Berlin

Transcription

Berlin

Maps Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels
Berlin
June - July 2014
World Cup
Where to watch
the Fußball
Festival season
Parades & Pride,
Volksfest & Fête
inyourpocket.com
N°69 - €1.75
Contents
Transport
5
Getting around by S&U
Sports in Berlin
6
All about Berlin’s top teams
World Cup 2014
7
Where to watch the Fußball
Basics
8
Essential travel tips
Culture & Events
9
Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema
Berlin Mitte
19
The delights of the city centre
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West
32
Genteel western Berlin
Berlin Prenzlauer Berg
42
The gentrified north
Berlin Friedrichshain
46
Worker’s paradise, student’s playground
SYMBOL KEY
Berlin Kreuzberg
T Child friendly
Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
E Live music
River Tours
N No credit cards
M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
Sailing down the Spree
B Outside seating
G Non-smoking room
City Tours
S Take away
R Internet
Guided walks, bike rides and drives
W Wi-Fi
Unterstützt von
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
L Guarded parking
H Conference facilities
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
Dinner price guide
The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, café
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine.
WWW.11FREUNDE.DE/WM-QUARTIER
€€€€ Expensive; more than €30 per person.
€€€ Not cheap; €20-30 per person.
€€ Middling; from €10-20 per person.
Präsentiert von
Unterstützt von
€ Cheap; less than €10 per person.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
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57
58
Maps & Index
Street register
City map
Public transport map
Index
60
61-63
64-65
66
BERLIN BOXES
Scattered throughout the guide you’ll find boxes with
more information about these topics:
Berlin in books
Cold War Berlin
Erasmus Student Network
Hotels in Berlin
Third Reich Berlin
23
40
8
31
41
June - July 2014
3
Foreword
Transport
Eight years ago, in 2006, Germany had the honour of
hosting the World Cup football matches, and what a
nation-changing spectacle it was. This year the tournament
takes place in Brazil, and as the German team has a good
chance of making it quite far, there will be little respite from
football madness in Berlin this summer. On game nights,
expect the bars to be packed with anxious viewers, and the
pavement benches in front of the screens at Kreuzberg’s
Späti all-night shops to be crowded as well.
Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Straße 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
[email protected]
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11.
There’s more fun to be had on Berlin’s streets; in June the huge
Karneval der Kulturen parade rolls through Kreuzberg, and the
Gay Pride festival, Christopher Street Parade and Fête de la
Musique also all take place within a few weeks of each other.
Editorial
Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krüger, Christina Knight
Research Cecilia Engvall, Layout Tomáš Haman,
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner,
Cover © Christian Draghici | Dreamstime.com
Thankfully there are many places to escape the parties,
with Berlin’s parks at their best in June and July, and several
museums putting on excellent exhibitions this year.
Whatever you do this summer, don’t hesitate to email us your
comments and suggestions at [email protected].
Enjoy Berlin.
COVER STORY
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Stephan Krämer
Production Manager Philippe Krüger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krüger,
CoCoMedia ([email protected])
The skyscrapers at Potsdamer
Platz tower over the train station
entrance and the exhibited remains
of the Berlin Wall. It was here that
the border between East and West
Berlin cut right through a formerly
legendary nightlife district. In the
1990s the district was built up
again from scratch, and is a tourist
favourite.
Copyright notice & Editor’s note
Text and photos (unless otherwise stated) copyright pocket
publishing GmbH. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in
any form without written permission from the copyright
owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license
from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
ABOUT IYP
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4
Berlin In Your Pocket
We have come a long way in the 22
years since we published the first In Your
Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania
- so much so that we are today the
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berlin.inyourpocket.com
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great empty
vastness of northeast Germany, it’s very well connected to
the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn and air. Once
in Berlin, you’ll wish that your home town had such good
public transport.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlin’s integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straßenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and you’ll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train
services. Vending machines have instructions in English
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlin’s
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; you’ll only need
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone €2,60, ABC €3,20)
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; it’s cheaper to buy four tickets at once (VierFahrten-Karte, €8,80). Buy a €1,50 Kurzstrecke (short
distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn
stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate
a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid
until 03:00 the next morning; €6,70) or the seven-day
pass (€28,80). Groups of up to five people are best off
with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, €16,20). The
multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (€18,50-38,50) is valid for
transport and some attractions.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket you’ll
be fined €40 on the spot.
BVG
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and
trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.
fahrinfo-berlin.de.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, [email protected],
www.bvg.de.
TAXIS
Berlin’s friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same
day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is €3,40; then up
to 7km it’s €1,79/km, thereafter €1,28/km. Waiting costs €25/
hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke
tarriff; €4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio.
CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
WÜRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01,
www.wuerfelfunk.de.
CYCLING
As long as it’s dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
by bicycle. It’s a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
may take a while, though for €1,60 you can take your bike
on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
places, most charging €10-12 per day. The urban bike
trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and
cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.
CITY CARDS
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
to travel around town a lot and see more than one
museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
and youths may get better reductions at museums
using their student ID cards.
BERLIN WELCOMECARD
The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
Potsdam and Schönefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
hours (AB €18,50, ABC €20,50), 72 hours (€25,50/27,50)
or 5 days (€32,50/37,50). There’s also a 72-hour variety
(€38,50/40,50) that includes free admission to the five
Museumsinsel museums. Cards are sold online and from
BVG ticket machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels
and kiosks. The similar CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.
com) is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club
discounts geared towards younger travellers: 48 hours
(AB €16,90, ABC €18,90), 72 hours (€23,90/25,90) or
5 days (€30,90/35,90).Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
50 museums, including the permanent collections of
the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
with the Berlin Museum Pass (€24/12, valid three days).
It’s for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online.
Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
June - July 2014
5
Sports in Berlin
6
World Cup 2014
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports
– the city has no less than six professional sports teams,
playing five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC
Union play football, the Eisbären is an ace ice hockey team,
Alba is Berlin’s renowned basketball club, the Füchse play
handball, and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys.
Their home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to
Berlin’s stadiums. Despite being rivals, the six professional
sports collaborate to improve the circumstances for
professional sports in Berlin, promoting Berlin’s image as an
international sports event destination. This summer there
are few home matches until August; keep an eye on the
club websites and check the excellent English-language
ticket booking site www.eventimsports.de for tickets.
ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)
The ‘Albatrosse’, Berlin’s basketball
club is Germany’s most successful,
and has the largest fanbase. Since
going pro in 1991, Alba has won
the German League 8 times and
the German Cup 7 times, and
was also the first German team to
win an international title. Alba plays home at the O2
World stadium in June; there are 5 remaining possible
matches, maybe in Berlin, on 8, 11, 14/15, 18/19 and
21/22 June.QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49
1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets €8-65.
1 June, 18:30: Artland Dragons
5 June, 19:30 (possible): Artland Dragons
FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)
FC Union is the working
man’s football team for
Berlin, originating in East
Berlin in 1966 and a feared
counterpart for the GDR’s state-influenced Dynamo
club. Union is still fiercely independent, based in their
charming An der Alten Försterei stadium. The club has
resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem sung by
punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium uniquely
partly owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed Eisern Union
(iron union), it had a tough time in the 1990s, but has had
more success in the national competitions since the early
2000s.QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten
Försterei), Köpenick, MS Köpenick, tel. +49 30 656 68
80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets €14-43.
BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
Berlin’s professional volleyball
team originates in the western
district of Charlottenburg, but
plays home matches at the
Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR Volleys
have been particularly successful since the late 1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title five times, including in
2013 under trainer Mark Lebedew - during that final over
8,500 spectators were present, breaking the national record
for match attendance.QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12,
www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets €13-16.
FÜCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)
“The foxes’, Berlin’s handball team,
is part of an old West Berlin sports
club, and now plays home matches in Prenzlauer Berg’s famous
Max-Schmeling-Halle, named after
the German boxing legend who
was world champion heavyweight
between 1930-32. The Füchse compete in Germany’s
Handball Liga and the European Champions League.
QG-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets €12-50.
EISBÄREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)
Originating in 1953 in East Germany’s
Dynamo sports club, the ‘polar bears’
is Berlin’s popular professional ice
hockey team. They have won the
national Deutsche Eishockey Liga
7 times, more than any other team,
most recently in 2013 under Canadian
coach Jeff Tomlinson. They also bagged the European
Trophy in 2010; unfortunately they were not as lucky in
the 2013/2014 season. But their home matches at the
O2 Stadium are true family fests, with plenty of young
fans packing the seats, and a festive, good-humoured
atmosphere.QI-4, Mildred-Harnack-Straße (O2 World),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30
97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets €18-46.
HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)
Berlin’s main football team
plays home matches at the
impressive Olympiastadion,
Germany’s second largest stadium which was built for
the 1936 Olympic Games and renovated for the 2006
World Cup. Hertha competes in the national Bundesliga
and internationally in the UEFA Cup and Uefa Championships League. Hertha dates back to 1892 and is know
as the ‘Alte Dame’, the old dame, witnessing its glory
years between 1926 and 1931 when it reached the
German Championship finals 6 times, winning it twice.
Nowadays Hertha’s fortunes are mixed, but the fan base
remains loyal.QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion), Charlottenburg, MS5 Olympiastadion, tel. +49
1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets €15-89.
For many Germans, the football World Cup, taking place
in Brazil from 12 June until 13 July, is the event of the year,
and if you're in Berlin during this period it'll be hard to
escape the football mania. Most of the 64 Weltmeisterschaft
matches kick off between 18:00 and midnight German
time, with a few starting at 03:00. besides the screens
in the official fan zones, hundreds of restaurants, bars
and clubs will be showing the matches - and Berlin may
well be the best place in Europe to watch as its liberal
licensing policy means that plenty of bars are open late
at night. They're so serious about it that the government
has even made a legal exemption to allow noisy open-air
screenings after 22:00.
magazine screens all 64 matches on one large screen
and several smaller ones. There's place for 3500 people,
and still the view of the screens is excellent as seating
is on steep stands, like in a stadium. In between the
on-screen action, there are interviews and discussions,
mainly in German. But what makes the 11 Freunde
event great is the small festival organised alongside,
with live performances by bands from Berlin and the
competing countries, films, lectures, discussions,
exhibitions, street art and light art installations.
Admission is free.QPostbahnhof am Ostbahnhof,
Straße der Pariser Kommune 3, www.11freunde.de/
wm-quartier.
Germany plays against Portugal on 16 June at 18:00, against
Ghana on 21 June at 21:00, and against the USA on 26 June
at 18:00. Optimistically assuming that Germany comes out
as the group winner, further possible match dates are on 30
June and 4, 8 and 13 July. The full schedule can be found
at www.fifa.com/worldcup/matches. During the final,
on 13 July at 21:00, you can expect Germany to come to a
complete standstill if they're still in the game by then.
ARENA
Large indoor and outdoor screens showing all World
Cup matches can be found at the Arena, where there's
the additional attraction of a beach bar and a floating
swimming pool. Admission to the viewing area is free.
QEichenstrasse 4, www.arena-berlin.de.
GERMANY’S CHANCES
Although it’s clear that every Brazilian on the planet is sure
that Brazil will end up holding the copa at the end of the
tournament, Germany also stands a reasonable chance of
taking it home. Coach Joachim ‘Jogi’ Löw has a good squad
lined up, including star players like Miroslav Klose, Bastian
Schweinsteiger, Mesut Özil and the Berlin-born Jerome
Boateng. Germany came close with a second place in the
2002 World Cup, and in recent years local clubs Bayern
München and Borussia Dortmund have done well. With
some expecting Germany to fly through to the finals,
others are convinced that they’ll quickly fly out after being
thrashed in the group stage by Team USA.
WHERE TO WATCH
THE FUßBALL
Germans love getting together to watch their team play
so much, that they even invented the English term 'PublicViewing' for it. With many wonderful spots to watch the
action outside, there's no reason to sit in your hotel room
peering at the tiny flatscreen above the bathroom door.
FANMEILE BRANDENBURGER TOR
The official 'Fanmeile' at Brandenburger Tor is Berlin's
biggest football viewing spot; with 7 huge screens, dozens
of food and beer stands and live music, it's expected to
attract hundreds of thousands of fans. Germany's three
group matches will be shown, as well as all games from the
second round onwards. The grounds open these days from
13:00 until 01:00 and admission is free.
11 FREUNDE WM-QUARTIER
True football fans head to the Postbahnhof, a former
station next to Ostbahnhof, where the 11 Freunde
LIDO
Together with the Kreuzberg radio station FluxFM, the Lido
club screens all matches (except 15 June) inside the main
hall and in their Biergarten – where there's a barbecue
as well as beer. Admission free.QCuvrystraße 7, www.
lido-berlin.de.
EMMAUSKIRCHE CHURCH
Berlin's wackiest football screening takes place in
Kreuzberg's Emmaus church, where three matches will
be beamed onto the wall behind the altar. The sound
is switched off, and instead of commentary, silent film
organist Stephan von Bothmer plays the church organ
to match the action in Brazil. Admission is free, drinks
are available.Q13 June (Spain-Netherlands) 21:00, 28
June & 5 July 22:00. Emmauskirche, Lausitzer Platz,
www.emmaus.de.
FC MAGNET BAR
A legendary football bar in Mitte, the Magnet has several
rooms and outdoor seating with half a dozen screens.
This world cup, they're serving special country-themed
finger food at each match.QVeteranenstraße 26,
www.fcmagnetbar.de
OTHER PUB SCREENINGS
Many pubs across Berlin screen the football matches with
English commentary; here are a few central ones.
IRISH HARPQGiesebrechtstrasse 15, Charlottenburg,
www.harp-pub.de.
KILKENNY IRISH PUBQAm Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte,
www.kilkenny-pub.de.
THE LIR IRISH BARQFlensburger Strasse, Tiergarten,
www.thelir.de
June - July 2014
7
Basics
Culture & Events
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlin’s territory: 900 square kilometers
CRIME & SAFETY
Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty
crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom
occur in Berlin’s touristed central areas.
ELECTRICITY
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and
many hotels will have them at the front desk too.
ERASMUS STUDENT
NETWORK
How do international students get to meet locals
and the city during an academic exchange? The
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student
associations in Europe. It was developed to help
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
8
MONEY
Germany uses the euro (€). Banknotes come in denominations of €5, €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500. Coins,
whose design depends on in which country they were
minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents and €1 and €2. Credit and debit card payment is
possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.
VISAS AND ENTRY
FORMALITIES
EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
registration at a Bürgeramt office is officially required for stays
more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that there’s no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European ‘Schengen’ countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
CLIMATE
30
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Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
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Nov Dec
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Rainfall (mm)
Min Temp (°C)
OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC
DEUTSCHE OPER
West Berlin’s 1960s opera building with its excellent
acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances.
Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB-3,
Bismarckstraße 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche
Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.
de. Tickets from €16.
KOMISCHE OPER
Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the
building’s monumental neo-baroque main hall survived
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF-3,
Behrenstraße 55, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets €9150.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Französischer Dom
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlin’s most spectacular
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821,
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a
concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
de. Tickets €10-99.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboim’s award-winning
Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
Unter den Linden are completed.QC-3, Bismarckstraße
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49
30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets €14220.
Classical
Masterpieces
Italy as Prussia‘s guest
Every Wednesday, Friday and Saturday
Dinner: 18:00
Concert: 20:30
tel. 030-258 10 35-0
www.concerts-berlin.com
SHOWS
Rainfall (mm)
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlin’s local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weiße, is only really palatable ‘mit Schuss’, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (‘kloob mah-tea’) ice tea,
made with extract of the South American maté plant, caffeine
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to
just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Temperature °C
DRINKS & ALCOHOL
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres and
halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets - and an
annual cultural budget of over €900 million to fund it all.
Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of matches
played year-round.
