Lovegrove
WORLD OF COFFEE
TAKE FIVE
World Brewers Cup finalists
Five new World Champions were crowned and one marriage proposed at the Nordic World of Coffee.
E
urope scored highly at this year’s Coffee Championships
in Gothenburg with three of the five new World
Champions hailing from the region, including two
from neighbouring Norway. But while it was a great
performance for the host continent, the event was arguably even
better for Australia’s Caleb Cha who celebrated winning the World
Latte Art Championship by dropping to one knee and proposing
to his – very surprised – girlfriend on stage. (She said yes!)
A total of 36 National Latte Art Champions, 28 National
Brewer Champions, 36 National Cup Tasters Champions,
10 National Coffee Roasting Champions, and 14
National Coffee in Good Spirits Champions took part
in the championships over the three days. Along with
thousands of spectators at the event, a massive 43,850
viewers around the world watched the competitions
live online.
Minkeun Choi, Joanna Alm and Audun Sørbotten triumphed in World Coffee Roasting Championship
WORLD OF COFFEE
THE RESULTS
World Latte Art Championship
Champion: Caleb Cha, Cafenatics, Australia 2nd: Xuechao Wang, Jiangbeileran Coffee, China 3rd: Kyeong-woo Jung, Corea Coffee Belt, South Korea
4th: Mao Nagura, Fonz, Japan 5th: Arnon Thitiprasert, RISTR8TO, Thailand 6th: Hong-Sheng Liao, Café Moment, Taiwan
World Brewers Cup
Champion: Odd-steinar Tøllefsen, Supreme Roastworks, Norway
2nd: Konstantinos Iatridis, Taf, Greece 3rd: Benjamin Prager, Bear Brothers & Cow, Switzerland 4th: Sarah Jean Anderson, Intelligentsia Coffee, USA
5th: Rob Kerkhoff, Babo Coffee, The Netherlands
6th: Ruslan Shulga, Omni Coffee, Russia
World Cup Tasters Championship
Champion: Juan Gabriel Cespedes, Ecomtrading Costa Rica,
Costa Rica
2nd: Mateusz Petlinski, Woyton Roast Inc., Germany 3rd: Yoeri Joosten, Boot Koffie, The Netherlands 4th: Krisse McGregor, Coffee Lab, New Zealand
World Coffee Roasting Championship
Champion: Audun Sørbotten, Audun Coffee, Norway 2nd: Joanna Alm, Drop Coffee, Sweden 3rd: Minkeun Choi, Coffee HOW’S Company, South Korea
World Coffee in Good Spirits Championship
Champion: George Koustoumpardis, The Underdog, Greece
2nd: Ondrej Hurtík, doubleshot, Czech Republic 3rd: Paul Ungureanu, Paul Ungureanu Consulting, Romania
4th: Eduardo Affonso Scorsin, Lucca Cafés Especiais, Brazil
5th: Sang Moo Hyun, Maris Coffees, South Korea
6th: Sang Ho Park, Square Mile Coffee, United Kingdom »
World Latte Art Champion, Caleb Cha
World Coffee in Good Spirits Champion, George Koustoumpardis Images: WCE
WORLD OF COFFEE
1.
PHOTO FINISH
2.
4.
3.
Winning pics 1. From Bean To Cup – ‘The Process’ by Seivijus Matiejunas 2. The Artist's Way – ‘Ethiopian Coffee Break, Jimma, Ethiopia’ by Jonatan Låstbom
3. The Bean And The Farm – ‘The Origin of How it all Starts, Los Soldaditos’ by Ximena Rubio 4. The People And The Bean – ‘It Takes Thousands to Make Coffee Happen, I'm Proud’, Kateřina Husičková
WORLD OF COFFEE
SCAE’s ever-popular annual Photography Awards
proved to be another great crowd-pleaser at
World of Coffee 2015.
T
his year’s competition drew record entries from across
the coffee community in Europe and around the world.
The Awards were judged by a panel of experts, all of
whom have a creative eye and a keen interest in great
photography. The members of the jury were Johan Damgaard,
Johan & Nyström; Ludovic Maillard, Maison P. Jobin & Cie S.A.S.;
Alessandro Bonuzzi, Artisan Coffee; and Sarah Grennan, Café
Europa magazine.
Open to amateur photographers who work in the coffee
industry, this year’s categories celebrated coffee’s process,
people, artists and farms. The winners were:
From Bean to Cup – Seivijius Matiejunas
The People and the Bean – Katerina Husickova
The Artist's Way – Jonathan Låstbom
The Bean and the Farm – Ximena Rubio
Winter
W O N D E R S
The colder weather can bring profitable
opportunities for hot drinks. DaVinci Gourmet
syrups and sauces will inspire you to create a
seasonal menu to warm your customers’ hearts.
World of Coffee visitors were also given an opportunity to
vote for their favourite photograph through the official World of
Coffee app and the People’s Choice Award was presented to
Katerina Husickova.
