THE COSMETIC SUMMIT Newsletter - Intermountain West Society

Third Quarter 2015
Intermountain West Society
Of Cosmetic Chemists
THE COSMETIC SUMMIT
Newsletter
Industry Insider
IMWSCC Board
Chair
Eric Scarborough
[email protected]
Chair Elect
Rick Bruen
[email protected]
Secretary
Rachel Sabin
[email protected]
Treasurer
Kelsey Larsen
[email protected]
Newsletter Editor
Rachel Sabin
[email protected]
Assistant Editor
Position Available
Newsletter Publisher
Brianna Purinton
[email protected]
Third Quarter Sponsors:
AAK
LIPSCOMB
1
2
3
4
5
6
Neways’ Top Ten Favorite Restaurants
P.F. Changs! My favorite dish is their lettuce
wraps with beef and
broccoli. – Randall
BLTA Croissant
at Red Robin.
– Tiffany
Happy Sumo in the Riverwoods. My favorite dish
there is the Baja Roll—
spicy!!! – JoDee
I am pretty simple. I like
the Tour of Italy at Olive
Garden. – Heidi
I like the BBQ chicken
and pork grilled with a
ton of garlic and chili
sauce at the Mongolian
Grill in Springville. – Keith
I’m happy just grabbing a steak at Sizzler.
– Richard
7
8
9
Magleby’s
in
Springville is my
favorite and my
preferred
dish
there is Wonderful Halibut
with vegetables. – Jane
Café Rio and my favorite dish is the shredded
beef salad. – Kristen
When I have a break
or cheat day from my
diet, Two Jacks Pizza in
Spanish Fork or Springville is where I go. Choice of
pizza is Canadian bacon and
mushrooms. However, their other pizzas are quite delicious too.
– James
10
I love a good
burger. Cubby’s
Dragon Slayer
cooked through,
not well done. – Brad
Table of Contents
2015 Sunscreen Symposium
SCC Florida Chapter
September 16-19
Orlando, Florida
Industry Insider p.1
Chemists Corner p. 3-4
Visit http://imwscc.org/currentevents.html for
more details
Supplier Spotlight p. 5
IMWSCC Spotlight p. 7
Regulatory Department p. 8
Morninga Butter: Ancient Botanical in Modern
Form p. 10-14
Company Spotlight p. 15
TnT Meeting Agenda p. 16-17
IOU Meeting Synopsis p. 19
The Soul & Science
of Beauty.
Evonik Industries AG Essen, Germany PHONE +49 201 173-2854
Evonik Corporation Hopewell, Virginia, USA PHONE +1 804 541-8658
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.evonik.com/personal-care
2 IMWSCC
3rd Quarter 2015
EVGPC-3186 S&SofB Ad 4x4.indd 1
12/3/13 1:17 PM
Read to Win!
Somewhere in the newsletter
we’ve hidden the IMWSCC
favicon symbol it looks like this
. Spot it and email Eric
([email protected])
the page number and place where
it is and you’ll be entered in a
drawing for a chance to win a gift
card at the next meeting.
Perry Romanowski: ChemistsCorner.com
Why the EWG Skin Deep Database is Still a
Dubious Source
By: Perry Romanowski
The EWG gets a lot of criticism for flaws in their database,
but I have to give them credit where credit is due. They
have fixed at least one flaw that I pointed out in a previous
post. They used to have a listing for a fictional compound,
POLYPARABEN, and they have since removed it. They
still list Polyparaben as a synonym for Propylparaben but
that is a minor mistake. I find it encouraging that they have
fixed anything.
Profit over Safety
I also criticized them for profiting off of what they consider
“dangerous” products. And they still do that. One of the
ways the EWG makes money is by participating in affiliate
programs, specifically the Amazon Associates program. This
is a good deal for websites because if a consumer goes to
Amazon and makes a purchase the website owner gets a
small % of the sale (somewhere between 2 and 4%).
Unfortunately, the EWG seems more concerned about
their Amazon Associates sales than they do about consumer
safety. After all, why would they put an affiliate link to a
product they rate as the worst of the worst?
Aveeno Active Naturals Radiant Tinted Moisturizer has a
rating of 10. A 10 rating is the most dangerous product
that can be found in the Skin Deep Database (according to
them). But if you click on the picture they’ll be happy to
have you buy the product through their affiliate program. If
a product was this dangerous how could the EWG possibly
encourage people to buy it?
Ratings Based on Nothing
One of the “improvements” recently added to the Skin Deep
Database was an additional rating of the quality of data
supporting the safety rating. This is understandable since
ratings based on single studies are much weaker than ratings
based on lots of studies. However, this does not seem to
affect the way they rate ingredients.
For example, how can an ingredient like HYDROGENATED
PALM GLYCERIDES get a zero rating? A zero rating is the
most safe you can score. They admit that this rating is based
on no data. What is it based on? I have no idea.
Maybe they think Palm Glycerides sounds natural so it gets
a zero rating with no data but then how would you explain
the zero rating based on no data for HYDROXYETHYL
ACRYLATE/
SODIUM
ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL
TAURATE COPOLYMER? There is certainly nothing
natural about an acrylic polymer.
You could say that zero is the starting point so any ingredient
that has zero data will get a zero rating. This seems rather
silly but it would be logical. Of course, this is not the case.
Consider these examples…
1. PEG-150 DISTEARATE – Rating 3, no data
2. TEA COCOYL HYDROLYZED COLLAGEN –
Rating 4, no data
3. PEG-2 SOYAMINE – Rating 5, no data
4. SODIUM OCTOXYNOL-2 ETHANE SULFONATE
– Rating 6, no data
Without any data, how did these ingredients get a rating?
Naive Ratings
Another criticism of the EWG database is that the ratings
demonstrate a lack of understanding of the raw materials
they are rating. For example, they list SODIUM COCOYL
SULFATE and give it a zero rating with zero data. They also
have a listing for SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE and give
it a 1-2 rating with a “fair” amount of data. This makes no
sense.
Anyone who knows chemistry knows that Sodium Cocoyl
Sulfate is essentially the same thing as Sodium Lauryl
Sulfate.
So how is it that two chemicals which are essentially identical
have different ratings? All the fair amount of data that is
available for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate is equally applicable to
Sodium Cocoyl Sulfate!
If any knowledgeable chemist was involved in making the
database, this problem of naivety could be avoided.
3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 3
Chemist Corner Continued:
LIPSCOMB
Is there anything else?
CHEMICAL COMPANY
There are some good things about the EWG Skin Deep Database. I do
like that you can look up ingredients and compare them to different
products on the market. This is quite handy for a formulator. And if
a person is allergic to any specific ingredient, it’s especially helpful to
know what you can avoid.
