Venice and Beyond
Transcription
Venice and Beyond
stevebrownd50 Venice and Beyond Florence, Rome, Venice, 7 Days Table of contents: Guide Description 2 Itinerary Overview 3 Daily Itineraries 6 My List 28 Florence Snapshot 29 Rome Snapshot 38 Venice Snapshot 44 1 Guide Description AUTHOR NOTE: This is your week in Italy and making Venice your home base is a step toward understanding what makes Italy so special. After seven days in the land where "si" is heard you may be writing sonnets and performing them in your cubicle to whomever may care to listen. Explore Venice and spend a day in Florence and Rome. 2 things to do restaurants hotels nightlife Itinerary Overview Day 1 - Venice DAY NOTE: When you arrive in Venice and have consulted your map, you may be tempted to drag your luggage to your hotel. If you ignore the rest of my itinerary and spend the rest of your time in your hotel room, then please take my advice this once and higher a water taxi. It is cool, very Venetian, and you will arrive at your hotel in style. Once you start wandering the streets and see some poor soul wrestling a Samsonite over the top of the Rialto Bridge you will understand what I mean. You are checked-in and ready to explore. Your first stop in Venice must be Piazza San Marco. Climb to the top of the Campanile for great views and then visit the Basilica di San Marco and the Galleria of San Marco. Before dinner at La Furatola walk to the Rialto Bridge. Basilica di San Marco Famous Basilicas San Marco Campanile Panoramic view of the city Basilica di San Marco - Pala d'Oro e Tesoro Venetian-Byzantine goldsmiths Ponte di Rialto Historic Grand Canal Bridge La Furatola Creative fish dishes Hotel Rialto Adjacent to the Rialto Bridge Ercole Moretti Glassware Museo Correr Venetian Paintings Due Colonne Quiet with Outdoor Tables Hotel Rialto Adjacent to the Rialto Bridge Day 3 - Florence, Rome DAY NOTE: Day three is an express tour of Florence. You will have to catch an early train from Venice to Florence to get it all done in Florence. Schedule an entry time at the Galleria degli Uffizi to avoid a longer wait. After the Uffizi visit the Palazzo Vecchio and the Loggia dei Lanzi both in Piazza della Signoria. Your afternoon will begin at the Piazza del Duomo with a visit to the Battistero, the Cathedral, and the Campanile di Giotto. Nearby is the Church Orsanmichele. Before leaving on a train for Rome be sure to visit the Ponte Vecchio. A Eurostar from Florence to Rome will arrive in less than two hours. Once you have checked-in at your hotel go for dinner at the Vecchia Roma da Severino il Pugliese. Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi Galleries) World-Renowned Art Collection Palazzo Vecchio (Museo) Historical building Day 2 - Venice Loggia dei Lanzi DAY NOTE: Your second day starts with a tour of Murano and Venetian glass. In the afternoon if you have time walk along the water toward the Giardini Pubblici to work up an appetite for dinner at Due Colonne. Piazza del Duomo Great sculptures of the Renaissance. Where the Heart of Florence lies. Battistero Murano Home of the famous glassware Museo Vetrario - Murano Roman baptistery Campanile di Giotto Decorative bell tower Murano glass 3 things to do restaurants hotels nightlife Itinerary Overview Orsanmichele Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi Vecchia Roma da Severino il Pugliese Sant'Ignazio di Loyola Bled The Pantheon Medieval Grain Market In true Pugliese tradition Historic villa in nice central location Day 4 - Rome, Venice DAY NOTE: No city in Italy can really be seen in one day and Rome is at the top of this list. I have done Rome in one day many times with friends and family. Stay focused and drink lots of water. You need to see as much of this city as you can in the time that you have. Rome is my favorite big city in Italy and it is chock full of things to see. From your hotel take the Metro to Piazza di Spagna. From there work your way to the Fontana di Trevi. As you navigate the streets toward the Panteon, stop and see Sant’Ignazio di Loyola and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Marvel at the Panteon, built nearly a millennium before the Battistero in Florence, with techniques that were far beyond those available to the Florentines in the Middle Ages. Your next stop is my favorite piazza on the Italian peninsula, Piazza Navona. Near the piazza is another church well worth visiting, San Luigi dei Francesi. On the way to visit the Piazza del Campidoglio try to find the Fontana delle Tartarughe. Between the Campidoglio and the Coliseum is the Foro Romano. Time permitting, walk along the Tiber River to St. Peter’s Basilica, otherwise take a cab or take the Metro. After you have visited St. Peter’s you can catch a Metro to get back to Termini, collect your luggage and catch a Eurostar back to Venice. Piazza di Spagna Meeting at the Steps Trevi Fountain (Fontana dei Trevi) Throw a coin in the fountain... Fontana delle Tartarughe One of the Renaissance's little gems San Luigi dei Francesi Works of art treasure chest Piazza Navona Rome's Favorite Piazza The iniquity of the people Remembering the saint founder Magnificent dome Santa Maria Sopra Minerva A magnificent church Piazza del Campidoglio Michelangelo's idea The Colosseum (Colosseo) The symbol of Rome and the Empire's Largest Arena Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter's Basilica) The home of Catholicism Hotel Rialto Adjacent to the Rialto Bridge Day 5 - Venice DAY NOTE: After your two day excursion to Florence and Rome you are most likely in need of an easy day. To recuperate your energy take a short boat ride over to visit the Chiesa di S. Giorgio Maggiore. Near Piazza San Marco and your hotel you can visit the Palazzo Ducale and see the Ponte dei Sospiri. For dinner try Da Remigio. Whenever I go to Venice I always have pasta al nero seppia, at least once. Chiesa di S. Giorgio Maggiore Palladian church Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) Legendary Bridge Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) Palace of Venetian Governors Da Remigio Excellent fish and risottos 4 things to do restaurants hotels nightlife Itinerary Overview Hotel Rialto Adjacent to the Rialto Bridge Day 6 - Venice DAY NOTE: In the morning visit the Galleria dell’Accademia Museum. For the afternoon visit the Chiesa di San Salvador, Piazza San Polo, and the Chiesa di S. Nicola da Tolentino. For dinner try the Osteria Alla Patatina. Santa Maria dei Derelitti 16th-century church Santa Maria del Giglio o Zobenigo Baroque façade Antica Bessetta Good fish and excellent wine San Polo One of the most famous squares in Venice Chiesa di San Salvador 7th-Century Church Chiesa di S.Nicola da Tolentino Late fifteenth century church Galleria dell'Accademia Collection of Venetian Art Alla Patatina Small Osteria Hotel Rialto Adjacent to the Rialto Bridge Day 7 - Venice DAY NOTE: For you last day in Venice you will undoubtedly go to Piazza San Marco for last minute photos. Before you leave today go over to visit to out-of-the-way churches, Santa Maria dei Derelitti and San Francesco della Vigna. Also, near Piazza San Marco is another church worth visiting, Santa Maria del Giglio. If you have time left in the day visit the Palazzo Labia. Palazzo Labia - Salone del Tiepolo Works by Tiepolo San Francesco della Vigna Palladian facade 5 Day 1 - Venice QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: When you arrive in Venice and have consulted your map, you may be tempted to drag your luggage to your hotel. If you ignore the rest of my itinerary and spend the rest of your time in your hotel room, then please take my advice this once and higher a water taxi. It is cool, very Venetian, and you will arrive at your hotel in style. Once you start wandering the streets and see some poor soul wrestling a Samsonite over the top of the Rialto Bridge you will understand what I mean. You are checked-in and ready to explore. Your first stop in Venice must be Piazza San Marco. Climb to the top of the Campanile for great views and then visit the Basilica di San Marco and the Galleria of San Marco. Before dinner at La Furatola walk to the Rialto Bridge. contact: tel: +39 0412413817 fax: +39 41 520 8289 http://www.basilicasanmarco. it/ location: San Marco 328 Venice 30124 hours: Summer: M- Sa 9:30a-5:30p, Su 2p-5:30p, Winter: M-Sa 10a-4p, Su 2p-6p 1 Basilica di San Marco DESCRIPTION: Even before arriving in front of the Byzantine styled Basilica di San Marco, her many magnificent domes can be seen from afar announcing their presence and status in Venice. The story goes, that the remains of St. Mark were brought, or stolen – depending on your point of view, by the Venetians from Alexandria to rest in this elaborate burial place back in the 9th century. On closer observation, you will notice not all of the columns on the Basilica di San Marco are the same (some green marble, others not) due to trading with incoming merchants for the materials to build and decorate this amazing edifice. History throughout the centuries is woven into the world-wide known Basilica di San Marco, including the originally looted Bronze horses being stolen by Napoleon, and then returned again in 1815. © NileGuide . 6 Day 1 - continued... contact: tel: (+39) 041 241 3817 fax: +39 041 270 8334 http://www.basilicasanmarco.i t/ita/index.bsm location: San Marco 328 Venice 30124 hours: Oct1-Mar31: daily 9.45a-4.30p; Apr1-Sep31 daily: 9.45a-5p contact: tel: +39 41 522 5205 location: Piazza San Marco Venice 30124 hours: NNov-Mar, M-F 9.45a-4.30p, Apr-Oct, M-F 9.45a-5.30p, Weekends, Holdays 2p-4p contact: http://www.turismovenezia.it/e ng/dynalay.asp location: Ruga degli Orefici (Rialto) Venice 30125 hours: 24 hrs daily 2 San Marco Campanile DESCRIPTION: Located in the very same Piazza San Marco, for which it is named after, the San Marco Campanile, or St. Mark's Bell tower, soars 98.5 meters high with spectacular panoramic views of the orange rooftops of Venice and on a clear day, the snow-capped Alps seem at your very fingertips. After paying at the entrance, one of the biggest elevators you'll find in Italy (a normal sized elevator for Americans) swiftly brings you up the San Marco Campanile to the observatory area where wind speeds seem to increase exponentially. Originally constructed in 1173, the San Marco Campanile has had many varied functions throughout the years such as a lighthouse for incoming ships on the lagoon, a means of tying up prisoners for torture during Medieval times, and an observatory for Galileo to demonstrate his telescope in 1609. After suddenly collapsing in 1902, the San Marco Campanile was reconstructed from its remaining base, a collection of marble sculpted storyboards called La Loggetta, and has been firmly standing since its re-inauguration in 1912. © NileGuide . 3 Basilica di San Marco - Pala d'Oro e Tesoro DESCRIPTION: It is not known for certain who made the mid-14th-century Golden Altar Piece. It is a masterpiece of engraving that uses Byzantine ancient enamels, which originate from the pillage of Byzantium in 1204. The Treasure of San Marco should not be missed. A large part was melted down to mint money, but what remains can satisfy the curiosity of even the most demanding visitor, from an artistic and historic point of view. It can be accessed directly from the basilica. © wcities.com . 4 Ponte di Rialto DESCRIPTION: Ponte di Rialto is Venice's most famous bridge arching over the Grande Canal, known as a commercial area of the city with the busy Rialto Market nearby, filled with bright colored fruits, vegetables and fish (only open in the morning), and souvenir shops lined up and down the bridge itself. After its construction in 1591, the Rialto Bridge remained as the only bridge connecting the two sides of "the fish" called Venice for almost 300 years. The Ponte di Rialto is perfect for shopping or strolling along with gelato in hand while gazing off the bridge at the passing gondoliers and boats, and postcard perfect shots of the orange buildings & green water against the pink sky at sunset. © NileGuide . contact: 5 La Furatola tel: 39 41 520 8594 http://www.venezia-tourism.co m/en/venice-restaurants/resta DESCRIPTION: This restaurant is located in Calle Lunga San Barnaba. The name, 'furatola' urant-la-furatola.html indicates an old shop where they once sold poor man's food. Food is still sold here today, but it's not for poor people anymore! This is an elegant restaurant which is mainly visited by fashionable 7 Day 1 - continued... location: Dorsoduro Calle Lunga S. Barnaba 2869/A Venice 30122 contact: tel: 39 41 52 09 16 6 www.rialtohotel.com location: San Marco 5149 Ponte Di Rialto Venice VE 30124 Venetians and tourists looking for something refined. It is necessary to book. The cuisine is local, but has been reinterpreted in a creative way. The fish dishes are always very fresh and of excellent quality. The wine list is superb. © wcities.com 6 Hotel Rialto DESCRIPTION: Hotel Rialto is a traditional Venetian property situated adjacent to the Rialto Bridge and within 500 metres from Saint Mark's Square. Contemporary guestrooms are decorated in a Venetian style and all come equipped with satellite television and minibars. Guests can sip cocktails in the hotel bar before sampling Italian specialties on the terrace of the hotel restaurant. . 8 Day 2 - Venice QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: Your second day starts with a tour of Murano and Venetian glass. In the afternoon if you have time walk along the water toward the Giardini Pubblici to work up an appetite for dinner at Due Colonne. contact: http://www.turismovenezia.it/e ng/dynalay.asp location: Isola di Murano Venice 30141 hours: Open 24 Hours contact: tel: +39 41 73 9586 fax: +39 041 73 9586 http://www.homeandabroad.c om/viewSiteDetails.ha location: Fondamenta Giustinian 8 Venice 30141 hours: 1 Murano DESCRIPTION: The skilled Glass Blowers are the founders of this fair sized island called Murano. In 1291, the furnaces were moved off of the main island to Murano in case they ever caught fire, making sure the main city of Venice would still be preserved. To this day, Murano is still known for the beautiful glass works of art, with many stores allowing tours and on-looking crowds to watch the intense production of these delicate pieces. Many quaint restaurants and shops line the quiet streets of Murano, located just a short 15 minute boat ride from Venice. © NileGuide wcities 2 Museo Vetrario - Murano DESCRIPTION: From milky opalescent to crystal clear, all kinds of glass, including chandeliers, vases, glasses and mirrors, in various styles and forms are displayed at this museum. Visitors can also watch a glassworker in action. Be sure to visit the glass workshops and famous glass factories in Murano and buy a piece of authentic Murano glass. It is expensive, but it is also worth a lot, as the work of a master glassworker is extremely difficult. Admission to this museum is free. © wcities.com . 9 Day 2 - continued... M-Tu & Th-Su 10.00-16.00 contact: tel: +39 41 73 9083 fax: +39 41 73 6844 http://www.ercolemoretti.it/ location: 423 0141 Fondame Navagero Murano Venice 30100 hours: 9a-6p M-F contact: tel: +39 41 522 5625 / +39 41 240 5211 fax: +39 041 520 0935 http://www.museicivicivenezia ni.it/ location: Piazza San Marco 52 Venice 30124 hours: Mar-Oct: 9a-7p, Nov-Feb: 9a-5p contact: tel: 39 41 524 0685 location: San Polo Campo Sant' Agostin 2343 Venezia 30125 contact: tel: 39 41 52 09 16 6 www.rialtohotel.com location: San Marco 5149 Ponte Di Rialto Venice VE 30124 3 Ercole Moretti DESCRIPTION: The speciality here is 'murrine', glass jewels that are typical of Murano. The technique for making these consists of putting together slivers of multi-coloured glass, melting them down and then cutting them widthways in order to obtain the characteristic concentric circle design. The glass is then used to create extremely beautiful and precious pendants, table ornaments and more. © wcities.com . 4 Museo Correr DESCRIPTION: There is a silent and almost respectful ambience in this museum. Visitors enter by means of a staircase, originally built as a grand entrance to the Napoleonic royal palace. From here, the tour continues through neoclassical rooms, the Royal Palace, the Canoviana Collection, Venetian Civilization, Antique Art, and Renaissance Bronze. There are many sculptures by Canova and decorative objects by Francesco Hayez. Venezia by Jacopo De' Barbari can be admired in the entrance. © wcities.com Photo courtesy of Museo Correr 5 Due Colonne DESCRIPTION: Both the pub and the surrounding area are quiet. This place is friendly, and popular with both locals and tourists. Speedy service. Good selection of classic pizzas and draft and bottled beers. © wcities.com 6 Hotel Rialto DESCRIPTION: Hotel Rialto is a traditional Venetian property situated adjacent to the Rialto Bridge and within 500 metres from Saint Mark's Square. Contemporary guestrooms are decorated in a Venetian style and all come equipped with satellite television and minibars. Guests can sip cocktails in the hotel bar before sampling Italian specialties on the terrace of the hotel restaurant. . 