Rabbit Care Guide - South Florida Rabbit Rescue

We are a non-profit organization* that rescues, rehabilitates, and rehomes abandoned/neglected rabbits
Rabbit Care Guide
[email protected]
www.southfloridarabbitrescue.com
Contents
Basics ...................................................................................................................................... 4
Why a House Rabbit?.......................................................................................................... 4
Rabbit Facts ......................................................................................................................... 5
10-Point Primer for New Bunny Families ............................................................................ 6
Diet ........................................................................................................................................... 7
Overview .............................................................................................................................. 7
Hay ....................................................................................................................................... 7
How/When to Feed Hay ...................................................................................................... 8
Pellets .................................................................................................................................. 9
Vegetables ......................................................................................................................... 10
Fruits .................................................................................................................................. 10
Carrots ............................................................................................................................... 11
Treats ................................................................................................................................. 12
Rabbit Food Pyramid ......................................................................................................... 13
Feeding Guide by Age ....................................................................................................... 14
Water Intake....................................................................................................................... 14
Housing .................................................................................................................................. 15
Cages ................................................................................................................................. 15
Enclosures/Areas............................................................................................................... 16
Indoor/Outdoor FAQ .......................................................................................................... 17
The Great Oudoors ............................................................................................................ 18
Top 9 Reasons to Keep Your Bunny Indoors ................................................................... 19
Rabbit-Proofing .................................................................................................................. 20
Handling................................................................................................................................. 21
Basics ................................................................................................................................. 21
Approaching a Rabbit ........................................................................................................ 21
Picking a Rabbit Up ........................................................................................................... 21
Trancing/Hypnotizing ......................................................................................................... 21
Children & Rabbits ................................................................................................................ 22
Helping Children Handle Rabbits ...................................................................................... 22
Primary Caretakers ............................................................................................................ 22
Responsibilities Suitable for Children ............................................................................... 22
Grooming ............................................................................................................................... 23
Baths .................................................................................................................................. 23
Butt Baths .......................................................................................................................... 23
Mats.................................................................................................................................... 23
Skin .................................................................................................................................... 24
Brushing ............................................................................................................................. 24
Nails ................................................................................................................................... 25
Feet .................................................................................................................................... 25
Ears .................................................................................................................................... 25
Eyes ................................................................................................................................... 25
Teeth .................................................................................................................................. 25
Spay/Neuter ........................................................................................................................... 25
Reasons to Spay/Neuter ................................................................................................... 26
FAQ: Spay/Neuter ............................................................................................................. 27
Poop....................................................................................................................................... 28
GI Stasis............................................................................................................................. 28
Litter Box Training.............................................................................................................. 29
Types of Poop .................................................................................................................... 31
Behavior................................................................................................................................. 32
Toys.................................................................................................................................... 32
Chewing ............................................................................................................................. 33
Exercise ............................................................................................................................. 34
Socializing .......................................................................................................................... 34
Shy Rabbits........................................................................................................................ 34
“Aggressive” Rabbits ......................................................................................................... 35
Understanding the Lagomorph’s Language ..................................................................... 36
Recommended Supplies ....................................................................................................... 37
Never Set a Rabbit “Free” ..................................................................................................... 38
Wild v. Domestic Rabbits ...................................................................................................... 39
Basics
Why a House Rabbit?
Perhaps you’ve just adopted your first rabbit or maybe you are considering adopting one.
There are numerous benefits to adopting a house rabbit! Rabbits are unique, social animals
that make wonderful companions. People often misunderstand rabbits and their due to lack
of education. We hope this guide will provide you with sufficient information to understand
just how amazing house rabbits are…and how a rabbit truly turns a house into a home.
Important: Please learn about proper rabbit care before deciding to add a rabbit to your
family. Rabbits are NOT easy, low maintenance pets, nor are they "starter pets" for kids.
Rabbit Facts
10-Point Primer for New Bunny Families
Diet
Overview
A rabbit's diet should be made up of good quality pellets, fresh hay, and fresh leafy
greens/herbs. Anything beyond that is a "treat" and should be given in limited quantities. Do
not feed any seeds, nuts, corn!
Hay
Hay is most important part of your rabbit’s diet. Rabbits should always have fresh unlimited
timothy or grass hay—not alfalfa. Timothy Hay is high in fiber, which is essential for proper
digestion and reduces the danger of G.I. Stasis. Alfalfa hay should only be given to rabbits
under 6 months old. Adult rabbits should not eat alfalfa hay; it is too rich for their digestive
system.
How/When to Feed Hay
Because hay is such an important part of a rabbit’s diet, access to unlimited hay must be
available 24/7. We recommend that you place a large ball of hay off to one side of the
rabbit’s litter box. Yes, that’s right—in the litter box. Rabbits like to poop where they eat.
Or, to track hay intake and decrease the amount of hay that get’s soiled, use a hay holder
like this Over the Tank Toilet Paper Basket from Walmart or Amazon.
Pellets
Rabbits should only eat plain pellets. Timothy-based pellets are the most nutritional and are
preferred over alfalfa based pellets. We recommend Oxbow Adult Rabbit Food. Do not
purchase “fiesta blend” pellets. They look appetizing to us with their colorful foods, dried
fruits and nuts, but they are unhealthy for the bunny. Just because they sell them at the pet
store does not mean they are good for your bunny! These types of food do not contain
enough fiber and are digested as sugar. Limit their pellets to ½ cup of food per 6 pounds of
body weight once daily. Rabbits under 6 months can be free fed.
