Buying your first Target Bow

Buying
your first
Target Bow
Archery is an equipment sport. A good set of golf
clubs or equipment for a variety of other sports is
expensive. A good quality bow is no different. At some
point you will want to buy your own bow.
Equipment for archery comes in a bewildering array of
styles and prices. Don't be put off by the prices of
equipment. (If you are, see page 7) Get the best that
you can afford. There are some very good low cost
bows that can be bought.
The trick for target archery is to join a club, find a
good coach and learn good form (or good technique).
Once an archer can use a target recurve bow (with
sights) it is easy to change to various styles of archery
including compound, longbow, barebow, instinctive
etc.
I would recommend that a person shoot, for the first
12 months or so, using a recurve bow.
TIP Don't rush to buy a bow, finish the
beginners course and use club equipment for
a while or you are at risk of wasting your
money buying the wrong bow for you. Join a
club and talk to the club coach who can guide
you.
are two main types of archery, target or
hunting. These styles are not the same. There
are several differences between them. Target
bows use lighter arrows, lighter arrow rests,
and lighter "draw weights" etc. Target bows
tend to go faster, travel further and are more
accurate than hunting bows. It is not always
possible to convert a hunting bow to shoot
well at targets. Many clubs shoot target.
Tip Most people are right handed, many
people are left handed. Coaches see people
who are either left handed or right handed
but their eyesight is different. Don't be
surprised if the coach recommends you buy a
left hand bow when you thought you would
buy a right hand one.
Tip Decide if you are shooting a "recurve
bow", "compound bow" or a "long bow". If
you are not sure what these terms mean then
do one of the club's beginner's courses to find
out.
Bow Length, Draw Weight and
Draw Length
There are three pieces of information that are needed
from the new archer before they can buy a bow. The
first is the “bow length”, the second is the “draw
weight” and the third is the archers “draw length”. A
club coach can make recommendations for these
three values before you buy.
TIP Bows come in a variety of lengths. Get a
target recurve bow long enough for you. Tall
adult males often need a bow of 70 inches in
length, while a shorter adult person may need
a bow of 66 inches in length. A small child
may need an even shorter bow of 58 to 64
inches in length.
TIP Usually draw weights of 20 pounds to 30
pounds are suitable for new archers. (A small
child may need an even lighter draw weight
of 10 pounds to 20 pounds.) The biggest
problem coaches see is people who buy bows
that have a too strong draw weight. A too
strong draw weight bow will stop you from
being able to learn good form. A new archer
has yet to develop their archery muscles. In
years of teaching archery, I have not met a
person who has developed strong archery
muscles prior to using a bow. Some people
think they are very strong but their muscles
used for archery are often underdeveloped.
TIP A good coach can help you determine
your “draw length” and then translate this
into how long your arrows should be. Do not
forget to add about 50mm to your “draw
length” to get your first arrows long enough
to allow for future changes to your shooting
technique. These arrows can be cut at a later
time when you begin to use a “clicker”.
Tip Decide what you are shooting at. There
Buying your first target bow
Page 1
High draw weight bows
High powered bows with a high draw weight don't
mean more accurate shooting. You could damage
your shoulders, beyond medical repair, if you purchase
a bow beyond your physical capabilities.
Good form (or good technique)
Many archery clubs emphasise "good form" (or good
technique) regardless of the quality of the equipment
an archer uses. The reason is simple; you will shoot
far more accurately, with any type of bow and using
any archery style, if you have good form. Only an
accredited and experienced coach can help you learn
good form. It will be good form that gives you the
most points, not high quality (and expensive)
equipment. This can be summarised as follows;
Good form + high quality equipment =
very high scores
Good form + low quality new archer's
equipment = good scores
Bad form + high quality equipment =
very low scores
Bad form + low quality new archer's
equipment = dismal scores
In your first year as a new archer, expect to buy a
bow that can only shoot to about 40 meters. (You
may only be able to shoot less than this.) Many bows
intended for new archers can shoot much further than
40 meters, but not accurately. After your first year of
archery expect to buy a new and more expensive bow
and a new set of arrows to match the bow. You may
want to buy a bow capable of shooting to 90 meters,
but by then you will know what type of bow you want
and your good form will allow you to shoot a heavier
draw weight bow.
