WeatherBest Installation Guide

Pre-Installation
A few things you should know about
WeatherBest® Decking...
Characteristics
• Warranted not to rot, WeatherBest® products have
superior weathering qualities compared to wood. They
resist splitting, checking and splintering. There are no knots
to fall out.
• Like wood, WeatherBest® decking will lighten a bit over
time as it weathers, but generally remains close to its
original shade.
• Minor surface scratches will weather over time to match
the deck boards and will not affect the beauty of the deck.
• Mold and mildew may occur on any outdoor building
material. Keep deck free of dirt and grime with periodic
rinsing, and if necessary, use a mild bleach solution or
deck cleaner.
• There will be a slight color variation between boards.
Before you fasten them down, lay the boards out to be
sure you get the color mix that your customer prefers.
• WeatherBest® Premium Grain and Tropical decking is
reversible and may be installed with either side facing up.
Please Note:
As with all construction projects, there are certain hazards
involved with the operation of tools and ladders. Using
tools with respect and caution will considerably lessen the
possibility of personal injury. However, if normal safety
precautions are overlooked or ignored, personal injury to the
operator may result.
Remember:
Your personal safety is your responsibility.
1
Pre-Installation (Continued)
General Construction Notes
• WeatherBest® decking, railing components and fascia board must not be used as a component in a truss, structural
diaphragm or interior framing application for joists, rafters, studs, beams, columns and posts. Consult with state and local
authorities in your area regarding building codes and regulations.
• WeatherBest® decking cuts, drills and installs similarly to wood. Use standard tools and standard
carbide-tipped saw blades, too. (A carbide-tip blade with two teeth per inch works well.)
• Refer to the instructions on Page 12 for woodgrain post requirements (6’ centers). Where substructure posts have greater
spacing, additional posts may be required to meet the spacing requirements for the railing. Additional support posts may be
installed more easily before deck boards are installed.
• Use a minimum spacing (3/16”) between boards and (1/8”) at butt joints per installation instructions.
• When face fastening WeatherBest Decking, we recommend we recommend the use of #8 x 2-1/2” stainless steel flat-head
screws (for exterior use). They are available in most markets. Two screws must be installed in a deck board at every joist
location. All instructions concerning screw installation, pilot hole size and screw spacing are based on using #8 x 2-1/2” or
3” stainless steel screws.
• For hidden fastener applications, we recommend the Phantom™ Hidden Deck Fastener. The Phantom™ Fastener was
designed expressly for the lateral deck grooves in each WeatherBest® GV option board. Detailed instructions on the proper
usage of Phantom™ Fasteners is included in this booklet.
• When installing WeatherBest® decking products, you have multiple choices in fastening systems. Several products have
been tested. The results can be found in a Technical Bulletin on www.weatherbest.com. Before using specialty screws or
hidden fastener systems, check with your local building code authorities. In some areas, there are specific requirements for
screw pull-through capacity and wind uplift resistance capacity, especially in locations that are known for hurricanes and
tornadoes. Only your local building authority can determine if your chosen fastener is adequate.
Follow the WeatherBest® installation instructions and those of the fastening system manufacturer when using specialty or
hidden fasteners. WeatherBest® does not guarantee the durability or long-term performance of any mechanical or hidden
fastener. Contact the fastener manufacturer for detailed instructions.
• When applying screws, the wood fibers may “mushroom” out from the hole. Simply hammer them lightly to cover the deck
screw. Although it is not required on decking, pre-drilling 1/8” dia. holes with a countersink will eliminate the mushrooming
and provide a cleaner, more attractive installation, and is highly recommended. You should always pre-drill the end of each
board with a 1/8” bit no closer than 1” from the edge to prevent chipping or splitting.
• Pre-drilled holes are required for all railing installations.
2
Installation
WeatherBest® Composite Decking
Deck Boards
If using WeatherBest® Premium Grain deck boards, either
side may be installed in the “up” position (woodgrain or
brushed surface). WeatherBest® WeatherBest Tropical
Decking is also a fully reversible board, so either side may
be installed in the “up” position.
