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Home Digital SLR Cameras Compact Digital Cameras Photo Lessons Drawing Home >> Digital SLR Cameras >> E-3 >> White Balance Options with the Olympus E-3 Color temperature, color balance, and White Balance are fundamental concepts that every photographer must understand in order to control the color of a photograph at the control the color of a photograph at the capture stage. People new to photography, digital or traditional, often have a difficult time visualizing what these terms refer to. Even those who are familiar with these terms may not have a clear understanding of how they all work together. In addition to understanding White Balance as a basic photographic concept, it's important to be familiar and comfortable with the unique settings and controls of the camera that you happen to be using. This lesson takes a look at color temperature and White Balance on a conceptual level and then shows how to apply these concepts using the Olympus E-3 digital SLR. This camera offers a variety of advanced and innovative White Balance settings, giving you many options for working with color temperature. (Click on any image below for an enlarged view.) Topics Covered: Color Temperature Color Balance White Balance White Balance Presets Custom White Balance (CWB) Working in Mixed Lighting Conditions The Live View Mode One Touch White Balance Equipment Used: You can click on the blue links below for more info. Camera/Media Olympus 12-60mm f/2.8-4 Digital Zuiko zoom lens Olympus E-3 Lighting Equipment Photoflex Boom Photoflex BoomStand Photoflex ProDuty BackDrop Support Kit Photoflex SilverDome nxt Medium 24x32x17 Photoflex Starlite QL Color Temperature Color temperature is a measurement of the relative color bias from any given light source. The nature of our own visual experience, however, can make the idea of color temperature somewhat confusing. This is because our eyes have the intrinsic ability to adjust to color shifts such that a white piece of paper will appear white regardless of what type of light is being cast on it. However, color shifts can be much more apparent in situations where there are two or more light sources of differing color temperatures, like the relatively yellow in situations where there are two or more light sources of differing color temperatures, like the relatively yellow light that emanates through the windows of a house contrasted against the blue light of dusk. Color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin. The most important thing to remember about color temperature is that the higher the Kelvin number, the more blue the light source. This chart shows several common light sources and shows their place on an approximate color temperature scale. [figure 1] Figure 1 Color Balance Color balance is achieved when a color-recording device (like a camera) captures an image close to how the human eye perceives it. White Balance settings, film type, colored filters and gels, can all help to assist the device in achieving "accurate" color. Alternately, you can also throw the color balance off to render a different mood or effect to an image. White Balance If you shoot with a film camera and want to achieve color balance in a daylight setting, you would use daylightbalanced film to match the color temperature of daylight. If you shoot with a film camera indoors with incandescent lighting, you would either choose Tungsten film or place a Tungsten filter over the lens to balance the color temperature. If you are shooting digitally, however, achieving color balance in any lighting situation is just a matter of setting the White Balance (WB) setting in the camera. In the diagram below, you can see how different White Balance settings can affect the color balance of a shot. Remember that if you can match the color temperature of your light source with the correct White Balance setting, you will get color-balanced, or "neutral" results. [figure 2] Figure 2 Don't worry if the concepts above still seem a little abstract. Further into this lesson, we'll explore these concepts in greater detail using hands-on examples. For now, let's just summarize what we've covered so far. Every light source has a color bias or temperature measured in degrees Kelvin. The human eye cannot always discern the color temperature of the light source, but film and digital sensors are sensitive to differences in the color of light and need to be guided in how to compensate for these differences. The White Balance setting essentially informs the digital sensor in your camera what the color temperature of the light source is. If the White Balance setting matches the actual color temperature of the light source, then the image will have a neutral, or balanced, color rendering. If the White Balance does not match the light source, then the image will have a color cast. White Balance Presets Now let's take a look at the various ways in which the Olympus E-3 allows you to adjust and control the White Balance settings. The default White Balance setting on the Olympus E-3 is the Auto WB setting. Because