Doors - NRHA

CONSTRUCTION AND
CHAPTER B8
SPECIFICATIONS
DOORS
INTRODUCTION
At first glance, doors may appear to be a
complex and difficult product line to sell. But
doors and the accessories that go with them are
really simple products that have evolved over
the years to meet customers’ changing needs.
Doors are a puzzle to many salespeople, but
they present a tremendous opportunity for you to
provide the value-added service that sets you
apart from your competitors. By taking the time
to learn about doors, you’ll close more sales
because you can give your customers the
knowledgeable help they need. Along the way,
you’ll also have fun working with a product line
that constantly offers something new and
interesting to learn.
Many so-called “complex and confusing”
aspects of doors are simply features that have
been added to make doors more durable, more
secure or more energy efficient without
sacrificing the traditional styles customers want.
As you study this chapter, you’ll learn the basic
door components.
You’ll find out how to organize your knowledge
to understand the features and benefits of your
product line. And you’ll learn how the
accessories and related items you sell with
doors, fit into house construction.
A great advantage you have as a
knowledgeable salesperson, is that many other
salespeople are intimidated by product lines that
seem complex. When customers shop for doors,
they’re often shopping for technical expertise,
not for price. If you can recommend the right
products and show them how those products
meet their needs, you’ll build relationships that
lead to larger sales, satisfied customers, repeat
business and career advancement possibilities.
CONSTRUCTION AND
SPECIFICATIONS
When you sell a door, chances are your
customers need the door and some
“accessories” too.
If your customers are simply replacing an
existing door, they may only need a door blank.
In new construction, customers may buy door
blanks plus the materials and accessories they
need to assemble the door-and-frame unit.
Most customers buy prehung doors. A prehung
door is already installed in its frame, with hinges
applied and a hole bored for a lockset. But
despite how the door is sold, the parts of the
door assembly are much the same.
OVERVIEW OF A DOOR-AND-FRAME
ASSEMBLY
A door-and-frame assembly is the door, the
frame around it, hardware to hang and latch it
and trim to hide the gaps between the frame and
the surrounding wall. The parts may vary
according to whether the door is an interior or an
exterior unit, how it swings and other factors.
A DOOR-AND-FRAME ASSEMBLY
The door can be one of any number of styles.
The style your customer chooses depends on
whether the door is an interior or exterior door,
its location (closet, bedroom or bathroom, for
example) and the customer’s personal
preference.
As a rule, a door must be trimmed to size,
mortised so the hinges can be fitted flush with
the surface of the edge of the door, bored for a
lockset and bevelled at a slight angle along the
latch edge. When you buy a prehung door most
of this work is done for you at the factory.
HOW A DOOR IS MILLED
For example, the standard height of a door is
80" or 6'-8", so it is written 6/8. Some common
door widths are 32" (2'-8") and 36" (3'-0"). Those
sizes would be written 2/8 and 3/0. The only
exception to this rule is a door cut to special
size. These are written in inches only, for
example, 311/2".
When you specify doors always write the width
first, then the height and finally the thickness,
like this: width x height - thickness.
For example, a door 32" (2'-8") wide, 80" (6'-8")
high and 13/8" thick, is written 2/8 x 6/8 - 13/8.
This rule applies to a cut door, too, for example:
311/2" x 791/4" - 13/8".
HOW TO SPECIFY DOOR SWINGS
When you sell doors, your customers need to
specify the size and the swing.
It’s easy to figure out how a door should swing
using a floor plan of the building. As a rule,
exterior doors should always swing into the
building. Most interior doors swing into the room,
unless the room is small, such as a closet or
furnace room. Doors that swing out into traffic
areas are dangerous.
The frame around the door is called the jamb. It
has a leg on each side and a head piece across
the top. Jambs for interior doors may be flat and
sold with door stops, or rabbeted with a built-in
stop. Exterior jambs are always rabbeted to
provide extra security. An exterior door also
requires a sill and a threshold to seal the bottom
of the door and shed water away from the
structure.
Casing covers the gap between the door jamb
and the wall framing. When you sell interior
doors, the casing on both sides of the door
probably will match. An exterior door, especially
a factory-built prehung door, may already have
brick mould applied as exterior casing. When
you sell exterior casing separately, both brick
moulding and 1x4 boards are popular.
HOW TO SPECIFY DOOR SIZES
Everyone who sells doors shows door sizes with
standard industry conventions. Door sizes are
written in feet and inches with a slash separating
the two, like this: feet/inches.
Whether a door swings right or left depends on
the traffic flow. The door should swing away
from traffic. If a wall is nearby, swing the door to
the wall.
Specifying door “handing” can be a little tricky.
One convention (rule) is used for primary doors
and another is for screen and storm doors.
Terms and conventions vary between customers
and even among suppliers. Sometimes
customers simply don’t understand the door
swing rules. So, when you specify door swings,
it’s a good idea to draw a diagram, or walk over
to a similar door in your store, to be sure you
understand each other.
Many manufacturers use an “ANSI rule”
(American National Standards Institute) for
primary door swings. (Make sure your supplier
follows this rule and if not, identify the rule they
follow.) When you specify door handing “view”
the door from the “outside”. Then the “rule” is
simple to remember. If the door swings in, it may
be a right hand or a left hand door. If it swings
out, it can be either a left hand reverse or a right
hand reverse swing.
To figure out the swing, imagine yourself
standing in front of the door, outside the room or
building. If the door swings in and opens to the
left, it’s a left hand swing (it’s a left hand reverse
if it opens out). If it swings to the right, it’s a right
hand (or right hand reverse) swing.
