Winter 2014 - Les Dames d`Escoffier International
Transcription
Winter 2014 - Les Dames d`Escoffier International
WINTER 2014 CULINARY CROSSROADS Austin Conference Issue [ Deep in the Heart of Texas ] IN THIS ISSUE FEAT UR ES WINTER•2 O 1 4 Preserving for Posterity 4 Welcome to Texas 5 Dames Across Texas 6-7 Pre-Conference Tours 8 Keynote Address 9-11Sessions 12-13 Partner Luncheon 14Sessions 16-17 Chapter Photos 18 Fiesta 20-22Sessions 23 Grande Dame Dinner D EPART M EN TS 24-26Chapter News 28-29Member Milestones 31 Submission Guidelines Cover: Top of Star: Margaret Vera, Kitty Crider, Johanna Brown. Top row: Meredith Beeman, Tracy Claros, Susan Auler, Denice Woods, Stephanie McClenny, , Carol Huntsberger, Marla Camp. Middle row: Beth Pav, Gina Burchenal, Cathy Strange. Bottom row: Michele Haram, Sharon Watkins, Karen Farnsworth, Mary Margaret Pack, Carla Williams, Foo Swasdee. 2014 LDEI BOARD OF DIRECTORS President Beth Allen Founder/President Beth Allen Associates, Inc. 347 W 22nd Street, Suite #9 New York, NY 10011 (212) 206-1138 [email protected] First Vice President Lori Willis Director of Communications Schnuck Markets, Inc. 11420 Lackland Rd. St. Louis, MO 63146 (314) 994-4602 [email protected] 2 Second Vice President Braiden Rex-Johnson Founder/Owner Northwest Wining and Dining, LLC 98 Union Street, Suite 1009 Seattle, WA 98101 (206) 233-9491 braiden@northwestwining anddining.com Third Vice President Cathy Cochran-Lewis Global Marketing, Programs Coordinator Whole Foods Market 11504 Sundown Trail Austin, TX 78739 (512) 627-5599 Cathy.Cochran-Lewis@wholefoods. com My 95-year old Texas mother Carolyn Cheney was flattered when a Dame at the Austin Conference asked her, “What chapter are you from?” I brought Mom as my guest, but if she could have joined the Dallas Chapter when it was formed in 1984, she would have been 66 at the time. The point is, whatever your age when you become a Dame, you will always be a Dame (as long as your dues are paid!). Sadly, some of our charter members have already passed away, and the rest of us aren’t getting any younger. If we don’t preserve our knowledge of the organization for posterity, we’ll lose a rich history of women’s culinary progress. That brings us to the Quarterly. One aim of your two editors, Susan Slack and me, is to capture LDEI history as it happens. The Quarterly itself is an archive of the organization. Helping us capture that history in this conference issue are Dames from more than 20 different chapters who reported on all the events and sessions. As you page through this issue, note the bylines to see who they are. Add to them many more Dames who sent in photos, Chapter News, Member Milestones, and other current information. Next year at the Boston Conference, the New York Chapter will be 38 years old. Our newest chapter, Birmingham, will be one year old. Older chapters have much experience and history to share with new chapters and those yet to be chartered. Let this be a call to all: Preserve your history for posterity so the lessons of Dames who have gone before can benefit those to come. Thanks to all who contributed to this and every issue. Keep the history coming throughout the year! Oh, and back to Mom. She enjoyed her return to Texas and the LDEI Conference. She learned a lot and enjoyed meeting all of you. One of her questions went unanswered, however. “How in the world do y’all eat so much food?” CiCi Williamson, Editor Winter Quarterly The mission of the LDEI board is to foster the growth and success of the organization by supporting the development of new and existing chapters. It provides guidance, education, connectivity and effective communication among LDEI members. Secretary Maria Gomez Manager, Global Accounts HelmsBriscoe 11241 Avenida del Gatao San Diego, CA 92126 (858) 633-7515 [email protected] Treasurer Ann Stratte Owner My Personal Chef 100 Severn Avenue, #506 Annapolis, MD 21403-2622 (410) 903-2682 [email protected] Chapter Board Liaisons Hayley Matson-Mathes Culinary Consultant 2333 Kapiolani Blvd #3516 Honolulu, HI 96826 (808) 941-9088 [email protected] Deborah Orrill Culinary Consultant 64 Vanguard Way Dallas, TX 75243 (214) 343-0124 [email protected] Stacy Zeigler, CMP, CPCE Director of Sales Bold American Events 877 W. Marietta Street NW Studio K-102 Atlanta, GA 30318-5285 (678) 302-3232 [email protected] Immediate Past President Mary Ellen Griffin Owner www.myMEGusta.com 320 Strawberry Hill Ave., #58 Stamford, CT 06902 (203) 975 7610 [email protected] Executive Director Greg Jewell President AEC Management Resources P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 (502) 456-1851 x1 [email protected] Les Dames d’Escoffier International Exploring the Delicious Culinary Crossroads across Texas What a huge, Texas-size welcome we received while arriving in Austin for our 27th Annual Conference during the last week in October. Our Co-Chairs Gina Burchenal and Denice Woods, Austin Chapter President Cathy Strange, and their committees of hard-working Dames had promised the biggest, most exciting and successful conference ever, with lots of Southern hospitality—and that’s exactly what they delivered! You’ll find summaries and snapshots of happenings from more than 20 Dames in this issue. The memories are nonstop! For many, the first day kicked off early, with tours around and nearby Austin: an in-service experience on national Food Day; visits to unique urban, locally owned farms; tastes of some popular Austin food-truck treasures; and legendary Salt Lick BBQ and Texas wines in the Hill Country. Learning was nonstop, too. At our Chapter Leadership Forum, we learned how to run our chapters like businesses and “speeddated” topics of importance to chapter leaders. At the Don’t Drown in Digital workshop, we heard about “taking control and creating a customized digital routine that works for you.” We were reminded how to put the customer back into customer service… learned from the pros how to craft your own cookbook… experienced, step-by-step, turning a tamale into a “hero” at a professional foodphotography shoot… and tasted the unlikely pairings of beer and cheese. Networking with Dames was an added benefit for all, especially during the fabulous events! We wined and dined at the Dames Across Texas extravaganza… we took a trip South of the Border for a fabuloso Fiesta, serenaded by a mariachi band (all ladies!)… and then proudly toasted our 2013 Grande Dame, Dolores Cakebread, winemaking-and-culinary visionary extraordinaire, at the celebratory dinner our last evening in Austin. A perfect ending to our 27th Annual Conference! Our thanks go to our 19 partners who generously support our organization all year, especially at conference. Remember them when you’re writing an article or blog, or organizing a local seminar or fundraiser. Thanks also to our Partnership Development Director, Brent Frei, who secures and works with our partners throughout the year. And, of course, our Executive Director, Greg Jewell, and his colleagues at AEC Management who expertly orchestrate our conferences, and keep the infrastructure of our organization working professionally and smoothly, day by day. Everyone on your LDEI Board of Directors is here, as close as your phone or your computer, to keep all of our 29 chapters connected and strong. We are always actively supporting and expanding many programs, with the help of many of you: our Green Tables and Global Culinary Initiatives; our website and webinars; our M.F.K. Fisher, Legacy, and Grande Dame Awards; and our member discounts through our Affinity and Dame-to-Dame programs. And this year, let’s all continue to focus on keeping our financial house in order by helping the Brock Circle grow. I am honored to be your president and look forward to a fabulous year! Beth Allen President, Les Dames d’Escoffier International Front: Ann Stratte, Stacy Zeigler, Beth Allen, Lori Willis, Mary Ellen Griffin. Back: Deborah Orrill, Maria Gomez-Lorenz, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Braiden Rex-Johnson. Not pictured: Cathy Cochran-Lewis. W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 3 , Welcome to Texas, Y all! [ ¡Bienvenidos a Tejas! ] From the time we passed through the Hyatt Regency Austin’s doors--decorated with a double Dames logo--to the last toast at the Grande Dame Award Dinner, it was a conference packed with Texas flavor. Here in these 32 pages, we have given it our all, y’all, to boot-horn all the tours, meetings, sessions, and fiestas into the magazine you’re holding. And, by the way, in Texas we never say goodbye. We say, “Y'all come back again, soon, ya’hear?” Clockwise from top left: Gwen Trost with California Fig Advisory Board representative Maria Kniestedt with gift bags of dried figs. LDEI Past Presidents Pat Mozersky, Abigail Kirsch, CiCi Williamson, Beverly Soules, Renie Steves, Sandy Hu, Teresa Farney, Katherine Newsll Smith, and Suzanne Brown with LDEI Founder Carol Brock. LDEI Past President Mary Ellen Griffin, Valerie Broussard, Trace Executive Chef Lawrence Kosureck, and Conference Co-chairs Gina Burchenal and Denice Woods. Holly Matson-Mathes with Kerrygold contest winner Chef Janelle Reynolds. Carlos Arana, CEO of Hiro Sake, and Carla Williams (Austin), Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts. 4 OPENING RECEPTION By Anne Nisbet (Seattle) Anticipation was high as the elevator rose to the Hyatt Regency’s 17th floor. It was the opening-night reception for the LDEI annual conference and the excitement was contagious. In the lobby, a gorgeous cascade of fresh golden and black figs was the first thing to catch my eye. One of the evening’s generous hosts, the California Fig Advisory Board, offered the tender, plump fruits for sampling and gave each Dame a handsomely packaged gift of dried figs and a tote bag to take home. Austin’s sparkling—and rapidly growing—skyline formed a dramatic backdrop for the Foothills Room, where Dames from all 28 chapters gathered to kick off the festivities. A lively group it was, comparing notes on appetizers offered by three chefs and sipping cocktails from Hiro Sake and wine from Wente Vineyards. Kerrygold, one of the evening's other sponsors, challenged the chefs to use one of the company’s Irish dairy products in a newly created recipe that was then judged by the Dames in attendance. This was a great ice-breaker, with Dames comparing notes and discussing their favorites. I awarded my vote to the Smörbröd created by Libbey Goldberg of Austin’s Salt of the Earth Foods. She blended Kerrygold’s delicate, clean-tasting Pure Irish Butter with lightly smoked black cod, spreading it on rustic rye for a clever and fresh-tasting combination. Another Austin chef, Heather Nanez, from Bohanan’s Restaurant & Bar in San Antonio, created a visually stunning plate with beef tartare and tangy Cashel Blue Farmhouse Cheese. Janelle Reynolds, executive chef of @t large, a private-chef services company, who also works with Mighty Bird, a rotisseriechicken restaurant, won first prize for her Kerrygold’s Dubliner Beer Cheese Crostini with Sweety Pepper Relish. For her win, Chef Reynolds will receive a six-month supply of Kerrygold butter plus 20 pounds of Kerrygold cheese per month for six months. All three chefs received a gift basket of Kerrygold products valued at $250. This vibrant gathering featuring fresh figs, Irish dairy products, Hiro Sake, Roland Foods, and Wente Vineyard wines, along with a cavalcade of high-spirited Dames, set a convivial tone from which to launch the evening and the entire Austin Culinary Crossroads Conference. Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dames Across Texas By Kathy Shearer (San Antonio) From the bold Texas flavors of tamales, tacos, and ceviches, to Texas wines and cheeses, to delicious desserts, there was something to please every palate at Dames Across Texas held on Thursday night. The event was hosted by the Austin Chapter as a scholarship fundraiser and organized by Gina Burchenal and Denice Woods. It was held under the beautiful Texas stars in the courtyard of the AT&T Hotel and Conference Center. Participants tasted items from 32 venues, mostly owned or operated by Dames from the Austin, Dallas, and San Antonio Chapters. Five Texas Hill Country wineries were represented -- Becker Vineyards (Bunny Becker), Fall Creek Vineyards (Susan Auler), Texas Hill Vineyards (Kathy Gilstrap), Alamosa Vineyards (Karen Johnson), and Stone House Vineyard (Angela Moench). Away.com, part of Orbitz Worldwide, named the Texas Hill Country one of 10 “hidden-gem” wine regions in the United States. Sipping wine, one could stroll from table to table in the cool evening air, enjoying Spanish chorizo, pulled pork, chicken, cheeses and salumi, chips and salsa, chimichurri sauce, a tasty poblano sauce, spring rolls, and other delectable items. There was even a somewhat “historic“ drink served—a Peach Shrub—with a bit of Bourbon added to kick it up. One highlight everyone was talking about was the Chicken Poblano Tamales beautifully plated and served by Lisa Wong’s Rosario’s Café y Cantina. For dessert, there were Texas-themed, artfully hand-decorated Lily’s Cookies from Christine McCrae Kelly, and Tracy Claros’ Sticky Toffee Pudding with Custard Sauce. Yum! The French-pressed and/or espresso from Susan Jaime’s Ferra Coffee and specialty tea from Amy March’s The Steeping Room were the perfect compliments to the desserts. The San Antonio Chapter added some pizzazz to their tables with fiesta-themed items by using serapes, piñatas, papeles picados (tissue paper with elaborate cut-out designs), and candles. The Austin Chapter placed luminarias around the courtyard to help set the mood. It was a fabulous evening for the attendees, and a successful fundraiser for the Austin Chapter! Photos from top: Maple Pork Belly Tamales by Rosemary Kowalski's The RK Group. Photo by Susan Slack. Breville Coffee. Lisa Wong. Sharon Van Meter and her culinary team. Susan Jaime’s Ferra Coffee. Lily’s Cookies from Christine McCrae Kelly. Tanya Holland, Nicole Quandt. Nichole Bendele of Becker Vineyards. Kevin O’Neal, Lori Willis, Greg Jewell. Photos by Susan Slack and Lori Willis. W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 5 Pre-Conference Tours TOUR 1: Green Tables Teams with Food Day for “Day of Service” By Kathy Gold (Philadelphia) Dames from all over the country arrived by van, car, and even in taxis straight from the airport to prepare for the October 24th Day of Service at the Sustainable Food Center (SFC), in Austin. SFC’s mission is to cultivate community by strengthening the local food system and to provide a space where children and adults can grow, share, and prepare healthy, local foods. The sessions started with the entire volunteer force—18 volunteers from SFC—gathered for a hands-on knife-skills class. After a taste of the “everything-intothe-pot” soup, the participants broke into groups for a morning of delicious demonstrations, led by Dames. Dames demonstration leaders taught the volunteers how to break down a chicken, pickle vegetables, roast vegetables and fruit, make chicken salad, cook with grains, plant herbs, and grow mushrooms from spores in coffee grounds. As a bonus, we also learned that, among other things, coffee grounds can help banish cellulite! Cecilia Nasti (Austin) did a superb job of coordinating the day’s activities. Katherine Newell Smith, Susan Jaime, Molly Thompson, Martha Pruitt, Kathy Gold, Michele Haines, Sharon Van Meter, Adrienne Abramson, Stephanie McClenny, Tina Wasserman, and Drew Faulkner were all thrilled to take part in the day of service. After each group of volunteers had the opportunity to participate in all the demonstrations, the Dames re-boarded the van, and went to the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts, an LDEI Partner. Joining them for lunch were Nancy Marr, the school’s Special Events Manager; Mary Chamberlin, a Trustee; LDEI Past Presidents Beverly Barbour Soules and CiCi Williamson; and other guests. Chef Paul Petersen and the Escoffier School’s “Farmto-Table” students prepared a sumptuous four-course luncheon of locally sourced ingredients under the expansive canopy in the Escoffier Garden. Courses included Arugula Salad with Smoked Grapes, Candied Pecans, and Texas Goat Cheese, and Roasted Game Hen with Mushroom-Apple Bread Pudding. After lunch, Dames strolled through the vegetable garden and basked in the sunshine under the big Texas sky. Cornish hens. Beverly Soules, Nancy Marr, and Mary Chamberlin. Luncheon photo under the canopy. Students and chef who cooked the lunch. Photos by CiCi Williamson. 