it's an automatic setting, it doesn't help you to learn how to control White Balance in a more hands-on way. Throughout this lesson, we'll demonstrate how the different manual White Balance settings compare to the results attained using the Auto WB setting. In addition to the Auto WB setting, the Olympus E-3 offers an array of White Balance presets, which correspond to different kinds of lighting conditions. These include settings for Daylight, Tungsten, Shade, Overcast, Fluorescent, and Flash. The following two images illustrate how to select the White Balance presets on the Olympus E-3. [figures 3 & 4] Figure 3 Figure 4 To show some of these White Balance presets in action, we decided to try them out in different lighting conditions and compare the results. Our first example is a simple outdoor composition of a porcelain mask, lit solely by midday sunlight. We first set the White Balance setting to the Tungsten mode with the Light Bulb icon. [figure 5] If you review the White Balance comparison chart in figure 2, it's easy to see why this result has a blue color cast to it. [figure 6] Figure 5 Figure 6 The reason our first try resulted in a blue color cast is because daylight has a much higher color temperature (around 5500K) than Tungsten light (around 3200K). Higher color temperature means that the light source is bluer. Lower color temperature means that the light source is more yellow. When we set our camera to the Tungsten White Balance mode, we essentially let the camera know that the light source had a low color temperature of around 3200K, or that the light was more yellow and that the camera should compensate by adding blue. Since the light source was actually daylight, the result turned out much more blue than it appeared in person. Next, we decided to shoot the same image, but this time match the White Balance setting to the actual color temperature conditions. We set the camera to Daylight White Balance (sun icon) and took another shot. [figures 7 & 8] Figure 7 Figure 8 As you can see, the resulting image has neutral color balance. Below, you can see a comparison of these two results, as well as the same subject photographed using the Auto WB setting. [figure 9] Figure 9 As you can see, the Auto White Balance setting is able to approximate the white balance for daylight conditions. However, it's not as accurate as the Daylight preset and can easily be fooled in certain situations, depending on the colors of the subject matter. Later in this lesson, we'll examine some of the more advanced White Balance methods, which are even more accurate than the presets. But for now, it's important to understand that the White Balance presets, when used correctly, will usually give you more reliable color balance than the Auto WB setting. For our next example, we decided to photograph a simple tabletop still life using a Tungsten light source. For those of you interested in studio lighting, this set-up is very basic and can be easily recreated in your own living room. For this shot we used a Photoflex Starlite QL as the Tungsten light source and a Photoflex Medium SilverDome soft box to diffuse and soften the light. The light was suspended from above using a boom and the background was a roll of 4-foot gray seamless background paper rolled out as a sweep onto a table. [figure 10] Figure 10 Just as we had done previously with the daylight subject, we decided to try using the incorrect White Balance preset to see what the effects would be. Since our light source was a Tungsten lamp, we decided to set the camera to the Daylight preset and took a shot. [figures 11 & 12] Figure 11 Figure 12 Before we explain why the result has such yellow color cast, try to figure out the reason for yourself based on what you have already learned. Remember that the Tungsten light source has a lower color temperature than daylight, which means that it is more yellow than daylight. When the White Balance is set to the Daylight, it is calibrated to capture a neutral image in daylight conditions. Therefore, when we use the Tungsten White Balance preset, we see the actual color of that light source relative to daylight. In other words, Tungsten light will record as a yellow light source unless we guide the camera to compensate for this yellow cast. In the next image, that is exactly what we did. In order to capture a neutral image using the Tungsten lamp, we switched to the Tungsten White Balance setting. [figures 13 & 14] [figures 13 & 14] Figure 13 Figure 14 The result shows a color-balanced result because the Tungsten White Balance preset is calibrated to a color temperature of around 3200K. Therefore, the Tungsten preset will yield neutral results with any light source that is close to this color temperature. Note: Most common household lamps are made with a tungsten filament, which makes this White Balance preset useful when photographing indoors without a flash. Below, we see a side-by-side comparison of our still life shot using the Daylight preset, the Tungsten preset, and the Auto White Balance preset. Notice how the Tungsten preset yielded the most