Autumn indulgence - epiphany | society

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GOURMET
Autumn
indulgence
C o m f o r t food gets g l a m o r o u s
L u x e p a n c a k e s 8c p i k e l e t s ,
•erfect pho, hot c h i c k p e a s
I
I
LONDON'S
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WHERE TO EAT,
DRINK, STAY & PLAY
IN STOPOVER
CENTRAL
OUR M A N
I N PARIS
JAMES HENRY'S
NEW BISTRO
Chocolate-caramel
crepe cake
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BIG KITCHEN SPECIAL
DREAM DESIGNS, THE NO-BUILD RENO & TABLETOP TREATS
H O W T O M A K E THE MOST O F SMALL SPACES
APPLIANCE UPDATE: SMART BUYS FOR THE SAVVY COOK
gourmetnews
COMPACT DISCS
Shake up your weeknight
dinners with croxetti, a stamped
pasta from Liguria traditionally
served with pesto. Venturino's
500gm bags are $10.50 from
Enoteca Sileno. enoteca.com.au
Bearing gifts
DINNERWARE:
Society linen
Porcelain
tablecloth from
dinnerware
Ondene. All other
by Greek
props stylist's own.
b r a n d Ionia.
Stockists p209.
D Y N A M I C CERAMICS
H e r e a r e s o m e G r e e k p l a t e s y o u w o n ' t b e s m a s h i n g in a hurry. N a p o l e o n
Perdis is b r i n g i n g his f a v o u r i t e G r e c i a n d i n n e r w a r e t o o u r s h o r e s via his
Life.Style, t h e b o u t i q u e h e o p e n e d in W o o l l a h r a p o s t o f f i c e in S y d n e y in
2 0 1 2 . " I o n i a w a s o n e o f t h e first b r a n d s w e k n e w w e w a n t e d t o b r i n g t o
A u s t r a l i a a n d s h a r e w i t h o u r c u s t o m e r s , " t h e m a k e - u p m o g u l says. "It's o n e
of the oldest and most established Greek dinnerware brands. They d o fine
p o r c e l a i n , everyday crockery, glassware a n d flatware, a n d a range o f d e s i g n s
t h a t are m i n i m a l o r classic, a n d d e s i g n s t h a t a r e m o r e f a s h i o n - f o r w a r d . "
What's m o r e , Ionia w o n ' t break t h e b a n k , w i t h p i e c e s starting at $25.
"It's i n c r e d i b l e in q u a l i t y , w i t h g r e a t t o u c h e s o f d e t a i l a n d it's really a f f o r d a b l e , '
h e says, napoleonperdis.com
MAYA KERTHYASA
PARISI
B A T H W A R E
pansi.com.au
CHEFS' RECIPES
Fare exchange
Recipes you've requested f r o m Australia's l e a d i n g chefs.
O M B R A Braised intercostal 3am b u t t e r m i l k rolls
P R I N T H A L L C a u l i f l o w e r a n d cheese w i t h g n o c c h i , raisins
and dandelion
N U N U Red c u r r y reef fish, p i c k l e d p r a w n s a n d y o u n g c o c o n u t
T H E W O O D S Rhubarb and ricotta tart
For more recipes visitgourmettraveller.com.au.
rART: Plates
from
and
\frican Trading Port.
from Royal Doulton.'
Society napkins from
All other props stylist's,
Dndene.
own. Stockists p209.
ROLLS: M o d e
ivooden tray ,
paper and set aside until d o u b l e d in size
(30 minutes). Preheat oven t o 205C. Brush
rolls with eggwash and bake until golden
(15-17 minutes), then set aside to cool.
3 For coleslaw, combine cabbage and
parsley in a large b o w l . Whisk vinegar
and horseradish in a bowl, add oil in a thin
steady stream, whisking continuously until
incorporated, then season to taste. Drizzle
onto cabbage, toss t o combine and set aside.
4 For crisp shallots, heat oil in a deep
saucepan to 180C. Dust shallot in flour,
shaking off excess, and deep-fry in batches,
stirring occasionally, until golden (30 seconds1 minute). Drain well on absorbent paper.
5 Halve rolls and fill with beef, coleslaw and
crisp shallots, season to taste and serve.
N o t e Beef intercostal meat, or rib fingers,
is cut from between ribs; it's available from
select butchers. You may need to order ahead.
"I'd love the recipe for Print Hall's cauliflower
and gnocchi dish; it's delicious."
Lucinda Grey, Peppermint Grove, W A
C a u l i f l o w e r a n d cheese w i t h
g n o c c h i , raisins a n d d a n d e l i o n
"/ have a new weakness: Guy Grossi's intercostal
3am rolls at Ombra. Please print the recipe."
