Your Ragdoll`s - Orivet Genetic Pet Care

Your
Ragdoll’s
Genetic Health Book
2
Congratulations!
You’re about to discover the story of your cat’s history and genetic
health
Thank you for choosing the OriVet Genetic Health Book to uncover the story of Your Ragdoll’s genetic health.
Congratulations on taking the steps to learn about your cat’s unique nature and to understand her special
health needs. Knowing your cat’s unique genetic makeup is more than a novelty - it is a medical necessity.
Your cat’s breed is her ancestral genetic signature and carries unique health concerns much the same as
her age, sex and lifestyle. We believe that combining this knowledge enables you to provide a lifetime of
excellent care and live a happier life with your friend.
In this book, you will find detailed information specific to Your Ragdoll's health.
It is important to carefully review your entire report and discuss the results with your veterinarian to gain
the most value out of your cat’s Genetic Health Report. Your vet can help you use your report to help better
care for your cat. The next time you visit your veterinarian, consider taking this book with you and ask for
specific screening that may be available for your cat.
Dr. Noam Pik
Orivet Managing director
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Table of contents
Chapter 1
Ragdoll’s breed description, history, temperament and behavior, special
needs and requirements
Chapter 2
Genetic diseases and inherited disease information specific to Ragdoll
Chapter 3
Caring for your Ragdoll, a lifetime personalised wellness program
Chapter 4
Making your home a cat's paradise
Chapter 5
Cat nutrition
Chapter 6
Dental health
4
Ragdoll Traits
The Ragdoll is a very
quiet docile cat that
enjoys the quiet life
and makes a great
companion for people
who are home a lot.
The Ragdoll has a long
coat that is fine and
soft, and feels similar
to rabbit fur.
The Ragdoll is named
for its tendency to go
floppy in your arms.
The Ragdoll is a large
breed of cat, and
requires daily grooming
to keep her coat tangle
free.
Ancestral Genetics
5
Ancestral Genetics
History
The Ragdoll is a relatively new breed, having started development in
California, USA in 1960. The breed was initially bred by Ann Baker, starting
from a white, long-haired female cat named Josephine. It is likely that the
development of the Ragdoll used the breeding of various Burmese-like
and Birman-like cats. Ann Baker believed that Josephine was genetically
altered when treated at a nearby veterinary hospital after being hit by a
car, and that after this incident her kittens inherited the typical Ragdoll
docile, loving personality and the tendency to “go floppy” when picked
up. She also believed these kittens were immune to pain, and later came
to believe they carried human and other species genes, and were linked
to aliens.
Ann Baker contracted breeders and received a royalty from every
Ragdoll kitten sold. She also became increasing eccentric as years
went by, and she shunned traditional cat registries, preferring to
start her own, the International Ragdoll Cat Association (IRCA). She
also patented the name Ragdoll, so that only IRCA members could
legally use the name. A number of breeders became concerned
for the future of the breed, and some broke from the IRCA to
develop the Ragdoll breed independently. Denny and Laura Dayton
were amongst these breeders, and went on to play a major role
in turning the Ragdoll into a legitimate breed that was accepted
into all major cat registries.
Josephine with kittens
Today the IRCA is very small, and IRCA cats are not recognised by other cat
registries. Ann Baker has since died, and the patent on the name Ragdoll
has not been renewed. But despite the division and bitterness during her
lifetime, she will always be remembered as the founder of the Ragdoll breed.
General Breed
Description
The Ragdoll is one of the larger domestic cat breeds, with fully grown
females weighing approximately 4 to 7 kg, while mature males can
weigh from 5.5 to 9 kg. The Ragdoll has a semi-longhaired coat which is
soft and dense, and has been likened to rabbit fur. This coat is quite fine
and composed mainly of outer guard hairs, with little undercoat but that
does shed somewhat with the seasons. The eyes are a striking blue, set
in a distinctively marked face with a rounded muzzle and plump cheeks.
The ears are set wide apart on a broad head that is flat on top, and is in
proportion to the long muscular body and strong boned legs. The tail is
long and fluffy.
Seal Mitted Ragdoll
There are three coat patterns, the Colourpoint, Mitted and Bi-Coloured. The
Colourpoint has no white markings, and darker points than the general body
colour. Mitted has white front feet, back legs and white on the chin, bib,
chest and stomach, with possibly a narrow white blaze. The Bi-Coloured has
more white than the Mitted, with an upside down “V” over the forehead
and nose/chin area. The legs are white, as is the entire ventral body and
chest. There may also be a few white patches on the body.
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Ancestral Genetics
The Ragdoll comes in six colours (each in the above three patterns): seal
(a dark brown), blue and red, as well as the dilute versions of chocolate,
lilac and cream. The full colour can take 2 years to develop, and up to 4
years for the Ragdoll to reach full maturity.
Breed
Temperament
and Behaviour
The Ragdoll is a relaxed, laid back cat
named for a tendency to go floppy in your
arms when picked up. It is thought that this
is because she is either happy, or wants
to be put down. The Ragdoll is a happy
and quiet cat, known for her tolerance
with children and other animals. She is
gentle and content in most situations, but
Blue Point Ragdoll Kittens is happiest when with her owner, and will
tend to follow you from room to room. She
is a highly affectionate and loyal pet, and
while she loves nothing more than cuddles on the couch, she is intelligent
and can learn to play games like fetch.
Requirements
and Needs
The Ragdoll does require regular grooming to keep her coat in good
condition and free of tangles. A daily comb will prevent tangles and she
will enjoy the attention. The Ragdoll is considered a moderate shedder,
and can also have problems with hairballs if not regularly groomed to
remove loose hairs. Due to her docile, trusting nature, the Ragdoll should
be kept as an indoor cat to protect her from aggressive dogs and cats.
Best Suited to
The Ragdoll would best suit singles or older people looking for a quiet
companion cat. Quiet families with an older child may also find the
Ragdoll suited to their home. The Ragdoll will not mind a household with
comings and goings (e.g. of strangers or children).
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Genetic Disease
The list of diseases below was generated by reviewing the latest scientific literature. It
does not mean your pet will ever actually contract any of these diseases.
Please Note
The diseases listed are showing INCREASED RISK ONLY and are a result of calculations
comparing your cat›s details to studies published in the world literature on genetic risk
associated with this breed. This offers an opportunity to be on the lookout for these
conditions, diagnose them early, treat more effectively and in some cases even prevent
them.
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Genetic Disease
Most Common
and/or Most
Severe BreedPredisposed
Conditions
These are amongst the most common genetic and/or breed-associated
diseases and conditions seen in the Ragdoll, or are conditions that have
the most serious impact on the health and welfare of the Ragdoll. It does
not cover all the diseases that the Ragdoll may be prone to.
1. Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy (HCM)
Hypertrophic cardiomyopathy (HCM) is the most common heart condition in
cats, with familial (inherited) forms of the disease having been recognised in
a number of breeds. The disease in cats is similar to the disease in humans,
where more than 120 mutations located on 12 different genes have been
shown to be able to cause HCM. Ragdolls, Persians and Maine Coons are
amongst breeds with higher than normal rates of disease due to HCM.