neutral result of the three. The Auto setting, while much closer to neutral that the Daylight setting, is still far from accurate in this case. [figure 15] Figure 15 Next, let's look at two of the most misunderstood White Balance presets: Shade and Cloudy. Most photographers perceive open shade and overcast lighting conditions as being the same color temperature as daylight, but in fact, perceive open shade and overcast lighting conditions as being the same color temperature as daylight, but in fact, this is usually not the case. In most outdoor situations, open shade and overcast light has a slightly higher color temperature. This means that the light in these conditions is slightly bluer. NOTE: Technically, the Cloudy preset is calibrated to about 6500K and the Shade preset is set to about 7500K. In this example, we decided to shoot a portrait on a bright sunny day in a large patch of open shade. As you can see from this wide-angle view, our subject was positioned in the shade, while the background was lit by full sunlight. [figure 16] Figure 16 First, we zoomed in a little tighter on the lens, set the White Balance to Daylight, and took a shot. [figure 17] To the untrained eye, this image could pass as acceptable. This is perhaps why many photographers are not entirely clear on the difference between the Daylight and the Shade settings. Nevertheless, if you pay close attention to the color balance in this image, you'll notice a slight blue color shift, especially in the skin tones, which is where color matters most in portraiture. [figure 18] Figure 17 Figure 18 Next, we set the White Balance to Shade and took another shot. [figures 19 & 20] Figure 19 Figure 20 In this result, we see improved color balance, as the skin tones are rendered more accurately. Notice how the blue color cast that was present in the previous result is not apparent here. Below, you can see a comparison of these two images, along with an Auto White Balance exposure. Here, the difference between the Daylight setting and the Shade setting is fairly obvious. The Auto setting, by contrast, has rendered an image with a slight magenta cast. Figure 21 The Cloudy White Balance preset is very similar to the Shade preset. The color temperature of light projected from an overcast day (6500K) is somewhat higher than that of midday sunlight (5500K), but not quite as high as shade (7500K). shade (7500K). Here, we see the Cloudy White Balance preset selected from the Olympus E-3 camera menu. [figure 22] Figure 22 The image comparisons below show photographs taken in overcast lighting conditions using the Daylight, Cloudy, and Auto White Balance settings. [figure 23] Figure 23 As you can see, the Cloudy setting produced the most neutral result in these conditions. The Daylight setting produced a slight blue color cast, while the Auto White Balance setting produced a slight magenta cast. Other Presets By now, you should have a pretty clear understanding of how the White Balance presets work on the Olympus E3. You may also notice that there are several other presets available on the E-3. There are 3 different presets for fluorescent lighting, which are useful for different types of fluorescent lamps (warm, neutral, and cool). There is fluorescent lighting, which are useful for different types of fluorescent lamps (warm, neutral, and cool). There is also a setting for Flash, which is recommended when using the built-in flash, an accessory shoe mount flash, or studio strobes. Now, let's examine the more precise ways in which to control the White Balance setting on the E-3. Custom White Balance (CWB) The Olympus E-3's Custom White Balance mode is a favorite among many professional photographers because it allows them to dial in the actual color temperature of the light source, which they can measure using handheld color meters. Below, you can see how to change the Custom White Balance settings on the Olympus E-3. [figures 24 & 25] Figure 24 Figure 25 When film was the only capture medium available, the task of achieving color balance was much more complex and required one to know the color temperature of the light source prior to shooting. The photographer could then choose the appropriate type of film (daylight- or Tungsten-balanced) and compensate for any minor differences using colored gels on the lights or filters over the lens. In the digital format, we no longer have to take such measures to achieve color balance. However, the E-3 does allow you to control the White Balance with great precision, especially when you already have a sense of the color temperature that you are working in. The Custom White Balance mode allows you to select a specific color temperature in increments of 100K. For example, if you know that your light source is exactly 3200K, then you could simply dial in 3200K within the Custom White Balance (CWB) mode. Another way to use the CWB mode is for creative color effects. Let's explore this method first before getting into the more traditional method of using CWB. The image shown here is the same one used in our previous discussion about the Cloudy White