6 Three Little Pigs chef with Pamela Morgan and Pat Mozersky. Cow Tipping Truck. Cow Tipping Desserts. Sugar Addict Foods. Anne Nisbet with a new friend. TOUR 2: Food Truck Treasures By Kathleen Rule (St. Louis) Austin Dames Kristi Willis and Denice Woods hosted this wonderful culinary adventure cum city tour, sharing the history of local food trucks of all sorts, including mobile, stationary, and those used by local restaurant chefs to test recipes. In North Austin at the Sugar Addict Bakery, we ate melt-in-your-mouth beignets. At East Austin’s Three Little Pigs, Chef Raymond Tatum served crusty, muffin-sized Cracklin’ Meat Loaves wrapped in crispy bacon on cheese grits with savory black-eyed peas, roasted beets, and collard greens. West of the University of Texas campus, we sampled highly rated Asian-Fusion cuisine at East Side King at Hole in the Wall. Thai Chicken Kara-age and Fried Brussels Sprout Salad were both blended with spicy sauces, herbs, and jalapeños. It was a short walk to Cow Tipping Creamery, a family-run business offering artisan soft-serve custards, homemade sauces, and toppings. A specialty sundae was Taj Y’all— soft-serve custard, saffron syrup, toasted black-sesame seeds, and coconut dust. The popular custard shop is named for “cow tipping,” a purported prank of sneaking up on an unsuspecting upright cow and pushing it over. The practice is generally considered an urban legend because cows do not sleep standing up, and studies show it would probably take about five people to push over a cow. Les Dames d’Escoffier International TOUR 3: Texas Wine with Texas Barbecue By Renie Steves (Dallas) Twenty Dames headed 15 miles west of Austin to the Hill Country to experience pairing Texas wine with authentic Texas barbecue. Texans “grill” year-round—from appetizers to fruit—but barbecue is slow cooking over wood, letting the hot smoke do the cooking. The meat is the star, not the sauce. Barbecue is a tradition—families celebrate and tailgate around barbecue smokers. Tourists swarm to famous barbecue joints where the meat is piled high along with the requisite sides of coleslaw, potato salad, a pickle, and sauce on the side. The Texas Hill Country has the highest concentration of the state’s 275 wineries, making it a top wine destination in the U.S. The region is also home to one of the most famous barbecue joints in the nation: Salt Lick Restaurant, which opened in 1967. While beer is often the beverage of choice with barbecue, wines also pair well with the smoked meats. To that end, current Salt Lick owner, Scott Roberts, planted 35 acres of wine grapes in 2006. Tempranillo was introduced in 2008. A year later, Salt Lick Cellars and a tasting room opened where visitors can taste Salt Lick and other Texas wines. During the tour, Fall Creek Vineyards owner, Susan Auler, graciously poured Fall Creek’s Chenin Blanc, which was smooth with a hint of sweetness, and Tempranillo, a perfect red for barbecue with its strawberry, spice, and tobacco flavors. At lunch, Dames sampled nachos topped with chunks of well-done brisket ends and grilled-shrimp appetizers with the Chenin Blanc and Salt Lick’s BBQ White. The main course was paired with Salt Lick’s GSM (a Rhone-style blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre), its Sangiovese, and Fall Creek’s Tempranillo. A spot poll of the Dames showed wines with some sweetness were preferable to balance the spiciness of the barbecue sauce. Then we tasted six wines at the nearby Duchman Family Winery housed in an impressive Tuscaninspired building. The white wines (2011 Trebbiano, Vermentino, and Viognier) had good aromas but were served too cold, masking the flavors of the wines. The reds (2011 Sangiovese and Tempranillo) were deep in body and slightly tannic. Canto Felice, their semi-sweet wine, which means “happy song” in Italian, was a perfect ending. W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 Photos by Maika Hill Higgins. TOUR 4: Urban “Farm-to-Table” Excursion By Lesley Hill (Hawaii) It was a beautiful, sunny day in Austin when we toured three urban farms. All within the Austin city limits, they appeared almost like large, bountiful, home gardens—if you didn’t know they were operating as farms. Rain Lily, our first stop, comprises four acres of mixed heirloom vegetables and fruit trees including figs, olives, and persimmons. They supply Farmhouse Delivery, a weekly delivery business that provides milk, eggs, and produce to Austin homes. They also carry pastureraised meats, and deliver to Houston as well. Our tour leader, Stephanie Scherzer, told us that the farm hosts Shakespearean theater performances for a month every fall in the shady grove at the entrance. Buying an old farm that had deteriorated into crack houses, Dorsey Barger has restored the two-acre Hausbau Farm into a vibrant, totally sustainable, integrated property. She and her partner raise just about everything, including donkeys, ducks, and rabbits that they feed recycled fruit-juice pulp. The vegetables reflect the gentle care they receive by growing vigorously. They have created a beautiful outdoor cooking and dining area than can be used for demonstrations and classes. There is an interesting aquaponics system that takes the fish manure from farmed tilapia and, using bacteria-coated clay pellets, converts it into nutrients for growing lettuce and other crops hydroponically. They humanely harvest their own animals and compost the remains using a soldier-fly composter. However, a neighbor complained of the smell, so they are now in a bit of a battle with the city government and may have to send the animals off the farm for butchering. Barger urged us to voice our support by going to the urbanfarms.org website. About five years ago, Springdale Farm was transformed from a landscape nursery by Paula and Glenn Foore. Today, the farm produces a gorgeous array of produce and supplies Eden East, the small food-truck-like restaurant in front owned by Sonya Cote. Eden East served up a delicious lunch including Fresh Green Salad, Roasted Chicken, and Meyer-Lemon Bars with slices of persimmons and candied pears. The farm is a living classroom for nearby schools, and a group of children was just finishing their tour as we arrived. The children looked as if they had enjoyed the experience tremendously, as did all of the Dame participants. 7 KEYNOTE ADDRESS: Texas Roots to National Stage By Shara Bohach, (Cleveland) Rosalyn (Roz) Mallet offered inspiring words about actively managing your career and moving it forward through instinct, innovation, mentoring, and values-based leadership. Overcoming odds as a woman and a person of color, Roz stated that you never know what you cannot do until you try. She spoke with passion about opportunities in the restaurant industry, asserting that if you work hard, develop and believe in your instincts, and proceed with confidence, you can do anything. In her 10 tips for outstanding leadership, she included “seek mentors and seek to mentor.” The giving back is equally, if not more important. With the help of mentors at every step of her career path, Roz went from working summers in college as a restaurant cashier to high-level positions with restaurant brands we all know, to becoming the first African-American woman to lead the National Restaurant Association (only the third woman to chair the board during that organization’s 96-year-long history). Always a well-prepared risk taker, Roz left a highly successful corporate career to start an entrepreneurial business. And, at the start of a recession, no less! She succeeded in building PhaseNext Hospitality, a multi-brand, franchise-operating company, with outlets in nontraditional foodservice locations, such as airports and military bases. She consistently seeks out unique opportunities, and creates businesses from them. Roz encouraged Dames to “learn the bad lessons very, very well, because those are the most important, and allow someone to ask you what could you have done better.” These are the insights that will guide you toward your next success. Carol Brock, Roz Mallett, Beth Allen. Photo by CiCi. 8 Takeaways from the 2013 Leadership Forum By Braiden Rex-Johnson (Seattle), LDEI Second Vice President The 60 Dames who participated in this year’s Thursdayafternoon Chapter Leadership Forum (CLF) agreed that it was one of the most useful sessions at the 2013 Conference. The CLF is open to chapter presidents, presidents-elect, and any chapter members aspiring to leadership roles. The gathering gives presidents and officers a chance to share their chapter issues and find support and answers. This year, attorney Jacqueline (Jackie) Hanson kicked off the session with a one-hour PowerPoint presentation entitled, “Running Your Chapter Like a Business, Part Two.” Key points in her speech, which focused on successfully managing, optimizing, and sustaining nonprofit status, included the following: • Mission is the touchstone. • Educate your Board of Directors, officers, and staff. • The two fiduciary obligations for Directors are a duty of care and a duty of loyalty. • Directors are charged with safeguarding the organization’s assets. • Know and abide by the laws applicable to charitable organizations. In underscoring the importance and vital work of volunteer, nonprofit organizations such as LDEI, Hanson said, “Noah’s ark was built by volunteers; the Titanic was built by professionals.” Takeaways from the CLF’s first-ever “speed-dating” session, moderated by LDEI Board members, included: • Establish a mentorship program for your Chapter’s scholars to observe and measure the progression in their careers. • The St. Louis Chapter held a successful fundraiser with the theme, “Best Dame Tacos in Missouri.” Tailor this idea to the food you are selling and your state or region. • Immediately after an event, follow up with your current partners and sponsors. Inform them that, “We will be looking to you for support again next year.” • Appoint a “Member Liaison” to deal with difficult members and/or members who aren’t engaged. • Organize a “Dîner en Blanc” (Dinner in White), a worldwide trend in fundraising that originated in Paris. • Hold raffles at your monthly meetings, with funds raised used to send Dames to Conference based on a point system (à la Atlanta). • Hold a Dessert Dash (full descriptions in the Member Center, “Document Groups/Chapter Fundraising Ideas” section of ldei.org). • Encourage new members to sign up for a Committee, which builds friendships, gets them involved, and helps identify potential leaders. Les Dames d’Escoffier International Session 1: Feeding Your Community By Cindy Jurgensen (Minneapolis) Six wonderful panelists espoused their very different, yet related, experiences in food and agriculture. Author/Activist/Farmer Wendell Berry’s quote “Eating is an Agriculture Act,” the quote that inspired Michael Pollan, was central to the session. Food and agriculture affect everything and the idea that individual eaters have a responsibility to grow good, healthy, nutritional food to feed current and future generations was also a key theme. Each panelist emphasized that growing healthy food takes time, bridge-building, is costly, and is all about relationship building. State Representative Eddie Rodriquez said that growing healthy food starts with good policy. He feels his job is to identify the hurdles farmers have, then help them. He discovered government is often in the way, particularly for urban farmers. He started a “farm-to-table” caucus and found food to be a non-partisan issue. Mayor Marc Holm strove to figure out what assets his town, Elgin, had. The town’s rich agriculture tradition, with Austin right next door, formed a built-in market! People said agriculture couldn’t be a driver of economic development, but he persevered. When a college moved to town he got them to include sustainable agriculture as one of the major courses of study. Former Chef Elizabeth Winslow, co-founder of Farmhouse Delivery, wants to make good food accessible to all. Now, as communications manager for the Sustainable Food Center, she said that the Sustainable Food Center holds four weekly farmers’ markets in Austin, helps people connect to affordable food, hosts Community Gardens, and teaches gardeners how to use what they grow. “Food can bring people together across the political spectrum.” Carla Williams is the Farm-to-Table Curriculum Coordinator for Escoffier Schools in Austin and Boulder, where three-week farm externships are built into the curriculum. Students get a different perspective (they’re loath to waste) on where their ingredients come from, how hard farmers work, and how much better local tastes. Inspired by Grande Dame Alice Waters’ book, Chez Panisse, Chef Sonya Cote’s mission is to educate people on how to eat local and how to engage with their food. She wants to open as many restaurants as possible on farms and has a good start—her Eden East restaurant is located on the grounds of urban Springdale Farm. Farmer Paula Foore’s urban five-acre Springdale Farm is three miles from the Texas state capital, a city block surrounded by homes, and a school. Since it’s a challenge to be financially successful, “it’s important to diversify,” she said. Hence, Sonya’s restaurant on the front end. Paula and Sonya work jointly with culinary students, interns, and school groups; sell at twice-weekly farm stands and to restaurants; and host weddings in the farm’s pecan orchard. “Use every chance to educate the good, bad, and ugly of farming.” This session brings full circle my first experience with LDEI. Long before I was a member, I flew to Phoenix with Mary Evans (Minnesota) to visit Hallie Harron, chef/owner of the restaurant Quiessence at the Farm at South Mountain. We helped prep for her local news program, and we cooked a sumptuous, locally foraged meal for an LDEI Board dinner meeting. Hallie was feeding the community long before it was the trend. “Quiessence was surely one of the first to ‘go local.’ It was easy! We grew the carrots—I served ‘em!” Session 2: Beer & Cheese: Find Your Inner Pairings By Gwen Ashley Walters (Phoenix) After the beer-and-cheese session, I overheard a Dame exclaim, “Forget wine, I’m all about beer-and-cheese parties now!” It’s safe to say the rest of the near-packed room for this eat-and-drink session felt similarly, based on the final applause and the line of Dames waiting to purchase a copy of Janet Fletcher’s (San Francisco) new book, Cheese & Beer (Andrews McMeel Publishing, 2013). Cathy Strange (Austin), Global Cheese Buyer at Whole Foods Market and New World President of Guilde des Fromagers, introduced the all-star panel, including two cheesemakers, two cheese experts, and a female brewer. Cathy led us through a series of four cheeses paired with four beers, and then encouraged us to explore further pairings among the options in front of us. Peggy Smith, founder of Cowgirl Creamery, provided an organic triple-cream Mount Tam cheese, and Austin Independence Brewing brewer/owner Amy Cartwright selected her Stash IPA to pair with it, to highlight a contrasting flavor pairing (buttery, creamy cheese with citrusy, bitter beer). W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 Paula Lambert’s (Dallas) Mozzarella Company Queso Blanco with Chiles and Epazote was paired with Jester King Brewery’s Le Petit Prince Farmhouse Table Beer, an example of a complementary flavor pairing (mild cheese with mellow, low-alcohol, slightly effervescent beer.) Cheesemaker Judy Schad (Chicago), co-owner of Capriole Farms, brought a tangy, Bourbon chestnut-leaf chèvre, which was paired with Jester King’s cedar-aged El Cedro for another complementary pairing. Finally, multiaward-winning Rogue River Blue from Oregon, whose cheese makers David Gremmels and Cary Bryant were in attendance and christened “Dames for a Day,” was paired with Oatmeal Stout, a deeply roasted malt beer with chocolate and coffee notes from Independence Brewing Co. This provided another contrasting pairing. One attendee posed the sticky question, “Is cheese better with beer or wine?” Dame Fletcher answered, “I’ve never met a cheese I couldn’t pair with beer, but I can’t say the same with wine.” Amy Cartwright, Peggy Smith, Judy Schad, Janet Fletcher, Cathy Strange. Photo by CiCi. Janet Fletcher. Photo by Susan Slack. 9 Sessions Session 3: Don’t Drown in Digital. Build a Toolkit Instead By Kathy Moore (Kansas City) Are you drowning in technology and social media? Follow these tips! Kristi Willis, of Kristi’s Farm To Table, recommended cloud technology so you always have access to everything you need. Don’t buy every tool and app. To find your best tool, outline your work and identify the most painful spot, then find a tool to ease that task. She recommended Evernote (which allows users to create then synchronize Session 4: Mixology 10 text and photos across all devices), Office 365, Dropbox, and Google Drive (Google Docs). Natanya Anderson, Social Media Director of Whole Foods and President of Austin Food Bloggers Alliance, recommended we stand out, engage, and create community on social media. To determine the best outlet, identify your audience and goals and evaluate your time and comfort level. Facebook is great for establishing your brand and sharing your expertise. For best results, spend 30 minutes daily and post once or twice each day. To optimize Twitter, spend about an hour daily and respond to tweets within one-half By Grande Dame Abigail Kirsch (New York) Our anticipations were high as we entered the fascinating seminar on mixology. It was fun, it was color- day. You can post the same topic on Facebook and Twitter, but personalize it. Instagram is more important than Twitter, so if you must choose, pick Instagram over Twitter. Pinterest allows you to show your expertise, but don’t just pin your own content. Use LinkedIn if your business targets other businesses. The women cautioned against giving total control of social media to interns as you must be the voice of your brand. Also, during times of national disaster, Whole Foods goes dark, and it may be wise to follow this lead in your own business. ful, and it was a learning experience that sent our taste buds into orbit. Our expert corporate mixologist, Chef Caterina Miltenburger, of Glazer’s Wholesale Distributors, introduced us to “shrubs.” No, not green hedges, but artisinal drinking vinegars. We learned that over 1,000 years ago, people used the same recipe we use today, as a fermenting process in their ancient way of preserving fruit. Today, we know that craft bars use shrubs with alcohol in uniquely shaped glasses and carved ice cubes. You can find shrubs today in flavors including strawberry, mixed berry, raspberry, pineapple, and even passion fruit. With our newfound knowledge of shrubs, it was our turn to create contemporary drinks. We were instructed to fill the punch bowls in front of us with an aromatic mixture. To share with you an approximate idea of a recipe, we made a quick shrub purée by mixing 2 ounces of Very Berry Shrub with 6 ounces of powdered sugar and oneCaterina Miltenburger. XX, Deborah Woehler, Stacey quarter ounce lemon or lime Mixologist Adams, Janet Burgess. Photos by Susan Slack. juice in a small glass jar. Cover tightly and shake vigorously until the sugar has completely mixed with the juice. You may have to add more juice to achieve the right consistency. Add fresh fruit, such as sliced pineapple, apple, orange, or berries. Then add seltzer and fruit juice. No, we did not forget the Vodka, which was added by Dames, who religiously believe in generous pours. I must admit that the shrub punch we created was so tantalizing, it accompanied me into the Partner Luncheon for additional enjoyment! Good news is that you can purchase Shrub Drinks Artisanal Drinking Vinegars by accessing www.shrubdrinks.com, created by Cathy Tarasovic and Cynthia Guido (San Antonio). Cheers!! Les Dames d’Escoffier International Session 5: Session 6: Chili, Kolache, Cornbread, and Collards: A Look at Central Texas Foodways Effective PR & Marketing on a Budget By CiCi Williamson “Central Texas Foodways” carried out the conference theme to a T (as in tamale). Culinary historians M.M. Pack, Toni Tipton-Martin, and Dawn Orsak delivered a complex dish of food knowledge. Pack said 200 Texas Indian groups traded foods such as mesquite beans, prickly pears, mustang grapes, dewberries, game, chilies, and pecans. Native to Texas, the pecan (from an Indian word meaning “requiring a stone to crack”) was growing 8,000 years before seedlings were introduced by Indians and traders to East Coast states such as Georgia. A progression of immigrants settled in Texas: 26 major nationalities from Belgians to Wends (Slavs). But Germans made up the largest group of Europeans to immigrate to Texas and, even now, make up 17% of the population. Pack said they brought pickling, sausage, barbecue, and schnitzel, which morphed into “chicken fried steak.” Wine grapes were planted in Texas 100 years before they were planted in California. Chili came in with cowboy cooking, and “chili queens” sold the dish first in San Antonio. Toni Tipton-Martin is Founder/Director of the nonprofit SANDE Youth Project that promotes the connection between cultural heritage, food, and a healthy environment. She spoke about how African Americans passed down recipes orally. They tended small garden plots and cooked “parts massa didn't want. But Blacks left us much more than collards and swine.” Her book, The Jemina Code, to be published in 2014, expounds on this. Tex-Czech and Czech-Mex foods were explained by Dawn Orsak, Lone Star Foodways. “Texas has the largest number of Czech immigrants in the U.S.,” she said. The Czechs contributed noodles, cucumber salad, potato dishes, sauerkraut, strudel, and kolache (pronounced CO-lahsh—silent “e”). An example of Czech-Mex food is sausage with jalapenos. Orsak quipped, “Everything has an end, but sausage has two.” She translated a Czech phrase that means “When there is good cooking, there is happiness.” Orsak indeed facilitated attendees’ happiness by serving several kinds of delicious, authentic kolaches she had made. Lori Willis (St. Louis), Director of Communications, Schnuck Markets, Inc., attended this session and wrote, “After 12 years as a grocer, I am always moved by how important traditional ingredients and foods are to those who have traded their homelands for new territory. The ladies in this seminar emphasized this point many times. It’s not just the recipes that are handed down through generations; it’s the memories of home, families and traditions.” Toni TiptonMartin, Dawn Orsak, and Mary Margaret Pack. Photos by CiCi Williamson W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 By Patty Erd (Chicago) This seminar was a panel moderated by Cathy Cochran-Lewis (Austin), Global Marketing, Whole Foods Market, and consisted of local PR experts Elaine Garza of Giant Noise PR, James Moody of Guerilla Suit Marketing and Kathryn Hutchison of Greenling. Ideas and suggestions flew throughout this session. So many ideas were shared. Here are a few. • Do not assume a PR agency is going to fix everything, or turn everything around for you. • Educate yourself so that you understand the landscape. • You need to roll up your sleeves and block out the time to do the work yourself. • You NEVER want to farm off social media to an intern. • Good social media interaction requires you make a daily commitment. • Media would rather hear from you the person, rather than a press release. • Start your social media campaign months before starting your business. • Make sure you create a voice consistent with your business. Reporters need a two-month lead time. • Do not attempt SEO (Search Engine Optimization) on your front page; this needs to run through the back end of your website. • Make some crossover from the digital world to the physical world, press some flesh. • Consider removing print advertising from your budget, it is expensive and readership has decreased. Facebook analytics are free and do not require an agency. • You do not have to sign up for a whole year as PR firms would like. So many ideas were shared; it would be worth your while to listen to the Podcast posted at www.ldei.org. 11 [ Round 'em Up ] Partners! By Brent T. Frei, LDEI Director of Partnership Development Although not the Chisholm Trail, which passed through Austin beginning in the 1860s, all paths in the Hyatt Regency Austin led to the “feed lot.” Delectable aromas enticed Dames to a grazing lunch where 15 of LDEI’s 19 official 2013 partners showcased tastings, products, special offers, and other information at this year’s Partners Showcase Luncheon in Austin on October 25, making this muchloved annual event one of the largest in LDEI’s history. Photos by Susan Slack Silver partner Kikkoman Sales USA, represented by chef and manager of culinary development Helen Roberts, offered beef crostini featuring thinly sliced roast beef, sliced onion, fresh parsley and grated Parm atop sliced Italian bread that had been brushed with a blend of olive oil and soy sauce before toasting. The delicious bite got its meaningful umami flavor kick (without all the salt) thanks to Kikkoman Less Sodium Soy Sauce. www.kikkomanusa.com Kerrygold, which upgraded to Bronze from its Friend-level partnership in 2012, showcased several of its top-selling signature cheeses (all made exclusively from the milk of grass-fed cows) via a cheese board that included Cashel Blue, Dubliner, Skellig, Dubliner with Irish Stout and Cheddar with Irish Whiskey, along with nuts, dried fruits, chutneys and breads. Additionally, an onion/fig tart featuring Cashel Blue was the talk of the event. Icing on the cake, so to speak, was a block of Kerrygold Salted Butter on each tabletop, served European style. This year, besides representation from Sandy Hu, on hand were Roisin Hennerty, president of Kerrygold and the Irish Dairy Board, and Molly O’Loughlin, Kerrygold’s marketing director. www.kerrygoldusa.com A glorious variety of fresh and dried figs starred at returning Bronze partner California Fig Advisory Board’s station, at which Karla Stockli and her agency representative, Maria Kniestedt, served pork tenderloin with fig-cocoa sauce, a signature recipe from Houston-based celeb chef Robert Del Grande. Additionally, the board displayed a cascade of California figs and fig products with fine cheeses from fellow LDEI partner Kerrygold. www.californiafigs.com 12 Chef Neil Doherty returned to the LDEI Conference for a second year representing Bronze partner Sysco Corporation, and like last year, brought with him Shelley Carr, senior director of culinary development. Gwendoline Peters of Sysco-European Imports also helped serve from the lavish display, which included seared Certified Angus Beef tenderloin, carved to order and plated with a tossed-to-order salad of Brussels sprouts, kale, and red quinoa brightly dressed with a splash of citrus, and an array of imported cheeses produced by women cheesemakers along with classic charcuterie: pâtés, terrines and sliced cured meats, all accompanied by a variety of condiments. www.sysco.com Bronze partner Wente Vineyards, represented by Amy Hoopes and two of the winery’s managers, (Nicole Quandt shown here), poured tastings of entwine by Food Network—a 2010 California Merlot and a 2011 California Pinot Grigio. Morning Fog Chardonnay 2012, Livermore Valley; Riva Ranch Chardonnay 2012, Arroyo Seco, Monterey; Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon, 2011, Livermore Valley; and Murrieta’s Well The Whip 2012, Livermore Valley, were also enjoyed by Dames.www.wentevineyards.com Les