Cosmetics in India

Good Morning and Welcome to the
Enigmatic and Indispensable
World of Cosmetics
Paradigm Shift of the
Cosmetic Industry in India
A Glimpse
A Presentation By
Sanju Nanda
M.Pharm., Ph. D (IITD), LLB. (Hons)
Department of Pharm. Sciences
M.D.University, Rohtak (India)
[email protected]
Department of Pharmaceutical
Sciences
Highlights of the Presentation
 Cosmetics are now not just used as
luxury articles. They have become an
integral part of our grooming.
 They are now being used by people
of all ages and gender.
 Cosmetic products are also being
used as Topical (therapeutic)
formulations.
 Intervention of innovative
technologies like Herbal,
Nanotechnology, Biotechnology and
Packaging Technology in Cosmetics
is promotional for this industry.
This presentation is made with two
major objectives in mind
1. To share the existing
developments taking
in the field of
Cosmetics in India
2. My research
interests in
Cosmetics
Beauty in Indian context ...
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Fair complexion
Long black hairs
Youthful face
Good health and height
“Solah Shringar”
Beauty of inner self
Beauty in the changing paradigms
• Fairer complexion
• Size zero
• Colouring and styling of
hairs
• Anti aging treatments Botox, facials, herbal and
other anti aging creams
• Concern for health in a
holistic way
• Beauty with Brains
• Women of substance
India
A Land of ...
• Aryan lineage
• Forests, rivers and
mountains
• Rich source of flora and
fauna
• Heritage of knowledge Traditional system of
medicine like Ayurveda
• Patronage by regal
beauties like Noorjahan,
Padmavati
• Beauty Queens like
Sushmita Sen, Lara Dutta ,
Aishwarya Rai
Attars – The Indian Perfumes
Attar is the traditional Indian
fragrant perfume oil that is pure and
lasting. Non-alcoholic and natural,
attars are produced from flower
petals distilled in water. Some
include herbs, wood, spice and resin
extracts. Attars use sandalwood oil
fragrance as the base. Popular attars
are Zafran, Majmuha, Chameli,
Nargis, Jantey, Firdos, Kasturi,
Sandalwood, etc.
India :
Unity in Diversity
• Varied Ethnic groups,
skin and hair types
• Different Socio Economic status
• Highest number of
young population 65% (median age 25)
• Consumer base lies
between 16-75 yrs
Per capita expenditure on Cosmetics
(in US $)
Hong Kong
Malaysia
Japan
China
India
40
10
12
1.5
0.68
The Indian Cosmetic industry is estimated to grow at a CAGR
of around 22%
-- RNCOS Analysis
Pre GLP and Post GLP Scenario
• GLP – Globalization, Liberalization and
Privatization
Paradigm shift – from stems to
stem cells
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Fairness creams
Antiaging creams
Herbal cosmetics
Sunscreens
Deodorants
Perfumes
Cosmetics for Men
Cosmetics for Children
Cosmetic Industry is growing…
The current size of
Cosmetics and
Toiletries market is
about Rs 4600 crores
and is expected to touch
a figure of Rs. 20,000 cr.
By 2014
It is expected to reach
US $ 20.23 bn by 2017
-- ASSOCHAM
The demand is growing due to ..
• Higher disposable
incomes
• Cosmetics are now
being used by persons
in all age groups and
genders
• Robust media
promotion
• More global travel and
exposure to global
trends
• Fashion and Film
industry is also
progressing and
influencing the beauty
industry
• Premium Herbal
products available
And also by creating new set of
customers
• Boys
• Village and semi – urban
female population
Ref.: “Beauty Segment Unleashed”, by Retailers Association of
India, March 22,2013, http://rai.net.in (accessed on 19.05.13)
Cosmetics in India
• Education - The Pharmacy Act 1948 (PCI) and
AICTE
• Industry – Ministry for Chemicals and
Fertilizers
• Formulation and enforcement of Regulation
- MH&FW
- CDSCO
- State Drug Control Departments
Indian Regulators
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CDSCO
Schedule ‘S’, ‘Q’, ‘M II’
BIS
AYUSH
Ministry For Consumer
Affairs
Cosmetics in India: The regulatory
perspective
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Defined under the D&C Act 1940
Added only in 1964
Under Schedule “S” of the Act
Enlists 28 cosmetics, many of them for Indian
users
• Responsibility of BIS to make standards for
cosmetics
As per the D&C Act, Cosmetics
include
Any article intended to be
rubbed,
poured,
sprinkled or
sprayed on, or
introduced into or
otherwise applied
to the human body or any part thereof for
cleansing,
beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or
altering the appearance,
and includes
any article
intended for use as a component of cosmetic.