10 Day 3 - Florence, Rome QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: Day three is an express tour of Florence. You will have to catch an early train from Venice to Florence to get it all done in Florence. Schedule an entry time at the Galleria degli Uffizi to avoid a longer wait. After the Uffizi visit the Palazzo Vecchio and the Loggia dei Lanzi both in Piazza della Signoria. Your afternoon will begin at the Piazza del Duomo with a visit to the Battistero, the Cathedral, and the Campanile di Giotto. Nearby is the Church Orsanmichele. Before leaving on a train for Rome be sure to visit the Ponte Vecchio. A Eurostar from Florence to Rome will arrive in less than two hours. Once you have checked-in at your hotel go for dinner at the Vecchia Roma da Severino il Pugliese. contact: tel: 055-238-8651 fax: +39 055 238 8694 http://www.uffizi.firenze.it location: Piazzale degli Uffizi 6 Florence 50122 hours: Tues-Sun 8:15am-7pm. Ticket window closes 45 min. before museum 1 Gallerie degli Uffizi (Uffizi Galleries) DESCRIPTION: The Uffizi is one of the world's great museums, and the single best introduction to Renaissance painting, with works by Giotto, Masaccio, Paolo Uccello, Sandro Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, Perugino, Michelangelo, Raphael Sanzio, Titian, Caravaggio, and the list goes on. The museum is deceptively small. What looks like a small stretch of gallery space can easily gobble up half a day -- many rooms suffer the fate of containing nothing but masterpieces. Know before you go that the Uffizi regularly shuts down rooms for crowd-control reasons -- especially in summer, when the bulk of the annual 1.5 million visitors stampedes the place. Of the more than 3,100 artworks in the museum's archives, only about 1,700 are on exhibit. The painting gallery is housed in the structure built to serve as the offices (uffizi is Florentine dialect for uffici, or "offices") of the Medici, commissioned by Cosimo I from Giorgio Vasari in 1560 -- perhaps his greatest architectural work. The painting gallery was started by Cosimo I as well and is now housed in the second-floor rooms that open off a long hall lined with ancient statues and frescoed with grotesques. Tips for Seeing the Uffizi -- If you have the time, make two trips to the museum. On your first, concentrate on the first dozen or Katie Greenaway 11 Day 3 - continued... so rooms and pop by the Greatest Hits of the 16th Century, with works by Michelangelo, Caravaggio, Raphael, and Titian. Return later for a brief recap and continue with the rest of the gallery. Be aware that the gift shop at the end of the galleries closes 20 minutes before the museum. You can visit it without reentering the museum at any time; if you plan to stay in the collections until closing, go down to the shop earlier during your visit and get the guards' attention before you pass through the exit turnstile, so they'll know you're just popping out to buy a few postcards and will recognize you when you ask to be let back in. © Frommer's contact: tel: +39 55 276 8224 http://www.museumsinflorenc e.com/musei/Palazzo_vecchi o.html location: piazza della Signoria Florence 50122 location: piazza della Signoria Florence 50122 2 Palazzo Vecchio (Museo) DESCRIPTION: The palazzo's construction began in 1299 and it was enlarged repeatedly - in 1343, 1495 and lastly in the 16th century by Vasari and Buontalenti. It has been the symbol and the political centre of the city for centuries. The Great room of the Cinquecento stands out, the work of Cronaca, it was designed as a reception area and decorated with frescoes celebrating Florentine victories against the other Tuscan cities and with sculptures depicting the deeds of Hercules by De Rossi. On the upper floors the Quarters of the elements are noteworthy as are those of Eleanor of Toledo who was the wife of Cosimo I and to whom the little chapel by Bronzino is dedicated. The Gigli room and the Audience room, which has a marble entrance, are sumptuous. On the Mezzanine there is the Loeser collection of painted sculptures. It is recommended that you visit the upper balcony where you can enjoy a fabulous view of Florence. In front of the museum, you'll find a copy of Michelangelo's David. © wcities.com Katie Greenaway 3 Loggia dei Lanzi OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: Take a stroll through Piazza della Signoria at night. You can take in the sights while sitting in the shadow of masterpieces from the Renaissance. DESCRIPTION: The Loggia dei Lanzi or Loggia della Signoria is a wide-open gallery of great works of art and sculpture. It brings together the piazza with the Uffizi Gallery flowing down into the Arno River. As the Florentines adored this masterpiece, Michelangelo suggested having loggia encompass the whole Piazza della Signoria. The artist or designer of the Loggia dei Lanzi was Orcagna. He built it between 1376 and 1382 when Benci di Cione and Simone Talenti took over. The name Loggia dei Lanzi came from the years the Grand Duke Cosimo I was in power, it was used to keep his Lanzichenecchi(Italian) or Landsknechts(German). Shortening it to Lanzi, these were German mercenary pikemen. As the Uffizi was nearly complete, the Loggia's roof was constructed as a terrace for the Medici so they could watch ceremonies in the piazza away from the peasants. The Loggia's roof was designed by Bernardo Buontalenti. Today, the sculptures of divine beauty that are located inside are Benvenuto Cellini's Katie Greenaway 12 Day 3 - continued... Perseus, Giambologna's Rape of the Sabine Woman and the Rape of Polyxena by Pio Fedi. Loggia dei Lanzi is gorgeous at night. Take a stroll after dinner to see the Loggia light up. © NileGuide contact: tel: +39 055 2 3320 fax: +39 055 234 6286 http://www.firenzeturismo.it/ location: piazza del Duomo Florence 50122 contact: tel: +39 55 230 2885 fax: +39 055 230 2898 http://www.operaduomo.firen ze.it/ location: Piazza San Giovanni Florence 50129 hours: M-Sa Summer, 1:30-6:30p; Su, 8:30a-1:30p; M-Su Winter: 1:30-5:30p contact: tel: +39 55 230 2885 fax: +39 55 2302898 http://www.operaduomo.firen ze.it/ location: Piazza Duomo Florence 50122 4 Piazza del Duomo DESCRIPTION: Piazza del Duomo is one of the most famous landmarks in Florence. Truly an architectural piece of beauty, it encompasses the art and history of medieval Italy, through its sheer design. A visit to this city is not complete without visiting the piazza's cathedral 'Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore' whose dome dominates the skyline. It is no wonder that tourists are spellbound and spend hours trying to capture these images for eternity. © wcities.com . 5 Battistero DESCRIPTION: Although the Baptistery's precise origins remain unclear, its foundations are known to date back to Roman times. The central doors are stunning works of art, depicting scenes from the Old and New Testament and they have been called "The Gates of Paradise." Lorenzo Ghiberti who worked on them from 1403 to 1424 designed these ornate doors. Inside, the octagonal structure is richly decorated with Roman columns and gilded column heads. The floor's marble inlay features Islamic-style patterns and the apse is decorated with 13th-century mosaics. Coppo di Marcovaldo and Cimabue were among those involved in the cupola's decorative mosaic work. © wcities.com . 6 Campanile di Giotto DESCRIPTION: Designed by Giotto, the bell tower to the right of Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral was begun by the artist in 1334 but continued by Andrea Pisano (who modified part of the design) following Giotto's death in 1337. Francesco Talenti finally completed it in 1359. Originally the tower was linked to the Duomo via a passageway situated at the level of the first cornice but this was demolished before 1437. Reliefs carved on the side where the passageway once existed are later works by Luca della Robbia; Andrea Pisano's original stone reliefs can be seen in the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. The concepts of universal order and redemption are recurrent themes; hexagonal tiles on the tower's lower level (now replaced by copies) portray scenes from daily human life whilst diamondshaped reliefs on the upper level illustrate more ethereal subjects in the form of the Planets, Virtue, Liberal Arts and the Sacraments. There's no lift, but climbing the 414 steps to the top of the 85m tower is well worth the effort! © wcities.com Campanile di Giotto 13 Day 3 - continued... contact: tel: 055-284-944 fax: +39 055 234 6286 http://www.discovertuscany.c om/florence/churches/orsanm ichele.html location: Via Arte della Lana 1 Florence 50122 hours: Church open erratic hours (though never open during riposo). Museum daily 9-9:45am, 10-10:45am, and 11-11:45am (plus Sat-Sun 1-1:45pm) contact: tel: 39 6 495 8493 location: 52/54 Viale Manzoni Rome 00185 7 Orsanmichele DESCRIPTION: This tall structure halfway down Via dei Calzaiuoli looks more like a Gothic warehouse than a church -- which is exactly what it was, built as a granary/grain market in 1337. After a miraculous image of the Madonna appeared on a column inside, however, the lower level was turned into a chapel. The city's merchant guilds each undertook the task of decorating one of the outside nichelike Gothic tabernacles around the lower level with a statue of their guild's patron saint. Masters such as Ghiberti, Donatello, Verrocchio, and Giambologna all cast or carved masterpieces to set here. Since 1984, these have been removed and are being replaced by casts as the originals are slowly cleaned and exhibited up on the second story. Unfortunately, the church now keeps erratic hours due to a lack of personnel, so there are no set opening hours; however, you may get lucky and find the doors thrown open when you pass by (or, though this may take even more luck, someone might actually answer the phone number below and give you details on when it will next open). Since it's pretty nifty, and there's a chance you'll be able to pop in, I'll go ahead and describe it all. In the chapel's dark interior (emerged in 1999 from a long restoration and entered around the "back" side on Via dell Arte della Lana) are recently restored 14th- to 16th-century paintings by the likes of Lorenzo di Credi and Il Poppi. The elaborate Gothic Tabernacle (1349-59) by Andrea Orcagna looks something like a miniature church, covered with statuettes, enamels, inset colored marbles and glass, and reliefs. It protects a luminous 1348 Madonna and Child painted by Giotto's student Bernardo Daddi. The prominent statue of the Madonna, Child, and St. Anne to its left is by Francesco da Sangallo (1522). Across Via dell'Arte della Lana from the Orsanmichele's main entrance is the 1308 Palazzo dell'Arte della Lana. This Gothic palace was home to medieval Florence's most powerful body, the guild of wool merchants, which employed about one-third of Florence in the 13th and 14th centuries. Up the stairs inside you can cross over the hanging walkway to the first floor (American second floor) of Orsanmichele. These are the old granary rooms, now housing a museum of the statues that once surrounded the exterior. A few are still undergoing restoration, but eight of the original sculptures are here, well labeled, including Donatello's marble St. Mark (1411-13); Ghiberti's bronze St. John the Baptist (1413-16), the first life-size bronze of the Renaissance; and Verrocchio's Incredulity of St. Thomas (1473-83). This museum, too, does not always adhere to its posted hours, as those are dependent on someone being around to honor them. Still, it's at least worth a try. © Frommer's . 8 Vecchia Roma da Severino il Pugliese DESCRIPTION: A restaurant offering traditional Puglian cuisine, with friendly, homey service. The Puglian specialties include orecchiette pasta with turnips, rice with potatoes and mussels, cabbage roulade and coq au vin blanc. For those stuck in Rome to have a taste of the deep south. © wcities.com 14 Day 3 - continued... hours: Call for details contact: tel: 39 67027808 fax: 39 67027935 http://www.travel.it/roma/bled/ bled.html location: 40 Via Santa Croce in Gerusalemme Rome LA 00185 9 Bled DESCRIPTION: Housed in an early 19th century villa, this is a simple and uncomplicated hotel. The staff is efficient and courteous. Its location near Termini station and the Air Terminal is convenient for those arriving by train and for those relying on public transport. The rooms are comfortable and have all the essentials. © wcities.com . 15 Day 4 - Rome, Venice QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: No city in Italy can really be seen in one day and Rome is at the top of this list. I have done Rome in one day many times with friends and family. Stay focused and drink lots of water. You need to see as much of this city as you can in the time that you have. Rome is my favorite big city in Italy and it is chock full of things to see. From your hotel take the Metro to Piazza di Spagna. From there work your way to the Fontana di Trevi. As you navigate the streets toward the Panteon, stop and see Sant’Ignazio di Loyola and Santa Maria Sopra Minerva. Marvel at the Panteon, built nearly a millennium before the Battistero in Florence, with techniques that were far beyond those available to the Florentines in the Middle Ages. Your next stop is my favorite piazza on the Italian peninsula, Piazza Navona. Near the piazza is another church well worth visiting, San Luigi dei Francesi. On the way to visit the Piazza del Campidoglio try to find the Fontana delle Tartarughe. Between the Campidoglio and the Coliseum is the Foro Romano. Time permitting, walk along the Tiber River to St. Peter’s Basilica, otherwise take a cab or take the Metro. After you have visited St. Peter’s you can catch a Metro to get back to Termini, collect your luggage and catch a Eurostar back to Venice. contact: tel: +39 6 48 8991 (Tourist Information) fax: +39 6 481 9316 (tourist information) http://www.piazzadispagna.it/ location: piazza di Spagna Rome 00187 1 Piazza di Spagna DESCRIPTION: An incredible, almost theatrical square with the lovely Spanish steps leading up to the Chiesa di Trinità dei Monti. One of the most important fashion shows is held here, the steps being used as a catwalk. It is now an international meeting point. The fountain known as the 'Barcaccia' (boat) was commissioned by Urbano Barberini to commemorate the alliance made with the King of France, whose coat of arms can be seen on Trinità dei Monti. The square leads into several famous streets, Via Dei Condotti, Via Frattina and Via Borgognona with their luxurious boutiques, and Via Del Babuino with its antique shops. © wcities.com . 16 Day 4 - continued... contact: http://www.romaturismo.it/v2/ allascopertadiroma/en/itinerar i01.html location: piazza di Trevi Rome 00187 contact: tel: +39 6 48 8991 (Tourist Information) fax: +39 6 481 9316 location: piazza Mattei Rome 00186 2 Trevi Fountain (Fontana dei Trevi) DESCRIPTION: Tradition has it that throwing a coin over your left shoulder into the fountain guarantees a swift return to the world's most beautiful city. Anita Ekberg's dip in it was immortalized in Fellini's 'La Dolce Vita', and Italian actor Toto even sold it to an American, passing himself off as its owner. Earlier it was the setting for the award-winning "Three Coins in the Fountain" motion picture, ensuring its popularity worldwide. Designed by Nicola Salvi for Pope Clemente XII, it was completed in the second half of the 1700s. The statues in the centre represent Neptune supported by Tritons on either side while rococo-style Poli Palace provides the perfect backdrop. © wcities.com . 3 Fontana delle Tartarughe DESCRIPTION: This lovely fountain from the late 16th century was ordered by the Mattei family to Giacomo della Porta's design. The statues, on the other hand, are by Taddeo Landini. The turtles that gave their name to the fountain, the work of an anonymous sculptor, were added only a century later. Some think that their creator may even be Bernini, but the evidence is thin; it was perhaps one of his pupils, which would justify any similarities between this work and the work of the illustrious sculptor. © wcities.com wcities contact: tel: +39 6 68 8271 location: Via Santa Giovanna d'Arco 5 Rome 00186 hours: Office: 8a-12:30p, 3:30p-7:30p M-W, F-Su & holidays contact: http://www.romecity.it/Piazza_ navona.htm location: piazza Navona Rome 00186 4 San Luigi dei Francesi DESCRIPTION: This national French church holds the tombs of many famous French people. Caravaggio is one artist who features in this beautiful Renaissance church. There is a wooden pulpit with painted panels, fairly unusual for Roman churches; the façade was carried out by Domenico Fontana following a design by Giacomo della Porta; San Luigi is immortalised in a fresco by Natoire, and Il Domenichino frescoed Santa Cecilia's chapel. © wcities.com 5 Piazza Navona DESCRIPTION: During the Christmas season this square is packed with stalls selling toys, sweets and decorations for the Nativity scene or Christmas tree, making it a favourite spot for children. Its unusual shape recalls the time of Domitian, who built a stadium for equestrian displays here. The Fountain of the Rivers, with the obelisk, and the Fountain of the Moor, with the god of the sea, at the centre of the square, are both by Bernini. © wcities.com . 17 Day 4 - continued... location: piazza Navona Rome 00186 6 Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi DESCRIPTION: The Fountain of the Four Rivers is in the centre of Piazza Navona. It was built between 1648 and 1651 from marble and travertine by Bernini. The fountain represents a large rock, which seems to emerge from the water on which an Egyptian obelisk from the Roman era stands. The rock is inhabited by allegorical animals and plants and decorated with the coat of arms of the Pamphili family. Four large statues represent rivers of the then-known areas of the world: the Danube for Europe, the Ganges for Asia, the Rio de la Plata for America, and the Nile for Africa. The last is covering its eyes so as not to see the iniquities taking place before it in the square, the commerce practised by merchants and tradesmen. © wcities.com contact: tel: +39 6 679 4406 fax: +39 6 679 0922 http://www.chiesasantignazio .org/ location: 8a Via del Caravita Rome 00186 wcities 7 Sant'Ignazio di Loyola DESCRIPTION: This church was built in the first decade of the 17th century to pay homage to the founder of the Jesuit Order. The magnificent splendor of this chapel is typical of the period. Inside, you can admire the precious stones, gilding, marble and stucco work. For the frescoes they called upon the artist Andrea Pozzo, who designed the 'trompe l'oeil' effect ceiling featuring a cupola. A cupola was designed but never built, due to the proximity of the monastery of Dominican friars, as it would have blocked the light in their living quarters. © wcities.com . contact: tel: +39 6 6830 0230 http://www.romecity.it/Pan_th eon.htm location: piazza della Rotonda Rome 00186 hours: 9a-7:30p M-Sa, 9a-5:30p Su 8 The Pantheon DESCRIPTION: Commissioned by Marcus Agrippa, restored by Domitian, and subsequently rebuilt by Hadrian (who added the dome) before being turned into a church in the early 7th century by Pope Boniface IV. The building's sole source of light is the opening at the dome's apex (the oculus); according to popular legend, this formed the base for the bronze pinecone that is now in the Vatican's 'Pigna' courtyard, where it is used as a fountain. Many famous Italians are buried in the Pantheon, including Renaissance painter Raphael and King Vittorio Emanuele I. © wcities.com . 18 Day 4 - continued... contact: tel: +39 6 699 0339 fax: +39 6 699 0672 http://www.basilicaminerva.it/ location: Piazza della Minerva 42 Rome 00186 hours: 8a-7p M-Su contact: http://www.romaturismo.it/v2/ allascopertadiroma/en/itinerar i05.html location: piazza del Campidoglio Rome 00186 contact: tel: +39 6 700 4261 / +39 6 700 5469 http://www.museidiroma.com/ colosseo.htm location: piazza del Colosseo Rome 00184 hours: 9 Santa Maria Sopra Minerva DESCRIPTION: Piazza della Minerva is just off Via della Minerva behind the Pantheon. The name of the church, Santa Maria sopra Minerva, was given by the church's position as it is believed it was built over the Roman temple dedicated to Minerva Calcidica. Work began on the church in 1280 but the façade was only completed in 1453. In fact this was meant to be temporary but it has remained unaltered despite many plans up until the 19th century to modify it. The interior is the only example of Gothic architecture in Rome. The 3 naves are crowned by cross vaults resting on marble pillars, but the most arresting sight is the decoration which is a true work of art. The chapels are decorated with frescoes and mosaics by artists like Melozzo da Forlì, Andrea Bregno, Verrocchio, Giuliano da Maiano, and Filippo Lippi but just as worthy are the statue of Christ Risen (also known as Christ the Redeemer) by Michelangelo who depicted Christ with the symbols of his martyrdom embracing the Cross, the funerary monuments of Popes Leo X and Clement VII by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger behind the altar, and the Tomb of Cardinal Domenico Pimentel designed by Bernini. The funerary monument and sarcophagus of St. Catherine of Siena were restored for the Jubilee. On one side of the church can be seen the former convent which was once the offices of the Ministry of Education and now of the Ministry of Scientific and Technological Research. It also holds the Casanatense Library with texts from the history of the Church. In the centre of the square in front of the church stands a small Egyptian obelisk known as the Pulcin della Minerva. © wcities.com Photo courtesy ofSanta Maria sopra Minerva A Piazza del Campidoglio DESCRIPTION: Reorganisation of Piazza del Campidoglio began in 1539 as part of a plan undertaken by Pope Paul III. It was the first square created as part of a plan conceived by Michelangelo in which a space was created between Palazzo Senatorio and Palazzo dei Conservatori bounded by a new symmetrical building. The square is in the shape of a trapezoid with the Palazzo Senatorio on the longer side (the seat of the city council's administrative offices) and the Capitoline Museums on either side. Michelangelo also designed the monumental flight of steps that leads to the square on either side of which were the Dioscuri designed by Giacomo della Porta. Michelangelo also designed the pavement in the centre of which stands the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius which survived the Middle Ages as it was thought that it represented the Emperor Constantine, the protector of the Christian religion. © wcities.com . B The Colosseum (Colosseo) DESCRIPTION: No visit to Rome is complete without having seen its magnificent Colosseum, a vast amphitheatre with seating for 55,000 that was designed as a horse racing circuit and arena for animal fighting and gladiatorial battles. Upon its completion, spectacular 100-day celebrations were organized as part of the opening ceremony in 72 AD. Its name is believed . 