the SWAT Trainer PDF here
Transcription
the SWAT Trainer PDF here
BRAVO SWAT TRAINING PROGRAM [ SPECIAL WORKSHOP FOR ADVANCED TRAINING ] Environmental Protection First 2 Products Covered The Bravo SWAT test primarily focuses on DoubleWall containment systems for use in California, along with some other common products. Under Dispenser Containment sumps Dispenser Conversion Frames Above Ground sumps Vent / Transition sumps Tank / Turbine sumps TITAN composite manway covers SNAP-LOCK turbine sump covers F-Series fittings for New Construction F-Series Retrofit fittings The steps in this training program are not a substitute for use of actual product installation manuals in the field. Last Revised 11/11/14 The Bravo Mission What we live by: 1) Lead the industry in the development of equipment to protect our environment from future contamination of the soil, water and air. 2) Provide our customers with superior products and services by decreasing their liability and increasing their profitability through safety, and minimum maintenance while protecting the environment. Leaks are not an option Highest quality parts and materials Fiberglass products designed to perform up to 30 years Forward / backward compatibility of our products Friendly, helpful customer service unequaled in our industry 3 ™ 4 Bravo Systems meticulously engineers their products to be built right the first time. To do this for our UDC Sumps, Transition Sumps, Tank Sumps and Fiberglass Penetration Fittings we looked to the highest standard, Tanks. Since the Tank is the primary fuel vessel meant for long-term storage, we copied it's specifications and built our Fiberglass products along those same lines. Unlike other similar products out there, our choice of materials stands up to the test of years of use, rather than the minimum testing requirements. In this way we have designed our products to last the life of your station, as the Tank is meant to. Bravo Systems Single and Double Wall Secondary Containment Systems truly are “Built like a Tank”. Same Material Spec as Tanks – UL 1316 Designed for Long-term storage Designed for maximum fuel compatibility Designed to last the life of your station Alternative Fuels up to E100 and B100 Vs.: the length of a compatibility test Built right the first time Bravo Corrosion Warranty If it’s Bravo FRP, it can SOAK in fuel for 30 years… under warranty. sbravo.com/30year Savings are often only considered in the now, this quarter, this year. This means more $$$ in your customer’s vault, right now. Saving money makes sense on the forecourt or in the C-store and can even help you win a bid. But secondary containment systems are buried for decades and no one should skimp on the quality of products used for containing fuel. True peace of mind comes later on, knowing that the system you installed is secure. Bravo products rarely need repairs and almost never need replacement. Choosing Bravo eliminates frequent maintenance and the need to replace failing components. Bravo is the only company in this industry that focuses on eliminating unnecessary short and long-term costs. We engineer every product to last the life of the station with a zero-leak standard that does not allow fuel releases or water intrusion. Your success along with our reputation for reliability is built on this policy. 5 6 Your Feedback is Valued FOUNDED FOR YOU Bravo was founded by Sergio Bravo, a service station technician that got sick and tired of all the unsafe things he saw and experienced in the field. So carrying that over to today, a big part of our product design comes from a goal of installer convenience and safety not just for the end users. But we also attribute our success to the feedback, knowledge and insights our installers have provided to us over the years. So our product design is influenced by your needs as an installer such as: Ease of installation, required tools that are either readily available or provided, tool-swing clearance, ease of access, ease of maintenance and rugged designs that you can trust and feel confident in recommending to our mutual customers. We don’t just pretend to listen though. We put your feedback to good use. In many cases, we get off the phone with you and make a production change right away to improve a product. Every time you give us a call with your problem and we solve it, it makes us a better company and helps to influence our insight-in-design policy. Our quick response times has encouraged regulators and inspectors to pick up the phone and contact us, knowing they will get answers or documentation right away. Even when you might have an issue with a regulator we will contact them on your behalf and get a grasp of the whole picture so we can smooth things out. Rest assured, we are involved and are on top of things. You may have contributed to our reputation for “having the answers” which has helped everyone place their trust in us and our company, so we thank you. Please continue to reach out to us and communicate your needs and issues at any time! 7 Bravo’s DW Standard Built like a Tank! Bravo DoubleWall sump walls have a compressive resistance of 1300 PSI which means they do not “float” or separate under liquid load They are compatible with all conventional fuels including blended fuels with up to E100 ethanol or E100 biodiesel or renewable diesel. Translucent sump walls with no paint or gel-coat makes installation far faster and advanced troubleshooting possible. Factory-installed combination pressure/vac gauge is used for all initial testing, fluid filling, pre and post-backfill testing and troubleshooting. Immediately following manufacture, all sumps are placed under a continuous 20 Hg+ vacuum / quality test all the way through shipping so you can feel confident in the integrity of each sump. The maximum positive test pressure is 4 psi and should be regulated. 4 psi is also used for soap testing installed entry fittings or laminations. Food-grade and non-toxic Propylene Glycol interstitial fluid is included with each sump. Using another brand of propylene glycol, true brine (sodium chloride solution), or plain water will void the warranty. 8 Hydro/ Vac Filling Basically, you are filling the sump by pulling the interstitial fluid in from the lowest point with a vacuum. Why? 1) It eliminates virtually all air from the interstice so the liquid won’t trap air that will later burp out and cause false alarms. 