To date genetic mutations have been characterised in the Ragdoll and Maine
Coon and genetic testing is available in these breeds. The mutations are
different in the two different breeds, but are both located in the myosin
binding protein C gene (MYBPC3). HCM may also occur in these breeds without
this particular mutation (i.e. due to a different mutation). The mutations
appear to be dominant genes, but with variable penetrance. This means
cats with two copies of the mutation tend to have a more severe disease
at an earlier age than cats with one copy of the mutation, who may not
develop signs of disease until late in life. Large scale studies estimate that
the Ragdoll breed has a prevalence of HCM of approximately 30%.
Screening for
hypertrophic
cardiomyopathy:
1. Recommend all
breeding animals undergo
DNA test at or before 1
year of age.
2. Echocardiography
at 1 year of age and
recommend yearly for
breeding animals. Also
perform on any cat with
abnormal auscultation
findings. Consider regular
screening echocardiogram
on any cat if owner is
concerned.
HCM causes abnormal thickening of the heart muscle, and this means that
the heart cannot function properly. Thickening of the ventricle of the heart
leads to stiffness of the ventricle, and the inability of the ventricle to relax
adequately for filling. Blood tends to become “backed up” in the atrium
and in the veins of the lungs. Eventually this increased blood in the lungs
leads to leakage of fluid into the air spaces, which is called pulmonary
oedema. When this happens, the cat has congestive heart failure. As well
as congestive heart failure, HCM can lead to arrhythmias (abnormal heart
rhythms) and sometimes this can cause sudden death without any prior
clinical signs of heart disease being seen. Another uncommon complication
of HCM is aortic thromboembolism, where a blood clot forms in the enlarged
left atrium and at some point is ejected from the heart and lodges in the
aorta - commonly where it narrows and branches to go to the hindlimbs.
This leads to a lack of blood flow to the hind legs, and causes paralysis
and is very painful. Clots may less commonly lodge elsewhere, such as in
the lungs or brain.
Diagnosis of HCM is based on a cardiac ultrasound (echocardiogram), and
should generally be performed by a specialist. There is no cure for HCM,
although if thickening of the heart muscle is secondary to another disease,
such as hyperthyroidism, treatment of the primary condition may resolve
the cardiac condition. Treatment of HCM aims to manage signs of congestive
heart failure, and reduce the abnormality of muscle relaxation as much as
possible. Recent studies have shown that calcium channel blockers (e.g.
diltiazem) have shown good results at improving heart function and blood
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Genetic Disease
flow around the body. Drugs to control arrhythmias are given if needed.
Therapy is often given to try to prevent blood clots from forming in the
heart (e.g. aspirin), although studies have shown that this treatment is not
all that effective, and will not get rid of clots that have already formed. This
treatment must be monitored carefully, as it can also lead to an increased
risk of bleeding.
2. Urolithiasis
Urolithiasis refers to disease caused by urinary tract stones (uroliths), most
commonly stones forming in the bladder. Urinary tract disease is common
in cats, and disease due to uroliths accounts for 10-25% of urinary tract
disease commonly seen in cats. Uroliths are made up of minerals that are
present in the urine, and it is thought that stones form when the urine is
saturated with minerals and these then precipitate and aggregate together
to form initially crystals, and then clump into stones.
Calcium oxalate crystals
in urine (from Minnesota
Urolith Center)
Up to half of uroliths in cats are of a type
called “struvite” stones, with another 3045% being “calcium oxalate” and smaller
amounts being composed of either urates
or purine. The type of urolith that is present
is important because different stones are
treated differently. Struvite disease is seen
more commonly in female cats and younger
to middle aged cats, although it can be seen
in any cat. Calcium oxalate tends to form
more in male cats and older cats, and the
Ragdoll breed seems to have a predilection
to form calcium oxalate stones.
Uroliths in the bladder irritate the lining of the bladder, and can cause
blood in the urine (haematuria) and pain and irritation, which can lead
to straining to urinate, frequent urination and urinating in inappropriate
places. Occasionally stones may become stuck in the urethra, causing
complete obstruction to urine flow. When this occurs it is an immediate
life-threatening emergency requiring prompt veterinary treatment.
Screening for
urolithiasis:
There is no screening
available for the
formation of uroliths. The
presence of crystals in cat
urine can be a perfectly
normal finding. Regular
urinalysis can help
monitor levels of crystals
in the urine.
Uroliths are diagnosed by your vet via clinical examination and diagnostic
imaging, such as x-ray or ultrasound. Urine (or preferably the stone itself)
should always be analysed to determine the type of stone present, as this
can affect the treatment required. In general, increasing a cat’s water intake
is the best way to help prevent urolithiasis. Feeding a wet diet increases
a cat’s water intake, which dilutes any minerals in the urine and has a
flushing effect on the urinary tract. (See the nutrition section for more
information). For some types of urolith a special diet may also be used to
treat (dissolve) the stones.
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Genetic Disease
3. Mucopolysaccharidosis VI
Mucopolysaccharidosis VI (MPS VI) is a type of storage disease and has been
noted to affect several breeds of cat, most commonly the Siamese. It has also
been seen with a higher than average frequency in the Ragdoll, apparently
mainly in those with Australian ancestry. The disease is caused by the lack
of an enzyme (arylsulfatase B) that normally breaks down certain cellular
products, leading to the incomplete break down of glycosaminoglycan,
which then accumulates within certain cells.
Two forms of MPS VI have been documented in cats, a mild form, and a
severe form. There are two specific genetic tests for the two types, called
MPS1 and MPSM (M for the mild form). In addition, a similar disease called
mucopolysaccharidosis VII (MPS VII) occurs in a number of pure breed cats,
and there is also a genetic test available for this disease (called the MPS7
test).
MPS VI causes a number of problems in affected cats. It affects the
development of the skeleton, with facial deformities seen as well as a
short body due to abnormal spinal bones, abnormal ribs and bones of the
legs, often affecting the flexibility of the limb joints. The hind legs may
be longer than the front legs, and some joints, such as the hip or carpus
(wrist) may be dislocated. Cartilage is also affected, and can cause a
progressive lameness which can eventually result in an inability to walk,
due to degeneration of the joint cartilage or sometimes due to spinal
collapse and paralysis.
Vision is also affected, due to accumulation of abnormal substances in the
retinal cells within the eye, as well as the outer cornea of the eye becoming
cloudy in appearance. Internal organs are affected, with enlargement of
organs such as the liver and spleen, and thickening of the valves within
the heart, which may result in heart failure and breathing problems.
Occasionally sudden death can occur.
Screening:
Genetic testing (all types)
for all breeding animals
prior to entering breeding
programs (e.g. at 6 - 12
months of age).
This disease is inherited as an autosomal recessive condition, and signs may
be seen from birth, or not for a number of weeks or months, depending
on the severity of the condition. The only treatment currently is expensive,
involving either enzyme replacement therapy, or a bone marrow transplant,
and most affected cats are euthanised. Recently, gene transfer therapy has
been performed successfully in cats without the need for immunosuppressant
treatment, and when used in young kittens has resulted in almost normal
growth and development. This is a very promising future line of treatment.
