the SWAT Trainer PDF here

Transcription

BRAVO SWAT
TRAINING PROGRAM
[ SPECIAL WORKSHOP FOR ADVANCED TRAINING ]
Environmental Protection First
2
Products Covered
The Bravo SWAT test primarily focuses on DoubleWall containment
systems for use in California, along with some other common products.
 Under Dispenser Containment sumps
 Dispenser Conversion Frames
 Above Ground sumps
 Vent / Transition sumps
 Tank / Turbine sumps
 TITAN composite manway covers
 SNAP-LOCK turbine sump covers
 F-Series fittings for New Construction
 F-Series Retrofit fittings
The steps in this training program are not a substitute
for use of actual product installation manuals in the field.
Last Revised 11/11/14
The Bravo Mission
What we live by:
1) Lead the industry in the development of equipment to protect our
environment from future contamination of the soil, water and air.
2) Provide our customers with superior products and services by
decreasing their liability and increasing their profitability through
safety, and minimum maintenance while protecting the environment.
 Leaks are not an option
 Highest quality parts and materials
 Fiberglass products designed to perform up to 30 years
 Forward / backward compatibility of our products
 Friendly, helpful customer service unequaled in our industry
3
™
4
Bravo Systems meticulously engineers their products to be built right the first time. To do this
for our UDC Sumps, Transition Sumps, Tank Sumps and Fiberglass Penetration Fittings we
looked to the highest standard, Tanks. Since the Tank is the primary fuel vessel meant for
long-term storage, we copied it's specifications and built our Fiberglass products along those
same lines. Unlike other similar products out there, our choice of materials stands up to the test
of years of use, rather than the minimum testing requirements. In this way we have designed
our products to last the life of your station, as the Tank is meant to. Bravo Systems Single and
Double Wall Secondary Containment Systems truly are “Built like a Tank”.

Same Material Spec as Tanks – UL 1316

Designed for Long-term storage

Designed for maximum fuel compatibility


Designed to last the life of your station


Alternative Fuels up to E100 and B100
Vs.: the length of a compatibility test
Built right the first time
Bravo Corrosion Warranty
If it’s Bravo FRP, it can SOAK in
fuel for 30 years… under warranty.
sbravo.com/30year
Savings are often only considered in the now,
this quarter, this year. This means more $$$ in
your customer’s vault, right now. Saving
money makes sense on the forecourt or in the
C-store and can even help you win a bid. But
secondary containment systems are buried for
decades and no one should skimp on the
quality of products used for containing fuel.
True peace of mind comes later on, knowing
that the system you installed is secure. Bravo
products rarely need repairs and almost never
need replacement. Choosing Bravo eliminates
frequent maintenance and the need to replace
failing components.
Bravo is the only company in this industry that
focuses on eliminating unnecessary short and
long-term costs. We engineer every product to
last the life of the station with a zero-leak
standard that does not allow fuel releases or
water intrusion. Your success along with our
reputation for reliability is built on this policy.
5
6
Your Feedback is Valued
FOUNDED FOR YOU
Bravo was founded by Sergio Bravo, a service station technician that got sick and tired of all the
unsafe things he saw and experienced in the field. So carrying that over to today, a big part of our
product design comes from a goal of installer convenience and safety not just for the end users. But
we also attribute our success to the feedback, knowledge and insights our installers have provided
to us over the years. So our product design is influenced by your needs as an installer such as:
Ease of installation, required tools that are either readily available or provided, tool-swing
clearance, ease of access, ease of maintenance and rugged designs that you can trust and feel
confident in recommending to our mutual customers.
We don’t just pretend to listen though. We put your feedback to good use. In many cases, we get
off the phone with you and make a production change right away to improve a product. Every time
you give us a call with your problem and we solve it, it makes us a better company and helps to
influence our insight-in-design policy. Our quick response times has encouraged regulators and
inspectors to pick up the phone and contact us, knowing they will get answers or documentation
right away. Even when you might have an issue with a regulator we will contact them on your behalf
and get a grasp of the whole picture so we can smooth things out. Rest assured, we are involved
and are on top of things. You may have contributed to our reputation for “having the answers” which
has helped everyone place their trust in us and our company, so we thank you.
Please continue to reach out to us and communicate your needs and issues at any time!
7
Bravo’s DW Standard

Built like a Tank! Bravo DoubleWall sump walls have a compressive
resistance of 1300 PSI which means they do not “float” or separate
under liquid load

They are compatible with all conventional fuels including blended
fuels with up to E100 ethanol or E100 biodiesel or renewable diesel.