Vegetables
Green vegetables, including herbs, are an important part of your rabbit’s diet. However, you
do not need to make them a grand salad every evening. Too many greens can cause
mushy poops.
Fruits
Fruits should be given sparingly, as they are high in sugar. You may give them a small
amount a few times a week. For example, a small amount is a bite of banana or a slice of
apple (without seeds) when you are actually eating fruit yourself.
Carrots
Contrary to popular belief, carrots are NOT good for rabbits. Although Bugs Bunny would
have you believe otherwise. Rabbits cannot live on a diet of only carrots or only fruits and
vegetables. Do not mistakenly believe you are keeping your rabbit “healthy” by only feeding
it carrots.
Limit feeding carrots to a maximum of one baby carrot every other day.
That means no carrot shavings in their nightly salad! That does not count as one whole
carrot either!
Treats
Rabbits do not need treats. Almost every treat sold in your local pet store is bad for a rabbit.
We recommend feeding the Oxbow “Simple Rewards” treats sparingly. Or, make your own!
But why do they sell it in the pet stores?
Rabbit Food Pyramid
Feeding Guide by Age
Babies and Teenagers


Birth to 3 weeks--mother’s milk
3 to 4 weeks--mother’s milk,
nibbles of alfalfa and pellets
 4 to 7 weeks--mother’s milk,
access to alfalfa and pellets
 7 weeks to 7 months--unlimited
pellets, unlimited timothy and
alfalfa hay (plus see 12 weeks
below)
 12 weeks--introduce vegetables
(one at a time, quantities under
1/2 oz.)
Mature Adults: 1 to 5 years




Unlimited Timothy Hay
1/4 to 1/2 cup pellets per 6 lbs.
body weight (depending on
metabolism and/or
proportionate to veggies)
Minimum 2 cups chopped
vegetables per 6 lbs. body
weight
Fruit daily ratio: no more than 2
oz. (2 TBL) per 6 lbs. body
weight
Water Intake
Young Adults: 7 months to 1 year




Introduce timothy hay,
decrease alfalfa
Decrease pellets to 1/2 cup per
6 lbs. body weight
Increase daily vegetables
gradually
Fruit daily ratio: no more than 1
oz. to 2 oz. per 6 lbs. body
weight (because of calories)
Senior Rabbits: Over 6 years


If sufficient weight is
maintained, continue adult diet
Frail, older rabbits may need
unrestricted pellets to keep
weight up. Alfalfa can be given
to underweight rabbits, only if
calcium levels are normal.
Annual blood workups are
highly recommended for
geriatric rabbits.
Housing
Cages
The word “cage” means different things to different people.
We try not to use the word “cage” to describe a rabbit’s primary
enclosure/area; most rabbit enthusiasts do not believe in
traditional rabbit cages, which are often small and have wire floors.
Why can’t I use a wire-bottom cage?
Rabbits are not equipped to live on wire floors or wire-bottom
cages. They have no padding on their feet either. While these
types of cages may seem like a simple solution to litter box
training, the long-term effects on a rabbit’s health are devastating.
When I was growing up, my rabbits always
lived outside Why isn’t that okay now?
Rabbit welfare is becoming more predominant. How we used
to house and treat rabbits when we were younger is no longer
acceptable, due to the amount of current information and
research. Just because you did something one way in the past,
does not mean you should do that way again
When can I use a cage?
When a rabbit is a baby or less than 3 months, a small plastic
bottom cage can be used temporarily to encourage good litter
box habits. Place a small litter box in the corner of the plastic
bottom cage to encourage good litter habits. Remember to cover
the bottom of the litter box with a thin layer of bedding and a
large amount of Timothy Hay to one side.
What about an outdoor hutch?
Simply put, they are not enough!
Not only are outdoor hutches unsafe for domestic rabbits due to
the environment and predators, but they are lonely, small places
to be!
Enclosures/Areas
Where should a rabbit live?
At the South Florida Rabbit Rescue, we only adopt our rabbits out to indoor homes with
approved enclosures/areas/condos. An example of an enclosure for a rabbit may include:\

A dog exercise pen that is at least 36 inches high with corrugated plastic or beach towels
at the bottom.

An rabbit “condo”. DIY by following a guide or searching for instructional videos on
YouTube. We also build condos in an exchange for a donation to the rescue. Email us at
[email protected] for more information.

Free roam of your entire house, an entire room, or a portion of a room
Indoor/Outdoor FAQ
Q: What’s the difference between an indoor/outdoor rabbit?
A: The South Florida Rabbit Rescue considers this question to be based upon faulty logic. We
do not believe there is such a thing as an “outdoor domestic rabbit”. Domestic rabbits should
not be kept outdoors. The only “outdoor” rabbits are wild rabbits, including cottontails, hares,
jack rabbits, marsh rabbits, etc.
Q: When can a domestic rabbit go outside?
A:



When a human can supervise at all times. It takes just a few seconds for the neighbor's dog to
jump the fence and attack or frighten your rabbit to death, or for a hawk to scoop down and grab
your rabbit for dinner.
When the grass has not been sprayed with pesticides or fertilizers.
When you have check the yard for holes in the fence and poisonous plants.
Q: What if my rabbit likes to be outside?
A: Under no circumstances should rabbits be left outside unattended, especially after dark. Even if you
think is very secure, a rabbit can still die of fright while a predator taunts the rabbit from outside.
Q: But my previous rabbits loved to run around the yard all day and it seemed safe,
even when we weren’t home. Sometimes they got in the neighbor’s yard, but they
always came back.