TIP Read good books on archery form or
good archery technique. A good place to
start is to read the books recommended on
the Archery Australia website
shooting (freestyle) recurve. Buy (or make) yourself;
✔
1 x Arm Guard (or Bracer). Arm guards
come in two basic varieties, long and short.
Buy a short arm guard. The long arm guards
are good for people in the first few weeks of
learning but shooting with good form should
prevent any bow string hitting your upper
arm. If you need to use a long arm guard for
any length of time, talk to your coach as you
may need help with your shooting form.
TIP Pick one coach and follow their advice.
Too many people giving you advice leads to
confusion. Almost everyone at an archery
club will give you advice on how to shoot a
bow but only a few will be qualified as a
coach. Only one coach is right for you. Get
to know who are the accredited coaches in
your club.
TIP Some of the short arm guards are
very narrow and are good for
experienced archers who always shoot
with good form. Buy a wider one for
your first arm guard.
What do I buy for my first bow?
A modern recurve “bow” is made up of several
individual pieces. Each piece needs to be bought
separately and put together to make up a “bow”. The
only difference between a new archer's bow and an
elite bow is the quality of the parts used to make up
the bow. Once all the parts of the bow are assembled
the bow can be “set up” to use. See your club coach
for information about setting up a bow correctly.
I recommend you buy a recurve bow that conforms to
"free style" rules (i.e. sight, stabiliser and the bow is
released using your fingers). A good target archery
dealer will be aware of the rules governing our sport
and will help you select equipment that can be used
in freestyle target competitions.
Recurve Bows are recommended for new archers as
they can easily accommodate changes in draw length
as the new archer learns good form. There is also less
to go wrong with recurve bows and they are often
cheaper than other bows. Each bow manufacturer
makes several models raging from lower quality new
archer bows to high quality bows used to set new
world records.
✔
1 x Finger Tab A good Finger tab will be
made of multiple layers and have a block on
the back to stop you pinching the arrow.
Many finger tabs also have a built in “anchor
plate” (or “shelf”). An “anchor plate” is only
useful if you have a strong “anchor”. These
attachments can often get in the way of
developing a strong "anchor". Do not add the
“anchor plate” (or “shelf”)!
Here are my recommendations for a new archer
Buying your first target bow
Page 2
TIP Some tabs come in several sizes. Get a
tab that is your size.
being able to adjust the “tiller.”
TIP Read the manual that comes with a
new riser as it explains how to adjust the
limbs on that particular riser. If you buy a
second hand riser or have lost the manual,
go to the manufacturer's website and
download a new manual for that particular
model of riser.
TIP Some finger tabs have a metal frame.
Ensure the metal frame does not contact
your chin at anchor.
TIP Shooting gloves are only used by some
long bow shooters and are not widely used
in target archery.
✔
1 x Bow Sling Bow slings can come in
✔
1 x Riser (or bow handle)
TIP Risers are primarily made out of one of
four materials; wood, plastic, aluminium
alloy and carbon graphite. They vary in
quality (and price) depending on how they
are made. Wood risers are low quality.
Plastic risers are low quality. Die cast
aluminium risers are often used by
experienced archers and are of a reasonable
quality. Die cast risers can be “tuned” and
are best for new archers. Some risers are
machined out of one block of aluminium
alloy and can be “tuned”. Some high quality
aluminium alloy risers are first forged and
then machined and can be “tuned”. Some
very high quality risers are made from
carbon graphite and can also be “tuned”. I
recommend a new archer get a die cast
aluminium riser that can be tuned.
three main varieties according to where they
attach; finger slings, bow slings and wrist
slings. The cheapest and best is the finger
sling as it can easily be made at home using
an old shoelace. Start with a finger sling.
A Riser will
usually come in one of two varieties, and both
varieties are suitable for new archers to use.
One variety is made from wood or plastic. The
other variety is made from aluminium alloy or
carbon graphite. The bows made with a wood
or plastic riser are very limited and often
cannot be “tuned”. The bows with a metal or
carbon graphite riser are of better quality and
can be “tuned”. I recommend a metal riser. I
also recommend you get a riser with
“international” limb “pockets” as these can
accept limbs from many manufacturers.