2) It significantly speeds up the filling process. See the B-9000 UDC sump on the right? 30 seconds to fill. Setup consists of filling a bucket with fluid, having an air supply ready, connecting an additional Ball valve and extended tubing to the factory-installed line opposite that of the gauge then priming the input line with fluid. Simple process: A) Pull a vacuum of 25 Hg through the gauge with our air-driven venturi generator and continue throughout the fill. B) Open the ball valve slowly at first then open it up and watch the liquid evenly rise until its almost to the top. Then conduct the Bravo ALDP. (next slide) NO GRAVITY FILLING! Yes, this means that you are not permitted to simply pour fluid in from the top. You must Hydro-Vac fill, then you can fill the reservoir manually at the end. REFER TO MANUALS FOR DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS MIN 1 PER SITE: VAC-KIT-D-AB 9 Bravo ALDP Advanced Leak Detection Procedure This procedure was developed to significantly speed up leak finding during construction. It is a mandatory installation step and is exclusive to Bravo sumps since no paint or gel-coat obstructs visual inspection even when buried. On the tail end of the Hydro/vac filling procedure, when the liquid level is about 2-4 inches from the very top of the interstice, close the ball valve leading to the liquid source. With the source ball valve closed, simply re-apply a hard vacuum of 20+ Hg via the test gauge. Wait 5 minutes or so, then closely inspect the interior walls to look for trails of bubbles traveling upwards within the interstice. By following any trails down, you can find any leak points with accuracy. NOTE: the ALDP has limited accuracy if the backfill is waterlogged as it relies on pulling air into the interstice. 10 Under Dispenser Containment B-8000 & B-9000 Series Tailored to virtually any dispenser model Interchangeable dispenser frame allows easy and low cost future upgrades without digging or replacement Galvannealed & epoxy-coated steel structure with positive concrete anchoring Electrical offset option on one side B-8000 designed for narrow island forms B-9000 designed for flex line sweeps and internal volume is ~ 70% greater than 8000 Find these and more at www.sbravo.com/udc 11 Installation Inspect for damage and that gauge reads 12+ Hg vacuum. If the gauge reads less than 12” Hg, it is usually caused by the gauge assembly or tubing assemblies. Call 1-800-AT-BRAVO and report your issue. Note the A and B sides that designate Junction Box sides. Orient, level and secure the UDC at target location and support it with pea gravel. If an islandless site, the target height should be 1/4” above the driveway grade. Remove the Dispenser Frame and set aside. Install SVA-BARB to the gauges. Install conduit by sweeping up on the offset window side of the UDC and secure in place with provided Bravo pipe clamps to the exterior C-Channel. VACUUM 0 PRESSURE SVA-BARB 12 Installation Mark planned entry locations for piping, drill holes and install entry fittings. After entry fittings are installed and completely cured, Pressure/soap test each entry fitting inside and outside. Use 4 PSI and keep fitting interior clean. If they pass, keep going. If there are leaks, contact the factory and report. Install and test all primary and secondary piping, flexes, Brackets and shear valves. Then Hydro/vac fill and conduct the ALDP test if liquid monitoring. After a successful ALDP test, cut tubing ends and connect to manometers. Re-verify the grade line. Apply a bead of Vulkem 116 sealant to the top flange of the UDC on the exterior of bolt holes and bolt the Dispenser Frame on. Backfill around the UDC and pour concrete. 13 Sealing the EO area 14 Bravo Conversion Frame SINCE 1991 SWRCB APPROVED UDSCCS DEVICE Only database in existence of conversions – Over 30,000 Tailored to most dispensers Including the existing UDC Dispenser Conversion Frame = DCF Structural ultra-rigid design provides safe foundation Drainage louvers ensure compliant fuel containment Find this product at www.sbravo.com/conv 15 Installation Features: Allows upgrade from or to nearly any dispenser Provides reinforced structural support & safety Drainage panels ensure fuel containment Installation: Utilize existing bolts or install new ones if compromised. A minimum of Four 1/2” bolts should be used. Bravo provides high grade hex bolts, zinc nuts and washers for securing the dispenser to the conversion frame. Black plugs are also provided and are used to plug top holes. Observe current ADA requirements. www.ada.gov There exist certain situations where existing electrical conduits are located just outside or inside the UDC wall which would interfere with Conversion Frame installation without modification. The new Conversion Frame order form asks if this is the case with your job site. A Bravo retrofit solution is available and even modification of the conversion frame is Approved by the SWRCB. However, you cannot modify the frame until conditions have been met and we have released an authorization letter to you. 1 and 2 show examples of possible installation issues. You check one or both off on the form. 16 Above Ground UDC B-8600 / B-8600-SS Fire-rated UDC for AST sites or Marinas Galvannealed epoxy-coated steel or stainless Standard model features low-point reservoir for mechanical shear valve shut-off assembly Tailored to most commercial dispensers Above ground Transition sump and models for PMC and Wayne S1 dispenser also available Installation: Install 1/2” bolts into concrete matching bolt pattern. Bolt to concrete, install piping and secure dispenser to it. If using float-trip system, install and connect chain to shear valve trip. Test actuation with water. Remove all liquid after. Observe current ADA requirements. www.ada.gov 17 Transition Sumps Retail or Commercial sizes have options for standard pass-through compression fittings for 2” diameter risers. All feature optional riser rack systems. B-500 features standard raised cover and should be installed with top of cover 2” above finish floor. B-600 features interior water-drainage system beneath the diamond-plate cover which should be installed with cover 1” above finish floor with sloped concrete. B-500 / 600 models can support up to 3” piping. B-600 Commercial models are larger and can support up to 4” piping. Installation: Inspect for damage and that gauge reads 12+ Hg vacuum. Secure atop a bed of pea gravel at specified elevation. Install entry fittings and piping. 