19 Day 4 - continued... 9a-7:30p end Mar-end Aug, 9a-7p Sep, 9a-6:30p Oct, 9a-4:30p end Oct-mid Feb, 9a-5p mid Feb-end Mar contact: tel: +39 (0)6 48 8991 (Tourist Information) fax: +39 (0)6 481 9316 (Tourism Board) http://www.romaturismo.com/ v2/operatoriprofessionali/it/sp ietro.html location: piazza San Pietro Rome 00193 hours: 24 hrs contact: tel: 39 41 52 09 16 6 www.rialtohotel.com location: San Marco 5149 Ponte Di Rialto Venice VE 30124 to come from Nero's enormous statue of Colossus that stood close by. © wcities.com C Basilica di San Pietro (St. Peter's Basilica) DESCRIPTION: People come by the millions each year to receive the Pope's blessing, traditionally given on Sundays at noon. St Peter's has undergone many transformations since the original Constantine basilica of AD320. The top of its majestic dome (designed by Michelangelo), provides the best vantage point from which to marvel at Bernini's magnificent colonnade surrounding the square, the gilded bronze canopy above the altar and Michelangelo's Pietà. Bramante, Pietro da Cortona and Canova are just a handful of the many other artists who worked together on this monumental basilica's decoration and design. © wcities.com . D Hotel Rialto DESCRIPTION: Hotel Rialto is a traditional Venetian property situated adjacent to the Rialto Bridge and within 500 metres from Saint Mark's Square. Contemporary guestrooms are decorated in a Venetian style and all come equipped with satellite television and minibars. Guests can sip cocktails in the hotel bar before sampling Italian specialties on the terrace of the hotel restaurant. . 20 Day 5 - Venice QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: After your two day excursion to Florence and Rome you are most likely in need of an easy day. To recuperate your energy take a short boat ride over to visit the Chiesa di S. Giorgio Maggiore. Near Piazza San Marco and your hotel you can visit the Palazzo Ducale and see the Ponte dei Sospiri. For dinner try Da Remigio. Whenever I go to Venice I always have pasta al nero seppia, at least once. contact: tel: +39 41 528 9900 http://www.turismovenezia.it/e ng/dynalay.asp location: Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore Venice 30133 hours: Daily 10a-12:30p, 2:15p-5:30p contact: http://www.museicivicivenezia ni.it/frame.asp location: San Marco Venice 30124 hours: 1 Chiesa di S. Giorgio Maggiore DESCRIPTION: The only building on the San Giorgio Maggiore island, this church was built in 1566 AD. It is built inside a Benedictine monastery (that was erected in 1000 AD) in accordance with a plan by Andrea Palladio. The bright interior is covered with paintings by Carpaccio and Tintoretto, such as 'L'ultima Cena' and the 'Raccolta della Manna'. From the bell tower, there is a magnificent view of San Marco. © wcities.com . 2 Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) DESCRIPTION: Legends, passions, hopes and despair form the emotional history of the ever famous Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, a must see for every visitor to Venice. Connecting the Palazzo delle Prigioni (Palazzo of the Prisoners) and the Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace), the Bridge of Sighs is where prisoners going from their trial and . 21 Day 5 - continued... 24 hrs contact: tel: +39 041 271 5911 fax: +39 041 528 5028 http://www.museicivicivenezia ni.it/frame.asp location: San Marco 1 Venice 30124 hours: Nov-Mar Daily 9a-5p; Apr-Oct Daily 9a-7p contact: tel: 39 41 523 0089 location: Castello Ponte dei Greci 3416 Venice 30131 contact: tel: 39 41 52 09 16 6 www.rialtohotel.com location: San Marco 5149 Ponte Di Rialto Venice VE 30124 conviction in the Doge's Palace, would look across the bridge at their last glimpse of freedom before entering the prison and let out a sigh. Over the years it has gained a more hopeful out look being known as the bridge where if two lovers kiss under it, most likely in a romantic gondola, their love will last. To "walk the last walk" over the Bridge of Sighs, you will need to take a tour of the Palazzo Ducale or Palazzo delle Prigioni. © NileGuide 3 Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) DESCRIPTION: Located next to the Basilica di San Marco, the Doge's Palace has been the symbol of Venice's political life and public administration for hundreds of years. The building has been continuously evolving into its present form since 1340, even though its fundations date back to the early Middle Ages (10th century). Considered a masterpiece of the gothic style, it has been destroyed many times, most notably during the fire of 1106. It was rebuilt by Barbarossa in 1177 and modified over the time by the different Dogi reigning in Venice. More than a palace, the Palazzo Ducale is an extensive infrastructure, comprising the apartments of the doge (often used as an exhibition space), the government quarters and the palace of justice. When visiting the palace, many parts are worth the detour. In the Museo dell'Opera, you'll see the remaining pieces of the building's medieval facades as well as a collection of sculptures dating from the 14th and 15th Centuries. Before heading towards the Doge's appartments, you'll enter the magnificent courtyard. Take some time to walk alongside the Loggias to enjoy the various angles of the Palazzo. In addition to the Institutional Chambers and the Prisons, take some time to see the great collection of weapons and armaments in the Armoury. © NileGuide . 4 Da Remigio DESCRIPTION: This osteria is located in Calle del Magazzen near Santa Maria Formosa. Da Remigio is characterised by professional staff and good service. The menu features risottos, pasta dishes and appetizers made from fish from the lagoon and shellfish. The wine list is good, and offers a range of local and national varieties. © wcities.com . 5 Hotel Rialto DESCRIPTION: Hotel Rialto is a traditional Venetian property situated adjacent to the Rialto Bridge and within 500 metres from Saint Mark's Square. Contemporary guestrooms are decorated in a Venetian style and all come equipped with satellite television and minibars. Guests can sip cocktails in the . 22 Day 5 - continued... hotel bar before sampling Italian specialties on the terrace of the hotel restaurant. 23 Day 6 - Venice QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: In the morning visit the Galleria dell’Accademia Museum. For the afternoon visit the Chiesa di San Salvador, Piazza San Polo, and the Chiesa di S. Nicola da Tolentino. For dinner try the Osteria Alla Patatina. contact: tel: +39 (0)41 529 8711 (Tourist Information) location: Campo San Polo Venice 30123 hours: 10a-5p M-Sa, 1p-5p Su contact: tel: 041-523-6717 http://www.chiesasansalvado r.it location: Sestiere di S.Marco 4835 Venice 30124 hours: Daily 9am-noon and 3-6pm 1 San Polo DESCRIPTION: San Polo and Santa Margherita are the largest piazzas in Venice. Coming from San Toma the church is barely visible and the bell tower, detached from the building, is visible from the other side of the 3m-wide street. In the oratory hangs 'Via Crucis' by Tiepolo. © wcities.com . 2 Chiesa di San Salvador DESCRIPTION: The interior is classic Renaissance, built by Giorgio Spavento, Tullio Lombardo, and Sansovino between 1508 and 1534; the facade is 1663 baroque. It includes a pair of sculptures (Charity and Hope) by an elderly Jacopo Sansovino, who may also have designed the third altar, which supports one of the church's treasures, Titian's Annunciation (1556). Titian also painted the Transfiguration (1560) on the high altar. Ask the sacristan to lower the painting so that you can see the ornate 14thcentury silver reredos (ornamental partition) hidden behind. In the right transept rests Bernardino Contino's tomb for Caterina Cornaro (d. 1510), Benvenuti 24 Day 6 - continued... the one-time queen of Cyprus who abdicated her throne to Venice and ended up with Asolo as a consolation prize. © Frommer's contact: tel: +39 (0)41 529 8711 (Le Informazioni Turistiche) http://www.turismovenezia.it/e ng/dynalay.asp location: Campo dei Tolentini Venice 30124 3 Chiesa di S.Nicola da Tolentino DESCRIPTION: This church was built by V. Scamozzi in the last 10 years of the 16th century. It houses paintings by Palma il Giovane and the Padovanino. Mass is held on a regular basis; call ahead for further details or drop in here for a day filled with prayers. © wcities.com hours: Call for details . contact: tel: +39 41 522 2247 http://www.turismovenezia.it/e ng/dynalay.asp location: Dorsoduro 1050 Venice 30121 hours: 9a-2p M, 9a-7p Tu-Sa, 9a-8p Su contact: tel: 39 41 523 7238 location: 2742 Sestiere San Polo Venezia 30123 contact: tel: 39 41 52 09 16 6 www.rialtohotel.com location: San Marco 5149 Ponte Di Rialto Venice VE 30124 4 Galleria dell'Accademia DESCRIPTION: Containing the world's finest collection of Venetian paintings, the Galleria dell' Accademia houses works of art by Mantegna, Bellini, Carpaccio, Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese, Tiepolo and Canaletto – arranged for the most part in chronological order from room to room. A sophisticated tour through Byzantine, Gothic, Pre-Renaissance, High Renaissance, and Baroque art, the Galleria dell'Accademia is easily reached by crossing over the wooden Academia Bridge, having been named after the Galleria itself, residing on the Grande Canal. © NileGuide . 5 Alla Patatina DESCRIPTION: This trattoria is located on the bridge which leads into Campo San Polo. Its name comes from the old tradition of serving chips on cocktail sticks accompanied by a glass of wine. Now Alla Patatina is a pretty trattoria. It is small and welcoming. It is worth a visit because of the quality of its food. It serves typical Venetian dishes such as meatballs, fried vegetables in breadcrumbs, and also pasta dishes. This can all be washed down with a glass of local red or white wine. © wcities.com 6 Hotel Rialto DESCRIPTION: Hotel Rialto is a traditional Venetian property situated adjacent to the Rialto Bridge and within 500 metres from Saint Mark's Square. Contemporary guestrooms are decorated in a Venetian style and all come equipped with satellite television and minibars. Guests can sip cocktails in the hotel bar before sampling Italian specialties on the terrace of the hotel restaurant. . 25 Day 7 - Venice QUICK NOTE DAY NOTE: For you last day in Venice you will undoubtedly go to Piazza San Marco for last minute photos. Before you leave today go over to visit to out-of-the-way churches, Santa Maria dei Derelitti and San Francesco della Vigna. Also, near Piazza San Marco is another church worth visiting, Santa Maria del Giglio. If you have time left in the day visit the Palazzo Labia. contact: tel: +39 41 524 2812 http://www.turismovenezia.it/e ng/dynalay.asp location: 275 Campo San Geremia Venice 30131 hours: Call for details contact: tel: +39 41 529 8711 (Le Informazioni Turistiche) http://www.turismovenezia.it/e ng/dynalay.asp location: 2786 Castello Venice 30122 hours: 1 Palazzo Labia - Salone del Tiepolo DESCRIPTION: Built from Istria stone in the 17th century, this palace is characterized by three facades that are decorated with eagles, from which one can see the Canale Grande. Tiepolo painted a fresco on the walls and ceiling of the Salone to mark the occasion of a marriage of someone from the Labia family. This is now the headquarters of the Veneto region's RAI and can only be visited by appointment, on Wednesday, Thursday and Friday; call for details. Admission is free. © wcities.com . 2 San Francesco della Vigna DESCRIPTION: According to tradition, toward the middle of the 13th century, the son of the Doge Pietro, Marco Ziani, donated a vineyard to the Friars and the church was built here by Jacopo Sansovino 300 years later. The façade, commissioned by the patriarch of Aquileia, was later restored by Palladio. It seems that long before, on the same site, there was the church of San Marco, to commemorate the place where San Marco . 26 Day 7 - continued... Call for details location: Salizzada Santi Giovanni e Paolo Venice 30123 hours: Su 10a-5p , M-Sa 1p 5p was met by an angel on his way back from Aquileia. The sober interior houses paintings by Veronesi and Bellini. © wcities.com 3 Santa Maria dei Derelitti DESCRIPTION: Due to its location adjacent to a hospital, this church is also known as the 'Ospedaleto'. Slightly obscured by the narrow street on which it stands, the beautiful building dates back to the 17th century. Designed by B. Longhena, it was paid for by B. Cagnoni. Inside are several paintings thought to be by Tiepolo. © wcities.com . contact: tel: +39 41 522 1188 location: Campo Santa Maria Del Giglio O Zobenigo Venice 30124 hours: 10a-5p M-Sa, 1p-5p Su 4 Santa Maria del Giglio o Zobenigo DESCRIPTION: A short walk from the Fenice theatre and Gritti's residence stands this luxury hotel. The Gothic façade, recently restored to its original splendor, is adorned with 4 statues representing the Barbero family. On the lower part of the façade there are maps of fortresses and inside are paintings by Tintoretto and Rubens. © wcities.com . contact: tel: 39 41 72 1687 fax: 39 41 72 1687 location: Santa Croce 1395 Venice 30121 5 Antica Bessetta DESCRIPTION: This restaurant is located in Salizada de Ca'Zusto, near Campo San Giacomo da L'Orio. The service is good, and this is a popular place. The specialities are fish dishes. The wine list is superb, with excellent reds, fruity whites, and prosecco. © wcities.com 27 My List location: Piazzale Michelangelo Florence 50125 1 Piazzale Michelangelo OUR LOCAL EXPERT SAYS: "Bring a picnic lunch or dinner and enjoy the sunset with someone special." DESCRIPTION: The vista which one can see the whole valley of Florence and of the surrounding hills is a must see. The climb up is rewarding, the view is breathtaking. There are buses available to take you to Piazzale Michelangelo. Tourists, tourist groups and tour buses all congregate at this panoramic view. Vendors set up early in the morning with cool beverages for the parched tourists and souvenirs for the eager shoppers. A sunset visit is for the romantics, bringing a wine bottle and gazing at the florentine sky as it ends another day. There is no bad time to visit Piazzale Michelangelo, there is always something to see. © NileGuide Katie Greenaway 28 Florence Snapshot Local Info Florence is full of culture to offer the new traveler. The art and architecture is what sets Florence apart from the other cities in Italy. From theDuomo to thePonte Vecchio toSan Miniato, there is so much to see and explore. The wonderment of Florence flows over its visitors bringing smiles to their faces. Each neighborhood has something to show off as well. Santa Croce holds the leather shops as it's trademark. San Frediano has the artisan shops that have been operating for centuries. Campo di Marte expresses anything and everything about Viola, the color of the Fiorentina football(soccer) team. The markets are a token viewpoint of how the locals live. There are markets all over the city in every neighborhood. Each having their own personality and locals that have been coming for many years. The one thing that is great about Florence is that you can easily get lost and end up finding a treasure. There are always little streets that nobody ever sees and shops that are kept a secret. Explore the city because there is so much more to see than the Ponte Vecchio. Enjoy the traditions of the Fiorentini, such as having a caffe at the bar around 11am when Piazza Repubblica is bustling. On Sundays, take a stroll through the center and window shop. On Saturday, shop at the local markets and enjoy chatter of Italian in your ear. Florence's main attractions consists of the Duomo, Ponte Vecchio and theUffizi Gallery. During the high season these places are filled with visitors and sometimes it takes a while to see. Plan ahead and enjoy these attractions in a calm and timely matter so not to rush your visit. Florence is known for it's secrets and little treasures that are found throughout the city. For example, have you ever noticed the tiny wine doors in the walls of the Palazzo's? These wine doors were made for the rich to sell their wine to the peasants on the streets of Florence. When the local wealthy families had excess wine from the harvest they would sell it out of these windows. What you would do is knock on the door and slide the money in as they opened it. Then the person behind the door will then fill a glass of wine to go. Some of the windows around the center still are in it's authentic wooden structure others have been boarded up. Another fact about Florence, if you look around in the center of Florence, at all the big Palazzo's and smaller buildings as well. You will notice some of the windows that are missing. The whole frame of the window is there but the window is missing. Italians were taxed higher when they had so many windows. So they filled in each window that they didn't want to pay an extra tax on. The most famous landmarks in Florence are the Ponte Vecchio(Old Bridge), Il Duomo and The Uffizi Gallery. The Ponte Vecchio is the oldest bridge in Florence, that currently has gold and silver shop aligning the bridge. Previously housing butchers, the Ponte Vecchio holds onto the tradition of gold and silver shops making it a very posh street to purchase your goods on. Il Duomo(Santa Maria del Fiore) is what brings flocks of people to Florence every year. The gothic style church was begun in 1296 with the design from Arnolfo di Cambio and the dome was completed in 1436 by Filippo Brunelleschi. The church has one of Giorgio Vasari's famous fresco which covers the inside of the dome. The Uffizi Gallery is yet another attraction most visitors look to visit when arriving in Florence. From Da Vinci to Caravaggio, you have a pick of the great works of the Renaissance period. San Giovanni(Duomo) San Giovanni takes its name from San Giovanni Battista(St John the Baptist), patron saint of Florence, in whose honor the Baptistery was built. The historic city center(centro storico) is most representative of Florence. The layout of the district follows a road system created by the Romans(known as thecardus anddecumanus system). In thecentro storico, you will see the enormous, imposing structure of the cathedral Santa Maria del Fiore, referred to mostly commonly as the Duomo(from the Latindomus, meaning house of God), with its cupola designed by Filippo Brunelleschi, a beautiful dome that adds splendor to the city skyline. The city has also preserved its medieval network of streets, lined with regular, geometric Renaissance palaces such as the Palazzo Strozzi and Palazzo Medici-Riccardi, which once belonged to Florence's powerful, oligarchic families. Florence is divided into five districts and the center is divided into four sections(San Giovanni, Santa Croce, Santa Maria Novella and Santo Spirito). The university and the Tribunale di Firenze(which is housed in the Complesso di San Filippo Neri) are also in this district. Santa Maria Novella Named after the Santa Maria Novella Basilica- a Dominican basilica and important cultural center during the Middle Ages, the district of Santa Maria Novella covers the area west of the train station where a majority of affordable hotels and the city's largest park is located. The train station of the same name(designed in 