◆
29%
of consumers are motivated by a
theme or occasion when purchasing
BERRY
Christmas
MACCHIATO
Jonathan Låstbom pictured with the SCAE Photography Award for ‘The Artist's Way’
INGREDIENTS
12oz/360ml
DaVinci Gourmet Gingerbread Syrup 2 pumps
DaVinci Gourmet Raspberry Syrup
1 pumps
Espresso
2 shots
Milk
250ml
DIRECTIONS
ADD syrups to base of cup
ADD Espresso
TOP with steamed milk
For inspiration, check out
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www.davinci-gourmet.com
at www.davinci-gourmet.com
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*Independent research, commissioned by DaVinci Gourmet and conducted by Cambridge Direction
Seivijius Matiejunas with the SCAE Photography Award for ‘From Bean to Cup’
WOMEN IN COFFEE
WOMEN IN COFFEE
The IWCA
Connecting Women
to Lead Their Own Revolution
As SCAE signs a three-year Memorandum of Understanding
with the International Women’s Coffee Alliance, KELLE VANDENBERG
reflects on the crucial work undertaken by the organisation and its members
to empower women in the coffee community.
W
ithin the world of coffee, women are taking more
predominant roles in all aspects of the industry. In
consuming countries and in producing countries,
women hold key positions of power, are leaders
within their communities, and lend their voices to policies that
affect their world.
I have heard the term ‘quiet revolution’ used to describe the
changing role women play within the coffee industry. The gender
gap remains a real and true divide, and when you listen to the
voices of the women in coffee, you begin to understand the
challenges that women must overcome.
To quote my friend Lucia Ortiz of El Salvador, ‘I think there are
a lot of amazing women… the coffee business always used to
be handled by men, but because of destiny or times, now more
women are in charge of farms, as producers, and are getting
involved in all facets of the coffee chain.’
The coffee industry has challenges ahead. With the rust
outbreak affecting roughly 53% of all coffee grown in the world,
compounded by rising global temperatures affecting coffee yield
worldwide, we are seeing a reduction in overall coffee production.
It will take innovation and diversification to stabilise the
coffee crisis. I believe that women are assuming larger roles
in coffee due to the changing times, allowing diversification
of ideas, practices, and policy. The expanding role of women
in coffee impacts directly on the livelihood of their immediate
community. Women, statistically, keep the money local, share
their knowledge, and give back to their community. We see
this happening all over the world, in every level of economic
situations.
When People Stand Together, They Stand Stronger
This is the underlying thread that weaves the story of the
International Women’s Coffee Alliance (IWCA). Over 10 years
ago, a group of women came together and travelled to origin.
On that journey, they met women coffee growers who, in turn,
shared their journey, their experience, and their challenges. As it
often happens when people of different cultures come together
and speak of their experiences, the similarities bound them
together in a shared humanity and ideas of how to help began
to grow. »
#internationalcoffeeday
WOMEN IN COFFEE
Princess Lalah with women of the Philippines
Understanding the new role of development helps you
understand what the International Women’s Coffee Alliance
does. It is a group of dedicated women and men who
understand that, in order to maintain a sustainable coffee
industry, they must strengthen the heart of the coffee
community: the women and children.
The International Women’s Coffee Alliance is simply about
making connections to help people help themselves. The IWCA
offers a hand up rather than a hand out. We teach, we mentor,
we introduce, and we recommend. We make connections,
knowing that, working together, we grow a strong global coffee
community.
We believe strongly in localisation and building a community
outreach through our chapters, knowing that those living in
a community know the needs of that community best. Local
chapters become a local resource at the source.
When we started, it was at best a good intention that has since
grown in the last 10 years to become an incredible 19 chapters
globally. These are chapters that have benefited from the IWCA
in leadership training, strategic planning, business development,
technical training, health and medical programmes. The
programmes have impacted policy, community, personal and
professional growth and strengthened women’s role within the
supply chain.
Women of El Salvador
By Lucia Ortiz
Sonia Castaneda, director of Alianza de Mujeres en Café de El
Salvador (AMCES), the El Salvador chapter of the IWCA, was
married to a coffee producer and was widowed very young.
With three children and a big coffee farm to handle, she learned
quickly and on the job. She took control of her situation, her
farm and, now, her coffees are Cup of Excellence winners. With
amazing high quality, she now exports to Europe and is always
active in the coffee community. She has a strong will and is not
afraid to say what she thinks, and doesn’t shy away from the
truth. Sonia is one of El Salvador’s top producers and is highly
respected in the coffee community.
Carmen de Silva, secretary of AMCES, is an amazing woman.
She is a top producer and a ‘heart giver’. Carmen gives a lot to
her community, hosting lunch every Thursday for all the elderly
in her coffee town who do not have anything to eat or can’t
afford a good meal. She also owns a coffee mill that she created.
