Feast Clothing Tips

Colonial Fiddlers Clothing at Feast of the Hunter’s Moon
What is this “Feast of the Hunter’s Moon”?
It all started in 1967 when students of William Baugh (a junior high school history teacher in
Rossville Indiana) did a history club project that was so amazing it led to the creation of The
Feast of the Hunter’s Moon. It was the first 18th Century living history festival in the nation and
is one of the top festivals in Indiana.
“Feast” takes place every fall. It is a reenactment of an annual fall gathering of fur hunting and
trading between the French and Native American Indians (the Wea tribe) at the French trading
post of Fort Ouiatenon. Fort Ouiatenon is on the Wabash River about 4 miles downstream from
Lafayette, Indiana. The fur-trading post was most active in the mid-1700s.
Participants in “Feast” portray various roles of the period. There are French voyageurs who
traveled thousands of miles in large birch canoes to trade with people at the fort. Others portray
the fort’s military personnel. Members of the Wea tribe are present and participate. Women dress
as they would have in a remote outpost, as wives or daughters of the men at the fort. There are
demonstrations of 18th century crafts (such as blacksmithing, rope making, etc.) and games
(rolling and catching hoops, throwing tomahawks, etc.). You’ll hear cannons, muskets, fife and
drum, and bagpipes as well as fiddles and other period musical instruments. When the voyageurs
arrive at the fort in their canoes they are greeted with much fanfare. Vendors sell food and period
wares. The focus is on period accuracy so it is a fun way to get a glimpse of life in the mid-1700s
surrounded by the sights, sounds and smells of the day.
A Little Fort Ouiatenon History:
The Government of New France originally constructed the fort as a military outpost to resist
Great Britain’s western expansion. In 1717, Ensign François Picote de Beletre arrived at the
mouth of the Tippecanoe and Wabash rivers with four soldiers, three men, a blacksmith and
supplies to trade with the nearby Wea people, an Algonquian-speaking nation closely related to
the Miami people. They built a stockade on the Wabash River, eighteen miles below the mouth
of the Tippecanoe River. The French settled on the north bank, with Wea villages on the south
bank.
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The fort’s location in the unsettled woodlands of the Wabash River valley made it a key center of
trade for fur trappers. French merchants and trappers from Quebec would arrive at Fort
Ouiatenon in search of beaver pelts and to take advantage of trade relations with the
native Wea Indian tribes. Traders brought a steady flow of goods to the new town. Ouiatenon
was described as "the finest palisaded fort in the upper country," and was one of the most
successful trading posts in the region. At its peak level of activity during the mid-18th century
Fort Ouiatenon may have supported over 3,000 residents, and it was central to a hub of five Wea
and two Kickapoo villages.
How should one dress to perform with the Fiddlers at the Feast of the Hunter’s Moon?
The Feast of the Hunter’s Moon web site has a detailed description of clothing to which you
should refer. (There is a link is at the end of this paper.) However, if you’ve never recreated 18th
century period dress it can be a little overwhelming at first. The unfamiliar names of garments
and their descriptions can be confusing to a modern person. The goal here is to give you a
thorough introduction (with lots of pictures and drawings!) to get you started. The end of this
paper will provide you with other online resources if you want to delve deeper and either create
all or part of an outfit or accessorize one that you borrow from Ms. Howard.
As you read through this, think about what sort of person you might want to portray at Feast.
Would you like to be a French voyageur and fur trader? Perhaps you’d like to portray a member
of the military, or the wife, son or daughter of a military man? Maybe you are a merchant or
craftsman? These people will have similar garment styles. The key differences are fabrics used
(fancy or simple), trims (such as buttons and braids) and the type of hat the person might have
worn.
Clothing worn by girls and women will be discussed first followed by clothing for boys and men.
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18th Century Clothes for Girls/Women in a French Fort:
Here is a drawing showing how a typical working woman would dress around 1750.
The basic garments are:
(1) “slip” or “undershirt” (called a chemise by the French and a shift by the English);
(2) stays (a support garment also referred to as a corset – bras hadn’t been invented yet);
(3) petticoats (we call them “skirts” – since petticoats had no pockets women wore their pockets
as a separate garment);
(4) “Coat dress” or “jacket” (depending on the style this is called a short gown or a type of
robe); and
(5) hat and/or cap.
