February 2014

Transcription

February 2014

p.32
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城市漫步北京
英文版 2 月份
国内统一刊号:
CN 11-5232/GO
inside north korea
with dennis rodman
an exclusive account
February 2014
that’s Beijing
《城市漫步》北京版英文月刊
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February 2014 // www.thatsmags.com
EDITOR’s note
Join our
That’s
Beijing
team
February
Pyongyang is closer to Beijing than Milan is to London, yet
in practical terms, the two cities couldn’t be further apart.
Whereas Beijing is awash with new money, new buildings
and new cars, Pyongyang remains stuck in a sort of perpetual
cultural revolution-era netherworld – a place that has come to
fascinate outsiders in recent years as much as it repels.
Whether a mercenary team of former NBA players led by a
recovering alcoholic are the right men to help bridge that
divide is open to question.
Dennis Rodman has made several highly publicized visits to the
DPRK since Kim Jong Un assumed leadership of the country
after the death of his father in 2012. His most recent visit –
exclusively documented for us in this edition by North Korea
tour operator, Simon Cockerell (p.37) – was intended to be an
exercise in what some have optimistically termed "basketball
diplomacy."
We are looking for
Sales Assistant:
•Assist Sales with contacting clients,
Sales calls, and appointments.
•Assist Sales in contract signing,
issuing invoices, payments, etc.
•Help Sales and Sales Manager in
preducing up-to-date sales analysis
and forecasts.
•Coordinate with other
departments.
Can Rodman’s efforts "connect countries together in the
world,” as the former Chicago Bulls man has promised, or is it
just a vainglorious act of self-promotion? We’ll leave you to be
the judge.
Talking of exclusives, we also meet up with the original street
fighting man himself, Sir Mick Jagger (p.32) ahead of the
Rolling Stones forthcoming China show, to talk sex, drugs, and
how he once played the emperor of China (true story).
Mick’s not the only swinging senior still tearing it up, on page
10 we meet with Beijing’s aging hoodlums, and explore the
strange but real issue of bad behavior among the over 60s,
while on page 31 Jeremiah Jenne revaluates the Empress
Dowager Cixi – progressive reformer or conservative dragon
lady? A question worth pondering, perhaps, as the snake
slithers away and China once again prepares to welcome in the
New Year.
Enjoy the fireworks.
That’s Beijing
Win! Win! Win!
Two tickets for Carsick Cars p.29, a
pack of Koryo Tours DVDs, T-shirts and
a book about Korean art p.47, multiple
vouchers for afternoon tea at Flamme
Indigo Mall p.61, dinner vouchers for
two at Indian Kitchen p.70, dinner
vouchers for two at Cafe Sambal p.71,
dinner vouchers for two at the Marriot
Northeast's Indian Restaurant p.71
and last but by no means least, two
tickets to see The Rolling Stones live in
Shanghai p.80.
3
THE WRAP
//36
DPRK JAM
Inside North Korea with Dennis
Rodman, an exclusive account
by Koryo Tour’s Simon Cockerell.
//6 CITY
Sign up for
1 year
(12 issues)
home delivery
of That’s
Beijing for
//09 CROSSING OVER
Mary Kate Magistad looks back at
over two decades in Asia, in this
month’s Exit Interview.
//14 BETA DAD
Our man offers up his unique
take on a the ‘real’ Spring
Festival (and what to avoid).
//16 LIFE & STYLE
RMB240
//18 BIG CHILL
This season’s essential Polar
Vortex looks.
//22 GO WEST!
A look at the Chinese fashion
brands making a (fake) Western
name for themselves.
//26 ARTS
//28 LUMINEERS
Like Mumford and Sons, only
slightly less famous. You be
the judge.
//29 CARSICK CARS
Hard-living in hard-times.
Beijing indie heroes return to
the stage.
//48 EAT & DRINK
TEL: 84477002
[email protected]
4
//53 THE RUG
Pulling it out from under them.
//57 NBEER PUB
At just what point does a microbrewery cease being ‘mirco’?
//10 AGING HOODLUMS
//30 DRAGON LADY
//32 MICKS LICKS
//50 WHISKY BUSINESS
It’s not that the old got bad, but
the bad got old.
Power hungry murderous villain
or frustrated reformer and
proto-feminist? Reevaluating
Empress Dowager Cixi.
Mick Jagger gives us an
exclusive interview ahead of
the Rolling Stones forthcoming
China show.
Can whisky overtake baijiu as
China’s preferred drink?
// 60 EVENTS
// QUOTE OF THE ISSUE
events
“Dennis didn’t know the first
thing about the DPRK: not even
the difference between North and
South, let alone the major issues.”
pick of six art exhibitions
Beijing
Voice:
Relations
Xu Zhen, a Madeln
Company Production
Ongoing. UCCA Great Hall and Lobby,
798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区酒仙
桥路4号798艺术区([email protected].
cn, 5780 0200)
All month. PACE
BEIJING, 798
Art District, 2
Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区酒仙桥路
2号798艺术中心
(5978 9786)
events
COMMUNITY
Gregory Burns in China 1984-2014
Until Feb 27. 10am-6pm. Closed during Spring Festival. 4F, exhibition hall of Building 1, Today
Art Museum, Pingguo Community, 32 Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹
果社区4号楼 (5876 0600 www.todayartmuseum.com)
Workshop: Screen Printing
This workshop introduces the screen
printing method in general and the
various uses of this method such as
printing on cloth (t-shirt), canvas, posters and so on. Finally, your own face
on a t-shirt.
// 2-5pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3, Jinxiu
Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路锦绣
园C楼202室
Ongoing.
Beijing Commune,
4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District
北京市朝阳区酒仙
桥路4号798艺术区
(8456 2862)
COMMuniTy
SPORTS
DJ: Ministry Of Sound Tribute Session,
Back to the 90's
Migas are ‘avin’ it large mate, proper
90s style, Kangol hats, cheap lager…
and fit birds (we hope). All the big
Gig: Chang Kuan & Baby Bro
Celebrated 80s rocker Chang
resurrects his act for a crowd
Chinese with mobile interne
foreigner, who will eventuall
book about him. DJ Ouyang
// RMB150, RMB100 (presale), 9pm
Yugongyishan (see listings for deta
FEB 6
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Bob Marley Day
Beijing’s annual Reggae part
with live music from One Dro
spinning the best of danceha
and dub.
// RMB100 (door), RMB70 (presale
Yugongyishan (see listings for deta
FEB 8
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Xu Jun
Gritty folk singer-songwriter
Xi’an plays deep-chested tun
you don’t doubt as anything
especially when he busts out
Shaanxi dialect.
// RMB40, 9pm, Blue Stream Bar, 1
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区
街183号 (158 1136 8566)
FEB 9
COMMUNITY
Workshop: Introduction to
Photography
Looks like Spring Festival is all about
the workshops. Beijing Academy of
Creative Arts (BACA) are running one
on fire art photography suitable for all
abilities.
// RMB6500, 10am-4pm.. A602, Yonghe
Mansion 雍和大厦, 28 East Street of
Andingmen, Dongcheng District
NIGHTLIFE
60
eat: afternoon tea buffet at Flamme
“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” So said Earl-Grey sipping writer Henry James and
so say Flamme, who’d very much like you to dedicate a few hours of your afternoon to their tea buffet, which includes two cups of leafy brew (or coffee) and a
choice of over 25 desserts, like macaroons, mille-feuille and chocolate chip cupcakes. For February it’s on offer for the special price of RMB98 for two people.
// Monday to Friday 2-4pm, RMB98(per couple), Flamme Indigo (see listings)
FEB 3 TO FEB 7
Gabriel Orozco Chicotes
Ongoing. Faurschou Foundation Beijing, 798 Art District, 2
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (59789316)
Until Feb 25. 10am-6pm, closed during the Spring Festival. 2F and 3F exhibition hall of Building 1, Today Art Museum, Pingod community, 32 Baiziwan
Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区(958760600-100,
www.todayartmuseum.com)
NIGHTLIFE
ALL MONTH
Hike: Yu County’s Ancient Walled
Towns and Fireworks of Molten Iron
Make the most of the week off with a
two-day trip out of Beijing. Almost four
hours’ drive northwest of Beijing city is
Yu County, home to ancient pagodas,
temples, pavilions, and large gates and
plaques inside fortified walled towns.
// RMB1,800 (RMB1,620 for members), pickup
at 8am from from Lido Hotel Starbucks, nr.
Liangmaqiao subway (www.beijinghikers.com)
“N12-No. 5”
FEB 4
SPORTS
COMMUNITY
FEB 3 TO FEB 5
names from the glory days o
house and trance on the sou
tem. DJs Kiran Patel and Kai.
// Free before 11pm, RMB30 after,
Migas (see listings for details)
Hike: Auspicious Village and
Huanghuacheng Great Wall
Head out to Huairou County
countryside walk through far
hills, dales and valleys. There
even be a chance for a sing-s
//RMB400, RMB360 for members.
[email protected], www.beij
com)
FEB 2 TO FEB 5
Wonderland: Ana Tzarev solo exhibition
New Bars p56
WIN!
hers for
Two vouc tea at l
emai
afternoon
indigo,
y.
Flamme rbanatom
prizes@u‘Flamme’
com
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: RetroDance Chinese New Year
Count down to the year of the Horse
with Tangsuan Radio's RetroDance
team DJs Demone and Brass Funky
Joker.
// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings)
Workshop: CNY Street/Travel
Photography
Want to learn how to take better photographs without using Instagram?
This four day intensive workshop will
combine technique, theory, on the
ground shooting and post processing.
// 9.30am-1.30pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3,
Jinxiu Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路
锦绣园C楼202室
Simon Cockerell, takes us behind the scenes of Dennis
Rodman’s attempts at basketball diplomacy. P36
Fashion p20
Events are editors’ picks of the best activities
not comprehensive. To list an event, email bje
urbanatomy.com. For some details, see Listin
EaT & DRinK
FEB 2
NIGHTLIFE
Feb 3
sports: nFL China oFFiCiaL
superbowL party
NFL China hosts the official Super Bowl party at Kerry – pretty much the next
best thing to actually being there yourself. Watch in style with a full American
buffet breakfast, unlimited Budweiser, and even a few surprise guests. (Joe
Montana made an appearance at Kerry a few weeks back.) This year’s final is
taking place in NYC, and though we can’t tell you which two teams will be pitted against one another, we are pretty excited about a Red Hot Chili Peppers
half time show. Great excuse to get drunk in the morning, too.
// RMB2,800/table of 10 or RMB300/single ticket, (RMB188/child under 12), 7am, , Kerry Hotel, 1
Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号 ([email protected], 156
1190 6392)
Gig: Backtrack
Upcoming hardcore quintet
Island, New York returns to B
tour latest album Lost in Life
haven’t heard of them, take a
“Gambling has definitely ma
better, sometimes it’s made m
to kill myself, but for the mo
it’s made it a lot better,” says
James Vitalo.
// No cover, Mao Livehouse, (see li
details)
COMMUNITY
Talk: Looking for the Master
Tiger Father p58
Underground p28
5
CITY
THE BUZZ
Random Number
Quote of the month
6,000
That’s the number of buses
stuck in traffic each day in
Beijing. Severe congestion has
led to a record low in arrival
times among the city’s once famously punctual fleet of buses.
According to the Beijing Daily,
bus punctuality dipped below 18
percent last year, a sure sign, the
newspaper reports, that more
bus lanes are needed as a way
to speed up public transport.
Yang Weiyan, a driver of the
No. 300 bus that encircles the
city on the Third Ring Road, told
the newspaper that the current
passenger rate among his route
“There’s nothing that
can’t be bought for
the right price.”
hovers around the 45 percent
mark, as more and more citizens
choose the metro to dodge
traffic jams.
Although the total length of
the city’s designated bus lanes
has reached 365.5 kilometers,
many of the lanes remain unconnected and are not joined
by a single network, explained
Liu Meilian, deputy to the city’s
Municipal People’s Congress. In
a survey conducted by Liu and
other deputies, 70 percent of
the 500 respondents support
adding more bus lanes to create
congestion relief. SG
// Our favorite recycling tycoon turned philanthro-mentalist, Chen
Guangbiao, lays out his philosophy for acquiring the New York Times,
announcing that he would meet with a “leading shareholder” for
dinner to talk over his US$1 billion offer. The Times current market
value is USD2.4 billion. A spokeswoman for the US newspaper said
she “had no information about any such meeting.” Chen has previously made headlines for a string
of publicity stunts, including an
advertisement in the Times saying
that the Diaoyu Islands belong to
China, rushing to the scene of the
Sichuan Earthquake with a fleet
of cranes, rescuing survivors
and handing
out cash to
the homeless
villagers, having two cars run over
him (“for the environment”), selling cans
of fresh air in polluted
cities and proposing
that people without a high-school
diploma should be prohibited from giving birth. Don’t believe he is
God’s gift to the universe? Check out his business card…
CHINESE WHISPERS
Urban myths: Phantom subway stops on Line 1
The myth: Ever notice that
Beijing’s subway stations not only
have names, but also numbers?
Dongzhimen, for example, is 214
(being the 14th station on Line 2),
Beijing South is 404, Beixinqiao
511 and so forth. However, Line
1’s numbers actually start from
Pingguoyuan (103) and end
at Sihui East (125). So where,
pray, are 101 and 102? And how
come, as some passengers have
noticed, there are already people on the train as it shunts into
Pingguoyuan? Who are these
people and what is going on?
The reality: Subway Line 1 is a
line with secrets! Pingguoyuan is
not the real starting station – Line
1 was originally built for military
6
security. However, they are not
entirely abandoned. Before they
were blocked on May 28th 2007,
two trains passed Fushouling station everyday, and some students
and local villagers would catch
the train and enjoy free travel.
purposes. In 1965, with the help
of the Soviet Union, Beijing built
the subway as a war defense
project. There are two stations
before 103 Pingguoyuan, namely
101 Gaojing and 102 Fushouling,
both located in northwest
Beijing, a military sensitive area.
Although the two stations are
fully equipped like other running
stations, they are ruled out from
civilian subway use for national
Verdict: Because the two stations are located in mountainous
areas (Gaojing station is in a
military compound), the part of
Beijing which is of great strategic
importance for defense, the two
stations have been blocked for almost 40 years. But being blocked
doesn’t mean they can never be
used. On special occasions, such
as times of war or natural disaster,
maybe they will prove to be the
most vital channel of all. KK
[email protected]
Edited by RFH, Stephen George, james griffiths & karoline KAN
Meme of the Month
DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM?
“Feed people smog”
Wang Ti
The comment discussed the need
for a Sinocized word for ‘PM2.5,’
with homophones such as “public smog source” (a reference
to civil servants), “capital dust”
or “Beijing dust,” “dust-caused
disease misses sweet” (Genghis
Khan), “dust world beautiful”
(Peking Opera heartbreaker Chen
Shimei), “keep inhaling dust”
(Hong Kong actor Edison Chan),
before most settled on the fivecharacter phrase, which was well
received by sarcastic netizens
who added to the fun.
Shanghai, China’s financial hub,
likes to compete with Beijing, its
political epicenter, in every aspect
– but until now, the capital has
always bossed it when it came to
hardore pollution (notwithstanding that business with the pigs
and the water and the diseased
livestock… bleuh).
But the turn of the year saw the
southerners fight back with PM10
readings shooting up to as high
as 726 at one air-quality station
in Putuo district, with averages
across some parts of Shanghai at
an off-the-charts level of 602.5,
and visibility in neighboring
Jiangsu province registering at
less than 200 meters (and under
50 meters in some areas of central and east China).
As usual, ordinary people are limited to criticizing, mocking, and
sighing about this catastrophe
online – and now with a new
meme, ‘Feed People Smog’ (喂
人民服雾; Wei renmin fuwu), a
homophone of Mao’s famous
diktat to “Serve the People” (为人
民服务). The phrase captured the
public imagination after first appearing as a comment on a news
article, according to the website
Hug China.
From footballer’s wife to convicted fraudster – 32-year-old Wang
Ti was jailed for life on Christmas
Day after scamming a cool RMB60
million from Beijing’s finest, including an Olympic gold medalist
and television stars.
Comments included references
to the Japanese 731 army and
Shanghainese materialism (“repackage and promote it and property prices will soon double”) but
perhaps the biggest laughs went
to state media, who – perhaps
heeding some unknown Party
line – chose to praise the smog in
editorials in CCTV and The Global
Times, one which praised smog’s
ability to make Chinese people
“more equal, more united and
more humorous” and another
which said smog has national-security benefits as it makes targets
harder for foreign missiles. Satire
or straight? It’s impossible to tell
for sure. RFH
After leaving Dalian sports star
husband Wang Sheng, the exfootballer’s wife found other
ways to maintain her luxury lifestyle. Moving to the capital,
Wang passed herself off as the
lovechild of an affair between
Li Changchun, former member
Politburo Standing Committee
member, and Lu Xin, an ex-deputy
minister.
“That made it impossible to check
her background, a very delicate
matter,” said one of Wang’s victims, in written testimonies obtained by the Telegraph. She soon
ensnared Xiao Qin, an Olympic
gold medal-winning gymnast and
senior PLA officer. “I first met him
at a wedding,” she told the court.
“Afterwards I drove an Audi TT
and carried a fancy handbag and
spent a lot of money making sure
I looked good … A week later, we
had sex in my house and moved
in together.”
The Sino Files
No. 9: The F.O.B.
Name William ‘will.i.am’ Buck
Milwaukee, Buck took his transferrable skills to Asia – and quickly
Age 22
ended up in China. With a nonprofit job encouraging dialectic
Who After racking up thousands
philosophy in American TV at the
of dollars’ worth of college debt,
Wukesong Number 12 Middle
Buck finally took the
School,
plunge –
Buck
and moved
hit the
to New
streets
York. But
with
Manhattan’s
next-to-no
media
idea and
proved
a healthy
hostile to
dose of
a hip new
misplaced
marijuanana
confidence.
columnist
But it has
and William’s
only taken
‘drone dealhim a few
ing’ program
weeks to
n
to
Ka ti e M or
crashed into
become fulIm ag e by
the Brooklyn
ly conversant in all things China.
Bridge. Refusing
to move back to
Says “It’s actually pretty free here,
man. Last Friday, I was out with a
bunch of Norwegian girls outside
this crazy little club – we were
drinking beer straight from the
bottle. Then, this Japanese girl
went past on roller skates.
“I’m best friends with these three
mad British dudes I met one
night. They’re planning to go
camping on the Great Wall next
weekend. Imagine doing that
back home – you couldn’t, right?
The locals are awesome. Super
chill. I bought breakfast off that
random guy over there; only eight
bucks. I wanted to go to Jingshan
Park because apparently you can
see the whole city, but I couldn’t
find it, so I just sat outside the
subway – just people watching,
you know? I feel like I’m part of
the Lost Generation? Hemingway,
Fitzgerald, Kerouac. It’s like Paris
in the 1940s.” SG
Xiao introduced her to his circle,
including Olympic athletes Yang
Yun and Yang Wei. “I thought
these athletes dressed tastelessly
– some of their clothes were even
fakes,” she opined. “They thought
I was a tycoon because I dressed
well, carried a real Louis Vuitton
handbag and lived in an expensive compound.”
To elicit cash, she would rent out
apartments, claim ownership and
sell them on. But as the months
passed and no contracts materialized, her suspicious victims
eventually reported her to police.
They still took a while before they
investigated, one of her marks explained, as “they wanted to make
sure she really wasn’t the daughter of Li Changchun.” NK
7
Printed in partnership with
BeijingCream.com
TALES OF THE CITY
subway hike
food scandal
Hour of the Left
Tower
La Pizza
nonplussed
Chef Luca Mania might
serve a mean pizza, but we
recommend avoiding the lemonade at Sanlitun’s La Pizza.
According to the Beijing News,
local resident Shen was hospitalized after drinking from a
thermos of water containing
detergent (Shen originally
asked for hot water, but got
Sprite. He sent the pop back
and ended up being dosed.
Moral: drink the Sprite).
Shen’s wife told the media
that he is recovering, but
transit chaos
Game of drones
The unannounced appearance of
a drone flying at 100 km/h over
Beijing airport caused a helicopter to be scrambled to intercept
it. It turned out the plane was
equipped with a camera for
mapping operations by a local
company – all legal, except they
didn’t warn air-traffic control.
The incident delayed 10 flights
and saw the four-man drone
team charged with “endangering
public security” and “seriously interrupting flight order.” Imagine
if they’d breached the
new ADIZ.
that the extent of his internal
injuries is still being calculated
(probably on a calculator).
Holding company the Miele
Food Import Export has taken
responsibility for the incident,
explaining that a cleaner put
washing detergent into a dirty
flask and then left it there.
When the new shift came on,
they assumed it was good to
go… and the rest is front-page
news, apparently. The lawyers
are now involved.
graffiti
Rectified Ron
Here’s some 21st-century name
rectification. If you live near the
International School of Beijing in
Shunyi, some local wag has been
dropping weirdly attributed truth
bombs. “A poor original is better than a good imitation” (says
Ron Jeremy: an unparalleled
innovator in his own right, Ron
Rejoice, heritage lovers! While
parts of New Beijing are falling
apart (see below), there’s a plan
afoot to restore the bits that
were already soundly destroyed
during the outer-urban demolition era of the 1950s.
The Zuoanmen (‘Left’)
Tower, probably one of the
least-impressive parts (pictured,
above) of the vanished Old City
Walls, is to be rebuilt on the inside moat bank by the southeast corner of the
Second Ring Road, along with its
accompanying wall.
has probably never uttered such
wisdom in his life. Try American
poet Ella Wheeler), “Drop it like
it’s hot” (Master Yoda – or Snoop
Dogg? You decide) and “I love
bad bitches” (Karl Marx, apparently, though the writer seemed
to have second thoughts and
scratched that pearl).
The restoration will cover the greenbelt side of
the river, and has been approved by the city, China Daily
reported. But there’s not much
in the way of original blueprints, meaning the plans are
mainly based on some architects’ notes from the 1950s
and this picture we have included, taken by a Swedish visitor in the 1920s. Oh boy.
China Daily explained the collapse
was due to subsidence from the
construction of a water pipe. Last
year the city saw 18 road collapses
in the space of 10 days. In 2011, a
truck was swallowed whole by a
sinkhole that suddenly appeared
on a Beijing street. The driver was
unhurt. But a number of pedestrians have been less lucky, including
one woman who got swallowed
up and boiled alive by a sidewalk
in 2012; she perished in hospital a
week later. Mind the gap.
Subway creep
That sinking feeling
A 10-meter (32-foot) deep crater has appeared on the East
Fourth Ring Road, complete with
rising white steam, after a section
of the sideway collapsed. No one
was hurt but traffic was cut off as
the road underwent urgent repairs.
8
CITY
Exit Interview
Goodbye, Mary Kay
EXIT
A recovering foreign correspondent’s prognosis
INTERVIEW
BY rfh
A
n award-winning
American China correspondent, Mary Kay
Magistad has spent over two
decades in Asia, covering topics
such as North Korea, Taiwan,
Sino-US relations and China’s
economy and society. She was
the first Beijing bureau chief for
National Public Radio. Last year,
Magistad bid a fond farewell to
China. Here she gives an overview
of her time.
she shook her head with mock
moroseness and said, ‘You never
recover.’ How is my prognosis?
I doubt I’ll ever recover either,
after almost three decades
abroad, reporting in some 40
countries. It permanently changes your perspective on the world
– in a good way.
On Beijing’s view of media
My experience, over the 14
years I lived in and covered
China, was that… there was
[before] an apparent underlying
understanding of what foreign
correspondents do. Lately, that
seems to have given way to a
belief, at least in some quarters,
that foreign correspondents
have nefarious intent, and are
looking for ways to attack China.
In truth, most of us would approach reporting in our own
country, or in any other country,
no differently.
On first coming to China
I’d been based in Southeast Asia
for NPR, at a time when feelings
about China in the region were
changing from wariness to cautious hope. I grew interested in
seeing what China was like from
the inside, and persuaded my
foreign editor to let me open
NPR’s first official bureau in
China.
On early memories
The first time I visited China was
June 1989. I had a visa to go to
North Korea, which I had to pick
up in Beijing… I was expecting
more chaos than was immediately apparent on my way
in from the airport. It took no
time at all, after that, to take
in the magnitude of what had
happened, and the depth of the
shock, tension and betrayal that
many people felt.
On the biggest changes
[In 1989] Beijing was still a city
of bicycles. It was more monochromatic, with many people in
blue-and-gray garb, and surly
staff in shops and restaurants.
And there was still the baffling
system of Foreign Exchange
Certificates for foreigners.
When I came back in early
1995, it felt like someone had
flipped a switch and turned on
the Technicolor. There was, literally, more color – but also more
hustle, more activity, more of a
palpable sense that you could
make something of your own
life… but also, an accompanying
anxiety that – if you didn’t put in
the effort – you’d be left behind.
China has continued to evolve
and change, to become more
wealthy and market-oriented,
more confident and more mus-
Magistad with PLA soldiers bein
g used as extras at a film set in
Ningxia and (above) in front of
a cow carousel at the China Mod
ern
Dairy in Anhui province, reporting
on the impact of dairy demand
cular as a global power. At the
same time, many individual
Chinese have become more affluent, more sophisticated, more
aware of their rights as citizens
and willing to speak out if they
feel those rights aren’t being
respected.
Another seismic change… is the
shift from being predominantly
rural to predominantly urban.
And with the furious pace of
building up and out, has come
a growing use of coal, a huge
spike in pollution, and increasing awareness that the human
cost… is unsustainably high.
The government now faces
significant challenges, with
a slowing economy, growing
income disparity, and rising expectations from an increasingly
empowered population.
On being a “recovering foreign
correspondent”
For someone who’s interested
‘When I told a
journalist I was
naming my blog
“Recovering
foreign
correspondent,”
she said, ‘You
never recover.’
in the world, likes meeting interesting people and being made
to think and grow, being
a foreign correspondent is pretty
addictive.
Indeed, when I told a fellow
correspondent I was thinking
of naming my blog recoveringforeigncorrespondent.com,
On the difficulties of leaving
It was certainly bittersweet.
I loved living in China, and
getting to know some of the
extraordinary and courageous
people I did. I expect I’ll continue to stay in touch and stay
connected with China for a long
time to come.
On a changing sense of identity
Living outside the United States
since 1984 has made me appreciate that there’s more than
one way to look at most issues,
and to reexamine the paradigms
I grew up with. I imagine that’s
true for many long-term expats.
You’re still a citizen of your own
country, but also a citizen of the
world.
On advice for young writers
Relax, maintain a sense of humor, and don’t sweat the small
stuff. Always look for the story
behind the story; don’t be afraid
to break away from the crowd
and do something different…
Get out of Beijing and travel…
Leave yourself open to random
encounters, experiences, and
conversations; they often turn
out to be the most memorable.
// Follow Mary Kay Magistad’s post-China
adventures at recoveringforeigncorrespondent.
com A full version of this interview can be
found online at www.thatsmags.com
9
CITY
Special Feature
Old Men
Behaving
Badly
What’s up with China’s
senior citizens?
By Karoline Kan
I
n The Analects, the Chinese
sage Confucius includes an
anecdote in which he rebukes
a mature student, Yuan Rang.
“When you were young, you
didn’t value the moral of filial piety,” ‘Kong Fuzi,’ as he is known in
Chinese, scolds Yuan.
Harsh words, perhaps, but this
dialectic philosophy reflects the
traditional relationship between
young and old in China. In
Confucian culture, seniors are
respected, but on the condition
that they meet requirements of
widom and morality.
“Then when you grew up, you
didn’t achieve anything. But now
as an old man, you’re still shamelessly living. You are such an
annoying pest!”
Rome wasn’t built in a day, and
so the road to respectability
begins with years of learning,
without which one might be
cursed as an ‘undead creature,’
10
a traditional curse directed at
burdensome geriatrics. Even in
China, gray hair and wrinkles are
no license to impunity.
“Although it came with high
expectations, generally,
respect has always been given to
Chinese seniors,” says Professor
Chang Yaohua of the Beijing
International Studies University
(BISU). “They were regarded as
a caste of better-mannered people with high moral principles,
in harmony with the cultural
system.”
In recent months, though,
China’s post-70 year olds have
replaced so-called ‘1980s and
90s generations’ as the subject
of several hand-wringing editorials about the state of society.
In Jiangsu province, cars in a
residential compound received
fly-posters warning owners not
to park on “the vitally important
dancing area,” which was a
‘It is not that
the old got bad,
but that the bad
got old’
public space. When residents objected, the ayis (‘aunties’) behind
the campaign suggested neighbors “install sound-proof glass,”
complaining, “Why can’t young
people get up early?”
A Changsha woman who confronted a group that was disturbing her 90-year-old mother
recived short thrift. “They were
very rude and came towards me,
surrounding me,” she told The
Guardian. Now long-running
anger against elderly troupes
is turning to action. Students in
Tangshan, forced into a silent
protest against the dancers near
their classroom, were dubbed
“mischievous” by the pensioners. Residents in Chengdu threw
water bombs; in Wuhan and
Changsha, troupes were spattered with excrement. One
Beijinger took things further in
November, firing a shotgun in
protest; he was arrested for illegal possession of a firearm.
Dance troupes are the tip of
the iceberg. In November, one
70-year-old Hebei man shouted
at a girl who failed to offer him
her seat, calling her “ill-bred” –
then sat on her legs. Meanwhile
in Gansu, a zealous cop held an
elderly woman at gunpoint in
January, after octogenarian fruitpickers descended on a truck
that had spilled its cargo.
And then there are the tales of
older people extorting money
through insurance scams or by
blackmailing Good Samaritans.
In the most recent example,
46-year-old father Wu Weiqing
is alleged to have committed
suicide in Guangdong, after
the elderly road-traffic victim
he stopped to assist later demanded a huge sum of money
in compensation. If Wu hoped
his death might spark a soulsearching nationwide debate,
though, he was sadly mistaken.
Yet as Phoenix TV put it in a speFebruary 2014 // www.thatsmags.com
11
CITY
Special Feature
In a widley shared photo, a policeman points his gun an an old woman scrambling for oranges from an overturned truck in Gansu province
cial report: ‘Are China’s Elderly
Disrespectful?’
more powerful get everything.
There were no constraints or
bottom lines in a time when
people can beat their teachers
and report their parents.” The articles deplore these generations’
lack of spiritualism. “They don’t
know how to discuss and negotiate. And intellectually, classic
books, literature, poems, music
and manners were ruled out
in their schooling, which made
them ignorant and rude.”
In the minds of some, the fault
lies with Reform and Opening
Up: according to them, the turbulent Mao period was one of
equality – where everyone was
equally poor – and seniors were
‘honorable.’ Economic reform
resulted in a society that was
more complicated (‘chaotic’)
that saw innocence corrupted
by ‘hooliganism,’ exemplified by
the country’s first Criminal Law
in 1979.
“In terms of ideology and thinking, China is back to the time of
the Warring States [a pluralistic
period with multiple kingdoms
and schools of thoughts],” claims
Professor Chang. “Chinese tradition has been broken up since
1919 and the May 4 movement,
along with subsequent movements, but the impact reaches
up until today.”
But a series on ifeng.com has
a different idea. “Most of the
elderly’s flaws come from their
education, when they were at
the most crucial stage for forming character and sensibility,”
the anonymous author argues.
12
“It is not that the old people got
bad,” is the damning conclusion.
“The bad people got old.”
Song Binbin, former Red Guard leader and daughter of the late PLA general Song Renqiong,
made a public apology for crimes committed during the Cultural Revolution
“[Reform] and the ensuing social
changes came after, when they
already had a stable identity.”
The articles use “deficient” to
describe people born before
1949, and makes few allowances for their circumstances
of their upbringing, such as the
Anti-Rightist purges, Great Leap
Forward, 100 Flowers campaign
and the Cultural Revolution.
Scarce resources, at a time when
the state bred deep mistrust of
others, led to habits such as materialism and hoarding.
To survive in a time when the old
morality system was smashed,
any means were adopted.
As writer Gao Wangling
noted in his 2006 rural treatise Investigation of Chinese
Peasants’ “Reactionary Action”
During The People’s Commune
Period [1958-1980], “Those who
don’t steal, won’t last.”
“They are the generation that
grew up drinking wolf milk, educated by the law of the jungle,”
ifeng.com observes. “Their rule
was those who are stronger and
Zhang Mishu is 73 but doesnt
think todays generation of elderly is anything special. ”Yes, we
went through some ‘special’ periods but I don’t think the impact
is on individuals’ daily behavior,”
Zhang says. “It is more on the
country’s political aspects.”
Beijing-based psychologist Dr.
Wei Guangdong disagrees, saying teenage experience can have
a lifelong effect on personality.
“It is like a shadow that people
can’t escape,” Dr. Wei explains.
“It has a life-long effect – people
become who they are from society more than their parents.”
He says it is irresponsible to call
China’s seniors ‘bad’ people.
“Old people are at a special
crossroads in life, a period of
loss. Physical ability, career positions, social and family roles
all present a downward turn”,
says Dr. Wei. “The changes are
followed by negative attitudes,
psychological imbalances, mood
swings, anxiety and even anger.”
This dichotomy – the old got
bad; the bad got old – is “the
classic style of Chinese criticism,”
says Chen Fang, a critic at the
Yanzhao Metropolis Daily. “In
China, one generation likes to
judge another. When the [balinghou, post-80s] were given labels,
like ‘unreliable’ and ‘selfish,’ it
seemed China had no future.
Today they are the backbone
of society... But now that they
have the power of discourse, the
balinghou turn it back on those
who once judged them.”
Chen says young people should
be careful in their criticism.
“Youngsters know how to use
the Internet to make a sensation
but their ‘enemy’, the seniors,
have no ability to defend themselves online,” Chen warns.
“Putting on labels is dangerous.
It could be another Cultural
Revolution, this time online.”
BISU’s Professor Chang went
through the same years of mad-
‘Putting
labels
on people risks
another
Cultural
Revolution’
ness as his peers. “But I think it
is too subjective to say they are
a generation of bad people,” he
argues. “Experiencing it made
people think and learn to regret.
And even during those years,
there were always good people
who kept their moral compass.”
man’ isn’t news but ‘man bites
dog’ is,” he says. “People have
expectations about seniors;
they like to think that vulnerable
groups only consist of kind people [but] that is just what people
want to believe… Bad people are
bad people, of all ages.”
Pensioner Zhang agrees.
“Incidents [like the spat over
a bus seat] could happen any
time. It happened in the past
and I’m sure it will also happen
in the future,” he argues. “Is it
something young people should
be proud of, if they are sitting on
a bus while seniors are standing
beside them?”
“The current generation experienced all the turbulences and
tragedies of modern China. Their
lack of material and spiritual cultivation led to a failure of moral
standards,” argues Chen Fang.
Last year, Chen Xiaolu, son of
the late Marshal Chen Yi, apologized for Cultural Revolution
“misdeeds,” while in January,
general’s daughter Song Binbin,
an infamous Red Guard, publicly
expressed remorse at a speech
at Beijing Normal University.
These ‘confessions’ carry considerable moral weight, though not
as much as an official apology.
(“[Reform was] a complete and
firm denial,” the Global Times
argued in January. “The nationwide introspection of the 1980s
is more constructive than a socalled apology.”)
The media’s focus on blame
is unhelpful, argues Professor
Chang. “It confirms the classic
journalism principle – ‘dog bites
“When [old people] dance in
public, they don’t care if their
behavior bothers others. When
they see young people not give
up their seats, they choose to
use violence. But if these ayis
had more space for activities,
would they still bother people?
If people on the bus were always
kind to the old, would their ‘evil’
side be aroused?” Chen believes
Chinese society is doomed to
grow old before it grows rich
and therefore, there will be
more conflicts of this type.
In February 2013, the China
National Committee on Aging
reported that, in 2012, China’s
over-60s population reached 194
million, and will pass 200 million
by the end of 2014. This pressure
on limited social resources will
deepen clashes between old and
young. Be prepared, then, for
the age of the grumpy old man.
Throw your hands in the air and wave them around like you just don't care about anyone else: to some, the elderly habit of danincg in public is an annoyance
13
relationships
BETA DAD: Spring Festival Special
A spring in his step
Our man shudders at a New Year ‘bromance’ too far
By carlos ottery
Beta Dad enjoys a game of
mahjong with
his extended
Chinese family
in Guangdong,
none of whom
tr ied to sleep
with him
and (inset) a
Chinese boy
offers Beta
Dad the gift of
Mar io Kart
C
hristmas and Spring Festival
– supposedly, special family
time. In actuality, most end
up schlepping back to a hometown they never much cared for,
to spend quality time with relatives they never much liked and
enjoy traditional food and TV they
would never normally endure.
Bah, humbug.
In China, my Spring Festival
is normally spent with family
– my Chinese family. Usually, that
meant ‘Tex,’ my best friend from
my Dongguan days. Back then,
Tex was keen to show me all the
city sights, except there weren’t
any. Still, he did his best. We
went to the city’s must-see highlight, Qifeng Mountain – a small
concrete hill. And that was that.
But Tex was always the kindest of
friends, willing to do anything,
and I felt the need to try to the
same. So when Chinese New
Year comes round when I’m in
Beijing, it means I have to travel.
Last year I was broke, so had to
get the train; a standing ticket,
as there were no seats left. A 28hour journey is about manageable with a bed and some sleeping pills; endurable with
a seat; but in the middle of winter, during the world’s largest hu14
‘Had he mistaken
me for his wife
(and why wasn’t
he sleeping with
her, anyway)?’
man migration, while standing,
it’s a bore (to put it mildly).
Fortunately, I’d done it a couple
of times before and was ready,
though I’d only recommend this
to the hardiest of souls. The
pushing and squashing is inevitable, but be prepared to go without visiting a fetid bathroom for
hours and to sleep like a donkey:
standing up. The trick is to make
friends, fast. Any extra inch of
space is a godsend and you need
to get on with the migrants immediately around you – preferably by offering around plenty of
cheap cigarettes.
Tex used to spend Chunjie in a
tiny coastal town a four-hour
drive from the station. There’s
not much to do: a KTV, MFC (yes,
‘M’) and a pool hall. I liked it.
Every year, an ancient granny of
some 160 years of age sat me
down and murmured at me for
hours in a dialect while I sat,
nodding and smoking. We’d then
let off firecrackers, occasionally chucking them at chickens
strolling about the alleys. Tex’s
parents treated me like a distant,
mute son; his mother cooks the
same meal every year, always
putting out a few beers for me,
which was thoughtful as nobody
else drank, including Tex. It’s
all very low-key and on the big
night, we gambled on a card
game called cow-cow. I usually
lost lots of money. After a few
days, it was time to go home –
another 28 hours in the cattle
truck – and that was that.
fish swimming: it
was that night’s supper.
Big Zhao, the father-in-law,
cracked out his best booze –
some five-liter relative of baijiu,
festooned with snakes, a scorpion and even a crab, all marinating in the giant jug. He claimed
to have had this particular brew
on the go for over five years. I
had three glasses, one after the
other and felt slightly invigorated (it’s not that bad).
Now Tex is married, he alternates
Spring Festival with his Hunan inlaws. But it was a very different
vibe to Guangdong when I went.
Tex’s hometown may be humble
but it was also clean, peaceful
and easygoing; everybody carried themselves with grace.
We all went out for a short walk
and a Chinese guy on a moped
stopped to chat with Big Z, then
pulled a writhing plastic bag outfrom the back of his scooter. Big
Z studied the contents, gave a
nod of assent and took the bag.
Eel de Changsha was now on the
evening menu.
The village outside Changsha
was a different story — scary and
rough as hell. There was an actual cesspit. On arrival, I dashed
into the toilet, beside which was
a plastic bowl with several large
We did the rounds of various
family; I was given cartons of
cigarettes, betel nut and oranges – all things I’m fond of.
Later, while having a smoke with
a particularly criminal-looking
uncle, he suddenly pulled me
into a brothel and whipped out
some money. It was starting to
look like the high point of the
trip but we were spotted by one
of the aunts and the flint-faced
uncle was forced to claim it was
a prank. I slipped away from the
ensuing row but, sadly, didn’t see
him again for the whole trip.
There was a sudden change of
plan for New Year Eve’s, and I
was asked if I minded spending
it with the grandparents-in-law.
The house I was in was pretty
basic. I wondered what things
would be like after we had gone
back a generation.
The next day we headed up to
their village, a dirt track in the
middle of nowhere with a few
shops (all selling the same thing)
and a dozen houses. Granny’s
was a brick courtyard with jerryrigged electricity and wild chickens. The novelty wore off when
it dawned on me there was
precisely nothing to do. No heating, books or TV and certainly no
Internet. Normally, by this stage,
Tex and I have ran out of stuff to
say but there’s usually wine and
card games to fill the gap. Here,
there were holes in the roof, and
it was snowing.
One unexpected saving grace
was Tex’s fake iPhone, which had
a shanzhai version of Mario Kart
which, over the interminable
days, I completely mastered.
Unfortunately, there were litters of kids inexplicably running
around and they all wanted a
piece too.
Things got worse: there was no
running water, and instead I was
handed a bowl of water pumped
from a well, and a flannel, and
told to go wash outside. This
involved a strip wash in -8° C
weather; there was an outhouse
of sorts but it was riddled with
huge holes. I heard people moving outside and occasionally
glimpsed eyes peering at the exotic white monkey shivering and
slapping inside.
I looked forward to the three
large meals a day, mostly because it was something to do.
At lunch and dinner there was
baijiu, and I quickly forced myself
to become a fan of the demon
drink. It would have been nice at
breakfast, too.
Far from bringing sweet oblivion,
though, bedtime came fraught
with problems. Tex and I were
sharing a single bed, which
during the night would gently
collect a snowdrift. I was basically sleeping in the snow. As the
nights drew on, Tex would draw
close, seeking warmth and, so it
seemed, other comforts.
