A R T O F T H E V I N E
Transcription
A R T O F T H E V I N E
A R T F RA N CE . A RG E N T I NA O F . T H E C H I L E V I N E . P O R T U G A L . SP A I N . CONTENTS "Wine is the most civilized thing in the world " François Rabelais François Lurton represents the fifth generation of grape growers in this large family that has been vigneron in Bordeaux since 1897. François Lurton, introduction .............................................................. p.1 Chronology.............................................................................................p.2 France, François Lurton’s Estates............................................................ p.4 Mas Janeil, AOP Côtes du Roussillon........................................................p.4 Château des Erles, AOP Fitou ...............................................................p.10 Les Fumées Blanches, “Le” Sauvignon Blanc par François Lurton ..........p.14 Argentina, Bodega Piedra Negra ......................................................... p.16 Chile, Hacienda Araucano.................................................................. p.24 Spain, Bodega El Albar Lurton ........................................................... p.30 Bodega El Albar Lurton, DO Rueda, VDT Castilla y Leon ..................p.32 Bodega Burdigala, DO Toro ..................................................................p.36 François Lurton’s wines, eco-responsible company................................ p.38 François Lurton and Biodynamy ........................................................ p.40 I n 1985, having finished his studies François Lurton had an initial experience as commercial and marketing director of his father’s wine company, André Lurton. In 1988, in partnership with his brother Jacques, they set up a consulting firm. From Moldavie to Mendoza and from Spain to Australia, they were constantly on the lookout for wine producers, wine merchants and retailers able of replying to the recurring demands of their consumers and clients : Marks & Spencer, Tesco, Hardy’s, Sainsbury… As a result of their endless discoveries, they chose to settle down and produce their own wines in five different countries. In 2007, they decided to reorganize their respective patrimonies and François became the major shareholder in the company, which was renamed François Lurton SA. This new direction allowed him to go back to his own roots and spend more of his time in the vineyards and in the cellars so as to be even more implicated in the making of his wines, through all the stages of their production and so as to guarantee high quality levels. François Lurton continues, with energy and creativity, to aim to make the best wine possible on each of his wine making ‘terroirs’. F. L U R T O N Chronology 4 70 150 different wines in our ranges. François Lurton is present in 4 countries (France/Spain/Chile/Argentina). 1988 Foundation of the company. 90% 10 full-time oenologists in people, including France, Argentina, Spain and Chile. group turnover ourside of France, and 10% in France. 235 hecatres of vines under ownership and an additional 300 hectares under operating contracts. 2 1988 1991 1992 1996 1997 Foundation of the consulting firm Jacques & François Lurton. Contract with Nicolas Catena, in Argentina. Beginning of the collaboration with Vina San Pedro, Argentina. Acquisition of the first plot of vines at Vista Flores, Argentina. Creation of the Gran Araucano brand in Chile. 1998 2000 2001 Creation of “Les Fumées Blanches”. Acquisition of Hacienda Araucano, Lolol Valley, Chile. first vintage of Campo Eliseo Start of the Château des Erles exploitation, AOC Fitou, France. with Michel and Dany Rolland, DO Toro, Spain. Viña 2004 2006 End of the construction of the new argentinian cellars. Acquisition of Quinta Beira Douro, DOC Douro, Portugal. F R A N Ç O I S LU RTO N Chile 2007 2008 Jacques’s departure: François becomes the major shareholder of the company. Acquisition of Quinta Do Malhô, DOC Douro, Portugal. 2009 Construction of the Bodega El Albar Lurton cellars, DO Rueda, Spain. Acquisition of Mas Janeil, AOC Côtes du Roussillon Villages, France, after 10 years of renting. 