Dames d’Escoffier International Returning Copper partner Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute, represented by Claudia Hogue, foodservice director, and Karl Uri, marketing specialist, offered freshfrom-the-sea Alaska snow-crab claws with a trio of dipping sauces featuring Kikkoman products: soy-ginger sauce, hoisin ranch dressing and Thai chili mayonnaise. www.wildalaskaflavor.com Dedicated students enrolled in the culinary-arts program at the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts in Austin represented new Friend partner Escoffier Online International Culinary Academy by serving tastings of goose confit with roasted-pumpkin/pecan purée; a tart with mushrooms and JBG first-of-the-season parsnips; and Auguste Escoffier’s signature classic dessert, Peach Melba. Students’ involvement and efforts were organized by Nancy Marr, special-events manager at the school, who also represented the partner and its parent company, Triumph Higher Education Group, at the station. www.escoffieronline.com Breville USA, a returning Copper partner represented by national sales manager Amy Billetz and beverage-category manager Stefanie Tiong, served affogatos—shots of espresso over Amy’s Mexican-Vanilla Ice Cream—with assistance from Maria Gomez’ husband, Dean, and Dame Susan Jaime of locally based Ferra Coffee. www.brevilleusa.com The James Beard Foundation, a first-time LDEI partner at the Copper level, offered information on exciting new programs of interest to Dames, particularly in the areas of women’s issues and environmental sustainability. Shelley Menaged was on hand to answer Dames’ questions about the Foundation’s philanthropic and other efforts. www.jamesbeard.org Inspired by the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday, Debbie Wheeler of returning Friend partner Mahatma Rice wowed guests with her cranberry/brown-rice dressing featuring Mahatma Whole Grain Brown Rice. Mahatma is the No. 1 rice brand in the United States, and through this dish, it was easy to see why. www.mahatmarice.com Some of the New York Dames at the 2013 James Beard Foundation Gala, "Women in Whites": Carol Brock, Mary Ellen Griffin, Dorothy Hamilton, Pam Morgan. Friend partner American Roland Food Corp.’s booth was represented by Lisa Kartzman, director of public relations, and Lisa Ekus, president of The Lisa Ekus Group, LLC, with help from volunteer chef Bernadette Diaz, a recent graduate of the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts. Roland served up a wildly popular farrotto (creamy farro) featuring the following Roland products: farro, dried mushrooms, olive oil and fine sea salt. Additionally, the trio served chicken breast marinated in Roland’s sambal oelek sauce. www.rolandfood.com LDEI welcomed Cakebread Cellars as a returning Friend partner from 2011, which allowed attending Dames to greet and congratulate Dolores Cakebread, recipient of this year’s Grande Dame Award. Dolores and her local distributor rep poured tastings of 2012 Chardonnay Napa Valley, 2011 Pinot Noir Anderson Valley and 2012 Sauvignon Blanc. www.cakebread.com W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 Returning Friend partner Peter’s Chocolate, represented by Julie Martin and Angela Weidner for Courtney LeDrew, offered fine confections to satisfy Dames’ après-meal desire for a scrumptious taste of exquisite-quality chocolate. www.peterschocolate.com Lesley Hill said she was pleased with the way Chef Paul French of the Hyatt Regency Austin executed her fresh Hawaiian heart-of-palm salad, which offered an exquisite balance of chile, lime and agave flavors from the Wailea Agricultural Group station. WAG returned in 2013 as a Friend partner of LDEI. www. waileaag.com Volunteer Chef Rosa Vera of the Natural Epicurean Academy of Culinary Arts in Austin contributed her carving talents by slicing beef brisket to order for sliders on pretzel rolls with wholegrain mustard, horseradish sauce, Dr. Pepper BBQ sauce and house pickles at newcomer and Friend partner WÜSTHOF’s station. The chef ’s assistance allowed WÜSTHOF rep Lori Vinz to offer incredible discounts on quality cutlery and knife sets as an exclusive opportunity for Dames attending the conference. www.wusthof-foodservice.com 13 Session 7: So You Want To Write A Cookbook? I decided that this breakout session would be a good place to start some serious thinking about writing my own cookbook. As a former pastry chef that has created hundreds of recipes, I have many times been told by friends, family and clients “you should write a cookbook.” It seemed to me that it wouldn’t be that difficult a project because all of my recipes have been tested and used 100’s of times in the bakery I created. After listening to the panelists and moderator, I now have second thoughts. It is not just about recipes. The panelists ranged from writers who created their own recipes for their own cookbooks to writers who worked with chefs on the chef ’s Session 8: Texas Tamale Shoot By Carol Fenster (Colorado) 14 Tracey Maurer, Nancy Fitch, Debbie Wheeler, Lisa Wong, Kris Ackerman, Julie Hettiger, Carla Buerkle. Photo by Lori Willis. Bottom: Rosario’s Corn, Poblano & Crab Tamales. Food styling by Julie Hettiger and Carla Buerkle; photo by Tracey Maurer. C k D L The Texas Tamale Shoot team—Commercial Food Photographer Tracy Maurer (San Antonio) and Food Stylists Julia Hettiger-Nelson (Houston) and Carla Buerkle (Houston)—showed us how to transform the typically humble, mundane tamale into a work of art with five delectable examples. The team’s challenge was to meet the goals of its client, Chef Debbie Wheeler (Houston), with five unique images featuring the flavors of Sweet, Seafood, Vegetarian, Pork, and Beef. The team’s main message: Your image is your brand, and people eat with their eyes, so it is important to present your food in the best possible light. The best way to do this is with professional food photography. We sampled delicious, beautiful tamales created by Lisa Wong (San Antonio), owner of Rosario’s Mexican Café y Cantina, and Iliana De la Vega, owner of El Naranjo, that drew us in and urged us to “become one with the tamale.” The Culinary Institute of America San Antonio and its students, as well as Nancy Fitch (San Antonio) and Kristine Ackerman (Dallas) helped make the shoot a reality. Especially helpful was an actual “set-up” of a shoot, complete with lighting, props, and a real, fresh tamale. A table of all the possible props that were considered for the shoot proved that there are many possible approaches to consider. When the team was asked about using natural, outdoor light to do food photography (for people who don’t have a studio set-up), the advice was to photograph in the shade so the sun doesn’t blow out the details. cookbook - Paula Disbrowe, Jessica Dupuy, June Naylor, Shubra Raminen, Patricia Sharpe and Ellen Sweets. We were also able to get some inside tips from Lisa Ekus. It was interesting to discover how similar and different the process was for all in getting the final books published. Each had a story to tell, from starting the process with a basic outline and proposal, testing recipes, finding the money to finance the project, getting an agent to handle the business needs, photography, getting it published, and the importance of how each part of the project had on the final book. It would have been interesting to learn what one can expect to receive for the advance and how profitable the book projects were. After listening to these women tell their story, I am rethinking the idea of my own cookbook. Broc By Barb Pires (Atlanta) Les Dames d’Escoffier International Putting the Customer Back Into Customer Service By Marje Bennetts (Los Angeles/ Orange County) Dames heard what is new, what is relevant, and what needs to be revisited when looking to revive the energy, enthusiasm, and methods of making customers the focus of good customer service. The topic was presented to a full house by Sharon Watkins (Austin), owner of the host city’s successful Chez Zee American Bistro. She talked basics, how and what is relevant today, and how to achieve good customer service. Sharon founded Chez Zee in 1989 and the restaurant continually receives rave customer reviews. Sharon explained, “It doesn’t come without attention.” Some of her favorite train- l e c r i C ing methods utilize training tools/materials created by Zing Train, a training business developed for businesses to adapt to all organizations – from restaurants and caterers to banks, schools, and more. Highlights included: • Stay current. If customers demand to take photos of each and everything on a plate, deal with it. Make it work. • Get over being right. Embrace doing it right. No need to debate an issue and look at what you believe was right; instead, make it right NOW for customers. Acknowledge their opinion; let them be heard. • Train executives, managers, and all employees in customer service. Practice good hiring. Make the right choices early with employees who are trainable and sustainable, and keep it going. Training and communicating expectations needs to be forever. Sharon concluded with reminding all to keep it simple, with great customer service the goal with tools to achieve this goal. This creates recommendations, return visits, and ultimately success. Sysco Delivers... Quality, Integrity, Services, Austin Dames Kavita Patel, Kitty Crider, and Kate Rowe offer great customer service at the registration desk. Sharon Watkins Broc ircle kC L D EI Brock Circle Adds Five Chapters at Conference At the annual Council of Delegates meeting in Austin, a very exciting challenge was posed. Alice Gautsch Foreman promised to pay for the secondyear, $1,000 installment for up to five chapters if they committed to join the Brock Circle yearly pledge. The following five chapters accepted her offer and joined the Circle: • Austin • Boston • Philadelphia • St. Louis • San Francisco W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 Freshness, Value, Comfort. Chicago and Seattle have since joined and become our 9th and 10th chapter members. The other chapters who are members of the Brock Circle are Atlanta, Dallas, and Houston. Including 25 individual Dames, the Brock Circle currently totals 35 members. For the complete list of current Brock Circle members, please go to ldei.org. 15 Chapter Photos Broc ircle kC L D 1 EI 2 Broc ircle kC L D D L Broc ircle kC 3 4 EI EI 5 6 CiCi Williamson, Katherine Newell Smith, Linda Joyce Forristal, Stacey Adams. 6. NEW YORK Front: Nancy Jessup, Margaret Happel Perry, Mary Ellen Griffin, Carol Brock, Beth Allen, Pamela Morgan, Suzen O'Rourke. Back: Joan Bloom, Patricia Cobe, Marsha Palanci, Vanessa Trost, Liz Young, Regina Ragone. 7. MINNEAPOLIS/ST. PAUL Merrilyn Tauscher, Cindy Jurgensen. 8. PALM SPRINGS Nancy Cohee, Zola Nichols. 9. ATLANTA Front: Stacy Zeigler, Amy Crowell, Gena Berry, Shelley Pedersen, Becky Minchew, Debi Loftis, Virginia Willis, Suzanne Brown. Back: Vicky Murphy, Allison Palestrini, Tamie Cook, Holly Chute, Kathleen Perry, Mary Moore, Barb Pires, Lenada Merrick. 10. NORTHEAST Barbara Spencer, Candace Karu. 11. MIAMI Dorothee Rubin, Priscilla Bittson. 12. COLORADO Marcia Kramer, Teresa Farney, Carol Fenster, Holly Arnold Kinney. 13. BRITISH COLUMBIA Cate Simpson, Susanne Ross, Becky Paris Turner. 14. LOS ANGELES Marje Bennett, Nancy Eisman, Janet Burgess, Maria Gomez-Laurens. 15. LONDON & PHOENIX Sue Carter, Eileen Spitalny (holding drawing of Gwen Ashley Walters). 16. DALLAS Front: Karen Cassady, Sally Bolick, Renie Steves, Sharon Van Meter, Kris Ackerman. Back: Deborah Orrill, Mary Kimbrough, Paula Lambert, Susan Auler. 17. ST. LOUIS Front: Lori Willis, Judith Bellos, Kathy Rule. Back: Mary Sutkus, Cecily Hoffius. 18. HOUSTON Front: Lisa Cox, Julie Hettiger, Sarah Finster, Deborah Woehler, Marian Tindall, Chara Gafford, Diane Adams. Back: Janice Hays-Cavada, Debbie Wheeler, Barbara Cook, Carla Buerkle, Shubhra R, Molly Kaminski, Yvonne Sternes. 19. PHILADELPHIA Front: Linda Joyce Forristal, Kathy Gold, Lynn Buono. Back: Adrienne Abramson, Dorothy Koteski. 20. CHARLESTON Front: Danielle Wecksler, Nathalie, Susan Slack. Back: Susan Wigley, Deidre Schipani 21. SAN DIEGO Front: Janet Burgess, Dana Chaldekas, Marie Kelley. Back: Maria Gomez-Laurens, Sharon VanMeter. 22. KANSAS CITY Kathy Moore, Kimberly Winter Stern, Martha Morgan Pruitt. 23. CLEVELAND Front: Crickett Karson, Molly Thompson, Shara Bohach. Back: Carol Hacker, Beth Davis-Noragon. 24. SEATTLE Front: Alice Gautsch Foreman, Braiden Rex-Johnson, Katherine Kehrli. Back: Marilyn Carlson, Patricia Gelles, Anne Nisbet. 25. MONTEREY BAY Front: Nancy Marr, Mary Chamberlin. Back: Karla Stockli, Sharon VanMeter. 26. HAWAII Front: Soleil Fusha, Hayley Matson-Mathes, Cheryl To. Back: Lesley Hill, Nancy Edney. The Austin Chapter is pictured on the cover. ircle kC Broc 1. SAN FRANCISCO Front: Peggy Smith, Sandra Hu, Elaine Corn, Dolores Cakebread, Eileen Spitalny Back: Tanya Holland, Amy Hoopes, Chef Helen Roberts, Sue Conley. 2. SAN ANTONIO Front: Kathy Shearer, Pat Mozersky, Linda Triesch, Leslie Horne Back:Lauren Browning, Christine Kelly, Nancy Fitch, Tracey Maurer, Kim Mauldin, Maureen Weissman, Lisa Wong, Di-Anna Arias, Susan Jaime . 3. CHICAGO Front: Patty Erd, Linda Avery, Sara Reddington, Donna Pierce. Back: Sharon Olson, Shannon Kinsella, Jean Marie Brownson, Jennifer Lamplough, Veronica Hastings, Karen Levin, Toria Emas, Judith Schad. 4. BOSTON Front: Isabel Chesak, Guida Ponte, Winnie Williams, Lucille Giovino. Back: Gwen Trost, Toni Manning, Lee Napoli, Lisa Ekus. 5. WASHINGTON, DC Front: Theresa Morrison, Linda Roth Conte, Drew Faulkner, Ann Stratte, Judy Rusignuolo. Back: Teresa Farney, L D 16 EI Les Dames d’Escoffier International 7 9 8 10 14 13 12 11 Broc Broc D L 16 D L 15 ircle kC ircle kC 17 EI EI Broc ircle kC L D 19 EI Broc ircle kC L D 18 EI 20 23 21 22 26 25 Photos by Kenneth Gall. Broc ircle kC L D 24 EI W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 17 Friday is for Fiesta! By CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.) Ahhhhh, ha! Lively mariachi music beckoned Dames to stroll into the Friday-night Fiesta! down the street from the conference hotel at The Long Center for the Performing Arts. But to our delight, the music was emanating from an all-female group, Mariachi Las Coronelas. Las damas were clad in slinky, red-satin dresses, their trumpets, guitars, violins, and vihuelas (high-pitched, five-string guitars) at high volume. Strung around the room were colorful papeles picados (perforated, rectangular paper banners). Many tables, and, yes, even a bicycle cart, of food waited to be dipped, sipped, slurped, and spooned. Offered on los bufés draped with colorful cloths were nopales (cactus paddle)-andjicama salads, lamb barbacoa, beef brisket, chicken al carbon, spicy salsitas in paper cones, handmade tortillas, and of course, bowls of guacamole and salsas with piles of chips. Restaurants providing la comida (food) included Al Alma, El Naranjo, Fresa’s Chicken, and T1 Tequila Uno. White luminarias (perforated paper bags) filled with paper flowers comprised the dining table centerpieces. Bar service included tequila-spiked, tropical-fruit punches served in glass jars (just like street vendors in Mexico serve them); margaritas; Real (Royal) ale; and Wente wines. Para los postres (desserts), one could choose from frozen ice creams and sorbets kept cold in the bicycle cart. Flavors included café con leche, tres-leches cake, mint-chocolate chip, Mexican goat’s milk, and coconut sorbet provided by Fresa’s. At the far end of the room, Dames could have group photos taken at Smilebooth con muy guapo (with very handsome) Cowboy Kyle. As the event wound down, it was ¡Buenas noches con mucho gusto! Top photo: Washington D.C. Dames with Cowboy Kyle. Back: Stacey Adams, Katherine Newell Smith, CiCi Williamson, Ann Stratte, Theresa Morrison. Front: Judy Rusignuolo, Drew Faulkner, Carolyn Cheney (CiCi’s Mom). Middle photo: Molly Thompson, Crickett Karson. Bottom photo: Judy Schad, Cathy Strange. 