(Note that she also wears a cross around her neck.) Sketches of these garments are below
followed by a more detailed description of each garment.
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The garments that form a basic outfit of a common woman (from a sewing pattern by La Fleur de
Lyse)1:
The woman is wearing a cap, scarf around her neck, an apron over her jacket and skirts;
underneath she wears a chemise or shift.
The sketch below shows the outfit for a girl (the top outfit is earlier than the period of Fort
Ouiatenon or the Feast of the Hunter’s Moon so you should focus on the bottom “look”.)
1
Online reviewers of this pattern recommended the pattern and had the following comments:
Maria Jackson - Recommended
I've made the Shift and Mantelet [jacket]; both of which turned out to be wonderful. The Mantelet, however, may need adjustments to
the sleeves at the elbow if you are adding cuffs. If you follow the pattern, the cuffs turn out to be the same diameter as the sleeve and
do not create the desired winged effect. AS with all form-fitting bodice patterns you must make a muslin first. The Shift pattern is period
correct, easy and fits well. The Petticoat and Apron are not full size patterns; just instructions with a diagram on how to make them.
This is quite sufficient as they are just simple geometric shapes sewn together.
Paula Lee Drake - Recommended for experienced seamstresses.
The directions are in French! Some is in English but not very clear. GREAT PATTERN! FUN! You have to know how to sew and know
your way around patterns.”
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Pattern description: “New France Girls. 18th century French style girls’ outfits including
everything necessary for the young lady from New France. The pattern includes variations for
1675-80 and 1750-60. Pattern includes: Shift and pockets; two styles of lined bodices; two styles
of cap; Instructions for neckerchief, collar, petticoat and apron; long lappets cap (17th century)
ruffled cap (18th c); cape. Four sizes included in the one pattern: Small – XL (Bust 27in./69cm,
Waist 23in./58cm. To 32in./81cm 26in./66cm) Suzanne Gousse [pattern creator] writes, "We
offer here basic clothing for girls living in the country or in town, being daughters of peasants or
artisans as well as young servants and apprentices. . .. First choose the persona and follow the
historical notes included here and the technical information on the pattern pieces to create a
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complete set of clothing for either century". Includes La Fleur de Lyse's customary excellent
historical notes about fabrics, colors, trims, accessories and the way to wear them are also
included. Online source: http://patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LF1718F&cat=18
Lastly, this sketch is from another pattern maker and shows the basic outfit for a woman (1)
chemise (top left); (2) pocket (far left); (3)-(4) petticoat (skirts center and right); (5) short gown
(“jacket” in center) and (6) fichu (triangular scarf, upper right). Source: JP Ryan Six Piece Basic
Wardrobe Pattern.
The custom of the time was that women always had their elbows and their heads
covered; necklines, however, could be daringly low.
Feast Costume Tip: This link is to a video that is a really helpful introduction and
overview of all the garments: “Eighteenth century clothing at Claude Moore Colonial
Farm” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OOjFR5A4A (It shows 18th century reenactors in Virginia farm country – a woman and a man - getting dressed for the day as
the narrator describes each item of clothing. Although they are portraying English
farmers and not the French in a wilderness outpost it is still instructive.)
The Chemise:
Women’s undergarments consisted of a chemise and stays. There were no underpants in the 18th
century. A chemise is essentially a long slip (reaching below the knees or to calf length) having
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sleeves. The chemise could have a casing and drawstring to adjust the neck opening. The sleeves
cover the elbows. The neckline and sleeves of the chemise typically peak out from the outer
garments just as the collar and cuffs of a modern shirt are visible beneath a jacket. The chemise
was typically made of linen or cotton in a neutral color (ivory, tan; white for special or fancy). A
woman/girl would wear the chemise under her day clothes and at the end of the day keep the
chemise on as a nightgown. (A more affluent woman might have several and change into a
different chemise at night.)
This link is to a free pattern that shows how to make a chemise.
http://www.nwta.com/patterns/pdfs/511shift.pdf Suitable fabrics would be unbleached muslin to
portray an everyday chemise of a poorer woman; bleached muslin for an upper-class woman and
cotton lawn or cotton gauze for a special-occasion garment.