Max Temp (°C)
ADMIRALSPALAST
This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlin’s roaring 20s.
Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a
private box so that he could watch his favourite operetta
‘The Merry Widow’, and Brecht tried out his new theatre
here from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on
plays, concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 101,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99,
www.admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets
€21-79.
June - July 2014
9
Culture & Events
CINEMAS
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin
or look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for
subtitled films; these are marked in with OmU or
OmengU (original version with German/English
subtitles) and OF or OV (original version); DF means
German version.
BABYLON MITTE
A 1920s filmhouse with a great program, but beware
of dubbed films. The building itself is a example of New
Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent
films accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG-2, RosaLuxemburg-Straße 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de.
Tickets €7.
CENTRAL KINO
Art-house films and mini film fests take place in
this small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a
scruffy courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 39,
Mitte, MS Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59
99 73, www.kino-central.de. Tickets €6,50, Tue,
Wed €5,50.
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL
CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original
cinema has Germany’s widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version.
QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
www.cinestar.de. Tickets €6-13.
HACKESCHE HÖFE
Mainly shows foreign films in their original language.
QG-2, Rosenthaler Straße 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.
org. Tickets €8; Mon, Tue €6,50.
FILM FESTIVALS
Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festivals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
3-8 June: Recontres Internationales, Haus der
Kulturen der Welt, art-action.org
6-10 June: 48 Hour Film Project, various locations,
48hourfilm.com/en/berlin
8-13 July: Fashion Film Festival, various locations,
berlinfashionfilmfestival.net
10 Berlin In Your Pocket
Culture & Events
BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTE
The Berliner Residenz Orchestra plays famous Baroque-era works by candlelight, with musicians in
period costumes - a unique
opportunity to get a good
idea of what it was like to
attend a party in the 18th century. Guests can combine
the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg castle or a trip
on the river Spree, and dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB-3, Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg,
MS Westend, tel. +49 30 526 81 96 96, www.concertsberlin.com. Dinner 18:00, concert 20:30. Tickets €2979.
BLUE MAN GROUP
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually
and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as
it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly
revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE4, Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de.
Shows Tue, Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun
18:00. Tickets from €69.
the free portable translator device (book in advance),
international visitors can follow the spoken scenes too.
‘Behind the horizon’ is an East-West love story set in
Berlin: a West German rock singer falls for an East Berlin
beauty, who spies on him for the Stasi in order to save
her brother. Years later, in a reunited Germany, they piece
together their history.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1
(Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz), MPotsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.stage-entertainment.
de. Shows 19:00, Fri 20:00, Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30.
Mon closed. Tickets €38-97.
BERLINER RESIDENZ
CONCERTS
Enjoy classical concerts and a festive dinner in royal
surroundings. Baroque-era culinary delicacies and
musical masterpieces are combined in the magical
surroundings of the extravagant former summer
residence of the Hohenzollern dynasty.
June 18,25,28;
July 2,4,5,9,11,12,16,18,19,23,25,26,30:
“Masterpieces of the 17th and 18th centuries, by Bach,
Händel, Mozart, Vivaldi and Frederick the Great and his
court composers.”
BERLINER RESIDENZ KONZERTE
QSpandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, tel. +49
30 25 81 03 50, www.concerts-berlin.com.
IF YOU HAVEN’T SEEN IT
YOU HAVEN’T SEEN BERLIN.
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT
Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in
Berlin, the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests
for an evening in their elegant year-round tent in
Tiergarten park. Before the show starts, gourmet food
is served. Then it’s over to the artists featured that night
to entertain the audience.QE-3, Große Querallee,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50,
www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00.
Tickets €15-45.
THE BERLIN-MUSICAL
WINTERGARTEN:
MOZART & MADNESS
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST
No one does over-the-top better than the producers and
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast.
This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest
revues in town.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 107, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.showpalace.eu. Tickets €18-106.
HINTERM HORIZONT
The musical based on the songs of German rock legend
Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using
PR E SEN T ED BY S TAG E EN T ER TA INMEN T IN
C OOPER AT ION W I T H S T. PAU L I T HE AT ER
© Jonathan F. Kromer
Until 9 June, the Wintergarten’s “Breakin’ Mozart” show
combines variety performances and classical music,
this time adding the unlikely element of breakdancing.
Besides whirling dance shows, there’s diabolo wizardry,
partner acrobatics, hand-on-hand acrobatics, Chinese
poles and human beatboxer Robeat. Mozart’s music is
performed live in both orchestra versions and modern
hip hop adaptations.
From 16 July until 5 October, the new “Sheer Madness”
show blends acrobatics, dance and live music to
narrate the story of bright imagination and joy of
living in dark times. The story is about a glitzy Mr von
Röhm who’s put in the madhouse and meets strange
characters there, whom he teaches to use their skills
for performing in his new revue show. To get a ticket
to a new future in America, they must stage their best,
freakiest, most colourful and wonderful show ever.
WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉQPotsdamer Straße
96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58
84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.
WITH HITS BY UDO LINDENBERG.
Stage Theater am Potsdamer Platz
www.musicals.de
WINTERGARTEN VARIÉTÉ
One of Berlin’s famed variety theatres was revived here
as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, you’ll enjoy a
show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more.
Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are
served during the break. New shows are put on several
times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 96, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfürstenstraße, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.
wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun
18:00. Tickets €25-60.
THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE
Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. There’s
lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language;
it’s getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some
theatres.
Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance
company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.
de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.
ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN
Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not,
come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the
little black box’s stage.QF-5, Fidicinstraße 40, Kreuzberg,
MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@
etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets €14-18.
June - July 2014
11
Culture & Events
FIRST WORLD WAR
Culture & Events
HALLE TANZBÜHNE
A monumental school gym, used for excellent modern
dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.QG1, Eberswalder Straße 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halletanz-berlin.de. Tickets €15.
Poker
HEBBEL AM UFER (HAU)
Three small theatres (the others at Stresemannstraße 29
and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform experimental theatre
(often in English or mute) and dance.QF-4, Hallesches
Ufer 32, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 259
00 40, www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Tickets €11-18.
English soldiers as prisoners of war, France April 1917
© Stiftung Deutsches Historisches Museum
19141918: THE FIRST WORLD WAR
Until 30 November.
Characterised as the “seminal catastrophe” of the
20th century, nine million soldiers and almost
six million civilians died in the First World War,
the first industrialised, total war in history. It
changed not only subsequent armed conflicts,
but also influenced political thought and action
for many years to come. The German Historical
Museum’s special exhibition offers a multifaceted
overview of the war as well as its prerequisites and
consequences, and approaches this previously
unknown escalation of violence from a broad
perspective. It takes 14 salient places as points of
departure, battlefields such as Verdun, Tannenberg
or Gallipoli, but also political-cultural centres like
Petrograd and Berlin as well as occupied cities
and regions, including Brussels and Galicia. All
of the places point to overriding developments:
the modernisation of war technology with its
disastrous consequences for the people, the
worldwide wartime economy, the global escalation
of the fighting as well as the totalisation of the war,
which not only affected the soldiers on the fronts,
but also mobilised the entire population.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUMQUnter
den Linden 2, Mitte, MHackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de. Open daily 10:00 - 18:00.
ASK THE CONCIERGE
Berlin’s top hotels all have concierges that are there
to make the guest’s lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
of their jackets.
Bl ack Jack
Spielbank-berlin.de
+49-(0)30-255 99 0
Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1
10785 Berlin
Open daily 11am - 5am
Guest must be 18 or over
and show a valid ID card..
Please remember to
gamble Responsibly.
RADIALSYSTEM V
A fantastic theatre, dance and music venue in an old
pumping station along the Spree river. There’s a restaurant
and café too.QH-4, Holzmarktstraße 33, Friedrichshain,
MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 288 78 85 88, www.
radialsystem.de. Tickets €5-41.
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department
stores) and online.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also
at Karl-Liebknecht-Straße 13, Mitte.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzberg’s Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pickup.QH-4, Oranienstraße 29, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-language service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.
papagena.de.
Slotm achines
There are many ways to
spend a night in Berlin.
But spending an Evening
at its Casino could be an
unforgettable one.
KOOKABURRA
Laughing matters at Berlin’s premier comedy club,
which has English-language stand-up comedy with Kim
Eustace every first Tuesday of the month, the interactive
ComedySportz show every second Tue & Sat, burlesque
with Jack Woodhead every third Tue & Sat and an open mic
every first Sat.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 184, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 48 62 31
86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets €8-10.
EVENT TICKETS
R oulet t e
Events
CLASSICAL MUSIC
10 June, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin
Conductor: Lahav Shani; Works by Mahler
PH
6 June, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker
Conductor: Semyon Bychkov; Works by Strauss and Schubert
PH
11 June, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Strauss
PH
7 June, 16:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Herbert Blomstedt; Works by Mozart and
Bruckner
PH
12 June, 20:00
Conductor: Gustavo Dudamel; Works by Birtwistle and Mahler
PH
8 June, 19:00
Don Giovanni, opera by Mozart
DO
9 June, 19:00
Romeo and Juliet, ballet
DO
9 June, 20:00
Junges Ensemble Berlin - Sinfonieorchester
Conductor: Michael Riedel; Works by Beethoven and
Prokofiev
PH
13 June, 20:00
Guy Braunstein, Zvi Plesser, Sunwook Kim
Franz Schubert Piano Trio No. 1 & 2
PH
14 June, 20:00
Neubrandenburger Philharmonie
Conductor: S. Malzew; Works by Martucci, Chopin and Beethoven
PH
16 June, 20:00
Klassische Konzerte der Deutschen Oper Berlin
Conductor: Donald Runnicles; Werther (concertante)
PH
June - July 2014
13
Culture & Events
FÊTE DE LA MUSIQUE
Culture & Events
DALÍ EXHIBITION DISCOUNT
KARNEVAL DER KULTUREN
The high-quality catalogue of the Dali Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz has 44 pages of text about Dalí’s life
and work, and details of the specific artworks in the
exhibition, plus 40 detailed large-format illustrations.
One of Berlin’s biggest and best street festivals,
the ‘carnival of cultures’ celebrates the diversity on
people, cultures and lifestyles in Berlin. Held from
6-9 June, it consists of two parts. There’s a festival
around Hallesches Tor in Kreuzberg, with stages, live
music, dancing and plenty of stands selling food and
drinks. The main event however is the huge parade of
music associations, cultural groups and clubs through
Kreuzberg on Sunday 8 June. This kicks off at 12:30 from
Hermannplatz, snaking west towards Mehringdamm
where it ends around 21:00. It consists of 82 groups, and
a total of 5300 participants; up to 700,000 spectators
are expected. Along the route, Turkish stallholders sell
traditional food and cheap, potent caipirinha cocktails,
and residents hold wild balcony parties. Several clubs
participate with trucks piled high with booming
loudspeakers – it’s a good tradition to simply join the
a moving rave party if you like the music. Families can
best stand along Hasenheide where it’s least hectic. For
more information see www.karneval-berlin.de.
Until 31 July 2014, readers of Berlin In Your Pocket
can purchase the book for €14,95 instead of €19,95 on
presentation of this guidebook (for ticket-holders of the
exhibition only; may not be combined with other offers).
17 June, 20:00
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
Conductor: Kurt Masur; Works by Mendelssohn Bartholdy
PH
Trus’me
This annual celebration of midsummer’s night was
initiated in Paris in 1982, but meanwhile has spread
over the world. On Saturday 21 June 2014, Berlin’s
streets, theatres, clubs and churches are the stage for
dozens of free contemporary music performances;
expect everything from punk rock, accordion orchestras
and jazz to Latino and classical choirs. During the day
there are open-air stages in all districts, while at night
the party continues indoors as the “Fête de la Nuit”.
Check the programme for the overwhelming number
of shows – or just randomly select some places and be
surprised.
The famed Tresor club in Mitte opens at 23:00, with DJs
Trus’me, Marc Miroir, Magda El Bayoumi and resident
DJ Powerhouse Handmade. Downstairs there’s deep
house with Esther Duijn, Get Serious and Mareena.
The stage at the newly reopened White Trash Fast Food
at Am Flutgraben 2 in Treptow kicks off at 17:00 with
Rock’n’Roll by the Horny Tunes Ballroom Orchestra,
followed by psychedelic rock by Tree, Rock’n’Roll
by Wedge, blues rock by Bubba Ho-Tep and more
Rock’n’Roll by Flash Future; Stephen Paul Taylor MCs the
day with his Dirty Synthipop One-Man-Show. At night,
their Pornrocker Party Special features polkarock by A
Pony Named Olga and DJ The Shredder.
FETE DE LA MUSIQUE
Q21 June, various locations, admission free, www.
fetedelamusique.de.
TRESOR
QH-4, Köpenicker Straße 70, www.tresorberlin.com
WHITE TRASH FAST FOOD
QI-5, Am Flutgraben 2, www.whitetrashfastfood.com
18 June, 20:00
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Ives, Strauss and
Brahms
PH
20 June, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Lisa
Batiashvili (violin)
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev; Works by Britten, Shostakovitch
and Brahms
PH
It amounted to a minor revolutionary act: over a century
ago the Deutsche Oper was founded in Charlottenburg
as a clear alternative to the venerable Hofoper on Unter
den Linden. With more than 2,000 seats, it was larger
than any other theatre in Berlin and it also dispensed
with boxes, reflecting the ethos of a “democratic” opera
house, in which all visitors had an unimpeded view of
the stage.
Today as then the excellent visibility and acoustics
provide the framework for evening after evening of
superb musical and theatrical performances with
their principal conductor Donald Runnicles. Now all
performances at the Deutsche Oper have German and
English surtitles on a screen above the stage, as a third
of the audiences are foreigners, many of them Englishspeakers.
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLINQBismarckstraße 35,
tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
Tickets €10-122.
NOW MORE WOW!
The new BLUE MAN GROUP in
Berlin with even more fun, even
more action and simply EVEN
MORE WOW:
Since their European premiere
10 years ago they have also been
astounding and captivating audience of all ages in Berlin. To mark
this anniversary the three founders from New York have created a show for Berlin, the
likes of which the world has never seen, combining impressive show elements, new songs and the popular
classics. The new BLUE MAN GROUP is therefore even
more intensive, even more innovative and even more
interactive. Discover this indescribable dimension of
live entertainment at the Stage BLUEMAX Theater am
Potsdamer Platz. An absolute must for every Berliner
and tourists from all over the world.
BLUE MAN GROUP, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 4,
Stage BLUEMAX Theater, Tel. +49 (0) 3871 2115 530,
www.bluemangroup.de/international
Daily shows except for on Mondays. Tickets from € 55,90.
CONCERTS
9 June, 20:00
Aerosmith (Rock)
O2
10 June, 20:00
Rolling Stones (Rock)
WB
ENGLISH TITLES
AT THE DEUTSCHE OPER
BLUE MAN GROUP
DALÍ EXHIBITION
17 June, 19:00
Billy Idol (Rock)
ZS
18 June, 19:00
Arcade Fire (Indie Rock)
KI
20 June, 19:00
Lana del Rey (Pop)
ZS
23 June, 20:00
Blondie (Rock)
TD
24 June, 19:30
Rod Steward (Rock)
O2
26 June, 19:00
Pearl Jam (Rock)
KI
© DaliBerlin.de
With over 450 exhibits, the new museum and cultural
highlight ‘Dalí - The Exhibition at Potsdamer Platz’ offers
the most complete overview of Dalí’s virtuous and experimental mastery in almost all art techniques, right here in
the heart of Berlin. As Dalí once said: “Come into my brain”.
In keeping with this spirit ’Surrealism for all’, visitors to Berlin now have the chance to discover ‘their Dalí’.
DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER
PLATZQLeipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MPotsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.
de. Open 12:00-20:00, Sun & holidays 10:00-20:00.
Admission €11, reduced €9.