A: This is a very dangerous practice and it is highly discouraged. It is a fallacy to believe that
your domestic rabbit was safe in your backyard all day, unsupervised, with exposure to
extreme temperatures and predators. Just because your rabbit did not get hurt or die from this
in the past, does not mean you should do it now.
The Great Oudoors
Source: The House Rabbit Society
The pleasures of being outdoors include fresh air, sunshine, and freedom to run, chew and
dig. For a prey animal such as a rabbit, your garden can also be a place of danger from:







Predators
Theft or teasing by humans
Moldy or poisonous plants
Toxic pesticides or fertilizers
Exposure to sun, heat, wind, or wet
Bacteria contained in dirt
Diseases spread by flies and mosquitoes
Of these, the greatest threat is attack by predators. These occur primarily at night, but can
also happen occasionally in the daytime. Hutches or cages do not provide enough protection
to make it safe to leave the rabbit outdoors 24 hours a day. The House Rabbit Society
receives many calls every week from baffled people whose rabbit died during the night while
confined in a hutch. “I don’t understand — the hutch wasn’t even unlocked, and the rabbit
didn’t have a mark on him. What happened?” With her acute vision, hearing, and smell, a
rabbit can sense the presence of a predator such as a raccoon even in your neighbor’s yard.
She may panic and injure herself, or she may die of shock. Many raccoons can open hutches.
Other predators include coyotes, owls, hawks, possums, cats and dogs.
Some outdoor rabbits avoid death by predator or the other risks mentioned. But what is the
quality of life for an animal living outdoors all the time? And what sort of relationship can you
build if your bunny is out there and you’re indoors? A life spent confined to a hutch is boring,
depressing, and stressful for a sensitive creature such as a rabbit. A life spent unconfined but
outdoors is simply too dangerous for domestic animals. By domesticating them, we have
deprived them of whatever natural ability they had for survival on their own.
For safe daytime exercise, we suggest a pen within your fenced yard, one with a top and
bottom as well as sides, to keep the rabbit from digging out and unwelcome visitors from
climbing or jumping in. A plan from the House Rabbit Handbook (Drollery Press, 1991)
describes an 8’L X 32”W X 32”H made from a frame of pine 2 X 4’s and 1” welded wire. A
plywood top gives shelter and shade, and a wire floor covered with clean straw provides the
rabbit with safe material to burrow in.
If your rabbit currently lives outdoors, we strongly urge you to bring her in at least during the
night, when predators are most common. Even if she’s confined to a smaller cage, or a
bathroom or utility room, she’s safe, and she’s making a first step to being part of your family.
There’s no magic in turning an “outdoor rabbit” into a house rabbit. It can begin in a single
evening.
Don’t think your yard is free of predators just because you live in the city. Raccoons come up
through storm drains and arrive in very urban areas. These agile animals can climb tress and
open doors. Wire cages are no protection for your bunny. If your bunny cannot stay in your
house at night, make sure that he’s enclosed within solid walls and behind a solid door — a
garage, shed, or basement — with a good lock.
Top 9 Reasons to Keep Your Bunny Indoors
Rabbit-Proofing
Source: The House Rabbit Society
Rabbit-proofing one's home involves three things:
1)
Preventing destruction of your property;
2)
Protecting your companion rabbit(s) from harm; and.
3)
Providing safe and fun chewing alternatives for your rabbit.
Preventing rabbits from chewing on electrical cords is of utmost importance, since rabbits can
be badly burned or electrocuted. The consequences of biting into an electric wire are too
severe to risk relying on training alone. Instead, you must take action to move the cords safely
out of reach. Some ways of doing this follow.
 Plastic tubing (similar to that used in fish tanks, or with "swamp coolers") from a
hardware or aquarium store can be split lengthwise with a blade and the wire can be
tucked safely inside. A harder, black, pre-slit type of tubing is also available.
 Decorative gold and wood-grained wire-concealers that stick to the base of walls come
in strips, corners, etc., so they can follow the shape of the wall. This is a more costly
and time consuming method than the clear plastic tubing above, but is more
permanent, and rabbit proof, as well.
 Of course, wires can be run under or behind furniture or carpets in order to hide them.
Most houseplants are toxic. Putting them on high furniture may not keep a rabbit away.
Hang them from the ceiling if you have an active bunny, but watch for falling leaves! If
you are unsure which plants may be toxic, the House Rabbit Handbook (Drollery Press)
has a complete list of poisonous plants (indoors and outdoors), as do two back issues
of House Rabbit Journal.
If a rabbit insists on chewing baseboards, edges of chairs, etc., a board can be put over the
places of temptation, making them inaccessible while also providing an acceptable chewing
surface. This method should be combined with training your rabbit not to chew on these
items.
Rabbits can't resist digging at the end of "tunnels" (any place that furniture forms a narrow
path to a wall). Lay a piece of wood or hard plastic at the end of the tunnel, holding it down
with the furniture on either side to protect the carpet. You can also place a tub full of hay,
shredded newspaper, or a phone book, here as well for bunny to dig in.
Upholstered furniture and beds that are several inches off the ground are wonderful places for
rabbits to hide underneath. However, some will burrow up into the soft underside and make a
nest. A flat cardboard box or frame of 2x4s, smaller than the area of the future base, will keep
the rabbit out, and won't be seen from human level.
Rabbits chew to exercise their minds, not just their teeth. Provide lots of entertaining
alternatives for your bun to chew on. If she enjoys chewing a hole into the back of the couch,
give her a closed cardboard box filled with paper or straw, with a small hole in it to start, and
let her finish the job. Be imaginative!