TIP Metal risers are heavy. Wood or plastic
risers are lighter. New archers, or young
children, may not have the muscle
development to hold up a bow with a metal
riser. For these archers a wood or plastic
riser is adequate.
TIP The better quality risers allow you to
adjust the limbs from side to side as well as
✔
available in 23', 25” and sometimes 27”.
Limbs are available in “short”, “medium” and
“long”. By combining the different lengths of
riser and limbs it is possible to make a
recurve bow of 66” 68” or 70”. Tall adults
often need a bow of 70” whereas a shorter
adult person may need a bow of 66”. A
small child may need an even shorter bow
of 58 inches to 64 inches. Get the correct
combination to make the bow up to your
length.
2 x Limbs The limbs of a new archer's bow
usually come with the riser. Make sure your
limbs are of the correct draw weight and are
long enough to make up the correct bow
length for you. Get limbs to match the limb
pockets on your riser. If the limbs and riser
have “international” fittings, you will easily be
able to get heavier draw weight limbs for your
bow at a later time without the need to buy a
new riser.
TIP Limbs and Risers (or handles) each
come in 3 different lengths. Risers are
TIP Club coaches see many new archers
who buy bows that are too strong for them.
Don't be one of them. Draw weights of 20
pounds to 30 pounds are suitable for new
archers. (A small child may need an even
lighter draw weight of 10 pounds to 20
pounds.) Buy a bow with a lighter draw
weight than you think you need (or want)
and learn to shoot with “good form” at a
target club from an accredited coach.
TIP Don't try to grow into a bow or it could
Buying your first target bow
Page 3
be too strong and too long for you to use at
your current age.
separately to make up the balance you
need.
TIP The material used to make limbs
determine its quality. Limbs made entirely of
plastic are poor quality. Limbs made from
wood and fibreglass are usually of a good
quality and suit the new archer well. Limbs
made with fibreglass, wood and carbon
graphite are a higher quality. Limbs made
with fibreglass, carbon graphite and a
“foam” core instead of the wood are the
highest quality. (If you can afford it, buy
limbs with carbon graphite in them. As this
type of limb is much faster than limbs made
without carbon graphite).
✔
1 x Long Rod Stabiliser (or centre
stabiliser). Many people do not consider a
long rod stabiliser to be new archer
equipment, but I do. A long rod stabiliser,
when fitted to the front of a recurve bow, will
change the bow's centre of gravity to allow
the "top limb" of the bow to tilt forwards
away from the archer and toward the target
when the arrow is released. Bows that do not
have a long rod (or other stabilisers) fitted, tilt
the other way, or backwards towards the
archer. When the bow tilts forward, a strong
follow through can easily be taught. The
effect that is wanted is for the top limb of the
bow to tilt forwards when the arrow is
released, not the additional stabilising effect.
Cheap aluminium long rod stabilisers (or even
home made ones) are quite suitable for
achieving this effect.
TIP Many long rods do not come with
weights. You may have to buy weights
TIP Plunger buttons often have small grub
screws in them. Ensure that all the grub
screws are installed correctly and are tightly
done up.
TIP A plunger button is usually not needed
on wood or plastic risers as these risers
usually cannot be “tuned.”
✔
✔
1 x “Plunger Button” (or “cushion
plunger”). A “plunger button” or “cushion
plunger” helps to support the arrow before
and during the shot. A plunger button is
needed so that the bow can be tuned. Risers
with out a plunger button cannot be tuned.
1 x Arrow Rest There are two types of
arrow rest; ones where you shoot the arrow
over the riser's “shelf” and the other type
where you shoot the arrow around the riser's
“window”. Both types can be used in target
archery but only those types where you shoot
around the riser's “window” are used for
recurve bows. (The type were you shoot over
the shelf are used by compound archers.)
Usually, the arrow rest attaches to the
window of the riser by peeling off the back of
the rest and sticking it onto the riser. Get a
“flipper” arrow rest designed for target
shooting.
TIP Avoid arrow rests that use the “plunger
button” (or “cushion plunger”) to secure
them to the “riser”. A bow that uses the
plunger button to secure the arrow rest
cannot be tuned beyond a very basic set-up.