June - July 2014
15
Culture & Events
Culture & Events
Gala Concerts
in the Marble Hall of
the Zwinger
Light Classics in perfection
Fri, Sat, Sun at 17:00
Until 7 July
Ai Weiwei – Evidence
Ai Weiwei is a megastar in the western art world. The
Martin-Gropius-Bau shows the biggest single exhibition
ever by the contemporary Chinese artist, with new
works as well as many that have never been exhibited
in Germany before. The exhibition includes conceptual
art, performance, music, photography and installations.
His poetry is often political, but also reveals cultural and
historical references.
MG
Until 10 August
David Bowie - Retrospective
After living here for several years in the late 1970s, David
tel. +49 351 41886230
www.concerts-dresden.com
WALTZING DOWN TO
DRESDEN
16 July, 20:00
Natalie Cole (Singer/Songwriter)
AD
25 July, 19:00
Backstreet Boys (Pop)
WB
EXHIBITIONS
Until 29 June
Marsden Hartley: The German paintings 1913–1915
The American avnat garde painter Marsden Hartley (18771943) lived and worked in Europe from 1913 to 1915.
Although he stayed in Paris and Munich as well, it was in
Berlin where he painted his most impressive works, several
of them inspired by the military parades held on Unter den
Linden. His work ‘Portrait of a German Officer’ (1914), which
refers to Prussian Officer Karl von Freybourg who died just
months after the outbreak of war and whom Hartley had a
relationship, is at the centre of the exhibition.
TRADE FAIRS
27-29 June
YOU 2014 Youth fair
www.you.de
MB
8-10 July
Bread & Butter Fashion fair
www.breadandbutter.com
FT
SUITABLE FOR INTERNATIONAL VISITORS
sheer
bit.ly/wigaweb
D E R
HE L L E
berlinesque
W
# wigawahnsinn
WA HN S INN
artistic
W
revue
VENUE LIST BERLIN
AD – ADMIRALSPALAST, Friedrichstraße 101-102,
tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.
DO – DEUTSCHE OPER, Bismarckstraße 35, tel.
+49 700 67 37 23 75 46, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
presented by
FT – FLUGHAFEN TEMPELHOF, Platz der
Luftbrücke.
5 July, 20:00
Massive Attack (Trip Hop)
TD
10 July, 20:00
Chicago (Jazz Rock)
AD
Bowie is back in Berlin. The excellent Victoria and Albert
Museum exhibition travels to the Martin-Gropius-Bau for a
few months this summer. The multi-media retrospective is
a comprehensive audio-visual exhibition experience with
plenty of music and 300 objects, including handwritten
lyrics, original costumes, set designs and instruments
providing insight into the versatility and well as the
eventful life of this pop and style icon.
MG
Dresden, just 2 hours by direct IC train from Berlin, is
a grand city to visit for the amazing views of the Elbe
river from the Brühlsche Terrasse, for the Semperoper
opera house, and the reconstructed Frauenkirche and
Neumarkt Square. But it’s at the Zwinger, a magnificent
rococo palace, where Violinist Igor Malinovsky and
his orchestra will whisk the audience away on an
exploration of triple-time waltz classics.
Their glamorous ‘Gala concert’ present classic hits, waltz
dreams and operetta melodies by Mozart and Johann
Strauss. The ‘Italian nights’ concerts feature the most
beautiful arias by Verdi and Puccini, while Vivaldi’s Four
Seasons is also regularly on the programme – check the
website for the latest details.
This summer, concerts are held on June 1, 6, 7, 8, 9,
13, 14, 15, 20, 21*, 22, 27, 28*, 29; July 4*, 5, 6, 11, 12,
13*, 18, 19, 20, 25, 26**, 27. All concerts start at 17:00;
* dates have an additional evening concert at 19:30;
** on 26 July the concert is held outside at 20:00.
DRESDNER RESIDENZ KONZERTE
[email protected], tel. +49 351 41 88
62 30, [email protected], www.concertsdresden.com. Tickets €35.
KI – KINDL-BÜHNE WUHLHEIDE, An der
Wuhlheide 187, tel. +49 30 530 79 530,
www.wuhlheide.de.
MB – MESSE BERLIN, Messedamm 22, tel. +49 30
303 80, www.messe-berlin.de.
MG – MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU,
Niederkirchnerstraße 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60,
www.gropiusbau.de.
16 July – 5 October 2014
Wed – Sat 20:00 · Sun 18:00 · Tickets from € 32
Starring: Jack Woodhead , David Pereira,
Sarah Bowden, Rummelsnuff
www.apunktmpunkt.de · Foto: ©Robert Pater
For more events go to
live soul variety show
NA – NEUE NATIONALGALERIE, Potsdamer
Straße 50, tel. +49 30 266 26 51,
www.neue-nationalgalerie.de.
O2 – O2 WORLD, Mühlenstraße 12-30, tel. +49 30
20 60 70 80, www.o2world.de.
PH – PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Straße
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
TD – TEMPODROM, Möckernstraße 10, tel. +49 30
69 53 38 85, www.tempodrom.de.
WB – WALDBÜHNE, Glockenturmstraße 1,
www.waldbuehne-berlin.de.
ZS – ZITADELLE SPANDAU, Am Juliusturm 64, tel.
+49 30 354 94 40, www.zitadelle-spandau.de.
4
Only on 13 September 201
Kindl-Bühne Wuhlheide
Tickets 25,00 € including VBB Ticket ABC
plus advance booking fee
Potsdamer Straße 96, D -10785 Berlin Tiergarten
Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 or just print your
tickets at home: www.wintergarten-berlin.de
June - July 2014
17
Culture & Events
Getting there
Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof
station, central for the city but not really close to anything.
S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west
of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line
takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.
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DEUTSCH-AMERIKANISCHES VOLKSFEST
Q25 July - 17 August. Festplatz Heidestraße 30,
www.deutsch-amerikanisches-volksfest.de. Open
Mon-Tue 14:00-22:00, Wed-Thu 14:00-23:00, Fri-Sat
14:00-23:30, Sun 12:00-23:00. Admission €2, under
12 free. There’s a free shuttle bus from the northern
side of Hauptbahnhof station.
er
arz
chw eg
W
.
tstr
ors
If that’s not enough, the festival funfair has 100 stands
and attractions, with a roller coaster, a Ferris wheel,
bumper cars, carousel and entertainment for small
children. Every Wednesday is Family Day, with halfprice offers on many rides.
E
zer
erit
Döb Str.
lly-Brandt-Str.
The festival is centred around fun, food and sun; there’s
a large sandy beach area with a cocktail bar, and stands
selling American snacks such as hamburgers, hot dogs,
American beer, drinks and Berlin-made Florida Eis ice
cream. The stage has live music every day, featuring
everything from rock ‘n roll and country to big band
swing music and pop, and there’s a dance floor to
try out those line-dance moves. Highlight this year is
the native American band Clan Destine from Phoenix
Arizona, with the Hoop-Dancing world champion
Tony Duncan; they perform several times between
25 June and 2 August; check the website for the full
programme.
tonWashinrg
st
IRISH HARP
Just one minute off Kurfürstendamm, the Irish Harp
Pub is a haven for music and sports fans alike. Two
bars, a cozy ambience, four large TVs and two big
screens provide the setting for a great night out, or an
afternoon full of excitement and entertainment while
following international football, rugby and other sports,
or playing a round of darts.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße
15, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30
22 32 87 35, [email protected], www.harp-pub.de.
Open from 10:00. €-€€. EBW
r.
The Allied Museum has a special exhibition with
historical photos of the American presence in Berlin,
and the Volksfest over the decades.
Since reunification, the old city centre district Mitte
(meaning ‘middle’) has rightly snatched back the title of
most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical
monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally
humbler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel
area allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard
gallery to sidewalk café. Only traces are left of the Jewish
community that lived here from the late 17th century,
welcomed by the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm.
Pots
A great West-Berlin tradition may be coming to an
end, as the 54th Deutsch-Amerikanisches Volksfest
taking place over three weeks between 25 July and 17
August may be the last one. During the Cold War era,
the annual festival was a particularly important way
for the Americans to present their culture to ordinary
Berliners; more recently it attracts up to half a million
Berliners every year.
Chr
© Scantinbental
W
Pocket Walk
Start off at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before
heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer
Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the
adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstraße for
the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north
along Friedrichstraße and turn right at Mohrenstraße for
Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den
Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and
Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Straße, and pass
through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche
Höfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Straße
for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here
back to Brandenburger Tor.
ustr.
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
Fun & football, a drink or two and a bite to eat go hand
in hand. And if that’s what you’re after, the Kilkenny Irish
Pub is where you find it. Watch all major sport events,
Champions League, Premier League, Formula One etc.
on large screens, together with locals and tourists from
all over the world.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84,
[email protected], www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open
from 10:00. EGBW
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Elector’s hunting grounds in the
1600s. Traffic passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around
the Siegessäule victory column. The Straße des 17. Juni
leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the
state museums of the Kulturforum and the Potsdamer Platz
district with its soaring corporate buildings.
GERMAN-AMERICAN
VOLKSFEST
nbijo
WHERE TO WATCH SPORTS
Mitte
June - July 2014
19
Mitte
Restaurants & Cafés
GERMAN
ALPENSTUECK
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad,
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF-2, Gartenstraße 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS
JOSEPH ROTH DIELE
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same
people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next
door to Joseph. It’s named after a prolific Jewish writer
whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby in
the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of Berlin’s
nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious Flammkuchen
pies are served, and it’s a great place for a beer or wine
after a show at the Wintergarten Varieté, opposite.QE-4,
Potsdamer Straße 75, Tiergarten, MU Kurfürstenstraße,
tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.joseph-roth-diele.de. Open
10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. TENGBSW
MUTTER HOPPE
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. You’ll find the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers
sides not served at other German restaurants, including
green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try
their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further
towards the Spree.QG-3, Rathausstraße 21, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.
prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30 - 24:00. €€.
TEGB
RESTAURATION 1840
Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this
traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden
1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840
creations, including local favourites such as Sülze (cold
knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage.
There are good seasonal wines, and the bar staff can
shake up a great cocktail.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@
berlin-1840.de, www.berlin-1840.de. Open 09:00 24:00. EGBW
SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
Mitte
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth)
and Schnitzel.QF-3, Tucholskystraße 48, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.
schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€.
TUNBS
ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille,
whose illustrations line the walls above upholstered
banquettes and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu
are typical Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade
(beaf-stuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00 - 22:00. €€. E
ASIAN
KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai soup
is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the curries are
rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 69, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97, www.
kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. AB
MONSIEUR VUONG
Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
restaurant in Mitte. There are only five dishes and two daily
specials, but they’re so delicious you’ll be ordering a second
bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gói
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. You’ll have to fight
the über-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesn’t take
reservations.QG-2, Alte Schönhauser Straße 46, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €. S
FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlin’s best places to eat, Aigner is truly international,
as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate
from a famous Viennese café that closed in the 1980s.
Master chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve awardwinning dishes with ingredients sourced fresh from the
market.QF-3, Französische Straße 25, Mitte, MU
Französiche Straße, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.
aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€.
TUGBSW
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didn’t have to invest much to make a good
first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
building’s original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a different menu each day to keep its
TRAUBE BERLIN
Reinhardtstr. 33
10117 Berlin
Tel.: +49 (0)30 27 87 93 93
Fax: +49 (0)30 27 87 93 95
www.traube-berlin.de
[email protected]
GOURMET
Paris-Moskau
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Französische
Straße 47, Mitte, MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. €€€. GB
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotel’s Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant,
chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare
using only fresh, local products direct from the market.
The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty
vegetables and exotic herbs. Facil’s design is a post-modern,
glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that
retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de.
Open . Closed Sat, Sun Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. €€€€. UGBW h
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurant’s name comes from a tongue-twister and
the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined palate.
Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars
that appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef first
trained in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as
those at The Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei
(as a private chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep
carpets and a fireplace.QF-3, Charlottenstraße 49, Mitte,
MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.
fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00.
€€€€. PAG hh
PARIS-MOSKAU
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
positioned between new government offices and hotels.
Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, there’s a
lunch menu as well.QE-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00 - 24:00. €€€. A
Öffnungszeiten/Open from
Mo.-Fr. 12:00-15:00 Uhr
Mo.-Sa. 18:00-23:00 Uhr
CONNECTION
www.paris-moskau.de
[email protected]
PARIS-MOSKAU
Alt-Moabit 141
10557 Berlin
Tel.: +49 (0)30 394 20 81
Fax: +49 (0)30 394 26 02
Öffnungszeiten/Open from
Mo.-Fr. 12:00-15:00 Uhr
Mo.-So. ab 18:00 Uhr
INDIAN
AAPKA
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz, Aapka
offers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You can
drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the young
Prenzl’ Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by later for
cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94, www.aapka.
de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. €€. B
INTERNATIONAL
NOLA’S AM WEINBERG
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace,
which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of
St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order
meals until midnight.QG-2, Veteranenstraße 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.
nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBS
REINHARD’S
Reinhard’s friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table
in no time, or if you’re here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3,
Poststraße 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstraße, tel. +49 30 242
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00. €€-€€€.
TGBS
June - July 2014
21
Mitte
Mitte
Nightlife
FOOD WITH A VIEW
CAFÉS
KÄFER DACHGARTEN
When time is money, you may as well spend it on a
good meal while visiting the Reichstag dome. Make
a reservation to be whisked up to your meal and a
180-degree view of eastern Berlin. German specialities
are highlighted and a regional name appears in most
main course listings. Last orders are taken at 21:30.
Bring ID to get into the buidling.QF-3, Platz der
Republik 1,Tiergarten, MS/U Brandenburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 22 62 99 33, www.feinkost-kaefer.de.
Open 09:00 - 10:15, 12:00-16:30, 18:30-24:00. €€€.
AB
BARCOMI’S DELI
Barcomi’s is well known for its house-roasted coffee and
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
meringue cake, devil’s food cake, pecan pie and other
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly
cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there
are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg
Kaffeerösterei outlet (Bergmannstraße 21) has fresh coffee.
QF-5, Sophienstraße 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, [email protected], www.
barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. €.
TGBS
PANORAMA CAFÉ
The 1930s-style café at
the top of the popular
Potsdamer Platz viewing
point has large windows
and an open terrace
with great views over
Berlin, and serves coffee,
cakes and other snacks.
QE-4, Potsdamer Platz
1, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar
11:00-17:00. Tower admission €6,50/5, family ticket
€15,50.
SPHERE
The TV tower’s rotating restaurant at 207 metres
gives you a spin around the city in 30 minutes. Soups,
salads and light meals accompany your city tour, with
attractive daily specials often the best choice. Do
make reservations, or wait for a table while circling the
observation level.QG-3, Panoramastraße 1a, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 247 57 58 75,
www.tv-turm.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€€. E
TRAUBE
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, ‘The
Grape’ serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland and
Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose
their own menus, with or without wines. The two-course
set lunch menu is great value.QF-2, Reinhardtstraße 33,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93,
www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:45,
Sat 18:00 - 23:45. Closed Sun. €€€. TGB
More reviews online:
DIGITAL EATERY
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsoft’s very
first café showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy
spot to recharge. Browse the small but excellent
selection of pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the
counter (€8,90 including drink), or the soup, paninis
and cakes. Recharge your electronic devices with the
cables provided, or use the free wifi. Best of all are
the digital toys that allow you to go online, try out
Microsoft products or play Xbox games. There’s no
sales, but the staff is happy to demonstrate hardware
and software.QF-3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel.