Handling
Basics
Rabbits are extremely delicate animals. They have fragile skeletons and can be seriously
injured if dropped or allowed to fall. When picked up, a scared rabbit may kick out with their
powerful hind legs and fall to the floor, breaking their back.Because rabbits are prey animals,
they would rather not be picked up—they prefer that you meet them at their level and pet them
on the floor.
Approaching a Rabbit
The safest way to initially approach a rabbits and build trust is to:
1) Get as low to the ground as you can to meet them at their level.
2) Gently offer your hand to the rabbit calmly without sudden movement or gestures. Do
not get too close to the rabbit’s face as they have two-dimensional vision and may
mistake you for a predator.
3) Allow the rabbit to examine/sniff/nose/chin your hand.
4) Then stroke the top of the head, from the nose up (without touching the nose or chin).
Picking a Rabbit Up
1)
2)
3)
4)
Place one hand under the rabbit’s stomach, behind the front legs
Place the other hand just above the bunny’s tail, near it’s backside
Ensure all four feet are supported by your chest (horizontally or vertically)
Hug the rabbit against your body firmly but gently.
*NEVER pick up a rabbit by the ears—this is very painful and can cause permanent injury.
*NEVER chase a rabbit, use force, or yell—that will only teach them to fear you.
*ALWAYS be sensitive and gentle with your rabbit.
*ALWAYS respect your rabbit’s boundaries and accept if they do not want to be picked up.
Trancing/Hypnotizing
Often a bunny can be “hypnotized” or “tranced” by cradling him on his back in your arms or
across your lap until he seems to “pass out”. This is a very dangerous practice and should be
avoided unless absolutely necessary. Trancing a rabbit is not the only way to cut their nails.
You can save yourself and your rabbit a lot of stress grooming your rabbit by having someone
firmly secure the rabbit while you lift each paw and cut one nail at a time.
Children & Rabbits
Helping Children Handle Rabbits





Do not allow a child under the age of 13 to hold or interact with a rabbit without
supervision.
As the adult, handle the rabbit first before allowing your child to hold it. Sometimes,
swaddling the rabbit in a thin towel will help the rabbit feel secure and will protect the child
from sharp toenails. But, please do not put the rabbit on its back.
Explain to children that rabbits are prey animals and do not enjoy being held, no matter
how cuddly they look.
Do not allow your child to chase or grab a rabbit.
If the rabbit hops away from a child or out of a child’s arms, allow the rabbit to do so. Then,
calmly explain to the child that rabbit’s like to interact on their own terms and this does not
mean the rabbit doesn’t like him/her.
Primary Caretakers
If you are adopting a rabbit for a child, you must realize that your child will not be the primary
caretaker—you will be. Rabbits are high-maintenance pets and children should not be the
primary caregivers. Your child’s interest in the rabbit will come and go from day to day or week
to week. Your child may go several days without showing an interest and then other days will
want to interact with your rabbit several times. This is very common for children and should be
taken into account by parents. Positive encouragement to participate in their care giving is a
great start for your child and their new pet to start a lasting friendship.
Responsibilities Suitable for Children



Children should not be held accountable for feeding a rabbit in any way, shape, or form.
Unlike a cat or a dog, you cannot “forget” to feed your rabbit and make up for it later.
Rabbits must have constant access to fresh hay and water.
Responsibilities should be delegated as part of daily chores
Examples of appropriate responsibilities for children include:
- Rinsing out the litter box
- Filling litter box with litter
- Spending a minimum of 30 minutes each day with the rabbit
- Making toys for the rabbit
Grooming
Baths
In the old days, some bunnies grew up swimming in the family pool and going on camping
trips to paddle around in the lake But this should never be the case, due to recent research
related to rabbit welfare.
The only type of bath that is acceptable is a “butt bath” and ONLY when advised by an exotic
vet.
Butt Baths
Your average rabbit with a healthy diet should not need a butt bath. Typically, the only rabbits
that do need butt baths are ones on a poor, high sugar diet. Bad diet causes mushy poops
and diarrhea that a rabbit almost literally cannot clean herself/himself.
Mats
Rabbit skin is paper thin and very delicate. Because rabbit skin is so susceptible to cuts, a mat
splitter or mat rake should be used to take a mat apart. Bunny fur usually requires a finer
blade than most cats and dogs.
Skin
Scratchy, flaky skin with bald patches can be a symptom of the following conditions:
 Ring worm
 Fur mites
 Ear mites
 Fleas- can be safely treated with Revolution or Advantage. Never Frontline! Frontline
has been found to kill rabbits!
 Ticks
A vet should always be consulted when a skin irritation is suspected.
Brushing
Brush your rabbit at least once a week! Make sure you are using a brush that is capable of
removing hair form a rabbit without tearing its skin. Using a standard hairbrush will not work!
Try a Furminator!
Technique:
 Hold excess rabbit hair in one hand while using the other hand to brush out obvious pieces
that interfere with the growth pattern
 It is typical to remove a lot of hair from a rabbit. They shed just as much as cats/dogs!
Nails
House rabbits need to have their nails trimmed periodically, the way a cat or dog do.
*We recommend you trim your rabbit’s nails twice a month to avoid overgrowing.
Here’s an easy way to trim your rabbit’s nails without trancing him/her:
1. Ask a friend to gently yet firmly secure the rabbit with all four feet on an elevated
surface
2. Carefully lift each paw and cut one nail at a time, being careful to not cut the quick
3. If you do accidentally cut the quick of the nail, hold firmly with a paper towel to stop the
bleeding and then apply Kwik Stop powder.
