the roads - Parmigiano Reggiano

the roads
del
daiRie s an d t e R R i toRy
Oltrepò
Mantovano
Parmigiano
Reggiano
The first guide dedicated to the dairies
under the contribution of
under the patronage of
making Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
in the territory of Mantuan Oltrepò
(the Mantuan region beyond the
river Po).
Buying Parmigiano-Reggiano directly
from the maker becomes the chance to
discover the territory of Mantuan Oltrepò
around the dairy, the real “cradle” of this
gastronomic excellence, and to enjoy the tastiness
of a traditional and natural product, learning about
the unique characteristics of the places that have
contributed in making it so special.
Dedicated to those who are curious and those who
enjoy the pleasures of the table, to those passing
through for leisure or business, to those who know
how to appreciate good things and good food.
This guide is a small travelling companion to learn about the constellation of tastes, art, culture
and nature that shines in the territory of Mantuan
Oltrepò.
the roads
of Parmigiano-Reggiano
dairies and territory in Mantuan Oltrepò
The Roads of Parmigiano-Reggiano
Dairies and territory in Mantuan Oltrepò
(the Mantuan territory beyond the river Po)
© Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese Mantua section
© Eccentrico
reproduction forbidden
Editorial coordination, graphic project, page makeup
Eccentrico
Texts
Francesca Zanetti
Translation
Janet L. Dubbini
Texts from page 22 to page 39
Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Coordination of the pages on the dairies
Franco Gardinazzi
Mantua section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Data collection on the dairies
Mantua section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Photographic credits are given at the end of the volume
Printed by
Grafiche Callegaro (Padova)
Printed in June 2012
Acknowledgements to the Province of Mantua for the collaboration offered
by the Services of Culture and Tourism for the illustrations and the editorial
material provided.
Realized with the co-financement under Measure 133
“Information and promotion actions for quality agricultural and food products in
agreement with the Mantuan Oltrepò Local Development Plan - Local Action Group”
The towns in the Mantuan Oltrepò region where the dairies that
make Parmigiano-Reggiano and sell the cheese retail can be found
General Index
contribution of Giuseppe Alai President of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese9
contribution of Pietro Maria Gattoni President of the Mantua section of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese 11
Reading the guide
13
Ode and Praise to Parmigiano-Reggiano by Patrizio Roversi16
The secrets and the history of Parmigiano-Reggiano
21
Visits to the dairies that make Parmigiano-Reggiano
35
The Mantuan road of Parmigiano-Reggiano by Wainer Mazza38
The Mantuan Oltrepò region
Mantua
Motteggiana
San Benedetto Po
Pegognaga
Gonzaga
Quistello
Villa Poma
Moglia
Mantuan Oltrepò
Sermide
Index of the area
The territory
The dairies
40
44
62
Mantua
70
List of dairy wholesalers
Index of the diaries by their registration number
Thematic index
80
91
93
9
Giuseppe Alai
President of the Consortium
of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
There are no doubts that Parmigiano-Reggiano is very popular: in fact,
surveys show that it is the most well-known cheese worldwide.
However there are aspects connected with this particular cheese which
are not always just as known: its features, its artisan making processes,
the complexity of a system involving many actors, all equally called on
to do an important job and with the great responsibility of making and
offering a product whose strong point is its pure genuineness.
In the centre of this system, which starts from 3,500 livestock farms,
there are almost 400 dairies, distributed in a production district situated
between the rivers Po and Reno: this is where the most well-known
cheese in the world is made, in places and structures where centuriesold traditions are perpetuated and the dairy skills and their secrets are
handed down from generation to generation.
However often little is known about these structures, the actions and the
activities carried out within them, which are an important presence in
the territory for their role both as a work source and in environmental
protection.
The aim of these pages is to turn on new lights of knowledge on this
network of artisan firms, giving readers the opportunity to enter an
extraordinary world where everything is made not only with mastery,
but also with a natural passion.
11
Thematic index
Pietro Maria Gattoni
President of the Mantua Section of the Consortium
of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
The presence of the Lower Mantuan territory within the district where
Parmigiano-Reggiano is made reminds us that traditions and customs go beyond
territorial borders of provinces and regions, taking us back to the past, when the
boundaries used to be identified by the natural trend of rivers, plains, hills and
mountains.
On the east of the river Po, in the Lower Mantuan region, the agronomic,
breeding and cheese processing tradition is aimed at making ParmigianoReggiano, like in the provinces of Parma, Reggio, Modena and Bologna, on the
west of the river Reno.
Nature marks out our district just like its paces and rules affect the ParmigianoReggiano making process handed down from generation to generation.
The aim of this guide is to draw the attention to Mantuan dairies, which are the
makers of our beloved product and gather the values and the passion of the
people determining its excellence.
A hint to understand how the dairies are an integral part of the development of
a territory, its social growth and its environmental protection.
Essential cruxes of a journey made of tastes, culture and art.
My thanks to the institutions that have actively contributed to the realization
of this initiative, which, I am sure, will be helpful for whoever will decide to
undertake a travel at the discovery of a unique product, which in the Lower
Mantuan region has been able to renew itself though remaining closely linked to
tradition.
The Mantua Section
of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
13
Reading the guide
The uniqueness and the many qualities of this cheese are closely connected with
the culture and the nature of a unique territory. Buying Parmigiano-Reggiano
from the maker becomes the chance to discover and rediscover the territory
where such a gastronomic excellence is made.
The territory described in the guide is the Mantuan Oltrepò region (the region
beyond the river Po) and the city of Mantua.
The schematic map allows to locate the dairies that make Parmigiano-Reggiano
and sell the cheese retail. The map also indicates the sights of cultural, artistic and environmental interest present in the area.
The index next to the map refers to more detailed information on the territory and to the charts on the dairies, containing practical informations such as
addresses, opening hours and the products sold besides Parmigiano-Reggiano.
The information is updated to June 2011.
There is also information on the main events and happenings: gastronomy,
recurrences and celebrations, folk feasts and traditions, cultural events; as far as
quality Mantuan gastronomy is concerned, also the agritourism farms and
the didactic farms in the Oltrepò region, the restaurants and the winegrowers adhering to the association “Strada dei Vini e Sapori Mantovani”
(the road of Mantuan wines and tastes) are indicated.
At the end of the volume there is the compendium of the dairies in the province of Mantua that make Parmigiano-Reggiano and sell only wholesale.
At the end of the volume there is also the index of the dairies by registration
numbers.
16
17
Ode and Praise
to Parmigiano-Reggiano
by
Patrizio Roversi
Mantuan PDO, “Tourist and Sailor by chance”
(from the title of two very famous shows he presented on TV)
They say that Parmigiano-Reggiano is good for
you… I can’t say that, it would be a conflict of
interest: I can’t say that Parmigiano-Reggiano is
good for you because I am… made of Parmigiano!
In fact, in some sense, I was brought up on Parmigiano, or better still, to be precise, on Parmigiano
from the Mantuan Oltrepò region. My father, my
grandfather, my uncle and other relatives have
always worked for the Consortium of Reclamation in the territory of Mantua and Reggio Emilia.
I was born and brought up in Mantua, where the
“collective wealth rate” was, and still is, determined by the price of milk at the Thursday market.
If everywhere else people speak in terms of GDP,
Gros Domestic Product, in the Lower Mantuan region, instead, they speak in terms of MDP, Milkdairy Domestic Product.
My father, after his trips in the countryside to
check the level of the irrigation canals, always
used to bring home a piece of Parmigiano or butter, bought directly from the dairies.
I spent a lot of time in a dairy as a child: my
maternal grandfather, in fact, was the keeper for
the Consortium of the weirs of Saino bridge reclamation, in Pegognaga. And the house where
my mother was born was only a few minutes from
the dairy Falconiera. When I was a kid I used to
go and smell the cheese wheels, I used to stand
entranced in front of the shiny copper cauldrons.
I was worried about the brine basins, because I
was afraid I could fall into them. The stacks of
cheese wheels in the storehouse seemed to me
like marvellous towers, fantastic and fragrant
walls.
Then there were the bicycle dogs, the Po version
of sledge dogs: they were very nasty dogs, always
angry. Peasants used to tie them to their bicycles
to help them carry their milk to the dairies in the
evening: my grandmother never stopped warning
me to be careful of those pulling dogs, which, in
fact, used to bite whatever was within their reach.
I was fascinated by the actions of the dairyman
and of the sot-caldera (the helpers), who used to
mix this white, pure and fragrant matter.
I would have liked to be a dairyman, but my father immediately disillusioned me: “It’s a hard
job, of great responsibility! Don’t you know that
if one day the dairyman happens to open a window wrongly in the storehouse where the cheese
is kept to mature then all the wheels get ruined
and a year’s work of a lot of peasants has to be
thrown away?”.
Who knows, maybe I was a “Tourist by chance”
as a homage to the figure of the dairyman…
Maybe I became a comedian, in other words a
joker, because I could not be a dairyman…
But when I had the opportunity as a “Sailor by
chance” to organise a world tour by boat, one
of the sponsors was indeed the Consortium of
Parmigiano-Reggiano.
And I remember that when we met another boat
in the middle of the Atlantic ocean, to celebrate
and make friends, we gave them the most precious things we had: “sweets” of Parmigiano.
There was another Mantuan in the crew, from
Pegonaga, Giacomo. He had brought on board
a packet of tosello (a by-product of ParmigianoReggiano).
When I was a child, tosello was the rarest delicacy - it used to be cut by hand. Today the making
process has changed, tosello is no longer made:
I can find it only in some rare modern dairies
which make it expressly. And the dairy Falconiera
no longer exists. In the area where it used to be
there is now a park (San Lorenzo park), with three small lakes that derive from a quarry and an
agritourism farm that offers activities like horse
riding or botanical routes.
Today Parmigiano is not sold only or mainly in
cuts directly and skilfully obtained from the wheels: you can find it in packets of flakes, snacks,
sweets or even grated, on the counters of large
retailers. And this might cause some old traditionalist dairymen to turn up their nose …
The fact is that Parmigiano-Reggiano, particularly
the one made in the Mantuan Oltrepò region,
does not represent only the past, it represents
also and above all the future: to me Parmigiano a cheese that is never admitted to competitions
for its evident superiority, a product that boasts
innumerable fraudulent imitations - is destined to
drive agriculture.
If it is true that the future of Po agriculture (but
also of Italian and European agriculture) is rather
uncertain, not to say dim - especially as far as
milk is concerned, threatened by the competition
of other countries which produce big quantities
at low quality and price - it is also true that only
very high quality and absolute typicalnesses can
save the entire peasant world, characterized by
skills and traditions.
In a bite of Parmigiano there is everything.
If well absorbed, it is more hallucinogenic than
a Mexican peyote: it causes initiates to have
visions. They see the land, generations of peasants, cowsheds; they see the humid air that
matures, the cows; they smell forage, cheese and
also the cowshed; they see dairies with copper
cauldrons and basins and storehouses; they see
the first cooperatives that made farmers change
their mentality; they even see scenes from great
films, like 1900 by Bertolucci…
And above all they see the future of an agriculture that, to be able to survive, relies on services
to the territory, on the landscape and on tourism,
on the one hand, and on the other invests in the
absolute quality of typicalities to make wine and
food products which will be very difficult to imitate elsewhere.
And if people are not able to see all these things,
then we will have to tell them, communicate
them, like we are doing with this publication.
21
features
of an excellence
the secrets and the history of Parmigiano-Reggiano
22
23
Place of origin
The history of Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO
A CONNECTION WHICH CANNOT BE DISREGARDED
There is a very strong connection between Parmigiano-Reggiano and its place of origin which cannot be disregarded. Parmigiano-Reggiano derives from its territory and from the mastery of man. Today, just like nine centuries
ago, it is still made with the same ingredients (milk, salt, rennet) and the same care and passion, in the same area
of origin. The milk is produced and then converted into cheese in the provinces of
FROM ITS ORIGIN TO THE PRESENT DAY
Parmigiano-Reggiano is one with the territory it derives
from. It is the result of a unique and extraordinary journey
through nine centuries of history which involves still today
the same places and the same technique, to offer an inimitable taste which moves the mind and the heart.
Mantua to the east of the river Po
NINE CENTURIES OF NOBILITY
Parma
Reggio Emilia
Modena
Bologna
to the west of the river Reno
THE SECRET OF SUCH AN EXCELLENCE
This is, in fact, the area where the 3,500 farms where fine milk is produced and the 380 diaries which transform
the milk and mature the cheese for a minimum of 12 months up to over two years, checking each wheel until maturation, are concentrated.
The origins of Parmigiano-Reggiano date back to the
Middle-Ages and are usually set in the Twelfth century.
In the Benedictine monasteries, following Saint Benedict’s
rule “Ora et Labora”, monks carried out farming and cowbreeding activities to work the land and produce meat
and milk.
There were large supplies of this raw material, which was
so precious but at the same time so easily perishable. As a
consequence the need emerged to find a way to produce
a cheese with a longer life.
So the first “caselli”, the local familiar name for dairies, appeared: thanks to the abundance of streams, large pastures and milk produced by the cattle used in the fields, in
this circumscribed area of Emilia they started to produce a
hard cheese of large proportions (at the time each whole
cheese weighed about 16 - 20 kilograms) obtained by
processing the milk in large cauldrons.
From the start this cheese had an important feature: it had
a long life, moreover, the more it matured, the better were
its organoleptic properties.
There is historical evidence that in the thirteenth century the cheese known as “caseus parmensis”, later called
“Parmigiano-Reggiano”, was already widespread and wellknown also outside its area of origin.
1934
TODAY
The ways in which Parmigiano-Reggiano is made have changed throughout the centuries. However the ingredients, the places of origin, the care and the skilful ritual acts are still the same. It is the story of how the
genuineness of Parmigiano-Reggiano is absolutely guaranteed by precise regulations, which are rigorously
self-enforced and observance is strictly controlled.
For over seventy years the Consortium has preserved Parmigiano-Reggiano and for almost nine centuries
this particular cheese has been loved for its generous taste.
24
25
How is
Parmigiano-Reggiano made
MAKING
Every day the milk from the evening milking is left to rest in large vats until the next morning. In the meantime the
fatty part, which is later used to make butter, spontaneously rises to the surface.