Translucent sump walls with no paint or gel-coat makes installation
far faster and advanced troubleshooting possible.
 Factory-installed combination pressure/vac gauge is used for all initial
testing, fluid filling, pre and post-backfill testing and troubleshooting.
 Immediately following manufacture, all sumps are placed under a
continuous 20 Hg+ vacuum / quality test all the way through shipping
so you can feel confident in the integrity of each sump.
 The maximum positive test pressure is 4 psi and should be regulated.
4 psi is also used for soap testing installed entry fittings or laminations.
 Food-grade and non-toxic Propylene Glycol interstitial fluid is included
with each sump. Using another brand of propylene glycol, true brine
(sodium chloride solution), or plain water will void the warranty.
8
Hydro/ Vac Filling
Basically, you are filling the sump by pulling the interstitial
fluid in from the lowest point with a vacuum. Why?
1)
It eliminates virtually all air from the interstice so the liquid
won’t trap air that will later burp out and cause false alarms.
2)
It significantly speeds up the filling process. See the B-9000
UDC sump on the right? 30 seconds to fill.
Setup consists of filling a bucket with fluid, having an air
supply ready, connecting an additional Ball valve and
extended tubing to the factory-installed line opposite that
of the gauge then priming the input line with fluid.
Simple process:
A)
Pull a vacuum of 25 Hg through the gauge with our air-driven
venturi generator and continue throughout the fill.
B)
Open the ball valve slowly at first then open it up and watch the
liquid evenly rise until its almost to the top. Then conduct the
Bravo ALDP. (next slide)
NO GRAVITY FILLING! Yes, this means that you are not
permitted to simply pour fluid in from the top. You must Hydro-Vac
fill, then you can fill the reservoir manually at the end.
REFER TO MANUALS FOR DETAILED INSTRUCTIONS
MIN 1 PER SITE: VAC-KIT-D-AB
9
Bravo ALDP
Advanced Leak Detection Procedure
This procedure was developed to significantly speed
up leak finding during construction. It is a mandatory
installation step and is exclusive to Bravo sumps since
no paint or gel-coat obstructs visual inspection even
when buried.
On the tail end of the Hydro/vac filling procedure, when
the liquid level is about 2-4 inches from the very top of
the interstice, close the ball valve leading to the liquid
source.
With the source ball valve closed, simply re-apply a
hard vacuum of 20+ Hg via the test gauge.
Wait 5 minutes or so, then closely inspect the interior
walls to look for trails of bubbles traveling upwards
within the interstice. By following any trails down, you
can find any leak points with accuracy.
NOTE: the ALDP has limited accuracy if the backfill is
waterlogged as it relies on pulling air into the interstice.
10
Under Dispenser Containment
B-8000 & B-9000 Series
 Tailored to virtually any dispenser model
 Interchangeable dispenser frame allows easy
and low cost future upgrades without digging
or replacement
 Galvannealed & epoxy-coated steel structure
with positive concrete anchoring
 Electrical offset option on one side
 B-8000 designed for narrow island forms
 B-9000 designed for flex line sweeps and
internal volume is ~ 70% greater than 8000
Find these and more at www.sbravo.com/udc
11
Installation
Inspect for damage and that gauge reads 12+ Hg vacuum.
If the gauge reads less than 12” Hg, it is usually caused by the gauge
assembly or tubing assemblies. Call 1-800-AT-BRAVO and report your issue.
Note the A and B sides that designate Junction Box sides. Orient, level and
secure the UDC at target location and support it with pea gravel. If an islandless site, the target height should be 1/4” above the driveway grade.
Remove the Dispenser Frame and set aside. Install SVA-BARB to the gauges.
Install conduit by sweeping up on the offset window side of the UDC and
secure in place with provided Bravo pipe clamps to the exterior C-Channel.
VACUUM  0  PRESSURE
SVA-BARB
12
Installation
Mark planned entry locations for piping, drill holes and install entry fittings.
After entry fittings are installed and completely cured, Pressure/soap test
each entry fitting inside and outside. Use 4 PSI and keep fitting interior clean.
If they pass, keep going. If there are leaks, contact the factory and report.
Install and test all primary and secondary piping, flexes, Brackets and shear
valves. Then Hydro/vac fill and conduct the ALDP test if liquid monitoring.
After a successful ALDP test, cut tubing ends and connect to manometers.
Re-verify the grade line. Apply a bead of Vulkem 116 sealant to the top flange
of the UDC on the exterior of bolt holes and bolt the Dispenser Frame on.
Backfill around the UDC and pour concrete.
13
Sealing the EO area
14
Bravo Conversion Frame
SINCE
1991
SWRCB APPROVED
UDSCCS DEVICE
Only database in existence of
conversions – Over 30,000
Tailored to most dispensers
Including the existing UDC
Dispenser Conversion Frame = DCF
Structural ultra-rigid design
provides safe foundation
Drainage louvers ensure
compliant fuel containment
Find this product at www.sbravo.com/conv
15
Installation
Features:



Allows upgrade from or to nearly any dispenser
Provides reinforced structural support & safety
Drainage panels ensure fuel containment
Installation:
Utilize existing bolts or install new ones if compromised.
A minimum of Four 1/2” bolts should be used. Bravo
provides high grade hex bolts, zinc nuts and washers for
securing the dispenser to the conversion frame. Black
plugs are also provided and are used to plug top holes.
Observe current ADA requirements. www.ada.gov
There exist certain situations where existing electrical
conduits are located just outside or inside the UDC wall
which would interfere with Conversion Frame installation
without modification. The new Conversion Frame order
form asks if this is the case with your job site. A Bravo
retrofit solution is available and even modification of the
conversion frame is Approved by the SWRCB. However,
you cannot modify the frame until conditions have been
met and we have released an authorization letter to you.
1 and 2 show examples of possible installation
issues. You check one or both off on the form.
16
Above Ground UDC
B-8600 / B-8600-SS
 Fire-rated UDC for AST sites or Marinas
 Galvannealed epoxy-coated steel or stainless
 Standard model features low-point reservoir for
mechanical shear valve shut-off assembly
 Tailored to most commercial dispensers
 Above ground Transition sump and models for
PMC and Wayne S1 dispenser also available
Installation:
Install 1/2” bolts into concrete matching bolt pattern.
Bolt to concrete, install piping and secure dispenser to it.
If using float-trip system, install and connect chain to shear
valve trip. Test actuation with water. Remove all liquid after.
Observe current ADA requirements. www.ada.gov
17
Transition Sumps
 Retail or Commercial sizes have options for standard
pass-through compression fittings for 2” diameter
risers. All feature optional riser rack systems.
 B-500 features standard raised cover and should be
installed with top of cover 2” above finish floor.
 B-600 features interior water-drainage system beneath
the diamond-plate cover which should be installed with
cover 1” above finish floor with sloped concrete.
 B-500 / 600 models can support up to 3” piping.
 B-600 Commercial models are larger and can support
up to 4” piping.
Installation:
Inspect for damage and that gauge reads 12+ Hg vacuum.
Secure atop a bed of pea gravel at specified elevation.
Install entry fittings and piping. 1/2 turn max on AST fittings.
Liquid fill + ALDP or vacuum monitor.
Backfill and concrete in at the top.
Easily drop-in rack system and tighten all fasteners.
18
Tank / Turbine Sumps
 Three common configurations available.
 400-MW “Tall Collar” saves time in field since
lower half is installed by tank manufacturer.
Begin piping as soon as the tank is set.
 Optional latched compression covers.
 Lamination and paste kits are included.
 New SNAP-LOCK cover option available
for turbine sumps
B-401-XT “Collar Mount”
B-400-MW
“Tall Collar”
Installation:
401-XT…….. Laminate lower & upper half to tank collar.
400-MW…… Laminate upper half to tall collar.
409............... Install to tank with tank bung fitting
or use as a transition sump.
Install entry fittings and piping.
To adjust overall height, only cut difference to grade
from the bottom edge of the top half.
Liquid fill + ALDP or vacuum monitor.
Backfill and concrete in with a manway, maintaining a
minimum 1-1/2” clearance between top of sump cover
and bottom of traffic cover.
B-409 Transition
19
Lamination Joints
Lamination consists of these simple steps:
1)
Surface prep. All paint, gel-coat or
contaminants must be removed.
2)
DoubleWall joints are butt-joints, so
tape them off inside and outside with
masking or duct tape.
3)
Apply FRP paste over the tape to
provide a smooth transition.
4)
Using lamination “patches”, laminate
four layers of resin-saturated mat
centered on each joint seam 360°
around, inside and outside.
20
How to Laminate
We have a Video on how to make
the perfect lamination. See it at
sbravo.com/videos
 Pre-cut 6” wide mat into 24” lengths.
 Mix / catalyze resin in blue bucket.
 Use paint roller to wet out one layer
of mat at a time on clean cardboard.
 Add a second layer of mat to the first
and stagger ONE INCH. Wet it out.
 Repeat for the third and fourth layers.
 Then roll all the air bubbles out of
each 4-layer fiberglass patch with the
provided Chamfer Roller.
 Apply patches to clean sump walls
and roll in place with Chamfer Roller.
Add each patch to the first with a
FOUR INCH overlap.
RULES:
Paint roller is used for mat wet-out and flow coating only.
Chamfer roller used for air-removal and applying patches.
21
Manway Covers
Maximum load:
79,500 lbs
Exceeds EN-124 C load
rating of: 56,200 lbs
No issues with
snow plows !
Exceeds H-25 rating of:
20,000 lbs
Some covers don’t even
meet the H-20 rating of:
16,000 lbs
22
Installation
New Construction (cover and skirt)
 Minimum 2 layers of steel rebar reinforcement per
engineering specs or regulatory codes, 360° around the
manway, placed directly under the structural flange (top of
frame) at grade.
 Minimum 8” concrete depth around skirt, from grade
 Maximum 12” concrete depth around skirt, from grade
 Approximately 1/4” per foot of concrete sloped down and
away from edge of manway.
 Minimum 1-1/2” clearance between top of sump cover and
bottom of traffic cover.
old steel cover with frame lifting up
Retrofit Cover and Skirt
 Cut 86” x 86” square hole around existing cover.
 Secure at target elevation.
 Install sixteen (16) 24” long, 1/2” diameter dowels 12” deep
into existing concrete, 20” on-center from each other.
 Install steel reinforcement as if new construction.
 Concrete in with a 1/4” to 1/2” expansion joint.
For Water-Tight models, the o-ring is easily serviceable.
Drop-In Retrofit (cover only)
 Drop TITAN into existing frame
New 42” TITAN showing steel reinforcement
SNAP-LOCK Retrofit Cover
 Makes Twist-lock covers obsolete!
 Ultra-easy to open / close – no tools!
 Vertical high-pressure O-ring seal
 Stays sealed against 5 feet of water
 Installation via Lamination seal
 For Fiberglass tank sumps only
NOTE: Not for Bravo brand DoubleWall Tank
sumps. May apply to other manufacturers.
23
FRP Fittings Basics
24
There are specific yet simple rules to always follow when bonding Bravo fiberglass fittings.
 Any Contact Surfaces that are to be bonded together must be sanded. In the case of