A simple stick on “flipper” arrow rest will
always out-perform an arrow rest secured
by the plunger button. Installing an arrow
rest that uses the plunger button to secure
it may result in over tightening beyond the
design of the plunger button and may cause
the plunger button to not work properly,
breaking, or damaging the riser. Arrow rests
that are secured by the plunger button are
prone to moving, varying the set up and
tuning. This type of arrow rest may also
result in the unwanted marking of the
Buying your first target bow
Page 4
plunger button when it is tightened enough
to hold the arrow rest securely.
bow you want to buy can use a string made
from a “HMPE” based fibre.
TIP Young archers may need a more
robust arrow rest.
TIP If you can afford it, buy a set of limbs
that can use bow string made with a
“HMPE” based fibre.
✔
1 x Bow Sight. A bow sight is used on free
style recurve bows. Bow sights are necessary
to learn good form. A bow sight will help you
to shoot more accurately. Buy a sight that has
been made for target recurve archery.
Hunting style sights are not suitable for target
archery.
TIP Bow sights often have small grub
screws in them. Ensure that all the grub
screws are installed correctly and are tightly
done up.
✔
✔
1 x Bow String. To simplify things, Bow
strings are made from two main types of
fibres. Hire bows often use a cheep “Dacron”
strings whereas a better quality bow can
safely use a string that is made from "High
Modulus Polyethylene" fibre (HMPE). Often a
string made with “HMPE” fibre is sold as FastFlight or Dyneema or BCY 452 X or Angel etc.
“HMPE” based strings are much faster than
“Dacron” strings. Many bows intended for
new archers can also use a “HMPE” based
string. Some limbs cannot use a string made
with a “HMPE” based fibre because they will
break the bow's limbs. Check to see if the
8 x Arrows. Arrows are fundamental for
archery. Buy target arrows. You will need at
least 8 arrows for target shooting. Arrows are
made up of 4 main parts. The shaft, the point
(or pile), the fletches and the knock.
1. Shafts are the most important component of
arrows. Some manufacturers make their
arrow shaft using a "X7” aluminium alloy. This
type of arrow is cheap and some very good
scores have been shot with them. This is the
best material for new archers to use. Arrows
made from the “XX75” aluminium alloy are
good for younger children simply because
they bend easier, instead of breaking,
compared to “X7” or “carbon” arrows. Carbon
fibre or hollow fibreglass arrow shafts are
usually not suitable for new archers.
2. Points (or piles) are to be a target type.
Avoid buying arrows with screw in points.
Hunting or field arrows often have screw in
field points that are too heavy for target
archery.
3. Fletches come in a variety of sizes and
colours. Buy short ones. Long fletches are not
usually used for target archery.
4. Knocks come in a variety of colours. Choose
a colour that you can see easily. Florescent
colours are best.
TIP When you buy your arrows make sure
you also buy spare "fletches", "knocks" and
“glue” for your arrows. You will need spare
fletches, knocks and glue to repair damaged
arrows and keep them all usable. Make sure
you get the right glue for your arrow shafts.
TIP Most arrow shafts have a unique size
marked on them. The combination of the
length of the arrow and the draw weight of
the bow determines the "spine" (or size) of
the arrow. There are charts for determining
the correct “spine” of the arrows you need.
A good target archery dealer will have these
charts and know how to use them. (These
charts are available for free off the internet
from
the
various
arrow
shaft
manufacturers.)
TIP Some people need longer arrows and
some people need shorter arrows.
Regardless of the length of arrows you use,
cut your first set of arrows about 50mm
longer than you need to allow for changes
to your shooting technique. You can always
cut these arrows again if you later decide
to install a “clicker”.
TIP Expect to buy new arrows to replace
the ones you bent, lost or broke beyond
Buying your first target bow
Page 5
repair.
from scratching. (After all, you paid good
money for it!)
TIP
Carbon fibre or hollow fibreglass
arrows fly well but are often more expensive
than the aluminium “X7” or “XX75” alloy
ones. Carbon arrows are often sold in
groups of 12. If you buy carbon arrows, you
may have to buy 12 carbon arrows at a
time. This is expensive if you only want to
replace one arrow.
✔
1 x Quiver. Quivers to put arrows in come
✔
1 x Bow Stringer. A bow stringer will
in two varieties. One variety is a ground
quiver. The other variety is a quiver you can
wear on your belt. Both work well and both
styles can be bought or be made at home.