As soon as the whole milk from the morning milking arrives from the farms, it is poured together with the evening
skimmed milk in the typical copper cauldrons which have the shape of an upside down bell. Whey, rich in natural
milk enzymes obtained from the previous day’s processing, and natural calf rennet are added.
The milk curdles in about ten minutes.
MATURING AND EXPERTIZATION
The cheese wheels are positioned in rows and rows
in the quiet storerooms. Each one of them has taken
about 550 litres of milk and constant care of cattlemen
and cheese makers. But the work is not over. Left to
rest on wooden boards, the cheese slowly dries and the
crust which was formed during salting, therefore with no
treatments and absolutely edible, takes on a more and
more intense straw colour as time goes by.
Parmigiano-Reggiano has a long but also slow story,
following the natural rhythm of seasons. The minimum
maturing period is twelve months, and it is only at that
point that it is possible to tell if each wheel actually deserves the name it was impressed with originally.
FIRE-BRANDING
After the experts of the Consortium have examined the
wheels one by one and the Control Authority has carried out its verification, the mark is fire-branded on the
wheels which meet the PDO requirements - Protected
Designation of Origin.
All the marks and the dotted writing are removed from
the wheels which do not comply with PDO requirements.
This particular moment is one of the most delicate for
cheese makers, and the most important for consumers:
it is when the product is selected and it is awarded a
certificate of guarantee. On the cheese which is placed
on the market for consumption as fresh (a word that
could sound strange referred to a product which has
been already maturing for a year) parallel lines are cut
so it can be immediately recognized by consumers. This
is a second class Parmigiano-Reggiano known as “Mezzano”. At 18 months, upon voluntary request, the mark
“Extra” or “Export” can be branded on the wheels prior
to a further control.
Once the curd is formed, it is broken into tiny granules using a very old tool called “spino”.
The curd is then cooked at the temperature of 55 degrees centigrade and at the end of this process the granules
fall to the bottom of the cauldron, aggregating into one single mass. After about fifty minutes, the cheese mass is
extracted by the cheese maker with skilful movements, it is cut into two sections, wrapped in a cloth and put in a
cheese mould which will give it its cylindrical shape.
With the application of a casein plate, each whole cheese is given a unique and progressive registration number
which is just like an identity card.
After a few hours, with a special branding band, each wheel is impressed with the month and the year it was made,
the dairy’s registration number and the unmistakable dotted inscription all around the circumference.
Within a few days the wheels are immersed in a water and salt saturated solution.
In this way the cheese is salted by absorption. Salting takes almost twenty days, after which the production cycle
finishes and maturation starts, a just as fascinating stage.
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27
Since Parmigiano-Reggiano is lactose free, its taste and
energy supply can be benefited also by those who suffer from lactose intolerance.
It takes 16 litres of fine milk from the place of origin to
make one kilogram of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
A nutritional charge of proteins, vitamins, phosphorous
and calcium which is concentrated in the texture, throu-
Nutritional
information
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard granular cheese with a
long maturing period. It contains only 30% water and
over 70% nourishments: this is the reason why this
cheese is so rich in proteins, vitamins and minerals.
Exceptionally good, easily digestible, totally natural:
Parmigiano-Reggiano never loses an opportunity to
excel
ghout both the making and the long maturing period
of the cheese.
Natural aging makes Parmigiano-Reggiano easy to digest and develops a complexity of extraordinary aromas and tastes.
Typical values per 100g of Parmigiano-Reggiano
WATER
TOTAL PROTEINS
FAT
ENERGY VALUE
SODIUM CHLORIDE
CALCIUM
PHOSPHOROUS
SODIUM
POTASSIUM
MAGNESIUM
ZINC
VITAMIN A
VITAMIN B1
VITAMIN B2
VITAMIN B6
VITAMIN B12
VITAMIN PP
PANTOTHENIC ACID
CHOLINE
BIOTIN
30,8g
33,0 g
28,4g
392 kcal
1,39 g
1160mg
680mg
650mg
100mg
43mg
4mg
270 mcg
34 mcg
370 mcg
110 mcg
4,2 mcg
55 mcg
32 mcg
40mg
23mcg
BENEFICIAL FOR ALL AGES
Parmigiano-Reggiano is the perfect ally for your health
and your psychophysical well-being.
Rich in nourishments, it is essential for children’s
growth, for teenagers’ and elderly people’s health and
provides ready to use energy for those who practice
sports.
Since the Eighties Parmigiano-Reggiano is believed to
have a bifidogenic factor which makes it particularly
suited for new born babies’ diets. In fact, its prebiotic
effects, which feed probiotic bacteria, modulate intestinal flora and the intestinal flora itself, made up of a
complex ecosystem partly depending on the nourishing
substances introduced with the diet, plays an important
role on some metabolic functions and on resistance to
bacterial infections.
A LONG MATURING WHICH GIVES FLAVOUR AND DIGESTIBILITY
SLIVERS OF FLAVOUR AND HEALTH IN A BALANCED DIET
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a resource we are offered by
nature and by man’s work to reconcile health and taste
within a balanced diet. It is not just delicious, it is also
healthy and nourishing, the result of a long production
tradition and of a strong connection with its territory of
origin, which have made it one of the symbols of the
“Made in Italy”.
The cheese is made from partially skimmed milk; this
lipid component of Parmigiano-Reggiano is nutritionally
precious in terms of the ready to use energy provided
by its free fraction. Parmigiano-Reggiano is particularly
rich in calcium, very biavailable, and is an important
source of phosphorous: 50 g can provide 50% of an
adult’s recommended daily intake (RDI).
Parmigiano-Reggiano is extremely rich in peptides and
in free amino acids, therefore easily assimilated, deriving from a slow conversion of casein, a protein from
milk. These compounds are formed during the long maturing period and determine the organoleptic characteristics of the cheese, facilitating its digestion.
Maturing is essential for Parmigiano-Reggiano to develop its aromas and texture.
According to specification, the cheese can be called
Parmigiano-Reggiano only after it has matured at least
twelve months.
Cheese makers and experts from the Consortium say
that the cheese must mature for two Summers, in other
words it must undergo two years of enzymatic transformations that change its texture and that in summer,
thanks to the heat, are more intense.
Such transformations, due to the enzymes released by
lactic bacteria, consist mainly in the breakdown of the
protein chain of the cheese. The proteins of cheese
(i.e. caseins) are broken down into many small segments, until amino acids, the fundamental bricks, are
partially released.
This is the reason why Parmigiano-Reggiano is more
digestible than other cheeses.
Fats undergo similar transformations and they too become more easily absorbable.
It is this molecular variety that determines the richness
of aromas and smells which make Parmigiano-Reggiano unique and inimitable. Such complexity is reached
absolutely naturally, with no addition of additives that
could alter or modify the raw material: milk.
By undergoing biological maturing processes, Parmigiano-Reggiano reaches its peak of fragrance and of
typical organoleptic properties in the maturing period
ranging from 24 to 36 months.
Beyond this period, the protein breakdown processes
can make the texture more and more granular, almost
chalky and highly soluble; the smells tend to fade and
fats maturation can make the cheese almost sharp.
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29
Guide for buyers
THE SAFEGUARDING CONSORTIUM
DE
SIGNATIO
N
OF
ORIGI
N
TO PRESERVE TYPICALNESS
The Consortium brings together all the dairies which make Parmigiano-Reggiano.
It is officially in charge of putting the identifying marks on the cheese wheels
certified by a third Control Authority, in compliance with the specification of PDO
(Protected Designation of Origin).
It is in charge also of making sure that the marks are used correctly and of protecting the cheese against imitations.
Furthermore, the Consortium aims at spreading and promoting knowledge and
consumption of Parmigiano-Reggiano and at perfecting and improving its quality
in order to preserve its peculiar features.
OTECTED
PR
protein breakdown processes carried out by enzymes.
Therefore the presence of tyrosine crystals is no doubt
an empirical sign - which can be verified from everyone’s experience - of a good maturing of ParmigianoReggiano.
•
What are those tiny granules you feel under your teeth
when eating a piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano?
They are crystals of a particular amino acid, i.e. tyrosine, that, because of its molecular conformation, when it
is in free and in concentrated form tends to crystallize.
This amino acid is released amongst others during the
•
TYROSINE CRYSTALS, VALUABLE SIGNS OF A GOOD MATURING
PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO PDO
PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO IS A PROTECTED DESIGNATION OF ORIGIN CHEESE
This means that, for its peculiarities and for its connection with its place of origin, it is guaranteed by a set of EU
regulations aiming at safeguarding both consumers and cheese makers.
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a totally natural cheese, famous worldwide as the “King of cheeses” because of its making
method and of its nutritional and organoleptic properties.
Its making is regulated by strict production standards, registered with the EU competent bodies.
For this reason the mark Parmigiano-Reggiano can be branded exclusively on a cheese that:
IT IS ITS NATURALNESS THAT CHARACTERIZES PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
FROM OTHER HARD CHEESES
Parmigiano-Reggiano is a hard cheese, but with peculiar features which make it different and unique compared with other hard cheeses.
Such features are basically due to the milking cows’
diet and are the result of precise choices made by the
producers belonging to the Consortium.
In fact, in the second post war period - when agriculture was undergoing profound production changes - producers decided to set some rules to preserve the traditional aspects of milk and cheese making connected
with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Since the very first Feeding Regulation for cows
in1957 it was decided to feed milking cows on local
forages, conserved according to the traditional method
of desiccation (i.e. haymaking), and to forbid the use
of fermented forages, such as maize silages.
Therefore Parmigiano-Reggiano is made using a milk
that has its own microbiological balance and no recourse to additives is necessary. That is why we speak
about the naturalness of Parmigiano-Reggiano. In fact,
its microbiologic base, typical of the area of origin, is
constituted by the lactic bacteria that are naturally present in milk and their development and activity must be
favoured during dairy transformation. This is the reason
why Parmigiano-Reggiano is real synthesis between
nature and skill.
• has been made and processed exclusively in the area of origin
• has been made according to old traditional artisan methods, defined by strict regulations (Product specification,
European Regulation EEC 2081/92 and recognition of Commission Regulation EC 1107/96 replaced by Regulation
EC 510/06), which establish precise making methods (Production Standard), a controlled diet for the milking cows
(Feeding regulation for dairy cows) and rules for qualitative selection and marking of the cheese wheels (Marking
regulation).
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31
The selection identifies three categories of cheese:
BRANDS AND MARKS
Since Parmigiano-Reggiano is a Protected Designation of Origin product (PDO), only the cheese wheels that have been
made according to the Production specification can be actually called Parmigiano-Reggiano and can have the identifying
marks and brands impressed on them. These marks and brands, which identify and characterize the cheese as a PDO
product, are distinguished in marks of origin and marks of selection.
THE MARKS OF ORIGIN, which are impressed when the cheese is first made, are:
THE BRANDS OF ORIGIN
(IMPRESSED WITH A BRANDING BAND)
all around the lateral surface of the wheel with:
• the dotted writing PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
• the writings DOP (PDO) and CONSORZIO TUTELA
(THE SAFEGUARDING CONSORTIUM)
• the dairy’s registration number
• the month and year of production
THE CASEIN PLATE
applied on the cheese wheel with:
• the writing CFPR
(Consorzio Formaggio Parmigiano-Reggiano)
• the identifying alphanumeric code
of each single wheel
• the Datamatrix label for optical reading
THE MARK OF SELECTION After a maturing period of
about 12 months all the wheels produced undergo a
selection (expertization).
Once the experts from the Consortium have examined
the wheels and the PDO authority has released its certification, the Consortium impresses the mark of selection indelibly on the wheels.
In fact, the Consortium has the Parmigiano-Reggiano
PDO marks, and the Consortium is responsible for classifying the cheese wheels according to the different
categories during the selection for PDO compliance
and for controlling that the marks are used correctly.
The first category: Parmigiano-Reggiano, that is the cheese with a hard texture and the
features complying with the specification (first grade-zero-one), suitable to undergo the long
maturing to be appreciated both in direct consumption as table cheese and in gastronomic
preparations as grated cheese. On the wheels the marks of origin (the dotted writing and the
casein plate) are impressed and the oval mark is fire-branded.
The second category: Parmigiano-Reggiano Mezzano, (medium grade), that is the cheese that has some defects of slight or medium entity in its texture and/ or in the rind, which
however do not alter the typical organoleptic properties of the product.
Direct consumption as table cheese is suggested. The wheels are still impressed with the oval
fire-branded mark of selection “Parmigiano-Reggiano”, however, to distinguish them from the
first selection ones, parallel lines are indelibly cut in the lateral surface of the wheels.
The third category: defined “reject”, that is the cheese that, having considerable defects, does not meet the “Parmigiano-Reggiano” specification requirements. These wheels are
downgraded by removing the marks of origin by milling the rind (some millimetres of rind are
removed). So this cheese has no reference to PDO.
A FURTHER SELECTION: THE MARKS “EXTRA” AND “EXPORT”
Upon voluntary request of the owner of a wheel that has already qualified as ParmigianoReggiano and that has been maturing for at least 18 months, the Consortium carries out a
further expertization.
On the wheels that are “selected” the mark EXTRA or EXPORT is impressed, offering both
dealers and consumers a further indication of the quality of the cheese.
These marks can be reproduced also on the packaging containing the cheese.
THE MARKS ON PRE-PACKED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
WHEEL AND WEDGE
The wheel and wedge with the writing PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO on a black
background is the selling trademark and the compulsory identification and
recognition reference of pre-packed Parmigiano-Reggiano.
MEZZANO
The pre-packed portions from the medium grade “Mezzano” wheels can
be distinguished by the trademark which, besides the logo with the wheel
and the wedge, has also the writing “MEZZANO” on a green strip.
EXTRA and EXPORT
For the pre-packed portions of cheese from the wheels that have qualified
as EXTRA or EXPORT, below the logo with the wheel and the wedge there
is a gold colour strip with the writings extra or export.
32
33
THE STAMPS
THREE SEASONINGS, THREE VARIATIONS OF TASTES, AROMAS AND SMELLS
The long period of maturing imparts Parmigiano-Reggiano extraordinary features which differ according to the length
of the maturing period itself. For this reason a system of coloured stamps was introduce to assist consumers in the
choice of the product.