fiberglass sumps, sanded until there is open fiberglass. If there is paint or gel-coat, it must
be removed. For galvanized or PVC-coated conduit, the surfaces must still be abraded.
 Before installation, the Contact Surface of FRP pipe should be hand-sanded to take some
–but not all– of the sheen / gloss off. A standard taper tool is used for the secondary pipe.
 FRP epoxy will bond FRP to FRP, PVC or Steel only if the Contact Surfaces have been
properly abraded. FRP epoxy will not bond FRP to polyethylene or nylon materials. Bravo
epoxy can be used on all bonding / injection steps EXCEPT joints that SEAL the primary pipe.
 An Epoxy bond between any number of Contact Surfaces WILL fail if the surface is dusty,
dirty or wet. Maybe immediately, maybe later. Even if there are fingerprints all over the
surfaces. Don’t chance it. Use clean gloves to handle FRP entry fittings.
 For the reason above, all Contact Surfaces should be clean and dry at all times during the
installation. If fittings have been kicked around in the backfill, they must be dusted off and
Contact Surfaces should be lightly hand-sanded and cleaned with acetone to ensure there is
no surface contamination or moisture present before bonding.
Abrading Pipe / Conduit
Bravo provides a length of
emery cloth with every FRP
entry fitting to help you get the
job done faster and better.
Loop the strip under your pipe
or conduit to easily and
thoroughly sand the underside.
Sand the top with regular
sandpaper or if you are in a tank
sump, just adjust your emery
strip angle.
25
Epoxy Mixing
26
Bravo epoxy is pre-thickened and has a bright yellow colorant in it. When it is
thoroughly mixed, it will be a consistent bright yellow color. If it is not mixed well,
you will see grey lumps and other inconsistencies. “Retrofit” epoxy is thick like
cake frosting or peanut butter; perfect for installing fitting parts to walls.
KEEP IN A COOL, DRY PLACE OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT UNTIL NEEDED
STILL LUMPY – NOT MIXED YET
CREAMY YELLOW – FULLY MIXED
Cold Weather Directions
27
Cold Weather Directions
28
29
All-FRP Entry Fittings
For New Construction
All-Fiberglass F-Series “Full Body”
entry for Product and Conduit
 “Tank-Spec” fiberglass with integrated
external flange and loose interior flange
 Size over size for 2”, 3”, 4” & 6” FRP pipe
 Conduit models for 3/4” and 1” galvanized or
PVC-coated conduit
F-32-TS-T-D
 Dual test ports at 9 and 6 ‘o-clock with plug &
shrader valve included
 Pipe / conduit sealed via adhesive injection
 Secondary has a standard tapered joint
 LCX models can pass through or terminate
secondary within fitting
 Grounding Rod model with factory-installed naval
brass rod includes a pair of grounding clamps
F-10-SS
F-17-GR
30
Cross Section
Epoxy
Injection
Port
Secondary
Epoxy
Wraparound
area
Primary
6 ‘o-clock
Test port
Sump
Interior
Sump
Exterior
31
F-Series Standard
All F-Series “Full Body” fittings are bonded to an FRP sump with epoxy. Size over Size
models feature a standard taper socket for the secondary pipe and an injection port to
wrap epoxy around the primary pipe. Models for LCX and electrical conduit require epoxy
injection on both sides of the wall.
Orientation of the injection port is
important. With the Injection port
at the 12 o-clock position, the test
ports will be at 9 and 6 o-clock.
The Standard F-Series has one
body and one flange. It is a 0°
angle fitting but wall grinding
along with the draft of a sump
wall can help you reach about
2° degrees of angle.
The provided rubber boot for the
electrical fitting is filled with a
separate 2-part epoxy which
encapsulates the fitting and
conduit on the exterior.
INJECTION
PORT AT
12 O-CLOCK
32
F-Series ADJ
The F-Series-ADJ (Adjustable) has one body, two angled flanges and a regular flange. It is a
0-10° angle fitting. You get 10° by rotating the angled flanges together. They stack up on the
outside of the sump wall.
INJECTION
PORT AT
12 O-CLOCK
33
Installation
HOLE SAW SIZES:
For all conduit fittings: 2-1/2” Hole Saw
AIR GRINDER
SEPARATE OF
SANDING KITS
For 3”x 2” fittings: 4-1/2” Hole Saw
For 4” x 3” fittings: 5-1/2” Hole Saw
Bravo sells a self-centralizing Sanding Kit to help
you quickly and accurately abrade the correct area
on the sump wall after a hole saw cut. For flat wall
sumps only.
SVA-BARB
Also, always before bonding a Fiberglass fitting to a
DoubleWall sump, install the SVA-BARB to the
shrader port of the combination gauge, or vent the
sump interstice to the open air. This is so that no
pressure builds up while you are bonding entry
fittings to the sump, potentially causing a blow-out
and leak.
34
Installation
To install fittings, drill correct hole saw size. make sure all parts are clean and apply epoxy
to all contact surfaces. Then install to wall and clamp in place. Clean up excess epoxy.
OUTSIDE
INSIDE
35
Installation
Below an installer inserts the epoxy-coated end of
a tapered secondary pipe into the socket of the
F-Series ADJ fitting.
Then the Injection step is done. A label on the
provided syringe tells you where to fill it.
When injecting epoxy on LCX, or conduit fittings,
you must inject the EXTERIOR port first. Treat the
INTERIOR port like it is a second operation.
36
Installation
For size over size fittings, your fitting kit
includes a shrader valve and a brass hex
plug. Install both by hand with UL thread
paste into the steel coupler of your choice.
Then install the brass hex plug into the
opposite port. You will need to plug both of
these ports off before you can test your
secondary lines.
DO NOT USE OTHER THREADED
COMPONENTS.
DO NOT use thread tape. DO NOT torque
more than 10 ft lbs.
Models available for OmegaFlex and
BRUGG brand piping.
37
F-Series in action
38
FRP Retrofit Fitting Basics
Why a Retrofit vs: Repair fitting? “Repair fittings” as the industry knows them have a proven reputation of failure
and need to be replaced and repaired again, and again. Some customers jump from brand to brand in the hopes
they can seal up these entry points. Instead, we purposefully call them Retrofit Fittings because we are
completely replacing the old product with something entirely different. These are built (and warranted) to be
submerged in fuel, indefinitely. Give the boots, the boot.
RETROFIT BASICS:
Ensure the containment sumps are made only of fiberglass. Bravo
does not support polyethylene sumps of any make/model.