A member of the Omya group
Providing Specialty Ingredients to the Personal Care Industry
However, the hazard ratings and collected science are mostly rubbish
and not worth paying attention to. If you want a more reliable
database, consider looking at the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. This
one is actually collated by toxicologists and other people with science
backgrounds. And if you want one produced by the EU, the European
Commission website will be more helpful.
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3rd Quarter
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Supplier Spotlight: CoValence® Laboratories
Key Personnel
• Pete Vlcek, CEO
• John Wochner, CSO
• Melinda Wochner, CMO
• James McCoy, CFO
• John Stanek, Director of Research and Development
Technologies, Patents, New Products
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Since 1989, our advanced skin care concepts and formulas have
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and technologies in the national and international personal care
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• EU, Canadian and ASEAN dossier assistance
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3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 5
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3rd Quarter 2015
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Spotlight:
Keith Murphy
Where were you born?
Great Falls, Montana aka Big Sky Country.
As a child, what did you want to be when you grew
up?
I wanted to be a pilot in the air force. Since I haven’t
yet grown up, there is still a chance!
Favorite Hobbies?
I enjoy almost everything outdoors, especially hiking,
fishing, and camping.
Favorite TV Show?
Since I do not watch much TV, the one that comes
to mind is Bob Ross doing his paintings. The way he
described his art was intriguing along with the way it
all came together in an effortless manner.
Favorite Movie?
Top Gun- this movie made me want to be a pilot.
Another favorite is Sleepless in Seattle because of
how sweet Meg Ryan is in that film. I really have not
watched many movies because I prefer to be outside.
On the weekend, you will most likely be found…
I would be hard to track down in the mountains
because I would probably be exploring the back
country. If I were in an accessible location, it would
likely be at a golf course, favorite fishing spot, or on a
snowboard.
Any nicknames we should know about?
Murph, Smurphy, Slim, and a few that I won’t
mention. :)
What is the most adventurous thing you’ve
ever done?
I went on a five day backpacking trip in the desert.
I survived but I was much thinner at the end.
During the hike I jumped off a couple high cliffs
into cold refreshing water.
What was your last vacation?
Lake Tahoe to go boating and exploring.
If you could have a super-power what would
it be?
I would love to have the power to bring more peace
into the world.
What is your favorite quote?
“Only when the last tree has died, the last river
been poisoned, and the last fish been caught will we
realize we cannot eat money.” Cree Indian Proverb
3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 7
[email protected]
Formulating Regulatory Friendly Products
D. Scott Taylor
“Some ingredients in this product can only be used in drugs,
you’re going to have to switch preservatives, organic claims
will only be valid in the United States, fragrance free will have
to be changed and the names for the exclusive ingredients
will have to receive INCI names from the Personal Care
Products Council (PCPC) before the ingredient panel can be
added to the label. Or, you can sell it and hope you don’t get
caught.” After my comments, I looked around the room at
the disgruntled faces of the executives as Regulatory Affairs,
a.k.a. “the department of sales prevention”, had once again
lived up to its inglorious moniker.
1.Is this product going to be allowed in our international markets?
The product development team was so excited to tell me
that the formulation was ready, contract manufacturer was in
place and the pilot batch would soon be complete. All they
needed was to register the product in their current markets
and compile the documentation. The testing had
been carried out so that they could
make specific claims
on the products and
additional testing for
subsequent claims
was also scheduled.
6. Are there any changes in the foreseeable future that will affect
the acceptability of this product?
The products were
scheduled to be
launched in the United States within the next six months
and 15 additional countries were to be ready within the
next 18 months. The problem wasn’t the timeline or the
formula efficacy; the problem was the product didn’t meet
the regulatory requirements for some of the international
countries. Regulations are different from country to
country and are especially diverse for preservatives,
whitening agents, sunscreens, colorants, testing methods,
classifications and claims.
Prevention vs reaction - it is much easier and much more cost
effective to apply sunscreen than get rid of melanoma. By
coordinating formulation activities with regulatory research, you
can optimize your chances of having a viable formula for the
US and international markets. Not only will you save money,
mitigate the risk of reformulation and save some hairs on your
head, you will also be able to spend more time preparing for next
year’s golf tournament.
2. What testing methods must be used for safety
requirements abroad?
3. Will the introduction of certain ingredients change the
classification of the product?
4. Which claims can be made and what are the substantiation/
testing requirements?
5. Do the manufacturers have the necessary documentation/
certifications for the registration processes?
If these questions are answered, R&D will have the basis upon
which to build
their formulation.
Ingredients
can be selected
from
acceptable
manufacturers and
reformulation will
only have to occur for
organoleptic or technical reasons.
Scott Taylor
The Regulatory Department
(801) 754-4443
[email protected]
After the meeting, I regretfully informed R&D that they
should cancel the pilot (if possible), change the preservative
system (as well as the total % of preservative to formula),
apply for INCI names, cancel the new ingredient/finish
product testing on animals and cancel the tests for
The only fully operational fragrance laboratory and
acne, anti-bacterial properties and rosacea/skin irritation
manufacturer on the West Coast, creating aromas for
reduction. Simply put, they had a product they couldn’t
perfumes and colognes, household, personal care,
export with claims they couldn’t make. This resulted in
hair care and air care products.
a very frustrated product development team.
Even though this was a big hassle, a valuable lesson was
learned and new SOPs reflected that gained knowledge.
When a new product is coming out or a product needs
to be reformulated, there are a number of questions that
need to be answered before formulation occurs.
8 IMWSCC
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3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 9
es
he
n
our
s
as
4
a
ve
s.4
wn
s
NATURALS
Tiffany N. Oliphant – Floratech, Robert A. Harper PhD – Harper & Associates
Tiffany Oliphant, Chad Dubbelde – Floratech, US
enhances skin barrier
recovery
from& Associates, US
Robert
A Harper – Harper
barrier damage as well as increases skin
hydration. The increase in skin hydration
was also correlated with consumer
perception of skin moisture.
Moringa butter: anc
botanical in modern
Moringa Butter: Ancient Botanical in Modern Form
By: Tiffany N. Oliphant and Robert A Harper, PhD
Moringa butter is derived from the oil ofthe seeds of Moringa oleifera, a tree native to India. Moringa butter may infer certain skin benefits,
when incorporated into hair and skin care products. Clinical data indicate that
butter
enhances skin
recovery from barrier
Themoringa
use of
moringa
oil,barrier
by ancient
damage as well as increases skin hydration. The increase in skin hydration was also correlated with consumer perception of skin moisture.
Egyptians has been recorded in
On Earth hieroglyphs.
Day 2008, as isskin-feel
the annual
In fact,
non-greasy
with Egyptologists have
On Earth Day 2008, as is the annual tradition, the US
tradition, the US National Institutes of
low aodour
and colour
to applications and
National Institutes of Health hosted a mystery plant contest.
documented
various
Health hosted
mystery plant contest.
personal
The clues for the mystery plant included:
The cluescosmetic
for the mysteryand
plant included:
formulas
containing
moringa oil for topical
4
...[it] has
medicinal
careimportant
formulations.
properties
but
is
not
endangered.