Carmen provides faith and love to others and has passed on her
strong will to her family of admiring women.
Lya de Castaneda is a member of AMCES and an example of
what a woman can do. She is the daughter of a coffee producer
and married a coffee producer; she has literally grown up in
coffee. She started a bakery at her house when she was young
with other little kids in the area. Being a woman with impressive
IWCA members at the AFCA Conference & Exhibition
The expanding role of women in coffee impacts directly on the livelihood
of their immediate community. Women, statistically, keep the money local,
share their knowledge, and give back to their community.
The International Women’s Coffee Alliance brings people
together for training, helps source funding, and builds a vast
network of resources that women can utilise at their local
chapter level.
We are helping to give women the tools necessary to build
their own dreams.
I share with you a glimpse of some of the many women of
coffee and the incredible example of successful innovation,
teaching, and giving back to their community that strengthens
the world of coffee, one farm at a time. The following are
individual journeys as told by the women themselves, through
their voices.
entrepreneurship, Lya learned how to diversify. She exports her
coffee and kept the bakery, which has become very well-known.
Now she has her own coffee brand (Bosque de Lya), creates
coffee seeds covered with chocolate, and her latest project is
coffee liqueur. Lya is a great example of what women can do!
Women of the Philippines: Princess KumalahSug-Elardo
By Pacita Juan, IWCA Philippine Chapter
She thought she would retire soon as her children were almost
finished college. But one fateful visit to her birthplace, Panamao,
Sulu, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo, now 62 years old, changed
her life and the life of so many others. »
WOMEN IN COFFEE
A Burundi farmer with a bag of Coffee By Design’s Burundi Kayanza Bourbon coffee
Four years ago, Princess Lalah, as she is known to many,
saw how coffee was being dried and processed in her small
town. They would spread the drying coffee berries on the road
and hope that some vehicles come and run them over –
to crack the shells and expose the coffee beans. That is
how they processed coffee.
In one coffee summit organised by the non-profit Philippine
Coffee Board, Inc. (PCBI), she learned that coffee is better off
being harvested ripe and then washed it to get the best flavour.
She went to work and first put a water line from the hills to her
town. She did this ‘bayanihan’ style (where villagers work together
with no pay) and asked the members to chip in a few thousand
peso savings so they could finally have water flowing in their
taps. And so water came to Panamao.
In just a year, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo raised the incomes
of the families from zero to P10,000 (USD $250) a year. Soon,
many more villages went into coffee harvesting with the motto
‘Pick Red’. Her coop would only buy red ripe cherries and would
also buy civet droppings at a special price. Civet droppings come
from wild civets who roam the Sulu forests. It is a prized coffee
selection that commands a premium price due to its exotic
nature.
In 2012, Princess KumalahSug-Elardo started to sell more
coffee to Manila markets and also joined the International
Women’s Coffee Alliance-Philippines chapter as a founding
trustee. This opened her doors to more markets, retail and
wholesale. She also joined the Management Association of the
Philippines Agri Business and Countryside Development (MAPABCDF) as a regular member and got to know businessmen who
would be her benefactors and friends, buying her coffee and
raising funds through projects such as purchasing generators and
cable TV for her community.
Already, her town mates are busy harvesting and processing
coffee and the men have put down their arms because
Princess has shown them another way to live – peacefully and
economically-vibrant – through a most important product called
coffee.
One Woman from Burundi: My Story
By Isabelle Sinamenye
As a woman in the coffee sector, I was designated to participate
in the workshop of IWCA/ITC/AFCA, ‘Promoting Possibilities’,
which was held in Kampala in 2009. I was the only one in my
country to participate.
When I came back home, I translated the ‘Country Chapter
Development Manual’ into French (our official language) to
facilitate the socialisation and teach what I had learned. After the
IWCA members in El Salvador
WOMEN IN COFFEE
SCAE & IWCA –
SUPPORTING WOMEN
IN COFFEE
At the Nordic World of Coffee in Gothenburg this June, the
Speciality Coffee Association of Europe and the International
Women’s Coffee Alliance signed a three-year Memorandum
of Understanding recognising their common purpose to
empower women in the international coffee community to
achieve meaningful, sustainable lives and encourage and
recognise women's participation in all segments of
the coffee industry.
The International Women's Coffee Alliance (IWCA)
and Speciality Coffee Association of Europe (SCAE)
are committed to working together to provide relevant
educational programmes, promote and create women's
opportunities and common codes of conduct,
and women's empowerment within a sustainable
supply chain for the speciality coffee industry.
A worker at the washing station in the Democratic Republic of Congo
establishment of our IWCA Burundi chapter, I was inspired by
my work to find a viable project that would enhance the living
standards of women members of the IWCA Burundi and help in
producing coffee for their families.
