Panama guidebook

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Panama
WHAT’ S WH E R E
PANAMA CITY
Panama City is an obligatory stop, and a surprisingly pleasant hub for exploring the country, since international flights
arrive here, and daily domestic flights, ferries, and buses
depart from here. It is a vibrant and diverse metropolis with
excellent dining, lodging, and nightlife, and an abundance
of day-trip options. The brick streets and balconies of the
Casco Viejo old quarter evoke southern France, but the skyline of the new city looks more like that of Chicago. The
restaurants and marinas of the Calzada de Amador feel like
Miami, but next to them is the unmistakable Panama Canal,
and nearby is a rain forest where you can see monkeys,
sloths, and tropical birds.
THE CANAL & CENTRAL
PANAMA
Between them, the Panama Canal and Central Panama have
everything from jungle-lined waterways to gorgeous beaches
and misty mountain forests. This region holds an array of
landscapes and attractions in a relatively small area, much
of which can be explored on day trips from Panama City. It
also has overnight options in wild and beautiful places where
you may wake up to parrot squawks or the sound of waves
washing against the shore. The Panama Canal is the region’s
biggest attraction, literally, and it can be admired from half
a dozen vantage points or navigated on day trips that cost a
fraction of what a cruise does. Nearby, several national parks
shelter exuberant forests, Caribbean coral reefs, indigenous
villages, colonial fortresses, dozens of idyllic islands, and the
splendid mountain scenery of El Valle de Antón. This region
also holds some of the country’s best bird-watching, river
rafting, hiking, golf, kayaking, fishing, horseback riding, and
scuba diving.
THE AZUERO
PENINSULA &
VERAGUAS
The country’s cultural cradle, home to ageless towns and colorful folk festivals, this region also has some of Panama’s best
surf and scuba diving. Few foreigners make it here, but those
who do are rewarded by rich folklore, colonial churches,
remote beaches, and varied marine life. Playa Venado and
Playa Santa Catalina have some of Panama’s best surf,
whereas Isla de Coiba has some of the best diving in the eastern Pacific, and the more accessible Isla Iguana is comparably
impressive.
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CHIRIQUÍ PROVINCE
The western province of Chiriquí stretches from the peaks of
the Talamanca Mountains southward to the islands that lie
in the Golfo de Chiriquí, comprising everything from cloud
forest to coral reefs, and white-water rivers to white-sand
beaches. World-class surfing, river rafting, sportfishing, birdwatching, skin diving, and hiking make Chiriquí a destination meant for lovers of the great outdoors. But the refreshing
climate and breathtaking scenery of its mountain valleys also
make them excellent places to hang out and admire the hummingbirds, boulder-strewn rivers, and frequent rainbows.
Some of the country’s best lodges and restaurants take advantage of the province’s scenery and provide comfortable access
to its diverse flora and fauna.
BOCAS DEL TORO
ARCHIPELAGO
The Bocas del Toro Archipelago holds an impressive mix of
beaches, jungle, idyllic cays, and coral reefs. The archipelago’s dozens of islands are surrounded by turquoise waters
and lined with pristine strands that provide access to great
skin diving or surfing, according to the season. The provincial
capital of Bocas del Toro is a funky Caribbean town where
boats and bicycles outnumber cars, hotels are perched over
the water on pilings, and the dinner selection ranges from
lobster fettuccine to chicken curry. Beyond it are countless
acres of coral, indigenous villages, pristine beaches, and
ecolodges where you may see a monkey from your porch,
or a manta ray.
KUNA YALA (SAN BLAS)
AND THE DARIÉN
The eastern provinces of Kuna Yala and the Darién are Panama at its wildest, where every trip is an adventure. Kuna
Yala, home of the Kuna Indians, is known for the San Blas
Islands, with their immaculate beaches and vibrant coral reefs.
Since all hotels there are Kuna owned and lie near villages, a
trip includes ample exposure to their indigenous culture. The
Darién is known for its wildlife, which includes many species
found nowhere else in the country, but it is also holds dozens of Emberá and Wounaan Indian villages, some of which
accommodate visitors. The Darién also has the country’s best
sportfishing, and one of the world’s top fishing lodges.