Here is a photograph of a simple chemise (on the left) and cuff detail on a slightly fancier
chemise (on the right):
Source: www.SillySisters.com
Feast Costume Tip: You can get the look of a chemise by wearing a peasant-type blouse
made of linen or cotton in a neutral color.
Stays or Corsets:
The YouTube video (link above and at the end of this document) shows the woman putting on
her stays. There is a lot of information about stays on the internet if you’d like to learn more.
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http://augustintytar.blogspot.com/search/label/1780's%20stays
Feast Costume Tip: You need not wear stays. In fact, it is possible that many women did
not wear them in North American outposts unless they were wearing fancy garments.
You might, however, wear a vest which will give the look of a bodice (see below).
Bodices:
The bodice, looking like a vest, provided warmth and support for a woman’s breasts. Heavy
fabric (such as boiled wool) was tightly fitted and provided support. Necklines were cut even
with or slightly above the nipples and the center front of the bodice came to a point. A bodice
might close with ties sewn to both sides of the front, be laced shut with a tape or cord through
eyelets or hooked with hooks and eyes.
Feast Costume Tip: A wool vest in a solid color is a good substitute for a Bodice.
Stockings:
Since skirts may be midcalf- to ankle-length your stockings will show. Traditionally stockings
were made of wool, cotton or silk. Stockings went above the knee and were held up by garters
(as shown in the video above). Stockings were in bright hues of yellow and green and blue and
rose in wide stripes and in plain white.
Feast Costume Tip: There are web sites listed at the end of this document where you can
buy a pair of period stockings for about $10. Otherwise, you might wear wool ski socks
in a neutral color like grey, navy, tan or white.
Side Note: If you read about 18th century period costumes, you’ll sometimes see stockings
referred to as being “clocked”. Here’s what this means: “’Clocked’ CLOCK (1) A gore or
triangular insertion into a garment to widen it at the point, as with collars, stockings, etc. (a)
Once the seams forming the triangular insertion began to be embroidered, the term ‘clock’ was
transferred to this form of embroidery and the clocks of stockings came to mean embroidery at
the ankles, whether gored or not.” Source: Dictionary of 18th Century Clothing Terms from the
Northwest Territorial Alliance. http://www.nwta.com/patterns/pdfs/111dict.pdf
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Here is an ad for some “clocked” stocking recreations and the circa 1750 clocked stockings that
inspired them:
Source:
http://americanduchess.blogspot.com/2012/10/v282-dewitt-museum-at-colonial.html
Shoes:
Women of the fort were likely to wear wood shoes rather than leather. Clogs with leather uppers
were also widely used. A leather slipper, similar to a ballet shoe, might be worn over the sock
and inside the wooden shoe by an upper class woman. The French quickly adopted the footwear
of the Native American Indians, especially the woodland moccasin (with a pucker toe). (An
example of this moccasin is shown below, in the boys’ section, about voyageur attire.)
Since you might want to wear shoes you already own (or might buy shoes you can wear both for
Feast and elsewhere) here is information about leather shoes. Leather shoes of the time would
have had long tongues and straps to hold the tongues down by means of lacing or buckles. The
photos below show some colonial women’s shoe styles available from the web site
www.Fugawee.com
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(Please pardon the shoe name “Debbie” – it was part of the image!)
Mules (open-backed shoes) were also worn at the time (the image below is also from
www.Fugawee.com). Mules were often covered with fine fabrics and used for dressier occasions
and by wealthier women.
Feast costume tip: Shoes can be difficult. If you can find a pair of leather mules or dark
leather shoes with buckles you should be OK. Clogs with plain leather tops would be
another acceptable alternative. Do your best with shoes using the information and images
above as a rough guide.
Pockets:
Pockets weren’t sewn into skirts in the 18th century so women wore a pocket garment over the
chemise but under the skirts. (See the video mentioned above.) Two pockets about 11” wide and
15” deep would have a casing through which a cord ran so they could be tied around the waist.
Feast Costume Tip: You need not wear pockets, although they are for sale at Feast.