1932 by the young architect Giovanni Michelucci) is also situated nearby. Not far from the station is the Fortezza da Basso, a former stronghold of the city which is now used as an important center for conferences, conventions and exhibitions. The zone is also home to the Parco delle Cascine, one of the city's green oases. In this district also lies exclusive boutiques that are concentrated in a few of the most well-known streets, such as via de' Tornabuoni and via della Vigna Nuova. Via de' Tornabuoni is famous for being home to some of Italy's most prestigious designer boutiques e.g. Versace and the Florentine Salvatore Ferragamo. Santa Croce Santa Croce is named after Santa Croce church, a medieval Franciscan basilica. The National Central Library(Biblioteca Nazionale Centrale di Firenze) is also located here. Santo Spirito(Oltrarno) The entire stretch of the side of the river opposite the majority of the city's tourist attractions, the Oltrarno is home to many locals, small eateries and amazing tourist sights such as San Frediano to San Niccolò. At its heart is probably one of the most incredible Renaissance churches and piazzas: the Piazza Santo Spirito, which has retained much of its historic charm and is filled with workshops of the city's traditional artisans. This piazza is the place for parties on summer evenings, bringing together young Florentines and foreigners, many of whom live in this area. The Palazzo Pitti with its old Medicean garden and the Boboli Garden, are both in Oltrarno. The famous Piazzale Michelangelo(with 29 Florence Snapshot continued its panoramic view) is also in this district. From here, it is possible to see one of the few remaining stretches of medieval wall around the Belvedere that was spared from demolition in the 19th Century. Included in this is the lovely medieval gate of the Porta Romana. Campo di Marte& Fiesole The Campo di Marte is located outside of what used to the be the medieval city wall and is home to many historical buildings dating back to the early 20th Century, as well as to many modern stone and cement apartment blocks which were built after World War Two. There are also numerous sports venues, athletic facilities and the Stadio Artemio Franchi, Fiesole, and the Bellariva zone are close by; these are swathes of Piagentina countryside that always induced feelings of nostalgia in Tuscan painters. Gavinana& Galluzzo Gavinana and Galluzzo are south of the Arno and lead to the well-known Chianti wine region. On the southwestern side lies Galluzzo, famous for its Carthusian monastery. Isolotto& Legnaia Combining areas of the city that were developed during the 1960s and 1970s(and are still expanding!), Isolotto and Legnaia are home to commuters and enormous American hotel chains. The Isolotto district was once the scene of various clashes and social unrest during the 1960s. Rifredi Rifredi in the northwestern part of the city where, by the 15th Century, the Medici had already constructed some of their many country villas, among which Villa di Careggi, the villas of Castello and La Petraia in the Castello. In this district there are also several industrialized, residential zones, such as Novoli, Firenze Nova, Brozzi, Le Piagge and l'Olmatello. Brozzi, the zone is host to many Chinese and African immigrants. The influx of immigrants means that even a city like Florence cannot live forever in the past but must create a new multi-ethnic history. © NileGuide History The history of Florence stretches back as far as the 8th Century BCE when a primitive settlement lived in the valley, close to the Arno."Florentia" is recorded as an official Roman colony in 59 BCE and was designed according to the typical Roman road system, which can be seen in many Italian cities today. There are two principal roads: thecardus descends from the Baptistery to Via Roma and continues on to Via Calimala, while thedecumanus stretches from via del Corso to via degli Speziali until it reaches via degli Strozzi. The Forum(public meeting place and market) was built at the point where the roads meet, on what is now the Piazza della Repubblica. During Roman rule, Florence was the most important city in Roman Tuscany. Florentia was invaded by numerous tribes in the following centuries: Goths,"Silicone", Ostrogoths and Longobards. Many inhabitants adopted Christianity at the time of the Silicone, and the first churches appeared outside the Roman walls of Florentia: San Lorenzo and Santa Felicita were built during the 4th Century CE and can be visited today. Charlemagne's arrival put an end to the colony's expansion. Buildings were still constructed however, and the Baptistery dates back to this time. The city flourished in the 9th and 10th Centuries, a great deal of money was spent on the construction of many religious buildings, e.g. the Badia Fiorentina. Many public works were undertaken, including the building of the city walls in 1078. Florentia was a cultural and economic success! Florence's wealth and power grew at an enormous pace; a second set of city walls had to be built; the district of Oltrarno became part of the city and Romanesque-style architecture ruled(e.g. San Miniato and Santi Apostoli churches). Florentine craftsmen became involved in textiles(beginning with the trading of wool and silk), which lead to gradual urbanization. Political tension began to rear its ugly head in the 13th Century as two political factions(the Guelphs and the Ghibellines) fought for power. At the end of the 13th Century, there was something of a cultural revolution. A major player in this revolution was the architect Arnolfo di Cambio who designed the Palazzo dei Priori(which became the Palazzo della Signoria a century later and then the Palazzo Vecchio) and also started work on the reconstruction of Santa Maria del Fiore, which was completed in successive centuries. Arnolfo also continued with the construction of the third and final set of city walls. The city was devastated by plague in 1348, and political conflicts were still rife. The Ciompi Revolt of 1378 occurred as a result of the people's frustration—the poor reacted against their unjust governor. Meanwhile, Florentine merchants and bankers were already working hard to increase their wealth in order to attain power over the nobility. Lorenzo de'Medici played an important role in Florence's history; he strengthened the political interests of the nobility, while dedicating himself to his love of the Arts and philosophy. The city underwent a cultural rebirth. After Lorenzo's death in 1492, the city came under the harsh, puritanical rule of the fanatical Dominican friar, Girolamo Savonarola, who was elected to the leadership of the Republic. He was so unpopular for his preachings that he was burned at the stake six years later by angry citizens. The leadership of the city was unstable for several years after that with the arrival of French troops under King Charles VIII, but the de'Medici clan regained power and Florence had her first Duke in 1530, and then Grand Duke in 1569. The succession of the Grand Dukes of the Medici family continued until the end of the 18th century, but Florence gradually lost the central role it had occupied in preceding centuries. The last heir of the Medici's handed over power and all the family's riches to the House of Lorena, whose rule continued until 1859, when Florence was united with the rest of Italy(which later became the Kingdom of Italy). Florence was only the capital of this kingdom for a few years(1865-1871) and the court transferred its official residence to the Palazzo Pitti. A lot of urban design and restructure took place during the 19th century, including the construction of embankments along the Arno and piazzas in the centre of the new districts of Barbano and Mattonaia(which are now Piazza dell'Indipendenza and Piazza D'Azeglio). The"arnolfiane" wall and the Jewish Ghetto(which was situated in the current location of the Piazza della 30 Florence Snapshot continued Repubblica) demolished to make way for a series of ring roads which were to lead to the Piazzale Michelangelo and the Piazza della Repubblica. World War Two had a devastating effect on Florence. The city sustained many damages, especially to its bridges and the area inside the Ponte Vecchio. The flood of 1966 further hindered the preservation of valuable Florentine treasures, resulting in a restoration process that will be on-going well into the 21st and 22nd Centuries. © NileGuide Hotel Insights Italians say that it will certainly take you more than a day to drink in the beauty of Florence, you will need to stay for at least a long or extended weekend. It is also true to say that it can be a problem to find a room in Florence, especially if you decide to visit on the spur of the moment. To save yourself unwanted trauma, it is always best to book in advance. Florence is always popular with tourists and often the more cost-effective hotels are full in November. You will also find that hotel prices are high even during low season. If you decide to drive to Florence, take note that the municipal police will not allow you to enter the city unless you have a hotel booking or unless you need to unload your luggage. If you must use a car, it is important to stay at a hotel that has parking. Santa Maria Novella Many of the city's hotels are located in this centrally-located district; close to the train station and all the tourist attractions. If you want to stay near the splendor of the Santa Maria Novella, then try Hotel Aprile. Five star hotels are sprinkled throughout the city and some of the best of these hotels include: the Grand Hotel and the Westin Excelsior,(both are in piazza d'Ognissanti) these are the places where the VIPs and politicians stay when they come to visit the city. The Villa Medici has an enticing swimming pool, and is close to the Piazza della Repubblica, as is the Helvetia& Bristol. The Croce di Malta faces the Piazza Santa Maria Novella. The Astoria Palazzo Gaddi is inside a beautiful palazzo which has glorious ceilings decorated with frescoes. If you arrive in Florence by train, you will find many hotels around the Stazione Santa Maria Novella that are either two or three star. Via Panzani(leading to Piazza del Duomo) and Via Nazionale, have a wide choice of reasonably priced hotels, many of these are family run establishments, housed in historic palazzi. The Annabella and the Nizza are only a few of the long list of hotels that will welcome you and treat you well, as you enjoy your trip to this beautiful city. courts(should you fancy a little exercise). On the outskirts of the south the Holiday Inn Garden Court and the Sheraton beckon. If looking for a view of the Arno, then the Park Palace is for you. © NileGuide San Giovanni(Duomo)& San Marco Tuscan cuisine, and Florentine food in particular is essentially based on simple, natural ingredients. It hails from the traditions of peasant food and is wholesome and tasty. For comfort and elegance near San Marco, try the Hotel Regency in Piazza Massimo D'Azeglio, a pleasant, peaceful piazza. Many fantastic four star hotels are also scattered throughout the district, the pick of the bunch are: the Grand Hotel Baglioni, which is conveniently located between the Piazza della Stazione and the Duomo, this hotel has a stupendous terrace view. Il Brunelleschi, housed in the splendid, Byzantine Pagliazza tower, was a female prison during the Middle Ages. Il Calzaiuoli is also situated in a prime spot, between Piazza del Duomo and Piazza della Signoria. The Hotel Loggiato dei Serviti and Le Due Fontane are to be found in the setting of the Piazza Santissima Annunziata. Santo Spirito(Oltrarno) Perhaps you would like a view of the Arno? Lungarno has been recently renovated and faces the river. Campo di Marte& Fiesole You can also find a wide choice of threestar establishments along the banks of the Lungarni in this district, these are a little further out of town, but you can easily reach thecentro on foot within a matter of minutes: such as the Hotel Columbus. Novoli If you are coming to Florence for business rather than pleasure, you may find it easier to stay near to the airport or the main motorways. In the north of the city, you'll find the Hotel Alexander and the Hotel Fleming. Gavinana& Galluzzo If you want to lose yourself in the midst of the city and be immersed in the green of Viale dei Colli, then the Grand Hotel Villa Cora is ideal, you can take a dip in the pleasant pool, or you can try the four star hotel, Relais Certosa in Certosa del Galluzzo, with its own splendid tennis Restaurants Insights Extra-virgin olive oil is held in pride of place in Florence, and it is never missing from the Florentine table. Olive oil from Tuscany is cold-pressed, green and pungent orpizzichino(sometimes with a slightly bitter after-taste) and is eaten within a year and a half of harvesting the olives. Olive oil is used as a dip for foods such as celery, artichokes andpinzimonio(a selection of fresh vegetables). It is also used in cooking, and as a condiment for salads and deliciousbruschette. Amongst the bruschette there is one that is king, and must be tasted to be believed! It is made with red cabbage and beans and then seasoned with ground pepper and Frantoio oil. If you want to indulge in Florentine bread you should remember that in general, bread in Tuscany does not use salt. Tryschiacciata if you want a more flavorful bread—this is a crusty focaccia salted and drizzled with olive oil. A typical Florentine antipasto dish is a recipe calledcrostini di fegato, pieces of Florentine bread which have been baked and dunked in soup, and then garnished with chicken liver pâté, capers and anchovies. Another traditional Florentine specialty is the famousbistecca alla fiorentina. The steak comes from Chianina, a region near Tuscany which produces the Chianina breed, regarded as possibly the oldest breed of cattle in the world. It is thick cut, weighs not less than 800g, cooked on the grill, served rare and, on occasion, with a wedge of lemon on the side. AFiorentina can satisfy two people, but there are those brave enough who will attempt to eat one all by themselves! The soups andminestre are well worth trying and they are derived from peasant traditions. The most delicious, famous 31 Florence Snapshot continued Florentine soup isribollita, made with a mixture of stale bread, beans,cavolo nero(a black cabbage grown in Tuscany, similar to kale or Swiss Chard) and other typical Tuscan vegetables.Ribollita derives its curious name from the fact that the peasant women would usually cook the soup in large quantities that would be boiled repeatedly(ribollita), and then eaten for several days. As with many leftovers,ribollita always tastes better the day after! Other delicious soups arepappa con il pomodoro(a tomato-based soup that's thickened with bread) andminestra di farro(spelt or barley soup with beans, tomatoes, celery and carrot). While some of these soups might not sound terribly appealing to your palate, they are absolutely delicious, simple and hearty. Do you have a sweet tooth?Schiacciata alla Fiorentina is a special Florentine treat: an orange-flavored sponge cake, covered with confectioner's sugar(often with a cocoagiglio, or lily- the symbol of Florence —sprinkled onto the center) and filled with pastry or whipped cream. Although typically served around Carnevale, it can be found at Florence's pastry shops year round.Cantuccini di Prato are dry almond biscuits that are dipped in Vin Santo, a sweet, aromatic dessert wine. Pizza Italy is famous for its pizza and pizzerias can be found in almost every nook and cranny of Florence, although getting a typical Neapolitan-style pizza might be a bit of a challenge: Florentine crusts tend to be thin and crispy, cooked in a woodfueled oven. If you prefer the"traditional" Neapolitan pizza, it is almost always possible to ask for a pizza withdoppia pasta(double crust), which means you'll get a softer, thicker crust. Try Ciro& Sons for a slice of Naples in Florence. International Cuisine Recent years have seen a big growth in the amount of ethnic restaurants, ranging from the Chinese restaurants to Mexican(Cafè Caracol), from Indian(Ashoka or Ristorante India), to Japanese(Momoyama) and there are also many other restaurants in various areas of the city. Vegetarian Vegetarian cuisine has also made an impression on Florence! Ruth's is next to the Synagogue and sells Kosher, vegetarian fare. Il Vegetariano serves wonderful meat-free and organic dishes and is a huge success in the city. © NileGuide Nightlife Insights Tuscan Specialties These specialties can be found in the majority of Florence's restaurants. Some of the more famous, traditional restaurants include: Il Latini, Trattoria Mario, Coco Lezzone and La Casalinga, there are also many others, so don't feel dismayed if you don't get into the places above. Although Florence is quite a small city, it is inundated with visitors, ex-pats and students; this is great news if want to have an evening of raucous fun, or if you prefer to follow more cultural pursuits. Visitors and Florentines alike are impressed by the wealth of entertainment that they find on offer here. Haute Cuisine If you fancy something more"refined", or if you want to celebrate a really special occasion, then it is worth spending that little bit extra and going to Enoteca Pinchiorri, or Il Cibreo, you could also try Cammillo, although you will definitely need to book in advance. Cinema Wine Bars There are also manyenoteche or wine bars in Florence: here you can drop in, relax and have a glass or two of good Chianti with a sandwich. In the most elegant places e.g. Enoteca de' Giraldi and Enoteca"La Sosta del Rossellino", you can try delicious wines accompanied by tasty bruschette and delicate appetizers. La Barrique wine bar is also very popular and has an extensive wine list. Going to the cinema has become an increasingly popular pastime since the mid-1990s, and the number of cinemas has increased to meet the needs of the people in Florence; many of the city's multiplexes have been renovated and reopened. This change in the amount of cinemas that exist has created a climate of"non-stop cinematography" and fewer cinemas close down during the summer months. Florentine cinemas are very varied; there are modern one-screen halls, massive multiplexes and small independent cinemas. The Cecchi Gori Group owns the most cinemas in the city and the majority show general releases and(dubbed) American blockbusters, although the Atelier group makes sure that Art house theatre is kept alive. Atelier have six cinemas that show good quality independent films and directors and actors will often attend previews and answer audience questions. On Wednesdays, prices are reduced and many Florentines go to the movies. However, one of the best times to go to the cinema is during the summer; between the months of June and September: you can watch a new release or one of the previous winter's"smashes" in the open air, as you sit beneath the stars. Some of the"normal" cinemas will remain open; many of these have air-conditioning, which is a great way to avoid the humidity of a Florentine summer, not to mention all the mosquitoes! One cinema in the historic center, the Odeon, caters to the international community showing films primarily in English, and sometimes the occasional French or Spanish-language cinematic phenomenon on Mondays, Tuesdays and Thursdays. Theatre Although there are many more cinemas, compared with the amount of theatres, it is unfair to say that Florence favors the"Big Screen" to the stage. The Florentine theatrical tradition has always been noteworthy, for example, the famous Maggio Musicale Fiorentino attracts many well-known people. The range of productions is very varied too, there are upbeat comedies by Neil Simon at Teatro della Pergola, or more provocative, thought