+49 30 39 09 70, www.microsoft-berlin.de. Open
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
W
SANKT OBERHOLZ
A large two-floor café overlooking the busy street
crossing. Something of a public workspace for IT
entrepreneurs from the surrounding Silicon Allee
internet startups, it’s the ideal place to crack open a
Mac and get some work done using the free wifi and
electricity plugs. Or just come for the coffee, bagels,
muffins and New York cheesecake.QG-2, Rosenthaler
Straße 72a, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30
24 08 55 86, www.sanktoberholz.de. Open 08:00 24:00, Fri 08:00 - 03:00, Sat 09:00 - 03:00, Sun 09:00
- 24:00. GW
SOPHIENECK
A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck
is one of the most charming cafés in Mitte. Located
near Hackescher Markt since the revamp of the
district in 1984, it has resisted trendification, staying
true to its warm mishmash decor of art nouveau and
poster art. The menu offers delicious Central European
fare, accompanied by an international wine list.
QG-2/3, Große Hamburger Straße 37, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstraße, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.
sophieneck-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 02:00.
BARS
AUFSTURZ
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable
and the place looks good, with changing modern art
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger
Straße haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 67, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Straße, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07,
[email protected], www.aufsturz.de. Open from
12:00. EB
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RÜMSCHRÜMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a
stage, plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters
intent on having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor
cinema in the back yard shows foreign films in original
version.QG-3, Rosenthaler Straße 39, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, [email protected], www.
eschschloraque.de. Open 14:00 - open end Open from
14:00. ENBW
MEIN HAUS AM SEE
It’s all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the
‘My Lake House’ makes it very easy with its large slope of
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture
lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
it’s a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
the menu are drinks, exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot
choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG-
BACK TO SCHOOL
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. It’s the
watering hole for adult students from all around the
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. They’re greatly helped by
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89
27, www.gls-berlin.de.
BERLIN IN BOOKS
GDR PHOTOGRAPHY
It’s increasingly hard to imagine
life in the GDR; the country
that formally ceased to exist in
1990, as since then its society,
landscapes and city streets have
often changed beyond recognition. Photography books like
Harald Hauswald’s “Ferner Osten – Die letzten Jahre der
DDR” (‘Far East – the last years of the GDR’) help us get
an idea of what it looked like. Hauswald takes us from
Berlin to neglected towns and small villages across the
GDR of 1986-1990, showing beautifully composed images of children, workers, Communist parades, streets
in Prenzlauer Berg, the Ostsee coast, as well as images from Berlin’s alternative art and punk scene – and
just a glimpse of the Berlin Wall. What makes this book
special is the use of colour photography, made possible by Hausmann’s semi-legal work for West German
magazines, adding to the realism of the photos when
most GDR photography is monochrome. Captions are
in German.
‘Ferner Osten – Die letzten Jahre der DDR’ (Lehmstedt 2013, ISBN 9783942473507) by Harald Hauswald
is for sale for around €30 at Dussmann, and can be ordered at any other bookshop.
2, Brunnenstraße 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz,
tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, [email protected],
www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
Open 24/7. €. TUENGBSW
REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Mann’s forlorn offspring,
Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though
it often has a DJ, no one dances here. It’s a setting for
making stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF2, Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel.
+49 30 28 38 76 76, [email protected], www.reingold.de.
Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
CLUBS
KAFFEE BURGER
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scene’s smoke and its stuck-inthe-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir
Kaminer’s wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings
like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with
DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
QG-2, Torstraße 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz,
tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open
from 21:00. E
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Mitte
CASINO
SPIELBANK BERLIN
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
a tour including game instructions.QE-4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de. Open
11:00 - 05:00. Admission €2,50. Minimum age is 18,
ID required; dress code is smart casual.
WEEK-END CLUB
A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th floor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
agency specialising in saying ‘no’) on the corner of OttoBraun-Straße.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open ThuSat 23:00-04:00.
DANCING
CLÄRCHENS BALLHAUS
Dating back to 1913 and exactly 100 years old this
autumn, the legendary Clärchens Ballhaus is a proudly
old-fashioned kind of place. Originally catering to
ordinary working-class Berliners, Clärchens is the last
proper dance hall in Berlin, and welcomes people from
across the world. Cross the front terrace (the house
originally here was bombed) and enter the hall that
hasn’t changed much since it opened. On the menu
there’s excellent pizza and German comfort food. After
dinner, there’s dancing: salsa on Monday, tango on
Tuesday, swing on Wednesday, chacha and waltz on
Thursday and Sunday afternoon, and a raucous live
band on Friday and Saturday. Recommended.QF/G-2,
Auguststraße 24, Mitte, MS Oranienburger Straße,
tel. +49 30 282 92 95, www.ballhaus.de. Open 11:00
- 02:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 04:00. Admission free, Fri/Sat
from 20:00 €5. B
Mitte
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
BRANDENBURGER TOR
Berlin’s landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the
goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torchlit marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and
then the Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in
for decades. Berliners celebrated the Wall’s fall in 1989 by
standing on it in front of the gate, and after renovations
the gate is the proud focus point of the renewed square
again.QF-3, Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger
Tor.
GENDARMENMARKT
Twin cathedrals-turned-museums (dating to the early
1700s), the Konzerthaus (from 1818, by Carl Langhans)
and a row of luxury hotels make up this classic square. The
name stems from the mid-1700s when military regiments
were stationed here.QF-3, Markgrafenstraße, Mitte, MU
Französische Straße.
NEUE SYNAGOGE
The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance
the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, first
on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
in Germany. A subtle but effective sound installation adds
to the experience.QF-3, Oranienburger Straße 28-30,
Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct
until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat
closed. Admission €3,50/3.
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlin’s tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter, whose only
truly medieval-looking building today is the Nikolaikirche.
The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt along with the
entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlin’s 750th birthday
in the area in which the fishermen’s settlement first began.
No one was trying to outdo Walt Disney here, and many
of the buildings have the simple, concrete facades that
the GDR government could afford. The small shops in the
area mostly deal in toys and souvenirs and tourists gladly
fill the sunny tables at the restaurants that face the river.
On Rathausstraße, there’s a row of restaurants that flaunt
old-fashioned Berlin cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt
historic buildings in the area date to the 1700s, such as the
Ephraim-Palais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing
exhibits related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Klosterstraße, www.stadtmuseum.de.
POTSDAMER PLATZ
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings
were demolished to make way for the Wall’s death strip.
Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
The most popular public space and architectural attraction
is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most
people associate Germany’s neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on fire
just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting
the building’s history circle the rim above the parliament
PUBS
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt
S-Bahn station offer more than enough space for natives
and tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle,
party and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens
make sure that you won’t miss a single goal. Irish and
German beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow
freely.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, mail@
kilkenny-pub.de, www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from
10:00. EGBW
Kilkenny Irish Pub
Soda Club
Soda
Club
House - Rń´B - Soul
Danceclassics - electro
KulturBrauerei
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. It’s best to book an entry
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the
road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.
CHURCHES
BERLINER DOM
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up
to the dome’s rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side
exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3, Am Lustgarten,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36,
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission €7/4.
June - July 2014
25
Mitte
Mitte
DEUTSCHER DOM
The baroque ‘German Church’ from 1701 was completed
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so tragically
in the last century. Be sure to see the views from the windows
and the impressive building models on the top floor. Free
tours in English are possible throughout the day; no booking
is required for individual visitors.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt
1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
FRANZÖSISCHER DOM
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkt’s
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and similarly
to its counterpart was badly damaged in the war. It now has
regular concerts in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche
church to the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot
museum (in German and French only), dedicated to the
thousands of French protestants who moved to Berlin in
the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads to the viewing
balcony at 40 metres above street level, with great views all
around.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte,
tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de.
Open 12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed
Mon. Admission €2/1, viewing balcony €2.50/1.
MEMORIALS
FÜHRERBUNKER
No educational historic plaques mark the site where Hitler
committed suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of
his life, Hitler lived roughly eight meters below ground in
an air-raid shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced
concrete ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by
walking to the end of In den Ministergärten, off Ebertstraße.
A parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment
complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off
during the complex’s construction in 1988-89. The bunker
was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind
the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstraße.QF-3, In den
Ministergärten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
OF EUROPE
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
serves as Germany’s national memorial to those victims.
The design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a
field of 2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height,
creating an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks.
The memorial has an undergound information centre
which is not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-BerlinerStraße 1, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26
39 43 36, [email protected], www.
stiftung-denkmal.de. Information centre open 10:0020:00, Oct-Mar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.QF4, Friedrichstraße 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35 71, info@
bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission
€5/3,50.
DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
According to the myth, currywurst is Berlin’s very own
fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became
popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
found at train stations and street corners across the city.
This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
culinary creation. There’s a shop with sausage accessories
and you can taste currywurst too.QF-4, Schützenstraße
70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.
currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
€11/8,50, Mon 20% less.
DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN
Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war
building on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the
Daimler company’s art collection is presented in four
EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR
Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstraße 47 / corner Zimmerstraße | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors’ service [email protected]
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de
HERE, CONTEMPORARY HISTORY COMES ALIVE
Schützenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte
(Nähe Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com
Anfahrt | Directions
U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)
EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM
ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.
TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.
well-curated exhibitions per year. The collection has
mainly abstract artworks from the 20th century until
now, and a few of the larger sculptures are on permanent
display in the streets around the museum.QE-4, Alte
Potsdamer Straße 5, Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14
20, www.sammlung.daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00.
Admission free.
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for
several more open-air exhibitions.QF-2, Bernauer Straße
111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467
98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.
berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00,
Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition
open 24hrs). Admission free.
DALÍ - THE EXHIBITION AT POTSDAMER PLATZ
The Spanish master of surreal, Salvador Dalí, left a rich
heritage of amazing artworks when he went to moltenwatch land himself. Over 450 exhibits can be viewed at
this permanent exhibition near Postdamer Platz. See true
genius and craftsmanship in the many paintings, sketches,
books, films, objects, and documents that are on show
here. English-language tours can be booked in advance.
QF-4, Leipziger Platz 7, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 700 32 54 23 75 46, www.daliberlin.de. Open
12:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €11/9, tours
€6.
GEMÄLDEGALERIE
Berlin’s largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works
spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters
include Dürer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians
are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch
rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the world’s
largest Rembrandt collection.QE-4, Matthäikirchplatz 8,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42
42 42, [email protected], www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. Admission
€8/€4.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
The former imperial arsenal - a pretty, pink, early 18th
century building by the Spree - houses the impressive
German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main
building give excellent insight into what makes Germany
tick, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in the
dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an
audio tour set for €3 or join the English-language highlights
tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF-3, Unter den Linden 2,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.
dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission €8/4. Under 18
free.
GEDENKSTÄTTE BERLINER MAUER
(BERLIN WALL MEMORIAL)
The excellent national memorial site for the divided
Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin
Wall’s history in text, slides and dramatic film footage.
An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk
behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear
wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked
in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
MICROSOFT CENTER
The very first publicly accessible Microsoft Center in
the world was opened on Berlin’s Unter den Linden
boulevard last year. The historical 1902 Carlton Hotel
building with its great architectural details (try to spot
the cats and mice around the side door!) is now the
most plugged-in building in the street. The Digital Eatery
café on the ground floor (see the review elsewhere in
this guide) has more than just good food and drinks –
visitors can use the free wifi, recharge their devices and
try out a range of Microsoft products, both hardware
and software, with staff at hand to answer questions.
The atrium behind the café is used for meetings,
performances and parties, while upstairs corporate
clients are wowed in the meeting room with 360°
video walls. Microsoft also has offices and a ‘Microsoft
Ventures Accelerator’ for startups in the building.
MICROSOFT CENTER BERLIN
QUnter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel. +49 30 39 09 70,
www.microsoft-berlin.de. Café open 09:00 - 19:00,
Thu 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
June - July 2014
27
Mitte
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE
Cézanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann
are some of the artists whose works hang around
this museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like
structure itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by
a beautifully battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestraße
1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42
42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
ALTES MUSEUM
This neoclassic building by Prussia’s star architect
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG-3, Am
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30
266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €10/5.
NEUES MUSEUM
Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
in 2009, the ‘New Museum’ is new again and is full of
ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds
from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that
were considered to be ‘degenerate art’ by the Nazis.
QG-3, Bodestraße 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.
PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon has the best of Berlin’s classical antiquities:
the Greek Pergamon Altar, the market gate of Miletus
and the blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way
from Babylon. The Pergamon Altar’s enormous frieze
depicts the battle between the gods and the giants,
with gals like Athena, Aphrodite and Artemis wiping
out their opponents like robed Charlie’s Angels. NearEast antiquities, with an emphasis on Assyria and Iran,
and Islamic art round out the museum’s treasure chest.
The audioguide has an instructive 30-minute highlights
tour.QG-3, Am Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €12/6.
HAMBURGER BAHNHOF
Berlin’s wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
converted train station. It’s well worth a visit by those
curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made
of animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated
by bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol
and Marcel Duchamp are the other familiar stars of
this post-1960s collection.QE-2, Invalidenstraße
50-51, Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49
30 39 78 34 11, [email protected], www.
hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission €10/5.
MUSEUM FÜR FILM UND FERNSEHEN
(FILM AND TV MUSEUM)
Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of
the personalities that gave it glamour and style came
from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre,
directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out
of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo
stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses
of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahl’s shooting
of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda
films will impress ‘seen-that’ film buffs. The museum
ends with special effects and science fiction.QE-4,
Potsdamer Straße 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutschekinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon Admission €6/4,5.
MUSEUM FÜR NATURKUNDE
(NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM)
All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand
collection illustrating the evolution of life as well as the
diversity and beauty of nature. The largest mounted
dinosaur in the world towers over visitors in the main
hall, and elsewhere there’s the aardvarks, the early
20th-century dioramas, meteorites, the most famous
fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird Archaeopteryx
lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla Bobby from
the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstraße 43, Mitte, MU
Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85 91, info@
mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseum-berlin.de.
Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission €6/3,50.
NEUE NATIONALGALERIE
You’d think that the art world had gone to minimalist
extremes when passing Mies van der Rohe’s empty
glass box of a museum; the 20th century treasures are
all underground. The marvellous collection includes
Otto Dix, George Grosz, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky,
Picasso and Leger and many more modern artists.QE4, Potsdamer Straße 50, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €8/4. Temporary
exhibitions extra.
Shopping
DEPARTMENT STORES
ALEXA CENTRE
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafés. There’s a
massive kids’ area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstraße 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
GALERIES LAFAYETTE
The 1990s rebirth of Friedrichstraße wouldn’t have been
possible without this posh French department store.
Architect Jean Nouvel’s building has a fabulous gaping glass
funnel in the centre.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 76-78, Mitte,
MU Französische Straße, tel. +49 30 20 94 80, www.
lafayette-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.
International
museum
MARKETS
KUNST UND NOSTALGIEMARKT
Lining the way to the Pergamon Museum are canal-side
stalls carrying crafts and souvenirs including red-and-green
Ampelmännchen products.QF-3, Am Kupfergraben,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße. Open Sat, Sun 10:00 16:00 Open Sat, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
open daily: mon - sat 12 p.m. - 8 p.m.
sun + holidays 10 a.m. - 8 p.m.
(24th December closed)
Potsdamer Platz
Hotels
entrance:
Leipziger Platz 7
OVER €200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, [email protected],
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles €240 379, 304 doubles €216 - 478, 78 suites €531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
HILTON
Maybe it’s the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants
and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstraße 30, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.
com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles €145 - 345,
doubles €145 - 345, suites €220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
Hômmage á S. Dalí by DaVial
MUSEUMSINSEL
Mitte
Infos: 0700 - 325 423 75** (0700DaliBerlin)
Tickets: www.DaliBerlin.de
(**0,14 € /Min. from a landline, mobile communications vary, max
0,42 € /Min.)|*only in combination with the entrance fee. Cannot
be combinded with other offers. Valid until September, 30th 2014.