Friends had sometimes commented, in amusement, that
Tex’s affection bordered on a
man crush – and indeed, his
insistence on paying for meals
could be a little much. Then
there were the gifts: a flashing
lighter here, a new pool cue
there. Mobile phones. Jewelry.
Lying in that freezing bed, his
chin nuzzling my shoulder, it
struck me that maybe it was I
who’d misread the signs.
Awake in the dead of night, Tex
lay his arm across my chest and
drew me in for a kiss. I pushed
him away and suddenly he was
fast asleep again. Had he unconsciously mistaken me for his
wife (and why wasn’t he sleeping with her, anyway)? I tried to
forget and the following night
passed without incident. I awoke
at dawn, however, in a state of
unconscious arousal and went to
adjust my trousers. “Can I help
you?” The sound of Tex’s eager
voice, so suddenly and early
was alarming. I answered just as
swiftly. “No. I’m fine... Thanks.”
There was a silence. “Just let me
know,” he murmured.
The rest of the stay was spent
on high alert. My mind was in
conflict. The bed was small and
it was cold; spooning wasn’t welcome but could be acceptable
within those bounds. Tex’s advances weren’t subtle by any
means, but they were never so
unmistakable that I could say –
“Look. Enough is enough, mate. I
don’t fancy you. So stop it.”
I’m still good mates with Tex, of
course, but we don’t chat quite
as much as we used to. And it increasingly looks like I will spend
this Spring Festival alone and
friendless, with neither money
nor family, back in Old Smoggy.
I’m quite looking forward to it.
// To oﬀer Beta Dad a platonic Chinese New
Year: [email protected]
NOW
G!
N
I
R
I
H
Are you young, enthusiastic,
personable and in love with
Beijing?
Prefer DADA to Vics? Know
your New York Times from
your Global Times? Can handle
late nights as well as early
mornings?
Then we want to hear from you.
That’s Beijing is hiring a Business
Development Manager to oversee
our city wide marketing – from
events and parties, to special
promotions and networking
opportunities – your job will be to
boost the visibility of our brand.
Think you’ve got what it takes?
For more information contact [email protected]
15
life&style
style radar
STYLE SECRETS
Made in China
Julian Wilson, co-founder of Khunu
A curious zoo
How would you describe your
style?
It really depends what mood I am
in when I get out of bed. I wear
jeans all the time, dressed up
with a jacket or a sweater. But I
don’t mind leaving the house for
coffee in the morning in tracksuit
bottoms and a puffer jacket.
Photo by Noemi Cassanelli
on outdoor and performance
clothing, so they attract anyone
who likes old-school, comfort
quality while retaining a taste for
adventure and the outdoorsy life.
I’d say we offer a cross-balance
between function and form.
Describe Khunu in a nutshell:
A high-end, socially-aware yak
wool clothing company. We set
it up in 2009, and launched our
web store in 2010, catering mainly to Europe and the US.
What does Khunu mean?
Khunu is an adaptation of the
Mongolian name of the first collective of Mongolian tribes that
pre-dated Ghengis Khan by some
1,000 years. Our company is all
about people, so it was important we had a name that somehow connected us to the yak
herders living in the places that
led us to start this business.
What’s your position in the
market?
We mainly do menswear, with a
few unisex accessories thrown
in the mix. Our products offer
a more stylish, wearable take
Where do you source the fibers
and textiles for your products?
We go mainly to Western China –
specifically Qinghai and Sichuan.
I first traveled there when I was
studying in Beijing, and it was
then that the initial idea for this
project was seeded. I got to know
yak wool and made my way back
to Beijing with a sack full of this
fiber, determined to make something out of this beautiful textile.
We’ve remained small, but that
means we’ve kept our focus,
which is really how we’ve been
able to grow in terms of production and quality.
// khunu.com
Six of the best… Headphones
Beats
Monster DNA
TDK
The Queen Bee
of the modern
headset, Beats by
Dr. Dre spawned
an entire industry
of high-priced,
logo-embossed
earphones, as well
as a shady counter-industry of poorly-made
Yashow knock-offs. Word. These bulky
mammoths are a gaudy staple of malls,
planes, clubs and sidewalks everywhere.
RMB2,580.
Slick-looking and pretty
futuristic with their hiphop design, Monster
DNA headphones make
you literally feel every
beat that counts while
cutting out all the
noise you don’t need
to hear. Perfect for
ignoring your shouty neighbors,
less so when you’re cycling. RMB1,980.
A solid wireless
option, TDK’s
WR700’s high
fidelity sound
is rich, full and
detailed. Use them
on your mobile
to look like a real
gangsta when
you’re actually just
taking a call from
your mum. RMB999.
Skullcandy
AKG
B&O
On the more
affordable side
of the spectrum,
Skullcandy’s ‘Uprock’
headsets offer a
neat, lightweight,
ergonomic fit that’s
set to boost your
street cred while providing extra comfort
for your ears, even when you’re running.
RMB349.
Packing
remarkable
punch and clarity
for their size,
AKG’s K430 are
attractive, comfy
and excellent soundwise. Dinky and foldable,
they almost clamp to your
earholes. Great, tiny performers.
RMB428.
One for the lavish
fashionista in all of
us, this set by Bang &
Olufsen (Beo Play) is
crafted in luxurious
leather and makes
a bold statement in
terms of design. The
perfect match if you
refuse to compromise quality in sound,
design or craftsmanship. RMB3,500.
// Find them all at Sundan, Shop 13, 1/F, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang.
朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场地铁层店铺号LG13 (8426 0462)
16
New season, new handbag.
And because picking one is like
choosing a partner, we’d recommend you go for something
fun, whimsically charming and
humorous. A tip? Stephany
Zoo’s animal-shaped clutches.
When a friend, pondering over
her last name, asked her “if
you had a ‘Curious Zoo’ what
would be in it?” the young creative and animal-lover thought
of a unicorn, a dinosaur and
an elephant. Shortly after, Zoo
decided to turn her little fantasy
menagerie into a concrete line
of purses, and oh, boy, what
a perfect little grouping they
make.
Made from sturdy leather and
metal, each clutch (RMB300) is
wearable, absolutely adorable
and sure to add a little something-something to any outfit
without screaming excess or
conspicuous opulence. Just like
a good significant other should.
Planned for the coming months
are also a porcupine and a
puppy, as well as a scarf collection produced by the Women’s
Foundation of Nepal that promises to be as distinctive as these
bags.
// curiouszoo.com/shop
Edited
marianna
cerini cerini
Editedby by
marianna
[email protected]
“The breast milk soap is very good! I
am using it now! My skin used to peel
during winter, but not anymore! It's very
moisturizing and comfortable for face
wash! [sic]”
Lifelines
// An overly enthusiastic Taobao shopper on the ‘magic,’ beautifying properties
of breast-milk soap (muruzao), currently one of the hottest whitening products
sold on the Chinese e-commerce site. Although praised by thousands of consumers
online, the safety and effectiveness of the soap are still very much open to question.
head to head
China Flowers 214 vs Beijing Flowers: the freshest online florists
as much as you do the moment when your
friend or loved one smiles when receiving
flowers.”
Oh, you sweeties.
continual success and fast and steady
growth since starting our business in 2000.
We believe it is due to our business ethics
as we put customers first and are happy
to be in the business of making people
happy.” Say ‘business’ one more time.
Website look: Internet Explorer circa 1999.
In stock: Plants, flowers, cakes, flower baskets
and hampers, each named something poetic
like ‘Warm Birthday,’ ‘Tender Like Water’ or
‘Impress.’
Website look: Internet Explorer circa
1994.
On stock: Flowers, singing telegrams,
teddy bears and hampers. Fruit baskets,
candies and wine. Oh, and Godiva chocolates and Häagen-Dazs cakes…
Price range: From RMB145 for a simple bouquet to a whopping RMB14,370 for 999 red
roses – the best way to seduce your lurver.
China Flowers 214
What: One of the leading network florists
in China.
Company message: “It’s a wonderful
thing to make someone smile. Flowers
are not only a nice idea but also a way of
creating and sharing happiness. We enjoy
Delivery time: Same day, within three hours
from placing an order, which is pretty fast in
our book. Exceptions may be made for ‘Severe
Weather and Other Acts of God,’ their delivery
info page tells us.
Delivery area: Everywhere in Beijing
// www.chinaflower214.com
Price range: Flowers go from RMB124
for one rose to RMB14,901 for 999 roses.
Teddy Bears start at RMB25.
Beijing Flowers
What: Online florist servicing Beijing since
2000. Which, for our city, is tantamount to
having been around forever.
Delivery time: Same day, with a flat fee of
RMB36 on all orders.
Company message: “We are very thankful
and lucky that our business has experienced
Delivery area: Everywhere in Beijing
// www.beijing-flowers.com
The winner: the two services don't differ that much really, but we're going to give this one to China Flowers 214, just on the names it gives to its
products – who can resist a cake called ‘Strong Feelings’? Or a ‘Truth Long Time’ bouquet? Or a ‘Mysterious Castle’ brownie?
COVET
In the bag
Looking bright
Rugged, sturdy and super laidback,
backpacks are no longer the daggy
fashion faux-pas of your school days. Oh
no: they’re the new It bag, the handsfree carryall of choice to dash around town
in style while accidentally whacking poor
passersby as you blithely move about buses,
pavements or any other public area. Our
favorite? This number by The Thing – too
cool for school, it’s perfect to get ahead of
the trend. RMB558.60.
Let’s face it: winter isn’t going away
anytime soon. So man up and ditch
that sad-looking face: just because
the world looks miserable out
there, it doesn’t mean you should.
Marimekko’s umbrella is a safe
remedy to chase the doldrums
away – bold and cheerful, it’ll make
any gloomy day more bearable.
Maybe. RMB180.
// thethingtq.tmall.com
//Taikoo Li Sanlitun South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
朝阳区三里屯路19号,太古里三里屯南区S8-10D
17
life&style
fashion
Dressed to chill
Slouchy loungewear worth staying in for
BY Marianna Cerini
With the ever-present threat of a polar vortex hanging over us, leaving the
house to brave the bracing cold is getting harder every day. Yup, loungewear
is set to become your fashion uniform until the icy apocalypse is over. So relax,
sit back and put your feet up. It’s time to wrap up and stay stylishly toasty
in the coziest of bed socks and the softest of woolen wraps – just follow our
guide to the best home garbs for this season’s cold snap.
Oysho slippers, RMB139.
// Daily 10am-10pm, SM-33,
1/F, Solana Mall, 6 Chaoyang
Gongyuan Lu, Chaoyang (5905
6830, www.oysho.com)
H&M hat,
RMB99.
// Daily 10am10pm, (8409 4199,
www.hm.com)
H&M, RMB299.
Gap sweater,
RMB249.
// Daily 10am10pm, (8426 0386
www.gap.cn)
Pull & Bear socks,
RMB25.
Topshop silk
kimono, RMB580.
// www.topshop.com
18
// Daily 10am-10pm,
(5905 6940, www.
pullandbear.com)
H&M jersey pajamas,
RMB229.
// Daily 10am-10pm, (8409
4199, www.hm.com)
Shokay throw,
RMB2,410.
// shokay.tmall.com
Almond Rocks
socks, RMB28.
// www.nuandao.com
Uniqlo T-shirt,
RMB39.
// Daily 10am-10pm,
(6413 1320, www.
uniqlo.cn)
Uniqlo lounge
pants, RMB99.
// Daily 10am-10pm, (6413
1320, www.uniqlo.cn)
Hugo Boss hoody,
RMB519 and
Asos sweatpants,
RMB231.
Zara Men’s
trousers, RMB229.
// www.asos.com
// Daily 10am-10pm,
(6587 1341/49, www.
zara.cn)
Topman onesie,
RMB200.
// www.topman.com
David
Beckham
for H&M
bodywear,
RMB249.
// (8409 4199,
www.hm.com)
Muji slippers,
RMB150.
// Daily 10am10pm, (5971 6248)
19
life&style
Fashion
ARRIVALS
By Marianna Cerini
What’s new on the scene
Undoubtedly one of our favorite ‘Made in
China’ labels, Beijing-based eco-sustainable
brand Neemic never fails to hit the right spot
with its collections. Its latest one is called
Cocoon, and it’s, simply put, a beautiful sample of sartorial skillfulness and craftsmanship.
Blending the company’s minimalist design aesthetics with eco-friendly, hand-made natural
fabrics, a line of sleek coats, separates, denim
and dresses reveals clean cuts in subdued,
earthy tones – a perfect mix of simple comfort
and soothing colors. In typical Neemic style,
feminine and boyish references abound across
the collection, with silky skirts, ultra light layers and delicate knits juxtaposed with boxy
fleece sweaters in organic cotton, boyfriend
coats and oversized jumpers. Attention to detail shines throughout, from upcycled leather
elements to understated prints sprayed on a
casual jacket. A real bastion for fashion, beauty
and sustainable living, this is a brand worth
plenty of attention. RMB1,438-4,420.
// neemic.asia
Porter International
Those looking for a brand new bag – or two – to
get carried into the new year, might want to
check out newly opened Porter International.
The Taiwanese label, which, since launching in
2001, has expanded its brick-and-mortar presence in the US, Europe and most of Asia, now arrives in Taikoo Li Sanlitun South. But be warned:
this is not a place for fashion braggers, so if an It
bag is what you’re after, you’ll be disappointed.
If, on the other hand, you yearn for a little modesty and a bag that’ll take you a long way, walk
right in. The shop is a haven of carriers, totes
and briefcases that combine understated design
and solid materials with high functionality – all
a bag should offer, really.
Prices range from RMB7502,000.
// S6-21B, Taikoo Li Sanlitun South, 19
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里
屯路19号太古里三里屯南区
(6413 2168)
Q Apartment
Cheap Monday
// 2606, Bldg 6B, Pingod, 32 Baiziwan Lu,
Chaoyang 朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区6B
楼2606(186 1033 0793)
20
elli
i Cassan
y Noem
Photo b
From the trend-led thrift of Trash ’n’ Diamonds to
newly opened retro gem Q Apartment, Shuangjing’s
Pingod is fast becoming home to a rather interesting
vintage scene. A well-presented, well-stocked, intimate
little shop – literally a living room-turned-boutique
– this latest addition to the artsy compound is the
personal project of former stylist Shao Qing, who has
lovingly sourced each and every item during her many trips to the States, France and
Italy. Choice vintage garb from different
decades – spanning the 1930s, 50s
and 90s – includes some exquisite
pieces, shoes and accessories, and
features both brand-less vintage
threads and designer wares. Quality
over quantity is the name of the
game, and with prices ranging from
RMB700 to RMB15,000, it’s unlikely
you’ll walk out arms heaving, but what
you do purchase will be the very best,
and for that, this new boutique deserves a visit.
Although carried by a few, selected shops around
town, Cheap Monday – that brand with the signature skull logo you may have seen in Urban
Outfitters back home or on some very hipster
types in Gulou – had never had a proper retail
presence in Beijing. Or at least that was the case
until a few weeks ago. To the delight of young
indie-style aficionados, the label has finally opened
its very first standalone store in Xidan’s Joy City – a
clear effort to establish a stronger position within
the high-street market. Hailing from Sweden,
Cheap Monday is best known for its denim range –
the company first launched its super-stretch, skinny
fit ‘Tight’ jean
in 2004 – but
has, over the
years, become
a much-coveted name for its
edgy separates
and directional
footwear (read:
ultra-hipster
clothes).
// Joy City, 131 Xidan
Beidajie Chaoyang 朝
阳区西单北大街131号大悦城 (6651 7777)
Photo
s by N
oemi C
assane
lli
NEEMIC
life&style
portrait of china
What would you say your
main belief is?
Money is king and people
are too pragmatic. That’s
why relationships are so
hard. You just have to look
after what is most precious
to you.
What’s the most precious
thing in your life?
My four-year-old daughter.
// Chengdu native Ms He. She sells
Sichuan-style noodles at a stall on
Nanluoguxiang, and wants her
shop to be the most popular on
the street.
21
life&style
LEAD
Faking It
The Chinese brands pretending to be foreign
By Marianna Cerini
Elliot deBruyn
Elliot deBruyn
W
alk into any midrange local shopping
mall in China and
you’ll be bombarded with a
slew of foreign-sounding brands
offering heaps of easy, quick
fashion choices: from daywear
and accessories (hello Giordano
and Twice) to beauty products
(Sasa) to wigs (don’t tell us
you’ve never visited Rebecca).
Yet despite the blue-eyed
models and Western-sounding
names, fewer than 20 percent
of “foreign” high-street brands
on sale in China are genuine imports – the majority are merely
registered abroad.
Notwithstanding the mesmerizing attraction of store names
such as ‘Wolf Zone’, the real
The name: Transliterated from the
Chinese oushili, which stands for
‘European fashion charm,’ Ochirly,
means nothing. It’s supposed to
inspire elegance and modern style
(so its website tells us) and it does
sounds like a pretty, cutesy word to
us, but also – mostly – like a misspelling of orchid.
What’s the story: Founded in 1999,
Ochirly belongs to lifestyle and fashion company Trendy International
Group. Targeting middle class
young women in their mid- to latetwenties, it has about 200 retail
outlets (H&M counts just over 130)
and almost 600 franchises across
China. Today, it is valued at USD2
billion and is considering listing on
the Hong Kong and New York stock
exchange.
In 2012, L Capital Asia, a private
22
reason indigenous shops opt
for foreign disguises isn’t only
to seem cool. For many companies, a ‘foreign-made’ tag brings
competitive and economic
advantages. Among consumers, Western brands are often
considered, point-blank, to offer
better quality and a higher level
of prestige – attributes that allow such brands to retail for a
-equity fund financed by French
luxury giant LVMH Hennessy Louis
Vuitton SA bought nearly a ten percent stake – equal to about USD200
million – in the Chinese casual
wear brand, a move that allowed
the high-end megacorporation to
break into China’s fashion industry
and Ochirly to boost its reputation
among industry professionals. Not
bad for a brand whose aim is that of
“occupying the mind of fashionable
people and becoming a staple in
their style vocabulary.”
On offer: Easy, contemporary styles
similar to Mango or Zara, with
mini collections following different
themes each season – right now
it’s Retro Glamour, Gothic Spirit
and Snow Spirit – which is a clever
ploy. While some items still very
much miss the mark and pastels,
lace and frills tend to be splattered
significantly higher price.
Among all the fake Western tat
and goofy branding attempts,
there are several labels tearing up the form book, striving
to make a valid (albeit funnysounding) name for themselves.
Their tags might be a little off,
but what they offer isn’t your
usual schlock.
on a lot of pieces for no real style
reason, there’s definitely a sense of
what’s aesthetically pleasing when
it comes to design.
Glossing up: Since its first billboard
campaign in 2011, Ochirly has
mainly used foreign models for its
slick, airbrushed ads, always shooting in international locations such
as Saint-Tropez, Rio de Janeiro or
London – no doubt a clever move
to entice those Chinese customers
craving ‘Western lifestyles.’ For its
2013/2014 campaign the brand
has gone all out and booked no
less than models of the moment
Miranda Kerr, Cara Delevingne and
Lindsey Wixson to sport its wares,
as well as fashion photographer
Mario Testino to capture them. That
LVMH investment is definitely paying off.
The name:
In Chinese,
JNBY
stands for
Jiangnan
Buyi,
meaning
‘clothing
from the
southern
Yangtze
River
Delta.’ In
English,
that got
translated
into Just
Naturally
Be Yourself,
which, admittedly, sounds
like a pretty
Chinglish
name. Or a
motto by one
of those hippie
lifestyle gurus
The name: Metersbonwe means
nothing in English or Chinese: even
its characters, combined together,
have no real significance whatsoever. That’s perhaps why most local consumers are convinced it’s a
European brand – few other words
sound as unpronounceable and
exotic.
What’s the story: A downmarket version of Gap and Uniqlo,
Metersbonwe is wildly popular
among teenagers and college students. Launched in 1995 by tailorturned-billionaire Zhou Chengjian,
it was the first garment company
in China to adopt the international
practice of outsourcing all manufacturing and, over the years, has
become the country’s most prolific
fast fashion brand, counting
around 4,000 outlets across
first-, second- and third- tier cities: basically as omnipresent
in the Middle Kingdom as
Gap is in America.
In 2011, branding agency
Millward Brown Optimor
ranked Metersbonwe
tenth in the world for
“brand momentum,”
and, two years ago,
the retailer appeared
as the third largest apparel brand by sales in
China behind Nike and
that seem to be springing up
everywhere these days. We forgive them only because of their
fashion-forward aesthetic.
What’s the story: The priciest of
our picks, JNBY was founded in
1994 in Hangzhou by a group of
11 art and design students and
spread rapidly throughout China
over the course of the 1990s,
fueled by its focus on innovative
silhouettes, soft, organic fabrics
and contemporary designs. It is
mostly aimed at China’s upwardly mobile middle class, women
between 25 and 35 who know
what they like and are also seen
shopping at COS.
Counting more than 600 stores
across the Middle Kingdom,
the brand has also expanded
internationally, opening its first
store outside China in Moscow
in 2005 and subsequently in
a number of other countries,
Anta. The company also has global
expansion plans aplenty, as Zhou is
determined to push into the fashion
markets of London, Paris, New York
and Milan.
On offer: Youthful and inexpensive designs for men, women and
kids, spanning T-shirts, jeans and
understated daywear pieces that
are relaxed and comfortable, each
with its own range and name:
MTEE for T-shirts, Mjeans for denim
and MPolar for winter apparel.
Just to make this whole naming
thing easier. To advertise its collections, Metersbonwe has roped
in Taiwanese star Jay Chou, who’s
been the face of the brand since
2003.
Random fact: The company
owns a private museum, the
Metersbonwe Costume
Museum, on the fifth floor of
its Nanjing Dong Lu flagship
store in Shanghai. It displays a captivating collection of ancient and ethnic
garments and accessories,
from traditional attires
dating back to the Qing
Dynasty to qipaos and delicate embroideries
from China’s southwestern regions.
including Japan, Spain,
Singapore, Thailand and the
United States.
In 2005, the company
launched a sister menswear
brand, Croquis, which has
quickly become one of the
most covetable men’s labels on
the high street. More recently,
it also launched jnby by JNBY,
which does children’s apparel. On offer: Compared for its
aesthetics to the likes of highend Comme Des Garçons and
Yohji Yamamoto, JNBY does
multifunctional, structural
designs and luxe casual wear
– spanning separates, dresses,
accessories and plenty of layers
– working with natural materials such as hemp, wool, silk and
ramie. Consistently interesting
season after season, its collections are often inspired by architecture and feature subdued
palettes along with
splashes of electric color.
Runway talk: With its eyes
firmly set on the international
market, JNBY made its Canadian
debut at the World MasterCard
Fashion Week in Toronto last
October. Presenting looks that
were both wearable and alluring, the label marched out
models donning adaptable
separates and simple, beautiful garments featuring frayed
hemlines and exposed seams,
for a line that received plenty of
praise from fashion critics and
professionals alike.
The name: This is just grammatically annoying. A city is
not a person. Can someone
please add a ‘the’ there? Also,
it reminds us of Sex & the City
(see? The city), which is even
more irritating – especially since
we actually like what this brand
offers.
en, good-quality fabrics and
sartorially clever pieces that feel
modern and interesting. Though
still not as fashion-forward as
its international counterparts,
Me&City’s contemporary aesthetic makes it one of the most
attractive fast-fashion labels in
China today.
What’s the story: Owned by
Metersbonwe, this upscale offshoot targets middle class, twenty- to thirty-something white
collar professionals – a segment
of the market still greatly underrepresented in China’s retail sector. Self-proclaimed as China’s
only premium fast-fashion
brand, it debuted in 2008 and
has opened more than 85 locations throughout the country.
Celeb love: Since its launch,
Me&City has engaged in some
seriously high-end advertising, signing celebrities such
as Wentworth Miller, Orlando
Bloom, Agyness Deyn and Alexa
Chung for its campaigns. That,
and its foreign-sounding name,
probably account for a lot of
the brand’s success in less developed markets across China,
where the label gets easily mistaken for a foreign brand. Still,
its designs are valid competitors
to H&M.
Although the brand hasn’t yet
managed to woo shoppers in
larger metropolises – where savvier consumers still prefer the
similarly priced Zara or
Esprit – it has outdone
its international rivals in
secondary markets, often
setting up shop in smaller cities well before the
big international chains.
On offer: Grown-up
looks for men and wom-
23
life&style
travel
DIVERSE DUBAI
FROM SEVEN-STAR TENNIS TO SKIING IN THE DESERT
BY TOM KELLY
I
t’s the middle of the desert.
The temperature outside is
over 40 degrees. And we’re
wrapped in thick jackets, scarves
and gloves about to launch ourselves down a ski slope.
For a place that boasts the world’s
tallest building, the world’s only
seven-star hotel and the world’s
largest shopping mall, generating
22,500 square meters of snow in
searing heat for an indoor ski center
is to be expected.
citywide sales, street fairs with food
stalls and nightly fireworks all help
you spend your money.
The Burj Khalifa and (above) its helipad-turned-tennis court
In Dubai it truly feels like anything
is possible.
All the malls are air conditioned,
which is vital because there is no
getting around it, Dubai is very hot.
In summer it averages 42 degrees
Celsius in the daytime – making
even a short walk in the street almost unbearable – and 28 degrees
at night. Even in winter it is hot
(and rains very rarely), with daytime
highs of 25 degrees and nightime
lows of 10 degrees.
One of the few cities where the skyline rivals New York, a good place to
start a visit is at the 828-meter-tall
Burj Khalifa tower.
Not only is it the largest free standing structure on the globe, it also
has the highest number of stories
(160), the highest outdoor observation deck and the world’s longest
elevator to carry you to it – at a
stomach-turning 10 meters per
second.
From the top, the 360-degree views
take in the bustling city and surrounding desert on one side and
sea stretching out on from the
other direction. Venturing up the
tower by night offers glorious view
of the stars as they battle for attention with the dazzling lights of
downtown Dubai far, far below.
Back on the ground, it’s worth visiting another record-breaking attraction, the Dubai Fountain. At 275 meters long and with jets that shoot
83,000 liters of water more than 150
meters in the air at any one time, it
is the largest dancing fountain on
the planet. Choreographed to music
and with the rays from thousands
of lights refracting off the water,
the shows are a remarkable sight,
running every 30 minutes each
evening.
As impressive as the Burj Khalifa is
Dubai’s flagship creation is the Burj
al-Arab – a 321-meter sail-shaped
structure built on an artificial island
jutting out of the mainland. The
favorite Dubai lodgings of England
footballer Wayne Rooney and his
wife, Colleen, double rooms start
from RMB10,000, while the Royal
Suite will set you back the princely
sum of RMB120,000 a night.
24
A popular place for retail therapy at
all times of the year is The Mall of
Dubai – you guessed it, the world’s
largest – which packs in 1,200
shops, as well as an aquarium and
ice rink. Across town, the sumptuous Mall of the Emirates is loved for
its wide avenues, polished marble
floors and skylight, as well as its
chic boutiques, designer shops
and department stores, including a
Harvey Nichols.
At the Burj alArab guests are
provided with a
24-carat plated
iPad for the
duration of their
stay
In what is referred to as “the world’s
only seven-star hotel,” guests are
provided with a 24-carat plated
iPad for the duration of their stay,
and can also dine at the underwater aquarium restaurant and, ask
very nicely, and they might let you
play on the helipad-turned-tennis
court – the world’s highest spot for
a knock-up.
Those planning to peek inside at
the opulence enjoyed by the lucky
guests must book in advance for
afternoon tea or cocktails. Meal
reservations need to be made a few
days beforehand – and room book-
ings months ahead of arrival. Smart
clothes are a must if entering the
playground of the super-rich.
Amid the glittering skyscrapers
and luxury modern hotels, there
are some surviving pockets of old
Dubai giving a glimpse of how
things might have been before it
transformed from a poor pearling
village to a thriving metropolis.
Bastakiya District maintains winding
streets and windcatcher towers – an
ingenious Persian design that kept
buildings cool centuries before air
conditioning was invented – as well
as the Al Fahidi Fort, the oldest surviving building in Dubai.
The Dubai Museum also features
a reconstructed souk – traditional
market – including authentic sights
and sounds to capture street life in
the days before oil was discovered.
A few real life souks also survive
around Dubai, selling everything
from traditional crafts to cheap
tourist t-shirts.
Most shopping, however, is done
in the numerous modern malls.
Shopping is such a popular pastime
here that there is an annual festival
dedicated to it each January, when
Given the heat, many visitors spend
their days on the long white sandy
beaches, but be warned, taking a
dip in the water often does little to
cool you off as water temperatures
can hit 37 degrees in summer.
For sports lovers, Dubai has an
eclectic range, including the Tennis
Open, Dubai Rugby Sevens, World
Offshore Powerboat Championship
and Dubai Traditional Dhow Sailing
Race. Horse racing fans will enjoy
the Meydan racecourse and especially the Dubai World Cup held on
the last Saturday in March. Those
after something more exotic should
visit the camel racing, held every
Thursday and Friday during the
winter.
Those brave enough – and who
don’t suffer from car sickness – can
take a trip out of town to the desert
for extreme ‘dune bashing’ in jeeps
or quad bikes.
And if you need to cool down after
a day on the dunes, take a trip to
the Ski Dubai center back in the
Mall of the Emirates.
Sliding down the 400-meter run in
sub-zero temperatures surrounded
by French-style cafes and restaurants modeled on an Alpine resort,
it’s almost possible to forget you are
in Dubai. Almost.
life&style
Hotel
Roland Steiner, General Manager of Crowne Plaza Beijing Sun Palace
T
here are few countries
Roland Steiner, General
Manager of Crowne
Plaza Beijing Sun Palace, hasn’t
worked in. “It’s difficult to remember them all!” he says with
a laugh. “There must be at least
20!” Having spent the best of 30
years in the industry, Steiner’s
career has taken him from South
Africa to the United States and
just about everywhere in between.
So how does working in China
compare to working elsewhere
in the world? “I’ve been here
coming on for 20 years now,”
he says. “China was a lot different back then. My very first job
here [in China] was at the newly
opened Holiday Inn in Urumqi,
in Xinjiang – it was the first foreign owned hotel of its kind to
open there, so it was – as you
can imagine – quite the experience!” Of course, today, Urumqi
is the capital of a booming western economic hub, linking China
to central Europe
and beyond. “Yes,
but back in the
90s it was still very
underdeveloped
and living costs
were very cheap.
For example, we
could eat out at
the very best restaurants and drink
all the beer we
wanted and still
not spend more
than RMB150!” he
says. “Back then
you could live like a king in a
poor country, but today we foreigners are the poor people in a
land of kings!”
So what is Steiner’s favorite
country? “That has to be
Malaysia,” he says. “It’s where
my wife is from, and where I
consider to be home – well, it’s
where we visit during vacation
time at least. It’s also has a very
warm and pleasant climate – not
like Beijing! – it’s
so extreme here,
the winters, the
summers, there’s
never any normal
weather!” So
what about his
native home –
Germany, does
he ever miss it?
“No, it’s too cold!
Besides, it’s been
so long since
I’ve actually lived
there, it feels like
a different life.”
But what about good quality
German food? “I actually prefer
lighter tastes,” he says. “It’s one
of the benefits of working at
great hotels, you get to try all
different local foods prepared
by local chefs. German food is
very meat heavy – all that pork
knuckle, though I do sometimes
eat it. I like variation. I think
that’s important.”
also come with its fair share of
challenges. Did Steiner ever find
it hard to adapt to a new country? “Obviously some places are
more difficult than others,” he
says rather diplomatically. “But
every country has it’s own set
of challenges.” But if he had
to name one? “I wouldn’t say I
didn’t enjoy it – but working in
Nigeria was not always easy, at
the time it was very unsafe, so
we couldn’t really go out alone,
and the workers were not all
that cooperative – any excuse
not to work!”
So, not like China then? “The
complete opposite, Chinese
staff are so incredibly hardworking and want to learn – always
learning. It encourages me to
stay sharp, otherwise they’d take
my job too!”
// Yunnan Dasha, Northeast Taiyanggong
Bridge, Chaoyang朝阳区东北三环西坝河太
阳宫桥东北角,云南大厦(64298888)
Constant variation of course, can
Beijing Bestsellers
Fiction
Art & Design
Non-Fiction
Children's Books
THE GREAT GATSBY
INFERNO
DEAR LIFE STORIES
TO KILL A MOCKINGBIRD
RED SORGHUM
FAMILY CORLEONE
OF MICE AND MEN
THE PLAGUE
PENGUIN DECADES: A CLOCKWORK ORANGE
FALL OF THE HOUSE OF USHER AND OTHER WRI
CHINESE STUFF
GUINNESS WORLD RECORDS 2014
THINKING IN NEW BOXES
RULES TO BREAK
HOW TO COACH: COACHING YOURSELF & YOUR TE
FIRM: STORY OF MCKINSEY & ITS SECRET
101 STORIES FOR FOREIGNERS TO UNDERSTAND CHINESE PEOPLE
RULES OF LIFE
KLUTZ KNITTING: LEARN TO KNIT SIX GREAT PROJECTS
PLAY IN BEIJING
IT'S NOT HOW GOOD YOU ARE, IT'S HOW GOOD
DAMN GOOD ADVICE
PATTERN MAGIC
JAPONISME AND THE RISE OF THE MODERN ART
FRENCH ACCENTS
CIVILIZATIONS OF THE ANCIENT WORLD
ECO FASHION
POSTSECRET
KPF: ARCHITECTURE & URBANISM
THE DESIGN BOOK
HUNGER GAMES #3 MOCKINGJAY
THEA STILTON & LEGEND OF FIRE FLOWERS
THE SEA OF MONSTERS
5-MINUTE MARVEL STORIES
WIMPY KID MOVIE DIARY: HOW GREG HEFFLE
LEGO LEGENDS OF CHIMA #2 BEWARE OF WOLVE
LEGO STAR WARS: EMPIRE STRIKES OUT
DISNEY PLANES READ-ALONG STORYBOOK
HUNGER GAMES #1
GS CREEPELLA #5 FRIGHT NIGHT
Shop 3B201, Zone 3, China World Mall, No.1 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District T:(+86 10) 8535 1055
Shop LG50, Indigo, No.18 Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District T:(+86 10) 8426 0408
Shop Units S2-14a-b,No.19 Sanlitun Road Chaoyang District T:(+86 10) 6417 6626
www.pageonegroup.com
weibo.com/pageonechina
site.douban.com/pageone
February
2014////www.thatsmags.com
www.thatsmags.com
July 2012
25
27
collage
arts
High Notes
Let’s get it on
Roses are the Valentine’s Day equivalent
of “duh.” Nothing says “I forgot” and
“24-hour supermarket” like chocolates.
There is no dignity in a stuffed bear.
But the gift of music is sophisticated,
cultured and memorable – especially
when it leads to sex. And if played
right, the China Radio Traditional Music
Ensemble just may help you get some
this year with a program celebrating a
century of Chinese love songs.
Beyond ‘The Butterfly Lovers,’ China’s
most-touted love tune, this program
includes gems that harken to an early
20th-century Shanghai, Taiwan and a
pop renaissance tragically cut short.
Listen for: ‘Meigui, Meigui, Wo Ai Ni’
(‘Rose, Rose, I Love You)
First recorded for the 1940 version of
the film Singing Girl, this bouncy pentatonic tune was an international hit for
vocalist Yao Li. The song’s exotic melody
and unassuming innocence caught the
ear of American singer Frankie Lane,
who in 1951 recorded an English version for what was the first release by
Columbia Records. The song reached
Number 3 on the US Billboard charts,
and to this day remains one of the
highest-charting pop songs in the US
by a Chinese composer.
Listen for: ‘Wang Bu Liao’ (‘Love
Without End’)
This is pure AM radio gold. Originally
the theme of the celebrated 1961
Taiwanese film of the same name, this
sultry jazz-inspired ballad originally
sung by songstress Gu Mei has become
a repertoire standard – and rightfully
so. Though notable versions include an
overly-sweet one by Teresa Teng and a
sultry Cai Qin cover, none come close
to Frances Yip (Ye Liyi), who sings an
English version in syrupy alto that rivals
Karen Carpenter on her best day. JT
// RMB50-880, 7.30pm. Forbidden City
Concert Hall, Forbidden City Concert Hall,
Inside Zhongshan Park, Xichang’an Jie,
Xicheng District 中山公园音乐堂, 西城区
西长安街中山公园内 (6559 8285, www.
fcchbj.com )
26
Last month’s
box office
FILM
Coming to a theater near you…
Frozen
2/5
The latest Disney hit has grossed
over US$700 million worldwide,
while inspiring universal acclaim. Based on Hans Christian
Andersen’s The Snow Queen, the
film follows a princess called
Anna (Kristen Bell) as she tries
to find her sister Elsa (Idina
Menzel), who has the power of
creating ice and snow. As she
runs away, she accidentally traps
the kingdom in eternal winter. A
mountain man, his pet reindeer
and a snowman come along for
a ride that’s been called Disney’s
best since The Lion King.
2/6
Robocop
A reboot of the classic 1980s action series Robocop will finally
be released. Joel Kinnaman (The
Killing) steps into the inconic
role as police officer Alex James
Murphy, who is transformed into
the robotic crime fighter after an
explosion injures him. Brazilian
director José Padilha brings his
expertise from previous series,
The Elite Squad movies. They
are joined by a strong cast that
includes Oscar nominees Gary
Oldman and Samuel L. Jackson,
while Michael Keaton stars as the
villainous CEO.
Gossip
1. Despicable Me 2
2. Ender’s Game
3. Police Story 2013
4. Personal Tailor
5. As the Light Goes Out
6. Hello Babies
7. Up in the Wind
8. Metro
9. The Mortal
Instruments: City of
Bones
10. Legendary: Tomb of
the Dragon
Source: MTime.com
Weibo whine
Despite breaking records with
his new comedy, Personal Tailor,
Feng Xiaogang made the news
after posting several venomous
posts on Weibo. With critics decrying the film as his worst, the
director struck back, dismissing
the haters as “cultural Nazis,”
and chiding them for not understanding the movie he describes
as a breakthrough in Mainland
satire.
No. 1 Dad
Mario’s revenge
Zhang Yimou is one of China’s
great filmmakers, but he’s been in
the news lately for different reasons. Rumors had been swirling
that the five-time Golden Globe
Award nominee has fathered
seven children. Zhang finally
came clean on camera to Xinhua
admitting he had fathered three
children. His alleged punishment
for the septet was a record RMB7
million fine. Next film? Seven
Million Dollar Babies…
Nintendo’s stock surged
10.76 percent on the news
a 14-year video game consoles ban in China had been
overturned. Rivals Sony also
experienced a slight rise in
stocks. Under the new rules,
foreign enterprises can even
manufacture game consoles
within Shanghai’s free trade
zone, with worries over violent
content and moral decay seemingly a thing of the past.
Edited by james tiscione
[email protected]
You’ve Never Read
Mao Zedong
What is the only book whose
circulation can compete with The
Bible? It is, of course, Quotations
From Chairman Mao, also known
as the Little Red Book. These days,
sadly, much like the Word of God,
Mao’s popular text ain’t nearly as
read as it used to be. But boy, did
it use to be.
Publishing history began at the
1959 Lushan Conference, which
saw Defense Minister and Great
Leap Forward critic Peng Dehuai
purged, and Lin Biao ascend to
the role of Mao’s heir apparent.
Lin preached that “Mao Zedong
Thought is the pinnacle of
Marxism-Leninism” and a “shortcut to learning Marxism-Leninism”.
Soon after began the mass fervor
of learning and adopting Mao
Zedong Thought across China.
The first edition of Quotations was
compiled by the Liberation Army
Daily, who picked 25 subjects and
267 sayings from Mao’s articles
and speeches.
“Once grasped by all common
Chinese people, Mao’s thought
will be a powerful atomic bomb,”
wrote Lin in the book. The learning frenzy that would lead to
Mao’s personality cult thus began
in the PLA, but soon spread to every household. Over the next three
years, books on Marxist-Leninism
made way for Mao to ensure “99
percent of Chinese carefully study
Chairman Mao’s sayings.”
To make it convenient to learn
them anytime, anyplace, the
quotations were adapted to a size
suitable for most pockets. By 1966,
about 300 mainland publishers
were printing the book, to ensure
that every Chinese had a copy to
hand. To print more than 5 billion
copies, it is estimated that 650,000
Transcripted
“1942 was my most elaborate project,
yet it lost a great deal. While I did not devote that much to Personal Tailor, it has
earned RMB400 million in one week.
Honestly, I am more than confused.”
Famed director
Feng Xiaogang reflects on the success of latest film
Personal Tailor.
Best known for his
humorous New
Year’s Celebration
films, or hesui
pian, Feng has
had mixed success breaking out
of comedy. His
last film, Return
to 1942, paired the weighty subject of the Henan famine with appearances from a pair of Academy Award-winning actors, and was
supposed to be his breakthrough. Instead, it was his Waterloo, with
poor reviews and a disappointing box office. Ironically, controversial
Feng found one fan of the film, winning an Outstanding Director
award at December’s Huabiao Film Awards, the highest film prize
awarded by the Ministry of Culture.
tons of paper was used, more than
the total amount (593,400 tons)
for all other books printed in China
from 1950 to 1965. By early 1967,
Quotations had been published in
117 countries around the world,
with an inscription for the international version by Lin: “Proletariat
around the world, unite.”
Sayings such as “Political
power grows out of the barrel
of a gun”, “Serve the People”,
“We must liberate Taiwan” and
“Women hold up half the sky” began to be quoted in newspapers
around the world – back in China,
they spread to books, stamps,
trains, planes and military automobiles, even temples.
Before mealtimes, families would
hold a small ceremony, facing
Mao’s image, holding the book
over their heads and reciting together loudly “Our reddest sun,
our most respected great leader,
Chairman Mao, live forever, forever, forever!”