Ensure the piping is fiberglass, galvanized or PVC-coated RobRoy
or OCAL conduit.
[

]
In addition to the basic rules for FRP fittings covered earlier, on-site
evaluation is required.
How to I.D. the OCAL manuf. date

Only Bravo brand Epoxy Kits are permitted to install Retrofit fittings.
The 5th and 6th characters after @
call out the year. If this is “14”
you are good for both new
construction and retrofits.

If the existing conduit is OCAL Blue brand and it was manufactured
before 1/1/2014, you need to remove it’s PVC jacket at the bond point,
bond directly to the steel, and re-coat any exposed steel.

If the conduit is compromised or rusted through, replace it. Bond only
to areas with mild surface corrosion but sand and clean these areas first.

PLAN AND MAINTAIN A MINIMUM 1/2” of contact between any two surfaces.
39
Retrofit-S
FITTINGS
Retrofit-S
Single-Sided Retrofit for SingleWall Sumps
 Handles 0-20° degree angles by default
 Extremely low profile, all fittings
less than 2” tall
 No excavation required to install
 For flat or round sumps
 Field modification permitted
Each fitting is “Kitted” with:
 Enough epoxy for every bonding operation
 An additional split flange for curved sump walls
 All the required fitting clamps and zip-ties
 Emery sanding strip and sand paper
 Gloves, applicator brush and stir stick
40
41
Retrofit-S
The Retrofit-S fitting consists of one split fitting with one cure cycle.
Interior bolts
Remove the interior
components of the
existing flexible
entry boot
Interior boot
Retrofit-S
42
Protect the pipe
appropriately while
working.
Push back or
cut down bolts
Protect pipe or
conduit from
damage
Push the bolts back into
the backfill. Otherwise,
Cut and grind the bolts
down.
The studs should be
ground just under flush
with the wall.
Always monitor LEL
while grinding!!
Retrofit-S
43
Abrade the sump wall
around the opening from
the pipe 3”out.
3”
3”
ABRADE
All paint or gel coat
must be removed,
exposing clean open
fiberglass.
SECURING CONDUITS
Before installing the
retrofit fitting the conduits
should be secured to
either each other or the
riser pipe, only.
Retrofit-S
STRIPE
mark across the
wall and all
components
DRY FIT
ONLY
44
Dry fit all components
before mixing the
epoxy.
Use a permanent
marker to mark a
stripe across all
components including
the wall and the pipe
to use as an alignment
guide.
SECURE ALL
CONDUIT LINES TO
EACH OTHER OR TO
THE RISER.
Retrofit-S
ADHESIVE
APPLIED TO
ALL CONTACT
SURFACES
45
If your sump wall is
curved, install the curved
flange to the wall first. If
your walls are flat, hide or
throw this piece away so
nobody accidentally
installs it.
Generously apply epoxy
to all contact surfaces
and firmly press the
flange against the wall.
This insert does not bond
to the pipe, only the wall.
You don’t have to wait for
the curved flange to cure,
keep installing.
Retrofit-S
46
Apply epoxy to all contact
surfaces.
Don’t EVER forget the
surfaces at the split
between both halves.
FILL IN THE INTERIOR
This is possible on the
conduit models.
This side
contacts
the wall
For 2” pipe models and
larger, you want about 1/2”
or more of adhesive
applied to the interior
surfaces.
Retrofit-S
ADHESIVE APPLIED TO
ALL CONTACT SURFACES
APPLY ADHESIVE TO THE
SURFACES THAT CONTACT
EACH OTHER AT THE SPLIT
PACK INTERIOR OF FITTING
HEAVILY WITH ADHESIVE
47
Make sure there is some
epoxy applied to the wall
before installing main split
fitting body.
NOTE: The curved flange
isn’t needed if the wall is
flat. Toss it!
Be sure to apply plenty of
epoxy to the interior draft
feature, nearly filling it.
Press the fitting body
firmly into place using the
alignment stripe as a guide.
Retrofit-S
BEAD ADHESIVE
HEAVILY ON ALL SEAMS
360° DEGREES
AROUND FITTING
48
Use the included hose
clamp to secure the two
haves of the fitting body
together during cure.
Bead the epoxy that
oozes out around all
seams with a gloved
finger.
PIPE CLAMP
SECURE YOUR FITTING
BODY TOGETHER.
RECOMMENDED:
Clean the face of the
fitting with acetone to
make it look presentable
but do not wipe epoxy
away from the primary
seams at wall and pipe.
Retrofit-S
The Bravo Epoxy Cure
Time Chart shown on an
earlier slide is affixed right
to the epoxy can, so refer
to it to plan a full cure time.
Then water test per all local
codes and regulations.
49
Retrofit-S in action
3” and 2” Retrofit models
2” Retrofit on curved sump
with Offset Plate
An offset plate is a split piece of FRP wall with
a hole in the center that helps create a good
bonding surface if say, the existing entry fitting
was oversized and its hole was too large.
50
Retrofit-S in action
Size over Size (3x2)
Close proximity
and high angle entry
51
Modification for
close-proximity piping
These two 3/4” conduits
are less than 1” apart and
set at a 35° angle. The
Retrofit-S fittings can
handle more angle and
even if the piping is closer
together or farther apart.
Multiple conduits this close
should be braced /secured
together so that they can’t
move during installation
and cure of the retrofit
fittings.
52
Modification for
Use of a
protractor helps
determine the
angle from the
wall.
With one of
these, you can
determine pipe
angle from atop
the pad, without
entering the
sump yet.
53
Modification for
Inspect the wall
and sand off any
remaining
sealants, paint
or gel coat.
Remember the
fiberglass entry
fitting basics,
abrade and clean
all contact
surfaces.
Air grinders only!
54
Modification for
Surface prep
continued.
Whether you have
pipe or conduit,
rough them up
360° around at the
bonding areas
with the included
emery cloth.
Also sand off any
surface corrosion
so you can get a
clean bond.
55
Modification for
You will likely
be modifying
standard models.
Notice that the
openings for
these conduit
fittings are 5”
on center.
Time for some
dry-fitting.
56
Modification for
Plan your cuts
well and make as
few as possible.
The outer two will
mostly keep their
shape.
In this scenario,
you will need to
modify the inner
halves to bring
those on-center
holes close
enough to match
the existing
conduit.
57
Modification for
Dry-fit your split fittings
on the piping as shown.
Then measure the gap
between the two fitting
halves.
Using this technique we
will only need to take
this one measurement to
know how to cut our
fittings.
Our gap is 1-3/4”
58
Modification for
Now take that 1-3/4”
measurement and
divide the number by
half and mark that
distance outwards
from centerline in
both directions.
Mark your cuts well.
Remember that you
are planning your
cuts in line with the
split line.
SPLIT LINE
59
Modification for
A wet tile saw
works best to cut
the fitting but a
chop saw with the
appropriate blade
or a cut off wheel
will work.
You want clean,
straight cuts.