18 Les Dames d’Escoffier International Serving Local Foods for Everyday Meals By Molly Reams Thompson (Cleveland) and Heather Hunter (San Antonio) What if one conversation could literally change the course of a community environmentally, socially and economically? This year’s national Green Tables (GT) Committee set out to do just that by serving up a generous helping of sustainable-food conversation at the conference breakfast on October 26. This year’s theme, “Serving Local Foods for Everyday Meals,” was established by committee members Wendy Taggart (Dallas), Molly Kaminski (Houston), Shubhra Ramineni (Houston), Julia Rosenfeld (San Antonio), Heather Hunter (San Antonio), Drew Faulkner (Washington, DC) and Molly Thompson (Cleveland), who also served as the morning’s moderator. Others who were integral but worked behind-the-scenes included GT Chairs, Linda Geren and Lynn Fredericks, as well as Ashley James (creator of the GT blog and Pinterest sites). The event featured four stars of Texas—one shining example from each of the Texas chapters: Following the panel, there was an outpouring of interest and support. One Dame was so moved, she wrote a check to support Silbia Esparza’s Time Dollar Community Connections in San Antonio. As arbiters of excellence in fine food, beverage, and hospitality, it is incumbent upon us as Dames to be champions of change in the food communities in which we live. Hungry for more? Please visit the Green Tables page and the new blog on the LDEI website at ldei.org. now playing at wusthofedge.com Chef Katherine Clapner Dude, Sweet Chocolate, Dallas, TX 13628_4293_LDEI ConfrenceAustin_3.7917x5.0498.indd 1 9/24/13 5:48 PM Handcrafted Premium Sake from Niigata Japan Image by Timothy Hogan • Wendy Taggart, (Dallas) and cofounder of Burgundy Pasture Beef, demonstrated the power of producing a dry-aged beef as well as networking with other local producers to offer a range of superior products for everyday meals. Jeannette Ferrary was honored to have her Belmont Farmer’s Market photograph selected the winner of the LDEI Green • Heather Hunter Tables Eating Real photo. (San Antonio), founder of Cowgirl Granola and the Quarry Farmers Market, and Silbia Esparza, executive director of Time Dollar, shared the impact of their unique partnership whereby surplus produce and other fine edibles are donated to the food pantry each week. • Monica Pope, renowned farm-to-fork Houston chef, shared how her commitment to real food brings together people in her local community. • Ronda Rutledge, executive director of Austin’s Sustainable Food Center (also the organization that hosted the Day of Service on Food Day on October 24) enlightened the audience about the importance of access to local food in any community. the Outlaw An extraordinary achievement Be A Hiro, drink responsibly Hiro Sake_ODRSPR13.indd 1 W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 2/14/13 1:09 PM 19 Sessions Session 10: Planning Your Chapter's GCI Programs By Marian Tindall (Houston) 1. Benefits of Global Programs/ Outreach Benefits include understanding others, educating ourselves, retaining culinary history, gaining deeper insight into food and new uses for culinary ingredients, jump-starting your own creativity, and having a fun and delicious experience! Chamber of Commerce, culinary historians, local food festivals, gourmet food importers, international trade organizations, visiting authors, teachers and experts, cooking schools and universities, and religious groups. One organization active in this field is The Norman Borlaug Institute for International Agriculture. The Texas A&M University System continues the Borlaug legacy by fighting global hunger and poverty. It is committed to global partnerships to promote food security, resource conservation, and international development. The university will provide instructions and materials for starting school gardens. 2. Who or what can assist us in achieving global culinary knowledge? We can utilize all of the following: Cultural centers such as the French 3. What factors would keep a chapter from undertaking GCI programs? Time, money, and participation are factors. People may fear new LDEI Past President and Global Culinary Initiative Chair, Sandy Hu (San Francisco), led the session tailored to chapters’ needs. Much helpful information was gleaned. 20 or foreign ideas and people. Our mantra should be: Think global, but act local. 4. Ideas for implementing GCI • Tour of an international food market: stage a scavenger hunt around the market. • LDEI international book fair. • Program on dining etiquette or table settings in different countries or cultures. • Program on themed food: sacred food of India, Day of the Dead in Mexico. • Program around spices or uses of a grain, such as rice, in different cultures. • Do a dine-around at ethnic restaurants in the community or open it up to the public and charge for it. • Contact an ethnic community garden. • Program using one ingredient, such as chicken, prepared ac- Sandy Hu. Photo by Susan Slack cording to three different ethnic cuisines. • Start a culinary book club. Read and discuss a book: Like Water for Chocolate or High on the Hog; follow up with a restaurant visit. 5. Remember to send information on chapter activities involving GCI to the Quarterly! Les Dames d’Escoffier International Photo by Susan Slack A Legacy of Leadership: Looking Toward the Future By Susan Fuller Slack (Charleston) Five professional women were lauded as LDEI’s 2013 Legacy Awards recipients in Austin during the annual Legacy Awards luncheon. The audience was informed and inspired hearing the winners share stories of their one-week, Dame-hosted externships and how their career paths are being impacted in a positive way. Kikkoman Sales USA hosted the elegant luncheon; Helen Roberts (San Francisco), Kikkoman’s Manager of Culinary Development, organized the event. Looking to the East for inspiration, she arranged a first course of Nutty Noodles with Peanut Dressing followed by a main course of Ginger–Soy Infused Steamed Alaska Halibut, Roasted Asparagus, and Asian Coleslaw with Candied Walnuts. The halibut was provided by LDEI Partner Alaska Marketing Seafood Institute. The dishes paired beautifully with two Wente Family Estates California wines: Double Decker Pinot Grigio 2011 and Red Blend 2010. Dessert was a sweet indulgence of Crème Brulée with Orange Sauce. The flavor of each course was subtly enhanced through the use of Kikkoman’s distinctive Asian-style sauces. The 2013 awards were granted in three categories: Farm-to-Table Entrepreneurship, Culinary-Catering, and Wine. Legacy Co-chair Marcia Palanci told attendees, "The goal of the Legacy Awards program, established in 2009, is to invest in tomorrow’s leaders by putting the winners under the tutelage of talented Dames who volunteer their time and expertise. The experience is offered to non-Dame women in the USA, Canada and the UK…." Co-chair Toria Emas introduced recipients Kim Youkstetter of Shrewsbury, Massachusetts (Farm-to-Table) and Lana Bernstein of Columbus, Ohio (Culinary-Catering). Kim was hosted by Paulette Satur of Satur Farms and Ursula Massoud of Paumanok Vineyard. Lana worked under the tutelage of seven award-winning Atlanta Dame caterers: Sandra Bank, Liz Cipro, Mary Hataway, Stacy Zeigler, Kristy Cook, Nancy Lutz and Shelly Pederson. Honored in absentia, Ryann Sharpe of Rex, Georgia (CulinaryW I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 Catering), worked at the catering company of award-winning Chef Lisa Dupar (Seattle). Amy Hoopes, Executive Vice President of Global Sales and Marketing for Wente Vineyards, introduced winners Rachel Tracy of Chicago, Illinois, and Gloria Chang of Vancouver, British Columbia. Both women received a Legacy Wine award and were mentored by Wente Family Estates CEO Carolyn Wente and Amy. Marsha thanked the sponsors and Legacy Committee members for their invaluable support. The committee included Stacy Zeigler (Atlanta), Patricia Gelles (Seattle), Suzie O’Rourke (New York), Holly Hadsell-ElHajji (Hawaii), Susan Weinstein (Miami), Sue Huffman Robison (San Francisco), Barbara Ostmann (St, Louis), and Abigail Kirsch and Alison Awerbuch (New York). Toria expressed gratitude for a $12,000 grant from the Julia Child Foundation for Gastronomy and the Culinary Arts, doubling the size of the awards program. She also thanked chapters offering financial support including Atlanta, Austin, British Columbia, Dallas, Miami, Monterey, New York, and San Francisco. The spring Quarterly will salute the 2013 winners and hosts and update Dames on the exciting 2014 awards program. New hosts will include Susan Westmoreland and Sharon Franke at the Good Housekeeping Research Institute Test Kitchen and Leslie Hill at the Wailea Agricultural Group on the Big Island of Hawaii. Marsha announced that she and Toria will relinquish their Legacy Committee cochairmanship to the “bi-coastal, block-buster duo of Alison Awerbuch and Sue Huffman Robinson. With their leadership qualities, marketing savvy, and passionate commitment, the Legacy Awards are in excellent hands.” Toria says, “Co-chairing the Legacy Awards for the past five years has been the most rewarding experience of my LDEI tenure. All the women have been outstanding in their own right. Each year brings new inspiration. Our new co-chairs will expand our reach and increase the professionalism of the program.” Toria added that she and Marsha plan to remain on the committee and look forward to working behind the scenes. “Spread the word about this career-expanding opportunity and be on the lookout for talent in your area. Let’s keep the Legacy Awards alive and thriving.” We don’t mind telling you what goes into our pure, all natural Irish cheese and butter. It’s pure, all natural Irish milk that comes from cows that graze on pure, all natural Irish grass. This is where we come from. kerrygoldusa.com 21 Sessions Session 11: Texas Women Talk Texas Wines By Braiden Rex-Johnson (Seattle), LDEI Second Vice President Photo Caption: Kathy Gilstrap (left), Susan Auler, and Karen Johnson worked on the very first brochure for the Texas Wine Trail. Who knew that Texas boasts more than 270 bonded wineries, 4,400 acres of grapevines, and eight American Viticultural Areas (AVAs)? And that a cadre of talented LDEI members pioneered the Lone Star State’s wine industry? During “Texas Women Talk Texas Wines,” we learned that Susan Auler (Austin and Dallas) and her husband, Ed, are credited with “starting the modern Texas wine industry.” They launched Fall Creek Vineyards in Tow, Texas, in 1975, and their MERITUS, a multi-award-winning Bordeaux blend, has become a much-anticipated “cult” wine. Becker Vineyards, located near Fredricksburg, Texas, was started in 1992 by Bunny Becker (San Antonio) and her husband, Richard. The winery offers up award-winning Bordeaux-, Burgundian-, and Rhone-styled wines, and was the first Texas winery to plant the Viognier varietal, in 1997. Located on Lake Travis in Spicewood, Texas, Stone House Vineyard was established in 2004 by Angela Moench (Austin) and her husband, Howard. The winery is well known for crafting wines from estate-grown Norton grapes, a native American varietal. Karen Johnson (Austin), president of Alamosa Wine Cellars, established in 1996 in Bend, Texas, is proud to craft Mediterraneanstyle wines made exclusively from Texas grapes including “El Guapo,” a Spanishinspired red blend. Kathy Gilstrap (Austin) is vice president of Texas Hills Vineyard, established in 1995 and located in Johnson City, Texas. The winery specializes in wines made from Italian, Spanish, and French varietals including its famous Kick Butt Cab. “The Texas wine industry is very giving,” says Gilstrap. “Over the years, we have bought and shared equipment and even made wine at each other’s facilities.” For further info visit www.TexasWineTrail. com and www.TexasWines.org. Session 12: Dig a Big Hole, Fill It Full of Money? Tips for Starting an Artisan Food Business By Lisa Ekus (Boston) They all agreed-- follow your food passion. Each of the panelists love food, created a viable food business, and won numerous impressive awards. Not their first careers, they had a financially stable position for launching their artisan businesses. They advise, “Do not expect to earn money for quite some time—five years on average.” Paula Lambert (Dallas) opened her own business, with two women partners, after "avocationally" helping with her husband's business. Three decades later--after studying cheesemaking in Italy, she makes 30 kinds of cow, sheep, and goat’s milk cheese and sells nationwide. “I learned just about everything I know by volunteer work! I took every culinary seminar I could at conferences and the Fancy Food Show about how to have a specialty-food business and bring your product to market. These were invaluable resources. Think about how you are going to distribute: wholesale or 22 retail? Join every organization; network to build personal relationships/friends. It’s easy to create a product, but it’s hard to sell a new product!” Tracy Claros (Austin), Founder Sticky Toffee Pudding Co., discovered and loved this English dessert. From farmers’ market sales, she began selling her now-international product in 2004. Her challenge: Explaining “pudding” and getting people to taste it. After attending NASFT, she realized she needed more than one product to survive. Claros says “It takes