...[it] has important medicinal properties but is not endangered.
pastes and perfumes.6 Some of the
In fact, perhaps like no other single
In fact, perhaps like no other single species, this plant has thespecies,
Ancient
History
this plant has
the
potential
historical
uses
ofofthe moringa plant
potential to help reverse multiple major environmental problemsto help reverse multiple major
Moringa
Seed
Oil 1.2,7,8
environmental
problems
and
are
shown
inprovide
Table
and provide for many unmet human needs.1
for many
unmet human
needs.
Moringa
oleifera
(Fig. 1) is a
This tree
profile
accounts
Figure
oleifera
(above)
flowering
nativeundoubtedly
to the
What
was1:
thisMoringa
mystery plant
with tree
over 100
different names
What was this mystery plant with over
for
the of
therapeutic applications
and
the seeds
below.
foothills
the Himalayas
100 different
names
inhistorical
multiple
languages
in
multiple
languages
around the world? Moringa oleifera
around
the
world?
Moringa
oleifera
–
“the
in
northern
India.
It
is
– “the miracle tree” whose leaves alone contain seven times
of the moringa plant.
miracle tree” whose leaves alone contain
cultivated
in
many
parts
the vitamin C of oranges, four times the vitamin A seven
of times the vitamin C of oranges, four
mother’s milk, or are boiled and fed to times
theA ofworld
including
theof
vitamin
carrots, four
times
carrots, four times the calcium of milk, more iron than
the calcium
of milk,tropical
more iron than
children.
In
India,
the
moringa
tree
is
called
Composition
and
Africa,
Americas,
spinach, three times the potassium of bananas, and twice
spinach, three times the potassium
2,3
Sri
Lanka,
Malaysia,
and
addition,
this elongated
vitamin-rich plant
the
of yogurt.
theprotein
drumstick
treeIndue
to the
physiochemical
properties
of bananas,
and twice the protein of
4
yogurt. In
addition,
this vitamin-rich Not
the
Philippines.
contains
a
variety
of
amino
acids,
2 as well as antioxidants and
shape of its seed pods. The moringa treeplant contains
of
oil
a moringa
variety of amino
acids, as
surprisingly,
the moringa
trace elements.4
well as antioxidants and trace elements.
Figure 1: Moringa oleifera tree (above)
is also known by various other names
Moringa
seeds
yield up
to 40% oil by
tree attributes
is known
many
The positive
of theby
moringa
and the seeds below.
The
positive
attributes
of
the
moringa
tree
do
not
end
with
tree do not
end
with
its
nutritional
names.extraction.
In Senegal it
is resulting oil contains
throughout Africa, Asia, South and
cold
The
mother’s milk, or are boiled and fed to
benefits. In fact, the seed oil from
its nutritional benefits. In fact, the seed oil from5 Moringa
known
as
nebeday
(the
tree
that never dies) because
it is
able
children. In India, the
moringa tree
is called
Moringa oleifera
has the
highestoleic
oxidative triglycerides,
Central
America,
and
the
Caribbean.
almost
70%
which
is
oleifera has the highest oxidative stability of any vegetable
survive
disasters
such as fire
it grows
quickly
(up to 12
the and
drumstick
tree due
to the elongated
stability oftoany
vegetable
oil available.
shape
of its
pods.
Moringa oil
also imparts
severalto
The
moringa
tree
comparable
other
triglyceride
oils
such
oil available. Moringa oil also imparts several favourable
metres
per year).
In the
Philippines
theseed
moringa
tree
is known
favourable aesthetic properties, such as
is also known by various other names
aesthetic properties, such as providing a rich, cushiony,
as
a olive
mother’s
best
friend because
moringa
leaves
ornon-greasy
canola.
However,
moringa
oil
providing as
a rich,
cushiony,
throughout
Africa,
Asia,
Southare
andused to
skin-feel with
low odour
colour toof a mother’s
increase
theand
amount
milk, orandare
Central America,
theboiled
Caribbean.
a lower
iodine value of ~70 g/100 and
g fed
cosmetic has
andchildren.
personal
care
to
Informulations.
India, the moringa tree is called the drumstick
2 oil
compared
~84 shape
g/100
forpods.
olive
The moringa
tree
due to of
the to
elongated
of itsgseed
Ancient
history
4,9
moringa
treeseed
is ~118
alsooilknown
by various
other
names oil.
throughout
Africa,
and
g/100
g
for
canola
Iodine
5
Moringa oleifera (Fig. 1) is a flowering
Asia,
South
and
Central
America,
and
the
Caribbean.
tree native
to the foothills
of theindication of how readily the
value
is one
Himalayas in northern India. It is
The
useparts
ofbecome
moringa
oil,
by ancient
Egyptians
has been recorded
will
rancid
due
to oxidation.
cultivatedoil
in many
of the world
including in
Africa,
tropical Americas,
Srifact, Egyptologists have documented
hieroglyphs.
In
Another
of oxidative stability is
Lanka, Malaysia,
and theindicator
Philippines.
various
applications
and formulas containing moringa oil
Not surprisingly,
the moringa
tree is known
the
“Oil
Stability
Index” 6orSome
OSI.of Properly
by many names.
In Senegal
it is known
for topical
pastes
and perfumes.
the historical uses
2,7,8
as nebeday
(the
tree
that
never
dies)
prepared
commercially
available
moringa
of
the
moringa
plant
are
shown
in
Table
1.
This profile
because it is able to survive disasters
1
undoubtedly
accounts
such as fire
andhas
it growsan
quickly
(up to for the historical
oil
unexpectedly
hightherapeutic
OSI of
12 metres per year). In the Philippines
the moringa
tree is known
as a mother’s
~133
hours,
compared to similarly
Composition
and
best friend
because moringa leaves
are Physiochemical Properties
treated
vegetable
oils which have typical
used to increase
the amount
of a
of Moringa Oil
OSI
values of ~30 hours. Moringa oil is
2 P E R SMoringa
O N A L C A R E Reprinted from June 2011
seeds yield up to 40% oil by cold extraction. The
also
unique
in its
low70%
freeoleic
fatty
acid which is
resulting
oil contains
almost
triglycerides,
content.
fatty
acids oils
cansuch
beasirritating
comparable Free
to other
triglyceride
olive or canola.
However,
moringa
oil has a oil
lower
iodine
to
the skin.