Our goal was to produce and sell top quality coffee. Through
the IWCA connection, we found BD Imports, which bought twice
the coffee from our members and it allowed us to distribute
twice the bonus to members who have put together their
coffees. We also partnered with Burundi Friends International and
110 IWCA members received two goats to fertilise their farms,
provide milk, and, additional income for our families.
A profit-splitting plan was developed between IWCA Burundi,
the local washing station owner, and BD Imports that provided
a bonus payment to the IWCA Burundi members based on the
coffee selling price. This year, Mawazo, one of the IWCA Burundi
members, rode her bicycle to visit me and share her story. ‘I
was at my home when I heard about IWCA. I became an IWCA
member in March 2013. I received 60,000 Fr Bu (approx. USD
$40.00) as a bonus for the coffee I sold to the Karehe washing
station and I bought this bicycle. Now if my child is ill, I can take
him to see the doctor on my bicycle.’
A Shared Voice
I am grateful to the women of coffee who have shared their
stories, either directly or through the voices of others. It has been
my honour to share a few examples of the way that women
change lives every day by coming together leading their quiet
revolution from the seat of their bicycle.
To learn more about the International Women’s Coffee
Alliance go to www.womenincoffee.org
◆
KELLE VANDENBERG is a former vice-president of IWCA and the VP of
Marketing at PBi.
Mery Santos, Vice President, IWCA, receives a cheque for €5,000 from David Veal,
Executive Director, SCAE
Desiree Logsdon, president of the IWCA, believes that the
spirit of the MOU is directly related to the mission of the
IWCA. ‘Our mission, to empower women in the international
coffee community to achieve meaningful and sustainable
lives; and to encourage and recognise the participation of
women in all aspects of the coffee industry is directly
aligned with the purpose of this collaboration.’
Together, SCAE and the IWCA will be able to:
• Provide market access and/or marketplace
• Recognise women's achievement
• Create a global approach
• Foster networking
•Create a platform for leadership training
and professional development.
David Veal, Executive Director of SCAE, could not agree
more. ‘Entering into this agreement helps to leverage both
organisation's efforts to make a real difference to the lives of
women in coffee.’
With a mission of inspiring coffee excellence through
innovation, education, research and most importantly,
communication, SCAE, in alliance with the IWCA, can raise
awareness of the needs of women throughout the coffee
supply chain.
INTERVIEW
SAVING THE CIVET
Sourcing Ethical Kopi Luwak
Civet coffee, or kopi luwak, has caused
controversy due to the unscrupulous
farming practices of some producers, which
were highlighted in a BBC documentary in
2013. But not all kopi luwak should be tarred
with the same brush, argues Matthew Ross,
who has worked hard to create a sustainable
and ethically sourced kopi luwak, collected
from wild civets that are free to roam the
Indonesian jungle. SCAE’s ANDRA VLAICU
met the man behind the Ross Kopi brand at
the Nordic World of Coffee this summer to
find out more about this unusual coffee.
How did you get started in coffee?
I’ve always loved coffee. When I was a kid, I would drink my
mother’s Nescafé when she wasn’t looking. When special people
visited, we would have a cafetiere and we would leave the ground
coffee in the fridge for months, but it still tasted great to me.
I got serious about coffee in 2009. I was having a meal in
Japan, at an amazing restaurant where the meal comprised
delicacies and the coffee was terrible! I asked where it was from
and they said ‘it’s from Italy’. I was amazed that these restaurants
could pay such attention to detail when it came to food, but
then it didn’t carry through into the coffee. I thought to myself,
in my wisdom of not knowing anything about coffee, ‘I’m going
to make that delicacy coffee’.
That year I took a trip to Banda Aceh, Indonesia, and I realised
that kopi luwak, on paper, could be the delicacy coffee I was
after. I set up a company with a couple of partners and after
a couple of years, what began as an interest became just…
everything. I left Hong Kong and banking and moved to Sumatra,
living on and off, for two years, in Banda Aceh and Tanjung.
I started living my coffee and it was fantastic! I lived in a very small
house, renting it for $6 a month, and I learned ‘bahasa’ [Indonesian
language] and about the wonderful people of Sumatra.
INTERVIEW
Matthew Ross pictured in London’s famous Harrods department store where Ross Kopi was promoted
uneaten because they only eat the exact amount of what they
want. When I was living in Banda Aceh there was a papaya that
a luwak kept for over five days, so they choose just the best
coffee to start with. When it gets through their stomach, there
are enzymes in there that change the peptone. This takes the
bitterness out of coffee because the actual biological mechanics
of the civet cat changes the chemistry of the bean, which is part
of the cat’s fermentation process. I think there’s a lab in Korea
trying to replicate this fermentation process, to obtain the same
coffee. There is a real reason why there is no animal like it.