Starting from 2007, for transparency and information for consumers, three coloured stamps have been introduced to
identify the different maturing periods of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
The red stamp: for the cheese with over 18 month maturing
Rather distinct milk base, with vegetable notes such as grass, boiled vegetables
and, sometimes, flowers and fruit.
Matching: ideal served in slivers in salads or diced for aperitifs, preferably paired
with dry white wines and matched with fresh fruit such as pears and green apples.
The silver stamp: for the cheese with over 22 month maturing
The aromas are more intense, notes of melted butter and fresh fruit can be appreciated, citrus fruits and hints of dried fruit can be detected. The cheese reaches a
balance of sweet and sharp, and it is perfectly soluble, friable and granular.
Matching: perfect with well structured red wines. Excellent served in “petals” in
fruit salads dressed with traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena or Reggio Emilia.
Ideal matched with any dried fruit, superb with plums and figs.
The gold stamp: for the cheese with over 30 month maturing (extra-strong)
This cheese, the richest in nutritional value, is drier, more friable and granular. The
taste is stronger and the aromas are more complex. The notes of spices and dried
fruit are predominant.
Matching: with both full-bodied, well structured red wines and white passiti or
white meditation wines. Matching with honey is recommended, pairing with traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena or Reggio Emilia is perfect.
Cutting and preserving
HOW TO CUT PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
THE ALMOND SHAPED KNIFE
To cut Parmigiano-Reggiano you must use the peculiar
tool. It is the typical knife with a short and sharp blade
with the shape of an almond. So the cheese wheel is not
actually cut but opened, to keep the texture and natural
granulosity intact.
HOW TO OPEN THE CHEESE WHEEL
Using the tip of the almond shaped knife a line is traced
dividing the wheel in half, along the diameter of both the
two flat faces and continuing along the lateral surfaces.
Along this line the rind is inserted with the knife penetrating here and there for a few centimeters: at the two
extremities of the diameter of one of the faces, halfway
down the lateral surface, two almond shaped knives are
plunged in vigorously. In this way, with the knives working
as wedges, the strength used allows the wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano to be opened in two perfect halves. This
procedure requires experience and attention because the
wheel opens perfectly in half only if the internal structure
of the cheese has been able to oppose the same resistance on both the halves. Also the following cuts, such
as portioning, must be carried out according to this same
method.
So, one half is then divided into two identical parts, which
are then divided in two other identical parts. In this way
the pieces of Parmigiano-Reggiano obtained from the
wheel have the same proportions of texture and rind.
HOW TO PRESERVE PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Because of its structure and its low content of water,
Parmigiano-Reggiano is one of the best long life cheeses. And its long life is actually the peculiar feature
which has contributed to its reputation throughout the
centuries.
HOW TO PRESERVE VACUUM PACKED PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
Vacuum packed Parmigiano-Reggiano can be kept in
the fridge at a temperature between 4 and 8 degrees
centigrade. It is important to make sure that the packaging is sealed and intact, and that the cheese is not
exposed to air. The cold chain must be maintained so
that the organoleptic properties of the cheese are not
altered.
HOW TO PRESERVE PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO
FRESHLY CUT OR ONCE THE VACUUM PACK HAS
BEEN OPENED
When you buy a piece of freshly cut Parmigiano-Reggiano or once you have opened the vacuum pack, the cheese must be kept in the fridge at a temperature between
4 and 8 degrees centigrade, taking care of replacing the
original pack with appropriate containers.
Parmigiano-Reggiano preserves intact its organoleptic
properties if it is stored:
• at the right level of humidity (the cheese tends to dry
in a ventilated fridge)
• separately from other food (the fatty part of the cheese tends to absorb the smells in the fridge)
Therefore the use of glass or plastic containers is recommended.
Another practical solution is to wrap Parmigiano-Reggiano in canvas bags for alimentary use.
In this way the cheese can be stored a long time, always
remembering to check from time to time that maintaining conditions are not altered.
The cheese should never be frozen.
34
35
A postage stamp dedicated
to Parmigiano-Reggiano
Visits to the dairies
of Parmigiano-Reggiano
You have to see to know
Undisputed symbol of the Italian excellence and of
the national agriculture and food sector appreciated
worldwide.
This is the reason why Poste Italiane (the Italian
Postal Service) dedicated one of the four new
postage stamps of the series “Made in Italy” to
Parmigiano-Reggiano. The other three stamps are
dedicated to other three PDO cheeses: Gorgonzola
cheese, Buffalo mozzarella from Campania and Ragusano cheese.
On 25th March 2011 the Philatelic office of Poste Italiane in Reggio Emilia (the issuing town) and
some philatelic offices in Parma issued the stamps.
In addition, they released a postcard and a philatelic card dedicated to Parmigiano-Reggiano and the
presentation brochure with the text written by the
Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Furthermore Poste Italiane dedicated a special philatelic cancellation to the stamp
and the postcards.
The issuing of the stamp, that will be forever in the history of philately, is a prestigious way to promote Parmigiano-Reggiano, unanimously considered one of the most popular Italian products in the world and amongst the most representative of “Made in Italy”. The issuing of this special postage stamp is also a significant celebration of the one hundred and
fiftieth anniversary of Italian unification, enhancing the uniqueness and the value of the national high quality products.
The Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano offers the opportunity to make guided visits to the dairies in the province of Mantua to see the cheese makers at work, repeating the antique actions of milk processing.
Visitors will be led to the discovery of a true “living myth”, from its birth, which happens only once a day, to the
long and slow maturing in the maturing store rooms.
Guided visits are free and held from Monday to Friday.
Visits start by 8.30 am
and take about two hours
For further information you can contact:
tel. 0376.327621 fax 0376.322502
email: [email protected]
For the production provinces of Bologna, Modena, Parma and Reggio Emilia
visit the website: www.parmigiano-reggiano.it
38
39
The Mantuan road
of Parmigiano-Reggiano
by
Wainer Mazza
Poet and storyteller
Le strade sono tante
le vie ancor di più
e molte se le segui
ti fanno andar su e giù.
E vanno incontro al mare
per passi di montagna
ti aprono al mondo
e ai sapori di campagna.
Per noi quella che conta
è in terra mantovana
e parla già da secoli
di un formaggio di gran fama.
Che ha sulle sue forme
preziosi quei puntini
e ci fa scoprir di terre
e di caseifici.
Che fanno quel formaggio
dal marchio Parmigiano
e il nome si completa
col pronunciar Reggiano.
Onore alle province
in cui c’è produzione
che danno alla vita
ancora più valore.
Son Parma, Reggio, Modena
e già anche Bologna
con Mantova in destra Po
che subito s’intona.
E fa sentire il peso
di lavoro e di esperienze
e in fatto di formaggio
dimostra competenze.
Con belle realtà che sono in produzione
e a un prodotto d’eccellenza aggiungono valore.
Ci piace allora qui
portarne in vista i nomi
tracciarne un profilo
e dir di luoghi e amori.
Che son per la campagna
le vacche e il bianco latte
veder le forme nascere
Si vende il gran formaggio
preziose e sì ben fatte.
ma pure dei salumi
Andremo per rispetto prodotti della zona
in ordin di matricola
riflessi nei costumi.
la certificazione
Società Cooperativa
ha passaggi da graticola.
Agricola e Zootecnica
Ed ecco siamo a Moglia
diciamo che Portiolo
in quella via Croce
proprio se lo merita.
Visconti, i fratelli
Di tipo familiare
fanno sentir la voce.
si fa coi propri mezzi
Con grande esperienza
il latte in sicurezza
si vende e si produce
e mai prodotti incerti.
le forme in proporzione
Restiamo sempre in zona
vedono la luce.
siam già a Villa Saviola
Siam già a Torricella
con Gonfo Latteria
il nome è La Pirondac’è produzione a iosa.
e della qualità
Di burro e Parmigiano
qui si cavalca l’onda.
per una lunga storia
Il Po è lì vicino
di una cooperativa
e forse dà una mano
ch’è assurta a giusta gloria.
perché sia all’altezza
Ancora a Pegognaga del marchio Parmigiano.
in via Viola Sacca
Si arriva a Pegognaga
c’è un tempio del benessere
a quelle Caramascheche Croce il nome impatta.
che come società
Caldaie fino a trenta
antiche ha quelle vasche.
in zona amena e cara
Si va all’ottocento
sicuro quel formaggio
ma è al passo con i tempi
che vanta bontà rara.
formaggio, burro e panna
Poggio Rusco in via Segonda
per far tutti contenti.
ha preziosa latteria
Suzzara ha Magazzini Arrivabene porta il nome
che si chiamano Emiliani negli anni trenta prende il via.
e qui ancor formaggio
Sono dodici i suoi soci
si stagiona a piene mani.
bene uniti ed informati
Rispetto e tradizione
l’edificio è rinnovato
sei là in via Pasine
e dà buoni risultati.
col gruppo Bergamaschi
San Girolamo all’inizio
sicure son le stime.
ma adesso è Sant’Antonio
La Latteria Vò Grande casearia a tutto tondo
risale agli anni trenta
che produce un patrimonio.
la vedi sulla strada
Siamo ancora a Pegognaga
la gente ne è contenta.
in via Chiaviche, signori
con orgoglio e gran lavoro
il formaggio, quello buono
ci ricorda la sua saga.
qui esprime i suoi valori.
Latteria di prestigio
Produzione in grande stile
risalente agli anni trenta
in via Roncore a Bondeno
latteria Venera Vecchia di produrre Parmigiano
lei giammai non s’accontenta.
di presenza lascia il segno.
Con La Frizza Pegognaga
Quarantotto le caldaie
fa sentir la sua potenza
venti soci conferenti
venticinque sono i soci
produzione annuale molto attivi e all’altezza.
batte i records precedenti.
Qui davvero quelle forme
E restiamo qui a Bondeno
quasi arrivano al cielo
ci addentriamo alle Marzette
Parmigiano e Reggiano
che in fatto di bontà
dappertutto lascia il segno.
già raggiunge delle vette.
Latteria Nuova San Carlo
Suggestivo il luogo e il fare
là vicino all’abbazia
per produrre il buon formaggio
già da tempo conquistati
e con burro e le caciotte
ha il prestigio e la stima.
sei portato all’assaggio.
Qui il piccolo è buono
Ci spostiamo a Palidano
e cadenze d’altri tempi
e Begozzo è Latteria
una scaglia di formaggio
rinnovato è l’impianto
rende tutti più contenti.
sempre lungo quella via.
In via Ronchi a Palidano
Centomila i quintali
Latteria Mortaretta
son di latte lavorati
dai fratelli Ballesini
c’è lo spaccio in funzione
ogni giorno una ricetta.
per prodotti assai fidati.
Con lo spaccio nel reggiano
E col fondo di Sacchetta
ben completa è la proposta
ci troviamo a Bondanello
mozzarelle e salumi
Natura Agricola presente
per noi tutti fanno apposta.
là in via Arginello.
Dal sessanta c’è Rocchetta
Il formaggio, quello buono
latteria nel sociale
i salami, le mostarde
che il suo peso fa sentire
miele, burro e caciotte
in Suzzara capitale.
tradizioni mai spezzate.
Dal duemila il magazzino
Nuvolato e la sua Pieve
è capiente e funzionale
con un carico di storia
Latteria San Fiorentino e la sala del buon latte
già si pensa a migliorare.
da tenere in memoria.
Carlo Poma latteria
Qui si vende il Parmigiano
già col nome lascia il segno
anche il burro e la ricotta
sostanzioso e importante
di bontà qualificate
è quel suo allevamento.
convien farne buona scorta.
Carni fresche, insaccati
Via Coazze a Villa Poma
e formaggi di giornata
ci segnala l’Andreasi
produzione contenuta
che da quel cinquantaquattro
ma per questo di sostanza.
non ha certo altri rivali.
Latteria Agricola di Quistello
Per rispetto di principi
è struttura bella e nuova
per quel latte trasformato
produzione di formaggio
che alla sua cooperativa
da trovare sempre a iosa.
dà sostegno e risultato.
In via Cappe puoi sostare
Mantovana Vecchia a Polesine
c’è esperienza e volontà
sempre sotto a Pegognaga
tanti soci ormai protesi
a raggiunger qualità.
Ancor qui a San Benedetto
noi troviam la San Martino
latteria adagiata
dove c’è Bugno Martino.
Il formaggio, ma anche burro
con lo spaccio sempre open
ma di sabato e domenica
c’è il riposo quasi certo.
San Giuseppe Latteria
ci fa star a Bugno Martino
parmigiano e reggiano
già da tempo nel destino.
Terra e luoghi qui votati
son da tempo a quel formaggio
che i frati in Polirone già provavano all’assaggio.
Siamo a Moglia sul confine
e Mogliese è latteria
oramai tutti convinti che di meglio non ci sia.
Con impianti innovativi
tanto latte lavorato
e i prodotti più richiesti
bene in vista nello spaccio.
Ecco alfin che il nostro viaggio
per adesso qui si ferma
senza dubbi, ne patemi
porta a casa una conferma.
Di un prodotto d’eccellenza
conosciuto in tutto il mondo
la sua forma, il suo profilo
certamente è sul tondo.
Ventisei caseifici
ci hanno dato chiare prove
e il voto conquistato
certamente è sul nove.
Contadini e casari
tutti insieme a costruire
un legar di tradizioni
che vogliamo benedire.
Su una terra piatta e verde
tra gran corti e nei loghini
parmigiano e reggiano
a unir tanti destini.
Nel lavoro, la famiglia
in cucina e in compagnia
passa qui, vieni a trovarci
ben tracciata è ormai la via.