A n t h o n y Liew, St Kilda, Vic
Braised intercostal
b u t t e r m i l k rolls
3am
The rolls are baked at 3am at Ombra, hence the name.
Prep time 1 hr, cook 5 hrs (plus proving, cooling)
Makes 12 (pictured p46)
60 ml (VA cup) olive oil
300 g m beef intercostals (see note)
2 golden shallots, finely chopped
1 carrot, finely chopped
/2 celery stalk, finely chopped
1
2
1
250
1
5
290
190
60
1V2
VA
garlic cloves, finely chopped
rosemary sprig
ml red wine
litre veal stock, plus extra as needed
3am b u t t e r m i l k rolls
g m (1 % tsp) dried yeast
g m bread flour
ml buttermilk, warmed
ml {VA cup) canola oil
tbsp caster sugar
tsp baking powder
V2 e g g and 1 tbsp milk, for eggwash
Coleslaw
60 g m each red cabbage and white cabbage,
finely shaved on a mandolin
1 tbsp coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
1 tsp finely grated horseradish
70 ml extra-virgin olive oil
48
Crisp shallots
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
3 golden shallots, thinly sliced
on a mandolin
Plain flour, for dusting
1 Heat 40ml oil in a large saucepan over
medium-high heat. A d d beef and cook,
turning occasionally, until browned (3-5
minutes), then transfer t o a plate. A d d shallot,
carrot, celery, garlic, rosemary and remaining
oil t o pan and stir occasionally until tender
(5-7 minutes). Return beef to pan, add wine
and simmer until reduced by half (15-20
minutes). A d d 1 litre stock, reduce heat to low
and simmer until beef is very tender (316-4
hours; if liquid reduces t o o much, add a little
extra stock). Remove beef, increase heat to
medium-high and reduce liquid until thick
(30-35 minutes). Shred beef (discard sinew)
and return t o pan, stir t o combine, season
t o taste, then set aside.
2 For 3am buttermilk rolls, stir yeast and
35ml warm water in a large bowl t o combine
and set aside until foamy. A d d flour, buttermilk,
oil, sugar, baking powder and 1 tsp sea salt
flakes and mix t o a dough. Transfer to a work
surface and knead until smooth and elastic
(8-10 minutes). Place in a lightly greased bowl,
turn t o coat, cover with plastic wrap and set
aside until doubled in size (1-1% hours). Knock
back dough, divide and roll into 12 balls. Place
4cm apart on oven trays lined with baking
Prep time 1 hr, cook 2 hrs, 20 mins (plus soaking)
Serves 6
50 g m golden raisins or raisins
50 ml Earl Grey tea
200 gm cauliflower, cut into florets
30 ml extra-virgin olive oil
100 gm butter, coarsely chopped
25 g m salted baby capers, rinsed
75 g m almonds, coarsely chopped
Juice of V2 lemon
2 tbsp finely chopped chives
1 cup (loosely packed) baby dandelion
leaves or baby rocket, to serve
450
140
35
IV2
Thinly shaved Pecorino Romano, to serve
Gnocchi
g m royal blue potatoes, coarsely chopped
g m plain flour
g m Pecorino Romano, finely grated
eggs, lightly beaten
Olive oil, for drizzling
Cauliflower puree
50 g m butter, coarsely chopped
2
1
600
2
750
golden shallots, thinly sliced
garlic clove, thinly sliced
gm cauliflower, cut into florets
thyme sprigs
ml (3 cups) milk
80 g m goat's curd
1 For gnocchi, cook potato in a saucepan
of boiling salted water until tender (25-30
minutes), drain well and press through a
potato ricer. A d d flour and pecorino and
gently mix t o combine, add e g g , stir t o just
combine, season t o taste and knead gently
to bring together (do not overwork). Divide
dough into thirds and, working with a piece
at a time (cover remainder t o keep warm), roll
on a floured surface to a 2cm-diameter cylinder,
gourmettraveller.com.au
PERFECT MATCH
CHICKEN: Glasses,
Aria plate (right) and
bowl from Papaya.
1 long green chilli, finely c h o p p e d
Society place-
5 g m (1cm piece) ginger, finely chopped
Vi cup (loosely packed) coriander,
coarsely c h o p p e d
M i n t chutney
Vh cups (loosely packed) mint leaves
Vi tbsp tamarind concentrate mixed
with 40ml water, strained
from Ondene A
other props stylist's
own. Stodtfsts p209.
2 tbsp finely c h o p p e d Spanish onion
1 garlic clove, finely c h o p p e d
5 g m (1cm piece) ginger, finely chopped
1 long green chilli, thinly sliced
Vi tsp caster sugar
1 For spiced yoghurt marinade, process
ingredients (except oil) in a f o o d processor
until a paste forms, then stir in oil.