1/2 turn max on AST fittings. Liquid fill + ALDP or vacuum monitor. Backfill and concrete in at the top. Easily drop-in rack system and tighten all fasteners. 18 Tank / Turbine Sumps Three common configurations available. 400-MW “Tall Collar” saves time in field since lower half is installed by tank manufacturer. Begin piping as soon as the tank is set. Optional latched compression covers. Lamination and paste kits are included. New SNAP-LOCK cover option available for turbine sumps B-401-XT “Collar Mount” B-400-MW “Tall Collar” Installation: 401-XT…….. Laminate lower & upper half to tank collar. 400-MW…… Laminate upper half to tall collar. 409............... Install to tank with tank bung fitting or use as a transition sump. Install entry fittings and piping. To adjust overall height, only cut difference to grade from the bottom edge of the top half. Liquid fill + ALDP or vacuum monitor. Backfill and concrete in with a manway, maintaining a minimum 1-1/2” clearance between top of sump cover and bottom of traffic cover. B-409 Transition 19 Lamination Joints Lamination consists of these simple steps: 1) Surface prep. All paint, gel-coat or contaminants must be removed. 2) DoubleWall joints are butt-joints, so tape them off inside and outside with masking or duct tape. 3) Apply FRP paste over the tape to provide a smooth transition. 4) Using lamination “patches”, laminate four layers of resin-saturated mat centered on each joint seam 360° around, inside and outside. 20 How to Laminate We have a Video on how to make the perfect lamination. See it at sbravo.com/videos Pre-cut 6” wide mat into 24” lengths. Mix / catalyze resin in blue bucket. Use paint roller to wet out one layer of mat at a time on clean cardboard. Add a second layer of mat to the first and stagger ONE INCH. Wet it out. Repeat for the third and fourth layers. Then roll all the air bubbles out of each 4-layer fiberglass patch with the provided Chamfer Roller. Apply patches to clean sump walls and roll in place with Chamfer Roller. Add each patch to the first with a FOUR INCH overlap. RULES: Paint roller is used for mat wet-out and flow coating only. Chamfer roller used for air-removal and applying patches. 21 Manway Covers Maximum load: 79,500 lbs Exceeds EN-124 C load rating of: 56,200 lbs No issues with snow plows ! Exceeds H-25 rating of: 20,000 lbs Some covers don’t even meet the H-20 rating of: 16,000 lbs 22 Installation New Construction (cover and skirt) Minimum 2 layers of steel rebar reinforcement per engineering specs or regulatory codes, 360° around the manway, placed directly under the structural flange (top of frame) at grade. Minimum 8” concrete depth around skirt, from grade Maximum 12” concrete depth around skirt, from grade Approximately 1/4” per foot of concrete sloped down and away from edge of manway. Minimum 1-1/2” clearance between top of sump cover and bottom of traffic cover. old steel cover with frame lifting up Retrofit Cover and Skirt Cut 86” x 86” square hole around existing cover. Secure at target elevation. Install sixteen (16) 24” long, 1/2” diameter dowels 12” deep into existing concrete, 20” on-center from each other. Install steel reinforcement as if new construction. Concrete in with a 1/4” to 1/2” expansion joint. For Water-Tight models, the o-ring is easily serviceable. Drop-In Retrofit (cover only) Drop TITAN into existing frame New 42” TITAN showing steel reinforcement SNAP-LOCK Retrofit Cover Makes Twist-lock covers obsolete! Ultra-easy to open / close – no tools! Vertical high-pressure O-ring seal Stays sealed against 5 feet of water Installation via Lamination seal For Fiberglass tank sumps only NOTE: Not for Bravo brand DoubleWall Tank sumps. May apply to other manufacturers. 23 FRP Fittings Basics 24 There are specific yet simple rules to always follow when bonding Bravo fiberglass fittings. Any Contact Surfaces that are to be bonded together must be sanded. In the case of fiberglass sumps, sanded until there is open fiberglass. If there is paint or gel-coat, it must be removed. For galvanized or PVC-coated conduit, the surfaces must still be abraded. Before installation, the Contact Surface of FRP pipe should be hand-sanded to take some –but not all– of the sheen / gloss off. A standard taper tool is used for the secondary pipe. FRP epoxy will bond FRP to FRP, PVC or Steel only if the Contact Surfaces have been properly abraded. FRP epoxy will not bond FRP to polyethylene or nylon materials. Bravo epoxy can be used on all bonding / injection steps EXCEPT joints that SEAL the primary pipe. An Epoxy bond between any number of Contact Surfaces WILL fail if the surface is dusty, dirty or wet. Maybe immediately, maybe later. Even if there are fingerprints all over the surfaces. Don’t chance it. Use clean gloves to handle FRP entry fittings. For the reason above, all Contact Surfaces should be clean and dry at all times during the installation. If fittings have been kicked around in the backfill, they must be dusted off and Contact Surfaces should be lightly hand-sanded and cleaned with acetone to ensure there is no surface contamination or moisture present before bonding. Abrading Pipe / Conduit Bravo provides a length of emery cloth with every FRP entry fitting to help you get the job done faster and better. Loop the strip under your pipe or conduit to easily and thoroughly sand the underside. Sand the top with regular sandpaper or if you are in a tank sump, just adjust your emery strip angle. 