What Women Want
Transcription
What Women Want
designopinion WHAT WOMEN WANT Like Chaucer’s Wife of Bath, Steve Gibbons poses the eternal question: what do women want? And finds the answers – at least for beauty packaging – online For this month’s article, we ventured into the world of beauty forums and asked “if there is one thing you want from beauty product packaging what would it be?” If you ask people what they want, they will tell you just as vociferously what they don’t want. We know that women have a more intimate relationship with beauty than any other consumer goods category, but were still taken aback by the amount of engagement. Only 21 beauty obsessives responded, so this doesn’t represent anything like the ‘average’ consumer and it isn’t intended to be statistically relevant, but it reveals insights from women who take this stuff very seriously. Responses were broadly categorised into three different areas: aesthetics, sustainability and ergonomics. What follows is a bottom up view of structural packaging – quite literally in one case. It needs to look, feel and stay beautiful Our respondents are highly attuned to the sensory aesthetics of packaging: “No cheap metal plating that scratches off. Clean, minimalist and tactile please.” “Estée Lauder Pure Colour Envy lipsticks have fab, luxe-feeling packaging. They’re heavy (weight is definitely a factor for things feeling luxurious) and the lids are magnetised so they have a lush ‘snap’ on closing.” Durability is a consistently mentioned problem: “I don’t like print that comes off on your hands or stuff that gets dirty immediately.” “I don’t like it when stuff shows fingerprints really badly – like NARS packaging.” Tone of voice and the recent fashion for retro are also putting off some beauty lovers: “I really don’t like overly sexual product names.” “Soap and Glory irritates me – annoying names and garish pink packaging.” “Benefit is due a rebrand – the retro chic is looking twee.” Thoughts around sustainability Recycling and reuse are issues as much as the overuse of unnecessary packaging: “I like a recyclable glass container – Vichy Hydrating Serum and Avène are good. This is what swings it for me over their competitors. I dislike Eucerin filler capsules [AntiAge Hyaluron-Filler Concentrate] and their tacky, wasteful plinth.” “Simple packaging – not lots of layers – in proportion to the contents.” “Packaging that is most likely to be recyclable – where I live, you can’t recycle plastic tubes.” “I like Liberty and Orla Kiely prints and it would be nice to see companies working with print designers to create packaging that looks great on your dressing table and can be kept after.” Lessons in ergonomics Our cohort really hates not being able to get at all the product. They want all the content to be dispensed, but they also want confirmation that it has happened, and they want the appropriate dose to be delivered: “I want pumps that don’t stop working when you get half way down.” “I want packaging that is easy to dismantle, to scrape the dregs out of it.” “My biggest bugbear is being caught short. I want to know when I need to restock and I want things packaged transparently so I can keep an eye on how something’s going down.” “I only started using hair oil when I found a bottle which gave off a very fine mist I could spray on my hands and work through my hair. Before it was an inaccessible product to me.” Closures got our respondents quite excited: “With tubes I much prefer a flip top than a screw cap. I hate squeezing out a blob of Ciment Thermique then having to balance the blob on my hand while trying to screw the cap back on.” “Products for the shower are better in tubes (flip tops please), pumps or bottles (again a lid that pops open rather than a top that unscrews).” But be warned: “No to flimsy flip tops like Bioderma Micellar Water – it breaks off within the first five uses every single time.” “I HATE flip tops as I’ve ruined my manicure countless times with them, it’s just got to open and shut easily!” The amount of ‘real estate’ a product takes up is also an important consideration, as is its durability: “I want SLEEKNESS, I can’t be doing with bulky packaging and wasted space.” “For cosmetics I like stuff that’s robust enough to be put in a bag without the risk of the lid coming off.” Some brands get ergonomics spot on and others get it completely wrong: “Bobbi Brown has the best packaging, period. The lids don’t come off the lipsticks, you can see the colours inside at a glance, and there are no stupid trays for shit brushes. Laura Mercier is the very opposite – what should be an easy-wearing brand is apparently incapable of packaging its make-up.” And perhaps a little more unrealistically: “I want everything to be square, so it can be packed closely, no round compacts or tubular lipsticks.” Ergonomics applies equally to the graphics: “Bigger WRITING please – I can’t be the only one squinting to see what I’m about to use, or how to use it.” And finally, the most eye-widening response we received: “I quite like packaging that is sexy (by which I mean, looks like a sex toy). Diorific Lipstick is a case in point – actually quite crap lipstick but looks like a fancy buttplug. With hindsight, that might have been why I bought it.” Truly getting to the bottom of structural packaging. Steve Gibbons DewGibbons + Partners Steve Gibbons is Managing Director of DewGibbons + Partners. The company is a leading brand design consultancy specialising in the health and beauty sector e-mail steve@ dewgibbons.com If you ask people what they want, they will tell you just as vociferously what they don’t want Bobbi Brown’s packs were singled out for praise, while one respondent said they purchased Diorific Lipstick for its ‘sexy’ look May 2015 SPC 29