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Genetic Disease
Other Conditions
Which Are Less
Common or Less
Devastating In the
Breed
These conditions are also seen with a higher than usual incidence in the
Ragdoll. These conditions may not be as common as those covered in
more detail above, or may have less of an impact on the cat’s health and
welfare when they occur. This is not a complete list of every disease that
the Ragdoll may experience.
Gingivitis
Polycystic kidney disease
Predisposition to development of FIP (Feline Infectious
Peritonitis)
Possible predisposition to feline pancreatitis.
12
Caring For Your Ragdoll
13
Caring for your Ragdoll
Caring for your
Ragdoll
So, now you know a little bit more about your breed of cat!
Cats are wonderful companions, as any cat owner knows. There is
nothing quite like the comfort of a purring cat curled up on your
lap. Cats certainly are individuals, each with their own personality
and quirks that we, as their carers, must accommodate. All cats are
creatures of habit, and thrive on routine and familiarity. We need to
avoid upsetting the routine of our feline friends as much as possible,
or run the risk of any one of a multitude of stress and anxiety related
problems and illnesses.
In this guide we will outline some of the basic information that
will help you provide your cat with the care they require for a long,
happy and healthy life. We will focus on the very specific nutritional
needs of the cat, and we will also look in particular on the care and
requirements of the indoor cat. Responsible pet ownership means
that we must ensure that our cat is not just regularly fed, but that
she is safe, happy, healthy and protected from harm at all times.
Contrary to some commonly held beliefs, cats do not need to roam
to be happy. Indeed, a cat spends around 18 hours a day sleeping,
and is perfectly happy living an indoor life, especially if raised this
way from kitten hood. Studies have shown that the average lifespan
of an indoor cat is over 12 years, while that of an outdoor cat is less
than 5 years.
Outdoor cats are exposed to many risks, including traffic, dogs, the risk
of injury from other cats, the risk of exposure to infectious diseases
(such as FIV), as well as the risk from poisons (whether intentional
or not), snakebite and malicious injury from humans. Less than 5%
of cats that end up in shelters return to their homes, and less than
30% will be rehomed with another family. Almost all animal health
professionals and animal welfare experts agree that cats should be
housed indoors, due to the much greater health and welfare benefits.
For further information on responsible pet ownership,
. An
indoor cat can still explore the outdoors, either with the provision
of a cat run, or by training to use a harness and lead. This will be
covered in more detail later.
Healthy Cat Plan
We have looked at some of the more common and/or severe diseases
that your breed of cat may be prone to, and we will also look at how
you and your vet can plan together a preventative health initiative
to reduce the risks of your cat developing any of these illnesses, or
if she does to ensure that it is detected as early as possible, so that
it can be treated early with as little impact on your cat’s quality of
life as possible. Remember, just because these diseases are more
common in your breed does not mean she will necessarily go on to
develop any of them, it is just an increase in risk.
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Caring for your Ragdoll
Recommended schedule
for taking your Ragdoll to see your vet
AGE
What The Vet Does
Diseases Tested For
Other Things Done At This Visit
6-9 weeks
Full examination.
First vaccination for core
feline vaccines.
Check and treat parasites.
Kitten eye exam.
Check for heart murmurs.
Hearing test in white kittens.
12-13 weeks
Full examination.
Revaccinate all kittens every
3-4 weeks until 16 weeks of
age.
Full examination.
Final kitten vaccination
should occur at minimum age
of 16 weeks.
Ensure parasite control plan
in place.
Recheck eyes.
Check for heart murmurs.
Full examination.
Desexing is undertaken at
some time up to 6 months of
age.*
Annual full examination.
1st booster vaccination for
core vaccines.
Discuss non-core vaccine
requirement with your vet
(e.g. FIV).
Annual full examination.
Core vaccines recommended
to be given no more than
every 3 years (your vet will
discuss your cat’s individual
needs).
Annual full mature cat
examination.
Continue with individualised
vaccination plan as discussed
with your vet.
Examine teeth, joints etc fully whilst under
GA.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Discuss nutrition and kitten
care.
Discuss kitten kindy classes.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Kitten classes held between
12-14 weeks.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
If required prepare for
desexing - e.g. blood tests,
DNA testing, blood typing,
retroviral testing.
Weigh, assess body condition
and growth rate.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Weigh, assess body condition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
10-15 years
Full senior cat examination
every 6 months.
Add to minimum data base T4 and BP,
continue annually. #
Check heart.
Nutritional assessment.
15+ years
Full geriatric cat examination
every 6 months.
Continue minimum data base annually. #
Check heart.
Nutritional assessment.
16-17 weeks
12-26 weeks*
1 year
2-7 years
7-10 years
Recheck eyes.
Check for heart murmurs - fully investigate
any murmur present.
Eye check, heart check.
Consider retinal check - for hypertension.
Check heart.
Weigh, assess body condition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Consider retinal check - for hypertension.
Check heart.
Minimum data base collection annually CBC, Biochem panel, UA, faecal +/- T4, BP.#
Weigh, assess body condition,
muscle score.
Assess movement and
cognition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Weigh, assess body condition,
muscle score.
Assess movement and
cognition.
Discuss ongoing nutrition
needs.
Weigh, assess body condition,
muscle score. Assess
movement and cognition,
sleep cycle etc. Discuss
ongoing nutrition needs.
* Due to council laws in some Australian states, desexing before 3 months is required for reduced registration
fees, and hence may be requested more commonly than previously. Female cats can come into oestrus by
4 months of age, and many studies have shown no adverse health effects due to early desexing, however
your vet will assess the risks to your cat on a case-by-case basis.
# As recommended by American Association of Feline Practioners Senior Care Guidelines (2008).
Blue: This is the time when your cat is a kitten, a true child!
Green: This is when your cat is an adolescent, or young adult.
Yellow: This is when your cat is an adult.
Orange: This is when your cat is considered a “mature” (or middle-aged) cat.
Red: This is the time when your cat is a “senior”.
Purple: This is when your cat is considered to be “geriatric” (an old-timer!).
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Caring for your Ragdoll
Checked
√ Details
Note there can be some overlap in the ages at which your cat moves through the different life stages, just as there is for people. These coloured stages are a guide only.
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Cat’s Paradise
17
Cat's Paradise
Making Your Home
a Cat’s Paradise
A new cat or kitten in the house is a wonderful time, full of fun and new
discoveries for both your feline friend and you. However, there are several
essentials that you are going to need, to ensure that your cat settles in to
her new indoor home happily and with as little stress as possible.
1. The Litter Box
There are a number of types of litter box available, ranging from a basic
pan type, up to automatic self-cleaning boxes and litter boxes designed
to look like furniture items. Most cats will do fine with your basic plastic
pan type of litter box (also known as a litter tray, see Fig 1). Some cats
prefer the added privacy of covered litter boxes (see Fig 2), however many
will not use these as they feel trapped by them, and they do also require
more frequent cleaning, as odours tend to build up within them, which
may cause a cat (with her very sensitive sense of smell) to avoid using one
altogether. Some cats prefer to stand up to wee, and in this case a litter
box with tall sides is needed. This type of litter box may also be preferred
with a cat who loves to dig and throw litter all over the place while in the
litter box. A tall-sided litter box can easily be made by purchasing a large,
smooth-sided storage box (without wheels) and cutting out a doorway in
one end. This option also has the advantage of being roomier for your cat
to move around in. Be sure to smooth off the edges of the door once you
have cut it out – your cat will thank you for having such a spacious, well
designed bathroom! (See Fig 5a & 5b).