Petticoats/Skirts:
Women wore multiple petticoats, depending upon the weather (two or three in summer and five
or six in winter, if she could afford it). Since the petticoat didn’t have a pocket it was constructed
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with side slits (about 10”) and tied. (See video, above.) The skirt length was influenced by
practicality – shorter skirts (that covered the calf) kept hems cleaner and were safer around fires.
“Even a proper woman could wear her skirts calf-high as long as her elbows and head were
covered!” (Historic Colonial French Dress, Johnson (1982) at 11.) Ankle length petticoats were
commonly worn for festivals by ladies in cities or by the commandant’s wife.
Fabrics used for petticoats included linen, wool, cotton, fustian (50% linen and 50% cotton, also
called linette) or sailcloth. Trims included ribbon, braid or wool embroidery. Festival wear for a
wealthy woman might be made of silk.
To make a simple everyday petticoat a common woman would use 3 to 3-1/2 yards of fabric and
make a casing at the waist through which a linen tape was used as a drawstring to gather the
waist. For a special occasion 4 or 5 yards of fabric would be used. Waist bands would be on the
petticoat of a wealthier lady since she could afford a larger wardrobe. You can see instructions
on how to sew an 18th century petticoat here: http://www.18cnewenglandlife.org/petticoat.htm
The French women loved bright colors: gold, blue, rose, grass green with accents of white in
their outfits. (Interestingly, very little black fabric was worn because it is impossible to produce a
stable black with natural dyes.) Dark colors include wine, russet, green, reds, and rich blue. Wide
stripes were popular patterns. Wool was woven in tweed and herringbone patterns. “Indienne
cloth” was linen printed with oriental designs with at most three colors. (You’ll see some
examples of skirts/petticoats in pictures below.)
Feast costume tip: a full skirt (or two) that reaches below your calves or down to your
ankles will be appropriate. Avoid synthetic fabrics (too shiny) and modern prints. Stripes
are appropriate; solids are easiest to find. Since Feast is in the fall, it can be chilly so
wool is a nice choice.
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Jacket (“short gown” version):
Source: JP Ryan 18th Century Jacket Pattern (1750-1780). Notice that women did not use buttons
but rather fastened their clothing with lacing, pins or hooks. Since a woman’s wardrobe needed
to last a long time, she could adjust the openings to suit her size as it might change at various
periods of her life. Here are photos of a fancy 18th century short gown (it sold on eBay!):
Source: http://www.marariley.net/jackets/ebayjacket1740s.htm
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Here is a recreation of an 18th century outfit showing a striped short gown and solid petticoat:
Notice how the chemise is visible both at the neckline and beyond the sleeves. (Source: The
Raven and Rose (Etsy.com) http://www.etsy.com/listing/155133002/reversible-colonial-shortjacket-paprika?ref=shop_home_active )
An apron could be worn over clothing and pinned onto the jacket if it had a bib as shown below:
Source: The Raven and Rose (Etsy.com)
http://www.etsy.com/listing/158957192/cream-gauze-pinner-apron?ref=shop_home_active
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Variations on what we call a “Jacket” or “Coat Dress” [NOTE: These are fancier garments
than you will probably want to use for Feast, but are described here since many of the on-line
resources refer to these garments.]
•
Robe à la Française (a short version of a robe, shown center and right, is often called a
Pet-en-l'air):
“The robe à la française was one of the most flattering gowns worn by ladies in the 18th
century. Fitted closely to the torso in the front, the back of the gown hangs in graceful pleats
from shoulder to hemline. This style was popular from the 1750’s through the 1770’s.” (Source:
JP Ryan Robe a la francaise.)
If you’d like to see a video showing details of a Robe made using the JP Ryan pattern above go
to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nol3GTM3Xls
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•
Another “Robe” is called the “Robe a l’Anglaise” which looks like this:
Source: JP Ryan Robe a l’Anglaise
Two variations shown: (on the left) a Robe a l' Anglaise en fourreau as round gown with apron
front or (on the right) a Robe a l' Anglaise a la polonaise as an open robe with petticoat.
