Husk restaurant is `a way of life`
Transcription
Husk restaurant is `a way of life`
LOCAL NEWS WEDNESDAY, MAY 22, 2013 THE TENNESSEAN COME GET YOUR HANDS DIRTY Join The Tennessean and Hands On Nashville for the next monthly volunteer project: working in the BELL Garden. Go to Tennessean.com/volunteer to learn more about the June 15 event and to sign up. UNIONS CHEER DEAN Fire and police union leaders applauded Metro pay increases. On 3B Same-sex unions see gains Poll shows about half of state accepts couples’ recognition By Chas Sisk The Tennessean About half of Tennesseans support legal recognition of same-sex couples, an apparent shift in their views as states throughout the country have moved toward allowing gay marriage. A poll conducted this month for Vanderbilt University found that 49 percent of Tennesseans support gay marriage or civil unions while 46 percent are opposed to both, suggesting the state is now evenly divided on whether to extend legal recognition to same-sex couples. Meanwhile, 62 percent of Tennesseans said health insurance and other employee benefits should be extended to the domestic partners or spouses of gays and lesbians. Thirty-one percent oppose the idea. The poll emerges after Minneso- ta, Rhode Island and Delaware this month became the latest states to adopt gay marriage, bringing the number nationwide to 12. The results also come as the U.S. Supreme Court weighs whether to strike down state bans on gay marriage. “This is kind of consistent with the national trend,” said Josh Clinton, associate professor of political science at Vanderbilt. The poll results suggest a marked shift in Tennesseans’ views » POLL, 3B VANDERBILT HIRED PRINCETON SURVEY GAY RIGHTS IN TENNESSEE Among registered voters Research Associates International sampled the views of 1,000 Tennesseans, including 813 registered voters, using landlines and cellphones May 6-13. The poll carries a margin of error of 4 percentage points. Don’t know, or refused Support civil unions 17% 5% Oppose legal recognition Support gay marriage 46% 32% Source: Center for the Study of Democratic Institutions, Vanderbilt University MICHAEL CAMPBELL / THE TENNESSEAN Tea party protesters fight IRS ‘tyranny’ UNIQUE SETTING By Emily West The Tennessean Radio personalities and local politicians braved a midday downpour Tuesday to vent their frustrations through a bullhorn in front of the federal building as a part of a nationwide protest against the Internal Revenue Service’s targeting of political groups. More than 150 supporters gathered with signs lambasting the government, and people lined the Broadway sidewalk holding their yellow “Don’t tread on me” and American flags. The IRS has given extra scrutiny to the tax-free status of groups with conservative phrases in their names, including Tennessee groups in Hamilton, Roane and Williamson counties. The IRS commissioner was forced by the Obama administration to resign last week. “I am livid, and we have been livid for years,” said Mishelle Perkins of 9.12 Project Tennessee. “We must save this republic for our children. This IRS is tyranny. We cannot forget this.” Among the crowd was Republican Rep. Joe Carr of Lascassas. He said the Obama administration used the IRS for its own gain. “Parts of the tea party groups were unnecessarily and maliciously maligned,” Carr said. “It appears that Obama used the IRS as a club to manipulate what now appears to be the 2012 election. The IRS in no manner should be used in political purposes.” Questions about who knew what when in the Obama administration must be answered, said Ben Cunningham, Nashville Tea Party president. Dan Latimer, general