Feet
If the padding (fur) on the feet is worn down, exposed, or inflamed, then provide soft rugs or
blankets. Exposed skin can become easily infected.
Ears
Rabbits naturally clean their ears on a daily basis. If you suspect your rabbit is suffering from
ear mites, contact your exotic vet immediately.
Eyes
Contact your exotic vet immediately if you notice any discharge, tearing, squinting, or
excessive blinking.
Teeth
Bunnies with normal, aligned teeth will keep them worn down with 24/7 access to hay and
everyday gnawing and chewing at toys. If your rabbit’s teeth are crooked, appear to have an
overbite, or are growing outside of the mouth, this may indicate a dental condition known as
malocclusion. Please immediately contact your vet if you notice any of these symptoms.
Spay/Neuter
Reasons to Spay/Neuter
1. To prevent diseases, mainly uterine cancer
 “Up to 85% of female rabbits develop uterine cancer by the age of four if they have
not been spayed.” (Kruse 2003)
2. To give your rabbit a longer, healthier life
 Prevent stress caused by hormones
 Altered rabbits won’t be tempted to fight with other animals (rabbits, cats, etc.) due
to his sexual aggression.
3. To improve litter box habits
 Unaltered male rabbits spray
 Unaltered female rabbits have very smelly urine
 Reduction in hormones= reliable to train
4. To have a better companion that is well-tempered
 They are calmer, more loving, and dependable once the undeniable urge to mate
has been removed.
5. To avoid aggressive, obnoxious behavior
 After surgery, rabbits are less prone to destructive (chewing, digging) and
aggressive (biting, lunging, circling, growling).
6. To reduce pet overpopulation
 Rabbits are the 3rd most popular pet and the 3rd most abandoned pet
 Unwanted rabbits are often abandoned in fields, parks, or on city streets to fend for
themselves, where they suffer from starvation, sickness, and are easy prey to other
animals or traffic accidents.
7. To be able to have two or more rabbits together
 Rabbits are social animals and crave the company of another rabbits
 You typically cannot pair rabbits of the same sex due to aggressive behavior
triggered by hormones
 Without a doubt, unaltered rabbits of the same sex will reproduce. There is no way
to stop this but sterilization.
8. Because it’s safe
 Only when performed by experienced rabbit veterinarians or exotic vets
 Don’t allow a veterinarian with little or no experience with rabbits to spay or neuter
your rabbit. Regardless of cost or other factors. Find a rabbit-savvy vet in your
area.
 The House Rabbit Society has had over 1000 rabbits spayed or neutered with
approximately .1% mortality due to anesthesia.
FAQ: Spay/Neuter
Q: Why should I get my bunny fixed?
A: Besides the various health concerns, most people spay or neuter their rabbits to prevent
unwanted litters. It is very difficult to find adequate homes for rabbits and the U.S. is currently
facing severe overpopulation. Unaltered rabbits can give birth every 30 days, with litters of
roughly 4 to 12 kits. A female rabbit can get pregnant up to 30 minutes after giving birth.
Q: What if I want baby rabbits?
A: Consider volunteering with a local rescue or shelter to experience baby rabbits. Then
decide if you want to adopt one or two. Baby rabbits are very cute, but, because rabbits
produce so quickly, many are left to die outside or are euthanized in shelters. Help prevent
overpopulation.
Q: What if he/she is my only rabbit?
A: Spay/neuter is important for various health reasons. Female rabbits have an 80% chance of
developing uterine cancer as they age. Males are also at risk for testicular cancer, especially if
the testicles have not descended for some reason.
Q: What if my rabbit is not exhibiting any behavioral problems? Do I still need to get
him/her fixed?
A: If you ever plan on having another rabbit, it’s a good idea to do so! In order to bond rabbits,
both need to be fixed. You may be able to avoid neutering a single male bunny if you have no
intention of having other rabbits, but why take a health risk if it can be avoided? Even if you
have a well-behaved female rabbit, hormones can cause painful cysts or thickening of the
uterus. Spay can double or triple a female rabbit’s expected lifespan.
Q: Will it spay/neuter change my rabbit’s personality?
A: In short, probably not. Most bunny parents report that their bunny's personality is
unchanged by spay or neuter, but you may personally find your bunny to be less “energetic” or
“friendly”, depending upon how you evaluate energy and friendliness.
Q: Is it safe?
A: Spay/neuter is very safe when conducted by an experienced rabbit veterinarian
Q: What if I can’t afford it?
A: Check to see if your local humane society or shelter offers discounted spay/neuter rates.
Many local organizations offer “Spay Days” or similar events. You can also finance your
rabbit’s spay/neuter through organization’s like CareCredit.
Q: What else might I need to know?
A: It takes about a month for males to be completely infertile after being neutered, so separate
males from any unspayed female bunnies. Use separate exercise pens to house bunnies who
have been spayed/neutered at the same time to prevent fighting, humping, or disruption of the
surgical area..
Poop
GI Stasis
Gastrointestinal stasis is commonly referred to as the silent killer. However, if you know what
signs to look for and act quickly enough, you may be able to help your bunny get through it. GI
stasis is a potentially deadly condition in which the digestive system slows down or stops
completely. Bad bacteria then builds up in the intestines and releases gas into the system,
causing very painful bloating and further decreasing a rabbit's motivation to eat or drink. The
contents of the digestive tract will become more compact and the rabbit will have an even
more difficult time passing it through.