Fig 1. Basic pan-type litter tray
Fig 2. Covered litter box
Fig 4. Automatic self-cleaning box Fig 5a. Make your own highsided litter box from a storage
box – plenty of room, less mess
Fig 3. Litter box concealed as furniture
Fig 5b. Or you can buy a highsided litter box
18
Cat's Paradise
2. Litter
Various types of litter are available, and the type you use will largely
depend on your cats’ preference. Avoid scented litters, as these are likely
to be unwelcome to you cats very highly developed sense of smell. Also
avoid litters that tend to leave dust, as these may lead to respiratory
problems. Clumping litters should not be used for young kittens; if they
are accidentally ingested they can lead to intestinal blockage and possibly
death. Clumping litters may allow waste to be more easily removed from
an adult cat’s litter tray, or a quieter and less sharp litter, such as recycled
paper pellets, may be preferred. Offer several different types to see what
your cat prefers. Cats are creatures of habit, and in general you should
stick with one that your cat is happy with. Regardless, the litter box should
have waste cleaned from it at least twice a day, and should be completely
emptied and thoroughly cleaned at least once a week. Do not use bleach or
ammonia containing cleaners on the tray – bicarb soda or a mild detergent
will clean the tray and will not leave a smell behind that may put your cat
off using the tray in future! Just make sure you clean the tray/s thoroughly
and rinse all traces of detergent off them.
3. Food and Water
Your cat’s food and water bowls should be located in another “safe” place
(quiet and out of high traffic zones) well away from the litter box area.
Nobody wants to eat where they poop! Some cats can also be funny about
drinking where they eat, so it is a good idea to have several water bowls at
various locations around the house. We will discuss food and cat nutrition
separately later, but food bowls should be clean for each meal, and water
bowls cleaned with a small amount of detergent, rinsed thoroughly and
refilled each day. This prevents bacteria from building up on the inside
walls of the water bowl and fouling the water.
Bowls should be wide enough that a cat can drink freely without her
whiskers touching the sides of the bowl. Whiskers are sensory organs,
used by cats for navigating in the dark and helping them to orientate and
kill their prey with one bite. They are very sensitive to touch, and some
cats do not like the feeling of them touching the sides of the bowl, and
Fig 6. Ceramic water fountain
Fig 7. Stainless steel food bowls
19
Cat's Paradise
this may lead them to be reluctant to drink. Plates are sometimes a better
option than bowls for feeding. Ensure that bowls are not too big if you
have a kitten, so that she can easily reach her food and water, and that if
she falls in she can easily get out (of a water bowl).
All bowls should be slip resistant and heavy enough that they are hard
to tip over. Some cats like to play in their water when drinking, and it is
important that they cannot tip over the water bowl when doing so. These
cats may do very well with an automatic drinking fountain, as they seem
attracted by the constantly moving water, which may encourage them to
drink more. Ceramic fountains are also easy to clean and almost all varieties
come with filters for removing dust and dropped hair from the water (Fig. 6).
The best types of bowls for food and water are heavy ceramic or stainless
steel. Stainless steel is an excellent surface and can help keep water cool
in summer, but can be prone to tipping over, so ensure it has a well seated,
slip resistant base (Fig. 7). Plastic tends to develop microscopic cracks, and
these can harbour bacteria, which will resist cleaning. This can lead to a
skin condition similar to blackheads on your cats chin. If using plastic ware,
ensure that you replace it frequently. A rubber “cat dinner mat” under the
bowls also helps prevent bowls moving, and catches any spills.
4. Cat Furniture
Scratching is a natural behaviour for cats. It helps them to
remove the old outer sheath from their claws, and stretches
out their tendons and muscles. Scratching also leaves
scent marks, which helps them to mark their territory. You
cannot stop a cat from scratching, but by providing her
with scratching furniture, you can ensure that she does
not tear up your expensive couch or carpet! Some cats
prefer to scratch vertically (up a post) while others like to
Fig. 8. Cardboard scratching pad
scratch horizontally (along the floor). Scratching furniture
for cats comes in a large range of styles, and to suit all
budgets. At the bottom of the range there are “over the door” hanging
mats and cardboard mats for the floor (Fig. 8). These are great if you are
limited for space, or on a tight budget. You can even make your own out
of old cardboard boxes (see this link for a great
).
You have probably seen the traditional scratching post (Fig. 9), which often
comes covered in either carpet or sisal rope. Note that woven sisal fabric
tends to be a bit more “claw-friendly” than the rope, and I have certainly
known plenty of cats that refuse to use their nice new scratching post,
simply because they don’t like the sisal rope on it!
Fig. 9. Woven Sisal
Scratching Post
20
Cat's Paradise
There is now a huge variety of cat furniture available that not only caters to
the feline need to scratch, but also provides climbing and perching options
for your cat, as well as hiding spaces. These are often referred to as cat
trees or cat condos, and are the top of the range in cat furniture (Fig. 10).
Always ensure any cat furniture has a solid, heavy base and is not easy to
tip over. A cat perch, or elevated resting area, is another important piece
of cat furniture. Often placed near a window where a cat can look out and
watch the world go by, a perch provides the cat with somewhere where
she can rest up high, where she will feel safe, and look down on what is
going on around her. Of course, a cat tree is not necessary to provide this
requirement – a blanket or towel on top of a wardrobe or bookcase works
just fine as well!
Fig. 10a. Cat tree/condo
Cat Perch – with internal
hiding areas
Fig. 10b. Cat tower
Numerous websites advertise cat furniture
like those shown above, a popular site in
Australia is Funky Cat Feline Furniture – see
but a search for cat furniture
or scratching posts will turn up plenty of
options to look at.
A scratching post should be provided for
each cat in the house, and is best located in
communal/living areas, or in thoroughfares
leading to where the cat’s food and litter
is located (e.g. in the hall).
21
Cat's Paradise
5. The Bed
You will need to decide from the start whether you want your cat or kitten
to sleep in your bed or in her own bed. If you are happy to share your
bed, that is fine, but just remember that your cute new kitten will go on
to be a fully grown cat and will be sharing your bed for possibly 15 or
more years. The cat is a notorious bed hog, and many also make excellent
alarm clocks, ready with a purr and polite poke to the face if you happen
to sleep through breakfast time. If you decide you do not want to share
your bed with your cat, you need to provide her with her own bed right
from the start. Remember that cats are creatures of habit, and changes in
routine can lead to problems with stress and anxiety.
Fig. 11. Heated cat bed by
Kitty Kat Relax
(low level heat; 28°C)
You can buy a cat bed, but remember your cat will be just as
happy with a warm blanket or fleece in a box. Cats love to be
warm and snug, and kittens especially may need an extra source
of warmth in their bed at first. Some cat beds come with an inbuilt
heating pad (Fig. 11) – ensure that any heating source does not
heat above 41°C, as a cat’s skin is much more sensitive to heat
damage and burning than ours. Never use a running electric
blanket to warm a kitten, as this can lead to nasty burns. If you
need to provide a young kitten with heat, a wheat pack can be
warmed in the microwave and placed underneath her blankets
to provide somewhere warm to curl up to. Otherwise place her
bed near a heating vent so that the air around her does not get
too cold.