Pairs of doors work the same, except that you
also need to distinguish between the active door
(the one with the lockset) and the inactive door
(the one fastened at the top and bottom with
flush bolts).
Some literature shows how to figure door swings
while standing in the room, opening the door
toward you. Both methods just discussed will
give you the same answer.
Understanding door swings is only half the
battle. Make sure your customer understands
the swing, or there’s a chance that the swing will
be wrong. Always draw a diagram showing both
sides of the room with the door half open.
Prehung doors are expensive, especially when a
customer won’t accept them because they swing
wrong. It’s better to be too thorough than not
thorough enough.
DOOR HANDLING
INSIDE THE ROOM
A typical stile-and-rail door has a top rail, a
bottom rail and a lock rail at standard lockset
height. Some doors have one or more vertical
members between the stiles, called mullions.
Douglas fir, hemlock and pine are the most
common species used to manufacture stile-andrail doors. Stiles and rails may be solid, or
covered with veneer. There are two grades of
stile and rail materials: premium grade doors are
graded for a stain and varnish finish. Standard
grade doors are graded for a paint finish and
may have visible defects.
A panel door is a stile-and-rail door with panels
inserted in the frame. There are two types of
panels: flat or raised. Exterior doors always have
raised panels, interior doors may use either
type. Flat panels are usually made of 1/4"
plywood, hardboard, particleboard or medium
density fibre board (MDF). Raised panels are
often made of 3/4" or 11/8" solid or veneered
wood, or a non-veneer panel such as
particleboard or MDF.
A sash door is a stile-and-rail door with panes of
glass or other glazing material. Glass is the most
common glazing material, but plexiglass and
coloured or patterned plastic are also used. The
glazing may be in a single pane, or divided into
smaller individual lights.
Building codes require that glass in a door must
be safety glass: tempered, laminated or
embedded with wire mesh. Insulating glass (two
panes of glass in a frame with a sealed air
space between them) is available in entrance
doors.
DOOR HANDLING
OUTSIDE THE ROOM
A STILE-AND-RAIL DOOR
STILE-AND-RAIL WOOD DOORS
There are two basic types of doors: flush and
stile-and-rail. A stile-and-rail door has a frame
made up of vertical members called stiles and
horizontal members called rails. Panels or
glazing (glass) fill the spaces between the
members.
FLUSH WOOD DOORS
A flush door is also built around a frame of stiles
and rails, but the frame is completely covered on
both sides with a thin skin. The skin may be
wood veneer, hardboard, plastic laminate or
other material. Hardboard skins may be flat and
primed for paint, or embossed with a pattern to
look like traditional stile-and-rail doors.
Flush doors may be hollow or solid. Hollow core
doors (HC) have only lightweight wood or
cardboard spacers inside to separate the two
skins. Solid wood lock blocks, about 4" wide and
30" long, are inserted along each side to provide
support for the lockset.
Most solid core doors (SC) have particleboard
cores. A solid core door provides better security,
sound proofing and fire resistance than a hollow
core door. Building codes sometimes require a
door to resist fire for a specified time, a 20
minute rating may be required between the
house and an attached garage, for example.
Solid core flush doors may be rated for fire
resistance up to 90 minutes.
Glazing insert panels are available for flush
doors, in various sizes and shapes. They can be
installed in any flush door but aren’t usually
installed in HC doors, since they are used
mainly for interior applications.
A HOLLOW CORE FLUSH DOOR
ability to withstand weather exposure. No door
will withstand the weather unless it is sealed and
finished carefully, according to the
manufacturer’s instructions.
There are differences between an interior and
exterior door, such as its durability or security
value, whether it contains glass and is used as
an entry door, or simply that the style is
traditionally used in either interior or exterior
applications. As a rule, encourage your
customers to buy interior doors for interior
applications and exterior doors for exterior
applications.
INTERIOR DOOR STYLES AND
SIZES
Both flush and stile-and-rail doors are used as
interior doors. Flush doors are inexpensive and
have a contemporary look that fits most modern
homes. Most have wood veneer faces, usually
lauan (Philippine mahogany), birch, ash or oak.
Hardboard skins have become more popular in
recent years, including embossed skins
patterned to look like stile-and-rail doors.
SIZES
Interior wood flush doors may be 13/8" or 13/4"
thick, but 13/8" is much more common. Standard
widths are 1/6, 1/8, 2/0, 2/4, 2/6, 2/8 and 3/0
(Note: 1/10, 2/2 and 2/10 are not standard
widths). Most sizes are available in both 6/8 and
7/0 heights.
Interior stile-and-rail doors are generally divided
into three categories: 13/8" interior panel doors,
11/8" or 13/8" louver doors and 11/8" or 13/8" bifold
doors.
Louver doors are also used as closet doors,
both for style and where air circulation is
important to prevent mould and mildew.
Standard louver door widths range from 1/0 to
3/0, in both 6/6 and 6/8 heights.
STYLES, SIZES AND PRIMARY
USES
Doors are manufactured for either interior or
exterior use, but the classifications are based on
the style of the door rather than any special
Panel doors are used anywhere in the house.
They are manufactured with two to eight panels,
but the most popular styles are 4 and 6 panel
doors. Standard widths are 1/6, 1/8, 2/0, 2/4,
2/6, 2/8 and 3/0. Standard heights are 6/8 and
7/0. Both louver and panel doors are
manufactured in 6/6 heights for use in bifold
units.
SOME STILE-AND-RAIL DOOR STYLES
POCKET DOORS
A pocket door is
similar to a bypassing
door unit, except that
a pocket door rolls
back into the wall.
You’ll probably sell a
prebuilt kit that
includes a frame to
house the door inside
the wall, track and hardware.