GI Stasis or the slowdown of the digestive system can be caused by:
 A high starch, low fiber diet
 Stress (from losing a bonded mate, a change in environment, etc.)
 Pain from underlying issues (dental problems like molar spurs, urinary tract infections,
gas)
 Lack of exercise
If you see any of these signs, it is an emergency and you need to contact your vet ASAP.
Rabbits can die within 24-48 hours due to GI Stasis.
Litter Box Training
Rabbits naturally choose one or a few places (usually corners) to go to the bathroom. Here are
some factors that affect litter box training:
Age: Older rabbits are easier to train than younger rabbits, especially babies.
Spay/Neuter: When rabbits reach 4-6 months of age, their hormones become active and they
usually begin marking their territory. By spaying or neutering your rabbit, he will be more likely
to use his litterbox (as well as be much healthier and happier).
Types of litter:
 Compressed Equine Pine Pellets (available for purchase at local horse feed stores and
usually the cheapest method)
 CareFresh, Yesterday’s News, or any litter made of recycled paper
 Avoid pine or cedar shavings, as these products can cause liver damage and/or respiratory
issues.
Cleaning and Disposal:
 Clean litterboxes often to encourage your rabbit to use them.
 Use white vinegar to rinse boxes out. Let soak on tough stains.
 Accidents outside of the cage can be cleaned up with white vinegar or club soda.
 If urine has already dried, you can try products like "Nature's Miracle" to remove stain/odor.
Placement:
 Use an enclosure large enough to contain a medium to large-sized litter box and still allow
the rabbit room to stretch out
 Place the litter box where the rabbit seems to poop/pee the most. This may require using
multiple litter boxes.
 If your rabbit refuses to use a litter box, use as many litter boxes as it takes to encourage
use. Even if this means the entire area is covered with litter boxes.
 In order for your bunny to successfully transition his/her litter box habits to their new home,
they will need you to guide them along and help them become successful. Unlike cats, they
do not immediately seek out a litter box—they have to learn where there litter box is.
 When you bring your bunny home, keep this in mind: the less space your rabbit starts off
with, the sooner they will resume good litter habits. The more room they have to roam
gives them more places to make mistakes!
 Once your bunny uses the box reliably in their cage, you can let him/her out to run around
for longer periods of time.
 Start with a small area and gradually increase their play area as their litter box skills
improve.
 Once she's using the box in her area/enclosure, open her door and allow her into her
running space. Watch her go in and out on her own. If she heads to a corner where there's
no box, or lifts up her tail in the characteristic fashion, cry "no" in a single, sharp burst of
sound.
 Gently herd her back to her enclosure and her litterbox or into one of the boxes in her
room. Do not use this as punishment. Rather, use it to show her where she is supposed to
go.
 If you allow your rabbit too much freedom at first, they will not learn where his litter box is
located and will urinate any where they wish. Remember your bunny’s success depends
on how diligent you are.
Special problems:
 Some rabbits love to kick their litter out of the box. Get a covered litter box (with a hood) to
help solve this problem. You can also try experimenting with different litters.
 Some rabbits back up so far in the litter box that the urine goes over the edge. One
solution would be to get a litter box that is shaped like a tub with higher sides.
 Place a "urine guard" around the back of the enclosure to enclose litter and pee in their
area.
Considerations:
 Don't be concerned if your bunny curls up in his litter box--this is natural. They enjoy
hanging out in there.
 All rabbits will drop poops around the house/areas or other cages to mark territory. This is
not due to failure to be litter-trained. It is very important for a rabbit to recognize what area
belongs to them; distinguish the family’s area from the rabbit’s area, but do not try to force
him/her in or out.
 Rabbits are creatures of habit. Make a routine and stick to it!
Types of Poop
While poop is never a favorite topic of conversation, it is essential for you to know all about it.
Bunnies produce two types of poops:
1) A kind that looks like cocoa puffs
2) A kind that looks like a blackberry: these blackberry-looking droppings are called
cecotropes. In all actuality, cecotropes are not feces but are nutrient-packed dietary
items essential to your rabbit's good health. Naturally the rabbit’s instincts know this
and they consume them. They usually do this at night when no one is looking. The most
important part to watch out for is mushy or runny stool sticking to the bunny's rear and
creating a nasty, stinky mess. In most cases this mess is made of poorly formed
cecotropes that have the consistency of toothpaste, rather than the normal form of
bunched, squishy pellets. If and when this happens to your bunny, it is most likely
because they were eating food that wasn’t good for them. Too many treats . A diet too
rich in digestible fiber and not enough crude fiber creates an unbalanced digestion
creating too many undesirable “gut” bacteria and not enough beneficial bacteria. This
causes mushy or runny stools. If this happens, cut out all treats, veggies and fruits and
give plenty of fresh timothy hay. If it continues for over a day and becomes more runny
and watery, you must call the vet as this indicates an emergency.
Check out this Guide to Bunny Poops for more specific information!
Behavior
Toys
Source: House Rabbit Society
Toys provide:
1. Mental stimulation. Without challenging activities to occupy your rabbit when you’re not
home, your rabbit, especially a solitary rabbit, will get bored. This could lead to depression
and/or excessive destruction. The creative use of toys can extend your rabbit’s life by
keeping him interested in his surroundings, by giving him the freedom to interact with those
surroundings, and by allowing him to constantly learn and grow
2. Physical exercise. Your rabbit needs safe activities to keep her body in shape as well as
her mind. She needs things to climb on, crawl under, hop on and around, dig into, and
chew on. Without outlets for these physical needs, your rabbit may become fat or
depressed, or may create jumping, chewing, or crawling diversions with your furniture.