Flowering along the Po river bank
the centuries old plain
along the river
water and land, history and culture
form a fascinating mosaic
Index Territory and Dairies
Motorway A22
River MINCIO
Territory
Mantua
Autostrada A22
1 Gonzaga’s millenarian fair
River PO
Fiume MINCIO
Mantova
9
Pegognaga
Schivenoglia
River MINCIO
1537
Motorway A22
1829
1714
1579
Moglia
2 Po
S. Benedetto
Motteggiana
9
10
1829
River PO
Schivenoglia
1714
Moglia
1721
2
Pegognaga
Schivenoglia
S. Giacomo
di Segnate
Gonzaga
Moglia
River SECCHIA
LEGEND
arts - culture
nature - environment - activities
curiosities
restaurants and winegrowers
agritourism and didactic farms
Sermide
Revere
Quingentole
Pieve di Coriano
Villa Poma
8
Felonica
Borgofranco sul Po
with tagliatelle and almonds)
p.44
p.45
1537 Cas. Fratelli Visconti
p.62
1559 Cas. Caramasche
p.62
1567 Latt. Vo’ Grande
p.63
2 Land reclamation ecomuseump.45
1579 Latt. Soc. Gonfop.63
A hot sweet mustard
p.47
1714 Latt. Agr. Marzettep.64
An American in Mantua p.47
1720 Latt. Agr. Begozzop.64
Tortelli di zucca (ravioli-like pasta
filled with pumpkin)
p.48
3 San Lorenzo Park
p.48
4 One of Matilda’s churches p.49
5 The flood plains at the mouth
of the Secchia
p.50
7 Polirone Abbey
p.51
Mantuan Lambrusco PDO
p.52
The Mantuan melon
and the onion of Sermide
1721 Natura Agricola
p.65
1724 Latt. San Fiorentino
p.65
1829 Latt. Mortaretta
p.66
1831 Latt. Soc. Carlo Pomap.66
1832 Latt. Agr. Quistellop.67
1833 Latt. Agr. San Martinop.67
1834 Latt. Agr. San Giuseppep.68
1835 Latt. Agr. Mogliesep.68
p.53
8 Archaeology and nature along the Pop.53
Carbonara di Po
Magnacavallo
Poggio Rusco
S. Giovanni
del Dosso
The dairy retailers
6 Saint Florentine and the Gorni Museump.51
Magnacavallo 1835
Poggio Rusco
S. Giovanni
del Dosso
Sustinente Serravalle
a Po
Sermide
SECCHIA
FiumeQuistello
Suzzara
11
Villa Poma
S. Benedetto Po
Motteggiana
La torta di tagliatelle (a cake made
Carbonara di Po
S. Giacomo
di Segnate
1
1537
Felonica
12
Pieve di Coriano
1831
8
Borgofranco sul Po
Revere
5
1832
River SECCHIA
6
1559
Gonzaga
Magnacavallo 1835
Sermide
Villa Poma
Quingentole
1834 1833 Quistello
1567
1720
Carbonara di Po
11
1724
7
3
4
SuzzaraMantua
Pegognaga
12
S. Giacomo
Poggio Rusco
di Segnate
Serravalle
Sustinente
S. Giovanni
1721
a Po
Sermide
del Dosso
1
Gonzaga
Borgofranco sul Po
Pieve di Coriano
1831
1832
1567
1720
Fiume PO
6
1559
Sermide
Revere
5
Quingentole
1834 1833 Quistello
3
4
10
Serravalle
a Po
1724
7
Motteggiana
Suzzara
Sustinente
S. Benedetto Po
1579
mantuan oltrepò
43
mantuan oltrepò
42
Sermide
Felonica
9 A different prize
p.54
10 San Colombano Park
p.55
11 Ghisione Romanesque Oratory
p.56
The typical Mantuan pear
p.56
Along the road of the truffle
p.57
Sbrisolona (a typical cake with almonds)
p.57
Events
& Happenings
p.58
Restaurants and winegrowers
along the road of Mantuan
wines and tastes
p.60
Agritourism and didactic
farms
p.61
45
The plain
along the river
Water and land, history and culture
form a fascinating mosaic
The green geometry of the Oltrepò countryside is furrowed by watercourses that flow like life blood. This territory has an ancient history, written
by man’s perpetual struggle against water. The first major reclamation work
was realized by the Benedictines in the Middle Ages. Moving along the
banks and the canals the draining pumps, siphon bridges and big plants
that drastically changed the future of this plain can be found. Extraordinary
art and culture testimonies enrich the unique identity of Mantuan Oltrepò:
the Benedictine Polirone Abbey, the churches built by Matilda and the original Suzzara Prize are only some aspects of its complex and fascinating
character. Ancient and excellent wine and food traditions combined with
typical quality products make these places a tasty place to stop off.
Gonzaga’s millenarian fair
of the event. And to this day every year in September the appointment with the millenarian fair is
repeated, transforming Gonzaga into an important
reference point for the agriculture, zootechnical and
agroindustrial sectors, in addition to the arts and crafts,
show and gastronomic ones.
“Once upon a time there was Gonzaga”, instead, is
dedicated to those who love collecting, antiques and
vintage objects. The interesting fair is held along the
streets in the city centre and in the shade of the to-
wers, which to this day still testify the greatness of
the House of Gonzaga, and it always attracts a lot of
enthusiasts. The calendar of the event is available at
www.ceraunavoltagonzaga.it or at the Philatelic, Numismatic and Hobby Club.
INFORMATION
Mantua > Suzzara > Gonzaga
piazza Matteotti, 10 tel. 0376 58729
[email protected] www.fieramillenaria.it
Oltrepò tastes: la Torta di Tagliatelle
This special cake, typical of Mantuan Oltrepò and diffused also in the
Lower Modenese plain, was already made in the nineteenth century. The
preparation of la Turta Tajadleina is not easy.
The main ingredient is egg tagliatelle, the same tagliatelle people usually
eat with ragù (a meat sauce) or in broth, but in a sweetened version, in an
unusual but surprisingly tasty matching with almonds and butter.
Ingredients: 300g white flour, 3 egg yolks, 200g sugar, 200g shelled
and chopped almonds, 70g butter, a small glass of dry liqueur.
Preparation: knead the classic pastry using the flour and the yolks and
one level tablespoon of sugar, cut the pastry into thin strips, like the ones
used for broth. Mix the almonds with the sugar. Put a thin layer of tagliatelle in a buttered cake tin, then a layer of almond and sugar, distributing
some flakes of butter here and there and a splash of liqueur. In the end
there should be 3 layers of tagliatelle interspersed with the almonds.
Cook in the oven at 180° for about 40 mins, until the cake is golden
brown.
The history of a land “in soak” and the Land reclamation ecomuseum
In 1448, while he was horse riding to Reggiolo, Francesco II Gonzaga was violently thrown from his saddle.
Having miraculously escaped from death, he wanted to
show his gratitude to the Virgin by dedicating a feast
day, 8th September, to her. On that day he granted the
possibility to trade and exchange goods without having
to pay any tax. From then on every year on Mary’s
nativity a great fair with goods and popular en-
tertainments has been organised. There was the
palio, an ancient horse race, a lot of merchants’ and
barkers’ stalls with their curious merchandise and the
people had the opportunity to alleviate the harshness
of everyday life thanks to the many tumblers and musicians. The volume of deals made during the fair grew
more and more considerable for the Mantuan territory,
insomuch that the rulers had to regulate the execution
The toponym Moglia is soaked in water: it derives from
the Latin molleus, which means muddy, subject to water stagnation: the name holds the story of a place
where man had to fight to conquer the land to live
and work on. Therefore it is not a wonder that Moglia’s geographical peculiarity lies in its position at the
confluence of many reclamation canals, all gravitating
around the river Secchia. Thanks to the industrious effort of generations, the Moglia district has been the
object of a really impressive hydraulic and agricultural
reclamation. Here with difficulty the land has been saved from the water that invaded it and has been made
healthy and fertile, in one word, it has been reclaimed.
In Europe, Italy is second to Holland in the fraction of
land reclaimed.
The works to drain the Moglia district started in 1919
and the person in charge for the project, Engineer
Prampolini, was later entrusted also with the reclamation work of the Pontine Marshes in the Lazio region.
The figures relating to the reclamation of the
area around Parma and Moglia give something
to think about: within about five years, in addition to the many and imposing hydraulic works
for the lifting and captation of water, sometimes
on pre-existing constructions dating back to the
sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, over 1,300
mantuan oltrepò
44
A hot sweet mustard
km of canals were realized, 10 million cubic metres of land were moved,150 bridges were built.
The method devised by Eng. Prampolini planned to separate the high waters from the low ones, so that
the canals coming from the higher territories did not
pour their waters into the lower lands. As a result two
different collectors discharge into the Secchia, the first
one in Mondine and the second one in San Siro di San
Benedetto: the difference between the canalizations is
evident because the sides of the collectors for the high
waters are protected by the banks. A dense network
of canals that interweave thanks to water pumps and
siphon bridges, constructions by means of which the
canals of the low waters pass below those of the high
waters, the big water pump plants, beautiful to look at,
the devastating effects of the floods... The relationship
between man, land, water and history is a fascinating
world which can now be discovered and explored live
thanks to the Land reclamation museum, a project
that enhances the territory and man’s work. Unlike traditional museums, which take inside what once
was outside, in this case the open space of an entire
territory becomes a museum. Fourteen kilometres
of tracks for cyclists and pedestrians along the
banks of the canals and of the Secchia, four rest
and orientation areas, didactic and informative boards,
a permanent base in Piazza della Libertà to preserve
the history of the reclamations and of the territory of
Moglia, an equipped camper site in the square of the
Civic Sports Centre. The museum is all this, a work that
places Moglia in Eurovelo 7, a national and continental
cycle route network of historical and naturalistic interest dedicated to those longing for nature, silence and
a slower pace.
The route in the open air along the banks of the reclamations in the Parma-Moglia region and of the river
Secchia alone does not allow a full understanding of
the changes the territory has undergone throughout
the years: in the building in Piazza della Libertà documents, testimonies, images and maps have been
collected to communicate the vital importance the reclamation works have in the history and the culture of
this land.
INFORMATION
Mantua > San Benedetto Po > Moglia
The leaflet “Moglia percorso delle bonifiche” (Moglia the
reclamation route) can be downloaded from the site of
Moglia municipality
www.comune.moglia.mn.it tel. 0376.511411
Land reclamation ecomuseum, P.zza della Libertà, 7
tel. 0376.511411
Mustum ardens is a mixture made with hot mustard seeds and wine must. It was used to
preserve fruit, which is highly perishable. The first testimony of the
existence of this luxury food
preparation, present on
the table of the Lords
of Mantua, the Gonzagas, dates back to
1300. It used to be
made by the court
pharmacists, the
apothecaries, and
it was preserved in
the typical albarelli,
peculiar small and
medium size maiolica jars. Around the
seventeenth century
the use of sugar and
mustard seeds became
more and more popular and
mustard started to be diffused
among peasant families insomuch that it
became one of the fundamental ingredients of
Mantuan gastronomic tradition. This preserve of
An American in Mantua
Pumpkin belongs to the plant family Cucurbitaceae, it
comes from central America but it has chosen the Mantuan territory as its country. It is a rustic and resistant
plant, it adapts well to heat but requires a lot of water
during its growth. It has always been considered
a surrogate of pork for its nutritional properties
and because nothing of the pumpkin gets wasted. Just like a pig. Also its flowers, leaves and seeds
are edible. Its sweet and soft pulp is rich in vitamins
and nutrients and is used in many Mantuan typical preparations: in addition to the renowned tortelli, it is used
with gnocchi, risottos, soups, salads, grilled and also
used to make desserts.
There are a lot of different varieties. The most diffused
cultivations in the Mantuan region are Mantovana (green/ grey skin, flat at the ends), Piacentina, Berretta of
Mantua (round and with an excellent pulp), Marina di
Chioggia (perfect for cooking, with a sweet and tasty
pulp), Americana, Turbante, Delica, Ungherese…
hot fruit, an absorbing combination of unusual tastes,
is traditionally made with unripe apples or pears (campanina apples or quinces) cut into thin
slices and left to rest covered with
sugar for 24 hours.
The liquid obtained is
boiled, poured over the
fruit and left to rest:
this procedure must
be repeated three
times. Then the
fruit is boiled for a
long time with the
syrup previously
obtained, adding
six drops of liquid
mustard per kilogram of mixture. The
mixture is left to rest
and the “hot” preserve is
put into in a hermetic jar. Besides making typical Mantuan
dishes, like tortelli di zucca (raviolilike pasta filled with pumpkin), unique, mustard is used to flavour boiled and roast meat and
it matches perfectly with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
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Oltrepò tastes: Tortelli di Zucca
This ravioli-like pasta is probably the king of
Mantuan dishes. Its creation is the subject of a historical controversy: is it a noble dish created by the
cooks who used to work at the Gonzagas’ court or
is it country food? Probably the recipe, which, with
slight variations, has been enshrined and handed
down from generation to generation, an indisputable symbol of the Mantuan character, is a synthesis
of both popular and refined traditions.
This dish combines the sweetness of pumpkin and
almond with the more spicy tastes of Mantuan mustard and nutmeg, all harmonized by the unmistakable flavour of Parmigiano-Reggiano.
Ingredients: pumpkin 1 kg, Parmigiano-Reggiano
300 g, macaroons 200 g, Mantuan mustard 200 g,
breadcrumbs 100 g, salt and nutmeg as required.
Preparation: cut the pumpkin into big slices, steam it or cook it in the oven, peel it and remove the
seeds, sieve it in a mixing bowl.
Add the cheese and the breadcrumbs, the crumbled
macaroons, the chopped mustard; flavour with the nutmeg and add the salt.
Mix the ingredients well and leave to rest for a few hours in a cool place.
Prepare the pastry using 6 eggs and 6 hg of hard wheat flour, cut it into 7 cm wide strips. Place a big teaspoon of
filling every 3 or 4 cm, fold the pastry over and press well to close. Cut out the rectangles obtained and cook them
in plenty of salted water for a few minutes. Tortelli can be seasoned with melted butter and sage and sprinkled with
plenty of grated Parmigiano.
In addition to the naturalistic aspects, the relevance
of this area is also given by the archaeological findings discovered. According to the many
amphoras found, probably this once was an important site for Po river navigation, where boats
stopped and made exchanges and traded, half way
between the port of Ostiglia and that of Brescello.
The ancient findings can be admired in the Pegognaga
Civic Archaeological Museum.