Standard interior doors are used with pocket
frames. The rough opening is approximately
twice the door width. After the pocket frame is
installed, the “pocket” part is covered with wall
finish material and looks like part of the wall.
BYPASSING DOORS
Bypassing (sliding)
doors are a popular
style for closet
doors. A bypassing
unit
has
two
(sometimes 3 or
more)
standard
interior doors, hung
on rollers from a
track and opening
from side to side.
Floor guides hold the doors in place at the
bottom. Hollow core flush doors are the most
common door styles, although interior louver,
panel and mirrored doors are also used.
Bypassing track and hardware comes prepackaged in 4', 5' and 6' widths. Be sure that the
doors you sell don’t exceed the weight limit for
the track.
The instructions in the hardware kit usually
specify a finished opening rather than a rough
opening. A finished opening is the distance
between the jambs.
The finished opening is generally about 11/2"
taller than the door height and about 1" narrower
than the combined door widths. When selling
bypass doors it’s common to get the track and
hardware from your hardware section and the
doors from your millwork stock. Though
pre-packaged bypass doors and hardware are
available,.
There is a special pocket door jamb set
available because the pocket door requires a
split jamb at the pocket side and a stop on both
sides of the closed pocket door. Some builders
make their jamb sets out of stock jambs and
stops.
BIFOLD DOORS
Bifold doors are used
primarily for closets,
especially in small
rooms where you
don’t want an open
door to interfere with
traffic. Bifold units
may include one pair
of doors for openings
through 36" and
sometimes 48" wide
and two pairs for
openings from 48" up
to 72". Bifold doors are manufactured in 6/6
heights to allow room for the track and hardware
when installed in a 6/8 finished opening.
Bifold doors have one or two pairs of doors that
fold in half to open. A bifold unit consists of
doors hinged in pairs, a track and a hardware
kit.
The doors may be hollow core flush, panel,
mirrored, or louver. Bifold units are undersized
so they can be used to replace swinging or
bypassing doors. A 4/0 x 6/8 bifold unit, for
example, is made to fit into a 48"x80" finished
opening. The hardware kit contains instructions
for the finished opening.
It’s most common to sell the pre-packaged bifold
unit consisting of the doors and hardware all in
one package. Occasionally you may sell the
hardware from your hardware section and the
individual doors from your millwork stock.
INTERIOR DOOR INSTALLATION DETAILS
Interior doors may be installed so they swing on
hinges and close against a stop, or so they hang
from a track and slide from side to side.
Bypassing doors and pocket doors hang from a
track. Bifold doors pivot on “pins” and use a
track to guide the leading edge.
Most doors are enclosed in jambs which are
pieces of finish lumber that run along both sides
and across the top of a door opening. Bifold
doors may be enclosed in a jamb, but for style
and/or economy their openings may just be
drywalled (no wood jamb or trim). It’s the
owner’s choice.
The rough framing may be nailed in quickly, but
jambs are installed carefully and precisely, using
shims to position them so they are plumb,
square and fit the door exactly.
The jamb width always matches the wall
thickness from finished surface to finished
surface. You may sell either solid jambs or split
jambs. Solid jambs are usually 49/16" or 45/8" to
match the most common wall thicknesses. Split
jambs are made in two pieces so the jamb width
can be adjusted to match the wall thickness.
Your customer will need door stops with solid
jambs, but split jambs are milled so the stop is
built into the jamb. Casing covers the gap
between the jamb and the rough framing. See
the Millwork chapter for more information on
jambs.
Interior swinging door rough openings should be
1
/2" wider and taller than the door-and-frame unit.
This gap allows room to insert wood shims to
keep the unit plumb and square. Interior jambs
are about 3/4" thick, so you should add 2" to the
door width to find the rough opening width.
There should be 1/2" to 1" clearance at the door
bottom, depending on whether the floor will be
carpeted. Add 2" to the door height, unless the
carpet will be very thick.
Many people hang interior doors on two hinges,
but three hinges give better support and prevent
the door from shifting or warping. Common
hinge and lock positions are shown in the “How
a door is milled” figure earlier in this chapter.
Interior doors can be installed with basic
carpentry tools: hammer, hand saw, drill,
measuring tape, 24" level, 6' straight edge,
plane, screwdriver, utility knife and blades. Your
customers will need hinges (4"x4" for 13/4" doors,
or 31/2"x31/2" for 13/8" doors), a 1" bit and a 21/8"
hole saw. If available, sell round corner (RC)
hinges for your customers with routers and
square corner (sc) hinges for your customers
using chisels. Many stores also rent or lend
boring jigs and necessary drill bits to prepare a
door for a lock or latch.
Of course most doors sold are prehung and do
not require hinges from stock as they are
already installed. Most prehung doors also have
the lock hole predrilled.
The installation materials needed include shims
to plumb the jamb and 21/2" finishing nails to
fasten the jamb to the wall framing, interior
casing (2' - 7’, 1' - 4') and 2" finishing nails to
apply it.
WOOD ENTRANCE DOOR
STYLES AND SIZES
There are many exterior wood door styles, as
shown in several of the following figures and
ranging from simple solid core flush doors to
ornate stile-and-rail entry systems with handcarved designs and leaded glass. We’ll look at
each style to see how it is commonly used.
Front entrance doors are generally the most
ornate. Stile-and-rail doors with decorative
panels and glazing are popular for formal
entryways. 3/0 is the most common width of a
front entry door, but 2/8 is also standard. 2/6 is
available in some designs. 6/8 is the standard
height but 7/0 is usually available.
SIDELIGHTS
Sidelights are often used as decorative panels
next to a front entry door and are made to match
or complement many front entry door styles.