This zealous worship stopped
abruptly with the downfall of the
Gang of Four in 1976. The propaganda department stopped publishing the Quotations, even describing it as a “noxious book that
the ambitious Lin Biao has used to
acheive his political goals.”
Yet the book remains popular
among the nostalgic, and pirate
copies are readily available at
tourist sites everywhere. Late last
year in December, a new edition
of the text was published to commemorate the 120th anniversary
of Mao’s birth.
Chen Yu, chief editor and PLA
academic researcher, says the
forthcoming publication has no
political motive. “The Party’s official comment on Mao will never
change once the slogan ‘Long
live the unbeatable Mao Zedong
Thought’ is on Xinhua Men at
Zhongnanhai, and Mao’s photo
still hangs in Tiananmen,” said
Chen. KK
On the Shelves
READ
Just out
The Lienü Zhuan or Exemplary Women of Early China was
compiled during the Han Dynasty around 18 BC and served
as the standard Confucian textbook for female moral education for two millennia. Anna Behnke Kinney translates the text
that is made up of 125 biographies, ranging from women
that resorted to self-mutilation to preserve ritual orthodoxies
to outspoken women stepping in to correct erring rulers.
From the fall of the Qing Dynasty to the Nationalists’ victory,
China was dominated by military strongmen. The Armies of
Warlord China, 1911-1928 covers a period where a remarkable 500 wars took place. The history of these warlord armies
are covered in great detail with sections devoted to uniforms,
aircrafts and awards of the armies (with over 600 rare photographs and illustrations included).
China’s growing influence as a superpower has been analyzed ad nauseum, but Prosperity in China provides a unique
perspective. Leading Chinese scholars weigh in on the
country’s remarkable growth, its international policies and
responsibilities. The nation’s role in maintaining world peace
is discussed, while in-depth analysis is provided on some
of the challenges caused by the country’s rapid economic
growth and global influence.
27
Underground
arts
Godfather
of the Month
Name: Sven Väth
the drop
Godfather of: Trance
Age: 49
Fact: Dude played for like five
Beats, blops and breakz
hours straight last time he was in
Beijing. Respect.
BY Alex Taggart
B
y the time you read this,
the horror will have begun. Spring Festival will
have transformed Beijing into
a grim, frozen ghost town, the
bleakness interrupted only by
angry bursts of noise from cynical fireworks launched purely
out of lethargic obligation.
And all your friends will be in
Thailand.
Never is electronic music more
appropriate than when seeking to escape the grind of a
city at its worst. Step into that
dark room and find a spot near
the subwoofer – let the low
frequencies ripple across your
skin. Stare into space. Forget it
all. Or you could talk to people
and have a good time. Whatevs.
Anyway, here’s the drop on this
month’s best parties.
Spring Festival is traditionally
downtime in the scene, but
there’s actually a bunch of good
stuff this year. First off, join
the lao Beijing EDM heads at
Lantern for a party on Chu Xi
(the Spring Festival equivalent of
New Year’s Eve), January 30. It’s
traditional to stay up all night
for the celebrations, and bumping around til 7am is basically
what we do at Lantern every
weekend. There’ll be techno,
more techno, deeper techno,
some house, probably harder
techno, and free jiaozi.
After the madness is over, get
back to Dada on February 22 for
madness of a different kind.
By February 2, you’ll be in need
of a little jazzy pick-me-up. Hit
up RetroDance at Dada (which
has gigs the whole way through
the festival, by the way), where
the two jolliest DJs in town –
Demone and Brass Funky Joker
of Tangsuan Radio – will be
playing a bunch of retro stuff all
night. These guys tend to play
old-school stuff that stays just
the right side of cheesy, and
occasionally throw down some
rare vinyl action… jazz and funk
and whatnot.
If you’ve ever woken up after
a night at Dada with an inexplicable cassette tape in your
pocket, don’t worry, you’re not
in Back to the Future and you
haven’t just had sex with your
own mother (kind of a weird
plotline for a children’s film,
I’ve always thought) – it’s those
kooky 87FEI87 rascals again, the
guys who give out tapes of their
latest analogue synth-and-drummachine-driven funk tunes at
their shows. Good luck with
playing them.
Ho Hey!
The Lumineers’ quiet storm
BY Andrew Chin
W
hile the record industry continues to
adjust to the digital
age, Colorado indie-folk rockers
The Lumineers can attest to the
power of one song.
hearing and seeing a musician
playing their instruments without
amplification.”
Though the band arrives this
month for its first Mainland shows,
this is not Schultz’s first time on
these shores.
A video of their performance of ‘Ho
Hey’ in a small apartment caught
the eyes of their future managers,
who would help bankroll their 2012
self-titled album.
Months after its official release, the
song topped the Billboard Rock
Song charts for 14 weeks and charted in the top 10 in ten other countries, en route to over four million
copies sold. For group frontman
and co-songwriter Wesley Schultz,
it was all a happy accident.
“We figured it would never work
as a recorded song and would be
a thing that happens live,” he says.
“I look at that song as our foot in
28
“I actually spent three months basically cutting my teeth learning the
craft of songwriting and trying to
hone it in Hangzhou,” he explains.
The sound of old America
the door, a sort of needle to get the
whole album into people’s ears.”
Spurred on by the single’s success, the group’s debut peaked at
No. 2 on the Billboard charts, and
The Lumineers garnered a pair of
Grammy nominations last year,
including Best Americana album.
It’s a sound that has attracted millions of fans hungry for a roots
revival. The trend can also be seen
in Beijing where the city’s wenqing
or artistic young have flocked to
urban folk artists like Song Donye,
Liu Dongming and Hao Yun.
Schultz offers his insight into the
movement. “I do know that because of the popularity of hip-hop
and more produced electronic
music, people are refreshed by
“A buddy was at university there
and said that it would be cheap
if I could afford a plane ticket. I
remember there being a strange
violin-type instrument that people
would play on the streets and ask
folks for money. I am gonna try to
get one of those.”
// Feb 11, 8pm, RMB200-260. Tango 3F 79
Hepingxi Jie, Dongcheng District. 糖果3层,
东城区和平里西街79号 (6428 2288)
Music
3’s a Charm
the latest release from Carsick Cars is sicker than ever
BY Andrew Chin
named after the cigarette brand
named after the official living quarters
of the Chinese leadership, became a
No Beijing anthem.
“I’m really happy about that because
we are the first Chinese band that
didn’t know how to play our instruments,” Zhang says.
“For young kids, it’s important to see
bands that don’t know how to play so
well but have some interesting ideas
that make them pick up a guitar and
make some noise.”
Their 2009 follow-up, You Can Listen,
You Can Talk was accompanied by a
20-city national tour, a rarity for any
Chinese band, and something that
Zhang calls the most important experience of his life.
I
t’s been nearly nine years since
indie-rock trio Carsick Cars
pulled into the Beijing underground, and like any band that has
made it this far, they've had their
share of broken bones.
“I was pumped with adrenaline and
didn't even feel it,” said frontman
Zhang Shouwang, who suffered a
broken heel in November during
Shanghai's Midi Festival. Though Zhang has since performed
for the past couple of months with
a cast, the band hits the ground
running with a long-awaited third
release, 3 (Maybe Mars) on February
28 at Yugong Yishan.
“I wrote so many songs. We actually recorded too many, so we
released the extra songs as an EP on
Christmas,” Zhang says.
Recorded over two weeks last April,
Zhang enlisted Spacemen 3’s Sonic
Boom (MGMT, Panda Bear) and
Hamish Kilgour of the influential New
Zealand indie-group The Clean to help
record and mix their first album in
almost five years.
With help from new bassist He Fan (of
Maybe Mars labelmates Birdstriking)
and drummer Sun Heting (Skip Skip
Ben Ben), Zhang notes that having
a drummer that isn’t “learning on the
‘I’m really happy about that
because we are the first Chinese
band that didn’t know how to play
our instruments’
job” has allowed the band to take
more musical chances.
“It’s definitely the most melodic album
I’ve ever written, but half of it is also
kind of experimental,” Zhang says.
“I’ve always been into simple pop
songs like the Ramones. Musically,
we found our sound as making pop
songs with noisier guitar sounds.”
That experimentation, Zhang explains,
lies in the instrumentation, where he
plays guitar by hitting it on songs like
“Midnight Driver”. While Zhang has kept busy touring internationally and with other projects,
including experimental solo act White
+, his band has not only influenced
musicians at home, but in many ways
was the first internationally visible face
of Chinese indie.
Formed in March 2005 while attending university, Zhang and current
Snapline members Li Qing and Li
Weisi together led the nascent ‘No
Beijing’ movement, inspired by the
droning guitar of New York No Wave
community of the 1970s that produced Sonic Youth.
The band eventually reached the ears
of the legendary New York group,
who later declared Carsick Cars their
favorite Chinese band and invited the
band to open for them on their 2007
European tour.
“It was the first time we went abroad
and they were our heroes,” Zhang
says. “We learned so much about
music and being a musician. They
have a reputation of always helping
young bands. They helped Nirvana
and they helped a really unknown
Chinese band. If we get famous, then
we should always try to help young
people, too.”
Their 2007 debut, Panda Noise, was
the first step toward that goal. Their
song ‘Rock and Roll Hero’ has become
a common staple for new Mainland
bands to cover, while ‘Zhongnanhai’,
The tolls of touring led to an amiable split and Zhang kept the name
alive as a touring act fine-tuning the
lineup. They’re one of China’s most
popular draws, headlining last year’s
DongDong International Music
Festival and the Strawberry Music
Festival in Beijing and Shanghai.
They’re also active internationally,
playing major festivals like South
by Southwest (SXSW) in Texas, All
Tomorrow’s Parties in London and
the Primavera Festival in Barcelona.
They’ve embarked on tours across
Australia, South Korea and the United
Kingdom and will depart for a 19-city
North American tour in mid-March.
“Touring is part of being in a band,”
Zhang says. “The fun part of being
a musician is you can travel to different places, play with different bands
and see something that you’ve never
experienced.”
While his broken foot scuttled
their plans for a national tour last
December, the band plans to visit between 16 and 20 cities late spring.
That’s not to say his injury hasn’t
yielded good things.
“Not a lot of songwriting, but it forced
me to finally figure out these old
complicated synthesizers I’ve had for a
while that have been sitting around. I
had nothing else to do.”
//RMB100 (RMB80 presale), Feb 28, 9pm.
Yugongyishan (see listings for details).
29
arts
books
It’s time to re-evaluate Cixi – but to what extent?
BY Jeremiah Jenne
I
t’s a remarkable story. In 1851,
a year into his reign, a 15-yearold girl enters the palace as
a consort of the young Xianfeng
Emperor. She rises slowly through
the ranks of imperial concubines,
before taking the fast-track approach of bearing the emperor
a male heir. When the emperor,
a notorious drunk of generally
poor health, dies nine years later,
she parlays her position as mother
to the heir apparent into a regency
that leaves her the de facto ruler
of the Qing Empire for nearly
five decades.
Décadence Mandchoue and
subject of Hugh Trevor-Roper’s
pitiless biography Hermit of
Peking – is partially to blame.
In the dying years of the Qing
Empire, Backhouse lurked down
the backstreets and male brothels
of Peking’s notorious Badlands. A
brilliant linguist, and even better
fabulist, he peddled his ‘connections’ with the court (particularly,
an extremely intimate — but entirely fictional — liaison with Cixi
herself) to journalists and scholars. These graphic descriptions of the
Empress’s court often bordered
on the pornographic – such as an
imagined claim to clitoral sodomy,
memorably described by Geremie
Barme in The Forbidden City as
“a role reversal of the trope of
prostrate 19th-century China being penetrated by the Western
powers.” But they easily satisfied
Backhouse’s listeners – and their
readers – eager to confirm their
most prurient fears and titillations
about what went on behind the
Forbidden City walls.
So why has history been so unkind
to the Empress Dowager Cixi? The first problem, of course, was
that she was born a woman.
Historians in China have long
viewed women in power as,
at best, an aberration from the
norm and, at worst, as disaster
for the empire. Wu Zetian, the
only female in history to sit on
the Dragon Throne has been
the subject of rumors about her
unquenchable thirst for power
and more salacious appetites
ever since. Like Empress Wu, powerful
Chinese women from ‘Madame
Mao’ Jiang Qing to Gu Kailai are
routinely portrayed as power-hungry, sexually aggressive, irrational,
and invariably evil (Jiang committed suicide in prison, while Gu
is currently serving a suspended
death sentence; her own husband
Bo Xilai dismissed her as “insane”
during his trial). Such characterizations find easy purchase in
Western writing of China, fitting
neatly into hoary old Orientalist
tropes about the fearsome and
exotic ‘Dragon Lady.’ According to popular stories and
apocryphal palace gossip, Cixi
not only used arcane sexual tech-
30
niques on the emperor so that she
might bear his son, but later poisoned her own child lest he grow
to maturity and usurp her power
as imperial regent.
She is also accused of ordering the
murders of her son’s wife the empress, her unborn grandchild, her
co-regent the Empress Dowager
Ci’an, her nephew (whom she
made emperor after the death
of the ill-fated Tongzhi Emperor),
her nephew’s favorite concubine,
and scores of other courtiers,
eunuchs and officials who had
the temerity to defy her. Indeed,
if the myths and legends are to
be believed, it would appear only
smallpox had a higher body count
in the 19th century than the
Empress Dowager.
Given her long and turbulent
reign, and its disastrous coda, it
is unsurprising therefore that Cixi
has come to represent the apogee
of the archetype.
British charlatan Sir Edmund
Trelawny Backhouse – unreliable
author of the salacious memoir
Since 1949, though, Chinese historians have prudishly avoided
dwelling on Cixi’s sex life – but
only because they were busy
blaming her for the demise of the
Qing, the imperial system, and
civilization in general. Cixi was
the greedy monarch who spent
naval funds on a marble boat,
rather than an army to defend the
country from rapacious foreigners. Her stubborn and ignorant archconservatism doomed the empire
and stifled any attempts at reform,
it has long been claimed.
Even today, many Chinese consider her the embodiment of all
that was wrong with a humiliating
and dark era in their history.
In recent years, however, Cixi
has enjoyed
BY Maura elizabeth Cunningham
Empress Dowager Cixi and
Mao’s widow, Jiang Qing, stand
as the two most-reviled women
of modern Chinese history. For
decades, both Chinese and
foreigners alike have regarded
them as Dragon Ladies: scheming, power-hungry and totally
indifferent to the chaos that
their plotting caused among
the people.
The 2004 Chinese miniseries Marching to the Republic,
meanwhile, portrayed her as
a woman of great power and ability, if perhaps still too conservative
and ruthless to save the Manchu
empire. But it is the British-based
Jung Chang’s recently published
biography Empress Cixi: The
Concubine Who Launched Modern
China (see ‘Regal Reformer?,’ right)
that goes the furthest, casting Cixi
as a frustrated reformer whose
leadership was thwarted – and her
reputation besmirched – by the
small and petty men that she relied upon to carry out her orders. Undoubtedly, the real Cixi lies
somewhere in between: neither
Dragon Lady nor the proto-feminist of Chang’s imagination. And
the greatest challenge for historians is that Cixi left relatively few
written records of her own. The sensible money sees Cixi
simply as a successful player of her
own courtly times – less a Dragon
Lady, more a Michael Corleone. She was smart, ruthless, and politically astute; it’s clear that she was
not averse to ordering the death
of an opponent. But she was
hardly the serial murderess of
some earlier accounts. At the same time, like Michael
in The Godfather Part II, she saw
accumulation of power as a way
to save the family, but became
so obsessed with it that she ultimately destroyed all she held dear. In the end, Cixi was unable to let
go of minor grievances or to allow
for the kinds of reforms needed
to preserve her line. Cixi feared
that even the slightest showing of
weakness would be her undoing
and the overthrow of the imperial line – in the end, ironically, it
would prove just the opposite. After stripping away over a
century of gossip and hearsay, we
have left a woman of great power
and ability. Perhaps not a highly
educated one, but a woman with
a keen ability to understand, and
to use people for her own designs. For better or ill, she was the gravitational center of the Qing Empire
during its darkest days. But if we can credit Cixi with holding the center together for as long
as she did, it is also fair to blame
her for not preparing for the
future adequately. Even the most
wishful feminist thinking cannot
avoid Cixi’s most glaring failure:
making decisions that made sense
in the short term but ultimately
undermined the very foundations
of Qing rule.
// Jeremiah Jenne is the director of the IES Abroad
Beijing Center, where he teaches Chinese history
and philosophy, and author of the blog ‘Jottings
from the Granite Studio’
It’s difficult to imagine that
anyone will come forward to
defend Jiang, but you never
know — before Jung Chang’s
new biography of Cixi, few
were speaking on her behalf,
either. Empress Dowager Cixi:
The Concubine Who Launched
Modern China makes a case for
viewing Cixi not as a conservative reactionary, standing in
the way of development, but
rather as a far-sighted progressive whose modernization program has been buried by her
enemies. Cixi, originally a lowranking concubine of Emperor
Xianfeng, managed to seize
power in her son’s name after
the emperor’s death in 1861,
and maintain control of it for
most of the time between then
and her death in 1908.
Cixi certainly deserves another
look, and Chang’s book will
likely spark a new round of
scholarship. But, in the end,
Chang works so hard to defend
Cixi that she seems blind to the
Empress Dowager’s failings.
Perhaps the relevant historical
parallel is not between Cixi and
Jiang, but Cixi and Mao (subject
of Chang’s co-written 2005
biography, Mao: The Unknown
Story). When we examine
Cixi’s accomplishments and
misdeeds, maybe we’ll also find
that she was 70 percent good
and 30 percent bad.
// Maura Elizabeth Cunningham is a historian
and writer based in Shanghai. Follow her on
Twitter @mauracunningham
The Qing collapsed in 1912,
an event generally blamed on
corrupt mismanagement of the
empire. But Chang has mined
historical archives to find another side of Cixi’s story, one
that shows her standing up to
court conservatives and trying
to build China’s navy, railroads,
telegraph lines and international profile in the face of heavy
opposition. Far from resisting
change, Chang argues, Cixi understood that China needed it
to survive in the modern world.
In her attempt to rehabilitate
Cixi, however, Chang goes a
few steps too far. She down-
Photos by 1tu
the partial rehabilitation that only
progressive politics can provide.
Sterling Seagrave’s 1993 biography
Dragon Lady was – despite its title
– one of the earliest attempts to
rescue Cixi from historical ignominy at the hands of Backhouse.
plays the Empress Dowager’s
ruthlessness, excusing the fact
that Cixi ordered the murder
of her adopted son, Emperor
Guangxu, by explaining that he
had planned to assassinate Cixi
first. Chang similarly minimizes
the decision to restore the new
Summer Palace with funds
skimmed from the Treasury
by pointing out that her plan
was to take “only” a small
percent of interest income (a la
Office Space).
31
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32
“Where did you find that?!
That’s a funny one,” laughs
Jagger, when asked about
his 1983 turn as Emperor of
all Cathay in Hans Christian
Andersen’s The Nightingale,
from children’s television anthology series Faerie Tale Theatre.
“Shelly Duvall was producing
this whole series and getting all
her mates to do parts in them,
and she talked me into doing
that one, which was a very odd
one. Was that in the 80s?” he
asks. “I vaguely remember it.
And she sent me a very nice
painting of my part in it, which
is very peculiar which I’ve got on
my wall somewhere.”
The role would seem to suit him
– two of Jagger’s major interests
away from music are film and
history. His production company
Jagged Films’ first release was
Enigma, a fictionalized account
of the Bletchley Park codebreak-
ers in WWII, for which he was
able to provide access to his
own Enigma machine. But by his
own admission, he’s not so hot
on the Sinosphere.
“I’m a bit of a history buff, but
that’s not really my period or my
place,” the 70-year-old admits.
“It is not that I am not a fan, but
I’m not very knowledgeable. It
is so long and complex. I dip in
and out occasionally, to different
periods, but I wouldn’t consider
myself an expert.”
Looking at the history of China
in his own lifetime though,
when the Stones first exploded
onto the scene in the 1960s the
country was in a period of international isolation and internal
chaos. In those days, Jagger
never imagines that they would
one day play here.
“No. I mean there was no way
that you thought that would
ever happen,” he says. So when
did they first start considering
the possibility? “Was it Wham!
that was the first band that
played in China? When they
played I thought, ‘You never
know,’ you know? Stranger
things have happened. And it
did in the end.”
After being cancelled once in
2003 due to the SARS scare, the
Stones finally made their maiden, and until now only mainland
performance in Shanghai in
2006, as part of the A Bigger
Bang tour. And in true rock’n’roll
tradition, Sir Mick doesn’t seem
to remember too much about it.
“Testing my memory… um… it
was nice. It was kind of slightly
odd because of never having
played there not knowing what
to expect, you know? It was a
good gig. A few friends of mine
were there. It was a laugh. We
had a guest and everything.”
That guest was Cui Jian, ‘The
Father of Chinese Rock’ (see
China Learns to Rock in Yaogun
101, p62), who joined the
Stones on stage to perform
‘Wild Horses.’ So how had they
heard about him?
“I can’t remember! Someone
kind of introduced him, and
he was very keen on playing,”
says Jagger. “It was a kind of
moment. It was my favorite
moment of the concert, actually. It was a strange guest, but
it worked out, it was very fun.
And I can’t remember how I met
him. He’s got a strange history
really, all in all, going back in the
world of Chinese rock and pop
music.”
On the subject of memory
lapses, stage fright appeared to
get the better of Cui, and Jagger
had to jump in to help him with
the lyrics.
“We did a rehearsal – that went
alright! But you know, doing
guests is always a bit… we did
a lot of guests on the last tour.
Sometimes it works out fantastic
and sometimes it tends to be a
The Emperor of all Cathay
“Yeah. I mean that is really…
flattering, if you want. That you
figure in the history book of it.
The odd thing is that rock’n’roll
has evolved its own canon. In
the way that, say, white novelists
have, or English poets.
“I always compare it to jazz,”
Jagger continues, “because jazz
was the downtrodden music of
a minority group. And it was
considered a kind of ‘here today,
gone tomorrow’ kind of thing.
In the 20s jazz was just a fad.”
The same, he says, was true of
rock’n’roll in the 1950s.
“It was dance music, it was a
fad, it was for young people –
no one thought much about it.
Avin’ a laugh with Keef
‘Rock’n’roll was
considered a
bad infIuence
in America
because it was,
they thought,
the music of
black people’
bit odd, but it’s always fun.” So
will they have guests this time
round?
“I don’t know. I’m up for suggestions!” We’ll put the word
out to the readers then? “Yeah
definitely,” Jagger laughs. “I’m
available.”
Given that the Stones couldn’t
conceive of playing China for
so many decades, they were
surprised to find out about the
reach of their music and how
much of an influence they had
been on the likes of individuals
like Cui Jian and the nation’s
nascent rock scene as a whole.
“You never thought that would
happen. You never see that coming when Little Richard made
a record when I was 14 and I
would dance to it – and I still
would if it came on.
“In those days in the 50s you
never thought that it would
evolve into this historical thing
with criticism and appreciation
and so on. The idea that these
people influenced these people,
and studying it in school, learning this song and that song –
that was sort of unimaginable
really.”
Yet happen it did, and it is well
documented that the Stones
DNA runs through Chinese rock.
And just as with the Stones
some 30-40 years earlier, early
Chinese rockers and their music
were met with suspicion by authorities and the establishment.
“Well it was suspected in
America when it came out,” says
Jagger. “Rock’n’roll and all these
early songs were criticized. The
mayor of some small town in
America would ban it. It was seriously criticized. And then you
had riots in the early days and
people thought it was generally
a bad influence.”
So what does this old sympathizer with the devil think of
Satan’s music – is rock’n’roll a
bad influence?
A fresh-faced young Mick
Even though there were some
very clever musicians, they
weren’t really recognized at the
time.
“Then as it evolved, it became
a lot more sophisticated, with
different styles. And then what
makes it into this canon thing
is the music critics of various
stripes. And it wasn’t really until
the 60s before that started happening.
“And I’m not necessarily saying that’s a good thing – it’s an
ephemeral kind of thing. But
you know, people started analyzing and stratifying. And then
eventually, like jazz, a whole
critical knowledge was acquired
of it.”
It was not something a young
Jagger anticipated – or even
considered – when rock’n’roll
first reached his ears as a teenager growing up in London.
Jagger laughs, but quickly
makes a serious point. “It was a
bad influence in America mainly
because it was, they thought,
the music of black people. And
they didn’t – in the days of Elvis
and so on – they didn’t want
their children to be influenced
by this kind of music.
“Well that’s obviously bollocks,”
Jagger asserts. “Because the
parents themselves had been
dancing to jazz and so on,
which is the same argument.
But rock’n’roll was not seen as a
benign thing.”
And the opposition was not
limited to the early days. Or to
America.
“It was repeated. Spain, for
instance, banned rock’n’roll in
the Franco era. It had this representation of Western decadence
and rebellion, I suppose. And
on both sides of the political
spectrum. In Eastern Europe it
was banned a lot during the
communist time. And of course
in various Asian countries, China
33
arts
arts
ago. He was pretty inspirational
as a performer, you know, a
real killer on stage. He taught
everyone so many things, apart
from the moves. How to get the
energy up and all that. The relationship with the crowd. The
way he manipulated them really
was a lesson to learn when you
watched him.”
in particular. So it had this relic
of… a sort of an anachronistic
rebellion.”
Jagger not only sees the music
as a force for good, but believes
the rock’n’roll revolution to be
all but won.
“Cultural boundaries should be
always open and I think that
has been proved over and over.
And anyway what I’m talking
is just nonsense these days.
That’s been broken years ago –
20 years ago or more as far as
most countries are concerned.
Nearly all culture crosses. Of
course there are some things
attempted to be stopped and
some bits banned, but the majority of it gets through.”
Back in 2006, Chinese authorities cut five Stones songs
because of suggestive lyrics
– ‘Brown Sugar,’ ‘Honky Tonk
Woman,’ ‘Beast of Burden,’ ‘Let’s
Spend the Night Together’ and
‘Rough Justice.’ Does he think
that is likely to happen again?
The “walk-on” Jagger scene in
the movie depicts the filming
of classic rock‘n’roll movie The
T.A.M.I. Show, a concert at the
Santa Monica Civic Auditorium
in October, 1964 that featured a
stellar billing that included the
Beach Boys, Chuck Berry, Marvin
Gaye and Smokey Robinson, as
well as Brown and the Stones.
The super 70s, from left: Charlie Watts, Keith
Richards, Bill Wyman, Mick Jagger and Ronnie Wood
“Yeah, I don’t know if that is
apocryphal,” says Jagger. “That
is really going back a long way.
We put this in the movie, so I
kind of did a lot of research on
that. I don’t know if he really
said that. But it looks good in
the movie.”
“Well I’ll let you know. Because
you still have to submit a list
[of songs]. I think everyone has
to submit a list. There are still
some controls and still oversight and things like that, which
in England or America would be
really odd.”
Displaying his trademark humor, Mick declared of the ban
that he was “pleased that the
Ministry of Culture is protecting
the morals of the expat bankers
and their girlfriends that are going to be coming.”
“The expat morals,” Jagger remembers with a good chuckle.
“Oh dear, I think they’re past
it – the morals I mean, not their
age!”
Away from the Stones, Jagger
has a biopic of a certain Soul
Brother Number One in the
works.
“I was asked to produce a documentary on James Brown by
a friend of mine, and I turned
around and said, ‘Well why
don’t we do a feature?’ And of
course, as the story always is in
Hollywood, there already was a
feature, but it had been put on
the shelves.”
The film, Get On Up, was originally going to be directed by
Spike Lee, who had cast Eddie
Murphy as Brown.
34
The Stones were chosen to
close the show — a decision
that somewhat irked the Brown
ego. In a moment of heated
backstage drama, he taunted
the band, telling them, “I’m
gonna make you Rollin’ Stones
wish you’d never left England.”
Or so the legend goes…
Sharing stage secrets with James Brown
‘I was like 20.
I wasn’t trying
to outdo James
Brown. That
wasn’t my
intention’
Blowin’ on the ol’ harmonica
“But it fell to bits for various
reasons that I can’t even bore
you with. And so I revived it
with a friend of mine called
Brian Grazer, who owned some
of the rights, and we got it going. And in Hollywood terms,
quite quickly. So it will be out in
America in August.”
Eversman. So did Jagger get a
say in the casting?
Charting Brown’s incredible
journey from abject poverty
in Georgia to becoming the
Godfather of Soul, the list of
characters includes one Mick
Jagger, played by up and
coming American actor Nick
When the Stones first took
America by storm as part of the
1960s British Invasion, Jagger
would find himself performing
on the same bill as Brown.
“Yeah I did. It’s only really a
walk-on scene. It’s only one
little scene in the movie.”
Eversman got the seal of approval though? “Yeah… great
one line!”
“God, well that’s a long time
Brown’s set was scorching
though, and he later claimed he
never danced faster in his life.
The pressure was on Jagger to
find a way to out-perform him.
“Weeell… It wasn’t really, because the thing was – it is a bit
of a let down – but we didn’t
go on immediately after him, or
with the same audience even,”
Jagger confesses, thoroughly
busting the rock’n’roll myth.
“It was a movie. So there was
a big break and they changed
the audience, so it wasn’t really
like that,” he continues, before
admitting that Brown’s performance did at least spur him on.
“I mean, you know, it’s always
good to be… poked.”
Jagger had been on the scene
for a couple of years though,
had been observing the masters
at work, and by now was adept
at getting audience energy up.
“Yeah. I mean definitely,”
he agrees. So how did
they do it that day?
“We just went on
and did
what
we
early shows: “Three songs and
then a riot would break out.”
On this occasion, the Stones finished their five-song set with Bo
Diddley’s ‘I’m All Right.’ About
a minute in, Jagger settles the
song down, then builds it back
up, bit by bit. “I’m all right…” he
sings over and over, changing
the inflections and increasing
the intensity each of the 15
times he sings the lyric.
Finally, he’s screaming it, shaking his head as wildly as the
maracas he’s holding, and wiggling that delightful little arse
of his in a most provocative
manner. The cacophony
from the frenzied crowd
sounds like a huge flock
of insane seagulls.
Jagger may not have
been able
to out-dance Brown, but it
is possible he trumped him in
the art of audience manipulation.
“But I was like 20, you know
what I mean,” he says of the
performance. “I wasn’t trying
to outdo James Brown. That
wasn’t my intention. It wasn’t
possible to do.”
The video might dispute that.
And 50 years on, Jagger is still
at it. The septuagenarian sticks
to a strict training regime to
prepare himself for the estimated 12 miles he covers during a typical stage show (and
to maintain his skinny 28 inch
waist). And last summer saw the
Stones make their long-awaited
debut at English festival institution Glastonbury.
Good times at Glastonbury
normally did with a bit of extra
push.”
If that sounds understated, it is
worth remembering what the
Stones “normally did” in the
mid-60s, which was whip their
audiences up into a knickersoaked maelstrom of hysteria,
the screaming of their teenage
banshee fans so loud that guitarist Brian Jones used to start
playing ‘Popeye the Sailor Man’
in the middle of ‘Satisfaction’
– and nobody could hear the
difference. Deadpan drummer
Charlie Watts summed up their
“It was a pretty amazing night.
It was a really special atmosphere. They said there had
never been so many people going up the hill,” Jagger says with
pride. “Because you look up a
hill when you’re on stage, and
as far as you can see up this hill
you can see people.
“And it is a pretty wild crowd
by this time. I mean it’s not…
staid. So you really feel it when
you go on, the adrenaline’s really pumping overtime. It was a
pretty amazing experience.”So
he still gets the same buzz after
all these years?
“Oh god, you couldn’t fail to
get a buzz when you went
out there, it was just insane,”
Jagger enthuses. “I went to see
the Arctic Monkeys the night
before to get a good feel for it,
because the thing about that
kind of set is, you don’t get to
rehearse. You never go on the
stage. You can’t, because
there’s always people
on it.
Shanghai
2006
“So I went to see the Arctic
Monkeys, and it’s not the
easiest stage to work. And
of course I tried to make
it work as much as I could.
But it was a fantastic weekend, a really great laugh and
all my kids were there. It was
really great.”
Also marking the Stones
50th anniversary was the release of Crossfire Hurricane, a
documentary featuring archive
footage backed by a series of
interviews with band members
conducted without cameras.
In it Keith Richards describes
‘Midnight Rambler’ as “a blues
opera,” the quintessential
Jagger-Richards song that “nobody else could have written.”
“Yeah, I suppose so…” Jagger
says, with an obvious air of
skepticism. “I always remember Bob Dylan saying no one
else could have written ‘Mr.
Tambourine Man’ – I don’t
know really… I suppose not
though,” he says with a highpitched laugh.
“You did them so no one else
did them,” he elaborates. “You
are what you are, and that’s
your destiny.” Once a song is
written, it is written – insisting after the fact that only you
could have written it, Jagger
believes, “is some sort of oxymoron.”
“It is an interesting song to do,”
he says of ‘Midnight Rambler.’
“A three-part blues piece with
different tempos. With the
blues you don’t normally get
any changes, you know, so it’s
quite an original idea. I think
that’s what he means.”
So is there a particular song
Jagger feels is quintessentially
Stones, that captures the soul of
the band?
“I think most of them,” he says
simply. “I suppose you say
you’ve got some inexplicable
sound or something that no
one else has quite imitated. I
suppose that’s the thing.”
I
t was 44 years in the making, but April 8, 2006
was the night The Rolling
Stones played mainland China
for the first and – until next
month – only time. And as
with 2014, Shanghai was the
only Chinese leg on their twoyear A Bigger Bang tour, the
band arriving from Japan complete with jumbo jet loaded
with almost 100 tons of equipment and set.
At the press conference in
the Four Season’s Hotel,
Keith Richards declared of
finally making it to the Middle
Kingdom, “I feel like Marco
Polo!” Mick Jagger made
light of the fact authorities
had asked the band to cut
five songs – ‘Brown Sugar,’
‘Honky Tonk Woman,’ ‘Beast of
Burden,’ ‘Let’s Spend the Night
Together’ and ‘Rough Justice’ –
from their repertoire because
of suggestive lyrics, saying
they had 400 other songs
to choose from, and adding
that he was, “pleased that the
Ministry of Culture is protecting the morals of the expat
bankers and their girlfriends
that are going to be coming.”
The show itself was unanimously declared an absolute
belter, with an 8,000-strong
crowd cramming into the
Shanghai Grand Stage and
many millions more watching
it on CCTV. The band even invited Cui Jian – ‘The Father of
Chinese Rock’ – to join them
on stage to play ‘Wild Horses.’
The final encore? ‘Satisfaction.’
The audience certainly got
some… yeah, yeah, yeah.
35
cover story
T
R
U
O
C
E
H
T
IN
36
T O F K IN G K
IM
Bromance and
basketball with
Dennis Rodman
in North Korea:
an exclusive first
person account
BY Simon Cockerell
37
cover story
December 14, 2013
“OK, OK, last price – 120 kuai,
OK?” I’ve had my fair share of
strange and confusing experiences – having taken 130 trips to
North Korea over a dozen years,
it pretty much goes with the territory – but acting as personal
shopper for Dennis Rodman in
Beijing’s Yashow Market is up
there with the oddest.
Rodman’s luggage had failed to
arrive in Beijing and the basketball star was due to transfer to
an even-colder Pyongyang the
next day; some winter kit was
essential. Rodman, of course,
has an idiosyncratic style – but
one that Yashow was more than
able to match.
Bargaining over tens of yuan for
NBA-sized red tracksuit pants,
jeans, polo shirts, some horrible
shoes (that were never even
worn), and other accessories
was odd enough – even odder
when the intended wearer is
widely perceived as a millionaire – but seeing the giant star
on CNN in his
eccentric (fake)
clobber was
probably worth
it. Probably.
Along with
the rest of
the world, I
watched with
a combination
of bemusement and
curiosity when
the Dennis
Rodman circus
first wheeled
into town in
Februrary 2013,
courtesy of
VICE media and
accompanied
by the Harlem
Globetrotters.
A young
Marshall Kim
Jong Un would
later watch in
the stands as
Rodman and
co. played an exhibition match
that strained even the hardiest
of cognitive dissonances. But
even this image would come to
seem normal, compared to the
bizarre heights the Rodman project would later reach.
My peripheral involvement in
L’affair Rodman began when
a friend was contracted last
year to arrange his next trip in
September. Although initially
undertaken with little fanfare,
38
it would later emerge that
Rodman spent a substantial
amount of time with Kim himself, hanging out at a resort on
the Sea of Japan (or, to use the
official parlance, the East Sea of
Korea in the Democratic People’s
Republic of Korea, or DPRK) and
meeting his baby girl – whom
Rodman was the first to inform
the world about. Indeed, her
very existence remains an open
secret inside North Korea to this
day. Photos showed Rodman
relaxing with the Marshall, who
he often describes as a close
friend – a view he is utterly sincere about – and singing with
the Moranbong Band, North
Korea’s answer to the Spice Girls.
An all-female ensemble thought
to number around 20 musicians
and singers, and formed under
the guidance of Kim himself, the
Moranbong Band are alarmingly
ubiquitous on North Korean TV
these days. Fashionable young
ladies copy the group’s flattering, pixie-like haircut and the
band has even popularized
above-the-knee
skirts, socially
unacceptable
before their
emergence.
(I had the
brief pleasure
of meeting
some of them
at the Masik
Ski Resort
where the
Moranbong
had gone
for lessons –
mostly wandering around in
pastel skiwear,
though they
did indeed take
to the slopes.
Unfortunately,
a vice minister of sport
declined my
request for a
photo op. The
band were
“very pure” he
said, giving me an appraising
look – I was too “experienced.”
I wheedled for a while (“Surely
they might be interested in
some experience?”) but the
minister insisted – rather presumptuously, in hindsight – that
these K-pop pourri were “too
innocent” and “wouldn’t want”
to meet the likes of me.)
The reason for Rodman’s unprecedented access? Both Kim
Jong Un and his father, the late
Kim Jong Il, were basketball
fans – a ball signed by Michael
Jordan and presented by thenUS Secretary of State Madeline
Albright is one of the main attractions at the International
Friendship Exhibition (see ‘It’s
Grim Up North Korea’ p45),
while the extant Kim, who now
rules over a nuclear-armed, military-first nation of 24 million,
was supposedly an ardent fan
of the Chicago Bulls’ glory days
while schooling in Switzerland.
December 15, 2013
It was for his latest and most
infamous trip that I first met
Dennis and his entourage, a cast
that included his bodyguard
and friend (a former professional fighter and downright
charming man), a professor
of neuroscience at Columbia
University who had met Rodman
while playing ‘horse’ at a charity event, a film crew shooting
a (now eagerly awaited) documentary and a representative
from Paddy Power, the Irish
gambling giant underwriting
the trips at the time (they later
pulled their name in the face of
public criticism).
At Beijing’s Terminal 2, I encountered my first major media scrum. I’d witnessed the
Japanese media corps meet Kim
Jong Il’s former sushi chef, Kenji
Fujimoto, in 2012, but that was
a sedate affair. Falling cameras
and shouting matches punctuated just getting Dennis Rodman a
couple of hundred meters from
his vehicle through customs.
From the shelter of the bus, I
chatted with Dennis and found
him charming, engaging, funny
and interested in North Korea.
But as he openly admitted,
Dennis didn’t know the first
thing about it: not even the
difference between North and
South, let alone the major issues. He was just along for the
ride. It’s easy to mock Dennis
as a clown, as someone out of
his depth, but he plays up to
that. He loves to be the center
of attention, but is also genuine
about wanting to do something
special inside North Korea.
December 31, 2013
It wouldn’t be for another two
weeks that we would meet
again, when I returned to
Pyongyang on New Year’s Eve
(previously, the DPRK had an unexplained ban on tourism over
the Christmas period; this was
then dropped, also without any
explanation).
Fireworks erupted around the
150m-high Juche Tower, and
afterwards we mingled with the
young crowd in Pyongyang’s
Kim Il Sung Square for our first
New Year. Koryo Tours had
been granted exclusive access
to the Paddy Power Invitational
basketball event and planned to
assemble two groups to come
along. Initially, there was resistance to the attendance of tourists but finally it was agreed that
a small number would be allowed in, mostly DPRK veterans,
Americans and basketball fanatics: a perfect combination.
We also used the exclusivity of
this event to raise funds for a
charity project in Pyongyang,
funding and operating the
country’s first school for deaf
children. It is estimated that 1-2
percent of the population are
deaf and one indisputably good
thing to have come out of this
trip was being able to generate
significant funds to help with
this project, which is simply one
of the most worthy we have
ever come across. Dennis visited
the school himself on his third
visit, and seeing the kids there
overjoyed to meet him – he is,
by now of course, immensely
famous inside the DPRK – makes
you realize what just a little help
can do for the lives of people
with disabilities in a difficult
place like North Korea.
January 6-7, 2014
The confirmation from the DPRK
National Olympic Committee
that we would be in attendance
at the game was somewhat ambiguously worded.
We were advised not to “worry
too much” about access – experience told me to worry, but
only the right amount. But what
is that? This question lingered
while we took our visitors to
some of the more interesting
sites of Pyongyang: the newly
opened Mirim Riding Club
(featuring Kim Jong Il’s favorite
horse, stuffed), the new War
Museum, a local bar, and as
much else as we could cram into
a drizzly day.
In the evening, we chatted
with some of the players
on Dennis’s delegation (see
‘Rodman’s Roster’ p.41), who
had been very brave to follow
the mercurial Rodman and take
part in this audacious piece of
‘basketball diplomacy.’ Sadly
the Koryo Hotel, while among
the best they have, has a strict
policy of closing their main
bar at 11pm, a blow to all of
us enjoying drinking with the
players. However, I managed to
persuade the waitresses to keep
the bar open longer by teaching them to juggle with bottle
caps – more effective than an
offer of money moments earlier.