INFORMATION
Mantua > Pegognaga
Parco San Lorenzo
strada Falconiera
www.comune.pegognaga.mn.it
Pegognaga Civic Archaeological Museum
“Livia Bottardi Milani” Cultural centre piazza Vittorio Veneto, 14 tel. 0376.5546401
[email protected]
Saint Lawrence’s Church and the connection with Matilda
Nature regained and Roman archaeology in San Lorenzo Park
San Lorenzo park extends for 54 ha, 7 ha of
which are occupied by an archaeological area
dating back to the Roman times (II century B.C.
- IV century A.C.), 37 ha are used as a public
park and 10 ha as a natural oasis.
This is where the beautiful Saint Lawrence’s
Church, built upon Matilda’s request, stands.
It was born from the reconversion of an
area that used to be a clay extraction site
and it now belongs to the history and nature of the Po. The three suggestive sheets
of water that characterize the park are, in fact,
the remains of the clay excavations made until
the end of the eighties, but they are now a
natural oasis where the typical vegetation of a
humid area has got the upper hand on man’s
work and has become the habitat for a rich
avifauna.
The equipped routes and the bird watching
sheds make the park even more pleasant.
Near San Lorenzo Park there is one of Matilda’s ancient
churches: Saint Lawrence’s Church. This church was
mentioned already in a document of the Lombard king
Liutprand. According to tradition it was rebuilt, probably
in 1082, in a Romanesque style upon request of Matilda
of Canossa, whose vast properties stretched from the
Lazio region to Lake Garda and also included Pegognaga.
Traces of Matilda can be found in the whole Mantuan territory, which was particularly strategic because of the river Po: the presence of the Great
Countess in the territory was strengthened with the
building of monasteries and churches. In the place
where Saint Lawrence’s church was built there already
were the ruins of a villa and of a temple from the Roman
times: this is why in the church foundations fragments of
Roman pottery and bricks can be found, while there is a
fragment of a tuff funerary plaque on the portal.
In the second half of the seventeenth century the church
was abandoned and fell into decay. It was used as a sto-
rehouse and as a cattle shed, and it was subject to the
floods of the river Po.
Important restorations made in the eighteenth century
and in the years between 1924-32, when it became a
temple dedicated to the fallen of the First World War,
brought the church back to its ancient splendour. Built
according to the severe and linear style of neo Christian architecture, the floor plan is divided into a
nave and two side aisles with curved apses. There are
some steps in the nave that go down to the crypt, while
two staircases in the side aisles go up to the raised presbytery. The same linearity can be found in the essential
lines of the façade.
INFORMATION
Mantua > Pegognaga
Via Provinciale, opening upon request.
For information tel. 0376.558173
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The park of the flood plains at the mouth of the Secchia
The river Secchia rises in the Reggio Emilia Apennines
and runs through the Emilian plain for almost 180 km
before flowing into the Po.
A park was created on the spot where the waters of the two rivers merge. It enhances an area
which is already particularly interesting from a
naturalistic and geomorphological point of view.
The river flows in the greenery tracing meanders in the
valley flanked by the imposing reclamation works.
The ideal way to explore the park is to cycle along
the river banks and on the country towpaths, in
close contact with nature.
Bicycles, an absolutely ecological means of transport,
have many advantages, for example they give the possibility to connect the itineraries on the right and on
the left of the Secchia by crossing Quistello bridge and
to link up with the cycle routes flanking the river Po
as far as the province of Ferrara or going back to Modena, always along the Secchia. With small deviations
towards the built-up areas it is possible to explore the
Oltrepò lands, rich in important historic, cultural and
naturalistic testimonies, like the tourist mooring posts
on the river Po (in Quingentole and in San Benedetto
Po), Polirone Abbey in San Benedetto Po, the land reclamation museum in Moglia, the Po popular culture
museum in San Benedetto Po, only to mention a few, in
addition to the agritourism structures which offer
excellent refreshment and hospitality.
All the cycle routes in the province of Mantua,
integrated with those of the European network
Eurovelo, are well indicated in the map “MantoVA in Bici!” (Mantua goes cycling), issued by the
Province of Mantua.
INFORMATION
Mantua > San Benedetto Po > Quistello
ex S.S. 496 “Virgiliana”
Quistello Town Hall, piazza G. Matteotti, 1
tel. 0376.627201/627252
www.parcofocesecchia.it
[email protected]
Nuvolato: Saint Florentine and the Giuseppe Gorni Diffused Museum
who arrived at Saint Benedictine’s Abbey in Polirone in
the eleventh century. The Abbey was first mentioned in
1059. Compared to the other Romanesque structures in
the Oltrepò, its building characteristics are more ancient.
It has a Latin cross floor plan instead of a nave and two
side aisles, similarly to the first church dedicated to Saint
Mary of Cluny in France and to Saint Mary’s Church in the
isle of Polirone. Being situated along the ancient course
of the Po Vecchio, it is in the centre of a cultural, touristic
and religious route connecting the churches built between
the eleventh and the twelfth centuries. The suggestion
of this small church was particularly dear to the architect, sculptor and painter from Nuvolato Giuseppe
Gorni (1894-1975). His works can be admired all over
the territory: he designed the corn warehouse in Quistello, the greengrocer’s house, the carpenter’s house and
the baker’s house in Nuvolato, the Casa del Balilla (the
current gym) and Nuvolato’s elementary school.
His graphic and sculpture works are collected in the latter,
which has been turned into a museum: a tribute to an artist
who was attached to the rural reality of the twentieth century, a charismatic personality and a lover of his own land.
INFORMATION
Nuvolato Church is dedicated to Saint Florentine, a soldier
of noble birth and original of Burgundy, who became a
martyr in the fifth century. Therefore there was a direct
link with France, maybe by means of the Cluniac monks,
Mantua > San Benedetto Po > Quistello > Nuvolato
via Martiri di Belfiore, 7
tel. 0376.627241, www.comune.quistello.mn.it
Opening times: Thursday: 9.00-12.00 Saturday: 9.0012.00 and 16.00-19.30, Sunday: 16.00-19.30.
Polirone Benedictine Abbey
This wonderful monastic complex, considered the Montecassino of northern Italy, dates back to the beginning
of the eleventh century, when Tedald of Canossa, ancestor of Countess Matilda, donated half of the island
formed by the rivers Po and Lirone to the Benedictine
monks. The exceptional architecture is owed to the
brilliant Renaissance architect and painter Giulio
Romano, who, between 1540 and 1545, restored
all the buildings without demolishing the old Romanesque and Gothic structures but working out original solutions to integrate the preexistent styles. The
abbey complex is composed of several edifices, originally used by the monks for their various activities. Saint
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50
The Mantuan melon and the onion of Sermide
Benedictine’s cloister is particularly beautiful and so are
the quieter ones of the Seculars and Saint Simeon. The
aisles and the entrances to the basilica’s side chapels
are decorated with the terracotta statues of saints by the
famous Modenese Antonio Begarelli, who Vasari defined
the Michelangelo of terracotta. Until 1633 the mortal
remains of Matilda of Canossa, cornerstone figure
of Italian Middle Ages, lied in the alabaster sacellum; they were later moved to Saint Peter’s Basilica in
Rome. On the upper floor of Saint Simeon’s cloister,
in the rooms which once were the abbot and princes’ apartments, the monks’ cells, the writing room
and the room that was used as the library in the
eighteenth century, now there is one of the most
important ethnographical museums in Italy, the
Polirone Civic Museum. The museum focuses on the
material culture and the rural society of the fluvial plain
crossed by the Po, deepening also those aspects connected with magic, folk religion, local legends and artistic
expressions. Particularly interesting is also the historicalarchaeological collection in the basement of the former
refectory and of the former sickroom.
INFORMATION
Mantua > San Benedetto Po
Polirone Abbey and Civic Museum
piazza Teofilo Folengo, 22
Oltrepò tastes: Mantuan Lambrusco PDO
One of the most appreciated and famous wines from
the Mantuan oenological production, Lambrusco has
ancient origins dating back to the Benedictine monks
of Polirone. The monks used to collect wine instead of
money from the tenants of the abbey’s lands.
The district in which Mantuan Lambrusco PDO is made
includes Oltrepò and the area between Viadana and
Sabbioneta.This wine should be drunk young, within a
couple of years from grape harvest. It has a ruby red
or rosé colour and it is sparkling. Its rich foam entices
people to taste and discover this nectar’s fresh and
fruity taste.
Mantuan Lambrusco can be matched with many dishes: it matches very well with sausages and the traditional cotechino (a large boiled pork sausage), because its fresh and slightly acid flavour harmoniously contrasts
with the most elaborated dishes. It is perfect with meat filled pasta, also in broth: traditionally people used to pour
some Lambrusco in the broth to enrich the dish. Its amabile (sweet) version matches well with sweets and the classic
tortelli di zucca.
I N F O R M A T I O N Consortium for the safeguard of Mantuan wines, via Calvi, 28 - Mantua www.vinimantovani.it, [email protected] tel. 0376.234420
With its fragrant and unmistakable smell, bright colour and soft and juicy pulp, melon more than all
other fruits reminds you of summer and of those
sultry days when all you would eat is just a plate of
ham and melon. It is an excellent remedy in very hot
weather: it is rich in vitamins A and C, calcium and
potassium, and at the same time low in calories.
It also favours cell regeneration and fights ageing.
The history of melon in the Mantuan territory dates
back to the middle of the sixteenth century, when
documents attest that Felice Fiera, the podestà of
Viadana, gave Duke Francesco Gonzaga four fragrant melons as a gift. There are melons even in
some frescoes brought back to light in Matilda’s
Santa Croce church in Sermide.
The most cultivated variety in the Mantuan region
is the summer melon, which has an orange-yellow
pulp. While the winter melon has a light, whitish
pulp. Sermide and Viadana are typical production areas.
Another important agricultural production in Sermide is the onion. This food has always been present in peasant diets and
not only. Almost 500 different varieties are cultivated in this area, reaching an annual production which is 10% of the national amount. The most popular varieties are the onion of Sermide, also called Paglierina, which is planted in Autumn and
harvested in summer, and the Dorata Invernale onion, which is planted in spring and harvested between July and August.
I N F O R M A T I O N Consortium of Mantuan melon, piazza Sordello 43, Mantua, tel. 335.6087178 [email protected], www.melonemantovano.it
Industrial archaeology and nature along the Po
The name of this protected area stretching along the
course of the Po as far as Sermide derives from the
presence of a large colony of bee-eaters (gruccioni),
birds with a beautiful plumage that have started nesting along the course of the Po: the suggestive landscape is that of flood plain environments, rich in
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poplar woods, sheets of water and natural white
willow woods, vast sandy lands and oxbow lakes,
Isola Schiavi and Isola Bianchi, formed by the flow
of the river.
Following the cycle route running along the right bank
of the Great River, going along the quiet bankside roads you reach Moglia di Sermide water pump plant.
This plant is still in service and, in case of very
heavy rains and flooding, the ten powerful pumps
start working, rise 7 metres and discharge up to
40 cubic metres per second of water into the Po.
The monumental structure is beautiful to look at. It is
made of bricks with marble and wrought iron decorations and has wide windows at the front.
The cycle routes of Golene del Gruccione park are
connected with those of the Eurovelo network
that run along the main bank of the Po.
se of work on the same level, favouring an exchange
on equal terms and entitling the exhibition “Work and
Art workers” (Lavoro e lavoratori nell’Arte). From the
start the prize focused its attention on a realist trend
of art, attentive to social problems. The works awarded
the prize have remained municipal property and have
constituted a very rich historical-artistic heritage, that
rates artists like Renato Guttuso, Aligi Sassu, Renato
Birolli, Bepi Romagnoli, Giuseppe Zigaina and Antonio
Ligabue among its participants.
In addition to the permanent exhibition, in the period
between September and the end of the year the “Suzzara Prize” is held. In accordance with its tradition, the
prize is particularly attentive to the artistic languages
of contemporaneity.
INFORMATION
Mantua > Ostiglia > Sermide
Map of the cycle routes “MantoVa in Bici” published by
the Province of Mantua
www.comune.sermide.mn.it
IAT - Tourist Office Mantuan Oltrepò, tel. 0376.623036
Suzzara: a different prize
INFORMATION
Mantua > Borgoforte > Suzzara
Galleria del Premio, via Don G. Bosco, 2/a
tel. 0376.535593 [email protected]
www.premiosuzzara.it
Nature and history by the Po riverside
The permanent “Galleria del Premio Suzzara” museum
houses a rich collection of works which have been collected from the first edition of the Suzzara prize to
this day.
The painting prize was instituted in 1948 upon
proposal of Dino Villani and Cesare Zavattini. The
prize distinguished itself from similar initiatives
of the time for the composition of the judges and
for the nature of the prizes: among the judges
there had to be not only managers of art galleries, art historians and critics, journalists, but also
a factory worker, an employee and a farmer. The
prizes, provided by the farmers and factory workers of Suzzara, were products of work and land:
a cheese wheel, a calf, a kitchen range, a drum of wine,
butter, sausages, chickens, eggs, etc.
The original idea that decreed the success of the initiative was the fact that it put products of art and tho-
Saint Colombanus natural park is
a site of extra municipal interest
situated in the Suzzara hamlet of
Riva and includes a vast Po flood
plain area, which encloses three
“bugni”, that is three sheets of
water which formed as a consequence of the historic river floods.
Today these small lakes have become important natural environments
surrounded by the spontaneous
vegetation typical of humid areas.
In the middle of the park there is also the Reconciliation
Memorial, a place celebrating
justice and peace in the world,
characterized by a small chapel
obtained from a natural niche. Thirteen big stones
have been placed at the foot of the chapel, twelve
in a circle and one in the middle: it is a stones circle,
like the many of Pre-Celtic Ireland. It is dedicated to the
Irish monk Saint Columbanus, the abbot and missionary
famous for having founded many monasteries and churches in Europe. He lived in the sixth-seventh century
and was the bearer of the values
of peace and unity.
The park is a green and quiet
place, where visitors can enjoy a
break. There are tables, benches,
barbecues, a rest area for horses,
a bicycle park, a river mooring
and a shed to observe the fauna.