Aged whites w i t h
spicy c h i c k e n
A w h i t e r i c h i n vinosity, fresh w i t h a c i d i t y a n d m a t u r e f r o m
a five-year s l u m b e r is M a x Allen's choice for t h i s spicy c h o o k .
We are very lucky i n this country.
I n d i a n - s p i c e d roast c h i c k e n
Well, those who like their white wines w i t h
You'll need t o begin this recipe a day ahead to
some bottle age are, at least. A number of
our best wineries lay down some of their best
whites each vintage to be released five, even 10
years later, when the wines have transformed
marinate the chicken.
Prep time 45 mins, cook 1 hr 50 mins
(plus marinating, cooling, resting, soaking)
Serves 6
1 chicken (about 1.8kg)
from light, flighty, nervy young things into
mature, rounded, far more satisfying drinks.
Some winemakers
provide this cellaring
service with quantities large enough that when
the wines do emerge from their dark slumber,
they're widely available at very attractive prices.
A bottle-aged semillon, riesling or marsanne is
exactly what you need for this spicy, fragrant
dish, as they have heady aroma, rich vinosity
and refreshing acidity. The wine's grapy texture
is matched with the dense flesh of the chook
and spuds; its citrusy perfume and acidity will
take care of the chilli, coriander and yoghurt;
and its bottle-aged toasty characters will echo
the earthiness of the turmeric.
54
150
Vi
3
15
Yi
Steamed rice, thinly sliced long green
chillies and shallow-fried fresh curry leaves
(optional), t o serve
Spiced y o g h u r t marinade
ml Greek-style yoghurt
onion, finely c h o p p e d
garlic cloves, c h o p p e d
g m (3cm piece) ginger, finely c h o p p e d
tsp each ground turmeric, ground chilli
and ground cayenne pepper
VA tsp garam masala
60 ml {VA cup) olive oil
P o t a t o and g i n g e r stuffing
200 g m Dutch cream potatoes
85 g m frozen peas, defrosted
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 Place chicken in a non-reactive container,
rub all over with marinade and refrigerate
overnight for flavours t o develop.
3 For potato and ginger stuffing, place
potato and enough cold salted water t o just
cover in a saucepan over medium-high heat
and boil until tender (15-18 minutes). Drain
well, set aside t o cool, coarsely chop and
set aside. Blanch peas until bright green
(30 seconds; see cook's notes p210), refresh
and set aside. Heat oil in a frying pan, a d d
onion and stir occasionally until translucent
(5-6 minutes). A d d chilli and fry until fragrant
(1 minute). A d d potato and cook until golden
(7-10 minutes). A d d ginger, season t o taste, set
aside t o cool, then stir in peas and coriander.
4 Preheat oven t o 220C. Stuff potato and
ginger stuffing into chicken cavity, truss legs
and roast until just golden (20 minutes). Cover
with foil, reduce heat t o 160C and roast until
almost cooked through (30 minutes). Remove
foil, cook until golden and cooked through (20
minutes), then set aside t o rest (15 minutes).
5 For mint chutney, process ingredients in
a f o o d processor and season t o taste.
6 Scatter rice with chilli and curry leaves and
serve with chicken and mint c h u t n e y *
THREE OF THE BEST
2007 PEWSEY VALE THE CONTOURS
RIESLING, EDEN VALLEY, SA, S29.95
Named after the oldest vines on t h e property,
this is one of the best bargains in Australian
white wine - complex, intense, refined and
delicious dry riesling.
2007 PETER L E H M A N N MARGARET
SEMILLON, BAROSSA VALLEY, SA, $32
This wine levels a very convincing challenge
at the feet of the Hunter Valley, semillon's
traditional heartland. It's lemony, rich and
creamy textured.
2003 TAHBILK 1927 VINES MARSANNE,
NAGAMBIE, VIC, $45
Different from the " n o r m a l " Tahbilk marsanne
(which also ages very well in bottle), this is
leaner, more chalky and savoury. A t 10 years
old, it's still g o t lovely fresh green grapy fruit.
Stockists p209
gourmettraveller.com.au
CLASSIC DISH
MA PO DOU
Mode bowl from
Royal Doulton.
to bring out the flavour and fragrance before
adding stock."
Society table runner
from Ondene. Votive
Use the freshest spices you can find for
best results, and enough chilli so that the
heat lingers on the palate, but not so much
that you can no longer taste the other flavours.
A good ma po doufu should have a harmonious
balance of saltiness, sweetness and heat: get
this balance right and we guarantee this staple
of Sichuan cuisine will soon be one of yours too.
from Papaya. All
other props stylist's
own. Stockists p209.