creativity, financing, production facilities, packaging, branding, and marketing. It’s almost better not to know what you’re getting into. I’m a risk taker. I plunged in and just did it!” Her first production space cost her $5 per hour. Then she leased 1500 square feet of space for three years. Eventually she was turning down customers because her facility couldn’t produce enough, so she decided to use a co-packer. Buyer Kendall Sky Antonelli (Austin) and her husband opened Antonelli’s Cheese Shop four years ago. “He picked cheese and cheese picked us,” she says. Passionate about American artisanal cheese, their goal was to tell the farm-bound producers’ stories to their customers. They also have a cheese house across the street offering classes and a wholesale program to educate local chefs. “Do the numbers at the back end, work out the budget, and figure out the timing to make a profit. Make sure to get product in the best shape all year round.” Her philosophy: “Let’s grow together. Be persistent and keep coming back. You’re the biggest advocate as the provider. You have to keep championing your product.” Stephanie McClenny (Austin), founder of Confituras, started a jam company while she was also a pediatric nurse. She expanded her home-canning hobby to a farmers’ market space, selling out of 150 jars in two hours. “It was a relatively low investment and the right time for local food lovers.” The quantity limitations of local fruit inadvertently created demand. Her reputation brought many of the stores to her, and she now has product in over a dozen stores in Austin. “I watch the weather a lot! Every year it (her product) is a little bit different, and people appreciate that. I’m always changing and improving product and increasing the number of recipes for customers.” Les Dames d’Escoffier International grande dame award dinner By Lori Willis (St. Louis, LDEI First Vice President) Like the fine wines she produces, Dolores Cakebread, has only gotten better with age. At the age of 80 she remains one of the most respected women in the wine industry. And, on October 26, many corks were popped in celebration as she was honored with Les Dames d’Escoffier International’s prestigious Grande Dame award. Dolores and her husband, Jack, started the winery by chance when they casually made an offer to buy a vineyard in the Napa Valley. A short time later, in 1973, they introduced the very first Cakebread wine and have never looked back. Dolores’ 40-year career as a winemaker has inspired many industry leaders–women and men alike. One in particular was there to pay special tribute to her at the Grande Dame banquet. Amy Hoopes (San Francisco), Executive Vice President of Global Sales/ Chief Marketing Officer of Wente Wines, presented Dolores with a large-format bottle of Wente Wine, along with a toast, offering congratulations and best wishes from one prominent California family winery to another. The Cakebreads are known for their dedication to quality; progressive winemaking; and good, old fashioned hospitality. Wine lovers from all over the country come to Napa to meet Dolores and her family, and see where their favorite wines originate (see the Fall 2013 Quarterly for a full story on the Cakebreads). Over the past 40 years, Dolores and Jack have worked side-by-side to build their wine business, turning their personal love story into a successful family enterprise. Today, Cakebread Cellars is operated by sons Dennis and Bruce, both of whom are committed to keeping their parents’ dream alive. Perhaps Jack summed up the Cakebreads’ vision best, in a quote from the website, “One heartbeat since 1973.” Food and wine were stellar. Chaired by Beth Pav, Austin Dames including Kristine Kittrell, Teresa Wilson, and Sharon Watkins starred in the salad, soup, and dessert courses, supplemented by the Hyatt Regency Austin’s Executive Chef, Paul French, on the entrée and cheese courses. The evening’s wines were supplied by longtime LDEI sponsor Wente Vineyards. Decor by Beth Pav's committee, was stunning, the formal tables in the warmly lighted dining room graced by statuesque tube vases filled with hydrangeas, irises, lilies, and forsythia in contrasting shades of white, orange, purple, and yellow. Kittrell’s Roasted Beet Salad (of all colors and varieties!), topped by LDEI Sponsor Alaska Seafood Marketing Institute’s Weathervane Scallops paired perfectly with Wente Vineyards Riva Ranch 2012 Chardonnay. Wilson’s spicy Roasted Eggplant Velouté with Za’atar-Scented Panisses played nicely with Wente Vineyards Reliz Creek 2010 Pinot Noir, while French’s Smoked PimentoRubbed Short Rib held up well to Wente’s Charles Wetmore 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon. Why is Executive Director Greg Jewell smiling? Because it’s Saturday night and his job as trail boss herding cats has ended ... for this conference. Meow! Above: Amy Hoopes (right) presents an engraved bottle of Wente wine to Grande Dame Dolores Cakebread. Photo by Lori Willis. The cheese course was assembled by Paul French, Executive Chef, Hyatt Regency Austin, and included Jarlsberg Classic, Hickory Smoked Jarlsberg, Ski Queen Gjetost, and SnoFrisk Cheeses Cheeses (donated by Jarlsberg USA) with a Fig Compote, Quince, Local Honeycomb, and Grilled Ciabatta, and paired with Wente Vineyards Small Lot Orange Muscat 2012, Livermore Valley. Photo by CiCi Williamson. Dessert was a sunny-bright Lemon-Rosemary Cake with Lemon Curd and Whipped Cream-Cheese Frosting, a recipe of Sharon Watkins, Owner, Chez Zee American Bistro, accompanied by Ferra Coffee’s Kaldi—a unique coffee blend with beans from Ethiopia, Guatemala, and Mexico. Photo by Susan Slack. W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 23 Compiled by Janet Burgess (San Diego) B oston the Art Institute (Ai) of Charleston, hosted the annual LDEI Charleston Chapter’s scholarship luncheon. Honored at this event were: Neelie Carroll, LeeAnne Lower, and Brianna Wagner. Wagner, an Ai student, made the desserts for the Dames. Carroll and Lower attend the College of Charleston. Miroslava (Mirka) Zelanakova, a student at Trident Technical College’s Culinary College of Charleston, was unable to attend. Lucille Giovino In September, 36 Dames and guests attended a tea tasting at L’Espalier restaurant in Boston. We were greeted with a surprise Champagne-and-EarlGrey cocktail followed by a five-course tea tour of Hawaii, China, and Taiwan. Dame and tea sommelier Cynthia Gold led us through the tasting of three courses perfectly paired with an appetizer, unusual tea sandwiches, and desserts. Of note, these teas are so rare and precious that they are stored in their own humidor. Cynthia has travelled the world visiting tea plantations to learn firsthand knowledge from the farmers who create these special teas. In October, Guida Ponte, with the help of Massachusetts Audubon Society/Drumlin Farm Education Specialist Sally Farrow, participated in National Food Week with the students from Robinson Middle School in Lowell, Mass. Guida spent the afternoon cooking with the students who learned about new foods and how delicious vegetables are. High school students from the Greater Lowell Technical High-School helped Guida and Sally “Get Kids Cooking” as the middle schoolers learned to make carrot soup, citrus salad, pumpkin whoopie pies, and candy apples. C hicago JeanMarie Brownson Cynthia Gold and Guida Ponte. C harleston Deidre Schipani Thanks to Donna Gustafson, of Epic Feast, our September 11 annual business meeting took place in the former residence of Revolutionary War patriot Major Peter Bocquet, Jr. The 1770 property, an example of some of the finest Georgian interior architecture in Charleston, had been destined for the wrecking ball, but was saved thanks to the efforts of Ronald Momier. Our new 2013-2014 chapter Front row: scholarship winners Brianna Wagner, members, and their sponsors, are Neelie Carroll, LeeAnne Lower. Back row: Deidre listed below. Schipani, Susan Wigley, Jacqueline Orak, Jennifer Lisa Buzzelli, Hospitality and Goldman, Nathalie Dupree, Paige Crone, Danielle Wecksler, Lauren Mitterer, Devany Vickery-Davidson, Tourism Instructor, Trident TechLisa Buzzelli. nical College/CIC; Angel Postell. Sara Clow, General Manager, GrowFood Carolina; Elizabeth Beak. Devany Vickery-Davidson, Spice and Tea Exchange, Freelance Food Writer, Photographer, and PR; Nathalie Dupree. Jill Mathias, Executive Chef, Carolina’s; Lauren Mitterer. Ann Marie, Faculty, Arts Institute (Ai); Susan Wigley Jessica Mischner, Senior Editor, Garden and Gun; Maggie Kennedy. On Friday October 19, 24 North Market, the student-run restaurant at 24 The Union League Club of Chicago hosted the Chicago Dames Who Read on September 9. Judith Dunbar Hines led the discussion of Thomas Jefferson’s Crème Brulee, How a Founding Father and His Slave James Hemings Introduced French Cuisine to America by Thomas J. Craughwell. The evening began with a tour of the127-year-old club’s magnificent art collection, one of the largest privately held collections in the United States. Much of the evening’s book discussion centered on the 86 crates of kitchen equipment and foodstuffs Thomas Jefferson acquired during his 1784 to 1789 tenure in Paris. Olive oil, Maille Mustard, anchovies, macaroni, and cases of wine never seen before in this country were shipped to the port of Boston. In France, Jefferson studied the cultivation of French crops, collected wines and seeds and discovered new cooking gadgets. Meanwhile, his slave, James Crème Brulee Union League Dinner on September 9, 2013. Hemings, apprenticed under Menu and Book for Dames French master chefs. Union League Club Chef, Michael Garbin welcomed Dames to one of the modern-art-filled dining rooms of the magnificent 1925 building. Inspired by President Jefferson and Craughwell’s entertaining narrative history, Chef Garbin served a Jefferson-themed dinner with multiple vegetable dishes and a modicum of meat. In this case, meltingly tender veal shank. Dinner concluded with Jefferson’s cherished sweets: French macarons, pâtes de fruits, and crème brûlée. CLEVELAND Shara Bohach On September 23, we held our annual meeting at Lucky’s Cafe Tremont. After the Chapter meeting’s business, including a “Year in Review,” Heather Haviland and her fabulous staff dished up an amazing, as-local-as-it-gets menu. She described the ingredients which came predominately from Ohio farms, and as close as the garden next to the restaurant. Dames brought their own wine to share over this truly delectable dinner. The table, decked Les Dames d’Escoffier International Birmingham Becomes 29th Chapter of LDEI By CiCi Williamson (Washington, D.C.) Cleveland Dames from L-R: Rosemary Hurst, Jean Mackenzie, Shara Bohach, Beth DavisNoragon, Linda Fletcher, Mimma Bonderer, Carmella Fragassi, Maggie Harrison, Nichole Clark, Terry Frick, Elaine Cicora, Marilou Suszko, Marty Nagele, Cynthia Eaken. Chocolate Mousse Bombe out in a beautiful fall theme with candelabras and fresh flowers, added to the cozy ambiance. COLORADO Beverly Cox On October 20, Colorado Dames enjoyed afternoon tea and a private tour of Cherokee Castle, home of the late Tweet Kimball who was a famous Colorado cattle woman, conservationist, and Colorado Dames: Lois Hoffman, Sally Davidson, Jan Findlater. hostess extraorSeated: Holly Arnold Kinney, Beverly Cox, Carol Fenster, Teresa Farney, Sandra Weber. Guests in foreground: Jan’s friend Maridinaire. Kimball lyn Cockburn and Sandra’s charming mother, Nadine Weber. entertained HRH Princess Anne among many other luminaries. As we left the castle, we were fortunate to spot the magnificent wild elk herd that roams on Cherokee ranch. H AWA I I Jean Hull On October 16, Jean Hull and Dr. Carol Whitaker presented an American Culinary Federation (ACF) Chef-and-Child Cooking Class to 17 children between the ages of nine and 11. The children loved the class and are asking for more healthy cooking classes. Hull and Whitaker reach over 1,000 children in West Hawaii through Dr. Carol Whittaker with children. various ACF programs to give children a “gift that lasts a lifetime,” making wise food choices. The menu consisted of Garden Salad with Homemade Ranch Dressing, Oven-Roasted Chicken Nuggets and Black-Bean ChocolateKissed Cupcakes with Homemade Vanilla Ice Cream. MIAMI Marguerite Gil Our gala dinner took place on November 16, at the Ritz Carlton in Coconut Grove, Miami. Executive Chef Ramesh Kaduru and his team prepared an unforgettable dinner for everyone to enjoy in a regal setting. Attention to detail was paramount for this special evening and even our beautiful invitations had a noble story to tell. The invitations were handmade by members of the Miami Paper Museum located in the historic Biltmore Hotel, Miami. Using an ancient technique the paper was composed of fabric, paper pulp, flowW I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 The largest group ever to petition LDEI for a new chapter charter was approved at the annual Council of Delegates meeting on October 26. More than 50 qualified women were part of the weighty petition submitted to LDEI by Chapter President Angela Schmidt. Angela said, “I have dreamed of uniting the women in Birmingham for nine years, and I am in awe of the women who have joined me in that vision. We have an incredible amount of talent and accomplishment in this city. It fills me with great pride to think of what we will accomplish as a group.” After hearing the news that her Birmingham Chapter had been approved, she said, “I immediately texted all the officers, who were just as ecstatic as I was!” Angela first heard about LDEI working as a server for Marla Adams (Atlanta), Chef/ Owner of Babette’s Café. After moving to Nathalie Dupree, Becky Satterfield, Angela Schmidt, Birmingham, Angela CCi Williamson. Photo by the waiter! Angela Schmidt leads the discussion about starting contacted me in 2003 when I was LDEI Presi- a new Birmingham Chapter. Photo by CiCi Williamson. dent, and we’ve emailed intermittently over the years. Finally the time was right for Angela to work on starting a chapter: She had the time, Birmingham had escalated to a great food city, and culinary women needed to join for mutual support. Amy Hoopes, LDEI Secretary, tasked with chapter expansion, began working with Angela on the requirements to charter a chapter. When Amy’s schedule prohibited her from attending the initial gathering of interested women, Grande Dame Nathalie Dupree and I flew to Birmingham on September 7. Picked up at our hotel by Becky Satterfield (now Vice President for Membership), whom Angela had met at a local “Iron Chef ” competition, we enjoyed dinner at Highlands Bar and Grill prepared by Chef Frank Stitt III, whose wife Pardis is the new chapter’s Vice President for Programs. On Sunday morning at a brunch hosted by Brett Bright, manager of Avo, I presented a PowerPoint history of LDEI, Nathalie gave a talk, and we fielded questions about LDEI. Many thanks to Susan Swagler (Chapter Secretary) who brought a laptop and connected it to the big-screen TV. The reception was attended by an extraordinary group of 28 accomplished culinary women in all stages of careers that varied from Southern Living test-kitchen chefs to journalists and restaurant owners. The room was electric with the sound of excited women’s voices. If you can imagine steel-toed “magnolias” with honey dripping from their chins, you’ll get the idea of how business will be accomplished in the new “Deep South” Birmingham Chapter. 