6. The Retreat/Refuge
All cats need to have somewhere they can retreat to and feel safe. This
should be in a quiet room away from the main traffic areas of the house,
where they have a safe and warm resting area. They should also have food,
water and litter available in this room, as well as a perch, and children
should be taught not to follow cats into the refuge area. Each cat should
have her own refuge area to which she can retreat and where she will
not be disturbed.
7. Environmental Enrichment
Cats do need exercise. Although they spend much of their time sleeping,
they do become bored, just as we do, if they have nothing to stimulate
them, and exercise is also important for their health and to help avoid
obesity. There are a multitude of toys available to entertain cats with,
and again, you can make cat toys out of the simplest household items.
Cardboard boxes are a favourite with many cats, as are aluminium foil
balls, ping pong balls and pipe cleaners or feathers tied to a piece of string
and pulled along the floor for them to chase. Some cats prefer “bird-like”
toys, for example swatting at airborne toys, while others are happiest with
22
Cat's Paradise
“mouse-like” toys that they can chase around on the ground. It is also a
good idea to have a variety of toys and to change between different toys
periodically for variety. It is important to make time to play with your cat
each day, and this will provide you will some good bonding time with your
cat as well as good exercise for her.
Tunnels, scratching posts and climbing furniture are all great
ways for cats to get some exercise whilst having fun, especially
in a multi-cat household. However, not all cats will get along
and want to play with each other, and if this is the case you
will need to spend time with each one individually, giving
them their own special “me” time for play and exercise.
Tunnels are great to play in
and many cats love them
There are a wide variety of products now available for cat entertainment
when you cannot be at home. DVDs can be purchased that are designed
to attract the attention of cats (e.g. swimming fish,
). The choice
for today’s cat lover is virtually never ending, and is only limited by your
imagination.
You may also wish for your cat to be able to experience the great outdoors
once in a while. Many companies now provide various types of cat runs,
which are designed to let your cat explore the back yard in complete safety
(Fig. 12). You can also build your own cat run. With some nylon mesh a
balcony, veranda or the side of a yard can easily be enclosed so that your
Feathers are popular toys
to chase
Fig 12. A balcony enclosure by Cat Walk City
23
Cat's Paradise
cat is able to explore the outdoors without being able to wander and get
into trouble.
also installs cat runs and balcony enclosures for
renters, which can be dismantled without leaving damage to the property.
Any outdoor enclosure should always have a shaded area for your cat to
rest in. Cats, just like us, can be affected by sunburn and can also develop
skin cancers. This tends to occur where the hair is thinnest, on the nose,
eyelids and ears, for example. Again, with cat enclosures, modular cat runs
and DIY projects of this type, you are only limited by your imagination. As a
student I purchased a cheap aviary shed at a second hand shop, furnished it
with tree stumps, a pot of cat grass and a couple of hand-made cat perches,
and my cats had a great little shaded outdoor run for less than $200.
A DIY cat enclosure at the front of a house using nylon mesh and steel
cabling from CatNets.com.au, which the cats access from a window.
See lots more cat enclosure ideas at the
You can also train a cat to walk on a lead with a harness (Fig. 13). Cats
generally will not “go for a walk” as a dog does, but they can go out and
explore the outdoors with you this way, and get a bit of extra exercise.
Training cats to a harness and lead is generally easiest when done as a
kitten. Some cats are just anxious about new things, and don’t cope well
with this, however many cats will do great if you take the training slowly.
Often the more outgoing breeds take to this training the best (e.g. a
Burmese). Like anything with cats, never force them to do something they
are not comfortable doing. See the following
24
Cat's Paradise
Fig 13. Cat harness and
bungee leash
Many people associated with cats will recommend that indoor cats have a
pot of “cat grass” available. Cat grass generally refers to the common oat,
although often wheat or barley is also sold at cat grass. Various theories
have been proposed as to why some cats like to eat young grass, but to
date there is no scientific validation as to why cats eat grass. It does not
appear to be a requirement for their health, but it probably does no harm
in small amounts either. Some cats will eat grass and then vomit, so this
is something to watch for if you are introducing cat grass into the house.
Usually cats will just nibble at the grass from time to time.
Catnip is a separate plant, distinct from cat grass, and is an herb from
the mint family. The leaves and stem contain nepetalactone, the main
active ingredient in catnip essential oil. Catnip produces a “high” in cats
that respond to it, and acts via special receptors located in the olfactory
epithelium. Hence it acts via the cat’s sense of smell, not by the cat eating
it. Not all cats respond to nepetalactone, and it is thought that the response
Cat grass
Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
25
Cat's Paradise
is inherited as a dominant trait in cats. Estimates vary widely, but suggest
that 10 – 40% of cats do not respond to the effects of catnip. This is believed
to be higher in cats in Australia and Asia, where as many as 60% do not
respond to catnip. Kittens also will not respond to catnip until between
3 – 6 months of age, and often show an aversion to catnip when young.
Catnip generally induces rubbing and rolling behaviour in cats (for an
example, see
), although some may become hyperactive, or become
aggressive and growl if approached. Catnip affects a number of wild cat
species as well as domestic cats. The effect will usually last around 10
minutes, after which time there will be a period of refractoriness, where
the cat will not respond again for 1 - 2 hours. Catnip is not harmful to your
cat, and they will not overdose on it – when they have had enough they
will leave it alone. You can grow catnip and offer small pieces to your cat
once in a while, or you can dry the leaves for use in toys. Many toys for
cats now will contain dried catnip, as an added attractant. Catnip is also
reported to repel cockroaches and mosquitoes, as well as rats and mice,
who supposedly will avoid places where it grows. Picked or dried catnip
loses potency over time, and will need to be replaced regularly.
A Word about Kittens
We have mentioned kittens above, but there is some information that
is important to cover specifically if you are bringing home a new kitten.
Apart from a warm bed, litter type and feeding, which we will cover in
Cat Nutrition, we also need to discuss the differences in kitten behaviour
and protecting your kitten from injury.
Kittens are very playful, and if they were with their mother and littermates
they would play fight a lot, as this is how they learn the skills of hunting. They
would also learn something called “bite inhibition” from their littermates
and mother, because if they hurt one of their feline family, this other cat
would let them know. A littermate would cry out and stop playing with
them, and their mother would discipline them if they were too rough with
their biting. It is very tempting for us to “play rough” with a small kitten,
however as this kitten grows bigger, they can very easily draw blood with
their sharp teeth and claws. It is confusing for your kitten if you play rough
with her initially, only to yell at her or stop allowing her to play with you
as she grows. You should decide early if you wish to allow your kitten to
engage in play fighting with you. Alternatives are soft toys provided for her
to “attack”. Some people wear gardening gloves so that they are protected
from their kitten’s teeth and claws.