Moringa
has
anvalue
acidof ~70 g/100
g compared to ~84 g/100 g for olive oil and4 ~118 g/100 g for
value
of less than 1 mg KOH/g.
canola oil.4,9 Iodine value is one indication of how readily the
Unsaponifiable substances, which
1
2,3
4
2
5
4
4
10 IMWSCC
3rd Quarter 2015
ABSTRA
Moring
the see
native t
certain
into ha
data in
enhanc
barrier
hydratio
was als
percept
The u
Egyptian
hieroglyp
documen
formulas
pastes a
historica
are show
This p
for the h
of the m
Comp
physio
of mo
Moringa
cold extr
almost 7
compara
as olive
has a low
compare
and ~11
value is
oil will be
Another
the “Oil S
prepared
oil1 has a
~133 ho
treated v
OSI valu
also uniq
content.
to the sk
value of
Unsap
NATU
recovery compared to the formulation
without which only resulted in 21% barrier
tocopherols
and sterols,
generally
oil The
willsterol
become
rancid
due tooil
oxidation.
Anotherinclude
indicator
of oxidative
stability
is therecovery,80p<0.05 (Fig. 2). There was no
portion
in moringa
has
5
4,10
70
from 0.7%-1.1%
in vegetable
content
of beta-sitosterol.
“Oila high
Stability
Index”
or OSI. Properly
preparedrange
commercially
available
moringaoils.
oil1statistically significant difference between
The
sterol
portion
in
moringa
oil
has
the 2% moringa butter formula and the
is known
its antihasBeta-sitosterol
an unexpectedly
highforOSI
of ~133 hours, compared to similarly treated vegetable
70
a60high content of beta-sitosterol.4,10
5% petrolatum
formula (positive control,
inflammatory effect and its restorative
oilsproperties
which have
typical
OSI
values
of
~30
hours.
Moringa
oil
is
also
unique
in
its
low
Beta-sitosterol is known for its antiwhich resulted in 79% barrier recovery).
which help to support the skin
4,11
freehydrolipid
fatty acid
content.
acids can be irritating
to the
skin.
oil has
60
inflammatory
effect
and Moringa
its restorative
barrier.
ThisFree
may fatty
be why
50
4
properties
which
help
to
support
the
skin Skin hydration
an moringa
acid value
of
less
than
1
mg
KOH/g.
oil is increasingly used and
hydrolipid barrier.4,11 This may be why
valued in cosmetics such as anti-age
Various butters
(moringa, shea, olive, and
50
40
moringa oiland
is increasingly
used and range cocoa) were incorporated into anhydrous
Unsaponifiable
sterols, generally
creams, soaps,substances,
liquid soaps, which
body include tocopherols
in cosmetics
such oil
as anti-age
washes,
deodorants,
and face creams.
at 10% and tested
from
0.7%-1.1%
in vegetable
oils.5 13The sterolvalued
portion
in moringa
has a high stick formulations
40
30
4,10
creams,
soaps, liquid soaps, body
for
skin
hydration
using
a Corneometer
Beta-sitosterol is known for its antiinflammatory effect
content of beta-sitosterol.
13
washes, deodorants, and face creams.4,11
CM 825 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne,
An uncommon butter
andButters
its restorative
properties which help to support
the skin hydrolipid barrier. Germany)30in a double-blind, randomised,
20
of vegetable oils are increasingly
This
may
be
why
moringa
oil
is
increasingly
used
and
valued in cosmetics
An uncommon
butter such as vehicle controlled, in vivo clinical study.
common to the cosmetic industry.
13
20 show that after one application
Butters
of
vegetable
oils
arecreams.
increasingly The results
anti-age
creams,
soaps,
liquid
soaps,
body
washes,
deodorants,
and
face
They are typically made by partially
10
common to the cosmetic industry.
of the test articles, the formulation
hydrogenating common vegetable oils.
They are typically made by partially
containing
contrast, moringa butter
is made by
10 10% moringa butter increased
AnInUncommon
Butter
0
hydrogenating
Vehicle common
Vehicle +vegetable
Positiveoils.
skin hydration at every time point up to
interesterifying moringa oil and fully
2% moringa
In contrast,
butter iscontrol
made by
four hours,
far better than any of the other
hydrogenated
moringa
oil,are
thusincreasingly
preserving common
Butters
of vegetable
oils
to themoringa
cosmetic
0
butter industry. They
Vehicle
Vehiclep<0.05
+
Positive
interesterifying moringa oil and fully
butter-containing
test articles,
the natural cis configuration of each
are double
typically
made by partially hydrogenating hydrogenated
common vegetable
In preserving
contrast, (Fig. 3). The anhydrous 2%
moringa
control
moringa oils.
oil,
thus
stick
containing
bond. The result is a butter with
Figure 2: Average percentage
barrier
butter
moringa
butter
is
made
by
interesterifying
moringa
oil
and
fully
hydrogenated
the natural
the moringa butter produced a peak skin
no trans fats. Moringa butter is also
recovery
(TEWL). cis configuration of each
moringa
oil,and
thus
preserving
the and
natural cis configuration
each
double
bond.with
The hydration
double bond.ofThe
result
is a butter
of percentage
55%, whichbarrier
was
odourless
less
greasy, tacky,
Figureincrease
2: Average
no trans
fats.
Moringa
butter
isless
also
(TEWL).the skin hydration
than double
glossy
mostwith
butters,
notablyfats.
shea,
order
to ascertain
result
is athan
butter
no trans
Moringaproperties)
butter
isinalso
odourless
andthe
greasy, morerecovery
odourless
and
less greasy,
tacky,
and in produced by any of the other test articles.
and and
can contribute
to strength
in stick notablybenefits
on skin
barrier
recovery
due
to
tacky,
glossy than
most butters,
shea,
and
can
contribute
to
strength
glossy
mostskin
butters,
notably
shea,
properties) in order to ascertain the
systems. It is also extremely oxidatively
damage
bythan
a known
irritant,
sodium
stick
systems. It is also extremely oxidativelylauryl
stable
with
an even lower
iodine
value. The
acid value
alsobarrier
remains
less than
and
can contribute
to strength
inwater
stick
benefits
on skin
recovery
due to1 mg
stable with an even lower iodine value.
sulfate
(SLS). Transepidermal
Consumer
perception
KOH/g.
Moringa
butter
is easy
to work with
because
melting
pointoxidatively
of 50°C toA 55°C.
systems.
It its
isused
also
extremely
damage by randomised
a known skincomparative
irritant, sodium
The acid
value also
remains
less than
loss
(TEWL) of
was
to
measure
the
double-blind,
stableofwith
an even
lower
value. studylauryl
(SLS). Transepidermal
water
1 mg KOH/g. Moringa butter is easy to
recovery
the skin
barrier
in aiodine
doubleusingsulfate
two anhydrous
stick
In work
orderwith
to because
test the ofpotential
benefit
butter
in aalso
small
studies
were
investigating
The
acid value
remains
than clinical
loss
(TEWL)
wascarried
used
to out
measure
the
its melting
point of moringa
blind,
randomised,
informulation,
vivo
clinicalless
study.
formulations
containing
10%
moringa
1 was
mg and
KOH/g.
