SCW Woodshop Hands-On Training Procedure

SCW Woodshop Hands-On Training Procedure
Trainee's Name: ___________________________ Training Date: _______________
Prior to coming to the hands-on portion of this Woodshop Orientation Training, please take
the time to view two important safety videos (found at the links below). You can also find
these links using the Orientation & Training link or clicking on Videos on the SCW Woodshop
web site.
Table Saw Kickback Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7sRrC2Jpp4&feature=youtu.be
Table Saw Saw-Stop Video: https://www.youtube.com/embed/E3mzhvMgrLE
or click on the VIDEO button on the web site.
1. With Chop Saw, cut board to rough length. = (only Prep Maple and Walnut for next class)
• Make sure wood is firmly and straight against back fence.
TIP: Put convex side of bowed board against fence to prevent PINCHING the blade thus
causing a KICKBACK:
• Pull blade toward you, then lower and push the running blade back toward the fence.
• Let blade stop before raising it to avoid KICKBACK.
TIP: On bowed, warped or twisted boards, use clamp or use the bandsaw.
• Keep hands at least six inches (6") from running blade.
TIP: For cutting dowels or round stock, use "V" block jig on a bandsaw.
2. Plane one surface flat on Jointer.
• Put concave surface down, lay board as flat on bed as possible.
• Use pusher designed for Jointer with shorter boards, use rear handle.
• Push toward the fence; use one continuous push.
TIP: If you stop partway through, you'll burn-mark your board.
• Repeat thin cuts of 1 /16" until entre surface is smooth
TIP: Put pencil squiggles along/across board to see when entire surface is ready.
• Don't try to plane short pieces or end grain; use a bell/disc sander instead.
TIP: If you try, it will split or chunk your wood, damage jointer, or you or another.
3. Joint one edge square to planed surface.
• Check if fence is square with bed. Adjust as necessary.
• Make sure the planed surface is tight against the fence. Push in one continuous motion,
or else you will burn-mark your board.
• Repeat thin cute 0f 1/16” until edge is smooth.
TIP: Rear bed moves up and down to control amount of cut. Cutting too much may break
out pieces of grain from the edge or surface.
• If board is taller than fence, push by hand, otherwise use a pusher.
o TIP: Plane only solid wood on Jointer
o No painted or varnished wood – can damage blades and/or vacuum bags. 1
O No plywood, MDF or particleboard. Will split, fly apart or disintegrate.
O No dried glue or loose knots in wood. Could damage blades or break apart.
O No old wood with possible metal. Use metal detector first, by maintenance.
4. Thickness Plane the second surface to ¾” thickness.
 Open vacuum port (close when done), unless you like cleaning up a lot.
 Before starting, insert board jointed side down, into planer and adjust height of table so
board
can be easily inserted and pulled through back of machine.
 Then raise the table one full turn.
 Turn on power then engage the rollers. Insert board, machine will pull through.
• TIP: Keep your fingers away from bottom of board, else you'll get them pinched!
 Raise table one-half (1/2) turn after each cut. Maximum cut should be 1/16".
• TIP: With multiple boards get someone to help offload and pass back. (Monitor?)
 Turn off machine, and then disengage the rollers.
• TIP: can overlap boards side-by-side for continuous feeding without snipe.
5. Rip board to width using FENCE on Table Saw.
 Use measurement on right side of fence, then lock fence in place.
 Largest portion of board should be between fence and blade.
• TIP: Use a feather board, magnetic, placed in front of the leading edge of the saw
blade to help prevent KICKBACK or scorching/nicking your board.
 Push board against fence with push stick, a pusher block or plywood pusher, then push
through
in one continuous motion.
• TIP: Stopping, hesitating or backing out can cause a KICKBACK, and burn or bugger
up your board.
• TIP: Keep pusher closer to the blade than the fence, to have better control of cut.
 Keep cut and work pieces on right side of fence to avoid interference.
• TIP: Cut short, thick, narrow, round or warped wood on a bandsaw or chop saw.
6. Use Table Saw SLED, cut ends at 90º, and board to finished length.
 Hold board flat against sled push handle area, after clearing out any debris.
 Raise blade and align cut mark with blade. Hold handle and push sled.
• TIP: Stop pushing just when cut is done, to avoid exposing blade near hands.
 "Knee off" power switch and wait for blade to stop turning before moving sled, to avoid
damaging your board or KICKING BACK.
7. Draw Cheese Board layout on your board using the template.
8. On Drill Press #70, drill hole with FORSTNER BIT. (@ Slower speed and less heat.)
 Insert the bit, shaft only; tighten chuck using two keyholes to avoid bit slipping.
• TIP: Remove chuck key before starting drill.