Those who love cycling can start
from here the comfortable system
of flat routes connected with the
main bank and directly linked to
the cycle network Eurovelo.
Visitors are accompanied along the
historical and naturalistic routes by
several informative panels, while during the year the park offers
walks with environmental guides, initiatives for children
and naturalistic labs.
INFORMATION
Mantua > Suzzara > Riva
Suzzara Town Hall, tel. 0376.513248
www.parcosancolombano.it
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Ghisione Romanesque Oratory
The oratory dedicated to Saint Andrew is a small
architectural jewel dating back to the eleventh
century and entirely made in terracotta.
It has the simple and austere Romanesque structure, common to Matilda’s other buildings in the
Oltrepò region.
The most ancient part includes the three apses,
the side walls and a small part of the façade, while the bell tower was added around the end of the
fifteenth century.
The interior is rather bare, with few remains of
decorations.
INFORMATION
Mantua > San Benedetto Po > Villa Poma
Villa Poma Town Hall
tel. 0386.864206
Oltrepò tastes: the typical Mantuan pear PGI
The main characteristics of the typical pear grown in
the Mantuan territory are sweetness and juiciness. The
lands in the Oltrepò district are particularly suited for
the production of the six traditional Mantuan varieties:
Abate Fetel, Decana del Comizio, Conference, Kaiser,
William, and Max Red Bartlett.
Cultivation of the Mantuan pear is regulated by a
product specification and carried out according to the
traditional techniques of the area and a precise quality control plan. Pear cultivation started in the fifteenth century on the lands reclaimed by the Gonzagas
and the Benedictine monks of Polirone monastery. The
importance of this production is also testified by the
frescoes by Mantegna in the Bridal Chamber of the
Castle of Saint George in Mantua. There is a vegetable
decoration in the frescoes and in its weave there are
many yellow pears. This fruit is also in the decoration
of the Throne room of the Ducal Palace in Sabbioneta.
The pear is the protagonist of many gastronomic preparations, like the traditional hot mustard. But it can
also simply be matched to a nice sliver of ParmigianoReggiano.
INFORMATION
Consortium of the typical Mantuan pear, S.S. 496 Virgiliana n° 20, San Giovanni del Dosso, tel. 0386 757323
Along the road of the Mantuan truffle
In the plains along the right bank of the river Po
that lucky, rare and difficult combination of the
elements that determine the ideal environment
for truffle to grow in occurs: the climate, the soils’
properties and the presence of those plants that establish a vital relationship with truffle. The Oltrepò territory is a natural truffle ground of the most precious
truffle, the white one: Tuber magnatum Pico.
This fruit of the land, known since ancient times and
present on the most noble tables, is a hypogean
mushroom that grows in symbiosis with the roots of
particular trees that influence its taste and smell: and it
is exactly its smell that makes it recognizable by trifulìn,
truffle searchers, or to be more precise, by the nose of
their well trained four-legged friends.
They say you eat truffle with your nose, because it is
the aroma it sends out, more than its taste or colour,
that better represents it. In cookery tradition it is often
enhanced as a “solist”, matched with simple but carefully selected dishes, like the classic fried egg or a nice
creamed risotto. It is excellent also with cheeses and
it becomes unforgettable when it is the protagonist of
creative recipes.
The road of Mantuan truffle brings together the
towns of Borgofranco sul Po, Carbonara di Po,
Felonica, San Giacomo delle Segnate, Sermide,
Pieve di Coriano and Villa Poma to enhance white truffle as the indisputable protagonist of local
gastronomy, culture, history and nature: from the
village fairs to the traditional recipes and the TRU.MU,
the Truffle Museum in Borgofranco sul Po. A must.
INFORMATION
Mantua > Ostiglia > Borgofranco sul Po
TRU.MU Museo del Tartufo di Borgofranco sul Po via A. Barbi, 36/b (Località Bonizzo)
Borgofranco sul Po
[email protected] tel. 0386.41667,
www.stradadeltartufo.org
Oltrepò tastes: Torta Sbrisolona
This typical Mantuan cake was probably created by the confectioners at the Gonzaga court. However, for its simple ingredients, it
has become part of peasant tradition.
It is characterized by a hard and friable pastry that you can break
with your hands to form the typical brise (crumbs).
Perfect served with sweet and straw wines like Malvasia or Passito.
Ingredients: 200 g white flour, 200 g yellow flour, 200 g sugar,
200 g sweet almonds, 200 g butter (according to tradition: 100 g
butter and 100 g lard), two egg yolks, the grated rind of 1 lemon,
a pinch of salt.
Preparation: mix the two kinds of flour, the sugar, the grinded
almonds, the eggs and the lemon rind with the softened butter (or
lard). Knead quickly and crumble grossly using your fingers.
Put in a buttered and floured cake tin and form a 3 cm layer.
Cook in the oven for 40 mins, until the cake is golden brown.
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events & happenings
typical tastes, music, street markets, carnivals, theatre, traditions and celebrations…
Spring
San Bendetto Po, every first Sunday of the month, Antique fair
Suzzara, March, Cicciolata sul Po (Crackling festival along the river Po)
Mantua, 18th March, feast of Saint Anselm, the Patron Saint
Mantua, Easter - Good Friday, Ostension of the sacred vases
San Bendetto Po, beginning of May, Asparagus festival
Pegognaga, May, Pegorock, a rock music festival
San Benedetto Po, May, San Benedetto Po in flower and Acoustic Guitar Festival
Summer
San Bendetto Po, every first Sunday of the month, Antique fair
Motteggiana, July, Saint Charles’ feast day
Moglia, end of July, Moglia fair
Pegognaga, August, Saint Lawrence’s feast day
Quistello, August, Saint Bartholomew’s feast day
Mantua, beginning of September, Festivaletteratura, an event dedicated to literature
Gonzaga, beginning of September, The millenary fair, event dedicated to agriculture, arts and crafts,
culture, gastronomy, etc.
Mantua, mid September, Gran Premio Nuvolari, a historic car race
Gonzaga, end of September, Electronics fair
Autumn
San Bendetto Po, every first Sunday of the month, Antique fair
Quistello, September, Mushroom festival
Villa Poma, September, Saint Michael’s feast day
Winter
Suzzara, beginning of November, Polenta festival
Suzzara, mid November, Saint Columbanus’ feast day
Suzzara, February, Festival Nebbiagialla, a festival dedicated to noir and detective stories authors
information & tourists reception
IAT - TOURIST OFFICE in Mantua
piazza Mantegna 6,
call center 0376.432 432 fax 0376 432 433, text messages 329.0189367 turismo.mantova.it - [email protected]
IAT - TOURIST OFFICE in San Benedetto Po piazza Teofilo Folengo 22, tel. 0376.623036 www.oltrepomantova.it
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Agritourism
Borgofranco sul Po
Corte Bancare di Laura Tampellini
12 via Bancare II° 20, 46020 Borgofranco sul Po tel. and fax 0386 41622 cell. 328 6110710
Corte Broletto di Giovanni Rossi
via Bassa 17, 46020 Borgofranco sul Po
fax 0386 467093 cell. 335 6760682 - 339 5761890
Pegognaga
Corte Baghina di Simone Caserta Cà Rossa di Patrizia Lasagna strada Canali, 7 46027 San Benedetto Po
tel. 0376 614090 cell. 349 7877866 www.cortebaghina.it
strada Provinciale Est 6, 46020 Pegognaga tel. 0376 559072 cell. 348 6929358 www.agriturcarossa.it
strada Bertoia 4, 46027 San Benedetto Po
tel. and fax 0376 612012 cell. 340 4830523
www.cortebertoia.it
Corte Spiziera Nuova di Giuseppe Bernardelli
Corte Medaglie d’Oro di Claudio Cobellini
Felonica
strada Falconiera 4, loc. Falconiera, 46020 Pegognaga
tel. and fax 0376 558556 cell. 349 8809287 349 5969143
Corte Nigella di Stefano Paganini San Lorenzo di Cesira Agosta Tota
via Argine Valle 75, 46022 Felonica tel. 0386 66222 fax 0386 66405 cell. 338 4057185 www.cortenigella.com
strada Falconiera 3, loc. Falconiera, 46020 Pegognaga
tel. and fax 0376 558062 cell. 340 2864747
Corte Prova di Nicola Pulga via Vò, 21 46020 Pegognaga
tel. 0376 550388 fax 0376 553196
www.volivia.it
via Argine Valle 70, loc. Prova 46022 Felonica tel. and fax 0386 66493 cell. 328 6867629 www.corteprova.com
La Bicocca di Remo Minella
via Garibaldi 170, 46022 Felonica tel. 0386 62866 cell. 338 3811392 cell. 347 2945037
www.labicocca-agriturismo.com
Gonzaga
Corte Dinarella di Ferrari Carla
strada Albereda 4, 46023 Bondeno di Gonzaga tel. 0376 54543 cell. 329 5608033
Corte Villoresi di Daniela Zapparoli
strada Privata Pianone 1, 46023 Bondeno di Gonzaga
tel. and fax 0376 550470 cell. 368 3340954
Magnacavallo
Loghino Vallazza di Gloria Luisa Sagoni via Vallazza 6, loc. Vallazza, 46020 Magnacavallo
tel. 0386 55113 tel. and fax 0386 55430
www.agriturismomantova.it
Moglia
Corte Valle S. Martino della famiglia Mezza
via Valle S. Martino 30/a, 46024 Moglia tel. and fax 0376 557943 cell. 339 6459804
www.agriturismomantova.it
La Rocchetta di Claudio Agnesio e Margherita Galli
via Rocchetta 57, 46024 Moglia
tel. and fax 0376 557273 cell. 347 1166480
Loghino Giacinto di Samuele Mazzola
Volivia Quingentole
Corte Matiola di Franca Goldoni
via Libioli 15, 46020 Quingentole tel. and fax 0386 427022 cell. 331 9762853
www.agriturismomantova.it
La Pecora Nera di Ilaria Guaita strada Belguardare 8/10, 46020 Quingentole tel. 0386 427016 cell. 348 5119981 349 4643774
Quistello
Belvedere di Mauro Piva via Ferrarine 4, 46026 Quistello
tel. and fax 0376 625129 cell. 335 6591449
Il Vecchio Trogolo di Patrizio Soriani & C. s.s.
via Cortesa, 53 46026 Quistello
tel. 0376 616785 cell. 335 1250305
Zibramonda di Carlo Breviglieri
via Argine Secchia 20, 46026 Quistello tel. 0376 615031 fax 0376 615362 cell. 335 6916130
www.zibramonda.it
San Benedetto Po
Agriturismo Casari di Attilio Casari strada Romana sud 20, 46027 San Benedetto Po tel. and fax 0376 615436 cell. 348 4011841 www.agriturismocasari.com
Al Pradlin di Carlo Battesini e Laura Franzoni
strada Romana Nord 23, loc. Gorgo, 46027 San Benedetto Po tel. 0376 615773 - 0376 615120 - cell. 347 1552832
via Coazze 31, loc. Bondanello, 46024 Moglia
tel. 0376 56133
Az. Tur. Venatoria Argine Vecchio di Dario Beccari
Motteggiana
via Arginino Vecchio 194, loc. Mirasole, 46027 San Benedetto Po
tel. and fax 0376 612169 cell. 335 8160039
Corte Fabbrica di Diego Amista Cà del Vento di Patrizia Perfetti via D. Alighieri 21, loc. Torricella, 46020 Motteggiana tel. and fax 0376 520118
www.cortefabbrica.it
Forte Urbano di Mattia Dallai via F.lli Cervi 21 loc. Sailetto, 46020 Motteggiana tel. 0376 520318 cell. 348 5333551 - 345 5804482
strada Schiappa 24 - dir. S. Siro, 46027 San Benedetto Po tel. and fax 0376 615633 cell. 340 4758245 www.agricadelvento.it
Cà Vecchia di Claudio Sartori via Romana Sud 48, 46027 S. Benedetto Po tel. 0376 622987
Olianina di Fausto Barbi
via Gaiardina 4, 46020 Villa Poma
tel. 0386 566700 fax. 0386 864249 cell. 349 4678345
Corte Bertoia di Valeria Formigoni
Strada Bassa 10, 46020 Pegognaga
fax 329 8660346 cell. 339 1002196
Corte Laghetto Sparviero di Tiziana Illari
Villa Poma
via Argine Secchia 63, 46027 San Benedetto Po
tel. and fax 0376 618802 cell. 338 1401856
www.cortemedagliedoro.it
La Bianchina di Giampaolo Guidetti
via Argine Po Nord 70, 46027 San Benedetto Po
tel. and fax 0376 615804 cell. 340 5991248
www.labianchina.altervista.org
Merlin Cocai di Ramon Scansani via Argine Po sud 156, loc. Portiolo, 46027 San Benedetto Po
cell. 347 5837393 - 348 5207093
Didactic farms
Corte Valle San Martino della famiglia Mezza
via Valle San Martino 30/C 46024 Moglia
Tel. 0376.557943 - 598567 Fax 0376.557943
Cell. 339.6459804 www.agriturismomantova.it
La Bianchina di Giampaolo Guidetti
strada Argine Po Nord 70 (vicino al ponte sul fiume Po) San Benedetto Po
Tel 0376615804 Cell. 3405991248 Cell. 3478002424
labianchina.altervista.org - www.agriturismomantova.it
San Giacomo delle Segnate
Azienda Agricola Stoffi di Emanuele Papotti
via Stoffi 48, 46020 San Giacomo delle Segnate tel. 0376 618967 fax 02 700568410 cell. 333 7863206
www.agricolastoffi.net
Corte Aldegatta di Leda Manfredini via Arrigona, 21 46020 San Giacomo delle Segnate tel. and fax 0376 616415 cell. 333 6426839 www.agriturismomantova.it
Corte Le Caselle di Gianfranco Cantadori
via Contotta 21 46020 San Giacomo delle Segnate
tel. and fax 0376 616391 cell. 348 3859622
La Vigna di Fausto Zerbinati
via Cantone 1, 46020 San Giacomo delle Segnate
tel. 0376 616406 cell. 338 2877482 www.agriturismo.it
Sermide
Corte Gardinala di Tarcisio Bettoni
via Gardinala 2 - loc. Moglia, 46028 Sermide
tel. 0386 969853 cell. 338 7668558
www.agriturismomantova.it www.cortegardinala.altervista.org
Suzzara
Corte Basaglie di Antonio Bonatti Nizzoli
via F.lli Cervi, loc. Sailetto, 46030 Suzzara
tel. 0376 590265 fax 0376 224342 cell. 347 2629001
Loghino Gardone-Rossi e Bertoni di Bruno Rossi Restaurants along the
“Strada dei Vini e Sapori Mantovani”
(the road of Mantuan wines and tastes) in the Oltrepò region
Ristorante all’Angelo
via Martiri di Belfiore 20, 46026 Quistello
tel. 0376.618354 fax 0376.619955
www.allangelo.eu
Ristorante Il Tartufo
via Guido Rossa 13, 46036 Revere
tel. 0386.846076 fax 0386.846076 cell. 346.9597210 www.ristoranteiltartufo.com
Winegrowers
along
the “Strada dei Vini e Sapori Mantovani” (the road of Mantuan wines
and tastes) in the Oltrepò region
Cantina Sociale di Poggio Rusco
via Poma 6, 46025 Poggio Rusco
tel. 0386.51028 fax 0386.741287
www.cantinapoggiorusco.it
Cantina Sociale di Gonzaga
via Villa Inferiore 55, 46029 Suzzara
tel. 0376 522994 fax 0376 532684 cell. 349 6302855
viale Stazione 39, Gonzaga
tel. 0376.58051 fax 0376.528038
www.cantinagonzaga.it
Loghino Sabbioni di Fiorenza Nosari Cantina Sociale di Quistello
via Selmanenti 31, loc. Riva, 46029 Suzzara
tel. and fax 0376 532377 cell. 347 4503605 338 568712
www.loghinosabbioni.it
via Roma 46, 46026 Quistello
tel. 0376.618118 fax 0376.619772
www.cantinasocialequistello.it
mantuan oltrepò
mantuan oltrepò
60
1537
The dairy started its activity
in Moglia (Mn) in 1982 with
Armando Visconti. It boasts a
long experience in the field. The
management was passed on to the
four children some years ago.