25 Epoxy Mixing 26 Bravo epoxy is pre-thickened and has a bright yellow colorant in it. When it is thoroughly mixed, it will be a consistent bright yellow color. If it is not mixed well, you will see grey lumps and other inconsistencies. “Retrofit” epoxy is thick like cake frosting or peanut butter; perfect for installing fitting parts to walls. KEEP IN A COOL, DRY PLACE OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT UNTIL NEEDED STILL LUMPY – NOT MIXED YET CREAMY YELLOW – FULLY MIXED Cold Weather Directions 27 Cold Weather Directions 28 29 All-FRP Entry Fittings For New Construction All-Fiberglass F-Series “Full Body” entry for Product and Conduit “Tank-Spec” fiberglass with integrated external flange and loose interior flange Size over size for 2”, 3”, 4” & 6” FRP pipe Conduit models for 3/4” and 1” galvanized or PVC-coated conduit F-32-TS-T-D Dual test ports at 9 and 6 ‘o-clock with plug & shrader valve included Pipe / conduit sealed via adhesive injection Secondary has a standard tapered joint LCX models can pass through or terminate secondary within fitting Grounding Rod model with factory-installed naval brass rod includes a pair of grounding clamps F-10-SS F-17-GR 30 Cross Section Epoxy Injection Port Secondary Epoxy Wraparound area Primary 6 ‘o-clock Test port Sump Interior Sump Exterior 31 F-Series Standard All F-Series “Full Body” fittings are bonded to an FRP sump with epoxy. Size over Size models feature a standard taper socket for the secondary pipe and an injection port to wrap epoxy around the primary pipe. Models for LCX and electrical conduit require epoxy injection on both sides of the wall. Orientation of the injection port is important. With the Injection port at the 12 o-clock position, the test ports will be at 9 and 6 o-clock. The Standard F-Series has one body and one flange. It is a 0° angle fitting but wall grinding along with the draft of a sump wall can help you reach about 2° degrees of angle. The provided rubber boot for the electrical fitting is filled with a separate 2-part epoxy which encapsulates the fitting and conduit on the exterior. INJECTION PORT AT 12 O-CLOCK 32 F-Series ADJ The F-Series-ADJ (Adjustable) has one body, two angled flanges and a regular flange. It is a 0-10° angle fitting. You get 10° by rotating the angled flanges together. They stack up on the outside of the sump wall. INJECTION PORT AT 12 O-CLOCK 33 Installation HOLE SAW SIZES: For all conduit fittings: 2-1/2” Hole Saw AIR GRINDER SEPARATE OF SANDING KITS For 3”x 2” fittings: 4-1/2” Hole Saw For 4” x 3” fittings: 5-1/2” Hole Saw Bravo sells a self-centralizing Sanding Kit to help you quickly and accurately abrade the correct area on the sump wall after a hole saw cut. For flat wall sumps only. SVA-BARB Also, always before bonding a Fiberglass fitting to a DoubleWall sump, install the SVA-BARB to the shrader port of the combination gauge, or vent the sump interstice to the open air. This is so that no pressure builds up while you are bonding entry fittings to the sump, potentially causing a blow-out and leak. 34 Installation To install fittings, drill correct hole saw size. make sure all parts are clean and apply epoxy to all contact surfaces. Then install to wall and clamp in place. Clean up excess epoxy. OUTSIDE INSIDE 35 Installation Below an installer inserts the epoxy-coated end of a tapered secondary pipe into the socket of the F-Series ADJ fitting. Then the Injection step is done. A label on the provided syringe tells you where to fill it. When injecting epoxy on LCX, or conduit fittings, you must inject the EXTERIOR port first. Treat the INTERIOR port like it is a second operation. 36 Installation For size over size fittings, your fitting kit includes a shrader valve and a brass hex plug. Install both by hand with UL thread paste into the steel coupler of your choice. Then install the brass hex plug into the opposite port. You will need to plug both of these ports off before you can test your secondary lines. DO NOT USE OTHER THREADED COMPONENTS. DO NOT use thread tape. DO NOT torque more than 10 ft lbs. Models available for OmegaFlex and BRUGG brand piping. 37 F-Series in action 38 FRP Retrofit Fitting Basics Why a Retrofit vs: Repair fitting? “Repair fittings” as the industry knows them have a proven reputation of failure and need to be replaced and repaired again, and again. Some customers jump from brand to brand in the hopes they can seal up these entry points. Instead, we purposefully call them Retrofit Fittings because we are completely replacing the old product with something entirely different. These are built (and warranted) to be submerged in fuel, indefinitely. Give the boots, the boot. RETROFIT BASICS: Ensure the containment sumps are made only of fiberglass. Bravo does not support polyethylene sumps of any make/model. Ensure the piping is fiberglass, galvanized or PVC-coated RobRoy or OCAL conduit. [ ] In addition to the basic rules for FRP fittings covered earlier, on-site evaluation is required. How to I.D. the OCAL manuf. date Only Bravo brand Epoxy Kits are permitted to install Retrofit fittings. The 5th and 6th characters after @ call out the year. If this is “14” you are good for both new construction and retrofits. If the existing conduit is OCAL Blue brand and it was manufactured before 1/1/2014, you need to remove it’s PVC jacket at the bond point, bond directly to the steel, and re-coat any exposed steel. If the conduit is compromised or rusted through, replace it. Bond only to areas with mild surface corrosion but sand and clean these areas first. PLAN AND MAINTAIN A MINIMUM 1/2” of contact between any two surfaces. 39 Retrofit-S FITTINGS Retrofit-S Single-Sided Retrofit for SingleWall Sumps Handles 0-20° degree angles by default Extremely low profile, all fittings less than 2” tall No excavation required to install For flat or round sumps Field modification permitted Each fitting is “Kitted” with: Enough epoxy for every bonding operation An additional split flange for curved sump walls All the required fitting clamps and zip-ties Emery sanding strip and sand paper Gloves, applicator brush and stir stick 40 41 Retrofit-S The Retrofit-S fitting consists of one split fitting with one cure cycle. Interior bolts Remove the interior components of the existing flexible entry boot Interior boot Retrofit-S 42 Protect the pipe appropriately while working. Push back or cut down bolts Protect pipe or conduit from damage Push the bolts back into the backfill. Otherwise, Cut and grind the bolts down. The studs should be ground just under flush with the wall. Always monitor LEL while grinding!! Retrofit-S 43 Abrade the sump wall around the opening from the pipe 3”out. 3” 3” ABRADE All paint or gel coat must be removed, exposing clean open fiberglass. SECURING CONDUITS Before