provoking dramas such asA Streetcar Named Desire at the Teatro Manzoni. If Shakespeare is more your thing, then the Metastasio Theatre will meet your highbrow needs! Cafés, Bars& Pubs In Florence(and everywhere else) most people want to go out and stay out until late at the weekend; this city has a large number of bars and discos, which people can enjoy any day of the week. For a quiet evening, drinking and chatting late into the night, why not try Caffè Pitti in Piazza Pitti, or Hemingway close to Santa Maria del Carmine. At il Genius you can relax with friends and play board/card games. Zoe, Dolce Vita and Porfirio Rubirosa are a little more crowded and lively, while Cafè Caracol has a Latina vibe. If you are more of a wine lover, then try Pitti Gola or Cantina. Maybe you fancy a pint? Both 32 Florence Snapshot continued The William and Chequers are British in style,(perhaps to meet the needs of the many ex-pats who make their home here!) They sell an infinite number of beers, and snacks accompanied by good music and are populated by Florentine beer lovers and foreigners alike. Clubs Lots of tourists like to check out the clubs and discos when they are on holiday. Florence offers a great variety of nightspots, it is possible to choose from mainstream discos such as Meccanò, where you might meet a VIP or two), and the fabulously cheesy Andromeda, or more specialist rock bars such as Tenax(popular with many young Italians) and the Auditorium Flog. There are many nightclubs(especially during the summer) with theme nights, where people can dance, listen to music and chat. These include Pongo, which is close to Teatro Verdi and il Lidò on the banks of the Arno, which attracts at least half of the city. As you can see, Florence has much to attract the cultivated wine drinker, the cinephile or the perpetual party boy/ girl.Divertitevi! © NileGuide Things to Do Insights Piazza del Duomo is a great place to start a tour that will uncover some of Florence's historical beauty. Not only is the piazza rich in history, but it's an architectural delight too. One of the first sights you will see is the Battistero di San Giovanni, dedicated to St John the Baptist and one of the oldest buildings in the city. It was constructed in its current form in the 11th Century. Besides the beautiful interior which is richly decorated with mosaics, there are glorious medieval and Renaissance bronze doors by Andrea Pisano and Lorenzo Ghiberti. The pair of doors designed by Ghiberti that the public sees on the Baptistery are replicas and the originals are located nearby at the Museo dell'Opera del Duomo. The museum is situated on the piazza, behind the apse of the cathedral. Amongst other things, it contains precious sculptures as well as exhibits connected to the buildings that are dotted around the piazza. In front of the Baptistery is Santa Maria del Fiore, which was built by Arnolfo di Cambio in 1296 to replace the old Santa Reparata cathedral. The archaeological remains of this cathedral are in the basement of the present church. Di Cambio's building was only completed 150 years later with the addition of the enormous cupola(dome) that sits above the church's transept. Filippo Brunelleschi, a truly gifted Renaissance architect designed the dome. It is possible to reach the top of the cupola(access is on the right hand side of the church), which is 107m from ground level but there is no lift so you will have to climb over 450 steps. It is definitely worth climbing the steps, not just for the beautiful view that awaits you at the top, but also so that you can begin to appreciate the mastery of Brunelleschi, as the cupola is truly an extraordinary feat of architecture. The interior of the cathedral itself is also well worth visiting, even though at times there can be a queue. Amongst other things, you will be able to see the frescoes beneath the cupola, painted in the second half of the sixteenth century by Vasari and Zucchari. The frescoes cover an area of around 3600m2 and represent theLast Judgment. It is also worth taking a look at the Sacristy where Lorenzo de'Medici sought refuge during the Pazzi conspiracy when his brother Giuliano was killed in the cathedral in 1478. Here you will also see the lined marquetries created by a group of artists including Giuliano and Benedetto da Maiano. There are two frescoes on the right of the nave as you turn towards the exit:Giovanni Acuto(Sir John Hawkwood) by Paolo Uccello andNiccolò da Tolentino by Andrea del Castagno. As you leave the cathedral, you will see the Campanile di Giotto. Giotto, the renowned Medieval artist himself began work on the tower prior to his death in the 14th Century. In this case too, a climb to the top is recommended—but take care if you suffer from vertigo! Walk down Via Calzaiuoli—along which you will find hundreds of shops selling all manner of goods—and in a few minutes, you will reach the Piazza della Signoria, the political center of Florence. The focal point of the piazza is the imposing Palazzo Vecchio(also known as the Palazzo della Signoria). This palace once housed the government of the city of Florence and has been enlarged several times over the centuries. Arnolfo di Cambio(the same architect who designed the cathedral), created the palazzo in 1294. The section that is not dedicated to the museum retains its function as the offices of the Town Council. The second internal courtyard houses the only public baths in the city center. On the Piazza della Signoria, you'll come across the Loggia dei Lanzi, originally a public meeting place which is now an openair museum where you can view several sculptures by Giambologna(Rape of the Sabines) and Baccio Bandinelli(Hercules and Cacus). Besides this, there is also the ManneristFountain of Neptune by Bartolomeo Ammannati and the equestrian monument toCosimo I, by Giambologna. There is a 19th-century copy of Michelangelo's magnificentDavid too, which stands in front of the palace gates. At this point you have a choice. You can either visit the Galleria degli Uffizi(probably one of the most important art collections in the world), which is only a short walk from the piazza, or, weather permitting, relax at an open-air café, e.g. the Rivoire(a popular choice), which is famous for its hot chocolate with cream—absolute bliss! Medici Residences You can begin your visit with what was the residence of the Medici family, from Cosimo il Vecchio until the Grand Duke Cosimo I: Palazzo MediciRiccardi in Via Larga, now known as Via Cavour. The palace was comissioned by Cosimo il Vecchio, designed by famed architect Michelozzo in 1444 and finally enlarged by the Riccardi family when they took over ownership of the palace. Today it is seat of Florence's Prefettura and official offices of the province of Florence. From the interior courtyard, it is possible to visit the Cappella dei Magi(Chapel of the Magi), frescoed by Benozzo Gozzoli and magnificently restored for the 1992 anniversary of the death of Lorenzo de' Medici. Throughout the fresco there are numerous portraits of major Florentine figures of the time as well as members of the Medici family. Some of the famous faces include leaders of the Eastern Orthodox church and John VII Palaiologos, Byzantine Emperor, both figures present in the city during the Council of 1439. In the palace there is also the Biblioteca Riccardiana, with an entrance on via dei Ginori 10, which features one of the greatest library collections in the city with manuscripts purchased from Riccardo Riccardi and it has been open to the public since the early 18th Century. The library 33 Florence Snapshot continued is adorned with sculpted interiors of the 1700s. Around the corner from the Palazzo Medici is the Chiesa di San Lorenzo, one of Florence's ancient churches, rebuilt in the 1500s by Filippo Brunelleschi and his architectural team. One of the true Medici churches, it contains the tombs of many of their famous family members, from Giovanni di Averardo and his wife Piccarda Bueri, in the Sagrestia Vecchia, to Cosimo il Vecchio, whose tomb is found in the crypt, directly beneath the church's high altar. In the Sagrestia Nuova, a work of Michelangel, we find on one side the tombs of Lorenzo il Magnifico, and his younger brother Giuliano who was murdered in the Pazzi Conspiracy in 1478, and on the other the tombs of Lorenzo, Duke of Urbino and Giuliano, Duke of Nemours. In the adjacent Cappella dei Principi(Chapel of the Princes), an opulent 17th-century design, we find several tombs of Medici Dukes and their wives. Next to the church are the numerous stands of the San Lorenzo Market where you can buy clothing(new and used), shoes and other trinkets that are great gifts for friends and family. If you're looking for local food products, the nearby Mercato Centrale, Florence's largest market, you can find everything from fruit and vegetables to meat and fish, at affordable prices. While you're there, why not try a lampredotto sandwich, a Florentine specialty that not all foreigners are willing to taste. Returning to the via Cavour and following it upwards, you arrive at piazza San Marco, where the Church of San Marco is found. The historic monastery previously belonged to the Sylvestrines and in 1418 was handed over to the Dominicans. Thanks to the financing of Cosimo il Vecchio, the church and monastery were able to enlarge. While at the church, you simply can't miss the Museum of San Marco that includes part o the Dominican monastery where Fra' Giovanni da Fiesole(perhaps better known as Fra' Angelico, Antonino Pierozzi(bishop and Florentine saint), Girolamo Savonarola, and in most recent times Giorgio La Pira, the unforgettable mayor of Florence. A suggested starting point on the tour of the church museum if the Cloister of Sant'Antonino, and then from the Sala Capitolare where Fra' Angelico frescoed one of his masterpieces, theCruxifiction. On the first floor of the monastery, spread out through three corridors that open onto the monks' cells, all decorated with frescoes with religious scenes entirely done by Fra' Angelo and his workshop. This is, without a doubt, one of the most interesting and emotional parts of the complex. Not fear from the piazza is the Accademia di Belle Arti where the small off-shoot building of the Galleria dell'Accademia, in which, among the many works of art, is the original copy of theDavid by Michelangelo as well as other works by this well-known Florentine artist, such as thePrisoners. This museum contains four of the statues that were originally designed for the final resting place of Pope Julius II(a Medici); however, it was never realized. Given the pretense of several offices of the university, particularly in via degli Alfani, there are many bakeries, small grocery stores and bars where you can getschiacciatine(a foccaccia-like bread with salt, olive oil and sometimes peppers, olives and other savory treats on top, sandwiches, or coldprimi at affordable prices. This also means that you can find sit-down places that don't overcharge if you don't take your meal or coffee at the bar. This zone is also characterized by the presence of specialized libraries, copy shops and printing offices. From the piazza San Marco, you can easily arrive in under a couple minutes to the piazza della Santissima Annunziata, with the Basilica Mariana della Santissima Annunziata, and on the right side, the colonade designed by Filippo Brunelleschi for the Ospedale degli Innocenti, a true masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. At this point, you ought to be tired, and if you decide to head down the via dei Servi, towards the Duomo whose magnificent cupola is visible from the middle of the piazza, or turn down the via della Colonna and arrive at the Archaeological Museum, to appreciate and superb Etruscan and Egyptian artifacts. Oltrarno Towards the Ponte Vecchio, characterized by the numerous jewelry shops, which originally butcher and leather makers that lined the river, and in crossing this famous bridge you arrive in an area known as the Oltrarno. The area is more formally known as Santo Spirito and today has unique artistic characteristics that distinct it from other parts of the city. During the summer, it is not difficult to find locals sitting on chairs in front of their apartment buildings, chatting and discussing the day's events. This has always been an area where many artists have lived and worked, something that is still quite visible today with the numerous restoration and art studios that line the streets. Shortly after crossing the bridge, on the left there is the Chiesa di Santa Felicita, Florence's oldest church, restored in the 18th Century. Up a bit further is the large piazza on an incline which leads to the entrance of the Palazzo Pitti, originally a residence of the Pitti family who went broke constructing and decorating it to outdo the Medici...who eventually purchased it in 1565 to save Luca Pitti from impending debt. Today the palazzo houses five museums, but if you don't want to stay cooped up indoors and the weather permits it, it is strongly suggested that you visit the Boboli Gardens, which is easily accessible from the palace's courtyard. The extensive gardens go from the hills to the Forte Belvedere, a fortress of the city; however, if you can't make it to the top, a walk amongst the trees and sit on the benches to enjoy the beauty of the gardens. Following these suggestions, just outside the piazza Pitti is the splendid via Maggio(previously known as the via Maggiore), lined with gorgeous 16thcentury palaces that belonged to Florence's most noted families, not to mention all the lovely antique shops that are on both sides of the road. Shopping here is really élite, reserved for those who can afford to buy an expensive villa or an expensive Renaissance-era piece of furniture. There are also more affordable shops in the area where you can find items to bring home as souvenirs. Walking down these narrow streets that characterize this area you will inevitably find yourself in front of the Chiesa di Santo Spirito, Brunelleschi's last architectural triumph. In front of the church, every morning, there are different markets, and once a month there is an antiques markettruly an event to not miss out on. There are plenty of choices for dining in this area: bakeries, grocery shops, but also small, family-run trattorie with homemade meals and outstanding menus at affordable prices. By this point, if you aren't already exhausted, you can take the main street 34 Florence Snapshot continued back towards the Chiesa di Santa Maria del Carmine, even if it's just to see the chapel of Felice Brancacci that he commissioned from Masaccio in the 1420s. The frescoes are truly a masterpiece of Early Renaissance art, works not to miss. The entrance to the chapel. The entrance to the chapel is from the piazza, on the right side of the church. © NileGuide Travel Tips Getting There By Air Florence's Amerigo Vespucci Airport(+39 055 373 3498/ http:// www.aeroporto.firenze.it/) is just six miles northwest of downtown, but handles a limited number of airlines. It has recently been renovated to accommodate more passengers and more airlines. They include: Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http:// www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800 223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/) Austrian Airlines(+1 800 843 0002/ http://www.aua.com/) Belle Air( +355 42 40 194/ http://www.belleair.al/) Brussels Airlines(+1 516 740 5200/ http:// www.brusselsairlines.com/) Carpatair(+44 208 602 7077/ http://www.carpatair.ro/) Continental( +1 800 231 0856/ http:// www.continental.com/) Flybaboo( http:// www.flybaboo.com/) KLM( +1 800 374 7747/ http://www.klm.nl/) Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http://www.lufthansa.com/) Meridiana(+39 0789 52682/ http:// www.meridiana.it/) Sterling Airlines( +44 0870 787 8038/ http://www.sterling.dk/) Swiss Airways( +1 877 359 7947/ http:// www.swiss.com/) From the Airport Bus: ATAF(+39 055 56 501/ http:// www.ataf.net/) provides bus service every 30 minutes between 6a-11:30p. The ride takes about 20 minutes, depositing passengers at the Santa Maria Novella Rail Station. Cost: EUR4.50. downtown area near Santa Maria Novella train station. Avis(+1 800 831 2847/ http:// www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800 654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com/) Europcar(+39 041 541 5654/ http://www.europcar.com/) National(+1 800 227 7368/ http:// www.nationalcar.com/) By Train Ferrovie Dello Stato, or FS(http:// www.trenitalia.it/), the Italian state railway, enjoys a sound reputation for efficiency. Since Florence is on the main Rome-Milan Line, riders are offered a variety of daily options, including Intercity trains(IC), known for their express service. Santa Maria Novella, the city's main train station located in the north end of Florence, handles most of the rail traffic. Rifredi, a much smaller station, offers a limited number of rail choices. By Bus Lazzi Eurolines(+39 055 363 041) handles international travel connecting Florence with major European cities such as Brussels, Barcelona, Paris and Prague. Its station is located adjacent to the Santa Maria Novella train station. Domestic travel is provided by SITA(+39 055 294 9555/ http://www.sita-on-line.it/) to locations such as Lucca, Volterra, Pisa, Siena, Empoli and more. By Car Autostrada 1(A1), Italy's major highway, juts into Florence from Bologna from the north, and continues south to Rome. E76 connects Florence with Pisa and the Ligurian Sea to the west. Getting Around The Azienda Transporti Area Florentina, or ATAF(+39 055 56501/ http://www.ataf.net/), manages Florence's bus transportation. It services all the major tourist attractions, operating between 5a-1:30a. Fares: 70minute ticket EUR 1.20; one-day ticket EUR 5; three-day ticket EUR 12; seven-day ticket EUR 22. Taxis: Taxis can be found just outside the arrival terminal. Rides to downtown last 15-20 minutes and cost approximately EUR 20-30. Taxi Rental Cars: There are several rental dealers at the airport with offices in the Cars Taxis can easily be hailed at stands found at hotels and major squares throughout the city. A minimum fare starts at EUR 4. Cars are not recommended. Most of Florence's narrow streets are limited to locals with properly marked vehicles and filled with locals zooming around on scooters. And if you dare to drive you will quickly learn that the Renaissance never gave thought to parking. Walking Walking rates as the best means for negotiating Florence's narrow maze of cobblestone alleys and streets. Downtown is very compact with most of the major tourist attractions located within several blocks of each other. Be sure, however, to carry a map. Motorini Mopeds, if anything, will make you look like a local. Riders must be 18 and helmets are mandatory. Alinari(+39 055 280 500), Maxirent(+39 055 265 420), and Massimo(+39 055 573 689) are good rental sources. Expect to pay around EUR 30 per day. Flying Into Pisa(PSA) Pisa's Galileo Galilei(+39 050 849 300/ http://www.pisa-airport.com/)(PSA) is the larger of the two airports that service Tuscany, but is situated 58 miles west of Florence. Major airlines include: Air France( +1 800 871 1366/ http:// www.airfrance.com/) Alitalia( +1 800 223 5730/ http://www.alitalia.com/) British Airways( +1 800 247 9297/ http:// www.ba.com/) Continental(+1 800 525 0280/ http://www.continental.com/) Delta( +1 800 221 1212/ http:// www.delta.com/) easyJet( +44 870 600 0000/ http://www.easyjet.com/) Lufthansa( +1 800 645 3880/ http:// www.lufthansa.com/) RyanAir( http:// www.ryanair.com/) Sky Europe(+421 2 4850 4850/ http://www2.skyeurope.com/) TUI(+49 511 2200 4713/ http:// www.tuifly.com/) United( +1 800 538 2929/ http://www.united.com/) US Airways( +1 800 622 1015/ http://www.usairways.com/) Trains& Coaches from Pisa to Florence Riding the train is a good travel option to Florence. The Pisa Aeroporto station provides a train about one every hour between 6:30a-10:30p. Rides last an hour and a half. One-way fare: EUR 5.40. A new coach service from Pisa to Florence is offered by Terravision(http:// 35 Florence Snapshot continued www.terravision.eu/florence_pisa.html/), with trips taking just 70-80 minutes and costs EUR 8 one-way. Rental Cars: Avis(+1 800 831 2847/ http://www.avis.com/) Hertz(+1 800 654 3131/ http://www.hertz.com/) Europcar(+39 041 541 5654/ http:// www.europcar.com/) Thrifty(+1 800 367 2277/ http://www.thrifty.com/) The drive to Florence on the E76 takes about 45 minutes. © NileGuide Fun Facts Top 12 Florence Facts 1.Weird Fact: Florence streets can be one name at one end of the street and another name at the other end. For example, Via Martelli is the street leading away from Piazza del Duomo then at the first intersection it turns into Via Cavour. 