With over 450 exhibits from private
collections this permanent exhibition
provides general insight into Dalí’s virtuous
mastery in almost all art techniques,
in Berlin’s lively city centre.
www.DaliBerlin.de
June - July 2014
29
Mitte
Mitte
PANORAMAPUNKT
360° PANORAMIC VIEW EXHIBITION CAFÉ
© Landesarchiv Berlin
WITH THE FASTEST ELEVATOR IN EUROPE
TO THE BEST
VIEWS OF BERLIN
ition
Exhib
Views
lin
of Ber
O
Opening
i h
hours::
Platform: 10:00-20:00
Café: 11:00-19:00
Shorter opening hours during winter
Potsdamer Platz 1
www.panoramapunkt.de
PANORAMAPUNKT
It takes just 20 seconds on Europe’s fastest elevator to
get shot up to Berlin’s best viewpoint, on the 24th and
25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollhoff ’s magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to
New York’s skyscraping glory days but also resembles
the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On the
top floors there’s a short film and an exhibition about
the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square, which
went from a world-class entertainment district to a Walldivided wasteland and back again within a generation.
The café and rooftop terrace offer great close-up views
of Berlin’s highlights: Brandenburger Tor, the Holocaust
memorial, Unter den Linden, the former Wall zone and
Tiergarten park.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Nov-Mar
10:00-18:00. Admission €6,50/5, family ticket €15,50.
HOTEL DE ROME
Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
magnificent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade
the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the bank’s vault
is now a 20-metre pool.QF-3, Behrenstraße 37, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.
[email protected], www.hotelderome.
com. 146 rooms (103 singles €395 - 495, 103 doubles
€395 - 495, 43 suites €595 - 4100).
RITZ-CARLTON
A gilt-edged hotel with superlative services, gourmet
dining and fake marble Corinthian columns lining
a sweeping staircase in the lobby. The classic dark
wooden bar opens with a ceremony every evening at
18:00 and serves over 400 fine fruit brandies.QE/F-4,
Potsdamer Platz 3, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 33 77 77, [email protected], www.
ritzcarlton.com. 302 rooms (singles €250 - 360, doubles
€280 - 440, 40 suites €330 - 5000). Breakfast extra.
PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy
of the Adlon’s marble staircase situated in the lobby, a
round pool, an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler
service.QF-3, Friedrichstraße 158-164, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.
com, www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles
€136 - 350, 273 doubles €136 - 375, suites €379 - 930, 15
junior suites €279 - 565, 1 presidential suite €986 - 1930).
Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
€150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and longterm stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstraße 185190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Straße 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, [email protected], www.themandala.
de. 157 rooms (157 suites €130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
€75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstraße 122) has a garden with a lawn and
HOTELS IN BERLIN
Finding accommodation is not such a problem in
Berlin; the city has hundreds of hotels and thousands
of beds. And in a city this large, every place can call
itself ‘central’. The hotel categories in this guide are
based on the highest double room rack rate price,
but actual prices often depend on the the season and
booking method. Prices include VAT and breakfast
unless mentioned otherwise. Apartment rentals are
booming; renting one for a day or a month is usually
much cheaper than checking into a hotel.
goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2,
Tieckstraße 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30
284 45 50, [email protected], www.honigmond.
de. 24 rooms (singles €95 - 155, doubles €125 - 225).
AG
PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germany’s
third-largest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms
are all renovated and stocked with a coffeemaker and
ironing board. By far the best choice for the directionimpaired.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@
rezidorparkinn.com,
www.parkinn-berlin.com.
1012 rooms (318 singles €89 - 125, 671 doubles
€89 - 125, 23 suites €130 - 185). Breakfast extra.
POARFGKD hhhh
SCANDIC POTSDAMER PLATZ
The large hotel between Potsdamer Platz and lovely
Gleisdreieck Park straddles the handy U2 metro line.
Every floor has a season theme that determines the
look of the halls and the furniture in the comfy rooms.
The staff treats guests in a fresh, informal way, and
the hotel is perfect for disabled travellers, and children. Free wifi.QE-4, Gabriele-Tergit-Promenade
19, Mitte, MU Mendelssohn-Bartholdy-Park,
tel. +49 30 700 77 90, www.scandichotels.com.
561 rooms (doubles from €85, suites from €127).
PTHAULKDCW
MARRIOTT
Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlin’s finest hotels.QE-4, Inge-BeisheimPlatz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22
00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles
€159 - 219, 350 doubles €159 - 219, 9 suites €350 1200, 80 executive room €199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
June - July 2014
31
Charlottenburg & the West
Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down
Kurfürstendamm (Ku’damm) and the setting becomes
more genteel. West Berliners meet in the bars and cafés
branching off Savignyplatz, even if the Szene has moved
east. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. This
chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin: leafy
Wilmersdorf and Schöneberg, the centre of gay Berlin
since the days of Christopher Isherwood’s Berlin Stories.
We’ve also included some nearby venues in Tiergarten
(officially part of Mitte) here.
Getting there
Charlottenburg’s nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof
station, along the main west-east raised city railway and
easily reached from Hauptbahnhof or Spandau. From here’s
it’s a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else hop on
the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstraße or west
down Kurfürstendamm.
Pocket Walk: Charlottenburg
Explore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station.
Walk east past the Zoo to Breitscheidplatz for the ruins
and modern reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial
Church. Stroll further east down Tauentzienstraße for the
KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops, or
head west along Kantstraße to leafy Savignyplatz for calm
cafés and refined dining, or southwest down grand old
Kurfürstendamm for more shopping.
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This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5,
Winterfeldstraße 56, Schöneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. €-€€. UNGBS
BAVARIUM
A Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the
Europa-Center mall by the Gedächtniskirche. Where buxom
waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses
of Löwenbräu, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune
of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4,
Tauentzienstraße 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www.
bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. TUG
KNESE
Alt-Berliner, traditional ‘Old Berlin’ cuisine, is on offer at rustic
Knese. Try the Königsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable
prices. There’s also a selection of international meals and
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some
good South-African wine.QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48,
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. €€. TB
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ZILLEMARKT
It’s easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his
charming portraits of Berlin’s lower classes, stroll in and order a
jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst.
Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner,
and you can down a Zillebräu beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.QC4, Bleibtreustraße 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 881 70 40, [email protected], www.zillemarkt.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB
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sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Oma’s Rote Grütze (a vanilla
pudding with stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel
make up the menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg
cuisine.QD-5, Motzstraße 61, Schöneberg, MU ViktoriaLuise-Platz, tel. +49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_
[email protected], www.schoeneberger-weltlaterne.
de. Open 17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. €. TEB
SCHÖNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern
on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel
variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree,
Paalla
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RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is kept
casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food.
Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed
mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a
selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen.QD-5, Wartburgstraße
54, Schöneberg, MU Eisenacher Straße, tel. +49 30 784 20
59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. €€.
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If ‘downtown’ to you means wide, traffic-filled streets,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings,
then Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in
Berlin. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedächtniskirche church, left
as a ruin after the war, is the nexus of activity; between
it and Zoologischer Garten station, over a billion euros is
being invested in impressive highrises, hotels and offices.
Renger-Patzsch
June - July 2014
33
AUSTRIAN
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owner’s home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
spots.QC-4, Kantstraße 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. €€€. VGB
Suksan
ASIAN
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlin’s shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4,
Ansbacher Straße 4, Schöneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, [email protected], www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
JJ
Zillemarkt
Caféhaus • Restaurant
Over 100 years of
comfort and quality
Traditional German cuisine
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3,
Röntgenstraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. €€. TVGBS
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieter’s
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who
can’t move well after a seven-course meal make a point of
staying at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and
the Far East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on
the menu.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20,
www.palace.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun.
€€€€. G h
HUGOS
The InterContinental’s Michelin-starred French restaurant
on the 14th floor has stunning views across the park
to Potsdamer Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeier’s cuisine is
equally dazzling; expect subtle creations blending fine
flavours in the lightest of dishes.QD-4, Budapester Straße
2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 26
02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de. Open 18:30 - 22:30.
Closed Mon, Sun. €€€€. TUGW h
INTERNATIONAL
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlin’s simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what
began as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers
of an old Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann
still uses French techniques to primp excellent ingredients.
Always on the menu are oysters and a selection of French
cheeses.QC-4, Meinekestraße 7, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmannrestaurants.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00.
€€€. UGB
DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlin’s roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€€. UGB
SUKSAN
Sawatdi Kap – welcome to Suksan. Experience a
temple for Thai food and cooking culture in the
heart of West Berlin, offering varied dishes with
captivating aromas and tasty combinations that
will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness, and
healthy and original ingredients are central to our
dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine.
Under bamboo roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests
in Thai settings. Let us take you on a culinary trip
to the land of smiles.
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in the
aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
1920s building near the Ku’damm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00, www.
duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. €€€-€€€€.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only.
Every day there’s a completely different menu, with European
and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC-4,
Mommsenstraße 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße,
tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. €. NGS
ITALIAN
FRANCUCCI’S
Francucci’s kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
truffles.QB-4, Kurfürstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€€. TVGBSW
LA FORCHETTA
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer,
a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Königsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de, www.la-forchetta-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 24:00. B
LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
the Schaubühne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner Platz 2,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80 69
68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €. TNGBS
Ansbacherstrasse 4
(corner of Kurfürstenstrasse)
tel. 21 01 86 73, www.suksan.de.
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin
TRAVEL FAR.
EAT
AT HOME.
RESTAURANT & COCKTAIL LOUNGE
ORIGINAL
THAI
FOOD
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfürstenstrasse
U-Bhf Wittenbergplatz
Telefon 030.21 01 86 73
Telefax 030.21 01 86 88
www.suksan.de
June - July 2014
35
ZWÖLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business
lunch options offer good value. Also at Georgenstraße 2,
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. €€.
TNGBS
JAPANESE
SACHIKO SUSHI
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town,
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, here’s
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC3, Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
€€. TGBS
MAROOUSH
Refined Egyptian-oriental opulence with a modern
twist and gourmet food. The combined restaurant,
shisha lounge and cocktail bar has a luxurious and
tasteful décor enhancing the equally exotic menu.
Puff on a shisha as you await your meal or come
on Friday or Saturday for ‘dinner and dance’, with
belly-dancers, live music and a party atmosphere.
QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 48, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35,
www.marooush.de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E
CAFE KALWIL
A cosy and straight-friendly café in gay old Schöneberg.
Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. There’s fair trade coffee, quality
teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals
and more.QD-4/5, Motzstraße 30, Schöneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 22:00. €€. ABW
GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone café. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schöneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €€. TUGBS
Nightlife
SPANISH
BARS
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can
weigh up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include
Moorish and Catalan specialities and there’s also tapas if
you just want to snack while watching the boulevard’s
shoppers pass by.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm 203-205,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88
92 65 82, www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 02:00. €€. B
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesn’t take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into things
after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and up, and quite
steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstraße 50, Schöneberg,
MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215 25 15, www.greendoor.
de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 04:00.
CAFÉS
CAFÉ AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and
then renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake.
This café, restaurant and bar serves a breakfast of
champions until 16:00 as well as regional food,
coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food served till 22:00.
QD-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. €€-€€€. TUGB
CAFÉ IM LITERATURHAUS
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you don’t have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers
and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy
rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4,
Fasanenstraße 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße,
tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.
de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. €€.
GB
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstraße. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC-4, Kantstraße 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term
used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and
appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but
still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their
youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner
Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and
a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out
the beer or coffee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian
Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables
abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4,
Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 06:00. €-€€. NBSW
JAZZ CLUBS
A-TRANE
Concerts at 22:00.QBleibtreustraße 1, Charlottenburg,
MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 25 50, [email protected], www.a-trane.de. Open 21:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat
21:00 - 04:00. E
Café im Literaturhaus
June - July 2014
37
UNION JACK
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this
whisky pub is one of Berlin’s first true pubs and continues
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers.
Solid food is available too – home made snacks and and
Walkers crisps.QC-4, Schlüterstraße 15, Charlottenburg,
MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.
unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun
Open from 19:00. Sun closed.
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Schlüterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00
Irish Harp
PUBS
IRISH HARP
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap there’s Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports
events to be beamed on screens, and there’s quiz nights
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special
occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstraße 15, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, mail@
harp-pub.de, www.harp-pub.de. Open from 10:00. €-€€.
EBW
Union Jack
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
German, Irish and international cuisine
Thursdays fun-quiz in German & English
Fridays and Saturdays live music from 21:00
Live sports events on big screens!
See our website for the event calendar
Open daily from 10 am
Giesebrechtstraße 15 // Berlin-Charlottenburg
[email protected] • www.harp-pub.de
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
floating roof whose translucent skin offers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30
25 00 23 22, [email protected], www.
olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00.
Admission €7/5.
SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
(CHARLOTTENBURG PALACE)
The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussia’s
first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
in 1695, today’s version, distinguished by its 505-meter
facade and central tower, took its final form in 1790.
You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49 30
32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar
10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues
closed. Admission €12/8, New Wing €6/5. Photo permit
€3.
Chinese and Japanese painting and calligraphy are
of special interest, as well as Japanese woodcuts.
QTakustraße 40, Zehlendorf, MU Dahlem-Dorf,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission €6/3.
CHURCHES
PARKS AND GARDENS
GEDÄCHTNISKIRCHE
The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlin’s landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germany’s culpability is declared on a
plaque: ‘The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of God’s judgement, which befell our people during the war years.’ The 1895 church was once a symbol of
national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty.
The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for the
amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take place
every week, many of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 218
50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:0019:00.
TIERGARTEN
This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and
waterways is the most genteel of Berlin’s parks, but it’s
still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue,
or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessäule
(Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from
1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout
point in the middle of the park. The park’s café and beer
garden, Café am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.
QC/D/E-3/4.
MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
(US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from
the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135,
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818
19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Wed. Admission free.
MUSEUM FÜR ASIATISCHE KUNST
Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything
from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian
Art museum has an impressive permanent collection
of Indian, Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and
archaeology. Each tradition has its own gallery, and
in the centre, a room dedicated to Buddhist art.
Shopping
BOOKS
BOOKS IN BERLIN
A lovely nook devotedly entirely to English-language
books.QC-4, Goethestraße 69, Charlottenburg, MU
Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30 313 12 33, berlinbook@
aol.com, www.booksinberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 20:00, Sat
10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
SHOPPING CENTRES
BIKINI BERLIN
Opening in early April, the Bikini Berlin ‘concept mall’
promises to be the shopping sensation of the year. Inside
the renovated landmark 1950s building is a set of boutiques
selling everything from fashion, beauty and electronics to
art, plus a supermarket, restaurants and cafes. On the lower
level there are 19 cool pop-up box shops - but perhaps best
of all is the huge terrace with great views across the zoo.
QD-4, Budapester Straße 38-50, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 55 49 64 54, www.
bikiniberlin.de. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00.
Closed Sun Terrace open 24hrs.
June - July 2014
39
COLD WAR BERLIN
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and
the development of two completely separated cities
on both sides of the Wall that ran between them,
has led to huge differences that cannot be erased in
a matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era
are the Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer
Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus
am Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox
Cold War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition,
and the Tränenpalast, the former border crossing
beside Friedrichstraße station. Get insights into
daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and the
Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs.
KAUFHAUS DES WESTENS (KADEWE)
Europe’s largest department store, Berlin’s answer to
Harrod’s has 64 escalators linking seven huge floors,
with two floors devoted completely to gourmet food.
Have oysters at the champagne bar to take the sting
out of your shopping spree.QD-4, Tauentzienstraße
21-24, Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel.
+49 30 212 10, www.kadewe.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:30 - 20:00. Closed
Sun.
Hotels
OVER €200
DAS STUE
The luxurious, family-owned ‘living room’ hotel, set
in the 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an
interesting mix of creatives and business visitors. The
1920s-style bar and many rooms overlook the zoo,
with ostriches and antelopes peering back at you.