So while we flicked imported
Bavaria Lager caps, the players
and tourists enjoyed a unique
evening ahead of a nerve-wracking event the next day.
It was only later we found out
that this session took place just
a few hours after the now-notorious interview with CNN’s Chris
Cuomo; fellow player Charles
Smith (see ‘Rodman’s Roster’)
had presented the players’ case
very well but a tired and emotional Dennis had somewhat
flown off the handle when
Cuomo repeatedly brought
up the case of imprisoned
American Kenneth Bae.
By shouting at Cuomo, Dennis
came across as rather undignified. Charles’s intervention
calmed things down a bit,
though, and the next day
Dennis’s publicist issued his
apology, stating he had been
under a lot of stress and drinking. Both of which I knew to be
true – still, it wasn’t an auspicious start.
January 8, 2014
The Big Day. We were told to
dress smart and had to abandon
lunch halfway through to join
the motorcade of diplomats on
their way to the newly renovated Pyongyang Indoor Stadium.
We couldn’t take in cameras
or, indeed, anything (a level of
security that surely heralded a
Kim appearance) but ran into
Dennis and his entourage in
very high spirits, on their way
to meet Kim. Dennis was clad in
a natty-gray North Korean-style
suit and swigging from a glass
of something brown – possibly
Coke mixed with Bad Ass Vodka,
Rodman’s own premium brand,
bottles of which (curiously,
39
cover story
engraved with the likenesses of
both him and Kim) were presented to the Marshall.
it was his idea (probably true).
This little session was the highlight of my trip, as it probably
was for some of those tourists
who bantered along with him.
Sure, he called me a “little sh*t”
a few days later but I took it as a
friendly gesture.
Along with around 12,000
Koreans, mostly students, we
took our seats. As both teams
warmed up, big screens above
the court showed a Korean-style
history of basketball – apparently, it began in Ancient Greece.
Then the Marshall emerged
about 30 meters to my right
with wife Ri Sol Ju, a former
singer and current style icon
(sound familiar?)
The crowd leapt to their feet
and for several minutes, cries
of ‘Manse!’ (‘Long life!’) echoed
loudly around the arena. Kim acknowledged all sections – even
us – then motioned for everyone to sit down. It didn’t do the
job: the cries and cheers kept
coming. I’ve seen this kind of
thing many times on television,
and experienced it personally
with Kim Jong Il in 2005, but it
is actually a chilling spectacle
to be in the middle of a sea of
enraptured people, all calling
out the same word over and
over. Strangest of all was seeing
our Korean guides, who I have
known for many years, doing
the same; not that I would have
expected otherwise, but seeing
that took things from the abstract to the visceral. Frankly, it
gave me goosebumps.
What came next was arguably
even odder. Dennis took to the
mic for what was expected to be
a warm tribute to the thousands
who had gathered there, and
the millions who would watch
later on TV (live footage of the
Marshall is never broadcast in
North Korea), and/or a bland
statement about non-political
sporting engagement.
He decided to go in another
direction, though, first thanking the American players, then
encouraging a sing-along to
‘Happy Birthday’ to Kim (the
slow, husky Rodman mix).
Although January 8 is known
as the leader’s birthday, it is
not celebrated as a national
holiday. Uptake was slow to say
the least, although the song is
widely known even in North
Korea – clearly unplanned, it left
everyone feeling bemused, as if
they couldn’t quite credit what
had just happened.
Dennis was clearly emotional
about the whole thing, wiping away tears afterwards, but
I think for many it struck the
40
Simon Cockerell and Dennis Rodman
wrong note for what the event
was about: bringing Americans
and Koreans together to play
some ball, away from politics.
This was proven in the game itself (despite all the cheers being
organized by men in caps, with
no group spontaneity at all).
The first half was American on
Korean and, honestly, the home
‘Torch’ team walked it (despite
Smith’s boast the night before
that there were no winners or
losers in basketball diplomacy
– but the Americans would
definitely win!) Teamwork and
deadly accurate three-point
shots made up for any height
deficit and lack of flamboyance
in the Koreans’ play.
After the teams mixed sides,
though, sh*t got real. It was
simply a league above the first
half: streetballers showboating,
showing off with alley-oops
and slam dunks with even the
Korean players getting into the
spirit (which they normally shy
away from). My gaze, though,
was often drawn away from this
spectacle to watch Kim Jong Un
and Rodman as they sat, smoking (Kim chaining cigs, Rodman
on the cigar, the only people in
the arena doing so), seemingly
having a wild time of it. I did appear on the Jumbotron at one
point and went to blow a kiss to
the crowd – but the camera cut
off and I ended up looking as if
I had put a hand to my mouth
in affected shock, like some starstuck fanboy. Dammit!
After the Marshall left – I forget
the final score (the White team
won) – we tripped out into the
dark evening with the locals
for a frantic discussion back at
the hotel about what we had
seen and what we thought the
international reaction would be.
Dennis stopped by for a chat
then headed to his rooms on
the secret floor of the hotel (I
went once: very nice indeed but
almost impossible to find, due
to cunning architecture). The
Associated Press were uploading their feed and seemed to be
using the entire nation’s bandwidth so I had to wait around a
bit to do a Skype interview with
Sky News, but the merriment
continued.
Shortly afterwards I heard a
voice shouting my name: it
was Rodman in the lobby, sipping soju (see ‘North Korean
Nightlife’, p46) with the crew
and an Irish writer sent in to
document the whole thing. He
was on top form; approachable,
holding court, flirting with any
women and making wild statements about himself and the
future of basketball diplomacy.
Dennis was proud of himself
and keen to take credit. I asked
whose idea it had been to mix
up the teams and he looked at
me like I was an idiot. Of course
January 9, 2014
And just like that, when we
woke the next morning the big
man was gone – off to an as-yet
undisclosed series of locations.
Rumours abounded that they
had helicoptered to the East
Coast or to the Masik Ski Resort
or to Kim Jong Un’s actual
house. (I know the truth but
am sworn to secrecy for now.)
The remaining players spent
the morning at the new Munsu
Water Park in Pyongyang, mixing with local kids (shame the
media weren’t there to cover
this) and that afternoon I spent
several hours (and just under
200 dollars) letting them ‘hotspot’ off my phone to check
email, read news, and Skype
their families. I got on especially
well with street-baller Andre
‘Silk’ Poole, not only a wonderful player and storyteller (his
40-minute live-action explanation of Shaolin vs. Wu-Tang to an
audience of just me shall not be
easily forgotten), but also played
the streetball ringer from season one of The Wire.
These players will be criticized
but they showed millions that
Americans and North Koreans
could play together and even
be better for it. Dennis provided
both the engine and, unfortunately, the bumps on the road
that threatened to constantlyderail the whole thing. There
are aspects to be deeply critical
of, as well as elements to be
praised about the whole venture
but even as someone on the
periphery – personal shopper
turned bar confidante – I will
dine out on the story for years.
As for Dennis, he’s a force of
nature, a charming man who
can cause unbearable stress
to those around him, but also
great pleasure and loyalty. That’s
just what he’s like: a bag of
contradictions but someone I’d
gladly spend time with again in
the future. And if any other NBA
players need a personal shopper in Beijing, well – they know
where to find me.
// Simon Cockerell is General Manager of Koryo
Tours in Beijing. Dennis Rodman is now in rehab.
No money was exchanged for this article.
ALL STAR
ALL STAR
KENNY ANDERSON
THESPIAN
ALL STAR
VIN BAKER
FORMER ALCOHOLIC
ALL STAR
DOUG CHRISTIE
PORN PRODUCER
Eric Floyd
BEDDING SALESMAN
Kenny Anderson
Age: 43
Vin Baker
Age: 42
Doug Christie
Age: 43
Eric “Sleepy” Floyd
Age: 53
Played for: Nets, Hornets, Trail
Blazers, Celtics, Supersonics,
Hawks, Clippers
Status: Having burnt through his
earnings, Anderson – who retitred in 2006 – took up a school
coaching job in Florida, only to
be fired last year after picking
up a DUI. His most recent public
appearance was in a play entitled The Penis Monologues.
Played for: Bucks, Supersonics,
Celtics, Knicks, Rockets, Clippers
Status: A four-time consecutive
NBA All Star and Olympic gold
medal-winner before alcohol
addiction cut his career prematurely short. Today he’s sober
and working as a pastor at a
church in Harlem, New York City.
Played for: Lakers, Knicks,
Raptors, Kings, Magic,
Mavericks, Clippers
Status: Best known for instigating a massive on-court brawl
with the LA Laker’s Rick Fox in
2002, Christie and his wife Jackie
can today be seen on their
own cable-television series, The
Christies Committed. Last year,
the couple began producing
their own line of porn films.
Played for: Nets, Warriors,
Rockets, Spurs
Status: Despite being the
Warriors’ centerpiece in the
early-to-mid 1980s, and holding the NBA playoff record for
points scored in both a quarter
(29) and half (39), Floyd was
only once selected as an NBA
All Star. Since 2013 he has been
employed as a “brand ambassador” for a California bedding
company.
ALL STAR
ALL STAR
ALL STAR
CRAIG HODGES
POLITICAL ACTIVIST
CLIFF ROBINSON
WEED SMOKER
CHARLES SMITH
ALL STAR
DENNIS RODMAN
ALMOST-RAN
CROSS DRESSER
Craig Hodges
Age: 53
Cliff Robinson
Age: 47
Charles Smith
Age: 48
Dennis Rodman
Age: 52
Played for: Clippers, Bucks,
Suns, Bulls
Status: A true renegade and
man of principal – Hodges is a
genuine political activist. A onetime friend of Louis Farrakhan,
Hodges was in the Chicago Bulls
legendary Jordan-era team,
where he won two titles. He
is now coach of Canadian side
Halifax Rainmen.
Played for: Trail Blazers,
Warriors, Suns, Pistons, Nets
Status: Robinson played 18 seasons, raking up close to 1,400
games. He put up over 19,000
points, more than names such
as Magic Johnson. Robinson’s
only foray into the news was
when he was arrested for possession of marijuana in 2001.
Played for: Clippers, Knicks,
Spurs
Status: Smith never quite managed to get over the loss of
being blocked four straight
times directly under the basket
as he attempted to give New
York the lead in Game 5 of the
1993 Eastern Conference Finals
against Jordan’s Chicago Bulls.
His team lost and he retired
from the game not long after.
Played for: Pistons, Spurs, Bulls,
Lakers, and Mavericks
Status: The cigar-smoking
leader of the gang’s off-thecourt exploits have somewhat
overshadowed his playing career. The cross-dressing former
Bulls power forward, claiming
to be one of 47 children, has
been in and out of (and back
in last month) rehab and dated
Carmen Electra and Madonna.
41
cover story
IT S grim
up North
Beautiful propaganda and countryside
belie the truth of this secretive state
BY NED KELLY
42
“
Do you have today’s
paper?” I ask the
receptionist at the
Koryo Hotel. “No,”
she replies. “But we’ve got
tomorrow’s.” Welcome to
the Democratic People’s
Republic of Korea, the most
secretive state on Earth,
where tomorrow’s news has
been agreed in advance.
During my time in Asia, I
have twice visited the country known as the Hermit
Kingdom – in itself an act
that some argue helps “prop
up the regime, thereby prolonging the suffering of the
North Korean people” (in
the words of Melanie
Kirkpatrick, a senior fellow
at the Hudson Institute in
Washington).
On my first visit, no sooner
had I emerged on the other
side of passport control at
Pyongyang airport than my
mobile phone was confiscated for the duration of
my trip. Nowadays, though,
these rules have been relaxed. You can bring pretty
much anything – laptop,
digital camera, smart phone
– safe in the knowledge that
it will not be taken. Still,
it pays to be prudent: GPS
trackers and copies of books
deemed critical of the DPRK,
for example, are probably a
provocation too far.
The highlight (and main
reason) of the trip for most
people is the famous Arirang
Festival Mass Games. We
were whisked straight there
by bus to the Rungrado
May Day Stadium, which,
with 150,000 seats, is the
largest-capacity stadium in
the world. Before us, 20,000
schoolchildren turn themselves into human pixels,
clacking big books of different colored cards with faultless coordination to create
a series of vast mosaics that
tell the story of the nation
and its struggles – with
Japanese occupation, with
war with America, with reunification. In front of them,
on the Astroturf field, another 60,000 perform perfectly
synchronized gymnastics.
The display is an ideal showpiece for the socialist ideals
of the country – individuals giving themselves over
to the collective to create
something greater than the
sum of its parts, the participants themselves embodying
youth, strength, militarism
(the ‘Juche’ philosophy)
and unity. Each of them has
undergone a grueling eightmonth training process to
ensure there will not be the
slightest fault. But put politi-
cal convictions to one side
and check your conscience
at the door and it is impossible not to enjoy – it is quite
simply incredible, one of the
most breathtakingly beautiful human spectacles on
Earth, ever.
Once it is over we head
back to the hotel, which
stands on an island in the
Taedong River. This, and
the fact you are not allowed to leave its confines
without your North Korean
guide, has led wags to
dub it ‘Alacatraz’ – indeed,
this is how it is referred to
among Pyongyang’s entire
foreign community. But it’s
not so bad: the basement
contains several bars, a KTV,
a bowling alley and even a
casino (North Koreans are
not allowed in and it is run
by Chinese from Macao).
We are only there for one
43
cover story
DPRK propaganda posters typically
extol the virtues of the worker
Due to a lack of industrialization, one aspect the posters
depict with some accuracy is the stunning rural landscape
night though, as members
of the Workers’ Party were
descending on the city for
some vital meeting concerning Kim Jong Un, and we
were moved across town to
make way for them.
Traveling across town is in
itself something of a novelty.
Our journey takes in several
sites, including the Arch of
Triumph, a self-consciously
over-sized replica of its
French namesake that celebrates resistance to 40 years
of Japanese colonial rule
(60 meters high, 50 meters
wide and decorated with 70
azaleas depicting the supposed “triumphant return
of the Great Leader,” it cost
a fortune to build in such
a poor country). Grandiose
architecture is something
you quickly become acquainted with. More bombs
were dropped on the DPRK
during the Korean War than
on Japan and Germany combined during World War II,
with 428,000 on Pyongyang
alone – more than one per
member of the population –
reducing the city to rubble.
After the armistice the city
was redesigned in the Soviet
Classicism-style; wide avenues, imposing monuments,
and monolithic buildings.
Jong Un is the son of former
leader Kim Jong Il (the ‘Dear
Leader’), and grandson of
Supreme Leader Kim Il Sung,
who led the war of resistance against the Japanese,
and is the vanquisher of the
mighty “American bastards”
(as they are officially referred to in propaganda) and
father of the nation. Cult of
personality is the order of
the day here – it is impossible to overemphasize the
Kims’ omnipresence in every
aspect of North Korean life.
Their images are everywhere
you turn, from giant roadside billboards, portraits on
and in every public building,
and on the tiny pin-badges
that everybody in the country must wear – though no
actual law exists to say that.
Il Sung is effectively a god,
towering from the center
of Pyongyang in 20-meter
high bronze statue form,
and lying in formaldehydepreserved state in a giant
mausoleum on the city’s outskirts. Despite being dead
for 16 years, North Korea’s
44
EXPERT PICKS
‘Eternal President’ is still officially head of state. Suffice
to say, you will see many
sites of veneration to Kim Il
Sung, where you must bow
solemnly if you know what’s
good for you (although the
DMZ and Pyongyang Metro
are relatively Kim-free). It is
a fascinating, if frightening,
insight into how this regime
holds on to power and what
makes this nation tick.
ing to be from the Guinness
Book of World Records. What
record have these table and
chairs broken, one wonders?
“It is the most famous set
of furniture in the world,”
we are told. The museum
is a fascinating insight into
the mind of a nation, yet,
the overdose of obsession
– especially in regard to the
Dear Leader, can at times begin to grate.
One essential visit is the
International Friendship
Exhibition, a 50,000-sqm,
150-room marble-adorned
museum displaying gifts
given to the Kims – over
230,000 from 183 countries,
including the US and UK, all
dug into the side of a mountain (to withstand a nuclear
attack, I understand.)
The following day and it’s
on to the Children’s Palace.
Moving through the entrance hall we are taken
past a procession of rooms
in which groups – always
groups – perform their given
art. In the first, a dozen girls
give an incredible accordion
performance, while the second contains children practicing calligraphy.
I certainly will sleep easier
knowing a certain item in
there won’t be liquefied by
nukes: a stuffed crocodilewaiter from Nicaragua that
stands erect holding a silver
tray of drinks; every apartment should have one.
But for the most part, it
is cabinet after cabinet of
often-bizarre offerings: a
mishmash of tat – ashtrays
from Argentina, a terriblelooking TV set from Bulgaria
– and wastefulness (several
entire plasma-screen home
cinema sets, forever unused
and on display). Mao Zedong
did give him an impressive
armored railway carriage,
mind you.
All of this is intended to convince the masses that rightthinking people around the
world are in awe of their
beloved Kim Il Sung. It gets
a little much. Atop a dining
set sits a certificate claim-
In the third, four pianists
are overseen by a strict instructor, clearly anxious that
nothing should go wrong.
It doesn’t – their timing is
immaculate. Room after
room the same, all billed as
a place of “comprehensive
extracurricular education
for schoolchildren.” But
it’s the middle of the day –
shouldn’t they be at school?
My suspicion that it is all for
our benefit is given weight
by a sneaky peek into the
calligraphy room later – the
kids have all put down their
brushes, charade over.
The tour culminates with a
show at the in-house theater. This is an unashamed,
over-the-top propaganda
piece. For over an hour we
are ‘entertained’ by an allsinging, all-dancing cast
of hundreds of five and six
year- olds who performance
involves maintaining permanent synchronized smiles.
The cutesy-creepiness cranks
up once our translator tells
us what they are singing
about: a five-year- old boy
cheerily extols his pride
about launching missiles,
followed by a snappy number in which a girl, six , congratulates the On Sen City
power station for running at
160 percent output.
There is something about
an official tour – piling on
and off the bus together, the
constant commentary – that
makes a visit to the DPRK
feel a little like a school trip.
Preposterous statements
– such as a North Korean
guide at a flower display,
who gravely mangled an
Onion hoax about Kim Jong
Un’s award of Sexiest Man
Alive into a story about
Kim being “voted the Best
President in the World by
Americans” – often leave
visitors sniggering like
schoolkids. But this can also
feel smug and mean (what
choice do the guides have?),
and the long-suffering foreign guide sheepishly herds
us on to the next display.
Which leads to the question: do they actually believe
in it all? If they don’t, they
certainly aren’t letting on.
I asked my guide if he had
ever seen Kim Jong Il in the
flesh; turns out he had driven passed in a car once. “So
what did it feel like?” He is
momentarily lost for words,
shaking his head: “I cannot
explain to you, a foreigner,
the feeling I had inside as a
Korean. It is too powerful.”
A visit to North Korea may
leave the same impression.
Geoffrey K. See
Managing Director, Choson
Exchange
“The Pyolmuri cafe. Hidden
on a back street near the
railway station, the cafe offers tasty foreign fare in a
small and cosy setting, in
a city where edible foreign
fare is still a rarity. Try the
locally made goat’s cheese,
or even better, the goat’s
cheese fondue.”
Anja Daelemans
Co-Director, Co-Producer,
Comrade Kim Goes Flying
“The Pyongyang Film
Studio. The whole studio
complex is fairly bizarre. It’s
similar to Bollywood studios
and even some Hollywood
studios in that everything is
fake. There is an entire ancient Korean town, a Chinese
street, a South Korean street,
a Japanese street, even a
European street.”
Vicky Mohieddeen
Video Producer and Koryo
Cinema Programmer, Koryo
Tours
“The Pyongyang International Cinema House. The
only time foreigners are
permitted to enter cinemas
to watch films is during the
Pyongyang International
Film Festival (the next edition of the festival is this
September).The screens
themselves are charmingly
old fashioned with wooden
benches and auditoriums
that are plunged into complete darkness when the film
begins – quite unlike the
health and safety obsessed
shiny multiplexes we see all
over the rest of Asia now.”
45
cover story
North
Korean
Nightlife
Who says pyongyang is a one party town?
BY RFH
I
n October 2012, Kim Chol,
former vice-minister of
the North Korean army,
was supposedly made to
stand on a spot that had
been zeroed-in for a mortar
round. He was then obliterated,
according to an alleged order
from leader Kim Jong Un, leaving “no trace of [Kim Chol] behind, down to his hair.”
The minister’s heinous crime?
Supposedly, to be caught
“drinking and carousing” during the mourning period for
the late Kim Jong Il. Visitors
to North Korea need not fear
enjoying a drink or three,
however. The least-credible
part of this South Korean account is not the mortar round
– a standard megalomaniacal
tactic, surely – but the expecta-
46
tion that somehow the DPRK
magically stayed sober for a full
100 days after the Dear Leader’s
demise.
Pretty much anyone with
knowledge of Korea will tell
you that drinking is a big part
of life above and below the
38th Parallel, especially since
the Japanese introduced beer
culture – along with the bitter
legacy of occupation – in the
1910s. In North Korea, where
winters are long and bleak, and
there’s very little else to do in
the way of entertainment all
year round, that love of liquor
probably counts doubly so.
The national spirit is soju, a
near-tasteless (yet potent)
brew, often mixed in the South
with 7-Up or Cherry Coke but
in the North, obviously, usually
enjoyed neat or watered down.
Tourists can try some of the
region’s other brews, including
many a ginseng-infused wine
– a major export – or drinks
claiming to contain pickled
medicinal ‘tiger bone’ or penis
(the DPRK’s last wild tiger was
exterminated – and presumably
distilled – decades ago).
Most tourists, though, are likely
to be primarily drinking beer.
North Korea has an unusual
advantage in this area, in that
the high price and scarcity of
fuel, and lack of infrastructure,
has encouraged hundreds of
towns to establish their own
microbreweries. Most of these
are amateur operations but
the brewers have plenty of
time and pride on their hands,
and there are plenty of DPRK
beers that knock Tsingtao into a
cocked glass.
The Taedonggang, named
after Pyongyang’s river, is
one of the city’s most notable
nightlife stop-offs, producing
around seven types of beer
(Beer Number 1, Beer Number
2, etc) using equipment from
the well regarded, sadly now
defunct British brewery Usher’s
of Trowbridge. Despite their
declared strengths of 7 and 5
percent, the only effect I felt
after finishing two in quick
succession was an unfortunate
need to visit a bathroom –
while stuck on the Pyongyang
Metro.
Pubs usually don’t have music –
instead, the camaraderie comes
from toasting and singing.
The act of imbibing is usually more measured too, says
Richie Fenner, 23-year-old tour
guide for the Young Pioneers, a
British-run, Xi’an-based budgettravel company, who gear
themselves towards a younger
crowd (their slogan: “Taking
you to the places your mother
would rather you stayed away
from”).
Celebrations among Koreans
include extended, formalized
Kim-cheersing, meaning people “drink at the same pace as
everyone else,” Fenner says. It’s
similar to China, though with
one big difference: “People
aren’t passing out left, right
and center. Most know their
limits and you don’t see bathrooms full of vomit, because,
well, people know their limits
more.” That said, alcoholism is
widespread along with meth
use, throughout the country.
Booze is cheap – at least, for
North Koreans; governmentsubsidized beer and soju is
readily available to “keep people happy and avoid sober confrontation with an angry populace,” as one expert put it. But
don’t expect much in the way
of nightlife. The Diplomatic
Club by the Juche Tower is the
sole entry in the Lonely Planet’s
nightlife section on the DPRK,
a “newly refurbished complex
full of bars, karaoke rooms and
restaurants”. It sounds better
on paper.
Sadly, that describes much of
the entertainment options,
both in Pyongyang and beyond: hotels like the Koryo
or the Yanggakdo may offer
things like a nightclub, bar,
even a bowling alley or casino
(complete with blackjack and
baccarat!) but the reality is that
these places are usually deserted and/or closed. That doesn’t
deter people from getting
their drink on, though, usually in one of the Pyongyang
hotels.
Almost every tour group has a
hangover-in-residence (often
several) and stories of drunken
arguments, missed flights and
other regrettable incidents are
not uncommon. And although
The Hangover-type experiences are the stuff of legend,
benders are benders, even
in Pyongyang. “During the
1995 ‘International Peace and
Friendship Festival,’ attended
by Mohammed Ali, this Dutch
guy wandered out of the
Koryo Hotel around 1am and
fell asleep by the river opposite the Juche Tower,” Koryo’s
Nick Bonner remembers. “He
woke up about 3am, without
a clue where he was – country,
let alone place. [Eventually],
he was taken back to the hotel
by a polite local.” And perhaps
only in North Korea could a
man allegedly defect while
drunk.
Win! We've got two Koryo
T-shirts. an excluisve set of
DVDs and a book about
North Korean art to give
away. Email ‘Koryo’ to [email protected].
47
the grapevine
Nibbles
Six of the best: Valentine’s Day dinner
eat / drink
As Stephen King wrote,
sometimes they come back.
And sometimes they don’t,
which seems to be the case
for former Pinotage Executive
Chef Amber Deetlefs, who
decided not to return from
South Africa. The restaurant is
holding firm with a revamped
menu of fusions, including
an awesome Chinese-style
dumpling with bobotie (pictured, above). Lekker!
Raffles
Isola
Flamme
// 33 East Chang An Avenue, Dongcheng
District 东城区长安东大街33号 (5257
3791)
// N3-37,3/F Building 3, Taikoo Li North, 11
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯路11号院太古里北区三层N3-37和四
层N3-47商铺 (6416 3499)
// 269, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Road,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐
堤港商场269号 ( 8420 0270)
Other big changes include the
new Kerry Mall (with its own
Wagas, Hatsune and Element
Fresh), Ssam (the Korean
restaurant is now focused
on street food, and called
One Pot) and sports bar Cuju
(planning to soon go fullrestaurant). The old Hard Rock
is now Ammo and a refurbed
Indian Kitchen is back in the
same location (see p.70).
Mosto
Brasserie Flo
29 Grill
// 3/F, Nali Huayuan, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号
那里花园3层 (5208 6030)
// 18 Xiaoyun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区霄云路18号 (6595 5135)
// 29 Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区东三环北路29号 (6584 6000)
Those that didn’t survive the
harsh winter include Nali
Patio’s Velvet, Dongzhimen
bike bar Serk – moving with
the rent – Ritan’s 20-year-old
American Steak and Eggs
and wine bar Scarlett, which
closed with Hotel G.
Another new additions in
Xingfucun is cocktail speakeasy Parlor, while The Place
will host Taiwanese bar-restaurant-club Peekaboo. Good
luck with that.
Elsewhere we’ve heard – but
not seen – of a hutong ‘space’
called Mulu that only accepts
reservations and a cheap
French bistro Le Grenadier, in
Dianmen. Finally, a question:
seeing as the British were
given it without asking, will
the new zodiac year finally
see quality horsemeat make it
to Beijing menus? Or have we
been already eating it unawares, along with fox, mink
and house cat? RFH
48
Jaan is using molecular gastronomy and aphrodisiac ingredients,
like oysters and chili chocolate, for their dinner of luurve
(RMB788 + 15% service).
Treat the person you care about
the ‘mosto’ with this four-course
dinner (RMB480 pp), including
chocolate soufflé with a molten
white chocolate center.
Homemade Bauletti pasta with
Boston lobster is on the menu at
Isola (RMB700 per couple, + 10%
service).
The gourmands at Flo are recreating the perfect Parisian dining
experience with their 5 course
degustation dinner (RMB1,599
per couple, includes a glass of
Moët & Chandon).
The star of Flamme’s five-course
set menu (RMB688 per couple) is the seafood platter with
Japanese scallops and New
Zealand mussels.
Enjoy a candlelit five-course
dinner with champagne and
oysters at the Conrad’s top eatery (RMB1,314 per couple, or
RMB1,917 +15% service including a room for the night.)
Head to head
The Local vs Revolution
The challenge: hot rum
Challenger: Hot Buttered Rum
Digs: Courtyard No 9’s popular watering hole
Deal: Made to the manager’s own recipe, this is the
go-to drink for the wintering pirate. It’s RMB50, but
come Wednesdays, all cocktails are RMB100 for three.
Tasting notes: Presented in a mug with cinnamon
swizzle-stick, this spicy confection tastes like Christmas
in a cup, with a glaze of butter on top
Winter warmth? Could be dispensed by a wheezing St
Bernard on a freezing Alpine slope
Challenger: Hot Chocolate Rum
Digs: Yashow Market’s closest thing to hipster heaven
Deal: Just RMB45 will land you this steaming cup of
creamy cocoa – with a kick. Sadly, this bar does not have a
Happy Hour
Tasting notes: This is the hot chocolate you wish your
mother made (had you been a somewhat boozy child with
a slightly sweet tooth): rich, creamy, warm goodness.
Winter warmth? Nine out of ten polar bears would drink
this instead of glacial melt any day of the week
Verdict: We’d never turn down any of The Local’s cocktail creations, but Revolution’s rum cup raises the
(chocolate) bar. And the ladies love it.
Edited by will philipps
[email protected]
Red and circus
tuber trade
Qingfeng Baozi
Truffling for gold
The Atlantic recently published an indepth report into the murky world of illegal
truffle-trading – surprise, surprise, much of it is cultivated in China.
The highly prized tubers, known for their scarcity and flavour, attract
prices similar to high-end art: white truffles typically retail for between
USD3,000-7,000.
Hands up if you’d ever heard
of the Qingfeng Baozi chain
before December of last year?
Probably not many of you – but
ever since Xi Jinping got peckish
one December morning while in
traffic on the Second Ring, the
fortunes of this humble baozi
franchise have changed dramatically.
The Fuxingmen-Xicheng branch
of Qingfeng Baozi is where the
president – or Uncle Xi, as he
was referred to at the time –
dropped in on December 29 to
showcase his man-of-the-people
credentials by joining the queue
to buy a set meal of six porkand-onion steamed buns, a
bowl of stir-fried pork liver and a
plate of greens. There was widespread amazement over the
fact that he not only paid from
his own pocket, but even carried the tray to his table, and all
without crashing into the gaggle
of stunned onlookers surrounding him. Amazing!
from far and wide (it has since
become a magnet for petitioners). China Daily reported a 40
percent sales-spike for the chain.
On our visit, a couple from
Shenyang were having their
photo taken on the seat Xi was
supposed to have used. “I hope
it will bring me luck,” the husband told us. “According to our
beliefs, people who become the
top man in this big country must
have some mysterious powers.”
There’s certainly a market for them – one Chinese bidder paid
USD120,000 for two pounds – three times the price of gold. Truffles
do grow in certain parts of southern China, like Yunnan, but since
their quality is inferior to Europe's, they command a significantly lower
price. As a result, the second-rate fungi have given rise to counterfeiting operations, with Chinese truffles being passed off for the superior
European variety. Interpol have been called in to police the illegal trade,
but the Chinese authorities apparently have no interesting in cooperating. Given the rarefied nature of truffles, fakes are hard to control, and
with no serious health risks arising, perpetrators often get off with “little more than a slap on the wrist.”
Over the last 10 years, China has become the largest exporter of white
truffles to the USA and now is estimated to export about 30 to 40 tons
to Europe each year. Measures are extreme in Europe to protect their
prized crop: to prevent hauls raided and hunter dogs poisoned “requires paramilitary patrols near truffle farms.” WP
The man said he had searched
online to find the right seat,
although we didn’t have the
heart to tell him that, after the
president left, the restaurant
immediately took away the actual chair he sat on, perhaps to
exhibit at HQ or sell at auction.
The proud couple, meanwhile,
left the shop with 40 baozi.
We visited the baozi shop ourselves a few days later, where
the queues were still long for
the newly devised “Presidential
Set Meal” (still RMB21). It was
over an hour’s wait before we
finally picked up our tray – and
this was at the off-peak hour of
4pm. Hordes of photographers
and tourists were buzzing
around outside, while inside
the overworked fuwuyuan were
probably cursing their luck at
having to deal with the wave
after wave of customers.
Lin Wen, a lawyer, saw it as a
version of “modern red tourism,” where tourists follow in
the footsteps of former leaders,
such as retracing route of the
Long March. One holidaymaker,
who took the 300km trip from
Hebei, believes that, aside from
just curiosity, people are drawn
to show support for what Xi is
doing. “It symbolizes the crackdown on corruption,” she told
us. “Laobaixing [common people] need to voice their support
of this. We hope that such policies will continue. A crackdown
on extravagance and waste is
something that the government
should always be focusing on.”
KK
The place had essentially turned
into a fast-food shrine, with
people making the pilgrimage
// Daily 6:30am-9pm, 7 Building, Nanlishi
Lu, Xicheng District 西城区南礼士路7号楼
(6803 2363)
49
eat / drink
T
whisky special
oo much of anything is
bad, but too much good
whiskey is barely enough
– Mark Twain
It’s hours before any customers are expected, but the eight
bartenders and servers – six
men, two women – are already
gathered in uniform at an upscale Beijing bar for “whiskey
training.”
“We’re going to introduce you
to American whiskey, its production, taste, and, if we have
time, some cocktails,” explains
American ‘whiskey ambassador’
Adam Devermann of Distilled
Spirits Council of the US
(Discus), who travels the
country offering tutorials to local barkeeps.
“Hao ma? Fantastic.”
The servers sit raptly as
Devermann reveals a finer point
on Appalachian culture: “Go to
Tennessee and ask for a Jack
Daniel’s bourbon, and they’ll
beat you. Seriously.” Listeners
scribble furiously.
There was a time, seemingly
long ago, when whisky was
hard to find on the mainland.
There were the big-name single
malts – Macallan, Glenfiddich,
Glenlivet – in first-tier bars,
and mainstay blends, but
a Campbeltown Scotch like
Springbank 10? A sumptuous
rye like Templeton? A Johnnie
Walker label higher than Black?
A fancy hotel or a Japanese bar
like Ichikura might have it, but
most people would have had
better luck brewing moonshine.
These days, upscale liquor
stores all seem to carry a halfdozen Islays and bourbons.
Distributors are selling to lounges and private consumers alike.
And whisky watering-holes that
have emerged this past season
in Beijing alone include Whisky
Bridge, D&M Bar, Glen Classic, X
QC and Ai Whisky.
“Whiskies,” says Jeff Ji, peatedwhisky lover and owner of Mai
Bar, “are a lot like beautiful
girls. Every bottle is different,
the flavor changes every year
as it ages, and it changes with
the wood and environment.” Ji
just opened a second bar near
Sanlitun, Parlor, to meet the spiraling demand.
As in other parts of the world,
China is in the midst of a whisky
renaissance. According to
Euromonitor International, the
retail sale of American whiskeys
in China has more than doubled
from 2007 to 2012, to USD264
million, and is expected to jump
another USD100 million in the
next five years.
Pop culture – whether Sixties
cool in Mad Men or Prohibitionera wise guys in Boardwalk
Empire – is spurring growth in
the US, but in China, there may
not be any particular driving
force. It’s simply whisky’s time.
“I honestly don’t think it’s a
fad,” says Patrick Lin of The
Lexington Brewing and Distilling
Company, a Kentucky distillery
whose products here include
Pearse Lyon Reserve and Town
Branch. “I think it says something when Town Branch is only
available in less than two dozen
states in America and only one
other country: Ireland – because
that’s the home country of our
owner. And China.”
whisky business
Why scotch is back on the rise in China
BY Anthony Tao
Lin, who gives monthly trainings, says he’s impressed with
both what Chinese tasters
can identify – pineapple, for
instance – and their eagerness
to learn. “Whenever we do tastings,” he says, “you can always
see foreigners and Chinese.
The foreigners will be there just
downing the drinks and not
paying attention, while a lot
of the Chinese I see are taking
notes on what we’re saying and
really concentrating on the flavors and the product itself.”
Put more plainly: “Nothing
is holding it back,” says Badr
Benjelloun, owner of two bars
in Beijing. “It’s the fastest-growing spirit.”
Jerry Chao, manager of whisky
bar Ala House, believes that
local knowledge – starting from Japanese single
malts – has largely
spread through word
of mouth. “A lot of
bartenders have
gone abroad and
brought whiskies
back, and they
50
introduce them to customers,
who introduce them to their
friends.”
among expats, and this is leading certain bars to ask for more
than Macallan and Glenfiddich.
Unfortunately, as with wine,
taste still lags behind the eagerness to buy. This is especially
true in lower-tier cities. Ethan
Liu, bar manager at the upmarket d-Lounge in Beijing, estimates 90 percent of bar-goers
at the Ritz-Carlton in Chengdu,
where he occasionally bartends,
have no idea what they’re ordering. “For them, the most expensive is best; older is better.”
There’s still much more room
for growth – and education. It’s
why Discus’s Devermann has a
job: he evangelizes American
whiskeys. They’re more often
employed in cocktails, which
happen to be more popular
with women, who represent
another sharply growing demographic. Liu estimates that,
within the next three years, “the
complete whisky market will
blossom. I mean, people will
understand bourbons, single
malts, blends – not just a single
category of whisky.”
Dillon King, who specializes in
southwest China, agrees. “Most
locals [in Chengdu] remain clueless,” the 26-year-old distributor
says, adding, “they don’t trust
any whisky that hasn’t been
hand-carried from duty free as
being real.” In the giant municipality of Chongqing, “locals are
less educated than in Chengdu.”
The next whisky bar that opens
in either metropolis will be the
first, says King.
But Kunming is undergoing
a “whisky explosion,” at least
At its most basic, whisky is alcohol distilled from grain at a
relatively lower proof. Unless
it’s moonshine, it’s then barrelaged. If it comes from Scotland,
it’s a Scotch (Chivas, Johnnie
Walker); if it’s a product of only
one distillery, it’s a single malt
(such as Laphroaig or Hibiki);
in Ireland it’s spelled whiskey
(Jameson, Bushmills); ditto for
America, where, if it’s from
Kentucky, it’s probably a bourbon, and if it’s from Tennessee,
it’s likely Jack Daniel’s (technically a ‘sour mash’).
It seems simple enough, but
beyond the shared DNA, there’s
an abundance of variety, deriving from the type of grain that’s
used – barley, corn, rye – to the
type of barrel it’s aged in – oak,
sherry, port – to where it sits
and for how long. It all matters
because of the basic interaction
between living organisms, molecules and the environment.
It’s why the Bruichladdich 10,
an ‘unpeated’ whisky from
the Isle of Islay off the coast of
southwest Scotland, retains a
ribbon of smoke – it’s just what
happens when your product is
assaulted with brine and sea
mist for a decade. This is part
of whisky’s appeal: one could
drink it for a lifetime and still be
surprised by deviant strains.
Qianmen 23’s Johnnie Walker
House (or JWH) – erected in 2012
and among the few establishments not leasing a renovated
former legation — stands as
both trove and monument to
this process. Inside, a Shanghai
ad for Red Label, circa 1928,
trumpets the drink’s salutary effects as “Good for the health and
longevity.” Raw ingredients peek
from inside jars meticulously
displayed on shelves in the basement lounge. There are bottles
signed by the likes of Jude Law
and Jackie Chan. Statues of the
‘Striding Man’ are ubiquitous.
Johnnie Walker was in China as
early as 1910. It was kicked out,
along with other foreign elements, after the Communist revolution, but returned for Deng
Xiaoping’s market reforms; it
won’t be leaving anytime soon.
Last month, the sixth Master
Distiller in the company’s long
history, Jim Beveridge, was invited to JWH Beijing to unveil two
new products, the Alexander
Walker and Sir Alexander
Walker.
“The most important thing is:
we want the public to appreciate Scotland’s culture, specifically Scotland’s whisky culture
and Johnnie Walker’s culture,”
says Liu Wei, JWH’s senior
whisky ambassador. “If you’re
here and enjoy whisky, you can
experience all the warmth and
comfort that it can offer.”
JWH’s second-floor Odyssey
Lounge is where the famous
dine. They can store their own
bottles inside a personalized
locker, behind a glass door: it
borders on chi chi, but celebrity
and luxury has often produced
that result.
Although it began as a member’s club, there is a public bar
open daily that serves practically every Johnnie Walker
you could want, plus a unique
selection of cocktails (see
Review). It’s here, over a Black
Label, Platinum Label and a
King George V, that Liu tells me:
“Whisky is a process but as people try more, they’ll like it more
and more.”
We talk about the prevalence of
fakes, a topic that everyone in
the beverage industry is sensitive to – though many admit being helpless to curb, since distribution is a multi-step process.
Brands like Johnnie Walker try.
Liu demonstrates his new Black
Label cap: the genuine article,
once broken, will never align its
label again (a hugely expensive
procedure to develop that, Liu
agrees, was prompted by the
China market). He also says bars
are required to return JW’s fancier labels to keep empties off
the gray market.
“I’d rather talk about how best
to drink whisky,” Liu admits.
“You can add ice, or add water… if you add soda water, the
carbonation can bring out the
whisky’s flavor without changing it.
“Of course, there’s no prescription for how to drink whisky.
If you enjoy it, that’s all that
matters.”
Johnnie Walker House Beijing
gilded palace of scotch
BY RFH
D
escending the stairs into the depths of the opulent
Johnnie Walker House (you can take the lift), you’ll smell
the masculinity – it’s quite pleasant, actually. A blend of
sandalwood and leather, the hint of smoke.
Get used to a certain kind of
connoisseurship, as this House
atmosphere is one of hushed
gravitas. Although it opened
in December 2012 strictly as
a VIP club (a four-year stretch
costs RMB800,000), members of
the greater Beijing population
are permitted into the public bar
these days – a venue well worth
at least one visit, if only to admire
the surroundings.
Past copper-and-leather-clad walls
lined with a fascinating array of single malts past and present (many,
such as one signed by former guest
Jude Law, behind glass; a Diamond
Jubilee edition, meanwhile, is
valued at RMB1.5 million), are meticulously labeled photographs, bottles and displays documenting the
brand’s long history both in Scotland
and China – it first arrived here in
1910.