2012 Creation of the Eco-Responsible charter in our estates. Sale of the Portuguese estates. Creation of the sparkling “Les Fumées Blanches”. FRANCE 4 Mas Janeil estate AOP Côtes du Roussillon-Villages In the mid 1980’s, François and Jacques Lurton, originally from the ‘Entre Deux Mers’ region, are on the lookout for new vineyards for the family production. They learn of the wonderful potential of the ‘terroirs’ of southern France. T hey start to purchase for their varietal wines, that are distributed the world over, and establish privileged relationships with numerous wine makers in the area. In 1996, François falls in love with the Grenache wines from Mas Janeil and in 2008 he goes on to buy the property. The ‘terroir’, composed of schist, allows the bunches to reach a perfect state of maturation, which in turn, gives the wines flavors of cherry and wild spices, concentration and elegance. FRANCE 6 In 1996, captivated by the Vallée de l’Agly and its stunning landscapes, the two brothers took the plunge and rented an estate by the name of Mas Janeil, with land spread between Maury and Tautavel. T he old Grenache vines of this estate very quickly showed all their potential as well as their different characteristics. As the Mas Janeil vineyard straddles a geological fault, there is a wide variety of different types of soil. At the foot of the Château de Quéribus, the soil is essentially composed of limestone and granite, whereas the “Pas de la Mule” land features considerable shale. aop Côtes du Roussillon, Côtes du Roussillon-Villages After ten years of tax farming, François eventually bought Mas Janeil in 2008. He built a new wine storehouse on this site and partially reinstalled an old irrigation system. The production alternates between “single-terroir” and blended wines. FRANCE 8 Produced in the Côtes du Roussillon, in Tautavel, this wine from Mas Janeil is made without sulphur in order give the best possible expression of the terroir. The aromatic range of red and black fruit delivers all of its power and richness in this dark, garnet coloured wine. On the palate the tannins are fresh and well integrated, with a voluptuous, harmonious finish. A blended wine made with four grape varieties: Monastrell, Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. This wine is the heart and soul of the estate and the most representative of its qualities. Mas Janeil matures in barrels for almost twelve months and then requires two or three years bottled before being ready for tasting. This vineyard, sitting on chalky soil, is located on the Le Mas heights facing to the south, and temperatures consequently soar in summer, but it nevertheless produces wines featuring considerable minerality. François was totally convinced that the Vallée de l’Agly, with its terroirs and grape varieties, was an outstanding region for producing white wines, and he has demonstrated it by producing this fine wine, a charming blend of Grenache blanc, Genache gris and Macabeu. They all ferment in a demi muids, a large oak barrel. A fruit-driven wine, generously round and fresh, made with Carignan and Grenache grapes vinified by the carbonic maceration method. It is a relaxed wine best drunk young and cool. Two other wines can be added to this list, both produced with the same philosophy: Les Hauts de Janeil Syrah Grenache and Les Hauts de Janeil Grenache Sauvignon. Very old trellised Grenache plants perched on a shale rock-fall at the foot of an old passage (pas) between Corbières and Roussillon. These vines are truly outstanding and give life to a rare wine. FRANCE 10 Le Château des Erles AOP Fitou In 2001, Jacques and François fell in love with a vineyard in Villeneuve les Corbières situated in the Fitou terroir. Bordering on to the Corbières region and located on deep shale soil, this 25-hectare vineyard is divided into two areas: one to the north-west of the village (Les Abrigans) and the other to the south (Les Ardoises). This is where they created the “Château des Erles”. T hey began producing here in partnership with Ms. Lahire Bergez, but she stopped working with the brothers in 2006 and they have continued to run the estate since as a duo. FRANCE 12 A Syrah/Grenache/Carignan blended wine, barrel-matured mainly coming from the old vines of the Les Ardoises vineyard. the estate’s outstanding wine only produced in the best years. Beautiful deep red color. Very expressive nose. Slighty jammy black fruits. Spices (thyme), associated with roasted coffee notes. Good equilibrium in the mouth, with round tannins. Sweetness with a lingering finish and fruity toasted aftertaste. Fresh, fruity wine from the vineyard, completely reworked, bearing the same name. A young, lively dynamic Fitou. FRANCE 14 Born amidst the Sauvignon vines, between the Entre Deux Mers and Pessac Léognan regions, François has always been particularly fond of this grape variety. In 1998, he brought together some of the finest Sauvignon grapes picked in the Languedoc, giving them the name “Fumées Blanches”. I nspired by the morning mist that stretches right across the foot of the Pyrenees, this name conjures up a picture of freshness. It has become one of the largest selling French Sauvignon Blancs in the world in the space of just ten years. What is its secret? A combination of different terroirs and consequently different aromas, each one carefully selected: the special smell of citrus fruits, tropical notes, minerality … enabling this delicate variety to illustrate its rather complex nature. The François Lurton sauvignon blanc The very latest wine-making techniques are used to preserve the quality of the carefully chosen and tasted grapes: pneumatic presses using inert gas, pellicular maceration etc. When carrying out tests on inerting and carbonic gas dissolved in the wine, we have recently realised the real strength of the variety’s aroma when a little gas is added: we have therefore decided to produce a new, slightly sparkling wine with it. ARGENTINA 16 The beginning of the adventure FR ARGENTINA AN ÇOIS LURT O N of the end of the world François and his brother Jacques started making wine in Argentina in 1992. After much searching they found what they were looking for in the Alta Uco Valley an area of majestic natural beauty at the foothills of the Andes. A lthough nothing more than a semidesert they were the fi rst to recognize the potential of this area for the vine growing ; they could benefit from the quality of the terroir, the virgin lands set in altitude, the continental climate and the presence of a pure source of underground water coming from the melted snow from the Andes Mountains. They analyzed the land and then sought out the help and advice of their experienced father, Andre Lurton to confi rm their choice. ARGENTINA 18 True pioneers, they embarked on the new venture purchasing 200 hectares of this virgin land in 1996. A modern winery and offi ces were built as the result of a major investment plan, very unusual for Argentina, located in the center of the vineyards, one hour drive from Mendoza. Wide variations in night and daytime temperatures (10 to 40°C in the summer), a lot of sunshine during the day, but as the sun descends the high altitude makes night temperatures fall dramatically which spreads out the growing season, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly. C The risk of hail is a constant problem, making it necessary for the vines to be protected by nets. ultivated for the first time, they were able to leave this poor but well-drained soil in its natural state: the PH was perfect and no chemical input was required. The nearby mountains provide cool nighttime temperatures, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and reach optimal ripeness. The result yields are naturally very low and of extremely high quality. High-density planting (6000 vines/hectare and more) and short pruning are practised to ensure a low yield per vine. In the semi-desert environment, irrigation is used to prevent water stress and is managed to allow wines to create deep roots. FR ARGENTINA AN ÇOIS LUR TO N Vallée de Uco Mendoza Continental climate (hot and dry in the summer, very cold and wet in winter) with average rainfall of less than 200mm. Today the Uco Valley is peppered with famous names and has become «the most talked about wine region in Argentina, and arguably the whole of South America. » (Tim Atkin, Decanter Magazine). Situated at the foothills of the Andes, Valle de Uco appears black up against the snow covered volcanic summits, leading it to be called «Piedra Negra» (black stone). The name comes from a song by Mercedes Sosa, a famous Argentinian singer. Our winery located in this very special area naturally shares the same name. ARGENTINA 20 An outstanding wine, full bodied, produced from the best grapes of the Bodega, whose name was given after seeing a small jackal (chacayes in Spanish) running through the vineyards. If Piedra Negra is representing the best expression of Malbec variety, Chacayes reflects the high quality of the argentinian terroir chosen by the brothers Lurton. This super rich concentrated wine comes from the single vineyard of « Chacayes » (named after a small grey jackal found in the vineyards) on our estate. This includes a one hectare parcel of Malbec vines which are grown at one of the highest densities in the world : 20,000 vines per hectare and produce tiny very concentrated yields of about 1 kg per vine. It is referred to as the estate’s “Bonsai Garden”. Chacayes was first produced in 2002. The goal on this wine was to create a supple and elegant malbec, while keeping the extradordinary complexity of this variety which became the red emblematic grape for Argentina. Named after the colour of the Andes mountains (black stone), this wine offers rich black fruits aromas and spices. Goal achieved for a magnificent malbec. Convinced of the nobility of Malbec, this wine was born out of Francois Lurton’s desire to make a refined and elegant Argentine Malbec, very expressive and aromatic, it is very “Burgundian” in style. The first vintage was produced in 1999. The fruit is carefully selected from the best Malbec vineyards, in the hills arounding Mendoza. The grapes are 100% Malbec (50% Argentine Malbec, 