brocato sam

Deconstructing NAHA |Part 3
Judging the Collection
Sam Brocato
Mia Liguori-McHugh
Sam Villa
Salon Owner & Product Developer
SBS
Co-President Creative
Scruples
Education Artistic Director
Redken
p r o b e a u t y. o r g / d e c o n s t r u c t i n g n a h a
Mia Liguori-McHugh presenting the Teals with Capello Salon’s 2008 NAHA Award for Salon Team of the Year
Mia Liguori-McHugh
NAHA Judge & Committee Member
 Co-President, Creative | Scruples
 NAHA judge since early 2000’s
 Judged almost every category
 Favorite categories include
Contemporary Classic, Haircolor & Texture
 Presented on stage multiple times
 NAHA committee member since 2011
 Performed red carpet interviews at
NAHA 2015
Mia Liguori-McHugh & NAHA Chair Michael Shaun Corby interview 2015 NAHA host Brad Goreski
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Mia Liguori-McHugh
NAHA Judge & Committee Member
Contemporary Classic
Photos: 2009 NAHA Finalist Maureen Anlauf
Photos: 2013 NAHA Finalist Charlie Price
Photos: 2015 NAHA Finalist Lindsey Olson
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Mia Liguori-McHugh
NAHA Judge & Committee Member
Photo collection: 2013 NAHA Hairstylist of the Year Winner, Allen Ruiz
How I judge:

Scan full category for immediate reaction; take them all in

Analyze collections on a deeper level:
How crisp are the lines?
How clean is the finish?
Is the texture purposeful?

What’s the degree of difficulty within the collection? What skill level is represented?

Big picture: Do all of the images work together and tell a story?
Does one stand out? Do any fall short?
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Mia Liguori-McHugh
NAHA Judge & Committee Member
Charlie Price’s “Lexicon” collection:
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Hair is finished and clean
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Collection showcases varying hair lengths with common thread, the ringlet
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The hair shows controlled movement with a modern finish in the comb marks
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Mia: What advice would you give a first time NAHA entrant based on this collection?
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Mia Liguori-McHugh
NAHA Judge & Committee Member
Wardrobe:
Photo credit: NAHA 2010 Student Hairstylist of the Year Winner, Rebecca Cowles

Consider your wardrobe options carefully; Charlie’s did not utilize his budget

Charlie’s wardrobe choice shows immense creativity and angular lines that would have been
impossible with fabric
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Charlie’s wardrobe contrasts with the hair, for interesting imagery
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Think of wardrobe as a “red thread” tying the collection together
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Always have back up wardrobe options and practice with anything NONtraditional!
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Villa
NAHA Finalist & Judge