26
Cat's Paradise
Be aware that play fighting is a normal behaviour for kittens, and some
will lie in wait for you and “attack” you from a hiding space. Aggressive
posturing is a normal learning phase for kittens, as can be seen in this
video (
).
Always remember that kittens are small and easily injured. They are also
quick and can have a tendency to get under your feet! If your kitten wants
to climb onto higher furniture, provide objects to allow her to get up and
down in a stepwise manner, as large jumps may injure her growing joints
and bones. Kittens are curious by nature, and learn by exploring and
experiencing their world. Do not try to stop a kitten climbing – rather,
ensure your kitten has a safe environment to climb and explore in.
This is also the time where your kitten will be most open to training for
things such as walking on a harness and lead, going in a carry box to “Kitten
Kindy”, and learning to have her teeth brushed (
).
All activities should be introduced as fun exercises, and you should never
scold your kitten if she is nervous or apprehensive about a new activity
– this will just reinforce that it is something unpleasant that she does not
want to do. Have patience and use treats, and always give your kitten a
safe retreat to go to if she is unsure.
A kitten kindergarten is a great place for your kitten to learn social skills,
begin training and gain confidence (Fig. 14). This is just as important for cats
as it is for dogs. You will also learn how to go about successfully training
your kitten. Generally these classes will only run for 2 or 3 weeks, as kittens
are only really open to this kind of social activity between around 7 and
14 weeks of age. “Kitten Kindy” is one Australian program designed by
veterinary behaviour specialist Dr Kersti Seksel. Contact your local vet or
the Australian Small Animal Veterinary Association (ASAVA) to see if there
is a Kitten Kindy at a clinic near you. These programs are now very popular
in the USA. You can read more about
Fig 14. Kittens at kindergarten class
27
Cat Nutrition
28
Cat Nutrition
Cat Nutrition
The first thing that we must remember is that the cat is a strict carnivore,
and so relies upon nutrients found solely in animal tissues to meet her
specific nutritional requirements. The cat has evolved eating a diet of
mainly small rodents, as well as birds and small lizards, and in her natural
desert environment would typically have eaten 8 - 10+ small meals a day.
This diet was high in protein, contained a moderate amount of fat, and
was low in carbohydrate (see table 1).
Table 1. Ideal/Natural Cat Diet
(% of calories)
Protein
Fat
Carbohydrates
Moisture
Calcium
Phosphorus
Fibre
More than 50
30 - 40
< 10
(% of diet, approx.)
60 - 70
1.2
1.0
1.2
More and more specialists in feline internal medicine now recommend
feeding cats a diet of canned (moist or wet) cat food, and NOT dry
kibble. There are three main reasons why dry food is not considered an
appropriate food for cats:
1. The water content is too low (most important!).
2. The carbohydrate content is too high.
3. The type of protein is inappropriate (i.e. plant-based instead of animalbased protein).
Without looking at specific brands of canned cat foods, think in terms of
the broad principle that ANY canned food is better than ANY dry food.
Many cat food companies (and some vets) will tell you that all wet food
diets will lead to dental disease and that you must feed dry food to avoid
this - in their natural environment this is not how cats clean their teeth!
Cats keep their teeth clean mainly by tearing into fresh meat, with a
smaller contribution from crunching the bones of the occasional larger
kill (Most small kills such as mice are eaten virtually whole). A cat’s saliva
is also well designed to keep her teeth clean, if her diet is appropriate
for her as a carnivore. Feeding occasional large pieces of cooked meat
(without bones) is one way to help keep your cat’s teeth clean. We will
cover dental health more later.
29
Cat Nutrition
Dogs, being omnivores like us, do require some meat protein in their diet,
but they have evolved essentially as scavengers, and are able to utilise
nutrients found in plants as well as animals. Cats are very different to
dogs. They lack many of the enzymes and metabolic processes within
the body that allow dogs to process nutrients from plants. Cats are also
unable to make for themselves many of the essential nutrients that
dogs can synthesise within their bodies - such as essential amino acids,
vitamins, and fatty acids. An example of this is vitamin D - cats cannot
convert vitamin D to its active form in the skin with exposure to UV light
from the sun, as dogs and people do. They must eat active vitamin D,
which is found in animal tissues.
Cat Food - What to Feed?
So what should we really be feeding our cats? With the widespread use of
the internet and the ready access to a wealth of information it provides,
the question then arises as to what information is accurate and reliable?
There are a vast number of websites claiming to have “expert” opinion on
what to feed cats, how to make food for cats, and even how to feed cats
a vegan diet! Being an obligate carnivore means that the cat is obligated
to eat meat to get the nutrients that she needs to survive and thrive. Be
careful of misleading internet sites on this topic, however well-meaning
they may be. For a good, detailed discussion on cat nutrition if you would
like further information on the topic, please see the articles written by Dr
Lisa A. Pierson at www.catinfo.org or speak to your vet.
The first question we need to address is commercial food vs. homemade
diets. The formulation of a homemade diet that is complete and balanced
for the cat is very challenging, for the following reasons:
• The cat has very specific and complex nutritional requirements, due
to the fact that the cat is unable to make sufficient amounts of many
nutrients for herself.
• Nutrients, especially vitamins and minerals, need to be present in the
correct ratios to one another.
• The diet must be palatable (that is, the cat must like the taste of it
and want to eat it).
• Nutrients such as thiamine can easily be lost by cooking, or by using
certain ingredients such as raw fish or “pet mince” - which may
contain sulphur dioxide, a preservative that destroys thiamine.
• Spoilage and bacterial contamination can easily occur without correct
preparation and storage.
If you have a strong desire towards home cooking for your cat, Dr Pierson
does have some information on this on her website. We will not cover it
here, as it generally is too difficult to do well for most cat owners.
30
Cat Nutrition
Commercial Cat Foods
Commercial cat foods do vary widely in their quality, but with a little care
you can obtain a decent range of food that is of good quality and that
your cat will enjoy. Cats can become very attached to the flavour of fish,
to the exclusion of all other foods. However, many feline nutritionists do
not recommend feeding fish to cats. Certainly you should not feed raw
fish to cats, as raw fish contains thiaminase, which destroys the essential
B vitamin thiamine. Cooking the fish inactivates the thiaminase, but may
also destroy the thiamine. Also, fish may contain certain chemicals (called
PBDEs) which have possible links to hyperthyroidism in cats.
So the basic things that we need to look at in the cat food we buy is the
protein level in a food, the type of protein that is present (i.e. to ensure
that the protein comes from animal sources, not grain or vegetable) and
that it is fully balanced with all the vitamins and minerals that our cat
requires.
The easiest way to choose a good cat food is to check the ingredient
list and pick one that does not contain grains or cereals, contains
protein from animal sources such as chicken, turkey or duck (try to
avoid fish all the time), preferably does not contain by-products, is
a tinned (wet) food and is complete and balanced. Some companies
will publish additional information on their website, which can be
useful to help you select a good quality food.
31
Cat Nutrition
Grain free cat food tins are available in the supermarket if you look.