50% French Malbec, ‘Cot’). This wine has become a benchmark of the Malbec aromatic expression. It owes its name to the black mountains of the Andean foothills. French ‘Cot’ clones (598, 596, 595, 594, 180) ARGENTINA 22 These two wines are the most representative of the work realized by François Lurton in Argentina during the past 15 years. Cabernet Sauvignon was the first to be developed by the two brothers, following requests of their associates. They were afraid at the beginning that any production would be a pale reflect of the Bordeaux wines but quickly realized that the argentinian terroir had a unique and very distinctive potential of expression. Tasting reveals rich black fruits and delicate spicy notes. White Gran Lurton, made with Tokai Friulano, is a tribute to the Italian migrants, which represents more than 40% of the argentinian population. François, who loves north Italy (Frioul) fresh white wines, developed this blend vinified on its lees and aged in barrels. An original wine, fruity and supple. A range with two varieties : Chardonnay which is harvested quite late in the season before being aged in barrels, in order to develop a very creamy note. Malbec is the emblematic red grape from argentina: this one is round, elgant with hints of vanilla and toasted bread. A range of varietal wines, rather fruity and crispy, with seven different varieties: Bonarda, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosado, Torrontes, Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. This last one represents one third of our total production in Argentina, because its success among worldwide consumers made us plant new vines in order to be able to answer to a raising demand. On the palate, the wine is intense and mellow, with white flowers aromas. CHILE 24 Viña F R A N Ç O I S LU RTO N Chile «If I were a vine, I would choose to be planted inFrançois Chile» Lurton Santa Cruz Teno This long country stretching down alongside the Andes Cordillera mountains seems to be a true paradise for vines, with its particularly stable climate and, therefore, a very low risk of disease for the plants. It is notably thanks to these geographical factors that our Chilean vineyard was one of the first to be converted to a biodynamic culture. F rançois and Jacques Lurton found this “dream land” whilst working as consultants for the San Pedro vineyards. The first bottles of Araucano, the name of the last of Chile’s indigenous people, saw the light in 1997. CHILE 26 In 2000, François bought 200 hectares of land in the valley of Colchagua. Although he had never before owned vines in this area, the acquisition was no accident: the influence of the oceanic climate moderates the heat that comes from the valley. The difference of the temperature during the day and during the night allows the grapes to reach exceptional levels of maturity. The valley is divided into particularly varied microclimates, which, in turn, and thanks to blending, allows for the production of incredibly complex wines. T oday François Lurton continues to explore different possibilities, notably by planting grape varieties that need cooler climates, such as Sauvignon or Pinot Noir, in higher altitude areas. In 2012, wines issued from Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Syrah obtained their organic certification. In 2013, Hacienda Araucano is set to obtain the official « biodynamic » certificate (Demeter). Continuing in this approach of making wines that are as natural as possible, we made our first sulphur-free wine in 2012, a Humo Blanco Carménère. Viña F R A N Ç O I S LU RTO N Chile Lolol Valley Colchagua Maintaining a policy of decreasing energy consumption and securing our irrigation capacity, we have invested in a reservoir with a volume of 45,000 m3. This water storage facility will enable us to collect some of the abundant rain that is concentrated in the winter period from the drainage basin of our property. The volume of this reservoir covers 30% of the annual requirements of the 30 Ha of vines. This investment will give us a degree of security in the face of climate changes and possible variations in the groundwater supply, with a view to preserving the quality of the wines at the «Clos de Lolol». This project means that the Viña Hacienda Araucano is the first vineyard on the American continent to be powered with 100% solar energy. CHILE 28 This wine represents the essence of the cool climate of Lolol. It is made up of the best plots of four grape varieties that excel in the valley : Carmenère, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc. They are grown in different parts of the estate that brings out the best of each grape variety and are blended together to give a fine complex wine. Making wine in Chile since 1992, it was not until 1997 that François Lurton was able for fulfill this ambition and produce his first Araucano wine.The grapes come from a small plot of “franc de pied” vines of Cabernet Sauvignon (with original rootstocks) overseen since 1997 and from our own estate at Lolol. 