Again, these are very fancy garments that would not have been worn by everyday working
women at the fort. Nevertheless, they are very beautiful and many people doing reenactment of
this period enjoy wearing them. Hence they can be found for sale around the internet. Here is one
example:
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“Open-fronted Robes a l' Francaise (French-style gowns) were THE choice for formal wear for
European and Colonial women of the middle and late 18th century. The deep pleats fall back
from the shoulders, showing off the brilliant ‘lustring’ silk (also known as shot silk or
changeable taffeta) to its greatest advantage. A gown of this style is well suited to a fine dinner
with friends or a simple ball. The cut and fabric of this gown make it most appropriate for
depicting 1750-1780.” Source: Kjirsten Skye (Etsy.com)
http://www.etsy.com/listing/150445351/walnut-lustring-silk-robe-a-la-francaise?ref=related-0
Jacket (“Caraco” Version):
Source: Marquette Trading Co. (“Form fitting jacket with a long pleated flounce
over the hips. Can be worn down or up (la polonaise)”)
Here is a photograph of the “Caraco” jacket with a petticoat:
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Source: Corsets and Costumes (Etsy.com)
http://www.etsy.com/listing/154904114/18th-century-linen-caraco-jacketcustom?ref=sr_gallery_18&ga_search_query=18th+century+clothing&ga_view_type=gallery&g
a_ship_to=US&ga_ref=auto4&ga_search_type=all
Fabrics:
Most printed cottons used for clothing were based on floral designs. By mid-century,
fabrics were imitating fashionable silk brocades with European flowers (tulips,
carnations, roses, and daises) incorporated into more traditionally Indian motifs on a
white background. In the 1780s, bolder designs with twisting stems became
increasingly fashionable. Small floral “sprig” designs with tiny motifs on pastel
backgrounds were cheap, and therefore became popular for working class clothing. In
France, these printed fabrics (no matter their origin) were generally
called indiennes (French for "Indians"), although they were also known as toiles
peintes ("painted cloths") and toiles imprimés ("printed cloths").
Feast Costume Tip: Keep the fabrics simple – solids and stripes – unless you
are willing to do some online research about appropriate patterns. For the
“jacket” of your costume you might be able to find a largeish simple blouse or
linen or wool jacket that could be crossed (bathrobe or kimono style) to
represent the short gown, above. The fancier styles obviously represent a larger
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amount of work and/or expense and might not be appropriate to the person
living everyday in the fort.
Hats/Caps (called Coifs or, plural, les coiffes):
By religious beliefs a proper woman’s head must be covered to show her respect for
God. Only a very young girl or a woman of low morals appeared bareheaded. The
design of caps varied widely depending upon the region of France a woman was
native to. Caps were made of linen or cotton. A coarse natural gray or tan linen would
be worn for everyday. For Sundays and festivals, a finely woven cotton cap starched
with sugar water would be preferred. Usually the cap was accented with ruffles from
the same fabric or occasionally by the addition of a little bobbin lace. (Upper-class
ladies had caps made of whiter, finer linens and on festival days displayed as much
lace as they could afford.)
Women who could afford a hat sometimes wore a low-crowned straw or felt hat over
a simple cap; the hat was secured with ribbon ties or a light-weight kerchief.
The following pictures show examples of caps and hats:
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Source: Cap pattern by La Fleur de Lyse available at various sources online, including
http://www.wmboothdraper.com/Patterns/womens_patterns.htm 2
Straw hat (link is to a tutorial on how to turn a straw sunhat into a reasonable copy of
an 18th Century hat):
Source: http://thedreamstress.com/2013/03/tutorial-how-to-turn-astraw-sunhat-into-an-18th-century-bergere/
Boys/Men
The basic garments are:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Shirt
Breeches (short pants) or Breechclout (loin cloth)
Leggings or Gaiters
Vest or waistcoat (jacket)
Headgear/hat
Accessories (optional, depending upon whom you portray): Coat, Sash,
Haversack, Kerchief, cravat (tie)
2 One online reviewer said of this pattern: “I love this pattern set. The Adelaide cap is
so pretty when finished and the coif look over the cap is so very Canadienne. I have
loaned my pattern around and very inexperienced sewers have had remarkable results.