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Panama
QUINTESSENT IA L
PANAMA
The Big Ditch
A century has passed since its completion,
but the Panama Canal remains an impressive feat of engineering, not to mention
a simply inspiring sight. There are various spots from which you can admire
the “Big Ditch,” and watching a giant
cargo ship float under the Bridge of the
Americas or slide into a massive lock is an
unforgettable experience. The best way to
appreciate it, however, is on one of the
regular transit tours, which take you
through locks and the canal’s narrowest stretch. The canal’s forests are home
to plenty of wildlife, so you can also get
onto its waters on a nature tour, such as
the trip to Barro Colorado Nature Monument, or by fishing for the peacock bass
that inhabit its depths.
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Wild Things
Panama has an amazing array of wildlife
and is a remarkably easy place to experience the diversity of tropical nature.
Its capital, Panama City, lies near some
of the world’s most accessible rain forest, with several parks that you can reach
in less than an hour from downtown. In
fact, you can see keel-billed toucans, blueheaded parrots, and several simian species
within city limits. The eastern province of
the Darién is even wilder, home to such
rare animals as harpy eagles, jaguars, and
four types of macaw. And the country’s
coastal waters are comparably diverse,
with hundreds of fish species, sea turtles,
spotted dolphins, and humpback whales.
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Quintessential Panama
Idyllic Isles
Panamanian waters hold more than 1,600
islands, ranging from vast Isla del Rey to
tiny cays topped with a few palm trees,
like the castaway isles depicted in comics. The closest islands to Panama City
are historic Isla Taboga, and Isla Contadora, a mere 20-minute flight away from
the city, which has a dozen beaches and
nearby isles that were featured on “Survivor Pearl Islands.” To the northeast are
the San Blas Islands, home of the fascinating Kuna Indians, with white-sand cays
ringed by coral reefs. The Bocas del Toro
Archipelago, to the west, has comparable
island scenery and marine life, and better accommodations. Less accessible Isla
Iguana, Isla de Coiba, and the private
archipelago of Islas Secas have some of
the best diving in the eastern Pacific, plus
great beaches. To leave Panama without
visiting at least one island would be criminal; actually you could feasibly spend
your entire trip island hopping.
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Cultural Cornucopia
Panama is a human rainbow. Though
the indigenous peoples represent only six
percent of the population, the country’s
Kuna, Emberá, Wounaan, and NgöbeBuglé Indians have fascinating traditions
that they happily share with visitors.
The folk music and dances of the Latino
majority are on display at colorful rural
festivals and several Panama City venues
all year long. Meanwhile, the country’s
European, African, Middle Eastern, and
Asian immigrants ensure that you’ll find
a rich variety of cuisines and interesting neighborhoods to explore just about
everywhere you go.
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Panama
IF YOU L IK E
Adventure Sports
The options for enjoying Panama’s great
outdoors range from hiking through the
cloud forest to paddling down a whitewater river. The country’s world-class
fishing, surfing, diving, and bird-watching draw plenty of people focused on just
one activity, but Panama is also a great
destination for travelers who want to
dabble in several adventure sports.
Rafting. The Chagres and Chiriquí Viejo
Rivers have exciting white-water rafting routes that pass through pristine rain
forest. From June to December they are
complemented by half a dozen smaller
rivers near Boquete.
Hiking. Panama’s hiking options range
from short walks into the rain forest
near Panama City to longer hikes though
the mountains above El Valle de Antón,
Boquete, or Cerro Punta, to a two-week
trek through the jungles of the Darién.
Surfing. With dozens of surf spots on
two oceans, Panama has waves most of
the year. Expert-only reef breaks are the
norm, but a handful of beach breaks are
good for neophytes too. Try Playa Venado,
Playa Santa Catalina, Morro Negrito,
Bocas del Toro, and Isla Grande.
Kayaking. Sit-on-top kayaks are available
at many lodges for exploring reefs and
mangroves, but serious kayakers can join
tours by the outfitter Xtrop to paddle the
lower Chagres River, the Panama Canal’s
Pacific entrance, or the San Blas Islands.
Horseback Riding. Equestrian tours can
take you through the mountain forests of
Cerro Azul, El Valle de Antón, Boquete,
Volcán, or Cerro Punta, the tropical dry
forests of the Azuero Peninsula, or the
rain forest of Bocas del Toro.