Moringa
butter
isaseasy
recovery
of the
skin
barrier
in a doublemoringa
skin
hydration,
wellto as butter
consumer
perception
of respectively,
various
product
of 50˚Cbutter’s
to 55˚C.benefit on skin barrier recovery
TEWL
determined
using
a Tewameter
and 10%
shea
butter,
13randomised,
work
with
because
of
its
melting
point
blind,
in
vivo
clinical
study.
In
order
to
test
the
potential
benefit
TM300
(Courage+Khazaka,
Cologne,
was
conducted
by
31
female
consumers
attributes. The clinical results show that the moringa butter is indeed beneficial to the skin.
of 50˚C
55˚C. untreated forearm
TEWL was
determined
using
a Tewameter
of moringa butter in a formulation,
Germany)
onto
normal,
for various
product
aesthetics
including
In order to
the potential
benefit suchTM300
(Courage+Khazaka,
small clinical studies were carried out
skin (baseline).
Thetest
forearms
were then
attributes
as absorbency, Cologne,
Skin
Barrier Recovery
of moringa
butter
in a formulation,
Germany)moisturisation,
on normal, untreated
forearm
investigating moringa butter’s benefit on
exposed
to a 0.3%
solution
(w/w) of
spreadability,
and nonsmall
clinical
studies
were
carried
out
skin
(baseline).
The
forearms
were
then
skin
barrier
recovery
and
skin
hydration,
SLS
for
approximately
18
hours
under
greasiness.
In
all
cases
the
formulation
A simple lotion formulation with and without 2% moringa butter (Floralipids Moringa Butter, INCI: Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated
investigating
moringa
butter’s
benefit
on
exposed
to
a
0.3%
solution
(w/w)
of
as
well
as
consumer
perception
of
various
occlusion
using
19
mm
Hill
Top
Chambers
containing
10%
moringa
butter
was
Moringa Oil Esters, Floratech, Chandler, AZ) was tested against the same lotion formulation containing 5% petrolatum (positive
barrier recovery
and skin
hydration, preferred
SLS for
approximately
18 hours
under
product attributes. The clinical results
(Hill skin
Top Research,
Cincinnati,
Ohio).
over
the formulation
containing
control
because of its known occlusion properties)
in order to ascertain
the benefits
on skinshea
barrier
recovery
due
toTop
damage
by a
asmeasurements
well as consumer
of various 10%occlusion
using
194).
mm
show that the moringa butter is indeed
TEWL
wereperception
again made
butter
(Fig.
In Hill
terms
ofChambers
known
skin to
irritant,
sodium
lauryl sulfate (SLS).
Transepidermal
water
loss
(TEWL)
used
to
measure
the
recovery
of the skin
13
product
attributes.chamber
The clinical
results was
(Hill Top
Research,
Cincinnati,
Ohio).
beneficial
the skin.
30 minutes
following
removal
“overall”
preference,
the
formula
containing
barrier in a doubleblind, randomised, in vivo clinical
TEWL
wasbutter
determined
a Tewameter
TM300
(Courage+Khazaka,
that the
moringa
indeedusing
TEWLmoringa
measurements
were
again made
and show
the study.
percentage
increase
fromisbaseline
the
10%
butter was
preferred
13
to the
30
minutes
following
chamber
removal
was beneficial
determined.
The skin.
forearms
were thenwere five
to exposed
one
over to
the
containing
Skin Germany)
barrier recovery
Cologne,
on normal, untreated forearm
skin (baseline).
The
forearms
then
aformula
0.3%
solution
(w/w) of
andResearch,
the
percentage
increaseOhio).
from baseline
treated
hourly
with the
10%
shea
butter.
simple
lotion formulation
with and
SLSA for
approximately
18 hours
under occlusion
using
19 mm
Hillabove
Top mentioned
Chambers (HilltheTop
Cincinnati,
TEWL
was determined. The forearms were then
Skin
barrier
recovery
lotion
formulations,
followed
by additional
without 2% moringa butter (Floralipids
measurements
were again made 30 minutes following
chamber removal
and
the
percentage
increase from baseline was determined.
treated hourly with the above mentioned
A measurements
simple lotion formulation
witheach
and
TEWL
an hour after
Moringa Butter, INCI: Moringa
Conclusion
TheOil/Hydrogenated
forearms were Moringa
then treated
hourly
with
the
above
mentioned
lotion
formulations,
followed
additional
measurements
lotionby
formulations,
followed
byseed
additional
without 2%
butter
(Floralipids
application.
The moringa
percentage
barrier
recovery Moringa
Oil Esters,
butter
is derivedTEWL
from the
an Floratech,
hour afterChandler,
each application.
The
percentage
barrier
recovery
was
then
determined
relative
to
the
baseline
values.
The
results
TEWL
measurements
an
hour
after
Moringa
Butter,
INCI:
Moringa
was then determined relative to the
AZ) was tested
oil of Moringa oleifera, a tree native
to each
application.
The
percentage
barrier
recovery
Oil/Hydrogenated
Moringa
Oil
Esters,
baseline
values.
The
results
show
that
after
against
the
same
lotion
formulation
the
Himalayan
region
of
northern
India.
show that after two applications, the formulation containing 2% moringa butter resulted in 67% barrier recovery compared to the
was
thenstatistically
determined
relative
to the
Chandler,
AZ) was (Fig.
tested
two Floratech,
applications,
the formulation
containing
containing without
5% petrolatum
The was
moringa
tree’s
various
parts have
been
formulation
which(positive
only resulted in 21%
barrier recovery,
p<0.05
2). There
no
significant
difference
values.
results
show
that after
against the
same
lotion in
formulation
2% moringa
butter
resulted
67% barrier
control because of its known occlusion
usedbaseline
for centuries
forThe
their
natural
healing
between the 2% moringa butter formula and the 5%
petrolatum formula (positive control,
which
resulted inthe
79%
barrier
recovery).
two applications,
formulation
containing 5% petrolatum (positive
benefits.
Clinical results
show
that thecontaining
2% moringa
in 67%
barrier
control because of its known occlusion moringa
butter isbutter
indeedresulted
beneficial
to the
Table 1: Medicinal uses for the moringa tree.
skin. In addition, a consumer panel was
Plant part
Medicinal applications
able to perceive differences in important
Table 1: Medicinal uses for the moringa tree.
product attributes when comparing a
Roots
Anti-inflammatory, blood circulatory stimulator, and laxative
creates
and manufactures
Plant part
Medicinal applications
formulation SILAB
containing
moringa
butter with
unique, consistently safe, natural
Bark
Eye and spleen diseases, delirium, tumors, and ulcers
the
same
formulation
containing
another
activeand
ingredients
efficacy.
Roots
Anti-inflammatory, blood circulatory stimulator,
laxative with proven
Leaves
Soothing agent for sores, headaches, eye and ear infections, and as a laxative
marketed butter.13 Moringa butter can be
Bark
Eye and spleen diseases, delirium, tumors, and ulcers
Rubber
Astringent for healing tooth decay
included within formulations in the same
Leaves
Soothing agent for sores, headaches, eye and ear infections, and as a laxative
manner as You
other
butters, with much
Flowers
Treat inflammation, muscular pain, and tumors
need more information about our products?