Standard widths range from 10" to 18". The
standard height is 801/2". The extra 1/2" allows
SOME ENTRANCE DOOR STYLES
FRENCH DOORS
French or casement doors are mostly glass.
Since glass increases the weight of the door
considerably and there is no lock rail to help
support the extra weight, an 18" wide bottom rail
is used. French doors are commonly available
with 1, 5, 10 or 15 lites (panes of glass), but
other combinations are also manufactured.
Customers often install French doors in pairs, as
access to a patio or deck, but they’re also used
as interior doors. Individual doors are 13/8" or 1_"
thick and 2/0, 2/6, 2/8 or 3/0 wide, to make pairs
from 4/0, 5/0 or 6/0 and 6/8 and 7/0 are standard
heights.
Some entrance and French door styles are also
available with insulating glass. All insulating
doors are 13/4" thick, to carry the extra weight of
a double layer of glass. Like other entry doors,
insulating doors come in standard 2/6, 2/8 and
3/0 widths and 6/8 and 7/0 heights.
SOME FRENCH DOOR STYLES
the sidelight to run from the head jamb to sill
while leaving space for a door bottom and
threshold under the active door.
Other entrance doors are intended for either less
formal front entrances, or for back (or service)
doors. They are sash doors, with panes of glass
in the upper half and panels below, as shown in
the “Service Doors” figure. These doors are
usually 13/4" thick but may be 13/8". 2/8 is the
most common back door width, but 2/6 and 3/0
are also standard. 6/8 is the standard height.
SERVICE DOORS
UTILITY DOORS
Utility doors provide access to garages, sheds
and other storage buildings. Flush doors are the
most common type used for utility doors. They
may be hollow or solid core, but are usually 13/4"
thick. 2/6, 2/8 and 3/0 are standard widths; 6/8
and 7/0 heights are available.
PATIO DOORS
Decks and patios have become the rule rather
than the exception and many new homes have
some sort of patio door. There are two basic
types of patio doors: sliding and swinging.
Sliding patio doors are the oldest and a popular
style.
Like windows, sliding patio doors may be
manufactured with either aluminum or wood
frames. Most are two-panel doors, with an active
(operating) and an inactive (fixed) panel. The
active door is set on rollers that ride in a track
and the frame is weather-stripped on the latch
edge and along the top.
ALUMINUM SIDING DOORS
The disadvantage of wood is that it is prone to
decay and insect damage and requires periodic
maintenance. To protect the wood frames, some
patio doors are clad with a thin layer of vinyl or
aluminum. Cladding increases the cost, of
course, but permanently protects the wood and
eliminates painting.
Sizes
The most common patio door size is 6/0 x 6/8
(two 3/0 panels), but available sizes range from
5/0 to 12/0 wide. As a rule, the left hand door in
a two-panel unit is the active door. Aluminum
door suppliers’ catalogues show active panels
with an “X” and inactive panels with an “O”.
Doors may be written as “XO”, “OXO”, or
“OXXO”, for example, to show the sequence of
panels as viewed from the outside. Wood patio
doors are generally written with an arrow to
show the active door.
SWINGING
The glass may be single or insulating, but is
always tempered safety glass. Structurally,
sliding patio doors have two weaknesses, both
similar to horizontal sliding windows. First, the
rollers carry the full weight of the door and tend
to wear out.
Second, since the door slides along its
weatherstripping rather than closing against it,
the weatherstripping can’t be too tight or it will
make the door difficult to open and close. As a
result, the weatherstripping doesn’t seal as
effectively as in a swinging door.
Aluminum
Aluminum patio doors may be sold with the
frames bare (called mill finish), but more often
the frames are anodized. Anodizing is a process
that bonds the finish to the aluminum so it is
much more durable than any painted surface.
Anodized finishes are generally either clear or
bronze.
Wood
Wood sliding patio door frames are sealed with
preservative, ready for your customer to finish.
Wood doors are better quality than aluminum,
because wood is stronger and a much better
natural insulator.
Swinging patio doors offer two major
advantages over sliding doors. First, a swinging
door is more energy efficient. The weather
stripping on a swinging door can be sealed
much more tightly than on a sliding door.
Second, a deadbolt can be installed on a
swinging door, making it much more secure.
Swinging doors also provide a “French door”
look that many customers prefer.
Swinging patio door units are always
manufactured with wood frames. They are
hinged to the centre, with the active panel
latched to the jamb.
Suppliers specify the active panel by drawing in
the hinges and lockset holes, or with two dotted
lines running from the centre of the hinge side to
the corners of the latch side of the door, or by a
drawing.
Like sliding doors, common sizes range from 5/0
to 12/0, in two, three, or four-panel units.
SWINGING PATIO DOORS
STEEL ENTRY SYSTEMS
SOME STEEL DOOR STYLES
Like other advances in the door industry, steel
entry systems have become popular because
they improve energy efficiency and security
without sacrificing style. The doors have a steel
stile-and-rail framework filled with insulating
foam and covered with a steel skin. The door is
prehung in a frame with the weather stripping,
sill and threshold already in place (see the
“cutaway” below). The steel skins are often
embossed to match traditional wood door styles.
Once primed and painted, a steel entry door can
look almost identical to a wood door, including
decorative glass inserts and side lights.
A CUTAWAY OF A STEEL
ENTRANCE DOOR
ENERGY EFFICIENCY
Two factors decide a steel entry unit’s energy
efficiency: R-value and the air infiltration
between the door and frame. The system with
the highest R-value isn’t necessarily the most
efficient.
In comparing manufacturers, the Insulated Steel
Door Systems Institute combines R-value and
air infiltration rate into an index of overall
efficiency called a DISI rating. The lower the
rating, the more energy efficient the door.