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History
The site of the first Spanish colony on the
American mainland, Panama has remnants of five centuries of European influence, including ancient fortresses, a dozen
colonial churches, and indigenous cultures
that have hardly changed since Columbus
sailed down the country’s coast.
Panama Viejo. The ruins of Panama’s first
city—founded almost five centuries ago,
and sacked by the pirate Henry Morgan
in 1671—evoke the nation’s start as a
trade center.
Casco Viejo. Panama City’s historic quar-
ter holds an enchanting mix of colonial
churches, abandoned monasteries, 19thcentury buildings, and timeless plazas
that are perfect for a drink, or meal.
Portobelo. Together with nearby Fuerte
San Lorenzo, these colonial fortresses
hemmed by jungle and perched over
aquamarine waters are stunning reminders of the days when pirates cruised the
Caribbean in search of booty.
The Azuero Peninsula. With their colonial
churches, timeless plazas, and adobe
homes, the Azuero Peninsula’s older
towns are time capsules where the past
comes alive during religious holidays and
folk festivals.
The Canal. The Panama Canal’s creation
only a century ago was a historic event
that is celebrated by displays in the visitor
center at Miraflores Locks and murals in
the Canal Administration Building.
Nature Lodges
With more than 960 bird species, 9,000
kinds of flowering plants, and such rare
animals as tapirs and ocelots, Panama is a
great place for nature lovers. And there’s
no better way to experience that wildlife
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If You Like
than a stay at a nature lodge, where you
can bird-watch from your porch or bed.
Cana Field Station. Nestled in Parque
Nacional Darién, this remote and rustic lodge is surrounded by jungle that is
home to more than 400 bird species and
an array of other wildlife, making it the
best place in Panama to see animals.
Canopy Tower. This refurbished radar sta-
tion in Parque Nacional Soberanía has
good bird-watching from the restaurant,
the rooftop deck, and every room. Expert
guides and daily hikes help guests see as
much as possible, whereas the property’s sister Canopy Lodge, in El Valle de
Antón, provides more comfort in a gorgeous setting.
Sierra Llorona. Surrounded by a 500-acre
private nature reserve traversed by miles
of trails, this small, affordable lodge has
more than 200 bird species, various types
of monkeys, and other wildlife on the
property.
Finca Lerida. Rooms on this coffee farm
at the edge of Parque Nacional Volcán
Barú are very near a cloud forest where
guests regularly see resplendent quetzals, emerald toucanets, and hundreds of
other birds.
La Loma Jungle Lodge. With just three
open-air bungalows inside the rain forest
on Isla Bastamentos, in Bocas del Toro,
this intimate lodge provides constant
exposure to nature.
Los Quetzales Lodge. Cabins inside the
cloud forest here feature amazing views
and bird-watching, whereas guests at the
main lodge can choose from hikes in two
national parks.
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Diving
With two oceans, 1,600 islands, and
countless acres of coral, Panama is a
world-class dive destination. Its Caribbean reefs and wrecks are adorned with
dozens of sponge and coral species, and
a mind-boggling array of fish and invertebrates, but the Pacific has the country’s
most spectacular dives, with schools of
big fish, manta rays, sharks, and other
marine creatures.
Isla de Coiba. Protected within a vast
national park, Coiba is surrounded by the
country’s best diving, with immense reefs,
submerged pinnacles, and legions of fish.
Explore it on a one-week dive cruises or
shorter trips from Play Santa Catalina.
Isla Iguana. An inexpensive alternative to
Coiba, this protected island off the coast
of the Azuero Peninsula is encircled by
a 100-acre coral reef inhabited by more
than 350 fish species.
Islas Secas. This remote archipelago in the
Gulf of Chiriquí has extensive reefs teeming with marine life that can be explored
from the exclusive resort on the islands,
or on day trips from Boca Chica.
Bocas del Toro. With plenty of coral reefs
and several dive shops, this popular Caribbean archipelago is perfect for scuba divers and snorkeling enthusiasts alike.
Kuna Yala. Though scuba diving is pro-
hibited in Kuna Yala, the province holds
impressive reefs, especially at the Cayos
Holandeses, which can be visited on
cruises with San Blas Sailing.
The Canal. Scuba Panama offers a unique
dive in the Panama Canal, where steam
shovels and trains used to dig it lie submerged in the murky depths.
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