List of Cosmetics- Schedule ‘S’
• Skin powders
• Skin powders for infants
• Tooth powder toothpaste
skin creams
• Hairoils
• Shampoo –soapbased
• Shampoo synthetic
detergent based
• Hair creamst
• Toilet soap,liquid toilet
soap and baby toilet soap
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Cologne
Oxidation – hair dyes, liquid
Nail polish (Nail enamel)
Pomades and brilliantines
Depilatories chemicals
Shaving creams and after
shave lotion
• Cosmetic pencils
• Lipstics and lipsalves
• Powder hair dyes, henna
and kum kum powder
The Drug and Cosmetics Act 1940 and Rules
1945
• Manufacture of Cosmetics for Sale or for
Distribution
• Labelling, Packing and Standards of Cosmetics
(through BIS)
• Import of Cosmetics in India
• Testing Cosmetics by its Referral Lab Central
Drugs laboratory (MH&FW)
Safety /Toxicity Testing
• Safety Testing of cosmetics to be conducted
according to the Standards IS 4011:1997
• This is only for circumstances where a new
raw material, ( i.e. materials other than the
ones mentioned in the aforementioned
documents) in an old formulation or an
entirely new formulation is used
• This forms the crux of ongoing safety testing
on cosmetics in India (GRAS and GNRAS)
Pro Consumer Efforts
• Consumer Protection Act 1986,( amended
2002)
• Consumer Commissions and Forums became
functional (PPD in henna, dantmajans,VOICE)
• Consumer Redressal mechanisms were made
pro consumer and faster (90 days)
• Consumer awareness workshops and
awareness campaigns were sponsored by
the newly created Ministry of Consumer
Affairs
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Brands that built the
image in India and
Overseas …
Shahnaz
Dabur Samara
Zydus Cadila
Ayur
Biotique
Lotus
Himalaya
• Dabur – Uveda
• Blossom Kochhar
• Other Potential Indian
Brands
• Ponds
• Lakme
• Emami
• Godrej
• Marico
• Revlon
• Lux
Direct selling cosmetic
companies
• Oriflame
• Amway
• Modicare
• Avon
International Brands in India
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L’Oreal
Head and Shoulders
Garnier
Pantene
Nivea
Rexona
Colgate
Unilever
Cosmetic Pushers
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Colors
Herbals & Naturals
Anti aging
Fairness
For Children
For Men
New Technologies
The Technologies in Vogue …..
Herbal
Technology
Nano
Technology
Bio
Technology
Packaging
Technology
Herbal Technology
GREEN IS IN ……
Global Organic and
Natural Market
2007 --- $ 07 bn.
2010 --- $ 10 bn.
2012 --- $ 14 bn.
INCREASE IN USE OF HERBAL COSMETICS:
NATURAL
PRODUCTS
TREATED AS
HARMLESS, INERT
AND SAFE .
POSITIVE CONSUMER
ATTITUDE TOWARDS
NATURALS
CONSUMERS
TIRED OF
SIDE
EFFECTS OF
CHEMICALS
HERBS HAVE
BEEN A PART OF
HOME MADE
RECIPES AND
TRADITIONAL
SYSTEM OF
MEDICINE AND
FOLKLORE
THEY INCLUDE …………
• CRUDE PLANT MATERIALS LIKE LEAVES, FLOWERS, SEEDS,
FRUITS, STEMS, WOOD, ROOTS, RHIZOMES OR OTHER PLANT
PARTS WHICH MAY BE ENTIRE, FRAGMENTED OR
POWDERED.
• NATURAL MATERIALS IN ADDITION TO THE ABOVE
• FRESH JUICES
• GUMS,
• FIXED OILS, ESSENTIAL OILS, RESINS, etc.
Herbs used in Cosmetics
Herbal Cosmetic Market: Getting
Dynamic (about 1200 crore)
• Dabur India Ltd - launching a new
series – Anmol
• J R Herbal Care- Ear marked 10 crore
for the manufacturing of its product
“Joves” at Noida. Looking forward to
position its product in EU including UK
• Others are Shahnaz Hussain, Vinita
Jain,Ozone,F&L, Lotus, Vicco
Changing Frontiers for Herbal
Cosmetics
• Biotechnology
interfacing Herbal
Cosmetics
• Novel Drug Delivery
Systems in Natural and
Herbal Cosmetics
• Nanotechnology
interfacing Herbal
Cosmetics
Increased Use of Botanicals and other
Naturals in Cosmetics
Concerns…
Are
Are
Are
Are
they
they
they
they
really effective ?
really required ?
stable ?
economical ?