/
M a po d o u f u
Prep time 25 mins, cook 15 mins
Serves 4
600
150
1
2
3/2
1
g m tofu, cut into 3cm cubes
ml chicken stock
tbsp Shaoxing wine (see note)
tsp soy sauce
tbsp hot chilli broad bean paste
(see note)
2 tsp fermented soy beans (see note),
finely chopped
Pinch of chilli powder, or t o taste
1 tsp cornflour
60 ml (Vi cup) vegetable oil
150 g m minced beef
2 tsp Sichuan peppercorns, plus extra
(optional), dry-roasted until fragrant
(20-30 seconds; see cook's notes p210),
crushed in a mortar and pestle, to serve
3 garlic cloves, finely c h o p p e d
10 g m (2cm piece) ginger, finely c h o p p e d
1 tsp caster sugar
Vi bunch garlic chives, cut into 3cm batons
Steamed rice, to serve
M a po doufu
Fiery, n u m b i n g , salty a n d sweet, t h i s Sichuan dish o f h u m b l e
o r i g i n is t o d a y a w o r l d w i d e h i t , w r i t e s M a y a Kerthyasa.
It's w a r m , s i l k e n a n d a r o m a t i c ,
so it's surprising to hear that this Sichuan
classic means pock-marked grandmother's
beancurd when translated to English. Legend
has it that the dish was first made during the
Qing Dynasty by a smallpox-scarred nanna
(known as Mother Chen) who made the dish for
labourers. While the name may be surprising,
the popularity of the dish is not: it would
have been just the ticket for hungry workers
on the move. And today this comforting dish
of smooth beancurd, fiery chilli, numbing
Sichuan peppercorns and minced beef is one
of the most-widely recognised Sichuan dishes
in China and around the world.
Being a poor man's dish, original versions
of ma po doufu were made with off-cuts of beef,
56
hence the mincing of the meat, but today you'll
also find some recipes with pork.
The ratio of meat to beancurd varies from
recipe to recipe; however, Tony Tan, GTs
contributor and authority on Asian food,
recommends around five parts beancurd to
one part meat. But while beancurd is a key
ingredient, it plays a neutral role - acting as
a carrier for the other components and
flavours of the dish.
"It shouldn't have a strong tofu taste," says
Ye Shao, owner of standard-setting Melbourne
restaurant Dainty Sichuan, "but a taste more
of chilli and Sichuan pepper, blended or mixed
with the broad bean paste and minced meat.
To achieve this, it's important to stir-fry
the broad bean paste with the minced meat
1 Cook t o f u in a saucepan of simmering
water over medium heat until warmed
through (5 minutes), drain well and set aside.
2 Meanwhile, combine stock, Shaoxing wine
and soy sauce in a jug and set aside.
3 Combine hot chilli broad bean paste,
fermented soy beans and chilli powder in
a bowl and set aside.
4 Mix cornflour with 1 tsp water in a small
bowl to form a paste and set aside.
5 Heat oil in a large frying pan over high
heat. A d d beef and stir-fry until browned
(2-3 minutes). A d d bean paste mixture and
crushed Sichuan pepper and stir-fry until
starting t o caramelise (1-2 minutes). Reduce
heat to medium, add garlic and ginger and stir
to combine (1-2 minutes). A d d tofu, then stock
mixture and bring to the simmer. Carefully stir
in cornflour paste and sugar, bring to the
simmer and simmer until sauce thickens
(3-4 minutes). Stir in chives, divide among
serving bowls, scatter with extra Sichuan
pepper and serve hot with steamed rice.
N o t e Shaoxing wine, hot chilli broad bean
paste (also known as doubanjiang) and
fermented soy beans (aka black beans) are
available from Asian grocers. If hot chilli
broad bean paste is unavailable, substitute
chilli soy bean p a s t e . *
gourmettraveller.com.au
1 "Assiette" entree plates, $25 each, Pillivuyt. 2 Vintage forks, $6 each, The Bay Tree, and steak knives, $3.50 each, Tablekraft. 3 Oil bottle, $24.95,
Koskela. 4 "Fusion CS5" copper roasting pan, $359, Scanpan. 5 Scissors with leather cover, $14.95, Paper 2, and oven mit, $27, Chefs' Warehouse.
6 " O to G o " stemless white wine glass, $24.95, Riedel. 7 Society apron, $163, Ondene. 8 Twine, $15, Elements I Love. 9 Chef's knife, $399 for a
seven-piece cutlery block set, Mundial. 10 Chopping board, $295, Quintessential Duck Egg Blue. 11 Copper colander, $85, Koskela. 12 "Acacia"
salt and pepper mill set, $29.95, Maxwell & Williams. 13 Italian confit pot, $350, Quintessential Duck Egg Blue, and utensils, $2.50-$5.50 each,
Chefs' Warehouse. All other props stylist's own. Stockists p209.>
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