3. Bunny proofing for your home. As is clear from the above descriptions, toys are not just for
your rabbit, they also keep your house safe. By providing your rabbit with a selection of
toys chosen to meet her age, sex, reproductive status and temperament, you have fulfilled
most of the requirements of bunny-proofing your home. Some good toys to start with:
 Paper Bags and Cardboard boxes for crawling inside, scratching, and chewing
 Cardboard concrete forms for burrowing
 Cardboard roll from paper towels or toilet paper
 Untreated wicker baskets or boxes full of: shredded paper, junk mail, magazines,
straw, or other organic materials for digging
 Yellow Pages for shredding
 Cat toys: Batta balls, and other cat toys that roll or can be tossed
 Parrot toys that can be tossed, or hung from the top of the cage and chewed or hit
 Baby toys: hard plastic (not teething) toys like rattles and keys, things that can be
tossed
 Children's or birds' mobiles for hitting
 "Lazy cat lodge" (cardboard box with ramps and windows) to climb in and chew on.
Also, kitty condos, tubes, tunnels, and trees
 Nudge and roll toys like large rubber balls, empty Quaker Oat boxes and small tins
 "Busy Bunny" toys
 Rainbow slinkies
 Toys with ramps and lookouts for climbing and viewing the world
 Dried out pine cones
 Jungle gym type toys from Toys R Us
 A (straw) whisk broom
 A hand towel for bunching and scooting
 Untreated wood, twigs and logs that have been aged for at least 3 months (apple
tree branches can be eaten fresh off the tree. Stay away from: cherry, peach,
apricot, plum and redwood, which are all poisonous.
 Untreated sea grass or maize mats from Pier One or Cost Plus Imports
Chewing
Source: House Rabbit Society
Why does your rabbit chew things other than her meals? Chewing is a normal, natural,
necessary — and highly enjoyable — activity for rabbits. Here is an outline of some
considerations to help you understand the why of chewing, as well as the how of preventing
destruction of your favorite wicker furniture.
I.
Psychological factors
a. Gender: Females often have a stronger urge to burrow than males, although this
is not the only reason rabbits chew. The hormone/age factors below also apply to
males. Both males and females can and should be spayed or neutered as soon
as they are sexually mature (3 1/2 to 6 mos. old).
b. Hormones/Age: Is she spayed?
 If young (under 2 yrs.) & unspayed, spay her.
 If young & spayed, her chewing will lessen with time.
 If mature (over 2 yrs.) & unspayed, spay her but get a checkup first.
 If mature & spayed, her behavior isn’t governed by hormones.
c. Personality: Chewers are often intelligent, outgoing, affectionate individuals who
like to be in charge and get lots of attention.
 Does she chew to get attention?
 Would a companion alleviate boredom?
 Anything that would entertain her/make her happier might lessen her
chewing.
d. Boredom/Need for attention: Some rabbits like to chew for attention. Some
rabbits like to chew because they are anxious or bored. They could be playful or
frustrated. You need to get to know your rabbit to determine this. Rabbits are very
social, intelligent animals. Talk to them out loud and ask them questions like:
 Are you getting enough exercise?
 What’s wrong?
 Observe your rabbit:
o Learn what makes them happy or what are they up to when happiest.
o Rabbits are communicating with you all the time. It's up to you to learn what
they are saying.
 Rabbits are like babies. You have to switch the toys out they get over them after
a while. Consider making them a new toy:
o Get some hay lay it flat on a countertop. Put a couple of craisins in the
middle, roll the hay up, and stuff it in a toilet paper roll. With it sticking out all
over. Use scissors to fray the edge of the toilet paper roll.
o Google homemade rabbit toys. An empty box with a hole in is fabulous. 12
pack soda cartons awesome!!!
II.
Environmental factors
a. Diversions: keep trying to find something harmless she enjoys doing. What kind
of “burrow” (such as a cardboard box stuffed with hay), can you provide for her?
b. Protecting the environment: Besides the more traditional wire protection
devices (plastic tubing), a box or wire basket can go over a group of wires.
c. Confinement: This simply buys you time, while you bunny-proof, get her spayed,
or wait for her to mature.
d. Discipline: (clapping hands, saying “no”) has a small role in stopping chewing
behavior. Find out what’s at the root of the behavior instead.
Exercise
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Rabbits need a minimum of 3 hours of exercise every day OUTSIDE of their
defined/designated living area
Try to exercise rabbits in the morning while you are getting ready f or work and at night
when you are just getting home
Exercise prevents boredom
Be sure that you place runners or carpet on hard surfaces to prevent slipping, thereby
aggravating joints, and to provide good traction.
Socializing
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Whether you are a rabbit owner or a volunteer, it is important for you to assess a rabbit’s
behavior.
Avoid coming to conclusions or making judgments about a rabbit.
o Don’t label a rabbit a “biter” without analyzing the underlying reason for the
behavior. The rabbit is most likely just cage-protective or cage-aggressive. To
overcome this behavior, he will likely need:
 Gradual increases in space
 Floor time without being touched or grabbed at
 Being spoken to in a gentle voice
 Offering your hand for the rabbit to smell, but not touching the rabbit
Because rabbits are prey animals, many will not fully come out of their shells until they are
fully comfortable or have settled into a permanent environment.