installing the retrofit fitting the conduits should be secured to either each other or the riser pipe, only. Retrofit-S STRIPE mark across the wall and all components DRY FIT ONLY 44 Dry fit all components before mixing the epoxy. Use a permanent marker to mark a stripe across all components including the wall and the pipe to use as an alignment guide. SECURE ALL CONDUIT LINES TO EACH OTHER OR TO THE RISER. Retrofit-S ADHESIVE APPLIED TO ALL CONTACT SURFACES 45 If your sump wall is curved, install the curved flange to the wall first. If your walls are flat, hide or throw this piece away so nobody accidentally installs it. Generously apply epoxy to all contact surfaces and firmly press the flange against the wall. This insert does not bond to the pipe, only the wall. You don’t have to wait for the curved flange to cure, keep installing. Retrofit-S 46 Apply epoxy to all contact surfaces. Don’t EVER forget the surfaces at the split between both halves. FILL IN THE INTERIOR This is possible on the conduit models. This side contacts the wall For 2” pipe models and larger, you want about 1/2” or more of adhesive applied to the interior surfaces. Retrofit-S ADHESIVE APPLIED TO ALL CONTACT SURFACES APPLY ADHESIVE TO THE SURFACES THAT CONTACT EACH OTHER AT THE SPLIT PACK INTERIOR OF FITTING HEAVILY WITH ADHESIVE 47 Make sure there is some epoxy applied to the wall before installing main split fitting body. NOTE: The curved flange isn’t needed if the wall is flat. Toss it! Be sure to apply plenty of epoxy to the interior draft feature, nearly filling it. Press the fitting body firmly into place using the alignment stripe as a guide. Retrofit-S BEAD ADHESIVE HEAVILY ON ALL SEAMS 360° DEGREES AROUND FITTING 48 Use the included hose clamp to secure the two haves of the fitting body together during cure. Bead the epoxy that oozes out around all seams with a gloved finger. PIPE CLAMP SECURE YOUR FITTING BODY TOGETHER. RECOMMENDED: Clean the face of the fitting with acetone to make it look presentable but do not wipe epoxy away from the primary seams at wall and pipe. Retrofit-S The Bravo Epoxy Cure Time Chart shown on an earlier slide is affixed right to the epoxy can, so refer to it to plan a full cure time. Then water test per all local codes and regulations. 49 Retrofit-S in action 3” and 2” Retrofit models 2” Retrofit on curved sump with Offset Plate An offset plate is a split piece of FRP wall with a hole in the center that helps create a good bonding surface if say, the existing entry fitting was oversized and its hole was too large. 50 Retrofit-S in action Size over Size (3x2) Close proximity and high angle entry 51 Modification for close-proximity piping These two 3/4” conduits are less than 1” apart and set at a 35° angle. The Retrofit-S fittings can handle more angle and even if the piping is closer together or farther apart. Multiple conduits this close should be braced /secured together so that they can’t move during installation and cure of the retrofit fittings. 52 Modification for close-proximity piping Use of a protractor helps determine the angle from the wall. With one of these, you can determine pipe angle from atop the pad, without entering the sump yet. 53 Modification for close-proximity piping Inspect the wall and sand off any remaining sealants, paint or gel coat. Remember the fiberglass entry fitting basics, abrade and clean all contact surfaces. Air grinders only! 54 Modification for close-proximity piping Surface prep continued. Whether you have pipe or conduit, rough them up 360° around at the bonding areas with the included emery cloth. Also sand off any surface corrosion so you can get a clean bond. 55 Modification for close-proximity piping You will likely be modifying standard models. Notice that the openings for these conduit fittings are 5” on center. Time for some dry-fitting. 56 Modification for close-proximity piping Plan your cuts well and make as few as possible. The outer two will mostly keep their shape. In this scenario, you will need to modify the inner halves to bring those on-center holes close enough to match the existing conduit. 57 Modification for close-proximity piping Dry-fit your split fittings on the piping as shown. Then measure the gap between the two fitting halves. Using this technique we will only need to take this one measurement to know how to cut our fittings. Our gap is 1-3/4” 58 Modification for close-proximity piping Now take that 1-3/4” measurement and divide the number by half and mark that distance outwards from centerline in both directions. Mark your cuts well. Remember that you are planning your cuts in line with the split line. SPLIT LINE 59 Modification for close-proximity piping A wet tile saw works best to cut the fitting but a chop saw with the appropriate blade or a cut off wheel will work. You want clean, straight cuts. 60 Modification for close-proximity piping Now you have one cut fitting and one un-modified fitting. Here is the one fitting cut up. The wet tile saw really does make the cleanest cuts. 61 Modification for close-proximity piping Rotate the center pieces of the cut fitting so the pipe openings face each other and place them between the two halves of your un-modified fitting. You should now have a custom fit Retrofit solution that matches your application. 62 Modification for close-proximity piping Dry fit all parts of your custom fitting to see if further modification is needed to match the angle of the pipe / conduit. You also need your fittings to all contact the wall. 63 Modification for close-proximity piping Mark the sections you think need to be opened up to allow the fitting to mount flush to the sump wall. Don’t be afraid to grind out more than is necessary since we are gap-filling with epoxy anyways. Just don’t thin any areas out so much That they will break. 64 Modification for close-proximity piping Grind out the areas you marked, dust it off and dry fit again. Repeat this process until the fitting rests flush with the sump wall, allowing the angled pipes to pass through the fitting easily. Sounds like a lot of work. But you should never need to revisit sumps again if you install Bravo Retrofits. 