Common ratings for popular doors range from
2.5 down to about 1.5. You frequently can find
ratings in the manufacturer’s literature.
The R-value of a door decreases as more glass
is added, but that is a trade-off often accepted if
a certain style door is wanted.
There are a several features to look for in
evaluating steel entry systems. Depending on
the foam used in the core, the R-value may
range from R-7 to R-16.
Heat travels quickly through metal and most of
the heat a steel door loses escapes around the
foam core, through the framework and skin. To
prevent this heat loss, many steel doors have a
thermal break which is a strip of plastic
separating the inner and outer skins.
The frame also plays a part. Most steel entry
systems use wood frames, to take advantage of
the natural insulating value of wood and so they
can be installed by nailing. Air infiltration is as
important as R-value in the overall energy
efficiency of the unit. Most doors are weatherstripped all around with a vinyl bulb compression
weatherstripping. Some vinyl bulbs have
magnetic strips built in, to make an even better
seal. Most units have built-in vinyl sweeps under
the door and a threshold that may be adjusted
as the vinyl sweep becomes worn.
Steel entry systems aren’t appropriate for all
your door customers. Some customers won’t
like the idea of using non-traditional materials
for a front entry door and others can’t afford
them. If your customer is willing to invest a little
extra money for added energy efficiency,
security and durability, a steel entry door is an
effective solution.
STORM DOORS
A storm door is a door that goes over the
primary entry door, to protect the primary door
from the weather, increase the energy efficiency
of the entryway and provide summer ventilation.
It consists of a lightweight stile-and-rail frame
with large glass panels that can be exchanged
for screens.
Storm doors are made in wood and aluminum,
but aluminum doors are more popular because
they are prefinished, cost less, are more durable
and install more easily.
Aluminum storm door stiles and rails may be
hollow, or filled with wood or foam. The corners
are reinforced and screwed or welded together.
Most aluminum storm doors are surrounded by a
lightweight frame that is fastened directly over
the exterior door casing. Some brands use a
continuous hinge running the full length of the
door, for added strength.
Storm doors are built for energy efficiency and
security. Like a wood door, the spaces between
the stiles and rails may be filled with panels or
glazing. The panels in many aluminum storm
SOME STORM DOOR STYLES
doors have an insulating foam core and
insulating glass also may be available.
Some doors have a self-storing feature. The
door is manufactured so the lower glass panel
slides up to allow ventilation and doesn’t need to
be removed. Many models are weather-stripped
and some have adjustable vinyl sweeps at the
bottom. Key locks and deadbolts are also
available.
Sizes
Storm doors are 11/8" thick, in 2/6, 2/8 and 3/0
widths, with other special order sizes sometimes
available. The height is usually 6/9. Many
models are adjustable up to 2", to allow for
variations in the size of the door frame.
Handing
Storm door “handing” is the opposite of primary
door handing, because storm and screen doors
always swing out. Storm and screen doors are
specified as hinge left or hinge right, as viewed
from the outside.
EXTERIOR DOOR
INSTALLATION DETAILS
Usually it’s easier to prehang a door and then
install the assembly, rather than trying to
assemble the frame in the opening. Most
factory built units are set up and installed like
any prehung door. Your customer will need the
same tools, accessories and installation
materials.
Always sell frames with rabbeted jambs for
exterior doors, not flat jambs with applied stops.
The total jamb width depends on the exterior
finish and trim (see the “Exterior Jamb Width”
figure below). If your customer plans to use
panel siding with 1x4 or 1x6 exterior trim, the
jamb width should equal the total thickness of
the wall from the inside wall surface to the
surface of the siding. If brick mould trim is used,
the jamb should only extend to the outside
sheathing, so the exterior finish material butts
against the brick mould.
EXTERIOR JAMB WIDTH
Your store likely stocks frames in standard
widths. The most common frame is 43/4", but
the width of a jamb can be extended by adding
a strip of wood to the edge, called an extension
jamb. Split jambs are also available for exterior
doors, so the jamb width can be adjusted.
Your customer also will need a sill and
threshold under an exterior door. The sill is a
sloped member running along the bottom of the
unit, that sheds water away from the structure.
It also has to be durable, since it serves as the
step into the house. Aluminum is a common
material, but hardwoods such as oak and ash
are also popular.
Depending on the sill shape, it may be made to
be set on the subfloor or directly over the floor
joists. The top surface of the sill should be even
with the finish floor so you can install a threshold
to seal the underside of the door and cover the
gap between the sill and the floor.
Exterior doors are installed with basic carpentry
tools: hammer, hand saw, drill, measuring tape,
24" level, 6' straightedge, screwdriver, utility
knife and blades. Your customers also will need
hinges (4"x4" for 13/4" doors, or 31/2"x31/2" for
13/8" doors) a 1" bit and a 21/8" hole saw.
The installation materials they’ll need include
shims to plumb the jamb and 31/4" galvanized
finish nails to fasten the jamb to the wall framing.
Also interior casing (2' - 7', 1' - 4') and 2"
finishing nails to apply it, exterior trim and 2"
galvanized finishing nails (unless brick mould is
already applied to the prehung unit), expanding
foam sealant to fill the gap between the jamb
and the wall framing and caulking to seal
between the exterior casing and the siding. If
your customers will prehang the door
themselves, they’ll need 21/2" finishing nails and
wood glue to assemble the jamb.
Door Hardware
Use three butt hinges for doors up to 3/0 wide,
or four hinges for wider doors. Locksets for
exterior doors may require either a 23/8" or a 23/4"
backset (the distance from the edge of the door
to the centre of the hole), but the hole sizes are
the same as interior doors.