The rooms and grand suites are spread across the old
and new wings, adorned with beautiful wooden and
copper details. A small pool can be found in the spa
area, and there’s the first-class Cinco restaurant.QD4, Drakestraße 1, Tiergarten, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80
rooms (70 doubles from €200, 20 suites €290-740).
PHUFGKDCW
HÔTEL CONCORDE BERLIN
The French-run, 11-story Concorde impresses with
sleekly designed rooms with fine woods, contemporary
art and fantastic views from the upper floors. The curved
corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing
bathtubs.QC-4, Augsburger Straße 41, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfürstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90,
[email protected], www.concordehotels.com/concordeberlin. 311 rooms (singles €230 280, doubles €240 - 300, 44 suites €280 - 950). Breakfast
extra.
INTERCONTINENTAL
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
the InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
business solutions. After work, there’s gourmet food at
Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further relaxation
options can be found in the large spa complex, with
several saunas and fitness facilities.QD-4, Budapester
Straße 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer Garten,
tel. +49 30 260 20, [email protected], www.
interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles €165 - 350, 498
doubles €170 - 400, 60 suites €215 - 2500). Breakfast
extra.
PTHAUFLEGBKDCW
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WALDORF ASTORIA
Berlin’s newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies
a prime spot near Kurfürstendamm and the Kadewe
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, it’s decorated in lavish Art Deco style,
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms,
and a café and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library
on the 15th floor with its concierge and great views is a
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers fine dining and 650
wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstraße 28, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from
€250). PHAUFLGKDCwW
KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
- out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
a swank corner of Ku’damm.QC-4, Kurfürstendamm
27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30
88 43 40, [email protected], www.
kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles €265 - 326,
249 doubles €322 - 447, 52 suites €470 - 1800). Breakfast
extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
€150-200
PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak
panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are
large.QD-4, Budapester Straße 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, hotel@
palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles €200
- 300, 191 doubles €225 - 325, 32 suites €325 - 2150).
PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
SAVOY BERLIN
Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once
made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who
knows who you’ll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop
near the clubby Times Bar.QC-4, Fasanenstraße 9-10,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49
30 31 10 30, [email protected], www.hotel-savoy.
com. 125 rooms (45 singles €142 - 222, 62 doubles
€152 - 232, triples €192 - 272, 16 suites €202 - 292).
ARFKD hhhh
SWISSÔTEL BERLIN
Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites
are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When you’re
done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin
beckons. You’ll never want to go home.QC-4, Augsburger
Straße 44, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfürstendamm, tel.
+49 30 22 01 00, [email protected], www.swissotelberlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles €160 - 310, 219
doubles €160 - 310, 14 suites €310 - 480, 11 junior suite
€260 - 410). Breakfast €21. PHARFLGD
hhhhh
BLEIBTREU
It’s hard to tell the hip guests from the hip neighbours that
share the deli and café fronting the boutique-lined street.
The designer rooms operate by remote-control but are
furnished using allergy-friendly, ecological, natural fabrics
and furniture.QC-4, Bleibtreustraße 31, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 47 40, info@bleibtreu.
com, www.bleibtreu.com. 60 rooms (15 singles €115 157, 45 doubles €125 - 182). ARGK
GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
Overlooking
the
Bauhaus
museum
between
Kurfürstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and
impresses with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harry’s
New York Bar and a sizeable spa and fitness centre.QD4, Lützowufer 15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 25 47 80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms
(singles/doubles from €99, 40 suites from €139).
PTHAUFLGKDCW hhhhh
€75-150
BERLIN, BERLIN
Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958
hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of
Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant give
way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety of styles.
There’s live sports action in the bar, while peace can be found
in the summer garden restaurant.QD-4, Lützowplatz 17,
Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50,
[email protected], www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms
(103 singles €100 - 195, 569 doubles €100 - 245, 29
suites €220 - 900). PHARUFLGKD
hhhh
BERLIN PLAZA
The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
and free wi-fi. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
QC-4, Knesebeckstraße 63, Charlottenburg, MU
THIRD REICH BERLIN
Wilhelmstraße, the centre of government in Prussia,
continued to be so under Nazi rule. Between Unter den
Linden and today’s Niederkirchnerstraße, the only nonReich structure in 1936 was the British Embassy, which
still holds its ground today in a modern building. The sole
remaining example of fascist architecture is the former
Reichsluftfahrtministerium (Air Force Ministry) built
in 1935 by Ernst Sagebiehl. The grey building that
once struck fear into the heart of Londoners is now
the Finance Ministry. Hitler’s New Reichs Chancellory
stood on Voßstraße but was demolished after the war.
Not to let the red marble of its obnoxiously long hallway
go to waste, the Russians lined the nearby Mohrenstraße
U-Bahn station with it. The center of Nazi terror was on
Prinz-Albrecht-Straße, today’s Niederkirchnerstraße. The
Topography of Terror exhibit explains the functions of
the various offices – including the SS and Gestapo - that
once occupied the site.
Uhlandstraße, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.
de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles €80 - 150,
doubles €79 - 180, triples €105 - 200). HLGKW
BEST WESTERN PRESIDENT
Huge leather reclining chairs, cosmetic tables and an oldtime clubby lounge make this a smart choice for business
travellers. Besides the restaurant and bar, there’s also a fitness
centre and multifunctional meeting rooms.QD-4, An der
Urania 16-18, Schöneberg, MS/U Wittenbergplatz,
president-hotel.de. 178 rooms (25 singles €79 - 155, 153
doubles €96 - 183, 3 suites €189 - 305). Breakfast extra.
PHARFGKD hhhh
ELLINGTON HOTEL
Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfürstendamm and
named after the American jazz legend, the Ellington’s rooms
have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower
Suites offering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has
regular jazz brunches.QD-4, Nürnberger Straße 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31
50, [email protected], www.ellington-hotel.
com. 285 rooms (singles €108 - 238, doubles €118 - 248,
suites €168 - 428). PJHARUFLK
SYLTER HOF
Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these
suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in
Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket
is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.
QD-3, Kurfürstenstraße 114-116, Schöneberg, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, [email protected], www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80
singles €69 - 120, 40 doubles €99 - 180, 40 suites €129
- 210). HAG hhh
June - July 2014
41
Prenzlauer Berg
Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast of
Mitte, ‘Prenzl’ Berg’ is an old
working-class district in
the former East Berlin that
came through the war
relatively unscathed. After
1989, the cool brigade
pounced on the area, and
houses that were once
home to East German
punks were renovated
in odes to pastel. The
number of wine shops and
young parents pushing
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer
Berg’s best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the
west.
Pocket Walk: Prenzlauer Berg
Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstraße from U-Bahn
station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn
into beautiful Husemannstraße, which was already
restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistraße
where you’ll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead;
enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its
courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Straße
and amble down Lychenerstraße to pretty, café-lined
Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstraße west, turn left
down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn
station to Eberswalder Straße; you’ll soon reach the
popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Straße
with its excellent Wall Memorial.
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FON: (030) 78 00 89 5 -50
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ZANDER
This award-winning restaurant is a fine blend of tradition,
innovation, and casual professionalism. Using mainly
regional products, Zander serves mouth-watering German
and international cuisine and excellent wines in a stylish
and intimate setting. Though zander (pike-perch) is a house
speciality, the perfectly-composed set menus are highly
recommended.QG-2, Kollwitzstraße 50, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 05 76 78, www.
zander-restaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. B
FAST FOOD
KONNOPKE’S IMBISS
The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Straße U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG-1, Schönhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. €.
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill ‘n
chill. Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked
anything from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the
undecided, there’s a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve
into the wine and cocktail menu.QH-1, Pappelallee 36,
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
44 67 54 14, www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 open end.
-
PRENZLAUER
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Modern and light German food on Berlin’s prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder
Straße, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW
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GERMAN
RESTAURATION 1900
Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH-2, Husemannstraße
1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. €-€€. TBSW
PRECISE MYER’S
Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myer’s is an upmarket
private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom
has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Straße
26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
30 44 01 40, [email protected], www.myershotel.
de. 51 rooms (8 singles €75 - 135, 33 doubles €85
- 185, 1 suite €195 - 345, 10 Premium €115 - 265).
HARG
Getting there
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefelderplatz and Eberswalder Straße, close to most attractions.
From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstraße you can use tram
M1 to Eberswalder Straße as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer
Straße and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most convenient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.
GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatz’s gentrification,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
Schröder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made
surprise visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share
the menu; this is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust
Alsatian pizza. The atmosphere is lively and service is
friendly.QH-2, Knaackstraße 37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 442 92 29, [email protected], www.gugelhof.com. Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €€. A
June - July 2014
43
Prenzlauer Berg
ITALIAN
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG-2,
Schönhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB
Prenzlauer Berg
TOURIST INFORMATION
MUSEUMS
PRENZLAUER BERG
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
Prenzlauer Berg’s district tourist information centre
is inside the Kulturbrauerei complex. Staff advise
about events, nightlife, guided tours and sights.QG1/2, Schönhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 44 35 21 70, www.
tic-berlin.de. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZEL’S MIETSHAUS
Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzel’s apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about its
construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid living
conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and Berlin.QH-1,
Dunckerstraße 77, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee,
tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.
de. Open 11:00 - 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission €2/1.
JAPANESE
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd
this five-table joint, but there’s takeout as well. Sake Maki,
California Make and vegetarian items all run about €3. All
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak
English.QH-2, Rykestraße 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. €€.
CAFÉS
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed café. Serving up
coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts,
it’s one of the better spots for people-watching or just
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the
connected shop next door – and the smell of coffee and
fresh flowers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstraße 83,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
‘Noise and Smoke’ is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar
at night together with a variety of artists, students and
young in-crowd. But it’s more than just a café - the adjacent
hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG-1,
Gleimstraße 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schönhauser
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de.
Open 08:00 - 02:00.
Nightlife
SANTIAGO
This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
somewhat dodgy interior – leather sofas and glitzy girl
statues that wouldn’t look out of place in a nightclub
– but manages to get the punters in with a range of
attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy
(before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). There’s an
eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
weekends.QH-2, Wörtherstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
WEINSTEIN
An older crowd savours an evening of conversation
and wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to
help anchor the 40 vintages available by the glass.
There are few better places to try the outstanding
German whites that usually don’t make it out of
the country and there’s also a selection of sherries.
QH-1, Lychener Straße 33, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
[email protected], www.weinstein.eu. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
WOHNZIMMER
If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
would vote to hang out here. The large ‘living room’ is
ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and
GDR-era tables are constantly being shuffled to make
room for the rumpled but attractive crowds. There’s
coffee and pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestraße
6, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
30 445 54 58, www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00
- 04:00.
BARS
CLUBS
AUGUST FENGLER
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there aren’t just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner
Straße 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße,
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of
this otherwise spacious cellar. Don’t miss the mad
monthly drag party with Nina Queer. Like at many
clubs in Berlin, you have to brave the walk down a dark
courtyard.QH-2, Am Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Schillingstraße, tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05,
www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00
- 06:00.
PARKS AND GARDENS
Berlin Helmholtzplatz
Raumerstr. 8, 40301770
www.tausche.de
Berlin Boxhagener Platz
Krossener Str. 19, 34711150
SODA CLUB
In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is
a fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is
played on Thursdays and Sundays (€5, starting off with
a lesson hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays there’s five
dancefloors with electro, crossover, black and dance
classics - girls get in for free until 01:00.QSchönhauser
Allee 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße,
soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu 20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00
- 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00 Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and you’ll eventually find an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you won’t find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG-2, Schönhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstraße, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
MAUERPARK
The immensely popular ‘Wall Park’ has no greenery to speak
of; this is an intensely used piece of former border strip that’s
especially busy on Sundays when it hosts a flea market and the
immensely popular Bearpit Karaoke (every second Sunday from
15:00), where anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a
crowd of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Straße, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Straße, www.mauerpark.info.
Shopping
BOOKS
SHAKESPEARE & SONS
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language
books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH-1,
Raumerstraße 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel.
+49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
FASHION & SHOES
TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Bags with exchangeable flaps in over
100 different designs. Two flaps are
included and various insets equip the
bag to suit any occasion.QH-1,
Raumerstraße 8, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalder Straße, tel. +49
30 40 30 17 70, [email protected],
www.tausche.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
MARKETS
FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative souvenirs
and antiques - it’s all available (though not particularly
cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market. Arrive early
to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Straße 63-64,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Straße, tel. 0176 29 25 00
21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun 09:00-15:00.
June - July 2014
45
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has completely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, graffiti and
leftist students moaning about Touri’s encroaching on their
favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Straße is
full of cafés and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the popular Sunday fleamarket. In the former border zone along the
river, the ‘MediaSpree’ development plans for offices, apartments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many vocal locals who fear they’ll lose public access to the river. This
chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain.
GERMAN
KEULE
Keule, pronounced ‘coy-ler’ and berlinerisch for ‘bro’, is an
authentic corner in an increasingly international district.
It serves regional cuisine classics such as soljanka soup, a
hefty farmer’s breakfast, traditional pork knuckle, cured
smoked pork and berry compote dessert. Later on, there’s
cocktails and sports on the large screen.QSimon-DachStraße 22, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel.
+49 30 22 34 55 01, www.keule-berlin.de. Open from
12:00. €€. AUB
Getting there
From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer
Straße, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From
Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram,
known as the party tram at night.
s
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r A
llee
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tr.
0
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service
– what more does a meat-lover want? There’s a good
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. €. TUNGBS
Gür
tels
tr.
CUPCAKE BERLIN
The very first thing that we learnt to bake together
with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert
snack with its own café dedicated to it. Try ‘The King’
cupcake (with Elvis’ favourite ingredients), the sweet
‘Pretty in Pink’ or any of the other 20-odd creations.
There’s a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup
reib
erha
uer
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GLORY DUCK
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous
new place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with
ginger-mango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other
toppings. Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or
one of the vegetarian options. There’s a good selection of
drinks and Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason
to drop by; the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting
perspective lines, there’s a large harbour scene on one
wall and the toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic
stickers.QI-4, Sonntagstraße 31, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostkreuz, tel. +49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.
de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€.
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Pocket Walk: Friedrichshain
Get off the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Straße; enjoy the city
panorama from the bridge and glance back at the dainty
red-brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge before heading north into
the district. Turn right on Revaler Straße and left on SimonDach-Straße for Friedrichshain’s most touristy stretch of bars
and cafés. A right on Krossener Straße takes you to Boxi,
Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday flea market.
Walk north along Gärtnerstraße and Mainzer Straße to reach
the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it
becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) and turn right onto Friedenstraße
for a stroll and a beer in Volkspark Friedrichshain.
SCHNEEWEISS
Schneeweiß is extremely stylish, very popular, and
very, very white. The delicious Alpine and ‘new German
cuisine’ on the menu here is easily a match for the
chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic
design. This is the place to go if you’re looking for a fullon dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstraße
16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel.
+49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin.
de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. €€.
TGBS
1000 m
Rummelsburger
Glory Duck
THE NEW DUCK IN TOWN
SONNTAGSTR. 31 // BERLIN-FRIEDRICHSHAIN
030 / 63 96 53 31 // gloryduck.de
MON-FRI 12-24 / SAT+SUN 14-24
Cake too.QJ-4, Krossener Straße 12, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 25 76 86
87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
TUVNGBSW
CAFÉS
KAUFBAR
At this homey café you can wash down your chocolate
croissant with either a coffee or carafe of red wine.
Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go:
the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays.
The only thing not for sale in the “Buy Bar” are their board
games.QJ-4, Gärtnerstraße 4, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25, www.
kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed 15:00 24:00. TUNGBSW
MACONDO
Macondo was the setting of García Márquez’ novel 100
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful ‘reading café’.