manager of Husk Nashville, straightens a table at the restaurant, which is set to open Thursday. Food lovers have been eagerly awaiting Husk’s opening. DIPTI VAIDYA / THE TENNESSEAN Husk restaurant is ‘a way of life’ Eatery’s opening could help enhance city’s culinary landscape By Jennifer Justus The Tennessean Watching the team of about 50 workers move around the 19th-century home in Rutledge Hill that would soon open as Husk restaurant felt like being inside a time-lapse video. The raised garden beds were being watered to the beep of a nearby Bobcat as servers gathered in the carriage house out back tasting 20 white wines and listening to a seminar by the local potter who created the dinnerware. Meanwhile, the music inside Husk squealed with table saws and drills and thudded with boots up and down the dining room stairs. Above it all, Sinatra-style tunes floated through the dining room. But when the doors to this highly anticipated restaurant open Thursday, the backhoes will be gone and the jazz that » HUSK, 6B IF YOU GO What: Husk Nashville Where: 37 Rutledge St., Nashville Hours: Dinner service begins Thursday. Hours are 5:30-10 p.m. SundayThursday and 5:30-11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Lunch and brunch begin June 3. Lunch, 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, and brunch 10 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. Private dining begins July 15. Cost: Dinner, $20-$29; lunch, $9-$15. Contact: 615-256-6565 or www.husknashville.com GET A LOOK For more restaurant news and to see a photo gallery from Husk Nashville, visit Tennessean.com/Taste. NEIGHBORHOOD GROWTH On the drawing board: More than 200 new apartments are being planned for the Rutledge Hill neighborhood. Ted Kornblum of Murfreesboro holds a flag Tuesday at the tea party protest at the federal building on Broadway. JOHN PARTIPILO / THE TENNESSEAN Bobo family slams TBI over official’s tweet They accuse agency of ignoring their pain By Brian Haas The Tennessean Holly Bobo’s parents, Karen and Dana Bobo, far right, gather as grandmother Donna Goff holds a sign. The family was upset over a tweet sent by the TBI spokeswoman. JOHN PARTIPILO / THE TENNESSEAN The family of missing Tennessean Holly Bobo on Tuesday accused the Tennessee Bureau of Investigation of ignoring their pain after what they call a “very inappropriate, very unprofessional” tweet by the agency’s spokeswoman. The tweet, by TBI spokeswoman Kristin Helm, referred to a story on Saturday detailing the TBI’s criti- REPORT NEWS 259-8068 OR FAX 259-8093 OR E-MAIL [email protected] What if you knew your child was going to college? cism of a Brentwood nonprofit’s involvement in the investigation and WSMV-Channel 4 reports on the group’s findings. Helm posted a picture on Twitter showing The Tennessean’s story about the controversy with the caption, “Great way to start off my day and the coffee is brewing.” Bobo’s mother said Tuesday that the tweet appeared to be “sounding victorious,” while her daughter remains missing. “I do feel like the big picture has been lost and that picture is finding my daughter,” said Karen Bobo, standing on the steps of the state Cap- itol. “If this is an example of how TBI feels about my daughter’s case, then I do think there is a conflict of interest.” Helm later apologized and said the tweet was from her personal account. The tweet has since been deleted. “The tweet from my personal account was referring to the content of the article, not directed at the case,” she said in an email. “If it was construed as hurtful which was not its intention, I apologize. It does not reflect any opinion of TBI or