2.Fun Fact: Florence is the capital city of the province of Florence and the Italian region of Tuscany. 3.Interesting Fact:Via Chiantigianais the most beautiful road in all of Italy. Winding through the vineyards and woodlands surrounding Florence connecting to Siena. 4.Weird Fact: Fiascois an Italian word referring to a glass bottle or flask with a long neck. According to the Oxford English dictionaryfiasco--meaning a failure or complete breakdown--comes from the Italian expressionfare fiasco, to make a bottle. Nobody knows how this Italian expression came to be in the English language. Today, old trattorie are still calledfiaschetteria--working men's taverns. Back in the day was known as taverns with hearty, cheap Tuscan wines and later for a more homey Tuscan specialities that paired with the wines. 5.Fun Fact: How do the Italiansreallyeat pasta? The correct technique involves piercing some pasta near the edge of the bowl, not in the center but at the twelve o'clock position, then twirling the pasta around the fork against the rim of the bowl. 6.Historical Fact:In 1339, Florence became the first city in Europe with paved streets. 7.Random Fact:Florence was home to the infamousMedicifamily from the 14th century to the 18th century.Leonardo da Vinci,Niccolo Machievelli,Galileo Galilei, Amerigo Vespucci, Donatello, Raffaele, Roberto Cavalli, and Guccio Gucci,fashion designer andGuccifashion was founded in Florence 1921. 8.Historical Fact:The Grand Duchy of Tuscany was the first state to abolish capital punishment in November 1786. 9.Interesting Fact:Florence has had two floods; one on November 4, 1333 and November 4, 1966. 10.Fun Fact:What would come to be thought of as Italian was first formalized in the first years of the 14th century through the works of Dante Alighieri, who mixed southern Italian languages, especially Sicilian, with his native Florentine in his epic poems known collectively as theDivine Comedy. Dante's much-loved works were read throughout Italy and his written dialect became the standard that all educated Italians could understand. Dante is still credited with standardizing the Italian language and, thus, the dialect of Florence became the basis for what would become the official language of Italy. 11.Historical Fact:Florence Nightingale, famous for revolutionizing the field of nursing, was named for the city of her birth. 12.Fun Fact:Florence is best known for leather and gold © NileGuide 36 Florence Snapshot continued Weather Statistics Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Average High 11 12 16 19 24 28 32 32 27 21 15 11 Average Mean 6 7 11 13 18 22 25 25 21 16 11 7 Average Low 2 3 6 8 12 16 18 19 15 12 7 4 Average High 51 54 61 66 75 83 89 89 80 70 59 52 Average Mean 43 45 51 56 64 72 77 77 69 61 51 45 Average Low 36 37 42 47 54 61 65 66 59 53 44 38 Rainy Days 6 6 6 7 7 6 4 5 7 8 8 8 Rain Fall (cm) 3.4 3.7 3.2 6.0 4.5 3.8 2.3 2.8 5.5 8.6 8.9 5.2 Rain Fall (in) 1.4 1.5 1.2 2.4 1.8 1.5 0.9 1.1 2.2 3.4 3.5 2.0 Temperature C Temperature F © NileGuide 37 Rome Snapshot Local Info Rome is a city that cannot be described in few words. With over 2500 years of history, hundreds of thousands of art works, monuments, and beautiful views, the aptly named Eternal City is interwoven with unparalleled history, beauty and drama. Every monument, palazzo, park and piazza are testament to the many rises and falls of Rome, from its early Repubblican birth and Imperial age through to its 21st century incarnation. Likened to a gigantic open-air museum, Rome is living history and every year, the city hosts millions of visitors-tourists, scholars and pilgrims-- from all over the world. It is chaotic, friendly, aggressive, and relaxed. In essence, a charming contradiction that wins the hearts of its visitors, who always return. Rome is famously noted as being built on seven hills-- the Quirinale, Viminale, Esquilino, Celio, Aventine, Capitoline, and Palatine. The birth of Rome starts on thePalatine, a small shepherding settlement where, as tradition says, Romulus lived when he founded the city. Historically, the Palatine was the"it" hill where Rome's celebrated leaders lived from the Kings of 7th to 5th centuries, to the Repubblican senators and patricians and the Imperial Age's emperors. TheCapitoline hill represents Rome itself- it was the center of the Empire, home to the most important temples(which served for religious as well as political significance) from the 7th century BC through Rome's changing times. Today, the Capitoline hill is centered by the Michelangelo-designed Piazza del Campidoglio, with statue of Emperor Marcus Aurelius on horseback at the very center. Perimetering the piazza are the Capitoline Museums, Italy's most precious sculpture collection, and Rome's city hall. The highest of Rome's seven hills, theQuirinale is home to Palazzo del Quirinale, a former papal and monarchy residence and now palace to Italy's reigning president. Noteworthy is the open piazza, with its looming obelisk and equestrian statues. Opposite the Palazzo is theScuderie, formerly stables and now a gorgeous temporary exposition space for international exhibition. The base of the Quirinale was partially dismantled by Emperor Trajan at the beginning of the 2nd century. What remains are the markets of Trajan and Trajan's column, marking the height of the hill. TheViminale stands next to Quirinale and is smaller in size. The hill is bisected by Via Nazionale, a shopping street where the early 20th century Palazzo delle Esposizioni building resides, and leads upward to the majestic Piazza della Repubblica, a favorite piazza for its double-sided arcade of columns and playful Naiad fountain. Just behind the piazza is Rome's principal railway station, Stazione Termini. Roman poets Virgil and Horace lived on theEsquiline hill, now a very busy neighborhood with Rome's recently favorite Monti neighborhood. The Esquiline's terrain includes three peaks, one of which is Monte Oppio, where Nero built his infamous Domus Aurea. Below the Esquiline and behind the Colosseum is theCelio, Rome's greenest and most charming of hill where the lovely Villa Celimontana park is located. TheAventine, seen from the peak of the Palatine, past the Circus Maximus, is a quiet, residential neighborhood, with remains of Rome's original 3rd century BC Several wall. Rome has expanded these seven hills, and in a city of hundreds of rooftops and domes like San Pietro(St. Peter's Basilica), some of the most beautiful panoramas can be seen from the hills of Montemario, the Pincio, and the Janiculum. © NileGuide History The history of Rome is based on myth, which Romans proudly celebrate every 21st of April. Rome's beginnings start with the fall of Troy, and Aeneas's escape from the burning city. Fleeing by ship with his father Anchises and son Ascanio, he landed on the Italian peninsula. Ascanio eventually founds Albalunga, a community in Lazio. As myth recounts, Ascanio's descendant Rhea Silvia, perhaps predicted to mother a nation, was forced to become a Vestal Virgin so as not to bear children. However, Rhea Silvia was loved by the god Mars and bore him twin sons, Romulus and Remus, who she placed in a basket in the Tiber so they would be killed. The twins were washed up on the Tiber banks, close to the Palatine hill and were nutured by a she-wolf. Eventually, a shepherd raises the brothers. Romulus and Remus grow up and take residence on the Palatine and Aventinte hills, respectively. And as the myth progresses, the brothers argue over who will be the foretold founder of an empire so Romulus kills Remus and founds the city Rome on April 21s, 753 BC. Rome's ancient history covers three distinct periods—the Age of the Kings, the Republican Age and the Imperial Age. From Romulus, the small hillside community was ruled by the"king of the hill" until 510 BC. Seven historic kings who change Rome from a small shepherding town into a cosmopolitan city with complex governing and trading programs and an impressive drainage system. With its constant exposure to far more democratic states, especially Greece, Rome's kings were ousted and in its place was an advanced republic, which is the blueprint for all future democracies. The republic was also characterized by internal struggles that eventually due to the rise of the plebeians(lower class Romans). The Republic was not just city, but a concept that expanded through Lazio, the Italic peninsula and eventually the Mediterranean. For almost four centuries, Rome built unparalleled and nearly infallible republic, accomplishing what Greece, Persia and Egypt could not-- the unification of the East and West. Corruption was rampant, likewise egos and the Republic was shattered with the death of Julius Caesar on March 15, 44 BC. Chaos reigned but 31 BC marks the beginning of the Empire, under Augustus Caesar. The imperial age opened with a long period of peace, Pax Romanus, under the iron grip of Augustus. And by the beginning of the 2nd century under Trajan, the empire's expanse was in its full glory. However, instability and corruption were popular within the empire and likewise within the psyche of the Emperors. Centuries forward brought dilution of the boundaries and of the emperors. Christianity, legalized under Constantine in 312 AD, began to spread and create a strong presence that challenged imperial regime. 38 Rome Snapshot continued Hotel Insights The official fall of Rome is marked at 476 AD, but its decline was seen much earlier. The causes are many: constant relocation of the capital, uncontrollable subjects, quixotic social and economic changes, and finally the arrival and strength of the barbarian tribes. Rome was left as a bandit town, a gangland and an abyss through the Middle Ages. The only ruling party was papal, but again, the city was anarchy. However, the Pope's power evolved from religious to military, and through out the centuries grew exponentially. In 1377, Rome was established as official papal headquarters and by the end of the 15th century, its cultural impact on the city was seen in the papal beautification programs —essentially urban planning. The face of the city changed, as palaces, villas, piazzas and churches were built. New streets were created and the basilica of Saint Peter was leveled and rebuilt, followed by two more centuries of expansion and beautification. Clashes continued between the papacy and Rome's people, and in the beginning of the 1800s, Napoleon changed the landscape as church's estates were confiscated and divided amongst French officials and Italian laymen. The 1800s were an era of unrest through out the Peninsula, with the rising campaign to overthrow the pope and install a monarchy. In 1870, the campaign succeeded and Italy was established as a country free of papal rule, led by both a king and parliament with Rome as its capital. In 1923, Mussolini was elected to Parliament and eventually becomes 20th century tyrant heralding Fascism. World War II caused tantamount strife in Italy as Italy was first part of the axis and then surrendered to the Allied forces in 1943, leading Germany to occupy Rome for over 9 months as the King fled. The city was bombed by the Allies and in April 1944 it was liberated. In 1946, Italy became once again a republic, exiling its monarchy, and ever since, Rome has been the hotbed of Italy's whimsical politics. © NileGuide The"Eternal City" holds a fascination for anyone in search of history or just plain beauty. Students, tourists, businessmen and pilgrims visit Rome at any time of the year, maintaining an uninterrupted flow of tourism that redefines the Eternal moniker. Despite Rome's abundance of hotels, it is not always easy to find a last-minute room, so make sure to research and reserve in advance. Centro Storico(Historic Center) The majority of hotels, both luxury and lax, are found Rome's historic center. Traditionally,Via Veneto is home to Rome's most expensive and luxurious including theAmbasciatori Palace, theHotelMajestic, theWestin Excelsior and theEden— all making deserved appearance in Federico Fellini's filmLa Dolce Vita. Heading down the hill, Rome's other exclusive addresses are the Bernini Bristol overlooking theFountain of Triton, and the omnipotentHassler Villa Medici, at the top of the Trinità dei Monti steps. Now luxury can be found all over the city, from the majesticExedra at Piazza della Repubblica to the celebrity favoriteDe Russie at Piazza del Popolo. For those wanting a little Grand Tour charm, theValadier inPiazza del Popolo, theD'Inghilterra and theDei Borgognoni near the lively Piazza di Spagna, all provide a room with a very beautiful view. Affordable accommodations pepper the city, and some popular pads are found in and around the nooks of Campo dei Fiori, the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, likeHotel Teatro di Pompeo, Albergo del Sole and Relais Palazzo Taverna. If antiquity is of most importance, theForty-Seven,Inn at the Forum and Hotel Gladiatori, with amazing forum and colosseum views, may just fit your needs. Termini Manypensioni and bed& breakfasts are found around Termini station. They are almost always privately run, simply and cheap, making them an ideal choice for budget traveling. The Bee Hive is Rome's favorite for atmosphere and affordability. Trastevere The Trastevere neighborhood has a broad range of hotels, from the luxurious Hotel Donna Camilla Savelli to the more outrageous Goodnight Garibaldi. Parioli/Flaminio For less chaos and green, the upperclass and very residential Parioli neighborhood has the swankyLord Byron hotel, a favorite among business travelers and trystseekers. © NileGuide Restaurants Insights There is a wide, varied selection as far as gastronomy is concerned in Rome; choices range from exclusive high-level cuisine, developed by some of the most famous chefs on the international scene to traditional, heartyRomanesca fare in all its manifold variations; from Jewish cuisine andtestaccina recipes to the specialties of Lazio and ethnic dishes, which can be sampled in the plethora of restaurants that offer delights from all over the world. The only way to really understand the heart and soul of Rome is by tasting its culinary splendors in a popular restaurant, this allows you to steep yourself in Roman culture while you discover the tastes and flavors of traditional cooking through the ages. Delicious Roman cuisine stems from a time when people were unable to afford a meal made with meat, and therefore had to use offal, which at that time was considered less"prestigious" but definitely more affordable. Over the centuries, traditional dishes likecoda alla vaccinara(oxtail cooked with wine, tomatoes and peppers),la pajata,(veal's offal cooked in a tomato sauce),l'abbacchio alla scottadito andla trippa alla romana(tripe), have come to be considered as delicacies and are eaten by even the most refined palates. Centro Storico(Historic Center) If in search of high-class food, Rome offers a great choice of quality restaurants. There are elegant places in the more exclusive hotels, such as La Pergola dell'Hotel Hilton, the Terrazza dell'Hotel Eden or La 39 Rome Snapshot continued Veranda dell'Hotel Majestic. You can also try the delights of creative haute cuisine at restaurants such as Quinzi& Gabrieli, Alberto Ciarla, and Le Sans Souci. Tucked away down a small alley, the exclusive Il Convivio Troiani can be hard to fine, but if you are looking for Italianalta cucina this is your place. Agata e Romeo have offered family run fine dining for three generations. Romeo is an expert sommelier and the restaurant has over 1500 labels in its cellar. Romolo nel Giardino della Fornarina in Trastevere is the perfect setting for a romantic evening; dine outside in the lowlit courtyard where Raphael is said to have courted his lady La Fornarina. Nino is a cozy option, offering classic Roman and Tuscan cuisine in a warm environment. Or, if you are looking for pizza in the center, try Da Baffetto, which has been serving up some of best around since the 1960s. Inspired by the popular filmBabette's Feast, Ristorante Babette has the feel of a 1920s French bistro. Gusto 28 also has a chic early 20th-century feel, and is especially known for its seafood dishes and variety of vegetarian plates. Ancient meets modern at L'Acino Brillo, where creative cuisine and contemporary decor blend delightfully in this hip restaurant and wine bar. the Neapolitan pizza; however, if you are craving a taste of bella Napoli, you can't do any better than Da Vittorio. You will find pizzerias in every corner of the city, but Trastevere offers an especially wide choice of pizza restaurants with wood fueled ovens(these give the pizza a more intense flavor). Panattoni, Ivo, Dar Poeta, Roma Sparita, Arco di San Calisto, are just some of the places from a wide selection of high quality pizza parlors. Remo, in the heart of Testaccio, offers outdoor seating and hip younger crowd. In addition to pizza, don't miss other delicious Roman offerings found at pizzerie and trattorie, such asSupplì al telefono, fried rice balls filled with mozzarella, potato croquettes, fried cod fillets, fried pumpkin flowers, andbruschette,(slices of toasted bread with tomato or oil and garlic). Termini Est! Est!! Est!!! has been around since the early 1900s, and serves thick-crusted pan pizzas as opposed to traditional Roman thin crusted pies. This is a great option if you are in the center of the city and don't feel like heading over to the many pizzerie over in the Trastevere. Vaticano Rosati is also in the center and offers great views with their coffee. A celebrity hot spot during the 1960s and 1970s, they also have a dining room if your espresso leaves you wanting more. Obika off Piazza Navona offers something unique yet stillveramente italiano- a fresh mozzarella bar. A number of varieties of one of Italy's most famous cheeses are served here, accompanied by a nice selection of meats, vegetables and sauces. For gelato, Gelateria Pellacchia in the historical center offers some of Rome's best, as well as coffees and panini. © A relaxing way to enjoy a snack or evening coffee is at one of Rome's many cafés, usually serving coffee, gelato, panini and snacks. The elegant Ciampini is located atop the Spanish Steps, and offers amazing views of the city. The famed Antico Caffè Greco is one of Rome's oldest(open since the 1760), and is definitely one of its most exclusive. Theater Trastevere Pizzerias and trattorie are definitely the most popular places to dine in Rome: informal, economical and with speedy service, they are home topizza alla romana, pizzas with a thin crust and a crispy edge, as opposed to the soft raised crusts of Nightlife Insights Rome's beauty is accessible both day and night and the same is to be said for its vast range of entertainment—theater, cinema, opera, discos; the list is(almost) endless. The theatrical season lasts from October to May and it can often continue through the summer