The bar, which features a decent
array of snacks (including haggis,
RMB65), can be expensive, though
not astronomical – it’s possible to
buy a decent bottle of Johnnie for
RMB430, for example. Slightly surprisingly, the main sell is the list of 30-plus
cocktails, all named after significant
years for Johnnie. The 1956, a blend
of Black Label, Coke and cherry liquer
(RMB100), is a typical example – if you
see one of those, Keep Walking.
// Tues-Sun 10am-12pm; B2, 7pm-12pm. Building F,
Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qian Men Dong Da Jie, Dongcheng
District 前门东大街23号 (6526 0609)
51
eat / drink
New restaurants
Zeit Berlin
Wunder-bar/restaurant
By Will Philipps
table-based sporting activites:
ping-pong, pool and foosball.
Yep, they’ve got all three.
Z
eit Berlin is a Chinese/
German restaurant with
a history that’s come full
circle. Run by a family who
emigrated to Germany (where
they ran a Chinese restaurant),
they’ve now returned to Beijing
to set up a brätwurst and weiner
schnitzel loving Berlin-style dining hall.
It’s location is not going to do it
any favours, tucked away down
an industrial-looking lane off
Xiaoyun Lu, but walking into the
space, you can see why they’ve
gone for it. When you think
‘German’, a candle-lit dinner
for two on the terrace does not
usually spring to mind – more
like the Hogwarts Great Hall,
with mile-long benches creaking
under the weight of a hundred
tankards of weissbeir. In Zeit
Berlin there’s enough space for
all of that and the holy trinity of
It’s quirkiness meet comfort
when it comes to seating, where
a sofa-heavy dining room is
peppered with kitsch trinkets.
We spotted some white plastic
moose heads mounted on the
wall, while a gingerbread house
the size of a Mini sits next to the
bar. You don’t ask why – you just
observe and move on. Pack this
place full of sausage-guzzling,
beery punters – perhaps with
a World Cup final on the big
screen – and you’ve got yourself
a year-round Oktoberfest.
The menu is German classics with a Berlin street-food
edge. If we were Chinese and
looking for a good introduction to the nation’s food, we’d
start here. German sausage
with sauerkraut and mashed
potato (RMB68); an XXL pork
knuckle with sauerkraut and
potato (above, RMB168 but
slow-boiled Berlin-style, rather
than roasted); currywurst
(sausage with curry sauce) and
fries (RMB78). If you don’t like
potato, get the hell out. If you
do, it’s comfort food coma-time
as helpings here are massive.
The fried banana with honey
and ice cream(RMB38) reminded
us of disposable barbecues
and family-feuding camping
holidays. Not a bad thing at all.
Can’t decide between Fanta or
Coke? Those crazy Berliners have
only gone and invented spezi,
a combo of the two (but with a
regrettable lack of tequila.)
All things considered, Zeit Berlin
is a slightly bonkers place. It’s
German, but one can feel the
Chinese influence. We admire
the eclectic style and hope
Beijing appreciates the eccentricity enough to keep it here.
// Daily 11am-10pm, inside Royam Palace
Hotel, 1F, 6 Xiaoyunli, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区霄云里6号城宝饭店内1楼 (151
1016 0573)
Mai
They did it mai way
By Stephen George
native is steeped in Japanese
culinary traditions – he also likes
sake, but we’ll get to that later.
Attention to detail is evident
throughout. From the stylish
and clean modern design to the
warm blend of wooden interiors
and spacious seating arrangements – everything exudes laid
back class. Maybe that’s why
the restaurant also provides two
exclusive private rooms for more
intimate (or rowdy) encounters.
F
or a city that purports to
loathe all things Japanese
and breaks out in sporadic
though regular bouts of angry (and occasionally violent)
anti-Japanese demonstrations,
there sure are a lot of high-end
Japanese eateries in Beijing.
Adding to this list is Mai at the
52
Westin Chaoyang. Why authentic, you ask? Because despite the
glut of similarly priced Japanese
restaurants in Beijing, few boast
a leading Japanese chef such as
Kenji Maeda. Famed throughout
Asia for his signature dishes
like cold inaniwa udon noodles
(RMB88) the 42-year-old Chiba
As you’d expect from such a restaurant, Mai offers all the usual
big hitters, including traditional
kaiseki ryori set (RMB1,188) and
melt-in-the-mouth Japanese
Wagyu beef (RMB488), both of
which are prepared in front of
your eyes on the teppanyaki
live cooking counter and served
with a set of delicious sauces.
But where it really impresses is
the expansive fresh sushi bar.
The prices aren’t cheap (a set
of seven nigiri and three kinds
of sashimi is RMB358), but the
quality is hard to argue with.
The fish is flown in daily from
Tokyo, and the freshness and
taste is apparent in every bite –
not bad for a land locked desert
city like Beijing.
Mai also offers an enormous
and exclusive selection of sake,
eight of which are being imported into China for first time.
As chef Kenji likes to explain,
you can’t possibly hope to fully
experience Japanese cuisine until you’ve become familiar with
its most beloved alcohol. We
certainly tried our best.
// Mon-Sun 5:30pm-10:30pm (lunch:
Mon-Fri 11:30am-2:30pm), 7 North
Dongsanhuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东
三环北7号 (5922 8888)
The Rug, Sanlitun
pulling it out from under them
Photos by Noemi Cassanelli
By Will Philipps
T
he Rug’s original venue
at the south side of
Chaoyang Park has won
deserved praise with its menu
of organic brunch, lunch and
salady bites. Its friendly and familiar style means we’d run two
laps round a smoggy Second
Ring to have their Benedict for
breakfast.
About time, then, that they’ve
finally unfurled a second Rug in
a more central location – and the
‘wow’ factor is high. They should
have kept the previous name
for Chaoyang and called this
one The Red Carpet. Black-andwhite tiled floors bounce light
from dangly filament bulbs over
exposed concrete walls and an
eclectic array of designer chairs
and tables.
Best of all, on a sunny day its
windows suck in an wonderful
amount of natural light. We think
The Rug will be absolutely full of
diners come summer. But it's got
its work cut out if it’s going to be
ready for them. The original set
the standard high, and on the
several visits we’ve made to the
‘The Rug has finally unfurled a second
location – and the “wow” factor is high.’
Sanlitun branch, they’ve yet to
fully acclimatise to the upgrade.
We waited a long time for our
food, which came cold and staggered over agonisingly long
intervals, along with the odd forgotten item (which seems to be
the standard in Beijing). But it’s
technically still in the soft-launch
period (translation: teethingproblems period) and already at
weekends there are queues.
The food that does come is fully
organic, and the vast menu has
all sorts of egg centric brunch
bites, salads, pastas, pizzas, curries and cakes. The owners say
they’ve traveled the world in
search of dishes, and the range
tops pretty much any other
competitor in the area. Corn fritters with honey ham (RMB138,
above) are accompanied by
large, juicy grilled vine tomatoes,
the chunky, tangy avocado dip
teeming with flavor, while the
shakshuka (RMB98), a Tunisian
fried vegetables and eggs in a
skillet is vegetarian-friendly.
Some other options still need
a bit of fine-tuning. The pesto
on the chicken pasta is probably healthier than a branded
jar you’d find in Jenny Lou’s but
wasn’t nearly as tasty. And the
Margherita pizza was laden with
so much stringy cheese that we
couldn’t discern any of the promised home-made tomato sauce.
The organic food comes at a
price, with serious fluctuation
depending on ingredients. We
wonder whether some will be
put off the prosciutto pizza at
RMB148, when the Margherita
is RMB58. But who cares about
money? Their menu espouses
“food that touches your heart”
(with one hand, maybe, while
the other silently caresses the
renminbi out of your wallet.)
The Rug might look like Western
food at a glance but it’s still
got a long way to go to stake a
claim for torch-bearer of healthy,
Western-style brunching in the
capital. Maybe choosing items
based on menu photos (the
menu is more like a portfolio)
programmed our brains into
Chinese dining mode. If that
didn’t, the Chinglish-laden slogans (how did that happen?)
and cutesy rabbit latte art certainly did. Not that a restaurant
shouldn’t be allowed to put any
animal it wants on its coffee – we
just wonder how the same people who designed such an attractive interior could be responsible
for such crimes against style.
So that’s the crux of The Rug,
Sanlitun. It looks absolutely
fantastic, but there’s still a bit of
work to be done with the menu.
The original set the bar high;
we hope it’s not long before the
Sanlitun edition follows suit.
// Daily 10:30am-10:30pm, Inside Electrical
Research Institute, 4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体北路4号机电研究院
内 (6507 2342)
53
eat / drink
New restaurants
Heng Shan Xiao Guan
Not too hot to handle
BY Will Philipps
ing chopsticks plucked them
from the depths of the pot.
It's in light of this, we suspect,
that hot-pot supremos like Hai
Di Lao owe a large part of their
popularity to impeccable service and the overall dining experience, rather than the actual
food itself. The attentiveness
of Heng Shan’s waiting staff is
defintely comparable.
H
eng Shan Hui’s new
venture, Xiao Guan, sees
them departing from
their usual Cantonese dim sums
and stir-fries to migrate north
on the culinary map to hot pot
territory. Their new premises is
adjacent to their existing branch
off Xiao Yun Lu, and inside a
minimalist interior departs from
a typical steamy hot pot house.
Back to the food, and in spicy
hot pots, regardless of what
vegetable or animal part gets
submerged, it always seems to
come out tasting overwhelmingly of chili – and that’s before
you’ve dipped it into your bowl
of condiments – most likely,
containing even more chili.
Choosing something less hot
might see you accused of being
a spice girl, but the Special Pork
Soft Bone Base (RMB128/pot)
at Heng Shan is a smoky alternative, and its peppery flavor
There is, of course, some irony
in critiquing the fare in a hot
pot joint, given that we, the
diners, are doing most of the
cooking and seasoning. We
only have ourselves to blame
when any inattentive ingredient-stirring results in a stewed
and lifeless bundle of greens
that lost all their goodness half
an hour before your rummag-
–ladle it into your bowl for a
pleasant starter soup – is more
subtle than the Sichuan Red Hot
Chili Base (RMB78).
Heng Shan's Cantonese ancestry might encourage you
to try some Shrimp Wantons
(RMB38), while the meat ranges
from standard pork (RMB32)
and lamb slices (RMB58) to
American Style Prime Marble
Beef (RMB138) and Supreme
Tendered Beef (RMB268). Lastly,
we have to recommend the
tofu plate (RMB58), which at
first glance resembles a cheeseboard, and offers numerous
shapes and consistencies of the
rubbery curd that are perfecting
for soaking up every last drop
of broth, spicy or not.
// Daily 11am-3am, 101-105 Kerry EAS
Logistics Building 1 North, Xiao Yun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路21号嘉里
大通大厦1号楼北楼101-105号 (6466
1211)
La Tavernita
New Spanish Steps Forward
BY Will Philipps
A
nother month, another new restaurant
on Xingfucun Zhong Lu.
That name doesn’t exactly roll
off the tongue, so we’ve been
championing the concession as
‘Craft Beer Street’. Although that
might seem a bit unfair now,
given the stretch is starting to
resemble a united nations of
nourishment: Chinese, French,
54
both sides of the Mexican border and now Spanish, with La
Tavernita.
La Tavernita, in keeping with
the rest of XFC’s eateries, is
unpretentious, with an affordable menu, yet clearly has some
brains in the kitchen. And local
knowledge: it’s Spanish operated
and refreshingly (for all of about
2 minutes, mind) the team aren't
all that fluent in English. But
what I like about this Spanish restaurant in China is that it actually
resembles a Spanish restaurant
in Spain – understated interior
of white walls, dark wood and
stainless steel. What I also like is
the fantastic array of imported
and reasonably priced (starting
at RMB60/100g) chorizo, jamon
and other Iberian cold cuts,
available to purchase over the
counter.
That's the idea, as coming here
at lunchtime it feels like a deli/
café type place, but come Friday
night you could fill its upstairs
with a hoard of clamouring
Catalans and you may as well be
in Barcelona’s trendiest tapas bar.
Tapas, of course, features heavily on the menu and includes a
healthy selection of jamons, croquetas and queso. The Manchego
cheese with Iberian loin (RMB25)
is sure to satisfy any homesick
Spaniards.
For mains, the Valencia style
paella (RMB110) was recommended as the chef’s pick. The
quite monstrous pan (their largest can feed 16, apparently) of
the gloopy rice was not the kind
of sweet corn yellow you might
expect, but a golden hue with
a rich tomato flavor to complement the chicken and rabbit.
Rather startlingly the Valencian
also purported to contain
‘Jewish’, which Google Translate
later revealed was a mistranslation of ‘green bean’. Cleary the
chinglish has been rubbing off
on La Tavernita: suppose it is,
after all, a Spanish restaurant in
China – but an entirely welcome
one at that.
// Daily, 11am-3pm, 5;30pm-midnight,
55-3 Just Make Building, Xingfucun Zhong
Lu, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路
杰座大厦55-3 (6417 5598)
new restaurants
TETSU
it's businessman time
etsu is one among the many Japanese restaurants over in the
Maizidian/Liangmaqiao area, the tone more a convivial sake
and noodles joint rather than a tranquil, tatami mat floor covered, tea and sashimi house. Its speciality is motsu (intestine hotpot),
which provides a broth for their signature pulled noodles, imported
all the way from Hong Kong. Sister restaurant, Kotetsu, specializing in
udon and yakitori sits next door.
By the time we ducked our heads under the obligatory noren slitted
entrance curtain (yes, we’re looking these words up) most of the
meagre crop of tables were already occupied – and, reassuringly,
mostly by suited and booted Japanese businessmen types. Top buttons undone, ties loosened, Godzilla-proportioned bottles of sake
uncorked: we suspect the consuming of intestine would be far from
the most daring of their evening’s activities.
We’d recommend the dish, though (RMB98). If you can get over the
toughness, you’ll be rewarded with a rich, stewy flavor that’s much
more interesting than, say, the fried chicken tatsutaage (RMB58), essentially a fried chicken flavor you’ve tried countless time before. The
hotpot is decorated with a verdant lawn of jiucai greenery (Chinese
chives). Those Japanese and their gardens…
We complemented the broth with Japanese Hokke mackerel
(RMB88), larger than your average mackerel and oily and meaty
enough to not need seasoning (but thankfully filleted for this western fusspot); a crunchy Caesar salad Japanease-style (sic); what is the
nation’s obsession with this salad? Our waitress had no idea – answers on a postcard please; and some octopus pre-dressed in wasabi
(RMB28) – thus sparing you the danger of a self-inflicted overdose.
Save perhaps for the Caesar, all recommended.
Address: Gongti Dongmen 10-11,
behind the secret door inside
Stadium Dog (6593 8227)
Email: [email protected]
y
l Speakeas
The OrigSininace 2009
T
By Will Philipps
FUBAR
Peking
Advertising Hotline
Tetsu’s shoulder to shoulder interior certainly creates some atmosphere – but so did the billowing clouds of smoke puffed out from
seemingly every other diner. We didn’t hang around after settling up
– the chill January air outside making for a welcome respite.
// Daily, 11:30-2pm, 6pm-1am (last order 12pm), Longbao Building, 36 Maizidian Jie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街36号龙宝大厦 ( 186 1133 2968)
55
eat / drink
New bars
Entourage
Bring the whole crew
By Will Philipps
Y
square kilometer), plus it’s slap
bang in the middle of expat enclave Central Park, and opposite
monster mall The Place.
This probably stems from their
decision to be a cocktail bar,
which is not in a hotel, outside
of Sanlitun – commendable. You
could say that’s a bold move,
but it really shouldn’t have to
be, (we don’t imagine all of
Shanghai’s bars are in a single
And don’t think it’s about this
place doing anything wrong;
they’re not (except, perhaps,
for the TV screen broadcasting
ice-hockey). Spacious and stylish, good music, intriguing and
not naff artwork on the walls
(part of the owner’s personal
collection), and the all important drinks list makes for some
tempting reading. We’d take a
date there.
ou shouldn’t have any
problem bringing your
whole entourage to
this sleek new Central Park
schmooze pit, such is the alarmingly accommodating customer
to empty chair ratio – or at least
it was on our weeknight visit.
The signature cocktails (RMB70)
are a bit trashy sounding: Flame
Passion, Whiskey Party, Fizzy
Melon. But what’s in a name?
They all taste good and they
took a reassuringly long time to
prepare. Good range of single
malts and other spirits, too.Get
there between 5 and 9pm for
their selected 2-for-1 happy hour
– leaving plenty of time to be
back in Sanlitun for dinner.
// Daily 10am-1am, 102, Blg 14, Central Park,
6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝
外大街6号新城国际公寓14号楼底商102
(6597 0544)
X-house
For peat’s sake
BY Anthony Tao
T
I relay this anecdote not to
highlight Li’s collection, which
is extensive – he owns more
than 400 kinds of single malt by
his estimation, possibly more
than anyone else in mainland
China – nor do I seek to convey
refinement, as if vintages are
supposed to impress you. (I’ll
briefly mention that Li also owns
a half-dozen bottles signed by
Charles Maclean, which probably doesn’t mean anything if
you’re not into Scotch, but if you
are: Holy peat!)
Rather, it’s merely to say that
Tony Li – whose first single
malt was a simple Macallan – is
a whisky lover, through and
through. That he would not own
a whisky bar almost seems like a
prodigious waste.
“I can enjoy any whisky that
56
marked at a mere RMB330 (a fine
beginner’s whisky, by the way),
and an Auchentoshan can be
yours for RMB476. Supermarket
whisky indeed.
he first Scotch that Tony
Li, owner of Beijing’s
newest whisky bar, pulls
off his shelf is a Braeval 12.
I’ve barely conjured the words
to describe the bottle’s shape
when he’s moved on to the Alltá-Bhainne, setting it down on
the counter. Proud without being protective, he shows me the
Auchroisk 30, then a signatory
1982 vintage of Linlithgow 28.
“I own the 29th bottle,” he says,
pointing to a label that indicates
only 351 were ever produced.
has strong characteristics,” he
says, which is why, later, we
share an entry-level Caol Ila 12
(RMB53), followed by a 14-yearold Laphroaig from the exclusive
cask of AD Rattray (RMB105). A
special sweetness peeks through
the iodine and smoke in the
latter, with lingering citrus and
spice. Li dabs a drop onto the
back of his hand and rubs it,
then sniffs, explaining: “This is
how you can figure out the cask
[sherry or oak].”
It’s this love for whisky that inspired Li to open X with his wife
Nancy. Their establishment is
technically called X-house, and
is actually split into six distinct
segments, including a restaurant,
cocktail lounge, wine cellar, cigar
room, and yet-to-be-opened
cafe. Li will happily talk about
oysters, steak, caviar and wine,
but it’s his whisky bar – single
malts only, all lined up along one
wall – that energizes him.
“I want others to enjoy these,”
he says. “I think a lot of people
want this, but they’re priced-out
elsewhere.” The word Li uses,
multiple times, is ‘supermarket,’ as in: He wants to sell his
product at supermarket – not
hotel – prices. Thus, a one-ounce
pour of Cragganmore 12 is only
RMB49, a Talisker 10 RMB52,
and an Edradour 10 – cloyingly
delicious – costs RMB58. Bottles
are for sale too: the smoky and
complex Springbank 10 runs for
a fair RMB588, an Aberlour 10 is
We’ll note here that, if you’ve
seen the average crowd outside
Sanlitun’s Heaven on a Friday
night, you’d be forgiven for
remaining skeptical about the
concept of a drinkers’ supermarket. But X isn’t actually that, of
course: it’s a bar, a fine one with
mood lighting, music that insinuates itself into your buzz, and
nuts and raisins provided with
every order.
Near the end of my tour (I was
there that night for a Belgian
beer-and-ice-cream pairing organized by Glacio; expect more
of these type of tasting events
at X-house), Li holds a bottle
of Knockando 25 to the light.
“Look,” he says, marveling at
the color: a rich burgundy, like
caramel to the eyes. In this moment, he is neither bartender
nor salesman, but a collector
and admirer. He’s just a dude
with 400-plus whiskys because
he loves them – and hopes you
might as well.
// Daily, 10.30am-2am, No. 5 Xinyuan South
Road West Tower Commercial Mansion No.
16-19, Chaoyang District 朝阳区新源南路
5号北京公馆西塔商业16-19号 (8447
4490; [email protected])
Nbeer pub
The N stands for Niubi
BY Stephen George
I
t’s hard to pinpoint when it
happened exactly, when the
industrial mega-lagers – the
Foster’s and Carlsberg’s of this
world, fell so totally and hopelessly out of fashion, when
everyone you knew suddenly
became an ale expert and buying
a pint at your local bar became
a character-defining life choice.
But happen it did. Beer, in case
you haven’t noticed, has become
to the under 30s, what wine is
to the over 60s. Check out just
about any decent bar anywhere
in the world, gone are the generic taps, and in their place are
an array of impossibly obscure
brews, with names like “Old
Wimple Flaps” and “Sourfaced
Shit Goblin.” The phenomenon,
of course, is part of the wider
gentrification of foodstuffs – the
fetishization of produce – it’s no
longer good enough for beer
to get you wasted, today it has
to be handcrafted with notes of
organic rhubarb.
Take the disingenuous concept
of “Craft beer” – even piss
weak Tsingtao, churned out in
factory-sized vats and sold by
the bucketful to drunken half-wit
holidaymakers in Thai clubs is
produced – and thus “crafted” –
by someone. The real difference,
‘It’s no longer good enough
for beer to get you wasted,
today it has to be handcrafted
with notes of organic rhubarb’
ale enthusiasts will tell you, is the
taste, and of course that’s true.
Only a moron would argue otherwise. No one likes Fosters. Not
even the people who “craft” it.
So why the hate? Because nothing kills a good night faster than
listening to people discuss how
their beer tastes. And herein lies
the problem with Nbeer Pub.
With a seemingly endless selection of beers from around the
world, it is destined to become
a magnet for the type of tedious
shit-churning bores that ask to
sample a beer before buying
it. Which is a shame. Because
it’s among the very best bars in
Beijing. Even the music is good.
Compounding these problems,
is Nbeer Pub’s bizarre location.
Hidden away inside a fake republican era faux-gothic monstrosity,
mid-way down Huguosi Jie’s
Disney studio lot recreation of
a traditional Beijing
street, it’s not the sort of place
you can just “pop by” – it’s a veritable day trip. So, all considered,
is it worth the journey way out
west? From what we saw, yes.
There’s no smugness or pretentiousness here, yet. Just a genuine, if obsessive, love of beer.
The pub is split roughly into
four: there’s the massive wall
fridge – easily the city’s biggest
– housing close to a thousand
beers from places as far flung
as Transylvania and Newton
Abbot, with prices ranging from
RMB25 to RMB2,000. There’s the
bar with over 35 taps (RMB25
to RMB55) serving just about
every microbrew you’ve ever
encountered in China, including
Slowboat, Jing A, Tipsy Face,
Panda Brew and Great Leap,
and many you haven’t – such
as Tibetan Red Ale, Master
Gao’s (Chengdu) and Harvest
(Nanjing). There’s long
raised bench style-seating,
with enough space to accommodate around 50 patrons.
And finally, there’s the onsite
DIY brewery. Unlike other
microbrews, Nbeer pub allows
you – for the sum of RMB1,780
– to “craft” your own 20-liter
keg. Making use of their expert
knowledge, the team will guide
you through the fermentation
process, step-by-step. The result:
a unique personalized brew, rich
in whatever flavors you happen
to have thrown in the mix, that
you can choose to take home,
or connect to the taps and
share with the world. They even
promise to chuck in custom designed labels as part of the deal.
Honestly, it’s an inspired idea.
With Beijing now packed full of
microbreweries and import beer
bars, Nbeer Pub is positioning
itself as an authority of sorts – a
type of laid back beer arbiter.
Whether the city needs one is
another question, but for now,
we’re more than happy to give
our assent.
// Daily 3pm-late, F1-6, 1/F, Huguo Xintiandi,
85 Huguosi Dajie, Xicheng District 西城区
护国寺大街85号护国新天地一层F1-6
(8328 8823)
57
community
tiger father
PRETEEN PASSION
LOVE IN THE TIME OF THIRD GRADE
BY TREVOR MARSHALLSEA
W
hen I became a father
of girls two things
happened.
lunch with Lani and her friends
revealed, even at that age, love
is a battlefield.
Half the population laughed and
rubbed their hands together,
chortling that I’d get my just
desserts for how I’d treated their
people as a single man.
One girl was sure this boy was
her soul mate until she made
a shocking discovery. “Was he
seen with another girl?” I asked.
Worse – he was seen wiping his
nose on his sleeve.
(When I didn’t understand
this at all, I asked my wife for
an explanation. When I didn’t
understand that either I just
dropped it.)
The other thing was I had to
decide what approach I’d take
to parenting. It seemed a simple
choice between two sets of values… Victorian or Edwardian.
‘She was sure
he was her soul
mate until she
made a shocking
discovery. Was he
seen with another
girl? Worse – he
wiped his nose on
his sleeve’
In time, though, I opted for
‘groovy.’ I realized as the girls
grew up there’d be no use fighting what the heart wanted and
nature demanded. I decreed the
two of them could start dating
as soon as they turned 30.
But this Valentine’s month I’m
reeling in shock. Our eldest,
Lani, is only eight, but already
the heart-tingling idea of love
has reared its ugly head. It’s only
the third grade but boyfriends
and girlfriends are all the rage.
In the wonderfully transparent
style of the playground, the targets of ‘crushes’ have been firmly decided, and publicly declared
in formal announcements.
There’s also a game, a bit like
Truth or Dare, in which girls
have to nominate boys at school
in one of four ‘categories of the
heart.’ It’s called Kiss, Marry,
Punch, Kill. It baffled our girls a
bit when I explained how, when
we grow up, we usually attach
ourselves to one person, and
that that person ticks all four
boxes, but they’ll learn.
I didn’t start with girlfriends until the ripe old age of 10. At one
game-changing school camp
everyone acquired a girl/boyfriend as a grown-up thing to
do while away from our parents
(and with the grace of piranhas
on a carcass).
My best friend was a girl, Kerryn
Johnstone. It seemed we were
58
sat next to each other every
year. We figured this was fate –
that our hearts should beat as
one. It wasn’t until years later I
realized it was because of alphabetical order.
Kerryn and I decided we should
naturally become boyfriend and
girlfriend. The result, of course,
was the immediate cessation of
all contact. We could no longer
be seen within 50 meters of
each other for fear of being
teased. It was a huge relief that
our relationship finally got back
on track when, in the language
of the time, I “dropped her.”
Leanne Miller was next up. She’d
asked me to “go with her” four
times before I acquiesced, telling her softly that it was her
“reward for having guts.” After a
few weeks of more no-contact I
knew this one had run its course
too. I respected her, however,
and felt it needed to be ended
nicely. So I asked my friend
Eddie Foster to do it.
Eddie rose to the task without a
moment’s hesitation. I wish he
had hesitated, because at that
moment we were a good 20 meters from our class line-up when
he screamed “Hey Miller! You’re
dropped!” – and the poor girl
shrank while everyone laughed
and hooted.
I had my own heart broken in
turn a few weeks later by Sonia
Favero. I loved her so, and had
fantasies about her. Being 10,
these comprised picturing myself taking out the bins, without
complaint, at the home we
would share. But that ended
abruptly when Sonia done me
wrong with an unforgivable act
of betrayal. She had her hair cut
short.
Nowadays, though, even the
third graders are into it. But as
Another boy had asked Lani’s
friend out on a date. I asked
what a “date” could possibly
mean at that age, and was told
that – “D’uh” – it meant a trip to
the movies. Still, the plan was
scuppered by a problem fairly
common to the eight-year-old.
“He hasn’t got any money,” the
friend told me. “So he said he
couldn’t buy me popcorn. I’m
not buying my own!”
Another girl was similarly dismissive of Lani’s crush interest.
“He’s too short,” she huffed.
“He’s only eight!” I said. “Give
him a break.” But she was unmoved.
This girl has even informed ours
what sex is, owing to the fact
that she possesses that most
useful of things: a big brother.
The explanation was relayed to
us by Lani.
“Well, the man lies on his back
and the woman gets on top of
him,” she said. “And then the
man puts his penis in the woman’s vagina, and he stays there
for about an hour and then
takes it out.”
Thankfully, for my wife was
there, the big brother’s credibility was soon dashed by another
revelation. It’s a fair bet he’s the
only person alive who knows
what sex is – give or take 58
minutes – whilst still believing
in Santa.
Then again, they’re learning
early these days.
// Trevor Marshallsea was a foreign
correspondent in Beijing in the 1990s and
returned a decade later. This time around
he stays at home to grow the kids. Read
more of his domestic adventures at www.
thetigerfather.com
Health
Hygienic holidaymaking
the importance of food safety abroad
By Michelle Park
street food and undercooked
meat if you have a sensitive
stomach. Stomach aches can
also be caused by allergic reactions to chemicals that are
actually put into the water, often used in cooking. Bottled
water is cheap and can be
found in every cornershop,
supermarket, and grocer.”
xperiencing stomach aches from local food is
one of the most common maladies afflicting
foreigners in China – from fresh-faced backpackers to old China hand expats. Since some
of the more, shall we say, ‘adventurous’ foods
that foreigners encounter here in China – we’re talking animals’ lung, heart, brain, intestines, blood etc. – are harder
to digest, they can cause havoc for our uninitiated and
pampered insides.
Diarrhea and stomach
ache are quite common health concerns
in Beijing. Dr. Zhang
tells us that symptoms
include loose stools,
stomach cramps, acute
nausea, vomiting and
a high fever. To avoid
diarrhea, make sure all
food is well cooked and
piping hot before eating
and only drink bottled
water wherever you travel
in China. It’s recommended
you carry around an alcohol
based hand gel and wash your
hands as regularly as possible. If you find yourself with
a bad case of food poisoning,
visit one of the many chemists throughout Beijing. You
should be able to get by with
hand gestures and a basic level
of Chinese from a pocket language book or app to tell them
what’s wrong. “Why not ask
someone at your hotel lobby
to write down the problem?”
Dr. Zhang suggests. “Bring
anti-diarrhea medication and
charcoal tablets from home to
be on the safe side and make
sure you drink plenty of fluids
for rehydration. You should be
as good as new after a few days
of rest!
“Not many foreigners are really familiar with authentic
Chinese food,” says Dr Zhang,
one of the directors of medical
care at Passion International
Medical Center, Beijing. “Peking
duck in China, for example, is
crispier, harder and oilier than
what they have in their home
countries. This won’t affect
the sensation as you guzzle it
down, but newcomers will find
that their digestive system isn’t
so good at processing all the
new foodstuffs, commonly leading to diarrhea and a certain
amount of discomfort.”
“Foreigners mostly struggle
with the different medical system here in China being so unlike what they get back home,
as many Chinese hospitals are
packed and with little privacy to
be found. However, if you have
good health insurance, you can
probably find more hospitals
or clinics where you can be
checked straight away.” So even
if you’re a marathon-running
fitness freak, it’s highly recommended to travel with health
insurance – accidents always
can happen. Also make sure
you keep all documentation
E
Dr Zhang, who graduated from
the China University of Medical
Science in Shenyang, also spent
ten years at the Mayo Clinic in
Minnesota, USA as a visiting
scholar and a research fellow
– where he himself experienced the shock to the system
caused by a non-native diet.
Since working back in China he
has found that many first time
visitors to Beijing experience
at least some slight stomach
problems, mostly arising from
the different spices and flavors
used in Chinese cooking. “Most
importantly, you should avoid
‘Stomach cancer
is currently on the
rise in China, and
the disease kills
about 300,000
people here each
year’
related to any medical expenses
that you may incur.
The handling, storing and preparing of food are the most important areas to tackle in order
to reduce the possibility of food
contamination. “Bacteria and
parasites can travel happily with
the wind, float in water, hitch
lifts with dust and reside snugly
in the soil,” Zhang warns. “They
are a part of nature’s web of life
and will always be a possible
source of contamination if not
dealt with appropriately as part
of a consistent and dedicated
approach to food hygiene.” So
if you want to eat out, be sure
to pay attention to the conditions of food and food service
hygiene. That cheap and easy
street food fix might not look
so appealing if there’s a lengthy
hospital stay involved.
On a more serious level, stomach cancer is currently on the
rise in China, and the disease
kills about 300,000 people here
each year. Furthermore, it is the
most common cancer among
women in China. Western fastfood is very popular here – especially amongst young people
– and it contains high levels of
saturated fat, simple carbohydrates, and sugar, with much
processing and little nutritional
value. “As a nation moving
rapidly through an economic
and nutritional transition,” Dr.
Zhang warns, “hopefully China
will soon discern the recent
links between health scares
and a Western-style diet before
beginning to reconsider the
idealized image of Western fast
food.”
59
events
pick of six art exhibitions
Beijing
Voice:
Relations
Xu Zhen, a Madeln
Company Production
Ongoing. UCCA Great Hall and Lobby,
798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 北京市朝阳区酒仙
桥路4号798艺术区([email protected].
cn, 5780 0200)
All month. PACE
BEIJING, 798
Art District, 2
Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区酒仙桥路
2号798艺术中心
(5978 9786)
Gregory Burns in China 1984-2014
Until Feb 27. 10am-6pm. Closed during Spring Festival. 4F, exhibition hall of Building 1, Today
Art Museum, Pingguo Community, 32 Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹
果社区4号楼 (5876 0600 www.todayartmuseum.com)
“N12-No. 5”
Ongoing.
Beijing Commune,
4 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District
北京市朝阳区酒仙
桥路4号798艺术区
(8456 2862)
Gabriel Orozco Chicotes
Ongoing. Faurschou Foundation Beijing, 798 Art District, 2
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District (59789316)
Wonderland: Ana Tzarev solo exhibition
Until Feb 25. 10am-6pm, closed during the Spring Festival. 2F and 3F exhibition hall of Building 1, Today Art Museum, Pingod community, 32 Baiziwan
Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区(958760600-100,
www.todayartmuseum.com)
60
events
Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are
not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@
urbanatomy.com. For some details, see Listings.
Eat & DRINK
FEB 2
! for
WIuN
chers
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Two v oon tea at ail
aftern indigo, em .
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my
Flamm@urbanato ’
prizes m ‘Flamme
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NIGHTLIFE
DJ: RetroDance Chinese New Year
Count down to the year of the Horse
with Tangsuan Radio's RetroDance
team DJs Demone and Brass Funky
Joker.
// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings)
Hike: Auspicious Village and
Huanghuacheng Great Wall
Head out to Huairou County for a
countryside walk through farmland,
hills, dales and valleys. There might
even be a chance for a sing-song.
//RMB400, RMB360 for members. (64328038,
[email protected], www.beijinghikers.
com)
COMMUNITY
FEB 3 TO FEB 5
COMMUNITY
Workshop: Screen Printing
This workshop introduces the screen
printing method in general and the
various uses of this method such as
printing on cloth (t-shirt), canvas, posters and so on. Finally, your own face
on a t-shirt.
// 2-5pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3, Jinxiu
Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路锦绣
园C楼202室
NIGHTLIFE
ALL MONTH
Eat: Afternoon Tea Buffet at Flamme
“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea.” So said Earl-Grey sipping writer Henry James and
so say Flamme, who’d very much like you to dedicate a few hours of your afternoon to their tea buffet, which includes two cups of leafy brew (or coffee) and a
choice of over 25 desserts, like macaroons, mille-feuille and chocolate chip cupcakes. For February it’s on offer for the special price of RMB98 for two people.
// Monday to Friday 2-4pm, RMB98(per couple), Flamme Indigo (see listings)
COMmunity
SPORTS
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Bob Marley Day
Beijing’s annual Reggae party returns
with live music from One Drop and DJs
spinning the best of dancehall, reggae
and dub.
// RMB100 (door), RMB70 (presale), 7pm,
Yugongyishan (see listings for details)
Gig: Xu Jun
Gritty folk singer-songwriter from
Xi’an plays deep-chested tunes that
you don’t doubt as anything but real,
especially when he busts out his native
Shaanxi dialect.
// RMB40, 9pm, Blue Stream Bar, 183 Jiu Gulou
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大
街183号 (158 1136 8566)
FEB 9
COMMUNITY
NIGHTLIFE
FEB 6
NIGHTLIFE
FEB 3 TO FEB 7
DJ: Ministry Of Sound Tribute Session,
Back to the 90's
Migas are ‘avin’ it large mate, proper
90s style, Kangol hats, cheap lager…
and fit birds (we hope). All the big
Gig: Chang Kuan & Baby Brother
Celebrated 80s rocker Chang Kuan
resurrects his act for a crowd of young
Chinese with mobile internet and one
foreigner, who will eventually write a
book about him. DJ Ouyang supports.
// RMB150, RMB100 (presale), 9pm,
Yugongyishan (see listings for details).
FEB 8
Hike: Yu County’s Ancient Walled
Towns and Fireworks of Molten Iron
Make the most of the week off with a
two-day trip out of Beijing. Almost four
hours’ drive northwest of Beijing city is
Yu County, home to ancient pagodas,
temples, pavilions, and large gates and
plaques inside fortified walled towns.
// RMB1,800 (RMB1,620 for members), pickup
at 8am from from Lido Hotel Starbucks, nr.
Liangmaqiao subway (www.beijinghikers.com)
Workshop: Introduction to
Photography
Looks like Spring Festival is all about
the workshops. Beijing Academy of
Creative Arts (BACA) are running one
on fire art photography suitable for all
abilities.
// RMB6500, 10am-4pm.. A602, Yonghe
Mansion 雍和大厦, 28 East Street of
Andingmen, Dongcheng District
FEB 4
Sports
FEB 2 TO FEB 5
Workshop: CNY Street/Travel
Photography
Want to learn how to take better photographs without using Instagram?
This four day intensive workshop will
combine technique, theory, on the
ground shooting and post processing.
// 9.30am-1.30pm. Atelier, Room 202, Bldg. 3,
Jinxiu Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu 幸福村中路
锦绣园C楼202室
names from the glory days of UK
house and trance on the sound-system. DJs Kiran Patel and Kai.
// Free before 11pm, RMB30 after, The Bar at
Migas (see listings for details)
Feb 3
Sports: NFL China Official
Superbowl Party
NFL China hosts the official Super Bowl party at Kerry – pretty much the next
best thing to actually being there yourself. Watch in style with a full American
buffet breakfast, unlimited Budweiser, and even a few surprise guests. (Joe
Montana made an appearance at Kerry a few weeks back.) This year’s final is
taking place in NYC, and though we can’t tell you which two teams will be pitted against one another, we are pretty excited about a Red Hot Chili Peppers
half time show. Great excuse to get drunk in the morning, too.
// RMB2,800/table of 10 or RMB300/single ticket, (RMB188/child under 12), 7am, , Kerry Hotel, 1
Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号 ([email protected], 156
1190 6392)
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Backtrack
Upcoming hardcore quintet from Long
Island, New York returns to Beijing to
tour latest album Lost in Life. If you
haven’t heard of them, take a gamble.
“Gambling has definitely made my life
better, sometimes it’s made me want
to kill myself, but for the most part,
it’s made it a lot better,” says frontman
James Vitalo.
// No cover, Mao Livehouse, (see listings for
details)
COMMUNITY
Talk: Looking for the Masterplan,
61
events
Eat & DRINK
a Crash Course in Beijing’s Urban
Development
Why was the capital originally placed
on the Huabei plain? And exactly
where is the first ring road? (What,
you didn’t read our cover story last
month?) Lars Ulrik Thom of Beijing
Postcards explains all.
//4pm, RMB 75, includes a drink; students,
RMB 20 Reservations required: (86-10) 6702
2727, [email protected].
Capital M (see listings for details.)
Gig: Rap crew In3
For twelve years this Beijing underground hip hop crew, led by the
infamous In3, has cut up traditional
music samples, embraced native rhyming patterns and collaborated with
everyone from DJ Wordy to rap-metal
Twisted Machine. Plus, they’re great
for learning Chinese swears, such as
“got so much style it’ll rip you a second asshole.”
// RMB100, RMB70 (presale), 9pm.
FEB 11
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: The Lumineers
(see page 28)
// RMB260, (RMB200 presale), 8pm, Tango 3/F,
79 Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng District 东城区
和平里西街79号 (6428 2288)
FEB 12
NIGHTLIFE
Music: The Tribesmen at Salud
Unique Central Asian folk music remixed with reggae and Spanish rumba
flamenco. So hot right now.
//Free, 8pm. Salud (see listings for details)
FEB 13
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Magic Bus
With members hailing from London,
Tokyo and Beijing, this melodic rock
posse provides the Brit rock required
for a well-balanced diet.
//Free, 10pm, Temple (see listings for details)
FEB 13 AND 27
COMMUNITY
Health: Mindfulness and Body
Awareness Practice
Based on the eastern practices of
qigong, yoga and meditation Dalida
Turkovic shares simple and effective
ways to experience mind-body connection for increased confidence, focus
and health. It’s that easy.
// 7:15, RMB100, cash payment only (RMB70 for
early bird sign up 3 days before) Kocoon Spa, 1/F,
Taiyue Heights, 16 Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号
([email protected], 132
4169 6021)
FEB 14
NIGHTLIFE
Comedy: Funny Valentine's
Girls love a guy with a sense of humor – so take them to see these guys.
Daniel Ryan Spaulding, featuring Kyrie
Gray Neil Fausero. Special Deals on
1421 wine from Xinjiang.
// RMB100 (includes two free shots), 9pm,
Fubar, (see listings for more info)
DJ: Ralph Zuckermann
This Berlin beatmaker returns on
Valentine's Day to give this town the
deep house it needs. Come on, his
name basically means “Sugar Daddy”
in German. Basically.
// No cover 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)
Gig: Valentine’s at Mao Livehouse
Your girlfriend will surely be ready
62
for loving after hours of diddling her
cellphone as you mosh to some of
Beijing’s biggest indie bands, such as
crowd favorites Residence A, Glow
Curve, Los Crasher and more.