 Use backing board to prevent tearing edges of hole at exit, or damaging table.
• TIP: Hold work tight to backing board, and slow movement to get clean exit hole.
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 Adjust table to usable height, then lock table. Use stop gauge on side of drill if necessary
to set correct depth of hole.
 Clamp down small material or when drilling large holes to avoid damaging your fingers.
Place longer work against tubular drive support to prevent spinning.
TIP: Use welding clamp style Vise-Gripes to secure your piece to drill press table.
9. With Band Saw, cut curves and angles outside of lines.
• Lower blade guard-rollers to just above the surface of your wood.
TIP: Reduces blade flex, cuts wood with less wandering, less blade breaking.
• Let blade do the cutting, stay about 1/16" away from the line. Sand later to line.
• Cut straight relief kerfs into areas of tight curves. Back out slowly & safely.
TIP: With tighter curves, use a machine with narrower blade.
10. Surface Sand edges with Disc and Belt, the arcs with Oscillating spindle sander.
 Let the paper do the sanding and use a light touch.
TIP: More pressure doesn't sand faster, heats and burns wood and ruins the paper.
 Jigs are available for square or 45˚ sanding on large discs sanders. Keep moving your
wood to prevent burning it or the disk sandpaper.
TIP: Hold wood firmly on belt sanders, as they can catch your wood and throw it
across the room or jam your fingers.
• On Spindle Sanders, work against the direction of drum rotation.
TIP: Only hand tighten spindle sanding drums when changing diameters; don't
over tighten. (Wrenches are only for loosening over-tight drums).
 Use Crepe Rubber stick to clean all sandpaper when done.
11. Sand both surfaces smooth using a Drum Sander.
• Used to create a surface smoothness in the thickness range of 1/64"
TIP: If you need to thin your stock, use a Thickness Planer instead of damaging
the Velcro on the drum.
 Lower the table to have board pass freely under Drum.
 Turn on Feed Belt only. Insert board and raise table slowly until Sanding drum
just barely turns as the wood passes underneath.
 Before starting, lower table handle by one small mark at handle crank.
TIP: Clearance needed at startup because heat and centrifugal force expands the
Sanding Drum.
 Turn on Drum drive and run board through 3 times before raising table by one (1)
small mark. Continue until smooth.
TIP: Remember; we're Surface Sanding for smoothness, not trying to heat or burn
your wood, or damage the drum.
Next Step Will be Done in the Assembly Room:
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12. GLUE 2 piece of Maple & 1 Walnut to make a new Cheese Board for next group.
TIP: put a length of brown, waxed paper or glue board under your glue area,
unless you like cleaning or scrapping glue off of the table top.
o Place the planed surfaces down, with jointed right angle edges toward each other.
Check the fit for tightness. Those are the edges you will spread a thin layer of
glue onto both edges with your finger or a credit card.
TIP: Put 3 bar clamps on bench & close to correct length before starting to glue.
TIP: On low humidity days, before gluing, wipe edges with a damp paper towel.
o Push the glued boards together, slide back and forth, then clamp using the
short, back ends of the clamps. Snug clamp pressure, but not over-tight.
TIP: Check that all pieces are down tight and even on the bottom side.
o Lift clamps and board assembly after 15-20 minutes and with a damp towel
clean or scrape off all glue & paper. Leave clamps in place at least an hour.
o Glue MUST dry for 24 hours before any machining!
CONGRATULATIONS!
You have finished your Cheese Board, the first piece in your SCW
Woodworking Shop.
Enjoy your time here in "our" shop.
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Orientation
USING Power Machines SAFELY
OBJECTIVES:
1. Learn safe and correct operation of our machines in this shop, then use
the selected machines to make a Cheese Board.
2. Determine:
a) the critical safety concerns for each machine.
b) their consequences if not performed correctly.
c) the learned behaviors we need to learn for each machine.
d) that it's fun and rewarding making things from wood.
PROCESS:
1. (Chop) Saw- Cut New Maple to rough length of 12".
(To prep next month’s boards)
2. Jointer- Plane one surface flat.
3. Jointer- Joint one edge square.
4. Thickness Planner - Surface to ¾” thick.
5. Table Saw- Rip to 5 ½” wide (or your choice)
6. Table Saw - Crosscut ends to 90º with SLED, to final approximate 11" length.
(Your choice)
7. Band Saw - Cut the corners and handle curves.
8. Drill Press - Drill the hanging Hole.
9. Disc. Belt. & Oscillating Sanders - Sand edges, curves.
10. Drum Sander - Surface sand both sides smooth.
11. Glue both Maple and Walnut boards using clamps to prepare Cheese Boards
for next class.
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