Screws
See General Construction Notes on
Page 8 or see Technical Bulletin online
at www.weatherbest.com
12” Joist spacing when deck boards are diagonal
Joist Spacing
WeatherBest® decking boards are intended to be
installed on joists spaced up to 16“ on center for
residential applications. Reduce spacing to 12“ when
applying boards diagonally up to 45°.
Deck Board Spacing
A minimum gap of 3/16” between boards is required for
drainage of water or melting snow and ice.
Screws at least
1” from end of
Deck Board
3/4" Max.
Overhang
2" Max.
Overhang
3/16" Min.
Between Deck
Boards see
instructions
16” O.C. Joist
Spacing Max.,
12” Max. when
Deck Boards on
Angle
12" to ground minimum. Check your
local codes, they may rewquire more!
Joist and deck board spacing
Butt Joint Spacing
Butt joints must be spaced at least 1/8” apart. However,
since a larger gap may be necessary, a good estimate
is to allow 1/16” for every 20° F difference between
the temperature during installation and the highest
temperature expected where the deck is being installed.
This will allow for expansion during temperature changes.
Screws at ends of boards must be no closer than 1” to the
end. A lumber support board (blocking or double joist)
must to be used to support the end of one board and
accommodate the required screw spacing. Do not toenail
or screw at an angle.
Screws at
least 1” from
end of Deck
Board
DO
NOT
screw
at an
angle
Support board
where two
ends meet
1/8" Min. Between
ends of Deck Boards
see instructions
Butt joint spacing
3
Stair Tread (3 options)
Deck boards or stair tread rails can be used for stair treads.
If deck boards are used, refer to option B or C. When using
deck boards or stair rails, a 3/16” gap must be left between
the boards. Fascia boards must not be used as stair treads or
deck boards.
Deck Board Option B
3/16" Min. Between
deck boards
Screws at least 1"
from end of deck
board
Stair rail option A
9"
9"
9"
3/16" Min. Between
stair tread rails
9"
Screws at least 1"
from end of rail
Stair riser
Deck Board Option C
18"
3/16" Min. Between
deck boards
18"
Stair riser
Screws at least 1"
from end of deck
board
12"
Using WeatherBest® Fascia
to Trim Edges/Stairs
The fascia board is merely a decorative cover; it must not be
used as a deck board or stair tread. When installing the fascia
board, use #8 x 2-1/2” stainless steel screws. See the fascia
board schematic on page 11 for the correct screw spacing;
leave a minimum 1/8” gap between fascia boards and the
house or other decking.
4
12"
12"
Stair riser
2 x 4 x Tread
width-wood
blocking
Fascia Board Installation
The fascia board can be attached to various rim joist sizes.
The width of the fascia board is designed for a
2 x 12 wood joist size. For smaller sizes (e.g., 2 x 10,
2 x 8 and 2 x 6), the board must be trimmed to be flush with
the wood joist.
Recommendations
1. Two people are needed for installation due to
weight of materials.
2. During installation, if possible, clamp the fascia
board in place when pre-drilling and securing with
screws (e.g., #8 x 2”, stainless steel).
Caution:
Screw spacing along the length of the board must be 16”
or LESS. This helps minimize the occurrence of buckling of
the board. As with most fascia products, some bowing (or
buckling) of the fascia board may occur. Spacing between
the fascia boards and deck boards must be at least an 1/8”
minimum.
5
WeatherBest® Composite Decking
(Phantom™ Hidden Fasteners)
Structural Joist
16” O.C.*
Structural Joist
Structural Joist
Figure 2: First Board
Deck
Board
To accommodate normal expansion/contraction and proper
drainage, leave a 3/16” space between each parallel deck
board and 1/8” between each end-to-end seam. A 1/4”
space should be left between the deck board and any
permanent structure or post (fig. 2).
1/8”
1-1/2”
GV (Grooved) boards are not recommended for stair
tread applications.
Phantom™ Fastener
1”
1.Position the first deck board on the support joists. Leave a
1/4” gap from any permanent structure (fig. 2).
2.Pre-drill the first deck board with a 1/8” drill along the
outside edge of the board at every support joist. To
prevent cracking of the board the holes at the end of the
board should be a minimum of 1-1/2” from the end. The
holes along the grooved edge of the board should be a
minimum of 1” from the edge.