65 Modification for close-proximity piping Now we have a set of fully modified Retrofit fittings that exactly match the application. The grinding does not need to be even since again, the epoxy will fill all the voids and contours, making it a solid mass of fuel-rated FRP and epoxy. 66 Modification for close-proximity piping Make sure to do a final dry fit. Note that the fitting pieces are flush with the sump wall and the conduits pass through the fitting easily. See that the top hole even appears to be too big? No problem. Let’s bond this thing in place. 67 Modification for close-proximity piping Before we get messy here, remember that this Retrofit-S fitting is for SingleWall sumps. No risk of interstice close-off so go heavy. Apply a GENEROUS amount of the Bravo Retrofit Epoxy to the prepared sump wall and the conduits. Make sure that you displace any air between the pipes / conduits by packing that area with epoxy. 68 Modification for close-proximity piping Now apply epoxy generously to all the fitting parts. Pay special attention to the drafted portion on the interior that the pipe / conduit passes through. This should be packed solid with epoxy. Correct amount of epoxy: HEAVY 69 Modification for close-proximity piping Press your fitting components firmly in place and push hard. You want to get the fittings as flat against the wall and each other as possible. This should squeeze out a lot of epoxy. A hose clamp or zip-tie can be used to draw the components together while they cure. Make sure you don’t disturb the conduit or pipe while exiting the sump. 70 Modification for close-proximity piping Clean up the excess epoxy. Acetone can be used to clean up epoxy before it cures without damaging the install. 71 Modification for close-proximity piping End result: 40 degree angle conduits less than 1” apart. 72 73 DoubleWall Retrofit Rules There are five additional rules that must be followed before an entry fitting Retrofit is installed to a DoubleWall sump. These apply to the F-Series Retrofit SD-AB, D-BLR-S and D-INR-S fittings. Ventilate sump with SVA-BARB. SD-AB Retrofit Double-Sided Retrofit for DoubleWall Sumps Handles 0-10° degree angles by default Low profile, all fittings less than 2” tall Separate models for flat / round sumps Field modification permitted Excavation required to access exterior of sump Each fitting is “Kitted” and includes: Enough epoxy for every bonding operation All the required fitting clamps and zip-ties Emery sanding strip and sand paper Gloves, applicator brush and stir stick 74 SD-AB Retrofit 75 The Retrofit SD-AB fitting consists of two split fittings with one cure cycle each, but you can install them together as quickly as you like. The SD-AB is basically a double sided version of the Retrofit-S fittings. Exterior boot Remove the entire existing flexible entry boot. Interior boot Also remove any studded rings, bolts, or housings. It all has to go. SD-AB Retrofit Installation is simple, clean, abrade, apply adhesive, bond to components and let cure. Make sure to first dry fit all components to make sure the minimum contact rule is being met and the fittings rest flush against the walls. 76 SD-AB Retrofit 77 BEAD ADHESIVE HEAVILY ON BOTH CRITICAL SEAMS Clean the face of the fitting with acetone and rags to make it look like a new install fitting. Install pipe clamps to hold the halves together. Bead the epoxy that oozes out around all seams with a gloved finger. Add more epoxy to the critical seams if they need it. Allow a full cure before testing. PIPE CLAMP Then pressure/soap test all entry fittings at 4 PSI. SD-AB In Action This image shows a 3-point “Pusher clamp”. We have discontinued these. Interior views are not shown here because they would look identical since same fitting parts are installed on both sides. 78 79 D-BLR-S Retrofit Single-Sided Retrofit for DoubleWall Sumps Designed for Blue Line Kwik-Fit entries Handles 0-10° degree angles by default Low profile, all fittings less than 2” tall Two-step install / wall cutting required No excavation required Each fitting is “Kitted” with: Enough epoxy for every bonding operation All the required fitting clamps and zip-ties Emery sanding strip and sand paper Gloves, applicator brush and stir stick 80 D-BLR-S Retrofit It sounds too good to be true right? No excavation, no disconnecting pipe, no rubber, no metal, no caulk, no goop, no leaks. No, It’s true. But the D-BLR-S and D-INR-S Retrofit fittings come with a little more risk than your typical repair boots. So let us be perfectly clear here. To install these entry fittings to a DoubleWall sump, a small and controlled portion of the wall facing you must be cut out. It’s not a hole saw cut. Instead it must be routered out carefully with a controlled depth. We provide the tools for this - but even though unlikely - the risks are: You may accidentally penetrate the OUTER wall, requiring unplanned excavation and sump repair or replacement. You may accidentally damage either the secondary or primary pipe lines. These are designed to be installed with the station in operation so the risk to the primary line in particular is a big concern. Fully understanding how these are installed is the best way to avoid either of these issues. 81 D-BLR-S Retrofit This fitting consists of two split fittings and each one has its own independent cure cycle. NOTE: The interior insert must fully cure before the main body can be bonded. You will remove the interior portion of the boot, hub and anything else. If the boot is gone and backfill is pouring in, plug the area off with rags or backer-rod. Make sure nothing will push inward at a later time. If water is pouring in, stop all water intrusion first. Call Bravo for guidelines and to order products to stop the flow of water completely. 82 D-BLR-S Retrofit Dry fit your insert to the pipe and wall and trace an outline around it with a permanent marker. Use the Bravo wall cutting tool with adjusted depth gauge to cut out the marked shape from the interior wall only. Then remove any pieces of wall still attached. Don’t use sharp tools. 83 D-BLR-S Retrofit After removing the cut out wall portion, scrape out all remaining FRP fabric remnants and abrade this interior area until it is clean and flat. 84 D-BLR-S Retrofit Abrade the inner wall about 3” outwards from the new edge you just cut in the sump wall. While grinding take care to protect the pipe. You also need to abrade the pipe / conduit where the fitting will bond to it. Lastly, tape off the DoubleWall interstice in a way that is easily removable. 