60
Modification for
Now you have one
cut fitting and one
un-modified fitting.
Here is the one
fitting cut up.
The wet tile saw
really does make
the cleanest cuts.
61
Modification for
Rotate the center
pieces of the cut
fitting so the pipe
openings face each
other and place
them between the
two halves of your
un-modified fitting.
You should now
have a custom fit
Retrofit solution
that matches your
application.
62
Modification for
Dry fit all parts of
your custom fitting
to see if further
modification is
needed to match
the angle of the
pipe / conduit.
You also need
your fittings to all
contact the wall.
63
Modification for
Mark the sections
you think need to be
opened up to allow
the fitting to mount
flush to the sump
wall.
Don’t be afraid to
grind out more than
is necessary since
we are gap-filling
with epoxy anyways.
Just don’t thin any
areas out so much
That they will break.
64
Modification for
Grind out the areas you
marked, dust it off and
dry fit again.
Repeat this process until
the fitting rests flush with
the sump wall, allowing the
angled pipes to pass
through the fitting easily.
Sounds like a lot of work.
But you should never need
to revisit sumps again if
you install Bravo Retrofits.
65
Modification for
Now we have a set
of fully modified
Retrofit fittings
that exactly match
the application.
The grinding does
not need to be
even since again,
the epoxy will fill
all the voids and
contours, making
it a solid mass of
fuel-rated FRP
and epoxy.
66
Modification for
Make sure to do
a final dry fit.
Note that the fitting
pieces are flush with
the sump wall and
the conduits pass
through the fitting
easily.
See that the top hole
even appears to be
too big? No problem.
Let’s bond this thing
in place.
67
Modification for
Before we get messy here,
remember that this Retrofit-S
fitting is for SingleWall
sumps. No risk of interstice
close-off so go heavy.
Apply a GENEROUS amount
of the Bravo Retrofit Epoxy
to the prepared sump wall
and the conduits. Make sure
that you displace any air
between the pipes / conduits
by packing that area with
epoxy.
68
Modification for
Now apply epoxy
generously to all
the fitting parts.
Pay special
attention to the
drafted portion on
the interior that the
pipe / conduit
passes through.
This should be
packed solid with
epoxy.
Correct amount of
epoxy: HEAVY
69
Modification for
Press your fitting components
firmly in place and push hard.
You want to get the fittings as
flat against the wall and each
other as possible.
This should squeeze out a
lot of epoxy. A hose clamp
or zip-tie can be used to
draw the components
together while they cure.
Make sure you don’t disturb the
conduit or pipe while exiting
the sump.
70
Modification for
Clean up the
excess epoxy.
Acetone can be
used to clean up
epoxy before it
cures without
damaging the
install.
71
Modification for
End result: 40 degree angle conduits less than 1” apart.
72
73
DoubleWall Retrofit Rules
There are five additional rules that must be followed before an entry fitting
Retrofit is installed to a DoubleWall sump.
These apply to the F-Series Retrofit SD-AB, D-BLR-S and D-INR-S fittings.
Ventilate sump with SVA-BARB.
SD-AB Retrofit
Double-Sided Retrofit for DoubleWall Sumps
 Low profile, all fittings less than 2” tall
 Separate models for flat / round sumps
 Field modification permitted
 Excavation required to access
exterior of sump
Each fitting is “Kitted” and includes:
74
SD-AB Retrofit
75
The Retrofit SD-AB fitting consists of two split fittings with one cure
cycle each, but you can install them together as quickly as you like.
The SD-AB is
basically a double
sided version of the
Retrofit-S fittings.
Exterior boot
Remove the entire
existing flexible
entry boot.
Interior
boot
Also remove any
studded rings, bolts,
or housings. It all
has to go.
SD-AB Retrofit
Installation is simple,
clean, abrade, apply
adhesive, bond to
components and let
cure.
Make sure to first dry fit
all components to make
sure the minimum
contact rule is being
met and the fittings rest
flush against the walls.
76
SD-AB Retrofit
77
BEAD ADHESIVE
HEAVILY ON BOTH
CRITICAL SEAMS
Clean the face of the fitting with
acetone and rags to make it
look like a new install fitting.
Install pipe clamps to hold the
halves together.
Bead the epoxy that oozes out
around all seams with a gloved
finger. Add more epoxy to the
critical seams if they need it.
Allow a full cure before testing.
PIPE CLAMP
Then pressure/soap test all
entry fittings at 4 PSI.
SD-AB In Action
This image shows a 3-point
“Pusher clamp”. We have
discontinued these.
Interior views are not shown here because
they would look identical since same fitting
parts are installed on both sides.
78
79
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Single-Sided Retrofit for DoubleWall Sumps
 Designed for Blue Line Kwik-Fit entries
 Low profile, all fittings less than 2” tall
 Two-step install / wall cutting required
 No excavation required
80
D-BLR-S Retrofit
It sounds too good to be true right? No excavation, no disconnecting pipe, no
rubber, no metal, no caulk, no goop, no leaks. No, It’s true.
But the D-BLR-S and D-INR-S Retrofit fittings come with a little more risk than
your typical repair boots. So let us be perfectly clear here.
To install these entry fittings to a DoubleWall sump, a small and controlled
portion of the wall facing you must be cut out. It’s not a hole saw cut. Instead it
must be routered out carefully with a controlled depth. We provide the tools for
this - but even though unlikely - the risks are:
 You may accidentally penetrate the OUTER wall, requiring unplanned excavation and
sump repair or replacement.
 You may accidentally damage either the secondary or primary pipe lines. These are
designed to be installed with the station in operation so the risk to the primary line in
particular is a big concern.
Fully understanding how these are installed is the best way to avoid either of these issues.
81
D-BLR-S Retrofit
This fitting consists of two split fittings and each one has its own independent cure cycle.
NOTE: The interior insert must fully cure before the main body can be bonded.
You will remove the interior portion of the boot, hub and anything else.
If the boot is gone and backfill is pouring in, plug the area off with rags or backer-rod. Make
sure nothing will push inward at a later time. If water is pouring in, stop all water intrusion
first. Call Bravo for guidelines and to order products to stop the flow of water completely.
82
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Dry fit your insert to the pipe and
wall and trace an outline around it
with a permanent marker.
Use the Bravo wall cutting tool with
adjusted depth gauge to cut out the