I can't wait for it to come back, so I can make some other caps. The directions can be
a little confusing to very beginning sewers because the instructions are translated from
French. However, keeping that in mind, it is a great pattern.”
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Each of these will be illustrated and described. The sketches below are from a sewing
pattern but are useful in that they illustrate a basic outfit.
“LF1718G- New France Boys. Everything you need to dress young boys for the 17th or
18th century in New France. The pattern includes variations for 1675-80 [top] and
1750-60 [bottom]. Includes Shirt; Short vest and two styles of waistcoats [longsleeved jackets]; two styles of breeches; Cap and instructions for cravat and
handkerchief. Four sizes included in the one pattern: Small – XL (Bust 27in./69cm,
Waist 23in./58cm. To 32in./81cm 26in./66cm) Suzanne Gousse [patter creator] writes,
"We offer here basic clothing for boys living in the country or in town, being sons of
peasants or artisans as well as young servants and apprentices . . . First choose the
persona and follow the historical notes included here and the technical information on
the pattern pieces to create a complete set of clothing for either century". Includes La
Fleur de Lyse's customary excellent historical notes about fabrics, colors, trims,
accessories and the way to wear them. Source:
http://patternsoftime.com/proddetail.asp?prod=LF1718G&cat=18
Feast Costume Tip: This link is to a video that is a really helpful introduction and
overview of all the garments: “Eighteenth century clothing at Claude Moore Colonial
Farm” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OOjFR5A4A (It shows 18th century reenactors in Virginia farm country – a woman and a man - getting dressed for the day as
the narrator describes each item of clothing. Although they are portraying English
farmers and not the French in a wilderness outpost it is still instructive.)
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Shirt:
Like the woman’s chemise, the man’s shirt is considered primarily to be an undergarment. Like
the chemise, it is proper for it to be visible below outerwear. Here are some sketches from
sewing patterns:
Source: JP Ryan 18th Century Shirt Pattern
Source: Historic Threads (Etsy.com) http://www.etsy.com/listing/159178146/mens-large-18thcentury-blue-linen-shirt?ref=shop_home_active
Feast Costume Tip: A loose-fitting shirt (or blouse) in a natural color, indigo blue, or
stripe would be appropriate if it is in cotton, linen or other natural fiber.
Breeches: A pair of knee length pants, usually wool or linen, which button around the knees.
Sketches and photos follow:
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Source: JP Ryan Fall Front Breeches Pattern (note the
gathered seat which would have allowed the wearer to tuck in his long shirt and give him room
to sit comfortably.)
Source: Period Impression 1730-1770 French Fly Front
Breeches Pattern
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Source: The Period Tailor (Etsy)
http://www.etsy.com/listing/89031519/18th-century-breeches1770s?ref=sr_gallery_30&ga_search_query=18th+century+clothing&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_to
=US&ga_page=2&ga_search_type=all
Feast Tip: You will note that zippers hadn’t been invented yet! Despite that, if you have
a pair of knicker-type short pants in an appropriate fabric it will be fine. You should,
however, wear a garment to cover the modern fly front.
Gaiters:
Typically worn for military dress, these are heavy leggings to protect the lower leg.
Source:
http://sidneyeileen.com/tutorials/sewing/costume-making/twolayer-gaiters/ (Tutorial on making
gaiters.)
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Leggings or “Mitasses”:
These were adapted from Native American Indian garments. They are held up by garters tied just
below the knee and are tied to the belt or sash. These look similar to gaiters without buttons.
(You’ll notice some men are wearing these in the photos later on.)
Vest/Waistcoat (la veste):
A poorer man’s vest might reach to the waist but most men had vests that covered their stomach
and part of the thighs. The vest might have sleeves (particularly in cold weather) or could be
sleeveless. Pockets could be added. The front of a gentleman’s vest would be linen, wool,
brocade or cut velvet. An everyday vest for a common man would be of linen, canvas, wool and
might be patterned with checks, stripes or prints.