85 D-BLR-S Retrofit Dry fit the D-BLR-S insert to ensure it sits just under flush to the interior wall. Only lightly abrade the wall or insert contact face to make it fit right. 86 D-BLR-S Retrofit Apply a generous amount of epoxy to all contact surfaces. Be sure the masking tape is in place to protect the interstice opening. Contact points A-E are showing where on the insert, sump wall and pipe you should be applying epoxy to. This is the first and most critical step! Be generous with the epoxy and use it like contact cement, every two surfaces that will contact each other should be coated. 87 D-BLR-S Retrofit Install the insert and press it firmly to the sump wall and pipe. Epoxy should ooze out all over. Clean it up by scraping excess away with your wooden stir stick. 88 D-BLR-S Retrofit The face of the insert must be as flat as possible so that means no built up epoxy. Clean it up by scraping it away and flush with your wooden stir stick. With nearly no epoxy in the way, remove your tape. 89 D-BLR-S Retrofit CRITICAL! This is the first cure phase for this fitting. You must allow the epoxy to fully cure in this step before moving on to the next step. 90 D-BLR-S Retrofit Press the main split fitting firmly into place. Epoxy should ooze out all over. With gloves on, bead excess adhesive at the critical seams pointed out in the image. Before putting your clamps on for the cure, clean the face of the fitting with acetone. Just don’t remove epoxy at the seams indicated. 91 D-BLR-S Retrofit Install the pipe clamp to the fitting to hold them together. If more epoxy oozes out, clean it up and keep it looking new. Allow epoxy to fully cure. Then pressure/soap test all entry fittings at 4 PSI. 92 DoubleWall Retrofit Testing DO NOT WATER TEST A DOUBLEWALL SUMP MANDATORY PRESSURE TESTING: To test your Retrofit fitting installation after a full and complete epoxy cure time, conduct a pressure/soap test on all fittings with a focus on epoxy contact seams. Ensure your pressure line / source is properly regulated to the maximum value. For Bravo brand DoubleWall sumps: Maximum 4 PSI and minimum 20”hg Vacuum. For other brands: Consult manufacturer’s written guidelines for VPH testing. EXTENDED TESTING (RECOMMENDED): When extended testing is possible and you feel that it should be done, the following recommended guidelines are provided. The results and procedures are not supported by Bravo Technical Support unless the sumps are of Bravo manufacture. For any brand: A minimum 8 hour pressure test at the maximum PSI. Test per all local, state or federal codes or regulations. 93 D-INR-S Retrofit Single-Sided Retrofit for DoubleWall Sumps Designed for any brand of studded F.E.B. Handles 0-10° degree angles by default Three-step install / wall cutting required No excavation required Each fitting is “Kitted” with: Enough epoxy for every bonding operation All the required fitting clamps and zip-ties Emery sanding strip and sand paper Gloves, applicator brush and stir stick 94 D-INR-S Retrofit The D-INR-S requires the same wall-cutting as the D-BLR-S fitting. The main difference is that the first insert is installed backwards and the main body of the fitting is a two-stage operation. This fitting has two cure cycles. After removing the interior boot and cutting open the wall, make sure that the bolts are Pushed back or removed. Then abrade the exposed interior area and 3” away from the cut edge. Also abrade the conduit or pipe. 95 D-INR-S Retrofit All the same steps as with the D-BLR-S apply to this fitting. Always dry fit to check for clearance and fit. The D-INR-S insert should cover and seal over every one of the existing bolt holes. 96 D-INR-S Retrofit Just as with the D-BLR-S, apply epoxy to all contact surfaces. The epoxy seal to the pipe critical here so because its interior draft is reversed, when you apply it to the pipe the adhesive will ooze backwards. To ensure the epoxy stays put, you may consider stuffing the area just behind the wall with something so that you can pre-pack that area with epoxy. Firmly press them together against the wall and pipe. 97 D-INR-S Retrofit Clean up oozed epoxy and remove the tape protecting the interstice. Be sure to make sure the adhesive is sealed around the insert where it meets the pipe. Then secure the two halves together with the pipe clamp. CRITICAL! This is the first cure phase for this fitting. You must allow the epoxy to fully cure in this step before moving on to the next step. 98 D-INR-S Retrofit This fitting has an additional step. Because the two outer pieces are drafted to provide angle adjustability: you will need to rotate the two together in order to fit the existing pipe angle. Also, aligning the split seams of the two outer pieces should be avoided. Try to keep them around 90° degrees from each other if possible. Alignment stripe across all parts, and split seams of the Flange and Body components opposite from one another. When you dry-fit them you should always mark a orientation stripe across both these pieces and the wall so you can align them later during the bonding steps. 99 D-INR-S Retrofit Apply epoxy to all listed contact surfaces in this step. About 1/4” thick here. Notice for (D) you DO NOT apply any epoxy to the interior of the Flange. Apply to the wall in alignment with your marked stripe. Don’t wait for this to cure, move on to the next part. 100 D-INR-S Retrofit Apply epoxy to all listed contact surfaces and apply to the Flange. About 1/4” on A, B, C and D. With E filled in on conduit, or about 1/2” thick all around for pipe. Notice this time that for (D) that you DO apply epoxy to the interior area. Apply the Body to the Flange in alignment with your marked stripe. 101 D-INR-S Retrofit Use the provided pipe clamp to hold the fitting body together. A provided zip-tie holds the Flange together. Being careful not to move the fitting, clean excess epoxy if needed and then ensure the three critical seams have a heavy bead of epoxy on them. Allow all epoxy to fully cure before testing. 