Rubber
Astringent for healing tooth decay
enhanced
formulation
capabilities,
such
as
Please
contact
our
subsidiary SILAB
Inc.:
Seeds
Antibiotic
email: [email protected]
Flowers
Treat inflammation, muscularenhanced
pain, and tumors
aesthetic
and
increased
product
phone: 732-335-1030
Pods
Hypertensive effect
stability. Moringa butter is truly a modern
Seeds
Antibiotic
Oil
Included in paste for topical oral and skin treatments
PC
day miracle from pre-antiquity.
Pods
Hypertensive effect
include tocopherols and sterols, generally
Morninga
Continued: in vegetable oils.5
range Butter
from 0.7%-1.1%
Barrier recovery – relative to baseline (%)
Barrier recovery – relative to baseline (%)
80
Oil
Included in paste for topical oral and skin treatments
Reprinted from June
P E R 2015
S O N A L C AIMWSCC
R E 3 11
3rd2011
Quarter
recovery
without
recovery
statistic
the 2%
5% petr
which re
Skin
Various
cocoa)
stick for
for skin
CM 825
German
vehicle
The resu
of the te
containi
skin hyd
four hou
butter-c
(Fig. 3).
the mor
hydratio
more th
produce
Cons
A doubl
study us
formula
butter a
was con
for vario
such at
spreada
greasine
containi
preferre
10% sh
“overall
the 10%
five to o
the 10%
Conc
Moringa
oil of M
the Him
The mo
used fo
benefits
moringa
skin. In
able to
product
formula
the sam
markete
included
manner
enhanc
enhanc
stability.
day mir
C o s m e t i c S c i e n c e, N a t u r a l l y.
Olivatis™ is a family of high-performing natural emulsifiers from Coast Southwest.
These novel ingredients are derived from olive oil. They impart a luxurious skin feel
and elegant texture while providing stability to the finished product.
PEG-free
To learn more, visit coastsouthwest.com/olivatis
1-800-621-0500 | coastsouthwest.com
12 IMWSCC
3rd Quarter 2015
References
Skin Hydration
Various butters (moringa, shea, olive, and
cocoa) were incorporated into anhydrous
stick formulations at 10% and tested for skin
hydration using a Corneometer CM 825
(Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, Germany)
in a double-blind, randomised, vehicle
controlled, in vivo clinical study. The results
show that after one application of the test
articles, the formulation containing 10%
moringa butter increased skin hydration at
every time point up to four hours, far better
than any of the other butter-containing test
articles, p<0.05 (Fig. 3). The anhydrous stick
containing the moringa butter produced a
peak skin hydration increase of 55%, which
was more than double the skin hydration
produced by any of the other test articles.
Consumer Perception
TA double-blind, randomised comparative
study using two anhydrous stick
formulations containing 10% moringa
butter and 10% shea butter, respectively,
was conducted by 31 female consumers
for various product aesthetics including
such attributes as absorbency, spreadability,
moisturisation, and nongreasiness. In all
cases the formulation containing 10%
moringa butter was preferred over the
formulation containing 10% shea butter
(Fig. 4). In terms of “overall” preference, the
formula containing the 10% moringa butter
was preferred five to one over the formula
containing the 10% shea butter.
Conclusion
Hydration change from baseline (%)
Morninga Butter Continued:
7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C,
Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera
1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National
(drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev
Institutes of Health) Record, LX NATURALS
(6), 3 March
(Supp); 2 (4): 7-13.
2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011).
8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, and
www.nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/
McCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interesting
03_21_2008/story4.htm
60ML. The moringa tree echo technical
source of active ingredients for skin and hair
2 Price
care, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52.
note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed
Vehicle stick + 10% moringa butter
9 Wanasundara UN, Shahidi F. Canola extract
13 50
April 2011). www.echonet.org/
as an alternative natural antioxidant for
repositories#110:d:TheMoringaTree
40
canola oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc 1994; 71 (8):
3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, Balasubramanian
SC. Nutritive value
of
Indian
foods.
Hyderabad,
Vehicle stick + 10% shea butter 817-22.
30
10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra
India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971.
and Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenac(Revised
20 and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS,
Vehicle stick + 10% Cocoa butter
induced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J Pharmacol
Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989).
Toxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8.
4 Rigano
10 L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seed
stick +
10%Journal
Olive butter
11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K,
oil – the new soulVehicle
of cosmetics.
SOFW
0 137 (3), 48-54.
Kishor K, Bhargava KP. Anti-inflammatory and
2011;
Vehicle
antipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. Planta
5 Names for Moringa.
Trees stick
for Life International.
–10(accessed 13 April 2011).
Med 1980; 39 (6), 157-63.
Web
0.5
1
2
3
4
12 Moringa. Grenera Nutrients. Web (accessed
[treesforlife.org/moringa/names]
Time (hours)
13 April 2011). www.moringaoil.com/
6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptian
applications.
herbal. Austin, TX: Second University of Texas
Figure 3: Average percentage change in skin hydration.
13 Floratech Final Reports 10-032 and 10-033.
Press printing, 1989, 122-3.
References
7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C,
Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa oleifera
1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National
Overall
preference
■ 10% moringa butter
(drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev
Institutes of Health) Record, LX (6), 3 March
■ 10% shea butter
(Supp); 2 (4): 7-13.
2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011).
80%
Smoothness
8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak
V, Pauly G, and
www.nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/
Payout
McCaulley J. Moringa oleifera: An interesting
03_21_2008/story4.htm
60%
source of active ingredients for skin and hair
2 Price ML. The moringa tree echo technical
40% care, SOFW Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52.
note (l985; last revision 2007). Web (accessed
9 Wanasundara UN, Shahidi F. Canola extract
13 April 2011). www.echonet.org/
20%
as an alternative natural antioxidant for
repositories#110:d:TheMoringaTree
canola oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc
1994; 71 (8):
3 Gopalan
C,
Rama
BV
Sastri,
Balasubramanian
Non-greasy
Absorbency
817-22.
SC. Nutritive value of Indian foods. Hyderabad,
10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra
India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971.
and Moringa oleifera – Ameliorate diclofenac(Revised and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS,
induced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J Pharmacol
Deosthale YG, Pant KC – 1989).
Toxicol 2007; 2 (2): 80-8.
4 Rigano L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seed
11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K,
oil – the new soul of cosmetics. SOFW Journal
Less
sticky
Kishor K, Bhargava
KP. Anti-inflammatory
and
2011; 137 Moisturisation
(3), 48-54.
antipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. Planta
5 Names for Moringa. Trees for Life International.
Med 1980; 39 (6), 157-63.