The following sketches give you an idea of how this garment should look:
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Source: JP Ryan Waistcoat Pattern
Coat (les justacorps) for a well-to-do gentleman or soldier:
Source: JP Ryan 1750s Coat Pattern
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Source: http://www.etsy.com/listing/119610907/18th-century-light-blue-mens-coatwarner?ref=sr_gallery_14&ga_search_query=18th+century+clothing&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_ship_t
o=US&ga_ref=auto4&ga_search_type=all
Source: The Period Tailor (Etsy.com): http://www.etsy.com/listing/89031111/mens-18th-century-coat1770s?ref=listing-shop-header-3
Stockings: Shaped like today’s tube socks, the stockings would have been made of wool, cotton or silk.
Colors would be white, grey or black (although red, yellow, blue and green stockings were also popular
and one inch wide horizontal stripes were worn as well!)
Shoes:
•
•
Wooden shoes (like a Dutch shoe) were outdoor wear. Solid wooden clogs with a plain leather
upper were also worn.
Leather shoes were worn by gentlemen, merchants and soldiers on duty; these fastened with
buckles.
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Here are some recreations of leather shoes of the period:
Source: www.Fugawee.com
•
Moccasins made in the native style with a center seam were worn (not the fringed westernstyle moccasin). Center seam moccasins look like this:
Source: http://petitefort.tripod.com/images/mocs.JPG
(There are links at the end showing how to make this type of moccasin. If you are a boy scout, this might
be a project for a leather working merit badge.)
Coat/Overcoat:
Blanket coat or “Capote”:
This type of coat was frequently made from a woolen trade blanket and worn by commoner men and/or
voyageurs. It was similar in design to a sleeved vest but is longer, looser and warmer. A capote may or
may not have had a hood and was held closed with a sash and ribbon ties. Here is one example:
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Source: http://buffalotrace1765.blogspot.com/2010/10/blanket-coats-cappa-coats-capots-and.html
Hats/Caps:
A French Voyageur and the common men would have worn a knitted cap, typically in red wool, called a
touque. A pompom frequently adorned the tip of the cap, depending upon the knitter’s preference.
(Reds, blues and greens were worn.) A voyageur might adorn his touque with a feather, pin or ornament
(in the shape of a cross, fleur-de-lis, bison head or beaver) made of pewter, brass or trade silver.
Tricorn hats were worn by gentlemen and the military. A plain felt hat with a low crown and wide brim
was worn by tradesmen and farmers.
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Feast Costume Tip: The following photos and diagrams will give you some complete
outfit ideas.
A laborer or tradesman wore a cap (and outfit) like this (although this guy looks awfully clean!):
Source: The Raven and Rose (Etsy.com) http://www.etsy.com/listing/101177210/18th-century-mensworkmens-cap?ref=shop_home_active
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The voyageur and hunter:
Source: http://media-cacheak0.pinimg.com/originals/aa/eb/0e/aaeb0eda8ad8cbf43a24d371254fbc97.jpg
Source: http://johannfactotum.blogspot.com/2012/10/18th-century-knitted-caps.html
Voyageur costume tip: Dress like an Indian from feet to waist: moccasins ( shoes )
mitasse ( leggings ), breechcloth (or breeches), and dress French from waist up: chemise
( shirt), sleeveless waist coat and capote (blanket coat ) with a belt made of wool cloth
or the woven sash or "ceinture”.
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Voyageur sashes worn about their waists were very colorful:
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Source: http://weheartit.com/entry/16067525?pgx=OpenMobileApp
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Soldier of the Compagnies franches de la Marine in New
France, circa 1740
“This man of the Compagnies franches de la Marine wears the grey-white coat of France with the blue
facings of the Troupes de la Marine. He is armed with a musket, sword and bayonet. Note the anchor
decorating his cartridge pouch. This was appropriate given that these troops belonged to the Ministère
de la Marine, which was responsible for the navy as well as for France's colonies. This is how the men of
the Compagnies franches would appear on parade or in garrison in one of the larger forts.”