months. Most theatres offer a range of plays and productions, but there is one very special exception: The Sistina is the undisputed home of musicals. There are numerous private, experimental and avant-garde theatres often hosting young artists and offering stimulating, thoughtprovoking works. The Abraxa Teatro, is home to an innovative company, who seek to express themselves and their ideas by using their bodies rather than speech. If your tastes are a little more traditional, historic theatres such as Teatro Argentina, Valle and the Nazionale offer high quality performances by famous actors and theatre companies. The Teatro della Cometa and the Teatro Flaiano offer light comedies. Cinema The cinemas in Rome have greatly improved over the past few years. Many new multiplexes have been built and other cinemas have been completely restored. The cinema scene in Rome today is characterized by a fair amount of small, independent cinemas and many large, modern multiscreen cinemas; these cinemas almost exclusively show commercial films. Some of the better known independent cinemas such as the Greenwich, the Intrastevere, and the Labirinto have united to formCircuito Cinema, a society interested in promoting innovative films, created in an attempt to confront the supremacy of the large distribution companies. Warner Moderno, Metropolitan, Nuovo Sacher and Alcatraz often show English-language films. Summer is definitely the most romantic time to enjoy a film at the outdoor cinema on Isola Tiberina. Live Music Live music is popular in Rome. There are an increasing number of places offering live music from Italy, America, England, Africa and South America. The most successful venues are concentrated in certain areas such as the Testaccio quarter, including places like Akab and Radio Londra. The Trastevere quarter is the home of the historic Big Mama. The Alexanderplatz in Trionfale is also recommended. Classical Music Classical music lovers are also catered for, the city has a varied concert season; there is chamber music at the Accademia di Santa Cecilia and the Gonfalone organizes delightful baroque music concerts. The"symphony season" at the Teatro dell'Opera takes place in Terme di Caracalla during the summer, but the Associazione Il Tempietto offers concerts throughout the year. The elegantly furnished and imposing Teatro dell'Opera is the only theatre in Rome, which offers an operatic season of any importance and in summer, opera is performed outdoors in the enchanting Terme di Caracalla or the Piazza di Siena. Discotheques 40 Rome Snapshot continued Discos are very popular amongst the glamorous Romans; the elegant, formal crowd(politicians, actors and VIPs) often like to go to 1980s style clubs. The more"serious" clubbers frequent Via Galvani in Testaccio, the heart of Rome's night life. During the summer months, many discos relocate to the beaches of Fregene and Ostia, and some even to the Tiber banks for RomaEstate. Pubs& Bars Discos aren't the only places that are popular on the weekend; pubs, beer gardens, restaurants and bars all teem with life. Many of theselocali perform more than one function. For example, a cocktail bar will sell beer or allow you to surf the Internet before you hit the dance floor. Many cafés stay open late. The most popular and lively cafés are in the splendid Trastevere district in Via Veneto and Piazza Navona like the classic Caffe della Pace. Wine bars tend to be laid-back, informal and welcoming. These are great places to have a snack while sipping some excellent wine. Try the Trimani Il Wine Bar and the Cul de Sac in Piazza Navona. Pubs and beer gardens in Rome tend to have a British theme, they serve many different beers, and true to the good old'Brit' style, you can enjoy a game of darts with your pint! Places to be"seen" in include the Fiddler's Elbow and the Victoria House. © NileGuide Trevi Fountain, immortalized in Fellini's filmLa Dolce Vita. Although you are not allowed to wade through the fountain as Anita Ekberg famously did, legend has it that throwing a coin in ensures a return trip to Rome. On the other side of the Pantheon is the oval0shaped Piazza Navona which was once a Roman circus(hence its shape) but designated as a square in the 15th Century. Bernini's famous Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi is located here, along with Fontana del Nettuno. Piazza Campo de' Fiori is also close by. By day the square hosts one of the most famous street markets in Italy, and is a popular meeting place for tourists as well as local youth during evening hours. The Spanish Steps or Scalinata Trinità dei Monti, at Piazza di Spagna, are another of Italy's most famous meeting places. Vatican Heading the list of Rome's ancient monuments is of course the Colosseum. Inaugurated in 80 AD, it is the symbol of the Imperial Capitol and draws visitors from all over the world. Even if the lines are long, a tour of this ancient arena is well worth it. Many of the works that were uncovered during the original excavation can now be seen in the Vatican Museums. St. Peter's Square is one of the most visited places on Earth. People come from all over the world to see Saint Peter's Basilica and receive the Pope's blessing, traditionally given Sundays at noon. Leave plenty of time to tour the Musei Vaticani(Vatican Museums), which house numerous masterpieces, including Michaelangelo's Sistine Chapel and Rapahel's School of Athens. Just east of the Vatican on the Tiber is Castel Sant'Angelo. Originally constructed as a mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian in 139 CE, the fortress was used as a castle during the 10th Century and eventually as a papal residence. The last act of Puccini's masterworkTosca took place here, and today the building has been turned into a museum. The Ponte Sant'Angelo stretches over the Tiber and was also constructed by Hadrian, intended to link the tomb with the center of Rome. The Forum © Things to Do Insights Colosseum The Palatine is the oldest part of the city and home to the many of the ancient sites. To the North of the Palatine hill are the vast remains of the Roman Forum, once the social, political, and economic center of the city. Pantheon, Trevi& Navona The Pantheon, with its rotund interior and open ceiling, was constructed circa 125 BC and is now used as a Christian Church. One of Rome's famous landmarks is the Travel Tips Airports Fiumicino Leonardo da Vinci(FCO) International airport and Ciampino(CIA) airport(www.adr.it) are Rome's two hubs for air travel. Fiumicino is the transatlantic traveler's delight with its numerous shops and restaurants. Fiumicino has long and short term parking, and easily connected to Rome by a thirty minute train ride, bus or taxi. Ciampino is hub for European travel, especially for budget airlines like Ryan Air and Easy Jet. Ciampino is connected to Rome by bus, shuttle and taxi. From the Airport Fiumicino-Leonardo Da Vinci International Airport (FCO) Train: The Leonardo Express runs directly from the airport to the main rail terminal,Termini, as well as Tiburtina and Trastevere stations, with trains every 30 minutes from 6:35a-11:35p. Tickets are purchased either from teller or automated machines, and must be validated prior to boarding. Children under 12 accompanied by an adult ride free. Follow signs for"Stazione FS/Railway Station," located on the second floor. Bus:"Sit Bus Shuttle" to and from airport to city center(Piazza Cavour e Stazione Termini, in Via Marsala). Bus stop is found in front of Arrivals at Terminal 3. Tickets are purchased on bus.http://sitbusshuttle.it Taxi: Rome's official taxis are white with black identity codes on the door. A ride from the airport the city center is EUR40, with supplemental baggage fees. Wait in the official-regulated taxi lines rather than falling prey to non-licensed drivers. Ciampino Airport(CIA) Bus: to and from Ciampino to Termini Station by busesATRAL, COTRAL, SIT and TERRAVISION. The buses are parked in dedicated bus bays opposite International Departures. Train Rome is a major hub for Italian rail, at Termini Station. It is managed and maintained by the Italian State Railway(http://www.trenitalia.com/) and offers a variety of options for continental as well as local travel. The EuroStar and Freccia Rossa are the high speed lines traveling up and down the peninsula. Most of the trains arrive and depart at Rome's Termini station, including all InterCity, regional and national trains, with a few international trains stopping at Ostiense and Tiburtina stations. Bus Tiburtina Station(http:// www.romatiburtina.it/), north eastern part of Rome, is the base for most intercity buses. The bus terminal is located adjacent to the rail station. Euroline(http://www.eurolines.it/) 41 Rome Snapshot continued and Cotral services bus lines that run internationally. Car All roads lead to Rome. The A1, Italy's famed superhighway running from Milan to Naples, makes sure to pass through Rome. The A24 spans east and the SS1 Aurelia coastal route splits the A12/E80 between Genoa and Rome. All converge with Rome's ring road, the Grande Raccordo Anulare(GRA). With gas prices paid by the liter and toll roads littering the motorways, driving can be quite expensive. Check out the Autostrada website(http:// www.autostrade.it/) for toll info throughout the country. Driving in Rome can be a harrowing experience. The historical center is a restricted driving zone(Zona Trafica Limitata- abbreviated ZTL), and nonresident vehicles are prohibited M-F 8a-6p and Sa 8a-1p, enforced by major fines. Paid parking spaces are marked by blue lines and are all over the city. Parking Termini is located in front of the main train station and is open from 6a-1a. ParkSi and Parking Ludovisi are located near the Villa Borghese. Another option are theparcheggi di scampio lots, located farther outside the city center usually near metro stops. Around EUR2 a day, this is a very economical but riskier option as lots are unattended. Public Transport ATAC is Rome's public transportation provider for buses, trams and metro line. Tickets are 1 euro, and require validation before travel. Duration is 75 minutes. Buses run 24 hours a day throughout the entire city. TheMetropolitana or metro has two lines(A and B) recognizable by large red signs marked"M". The lines crisscross through the city, intersecting only at Stazione Termini and run from 5:30a-11:30 everyday, and until 12:30a on Saturdays. Children under ten years ride free. For information about special tickets like the allday pass and to plan your route, visithttp:// www.atac.roma.it/(Italian only site). Taxi Rome's official taxis are white and have a black identification number on the door reading Comune di Roma. Use only these authorized taxis, as they are metered and regulated-- and make sure to keep a close eye on the meter. Normal starting fare(between 7a-10p) is EUR2.80; night fares are higher(10p-7a) EUR5. Remember that Sunday and holiday fares also apply between 7a-10p, and rate per mile increases if you travel outside the city limits. Bring plenty of small bills as Roman taxi drivers are notorious for not having change! Taxi Companies include: Cooperativa Radiotaxi Samarcanda Radiotaxi 3570 © NileGuide Fun Facts Interesting Fact: SPQR, Rome's nearly 2500 year-old mottoSenatus Populus Romanus(aka the Senate and the People of Rome) is also the motto of Rome's waste removal organization.Fun Fact: Rome is a capital city which contains the world's smallest country, Vatican City, of 108 acres, within the boundaries of the Eternal City's original urban sprawl.Weird Fact: Visitors have the opportunity for a sneak peak at purgatory. The Museum of the Souls in Purgatory sits in side room of the Church of Sacred Heart of Suffering, just across the river from Piazza Navona. The museum showcases artefacts that have traces from souls suffering in purgatory. Not limbo, but purgatory, the 8000 year waiting room between heaven and hell. Massimo/Massimiliano.University Fact: Rome's first university, La Sapienza(est. A.D. 1303), is the largest in Europe with over 100,000 enrolled students and the second largest in the world.Soccer Fact: Most Romans lovecalcio(soccer), and Rome sports two teams: Roma, the traditional anti-establishment, working class team and Lazio, the slightly more staid club. Make sure you know which colors to wear(red/yellow or blue/white) and how to identify team symbols– very useful when arguing with a taxi driver.Museum Fact: Rome's museum traverse ancient to contemporary art, but there are several offbeat culture caches as well including: a Pasta museum, Horror museum(by director Dario Argento), a Purgatory museum, Carabinieri museum(military police), and the museum of police cars and uniforms.Ancient History Fact: Rome celebrates its 753 BC foundation every April 21st. All shops, businesses and schools are closed in celebration of Romulus' foundation of the city.Fake Fact: Most Romans can trace their lineage back to Julius Caesar and his merry men. More likely, the true Roman is someone who can trace his family heritage in Rome only back seven generations.Bridge Fact: The Ponte Rosso is Rome's oldest bridge from the first century BC. It has been damaged and repaired several times, but to no success. Even Michelangelo Buonarotti could not keep that bridge from falling down.Food Fact: Rome has an ice cream shop,gelateria, on ever corner which feature flavors from traditionalcioccolato to more fanciful tomato and basil. Everyone has a favorite gelateria and everyone has an opinion. Tanning Fact: Rome is approximately 13 miles from the beachOstia- an easy and inexpensive train trip for a quick tan- 20-minute and 1 euro via ATAC, Rome's public transport © Random Fact: the majority of all souvenir sellers are named either Marco or 42 Rome Snapshot continued Weather Statistics Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Average High 13 14 16 18 23 26 29 30 26 22 17 14 Average Mean 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 Average Low 4 4 6 8 12 16 18 19 16 13 9 6 Average High 5 56 60 64 73 79 84 85 79 72 63 57 Average Mean 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 32 Average Low 39 40 43 47 54 61 65 66 62 56 48 42 Rainy Days 8 11 6 6 6 2 2 3 6 9 8 9 Rain Fall (cm) 3.8 3.7 3.2 5.2 2.7 1.7 1.2 1.4 4.1 8.9 6.2 5.6 Rain Fall (in) 1.5 1.5 1.3 2.0 1.0 0.7 0.5 0.5 1.6 3.5 2.5 2.2 Temperature C Temperature F © NileGuide 43 Venice Snapshot Local Info Connected by nearly 400 bridges over 117 bodies of land and with 150 winding canals to top it off, the City of Bridges is a myriad of waterways and cobblestone paths that will take you on an adorable journey through this fragment of Italy's unique history. Traffic-free streets give the city an amazing air of quiet sophistication, marked by plazas and extraordinary Catholic churches, it's no wonder Venice is one of Italy's most sought-after travel destinations. Along the northeast coast of Italy, in the region of Veneto, the city of Venice is divided in half by what you might call"Main Street," a waterway known as the Grand Canal, a romantic lovers' paradise. Gondola taxis take visitors from one island to another, often tagging on a little singing for an extra buck or two. Still, the price is worth it as this is one of the most unique cities in the world which, despite huge influxes of tourists each year, maintains a sense of dignity and culture unlike any other. Multi-colored marble pillars and onionlike domes are hardly comparable when it comes to the great basilicas of the world and St. Mark's Basilica is a classic. Floor-to-ceiling mosaics and numerous museums along the main plaza are not to be missed. Of course, feeding the pigeons and snapping photos against this majestic backdrop is an obligation for first timers. Nearby at Murano Island you can take in the traditions of glass blowing with a demonstration performed by artisans who have been passing down the technique for generations. Beautiful hand-made jewelry and sculpture are also available for purchase for those who simply can't resist. Further into the lagoon you'd best be advised to literally get lost. Part of the excitement of this city is exploration and the best way to do it is simply by walking. Cross bridges, peek into antique stores, stop off for some delicious gelato, and simply follow the winding paths. Few places in the world are built to such a human scale, allowing you to use your most basic means of transportation, your feet, to really appreciate the city. Each year for 40 days preceding Easter is the world-famous Carnevale, in which festivities dating back to 1162 crowd the streets and plazas with performers dawning costumes and masks that will delight your fantasies for years to come. Porcelain, leather, and feathers – these are things that dreams are made of, and Venice falls perfectly in line with these characteristics, a dream waiting to be explored. way. The population mostly accepted their government, and, as there was such a large population, there were few internal divisions. The majority were reasonably well off, which meant that society was fairly stable. © NileGuide Struggles with the Ligurian city of Genoa were a problem until a century later, in 1380, after the war of Chioggia. At this point it was no longer a military obstacle, and even though they now had control of the eastern routes only commercial rivalry remained. History According to official historical accounts, one of the first important events in the history of Venice was the election of the first doge, a type of magistrate, by the Byzantines in 697. His name was Paoluccio Anafesto. The domination of Byzantium is much talked about but has little factual basis. However, the city was already established in 811 when it moved to the Rivoalto, which is now called Rialto, from the islands around Torcello and Malamocco. Agnello Partecipazio was the doge at this time. The remains of San Marco were brought to the city in 829, rescued by two fishermen. The city had more or less taken on its current appearance by 1000, when it was governed by Pietro Tribun. The ordination of power took place in 1177, when Alessandro III met with the Emperor Federico, to negotiate relations between the papacy, the council and the empire. However, in 1204 the situation changed when, after providing ships and equipment for the fourth crusade, Venice first received help to re-conquer Zara. This unusual crusade started out to conquer Jerusalem, but ended up sharing out the remains of the Byzantine Empire; Venice won control of a huge part of the spoils. Thanks to a commercial policy that also set up a strict military stronghold, the territories became their rightful property. The state evolved with the decree of the Great Council in 1297. This act only permitted citizens to participate in the Council if their ancestors had served on it. As a result the number of nobles in power increased which guaranteed, in theory, that they would continue to hold power even if a rival faction took over. As a result, political struggles were poisoned by many private feuds. According to Bartolo da Sassoferrato, although it is true that the nobility were not much respected by the people, they had more respect than in other cities which were governed in the same Events that took place around the middle of the 15th Century would change the fate of the Mediterranean forever. The expansion on the mainland, and the conquest of a great part of Lombardy was the driving force in successive alliances to overthrow an overwhelming power, the first of which was the definitive fall of Constantinople to the Turks. The trade routes, which were the basis of the Italian states, became insecure, and mercantile trade started to decline. The final straw was the discovery of the American continent. The Mediterranean was on the brink of becoming a kind of lake under the threat of the Ottoman Empire. For many, it was the beginning