Beware that many may contain fish and/or by-products. By-products are
the parts of the animal that are not meat, and may include things like
feet, beaks, feathers etc. Hence foods containing animal by-products do
not contain proteins with as high a quality as those that do not contain
by-products
Lastly, always ensure that the food is fully balanced. This will be stated
on the label somewhere, and if there is no statement that the food is
complete and balanced for the growth and/or maintenance of cats, then
you must assume that it is not a complete food for cats, and should only
be used occasionally (as an example: Fancy Feast Royale/black label, VIP
Fussy Cat Fresh Mince are not a complete and balanced foods for cats).
How much should I feed?
In Australia good quality canned cat food comes in a variety of sizes,
ranging from 85g single serve tins or pouches up to 375g tins or larger.
Adult cats require between 150 - 250 kcal per day (kcal is short for
kilocalories, commonly referred to simply as calories). An 85g single serve
tin of cat food may contain, on average, 60 - 80 kcal. Many companies will
publish the calorie content of their foods on their website. Alternatively
you can refer to published tables, or contact the company directly for this
information.
For a list of the nutritional profiles of some Australian tinned cat
foods, see the attached table of Canned Cat Foods (Appendix I).
Because the amount of food that a cat needs varies depending on the
cat’s diet, activity level, age, size and genetic factors, the best way to feed
your cat is to feed enough to maintain your cat in an ideal body condition.
This means using the above calorie requirements, or the feeding guide
provided by the cat food manufacturer as a starting guide, but adjust
how much you feed to ensure that your cat is not over or underweight.
You can check with your vet if you are unsure how to check this, but your
cat should have good muscle coverage over her bony points (head, hips,
back etc), with a definite but minimal layer of fat under the skin. The ribs
should be easy to feel, but not sticking out.
Cats normally would eat many small meals a day. The closer you can
replicate a cat’s normal pattern of eating the better, so an adult cat should
be fed a minimum of 2 - 3 times a day (More is better if you are able to
do so). Always give each meal fresh, do not leave out old food or keep
uneaten food to be fed later - it is great for breeding bugs and the food
will quickly spoil.
32
Cat Nutrition
Kittens and Nutrition
While kittens do not specifically require a special diet compared to
adult cats (just more of it for their size), kitten food often has a higher
quality of protein in it (i.e. less or no grains or vegetables) and hence can
sometimes make a better food for cats of all life stages. Kittens have a
smaller stomach capacity, and a shorter intestinal length and capacity to
process food, and need to be fed more often than adult cats. Start off by
feeding a kitten 6 - 8 times a day, and then start to reduce the number
of meals after your kitten is around 4 months old. By 1 year of age your
kitten can generally be eating an adult number of meals. If your kitten
does not eat an entire meal, do not put it in the fridge for later. It should
be thrown out and fresh food should be given at the next meal. Bacteria
start to breed quickly on food and spoiled food can cause tummy upsets
and diarrhoea.
Mature Cats
It is worth noting that cats have another notable difference from dogs
and other animals in that once they get older, they actually require more
energy in their diet. This happens from around 8-10 years of age onwards,
and occurs for several reasons. Their appetite may also start to wane as
they age. It is important as your cat is getting older to be watching for
weight loss and signs of reduced appetite, and ensure that your cat has
regular health checks with your veterinarian. Older cats may require more
frequent meals, and may require further encouragement to eat, such
as warming of the food to make it more appealing. In order to ensure
she receives enough protein and energy, your vet may even prescribe a
specific diet for your cat as she ages.
33
Dental Health
34
Dental Health
Dental Health
It is important not to neglect the cleanliness of your cat’s teeth and the
health of your cat’s mouth. The Veterinary Oral Health Council approves
a range of products that have been shown to clinically aid in reducing
plaque and/or tartar in cats (and dogs). Available in Australia are Feline
Greenies® which are treats that your cat can chew on. Toys for your cat to
play with and chew on also help improve the health of her teeth and gums.
The Australian Veterinary Dental Society (AVDS) does not recommend the
feeding of bones (cooked or raw) to dogs and cats, as they can cause
tooth fractures and various digestive problems.
It is also recommended by the AVDS that you train your kitten to allow
you to brush her teeth. This is not as hard as it sounds, if you get her used
to it from a young age.
Always ensure that you keep things fun for your cat - take it slow, and
keep things positive. Do not overly restrain your cat, and make sure you
praise her lots! So the first step is for her to get used to having something
put in her mouth. Make sure you keep all sessions short - cats have a
fairly short tolerance span, especially to start off.
First, you will need a flavour your cat likes. Dip your finger into something
like a chicken or tuna mush (made from food and water) or something
similar. Call your cat as though you have a treat for her, then let her lick
the flavour from your finger. Gently rub the finger over her teeth and
gums, initially only for a second or two. A good idea is to start with the
canines, as they are easy to reach. She should quickly get used to this and
even look forward to it, and you can very gradually extend the time you
can rub her teeth until you can rub along both sides of her mouth.
35
Dental Health
Once your cat is comfortable with this, and you have been praising her
and not pushing her, you are ready for the next step. Place some gauze
dipped in the preferred flavour over your finger. Rub the gauze gently over
the teeth in a circular motion, again starting off with very short periods,
and gradually extending the time taken as your cat will tolerate it.
Your cat will now need to get used to the texture of the toothbrush you
are going to use. You may choose to use a soft brush, a pad or a dental
sponge. All are specifically designed to be used in cats. Some recommend
cotton buds, but the cotton bud at the tip can sometimes come off the
plastic stick in your cat’s mouth, leading to aversion. A small pad that fits
over the finger tip generally works well. Your cat should be allowed to lick
something tasty that she likes off the toothbrush until she is completely
familiar with the brush to be used.
Next she will need to get used to the toothpaste that will be used. This
may be a specific gel or rinse designed to reduce plaque and tartar from
a cat’s mouth. Flavours available include poultry, malt, beef and seafood.
Never use human toothpaste - these contain harsh chemicals and are not
designed to be swallowed, and your cat will not appreciate the taste!
C.E.T. Enzymatic toothpaste by Virbac Animal Health
Once all these steps are completed (and this may take a few months or
more) your cat is now ready for some actual tooth brushing. As with all
steps, take it slow - start with the canines and work up from there - and
keep the sessions short and fun. Never push your cat, and make sure
brushing is fun for your cat, with lots of praise. Brushing should generally
not take more than around 30 seconds, and can be performed several
times a week.
36
Dental Health
Logic Oral Hygiene Gel for dogs and cats, with applicators
from Cornell University.
It is generally recommended to have a check up with your vet before
you start brushing your cat’s teeth to ensure that there is no underlying
gum to tooth disease. This may be painful and cause your cat to reject all
attempts at introducing brushing. It is important to start with a healthy
mouth, and have a regular check up with your vet at least once a year.
Taking it slow is probably the most important secret to success in brushing
your cat’s teeth. If your cat has been doing well with brushing but suddenly
starts to resent it, this may indicate that she has pain somewhere in the
mouth, and she should see her vet for a check up straight away. Do not
keep pushing attempts at brushing if your cat is resentful, as this can lead
to lifelong aversion.