For special effects you can get a 5" backset that
will allow a fancy large shield or plate behind the
knob.
You’ll usually sell a keyed entry lock with an
exterior door. Some customers also may want a
deadbolt on the door.
There are two types of deadbolts: s i n g l e
cylinder and double cylinder. Single cylinder
deadbolts are opened with a key from the
outside and a turn button on the inside. Double
cylinder deadbolts must be opened with a key
from either side.
Double cylinder deadbolts are more secure,
naturally, since an intruder can’t break a pane of
glass and reach in to unlock the bolt. But they
also present some danger. To get out of the
house, a key has to be used.
See the Hardware & Fasteners chapter of this
course for more door hardware information.
FINISHING WOOD DOORS
Finishing is an important step in installing doors,
since improper finishing is a leading cause of
door failures. Door manufacturers provide
specific finishing instructions for their wood
doors. Always recommend that your customers
follow those instructions carefully. The
instructions given here are general instructions,
to give you an idea of the steps.
The finishing steps are similar for all doors, but
preparation steps differ. Naturally, any door
should be trimmed and fitted in the frame before
finishing. On a stile-and-rail door, the joints
between the frame members at the top and
bottom are often open. Caulk them with a
quality, paintable caulk. On glazed doors fill any
gaps around the glass with glazing compound.
Sand the door thoroughly with 120 grit sand
paper. Clean and wipe the door with a tack cloth
before applying a finish.
If you plan to stain and varnish the door, first
apply a clear wood sanding sealer. A sanding
sealer fills the grain and helps the stain
penetrate evenly. Follow the instructions on the
can. Be sure to get the top, bottom, edges,
hinge mortises and lock bore thoroughly. Let it
dry several hours, then sand it smooth with 220
grit sandpaper.
There are two types of wood stains: pigment
and dye. Use a pigment stain, especially for
exterior doors since dye stains fade in the
sunlight. The stain will go on slightly lighter over
a sanding sealer than it would over bare wood.
Apply a second coat if you want a deeper colour.
SOME GARAGE DOOR STYLES
After staining, apply at least two coats of varnish
according to the instructions. You can use gloss,
semi-gloss or satin varnish for interior doors.
Always use an exterior varnish for exterior
doors. Apply the varnish heavily on the ends of
the door. Sand between coats with 220 grit
sandpaper.
If you plan to paint, prepare the door the same
as you would for stain and varnish. Then apply a
good quality oil or oil/alkyd-based primer. Be
sure to cover the top, bottom, edges, hinge
mortises and lock bore thoroughly. Then apply
two coats of paint, sanding lightly between coats
with 220 grit sandpaper. An oil-based or latex
satin enamel can be used on interior doors. For
exterior doors, use an exterior trim paint, either
oil-based or latex.
Avoid dark colours on doors that will be exposed
to sunlight. The colour absorbs more heat and
may cause the door to warp. If the door contains
glazing, run the last coat of paint or varnish
slightly onto the glass, to prevent leaks.
GARAGE DOORS
A roll-up garage door has a series of narrow
panels hinged together and fastened with
rollers that follow curved tracks on either side of
the door (as shown in the figure below).
The weight of the panels is counterbalanced
with a spring. Most customers also buy remote
controlled garage door openers. In addition,
manual latches have become an option on
many garage doors.
Garage door panels may
be made of wood,
fibreboard or hardboard,
steel, aluminum or
translucent fibreglass.
Lighter
doors
are
counterbalanced with
tension springs. Heavier
doors require torsion
springs, installed on the
wall directly above the
door.
Tension springs can be installed by most
homeowners, but torsion springs can be very
dangerous. Caution your customers to read
and follow the instructions carefully. If in doubt,
they should install the rest of the assembly and
call a professional installer to mount the torsion
springs.
Sizes
The most common width of a single door is 9',
but 8', 10' and other sizes are available. Double
doors are usually 16' wide, but are also sold in
18' and 19' widths. Standard heights are from
6/6 to 7/0, depending on the manufacturer.
Special 8' doors are available for vans, but most
garages don’t have enough headroom to install
them.
Rough openings vary, but are generally about 3"
wider and 11/2" higher than the door size. Your
customer will need up to 18" headroom above
the door, to install the track and opener, though
special low headroom hardware is available for
tight situations.
A TYPICAL GARAGE DOOR TRACK AND OPENING
Stanley Door Systems
GLOSSARY FOR DOORS
Bevel - Cut at an angle. The latch side of a
door is bevelled at a 5° angle so the door won’t
bind against the jamb when you close it.
Bifold doors - A door unit that consists of either
one or two pairs of doors that fold in half to
open.
Brick mould - Exterior casing specially milled
for use when the exterior finish is brick. Brick
mould is commonly used on factory-built
prehung doors.
Patio door - A two or more panel sliding door
unit with doors that are fully glazed.
Pocket door - A door that rolls on a track
installed inside the wall.
Prehung - A door that is sold already installed in
a jamb.
Rail - The horizontal frame member in a door.
All doors have a top rail and a bottom rail. Doors
may also have a lock rail to increase strength
and allow lockset installation.
Bypassing doors - A door assembly that
consist of two or more doors that slide on a
track.
Sash door - A stile-and-rail door with glazing
between the frame members.
Casing - The trim around a door that covers the
gap between the jamb and the surrounding wall.
Sill - A sloped member that forms the bottom
member of the door-and-frame unit and sheds
water away from the structure.
Finish opening - The dimensions from finished
jamb to finished jamb in width and from finished
jamb to finish floor in height.
Solid-core door - A flush door with a core of
particleboard or solid wood.