3 times awarded «Best Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile» by Wines Of Chile. The difference between the cold waters of the Pacific Ocean (around 10°C) and the temperature of the land causes a morning mist to form (rather like in Carneros Bay, Napa Valley) which is funnelled up the East to West valley to Lolol. This mist is called the « Humo Blanco » and serves to extend the coolness of the night until late morning. This particularly suits the cool climate grapes such as Sauvignon, Carmenere and Pinot Noir – hence the creation of these three aromatically rich wines named after this morning mist. In these conditions, grape varieties such as Carmenere retain their freshness and acidity enabling them to be transformed into wine without using sulphur. “Araucano” is the name given by the Spaniards to Chile’s indigenous people. The Hacienda Araucano Reserva range consists of various varietals : two white varieties, Chardonnay and Sauvignon and four reds, Pinot Noir, Carmenere, Syrah and Cabernet-Sauvignon. Unreputed as a noble variety and only esteemed fine enough to be blended, François was convinced of Carmenere’s potential for finesse and complexity. Alka is the fruit of this quest. Alka (the Araucano word for the French national emblem, the cockerel) is one of the rare 100% Carmenere wines and serves as proof of this grape variety’s nobility. S PA I N To make a great white wine 30 In 1992, François and his brother went to Rueda to make Sauvignon. Out of curiosity, they decided to try making wine with the local grape variety, Verdejo, in the same manner T his represented a genuine revolution. This variety, traditionally developed in a Jerez, oxidative style, results in an outstanding and original wine that proved an immediate hit with consumers. Very quickly, Verdejo became an alternative to Albariño, both in Spain and abroad. S PA I N 32 They then wanted to produce a red to partner their white wine; in 1998, they began making wine from the grapes of the old vines bought on the neighbouring DO: TORO. T he quality and the power of the wine thus obtained encouraged them to build a new cellar there. Then at the beginning of the 2000’s, they bought some land straddling Rueda and Toro, in the Villafranca de Douro area, and set up a cellar where both types of wine could, therefore, be produced. This wine is equivalent to the «Reserva» category. Yields are very small from the old vines that are between 50 and 75 years old and the wine is aged for 18 months in new oak barrels. This extremely rich and subtle wine should be left to age for a number of years to reach its full potential. 100% barrel-fermented Verdejo. Our Cuesta de Oro is a beautiful presentation of the nobility of the Verdejo grape and has won its place as one of the best wines of Rueda. S PA I N 34 Rich and concentrated yet supple and round, with well-integrated oak. It is matured for one year in French oak barrels. Although it doesn’t bear the name, it could be qualified as a «Crianza». An attractive, excellent quality and value wine. A fruity refreshing rosé wine made from the Tempranillo grape. 100% Tinta de Toro Juicy blackcurrant fruits and relatively soft tannins make this wine approachable and easy to drink at a young age. The equivalent to the «Joven» category. Verdejo DO Rueda : An opportunity to discover this delicate white grape from Rueda, which produces dry, fresh, very aromatic wines, with a combination of minerality and citrus notes. Tempranillo DO Toro : The grapes for the Tempranillo wine were rigorously selected in Toro region, with low yields in order to obtain optimal aromatic richness. S PA I N 36 Dany and Michel Rolland joined forces with Francois in Toro shortly afterwards, and together they created a cellar close to the town of Toro, leaving the El Albar bodega, in Villafranca, dedicated to Rueda wines. R olland/Lurton is an outstanding team of winemakers with world-class experience paving the way to creating an outstanding wine: Campo Eliseo. Sourced from very old vines (some of them nearly a hundred years old), which they rented, the wine was incredibly dense and rich right from the first year. Aware that they had discovered a truly outstanding terroir, they bought a number of parcels and planted new vines using wine-growing techniques not previously seen before in this region. In order to further enhance this great wine, they carefully chose grapes and created a cuvée with a small part of their yield. They sold the rest under the Campo Alegre label. These two wines received good ratings and won