Lake Laut Tawar in the Gayo Highlands of Northern Sumatra, where Matthew sources kopi luwak
Making a real Luwak is extremely hard and difficult. There are
challenges everywhere – not just challenges with the beans,
but also challenges socially and geographically. It’s flooded with
challenges and I only realised this when I was way too heavily
submerged in it. At a certain point, with Kopi, you can only lose
what nature’s given you. Safeguarding that bean is really hard
with Luwak, but ultimately, very enjoyable.
What made you choose luwak? You can have excellent
speciality coffee much easier than luwak and some might
say it tastes just as well or even better.
You can, of course, but for me it was the perfect delicacy I was
looking for. I remember Dan Barber doing a speech about a guy
in Spain who was making a natural version of foie gras without
the gavage. I thought this was amazing. I think for a delicacy
to have rarity it has to be artisan. There has to be a mysterious
element of how it’s made which conjures up a bit of magic and I
thought that luwak had that.
What do civets do to coffee that it makes it so special?
First, the cat has an amazing sense of smell and you can see
through the jungle that there are coffee trees and guava fruits
What about its bad reputation? Animal activists argue that the
civets are cruelly farmed.
Kopi luwak's popularity fell off a cliff in about one week. Tony
Galindo did an expose for the BBC on luwak production in
Northern Sumatra and that didn’t help. The challenge was there.
The camera doesn’t lie. What they exposed was happening, but it
was a very small size, in my opinion. You can find this in a couple
of places, but you cannot say the whole industry is like that. It
wasn’t nice what they saw – I think it was quite rough. Luwak was
mis-sold in places, but that’s not where I’m coming from in this
line of business. I was I tarred with the same brush and I didn’t
think that was very fair on me – they put me back for months.
I met Neal D’Cruze and Tony at WSPA and we started working
on certification with the government. It’s something that needs
to be done. This coffee needs to be registered and certificated –
the burden of proof is on the producer. If these farms can prove
it’s real, then they should do it.
What’s the perception of kopi luwak in the countries you trade in?
Since I’ve been selling it, the perception has been that it’s cruel,
especially given the fact that I launched my business two months
before the BBC documentary aired. Talk about timing! And then,
of course, the actual process of getting it isn’t exactly inviting you
to drink it… I’d like to think that we’re changing that by educating
the client with our traceability and our story.
How can consumers know that they are drinking the real deal?
It comes down to traceability and being able to track your
products source. If it’s just a bag of coffee with a sticker on it,
who knows where the coffee came from? Food production
is so mass market now that everyone is slapping a sticker on
packaging and sending it out. I think we need to go back and
start rewarding our farmers for a product that’s well made, that’s
traceable and that tastes good. »
INTERVIEW
How many farms do you have?
I have 52 farmers over a 300 miles radius in 12 different villages.
I’m constantly working with 20 or 30, because the season
changes and there are times where farmers don’t have any
coffee. You know, you only really get luwak when it’s raining and
cold, so you don’t get it all the time.
How do you treat your animals?
I’ve never seen one in my life, they live in the jungle. They are
nocturnal jungle cats. I don’t live in a jungle and I do my operations
during the day, so we don’t cross paths. I’ve seen them in cages,
but I’ve never been in the jungle to track one down.
How do you select your coffee?
We find it in the morning and we rely entirely on luck to find it.
They are very territorial animals and they use their moss gland
to mark out territory and they normally are active within that
territory. They like to deposit their ‘golds’ in parcels for us to find,
mostly on fallen trees, but it can be anywhere, so it takes luck to
find it. I walked many, many farms, without finding anything and
sometimes you’ll find half a kilo in one spot. If it doesn’t rain for a
few days you don’t find anything. And if you do, it’s probably too
old and we can’t use old luwak, because it doesn’t taste good.
What coffee do you use?
It can be any variety, but this cat eats only the right beans. There
are wild coffees and a lot of varietals in the Gayo Islands, so a cat
could eat from any of those. The challenge for us is in insuring
the right water percentage when roasting. You can have one
variety of coffee with a dense bean and one variety with a less
dense bean. When you do your coffee sample, it says it’s 12%,
but in that you might have a couple of beans at 6%, because of
density. When you roast it, you have one bean that tastes like
charcoal and one bean that tastes accurate, like a grapefruit.
Then we just stick the beans together in a bag for a couple of
months and they sort of water one another – that’s why the
process takes four months.
That’s not exactly fresh coffee!
I don’t know if there is any fresher coffee that’s been more
looked after or cared for than ours. It’s not exactly fresh, no, but it
wouldn’t be any good if it was.
What criteria do you base your cuppings on? Does the kopi
luwak from your area taste different from a kopi luwak from
another area? How do you profile this coffee in order to know
the differences and how do you create its main characteristics?
We know what fruits are in season on the farm from the month
we collect the coffee so that’s going to have an impact. We do
manage and keep statistics on all our farmers so we can see
what’s going on with flavours. And if one doesn’t taste right, then
it’s a defect and we can trace it back.