Caseificio
Latteria
F.lli Visconti
Vo’ Grande
Via Benedetto Croce, 8 - 46024 Moglia (Mn)
tel. and fax 0371.98036
Strada Vo’, 68 - 46020 Pegognaga (Mn)
tel. 0376.558091 fax 0376.558186
retail outlet
Via Sant’Antonio, 3 26854 Pieve Fissiraga (Lo)
(Autosole Lodi motorway exit)
open every day 8.30 - 12 15.30 - 19
closed Sunday
open Monday 15 - 19
Tuesday to Saturday 8.30 - 12 15 - 19
closed Sunday
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
other hard cheeses: tipico Lodigiano, Bella Lodi, Grana Padano, soft cheeses, cured meats, wine, jam, honey
[email protected]
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
dairy products (butter, fresh cheeses), meat,
pure pork cured meats, wine and typical local products
geographic coordinates
geographic coordinates
44° 59’ 08’’ N 10° 53’ 59’’ E
1559
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
7
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 5.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 10
Active since
1982
Società Caramasche is one of
the oldest in the territory of
Pegognaga. It was founded in 1874
and enlarged in 2000 and today it
has a functional and avant-garde
structure.
[email protected]
www.parmigianoreggianoitalia.it
geographic coordinates
44° 59’ 02’’ N 10° 51’ 23’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
10
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 16.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 23
Active since
1874
At the beginning of the thirties a
group of farmers from Pegognaga
formed a partnership to optimize
the production of ParmigianoReggiano and founded the Latteria
Vo’ Grande. The dairy makes
about 27,000 cheese wheels a
year: Vo’ Grande is a modern and
avant-garde company thanks to
the partners’ constant efforts and
the technological innovations
adopted.
[email protected]
44° 56’ 12’’ N 10° 53’ 38’’ E
1559
1567
63
1567
dairy retailers
dairy retailers
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
13
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 27.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 32
Active since
1956
Caseificio
Caramasche
Via Caramasche, 29 - 46020 Pegognaga (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.558356
open Friday 9.00 - 12.00 products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
butter, cream
Latteria Sociale
Gonfo
Via Argine Po, 86 - Villa Saviola 46020 Motteggiana (Mn)
tel. 0376.527095 fax 0376.510835
open Tuesday and Friday 9 - 12 15.30 - 19
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
butter
1579
Latteria Gonfo is a historic dairy,
already active at the beginning
of the 1900s. Situated on the
right bank of the river Po, on
the bankside road MotteggianaSan Benedetto Po, the dairy was
founded in 1955. Since then it has
constantly increased the quantity
of milk conferred by the partners
and has made ParmigianoReggiano. In 2008, thanks to the
merger by incorporation with the
dairy Gazzina Nuova, it has further
strengthened its activity.
geographic coordinates
45° 02’ 21’’ N 10° 49’ 49’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
21
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 22.800
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 35
Active since
1955
1579
1537
62
dairy retailers
dairy retailers
1714
It was founded as a private dairy
at the beginning of the1900s
and was transformed into a
cooperative in the fifties.
Latteria Agricola
Marzette
Via Marzette, 14/B - 46023 Bondeno di Gonzaga (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.54067
open every day 9 - 12 15 - 18
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
butter, caciotta
Natura Agricola
Via Arginello, 26 - 46024 Bondanello di Moglia (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.56367
open every day 8 - 12.30 15 - 19
closed Sunday
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
salami, mustard, honey, caciotta, butter of their own make
1721
65
1721
1714
64
The more than hundred year old
company was founded on the
land of Sacchetta di Bondanello
in 1907. The grandchildren, now
like then, carry on the traditions
of the patriarch Antonio in
the enhancement of the land’s
products. They make ParmigianoReggiano using exclusively the
milk from the family’s cattle.
[email protected]
www.naturaagricola.com
geographic coordinates
geographic coordinates
44° 57’ 26’’ N 10° 51’ 56’’ E
44° 57’ 07’’ N 10° 56’ 11’’ E
1720
Founded in 1940, the dairy was
restructured in 1966 with an
annual productive capacity of
30,000 q. The new dairy has
been active since 2000 and has
an annual productive capacity of
100,000 q.
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
1
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 4.400
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°)
8
Active since
2003
Latteria Agricola
Begozzo
Strada Begozzo, 10 - Palidano 46023 Gonzaga (Mn)
tel. 0376.536343
open Tuesday and Friday 9 - 12 15.30 - 19 products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
butter
Latteria
San Fiorentino
Via Europa, 1 - 46020 Nuvolato, Quistello (Mn)
tel. 0376.617133 - 0376.617371 fax 0376.617133
open every day 9 - 12
1724
Founded in 1972 from the merger
of six small dairies of the hamlets
of Nuvolato and Quingentole, the
dairy was restructured in 1995. It
processes about 44,000 q of milk
every year.
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
butter, ricotta cheese
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
44° 57’ 45’’ N 10° 45’ 36’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
8
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 10.500
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 24
Active since
1966
geographic coordinates
45° 02’ 27’’ N 11° 01’ 12’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
12
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 8.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 20
Active since
1972
1724
1720
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
9
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 11.300
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 18
Active since
1955
dairy retailers
dairy retailers
1829
The small industrial dairy started
off by making 4 cheese wheels a
day. It’s activity has gradually
grown and it now makes 12
wheels a day, which represent its
maximum capacity. It avails itself
of the milk conferred by six long
term suppliers.
Latteria
Mortaretta
Via Ronchi, 60 - Palidano 46020 Gonzaga (Mn)
tel. 0522.972006 fax 0522.972672
retail outlet
the sales point is at about 200 m
Via Cattanea, 68 - 42046 Reggiolo (Re)
open every day 8.30 - 12.30 15 - 19
closed Monday
Latteria Agricola
Quistello
Via Cappe, 3/B - 46026 Quistello (Mn)
tel. 0376.618234 fax 0376.626504
open every day 8.30 - 12
closed Sunday
1832
67
1832
1829
66
The structure is completely new
and it was inaugurated in 2001.
In 2006, following the taking over
of another dairy, it considerably
increased its production.
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
Virgilio butter
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
ricotta cheese, mozzarella, cheeses, cured meats, sausages,
pork meat
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
geographic coordinates
44° 56’ 36’’ N 10° 48’ 00’’ E
45° 00’ 33’’ N 11° 00’ 06’’ E
1831
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
6
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 4.380
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°)
6
Active since
1962
1831
Born as a dairy processing
agricultural cooperative from the
merger of several farms, now, as
then, the dairy makes ParmigianoReggiano and other quality dairy
products. There are 1,500 head in
the attached pigsty that, thanks
to the modern slaughterhouse,
guarantees genuine meat for the
production of cured meats and
fresh meat cuts.
[email protected]
www.latteriacarlopoma.com
geographic coordinates
44° 59’ 39’’ N 11° 07’ 04’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
4
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 3.396
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 10
Active since
1962
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
27
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 22.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 30
Latteria Sociale
Carlo Poma
Via Roma Sud, 35/A - 46020 Villa Poma (Mn)
tel. 0386.864214 fax 0386.864136
open every day 8 - 12.30 15.30 - 19.30
closed Monday afternoon and Sunday
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
fresh pork meat, sausages, butter, soft cheeses
Latteria Agricola
San Martino
Via Zottole, 101 - Bugno Martino 46027 San Benedetto Po (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.615770
open every day 8 - 12.30 16 - 19
closed Saturday and Sunday
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
1833
The dairy was born in 1971 from the
demerger of another cooperative.
At that time there already were 34
conferring partners and the annual
production was 16,000 q of milk.
Today there are 17 partners and
over 60,000 q of milk are processed.
butter
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
45° 00’ 45’’ N 10° 57’ 53’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
17
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 11.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 18
Active since
1971
1833
[email protected]
www.latteriamortaretta.it
1834
68
dairy retailers
1834
The dairy was founded in 1971
and began its activity on 1.1.1972,
after the closing down of the dairy
Cavecchia Canali.
Latteria Agricola
San Giuseppe
Strada Gualanta, 2 - Bugno Martino 46027 San Benedetto Po (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.615265
open every day 9.30 - 12 16.30 - 19
closed Sunday
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
butter
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
45° 00’ 39’’ N 10° 57’ 09’’ E
1835
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
4
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 5.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 12
Active since
1972
1835
The dairy was founded in 1962.
Since then it has experienced a
continuous growth and it was
completely restructured in 1997.
In 2000 the storehouse was
enlarged. In 2010 a milk surfacing
system was adopted and the milk
processed increased from 15,000 q
of 1962 to 82,777 q of 2010.
[email protected]
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
45° 00’ 36’’ N 11° 15’ 43’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
13
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 14.500
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 27
Active since
1962
Latteria Agricola
Mogliese
Via Galvani, 1 - 46020 Sermide (Mn)
tel. 0386.61241 fax 0386.961252
open every day 8.40 - 12.30
Friday and Saturday 15 - 19
closed Sunday
products on sale besides Parmigiano-Reggiano
butter
Mantua, the view
A heart of art and culture
surrounded by water
Mantua’s many shades:
masterpieces of art and taste in a unique setting
mantua
72
Mantua,
a city of art on a human scale
The seigniory of the Gonzaga ruled the Mantuan territory for almost five centuries starting
from 1328. They transformed the city into one of
the most important centres for the promotion and
diffusion of art and culture, in
a patronage which is almost
beyond compare. The greatest artistic personalities of
the time gathered at court:
humanists, scholars, composers, architects and painters,
key personalities of the Italian and European culture
were welcomed in Mantua,
where they worked at the
Gonzaga’s court and created
their masterpieces. In 1460
Ludovico II appointed Andrea
Mantegna the court painter
and called architects of the caliber of Leon Battista
Alberti and Luca Fancelli. A century later Federico II
elevated Mantua to the reference point for mannerist
art, thanks to the masterpiece by Giulio Romano, a
brilliant architect who built and decorated for Federico II the sublime Palazzo Te, a place of amusement
and delight of the Gonsaga’s court. Vincenzo became Rubens’ patron, Ferdinando Gonzaga took on
Van Dyck. This is the reason why Mantua is so rich
in masterpieces.
The symbol of the power and magnificence of the
Gonzaga family is the Ducal Palace, one of the lar-
mantua
75
mantua
74
gest and most elaborate royal palaces in Italy. It holds
about 500 halls and rooms with several squares,
courtyards and internal gardens. It is a city in the city
and its treasures are so many that it is difficult to list
them all: tapestries by Raphael, serieses of frescoes
by Giulio Romano and Pisanello, canvases by Rubens,
rich collections of Greek and Roman sculptures… In
one of the towers of the Castle of Saint George,
designed by Bartolino da Novara, there is a real
jewel: the famous Camera degli Sposi (the Bridal
Chamber), with frescoes by Andrea Mantegna.
The other important symbol of the Gonzagas
Mantua is Palazzo Te, a very refined palace for
leisure and amusements designed for the Duke
by Giulio Romano between 1525 and 1535: the
wonderful halls Sala dei Giganti, Sala di Amore e Psiche
and Sala dei Cavalli are breathtaking for the evocative strength of the painting, which literally draws the
observer to the centre of the mythological scene. Before arriving at Palazzo Te, Mantegna’s house, with
its characteristic circular courtyard,
is a must. It belonged to the great
artist and it is a singular example of
the Renaissance civil architecture.
Another noteworthy building is
Saint Sebastian’s Palace, the residence of Francesco II Gonzaga,
embellished with the Triumphs of
Caesar by Mantegna. The Palace
now houses the City Museum.
The dome that characterizes Mantua’s outline belongs to Saint Andrew’s Basilica, a masterpiece designed by Leon Battista Alberti, who
is also the author of San Sebastian’s Church, now
dedicated to the fallen.
The Dome is of more composite workmanship but
it is remarkable for its interior by Giulio Romano and
for the works it houses. Mantua lived another period of artistic fervour in the eighteenth century with
Empress Maria Theresa. The most important testimonies of that period are the Bishop’s Palace, Arco
Palace and above all the Bibiena Scientific Theatre
(1769). In 1770 the father of the great Wolfgang
Amadeus Mozart accompanied his son, who was not
even fourteen, to Mantua for a memorable concert.
mantua
77
mantua
76
In that occasion, in front of the sparkling golds and
the frescoes he stated: in my life I have never seen
anything this beautiful.