25 ers, threads, and a variety of organic garden materials. Next the paper was soaked and mixed with water then poured over screens filled with blossoms and leaves. Once set, the paper was carefully dried, then cut one by one into its present format (8 x 10). Press-dried grape leaves from Lucila Venet Jimenez’s garden were placed onto each folded invitation then wrapped and tied with a blue ribbon that is reminiscent of the colors of the Les Dames’ logo. The inside printing was pressed onto woodblocks (6 ½ x 4 1/2) which created a bas-relief frame similar to artistic lithographic works of art. Dames agreed that our beautiful invitations were suitable for framing. N ew York Margaret Happel Perry September began with a flourish and an important evening at Amali Restaurant to welcome Melanie Young’s new book, Getting Things Off My Chest: A Survivor’s Guide to Staying Fearless and Fabulous in the Face of Breast Cancer. Our nutrition experts–Bonnie Tandy LeBlang, Ellie Krieger, and Regina Ragone–addressed the issues of women and wellness to a sold-out event. The excellent discussion led LDNY to form an ad hoc committee under the leadership of Bay Wellington to explore the viability of having a separate Green Tables women’s health and nutrition initiative. The month progressed with the New Members Celebration 2013 as we welcomed 14 new, distinguished members into LDNY plus one returning member. And so on to October: First a farm-to-table trip to State University of New York at Cobleskill—thanks to Jo Anne Cloughy, Department Chair, Agriculture and Food Management, to enjoy a splendid tour of farms and dairies in Schoharie County. The day culminated in a wonderful dinner catered by Jo Anne’s students. Georgia Downard and her team continued to work their nutritional magic through their interface with PTALabs and Wellness in the Schools (WITS) program. The Green Tables evenings educate parents by demonstration, panel discussion, and taste-tests extolling the benefits of eating right. On October 30, Barbara Sibley hosted a members-only evening at her restaurant La Palapa Cocina Mexicana for Dames to learn about the Mexican feast commemorating the Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) and all its fascinating traditions. NORTHEAST Victoria Taylor On August 3, Northeast Chapter Dames gathered for a series of farm tours. It was a great success, with 15 Dames in attendance. We visited four diverse farms in New England on a beautiful day for a fun and educational event. The tour began with coffee and pastries at Luanne Bonanno’s family farm in Methuen, Mass. Next we headed north via a private tour bus to Colby Farmstand in Newburyport–home to 30 grain-fed pigs that produce 300 to 400 piglets every year. After a tour of Colby Farms, we visited Mann Orchards for a farm-to-fork lunch including a selection of “Mann-wines” and craft beers. After lunch, our tour headed to Shaw Farm dairy for dessert--a taste of one of the dairy’s 60 varieties of hand-crafted ice cream for dessert. The tour concluded mid-afternoon at Bonanno Farm. PHILADELPHIA Lari Robling In what was hailed as one of the most energetic and inspiring annual business meetings in recent memory, we welcomed eight new Dames at Michele Haines’ restaurant, Spring Mill Café. Through our scholarship fundraising efforts we provided three recipients with our Green Tables, C-CAP, and Chapter Culinary scholarships. Past presidents presented highlights of their terms as history to new members and fond memories to established members. In October, the chapter was invited to a luncheon by Rita Cinelli of Cathedral Kitchen in Camden, New Jersey. The lunch was prepared by students in the kitchen’s culinary training program. After a delicious meal showcasing their command 26 of mother sauces, Dames spoke about their career paths and answered questions. Later that month, Charlotte-Ann Albertson hosted an event featuring a local food columnist. A portion of the proceeds of the event benefit the chapter’s scholarship fund. Meanwhile, Kathy Gold, Adrienne Abramson, Dottie Koteski, Michele Haines, Lynn Buono, Lisa Kartzman, and Linda Forristal attended the conference in Austin, providing Tweets and Facebook posts to tantalize those who couldn’t attend. And on Halloween, there were no tricks, only treats, as the chapter partnered with Philadelphia Slow Food for a Food Day event at the Reading Terminal Market. Showcasing the region’s bounty for the many residents and tourists that visit this historic market, Chapter President Kathy Gold along with Tia McDonald, Michele Haines, and Linda Geren provided cooking demonstrations and recipes. S an A N TO N I O Blanca Aldaco On October 8, the San Antonio Chapter had an exciting CoCo Chanel-inspired evening at the home of Pat Mozersky as our Co-Presidents Leslie Horne and Linda Triesch (CoCo’s from here on) thanked the board and handed over their presidency to Kathy Shearer. Our new president welcomed Naylene Dillingham as the New Dames, L-R, Gina Inglett-Gonzalez, Debbie new Vice President of Membership. Gonzalez, Leslie Ausburn Four new members were welcomed to the chapter: Leslie Ausburn, Gina Inglett-Gonzalez, Debbie Gonzalez, and Elizabeth Johnson-Kossick. The Mozersky residence, transformed into the House of Chanel Couture, set the tone for a most magnifique au revoir dinner. Merci to our outgoing copresidents and a heartfelt bienvenue (welcome) to our new members. S eattle Braiden Rex-Johnson In late July, we celebrated summer at the beachside home of Dorene CentioliMcTigue with a chili cookoff, games and swimming in Lake Sammamish; a heavily laden board of brats, dogs, sausages, and sides; and boozy shave ice. The Seattle Chapter’s Green Tables Committee held the first annual Afternoon on Vashon and Summer Supper in mid-August. Guests visited the Vashon Farmers Market, Palouse Winery, and La Biondo Farm & Kitchen followed by a farm-fresh dinner at Grande Dame Anne Willan signs books during a stop in Seattle the home of Green Tables while promoting her latest book, One Soufflé at a Time: A Chair Leslie Mackie. Mon- Memoir of Food and France. LDEI President Mary Ellen Griffin shares dinner at Steelhead Diner in the Pike Place Market with ies raised will be used to (L-R) Charles and Rose Ann Finkel, Spencer Johnson, Martha fund Green Tables grants, Marino and Braiden Rex-Johnson. which support farm-totable education programs at local schools and gardening organizations. In early September, Seattle Dames welcomed LDEI President Mary Ellen Griffin with a Hard-Cider and Artisan-Cheese Tasting at the Pike Pub, co-owned by Rose Ann Finkel and her husband, Charles. After the presentation, LDEI Board member Braiden Rex-Johnson and her husband, Spencer, hosted Griffin, the Finkels, and Martha Marino (Seattle Chapter past president and cider-and-cheese event organizer) for dinner at Steelhead Diner in the Pike Place Market. We held our Annual General Meeting at South Seattle Community College in late September, beginning with appetizers, student-produced wine, and a guided tour of the brand-new facilities of the Northwest Wine Academy. During dinner, outgoing president Molly Hancock passed the gavel to incoming president Anne Nisbet, and two of the chapter’s five newly selected Dames, Kari Leitch and Renee Erickson, were formally inducted. Les Dames d’Escoffier International Dames Inducted into Guilde des Fromagers and Confrerie of Saint-Uguzon By JeanMarie Brownson (Chicago) Nine Dames received one of the food world’s highest honors when they were inducted into the Guilde des Fromagers and Confrerie of Saint-Uguzon during the Austin Conference at the Hyatt Regency. The traditional ceremony, conducted in full regalia including robes, included a presentation of medals and certificates. Current Guilde President, Roland Barthelem, flew in from France to preside over the ceremony. Cathy Strange, Les Dames Austin chapter president and president of the New World Guilde representing Mexico, Canada, the United States and Australia, assisted. These Dames were inducted into the Guilde: Carrie Nahabedian, Alma Alcocer-Thomas, Cathy Cochran-Lewis, Iliana de la Vega, Roisin Kennedy, Sandra Hu, Paula Lambert, Molly O’Laughlin, and Marsha Palanci. Judith Schad, already a Guilde member, was promoted to the Maître Fromager Level. The Guilde has more than 5,600 members throughout the world including Europe, North America, Australia, and South America. The nonprofit Guilde Internationale des Fromagers was established to bring together leaders in the dairy sector. Pierre Androuet founded the Brotherhood of St. Uguzon in 1969 to impart knowledge through cheese companionship. The Guilde is open to professional cheese producers, processors, refiners, and commercial cheese retailers. The Brotherhood of St. Uguzon is open to restaurateurs and those working to promote the delicious world of cheese. Some have SUSTAINABILITY written into their brochures. WE have it written into our STATE CONSTITUTION. To learn more go to wildalaskaflavor.com W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 27 Congregation Beth Elohim, Park Slope, Brooklyn) to aid victims of Hurricane Sandy. More than 125,000 meals have been prepared and delivered with more than 2,800 volunteers involved. Compiled by Hayley Matson-Mathes (Hawaii) BOSTON Jody Adams and Lydia Shire were recently honored by Boston Medical Center at their 20th Anniversary Food for Thought dinner for their commitment to eradicating hunger among Boston kids. The event was held at the Mandarin Oriental Boston and attended by a record number of supporters and guests. Jody Adams Cleveland Bev Shaffer announces the release of Chocolate Desserts to Die For!, the newest of her To Die For! cookbook series. The book teaches home cooks how to craft any chocolate delight, from soufflés to brûlées, fondues to tarts. Recipes range from classic to more adventurous offerings. Lydia Shire Hawaii Joan Namkoong's newest cookbook, A Korean Kitchen: Traditional Recipes with an Island Twist, has just been released. Its focus is Korean food in Hawaii and how it differs from Korean food in Korea. www.mutualpublishing. com. Joan is the co-founder of the Farm Bureau’s Farmers Market, which recently celebrated its 10th year at Kapiolani Community College, Honolulu. Bev Shaffer Joan Namkoong NEW YORK Lidia Bastianich took home an Emmy at the 40th Annual Daytime Emmy Awards, for the Awards’ new category, “Outstanding Culinary Host.” Lidia, a world-renowned restaurateur and cookbook author, is host of the Public Broadcasting Service’s Lidia’s Italy. Rozanne Gold has shelved several books deals in order to create and run a satellite kitchen (at 28 Ursula Massoud and Rozanne Gold family celebrated Paumanok Vineyard’s 30th anniversary with a celebratory benefit dinner on September 28. They released their first sparkling wine, a 2009 Blanc de Blanc, made with Paumanok family-grown Chardonnay grapes. Paumanok Winery has also been nominated for a 2013 Wine Enthusiast Wine Star Award (American Winery of the Year). Hanna Lee has been nominated for four prestigious PR Week awards. Last year, her company, Hanna Lee Communications, won PR News' Platinum PR Award for "Best Branding." This year’s nominations are in four categories, including "Best Branding," "Best Media Relations," "Best Marketing Communications" and "WOW!," on behalf of her campaign for The Dead Rabbit Grocery and Grog, in lower Manhattan. Nora Favelukes, QW Wine Experts’ Owner and President, launched a new business venture: lnsiders’ VIP experiences, organizing visits to top international wine-making regions. The first trip is scheduled for March 2014, a unique opNora Favelukes portunity to go behind the scenes in her native Argentina, from Buenos Aires to Mendoza. Visit http://www.qwwineexperts.com/ Melanie Young, a breast-cancer survivor, foodand-wine marketing executive, and author of Getting Things Off My Chest: A Survivor's Guide to Staying Fearless and Fabulous in the Face of Breast Cancer, advocates for developing easy-to-maintain, healthy habits after treatment in her everydayhealth.com and greatist.com articles. Titles include, “Hydrate, Gyrate, Masticate: A Professional Foodie's Guide to Eating Well for Breast Cancer Recovery” and “Ten Ways I Stayed Fearless and Fabulous in the Face of Breast Cancer.” Shari Bayer, Bayer Public Relations, celebrated a 10-year-in-business milestone. The 10th anniversary party took place at the grand-opening of her new restaurant client, Whitman & Bloom Liquor Company, in Kips Bay, New York City. An article Shari Bayer about the festive occasion can be found at http://askmissa.com/2013/10/25/ whitman-bloom-liquor-company-opens-kips-baymanhattan/ NORTHEAST Denise Landis, longtime New York Times recipe tester, announces a new magazine, The Cook's Cook: A Magazine for Cooks, Food Writers & Recipe Testers. Denise will serve as the publisher and editor-in-chief of the ezine which is scheduled to launch February 3, 2014. The monthly magazine and weekly blog will be free to subscribers and supported by advertising. Sign up for the free magazine at http://app.streamsend.com/ public/9vosv1f35c/2CR/subscribe) SAN ANTONIO Karen Haram, Food/ Taste/Dining Editor at the San Antonio ExpressNews, received the “Best in the Country Award” for newspaper food coverage from the Association of Food Journalists at the group’s annual conference Karen Haram in Park City, Utah. The Taste section received the award in its circulation category for the third consecutive year. SAN DIEGO Janet Burgess was featured in the San Diego Union Tribune about her law- enforcement career. Almost 40 years ago, she was one of the first women patrol officers in San Diego. Her experiences included working undercover as a hooker. She took cooking classes, attended culinary school, and is now founder/owner of 4littleCOOKS Hands-on Cooking School. Kathy Strahs is proud to announce the release of The Ultimate Panini Press Cookbook, which features more than 200 innovative recipes for the panini press (Harvard