This isn’t some random roulette game, it needs to be
professionalised and traceable. What we aim to do is create a
system where we can ensure quality – where it’s going to be
clean, completely defect free and taste sweet, but where we let
the characteristics speak for themselves. We are going to create
their own arena to shine and impress, by making them really well.
When we have a cupping we know they’re all going to be
80 or 85, because that’s the quality that they need to be at. We
don’t know the flavours – some might be really cinnamon, some
might taste like spices or tobacco, some might be really sweet,
and taste like guava fruit. What I will tell you is they’re going to be
clean and sweet and balanced.
How do you process your coffees, given the unusual way of
getting your hands on it?
Lots of people check if it’s real and then we wash it in spring
water until it is completely clean. When it’s run clear, we dry it
on reed trays, and we make sure each farm has its own tray so
it doesn’t get blended with others. Then it dries nicely, sitting in
a drying house where we measure the humidity and make sure
everything is kept under strict parametric over a period of six to
eight weeks.
INTERVIEW
Where do you think this trend with kopi luwak is heading?
What is its stand on the Indonesian coffee market versus the
rest of the world?
With Ross Kopi, I set out that most obviously the cat is the main
differentiator but it’s not what I’m selling it on. There are 18 stages
in making this coffee, and the cat is only one of them. They’re all
done inside Indonesia by Indonesian people, Indonesian farmers.
For me to produce a product of that quality, it is through absolute
professionalism, commitment, heart, love and all of the farmers
whom I work with. I want this kopi luwak to showcase the crafts
these guys can produce. They’re producing their own coffees on
the side of this luwak, but through it they get a really good profile
and a global name – because if you drink their luwak, you should
consider drinking their other coffees as well.
What’s the consumption of luwak in Indonesia?
Funny enough, I’ve never sold any in Indonesia – it’s all based on
export. In the Indonesian supermarket you can get something
called ‘white caffe’, which is instant coffee you can pick up for 10
cents a sachet – so I’m up against a bit of a hurdle over there.
It’s a fact that many coffee farmers don’t know what their
coffee tastes like. Is this the case for your farmers too?
It’s beautiful to see a farmer cup his coffee, then cup other farmers’
coffees and then to see the glow on his face when he realises his
coffee is better, he has pride in what he does. As soon as you start
educating, you cannot go back, you just progress and evolve.
What about competition?
I think the luwak industry is recovering and will recover as where
there is a demand there has to be a supply. As with everything else,
as you have your favourite whisky or favourite food, you must have
your favourite coffee. The price will keep high if you keep the quality
– the competition will only boost demand for high-level coffee. So,
bring on more luwak producers, it’s going to be fantastic!
◆
CoLab
=
compelling
education
+
discovering
a coffee
community
+
meeting new
friends
Barista Guild of Europe’s first CoLab event, held in
collaboration with host partner Coffee Embassy, educational
partner Tamper Tantrum and gold partner and espresso bar
sponsor, Nuova Simonelli, took place in Prague earlier this year.
RASHEL WINN recalls a weekend of education, discovery and
friendship. Images: European Coffee Trip.
LEARNING
First attendees gathering for coffee at Cafe Jedna
‘What's Prague like?’
‘You'll love it. It's beautiful and weird and dark, and sexy,’ he
replied. I tried to picture it sometime later, waiting at the gate to leave
the crisp grey skies of Dublin for BGE's first CoLab event, nestled
in the heart of Bohemia. Thoughts of the city, however, were
secondary – my purpose was people-specific, and for them I'd
have gone anywhere. Barista Guild of Europe is a group I'd become familiar with
seven months prior, when they hosted Europe's first Barista
Camp. ‘Work hard, play hard,’ described it perfectly, and by the
end of it my body was exhausted from the activities, my heart
swollen with new friendships, and my mind tightly jammed with
new information and ideas to carry back from Greece. CoLab aimed to be similarly within the ideal trifecta of
knowledge-activity-connections, minus the rigorous exams (for
which I was grateful): just a full day of talks given by people on
the frontiers of coffee development in various fields, sandwiched
between half-days of culture and cafés. A flying visit.
Thursday found me at Cafe Jedna, as attendees and event
crew alike trickled in for registration, greetings old-and-new,
and our first coffees together. As our cluster of groups chatted,
certain themes were overheard:
‘Where are you from? What do you do in coffee? What do you
think of THIS coffee?’
‘Have you had the sausages here? They're, like, everywhere!’ ‘Were you at camp? Are you going to the next one?’ ...‘So,
boat tour?’
The latter referred to the next event on our itinerary. After the
last person had been checked in, the last lanyard handed out,
and the last cup downed, we were off to the docks. The river
was laced with boats, and as ours pulled out onto the water I
was briefly dazed by Prague's dark, stunning beauty. This abated
as we fell into animated talks over our new drinks (beers, this
time around), before Kalle Freese took the mic to act as our tour
guide. I use ‘act’ in that he wasn't our tour guide. Feeling game,
we went along with it, laughing, and by the time we had returned
to land we were feeling giddy and ravenous. Most of us went on
to dinner together, in a tavern off a winding, cobblestoned street.