my work, only my own personal thoughts after » TBI, 3B EVENT LISTINGS NOWPLAYINGNASHVILLE.COM KIPP Academy Nashville 5th - 8th grade • (founded in 2005) A network of KIPP Schools in Nashville supporting students to and though college School Features: • • • • • • • Full School Year: July - May Extended time in school: 7:30am - 4pm (Wednesday 7:30am - 2pm) Growing to serve grades 5th - 12th (High school opening in 2014) Parental Involvement Cell phone access to all teachers & staff 100% of teachers believe ALL children WILL learn College Prep and KIPP Nashville College Prep 5gth grade • (opening their doors Summer 2013) are the best public middle school options if you want your child to go to college! APPLY TODAY! Space is limited. Visit the school to get your student enrolled! 3410 Knight Drive Nashville, TN 37207 615-226-4484 TN-0000895840 6B ■ x WEDNESDAY, MAY 22, 2013 LOCAL NEWS / FROM PAGE ONE THE TENNESSEAN Midstate may get 2nd day of storms NANCY VAN CAMP DAN THOMAS Today LISA SPENCER 80 High 5 p.m. 10 p.m. Scattered t-storms Rain & t-storms 73 76 THU Scattered t-storms 80 FRI SAT 69 SUN MON Wind: WNW 5-15 mph Wind: N 5-15 mph Wind: NE Wind: S 4-8 mph Wind: SW 5-15 mph 60/77 52/72 55/78 58/82 60/83 4-8 mph National forecast 0s Wed., May 22, 2013 10s 20s 30s 40s 50s 60s 70s 80s 90s 100s 110s Showers T-storms Rain Flurries Shown are noon positions of weather systems and Snow precipitation. Temperature Ice bands are highs for the day. Travel forecast National Today Thurs. City Albany 85/67/t Albuquerque 86/57/s Anchorage 57/43/pc Atlanta 84/66/t Atlantic City 80/66/t Austin 92/68/pc Baltimore 87/68/t Billings 68/48/pc Birmingham 86/64/t Bismarck 66/42/pc Boise 61/40/pc Boston 78/63/t Chrlstn, S.C. 84/67/pc Charlotte 84/65/t Chattanooga 86/63/t Cheyenne 70/42/pc Chicago 74/50/t Cincinnati 82/60/t Cleveland 82/61/t Columbus 84/62/t Dallas 88/68/s Denver 75/45/pc Detroit 79/59/t Fort Myers 87/71/t Hartford 86/66/t Honolulu 86/70/pc Houston 89/72/t Indianapolis 78/58/t Jackson 86/65/t Jacksonville 86/66/t Kansas City 70/49/pc Knoxville 87/63/t Las Vegas 92/69/s Little Rock 86/63/t Los Angeles 74/58/pc Louisville 82/62/t Madison 68/50/t Memphis 86/64/t Miami 86/75/t Milwaukee 66/48/t Minneapolis 56/45/c New Orleans 84/71/t New York 85/68/t Oakland 69/50/s Oklahoma City 86/61/s Omaha 64/49/c Orlando 89/70/t Panama City 84/67/pc Philadelphia 88/69/t Phoenix 101/77/s Pittsburgh 86/63/t Portland, Me. 69/59/c Portland, Ore. 51/44/r Providence 78/63/t Raleigh 85/67/t Richmond 88/68/pc Sacramento 74/44/s St. Louis 78/57/pc 79/57/t 90/56/pc 60/46/s 86/59/pc 75/61/t 91/67/pc 82/60/t 77/51/pc 86/58/pc 69/46/pc 66/40/pc 72/60/t 86/67/t 85/59/t 84/56/pc 70/48/pc 58/45/sh 71/45/t 68/43/t 73/45/t 90/71/pc 68/51/pc 61/40/sh 90/71/t 77/58/t 87/72/pc 89/69/pc 67/42/c 88/60/pc 89/66/t 71/50/pc 80/55/pc 85/66/s 84/58/pc 71/58/pc 73/47/t 63/37/pc 81/56/pc 88/76/t 57/44/sh 67/45/pc 87/69/pc 79/61/t 66/49/pc 81/60/t 71/49/pc 91/69/pc 83/68/t 81/60/t 100/72/s 75/46/t 74/57/t 61/48/sh 74/61/t 85/62/t 84/59/t 75/47/pc 70/48/pc Fri. 68/43/r 89/57/s 63/48/s 77/53/s 75/50/c 90/67/pc 70/49/c 80/49/s 78/52/s 69/52/pc 69/48/pc 66/49/r 87/57/pc 77/48/pc 75/49/s 80/49/pc 63/37/s 66/43/s 57/37/pc 63/39/pc 85/69/c 86/51/pc 61/40/s 91/71/t 72/48/r 88/73/pc 89/68/pc 66/45/s 81/53/pc 88/63/pc 72/55/pc 70/44/s 91/69/s 76/56/pc 71/56/pc 70/48/s 66/44/s 73/54/pc 89/75/pc 59/44/s 70/53/s 87/66/c 69/54/c 66/53/s 79/64/c 71/55/pc 90/70/t 84/63/pc 71/53/c 100/72/s 60/40/pc 68/45/r 65/44/sh 72/48/r 77/50/pc 77/48/c 78/50/s 70/49/s Nashville today Heat index 8 a.m. 79° noon 84° 5 p.m. Stationary Today Thurs. City Salt Lake City San Antonio San Diego San Francisco San Jose Seattle Tampa Tulsa Wash., D.C. W. Palm Bch Fri. Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W 83/54/s 91/72/pc 68/60/pc 66/50/s 70/49/s 52/44/r 88/72/t 82/59/pc 87/70/t 84/73/t 79/46/pc 91/70/pc 68/58/pc 64/50/pc 68/48/pc 62/46/sh 87/72/t 80/56/t 81/60/t 86/72/t 74/54/s 90/70/pc 68/57/pc 65/52/pc 69/50/s 64/45/sh 89/73/t 78/61/pc 74/50/c 86/73/pc International City Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W Today Thurs. Hi/Lo/W Fri. Amsterdam Athens Auckland Bangkok Beijing Berlin Bermuda Bogota Brussels Buenos Aires Cairo Calgary Copenhagen Dhahran Dublin Geneva Hong Kong Jerusalem Johannesburg Kabul London Madrid Mexico City Montreal Moscow Nassau New Delhi Paris Rio de Janeiro Rome St. Petersburg St. Thomas San Juan Seoul Singapore Stockholm Sydney Tokyo Toronto Vancouver Vienna Warsaw Zurich 58/42/pc 86/69/pc 64/55/pc 95/80/t 86/64/pc 55/39/r 76/67/s 63/47/t 57/39/c 63/45/pc 95/73/s 58/43/sh 59/45/r 106/80/s 55/39/c 58/37/sh 88/79/t 83/63/s 68/43/s 90/59/s 65/41/c 72/49/pc 85/58/pc 75/63/r 62/49/r 86/77/t 115/85/pc 63/40/c 78/69/sh 76/56/r 66/48/r 85/78/sh 82/76/t 81/59/pc 90/79/t 65/53/r 64/52/r 81/68/pc 72/57/t 56/47/c 68/47/sh 69/50/sh 54/37/sh 54/44/r 86/63/t 63/51/sh 96/81/pc 88/70/s 60/38/c 76/68/s 68/49/t 50/35/r 64/50/pc 99/74/s 55/44/r 60/49/pc 101/81/s 51/40/sh 58/40/r 88/79/t 87/68/s 68/43/s 92/60/s 54/42/sh 74/52/s 84/57/pc 72/46/r 61/52/r 87/76/t 116/87/pc 55/41/r 75/67/sh 73/54/t 61/47/r 87/78/pc 85/77/t 84/61/pc 88/79/t 58/50/r 64/55/r 77/63/s 66/41/t 60/47/sh 60/46/pc 65/49/c 56/34/r 51/43/r 82/65/s 61/48/s 97/80/t 82/63/pc 62/42/sh 76/68/pc 67/49/r 52/40/r 63/41/pc 104/72/s 54/42/r 61/51/r 104/82/s 53/39/c 52/39/c 88/81/t 92/68/s 67/43/s 90/59/pc 55/44/c 75/50/s 83/57/pc 59/43/sh 71/55/sh 88/74/pc 115/88/pc 55/42/c 74/66/sh 69/56/s 66/53/r 87/78/pc 87/77/pc 84/61/pc 90/79/t 56/53/c 66/50/r 79/59/s 59/40/pc 62/50/sh 58/42/r 60/46/pc 53/32/sh Barometer at 7 a.m. .. 29.85 in. Air Quality Index Source: Nashville.gov An indication of how it feels based on humidity and actual temperature. Graph indicates highest reading for the day. 71° Cold Warm s-sunny sf-snow flurries sh-showers pc- partly cloudy r- rain sn- snow c-cloudy t-thunderstorms i-ice Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W Hi/Lo/W Yesterday’s aqi: Particulates Today’s aqi forecast Highest 5 p.m. Allergy Index Main allergen: Grass, Tree Source: Nashville.gov Temperature (°F) Yesterday’s high/low ........ 86/66 Normal range, today ........ 80/59 Record high, today .. 95 in 1941 Record low, today .... 41 in 2002 High one year ago ................. 78 Low one year ago ................. 58 Moonrise/set Precipitation 24 hours ending 5 p.m. ..... 0.17” Month to date .................... 2.62” Normal month to date ....... 3.88” Deficit for month ............... 1.26” Year to date ..................... 24.29” Normal year to date ........ 19.68” Surplus for year ................. 4.61” Sunrise/set Sunrise today ......... 5:36 a.m. Full Last New First Sunset today .......... 7:52 p.m. May 24 May 31 Jun 8 Jun 16 Sunrise tomorrow .. 5:35 a.m. Moonrise today ...... 5:18 p.m. Moonset today ....... 