Balance preset. This image was shot using the Cloudy preset as the White Balance setting and the color balance appears to be pretty neutral in this case. [figure 26] Because this image is relatively monochromatic, however, it lends itself nicely to different interpretations using extreme color cast effects. Figure 26 In the following examples, you can see how the same image can take on a dramatically different feel, depending on what color shift we choose to apply. [figures 27 & 28] Figure 27 Figure 28 The image on the left was given a dramatic blue color cast by using a Custom White Balance setting of 2800K. This image has a very cold, almost wintery feeling. The image on the right was taken with a Custom White Balance setting of 10,000K, which produced a very dramatic yellow/orange color cast. This version has a very warm, inviting feeling and is kind of reminiscent of sunset light. Keep in mind that these two examples are exaggerated with respect to color in order to demonstrate the effects you can achieve. We recommend experimenting for yourself to see how far you want to go with your own images using either subtler or more dramatic shifts in color balance. If nothing else, it will at least help you better understand the concept of color temperature and White Balance. Working in Mixed Lighting Conditions The following set of examples demonstrate how the Custom White Balance setting can be used in a mixed lighting The following set of examples demonstrate how the Custom White Balance setting can be used in a mixed lighting situation when the actual color temperature of the lighting is not entirely clear. For this next shot, we decided to photograph the interior of an old office building. This interior had several light sources at play, all of which had different color temperatures. The images below depict the overall scene and show these different light sources. Most of the hallway was lit with a series of overhead lanterns. While it was safe to assume that the lamps in these lanterns were most likely Tungsten, the lamp shades were somewhat beige, which we figured would lower the color temperature of the lamps. [figures 29 & 30] Figure 29 Figure 30 Additionally, we had to factor in two different skylights located inside the hallway, as well as the giant window located directly behind the camera. All of these light sources were daylight-balanced, but were most likely inconsistent in terms of their color temperatures. Our first instinct was to let the camera figure it all out for us. So to start, we set the White Balance to the Auto Preset, composed the shot, figured out the correct exposure, and fired away. [figure 31] Figure 31 While this result isn't bad, the color balance is not exactly neutral. Keep in mind that with a mixed lighting situation such as this, the so-called "accurate color balance" can be quiet subjective. However, there are a few details that we can pay close attention to when capturing the image to help us decide how to properly select the White Balance setting. The Live View Mode In this situation, we decided to employ another handy feature on the Olympus E-3 called the Live View Mode. The E-3 is one of the few professional SLRs that has such a feature. The Live View Mode allows the user to view the image in real time on the LCD and see the effect of any changes such as exposure and White Balance before pressing the shutter to capture the image. This feature is extremely useful in difficult lighting situations. The diagrams below illustrate how to activate and use the Live View Mode to change and preview your Custom White Balance settings. [figures 32 & 33] Figure 32 Figure 33 We experimented with several color temperature settings using the Live View Mode to preview the result on screen in real time. Based on what we saw in the Live View Mode, we settled on the ideal Custom White Balance setting of 2800K. As compared to the previous result using the Auto WB setting, this result is much more accurate in terms of color balance. [figure 34] Figure 34 To gauge the appropriate color balance for this particular image, we paid close attention to the floor in the shot. Unlike everything else in the photograph, the carpet was a neutral gray color. This meant that if we could reproduce the carpet as a neutral gray, then the rest of the colors would fall in line. Shown below is a side-by-side comparison of three different results. First we used the Auto WB setting, which produced a red color bias. Then, we dialed in a Custom White Balance setting of 3200K thinking that the majority of the lighting in the hallway was probably Tungsten lighting and that 3200K would bring us closer to a neutral color balance in the image. [figure 35] Figure 35 3200K was close, but not close enough for perfect color balance. As you can see, the 3200K result still shows a yellow color bias. This meant that the actual color temperature of the lighting was significantly lower than the average Tungsten color temperature that we had predicted. The final neutral, color-balanced result required a CWB setting of 2800K. Notice that the small patches