Every year, in the historic Mantuan setting of the
buildings, the streets and the squares, Festivaletteratura, an event dedicated to literature, is held.
The festival is the city’s main cultural event: five days
of meetings with internationally renowned authors,
readings, concerts, interviews and shows… The audience and the authors often meet in unusual places
of great historic and artistic value. It’s a unique show
in the setting of a splendid and vibrant city of art.
Besides its artistic and cultural treasures, Mantua
is also a city on a pedestrian and a cyclist scale,
framed in a beautiful water scenery: it is, in fact,
embraced by three communicating lakes: Lago Superiore (Superior Lake), Lago Inferiore (Inferior Lake)
and Lago di Mezzo (Middle Lake). These sheets of
water look like natural lakes, but they actually originated from ancient weirs along the river Mincio.
The Mincio is an effluent of Lake Garda and its flow
is regulated thanks to brilliant hydraulic works built
in 1190 by Engineer Pitentino. The lakes have an
important naturalistic value and they belong to Mincio park, a protected area which can be explored
by bicycle, on foot or by boat. In July and in August
amazing lotus bloomings can be enjoyed in Mantua’s
lakes: this aquatic plant is originally from South East
Asia and it was brought here by a young scientist in
the twenties, with the aim to obtain flour from the
rhizomes. The growth and the bloom of the lotus is
so spectacular and so luxuriant that it is periodically
necessary to thin out the vegetation not to alter the
balance of the lake’s ecosystem.
The city’s outer perimeter is studded with several bicycle routes: there is a bicycle track that runs
along the lakes’ lower banks and connects Borgo
Angeli with Porto Catena. At the Ponte dei Mulini (the
Mills bridge) the track is also linked to the one going
to Lake Garda.
INFORMATION
IAT - Tourist and Information Point
piazza Mantegna, 6 - Mantua
call center 0376.432432
Rigoletto InfoPoint
piazza Sordello, 23 tel .0376.288208
www.turismo.mantova.it [email protected]
Mincio Park - Tourist Office
piazza Porta Giulia 10, Cittadella, Mantua
tel. 0376.228320
www.parcodelmincio.it
80
81
Dairy wholesalers
1545 Cas. Pironda
p.82
1561 Magazzini Emiliani Stagionatura Formaggip.82
Mantua
1830
1811
1583 1661
1772
1801
1561
1703
p.82
1583 Cas. Croce
p.83
1585 Latt. Agr. Arrivabene
p.83
1661 Casearia Sant’Antonio
p.83
1703 Latt. Agr. Venera Vecchia
p.84
1737 Nuovo Caseificio Andreasi
p.84
1772 Latt. Agr. di Polesine Mantovana Vecchiap.84
1572
1545
1572 Soc. Coop. Agr. Zoo. Portiolo
1737
1585
1801 Cas. Frizza
p.85
1811 Latt. Nuova San Carlo
p.85
1830 Latt. Soc. Rocchetta
p.85
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
Caseificio
Pironda
Croce
Via Matteotti, 8 - 46020 Torricella di Motteggiana (Mn)
tel. 0376.590140 fax 0376.590133
45° 02’ 07’’ N
10° 42’ 37’’ E
The dairy dates back to the
beginning of the past century,
while the current structure
dates back to the sixties. It has
gradually increased its productive capacity from 22,000 q of
milk to 46,000 q.
1561
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
8
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 8.800
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 14
Active since
1949
1561
www.bergamaschiss.it
[email protected]
the dairy sells also abroad
Via Viola Sacca, 19/C - 46020 Pegognaga (Mn)
tel. 0376.558263 fax 0376.553700
According to sources of oral
tradition, our dairy was the
first active at the beginning
of the 1900s in the territory
of Pegognaga. The etymology
of the name “croce” (cross)
derives from the position of the
settlement, which is, in fact,
situated on a road that divides
into a cross-like fork.
Magazzini Emiliani
Stagionatura Formaggi
Via Pasine, 29/B - 46029 Suzzara (Mn)
tel. 0376.531003 fax 0376.534536
1572
9
15
2010
The dairy has been recently acquired. It collects and processes
the milk from local producers
in respect of tradition.
(n°)
geographic coordinates
45° 02’ 38’’ N
10° 51’ 54’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
1
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 4.500
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°)
7
Active since
1972
44° 00’ 32’’ N
10° 50’ 18’’ E
Latteria Agricola
Arrivabene
Via Segonda, 13 - 46025 Poggio Rusco (Mn)
tel. and fax 0386.734222
1585
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
44° 58’ 01’’ N
11° 09’ 11’’ E
44° 58’ 32’’ N
10° 58’ 35’’ E
1572
geographic coordinates
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
15
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 19.300
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 30
Active since
1902
geographic coordinates
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
Cauldrons in the processing room
Active since
1583
1585
1545
Caseificio
83
1583
dairy wholesalers
dairy wholesalers
The ancient dairy dates back
to the thirties. It was renewed
in the nineties with 20 partners conferring 46,000 q of
milk a year; today there are 12
partners and they confer about
90,000 q of milk each year.
Casearia
Società Cooperativa Agricola Zootecnica
Sant’Antonio
Portiolo
Via Argine Po Sud, 47 - 46020 Portiolo di San Benedeto Po (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.611137
Since it was founded, the cooperative has been processing only
the milk produced in-house (in
the company’s cowsheds).
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
12
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 14.166
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 30
Active since
1995
Via Chiaviche, 106 - 46020 Pegognaga (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.611163
The dairy was founded in the fifties
and it was active under the name
of the cooperative San Girolamo
until 1996. The cooperative was
split up by the smaller partners
who took advantage of the sales of
milk quotas. The dairy S. Antonio
was founded in 1997. It has been
working ever since with excellent
results in terms of quantity and
quality.
1661
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
45° 01’ 46’’ N
10° 52’ 52’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
2
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 5.500
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°)
8
Active since
1997
1661
1545
82
[email protected]
geographic coordinates
Via Roncore, 36/A - 46023 Bondeno di Gonzaga (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.54068
44° 56’ 07’’ N
10° 50’ 24’’ E
This ancient dairy was active
already in the thirties. The cooperative was founded in 1962
by 39 conferring partners. In
1997 a new structure was built
with an annexed maturing storehouse to meet an increase in
the quantity of milk conferred.
1737
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
20
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 32.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 48
Active since
1962
1737
geographic coordinates
45° 00’ 17’’ N
11° 06’ 12’’ E
1772
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
7
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 9.400
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 15
Active since
1954
1772
geographic coordinates
44° 58’ 45’’ N
10° 48’ 06’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
16
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 13.800
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 21
Active since
1976
Caseificio
Venera Vecchia
Frizza
Via Birla, 55 - 46020 Pegognaga (Mn)
tel. 0376.558419 fax 0376.553259
Via Coazze, 2 - 46020 Villa Poma (Mn)
tel. and fax 0386.565279
Every day the dairy processes the milk conferred by the
partners and transforms it into
butter and cheese. The cheese
is then left to mature and sold,
in full respect of the mutualistic
principle, which has always
inspired the cooperative since
its founding in 1954.
Via Crema, 27 - 46027 San Benedetto Po (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.622946
The dairy, situated a few kilometres from the Benedictine
San Benedetto in Po Abbey, has
been active since the beginning
of the 1900s, under different
names. It was completely
restructured in 1990 but it has
kept the features of the small
local dairy.
Rocchetta
Mantovana Vecchia
Via Mantovana, 66 - 46020 Polesine di Pegognaga (Mn)
tel. and fax 0376.58412
This very old dairy dates back
to the thirties. The current
structure was founded in 1976
and at the time it processed
20,000 q of milk. It got bigger
and bigger and it now processes 75,000 q of milk.
Via Pecore, 3 - 46029 Suzzara (Mn)
tel. 0376.590356
It was founded in 1960 with 17 partners. The partners became 34 in the
seventies and the quantity of milk
processed at the time was 20,000
q. Later the number of partners decreased, while the quantity of milk
processed increased. Currently
there are 7 partners, who process
53,000 q of milk a year. In 2000 the
maturing storehouse was enlarged.
They are now working on the enlargement of the milk room.
1811
geographic coordinates
45° 00’ 57’’ N
10° 54’ 32’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
4
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 4.200
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°)
7
Active since
2007
Latteria Sociale
Latteria Agricola di Polesine
geographic coordinates
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
25
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 27.000
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 35
Active since
1954
Nuova San Carlo
Andreasi
[email protected]
44° 59’ 02’’ N
10° 55’ 10’’ E
It used to be a very old cheese
house, the so called “casello”,
situated in the yard of a private
house of the year 1400. In 1954
it became a cooperative and the
partners rented the “casello”.
During the eighties it gradually
grew bigger and the ownership
of the “casello” was passed on
to the partners.
Latteria
Nuovo Caseificio
1801
1811
1703
Latteria Agricola
85
1801
dairy wholesalers
dairy wholesalers
1830
geographic coordinates
45° 00’ 50’’ N
10° 44’ 42’’ E
Cattle conferring milk (n°)
7
Annual prod. of cheese wheels (n°) 10.999
Cauldrons in the processing room (n°) 14
Active since
2002
1830
1703
84
88
89
© photographic images
Enrico Valenti and Francesca Zanetti (Eccentrico)
photos of the dairies, p. 10, 22, 23 top, 25 bottom, 30, 33, 35 bottom, 40 - 41, 59
Carlo Guttadauro
p. 5, 14 - 15, 18 - 19, 24, 25, 28, 29, 32, 35, 78 - 79, 86 - 87
Photographic archive of the Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
p. 27, 31, 32, 44
Claudio Guidetti’s archive
p. 23 bottom
Lucio Rossi - Foto R.C.R. Parma
p. 36 - 37
Archive of GAL Oltrepò Mantovano (Mantuan Oltrepò Local Action Group) - Maria Sole Porcelli
p. 48 bottom, 50, 52 bottom, 53 bottom, 55 bottom
Archive GAL Oltrepò Mantovano (Mantuan Oltrepò Local Action Group) - Marcello Calendi
p. 47
Photographic archive of Suzzara Prize Gallery
p. 54, 55 top
Egidio Foglia
p. 16 - 17, 46
Francesca Menna
p. 45
Angelo Damiano
p. 48 top
Photographic archive of the Province of Mantua
p. 49, 5, 52 top, 53 top, 56 top, 57 top, 75 bottom
iStockphoto
p. 26, 27, 72 bottom, 74, 75, 76
Fotolia
p. 56 bottom © subbotina anna, 57 © silvana comugnero, 70 - 71 © massimiliano mattion, 72 top © christa eder, 73 © maurizio targhetta, 74
bottom © olga demchishina, 77 © lulù
The editor has done everything possible to trace the holders of the photographic rights of the images published
and is prepared to fulfil his obligations in the event of possible errors or omissions.
The Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese does not take responsibility
in relation to the information about the dairies, which was provided directly by the interested makers.
91
Index of the dairies by registration number
1537 Cas. Fratelli Visconti
p.62
1545 Cas. Pironda
p.82
1559 Cas. Caramasche
p.62
1561 Magazzini Emiliani Stagionatura Formaggi
p.82
1567 Latt. Vo’ Grande
p.63
1572 Soc. Coop. Agr. Zoo. Portiolo
p.82
1579 Latt. Soc. Gonfo
p.63
1583 Cas. Croce
p.83
1585 Latt. Agr. Arrivabene
p.83
1661 Casearia Sant’Antonio
p.83
1703 Latt. Agr. Venera Vecchia
p.84
1714 Latt. Agr. Marzette
p.64
1720 Latt. Agr. Begozzo
p.64
1721 Natura Agricola
p.65
1724 Latt. San Fiorentino
p.65
1737 Nuovo Caseificio Andreasi
p.84
1772 Latt. Agr. di Polesine Mantovana Vecchia
p.84
1801 Cas. Frizza
p.85
1811 Latt. Nuova San Carlo
p.85
1829 Latt. Mortaretta
p.66
1830 Latt. Soc. Rocchetta
p.85
1831 Latt. Soc. Carlo Poma
p.66
1832 Latt. Agr. Quistello
p.67
1833 Latt. Agr. San Martino
p.67
1834 Latt. Agr. San Giuseppe
p.68
1835 Latt. Agr. Mogliese
p.68
0000 Dairy retailers
0000 Dairy wholesalers
93
Thematic Index
Castles and Architectures
Saint Lawrence’s church
Saint Florentine and the Gorni Museum
Polirone Abbey
Ghisione Romanesque Oratory
p.49
p.51
p.51
p.56
Museums
Land reclamation ecomuseum
Saint Florentine and the Gorni Museum
Polirone Abbey p.45
p.51
p.51
Typical tastes, wine and food
La torta di tagliatelle
(a cake made with tagliatelle and almonds)
A hot sweet mustard
An American in Mantua
Tortelli di zucca
(ravioli-like pasta filled with pumpkin) Mantuan Lambrusco PDO
The Mantuan melon and the onion of Sermide
The typical Mantuan pear
Along the road of the truffle
The Sbrisolona (a typical cake with almonds)
p.45
p.47
p.47
p.48
p.52
p.53
p.56
p.57
p.57
Nature, sports and activities in the open air
Land reclamation ecomuseum
p.45
San Lorenzo Park p.48
The flood plains at the mouth of the Secchia
p.50
Archaeology and nature along the Po
p.53
San Colombano park
p.55
Culture and history
Archaeology and nature along the Po Polirone Abbey
A different prize
p.53
p.51
p.54
Events and traditions
Gonzaga’s millenarian fair
p.44
For updated information
on the world of Parmigiano-Reggiano
and the dairies making the cheese
visit the website www.parmigiano-reggiano.it
A GPS guide of the dairies
for the main satellite navigation systems
can be downloaded from the website
eccentrico.eu
Consortium of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Mantua section
Via Cappello, 13 - 46100 Mantova
Tel. 0376.327621 Fax 0376.322502
www.parmigiano-reggiano.it