of the end. Although Venice had a somewhat overrated victory at Lepanto, Cyprus fell and the loss of Crete in 1669 was the ultimate insult. Thirty years later, Venice regained possession of Morea for a period of twenty years. The Turkish wars ended in 1718 with the overwhelming victory of the Turks. Venice then enjoyed its last century of freedom under the rule of the nobility; in 1797, Napoleon handed it to Austria, after feigned negotiations. In 1805 he returned to Venice and completed the domination of the city. The industrial structures were knocked down and the city became a shadow of its former self. In 1848-9, it was invaded again by the Hapsburgs, and in 1866, it was united with the Kingdom of Italy. © Hotel Insights Venice attracts many different kinds of people, who come here for many different reasons. In comparison with other Italian cities,"hospitality" in Venice doesn't come cheap; this may be due to the romantic environment(Venice is known as one of 44 Venice Snapshot continued world's"Cities of Love"), or the fact that because Venice has a very particular set up, transport and services are much more expensive, making the hotels more costly. Venice is crowded throughout the year with tourists; a word of advice; however, if you visit during the Carnevale or the Film Festival, you need to book well in advance. If that doesn't ensure you a room, try the hotels in Treviso, Mestre or Padua. San Marco The hotels in this wonderful city have many different qualities: some have historical importance, some offer the best service and some have spawned Italian myths. Many lodgings in the vicinity of Piazza San Marco perfectly fit this category. The Bauer Hotel, the Westin Europa& Regina, the Hotel Gritti Palace and the Hotel Monaco& Grand Canal are some of the best. Dorsoduro Are these places a little too pricey for you? There are accommodations with lower prices and bags of charm in this primarily residential part of the city: Pensione Seguso and Pensione La Calcina. These are great options if looking to stay near the museums and attractions. Castello Near these hotels is Venice's Youth Hostel. If this is full there are also hundreds of rooms to rent(popular with students), economical boarding houses and establishments run by religious orders e.g. Foresteria Valdese. If looking for more private accommodation without the curfew(even though there isn't much to do in Venice after 10p), the Hotel La Residenza can offer guests the chance to be close to all. Lido L'Hotel des Bains, in Lido, witnessed the disastrous love felt by a middle-aged Dirk Bogarde in the filmDeath in Venice? And then there's the Westin Excelsior, which has played host to numerous international screen stars during the annual Film Festival. If looking for more affordable accommodate away from the tourist-filled San Marco and the Rialto, but still close enough to all the sites and transportation, the Albergo Quattro Fontane is very popular during Film Festival season and during the summer months. Outside the City Still not found a place to suit you? More and more people are choosing to stay in Mestre, just across the lagoon, which is served by many buses and trains. If you choose to stay here, the sense of romance may decrease but so will the prices you pay, and rest assured, you'll find a wide choice of comfortable hotels. If you don't mind the distance and you have a car, you could stay in Riviera del Brenta. There are several villas here, which have been transformed into princely residences. This area is also less expensive than Venice. If you like camping then you have to go to Mestre, or Cavallino to pitch your tent or park your caravan. The sites here are well equipped and are linked to San Marco by motorboats. © Restaurants Insights The restaurants in Venice offer a wide variety of cuisines, ranging from international fast food to five-star Italian dishes. Many of the specialties are seafood based, and there are excellent vegetables in-season from the gardens of the Isola di Sant'Erasmo. In autumn, look out for theTorbolino: an immature Pinot Nero whose arrival announces that winter is on its way. For a light snack try an osteria or bar which servescicchetti(meaning"a pick-meup"), usually meatballs, fried vegetables, anchovies, olives and cured meats, or even a sandwich, whose delicious dough is made from the city water. Rialto There are many bars and osterie close to the Rialto Market, which serve fresh food— they are subject to a quality control, which is carried out daily by the local residents. Places like Da Pinto offer high-quality Venetian dishes that cater to locals and tourists alike. Venice loves to have a good drink, as does the whole of the Veneto region. There are many popular wine bars that have become real institutions. Unnamed house wines of varying quality can be found everywhere; to be sure of a good bouquet try Do Mori. A few years ago the Da Fiore, also in this area, was named best restaurant in the world. San Marco A lot of Venice's top-quality gourmet restaurants can be found in San Marco, the most prestigious area of the city. Harry's Bar is a name to remember, as are Do Forni and Antico Pignolo. One of the other cafes located in the piazza, famous for it's coffees, teas, desserts and light lunches, Caffè Florian looks out onto the piazza and offers an exquisite, unforgettable experience. Cannaregio, Santa Croce& San Polo Situated near Piazzale Roma and the University, off the tourist trail, Campo Santa Margherita is always reasonable. This area consists predominantly of pubs, bakeries, gelaterie(ice cream shops) and pizzerias, which cater for a mostly student clientèle. In summer it's the only area that stays open until late at night, much against the will of the elderly population in this district. This is also the"artistic" quarter, where actors, directors, architects, designers and a range of other artistic types hang out. Antico Dolo is one of the most popular eateries that can be found in these districts. © Nightlife Insights Venice is quite a sleepy city, especially when you compare it to other major cities of the world. There are several reasons for this. The first is the high average age of its citizens is one of the highest in Italy. The second is the relative difficulty getting around. This is not a place for cars and other private means of transport, and a boat ride is not really ideal for an evening out. Finally, there is a lack of space for new development in Venice. Cannaregio Besides, by nature Venetians do things differently. They enjoy entertaining friends in the privacy of their own homes. As a consequence, there are very few restaurants which stay open until late— to the point where going for something to eat after the cinema would be a major feat. It is only relatively recently that some restaurants with live music have reopened: Il Paradiso perduto, in the Misericordia district, is noted for its ambiance and its endless disputes with local residents. 45 Venice Snapshot continued Dorsoduro& San Polo Campo Santa Margherita in the summer is an exception to this rule. The presence of hundreds of students on break transforms the square into a pleasure pavilion, with restaurants, live music and extemporaneous art exhibitions. Amongst the most popular are those at Margaret Duchamp, the Caffè Rosso and Ai Sportivi. Another exception is during the Carnevale in February. In September, Campo San Polo houses an open-air cinema, where you can sit under the stars and watch recently films at the Biennale Cinema. San Marco& Rialto The opening seasons of the Teatro Goldoni, the operatic-symphonic Teatro La Fenice and the Malibran) attempt to shift the winter-blues. For those who like a gamble, there are three Casinos: one on the Canal Grande, one in the Lido and the other in Mestre by the airport. Lido Finally, there is the Lido—an island that makes this waterlogged city go bathingmad. But even here, whether you like it or not, the emphasis is on Thomas Mann, rather than Maracaibo. The beach is extremely beautiful, but where it is most beautiful, it is also the most expensive. Where the sand runs out, towards the Murazzi islands, the water is dirty and there are breakwaters. Outside the City In short, one will search in vain for nocturnal activities. There simply is not anything to do. However, if you really can't do without nightlife, you can drive to Piazzale Roma(a true Venetian would need a very good justification for doing so) and then on to Jesolo. © Things to Do Insights A visit to Venice can last a few hours, many months, a few years or the rest of your life; it all depends on what you want to do. It's also possible to take tours to Venice that dwell more on the surrounding area, since the actual city is not that large. Tour One: San Marco The Basilica di San Marco at the heart of the city is a must see. There is little else that illustrates the relationship between Venice and Byzantium so perfectly. The central plan of the basilica is a Greek cross with five large domes, one of which is at the extremity of the cross, and one at the crossing of the transept. The main façade looks out over the Piazza San Marco, with four portals that lead into the body of the church. There were originally five portals, but one, facing towards the Piazzetta, has been transformed into a large window. Immediately next to the church, and in perfect harmony with its neighbor is the Palazzo Ducale. Built as a simple castle, this has evolved into a symbol of Italian architecture and engineering from the proto-modern period. It is home to art works of exceptional importance, but unfortunately has also lost many pieces to fire at different times. On the other side of the Piazzetta is the National Marciana Library, which contains treasures of Renaissance wisdom that emerged in Venice when the city was relatively free of censorship. Many texts are marked as published in Argentina, but in reality they were the work of thousands of Venetian printers, who produced them in secret. In the Counter-Reformation, the activity of these printers helped to maintain a situation of free communication between different groups. The Museo Correr, which is part of the circuit of city museums, is also in Piazza San Marco. This museum is dedicated to the history and culture of the city, but also contains other exhibits. Under the Procuratie, and above the historic Caffè Florian, is the Museo Archeologico. The Greek community meets right behind San Marco, in the Chiesa di San Giorgio dei Greci church, which is adjacent to the museum of Byzantine Icons. In the Fondaco dei Tedeschi at the foot of the Rialto Bridge you will find the Post Office, while the National History Museum is located in the Fondaco dei Turchi. Tour Two: Castello and Dorsoduro The Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni was started in the secular tradition of the city by the Dalmati, who defended it strenuously until the fall of the Republic. It now holds the Carpaccio cycle, which is of exceptional importance. Art lovers shouldn't miss the Gallerie dell'Accademia, by the bridge of the same name, which houses some treasures of Venetian painting dating from the height of its splendor in the 16th Century. Tour Three: Cannaregio Slightly off the traditional tourist route are sites belonging to ethnic and religious minorities. The secular tolerance of the Republic allowed the persecuted a place to live peacefully in Venice. The Island of San Lazzaro degli Armeni is the center of Armenian Diaspora culture, and there is the Moorat Raphael Palace, near San Sebastian. Venice can also boast the first ghetto in history."Ghetto" is a Venetian word, derived from"getto," referring to the cast of foundries originally in the area, who moved away for security reasons. The word"getto" became"ghetto" since Jewish immigrants from Germany had difficulty pronouncing the Italian"g." A museum and synagogues can be visited here. Tour Four: The Islands Don't miss out on a visit to the islands, which are an integral part of the city's history. Torcello was one of the first to be settled; it was then abandoned as it became unhealthy. There is also Murano, home of blown glass, and Burano, an island of colour and lace. Venice is not just a city of stone, if you hire a boat(although you need to be very specific about the boat you want in a city surrounded by water!) you can cruise through areas of nature for hours in the northern lagoon near Burano. Sights to see include the Convento di San Francesco del Deserto and the valleys. Travelling southwards, you will come across Chioggia and the lagoon of Cason dei sette morti(Lagoon of the Seven Dead). Enjoy oases of fauna, archaeological areas, and hidden islands. Tour Five: Outside the City Once back onterra firma, you can visit Brenta and its river, or take in its beautiful villas. From Malcontenta up to Vicenza and the Villa Capra Valmarana, Padovan architectural influences are visible. Pop into Padua(10-30 minutes by train) if you want and visit the Specola observatory, which belonged to Galileo, who worked for Venice as a mathematician. © Travel Tips Getting There By Air 46 Venice Snapshot continued The Marco Polo Airport(VCE)(+39 41 260 6111/http://www.veniceairport.com) is tucked inland, seven miles north of Venice. Major airlines include: Aer Lingus(+1 800 474 7424/http:// www.aerlingus.com) Aeroflot(+1 888 686 4949/http:// www.aeroflot.ru/eng) Air Canada(+1 888 247 2262/http:// www.aircanada.com) Air Dolomiti(+39 045 2886140/http:// www.airdolomiti.it) Air France(+1 800 871 1366/http:// www.airfrance.com) Alitalia(+1 800 223 5730/http:// www.alitalia.com) Alpi Eagles(+39 049 979 35 11/http:// www.alpieagles.com) BMI(+1 800 788 0555/ http:// www.flybmi.com) British Airways(+1 800 247 9297/http:// www.ba.com) Cathay Pacific(+1 800 231 0856/http:// www.cathaypacific.com) Delta(+1 800 221 1212/http:// www.delta.com) Easy Jet(+871 244 2366/http:// www.easyjet.com) Finnair(+1 800 950 5000/http:// www.finnair.com) Iberia(+1 800 772 4642/http:// www.iberia.com) Jet 2(+44 207 150 0374/http:// www.jet2.com) KLM(+1 800 374 7747/http://www.lkm.nl) Lufthansa(+1 800 645 3880/http:// www.lufthansa.com) Malev(+1 800 223 6884/http:// www.malev.com) My Air(+44 2073651597/http:// www.myair.com) Northwest(+1 800 225 2525/http:// www.nwa.com) Norwegian Air Shuttle(+47 21 49 00 15/ http://www.norwegian.no) Polish Airlines(+1 212 789 0970/http:// www.lot.com) SAS(+1 800 221 2350/http:// www.flysas.com) Europcar(+39 041 541 5654/http:// www.europcar.com) Sterling Airlines(+44 0870 787 8038/http:// www.sterling.dk) By Train Swiss Airways(+1 877 359 7947/http:// www.swiss.com) TAP Portugal( +351 707 205 700/http:// www.flytap.com) Thomson Fly(+43 0192 89 598/http:// www.thomsonfly.com) United(+1 800 538 2929/ http:// www.united.com) US Airways(+1 800-622-1015/http:// www.usairways.com) Wind Jet(+39 899 65 65 05/http:// www.volawindjet.it) ATVO(+39 041 541 5180) Connects passengers between Marco Polo Airport and Piazzale Roma in Venice. Line 35ATVO Air Terminal(blue buses) depart every 20-30 minutes and rides take about 20 minutes. Fares: EUR3 one-way, EUR5.50 roundtrip. Hours: 05:00-24:20. ACTV(+39 041 541 5180) Line 5 departs every 30 minutes and lasts 20 minutes. Because its fares are cheaper these buses tend to be crammed with commuters, making it very cumbersome to carry and stow luggage. Fares: EUR 1. Hours: 04:05-11:10. Alilaguna(+39 041 240 1701) The Blu line goes from Marco Polo Airport to San Marco. Rides last 60-75 minutes. Fares: EUR 12. Hours: 4:00-24:10. Yellow taxis(+39 041 541 6363) are easy to locate outside the terminal. Rides last 15-20 minutes and generally cost EUR 40. Water taxis, or motoscafi(+39 041 522 2303), can be found at the main dock just outside the airport's arrival hall to the left. Rides last 40 minutes and are expensive, starting at EUR 80 for two riders. Expect to pay supplements for baggage and groups exceeding four riders. Credit cards are not accepted. Rental Car Companies Avis(+1 800 831 2847/http://www.avis.com) Hertz(+1 800 654 3131/http:// www.hertz.com) Italy's national train company, Trenitalia(http://www.trenitalia.com), serves Venice's Santa Lucia Station(+39 041 524 5346) daily. All trains to and from Santa Lucia stop at Mestre on the mainland. By Bus Italy lacks a national bus company, consequently independent bus lines only service their respective regions. If you travel cross-continent ride a Euroline(http:// www.euroline.com) bus to Milan. From there, board an ATVO bus(+39 041 520 5530/http://www.atvo.it) to Venice's bus station at Piazzale Roma. By Car Autostrada 4(A4) originates in Trieste to the east and continues past Venice to Milan in the west. The Ponte della Liberta connects the mainland with Venice. Getting Around By Gondola Gondolas, the symbol of Venice, are easy to locate but eye-popping expensive(a 50 minute ride starts at EUR 70). Make sure you agree to a price before boarding and don't be shy about haggling over the fare: most gondoliers initially ask for twice the going rate. Try to avoid low tide when rancid odors peak and, if possible, ride late afternoon or early evening when the Grand Canal's boat traffic significantly subsides. San Marco(+39 041 520 0685) and Rialto(+39 041 522 4904) are two of the more prominent gondola stands. By Traghetti If regular gondola fares exceed your budget consider boarding a traghetto. These twoman gondolas ferry people across the Grand Canal for only EUR 0.50. Rides last but a few minutes. By Waterbus ACTV's waterbuses, or vaporetti, offer several lines that cover the entire length of the Grand Canal. A 60 minute ticket costs EUR 6. Or opt for the popular 24-hour tourist ticket for EUR 15. Hours: 6:00-21:00, some run 24 hours. Spiffy looking powerboats known as motoscafi(+39 041 522 2303) offer quick maneuverability but 47 Venice Snapshot continued charge a stiff price. For just a short ride across the Grand Canal they've been to known to charge as much as EUR 120. By Foot Walking is the best and most popular means for exploring Venice. There are no cars to dodge and Venice's 409 bridges make it possible to walk from end-to-end in 35 minutes. By Bicycle Major Industry: Tourism Bicycles are not permitted in Venice. © Electricity: 220 volts, 50 Hz; standard twopin plugs Time Zone: GMT+ 1 Fun Facts Country Dialing Code: 39 Venice Area Code: 041 Country: Italy Did You Know? By Car Venice by the Numbers: Cars can cross the Ponte della Liberta(the small stretch of road that connects Venice with the mainland) but must then endure the impossible task of finding parking in one of Venice's two main garages. It is best to either park on the mainland in Mestre and cross on a bus or boat, or phone months in advance to reserve a parking spot. Call either Garage San Marco(+39 041 523 5101) or Isola Del Tronchetto(+39 041 520 7555). Population: 62,000; 1,600,000 PadovaVenice metro area Venice is built on 117 islands, features 150 canals and over 400 bridges. Orientation: Land Area: 177 square miles Average Annual Rainfall: 34 inches Average January Temperature: 38 degrees F/ 3 degrees C Average July Temperature: 75 degrees F/ 23 degrees C Venice is situated in Italy's northeast corner known as the Veneto region, just off the coast in the Adriatic Sea. Trieste rests 97 miles to the east, Milan 165 to the west, and Rome 327 miles to the southwest. © Quick Facts: Weather Statistics Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Average High 6 8 12 16 21 25 27 28 23 18 11 7 Average Mean 3 4 8 12 17 20 23 23 19 14 8 4 Average Low 0 0 4 8 13 16 18 18 15 10 5 1 Average High 44 47 55 62 71 77 82 83 75 65 53 46 Average Mean 38 40 47 54 63 69 74 74 67 58 47 40 Average Low 32 33 40 47 56 62 66 65 59 51 41 35 Rainy Days 6 6 7 9 8 8 7 7 5 7 9 8 Rain Fall (cm) 2.1 2.4 2.4 5.4 4.7 5.5 5.1 3.8 4.6 5.9 4.6 3.0 Rain Fall (in) 0.8 0.9 0.9 2.1 1.9 2.2 2.0 1.5 1.8 2.3 1.8 1.2 Temperature C Temperature F © NileGuide 48