Web (accessed 13 April 2011).
Spreadability
12 Moringa. Grenera Nutrients. Web (accessed
[treesforlife.org/moringa/names]
13 April 2011). www.moringaoil.com/
6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptian
Figure
4: Average percentage consumer preference. applications.
herbal. Austin, TX: Second University of Texas
13 Floratech Final Reports 10-032 and 10-033.
Press printing, 1989, 122-3.
4 P E R S O N A L C A R E Reprinted from June 2011
■ 10% moringa butter
■ 10% shea butter
Payout
Moringa butter is derived from the seed oil of Moringa oleifera,
a tree
native to the Himalayan region of northern India. The moringa tree’s
various parts have been used for centuries for their natural healing
benefits. Clinical results show that the moringa butter is indeed
beneficial to the skin. In addition, a consumer panel was able to
Non-greasy
perceive differences in important product attributes when comparing
a formulation containing moringa butter with the same formulation
containing another marketed butter.13 Moringa butter can be included
within formulations in the same manner as other butters, with much
enhanced formulation capabilities, such as enhanced aesthetic and
Moisturisation
increased product stability. Moringa butter is truly a modern
day miracle
from pre-antiquity.
Overall preference
Bioengineering
Smoothness
the best active
cosmetic ingredients
since 1946
80%
60%
40%
20%
Absorbency
www.induchem.com
212.756.9918
[email protected]
Spreadability
Figure 4: Average percentage consumer preference.
Less sticky
3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 13
Morninga Butter Continued:
References
1 NIH Celebrates Earth Day 2008. NIH (National Institutes of Health)
Record, LX (6), 3 March 2008. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www.
nihrecord.od.nih.gov/newsletters/2008/03_21_2008/story4.htm
2 Price ML. The moringa tree echo technical note (l985; last revision 2007).
Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www.echonet.org/repositories#110:d:TheM
oringaTree
3 Gopalan C, Rama BV Sastri, Balasubramanian SC. Nutritive value of
Indian foods. Hyderabad, India: (National Institute of Nutrition), 1971.
(Revised and updated by Narasinga-Rao BS, Deosthale YG, Pant KC –
1989).
4 Rigano L, Andolfatto C, Radice A. Moringa seed oil – the new soul of
cosmetics. SOFW Journal 2011; 137 (3), 48-54.
5 Names for Moringa. Trees for Life International. Web (accessed 13 April
2011). [treesforlife.org/moringa/names]
6 Manniche L. “Moringa” – An ancient Egyptian herbal. Austin, TX: Second
University of Texas Press printing, 1989, 122-3.
7 Sabale V, Patel V, Paranjape A, Arya C, Sakarkar SN, Sabale PM. Moringa
oleifera (drumstick): An overview. Pharmacognosy Rev (Supp); 2 (4): 7-13.
8 Armand-Stussi I, Basocak V, Pauly G, and McCaulley J. Moringa oleifera:
An interesting source of active ingredients for skin and hair care, SOFW
Journal 2011; 129 (9), 45-52.
9 Wanasundara UN, Shahidi F. Canola extract as an alternative natural
antioxidant for canola oil. J Am Oil Chem Soc 1994; 71 (8):817-22.
10 Hamza AA. Curcuma longa, Glycyrrhiza glabra and Moringa oleifera –
Ameliorate diclofenacinduced hepatoxicity in rats. Am J Pharmacol Toxicol
2007; 2 (2): 80-8.
11 Gopta MB, Nath R, Srivastava N, Shanker K, Kishor K, Bhargava KP.
Anti-inflammatory and antipyretic activities of beta-sitosterol. Planta Med
1980; 39 (6), 157-63.
12 Moringa. Grenera Nutrients. Web (accessed 13 April 2011). www.
moringaoil.com/applications.
13 Floratech Final Reports 10-032 and 10-033.
High demand personal
care ingredients to
inspire you.
• Argan Oil
• Tea Tree Oil
• Red Palm Oil • Natural Silicone
• Sweet Almond Alternative
• Natural Lanolin
Oil
Alternative
• Jojoba Oil
Find more info at
www.charkit.com
Lipo
to become
14 IMWSCC
3rd Quarter 2015
www.mariposalabs.com
10 Question Company Spotlight: Mariposa Labs
By: Lisa Swain
1. Company Name?
Mariposa Labs LLC
2. Year Established?
2001
3. Location(s)?
Boise ID
4. Number of Employees and Number of R&D
Employees?
33 full time employees, 4 R & D Staff
5. Number of Employees that Belong to the SCC?
Our Head Chemist & Technical Director is a Member of the
Society of Cosmetic Chemists, but many of us are big fans of
the organization!
6. Company Certifications/Capabilities?
Mariposa Labs maintains Standard Operating Procedures
designed to comply with all relevant sections of Part
210 of the Code of Federal Regulations. We implement
significant training and follow up to insure compliance. We
are routinely inspected by the FDA, various State and Local
government agencies, 3rd party auditors and several large
customers for compliance. Mariposa Labs is registered with
and inspected by the FDA. We also maintain registrations
and permits with the ATF for alcohol use and several state
and local entities. Recently, we successfully completed
Halal Certification and Gluten Free Certification for several
product lines we manufacture.
We can package and label a wide array of jars and bottles,
from 0.33 oz to Gallons, as well as fill & crimp tubes, in both
plastic and aluminum, as small as 0.33 oz up to 9 oz fill.
7. Types of Products Produced?
A very general and brief product capabilities summary: Body
Care, Facial Care, Hair Care, Spa Treatment, Massage,
Men’s Specialty Products, Baby/Children’s Products, & Pet
Products, Perfume & Cologne, Home Care and Fragrance.
8. Name & Position of Person filling out the
spotlight?
Lisa Swain, Director Of Business Development
9. What is your favorite product your company
produces and why?
Without question, my favorite product we manufacture is
Toe Juice. Wacky, but memorable name and a very effective
product for the whole family. Toe Juice cures a wide array
of skin issues: Bug bites, rashes, breakouts, athlete’s foot, and
ingrown hair, to name a few. I keep several bottles at home
and always take one when we travel.
The brand owners first told us that it can fix most everything,
much like Windex in the movie My Big Fat Greek Wedding.
And they were right! Any skin related injury, bug bite or
ailment and the first thing we say is “you should put Toe Juice
on it! “ https://www.toejuice.com/
10. What makes your company unique, why
should clients work with you above anyone else?
Our primary goal is to operate a safe and ethical factory
while producing great products for our customers. We
aim to never lose a customer we want to keep and to never
chase big customers or product lines that would strain our
capacity to perform. Our unique capabilities lie within our
employees and our overall company culture. We make sound
hiring decisions and have a very high employee retention
rate. Our employees are committed to us and our customers’
satisfaction. We retain customers and develop partnerships
by focusing on overhead, staff efficiency, teamwork, a
tight product, customer focus, and outstanding customer
service. Our most unique strategy is that every aspect of
our planning involves flexibility for our customers: we focus
on hiring flexible employees, purchasing flexible equipment,
and maintaining flexible schedules. At the end of the day,
we really do keep our customers happy. We have the ability
to do both large and small production runs. A combination
of large and small production runs actually complements
us very well, it allows us to fully utilize our equipment and
fulltime personnel.