There’s old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday
market, good coffee and original South American mate tea,
sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI4, Gärtnerstraße 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Straße, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.
de, www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
June - July 2014
47
Friedrichshain
Kreuzberg
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FLOHMARKT AM BOXHAGENER PLATZ
The fleamarket on the Boxi may be the funkiest place
to trawl though junk. There’s everything from 1970s
tape recorders to Polish art posters and second-hand
clothing.QJ-4, Boxhagener Platz, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 162 292 30 66. Open , Sun 10:00
- 18:00 Open Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
enau
st
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Pocket Walk: Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der
Luftbrücke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the
Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards
and walk along genteel Bergmannstraße, perhaps
visiting a café or the market hall, before walking south to
Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof
airport, now a wonderful park.
Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
‘little Istanbul’ to Oranienplatz and follow the park to
the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former
Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre
of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstraße to
café-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn
line to lively Görlitzer Park. From here, go north into
Falckensteinstraße to discover more of Kreuzberg’s street
art, or head south along Ohlauer Straße and across
Landwehrkanal into the trendy ‘Kreuzkölln’ district for
cupcakes and cocktails.
Moritzplatz
U
Wa
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U
Prinzenstr.
Getting there
The Bergmannstraße area is best reached from
Friedrichstraße station on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm,
or at Platz der Luftbrücke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz
and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzkölln bars are
within pubcrawling distance of Schönleinstraße and
Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.
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TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Bags with exchangeable flaps in over 100 different designs.
Two flaps are included and various insets equip the bag to suit
any occasion.QKrossener Straße 19, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Straße, tel. +49 30 34 71 11 50, www.tausche.
de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
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FRITZCLUB
Popular with students and others in their 20s/30s, this
well-run club set inside the former mail station next to
Ostbahnhof has three dancefloors and an outdoor bar.
The music varies nightly depending on the party theme;
everything from 90s, RnB and rock to house and electro.
Unlike other clubs in the area, this is no overhyped favourite
- you can simply expect to have a good time here. Also
known for concerts and other events.QStraße der Pariser
Kommune 8, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49
30 698 12 80, www.fritzclub.com. Open Fri, Sat 23:0004:00. Admission €4-7,50.
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CRACK BELLMER
A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial
RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for
drinking however; there’s film screenings, and a good-sized
space for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the
entrance at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Straße.QI-4,
Revaler Straße 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Straße, www.crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
Closed Mon. UNB
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Wilh
Nightlife
SISYPHOS
A legendary electro, techno and house club in an industrial
setting, far away from the rest of the club scene. Wear mad
clothes, plan to stay the night and just undergo it all. Tram
N°21 from Ostkreuz to the Gustav-Holzmann-Straße stop.
QHauptstraße 15, Lichtenberg, MS Ostkreuz, www.
sisyphos-berlin.net.
str.r.
BERGHAIN
A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything
goes on the main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar
and in the dark rooms of this huge old power plant.
The doorman picks from the queue of hopefuls to
create the right mix, so parties are always varied
and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the
best atmosphere. There are concerts and events on
weekdays too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.
QI-3/4, Am Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain,
MS Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 29 36 02 10, www.
berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 - Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 Mon 09:00. UNGBW
Solm
msstr.
tr.
© Ella Privorozki
SSoollm
msstr
t.
Fritzclub
Thanks to a large Turkish
community and more hippies, anarchists and alternative folks than you can
shake a bong at, Kreuzberg
feels neither east nor west.
It was the black sheep of
West Berlin, literally cornered up against the death
strip and left alone to play
loud music and draw on
the walls. By now, the protesting students of 1968
have grown grey alongside
the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987, Kreuzberg
relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional May
Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into a
long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise,
Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and
it’s all about backgammon at the men’s clubs, café-sitting
along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular Oranienstraße and Bergmannstraße drags.
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors
in summer, and the upcoming Neukölln district. Here,
the Kreuzkölln area around Reuterstraße is increasingly
attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird
nightlife spots.
W
June - July 2014
49
Kreuzberg
ASIAN
KIMCHI PRINCESS
Though this is not Berlin’s first Korean restaurant, Kimchi
Princess is being hailed by the capital’s gourmets as the first
one to serve authentic dishes – that is, not drowned in cream
and sauce like most Asian food here. It’s indeed excellent and
spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to find a free table in the
evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Straße 36, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02 03, www.kimchiprincess.com.
Open 18:00 - 01:00. €€. TUGBSW
SAROD’S
Kreuzberg’s friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options
on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat
with roast rice, coriander and spices). There’s a good
selection of wines too.QFriesenstraße 22, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.
sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€.
TGBSW
Kreuzberg
PAGODE
Simply one of the best
Thai restaurants in town.
It feels crowded, steamy
and noisy, but that’s just
part of the authentic selfservice atmosphere; wait
till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open
kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown
in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. There’s
seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF-5, Bergmannstraße
88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 24:00. €. VBS
sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is served until 17:00, so take
your time for brunch. Reservations recommended.QH-4,
Muskauer Straße 1, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:30 - 24:00. €€. GB
JOLESCH
Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner of
Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant, is
named after ‘Tante Jolesch’, a Viennese auntie who loved to
cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well as dishes like
goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, chopped-up pancakes with
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves a
fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope), amongst
seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes with
roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and simple,
while the calm summer terrace in the garden overlooks
a historic apartment complex for Prussian officers.QF-5,
Hagelbergerstraße 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de.
Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. €€-€€€. TGBSW
Sarod’s
Jolesch
AUSTRIAN
Thai restaurant
Friesenstraße 22
tel. 69 50 73 33
www.sarods.de
FAST FOOD
BERGMANN CURRY
A friendly fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat
balls and more. The menus include
the upmarket ‘Rockefella’ dish
(served on porcelain, with a glass
of champagne), and there’s vegan
wurst and burgers, and sweet potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot
chilli sauce from the bottles on the ‘board of pain’.QBergmannstraße 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmanncurry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
Glück To Go
GLÜCK TO GO
This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to
India’s Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious
protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic
spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with
organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious
Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date
chutney, and there’s three other burgers to choose from.
Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus
from €6-8,50.QF-5, Friesenstraße 26, Kreuzberg, MU
Gneisenaustraße, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-togo.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 20:00. €. B
ITALIAN
GORGONZOLA CLUB
An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
carpaccio we’ve had, and with lovely seating in the green
outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are
additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner
cocktails simply go next door to the Würgeengel bar.QH4, Dresdener Straße 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor,
tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. €. B
Open daily 12:00-24:00
Sundays from 14:00
traditional healthy Thai cuisine
fresh and dainty
June - July 2014
51
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
CAFÉS
Osteria N°1
OSTERIA N°1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a fantastic
Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive trees. Classic
regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from different parts of
Italy, and everything is made fresh to order. Order a pasta
with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange sauce. Perhaps
the most child-friendly place in town, too. Choose from six
different lunch menus from €7.QF-5, Kreuzbergstraße 71,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 786 91 62,
www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. B
VICOLO BERGMANN
Tasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the
sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and
vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas
or the meat and fish dishes, and there’s home-made bread
too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed
bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Don’t miss the
sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstraße 88,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88,
[email protected], www.vicolo-bergmann.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€.
CAFÉ AM ENGELBECKEN
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michael’s
church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was
once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond
is a sunny terrace café. View of the water and the rustling
tall green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things
city while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can
you believe this area was once filled with rubble, and part
of the Wall’s death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and
they offer a choice of cocktails.QH-4, Michaelkirchplatz,
Mitte, MU Heinrich-Heine-Straße, tel. +49 157 88 94 70
91, www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
€. TUNGBSW
KUCHENKAISER
A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since 1866,
the “cake emperor” is famous for its cakes and tarts, which were
sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New York in the 1920s.
The restaurant also has a wide variety of German specialities
and international dishes. There’s a great choice of breakfasts,
a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch on Sundays. A mustsee in Berlin.QG/H-4, Oranienplatz 11-13, Kreuzberg, MU
Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26 97, www.kuchenkaiser.de.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. €€. B
Fantastic Berliner
ner
e Currywurst,
Curryw
quality organic
g c and
a vega
vegan
g snacks,,
and
nd a ranggee of hoto chili
c sauces.
ssauces
Open daily
ily 122:0
2:00-24:00
Sunday 12:000-21:00
Vicolo Bergmann
Bergmannstrraße 88
Berlin-Kreuzbberg
www.bergmann-currry.com
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE
Within a historic market hall
building, the rustic Markthalle
restaurant is long and tall, with
wainscoting, simple wooden
furniture and a bar that locals belly
up to. It’s a restaurant that doesn’t
let its looks carry it: the kitchen
takes pride in its nouvelle takes
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekly, but count on Spätzle, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to
American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check
if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.
QH-4, Pücklerstraße 34, Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurant
-markthalle.de. Open 10:00 till late. €€. B
Nightlife
BARS
GALANDER
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style
fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander
has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some
quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is
played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4,
Grossbeerenstraße 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E
MILCHBAR
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and hard
rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to cheer on
their teams when football games are screened. The murals
and dark décor can heighten your wooziness if you’ve
had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuffelstraße 41,
Kreuzberg, MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611 70 06,
www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00. NBW
WÜRGEENGEL
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuel’s film
El Ángel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great place
for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen tasty
June - July 2014
53
Kreuzberg
Kreuzberg
Friesenstraße 26
Berlin-Kreuzberg
tel. 896 202 52
Der Wellfood-Imbiss
options, while the cocktail menu has over 50 reasons to
delay your departure. To round it all off, there are Cuban
and other cigars to enjoy.QH-4, Dresdener Straße 122,
Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 55 60,
www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00. €€. B
CLUBS
SO36
Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
that’s home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks and
metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans. On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or Gayhane,
show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the friendly
door staff.QH-4, Oranienstraße 190, Kreuzberg, MU
Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.so36.de.
Check their website for opening times. UENG
MUSEUMS
BERLINISCHE GALERIE
This museum for modern art, photography,
architecture, and artist archives concentrates 120
years worth of creativity forged in Berlin. Artists
represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New
Objectivity movements, and those representing the
divided Berlin. Giants of German art include Heinrich
Zille, Otto Dix, George Grosz, Hannah Höch and Wolf
Vostell.QG-4, Alte Jakobstraße 124-128, Kreuzberg,
MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.
berlinischegalerie.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue. Admission €8/5, first Mon €4. Free for visitors
under 18.
www.glueck-to-go.de
www.facebook.com/GluckToGo
Sightseeing
JÜDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN
(JEWISH MUSEUM)
The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many
ways in which German life and Jewish history are
intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark ‘voids’
for contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more
than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.
QF-4, Lindenstraße 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches
Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission €5/2,50,
special exhibitions €4/2, combined ticket €7/3,50.
LANDMARKS
TEMPELHOF AIRPORT TERMINAL (ZENTRALFLUGHAFEN)
The Tempelhof Airport terminal, now used for events, was constructed in the 1930s, but the interior of the massive 1300-metre-long complex was never finished. The history is impressive:
the Prussian army paraded here, in 1909 Orville Wright broke
records by flying higher and longer than ever before, and in
1948 the first round of the Cold War was won when the Allied
airlift beat the Soviet blockade. Two-hour English-language
tours take you from the apron and the main hall, down into
the air raid bunkers and onto the roof.QPlatz der Luftbrücke,
MU Platz der Luftbrücke, tel. +49 30 200 03 74 41, www.
tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Guided tours in English on Sat at
15:00, Sun at 10:30. Tickets €12/9, children €6.
TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS
(TOPOGRAPHY OF TERROR)
Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all
that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS)
Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to
highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military
and security groups that were headquartered in this area,
and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast
across Europe. The most important lesson to take home
is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive
thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes
and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF-4,
Niederkirchnerstraße 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstraße, tel.
+49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.
PARKS & GARDENS
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM
(TECHNOLOGY MUSEUM)
One of Berlin’s best museums is unmistakably recognisable
by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main
building. The huge complex set in and around an old
freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes,
computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there
are windmills and a brewery. There’s a hands-on Spectrum
science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Straße
9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40,
www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission €6/3,5.
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlin’s rare live-music venues brings in
hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. There’s an
occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Straße 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Görlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB
Mon - Sat: 11 - 21 • Sun: 12 - 19
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this
is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter ‘Bauhaus’
Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an
arts and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau
hosts excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David
Bowie.QF-4, Niederkirchnerstraße 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT
Where else can you run for five minutes with your eyes
closed? Berlin’s most amazing space is this historic and wide
open airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008
and was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and
taxi lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders;
the fields around them are used by rare breeding skylarks
(from April-July), picnickers, barbecuers, artists, kite-flyers,
gardeners and dog-walkers. There’s even a Biergarten at
the northern end. Note that turnstiles allow exit from
the park after closing time as well. Also easily accessed
from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof and Boddinstrasse.
QF/G-6, Columbiadamm, MS/U Tempelhof, www.
tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March 06:00-19:00, April
& Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:00-21:30, June & July
06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan 07:30-17:00, Feb
& Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free.
VIKTORIAPARK
Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich
Schinkel’s memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner
of Kreuzbergstraße and Großbeerenstraße for an eyeful of
the park’s waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century.
Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow,
tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the
graffiti-laden monument to take in the panoramic view.
Towards the back of the park, past a playground and off the
Bacci field, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel to
Kreuzbergstraße is a small petting zoo where children and
goats get to meet and bleat.
June - July 2014
55
Kreuzberg
River tours
After flowing a bucolic 400km from the Czech border
region to Berlin, the river Spree goes out with a bang before
disappearing into the Havel near Spandau. Cutting a curvy
passage through Berlin, it provides tremendous views of
the Dom cathedral, the Reichstag and the government
district and the Berlin Wall near Ostbahnhof. Some of the
Spree is diverted along park-lined canals, and Berlin has
more bridges than Venice or Amsterdam.
Short city centre cruise tours depart regularly from the
boat landings near the Museumsinsel, Friedrichstraße,
Hauptbahnhof station and the Haus der Kulturen der Welt
in the park. The 3.5-hour Brücke (bridges) tours cruise past
all the city centre sights, down Landwehrkanal and past the
beautiful Oberbaumbrücke. Here we list your options with
English narration. Sail away.
BERLIN’S MUSEUM
OF MODERN ART
Alte Jakobstraße 124–128
10969 Berlin
Wed–Mon 10am–6pm
www.berlinischegalerie.de
www.facebook.com/berlinischegalerie
Foto: Nina Straßgütl
Y
ARIL
POR
M
TEM ED FRO
S
CLO 07.2014
01.
BERLINISCHE GALERIE
The Berlinische Galerie is
one of the newest museums in the German capital
and collects art from Berlin dating from 1870 to the
present day – with both a
local and international
focus. Its outstanding
collections include Dada
Berlin, the Neue SachliRainer Fetting,
chkeit (New Objectivity)
Portrait Martin Kippenberger,
and the Eastern European
1978, © Rainer Fetting
avant-garde. The art of
the divided and reunified city of Berlin provides another
focus. The current presentation of the collection shows
works from the end of the Second World War to the present day. The collection is on show until 23rd June.
RENOVATIONS
From 01 July
The Berlinische Galerie will close temporarily for renovations from 1 July 2014. The website and newsletter keep
you posted for temporary projects, explain the work the
museum is doing, offer a podium for experts, and present
works from the collection. In spring 2015 the Berlinische
Galerie will re-open.
NIK NOWAK
Echo. GASAG Art Prize 2014
Until 30 June
Nik Nowak has been awarded the GASAG Art Prize 2014.
His projects investigate strategies for filling space acoustically. At Berlinische Galerie Nowak has continued his
work with sound objects and experimental compositions.
MARKUS DRAPER
From the Collection
Until 23 June
The monumental installation Windsor Tower (2007) by
Markus Draper joins recently acquired paintings and a
video-installation.