•Amla in Shampoos
•Ad Oil in Shampoos
•Egg in Shampoos
Problems
•Standardisation
•Inconsistent Quality
•Preservation
Herbal Cosmetics:
BIS General Guidelines
• Standard No. IS 15753: 2006
• Purpose: To provide assurance to the
consumers that the products labeled as
“Herbal Cosmetics” are actually delivering the
benefit claims, are safe and of standard
quality.
BIS on Herbal Cosmetics
• Cosmetics claimed and labelled as ‘Herbal’
could be those products which are
formulated using standard, approved
cosmetic base into which herbs are added for
providing the claimed product benefits
• No stipulations have been made in these
guidelines regarding the composition of the
herbal cosmetics
No Tug of War ….
• Formulators/Marketers of Herbal cosmetics need
to comply with the general guidelines for Herbal
Cosmetics.
• If they are using herbs/herbal ingredients, for
example, to create variants, in which case the
cosmetic formulation shall be governed by the
current regulations under the Drugs and
Cosmetics Act and Rules as may be applicable,
and this general guideline for Herbal Cosmetics
shall not be applicable to such products
• Cosmetics are meant only for topical use and
the purpose is either cleansing, beautifying,
nourishing and altering appearance
• If a cosmetic product is sold with a claim
which indicates a therapeutic benefit or
interferes with the physiology of skin
(antiperspirant, fairness, etc), then it needs
to be substantiated with clinical data and
approval sought as a drug.
• IS 11377: 2001 - Guidelines for hygienic
manufacture of cosmetics
• IS 14648: 2005 – Methods of test for
microbiological examination of cosmetics and
cosmetic raw materials
• IS 3958:1984 – Methods of sampling
cosmetics
BIS also guides on
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Selection of Herbal ingredients
Quantity/Proportions of Herbs used
Herbal cosmetics Benefits claims
Quality Assurance
Shelf – life data
Safety data
Ayurveda: Science of Life
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Ayu – age/life
Veda – Knowledge/Science
Holistic way of living
Maintains the health of the
healthy
• Cures the sick
Living a Balanced Life
Every individual is made up of five elements
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Air
Water
Earth
Fire
Ether
• Imbalances leads to
Doshas – Vatta, Kapha
and Vayu
• Similar to the Yin Yang
theory of Chinese
Medicine , and
• Four Humours of
Hippocratic Theory
Beauty Management Through
Ayurveda
• Diet and Nutrition
• Mode of life
• Through social
behaviour
• Rasayans
• Skin care
• Hair care
• Foot care
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Eye care
Natural Deodorants
Natural Hair Colorants
Cosmetic corrections of
scar tissue
• Sandhana vidhi –
Cosmetic Surgical
corrections
Ayurvedic Cosmetic market is
growing
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Vicco
Shahnaz
Charak
Himalaya
Biotique
Spas,
Massages
Naturopathy,
Aromatherapy
Recent developments in the
Country
• L’Oreal opens new Research And
Innovation Centre in Mumbai
• Unilever to build deodorant
facility in India
• Women Colleges opening new
departments and courses in the
area of Cosmetology – Dev Samaj
College for Women, Ferozpur
L’Oreal in India
• L’ Oreal launched its first Research & Innovations
Centre in India which is the 6th in the world.
• It plans to invest Rs 1000 crore over the next three
years to research and innovate on Indian Hair and
skin care
• Centres at Mumbai and Bangalore
• Acc. to Jean Paul Agon, Chairman and CEO L’ Oreal
Paris, at the launch said “The Indian beauty market
is the fastest growing globally and will be the 6th
largest in the world by 2020 by which time L’Oreal
hopes to reach 150 million Indian Consumers”.