TIP Your archery equipment will fit into a
suitable sports bag. You may need to add
padding to the bag. Use socks to put over
the riser and the individual limbs. Long
items such as arrows or long rod stabiliser
can fit into a short PVC storm water pipe
with the end caps fitted.

1 x Bow Stand A bow stand is useful for
keeping the ends of the limbs out of the dirt
while you collect your arrows.
allow you to string your bow safely without
twisting your limbs. Some clubs have a safe
way to string your bow. Eventually you will
want to get your own bow stringer.
1 x Carry Bag A carry bag is to put all your
TIP
Protect all your archery equipment
•
1 x Vee Bar and extra stabilisers
indicator) is commonly used on a recurve bow
once your draw length has settled down. Your
arrows will need to be cut for a second time
to your final draw length to be able to use a
“clicker”. Your club coach an advise you when
and how to use a “clicker”.
A
“Vee Bar” is used with extra stabilisers. They
are commonly used by recurve archers to give
more stability to the shot. They are only
effective if you have a reasonable form. Your
club coach can advise you when to use a “Vee
Bar” and extra stabilisers.
Buy your first bow from a reputable target archery
shop where you will be served by a person who
shoots a recurve bow regularly at a target archery
club (don't be afraid to ask them). Many people at
your archery club will be only too glad to make a
recommendation where you can buy a bow.
There are additional items that make archery more
pleasant but may not be needed as soon as you buy
your archery equipment. If you can afford to, buy or
make yourself;
equipment in while it is stored at home in
between shoots and while taking all your gear
to and from the archery field. You can either
pad out a suitable bag or buy a custom bow
case.
1 x Clicker A clicker (or draw check
Where to buy your first bow
Optional extras

•
In the future
In the future, your good form will allow you to
effectively use two other items attached to your
“riser” but these items are not needed by new
archers. The items that are not needed are;
Some shops sell mostly hunting style archery
equipment and do not know how to correctly sell and
set up a new archer's target equipment. We know
this at our club because we often see the results of
bad purchases made at a predominantly hunting
shop. Many people can be talked into an inappropriate
sale by the shops sales staff. It is the coaches at the
club that have to attempt to set up a new archer's
hunting bow for target shooting or even advise people
to take their new bow back as they have inadvertently
bought the wrong equipment.
TIP Some shops sell equipment over the
internet. Only buy from these shops if you
know exactly what you need. If you don’t
Buying your first target bow
Page 6
know exactly what you need or are not sure,
talk to your club coach.
TIP Some internet shops are located in a
different country than Australia. If you buy
from them, the money you thought you were
saving may have to be paid out by you in
freight or customs tax when you bring the
equipment into Australia.
TIP Consumer laws are different in different
countries. The protection of consumer law in
Australia is not available overseas. Guarantees
and refunds may be difficult, or impossible to
claim when you buy from a shop that is based
in a different country than your own.
TIP Some people buy equipment from a
general sports store or from a second hand
dealer or from mates. Be very careful. Unless
you know exactly what you need, you may be
buying the wrong equipment for you. Talk to
your club coach before you make any
purchases from these places.
The sales hype surrounding each of these items is produced
by each manufacturer and pitched at the archer to try and
persuade the archer to buy their brand. Don't believe all the
marketing hype. This article does not support any one
particular brand.
David Moller, May 2010
David Moller has sold archery equipment for many years. He
qualified as a Grand Master Bowman in target archery before
he was 18. He has shot recurve and compound bows, won
national titles and held numerous state and national records.
He is currently accredited by Archery Australia as a club
coach.
What if I cannot afford all this
equipment?
Some people cannot afford to get all this archery
equipment in one go. If this is you, then buy the arm
guard, the finger tab and the arrows. At many clubs
you can hire a club bow to use. Once you buy your
arrows, it may be best to eventually buy a bow that
has a draw weight that matches the arrows.
Most clubs have a stock of beginner recurve bows
that club members can use. It may be possible for a
new archer who is a club member to use one of the
club bows beyond the initial beginner course, until
they can get their own bow. See a member of the
club committee for details.
Buying your first target bow
Page 7