3:35 a.m. Tennessee lake levels As of 7 a.m. yesterday Old Hickory Percy Priest Center Hill Lake Barkley 359.10 ft SSW 8-16 mph Cordell Hull 503.60 ft SSW 7-14 mph Ky. Lake 358.97 ft SW 8-16 mph Lake Level Winds 445.50 ft SSW 8-16 mph 491.20 ft SSW 7-14 mph 640.66 ft SSW 8-16 mph Lake Level Winds Forecasts and graphics provided by AccuWeather, Inc. ©2013 Local forecast provided by WSMV-TV Channel 4 TENNESSEAN Restaurant uses Southern ingredients » HUSK FROM 1B Partly sunny, Mostly sunny Partly sunny, Partly cloudy Partly cloudy t-showers and pleasant t-storm -10s -0s A police officer directs traffic after a storm Tuesday knocked out power in parts of Murfreesboro. Residents may face more storms today with even the possibility of tornadoes, a forecaster said. “We expect storms to continue with the potential for some to be severe,” National Weather Service meteorologist Sam Herron said. “We expect storms to taper off by (Wednesday) evening.” JAE S. LEE / THE Wind: SW 5-15 mph 10 a.m. Noon Scattered t-storms PAUL HEGGEN warmed up the speakers will give way to a groove more at the heart of this place — Lucero, Drive-By Truckers, George Jones. Husk, as chef Sean Brock will say, isn’t just a Southern restaurant, “it’s a way of life and a culture — it’s a collection of theories and ideas.” Brock, who opened Husk in Charleston, S.C., with Neighborhood Dining Group in 2010, has a set of rules firmly in place. Ingredients can only come from the South (he buys Georgia olive oil and uses rare, heirloom fruits and vegetables, for example). The menu changes twice a day, every day. Partly because of this commitment, Bon Appetit named Husk the best new restaurant in America the year after it opened. Brock, 35, has been the subject of an 11-page profile in The New Yorker, and he recently made the shortlist for Outstanding Chef nationwide at the James Beard Awards. So, obviously, Husk in Nashville has caused quite a to-do. It has been called one of the 40 most anticipated openings in the country by Eater.com, and even Vanity Fair posted about Brock’s Nashville hot chicken research. Food lovers all over the South might have shared their last sip of Pappy Van Winkle for the promise of Husk taking root in their city. But Brock said he never considered putting his second location anywhere but Nashville. “When we decided we were going to expand the idea of Husk into a different city,” he said, “this was the first place, the only place, we talked about, really.” And it’s a decision that could help elevate Nashville to even more of a dining destination. “It speaks to how much we’ve grown,” said The Hermitage Hotel’s Tyler Brown, who worked with Brock previously. “I think we have a lot to be proud of in that respect. The future is bright, and it can only make us stronger.” Husk employs a team of almost all locals (with the exception of Chef de Cuisine Morgan McGlone of Husk in Charleston and a couple others). David Howard, president of Neighborhood Dining Group, the restaurant’s managing company, said that the restaurant industry collectively trains the people of a city. As restaurants improve, so does the talent. The culinary industry and the farming industry also grow simultaneously, noted general manager Dan Latimer. Already, the culinary landscape has changed dramatically since Brock led the reopening of Capitol Grille in The Hermitage Hotel after its renovation in 2003. “It’s a totally different city,” Brock said. “It’s not even close to what it was 10 years ago.” “People are just excited about where they’re from and excited about their roots and their heritage, and you see that happening all over the place and definitely here,” Brock said. “There are all these young business people who are doing really cool artisanal things … And even cool stuff like Barista Parlor. Ten years ago, there’s no way that would have been here. Now, you see young people taking chances and starting businesses based on their own specific passions and it’s been really cool to see. It’s very inspiring. You see people chasing their dreams.” But in bringing Husk to Nashville, the team almost gave up when they couldn’t find