Reconstruction by Michel Pétard. Source: http://www.twcenter.net/forums/showthread.php?313449France-Discussion-Thread
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ONLINE RESOURCES:
Feast of the Hunters Moon:
http://www.tcha.mus.in.us/ouiatenon.htm Website for Fort Ouiatenon and “Feast”
http://www.tcha.mus.in.us/clothing.htm Feast of the Hunters Moon Clothing Tips
Clothing tips from a re-enactor group of the same period and general location of Fort Ouiatenon:
http://petite-fort.tripod.com/Dress.htm
Photo gallery of the re-enactor group: http://petitefort.tripod.com/photo_gallery.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFqEB_pnYkU Overview of Feast of the Hunter’s Moon
http://www.youtube.com/watch?list=PLZcDf5VJeO4iO43ZC-puF-qRfRlKBNtZ4&v=osXM8z92tRw (2011
Feast of the Hunters Moon – at the 7:00 mark is a parade showing a lot of costumes, particularly
military, and at 21:10 the Fiddlers perform).
Clothing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_OOjFR5A4A (Narrated film shows 18th century re-enactors in
Virginia farm country – a woman and a man - getting dressed for the day. They are portraying the
English rather than the French but it is still instructive.)
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www.smoke-fire.com (Smoke & Fire Company: Providing Goods for Living
History Re-enactors) This web site carries a useful book on Feast attire:
Historic Colonial French Dress by Judy Forbes, Mary M. Johnson, and Kathy
Delaney. Newly re-illustrated and updated version of this classic book on
French colonial clothing. Women's and men's dress, colonial robes, glossary.
Includes Justacorps pattern and directions. (Price: $12.00)
Smoke & Fire also sells a number of sewing patterns, including these by
Rocking Horse Farms:
Stock #: RHF-107
Boy's 18th Century Small Clothes Pattern
Shirt, waistcoat, knee breeches. Multi-sized: 8-16 in one pattern.
Stock #: RHF-182
Short Gown and Petticoat Pattern
Short Gown and Petticoat. Work garment used throughout the 18th century and into the
19th. Includes instructions for a single petticoat and apron to complete the outfit.
and these patterns by Eagle’s View (blanket capote, breechclout, leggings, etc.):
http://www.smoke-fire.com/eagles-view-patterns-2.asp (To make a capote, find a wool
blanket---white with a single dark stripe is very good, so is dark blue, or green with black stripe,
red with black stripe, etc. Second or third hand works great --no use chopping up a new
blanket--look at eBay, yard sales, etc. Leave OFF fringe, hood ties, & blanket sash---keep it
simple. Sew it with thread, like any other garment, with the seams to the inside. Hold it closed
with a sash, or use buttons (nice correct pewter ones). Don't worry about the raw edges, wool
won't ravel, particularly if it has been wash and slightly “fulled” (shrunk/felted).)
www.marquettetrading.com (Marquette Trading Historical Fashions for Men, Women and Children; also
has a Facebook page with photos of people in costume at events)
www.jas-townsend.com (James Townsend & Son: “Where Ben Franklin would shop if he were alive
today.” Historical clothing, accessories, how-to and YouTube videos – including many on the subject of
18th century cooking!)
Sewing patterns and period correct fabrics may be found at www.wmboothdraper.com/
La Fleur de Lyse sewing patterns: http://www.neheleniapatterns.com/english/lafleurdelyse.html
(European site)
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Riley, Mara, Mara Riley's Costume Site (http://www.marariley.net/). ©1997-2003. This link has a chart
for knitting 18th century stockings: http://www.marariley.net/knitting/stocking-chart.htm
Socks and 18th Century Shoes are available at http://www.Fugawee.com
www.sillysisters.com Makers of custom women’s 18th century clothing ($$); they also sell socks in
cotton, silk and wool ($10-24), hats, scarves, etc. http://sillysisters.com/pricelist2.htm
Period recreation shoes are also at http://www.american-duchess.com
Moccasins:
How to make pucker toe, center seam moccasins:
YouTube video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY12eXHxTPY
Blog tutorial: http://woodsrunnersdiary.blogspot.com/2009/10/woodland-indian-centre-seam-softsole.html
(Or you can purchase moccasins from various sites including: http://mocassins.weebly.com/ )
Capots, with some Side Lights on Chiefs' Coats & Blankets, 1774-1821, by A. Gottfred (An examination of
some winter clothing worn in the fur trade). Northwest Journal ISSN 1206-4203
http://www.northwestjournal.ca/XIII3.htm
I hope this was useful – have fun at Feast of the Hunter’s Moon!!
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