// RMB100, RMB80 (presale for singles,
RMB140 for couples) 8.30pm. Mao Livehouse
(see listings for details)
Valentines in Beijing
Valentine’s: the time of the year where reluctant Casanovas dust off their
A-game and get ready to cripple their current accounts with a romantic banquet for two. As well as the events below, and in the columns have a look at
our six of the best on p.48. No date? There’s always “dating” app MoMo…
FEB 12
Dance: Square dance and singles mixer for Valentine's Day
Group dancing is a bit like speed dating without conversation – very easy to
move on to the next date if the moves aren’t doing it for you.
//9-11pm, RMB30. Fubar, (see listings)
FEB 14
Valentine’s Dinners
Agua
Agua’s chefs have concocted the ultimate menu of attraction with tapas to
share, lobster and, of course, some sparkling wine. RMB796/per couple.
// Agua, see listings.
Pinotage
Eat at the South African restaurant on Valentine’s and you and your loved
one will be serenaded by a classical guitar playing minstrel. How romantic.
RMB888/couple.
// Building 2, 2-105, 1/F, Sanlitun SOHO, 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北
路8号三里屯SOHO2号楼2-105 ( 5785 3538) Also available at Shunyi branch, see listings.
Sureno
Head to the basement of The Opposite House for their 4 course set menu at
RMB328/person (wine pairing RMB298/person).
Intercontinental Beijing Beichen
4-course set menu is available at RMB798/couple, including a bottle of sparkling wine. Why not book a room for the night too?
// Intercontinental Beijing Beichen, 8 Beichen Xilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区北辰西路8号 (www.intercontinental.com/bjbeichen, 8437 1188)
Westin Beijing Financial Street
Nothing says romance like an extravagant international seafood buffet.
RMB888/couple including 2
glasses of sparkling wine, a box
of chocolates and a red rose for
the lady.
// The Westin Beijing Financial Street,
9B, Financial Street, XiCheng District,
Beijing 100140 China 西城区金融大街
乙9号6629 7810 f&[email protected]
Renaissance Tianjin
Make a weekend break of it in Tianjin.
The Renaissance’s set menu is RMB328/
person; buffet dinner RMB388/person;
and cocktail selection RMB 100/2glasses.
// Renaissance Tianjin Lakeview Hotel, 16 Binshui Lu,
Hexi District, Tianjin 天津市河西区滨水路16号
(5822 3388)
Valentine's Day at Lantern Club
Er… we can’t think of many places in
Beijing less romantic than Lantern club,
but then again maybe that’s not such a
bad thing. Games and drinks deals.
// RMB50 (ladies free), 8pm, Lantern (see listings for details)
DJ: Valentine's at CICADA
Treat that special someone to the
very best this Valentine's Day with
bottles of Perrier-Jouët Blason Rosé at
RMB1,314 and a menu of handcrafted
champagne cocktails. Resident DJ
Vinnie Q will be spinning some sultry
soulful sounds all night.
// No cover, 9pm, CICADA Ultralounde (see listings for more info)
EAT/DRINK
Eat: Valentine’s Day Dinner
Let the Italian Chef Nadia, take you on
a culinary journey with a 5-course set
menu with wine pairing featuring signature specialties from Venice and its
surrounding villages.
// RMB1,088 per couple (food only), RMB1,314
per couple (including wine pairing) subject
to 15% service charge. The Westin Beijing
Financial Street, 9B, Financial Street, Xicheng
District 金融街威斯汀大酒店, 西城区
金融大街乙9号 (6629 7815, f&b.beijing@
westin.com)
FEB 15
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Trap Dong
Local crew Digital Freedom/Raw Meat
swing Trap all night long and slap their
big bass in your face. Trap, if you didn’t
know, is the new Dubstep. Just another
genre you’ll look stupid dancing to.
// No cover, 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)
DJ: Psyfidelity
GoaProductions DJs Dan, Anan,
Rigelmade and Nomi spin a night of
trance for the right price.
// RMB40, 10pm, Mako Livehouse (see listings
for details)
Gig: Nova Heart
These Beijing rock ambassadors return
from touring Europe, Australia and
Madagascar (we know) with new tunes
to try on their hometown. DH and
the Chinese Hellcats, Da Bang and Jia
Huizhen support.
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Tursun
Xinjiang flamenco guitar virtuoso
shows he's got the fastest chops and
curliest mane of hair in the West. // RMB40 (RMB30 pre-sale), 9pm. 69 Café, 109
Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District 东城区
南锣鼓巷109号 (6403 2869)
DJ: Beijing Creatives Group
Choice indie shorts show at this meetand-greet for the local creative community.
// 7pm, Dada (see listings for details)
COMMUNITY
COMMUNITY
Film: The Blinding Sunlight (85 mins)
A profile of the real lives of those
people who live in the southern part
of Beijing, criticizing the incomplete
Chinese educational and social welfare
system.
// 7pm, RMB20. Zajia Lab, Doufuchi Hutong,
Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区
鼓楼北锣鼓巷旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同
(8404 9141)
Talk: Childbirth Preparation
How to make the birthing process as
comfortable as possible, from creating a healthy birthing environment to
utilizing deep relaxation techniques.
Scary stuff. 3 weekly classes (total: 12
hour course).
// RMB2500 per birthing couple, 9am-1pm,
Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics,
2 Jiangtai Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区将
台路2号 ([email protected], http://
chinahypnobirthing.com)
Community: Charity Fashion Show
The Charity Fashion Show is an annual event held by students in the
International School of Beijing.
Proceeds go to Hope Healing Home, a
home for orphans in Beijing. The show
showcases both designs from students
and attire from actual brands.
// RMB50-100, 7-9pm, International School of
Beijing (ISB), 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 顺
义安华路10号 (8149 2345)
FEB 16
NIGHTLIFE
Gig: Before My Life Fails
Japanese screamo quintet Before My
Life Fails tour China. Saving Molly, Shut
Up! Shut Down! support.
// RMB120, RMB90 (presale), 9pm.
Film: Indie Short Films
The Beijing Creatives Group will show
some choice indie short films at this
meet-and-greet for the local creative
community.
// No cover 7pm, Dada, (see listings for details)
FEB 21
EAT/DRINK
FEB 15
Gig: The Beijing Beatles
Newly opened Basement Club in Sanlitun South is converting itself into the
world famous Cavern Club, where the Beatles played 292 times between 1961
and 1963 (8 days a week, presumably). The Beijing Beatles (who else?) are rolling back the years to provide Basement with the sounds of the swinging sixties. “In the town, where I was born…”
//RMB100, 8pm till late. Basement club, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu, (opposite Kro’s Nest & QMex)
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (
Arts
COMMUNITY
Movie: Blue is the Warmest Color (dir.
Abdellatif Kechiche)
This one won Palme d'Or at Cannes
last year, so it's legitimate and not just
an esoteric excuse for a 10-minute
lesbian sex scene. French with English
subtitle.
// Free, 9pm, Dada (see listings for details)
NIGHTLIFE
COMMUNITY
School: Harrow Open Day
Harrow International School Beijing
are holding an open morning in
Hegezhuang. Come and visit the
students and staff of Harrow School
Beijing and tour the whole school (age
2-18) focusing on areas relevant to
your children.
// 8.45am-12pm, Harrow International School
Beijing, 287, Hegezhuang Village, Cuigezhuang
County 崔各庄乡何各庄村287号 (register at
[email protected], www.harrowbeijing.
cn, 6444 8900 exit 6900/6000)
FEB 18
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Beer and Rock Night
Like drinking beer? Like listening to
loud rock music? This pioneering
event has both.
// No cover, 8pm, Fubar (see listings)
FEB 22
COMMUNITY
FEB 19
Drink: Wine Talk, A Flight of Greek
Wine
Discover the delicious diversity and
rare excellence of the new wines of
Greece with China resident and fifthgeneration Greek winemaker Mihalis
Boutaris. Or just get sloshed.
// 7.30pm, RMB138, Capital M, 3 Floor, 2
Qianmen Pedestrian Street, Dongcheng
District 东城区前门步行街2号3层 ( 6702
2727)
Gig: Buyi
Veteran rockers from West China’s
Ningxia celebrate the lunar new year
with a stellar set and one of the best
session keyboard players around.
// RMB80, RMB50 (presale), 9pm, Temple (see
listings for details)
FEB 17
Talk: Barriers to Fluent
Communication Training Session
Sometimes we either are unaware, or
not sensitive to, what blocks progress
in the way we communicate. This talk
will change all that. We find a few
beers generally helps.
// 7pm RMB110 presale, 125 RMB RSVP,
200RMB walk-ins, Zeta Bar, Hilton Beijing,
1 Dongfang Lu, North Dongsanhuan Road,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路东方
路一号(www.fcgroup.org, [email protected],
139 1109 8002)
NIGHTLIFE
NIGHTLIFE
ALL MONTH
Film: Asian Cinema Week Calls
for Submissions
Made a parody rap video about Beijing? Or a hilarious new take on Gangnam
style? Pur-lease – serious entries only. Asian Cinema Week 2014 is teaming up
with JUE festival and are calling for submissions for the best short film. Docs,
animations, music vids and fiction films are all welcome.
//Please email: [email protected], or send your films (under 20 minutes) on DVD to Split Works
Office, 74 Dongsishisantiao, Dongcheng District 东城区东四十三条74号亚洲电影周办公室
8408 4637
DJ: Taxxeee Tapes Vol. 3
Local producer lineup 87 fei 87 lay out
their beats to see whose swings the
lowest.
Gig: The Beijing Dead!
Your new favorite tribute band. No
shoes or shirts required.
// No cover, Jianghu Bar (see listings for
details)
DJ: SVEN VATH
Sven Väth is the undisputed figurehead
63
events
of the German club scene and the
head honcho behind labels like Eye Q
and Cocoon Recordings. His name is
also undeniably badass.
// RMB200 presale, RMB300 at door, 10pm,
Beijing Tango, 79 Hepingli Xijie, Dongcheng
District 东城区和平里西街79号 (www.
gettickets.cn)
Community
ALL MONTH
ART
ARTS
Exhibition: Xu Zhen, A Made In
Company Production Including over 30 installation pieces,
10 videos, 20 paintings, and several
performances, this exhibition spans
Xu Zhen’s early works made in his own
name, beginning in the late 1990s.
// Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, 798 Art
District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区尤伦斯当代
艺术中心 ([email protected], 5780 0200)
UCCA Selects: Distant
Tang Zhengfan’s first work, Distant,
uses thirteen fixed shots to depict the
daily lives and dramatics of a city in
southern China.
// RMB20, UCCA Members RMB10; free for
2013 UCCA Members. 4.30pm, Ullens Center for
Contemporary Art (UCCA) (see listings for details)
FEB 26
Exhibition: Ji Dachun, Without a
Home
“Ji Dachun: Without a Home” spans
several key moments in the artist’s
prodigious career and includes a new
suite of works made specifically for this
exhibition.
艺术中心 ([email protected], 5780 0200)
COMMUNITY
Film：Shanghai Shorts Showcase
Not a collection of the city’s best cut
off trousers, but in fact a selection of
Shanghai-shot short videos made by independent film makers and groups that
inspire community-based film making.
// RMB20, 7.30pm, Zajia lab (see listings or
details)
FEB 28
COMMUNITY
Charity: Books at Atelier
Buy books and magazines at Atelier
(most French, some English) and all
the money will be donated to www.
couleursdechine.org, a French NGO
raising money to provide education to
children in Guangxi.
// 9.30am-6.30pm, Atelier, Room 202, Bldg.
3, Jinxiu Yuan, Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区幸福村中路锦绣园C楼202室
FEB 22
Film: Spray Paint Beijing
(Lance Crayon)
You don’t see much of it around, but these guys have been to capture some
Beijing street art firsthand. The first documentary ever made about graffiti in
China captures the art’s momentum in the capital over the course of a year and
also reveals a handful of the artists, foreign and Chinese, who draw on walls
when no one’s looking (English subtitles).
// 5pm, RMB20, Zajia Lab, Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼北锣
鼓巷旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同 (156 0112 2252)
Eat & DRINK
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Stuff'd DJs
Donald Summer spins house that can
be best described with many different
adjectives.
Gig: Carsick Cars CD Release
Chui Wan support (see page 29).
COMMUNITY
EVERY SATURDAY
AND SUNDAY
COMMUNITY
Art: Canvas Social Painting
Canvas Events host awesome social
painting parties at Gori. No experience
needed, just bring some creativity and
unleash your inner Monet.
// RMB200, 2-5pm, fee covers art instruction
64
Exhibition: Art Post Internet “Art Post-Internet” presents a broad
survey of art that is controversially
defined as “post-internet,” which is
to say, consciously created in a milieu
where the centrality of the network is
assumed.
艺术中心([email protected], 5780 0200)
EAT/DRINK
Eat: Vamos Mediterraneo!
Sanlitun's mecca of Mediterranean
restaurants – Agua, Migas, Mosto
and Sureno – have teamed up to create a special voucher booklet offering Beijing residents special holiday
promotions. Proceeds go to Morning
Tears charity who improve the lives of
children whose parents are in prison.
// Runs all month until March 15, (see listings
for restaurant details)
Drink: Love Is in the Air
As cupid’s arrow strikes, impress your
significant other with an oversized
cocktail for two at Plush Lobby Lounge
or Buzz Bar.
// The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B,
Financial Street, Xicheng District 金融街威
斯汀大酒店, 西城区金融大街乙9号 (6629
7825, f&[email protected])
EVERY WEDNESDAY
Game: Mashup Pickup Basketball
Don’t have time for a full league?
Work always makes you travel? Those
chaps in the NBA taking it all just a bit
too seriously? Join mashup. Weekly
games, 3 full courts and plenty of fun
for everyone.
// 7.30-9.30pm, BCIS in Shuangjing (www.
mashupsports.com)
and painting materials and coffee and cake.
1/F, Bldg AB, Ocean Office Park, 10 Jintong Xilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区金桐西路十号远洋
光华国际AB座一楼 ([email protected] )
Every Sunday
Eat: Barolo Seafood Sunday
Brunch at the ritz-carlton
Start your Sunday grazing the 5-star way with the Ritz-Carlton’s Barolo seafood
brunch – it certainly beats a fry-up or the remainder of the soggy pizza you
ordered the night before. The menu reads like a who’s who of deep sea superstars: scallop carpaccio, salmon caviar, Fine de Claire oysters, gratinated half
lobster, roasted sea bass with mussel stew. There’s even a sea urchin omelette
topped with salmon caviar. 5 star, indeed.
// Sundays, 11:30am-2pm; 2 courses: RMB 248per person, 3 courses: RMB308pp, 4 courses:
RMB338pp (includes free flow tea and coffee, free flow of Champagne Perrier Jouet Brut RMB
298pp) prices subject to 15% service; No.83A Jian Guo Lu, China Central Place, Chaoyang District
Drink: Chocolate Drinks
Calling all chocoholics: this month
the Westin Beijing Financial Street is
showcasing all different flavours of
hot chocolate drinks and they’re pretty
damn tasty.
// The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B,
Financial Street, Xicheng District 金融街威
斯汀大酒店, 西城区金融大街乙9号 (6629
7825, f&[email protected])
March 1
NIGHTLIFE
DJ: Santo Chino
Disco, funk, old school electro and
proto-house courtesy of Computer
Love, Pei Sun and friends.
Beijing Ducks
Mid-Season Report
All to play for as the season draws to a close
BY Andrew Chin
The Contenders
The CBA playoffs typically
start one week after the
regular season and follow
a best-of-five format for the
first two rounds before a
best-of-seven finals. Here’s
a quick look at the favorites
to lift the Mou Zuoyun Cup.
Guangdong
Southern
Tigers (1st,
22-3)
Last season’s MVP Yi
Jianlian (21.4 points and
13.3 rebounds per game)
leads a well-oiled team,
including three CBA All-Star
starters, who are heavy
favorites to win their eighth
title in 10 years.
Xinjiang
Flying Tigers
(2nd, 20-5)
A
s the Chinese Basketball
Association (CBA)
enters its All-Star break,
the Beijing Ducks remain the
league’s most potent wildcard.
The team currently sits tied for
third at 17-8 but have stumbled
in the new year, going 3-3 and
losing their last two. With 13
teams competing for eight
playoff spots, the next month
is going to be critical for the
Ducks.
It’s been a frustrating season
for the capital’s team. Two years
after their Cinderella run to
their lone CBA championship,
Beijing entered this season with
arguably their most talented
team yet.
Their championship core of
two-time NBA All-Star Stephon
Marbury and former New York
Knicks center Randolph Morris
were returning for their third
seasons with the club, with Sun
Yue, who plays guard for the
national team, newly recruited.
However, Marbury hasn’t played
since injuring his left meniscus
against Jiangsu in November and
still needs time to recover from
‘With 13 teams
competing for
eight playoff
spots, the next
month is going
to be critical for
the Ducks.’
knee surgery. Promising second
year forward Li Gun has been
limited to 13 games, one more
than former CBA Chinese scoring
champion Li Gen.
But victories this season can
be attributed to the brilliant
form of Morris, shaking off the
criticisms of a lackluster playoff
performance last year. While
Sun’s impressive all-around game
has strengthened his credentials
as the Chinese Magic Johnson.
The Monkey King (strangely,
Sun’s preferred nickname) has
led Beijing’s impressive roster
of young national talent. Three
of the team’s starters are under
25 and have provided key
contributions.
Despite their recent stumbles,
the Ducks are still in control of
their playoff destiny – but there’s
no denying February will be a
dogfight. They close out their
season with six games against
teams with similar playoff
aspirations and a prolonged
losing streak could see the team
tumbling out of contention.
With a bit of luck, though,
Beijing will enter the playoffs
with a much improved squad.
Marbury is expected to return
soon and while questions remain
about how the 36-year old guard
will look, his return will be a
big boost to the squad. Either
way, fans will be hoping for a
repeat of the thrilling 2012 CBA
championship victory, where the
Ducks edged out perpetual CBA
giants Guangdong in front of a
sold-out Wukesong Arena.
It’s been a return to
form for the perennial
Northwestern powerhouse
and its basketball crazed
owner. The team boasts
the league’s second
best defense and a solid
starting five including
Chinese backcourt Muhtar
Xirelijiang and Yang
Jingmin.
Shanghai
Sharks (5th,
16-9)
It’s been a surprising
season for Yao Ming’s
team. New recruits Quincy
Douby and Darnell Jackson
have combined with the
ageless Liu Wei to carry
the offensive load, while
center Max Zhang leads the
league in blocked shots.
// Beijing Ducks play Shandong (Feb 5), Tianjin
(Feb 9) and Fujian (Feb 14), 7.35pm, RMB801,500. Shougang Gymnasium, 159 Fushi Lu石
景山区阜石路159号 (400 818 3333, www.
t3.com.cn)
65
events
WEEKLY SPECIALS IN FOOD AND DRINK
Happy hours
Ladies’ nights
Meal deals
Brunch
monday to Friday
9pm-midnight, ladies get free mixed
drinks and RMB20 martinis.
S3-31, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli South, 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号
三里屯太古里3楼3层S3-31(6417 7794)
Mai Bar
Mondays, buy two
cocktails, get one
free.
40 Beiluoguxiang,
Dongcheng District东城区
北锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641)
The World of Suzie
Wong’s
9pm-12am, free drinks for girls.
Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500
3377)
Monday to friday
Agua
Vics
Mon-Fri, Agua’s new set lunch menu is
RMB118/person for 3 courses, including
a range of traditional Spanish dishes like
paella and slow-cooked eggs and sobrassada sausage and potatoes.
// RMB118/person, Mon-Fri, 12pm-2:30pm,
Agua Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun
Beilu, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北
路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)
Free drinks for ladies until midnight.
Inside the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北门内 (5293
0333)
Bar Blu
Free cocktails for ladies until midnight.
4/F-6/F Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Hou Jie,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯酒吧北街同里4层-6层
(6417 4124)
Greyhound Café
5pm -7pm, only RMB28 for a Tsingtao
or Bud ,and RMB38 for a Mojito or Dry
Martini.
// Greyhound Cafe (see listings for details)
Hidden Lounge
9pm-12am, free drinks
for ladies.
Room 101, Bldg 8,
CBD Apartments,
Shuanghuayuan Nanlier
Qu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区双花园南里二
区, CBD总部公寓, 8号楼101室
(8772 1613)
Monday to Saturday
Twilight
Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun,
RMB20 off cocktails.
0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39
Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District朝
阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室
(5900 5376)
Opus Terrace
Flamme
Every Tuesday 2-for-1
steak all day.
3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun
Taikooli, 19 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯路19号三里
屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)
Tuesday to Friday
S.T.A.Y Restaurant
Tuesday to Friday 11:30am-2:30pm Three
courses including coffee and tea for
RMB388/person with 15 percent service
charge.
Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29
Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District 海淀区紫竹院
路29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211-6727)
Mao Mao Chong
Wednesday 7-11pm,
cocktails RMB35.
12 Banchang Hutong,
Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城
区交道口南大街板厂胡
同12号 (6405 5718)
Black Sun Bar
Women get 2-for-1 cocktails, guys get 30
percent off beer.
Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝
66
WEEKEND BRUNCH AT NIAJO
The weather won't be getting warmer for a while, but that doesn't mean you
can't spend your Sunday mornings pretending to be basking in the heat of a
Catalan coastline, Don Quixote in hand – bucket of sangria well within reach.
Well, not quite, but we reckon a weekend brunch at Spanish restaurant Niajo
might be the next next thing. For RMB186 you've got a three course meal,
peppered with Iberian delights like Spanish pisto, seafood paella and veal tenderloin, as well as some starter tapas and a drink. Pay an extra RMB150 to go
free-flow on wine and beer. Vamos!
// Saturdays and Sundays, 12pm-3pm, Niajo, 3rd Floor, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园三层 (5208 6052)
阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909)
Elements
9pm-1am, free mojitos, champagne and
Cosmos.
58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工
体西门58号 (6551 2373)
Eudora Station
8pm-12am, ladies ordering food from
the ladies’ night menu receive free
drinks from the same menu.
6 Fangyuan Xi Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳
园西路6号 (6437 8331)
Four Corners
Buy two get one free martinis for
5-8pm, ladies enjoy free cocktails; on
Fridays, its Bachelors Night, where chaps
get 50 percent off beer and burgers for
the same times.
Daily 4pm-1am, Sun bunch 12-4pm, Opus
Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888)
Xian
9pm – 12pm all ladies can drink selected
martinis, cocktails and mixed drinks for
free! All with live music and Dj.
Xian Bar, EAST, Beijing - 1/F,22 Jiuxianqiao
Road, Chaoyang District
朝阳区酒仙桥22号北京东隅酒店一层
( 8414 9810)
XIU
women.
7 Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城
区大石杯胡同7号 (6401 7797)
Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, buy one get one free
on selected drinks.
6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianguomenwai
Street 北京柏悦酒店, 建国门外大街2号6
楼 ( 8567 1108)
Q Mex
Zeta Bar
Free margaritas for women.
4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体
北路4号 (6585 3828)
Starfish
4-11pm, ladies enjoy 3 Kumamoto oysters with a glass of Prosecco for RMB150.
22-1 Dongzhimen Outer Street, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416
5499)
The Stumble Inn
9pm-late, head upstairs to the “ladies’
only” section for free cocktails.
2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Chaoyang
District
朝阳区东方路1号希尔顿饭店2层(5865
5050)
Every day
The Big Smoke
Daily 4-7pm, 20 percent off all cocktails,
house wines and beers.
57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区幸福村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416
2683)
Blue Frog
Daily 4-8pm, buy one get one free all
drinks.
S4-30, 3/F, Building 4, Sanlitun Taikooli
South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳
区三里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区4号楼
3层S4-30 (6417 4030)
Centro
Daily 5-8pm, two for one deals.
1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Shangri-la's Kerry Centre
Hotel Beijing, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光
华路香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层
(6561 8833 ext. 42)
Chill
Daily 4-8pm, RMB10 off any beer.
2 Andingmen Xidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区安定门西大街2号 (6405 9575)
Cuju
Daily 6-9pm, buy one get one free draft
beer, mixed drinks and soft drinks.
28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城
区西管胡同28号 (6407 9782)
Eudora Station
Daily 4.30-7.30pm, buy one get one free
on all alcoholic drinks.
6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437 8331)
R Lounge
Selection of drinks
for free all night.
61 Dongsanhuan
Zhong Lu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4
层 (5863 8241)
One East
Sun 12-3pm,
American-style
set lunch from
RMB188, plus DIY
bloody mary bar for an
extra RMB98. Prices subject to
15 percent surcharge.
2/F, Hilton Hotel Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu,
North East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东三环北路东方路1号北
京希尔顿酒店2层 (5865 5030)
Qi
Sun 11.30am-2pm, all you can eat dim
sum including one double boiled soup
for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle of
Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two.
Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street,
1 Jin Cheng Fang Dong Jinrong Jie,
Xicheng District 西城区金城坊东金融街1
号 (6601 6666)
Senses and Prego
Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious
Champagne Brunch, international and
Flamme
cocktail, beers and wine by the glass
50% off from 3pm to 7:30pm daily.
S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli, 19 Gongti Beilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里
屯太古里南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608)
Modo Urban Deli
4-7pm cocktails, house wine RMB25, Beer
RMB15.
S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun Taikooli South,
19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三
里屯路19号三里屯太古里南区8号楼S1031 (6415 7207)
Mosto
6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine and
beer.
Nali Patio 3rd Floor, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号
那里花园 (5208 6030)
NOLA
3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on Pabst Blue
Ribbon, Tsingdao and all cocktails including Daiquiris.
A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街秀
水南街A-11 (8563 6215)
R Lounge
Daily 6-9pm, two for one standard drinks
and cocktails.
4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4
层 (5863 8112)
Asian specialties with free flow champagne, wines, cocktails, and juices for
RMB 458. prices subject to 15% service.
The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B
Financial Street, Xicheng District 西城区
金融大街乙9号(6629 7810)
Seasonal Tastes
Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for
RMB428-498 per person plus 15 percent
surcharge.
Westin Chaoyang., 7 North
Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东三环北路7号(5922 8880)
Sureño
Sunday lunchtime, 3 or 4 courses for
RMB298 or RMB328 with desserts,
Both include soft drinks and juices,
Champagne package is RMB200, cocktail
package is RMB150. Prices subject to 15
percent service charge.
Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District
朝阳区三里屯路11号1号楼 (6410 5240)
Vasco’s
Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet
with free-flow champagne for RMB458
plus 15 percent service charge.
Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8
Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng
District 东城区王府井东街8号(5812
8888 ext. 8411)
Saturday and Sunday
and vegetables each, varying daily. With
soup, appetiozer for RMB78. Curry sets
from RMB55-65
See Listings for details
Transit
Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one.
N4-36, Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District. 朝阳区三里屯路11号
三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Beijing Marriott Hotel
Daily 11.30-2pm, Complete with
dumplings,noodles,congee and dessert
favorites,including chilled fruit juice or
Chinese tea for RMB118. Sun and Sat
11.30-2pm, Dim Sum with a lobster and
unlimited beer for only RMB168.
26A Xiao Yun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区霄云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店
(5927 8888)
Union Bar and Grille
Daily 4-8pm, discount beer & cocktails.
3/F, Sanlitun Taikooli Bldg 5, 19 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号院
三里屯太古里5号3层S6-31单元 (6415
9117)
Zeta Bar
Daily 6-9pm, half price drinks.
Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu,Chaoyang District
朝阳区东方路1号希尔顿酒店(5865 5000
ext. 5050)
Vivid
Daily, 6pm-10pm, happy hour, buy-oneget-one-free for all wines and cocktails.
Vivid, Level 5, Conrad Beijing, 29 North
Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区东三环北路29号北京康莱德酒店5层
(6584 6310)
The Rug
A la carte brunch menu offered daily
from 10.30am-5pm, ranging from rmb48RMB138.
1/F, Bldg 4, lishui jiayuan, Chaoyang
Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼1楼(8550
2722)
Taverna
Daily 11am-2.30pm. Two courses and coffee/ tea for RMB78. Add a glass of wine
for RMB30 or dessert for RMB20.
Courtyard 4 ,Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District朝
阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8882)
Bene Restaurant
Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes antipasto with main course, pizza or pasta.
Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Dongcheng Beilu,
Dongcheng District 东城区北三环路36号
(5798 8888)
Transit
Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert
for RMB88.
N4-36/37 Sanlitun Taikooli North, 11 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号
三里屯太古里北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
Cafe Sambal
Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats
Agua
menu for RMB48, or add a cup of coffee
for RMB58.
LG51, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun Taikooli
North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯路11号三里屯太古里北区地下层51
(6417 0808)
Sat-Sun, Agua’s Sombresa Weekend
Brunch is RMB198 per person and
includes 5 tapas to share (portioned depending on party size) a main course and
one dessert. Add RMB98 for free flow
red or white sangria or Agua de Valencia
(cava + orange juice).
// 12pm-2:30pm (free flow until 3pm),
Agua, 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北路81
号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 6188)
Aroma
Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 percent
service charge.
Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jian Guo Road,
China Central Place, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国路83甲(5908 8161)
Café Sambal
Sat-Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal are rolling out weekend brunch with a rotating menu of Malaysian delicacies, like
Kapitan and Nasi Lamak. Three courses
plus coffee, tea or fruit punch.
43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie 旧
鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同43号 (6400 4875)
Colibri
Sat-Sun 9am-2pm, any dish from brunch
Enoterra
Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, a la carte brunch for
RMB75-130. Free-flow sparkling wine for
an extra RMB80.
4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu 朝阳
区三里屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号
(5208 6076)
Eudora Station
Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet with
one main and free-flow juice or coffee
for RMB98.
Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu.
Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路6号
(6437 8331)
Sui Yuan
Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for RMB128
plus 15 percent surcharge.
Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen
Waidajie, Xicheng District西城区广安门
外大街168 (6338 1999 ext. 1726)
Yi House
Sat-Sun International set menu for
RMB308.
Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1 706 Hou Jie,
Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District,
Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院
798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)
67
events
CITY SCENEs
Shock? Disgust? Overexcitement? Futility? All the classic Christmas emotions were on show at the Tiger Xmas Livehouse Crawl.
The dress code was “so far over the top it hurts” at the CICADA
Ultralounge Blanc Party.
Cheers to those cheekbones! Some fantastically good-looking
people grace us with their presence at RELEASE in UCCA, 798.
68
China Self Storage join the ISB Community Vendor Fair in welcoming
50 new families to the ISB community. CSS introduced its storage
services through banners and brochures and the two lovely ladies
pictured above.
Great Leap Brewing
celebrated three years in
Beijing with the Karl Long
challenge – can you keep
your shiort on all night?
Answer: no.
After successful competitions in 2007 and 2009, Yi He 42 Hot Yoga held its third Yoga competition last December at its Solana branch. 100
contestants took part in the competition and 70 won different awards. Professional instructor Tomasz from Absolute Yoga and the founder of Yi
He 42 Hot Yoga attended the event. 100 people doing hot yoga? That’s a looong queue for the shower.
Migas DJ rips it up, pulls silly face.
Some qipao wearing ladies propping up the bar at the launch of new
Sanlitun bar Parlor.
The Johnnie
Walker Whisky
House displays
some of its
most exclusive
whiskies. Too
exlusive for
backgrounds
that’s for damn
sure.
69
LISTINGS
Win a dinner
voucher for two
at Indian Kitchen.
Email prizes@
urbanatomy.com
‘Indian Kitchen’
Expensive...................................¥
Expense Account ....................¥¥
Recommended .........................*
Top Ten ....................................**
RESTAURANTS
THE HOT ONE HUNDRED
About This guide represents our editors’ top
100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing
advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been
personally reviewed by our experts, and
scored according to the cuisine, experience
and affordability.
29 Grill (Steak) *
Top-notch steak, along with just about every other cut of meat found in the barnyard
in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca.
// Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. 3/F Corad Beijing, 29
Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北
路9号1层 (6584 6270)
Ai Jiang Shan (Korean)
This upscale seafood restaurant proves that
chargrill and composure can go together.
Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute
bargain.
// Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until 9.30pm. 5/F, LG
Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 Jianguomenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子
座大厦东塔5层 (51096036/6037, for other locations
visit http://www.aijiangshan.com)
Agua ¥ (Spanish)
Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish
invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced
classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon.
// Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Patio, 81
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那
里花园 (5208 6188)
Alfie’s (British)
What’s all this about, then? British
gastropub classics, (like pukker fish and
chips, RMB188), a swanky gentleman’s club
interior, and located in a chic modern art
gallery-cum-mall. That’s what, mate.
// Daily, 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, brunch served on
weekends, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东大桥路9号芳草地L1-22 (5662 8777)
Dasha, Xingfucun Zhonglu (next to Frost Nails), Chaoyang
District 朝阳区幸福村中路(Frost旁边)(6417 5430)
Baoyuan Jiaoziwu (Chinese regional)
Famous for their rainbow of dyed dumplings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under
RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao
silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian
options and authentic Sichuan food.
// Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967)
Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) *
Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not
here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact,
meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the
Piedmont wine it is named after.
// Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz Carlton Hotel,
China Central Place, 83A Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国路甲83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店
内 (5908 8151) Beiluo Bread Bar (Cafés)
This local hipster café favorite offers inhouse baked bread and sandwiches but
we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles.
Gets cozy at night.
// Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng
District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近南锣鼓巷)
(8408 3069)
Bellagio (Taiwanese)
Where else can you carve through mountainous shaved ice desserts and suck down
creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite
among the city’s hip and young, this
swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best
enjoyed long after dark.
// 6 Gongti xilu Chaoyang District 6 号工体西路(6551
3533) See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn for more locations
Bene ¥(Italian) *
Chef Ricci will have you singing like a
soprano with his pork ravioli and prizewinning tiramisu. Excellent set menus
(RMB588) and extensive wine selection.
// Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton Beijing
Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring Road, Dongcheng
District 东城区北三环东路36号(5798 8995)
The Big Smoke (American)
Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and
upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full
menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie
chicken via Uncle Otis).
// Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am-10pm.
First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57
Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福
村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www.
uncle-otis.com)
Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) *
Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel)
and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta
has the Middle-East mid-range market all
wrapped up in a fluffy pitta.
// Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun
Houjie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961)
Indian Kitchen
Mango beats the Malady
Given the historical and cultural affinity between India and China, you’d
expect curry to be sold just about everywhere in China – yet somehow the
opposite is true: good curry is as rare in China as it is on Mars. Fortunately,
the ever brilliant Indian Kitchen is doing its best to change this sad state
of affairs. Easily Beijing’s best curry house, this Indian expat favorite has
expanded its menu to include regional delights such as the seriously delicious southern style Mango Chicken Curry (RMB60) and hearty Himalayan
classic, the Chickpea Vegetarian Curry (RMB48) – both of which are
guaranteed to help stave of the winter blues and remind you of summers
ahead.
// Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
三里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255)
70
Allday’s (Café)
Japanese-owned Allday’s is an oasis of
calm just outside the hustle and bustle of
Sanlitun. Plenty of options for a caffeine
boost compliment a wide range of Western
staples from the kitchen.
// Daily 7am-11pm, Unit 1, Tongguang Plaza, 12
Nongzhanguan South Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农
展馆南里12号通广大厦1楼底商 (6538 9488)
Aria ¥¥ (European) *
A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100
for the Wagyu beef and starters around
RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house
sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly.
// Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; SatSun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World Hotel, 1
Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国
门外大街1号中国大饭店2层 (6505 0828)
Back Alley Bistro (Contemporary Western)
There’s not enough of this in Beijing: a cozy
joint offering top-notch ‘California-style’
cuisine at bang-on price points. A fresh,
revolving menu has everything from burgers (RMB 45/65) to braised oxtail (RMB138)
to seared scallops (RMB148).
// Tues-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-11pm. West side of Jiezuo
Blue Frog (American)
This Shanghai hamburger franchise has
been keeping Americans in China obese
since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is
always packed.
// Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, S4 Tower, 81
Sanlitun Village, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
三里屯路三里屯Village三层S4 (6417 4030, for other
branches see www.bluefrog.com.cn)
Brasserie Flo ¥ ¥ (French) *
Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass
fittings establish the Parisian bona fides;
dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48
each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm.
The grandeur is matched only by the service, and the prices reflect the authenticity
of the experience.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 5135, www.flo.cn/brasserie/
restaurants/beijing)
Brian McKenna @The Courtyard ¥ ¥ (Contemporary Western) *
Innovative and creative dishes are de rigeur
at the Michelin-starred Irish chef’s reinvention of this long-standing Beijing fine
dining institution.
// Daily, restaurant 6pm-10pm, bar 5-11pm, 95
Donghuamen Avenue, Dongcheng District 东城区东华
门大街95号 (6526 8883)
Burger Bar (American)
Don’t be fooled by the American diner-style
interior, Burger Bar’s pedigree of bap
fillings include wagyu beef, foie gras and
truffles. Burger King this ain’t.
// Sun-Thu 11:30am-10pm, Fri/Sat 11:30am-midnight,
B2/F, Parkview Green, 9 Dongdaqiao Road 朝阳区东大
桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦地下二层 ( 5690 7000)
Café Ricci (Contemporary Western)
An excellent example of how Italian sensibilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese
context, Ricci offers a range of fusion creations, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia
(RMB45) and a spicy mocha coffee. It’s a
paradise for those with a sweet tooth, too.
// Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha Tower D, Bldg
8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 Zhongguancun Donglu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园
8号楼科技大厦D座1层 (8215 8826 http://riccicafe.com)
Café Zarah (Cafés)
Red armchairs, table candles and a matching
Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy,
minimalist interior of this cafe, popular with
young professionals. The Austrian-style
breakfast sets here are the real deal, while
Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about any
in town.
// Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 (8403 9807)
7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号
(6512 2277, ext. 6101)
Colibri (Cafés)
Its cheery, brightly lit veneer, spacious
seating and wide tables make it the
darling of the Macbook freelancer crowd.
While it serves a variety of standard café
fare, the main attraction are its wide
array of colorful delicious, generously
frosted,freshly-baked cupcakes.
// Sanlitun Village North11 Sanlitun Lu, Level LG51 (bet.
Dongzhimennei Dajie & Gongti Bei Lu) 朝阳区三里屯
路11号三里屯Village北区LG层51号 (6417 0808)
Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) *
Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the
moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim
restaurant. Eastern European and Central
Asian influences are evident throughout,
with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes
livening up traditional Chinese favorites.
// 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号
(6400-5281)
Da Dong (Chinese, Peking duck) *
Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da
Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijingstyle roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum
sauce is hard to follow.
// Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng
District 22号东四十条甲 (5169 0328 See www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily 11am-10pm)
Da Gui (Chinese Guizhou)
Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway.
Munch happily into pickled greens and
don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black
sesame balls. They’re sensational.
// Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong,
Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口大兴胡
同69号 (6407 1800)
Cafe Sambal (SE Asian)
When it comes to Malay-style food in a
hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly,
it’s something of a niche category, but then
so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitanstyle chicken is pricey, but worth it.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong (just east of
Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District西城区豆腐池胡同43
号旧鼓楼大街往东走(6400 4875)
Win a set dinner
voucher for two to
this restaurant.
[email protected] ‘Marriott
NE’
Dali Courtyard (Chinese Yunnan) *
If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll
have to trust the staff: there’s no menu,
it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard
setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the
rustic ingredients.
// Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong Dajie, 67
Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼
东大街小经厂胡同67号 (8404 1430)
Beijing Marriott northeast Hotel Indian
Feast in the Northeast
This Valentine’s Day, why not try something different? The first Indian eatery
in a 5-star hotel in Beijing, the Marriott Hotel Northeast’s curryhouse has
prepared a quite dazzling array of currys, kormas, biryianis and the like to
light your special day up.
Try its Sinful Sunday - an elaborate 4 course menu plus dessert, including
free flow champagne. On the menu are traditional entrees like butter chicken, lobster masala, kadai paneer; as well as some sweet and mouthwatering desserts like gulab jamun, and a selection of kulfis and ice creams.
A garlicy and aromatic curry might not seem like the best meal to share
with your partner on Valentine’s but, hey, this is the country that gave us the
Karma Sutra.
// RMB399/pp for brunch, includes champagne, wine cocktails and beer and 5 course
meal; RMB128 per child, includes soft drinks. Lunch, 11.30am-2.30pm; Dinner, 5.3010.30pm. Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast, 2 F, 26A Xiaoyun Lu, Chaoyang District 海航
大厦万豪酒店二层朝阳区霄云路甲26号 (5927 8328, www.marriottbeijingnortheast.com)
Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex)
Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+
imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the
walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a
bite of the custardy flan.
//Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S432 South Block, Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu,Chaoyang
District, 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区
(6416 5212)
Capital M (Contemporary Western) **
The Art Deco interior, swish staff and
breathtaking views over the archery towers
from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of
al-fresco dining, with world-class modern
European stylings and deliciously posh
afternoon tea. Our 2013 editor’s pick for
restaurant of the year.
// Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen Buxingjie,
Chongwen District 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702
2727, www.m-restaurantgroup.com/capitalm/home.html)
Cepe ¥ (Italian)
In a city inundated with Italian offerings,
Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s
attention to the smallest detail – everything
from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham
is import quality, and the wine is superb.
Consider it the culinary equivalent of a
finely tailored suit.
// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz-Carlton
Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Dongjie, Jinrong Jie,
Xicheng District
西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店
大堂 (6601 6666)
Chef Too ¥ (Contemporary Western)
With its crisp white tablecloths and service,
this upscale New York diner serves up some
of the classiest burgers in town.
// Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; Tue-Sat
5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West gate, Chaoyang Park,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676)
Chi (Western)
Hutong dining par-excellence, with organic
ingredients all locally sourced, from the
owners of neighboring Saffron.
// Daily, opens 10:30am, last order 9:30pm, 67 Wudaoying
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同67
号 (6445 7076)
Chuan Ban (Chinese Sichuan) *
This bright, modestly decorated dining hall
is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan
restaurant.
// Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50-9.30pm; Sat-Sun
Win a dinner
voucher for two
at Cafe Sambal.
Email: prizes@
urbanatomy.com
‘Cafe Sambal’
Din Tai Fung ¥ (Shanghainese)
This Taipei-based franchise impressed
Ken Hom enough to call it one of the best
10 eateries in the world, back in 1993.
Famous for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao or little steam buns. Book ahead,
there’s always a long wait.
// 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm Weekends 11.30am-10pm.
Yu Yang Branch (渔阳店): 24 Middle Street, Xinyuanxili,
Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区新源西里中街24
号 (近渔阳饭店) (6462 4502), Shin Kong Place Branch (
新光店): 6/F, Shin Kong Place, China Center, 87 Jianguo
Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区建国路87号
新光天地6楼D6001号 (西大望路口)(6533 1536),
Parkview Green Branch (芳草地店): LG2-20,B2 Floor,
No.9, Dongdaqiao Road, Chaoyang District,Beijing 朝阳
区东大桥路9号侨福芳草地大厦LG2楼 (近世贸天
阶(8562 6583), Xidan Branch (西单店): F1&B1, Grand
Pacific Mall No.133 Xidan North St.: Xicheng District,
Beijing 西城区西单北大街133号君太百货B1楼 (近
西单大悦城) (6615 9028), Modern Plaza Branch (当代
店): 7th Floor, Modern Plaza, No.40 Zhongguancun St.,
Haidian District, Beijing 海淀区中关村大街40号当代
商城7楼 (人民大学对面) (6269 6726)
Duck de Chine ¥ (Chinese, Peking duck) *
Good duck is meant to show your guests
how wonderful you are, as much as the
food. Duck De Chine does that in spades,
with fantastic presentation of its crispy,
succulent duck (RMB188).
// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4,
1949 The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881): 98 Jinbao Jie,
Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街98号 (6521 2221)
Ding Ding Xiang (Chinese hot pot) *
Classier than most hot-pot joints, Ding
Ding XIang features a spacious dining
OPEN DOOR
Café Sambal
New digs in Fuxingmen
Café Sambal – the original Malaysian hutong dining experience in the
capital– just celebrated it’s 11th birthday, and now it’s welcoming a little
brother to the world. Situated out in the wild west of Fuxingmen (where the
local dining scene got a recent boost after an impromptu visit from one Xi
Jinping), the new space (see above) is in keeping with the fusion of modern
and traditional South-east Asian stylings of the original in Gulou branch.
Get over there now to try their limited offer set lunch menus (RMB198 for
2 people, RMB388 for 4) which includes fresh Vietnamese spring rolls and
satay chicken to start, and Kapitan chicken curry and prawn sambal for the
main event. Classic Malaysian Tarik tea is included in the price, but they’re
not going to stop you ordering extra drinks off their wine or cocktail list. Even
at lunchtime.
// Daily, 10F North Bd. Parkson Department Store, #101 Fuxingmen Neidajie Xicheng
District Beijing 西城区复兴门内大街101号百盛购物中心北楼 10层 (6653 5120)
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listings
room of sweaty-faced patrons enjoying
high-grade huo guo in their own individual
pot. The delicious sesame sauce (the recipe
is a closely guarded secret) is a Beijing
classic.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International
Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie (opposite
East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District 东城区东直门外
东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际公寓2层 (6417 9289,
for other locations visit www.dingdingxiang.com.cn)
Drei Kronen 1308 (German) *
Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus
with a Filipino cover band can be) displays
of armour and brewing kits draw regular
evening crowds for the superb pork
knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles
(pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed
on-site, RMB48-108).
// Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, Gongti
Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路中国红街5
号楼1层(6503 5555)
El Gran Bocado (Mexican)
This unassuming little taquiera has a colorful menu of classic Mexican and Tex Mex
dishes, and one of the best nacho plates
we’ve had in Beijing.
// Daily 11am-midnight, 1/F, Just Make Bldg, Xingfucun
Zhonglu 幸福村中路杰作大厦1层 (6416 1715)
Element Fresh (Contemporary Western)
Another import from Shanggers, this is
boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching,
with somewhat questionable price tags.
The recent revamp also affected the latter.
// Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am-11pm. 833,
Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village South, Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village
南区8号楼833 (6417 1318)
Eudora Station
No need to mind the doors – this Lido
pitstop’s longevity tells you all you need
to know. An American-style restaurant-bar,
it caters comfortably for the local scene
with a pool table, sports TV, rooftop deck,
patio – did we mention the pool? Really,
this place is solid: great beer selection and
classic pub grub. Regular live bands keep
the weekends swinging.
// Daily, 11am-2am. 6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437 8331, www.eudorastation.
com)
Flamme (Contemporary Western) *
Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing.
Flamme (pronounced ‘Flom,’ apparently)
remains top value, however, especially on
2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an
eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail
menu.
// Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Fri-Sat.
S4-33, Third Floor, Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯VILLAGE南区3
层S4-33室 (6417 8608): 269 Indigo Mall, Jixianqiao Road,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场
269号 ( 8420 0270)
Four Corners (SE Asian)
Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his
celebrity TV work to host this part-Vietnamese venue, serving up steaming bowls
of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a
great bar.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 27 Dashibei Hutong (near west
end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng District 西城区大石碑胡
同27号烟袋斜街西口附近)((6401 7797)
Ganges (Indian)
Conveniently located above popular
Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid
Indian curry house provides the perfect
post-match culinary accompaniment. Or
put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving
after eight pints of beer.
// Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Dongzhimen Wai
Dajie, Chaoyang District
Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号2层
(6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北路13号世
贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181)
See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more locations.
Greyhound Café (Modern Thai/Fusion)
Greyhound Café originated in Bangkok offering Thai food with a twist and served in
72
a fashionable surrounds. Perfect for Tai Koo
Li Sanlitun then.
// Daily 11am-11pm, S1-30B, Building 1, Sanlitun Road 19,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号1号楼 S1-30B
(64163439, http://www.greyhoundcafe.com.hk)
Green T (Contemporary Chinese)
Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty
bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An
indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space
scattered with artistic curios, along side
a vegetable allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi,
wooden trestle table and 1,500-sqm villa.
The space has a design award by Wallpaper* magazine and came third in the Daily
Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants.
// Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang Village,
Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District朝阳区崔各庄乡合各
庄村318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8, 136 0113 7132, 136 0113
7232; www.green-t-house.com)
Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体东路2号
中国红街大厦4-103(8587 1255, 139 1141 5052)
Inagiku (Japanese)
This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s
oldest and most celebrated restaurants is
as near to perfection as you’re likely to find.
Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the
handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not to
be missed.
// Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Park Life,
Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国门外大街2号银泰中心悦生活3层315
室 (8517 2838)
Hatsune ¥ (Japanese)
Less a Japanese than a California roll joint,
Hatsune is now an old favorite among the
sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though
less so among sashimi purists.
// Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, Heqiao Bldg C,
8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路甲
8号和乔大厦C座2层 (6581 3939)
The Horizon (Contemporary Chinese)*
Kerry Hotel’s recently rennovated Chinese
restaurant has widened its predominantly
Cantonese and Sichuan horizons to include
dim sum, double-boiled soups and Peking
Duck – and the roast bird here really is
fabulous.
// Daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30pm-10pm 1/F, Beijing
Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu 光华路1号嘉里中心1
层 (8565 2188)
Home Plate BBQ (American) *
Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the
popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker
barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny
months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the
favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks,
but lesser dishes like the rib tips, sides
and burgers are just as good. Beer and
bourbons are taken care of, too.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard (20m north
of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first right), Chaoyang District
朝阳区霄云路35号院过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到
第一个路口右转(5128 5584)
Indian Kitchen (Indian)
The go to curry house among Beijing’s
homesick Indian community, this ever
popular no-nonsense restaurant has built
up a solid reputation thanks to its wide
range of quality dishes and particularly
friendly service. Looking good after a
recent rennovation.
// Daily 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-11pm, 2/F 2 Sanlitun
Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街2号
2楼 (6462 7255)
Isola Bar & Grill (Italian)
Isola’s elegant design, even by Tai Koo Li
North standards, is classic Italian panache –
and so is the food. Beef carpaccio, burrata,
Strozzapreti (handed twisted pasta) are
all fantastic, but just as good is a classic
Margherita pizza.
// Daily, 11:30am-10:30pm, N3-47, 3/F, Building 3, Taikoo
Li North, 11 Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
三里屯路11号院太古里北区N3-37和 47商铺 (www.
gaiagroup.com.hk/isola-beijing, [email protected]; 6416 3499)
Jade Garden (Chinese Shanghainese)
Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting.
Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck
(RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB
22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB
22) and more. Particularly convivial on the
weekends with Cantonese families gathering for dim-sum feasts.
// Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli, Chaoyangmenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外大街吉庆里6号
楼 (6552 8688, for other locations visit www.jade388.
com/su/index.aspx)
Jing Yaa Tang (Chinese, Peking Duck)
Resembling something between a nightclub and theater, the Opposite House’s
basement restaurant proves to be more
than just style over substance with their
range of classic dishes. Don’t ask about the
double A, though.
// Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite House, Sanlitun
Bei Lu 三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒B1楼
La Dolce Vita (Italian)
This long-standing, quality, and refreshingly
unpretentious Italian restaurant is a popular choice for young families. Wholesome
pasta dishes, well-crafted wood-fired pizzas
and a great range of dessert options come
as standard.
// Daily 10.30am-10.30pm, 8 Bei Xindong Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区新东路北段8号 (6468 2894)
Hyoki ¥ (Japanese)
Hidden away in the depths of the Sofitel
Hotel, this labyrinthine Japanese restaurant
of all private dining rooms has some
stunning food, and is the only place to
sample traditional Japanese paper hot pot
in Beijing.
// 6F Sofitel Wanda Beijing 100022 93 Jianguo Road,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区建国路93号索菲特万达北京酒店6层
(6581 0072)
Ibn Battouta (African)
Hidden away in the depths of Gongti, this
charming little Moroccan eatery serves up
superbly authentic north Africa fare at a
modest price. Known for its excellent, attentive service, and cosy atmosphere.
// Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-10pm. 4-103, China View, 2
Lost Heaven ¥ (Chinese / SE Asian)
An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this
menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia
passage, with a grandiose yet
dark teak interior.
// Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till 1am). Ch’ien
Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District 东
城区前门东大街23号(8516 2698)
Makye Ame (Tibetan)
Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine
consists of more than just yak-butter tea,
the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain
serves up nomadic classics such as curried
potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy
Xiushui location is great for winter.
// Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外秀水南街甲11
号, (6506 9616
Grill 79 (Contemporary Western) *
With views this good, Grill 79 would probably make it onto the list even if the food
was terrible. It’s something of a bonus
then that the kitchen is superb, and supported by one of the most extensive wine
lists in town.
// Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. 79/F, China
World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒
店79楼 (6505 2299 ext 6424)
Haidilao (Chinese hot pot)
Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s
got their own brand. Either way, the raw
meats and vegetables, cooked communally,
is divine, and the outstanding customer
service makes Haidilao a fitting church
// Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside No. 80
Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄路甲2
号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, for other locations visit
http://www.haidilaohuoguo.com)
Some of the best Happy Hour deals and
pub grub the Sanlitun bar district has to
offer. The staff are friendly, the barstaff are
skilled at cocktails and they even have a
24-hour delivery service.
// Daily 6pm-2am. 4 Gongti Bei Lu (opposite 1949 The
Hidden City), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院
机电研究院内 (6591 9525)
La Pizza (Italian)
At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is
this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a woodfired oven and Neapolitan manners.
// Sanlitun Branch: daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3
Mall, 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里
屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) //
Solana Branch: SA-48, 1/F, Bldg 3, Solana, 6 Chaoyang
Park Road 朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色港湾3号1层, SA-48
( 5905 6106)
Le Little Saigon (SE Asian)
Despite its odd obsession with Frenchoccupied South East Asia, this colonialthemed eatery is saved by its excellent beef
pho, select wine lists, and stunning rooftop
views. It’s a little bit good.
// Daily 11.30-midnight 141 Jiugulou Dajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区旧鼓楼大街141号(6401 8465)
The Local (American)
This does exactly what it says on the tin:
Mercante ¥ (Italian) *
Old World family charm in an intimate
hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally,
service) slows with a rustic menu from Bologna offering an assortment of homemade
pastas and seasonal mains.
// Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同4号 (8402 5098)
Middle 8th Restaurant (Yunnan) *
Make room for the mushrooms – especially the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip
and slightly swanky, without being pretentious, this is a celebration of all things
‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried
worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles,
beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild
herbs galore.
// The Place Branch: Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South
Tower, The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 1431,
Sanlitun, Tai Koo Li and Indigo Mall branch details see
www.middle8th.com)
Migas ¥ (Spanish) *
The boys at Migas have turned a concept
bar into a thriving Mediterranean restaurant, bar and party venue, and one of
summer’s rooftop destinations.
// Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花
园6层 (5208 6061)
Mio (Italian) ¥¥
Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with
a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight
to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts
a superb squash tortellini by hand, and
pampers diners with desserts like the
deconstructed tiramisu.
//Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner 5:30pm -10:30pm
Four Seasons Hotel, 48 Liang Ma Qiao Road, Chaoyang
District, 北京四季酒店亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区
(5695 8888)
Missa (Contemporary Western) *
Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of
meat or the long list of expertly made and
creative cocktails going down your gullet,
you can’t really go wrong at this refined
relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly
recommended
// Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun Village
North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯Village北区3号
楼3层32-33 (137 1851 7917)
Modo Urban Deli
(Contemporary Western)*
Yates Wine Lodge this is not. Unconventional and great fun, this compact eatery
was designed around an ever-changing
selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh
tapas style food and original finger foods.
The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for
picnics, with the smoked salmon and the
Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork
belly, is one of the best sarnies ever.
// Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. 3/F,
Sanlitun Village South(close to Element Fresh), 19 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
Village南区3楼(近新元素)
Moka Bros (Contemporary Western)
Power bowls, salads and wraps are the kind
of fare on offer at this trendy Nali Patio
space, which also has a great selection of
cakes and pastries if you’re feeling more
indulgent.
// Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am-11:30pm, B101b
Nali Patio South, 81 Sanlitun Beilu Chaoyang District 朝阳
区三里屯路81号B101b南楼 ( 5208 6079)
Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) *
Meat so tender the knife falls through it:
ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide
praise. Expensive, but where else are you
going to get steak this good? (Try the
RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash)
// Mon-Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-10pm. 2/F, Regent Hotel, 99
Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区金宝街99号丽晶
酒店二层 (6523 7777)
Mosto ¥ (Contemporary Western)
A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot,
thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for
modernising South American-style dishes
like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen.
// Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat noon-2.30pm,
6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208
6030)
Mr Shi’s Dumplings (Chinese Beijing) *
The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings,
they really don’t come better than this. Find
it and you’ll never go elsewhere.
// 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同74号 (8405 0399,
131 6100 3826)
Najia Xiaoguan (Chinese)
A hugely popular Manchu restaurant,
first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you
choose your dishes from a carved wooden
tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty
ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with
walnut. Reservations are required to get
a place in this two-storey, quintessentially
Imperial China restaurant.
// Daily 1130am-10pm. 10 Yonganli (south of
the LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle School),
Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国
门外大街永安里10号(双子座大厦南侧, 119中学
西侧)(6567 3663, 6568 6553)
NOLA (American)
N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in
the leafy embassy area, with a jazz soundtrack, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried
chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough
po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks,
craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA
a popular watering hole. Great service
comes as standard.
// Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. 11A
Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区秀水南街11
号 (8563 6215)
Niajo ¥ (Spanish)*
Order the paella (their star dish) together
with some tapas and be automatically
transported to Spain. With homely Mediterranean influences and a charming management, Niajo is a prefect option to enjoy a
pleasant meal at the heart of Sanlitun. Pro
tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal is also offered.
// Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园
3层 (5208 6052)
O’Steak (French)
A well-cooked steak in Beijng isn’t all that
rare anymore, and here we have affordable but quality cuts. Don’t be fooled by
the Irish sounding name, not a pint of
Guinness in sight.
// Daily midday-midnight, 55-7 Xingfucun Zhonglu,
Chaoyang District, 朝阳区幸福村中路55-7 (8488 8250)
Paulaner Brauhaus (German)
The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses,
Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the
hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the
provinces. It can be pricey but is usually
worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest.
// Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 Liangmaqiao
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路50号凯宾斯
基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. 5732)
Pinotage ¥ (South African) *
A seasonal blend of Dutch, English
and regional African influences, this
contemporary and stylish eatery has an
impressive selection of fine import-quality
meats, and wines to match. The traditional
borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is
tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork
tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to
Shunyi worth it.
// Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, 8
Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路8号三
里屯soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538/5785 3539) Mon - Fri.
11.30am - 2pm
5.30pm - 9pm Sat - Sun 11am - 10pm Bar open. Mon to
Sun. 4pm - 12am Inside Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang
Lu (near BD flower market ), Sunhe Township, Chaoyang
District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号创意园内(近北
东花卉市场)(84595868)
cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service
alone is worthy of worship.
// Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 Songzhusi Temple,
Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城区沙滩北街嵩
祝寺23号 (8400 2232, www.temple-restaurant.com/)
Purple Haze
Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches
and ladyboy bars, Purple Haze has to make
do for the best Thai experience in town.
Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls
(RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries
(RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood
pad Thai (RMB45).
// Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang District
朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 0899)
Sake Manzo (Japanese) **
The barmen here are serious about their
sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks
cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes
on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the
perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s
toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the
beer-marinated chicken is out of this world.
One of the very best and least appreciated
restaurants in town.
// Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Beisantiao,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北三条甲7号(6436
1608)
Raj (Indian)
Tucked away in musty old building just underneath the drum tower, this curryhouse
may look Chinese but everything on the
menu is authenticI Indian, espcially the
rather fine naan.
// Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-11pm, 31 Gulou Xidajie
Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼西大街31号 (64011675)
Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar¥¥ (Contemporary Western) *
The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at
this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled
cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus
start from around RMB428 and merrily
spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality
seafood and gorgeous desserts, too.
// Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. InterContinental
Beijing Financial Street, 11 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 西
城区金融街11号北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921)
Starfish ¥ (Seafood) *
Beijing’s leading oyster bar, Starfish is
among the very best seafood restaurants
in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm
atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant
is great for late-night dates, or just hanging
out along the large wooden bar and enjoying an Irish rock with a craft beer.
// 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直
门外大街22-1号(6416 5499)
Rumi (Middle Eastern)
Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty
Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful helpings of traditional Persian stews and tasty
kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab,
the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r.
// Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Ring Road
工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 (8454 3838)
Saveurs de Coree (Korean)
This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone
several changes in recent years, not least
its move away from the hipper-than-thou
confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately,
the menu remains largely intact. The Shin
Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while
the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too
good to be true.
// Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号(5741 5753)
Sherpa’s (Delivery)
OK. It is not technically a restaurant but
Sherpa’s is still an essential service: Your favourite restaurants delivered to you. Across
three cities, Beijing, Shanghai and Suzhou:
258 restaurants. 75,817 dishes ready to
order. Have whatever you want delivered
fast and fresh.
// www.sherpa.com.cn
South Memory (Chinese Sichuan)
This chain restaurant redefines Hunan
cuisine, with exquisite food and an elegant
atmosphere. The trademark shilixiang
niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse
yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and
meltingly tender frog dishes are among the
favorites with local gourmands.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian Plaza, 18
Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝外
大街18号丰联广场2楼230-232号 (6588 1797 for other
locations, visit www.southmemory.com)
Southern Barbarian (Chinese regional) *
Yunnan’s wide selection of savory, sour and
sweet, all in a smart hutong setting, with a
ton of beer selections to boot.
// Daily 11am-11pm. 107 Baochao Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同107号(6401
3318)
S.T.A.Y. (French)
Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred
chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen
concept, managed by the youthful team
of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’
executing the quarterly menus, and Florian
Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic
dishes usually include dishes such as steak,
foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and
grill for simple fine-dining.
// Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; Sundays 11am4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan
Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29号北京香格里拉饭店
(6841 2211, Ext. 6727)
Stuff’d (Western)
The concept of Stuff’d is to simply stuff
one kind of food in another. From sausage
calzone pizzas (RMB68) to scotch eggs – it
all works. On-site micro brewery a bonus.
// Wed-Mon, 11:30am-2:45pm, 6-10pm, 9 Jianchang
Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同9号
(6407 6308)
Sushi Yotsuba (Japanese)
It doesn’t come cheap (tasting menu
RMB1,000), but what would you expect
from some of the best sushi in town?
Buttery and meaty fatty tuna sashimi is a
cut above.
// Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang,
Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400
2699)
Susu (SE Asian)
The first step is finding it. Follow that up
with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, extensive wine list and a listing of top-notch
Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches,
stews, soups and la Vong fish.
// Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang Hutong Xixiang,
Dongcheng District 东城区钱粮胡同西巷10号 (8400
2699)
Taverna ¥ ¥ (Contemporary Western)
Slick service helps this faux-rustic lunchtime
favourite into our list, with typical dishes
including salmon steak, ribs and salads. Dependable, slightly dull even, but solid fare.
// Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1949 The Hidden City,
Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu , Chaoyang District 朝阳区工
体北路4号院 (6501 8882)
Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥ ¥
(Contemporary Western) **
Setting is everything here, especially if
it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist
temple. The bold contemporary European
Three Colours Lotus (Indian)
Three Colours Lotus’s team of chefs specialize in a northern Indian school of cooking,
and their menu is full of creamy curries
and succulent cuts of meat grilled in the
Tandoor oven.
// Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10:30pm, Xiu Shui 2, 14 Dong Da
Qiao Road, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号 (6586 5096)
Tim’s Texas BBQ (American)
Who is Tim, you ask, and what’s his Texas
BBQ doing in Beijing? Providing all ya’ll
homesick ‘Murricans with the best damn
home-style briskets, ribs and steaks –
slow-cooked over a mesquite wood BBQ
– this side of the Rio Grande. Tex Mex and
Margherita’s recommended, partner.
// Daily 9am-midnight, Silk#2 building, 14 Dongdaqiao
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东大桥路14号秀水2号
院 (6591 9161)
Tori Tei (Japanese)
Japanese izakaya-style pub and eatery
stocked with Japanese beers and sake. Its
specialty lies in grilled yakitori – chicken
skewers and other meat and veggie sticks.
Lively atmosphere and best in large groups.
//Daily 5:30pm-1am, 8 Xinyuanli Zhongjie, Chaoyang
District, 朝阳区新源里中街8号 (64614513)
Traktirr Pushkin (Russian)
By no means high-end, you visit Traktirr (or
its dearer cousin round the corner) for the
boisterous nighttime atmosphere and array
of Russian peasant fare: anything crockbaked is usually good, as is sharing a range
of starters. Plus: copious cheap vodka (and
suspicious homebrew).
// 10am-midnight. 1A Xiyangguan Hutong, Beizhongjie,
Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区东直
门内大街北中街西羊管胡同甲1号 (6403 1690)
Transit ¥¥ (Chinese Sichuan) *
Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and
its equally hot girls. While the latter are up
to you, the creative minds at Transit have
made some fiery additions to the classical,
chili-thumping canon, and they will charge
you for that knowledge. But unlike many
equally expensive joints, this is high-end
Chinese dining at its best.
// Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun Village
North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
路11号三里屯Village北区N4-36号 (6417 9090)
The Rug (Café)*
With ingredients supplied by local organic
farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an
emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang
Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is
a hit with green types, bored foreign moms
and freelance Macbook types.
// 7.30pm - 11pm Daily. Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Chaoyang
Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite Chaoyang Park South Gate),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号
楼(朝阳公园南门对面)(8550 2722)
Tube Station
Nowhere does gigantic toppen-laden pizza
73
listings
quite like Beijing, and these guys claim to be
the biggest in town.
// Sanlitun 3.3 Branch: Mon-Fri 10am-10pm, Sat/Sun
10am-11pm, delivery Mon-Thu 11:30am-10:30pm, FriSun 11:30am-11pm 3/F, 3.3 Building, No. 33 Sanlitun
Road, Chaoyang District 三里屯北街33号3.3服装大厦
3层3008号 ( 5136 5571, delivery 8989 177) Additional
branches in Gongti, Beida, Beitai, Yayancun, Solana and
Weigongcun, see
www.tubestationpizza.com.cn for details)
Union Bar and Grill (American)
The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Union’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict
to baby back ribs – covers all bases and
hours, served by friendly staff. The warm
atmosphere tempts many to stay all day.
// Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am-midnight. S6-31,
3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里屯
Village南区6号楼3层S6-31(6415 9117)
Veggie Table (Vegetarian) *
Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine
is by no means the exclusive preserve of
Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson
fans, this superbly honed eatery offers some
of the very best sandwiches – vegetarian or
otherwise – found anywhere in the city.
// Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order 10.30pm) 19
Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营
胡同19号. (6446 2073)
Vineyard Cafe on the River (British)
New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the
Liangma River. Menu features British classics
like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The
breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the
handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms.
//Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am kitchen closes
at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm 6pm-12am, Liangmahe
Nanlu, west side of Xindong Lu, across the street from
Yuyang Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区亮马河南路
新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335)
Wagas (Contemporary Western)
Quality eats with minimal pretension. This
stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element
Fresh offers some of the best and most affordable Western lunch options in town. The
zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a crowd
pleaser.
// Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 South
Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
Village南区三层 (6416-5829)
White Nights (Russian)
You certainly don’t go to White Nights for
the service. Or for the food. Or the tiny
helpings. But people do go. Oh yes – it’s for
the cheap booze.
// Daily 11am-midnight. 13A Beizhong Jie (off
Dongzhimennei Dajie), Dongcheng District 东城区东直
门内大街北中街甲13号 (8402 9595)
The Woods (American) *
New York native-owned, Manhattan-style
restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrapers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple
than that.
// Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Suite 101,
No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新城国际1号搂
101 (6533 6380)
Xiangmanlou (Chinese regional)
Xiangmanlou is little-known among the
expat community, but many Beijingers
say it has the best duck in town. The
restaurant looks like a New York diner
from the outside, and the booth seating by
the window adds to that. However, Xiang
serves traditional duck, with all the fixings,
like pancakes (thin but with the chewy
resistance that is key) and deliciously fresh
accoutrements. At RMB118 for a whole bird
(with condiments), it’s also a steal. Large
portions of genuine, Shandong-style food
are also available.
// Daily 11am-4.20pm,4.50pm-10pm. Xinyuan Xili
Zhongjie (opposite Yuyang Hotel), Chaoyang District 朝
阳区新源西里中街(渔阳饭店斜对面) (6460 6711)
Daily 10am-10pm Chaoyang Park West Gate, near No.8
Hot Spring 朝阳区农展南路1号朝阳公园西门(近八
号公馆) (65950969)
Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) *
Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant
serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers
around, matched by enormous servings of
dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and
pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy
tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang).
Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm)
feature live music and belly dancers with
snakes – you might find yourself dragged
on-stage to join in.
// Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun alley,
opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面幸福一村7巷
内 (6415 5741)
Wu Li Xiang (Chinese regional) *
Impressive views don’t detract from the
exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam,
especially the famous dim sum. Swanky
classics from all the main culinary regions of
China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong,
including “Monk Jump Over the Wall,”
braised pork in oyster sauce.
// Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Upper East
Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上东盛贸饭店二三
层 (5907 8406)
74
selection of rums and beers lure a more sophisticated set. It’s popular with the owner’s
friends but all are welcome.
// 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie
细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782)
Apothecary ¥ *
Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy
bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff have
made the Japanese-style Apothecary bar a
divisive choice to visit. See for yourself: they
also serve quality Cajun food.
// Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, Nali Patio,
81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040)
d.Lounge ¥ *
The fancy spelling tells you all you need to
know about this chic cocktail lounge in a
stunning archway location. Great on school
nights, this place can become horribly busy
at weekend.
// Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu (opposite
the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体
北路4号 (6593 7710)
Atmosphere ¥¥
Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of
the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+
swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-degree views of the 700AQI PM2.5.
// Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon-4am. 80/F,
China World Summit Wing, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号北京国
贸大酒店80 (6505 2299 ext. 6433)
Dada *
It hasn’t been on the Beijing scene for
too long, but already Dada is the hippest
hangout in town. Their cosy Gulou confines
under rock house Temple offer an intimate
place to nod along to an eclectic range of
all things electro from the best names on
the underground scene.
// Daily, 9pm-late, Rm 101, Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong
Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B
栋101室 (1108 0818)
The Bar *
This relative newcomer (sometimes known
as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind
it, meaning you can absolutely trust the
cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and
his brother offer sterling service, while the
décor is handsome and low-key.
// Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel, (100m
west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoyang District 朝阳区北三
里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大厦西侧) (6415 9954)
Yi House (Contemporary Western)
Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art
District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is
bettered only by their wide range of cocktail
concoctions. Sundays offer jazz brunches
with lobster and champagne. Our 2013
readers’ choice for Restaurant of the Year.
// Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798
Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒
仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后街1号 (6436 1818)
The Bar at Migas ¥
A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, rather
than a drinks destination, TBAM, as no one
calls it, focuses on upscale local DJs to get
the party started. Good-enough cocktails
range from RM55-70 but mostly it’s about
the music, man.
// Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to Friday
6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路81号
Yu Xin (Chinese Sichuan)
Open since 1993, Yu Xin has a loyal fanbase
through consistently offers authentic
Sichuan dishes. Their liangfen – a jelly-like
substance cut into chunky strips and dressed
in an addictive spicy sauce – hits the spot.
Also not to be missed are koushui ji, mouthwatering cold chicken, and shuizhu niurou,
fiery boiled beef slices. Enjoy its rustic,
intimate setting of bamboo cubicles and
swift, friendly service.
// Daily 11am-10pm. 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5号 (6415 8168 for
other locations, visit www.yuxin1997.com)
Black Sun
There’s not a lot of choice for locals around
the Chaoyang Park area. With darts, pool,
food and pub quiz, Black Sun is probably
the best, though a depressing air does
occasionally pervade. A recent change of
management has helped this.
// Daily 5.30pm-3am. Chaoyang Park West Gate,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909)
Yue Lu Mountain House (Chinese)
Another brainchild of the artist Fang Lijun,
the mastermind behind South Silk Road,
Hunan-style cuisine (e.g. duojiao yutao,
fish head with pickled chili; hongshao rou,
braised fatty pork; lei qiezi, a cold, stone
bowl of refreshing mashed eggplant) in a
classical Chinese room with a nice view of
Lotus Lane and Qianhai.
// Daily 11am-11pm. 51-10 Di’anmen Xidajie, in Lotus
Lane, Xicheng District 西城区地安门西大街51-10号
天荷坊内 (6617 2696). Also, Sat-Wed 11am-2.30pm,
5-10.30pm; Thu-Fri 11am-3pm, 5-10.30pm Opposite
Gongti 100, Bldg 1, Jiqingli, Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区工体西路吉庆里1号楼(工体100对
面) (6551 0806)
Yun’er Small Town (Yunnanese)
Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang.
Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs
with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp,
and banana leaf wrapped bolete mushrooms will keep us crawling back.
// Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng
District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 (8404 2407)
Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese)
Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with
Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its
crabmeat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs
(RMB62) for a bit of Adam action.
Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469
S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun(on the third floor of i.t shop)
朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层S1-30a
号商铺
real gems make up an ever-growing collection. Draft Kirin goes for a reasonable
RMB25 a glass.
// Daily, 1pm-2am, 49 Jiaodaokou Nandajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区交道口南大街49号 (159 1025 6538))
Yuxiang Renjia (Chinese Sichuan)
Most branches maintain simple decorations,
with black-and-white photos of traditional
houses, river towns in the south, and strings
of dried red chilis and garlic hanging on the
wall. So, too, is their menu: old-fashion and
reliably good. The lazi ji is crispy but not
too greasy, the pepper-sauce noodle, with
spinach, is filling and refreshing. Assorted
confections are guaranteed to offer comfort
to numbed-and-burned tongues, too.
// Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha (Union
Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区朝阳门外大街20号联合大厦五层 (6588 3841
for other locations visit www.yuxiangrenjia.com
The Brick
A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll
find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in-the
brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails (including
the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Terminator) are probably needed for the bizarre
Wednesday pub quiz.
// Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi Jiaozi, 31
Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of Shuangjing Qiao),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区双井桥东北角广渠路31号
院天之骄子2号楼底商2-11 (134 2616 6677)
Drum and Bell 鼓钟咖啡馆
The location of this rooftop hutong bar,
in the historic (and threatened) Gulou
neighbourhood, makes it a great place to
hang out with a cool one and watch the
day go by.
// Daily 1pm-2am. 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区钟楼湾胡同41号 (8403 3600)
El Nido *
The first hutong hang-out to patent the
fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El
Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly
in summer. The roast leg of mutton place
next door is one of the best locally.
// Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng District
东城区方家胡同50号(158 1038 2089)
Enoterra
Looking for an affordable glass of wine with
that date? Look no further than Nali Patio’s
wine center. Although the food leaves a bit
to be desired, the selections are vast, and if
anything, you can enjoy a nice cheese plate
with that tart glass of vino.
// Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园
D405室 (5208 6076)
Centro ¥
Although it’s no longer quite the go-to place
for beautiful people it once was, Centro still
draws a cute crowd with its nightly jazz performaces, spacious and recently renovated
lounge areas and classic drinks like the
blue-cheese martini.
// Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路1号北京嘉里大饭
店1层 (6561 8833)
China Bar ¥¥
Top views from the 65th floor and flash
drinks are the attractions on offer at this
hip hotel bar.
// Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, Park Hyatt,
2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国
门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 (8567 1838/40)
Chocolate ¥
It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate without
mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, cabaret
dancers and oddly-friendly Russian women.
Timed right, a visit can be raucous fun, with
bottles of spirits from around RMB200,
cocktails under RMB50 (including the
absinthe-based Flaming Armageddon)
and regular floor shows. Best to avoid this
cavernous slice of underground kitsch after
midnight, though.
// Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988)
About This guide represents our editors’ top
50 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing advertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally
reviewed by our experts, and scored according to pours, experience and affordability.
CICADA Ultralounge ¥
The latest – and perhaps only – ultralounge
in Beijing is fast becoming one of Sanlitun’s
trendiest bars. A Shanghai style lounge bar
with mixology credentials, the Whisky Sours
and Smoky Havana’s are worth the cost.
// Mon-Sat, 6pm-late, 11 Sanlitun Road, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区
N4-33 (6418 9898)
8-Bit
Drinking alongside multiplayer retro gaming – why didn’t anyone do this sooner?
Megadrive, Super Nintendo, N64... some
Cuju *
This tiny sports bar is frequently packed
with NFL fans but don’t expect rowdy jocks.
Great Moroccan food and a connoisseur’s
TOP 50 BARS AND CLUBS
The Den 敦煌
At the opposite end of the 24-hour drinking
spectrum from Centro, The Den is a seedy
sports joint that starts off sedate and
grows steadily sadder as night turns to day.
It can get rough and ready come dawn.
Solid (cheap) menu, good location and
those opening times earn it a place.
// Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边
Address: Gongti Dongmen 10-11, behind the
secret door inside Stadium Dog (6593 8227)
Fubar
Slightly past its prime, this basement
bar is trying to rediscover the speakeasy
pretence that made the place its name.
Live lounge music and a vast amount of
pours are starting to persuade people it’s
succeeding.
// 6pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 6pm-4am Friday
and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District,
Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工体北路8号工人
体育场东门内 (6593 8227)
First Floor
First Floor is like that friend who’s too
popular to properly enjoy their company.
At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with
regulars and the passing tourist trade all
baying at the bar. A good place to meet new
friends, perhaps.
// Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 0587, first.
floorbeijing.com)
Glen ¥
Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve
endured poor service and drinks that are
scandalous at the price), which is located
in a decidedly downbeat compound. But
whisky lovers have been known to swear
by its selections and dark, intimate atmosphere. See for yourself.
// 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites Hotel Beijing, 16
Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路
16号泰悦豪庭2楼203室 (6591 1191) Glen Classic ¥
Tucked away in the grounds of Face hotel,
Glen Classic is a Japanese-owned whisky
bar where discerning drinkers can sink
into an arm-chair, glass in hand, and while
away the hours. Huge range of whiskies
and rums are personally selected by expert
owner Daiki Kanetaka – let him recommend you something special.
// Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum
spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号
(6551 6788)
Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ *
The bar that began the whole Beijing
microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) specializes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews
(RMB25-40) with intriguing flavors – their
Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably
good. Reservations used to be recommended for their original hutong brewhouse, but
the opening of a wildly popular new pub
on Xinzhong Lu has shifted most drinkers
there instead.
// Gulou: 5pm-late, Tue-Fri, 2pm-late Sat-Sun 2-10pm, 6
DouJiao Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同
6号 (5717 1399)
//Sanlitun: Daily 11:30am-2pm; Sun-Thu 5pm-midnight,
Fri /Sat 5pm-1am, B12 Xinzhong Street 新中街乙12号 (
6416-6887, www.greatleapbrewing.com)
Heaven Supermarket
A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedraggled English teachers, Heaven sells the
cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You
can also hang around and appreciate the
afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the
food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen.
// Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to The James
Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路16号 (6415
6513)
Hidden Lounge *
Although frustrating to find, Hidden
Lounge rewards the intrepid with good artwork and comfortable seating, suggesting
a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great
prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix
drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have
to call them to find it, though.
// Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments,
Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区双
花园南里二区CBD公寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613)
Ichikura ¥
One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town,
this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind
a theater also offers terrific cocktails.
Although less expensive than several rivals,
you’ll want to indulge.
// Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36
Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北
路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107)
The Irish Volunteer
Everything – from the red-faced owner to
the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged
with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken
regret. A good place to down a pint and a
pizza before heading into town, then.
// Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite Lido Hotel
East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台路311
号 (6438 5581)
The James Joyce *
With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce,
the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone craving an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e.
without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks).
// Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区新东路14号 (6415 9125)
Jane’s & Hooch ¥ *
Acclaimed by some foreign press as one
of the best bars in the world (cough), this
not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard
of the South Sanlitun gentrification.
It serves RMB60-80 measures of your
favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a
fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with attentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails.
The drawbacks? Weekends can be horriblky
busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of
house rules marring the menu.
// Daily 8pm-2am, Courtyard 4 Gongti Beilu, 工体北路4
号院 ( 6503 2757)
Lantern *
Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture
Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the
strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars
known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its music, it also makes good drinks and attracts
international electronica DJs.
// Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of Worker’s
Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育
场西门向北100米(139 119 77989)
The Local *
Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has
come into its own, with large (yet strangely
unobtrusive) screenings of sports and political events, a pub quiz, quality fare and
a nice selection of draughts and cocktails.
Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t
need another.
// See Hot 100 Restaurants for details.
Lucky Man ¥ *
The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou
whisky bar as one of the smartest to satisfy your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’
// Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie, Dongcheng
District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 (6405 4167)
Luga’s
The closest Beijing has to a municipal
drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has
it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian,
a busy pool table, loud music, smoke,
400 flatscreen TVs all showing different
sports… yet still we like it (sort of). Basement bar Taps provides a German-themed
refuge, with serve-your-own draught
Paulaner and quality food.
// Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号2层 (6416 2575)
Maggie’s ¥
A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of
course, to the hot-dog stand outside),
Maggie’s has been providing its special
comforts for so long, it’s practically a timehonored Beijing brand – although it’s also
a bastion of Mongolian culture.
// Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan Park
South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛公园南
门 (8562 8142)
Mao Mao Chong **
The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sublime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorninfused vodka drink that’s a long way from
Moscow – are unique infusions using local
ingredients and know-how. Grungey without
being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while
still keeping it real. And those pizzas.
// 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District
东城区交道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 5718,
www.maomaochongbeijing.com)
Mesh ¥
Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a
late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior
and underground soundtrack draws the
bright young things (and on LGBT Thursdays, quite a few old things, too).
// Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼 (6417 6688)
Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ *
The hipsters love this little brasseriethemed absinthe bar. Regular live shows
mean it can often get pretty crowded. That
should piss off the hipsters, yet still they
keep coming.
// Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao Hutong,
Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同44
号(136 9142 5744)
Paddy O’Shea’s
Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire
Irish theme pub, including residents, from
a council estate in Limerick and gently
deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty
going on, including pub quiz and sports,
no one seems to have noticed.
// Dongzhimen: Daily 10am-late, 28 Dongzhimenwai
Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号
(6415 6389)
// Sanlitun: 2/F, Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Back Street 三里
屯北路43号同里二层 (6415 0299)
Propaganda
This sweaty student sauna is either the
best place in Wudaokou (if you’re a Korean
student, or like to pick up said students)
or some kind of fresh Circle of Hell (if
you’re anyone else). Fake booze (and fake
orgasms) abound.
// Mon-Fri 8pm-4.30am, Sat-Sun 8pm-5am. 100m north
of the east gate of Huaqing Jiayuan, Wudaokou, Haidian
District 海淀区五道口华清嘉园东门往北100米
(8286 3991)
Q Bar ¥
Atop one of the city’s most average-looking
hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly
oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for
your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace
is one of the main lures, so in winter, you
may want to look elsewhere.
// Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn Hotel, 6
Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of Sanlitun Nanlu),
Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家庄6号朝阳门医院北门
东100米三里屯南路逸羽连锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239,
www.qbarbeijing.com)
Revolution *
Sanlitun doesnt really do hipster bars but
if it did, this cramped ode to Maomorabilia
would be it. The East may be red but their
cocktails (RMB45) are fit for a Chairman.
// Daily, 12pm-late, west of Yashow, Gongti Bei Lu, 朝阳
区工体北路雅秀市场西侧 (6415 8776)
Salud 老伍 *
A Nanluoguxiang institution, with every-
thing from cheap beer to (loud) live music
and low beams. The rum infusions are a
particular favorite on cold nights. Latest
branch in WDK a welcome addition to surrouding student dives.