the right location. As Latimer noted, Husk couldn’t just be stuffed into the bottom of a shiny, new high-rise. “We looked for a long time, secretively, and couldn’t find a place with that feel that you could only get from a 19th-century home,” Brock said. “The floors have to creak a little, and it has to be a bit quirky. And it has to have a certain feel, because that’s what the food is about. That’s what the service is about. That’s what makes it so unique.” ‘Common ground’ Latimer, who also opened Husk in Charleston, has a spot at Husk Nashville where he can feel the overall restaurant vibe. It’s at the top of the stairs looking to the open kitchen on his right, to the dining room below and over the gardens out back. It’s where he can see, he said, but also feel that elusive restaurant energy — a balance of anticipation, attention, relaxation. With about 80 seats and 12 in the bar (it’s 25 percent smaller than Husk in Charleston), the restaurant is divided into pockets that provide a variety of experiences: quiet front rooms, a walk by the kitchen and down to an open dining room and separate cozy bar. Modern touches blend with easy earth tones and accent walls painted like the insides of a purple sweet potato that Brock might unearth for future service. “We’re drawing on history and looking to the future and finding the common ground in that,” Latimer said. As for the house’s past, which previously held Andrew Chadwick’s restaurant, Latimer can tick off the history like a downtown tour guide. Built between 1878 and 1882, the Italianate-style home was once occupied by former Mayor Richard Houston Dudley. He held his inaugural party at the home, so it already has hospitality in its bones. The area also was developed by transplants who moved to Nashville from Charleston in the 1800s and chose this spot on the hill to keep watch on riverboat business below. “The preservation mentality is very much a driving factor in our cuisine,” Latimer added. “Husk is a celebration of Southern ingredients.” The day we visited, chefs had been out to Bells Bend Neighborhood Farms, and Brock said he’s excited to work with The Barefoot Farmer at Long Hungry Creek Farm and Bear Creek Farms, for example, in addition to purveyors they’ve been using in Charleston — Benton’s hams and Cruze buttermilk — as part of their strict guidelines. “But that’s why we did it that way, so we had to support the right people and not give ourselves the option to go to a produce company and cook that food,” Brock said. “We want to cook food that’s fresh and vibrant.” Brock, who you might find sporting a “Virginia Is for Lovers” hat (representing his home state), with a colorful vegetable patch of tattoos down his left arm, has committed to staying in Nashville until the restaurant has found its footing. He even seemed antsy to get in the kitchen. Meanwhile, Howard who worked on a laptop in a makeshift office, paused to advise a construction crew on matters of asphalt and to act as a tour guide to the restrooms where newfangled Dyson fixtures had just been installed. If Brock seemed ready to cook, Latimer and Howard seemed eager to throw open the doors and welcome guests. “Time’s up,” Howard said. And Nashville is sitting on ready. Reach Jennifer Justus at 259-8072. Walk-in Bathtubs Safety and comfort in your own home SAVE 750 $ on WALK-IN BATHTUBS SAVE 500 $ on SAFETY SHOWERS Installing an accessible bathtub allows homeowners with disabilities or limited mobility to regain their independence and dignity. Fear of falling is the #1 reason that people move to anassisted living facility. 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