marked shape from the interior wall
only. Then remove any pieces of wall
still attached. Don’t use sharp tools.
83
D-BLR-S Retrofit
After removing the cut out wall portion, scrape out all remaining FRP
fabric remnants and abrade this interior area until it is clean and flat.
84
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Abrade the inner wall about 3” outwards from the new edge you just cut in
the sump wall. While grinding take care to protect the pipe. You also need to
abrade the pipe / conduit where the fitting will bond to it. Lastly, tape off the
DoubleWall interstice in a way that is easily removable.
85
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Dry fit the D-BLR-S insert to ensure it sits just under flush to the interior
wall. Only lightly abrade the wall or insert contact face to make it fit right.
86
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Apply a generous amount of
epoxy to all contact surfaces.
Be sure the masking tape is
in place to protect the
interstice opening.
Contact points A-E are
showing where on the insert,
sump wall and pipe you
should be applying epoxy to.
This is the first and most
critical step! Be generous
with the epoxy and use it like
contact cement, every two
surfaces that will contact
each other should be coated.
87
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Install the insert
and press it
firmly to the
sump wall and
pipe. Epoxy
should ooze out
all over.
Clean it up by
scraping excess
away with your
wooden stir stick.
88
D-BLR-S Retrofit
The face of the
insert must be as
flat as possible so
that means no
built up epoxy.
Clean it up by
scraping it away
and flush with
your wooden stir
stick.
With nearly no
epoxy in the way,
remove your tape.
89
D-BLR-S Retrofit
CRITICAL!
This is the first cure
phase for this fitting.
You must allow the
epoxy to fully cure
in this step before
moving on to the
next step.
90
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Press the main split
fitting firmly into place.
Epoxy should ooze out
all over.
With gloves on, bead
excess adhesive at the
critical seams pointed
out in the image.
Before putting your
clamps on for the cure,
clean the face of the
fitting with acetone. Just
don’t remove epoxy at
the seams indicated.
91
D-BLR-S Retrofit
Install the pipe clamp to
the fitting to hold them
together.
If more epoxy oozes out,
clean it up and keep it
looking new.
Allow epoxy to fully cure.
Then pressure/soap test all
entry fittings at 4 PSI.
92
DoubleWall Retrofit Testing
DO NOT WATER TEST A DOUBLEWALL SUMP
MANDATORY PRESSURE TESTING:
To test your Retrofit fitting installation after a full and complete epoxy cure time, conduct a
pressure/soap test on all fittings with a focus on epoxy contact seams. Ensure your pressure
line / source is properly regulated to the maximum value.
For Bravo brand DoubleWall sumps: Maximum 4 PSI and minimum 20”hg Vacuum.
For other brands: Consult manufacturer’s written guidelines for VPH testing.
EXTENDED TESTING (RECOMMENDED):
When extended testing is possible and you feel that it should be done, the following
recommended guidelines are provided. The results and procedures are not supported
by Bravo Technical Support unless the sumps are of Bravo manufacture.
For any brand: A minimum 8 hour pressure test at the maximum PSI.
Test per all local, state or federal codes or regulations.
93
D-INR-S Retrofit
Single-Sided Retrofit for DoubleWall Sumps
 Designed for any brand of studded F.E.B.
 Three-step install / wall cutting required
94
D-INR-S Retrofit
The D-INR-S requires the same wall-cutting as the D-BLR-S fitting. The main
difference is that the first insert is installed backwards and the main body of the
fitting is a two-stage operation. This fitting has two cure cycles.
After removing the
interior boot and
cutting open the
wall, make sure that
the bolts are
Pushed back or
removed.
Then abrade the
exposed interior
area and 3” away
from the cut edge.
Also abrade the
conduit or pipe.
95
D-INR-S Retrofit
All the same steps as with the D-BLR-S apply to this fitting.
Always dry fit to check for clearance and fit.
The D-INR-S insert
should cover and
seal over every one
of the existing bolt
holes.
96
D-INR-S Retrofit
Just as with the D-BLR-S, apply
epoxy to all contact surfaces.
The epoxy seal to the pipe critical
here so because its interior draft is
reversed, when you apply it to the
pipe the adhesive will ooze
backwards.
To ensure the epoxy stays put, you
may consider stuffing the area just
behind the wall with something so
that you can pre-pack that area
with epoxy.
Firmly press them together against
the wall and pipe.
97
D-INR-S Retrofit
Clean up oozed epoxy
and remove the tape
protecting the interstice.
Be sure to make sure the
adhesive is sealed around the
insert where it meets the pipe.
Then secure the two halves
together with the pipe clamp.
CRITICAL! This is the first
cure phase for this fitting.
You must allow the epoxy to fully
cure in this step before moving on
to the next step.
98
D-INR-S Retrofit
This fitting has an additional step.
Because the two outer pieces are
drafted to provide angle adjustability:
you will need to rotate the two together
in order to fit the existing pipe angle.
Also, aligning the split seams of the
two outer pieces should be avoided.
Try to keep them around 90° degrees
from each other if possible.
Alignment stripe
across all parts, and
split seams of the
Flange and Body
components opposite
from one another.
When you dry-fit them you should
always mark a orientation stripe across
both these pieces and the wall so you
can align them later during the bonding
steps.
99
D-INR-S Retrofit
Apply epoxy to all listed contact surfaces
in this step. About 1/4” thick here.
Notice for (D) you DO NOT apply any
epoxy to the interior of the Flange.
Apply to the wall in alignment with your
marked stripe. Don’t wait for this to cure,
move on to the next part.
100
D-INR-S Retrofit
Apply epoxy to all listed contact surfaces
and apply to the Flange. About 1/4” on A,
B, C and D. With E filled in on conduit, or
about 1/2” thick all around for pipe.
Notice this time that for (D) that you DO
apply epoxy to the interior area.
Apply the Body to the Flange in alignment
with your marked stripe.
101
D-INR-S Retrofit
Use the provided pipe
clamp to hold the fitting
body together.
A provided zip-tie holds the
Flange together.
Being careful not to move
the fitting, clean excess
epoxy if needed and then
ensure the three critical
seams have a heavy bead
of epoxy on them.
Allow all epoxy to fully cure
before testing.
102
FLX-Series Retrofit
Single-Sided Retrofit for Flexible Pipe & FRP sump
 Designed for any brand of studded F.E.B.