3.Secure the first deck board by fastening a #10 x 2-1/4”
long stainless steel deck screw in each pre-drilled hole. DO
NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.
4.Insert a Phantom™ fastener into the side channel of the
board at every support joist (pronged end first). Pronged
end should engage the deck board by a minimum of
5/16” (fig. 3a). Center the screw hole on the joist.
5.Install a screw (provided with the fasteners) through the
hole in the Phantom™ fastener into the center of each
support joist. Angle the fastener toward the first deck
board (fig. 3a). DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE SCREWS.
6
Structural Joist
1/4”
Initial installation of deck boards
Fastener
Figure 3: Installation
Insert pronged tab
into fixed board.
5/16” engagement
a
l Slide fastener into side channel of decking board at every support joist.
l Install screw provided through fastener hole into each support joist.
b
l Locate next slotted board against the fastener tabs.
l Slightly lift the outer edge of the board and slide over fastener tabs.
3/16” gap
c
l Be sure fasteners are fully seated into each board to ensure even spacing.
Wall or other permanent structure.
Structural joists should be spaced no more than 16” on
center for most residential applications and no more than
12” on center for commercial uses (fig. 1). For best results,
double joist any end to end seam. If applying deck boards
diagonally across joist, the joist spacing should be reduced
by 4”. All GV (Grooved) decking is intended for deck
surface only not for structural members.
Structural Joist (added to support end-to-end seam)
Structural Joist
Prior to installation consult building code requirements
for proper installation. Local building codes supersede any
and all recommendations in the following guide. Before
installing GV (Grooved) decking, thoroughly review the
installation instructions.
Wall or other permanent structure.
* Typical residential joist spacing.
12” O.C. for commercial applications
Always check local codes before construction.
Structural Joist
Installation
Figure 1: Preparation
Figure 4: Maintain Gapping
Wall or other permanent structure.
6.Position the next deck board against the fastener tabs
and slide the board onto the tabs. If necessary, slightly
lift the outer edge of the board to ease the assembly of
the board onto the fastener tabs (fig. 3b). When installed
properly the fastener will ensure a 3/16” gap (fig. 3c).
7.Repeat steps 4 - 6 for each deck board.
8.Position the final deck board onto the last set of
Phantom™ fasteners. Ensuring a consistent gap between
boards (fig. 4), predrill the final deck board with a 1/8”
drill along the outside edge of the board at every support
joist. The holes at the end of the board should be a
minimum of 1-1/2” from the end. The holes along the
grooved edge of the board should be a minimum of 1”
from the edge (fig. 5).
1/8”
Deck
Board
9.Secure the final deck board by fastening a #10 x 2-1/4”
long stainless steel deck screw in each pre-drilled hole.
DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN THE SCREWS
Structural Joist
3/16”
1/8”
Wall or other permanent structure.
Figure 5: Last Board
Deck
Board
scrap board
1-1/2”
1”
Structural Joist
3/16”
7
Figure 6: Removing Board
Figure 7: Replacing Board
Cut Here
Remove center
cut out
Trim tabs from
fasteners with
exposed screws
only.
1/8”
Figure 6a
Engage
fastener
tabs into
side deck
channel
3/16”
Cut Here
New Board
Remove side
pieces
Deck Board Replacement
1. Make two parallel cuts down the center of the board to be replaced. Remove the center section from the board (fig.6).
2. Remove the remaining two pieces from the tabs of the corresponding hidden fasteners.
3. With a reciprocating saw, remove the tabs on the fasteners which have the screw showing (fig. 6a).
4. Position the new deck board onto the remaining tabs (fig. 7).
5. Ensuring a consistent 3/16” gap between boards, predrill a 1/8” hole along the unfastened edge at every support joist.
6. Secure the board by fastening a #10 x 2-1/4” long stainless steel deck screw in each pre-drilled hole.
8
Installation
WeatherBest® Premium Grain Railing
In both cases, the railing height does not exceed the 42”
maximum.The illustrations below are views from on
the deck. Remember, you must pre-drill all screw holes.
The railings can be built and installed for outside mounting
on the railing posts (A) or inset between the railing posts (B).
If you don’t want the posts extending above the rail, you can
modify the Inset Design (B). In this installation, the posts are
cut shorter so that the railing top boards cover the posts.