Flush door - A door with the frame completely
covered on both sides with a thin skin. The skin
may be wood veneer, hardboard, plastic
laminate or other materials.
French door - A sash door that is mostly glass
with a narrow bottom rail, divided into 5 or more
lites.
Handing - Refers to the direction that the door
swings. The most common handing conventions
are specified by the American National
Standards Institute (ANSI).
Hollow-core door - A flush door with nothing
but lightweight wood or cardboard spacers to
separate the two face skins.
Jamb - The frame around a door. May be flat,
for use with a door stop, rabbeted with a built-in
stop, or manufactured in two pieces (split) so the
width is adjustable. A jamb consist of two parts:
a leg on each side and a head along the top.
Mortise - The process of removing wood from
the edge of the door or jamb so the hinges can
be set flush with the surface.
Panel door - A stile-and-rail door with solid
panels between the frame members. Door
panels may be flat or raised and are typically
made of wood, hardboard or metal.
Steel entry system - A complete door-andframe unit in which the door is manufactured
with a steel frame and skin and a foam core.
The frame may be steel or wood. Steel entry
systems are typically fully weatherstripped and
weatherproofed.
Stile - The vertical frame member in a door.
Stile-and-rail door - A door with an exposed
frame and glazing, panels or screen to fill the
spaces between the frame members.
Stop - A moulding used to stop a swinging door.
Storm door - A lightweight door-and-frame
assembly, usually aluminum, installed over the
primary door to provide extra thermal and
weather protection.
Thermal break - A strip of rigid plastic that
separates the inner and outer parts of a metal
door or jamb, to prevent heat loss.
Threshold - A strip, usually of oak or aluminum,
installed under a door to fill the gap between the
bottom of the door and the floor.
Utility door - A door intended primarily for
garages, sheds or other storage buildings.
CANADIAN IMPERIAL AND METRIC MEASUREMENTS
Canadians generally
measurement units.
use
a
mixture
of
Liquid volumes are typically based on the metric
(SI) system. Temperatures and distances are
commonly specified using metric terminology.
Weights, depending on the type of product, use
either the metric or Canadian Imperial system.
Lengths and dimensions of construction
products, particularly for residential use, are
generally in Canadian Imperial measurements.
Canadian building codes are written using metric
units. But the construction trades, particularly
those in residential construction, typically use
the Canadian Imperial system. This mixture of
measurement systems frequently results in
many product manufacturers providing
information using both systems. Unfortunately,
the approaches used in presenting the
“converted” measurements are not consistent.
Some information is based on “exact”
conversion measurements whereas other
information is based on “rounded”
measurements.
From your perspective and in communicating
with your customer it is important to recognize
that in some instances the exact conversion is
necessary and in other instances a more
“rounded” conversion is appropriate.
CONVERSION FACTORS
1 inch (in.)
1 foot (ft.)
1 yard (yd.)
=
=
=
25.4 mm
0.3048 m
0.9144 m
1 fluid ounce - US (oz.)
1 fluid ounce - Canadian (oz.)
1 gallon - US (gal.)
1 gallon - Canadian (gal.)
=
=
=
=
0.0296 L
0.0284 L
3.785 L
4.546 L
1 ounce - avoirdupois (oz.)
1 pound - avoirdupois (lb.)
=
=
28.35 g
0.454 kg
1 pound per square inch (psi)
1 pound per square foot (psf)
=
=
6.895 kN/m
0.04788 kPa
Celsius temperature = (Fahrenheit temperature - 32) / 1.8
SOME TYPICAL MEASUREMENTS FOR DOOR PRODUCTS
(“rounded” conversions)
in.
1
/8
1
/4
3
/8
1
/2
5
/8
3
/4
7
/8
1
Length
mm
3.2
6.4
9.5
12.7
15.9
19.1
22.2
25.4
in.
2
4
6
8
9
10
12
16
18
24
30
32
36
72
80
Length
mm
50.8
101.6
152.4
203.2
228.6
254.0
304.8
406.4
457.2
609.6
762.0
812.8
914.4
1828.8
2032.0
Length
ft.
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
16
18
19
m
0.610
0.914
1.219
1.524
1.829
2.134
2.438
2.743
3.048
4.877
5.486
5.791
2
HOW TO SELL DOORS
Doors seem much more complex than they
really are. Once you learn about them, it takes a
lot of the mystery away, but the mystery is still
there for your customers. Half of your job is to
learn about doors. The other half is to learn to
explain what you know so your customers
understand how your recommendations fit their
wants and needs.
Style, Durability and Price
To sell effectively, first investigate thoroughly.
Take your time and be curious. Ask open-ended
questions that encourage your customers to tell
you about their projects, their needs and
expectations. Don’t hurry your investigation or
jump to conclusions about what you think they
want.
The overall durability of a door depends partly
on how it is installed and used, of course, but
the most important factor is how the door is
finished. A door is relatively delicate. It has to be
installed so it fits snugly in its frame, yet with
enough space to operate smoothly. With
tolerances of 1/8" or less, it’s critical that a wood
door be completely sealed to protect it from
moisture and sunlight. Be sure to recommend
that your customers follow the manufacturer’s
instructions closely.
The best way to look at doors or any group of
products is from your customer’s point of view.
Thinking about your customer’s needs leads you
to the probing questions you need to ask to get
a clear picture of what features and benefits are
important to your customer. You then gear your
sales presentation to those features and benefits
of interest to that customer, making the best
product recommendation for his or her individual
needs.