102 FLX-Series Retrofit Single-Sided Retrofit for Flexible Pipe & FRP sump Designed for any brand of studded F.E.B. Handles 0-10° degree angles by default No excavation required NOT Environ GeoFlex FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION! NUPI / UPP APT Polytech FlexWorks Pisces Co-Flex Each fitting is “Kitted” with: Epoxy for sump wall bonding only All the usual clamps, gloves, etc… Sold separately: Adhesive for bonding to the pipe 103 FLX-Series Retrofit Hand sand, dust off and clean the interior of both Bravo FRP sleeve halves. You will need to refer to our Flex Pipe ID chart document to help visually identify your pipe and determine the correct adhesive to use. Then GENEROUSLY apply the correct adhesive to both the sleeve interior and pipe, completely coating all contact surfaces. Clamp in place and allow a full cure time. Different adhesives must be used for Polyethylene and Nylon. Bravo epoxy works for PVDF exteriors but will fail on poly and nylon. 104 FLX-Series in action 105 Test Submission Write “SWAT” here: The answer sheet is found at www.sbravo.com/cert Download and print it, then write the name of the test you are taking at the very top. This is the SWAT test. Fill in all other information. This is a True / False test. Mark T or F in the fields provided on the answer sheet. When complete: FAX to: 323-205-3860 EMAIL to: [email protected] SNAP an image and email it to us SWAT 106 SWAT Test Questions 1) 2) 3) 4) 5) 6) This training program is not a substitute for Bravo product installation manuals. All Bravo DoubleWall sumps are made with an economy-grade resin and quality fillers to keep the cost down, have thick gel-coated interiors and are painted on the outside. You are permitted to gravity-feed, or pour interstitial fluid into the manometer until the sump interstice is full. All Bravo DoubleWall sumps use a Hydro-Pressure method where high pressure is used to push interstitial fluid and additional air into the sump interstice. The maximum positive test pressure for Bravo DoubleWall sumps is 4 psi. You can not fill Bravo DoubleWall sump interstices with any monitoring fluid other than Bravo supplied fluid. 107 SWAT Test Questions 7) 8) 9) You only need to test DoubleWall sumps with a pressure /soap test. The ALDP test is an advanced testing / troubleshooting technique exclusive to Bravo Systems DoubleWall containment sumps. Electrical offsets are available on both ends of a B-8000 series UDC. 10) A Bravo UDC is allowed to be hydrostatically tested while suspended in mid air 11) If no island form is used the frame of a UDC should be 1” above grade. 12) Bravo conversion frames only require 1/4” concrete anchor bolts. 108 SWAT Test Questions 13) It is okay to modify a Dispenser Conversion Frame without authorization. 14) The B-600 walkover transition sump should be set 1” above grade. 15) 16) 17) 18) When installing a Bravo tank sump the height adjustment must be made by trimming the bottom edge of the top sump half only. Two layers of fiberglass mat is enough to seal a tank sump to a tank collar. A minimum of 3/4” clearance is needed between the top of the tank sump lid and the bottom of the traffic cover. Lamination kits must be ordered separately for Bravo tank sumps. 109 SWAT Test Questions 19) SNAP-LOCK lids are rated to be water-tight under five feet of water. 20) Bravo SNAP-LOCK Retrofit lids can be installed to polyethylene tank sumps. 21) You have to break concrete to install a TITAN “drop-in” retrofit cover. 22) 23) 24) Steel / rebar reinforcement is not required to support the frame of the TITAN manway cover as long as concrete will be supporting it. The Bravo TITAN’s maximum load is 79,500 lbs, which exceeds the BS EN-124 C250, H-25 and H-20 standards making it stronger than all other covers on the market. When installing the F-Series full body fitting, you should only use the pipe manufacturer’s adhesive for the tapered joint of the secondary pipe. 110 SWAT Test Questions 25) All gel-coat or paint must be removed before bonding Bravo entry fittings to a sump wall. 26) Surface prep (abrading / cleaning) is required for any parts that contact each other. 27) It is okay to modify the F-Series full body fitting in the field. 28) The maximum torque for the test port on the F-Series full body fitting is 10 foot pounds. 29) Generous adhesive application is always emphasized for Bravo Retrofit fittings. 30) Bravo epoxy will bond to steel, PVC and fiberglass. 111 SWAT Test Questions 31) 32) 33) When the temperature is below 50°F degrees, you can double the hardener for Bravo epoxy. Bravo Retrofit-S fittings allow up to 20 degrees of pipe angle without modification. When installing any Bravo Retrofit, you should protect the piping when cutting or grinding. 34) Bravo Retrofit-S fittings are kitted for both flat and curved sump walls. 35) In-field modification of Bravo Retrofit fittings is not permitted. 36) Bravo epoxy will easily cure below 30°F degrees. 112 SWAT Test Questions 37) 38) 39) 40) Retrofit-S fittings can only be installed to OCAL Blue conduit manufactured before 1/1/2014 if the PVC jacket is stripped away first. Smith or Ameron adhesive is allowed when installing Bravo Retrofit fittings. You should always bracket conduit lines together when installing Retrofit fittings to them. On a DoubleWall sump, the interstitial fluid can remain in the sump walls while installing a Bravo Retrofit fitting. 41) Bravo Retrofit SD-AB fittings are kitted for both flat and curved sump walls. 42) You have to excavate in order to install the D-BLR-S style Retrofit fitting. 113 SWAT Test Questions 43) The snout (smaller O.D. end) of the D-INR-S split insert is installed facing the backfill. 44) The D-INR-S insert must cover and seal over every one of the existing bolt holes. 45) The orientation of the two main fitting components of the D-INR-S, is not really important. 46) Regarding gluing steps, both the D-BLR-S and D-INR-S have two separate cure cycles. 47) On the FLX retrofit, the FRP sleeve can be left out if it creates a clearance issue. 48) All flexible piping is made from the same type of plastic. 114 Certification Cards / Lookup Your certification card FRONT This Certification is valid for 3 years. The QR code can be scanned by a cell phone to lookup proof of certification. You can also save or print it as a PDF file. It links to: sbravo.com/contractors BACK Our system also notifies you via email when you are close to expiration. WWW.SBRAVO.COM