NAHA Finalist

NAHA judge

Advocate of competitions; also judges
Contessa & Mirror Awards

NAHA categories judged include:
Avant Garde
Contemporary Classic
Master Stylist of the Year
Student Hairstylist of the Year
Texture
Above: Sam Villa presents the Master Hairstylist of the Year Award, 2015
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Villa
NAHA Finalist & Judge
Below: NAHA 2014 Master Stylist of the Year Finalist, Vivienne Mackinder
Master Stylist of the Year
Below: NAHA 2015 Master Stylist of the Year Winner, Vivienne Mackinder
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Villa
NAHA Finalist & Judge
Above: NAHA 2013 Master Hairstylist of the Year Winner, Dimitrios Tsioumas
How I judge:
 Review first as a collection, then by individual image
 Technical flaws immediately distract from the image and discount the photo
I notice flaws in focus, exposure, contract and composition
 Critical elements I’m considering as I review:
Impact– is an idea, message or story conveyed? How do I feel when I view it?
Technical excellence- retouching, sharpness, lighting help define the quality
General characteristics- originality, style, genre, insight, etc.
Composition- does the image lead the viewer to the intended focal point?
Color balance- tones used to support the image
Lighting- use & control
Subject matter/ model selection- do they support the story?
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Villa
NAHA Finalist & Judge
Charlie Price’s “Lexicon” collection:
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Overall: great example of keeping beautiful hair simple. A simple theme supported by
simple wardrobe & hair
Impact & general characteristics- the lines of the wardrobe connect with the lines
and flow of the hair. Would like to see more originality & insight
Composition- great balance, use of white draws you in and toward upper 3rd of images
Images #1 & #2 would benefit from additional cropping
Model selection- collection says “modern classic beauty,” but do the models reflect that?
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Villa
NAHA Finalist & Judge
Below: Model featured on claimfame.com
Model Selection
Define your shoot goals FIRST. Let your story determine your model needs
Do test shoots- test for range and versatility
Do background checks
Ask about experience level and budget
Model Requirements
Look for facial structure and balance. What features will complement your theme?
Find models who can emote & connect
If you’re styling the hair up, make sure to check hairline, ears & neck features
Body Composition
5’9” and taller is recommended. Most hair images are in a high ¾ format
Tips for successful model casting
Talk to your team- you may already be connected
Start relationships with modeling agents if you haven’t yet
Request new faces as a potential means to save money
Have realistic expectations regarding cut & color restrictions
Consider freelancers
The best models may be undiscovered!
Hit the streets with flyers for social media, local shops & makeup artists
Connect with other hairdressers regarding clients open to change
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Brocato
NAHA Lifetime Achievement Recipient & Judge
Sam Brocato presents Geno Stampora with Hall of Leaders award, 2009
Received first Editorial Stylist of the Year
(then called Editor’s Choice), 1996
Master hairstylists of the Year, 2003
NAHA judge for 15 years
Judged every category at least once
Sam Brocato receives Lifetime Achievement award, 2005
Received the Lifetime Achievement award, 2005
Sam Brocato
NAHA Lifetime Achievement Recipient & Judge
How I judge… my process:
 Day one; scan all images in each category, making mental notes and trying to absorb the “big picture”
- Collections with one weak photo are uncovered, what happened? Why did they give up?
 Second visit; generally early morning, I look for the story, find the conversation
 Third round; I begin to dismantle details- makeup, combing, placement, things that should have been left out
 Each category is reviewed at least 4 times and given 30-45 minutes of undivided attention
- Rounds of judging are done from 3 different locations during different times of day
- I acknowledge the amount of time & energy used to create the submission. I return that effort through careful analysis
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Left: NAHA 2006 Avant Garde winner, Nicholas French
“I don’t have a favorite category to judge. Being a student in a judge’s costume, I just love the process” – Sam Brocato
Sam Brocato
NAHA Lifetime Achievement Recipient & Judge
How I judge… my analysis:
 Looking for a theme, a cohesive statement
 Reviewing & analyzing the overall composition,
including:
- hair
- makeup
- costume
- photography/lighting
- set design
- image order
 Identify strongest shot, then weakest.
- How much compromise was made?
 How well did the hair designer & photographer
work together? Did the photographer hijack the shoot?
How well did the team work together, is the balance
evidenced?
 What level of retouching was done?
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Brocato
NAHA Lifetime Achievement Recipient & Judge
Charlie Price’s “Lexicon” collection:
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Hair composition is excellent; as a judge this is the aspect that pulls me in
The backdrop doesn’t optimize the images, not engaging enough
Wardrobe is very compelling
Theme is “young downtown” with a soft geometric study of form and fashion. The gradient light is
perfect to support and establish this mood. Lip color doesn’t feel particularly consistent.
The brunette is the hero/trophy shot
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Sam Brocato
NAHA Lifetime Achievement Recipient & Judge
Above: Charlie Price’s “Lexicon” collection, rearranged for discussion on photo order
Photo Order
 Your viewers will look first to your most powerful or polarizing image
(Be analytical and self aware enough to recognize your most powerful image)
 Make that your center image, while still paying attention to your theme
 Viewers read from left to right
 Consider hair length in determining your order
Deconstructing NAHA | Judging the Collection
Deconstructing NAHA |Part 3
Thank you for joining us!
Special thanks to
Charlie Price
(charliepricehair.com)
for the use of his
“Lexicon” collection and his
commitment to PBA education
(Live Attendees Only)
Watch your inboxes for a
certificate of attendance,
copy of this presentation &
additional recommended programming
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