Keep in mind that different customers may have
very different ideas of what features provide
those benefits. For example, a key lock and a
chain bolt may be all the security one customer
needs while another may not feel secure with
anything less than a double cylinder deadbolt
and a locking storm door. Different customers
also have different priorities, one customer may
be primarily interested in style, while another is
primarily interested in price. A contractor
developing a housing tract has different needs
than the couple replacing a worn out front door.
But in general, we can divide customer interests
into three broad categories: style, durability and
price. Two other categories: security and energy
efficiency are important to customers buying
exterior doors.
The style your customers choose is mostly a
matter of personal preference. You can make
suggestions, but they should buy something
they like. If a customer asks you for guidelines,
find out about the style of the building where the
doors will be installed and then give a tactful
opinion.
Price is an important issue to any customer in
any sale, but that doesn’t mean that price is the
only issue. For many customers, price becomes
important only after they’ve determined that a
product meets their needs. As a rule, value is
much more important. They want to be sure
they’re buying the right product, first of all and
that they’re paying a competitive price.
Security
Most customers are interested in security and
style and that will influence their choice of doors.
If security is an issue, recommend doors that
have little or no glass, or small panes of glass.
Steer them to solid core flush doors or stile-andrail doors with raised rather than flat panels.
Avoid outswinging doors because the accessible
gap between the door and jamb is an invitation
to a burglar with a crowbar. If the door has a lot
of glass, a double cylinder deadbolt will help, but
be sure to warn your customer to keep a key
near the door in case of fire.
HOW TO SELL DOORS
Concentrate
on
making
the
best
recommendation for your customer and then
offering a fair price. You’ll find that your
customers will usually pay a little more for the
right product rather than spend less for a
product that doesn’t meet their needs.
Selling Effectively
Once you learn the products at your store and
understand how they fit into the range of
products available on the market, you can come
up with questions to ask your customers. Often,
the answers to those questions will lead to other
questions. Don’t forget to ask those questions.
Make notes as you listen, to remind yourself, if
necessary.
When you present your recommendation, don’t
just tell your customers about the product, show
them. If you’re at a display in your store, let them
look and touch. Point out the important features
and the benefits of those features. If you’re
using literature, circle important details, make
notes in the margins and be sure your name is
on that piece of literature.
Remember to ask for the sale. Don’t be subtle,
it’s no secret that you’re in the store to sell
something and they’re in the store to buy
(cont.)
something. If you feel that they have a pretty
good understanding of your recommendation,
ask them to make a decision. If you’re not sure,
take a minute and summarize the features,
explaining how each gives the benefits they
identified as important. Then be clear and direct:
“Can I write this up for you?” “Are you ready to
make a decision today?”
If they hesitate or object, don’t argue. But don’t
give up, either. Instead, clarify. Ask them to give
you a little feedback and explain why they’re not
ready to buy. Listen to the explanation carefully,
then restate the objection to be sure you
understand. Confirm your understanding in a
way that forces them to answer yes or no: “Yes,
that’s my objection,” or “No, that’s not my
objection.” Then, if you have information that
answers their objection, provide it. Then ask for
the sale again.
But remember, the most important thing you do
as a salesperson is listen. Whenever you’re not
sure how to handle a situation, get your
customer talking and then listen. The more
information you get, the better chance you have
of finding just the right product for your customer
and making him or her a satisfied customer.
DOOR PRODUCTS
IN YOUR STORE
“In Your Store” is a worksheet where you apply the knowledge you have learned in this chapter to the products
you stock in your store. You may be able to find the answers on your own, or you may want to ask some of the
people you work with for help. There are no test questions on this information, as the answers vary with location
and local custom.
Do not send these answers in for correcting. This is a worksheet to help you get more familiar with your
store. It becomes a reference tool for you to review when you need a refresher about what your store stocks.
DIRECTIONS: Take your copy of this page from your test package. Fill out the blanks as appropriate for
your situation. Sometimes more or less information could be entered. The object of the exercise is not to fill in
blanks, but to learn more about the products covered in this chapter, as applied to the store you work in. So just
use this exercise as a guide.
List the sizes, thicknesses and face styles or species of all the flush doors stocked at your store.
List the sizes, thicknesses and face styles or species of all the stile-and-rail doors stocked at your store.
List the sizes, thicknesses, jamb type and width of all exterior prehung doors stocked at your store.
List the sizes, thicknesses, jamb type and width of all interior prehung doors stocked at your store.
Write the names of your primary special order door supplier, the name of the salesperson who handles your
store and how much lead time they normally need on special orders.
Write the name of your primary prehung door supplier, the name of the salesperson who handles your store and
how much lead time they normally need on a prehung door order.
Notes:
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
■ The course was first developed by the North American Retail
Hardware Association (NRHA) and the Home Center Institute (HCI)
under the direction of a project coordinator and a number of
authors. Several U.S. based companies provided industry specific
information.
This second Canadian Edition of the ACHR is based on NRHA/HCI’s
14th Edition. It has been extensively modified and rewritten with
the help of Carl R. Wilson & Associates Ltd. (CRWAL) so as to
reflect Canadian products and construction practices. We also
acknowledge the many Canadian organizations and companies
that provided information for this Canadian edition of the
Advanced Course in Hardware Retailing (ACHR) and the Building
Material Product Knowledge Course (BMPK).
Because local codes and regulations vary greatly, you are reminded to check with local experts and authorities on which codes,
regulations and practices apply in your area.
Copyright© 2004 by NRHA. All rights reserved. No part of this
publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or
any system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher.
Though the information in this course is intended to be
accurate and useful, the authors, editors, publishers,
NRHA and CRWAL and their directors, officers, agents
and employees will not be liable for any damage whatsoever that might occur from any use of this material.
NOTE: ALWAYS CONSULT YOUR PROVINCIAL AND LOCAL CODES