Story - CaryMagazine.com

The Federal
914 West Main St., Durham
(919) 680-8611
Locals call it the Fed, a fusion of no-frills bar with
top-flight cuisine. Where else will you find hanging cage lights
illuminating your saffron risotto entrée? Make no mistake: The cement
floor, black vinyl seats, stainless steel tables and vintage memorabilia adorning
the walls will remind you that you didn’t come to this diamond-in-the-rough establishment for the ambiance. You came for the food.
Somehow, magically, it works.
Laid-back chef Scott McKenney, who has worked in various restaurant and resort kitchens since he was a teenager, enjoys uninhibited freedom to create ever-changing specials. “We
don’t really have a set format, so we can cook whatever we want,” the Durham native said.
“Our menu spans the globe, and we change it every season.”
Even at lunchtime, inventive concoctions abound. To wit: chicken liver pate with cherry-shallot marmalade; Belgian endive salad with roasted beets and cornmeal-encrusted goat
cheese; and beer-braised pork carnitas with fresh salsa, cilantro and guacamole.
Whatever you do, don’t overlook dessert. On the day the Cary Magazine crew rolled
in, McKenney whipped up fresh strawberry shortcake, crème brûlée with blackberry
compote and a life-changing good flourless chocolate cake topped with peanut-infused caramel sauce and made-in-house vanilla ice cream. Needless to say, it was
well worth the drive.
The Federal is open daily for lunch and dinner, and outdoor seating is available. A website is not.
Flourless Chocolate Cake
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