Unilever to build Deodorant
facility in India
• British PM David Cameron visited
HUL in Mumbai early this year
• This global personal care giant is
set to open its first Aerosol
manufacturing plant in Asia , in
Khargaon , Mumbai
• Investment of Euro 50 mn (USD
66 mn) proposed
• This plant shall be one of
the 30 new factories
being built by 2015
• Meant to cater to India
and across South East
Asia
• Will use superior
technology to maximize
energy efficiency and
reduce waste water to
zero
Regulatory Developments
• Import Registration of Cosmetics have become
mandatory from 1st April 2013
• No cosmetic in India shall be imported into India
unless the product is registered under the rules by
the licensing authority appointed by the Central
Govt under Rule 22 of D&C Act
• An application for the registration in Form 42 along
with all requisite documents shall be submitted to
Drugs Controller General (I), New Delhi, CDSCO.
How ever, No licence, after
permission from CDSCO , in case of ...
• Bulk Cosmetics - for repackaging for 100%
export to other companies will not require
registration certificate but with an
undertaking that it shall not be released for
sale in India
• For R& D purposes - like packaging trials,
consumer studies, shelf life studies, transport
studies – not to be released for domestic sale
Alternatives to Animal Testing
DCGI may reconsider ban on animal testing
on animals due to pressure from animal
welfare groups
India contributing to ISO on Natural
and Herbal Cosmetics
• In 2010, International Organization for
standardization(ISO) took up a new project
and constituted a working group namely
ISO/TC217/WG4.
• This working group is preparing an
International Standard for “Definition,
Terminologies and Criteria for Natural and
Organic Chemists “
• Herbals are a subset of Naturals
Indian inputs ……….
• The Working Group is preparing two
documents
• Initial Document was prepared by Colipa (the
European Cosmetic Association)
• Indian Inputs: ISTMA (Indian Soap and
Toiletry Manufacturers Association) and
members of the Cosmetics Sectional
Committee-PCD 19
• Dr. D B Anantha Narayana represents India
through BIS in the meetings of ISO
Indian Certification Schemes for
Food, Drugs and Cosmetics
1) BIS Product Certification Scheme:
• Provides Third Party Guarantee of
quality, safety and reliability of
products to the ultimate customer
• ISI mark is issued under this
scheme
2) ECOMARK:
• Launched in the eco-labeling
scheme `Ecomark' in 1991
• For
easy
identification
of
environment-friendly products.
Voluntary Certification
Scheme for AYUSH
Products
• Department of AYUSH- the Scheme owner
• Quality Council of India -responsible for
managing the scheme
• Two certification criteria:
 Ayush Standard Mark-Based on compliance
to the domestic regulatory requirements
 Ayush Premium Mark-Based on two
options:
a) Compliance to GMP Requirements based on
WHO Guidelines
b) Compliance to regulatory requirements of
any importing country provided they are
more stringent than Option A above.
Halal
Certification
• Quranic term meaning ‘permitted, allowed or
lawful’.
• The opposite is Haram- prohibited activity
• Pork, alcohol, blood, carcasses of dead animals is
explicitly forbidden
• Halal logo is an authoritative, independent and
reliable testimony to support Halal claims
Conferences being held in the area
of Cosmetics
• PICASA 2013 – Annual Scientific Seminar of
ISSC held in January KET’s V G Vaze Collge
Mumbai ,on the theme “Emerging trends in
Cosmetic Science”
• “New frontiers in Herbal Cosmetics and
Nutraceuticals”, International Symposium at
Dehradun in February
• Shoolini University, 21st June, 2013
Proposed Workshops from ISCC
• Perfumery workshop – April 2013
• Sensory Evaluation workshop – May 2013
• Photo stabilization of sunscreens and actives
– July 2013
• Workshop on Herbal Cosmetics – September
2013
• Workshop on Hair Science – November 2013
• Workshop on Skin Science - January 2014
Conclusion
Indian Cosmetic Industry
A SWOC ANALYSIS
A SWOC ANALYSIS
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Strengths
Weakness
Opportunities
Challenges
Strengths
• Abundance of
Natural Resources
• No Dearth of
Scientists and
Skilled Manpower
• Increase in Demand
Weakness
• Consumption of
cosmetics less in India
• Standards should be
more elaborate
• GMP compliant
manufacturing facilities
should be ensured
• Lesser consumer
awareness.