Outside Design A
1/8" Min.
clearance
around Post
Post
Handling
outside corners
Top boards
extended
Rails extended
Inset Design B
1/8" Min. clearance
at Post
Top
Board
Top boards
flush at post
corner
With Post Caps
Handling
outside
corners
Post
Top
Board
Without Post Caps
Colors have been used in the following instructions to help identify
the parts in the drawings and the material used to make them.
Top Board
Deck Board
Post Sleeve
Post Sleeve over
Lumber
Horiz. Rails
Stair Tread/
Rail Stock
Supports
Stair Tread/
Rail Stock
Baluster
Solid Baluster
Stock
Also available: Diamond White™ co-extruded composite railing that will not rot or
peel. For installation instructions, please visit www.weatherbest.com.
9
1
Railing Post &
Sleeve Installation
4 x 4 wood posts should be located at a maximum of 72”
on center. They must be completely boxed in for support
on all four sides. The post must be long enough to reach
from the bottom of the joist through the deck planking
and extend 45” above the top of planking. This will result
in posts extending above the railing and being “capped.”
The inset railing (Design B) can be mounted to offer a nocap installation; this will reduce the post height above the
planking to 41”. After posts are mounted, cut post sleeve to
length and slide over posts.
For Step 2 go below for Outside Mount (A)
or to page 15 for Inset Mount (B)
Railing Post
45"
(41" Design B
“no Caps”)
SLEEVE
Step
t
Jois
Deck Board
Rim Joist
Rim
Joi
t
Jois
st
Deck Boards not
shown to expose
detail
2 Carriage Bolts, Nuts &
Washers in both Directions
Assemble & Mount
Outside Rail (Design A)
Step
2
Measure distance between posts center to center. Cut two
pieces of rail to this length, less 1/8” (Fig. 1). Position the two
horizontal rails side by side. Locate Baluster centers and mark
on both rails. The 6’ rail will have 13 Balusters, starting from
the center with the last Baluster being about 6” from the
ends. Cut Balusters to 39” long (it will take 13 Balusters for
a 6’ span). Balusters should be positioned every 5” on center.
Lay down the rails; position Balusters on marks (next page,
Fig. 2). Each Baluster will be attached at both ends to the rails
with two screws. End screws must be at least 1” from end of
Baluster. Use a square to line up and hold each Baluster as you
pre-drill the screw hole and install the screws.
10
Figure 1
Assemble Railing
Center of Post to
Center of Post
less 1/8”
(71-7/8” for 6’ Centers)
5"
Find Center, Mark it
and every 5” (6 times)
toward each end
Installation (Continued)
Step
4
Figure 2
2 Screws at each
end 1" Min.
from end
Install Top Board
Cut top board to length of top rail. Notch the top board (Fig. 4)
on both ends. Position top board on railing. It should extend just
over the top rail edge and have a 1/8” gap to post on both sides
(Fig. 5). Clamp in place; secure to top rail by pre-drilling hole and
installing screws 3/4” in from each end and then every 12” to
the center of the top rail. Install post caps.
1/8" Minimum clearance around Post
Center on mark
Post
Step
Top view of Post
and Top Board
Attach Assembled Railing
Cut two pieces of rail 2” long. These Crush Blocks are
installed to support the bottom of the railing at equal
intervals between posts. Use one screw to secure each
block to the Deck Board. Position railing on Crush Blocks
with horizontal rails on outside face of posts (Fig. 3). Center
horizontal rails so that ends align with center of post. Align
rail, level and clamp in place. At each rail end, drill and
secure with two (3”) screws 3/4” in from edges. Cut two
pieces of rail at 3-3/8” long. One goes on each post, level
with the top rail to support the end of the top board.
2-7/16"
Notch both ends
1/8" Min. clearance
around Post
Top view of Post
POST outside
Crush Blocks, screwed to
deck board under horizontal
bottom rail. Install 2 blocks
evenly spaced between
posts.