I had no idea where we were, or what the place was called. I still
don't. But we were fed in the straightforward, no-frills fashion
I'd quickly come to associate with Czech food before we then
ambled into the cool night, down more labyrinthine alleyways
until our (smaller) group found a cocktail bar. The drinks were »
BGE Co-ordinator Isa Verschraegen at the registration desk
Coffee Sponsor doubleshot's Jaroslav Tuček engaging in the discussion
LEARNING
The afternoon panel discussion with Chris Hendon, Joanna Alm and Adam Neubauer and hosts Steve Leighton and Kalle Freese
elegant. My companions funny and insightful. My bed (much)
later – incredibly welcome.
The Meat of the Event
Navigating Prague, via lost taxi, in the hurried morning that
followed was none of the aforementioned descriptors.
Regardless, just in time, the NTK came into view. This was
where all the talks were happening, six in total, paired with
Tamper Tantrum for coverage and panel discussion. The meat
of the event. I felt the tension from the taxi journey give way to
giddiness as I greeted my new friends, grabbed a goodie-stuffed
tote bag and cup of much-needed filter coffee, and took a seat
in the airy lecture hall.
Steve Leighton and Kalle greeted all of us. ‘This will most
definitely be the geekiest Tamper Tantrum we've had so far,’
Steve opened, and moments after we were fully immersed in the
first presentation. At a glance, the six speakers seemed disparate,
but they were united in their shared passion for their work in
coffee, and the depths to which they explained their processes
(read: ‘geekiness’).
Chahan Yeretzian brought the nascent findings of his trials
with water, packaging, and how we can better preserve our
coffee. ‘In a statistical sense, “a” number [for measuring sensory
quality] is nothing. You need a significant range [ex. 86 +/4, done by 3+ Q Graders]… There is no single molecule that
specifically smells like coffee.’
Erna Tosberg, familiar to competing baristas and an
experienced one herself, posed the question of whether
baristas really needed competitions at all. (We do.) ’I grew so
much as a barista… For me, it was very important that I found
the [competition] coffee before I built my presentation… If I
could make a new rule, I wouldn't allow people who've judged
competitions to go back to competing!’
Tibor Varady, speaking more to newcomers to coffee listening
to the Tamper Tantrum podcast later, spoke as a café owner
about what he looks for when hiring. ‘If you know that it is
more difficult to get a consistent espresso than to pour latte art
[you're on the right track]… Preparing for the world [Brewers Cup]
championship was one of my best developments [in coffee].’
When asked about employer/employee boundaries he said:
‘Don't think that because you're friends that you don't owe each
other that respect as workers.’
A panel discussion followed, then a lunch break to let the
talks soak in. We filed out of the hall, into the corridor outside
where a cupping of local coffees gave us a better sense of how
much speciality coffee had developed in this region of Europe. I
cupped. I shoved a sandwich and fistfuls of grapes and pastries
into my mouth while I listened to my friends and speakers during
this brief break. Another cup of filter. A refreshed return to the
lecture hall for Round Two.
Adam Neubauer, a Prague local, spoke about psychology
in coffee, social intelligence, and how we all benefit from making
ourselves better, not just our coffee. ‘Most people will get what
we're trying to do, and will wait [for that quality]. Communication
of possible wait times, especially with filter, is still important
though.’
Joanna Alm spoke about roasting, and her work at Drop
Coffee. ‘We have so much science around brewing – I want us
to be more brave with espresso too.’ She added: ‘All the feedback
we receive from our baristas is super welcome, and it helps us a
lot! Otherwise we're just in our own little bubble.’
Christopher Hendon, our last speaker, discussed grind size,
the Brazil Nut effect, and 'intruders'. On staying in coffee when
he goes for his post-grad at MIT: ‘I get a lot of emails about
signature drinks. That's not going to change.’ On government
funding for coffee research: ‘There's a lot of pushback, but [there
shouldn't be] – it's a problem that's more relatable, and affects
most people every day.’
Steve and Kalle closed the session with a last panel discussion,
and we were released for a few hours before the muchwelcomed after-party was to happen back at Cafe Jedna. My
mind felt it'd reached full capacity as it scrambled to hold on to
everything all at once. I scribbled down notes, my writing shaky
with the excitement brimming from my body. I was inspired!
It felt as if we were sharing in a preview of concepts that were
about to move speciality coffee into its next stage. (I dare not
say wave.)
The party after was a bubbly, energetic buzz as we feasted,
drank (beers and liquors that night), danced, and dove into more
detailed discussions about what we thought about what we'd
heard earlier. I'll admit to being an unreliable narrator for this part
– I remember laughing, loudly and often. I remember the feeling
of wanting to work with all of these people, or to see them work,
and I remember finding my bed with the feeling of being fully
satiated, as I had been at Barista Camp not long before.