several prizes. In 2012, Campo Eliseo was named the best Spanish wine by Wine Enthusiast. A second wine, Campo Alegre, a baby brother to Campo Eliseo was produced in 2007 for the first time using the exact same attention to detail, but which is lighter in style. The wines are the fruit of a partnership with Michel Rolland. Allegre is a musical expression which means “in a quick lively tempo.” Campo Eliseo refers to the “Champs Elysées in French, and it means “blessed fields”. In Greek mythology it is the dwelling place of the blessed after death, a state or place of perfect bliss. ECO-RESPONSABLE François Lurton’s wines, an Eco Responsible company 38 Here are some examples of eco-responsible practices: eco-responsibility charter : SA Francois Lurton’s environmental commitments « I believe strongly about preserving the environment for future generations. I also believe that customers today are searching for an environmental reason to choose a particular product. ». François Lurton O n this basis, Francois Lurton has created his own «eco-responsible» label that guarantees a commitment in the vineyard and the winery, and also in the bottling process, the offices, and right through to the transport of the wines. The goal is to gradually develop an environmental charter which will help to reduce the company’s carbon footprint. Internally, representatives from each department - from sales to production - meet regularly to develop new ideas together. In the offices: - Sorting and recycling of all materials; - Minimising the use of energy resources (heating, water, light) on the bottling lines; - Recycling of waste from the bottling plant in our water treatment station; - Replacement of corks with caps, with a lower carbon footprint; - Development of BIBs In our vineyards: - Use of natural fertilizers; - Elimination of the use of herbicides and insecticides, with a minimum use approach; - Conversion to organic and biodynamic methods; - Sulphur-free vinification Francois Lurton wines are also partners of the «Odyssée du Flocon à la Vague», a sports event which follows the water cycle (mountain, river and sea). Supported by top athletes, the objective of the competition is to increase awareness of the value of water and the importance of preserving it. BIODYN AMY 40 BIODYNAMY Biodynamic cultivation is a concept that was developed by an Austrian philosopher, Rudolf Steiner, in 1924, during a series of “Conferences for farmers”. The aim of this method of agricultural production is to avoid the depletion of the ground and therefore to allow sustainable farming. Steiner started working, in detail, on this subject, when Austrian farmers came to him to ask for advice, as they were worried about the significant drop in the yield obtained from their livestock and their plantations. This regulation requires: Biodynamic cultivation was inspired by anthroposophy, a way of thinking developed by Steiner, which aimed to study spiritual phenomena in the same way that science portrays the physical world. The “500”, cow dung, that is then put in a horn and buried under the earth. It then turns into humus and helps the ground’s microbial activity, which in turn leads to better root development. Biodynamic cultivation relies on three main principles: The “501” is made from the powder form of quartz silica. It allows the exposed parts of the plant (the leaves) to better regulate their absorption of sunlight. - Every agricultural farm is considered as a living and independent organism. One regulates the inputs and outputs so as to work towards the system’s autonomy. - The soil is no longer fertilized, but the aim is to invigorate it so as to help it to assimilate all of the mineral elements necessary for a plant’s growth and defense. - The working schedule is based on lunar, solar and zodiacal rhythm. - The working of the ground and the control of ground cover (which in turn allows for a ventilated ground, rich in microorganisms). - The use of compost and energized concoctions: these concoctions are uniquely made from animal and vegetable matter. The best known and most commonly used are: These concoctions are energized under water and then immediately sprayed onto the vines. By allowing for a winemaking process that is as respectful as possible of the relevant environment, biodynamic cultivation helps wines to express an aromatic potential that is symbolic of their native ‘terroir’. Today it is DEMETER, an international body based in Switzerland that is authorized to deliver biodynamic certificates. After 5 years of “conversion” our Lolol vineyard should obtain its official certificate at the time of 2013’s harvest. S.A. FRANÇOIS LURTON . Domaine de Poumeyrade . 33870 VAYRES . France Tél. + 33 0(5) 57 55 12 12 . Web : www.francoislurton.com . E-mail : [email protected] .