GRAND
SEMINAR
November 5, 2015
Salt Lake City,
Utah
3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 15
TnT
IMWSCC 3rd Quarter Meeting
September 9-10, 2015
Zermatt Resort
Midway, Utah
Schedule
Wednesday
8:00am – Breakfast, registration, & check-in
9:00am – Announcements & quarter sponsor remarks
9:15am – David Steinberg, Regulatory Affairs
10:15am – Break
10:30am – Nick Morante, Colorant Basics for Cosmetics
11:45pm – Lunch
Thursday
7:30am – Breakfast, registration, & check-in
8:30am – Shotgun start
12:00pm – Lunch & prizes
Thanks for your attendance!
16 IMWSCC
3rd Quarter 2015
Presenters for TnT
Nick Morante
David Steinberg
Nick Morante is currently a Senior
Chemist at IFC Solutions (formerly
International Foodcraft) in New Jersey where he works with many types
of colors and additives for both the
food and cosmetics industries utilizing
them in many different applications.
He has over 40 years of experience in
the formulation of cosmetics, personal
care products and makeup products.
Prior to joining IFC, Nick was a consultant to the cosmetics industry for over 10 years providing
custom formulations for clients as well as giving presentations
and seminars to various companies and organizations within
the cosmetics industry providing guidance in the practical use
of color in consumer products. He is current an adjunct faculty
member at Fairleigh Dickinson University’s School of Natural
Sciences in Hackensack, NJ where he is an instructor in the
Master of Science Program in Cosmetic Science.
In 1995 David Steinberg founded
Steinberg & Associates, a consulting firm for the Cosmetic industry,
specializing in the Chemistry of
Cosmetic Ingredients, Preservatives
and preservation, International and
US regulations, domestic and international labeling of cosmetics and
cosmetic drugs; and marketing of
ingredients. He is an expert witness
in patent, business issues and injury
cases dealing in the personal care area.
Senior Chemist
IFC Solutions
Nick also spent over 30 years Research and Development at
The Estée Lauder Companies where he was both a formulator
and laboratory manager in the corporate makeup and hair
care departments. He was also in charge of the Color Science
Laboratory where he was responsible for color measurement
and spectrophotometric analysis of finished products, ingredients and human skin as it relates to color that is used in various cosmetic products, as well as developing testing protocols
and methodologies for many color applications.
Nick holds a Bachelor of Science degree from The New York
Institute of Technology. He has taken numerous continuing
education courses in the area of cosmetic science. He is a long
time member of The Society of Cosmetic Chemists and has
been active both on the local and national levels having served
on the executive committee for the Long Island Chapter and
on the National Board, serving as Area Director and National
Secretary. He has been elected a Fellow of the Society and is
an instructor for the Society’s Continuing Education Program
(CEP) Program in the area of color and makeup formulation
and troubleshooting.
He has given many seminars and presentations worldwide.
He has been awarded numerous patents and has contributed
many articles and papers and authored chapters to numerous
cosmetic, technical and beauty publications and texts.
Founder
Steinberg & Associates
In 2006, Mr. Steinberg founded the Cosmetic Preservative
Council and is the Executive Director. In 2008 , he founded Report Reaction, LLC to assist clients in complying with
new FDA OTC labeling requirements.
David is the founder of the Master’s Degree Program
in Cosmetic Sciences at Fairleigh Dickinson University.
He also earned a Bachelor of Science in Chemistry from
Drexel University and an MBA Management degree from
Pace University.
Mr. Steinberg’s robust
history with the Society
of Cosmetic Chemists includes appointments as
the New York Chapter
Chair in 1979, Treasurer
of the National organization in 1987 & 1988, and
SCC National President
in 1991. He also received
the SCC Merit Award in
1985, and was elected an
SCC Fellow in 1987.
David is a member of
the American Chemical
Society, Regulatory Affairs Professional Society, Society of Cosmetic
Chemists, and Praesidium: International Federation of Societies of
Cosmetic Chemists.
Nature’s Science.
Our Technology.
Your Beauty.
™
by
www.ajiaminobeauty.com
3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 17
HORN Care Elements caters to the personal care, hair
care, skin care, cosmetics, home care, industrial and
institutional (HI&I) cleaning, fragrances and air care
industries. Represented by seasoned experts, HORN Care
Elements services its principals and customers by providing
unmatched formulation expertise, problem-solving
capabilities and superior customer service.
HORN orchestrates success. Challenge us and let us know
how we can help.
HORN pROudly REpREsENts:
Abitec Corp.
Air products
Bayer Materialscience
Cabot Corp.
Cargill
Fragrance West
Grain processing Corp.
Impact Colors, Inc.
J.M. Huber Corp.
Momentive performance products
Multiceras
Natural sourcing, llC
[email protected] • 800.442.4676 • www.ethorn.com
IMWSCC Horn CE 7x5 Ad.indd 1
2/27/15 11:51 AM
Client:
Description:
Production:
Insertion:
18 IMWSCC
3rd Quarter 2015
Horn
IMWSCC Ad
February 2015
February 2015
Ad Size:
Bleed:
Color:
Output:
7” x 5”
n/a
4/C
100%
19000 MacArthur Boulevard, Floor 8, Irvine, CA 92612
Creative Direction: Paul Kokinakes 949.809.6760
[email protected]
Production: Hannah Bergan 949.809.6710
[email protected]
I
I
Kelsey Larsen: [email protected]
Summary of May Meeting
By: Kelsey Larsen
We don’t choose theme songs for our SCC meetings but, if we did, I would choose “Here Comes the Sun” by
the Beatles for our May meeting.
The morning started out a bit cloudy and rainy at the Thanksgiving Point Gardens. We listened to two speakers.
Joy from Integrity spoke about a plant-based SPF boosters. Interestingly enough, some plants have chemical
components similar in structure to OMC and avobenzone. (I may have to find these plants and buy them.
Way cool). Brooke from Kemin spoke about oregano, how it grows and its potential preservation properties in
cosmetics. I guess Oregano isn’t just for spaghetti sauce. Nature really is smart and efficient.
After the speakers and a yummy Mexican lunch, the sun came out and we were able to tour the gardens.
Having the meeting at the gardens seemed to be in line with our talks about plant cosmetic actives. Thanks
Integrity for sponsoring our meeting.
3rd Quarter 2015
IMWSCC 19
IMWSCC would like to thank
our Third Quarter
Meeting Sponsors:
AAK
LIPSCOMB
20 IMWSCC
3rd Quarter 2015