NOT



Environ GeoFlex
FOR NEW CONSTRUCTION!
NUPI / UPP
APT Polytech



FlexWorks
Pisces
Co-Flex
 Epoxy for sump wall bonding only
 All the usual clamps, gloves, etc…
Sold separately:
 Adhesive for bonding to the pipe
103
FLX-Series Retrofit
Hand sand, dust off and clean the interior of both
Bravo FRP sleeve halves.
You will need to refer to our Flex Pipe ID chart
document to help visually identify your pipe and
determine the correct adhesive to use.
Then GENEROUSLY apply the correct adhesive to
both the sleeve interior and pipe, completely coating
all contact surfaces.
Clamp in place and allow a full cure time.
Different adhesives
must be used for
Polyethylene and
Nylon.
Bravo epoxy works
for PVDF exteriors
but will fail on poly
and nylon.
104
FLX-Series in action
105
Test Submission
Write “SWAT” here:
The answer sheet is found at
www.sbravo.com/cert
Download and print it, then write the name of
the test you are taking at the very top. This is
the SWAT test. Fill in all other information.
This is a True / False test. Mark T or F in the
fields provided on the answer sheet.
When complete:
FAX to: 323-205-3860
EMAIL to: [email protected]
SNAP an image and email it to us
SWAT
106
SWAT Test Questions
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
This training program is not a substitute for Bravo product installation manuals.
All Bravo DoubleWall sumps are made with an economy-grade resin and quality fillers to
keep the cost down, have thick gel-coated interiors and are painted on the outside.
You are permitted to gravity-feed, or pour interstitial fluid into the manometer until the
sump interstice is full.
All Bravo DoubleWall sumps use a Hydro-Pressure method where high pressure is used
to push interstitial fluid and additional air into the sump interstice.
The maximum positive test pressure for Bravo DoubleWall sumps is 4 psi.
You can not fill Bravo DoubleWall sump interstices with any monitoring fluid other than
Bravo supplied fluid.
107
SWAT Test Questions
7)
8)
9)
You only need to test DoubleWall sumps with a pressure /soap test.
The ALDP test is an advanced testing / troubleshooting technique exclusive to Bravo
Systems DoubleWall containment sumps.
Electrical offsets are available on both ends of a B-8000 series UDC.
10) A Bravo UDC is allowed to be hydrostatically tested while suspended in mid air
11) If no island form is used the frame of a UDC should be 1” above grade.
12) Bravo conversion frames only require 1/4” concrete anchor bolts.
108
SWAT Test Questions
13)
It is okay to modify a Dispenser Conversion Frame without authorization.
14)
The B-600 walkover transition sump should be set 1” above grade.
15)
16)
17)
18)
When installing a Bravo tank sump the height adjustment must be made by trimming
the bottom edge of the top sump half only.
Two layers of fiberglass mat is enough to seal a tank sump to a tank collar.
A minimum of 3/4” clearance is needed between the top of the tank sump lid and the
bottom of the traffic cover.
Lamination kits must be ordered separately for Bravo tank sumps.
109
SWAT Test Questions
19)
SNAP-LOCK lids are rated to be water-tight under five feet of water.
20)
Bravo SNAP-LOCK Retrofit lids can be installed to polyethylene tank sumps.
21)
You have to break concrete to install a TITAN “drop-in” retrofit cover.
22)
23)
24)
Steel / rebar reinforcement is not required to support the frame of the TITAN manway
cover as long as concrete will be supporting it.
The Bravo TITAN’s maximum load is 79,500 lbs, which exceeds the BS EN-124 C250,
H-25 and H-20 standards making it stronger than all other covers on the market.
When installing the F-Series full body fitting, you should only use the pipe
manufacturer’s adhesive for the tapered joint of the secondary pipe.
110
SWAT Test Questions
25)
All gel-coat or paint must be removed before bonding Bravo entry fittings to a sump wall.
26)
Surface prep (abrading / cleaning) is required for any parts that contact each other.
27)
It is okay to modify the F-Series full body fitting in the field.
28)
The maximum torque for the test port on the F-Series full body fitting is 10 foot pounds.
29)
Generous adhesive application is always emphasized for Bravo Retrofit fittings.
30)
Bravo epoxy will bond to steel, PVC and fiberglass.
111
SWAT Test Questions
31)
32)
33)
When the temperature is below 50°F degrees, you can double the hardener for Bravo
epoxy.
Bravo Retrofit-S fittings allow up to 20 degrees of pipe angle without modification.
When installing any Bravo Retrofit, you should protect the piping when cutting or
grinding.
34)
Bravo Retrofit-S fittings are kitted for both flat and curved sump walls.
35)
In-field modification of Bravo Retrofit fittings is not permitted.
36)
Bravo epoxy will easily cure below 30°F degrees.
112
SWAT Test Questions
37)
38)
39)
40)
Retrofit-S fittings can only be installed to OCAL Blue conduit manufactured before
1/1/2014 if the PVC jacket is stripped away first.
Smith or Ameron adhesive is allowed when installing Bravo Retrofit fittings.
You should always bracket conduit lines together when installing Retrofit fittings to
them.
On a DoubleWall sump, the interstitial fluid can remain in the sump walls while installing
a Bravo Retrofit fitting.
41)
Bravo Retrofit SD-AB fittings are kitted for both flat and curved sump walls.
42)
You have to excavate in order to install the D-BLR-S style Retrofit fitting.
113
SWAT Test Questions
43)
The snout (smaller O.D. end) of the D-INR-S split insert is installed facing the backfill.
44)
The D-INR-S insert must cover and seal over every one of the existing bolt holes.
45)
The orientation of the two main fitting components of the D-INR-S, is not really
important.
46)
Regarding gluing steps, both the D-BLR-S and D-INR-S have two separate cure cycles.
47)
On the FLX retrofit, the FRP sleeve can be left out if it creates a clearance issue.
48)
All flexible piping is made from the same type of plastic.
114
Certification Cards / Lookup
Your certification card
FRONT
This Certification is valid for 3 years.
The QR code can be scanned by a cell
phone to lookup proof of certification.
You can also save or print it as a PDF file.
It links to: sbravo.com/contractors
BACK
Our system also notifies you via email
when you are close to expiration.
WWW.SBRAVO.COM

the SWAT Trainer PDF here

Transcription

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