IGNACIO URIARTE
Counting (for) Eight Hours
Until 30 June
In the acoustic installation especially designed for the
lobby of the Berlinische Galerie, the monotonous voice
of a man is heard steadily counting away for eight hours.
GARDEN PARADE
Gardens for the Berlinische Galerie – atelier le balto
In creating their gardens for the Berlinische Galerie, landscape architects atelier le balto draw on a familiar urban
theme in Berlin: the building site.
MS SCHIFFSKONTOR
Rent an antique boat and
sail just about anywhere
on Berlin’s waterways.
There’s the rustic open-top
Oskar from 1930, or rent
the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty from 1950
in which you’ll look dashing with dark sunglasses and
a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.
schiffskontor.de.
REEDEREI BWSG
Besides the regular, short City Spreefahrt tour between the
Haus der Kulturen der Welt and the Mühlendammschleuse
locks, BWSG has a daily 2,5-hour East Side Tour that takes in
the remains of the Wall and new developments in Eastern
Berlin.QG-3, Spreepromenade, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 651 34 15, www.bwsg-berlin.de.
Tickets €10,50/5,25; East Side tour €21/10,50.
CHARTERTRIPS ON
HISTORICAL BOATS
... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with
Aphrodite or Oskar
10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36
Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60
www.schiffskontor.de
APP
REEDEREI RIEDEL
Riedel’s panorama ships offer 1-2 hour Stadtkernfahrt
city centre tours up to 20 times per day, departing from
near Hauptbahnhof, the Haus der Kulturen der Welt and
Märkisches Ufer. The 1-3 hour Spreefahrt tour goes around
all the main sights. The 2-3.5 hour Brückenfahrt tour sails
several times daily from Märkisches Ufer. There’s an additional
evening cruise.QE-3, Willy-Brandt-Straße (Ludwig-ErhardUfer jetty), Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 693
46 46, www.reederei-riedel.de. Tickets €10-20/5-10.
REEDEREI WINKLER
Winkler’s one-hour Stadtrundfahrt tours depart up to
10 times daily from beside Friedrichstraße station. The
3-3.5 hour Spreefahrt river tours from Schlossbrücke in
Charlottenburg take in the river beyond the city centre
sights. There are evening departures too, and check the
website for the special culinary and party cruises.QF-3,
Reichstagufer jetty, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel.
+49 30 349 95 95, www.reedereiwinkler.de. Tickets:
Stadtrundfahrt €12/10, Spreefahrt €19-21/17-19.
June - July 2014
57
City tours
City tours
B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V.
ANITA SIKORA’S BERLIN WALKS
The walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora offer a
wide choice of topics, ranging from David Bowie and Walter
Benjamin themed tours, walks around the Pankow district,
to the Wall’s course through the industrial ‘Fireland’ district.
Join a regular group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49
176 68 60 16 63, [email protected], www.anitasikora.com. Tours €9.
Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture
Berlin from below
Cold War and WW II bunker tours
Different tours every day • see: www.berliner-unterwelten.de
Subway: Gesundbrunnen (U8), southern entrance-hall • Brunnenstraße 105
There’s a story on every corner in Berlin, though you’ll need
a guide to hear it. It’s a huge, fascinating city, but lacks a real
Old Town-type area. Attractions are fairly far-flung, so plan
your itinerary and get acquainted with the excellent public
transportation. If you’re here for a limited amount of time,
we highly recommend you join one of the walking or
cycling tours to get your bearings and see the main sights.
BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS
BERLIN CITY TOUR
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights
in about two hours; the green ones have live English
commentary; red ones have audioguides. Board at
Kurfürstendamm 14, the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor
and hop-on or hop-off as you like. There’s also a narrated
‘Wall & Lifestyle’ tour taking in the main Wall sights and
some trendy districts.Qtel. +49 30 68 30 26 41, www.
berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets €15/12/5.
BERLIN UNDERWORLDS
The Berlin Underworlds Association allows you to
experience Berlin´s history from an unusual perspective,
through its underground installations dating back to the
Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Though predominantly
in the spaces below Berlin´s Gesundbrunnen station,
tours are also offered in several other complexes that
are usually not accessible to the public. With prior
notification, tours can be arranged for groups of
minimum 20 people at other times.
The following tours are held in English; they also take
place in German and Spanish at other times, and various
tours are held in Dutch, French, Italian and Danish.
CITY CIRCLE BUSES
Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off
double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours. Buses
run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen languages.
Kurfürstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are the two main
starting points, but you can get on and off at some 20
stops.Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.berolina-berlin.
com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets €22/11. Afternoon
ticket (from 13:30) €16,50/11.
WALKING & CYCLING TOURS
Several companies offer free or affordable city centre
highlight tours, lasting about 4 hours and lead by enthusiastic
English-speaking expats, hoping you’ll tip generously and
sign up for more of their specialised tours. Booking is usually
not required, just show up at the meeting points (usually
at Hackescher Markt, and 30 minutes beforehand at Zoo
Bahnhof). We’ve also included several fun specialised tours.
Tour 1: Dark Worlds – A bunker from the Nazi era. MarNov Mon 11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 11:00; Dec-Feb Mon
11:00 and 13:00, Thu-Sun 11:00.
Tour 2: From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris.
Enter a devastated albeit fascinating underground world.
Apr 1 - Oct 31, Thu-Sun 16:00.
Tour 3: Subways, Bunkers, Cold War – a political history of Berlin from an unusual perspective. Mar-Nov Tues
11:00 and 13:00, Wed-Sun 13:00; Dec-Feb Thu-Sun 13:00.
Tour M – Breaching the Berlin Wall: Subterranean
escapes from East to West Berlin. Mar-Nov, Sun 10:30.
For further information see www.berliner-unterwelten.
de. Tickets €10/8, Tour M €13/10 (no reservation
required); the meeting point is at the southern entrance
of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station at Brunnenstraße
105, tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17.
BERLINER UNTERWELTEN (UNDERWORLDS)
The Berlin Underworlds Association allows you to
experience Berlin’s history from an unusual perspective,
through its underground installations dating back to the
Cold War, World War II, or earlier. Visit a bunker from the Nazi
era on the Dark Worlds tour, the rubble-filled Flak Tower
Humboldthain, a large bunker complex on the ‘Subways,
bunkers and Cold War’ tour, or the ‘Breaching the Wall’
escape tunnel tour. The meeting point is at the southern
entrance of the Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station.QF-1,
Brunnenstraße 105, Wedding, MS/U Gesundbrunnen,
tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17, www.berliner-unterwelten.de.
Admission €10-13/8-10.
BERLIN LOCALS
Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by
limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate
historical events to their family’s personal experience. Tour
themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich
to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also
licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are
in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@
berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours €40 per
hour, €250 per day.
BOWIE WALK
World-famous musician David Bowie had nearly
succumbed to fame, drugs and paranoia when he moved
to Berlin in 1976. He recovered well, partied hard with
Iggy Pop and made three albums before his departure in
1980, including the epic Heroes. Every month the ‘Feeling
Gloomy’ collective conducts a fun two-hour walking
tour past Bowies house in Schöneberg and the studios
where he recorded, highlighting the Berlin adventures of
the White [email protected], www.
feelinggloomy.com. Tickets €5.
BREWER’S BERLIN
The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express
(13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the city.
Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20). The
meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks ice cream
shop near Friedrichstraße station; no bookings are required.
QF-3, MS/U Friedrichstraße, tel. +49 177 388 15 37,
www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets €15/12.
Berlin Walks with Anita Sikora
Trace the footsteps of David Bowie and
Walter Benjamin and discover Berlin.
Feel the buzz of 1970s Berlin and the
charm of Charlottenburg around 1900.
Sense the terror of the Wall in the
‘Fireland’ district.
For more information and further
themed walks see here:
www.anita-sikora.com
E-mail: [email protected]
Tel. +49 (0)176 68601663
INSIDER TOURS
Insider’s enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel
like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT
Coffee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, €12/10). Other
tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam,
Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG-3, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.
ISHERWOOD’S NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable ‘Sodom on the Spree’
with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer
Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye
To Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour
through Isherwood’s Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is
spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s
party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42,
[email protected], www.cabaret-berlin.com.
Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets
€12.
ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30
and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich,
Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49
30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets €12/10.
June - July 2014
59
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G-3
H-2/3
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Putb
r.
St
Gerichtstr
hts .
Gleimstr.
str.
Volkspark
olks
Humboldthain
old
Swin
r.
.
Str
er
urg
b
em riftstrt . Wedding
ding
T
Lux
Ramlerstr
F
st
nen
Brun
r
str.
E
.
str
en
es
A
str.
atz
Leopoldplatz
U
u
r
nte
Ge
r.
t
rS
rge
bu
r.
St
lt e
Sy
dufer
rdu
Os
Lim
Dt. Herzzentrum
Herzz
erzze
zentr m
zent
Charité
Charité
e
Se
1
tr.
rS
.
str
r
de
ten
er
rum
tell
ages
Dohn
Am
Goethepark
ethe
heparkk
r
St
ü
Br
ütt
D
Index
Aapka
21
Adlon Kempinski
29
Admiralspalast
9
Aigner
20
Alba Berlin
6
Alexa Centre
29
Alliiertenmuseum
39
Alpenstueck
20
Alte Nationalgalerie
28
Altes Museum
28
Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 59
Anna Blume
44
April
33
A-Trane
37
Aufsturz
23
August Fengler
44
Babylon Mitte
10
Barcomi's Deli
22
Bavarium
33
Berghain
48
Bergmann Curry
51
Berlin, Berlin
41
Berlin City Tour
58
Berliner Dom
25
Berliner Residenz Konzerte 10
Berliner Unterwelten
59
Berlinische Galerie
54
Berlin Locals
59
Berlin Plaza
41
Best Western President
41
Bikini Berlin
39
Black Box Cold War
26
Bleibtreu
41
Blue Man Group
10
Books in Berlin
39
Borchardt
20
Bowie Walk
59
Brandenburger Tor
24
Brewer's Berlin
59
BR Volleys
6
Café am Engelbecken
52
Café am Neuen See
36
Café im Literaturhaus
36
Cafe Kalwil
37
Café Rix
53
Central Kino
10
CineStar IMAX & Original 10
City Circle Buses
58
Clärchens Ballhaus
24
Crack Bellmer
48
Cupcake Berlin
47
Daimler Contemporary Berlin
26
Dalí - The Exhibition at
Potsdamer Platz
27
Das Stue
40
Deutsche Oper
9
Deutscher Dom
26
Deutsches Currywurst
Museum
26
Deutsches Historisches
Museum
27
Deutsches Technikmuseum
55
Diekmann
34
Die Schule
43
Digital Eatery
22
Dressler
35
Duke
35
Einhorn
35
Eisbären Berlin
6
El Dorado
36
Ellington Hotel
41
English Theatre Berlin
11
Eschschloraque Rümschrümp
23
Eventim
12
Facil
21
FC Union Berlin
6
First Floor
34
Fischers Fritz
21
Fleischlust
43
Flohmarkt am Boxhagener
Platz
48
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark 45
Francucci's
35
Französischer Dom
26
Friedrichstadt-Palast
10
FritzClub
48
Füchse Berlin
6
Führerbunker
26
Galander
53
Galeries Lafayette
29
Geburtstagsklub
44
Gedächtniskirche
39
Gedenkstätte Berliner Mauer
27
Gemäldegalerie
27
Gendarmenmarkt
24
Glory Duck
47
Glück To Go
51
Gorgonzola Club
51
Grand Hotel Esplanade
41
Green Door
37
Grenander Morning Glory 37
Gugelhof
43
Hackesche Höfe
10
Halle Tanzbühne
12
Hamburger Bahnhof
28
Hebbel am Ufer
12
Hefner
37
Hekticket
12
Hertha BSC
6
Hilton
29
Hinterm Horizont
10
Honigmond & Garden Hotels
31
Hôtel Concorde Berlin
40
Hotel de Rome
30
Hugos
34
Insider Tours
59
InterContinental
40
Irish Harp
18, 38
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour
59
Jolesch
50
Jolly
20
Joseph Roth Diele
20
Jüdisches Museum Berlin 55
Käfer Dachgarten
22
Kaffee Burger
23
Kamala
20
Kaufbar
47
Kaufhaus des Westens
40
Kempinski Bristol
40
Keule
46
Kilkenny Irish Pub
18, 24
Kimchi Princess
50
Knese
33
Koka 36
12
Komische Oper
9
Konnopke's Imbiß
43
Konzerthaus Berlin
9
Kookaburra
12
Kulturbrauerei
45
Kunst und Nostalgiemarkt 29
La Forchetta
35
Locanda
35
Macondo
47
Mandala
31
Marooush
36
Marriott
30
Martin-Gropius-Bau
55
Mauerpark
45
Mein Haus am See
23
Memorial to the Murdered
Jews of Europe
26
Microsoft Center Berlin
27
Milchbar
53
Monsieur Vuong
20
MS Schiffskontor
57
Museum für Asiatische Kunst
39
Museum für Film und
Fernsehen
28
Museum für Naturkunde 28
Mutter Hoppe
20
Neue Nationalgalerie
28
Neues Museum
28
Neue Synagoge
24
Nikolaiviertel
25
Nola’s am Weinberg
21
Olympic Stadium
38
Original Berlin Walks
59
Osteria N°1
52
Ottenthal
34
Pagode
50
Palace
40
Panorama Café
22
Panoramapunkt
30
Papagena
12
Paris-Moskau
21
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz
31
Pergamon Museum
28
Pizzeria i Due Forni
44
Potsdamer Platz
25
Precise Myer's
42
Prenzlauer Berg Tourist
Information Centre
44
Radialsystem V
12
Reederei BWSG
57
Reederei Riedel
57
Reederei Winkler
57
Reichstag
25
Reingold
23
Reinhard's
21
Renger-Patzsch
33
Restauration 1840
20
Restauration 1900
43
Riehmers
50
Ritz-Carlton
31
Sachiko Sushi
36
San Diego Steakhouse
47
Sankt Oberholz
22
Santiago
44
Sarod's
50
Savoy Berlin
40
Scandic Potsdamer Platz 31
Schall und Rauch
44
Schloss Charlottenburg
38
Schneeweiß
47
Schnitzelei
34
Schöneberger Weltlaterne 33
Schwarzwaldstuben
20
Shakespeare & Sons
45
Sisyphos
48
SO36
54
Soda Club
45
Sophieneck
22
Sphere
22
Spielbank Berlin
24
Staatsoper im Schillertheater
9
Suksan
34
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
44
Swissôtel Berlin
40
Sylter Hof
41
tausche Taschen
45, 48
Tempelhof Airport Terminal
54
Tempelhofer Freiheit
55
Tiergarten
39
Tipi am Kanzleramt
11
Topographie des Terrors 55
Traube
22
Union Jack
38
Vicolo Bergmann
52
Viktoriapark
55
Waldorf Astoria
41
Week-End Club
24
Weinstein
44
Weltrestaurant Markthalle 53
Westin Grand
31
Wild at Heart
54
Wintergarten Variété
11
Wohnzimmer
44
Würgeengel
53
Zander
43
Zillemarkt
33
Zille-Stube
20
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus
45
Zwiebelfisch
37
Zwölf Apostel
36
Local cuisine
Wartburgstraße 54, Berlin - Schöneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
CineStar
:
Pure fascinatio
on at Sony Center..
Experience the greatest blockbusters and
breath-taking documentaries on Berlin´s
largest screen – featuring the world‘s best
3D technique and luxurios leather seats.
Select shows in the original English version.
Find more info and tickets on cinestar-imax.de
Sony Center am Potsdamer Platz
IMAX® ist eine eingetragene Marke der IMAX Corporation

Berlin

Transcription

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