• Safety studies of new
technologies
Opportunities
• Increase in the user
class
• MNCs showing
interest
• Harmonization of
regulations
• Certification Schemes
Challenges
• Standards to be made
comparable with the world
• Regulatory control tightened
• Stopping the misuse of
traditional systems
• Check needed on misleading
claims
• Short term and long term
stability studies as well as
toxicology studies should be
performed for new
technologies
• Cost effective
• Check on Advertisements
• Disclosure of
ingredients on the
product label
• Strengthen
Consumer redressal
Need of the Hour
Researchers, Regulators
and Manufacturers
should come together to
adopt a scientific
approach so as to
produce safe products for
common use and help in
passing on the benefits of
new technologies to
consumers in a cost
effective manner
Areas of my Interest
• Skin : Structure,
enzymes, kinetics,
reconstruction of
artificial membrane
• TDDS
• Development of novel
cosmetic formulations
for Indian skin type
and dermal problems.
• Regulatory affairs
• Cosmetic Education
and Consumer
awareness
• Alternatives to
animal testing
Present Area of Work..
IP - MICROSPONGE /NANOSPONGES DRUG
DELIVERY SYSTEMS
(Using indigenous herbs)
• MDDS of Minoxidil for Alopecia (Gel)- Arti
• MDDS of Acyclovir for Herpes labilis and
H. Simplex (Gel and Lip Balm) - Pooja
• MDDS of Safranal for Sunprotection (Cream)
- Kumud
Highly cross-linked, porous, polymeric microspheres,
consists of micro porous beads of size ranges from 5300µm.
Can entrap wide range of actives and then release them
onto the skin over a time mode and also in response to
trigger.
Unique technology for the controlled release of topical
agents.
Used in prescription Drugs, Cosmetics, Over The
Counter (OTC) drugs and Skin care products.
Release Mechanism of Drug from
Micro sponge Drug Delivery
System
Drug in entrapped
form in vehicle
applied to the skin
Release can also
be controlled
through diffusion
pressure,
temperature etc.
Drug that is
already in vehicle
will be absorbed
in skin
Vehicle become
unsaturated and
equilibrium
disturbed
Flow of drug from
vehicle into the
skin
Flow of drug from
microsponge
particle to vehicle
Herpes Labialis
Herpes Keratitis
Need for Herbal Formulation(s):
A number of herbs are found to cure or
help in the cure of Herpes. These are :
Aloe Vera
• Polysaccharides in Aloe stimulate white blood cell activity and increase
the number of T-helper cells
• An Anthroquinine called Emodin in Aloe Vera disables the functioning of
herpes simplex virus type 1 and 2
• Also it keeps the skin hydrated and reduces irritation in herpes
Peppermint Oil
• Stops reproduction of herpes virus
Rose Oil
• Decreases irritation and hydrates skin
Prepared Lip Balm
Drug Loaded Microsponges
Test for Grittiness
Saffron Flower and its
Stigma for Sunprotection
The final formulation is expected to have:
• Considerable good SPF value
• Broad spectrum of UV protection.
• Restricted to the epidermal layers of the skin.
• Better performance on Indian skin type.
• Good stability.
• Additional benefits like anti aging and
moisturizing.
DRA – Drug Regulatory Affairs
• Alternatives to Animal Testing for Drugs and
Cosmetics - Kavita
• Certification Schemes and Marks for Food,
Drug and Cosmetics - Bakul
• Regulatory guidelines for Stability Testing of
Cosmetics across the Globe – Mayank
• Naturals in Cosmetics - Anil
My Personal Opinion about
Cosmetics
Beauty lies in
the eyes of the
Beholder
• Accept and Respect your body
• Cleanse, nourish and protect your Skin,
Hairs, Nails, etc
Cosmetics definitely plays
a positive role in the well
being of people but it is
also important that it
should be judiciously and
cautiously used
After all they are made up
of Chemicals
Eat Nutraceuticals for Cosmeceutical
Benefits
• Vegetarian: Vegetables,
Fruits, Cereals, colored
food, soy, salads,
• Non Vegetarian: Fish,
Eggs,Poultry
• Adequate Liquids: Juices,
Water, Green Tea, Milk,
Butter milk, Herbal drinks
Exercise and Think Positive
Use freshly prepared ‘Lepas’, ‘Ubtons’,
‘Rinses’ for holistic benefits
Prayer
Thank You God
For the beauty of Self
The precious innate Self.
The only thing
That cannot be taken from us
The only thing we really own.
Marjorie Holmes
Stay Healthy and look Beautiful
Acknowledgements
• Prof. Chang Seo Park and NCR for
the invitation and hospitality
• Vice Chancellor, M D University,
Rohtak for the permission
• Volunteers of this Symposium for
everything
The Audience For The Patient Listening
ANY QUESTIONS