C.E.T. Oral Hygiene Chews
for Cats
37
APPENDIX I
38
APPENDIX I
Table of Canned Cat Foods
Food Type
IDEAL CAT DIET
Royal Canin Instinctive 12
in Jelly, Pouches 85g
Royal Canin Instinctive 12
in Gravy, Pouches 85g
Royal Canin Instinctive 7+
Years, 85 g Pouches
Royal Canin Aging +12,
85g Pouches
Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine
Lamb 170g
Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine
Venison 170g can
Ziwipeak Daily Cat Cuisine
Venison & Fish 170g can
Advance Adult Tray 100g
Advance Kitten Tray 100g
Advance Adult Light
Formula 100g Tray
Hills Science Kitten Liver &
Chicken 85g/156g
Hills Science Feline Adult
Turkey 156g
Hills Science Feline Indoor
Adult Savoury Chicken
156g
Hills Science Feline Light
Chicken and Liver 156 g
IAMS Kitten Pouches* 100g
IAMS Adult Chicken
Pouches* 100g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Ocean Whitefish & Salmon
Entree* 85g
% calories coming from
Total calories
(kcal/kg)
Phosphorus
(% DMB)
Protein (%)
Fat (%)
Carbohydrates (%)
>50
30 – 40
<10
57
38
5
817
1.05
55.5
31.5
13
825
0.98
53
26
21
789
0.95
43
41
16
867
0.12
33
63
4
1113
1.31
35
63
2
1105
1.76
38
58
4
1053
1.36
42
33
54
66
4
1
850
1200
1.25
2.0
44
50
6
750
1.25
40
47
13
1343
0.95
28.6
45.4
26.0
1039
0.73
30.3
48.4
21.3
1076
0.65
34
33
33
884
0.69
35
46
19
810
-
31
46
23
810
-
48*
48*
4
1027
2.13
1.0
39
APPENDIX I
Table of Canned Cat Foods (continue)
Food Type
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Chicken & Liver Entree*
85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Chicken & Rice Entree* 85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Tuna Entree* 85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Adult
Turkey & Giblets* 85g
Purina Pro Plan Cat - Kitten
Chicken & Liver Entree*
85g
Artemis Turkey 156g**
Artemis Cat Salmon 156g*
EVO Turkey & Chicken
Formula Cat & Kitten 156g
or 375g
EVO 95% Chicken & Turkey
Canned Cat Food 156g or
375g
EVO 95% Venison Canned
Cat Food 156g or 375g
Innova Cat & Kitten
Canned Food 85g, 165g,
375g cans
Innova Lower Fat Canned
Adult Cat Food 85g, 156g,
375g
Innova Senior Canned Cat
Food 85g, 156g, 375g
cans
WHISKAS Meat Pouches
WHISKAS Casserole
Pouches
WHISKAS Mince Pouches
WHISKAS Kitten Pouches
% calories coming from
Protein (%)
Fat (%)
Carbohydrates (%)
Total calories
(kcal/kg)
Phosphorus
(% DMB)
44*
53*
3
1139
1.87
46*
38*
16
830
0.95
48*
38*
14
801
1.06
46*
47*
7
936
1.13
40*
57*
3
1136
1.96
29
39
65
52
6
9
1700
810
---
33
62.7
4.3
1283
1.3
25
72.7
2.3
1350
0.88
30
64.5
5.5
1400
2.1
33.5
58.5
8
1287
1.35
37
44
19
972
1.66
34.5
51.5
14
1226
1.3
36.2
58.6
5.2
800
1.33
33.1
49.2
17.7
800
1.45
39.1
24.6
59.4
61.9
1.5
11.7
800
1000
2.22
2.0
40
APPENDIX I
Table of Canned Cat Foods (continue)
Food Type
DINE Meat 85g
DINE Fish 85g
Fancy Feast White Label
Roast Chicken 85g can
Fancy Feast White Label
Ocean Whitefish and Tuna
85g can
Fancy Feast White Label
Ocean Whitefish and Tuna
85g** (US)
Fancy Feast White Label
Cod, Sole & Shrimp 85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Grilled Chicken Feast
85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Grilled Beef Feast 85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Flaked Chicken and Tuna
Feast 85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Savoury Salmon Feast
85g**
Fancy Feast White Label
Kitten - Turkey 85g*
Felidae Grain Free Pure
Elements 156g
Felidae Grain Free Pure
Sea 156g
AvoDerm Chicken Formula
All Life Stages Cat Food*
156g
California Natural
Chicken & Brown Rice
Formula Cat & Kitten 85g,
156g, 375g
% calories coming from
Protein (%)
Fat (%)
Carbohydrates (%)
Total calories
(kcal/kg)
Phosphorus
(% DMB)
30.8
61.9
65.4
31.6
3.8
6.5
750
800
2.06
3.2
49
30
21
930
--
49
30
21
960
--
49
48
3
1020
--
52
46
2
991
--
56
26
18
873
--
55
27
18
885
--
47
45
8
1161
--
46
51
3
1020
--
48
48
4
880
--
28.3
62.5
9.2
1161
0.91
30.4
61.8
7.8
1165
0.91
36
60
4
1195
--
28
64
8
1167
1.4
Assumptions: Protein and carbohydrates contain 3.5 kcals per gram, and fat contains 8.5 kcals per gram.
41
APPENDIX I
* Indicates values estimated from “guaranteed analysis” (which is much less accurate) after multiple attempts
to obtain information from manufacturer were unsuccessful. If a company/manufacturer is not listed at all, this
indicates information could not be obtained or was not usable. (Columns with -- indicates information unavailable/
not provided)
** Data obtained from US tables/analysis. (May not be accurate in Australia, as illustrated by Fancy Feast Ocean
Whitefish and Tuna variety listed. Some US data may also be out of date/several years old.)
NB: Specific Whiskas and Dine varieties not provided by Mars Petcare - information provided as given by Mars
Petcare 2013.
Disclaimer: The information provided here is based upon information provided by the pet food manufacturer or that
published on their website, and no responsibility is taken for its accuracy or otherwise. Where a manufacturer would
not provide information other than the “guaranteed analysis” that is part of the minimum labelling requirements for
pet food, if sufficient information was available to estimate a carbohydrate fraction from this, then this calculation
was performed, however it is acknowledged that this method is highly unreliable due to the inherent unreliability
of the information given in a “guaranteed analysis”. This inaccuracy is understood, and this information is only
included for comparison where a company would not provide more detailed information after repeated requests,
or no contact details could be sourced.
This is not intended to be a comprehensive table of all foods available in Australia. Rather, it provides a range of
examples from different manufacturers to provide a basic overview of available commercial cat foods. Information
provided and assumed correct as of August/September 2012 - March 2013.
The coloured numbers in the table refer to values that are significantly higher or lower than what would
be wanted in an “ideal” cat diet. Orange numbers are moderately divergent from ideal values, while
red values are very significantly different from what would be wanted in an ideal cat diet. Phosphorus
content has been highlighted arbitrarily over %2 (on a dry matter basis) to highlight diets that have
particularly high levels of phosphorus, which is especially important for older cats.
As can be seen from the table above, there are few commercial diets that fit the profile of an “ideal” cat
diet (the one that does is highlighted in blue) so some tradeoffs must be made to get a diet that a cat will
eat and that gives the best possible profile with respect to the important categories.
42
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