of daylight coming in through various parts of the image appear blue. For us this was okay, so long as the majority of the colors in the shot appeared natural and that the carpet, our point of reference, was rendered neutral. Now that we've covered several methods for adjusting the White Balance and using White Balance creatively, let's examine another method you can use with the Olympus E-3. The One Touch White Balance feature on the E-3 is usually the most accurate method of attaining optimal, color-balanced results under most lighting conditions. When used properly, this method will compensate for even the tiniest variations or fluctuations in color temperature and yield perfectly neutral results. Best of all, it is very easy and fun to use! One Touch White Balance The One Touch White Balance feature is a simple concept. Instead of having to figure out what you think the White Balance should be for a given situation, you can simply point the camera at a blank sheet of neutral white paper (or photographic gray card) that is lit by the same light source as your subject and the camera will calculate paper (or photographic gray card) that is lit by the same light source as your subject and the camera will calculate the exact White Balance setting required to achieve color balance. Here's how it works in practice. Get a sheet of neutral white paper (a clean sheet of inkjet paper usually works well) or gray card (available at photo supply stores) and hold it in front of the lens, making sure that the lighting on the paper is exactly the same as the lighting on the subject. [figure 36] Make sure that the paper fills up the entire frame inside the viewfinder. In this case, we'll demonstrate this technique using the same tabletop still life set-up that we showed earlier in the lesson. With the white paper positioned carefully in front of the lens, hold down the Fn Button and then press the shutter release. [figure 37] Figure 36 Figure 37 The camera will then prompt you to save your One Touch White Balance setting as one of four possible One Touch presets, which you can select again at any time. [figures 38 & 39] This is a very useful feature because it allows you to program up to four different One Touch WB settings and the camera will remember each, even after it's been turned off. This way, if you find yourself moving repeatedly from one type of lighting scenario to another, you can store a One Touch WB setting for each one. Figure 38 Figure 39 Once we had our One Touch WB setting saved as a preset, we selected it and photographed the still life again so that we could compare the result with our previous result using the Tungsten preset. The One Touch WB result is shown here. [figure 40] Figure 40 Here's the side-by-side comparison that shows the original result using the Auto WB setting, the result using the Tungsten setting, and the final result using the One Touch WB setting. [figure 41] Figure 41 As you can see, the One Touch WB setting produced a more neutral result compared to the Tungsten preset. This is further confirmed with the RGB values taken from the neutral gray area in the background using the info palette in Adobe Photoshop. When the RGB values are the same (or close to it) then we know that the value is neutral or in Adobe Photoshop. When the RGB values are the same (or close to it) then we know that the value is neutral or has the same amount of Red, Green, and Blue. When the numbers are different, then we can see that there is a color bias or that the value is not neutral. Of course, this only works if you have a perfectly neutral area in the image, such as the neutral gray background that we used for this still life. Here is a closer look at the subtle, yet significant difference in accuracy between the standard Tungsten preset and the One Touch WB result. [figure 42] Figure 42 In summary, the Olympus E-3 offers numerous features and methods for controlling White Balance. Once you have built up enough confidence to move beyond the Auto mode, you'll find that the E-3 can give you all of the control you'll ever need to achieve accurate color balance. Remember that there is no "right" way to color balance an image. Every situation is different, as is every photographer. Take time to experiment with all of these White Balance features and see how you can best utilize the many options available to you with the Olympus E-3. Above all, remember to have fun! Equipment Used: You can click on the blue links below for more info. Camera/Media Olympus 12-60mm f/2.8-4 Digital Zuiko zoom lens Olympus E-3 Lighting Equipment Photoflex Boom Photoflex BoomStand Photoflex ProDuty BackDrop Support Kit Photoflex SilverDome nxt Medium 24x32x17 Photoflex Starlite QL Recommended Links To learn more about Photoflex equipment, go to www.photoflex.com For more detailed digital photography lessons, visit www.webphotoschool.com © Copyright 2008 Olympus Digital School I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users. It has removed 2083 spam emails to date. Paying users do not have this message in their emails. Try SPAMfighter for free now!