The Last Morning
I was still rubbing sleep from my eyes, but packed and prepared.
I strayed off the given itinerary of a walking tour in favour of
meeting my (soon to be faraway) friends at EMA Espresso Bar
and later at Doubleshot. The early summer sun refreshed me
as I went to interview a couple of lovely coffee friends for the
First Draft Coffee blog, bolstered by the last coffees I could
manage before I was again, too soon, waiting at the gate to
return home.
‘What'd you think – was it like I said? Did you love it?’ he asked.
I just grinned, my heart fuller than when it left, and nodded.
◆
TAKE PART: The next CoLab will be held in Paris from 17-19 November.
Tickets are available now at baristaguildofeurope.com
QjA
PERNILLA
OLOW-GARD
da Matteo’s PERNILLA OLOW-GARD
was heavily involved in bringing World
of Coffee to Gothenburg, managing
the project at a local level for SCAE.
She gives an insight into the organisation
of Europe’s greatest coffee event.
How did the job as Local Project Manager come about?
I had been involved for a couple of years locally on the project
to bring the show to Gothenburg. When we won the tender to
host World of Coffee, SCAE reached out to me to see if I would
be available to project manage it locally. I managed to free up
some time in my normal job as Marketing Manager at da Matteo in
Gothenburg and do this part time.
When did you start working on the project?
I had been involved since early 2012, but started working on the
project properly in April 2014, 14 months prior to the show.
What did it involve?
As Local Project Manager I oversaw the promotion
in all Nordic countries, including establishing
relationships with trade associations, working
with the convention bureau on the city´s
involvement, social events, identifying exhibitors
and sponsors and many more little details along
the way.
It was special
to be able to show
off our city and country
to colleagues from
all over the world.
What lessons did you learn in the role?
Staying on your project schedule is important for
such a big event that involves so many different
aspects, so having that to look back at now and
then was valuable. Also creating good relationships and
communication with the different stakeholders is obviously key
as well.
The SCAE Party, sponsored by BWT water+more, took place
at Liseberg Amusement Park on a sunny night in Gothenburg
Were you nervous before the show?
I would say I was more excited than nervous. Maybe
a bit nervous about the weather forecast, as you
can´t really trust the weather in Sweden. Sun just
makes everything so much more fun. We got a
bit of a mix in the end, which was OK!
How did it feel seeing all your plans come
together when the show opened?
I love that phase of a project when everything
comes together – plans turn into action and
reality. It was great.
What advice would you offer the team in Dublin and
other World of Coffee hosts in the future?
Establish good relationships with the convention bureau of the
city, hotel and restaurant associations, and other organisations
that take an interest in the show and can contribute. If the city
comes together, it creates a much better event.
What did staging the Nordic World of Coffee mean for
Gothenburg, Sweden and the Nordic region?
World of Coffee was quite a big event for Gothenburg and the city
was very proud to host it. The city is used to hosting big events but
I heard so many people say World of Coffee was special. It was
well organised and the crowd is a very passionate one.
For the coffee community in Gothenburg and Sweden, but also
the other Nordic countries, I believe it was very special to be able
to show off your city and country to colleagues from all over the
world. It also kept people on their toes having so many coffee
professionals visit their cafés and roasteries.
We established a great relationship with the Gothenburg
Restaurant Association, and many of their restaurants offered
special coffee experiences for the guests during the week.
This was something that not only made the restaurants look at
the coffee they are serving but also highlighted their coffee for
other diners.
◆
Shop with SCAE
Get all your Coffee Diploma System reading materials
and equipment from the SCAE Shop.
Members receive 10% off.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
The SCAE Shop collection includes (1.) SCAE ‘Aeropress Bundle’ (2.) Le Nez du Café, available with six or 36 aromas
(3.) V60 Dripper (4.) VST filters (5.) SCAE ‘Dripper Bundle’ (6.) Refractometer
(7.) Chemex 3-6 cup with wooden collar (8.+9.) SCAA Handbooks
Buy Online
You can access the SCAE Shop through our website at www.scae.com where you’ll find full listings of our products and
pricing. All shipping is calculated at point of order and is dependent on your location and the size of your order.
Please send any enquires to [email protected].
C O F F E E
D I P L O M A
Speciality African Coffees from Schluter
- Since 1858 -
For all your African coffee needs
We stock a full range of speciality coffee from the continent of Africa in store in the UK. We can deliver
quantities from single pallets upwards to any destination in the UK, Europe or across the world.
Malawi
Ethiopia
Tanzania
Rwanda
Burundi
Kenya
T: +44 (0)151 498 6500 | E: [email protected] | www.schlutercoffee.co.uk
Cameroon
DRC
Uganda

Water: why quality matters - Speciality Coffee Association of Europe

Transcription

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