Post
Top view of Post
and Top Board
POST outside
Post
Outside of Deck
Outside of Deck
Figure 4
Screws (2-1/2")
at each end 3/4”
in from end and
every 12” into top
rail
Top Board Support (3-3/8”)
flush with top of Top Rail
and outside corner of Post
attach with 2 (3”) Screws
both posts
2 (3") Screws at
each end 3/4” in
from end
Railing Rail
POST outside
Figure 3
Length of Top Board
1-9/16"
POST outside
3
Figure 5
Rail outside edge
11
Assemble & Mount
Inset Rail (Design B)
The following instructions illustrate mounting the railing
with support posts extending above the rail top board and
capped. The posts can be cut shorter (41” above deck
boards) so that railing is flush with top of posts. The top
board flows over rails onto posts, eliminating caps. For this
second version, the rail (same construction as below) is
vertically mounted flush with the top of the post. The top
board is then placed from post to post.
3/4"
This edge (3/4” row of
holes) always faces
the railing
1-1/2"
4"
10"
39"
This edge (1-1/2" row
of holes) always
aligns with the
outside of the post
10"
2
Cut and Install
Support Rail
Cut two pieces of rail to 39”, mark them for holes as shown
in figure 6. Cut two pieces of rail 2” long; these Crush
Blocks will be installed to support the bottom of the railing.
You will temporarily use them to vertically locate the support
rails on the post. Position Crush Block and rail support
against side of post as shown (Fig. 7). Locate and drill eight
holes through rail and into post. Secure with (3”) screws.
Install second rail to other post.
Railing Rai l
4"
Post
Top view of Post
and support
Figure 6
Drill holes, attach withith
(3”) screws at marked
locations
Figure 7
POST inside
Step
Inside of Deck
Support (edge with
1-1/2” row of holes)
flush with inside of
Post
Use Crush Block (2”
piece) to locate vertical
position of support.
Remove after Support
attached
No Caps Installation
12
Installation (Continued)
Step
3
Assemble Railing
Measure distance between inside of posts. Cut two pieces
of side rail to this length less 1/4” (Fig. 8). Cut Balusters to
37-1/2” long (it will take 13 Balusters for a 6’ span). Balusters
should be positioned every 5” on center. Position the two
horizontal rails side by side. Locate Baluster centers and mark
on both rails. The 6’ rail would have 13 Balusters starting
from the center. Lay down the rails; position Balusters on
marks (Fig. 9). Each Baluster will be attached to the rails
with two screws at each end. End screws must be at least 1”
from end of Baluster. Use a square to line up and hold each
Baluster as you pre-drill the screw hole and install the screws.
Figure 8
Figure 9
2 Screws at each
end 1" Min.
from end
Inside of Post to Inside
of Post less 1/4" (67"
for Posts on 6'
Centers)
Center on mark
5"
Find Center, Mark it and
ever 5" (6 times) toward
each end.
13
Step
4
Step
Attach Assembled Railing
The Crush Blocks (cut in Step 2) are installed to support the bottom of
the railing at equal intervals between posts. Use one screw to secure
each block to the Deck Board. Position railing on Crush Blocks and
center horizontal rails so that ends have a minimum 1/8” gap to post
(Fig. 10). Align rail, level and clamp in place. At each rail end drill and
secure with two (3”) screws into support rail 3/4” in from edges.
5
Install Top Board
Cut top board to length of top rail (Fig. 11). Position top board on
railing (Fig. 12). Clamp in place, secure to top rail by pre-drilling hole
and installing screws 3/4” in from each end and then every 12” to the
center of the top board. Install post caps.
1/8" Minimum clearance around Post
1/8" Min. clearance at Post
Top view of Post
Length of Top Rail
Figure 11
Screws (2-1/2”)
at each end 3/4”
in from end and
every 12” into
top rail
Rail outside edge
Figure 10
Outside of Deck
1/8" Min. clearance
at Post
Post
Top view of Post
and Top Board
POST outside
Crush Blocks, screwed to
deck board under horizontal
bottom rail. Install 2 blocks
evenly spaced between
posts.
Top view of Post
and Top Board
POST outside
Outside of Deck
Post
POST outside
POST outside
2 (3") Screws at
each end 3/4” in
from end
Railing Rail
Post
Figure 12
NOTE:
If you’re doing the no post caps installation, the top board extends
from post center to post center. Maintain 1/8” gap between top
boards where they meet on center of post.
14