Many rabbits will arrive in a new environment and present as either shy or aggressive. This
is because it takes time for them to learn to trust new humans. If a rabbit isn’t responding
the way you want it to, this isn’t the rabbit’s fault. You need to learn to speak their
language.
Shy Rabbits
One of the most common misconceptions people have about rabbits is that they like to be held
and cuddled. This is probably because they look like plush toys. Unfortunately, many people
bring home rabbits without realizing the true nature of rabbits, and that's one of the main
reason these lovely, intelligent creatures end up at the shelter after they reach sexual maturity
and begin to assert their strong personalities.
Rabbits are ground-dwelling creatures. Being held up in the air is uncomfortable for them.
Rabbits that scratch, struggle, or even bite when being held is not a sign of a problematic
temperament; it is a sign that rabbits, for the most part, don’t like to be held because they are
prey animals! Some rabbits are able to reach a level of predictable trust with humans in which
being held is comfortable. Some are not able to reach this level and respond differently to
being held every time.
Many rabbits are naturally shy and take awhile to develop trust. Sitting in a quiet and giving
the rabbit a small treat helps to form a little bit of trust as well. The more quiet time that a
person spends with the rabbit at home, without danger and demands, the more the rabbit will
come to trust the person and a bond will form. Just because the rabbit had one type of bond
with one person, does not mean they will have the same type of bond with another. All
relationships with rabbits are different, in the same way that all human relationships are
different.
“Aggressive” Rabbits
1. Many unneutered or unspayed rabbits will growl, bite, circle, and mount thanks to sexual
frustration. Neutering males and spaying females can dramatically reduce these kinds of
behaviors.
2. Rabbits have poor near-distance vision, and have a blind spot right in front of their nose.
For that reason, many rabbits will lunge at or bite a hand that approaches their nose,
because it startles them. Try to approach the rabbits by petting the side of their body, the
top of the head, or other areas that don’t involve you putting your hand right in front of their
face.
3. Some rabbits, if they come from an abusive situation, may react to their fear and confusion
by biting. These rabbits need time to learn to trust humans again.
4. Many rabbits are cage-protective, because of their natural territorial nature. That means
that you must be careful when cleaning the cage. For rabbits that lunge, keep your hand
above his head and then calmly and quickly bring it down to the top of his head. If he lets
you touch his head, very softly stroke it. Eventually, he should associate your hand in the
cage with a nice nose rub, not being grabbed.
5. Rabbits will bite when they are frightened, such as when they are being held and have a
fear of falling, or when they are defending themselves against what they perceive to be a
predator (even if that predator is you).
6. Rabbits cannot speak, so one of the ways in which they communicate important
information is nipping. If a person is doing something the rabbit doesn’t like, they may react
with a small (but sharp) bite. This is the bunny’s way of telling you that you’ve irritated
them. But it doesn’t mean that the rabbit is ‘aggressive.’
NEVER HIT A RABBIT! The minute you hit a rabbit, no matter how lightly you do it, you have
become a “predator attacking that rabbit.” Nature tells that rabbit to fight back in order to save
its own life. And, in the process, you will likely get bit. Rabbits are not like any other animal
that will tolerate and learn from being reprimanded. It “never” ends well when you hit a rabbit.
Scruffing
The South Florida Rabbit Rescue and the House Rabbit Society advises against scruffing a
rabbit for the following reasons:
1) It stretches the connective tissue and can cause it to tear, causing injury to the rabbit
2) This manner of handling a rabbit imitates being “caught by a predator” and is frightening for
them.
3) Holding a rabbit loosely in this manner can contribute to a broken back, if the rabbit kicks
out hard and hits something or overextends its spine.
There are much better alternatives to handling a rabbit than scruffing.
Understanding the Lagomorph’s Language
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Chinning — Rabbits chins contain scent glands, so they rub their chin on items to indicate
that they belong to them.
Binky — (Dancing and hopping madly): A sign of pure joy & happiness!
Standing on Hind Legs — May be checking something out. Also used for begging.
Flat on the ground, legs spread out to the side or behind — Relaxation, bliss
Upside down, legs in the air — Rabbits will typically do this when in total bliss, and often
after a big bout of binkying.
Territorial droppings — Droppings that are not in a pile, but are scattered, are signs that
this territory belongs to the rabbit. This will often occur upon entering a new environment.
Playing — Rabbits like to push or toss objects around. They may also race madly around
the house, jump on and off of the couch and act like a kid that's had too much sugar.
Thumping — Rabbits often are displeased when you rearrange their stuff. They are
creatures of habit and when they get things just right, they like them to remain that way,
and may thump in anger.
Thumping — He's frightened, mad or trying to tell you that there's danger (in his opinion).
Tooth Grinding — Indicates contentment, like a cats purr. Loud grinding can indicate pain.
Tooth Chattering — Loud grinding or chattering can indicate pain.
Sniffing — May be annoyed or just talking to you. Some unspayed females sniff loudly
when being handled.
Grunts — Usually angry, watch out or you could get bit!
Honking — Sign of horniness, usually in an unneutered male.
Shrill scream — Extreme pain or fear.
Feet circling — Usually indicates sexual behavior. He/She's in love.
Spraying — Males that are not neutered will mark female rabbits in this manner as well as
their territory. Females will also spray.
Pulling out hair; collecting hay — This could be a pregnancy or a false pregnancy. Usually
unspayed females may build a nest & pull hair from their chest and stomach to line nest.
Recommended Supplies
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Never Set a Rabbit “Free”
Wild v. Domestic Rabbits
Please follow the House Rabbit Society’s Guide for differentiating between the two!