Common Press, September 2013). She is also the author and photographer behind two popular food blogs, PaniniHappy.com and CookingOntheSide.com. SAN FRANCISCO Jeannette Ferrary was honored to have her Belmont Farmer’s Market photograph selected as the winner of the LDEI Green Tables Eating Real photo contest (see page 19). SEATTLE Jeannette Ferrary Cynthia Nims’s new cooking class, “French Home Cooking: The Essential Techniques,” recently went live on the website Craftsy. The series goes back to Cynthia’s French cooking-school roots at La Varenne, sharing many basic, core techniques through classic recipes ranging from salade verte to vanilla-bean ice cream. www.craftsy.com/essentialfrench_fp Marilyn Carlson has earned the Certified Food Scientist (CFS) credential from the International Food Science Certification Commission (IFSCC). The IFSCC oversees credentialing activities for the Institute of Food Technologists, the professional organization of the food-science community worldwide. Cynthia Nims Marilyn Carlson Jamie Peha, Deba Wegner, and chef Bridget Charters planned and implemented a Reserve Trade Mission for the U.S. Les Dames d’Escoffier International Potato Board and 30 international executive chefs and research-and-development directors from Asia and Mexico at the Art Institute of Seattle School of Culinary Arts. Restaurateur Thoa Nguyen was featured as a chef-presenter, cooking Pan-Asian dishes featuring potatoes. Nancy Lazara has joined Metropolitan Markets, a high-end grocery chain celebrating 40 years in Seattle. In her newly created position—Private Label Strategist—she oversees Metropolitan Markets’ own brand. Lazara’s background includes Starbucks Coffee and HEB in San Antonio, where she was instrumental in founding that Dames Chapter. Leslie Mackie, founder/co-owner of Macrina Bakery & Cafe, was the keynote speaker at the Women’s Business Exchange 35th anniversary dinner in September. WBE was founded in 1979 by Donna Nunn as a place for women to develop their leadership and business skills and to provide models of inspiring women business leaders. Linda Burner Augustine co-authored The Crimson Spoon cookbook featuring recipes from Jamie Callison, executive chef of the Washington State University Hospitality Business Management School. Augustine tested and wrote the recipes, designed for ease of use in the home kitchen, as well In Memoriam Grande Dame Marcella Hazan Best known for her six cookbooks, which she wrote in Italian and were translated into English by Victor, her husband of 57 years, Marcella Pollini Hazan taught generations of Americans how to create simple, fresh Italian food. She died September 30, 2013, at her home in Longboat Key, Fla., at age 89. Hazan was born in 1924 in Cesenatico in the Emilia-Romana region of Italy. She didn’t intend to be a professional cooking teacher or author; she graduated from the University of Ferrara with a doctorate in natural sciences and biology. But then she met Victor Hazan, who was born in Italy but raised in New York. They married in 1955 and moved to the U.S. At that time in New York, Italian food was still exotic, served in restaurants with straw-covered Chianti bottles and red-checked tablecloths. Hazan was a newlywed who did not speak English, transplanted to a country whose knowledge of her native cuisine was not much more than spaghetti covered with what, to her, tasted like overly spiced ketchup. In 1969, she began teaching Italian cooking classes from her New York City apartment that were as much about Italian culture and history as about food. She taught students that Italian cooking was really regional cooking, from the handmade noodles and meat sauce of Bologna to the fish and risotto of Venice and the linguine and clams of Naples. Those classes blossomed into a lifelong business of teaching. She and Victor opened a cooking school in Bologna, then in Venice, where classes took place in a 16th century palazzo with a custom-designed kitchen. Hazan’s 1973 cookbook, The Classic Italian Cookbook, led gourmands to draw comparisons between Hazan and another Grande Dame, Julia Child. The two women were longtime friends. In 2000, Hazan was awarded the James Beard Foundation Lifetime Achievement Award. “She was the first mother of Italian cooking in America,” said Lidia Bastianich, the New York restaurateur and television cooking personality. In 2004, Hazan wrote, “Simple doesn’t mean easy. I can describe simple cooking thus: Cooking that is stripped all the way down to those procedures and those ingredients indispensable in enunciating the sincere flavor intentions of a dish.” Hazan embraced simplicity, precision and balance in her cooking. She abhorred the overuse of garlic in much of what passed for Italian food in the United States, and would not suffer fools afraid of salt or the effort it took to find quality ingredients. The family took her ashes to a final resting place in her beloved village of Cesenatico. --CiCi Williamson W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 as collaborated with Callison on writing stories throughout the book. WASHINGTON, D.C. Bonnie Benwick, Deputy Food Editor, and Joe Yonan, Food Editor, The Washington Post, won third prize for “Best Newspaper Food Coverage for Papers above 200,000 Circulation” from the Association of Food Journalists. Bonnie Benwick Alma Lach A true Dame of Distinction, the talented and treasured Alma Lach died on October 21, 2013. She was a founder of the Chicago Chapter. Born in Petersburg, Illinois, in 1914, and raised on a 600-acre farm downstate in New Salem, Alma shared household duties with her sister, more often than not cooking the family's meals. "There was a hen house and we had eggs and a cow for butter and buttermilk. I could make anything I wanted and did on a wood-burning cook stove,” she said. She even won a prize for a dish in a 4-H contest. Majoring in Home Economics at the University of Chicago, she met her future husband, the historian Donald F. Lach, married, and then when Donald was awarded a Guggenheim in 1949, they went off to Paris with their small daughter Sandy. Suggesting that perhaps there was more to cooking than pan gravy, Donald encouraged Alma to enroll in the formal three-year culinary degree program at the Cordon Bleu. By 1956 she had clocked enough hours to be awarded a Grande Diplome. Also during those Paris years, which were interrupted by occasional periods in the States, she published A Child’s First Cookbook (1950) and three more children’s cookbooks for Campbell. And she was an early TV personality; creator, producer, and performer of the show “Let’s Cook” the first cooking show for children. Everything she wrote--from those early forays into children's cookbooks, to her Sunday and Friday columns in the Chicago Sun Times (where she served as the food editor from 1957 to 1965), to her frequent local and national TV appearances and the monthly newsletter Alma's Almanac--led to Cooking a la Cordon Bleu, (1970), and, ultimately, to her monumental Hows and Whys of French Cooking (1974), the first cookbook to be published by the University of Chicago Press. Since 1985 she has been traveling, developing, and testing recipes for the Hows and Whys of Chinese Cooking and developing the art of electronically scanning examples of Asian food carving and garnishing. During her long and impressive career, Alma Lach has been named a Chevalier du Tastevin in Dijon, and she has garnered many other awards and honors, but her membership in Les Dames since 1982 remained one of her ongoing loyalties. She was and will always be thought of as a professional’s professional, a mentor and friend. She will be missed. --Joan Reardon 29 GLOBAL CULINARY post cards LEDI Ad 2013-Final 8/29/13 12:15 PM Page 1 The Burma Road to Flavor B y G ai l Fo rm an .) (Was h in gt on , D .C known among the least well Burmese cooking is United e Asian cuisines in th and least appreciated ed at Burma States. Dames and guests din rhood and learned about the On November 7, 36 ighbo lly known as gton’s Chinatown ne of, the country officia Restaurant in Washin ry to his lar cu rti pa d , an culinary influences on is distinct cuisine. the th d ate cre at the ethnic diversity of th ar nm Mya Thailand, as well as d e an th , of dia er In a, wn in -o co Ch The cooking of chen. John Tinpe, usual flavors ed to the Burmese kit population, contribut smatic guide to the un ari ch a s wa e, Jan r, othe cuisine. restaurant with his m at make up Burmese lly eaten for th s he dis of ty rie va inga, a fish soup usua and oh M h,” dis al on ati “n e a dish unique th e, ok ed nc Th salad, Lahpet Diners experie f ea a-l -te en gre ter ed with cabbage ghtly bit en-tea leaves combin breakfast, and the sli gre ted en d m fer d, rte impo ger, green papaya, an to Burma. Made of salads (including gin y an m e th of e on and fried pulses, it’s htful. Burmese meal so delig , and Chicken with Sour Cabbage noodle) that make a go rk with Pickled Man conut-Semolina Vegetable Fritters, Po th a dessert trio of Co wi ed lud nc co ich wh l, cream. We all went rounded out the mea em “pearls”), and ice -st lm pa ed ok (co g and new flavors. Cake, Sago Puddin ced to unique dishes du tro in g in be t ou away excited ab CertifiCate in Culinary or Baking & Pastry arts America‘s Favorite Rice You can always depend on Mahatma Rice for Great Taste, Texture, and Flavor! mahatmarice.com 100% online & self-Paced Classes live interactive Webinars affordable online Culinary Program available in spanish Classes inspired by the legendary Auguste Escoffier – one of the most prestigious names in the culinary world, known as the Father of Modern Cuisine. For more information, call 855-696-6602 or visit www.escoffieronline.com. 30 Les Dames d’Escoffier International California Figs Simply Beautiful | Simply Delicious California dried figs are available year round, while fresh figs are available mid-May through December. Deadlines 2014 Spring issue - January 15, 2014 | 2014 summer issue - April 15, 2014 2014 FALL issue - August 4, 2014 | 2015 WINTER ISSUE – November 7, 2014 Photography/Images Electronic images must be properly focused and in color with a minimum resolution of 300 dpi (TIFF or JPEG). Cell phone photos are acceptable if they meet resolution requirements. Do not send photos taken off the Internet or embedded with text in Word files or PDF files. Please identify individuals in photos from left to right in the message of your email. Include photo credits, if required, and captions. ALL PHOTOGRAPHS MUST COME WITH CAPTIONS TO BE PUBLISHED. Member Milestones LIST DAME’S NAME and XXX CHAPTER. Each Dame may submit up to 50 words about honors or important business-related activities, as preferred, to appear in print. You may email a quality headshot to accompany your news. Press releases and cookbook covers are not accepted. (Cookbook covers are accepted for the LDEI website.) Email your Member Milestone and photo to MM Editor, Hayley Matson-Mathes at [email protected] by the deadline listed above. Entries received after these dates may appear in a following issue. Photos of Dames networking at conferences or other chapter events may also be sent to this section. Chapter News CHAPTER XX (By, the submitter's name, office or title, if any). Each Chapter may submit 250 words as you would like to see it in print. You may include photos to accompany your news, noting photography requirements above. Submissions that exceed the word count will be edited. (A lengthy submission on a special chapter event could be considered for a feature; contact the editor in advance.) Press releases are not accepted. We regret we don't have space to print full menus but menu items can be included in the copy. Submissions not conforming to this format may not be printed due to deadlines and volunteer’s lack of time. Email to Janet Burgess at [email protected] by the deadline date. Entries received after this date may appear in the following issue. E-Newsletter This bi-monthly publication will keep you informed about events in other chapters and encourages networking. Press releases are not accepted. Include an email contact, date, time, cost for chapter events. Lack of space prevents member milestones, product news, listing of cooking classes or tours. You will receive a reminder call for “e-news” email. Respond to Helen Roberts at [email protected]. Waldorf Salad with California Figs POSTCARD VIEWS OF THE GLOBAL CULINARY INITIATIVE If your chapter is involved with culinary programs and community activities that cross cultural barriers and exemplify the spirit of the Global Culinary Initiative, send a 200-word description of your event with photos. WE BeLOnG (page 21) features excerpts of insightful, relevant content from Dame’s personal blogs or chapter websites. Be a guest blogger and tell us what’s on your mind! Send inquiries to [email protected] or [email protected]. Upcoming in the spring issue W I N T E R Q u arterly 2 0 1 4 Excellent source of Dietary Fiber Fat, Cholesterol and Sodium Free • Winners of the 2013 Legacy Awards share their experiences • The LDEI Board convenes in Miami • Update on the Global Culinary Initiative • Introducing the 2014 Board For delicious recipes and more information visit: www.californiafigs.com Find us on Facebook 31 Atlanta Austin Birmingham Boston British Columbia, Canada Charleston Chicago Cleveland/Northeast Ohio Colorado Dallas Hawaii Houston Kansas City/Heart of America London, England Los Angeles/Orange County Miami Minneapolis/St. Paul Monterey Bay Area New York Northeast Palm Springs Philadelphia Phoenix San Antonio San Diego San Francisco Seattle St. Louis Washington, DC Win $500 or $1000! PREsorted First Class u s Postage paid Louisville KY Permit #1051 P.O. Box 4961 Louisville, KY 40204 enter ldei’s updated m.f.k. fisher award contest Deadline 3.31 2014 In 2012, more than 80 women entered LDEI’s M.F.K. Fisher Award for Excellence in Culinary Writing. Until now, the awards were in one general category with a first, second, and third place award presented biennially in even-numbered years. In July, the LDEI Board made the competition a yearly contest with three major category winners: 1. Culinary Books 2. Print media (magazine and newspaper food stories) 3. Internet-based food articles or blogs Each category winner will receive $500. The overall winner will receive an additional $500 to total $1000 plus a trip to Boston to receive her award at the LDEI Annual Conference on Saturday, November 1, 2014, at the Royal Sonesta Hotel Boston, Cambridge Mass. In a further advancement, entries may now be submitted online to LDEI. The fee per entry is $25, and entries are due by March 31, 2014. For more information, go to www.ldei.org or send an email to [email protected].