// NLGX: Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66
Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南锣鼓巷
66号 (6402 5086)
// Wudaokou: 2/F, Qijixin Building, Zhanchunyuan Xilu 展
春园西路奇蓟鑫大厦南侧2层
School Bar
Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled
fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this
alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by
Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers.
// Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 (6402 8881)
Slow Boat Brewery Taproom *
This popular microbrewery finally got its
own comfortable location in Dongcheng’s
hutong district. Quality ales (such as the
vanilla stout (RMB55) or crisp Dragon Boat
Ale (RMB25), heated floors and a kitchen
round out the deal.The burger-and-sua
// Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 4pm-12am, Thur-Fri: 5pm-1am,
Sat: 2pm-late, Sun: 2-10pm. 56 Dongsi Batiao,Dongcheng
District 东城区东四八条56号 (6538 5537)
Smuggler’s
The high (or make that low) watermark
among the ailing dive-bar scene of Sanlitun, Smuggler’s caters to a rambunctious,
friendly crowd of scallywags, rapscallions
and ragamuffins. Don’t drink too many
of their spirits; do ask why the men’s
bathroom hasn’t been fixed in three
f*cking years.
// 8pm-late. 43 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区
三里屯后街43号 (138 0107 1230)
The Tree 隐蔽的树
A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene,
you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer
aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere.
Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the
Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and
Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors).
// Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar Street,
Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯
酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三里屯医院东
面 (6415 1954)
Twilight ¥ *
A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay
Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and
those premium cocktails, this Japanese
whisky bar makes you feel as far away
from the busy boulevards whizzing below
as you’d want.
// Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三
环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
XIU ¥¥
While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts
the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved
among aspirational white-collar Chinese,
wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and playboy clientele. A lively house band keeps
you indoors, but a superb terrace backons
you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drinking venue in the summer.
// Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai SOHO,
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三
环中路39号建外SOHO东区5号别墅3层 (5900 5376)
10 Best Livehouses
2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 *
Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire
trap. That place by the drive-through. But
there’s no denying that this artsy alternative venue has its fingers on an eclectic
musical pulse. In summer, it really comes
alive with barbecue pits, all-day parties
and a whole lotta love.
// Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu (inside the drive-in
movie theater park), Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路
21号 (6436 8998,www.2kolegas.com)
Hot Cat Club 热力猫
A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot
Cat is the type of hard-working venue that
helps cement a city’s music scene. From
Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful openmic nights, this everyman’s club breeds
good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy
seats and plenty of space.
// Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just south of
Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同46
号(6400 7868).
Jianghu 江湖酒吧
This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home
is exactly where you’d take that friend from
out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy
atmosphere is also its downfall – any show
with under 40 people and you’re stuck
looking through the windows. Hip and
casually familiar, the jazz and folk bookings keep things low-key enough for the
get-home-for-the-babysitter crowd.
// 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Dajie,
Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街东棉花
胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/jianghujiubar,
[email protected])
Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍
Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this
former warehouse plays host to a Silk
Road smorgasbord of musical encounters
from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget
the overpriced bar and come for the killer
sound, comfortable wraparound balcony
and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime,
followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang
restaurant upstairs.
// Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术工厂院内(5205 1113,
www.mako001.com)
Mao Livehouse
From the denim-jacketed doorman to the
well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every
Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling
scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar
in town, Mao delivers with great sound
and the best billings of heavy metal, punk
hitting this side of the Drum Tower.
// 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓
楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www.maolive.com)
The Post Mountain 后山
Built into a man-made hill in the center of
the MOMA Complex, this new addition to
Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The
Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much
vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its
imported sound system and ramped floor
makes for decent sound and sightlines.
Almost exclusively featuring Chinese rock,
folk and electronic artists you’ve never
heard of (but should).
// Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongzhimenwai,
Dongcheng District (next to MOMA Cinemateque) 东城
区东直门外香河园路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百
老汇电影中心北侧 (8400 4774)
Temple *
Probably the manliest venue in town, this
dimly lit and unventilated space is owned
by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement
Burger) and known for late sets of hard
rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs
and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long
drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis
and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to
the RMB15 draught. When the smoking
gets fierce, head to the spacious terrace
for a big drag of bad air.
// Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie,
Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街206号B楼
202 (131 6107 0713)
XP 小萍
From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary
D-22, rises the brave new experimental
club XP. Operated and owned by former
D-22 main man (and noted economist)
Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde
than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic
projections, drone-core jazz and the latest
in cutting-edge Beijing sound.
// 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just south of
Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城区地安门内大街
四楼巷 (6406 9947)
Yugong Yishan 愚公移山
We’ve lost more body weight than we’d
care to remember in YY’s mosh pit.
Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually
hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie
outfits from across the globe – were worth
it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from
the sweat glands below.
// Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m west of
Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), Dongcheng District 东
城区张自忠路3-2号(6404 2711)
Zajia Lab 杂家
A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d
expect an Italian Sinologist to open a
venue – big on film screenings, A/V projects, avant-garde puppetry and choice but
obscure live music for the adventurous.
// Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong, Dongcheng
District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同宏恩观前殿
(156 0112 2252, 8404 9141, www.zajia.cc)
GALLERIES
798 Art District Picks
Galleria Continua *
In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua
is the international gallery. Their warehouse space is a forum for high-caliber artists from nearly every continent, including
several of China’s artistic nobility.
// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, 2
Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号
798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.
com)
Pace Beijing
With locations in New York, London and
Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xiaogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg,
Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt,
Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798
is idealized for. Go there!
// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao
75
listings
Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号大山子艺
术区 (5978 9781, www.pacegallery.com)
Space Station
Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites,
Space Station presents a younger generation of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend
to have a good curatorial understanding of
space and high-quality 2D work.
// Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Rd798 Art
District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺
术区中一街 (5978 9671)
Tang Contemporary Art
Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installation and curatorial theory. With locations
in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang
focuses on promoting artistic exchange
throughout East Asia.
// Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 Jiuxianqiao
Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大山子酒仙桥路798
工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 9610, www.atngcontemporary.com)
Ullens Center for Contemporary Art
Filling the largest factory space in 798 with
Chinese and international art, the UCCA
has the curatorial power and financial
backing to put together some of Beijing’s
most impressive exhibitions.
// RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. 798 Art
District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙
桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 0200, www.ucca.org.cn)
Caochangdi Art Village
Chambers Fine Art Beijing
With its compeer gallery in New York,
Chambers is a matriarch with extensive
roots in the local-studio scene that allows
Big Apple headhunters to cull next generation avant-garde and provide a stepping
stone to international recognition.
// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, Caochangdi,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地红一号D座 (5127
3298, www.chambersfineart.com)
Galerie Urs Meile
Recently upgrading to one of the courtyards designed by artist-architect Ai
Weiwei, this Swiss-owned gallery has two
intimate spaces, allowing pairs of solo
exhibitions from leading contemporary
Chinese artists.
// Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6.30pm. 104 Caochangdi, Cui
Gezhuang Xiang, Chaoyang District 朝阳区崔各庄草
场地村104号(近电影博物馆路)(6433 3393, www.
galerieursmeile.com)
White Space Beijing
There are no restricting on the art this
gallery supports, leading to some of the
area’s more perplexing exhibitions. Always
fun and on the pulse of vitality, though
empirical value is pushed to an extreme.
// Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, Airport
Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区机场辅路草场
地255号(8456 2054, www.whitespace-beijing.com)
Citywide Picks
Arrow Factory
This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an
independently run alternative space in the
hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young,
experimental artists, Arrow only takes up
about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As
a backlash against artists being pushed
outside the city limits, this space tries to
reinstall art inside an urban setting so
everyday experience and creativity remain
intertwined.
// Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang Hutong,
Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38号 (www.arrowfactory.org.cn)
CAFA Museum
Attached to the northeast corner of the
Central Academy of Fine Art, architect
Arata Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to
house the museum’s 13,000+ collection
of modern to contemporary art. Opened in
2008, exhibitions range from Chinese Modern masterworks to current avant-garde
experimental.
// RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8 Huajiadi Nan Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区花家地南街8号中央美术学
院美术馆 (6528 2022, www.cafamuseum.org)
Today Art Museum *
As China’s first non-profit, non-governmental art museum, this institution embodies
the country’s 20th-century leap to develop
academic and progressive exhibitions.
Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and
university prospects all get wall space
here.
// RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4, Pingod
Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼今日美术馆
(5876 0600, www.todayartmuseum.com)
Independent cinemas
Broadway Cinematheque MOMA *
76
Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue
boasts the largest screens for independent
cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters
with a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm
cafe-bookstore, aptly named Kubrick.
// RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3, Building T4,
The North Area, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongcheng
District 东城区东直门香河园路1号当代Moma北区
T4座 (8438 8258 ext. 8008, www.bc-cinema.cn)
Instituto Cervantes
Showing popular independent films from
Latin American Directors monthly, the
Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanishspeaking culture that also hosts public art
exhibitions and lectures. They even have a
video library!
// Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti Nanlu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 (5879 9666,
www.pekin.cervantes.es)
Bookstores
The Bookworm *
This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village,
providing a cozy atmosphere for browsing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore,
library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and
event space always has a cultured evening
on its shelves for both adults and kids.
// Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun Road,
Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号楼 (6586
9507, www.beijingbookworm.com)
best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all
imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan
possible, get custom-made tanning tips
from the well-trained staff.
// Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, Jianwai Soho 39
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环
中路建外SOHO西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.
net) 2) 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳区
三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www.luxura.net)
Lily Nails
A long-time favorite among locals and expats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a
nail spa; they have a variety of pampering
treatments and waxing services too.
// Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 48 Dongzhimenwai
Dajie (southeast of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng
District东城区东直门外大街48号东方银座2楼(东
直门桥东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3
Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang District朝
阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层2049号 ( 5136 5829,
136 8148 3308)
Yoga Yard
Whether you’re looking to develop your
spiritual wellbeing, body toning or just
socialize with the hip young crowd, Yoga
Yard will have the right class for you.
// Daily, 7am-9.30pm. Yoga Yard, 6/F , 17 Gongti Bei Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区工体北路17号6层 (6413 0774,
www.yogayard.com)
Page One
The go-to shop for new releases and special requests. With sister venues in Hong
Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two
locations in Beijing, its network allows for
fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive
collection of titles.
// Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China World
Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Chaoyang District
朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层3B201 (8535 1055,
www.pageonegroup.com)
Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商业
中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, www.pageonegroup.com)
BEAUTY & FITNESS
Alona Pilates Studio
Pairing up traditional Pilates with an innovative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates
offers classes designed to tone and whip
you into shape fast. It also provides a personalized experience for all its students,
regardless of fitness, strength and
flexibility levels.
// Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Westin, 1
Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029
0260, www.alonapilates.com)
Broadwell International Tennis Academy
Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis
Center, this indoor club boasts a complete
state-of-the-art air-supported structure
for all-weather year-round indoor tennis,
with an advanced lighting system and
controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking
to perfect their service and batting a few
balls.
// Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区农南路1
号朝阳公园网球中心(4006406800/ 65958885,www.
broadwell.cn1)
DNA Fitness Studio
Catering for both athletes and normal
folks, DNA Fitness Studio specializes in
one-on-one personal training, weight loss,
spine care, body building and more, with
personalized classes and training systems.
// Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm.Unit 1135, 3F, Bldg 11, Jianwai
SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区东三环中路建外SOHO西区11楼3层 (5869 1607)
Fine Yoga
This airy studio offers a diverse range of
style and classes, including Ashtanga,
Hatha, Anusara, soft Yin and Hot yoga.
Teachers are top notch and international,
and classrooms spacious and bright, with
stylish, clean changing-rooms. Classes
taught in both Chinese and English.
// Mon-Fri 7am-9:30pm, Sat- Sun. 10am-6pm.
16/F, Tower 2, Blue Castle International Centre, 3 Xi
Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西大望路3号蓝
堡国际中心2号楼16层 (85999566/ 85997702)
Heyrobics
“Sweat like a Swede!” they say with annoyingly smug grin and toned abs. The only
fitness craze worth following in Beijing,
Heyrobics is all about a punishing full-body
workout set to pumping beats – not forgetting the fluorescent spandex. Differing
classes for all abilities, check online for the
full schedule.
// www.heyrobics.com, [email protected]
Luxura Tanning Center
This tanning salon has some of the city’s
Yihe 42° Hot Yoga
Counting on certified Bikram yoga teachers, Yihe 42° Hot Yoga provides three
locations with a calm, relaxing and clean
environment for people from all walks of
lives to learn and grow through the regular
practice of Hot Yoga. This is a place where
you can dedicate time for yourself, relax
your mind and restore your strength.
// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South Building, Blue
Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区大望路蓝
堡国际中心南写2座3层 (8599 7395/96, www.yh42.
com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan
Xilu Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝色
港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.yh42.com) ; 3) 3/FA
Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu Chaoyang District朝阳工
体北路新中西里13号巨石大厦3FA
YogiYoga
True boutique-style yoga, YogiYoga has a
mostly Chinese clientele and classes average about eight people. Their instructors
come from all over the world, and teach a
wide range of classes.
// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) Chaoyang Park Tennis Center,
Chaoyang Park, 1 Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路1号朝阳公园网球中
心 6592 2791/92 ; 2) North Gate, Ritan Park Chaoyang
District 朝阳区日坛公园北门 (8561 5506/5507); 3)
5/F, Oriental Plaza, 218-2 Wangfujing Dajie Dongcheng
District东城区王府井大街218-2东方广场西配楼五
层 (6513-2188, 6522-7168); 4) 8/F, Zhongxin Shuma Plaza,
52 Beisihuan Xilu Haidian District海淀区北四环西路52
号中芯数码大厦8层 6269-2352
DENTAL
Arrail Dental
Affiliated with the University of Pennsylvania, Arrail Dental has access to top-class
equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple
locations across town and excellent
facilities make it one of the best dental
providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff.
Dental services including examinations,
whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodontics and implants.
// 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B Jianguo Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路乙118号国贸桥东
南角京汇大厦201室 (6567 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower
A, CITIC Building, 19 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang
District朝阳区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208
室 (6500 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech
Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀区中关村
科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308室 (8286 1956);
4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16
号楼101室 (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune
Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮
马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 (8440 1926)
SDM Dental固瑞齿科
The full spectrum of dentistry.
Services include teeth cleaning, rootcanal treatment, porcelain crowns, dental
implants, orthodontics, cosmetic dentistry,
fillings, pediatric dentistry, extraction,
teeth-whitening and veneers. Credit cards
accepted. www.sdmdental.com**Mon-Fri
9am-8pm. CBD/Guomao>2/F,NB210, China
World Shopping Mall, 1 Jianguomenwai
Dajie 建外大街 1 号国贸商城地下 2 层
Tel:6505-9439/31/93**Mon-Fri 9am8pm.Olympic Area>F-0186B Sunshine
Plaza, 68 Anli Lu(east of Sunshine Plaza)
亚运村安立路 68 号（阳光广场东侧）.
Tel: 6497-2173,6498-2173**Mon-Sun
10am-19pm.Shunyi>LB07-08, No.99
Euro Plaza, YuXiang Road. 北京顺义区
天竺镇裕翔路 99 号欧陆广场 LB07-08
号 .Tel: 8046-6084**Mon-Fri 9am-8pm.
Sanyuanqiao>FC222, 21st Century Hotel,
40 Liang Maqiao Lu 亮马桥 40 号 21 世纪饭
店 2 层 Tel: 6466-4814, 6461-2745**Mon-Fri
9am-8pm.Haidian>4076B, 4/F, New Yansha
Mall, Yuanda Lu 远大路金源燕莎购物中心
Mall4 层 4076B Tel:8859-6912/13**MonSun, 10am-7pm Guomao>Rm 5, 3/F, North
Tower, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua
Dongli. 北京朝阳区光华东里 8 号中海广场北
楼 3 层 05 号 .Tel: 5977-2488
United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic
The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in
Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital
in Lido (which has its own dental clinic
onsite). A comprehensive range of services
are at hand, including restorative dentistry
and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all
appointments.
// 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Development
Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家医院牙科诊所, 顺义区
天竺开发区荣祥广场818 (8046 1102)
HAIR SALONS
Eric Paris Hair Salon
With several well-located Beijing branches,
this salon is still most expats’ default
hairdresser. It targets high-end consumers
seeking luxury and beauty services, including tanning, waxing and manicures.
// Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 43 South Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang
District朝阳区三里屯北街南43号 (135 0137 2971;
www.ericparis.com ); 2) 1/F, Jiali Center, 1 Guanghua Lu朝
阳区光华路1号嘉里中心1楼 (139 1179 8376;)
Franck Provost Paris
A chic and stylish import from France,
Frank Provost is one of Beijing’s most
high-profile and hip salons, offering
cutting-edge cuts for the city’s elite. The
staff consists of international and internationally trained stylists and technicians,
and stocks an imported range of products
and accessories.
// Daily, 10am-8pm.1) Shop D2001-1, 2/F, Shin Kong Place
87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路87号
新光天地二层D2001-1店铺 (6530 7669); 2) Parkson
Shopping Center Fuxingmen 37 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng
District西城区金融大街37号百盛购物中心二期夹
层 (6653 5248)
Tony & Guy
A favorite of many Beijing expats, the
trendy British chain features international products, knowledgeable (generally
somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a
never-ending stream of well-heeled hip
clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to
haute coiffure, depending on which grade
of stylish you select.
// Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港地铁
层41号 (8426 0688, for other branches see)
Tic Tac Hair Salon
Trendy, artsy and welcoming, Tic Tac is
one of Beijing’s best-kept secrets and a
real beauty gem. Staff are friendly and
multilingual (we counted five last time).
A shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at
RMB200 and goes to RMB780.
// Daily, 10am-9pm. Suite 2-06, Tower AB, The Office Park,
10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang district朝阳区金桐西路10
号远洋光华国际AB座2层06单元 (8590 6899, www.
tictac-hair.com)
HEALTH SERVICES
Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital
With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality
inpatient facilities, home visits, night
services and transportation assistance,
Amcare provides a trustworthy experience.
English-speaking services include pediatrics, gynecology and obstetrics.
// 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西
路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 6200, www.
amcare.com.cn)
Beijing International Medical Center (IMC)
Established in 1993, the International
Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert
team of foreign doctors, offering a wide
range of medical services, including family
medicine, psychological services, dental,
ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in services for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds
are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese,
Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken.
// 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, 50
Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区亮马桥路50
号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 1561/2/3, 6465
1384/28, www.imclinics.com)
Beijing United Family Hospital and Clinics
北京和睦家医院
Wi-fi internet. Lido, Emergency Room is
open 24/7/365, Mon-Fri, 8:30am-5pm.>
2 Jiangtai Road, Chaoyang District, 朝
阳区将台路 2 号 . Tel: (10) 5927 7000 /
5927 7120(Emergency Hotline). United
Family CBD Clinic 和睦家朝外诊所 , Mon-Sat,
9:30am-6:30pm.> Suite 3017, Building AB,
Vantone Center, 6 Chaowai Street, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区朝阳门外大街 6 号万通中
心 AB 座 2 层 3017 室 . Tel: (10) 5907 1266.
Jianguomen Health and Wellness Center 和
睦家建国门保健中心 , Wi-fi internet, MonSun 8:30am-5pm>21 Jianguomen Dajie, B1,
The St. Regis Residence, St. Regis Hotel 朝阳
区建国门外大街 21 号北京国际俱乐部饭店 .
Tel: (10) 8532 1221 / 8532 1678 (Immigration Clinic ). Shunyi Clinic 和睦家顺义诊所
Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri, 9:30am-5:30pm, Sat
and Sun, 9:30am-4:30pm.> Pinnacle Plaza,
Unit 806, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development
Zone, Shunyi District, 顺义区天竺开发区荣
祥广场 806 号 ,Tel: (10) 8046 5432. Shunyi
Dental Clinic 顺义牙科诊所 , Wi-fi internet,
Mon-Sat, 9:30am-7:30pm> Pinnacle Plaza,
Unit 818, Tian Zhu Real Estate Development
Zone, Shunyi District 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥
广场 818 号 . Tel: (10) 8046 1102. Liangma
Clinic 亮马诊所 Wi-fi internet, Mon-Fri,
8:30am-5pm>2nd Floor Grand Summit, 19
Dongfang East Road 朝阳区东方东路 19 号 1
号楼会所 27 号（外交人员公寓 B 区官舍 16
号）. Tel: (10) 5927 7005
www.ufh.com.cn, [email protected].
cn
Beijing Vista Clinic
This comprehensive medical and dentistry
clinic features traditional medicine, physiotherapy, a pharmacy and lab, ob/gyn,
pediatrics, ophthalmology, dermatology,
ENT and psychiatry services among others. Multi-lingual doctors always available
on-site.
// Daily 24hours. Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang
district朝阳区光华路1号 (8529 6618, www.vistachina.net)
OASIS International Hospital
OASIS International Hospital specializes in
serving the expatriate community with the
latest world-class technology and a broad
range of services, all in a pristine facility
designed to provide patients with the
utmost comfort, care and privacy.
// Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am-12.30pm; 24
Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 Jiuxianqiao Beilu Chaoyang
District朝阳区酒仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747,
5985-0333, www.oasishealth.cn)
International SOS
Since 1989, International SOS has been
run by globally trained medical professionals and provides medical, security
and travel advice, as well as emergency
help 24/7. Its alarm centers operate
house calls, ambulance and evacuation
services, and standard health treatments.
Languages spoken include English,
German, French, Mandarin, Spanish,
Japanese, Italian and Cantonese.
// Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16
Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号琨莎
中心1座105
室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internationalsos.com)
SPA&MASSAGE
Aqua Salus
Providing an array of massage, face and
body-care treatments, waxing treatments
and salon services, Aqua Salus is a onestop solution for almost any beauty needs.
// Daily, 12am-12pm. 1) Taiyue Height 106, 16 Nan
Sanlitun Lu Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路16号
泰悦豪庭底商106 (6501 2881, www.aquasalus.cn); 2)
Lucky Street 1-17, 1 Chaoyang Park Lu Chaoyang District
朝阳区好运街1-17朝阳公园路1号 (6501-6639, www.
aquasalus.cn)
Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat
Created as a contemporary urban retreat,
Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tranquility in the midst of the hectic city.
// Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (near The
Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) Dongcheng District
东城区东华门大街60号(近王府饭店和东方广场)
(6527 9368, www.dragonfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn,
Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯
路逸羽酒店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza,
19 Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa Center),
Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方东路19号外交
会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) (8532 3122)
Ispa
A comprehensive range of both traditional
spa rituals and modern foot reflexology
awaits you at Ispa. This ultra-Zen oasis has
treatments that beautifully blend Eastern
and Western healing ideologies, for an ultrarelaxing experience.
// Daily 10am-10pm. 5/F, Tower 2, Taiyue Suites, 16 Nan
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路16号
泰悦豪庭2座5层 (6507 1517)
Angel Hands
Choose from a variety of treatments by
professional masseuses in relaxing, minimalist surroundings.
// Daily, 24 hours. Rm 1801, Bldg 2, Jianwai SOHO, 39
Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环
中路39号建外SOHO2号楼 (8631 0801)
Herborist
TCM-inspired, Herborist is a Chinese skincare brand that also has a chain of spas
offering therapeutic massages with herbs.
The spa observes time-honored Chinese
health and beauty practices, with treatments inspired from acupuncture techniques in Traditional Chinese Medicine.
// Daily 10am-10pm. 1) Bldg 9, Sanlitun Village South, 19
Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯路19号三
里屯Village南区8号楼S8-33 (6416 5179); 2) Shop 39,
Subway Level, Indigo Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang
District朝阳区酒仙桥路18号颐堤港商场地铁层店
铺号LG39 (8426 0455)
The Wellness Spa by Hummingbird
A favorite among locals and expats alike
for its professional pampering know-how
and services, the Wellness Spa by Hummingbird is a slick and serious urban
retreat in the heart of Central Park.
// Daily 10am-10pm. Tower 26, Central Park,
Chaoyangmen Wai Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳门外
新城国际26号楼 (6533 6922)
Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa
Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pampering Beijing’s finest in their small chain
of contemporary spas. Calming flower
aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui
fountains create a soothing atmosphere in
each of their locations, while a long list of
treatments from around the world cater to
all pampering needs.
// Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 Ritan Lu,
Chaoyang District朝阳区日坛路6号 (400 001 0202,
www.taipan.com.cn)
EDUCATIONS
MBA & EMBA SCHOOLS
BBA at BFSU-SolBridge
北京外国语大学国际商学院
// 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District, 海淀区西三
环北路19号 (solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn, 8881 6563/8881
6763/8881 8537)
Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business
// Tower E3, 3/F, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an Jie,
Dongcheng District
东城区东长安街号东方广场东3座3层 (8518 1050)
Rutgers International Executive MBA
// 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang
District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦
(5877 1706, www.rutgersinasia.com)
Tsinghua University
// Chengfu Lu, Haidian District 海淀区成府路 (6278
9437/8286 3785)
University of Maryland
//www.umd.edu
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
Beijing BISS International School
北京BISS国际学校
// Building 17, Area 4, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳
区安贞西里4区17楼 (6443 3151
www.biss.com.cn)
Beijing City International School
北京乐成国际学校
// 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 (8771 7171
www.bcis.cn)
Beijing Rego British School
北京瑞金英国学校
//15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District
顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号 (8416 7718
www.bjrego.org)
The British School of Beijing
Lower School北京英国学校
// 5 Xiliujie, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区三里屯西六街5号 (8532 3088
www.britishschool.org.cn)
Upper School
// South Side, 9 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District
顺义区安华路9号南院 (8047 3588)
Canadian International School of Beijing
北京加拿大国际学校
// 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区亮马桥路38号 (6465 7788
www.cisb.com.cn)
Dulwich College Beijing
北京德威英国国际学校
1) Legend Garden Campus
// 89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi District
首都机场路89号丽京花园 (6454 9000;
www.dulwich-beijing.cn)
2) Beijing Riviera Campus
// 1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳
区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园 (8450 7676)
3) River Garden Campus
// River Garden Villas, Houshayu Baixinzhuang, Shunyi
District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕京花园别墅 8046
5132
Harrow International School Beijing
北京哈罗英国学校
www.harrowbeijing.cn
Lower School
// Grassetown, Gequ Village, Songzhuang Tongzhou
District 通州区徐新庄镇葛渠村格拉斯小镇 (8951
6680)
Upper School
// 5, 4th Block, Anzhen Xili Chaoyang District 朝阳区安
贞西里4区5号 (6444 8900)
International School of Beijing
北京顺义国际学校
// www.isb.bj.edu.cn
10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District
顺义区安华路10号 (8149 2345)
SIBS Springboard International Blingual
School 君城国际双语学院
Springboard International Bilingual
School is a place where children, staff and
parents work in partnership to enable all
their students to realize their full potential.
They are offering a stimulating and full
international curriculum as well as an
exciting after school program, which will
include Kung Fu, calligraphy, health and
fitness and football.
// 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu Town, Shunyi
District 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (www.
sibs.com.cn, [email protected]; 8049 2450)
Western Academy of Beijing
京西国际学校
// 10 Laiguangying Donglu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区来广营东路10号 (5986 5588 www.wab.edu)
Yew Chung International School
耀中国际学校
// Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang, Chaoyang District
朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731
www.ycis-bj.com)
KINDERGARTENS
Beanstalk International Bilingual School
青苗国际双语学校
Kindergarten
// 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝
阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 (6466 9255)
Primary School
// Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang
District 朝阳区东四环北路6号阳光上东二区 (5130
7951)
Middle & High School
// 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南十里居38
号 (8456 6019)
EtonKids International Kindergarten
伊顿国际幼儿园
1) Lido – 6436 7368
www.etonkids.com
// Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place Jichang Lu,
Chaoyang District 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场
2) 6506 4805
3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion
Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层
3) 8437 1006
Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui Lu, Chaoyang
District
朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角
4) 8480 5538
Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing
朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区
5) 6533 6995
Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼
6) 6539 8967
Palm Springs International Apartments
8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓
7) 6749 5008
Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Dongcheng
District
东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼
8) 8478 0578
Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing
Chaoyang District
朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期
9) 8047 2983
Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu
Shunyi District
顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚
庄园1座
10) 5870 6779
20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内
International Montessori School of Beijing
北京蒙台梭利国际学校
6432 8228
www.msb.edu.cn
18 Maquanying, Xiangjiang Beilu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区香江北路马泉营18号
Ivy Schools
艾毅幼儿园
www.ivyschools.com
East Lake Campus
8451 1380/1
C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai Main Street,
Dongcheng District
东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室
Ivy Bilingual School
艾毅双语幼儿园
Ocean Express Campus
8446 7286/7
Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan Beilu,
Chaoyang District
朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座
Orchid Garden Campus
8439 7080
Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Chaoyang
District
朝阳区崔各乡新锦路18号卓锦万代
Wangjing Campus
5738 9166/1332 110 6167
Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Chaoyang
District
朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内
Muffy’s Education
儿童英语之家
www.muffys.cn
1) Shijicheng8843 0104/8843 0373
5/F West of Huibo Building, Opposite to The elementary
school affliated to Renmin University Landianchang Lu,
Haidian District
海淀区蓝靛厂路人大附小对面汇博大厦西侧5层
2) Wangjing
5734 7085/400 6633 282
Beixiiaohe Park East Gate, Wanjing Xilu, ChaoYang District
朝阳区望京北小河公园东门
3) Wanliu
8257 2550/400 6633 282
Yangchunguanghuafengshuyuan North Club, Haidian
District
海淀区万柳东路阳春光华枫树园北会所
3e International
北京3e国际学校
6437 3344
www.3eik.com
9-1 Jiangtai Xilu
Chaoyang District
朝阳区将台西路9-1号(四德公园旁)
77
CLASSIFIEDS
Accommodation
Ascott China
Enjoy our hot offer this summer with 20%
savings on Best Available Rates in Ascott
Beijing, Ascott Raffles City Beijing, Somerset
ZhongGuanCun Beijing from now to 30
September 2013. Take your pick from these
wonderful destinations and let us provide
you and your loved ones with a warm
welcome in Beijing this summer. Now is
the time to choose your favorite service
apartments, open your summer tour!
www.ascottchina.com
Ascott Beijing
No.108B Jian Guo Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 6567 8100
Ascott Raffles City Beijing
Located in Dongzhimen, one of the most
vibrant areas, Ascott Raffles City is near the
second embassy district, which is rich in
cultural heritage and is only a 15 minute
drive to The Forbidden City.
Other nearby leisure attractions include
Food Street (Gui Jie) and Sanlitun nightlife
district.
No.1-2 Dongzhimen South Street
Dongcheng District
Tel: 8405 3888
Somerset Grand Fortune Garden Beijing
Enjoy gracious living at Somerset Grand
Fortune Garden in the prime Chaoyang
District, where the business district,
embassies and international schools are
within close proximity.
Unwind with a medley of recreational
facilities and the convenience of a retail
mall at your doorstep.
No.46 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District
Tel: 8451 8888
FraserResidence CBD East Beijing
Our location on the Fringe of the CBD with
excellent connections to the subway line
1 (Sihui station), BRT Lines (Ciyunsi) and
public bus system mean that wherever your
intern needs to be in the city, getting there
is relatively fuss free!
One bedroom deluxe: RMB16,000 /month
Two bedroom Executive: RMB26,000 /
month
Three bedroom Deluxe: RMB33,000 /month
Email: sales.frbeijing@frasershospitality.
com
Website: http://beijing-east.frasershospitality.com
Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988
FraserSuite CBD Beijing
The ultimate luxury in apartment living,
Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style
and comfort, that surpasses the service
level of many Beijing hotels. The 357
Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features
contemporary concepts designed for luxury
living.
12 Jintong Xilu Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 5908 6000
GTC RESIDENCE BEIJING
One of the top residences in Beijing, GTC
Residence is located beside the third ring
road with 5 minutes’ walk to subway line
5 , 10 minutes’ drive to Hou Hai . It is
also within easily reach of CBD, embassy
area, Financial Street and other urban
commercial,shopping and recreation areas.
Fully equipped apartments with impeccable
quality offer you a cozy living system and
will meet all of your requirements for room
decoration, furniture, electric appliances
etc..
Unique sky garden with golf practice field
and barbecue area is another symbol of
GTC Residence.
E-mail: [email protected]
website: www.gtcresidence.com
Tel:56756666
Lanson Place
Lanson Place Central Park Serviced
Residences, located in the Central Business
District of Chaoyang, offers spacious
apartments in two, three and four bedroom
configurations as well as penthouses
overlooking a charming landscaped garden.
78
The interiors are contemporary and restful
while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens
are fully equipped.
Website: www.lansonplace.com
Lanson Place Central Park Residences
Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmenwai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing
Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza
The Millennium Residences of the Beijing
Fortune Plaza is located in the heart of
the Beijing CBD which bears the most
momentously potential of development
and value elevation. While 25 minutes away
from the Beijing International Airport, the
Millennium Residences is walking distance
from nearly all Embassies.
7 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu Chaoyang District.
Tel: 8588 2888
Oakwood Residence Beijing
Oakwood Residence Beijing offers 406
fully equipped luxury apartments ranging
from studios to four bedroom penthouse
and terrace apartments, all exquisitely
furnished in elegant and stylish decor. Each
apartment is fitted with a state-of-the-art
air purification and air conditioning system
which ensures 99.9% pure, triple filtered
air, so you can trust in Oakwood and
breathe easy.
No. 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang
District, Beijing 100027, China
[email protected]
Website: www.oakwoodasia.com/resbeijing
Tel: 5995 2888 Fax: 5995 2999
THE WESTIN EXECUTIVE RESIDENCES
The Westin Executive Residences at The
Beijing Financial Street offer an array of
world-class cuisine options and Westin’s
signature amenities designed to elicit
personal renewal. Just 40 minutes from the
airport, the Westin Executive Residences
provides direct access to Beijing’s business,
entertainment and shopping district and
close proximity to cultural landmarks such
as The Forbidden City and Tiananmen
Square. Each apartment is also fitted with
contemporary furnishings, fully equipped
kitchens, state-of-the-art appliances, home
entertainment system and LCD flat screen
televisions.
Website: www.westin.com/beijingfinancial
Tel: 6606 8866
Beauty Services
Black Golden Tanning Salon Sanlitun
Branch Grand Opening
Black Golden Tanning Salon is the only fivestar China flagship store by Ergoline. As
the 2011 model of Ergoline Esprit 770’s,
to bring a continuous tanning effect 25%
above standard machines with unique
aquacool and aroma functions, we provide
customers with the safest and most
comfortable tanning space.
Open time:11:00-21:00
Sanlitun SOHO Branch
Add: 2rd Floor Building 3, Sanlitun
SOHO,Chaoyang District
Tel: 57853711
Wangjing Branch
Add: Room T5 3rd Floor, BOTAI International Building, No. 36 North Guangshun
Street, Wangjing, Chaoyang District
Website: www.bjtanning.com
Tel: 84722855
LA BELLEZA
La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in
Spanish. Professional hair-designers from
Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here.
LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for
you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent
service, and finest products.
New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life!
Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street
No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china.
Website: www.labelleza.com.cn
Tel: 010 8522 1626
MegaSun Tanning Salon
As the only flagship store for this popular
German tanning salon, megaSun Tanning
will provide for each client the finest sun
tanning experience.
Our center has prepared the newest
functional 7900 alpha and pureEnergy
chamber systems, combined with easyCare
optical testers. At megaSun, enjoy our
professional UV and tanning services.
Add: #8 Dongdaqiao Road, Shangdu SOHO
North Tower, Rm. 2302
Chaoyang District, Beijing
Website: www.imegasun.com
e-mail: [email protected]
Sina Weibo: @ 麦肤堂
Tel: 5900-2236/2238
BUSINESS CENTER
CSO (Singapore) Beijing Business Center
We have 10 years experience in
managing serviced offices in the Asia and
Pacific region, and our headquarters is in
Singapore. CSO Beijing is our first business
center in China . We are mainly providing
fully renovated and equipped offices to
clients for immediate use, and all the
serviced offices can be used as incorporation purpose, and we offer maximum
flexibility and complete smart office system
to help our clients save cost. We also
provide virtual offices, meeting room and
conference room, video conferencing,
incorporation services and many other
services.
Add.: Level 6, Sun Palace Building,
Taiyanggong, Beijing
Ms. Stephanie Yan, Mobile: 18210080591
Website: www.csochina.cn
Tel: 86 10 64697000
Regus Business Centre
Premium Business Centre
12 in Beijing, 70+ in Greater China
Tel: +86 400 120 1205
Website: www.regus.cn
Regus is the world’s largest provider of
workplace solutions, with products and
services ranging from fully equipped offices
to professional meeting rooms, business
lounges and the world’s largest network of
video communication studios.
Regus China Central Place
9/F Tower 2 China Central Place
79 Jianguo Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Dawanglu station (Line 1)
Regus China Life Tower
5/F China Life Tower
16 Chaoyangmenwai Street
Chaoyang District
Close to Chaoyangmen station (Line 2)
Regus China World Tower 3
15/F China World Tower 3
1 Jianguomenwai Avenue
Chaoyang District
Close to Guomao station (Line 1, 10)
Regus IFC
10/F, IFC East Tower
8 Jianguomenwai Avenue
Chaoyang District
Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1)
Regus Kerry Centre
11/F Kerry Centre, North Tower
1 Guanghua Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Jintaixizhao station (Line1, 10)
Regus Lufthansa Center
C203 Lufthansa Center
50 Liangmaqiao Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Liangmaqiao station (Line 10)
Regus NCI Tower
15/F NCI Tower
12 A Jianguomenwai Avenue
Chaoyang District
Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1)
Regus Pacific Century Place
14/F IBM Tower, PCP
2A Workers Stadium Road North
Chaoyang District
Close to Tuanjie Lake station (Line 10)
Regus Parkview Green
15/F Office Building A, Parkview Green
9 Dongdaqiao Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Dongdaqiao station (Line 6)
Regus Prosper Center
6/F Tower 2, Prosper Center
No.5 Guang Hua Road
Chaoyang District
Close to Yong’anli station (Line 1,10)
Regus Financial Street Excel Centre
12/F Financial Street Excel Centre
6 Wudinghou Street
Xicheng District
Close to Fuchengmen station (Line 2)
Regus Zhongguancun Metropolis Tower
7/F Metropolis Tower
2 Dongsan Street, Zhongguancun Xi Zone
Haidian District
Close to Zhongguancun station (Line 4,10)
CABLE SERVICES
Super IPTV
Super IPTV offers 90+ international
channels in HD quality, delivered to your
television through a set top box via a
broadband connection. Just like cable back
home, pick up the remote control and start
watching. Includes HBOHD, Fox Movies HD,
Star Movies, CNN, BBC, CNBC, Star World,
AXN, Discovery, Disney Junior, Cartoon, Fox
Sports, EPL, ESPN, Star sports, SETANTA
Sports, F1 and much more.
// (www.superiptv.com, [email protected]; 133
716 00100/139 1188 5499)
CAR RENTAL SERVICE
Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd
Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd was
set up specifically to cater for the needs of
the expatriate communities, we provide:
English -speaking driver, Long-short term
leasing, Airport-Pick up/ Drop off, Sedan,
Van and Bus.
Website: www.expatslife.com
Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292
Catering Services
Aurora Catering
An 100% authentic Italian experience
whether tasting a mouthful Lasagna or a
juicy Carpaccio. Our international team
brings to you the authentic freshness and
tidbit of an Italian Espresso or a homemade
tastiness of a Mozzarella.
We offer a full range of catering and event
planning services for all types of business
and personal functions that are tailored for
you. The best service, at your service.
Contact Jacopo Tomé at 137 1794 0458
[email protected]
Zone de Comfort
With our professional service, you can
focus 100% on your event at Zone de
Comfort, every single assignment is unique
for us. Our experience helps us understand
your objectives with thorough planning,
and of course, exquisite food with elegant
presentation.
In the past 5 years, we have handled
numerous catering projects covering
diplomatic/business functions for embassies, high-end cocktail receptions for
luxuries brands, automobiles and month-
long hospitality center services. Find out
more from our Website: www.zdc-catering.
com
Chinese learning
Beijing Juncheng Language School
北京君诚语言学校
With professional teachers and high quality
teaching methods, we have gained good
reputation from our students and different
foreign institutions for more than 12 years.
We provide all levels Mandarin group and
private classes.
// Room 208,No.1 Panjiapo Hutong,
Chaoyangmenwai, Dongcheng District 东
城区朝阳门外潘家坡胡同1号东城区职工大学
208办公室 (6525 9932/6526 7539)
Gucheng Village, 15 Huosha Road, Houshayu Town, Shunyi District, Beijing 顺义区后
沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 (8049 0307)
(www.junchengedu.com, juncheng2000@
sina.com)
The Bridge School
北京桥汉语言学校
The school has 20 years of history, and
currently about 150 committed teachers and over 60 contracted companies/
embassies. Our own textbooks with memory cards and CDs are published by Beijing Language and Culture University, and we are the official test centre for HSK,BCT and YCTexam. There are over 5000 worldwide students at The Bridge School annually.
// Guangming Hotel (The Bridge
School Head office): Room503, 5/F.
Tel: 15321793321 Grettchin
CONSULTING SERVICE
Harris Corporate Services Ltd
Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong
Kong
Established since 1972
WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up
Accounting & Tax Compliance
Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions
Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration
Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening
Serving all your business needs for investing in China. Call us for a free consultation.
Tel: (86)10-6591 8087
Mobile: 186-019-43718
Beijing:
Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua
Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC.
北京市朝阳区光华路 12 号数码 01 大厦 2302
室
Shanghai:
Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong
Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC.
上海市静安区延安中路 841 号东方海外大厦
904 室
Guangzhou:
Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3
Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC.
广州市中山二路 3 号 ( 东山口 ) 粤运大厦 11
楼 D-E 室
Hong Kong:
7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des
Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong.
香港德辅道中 161-167 号香港贸易中心 7 楼
Beijing Office-TMF Group
In order to enable clients benefit from
the increasing globalization of the worlds
economy, TMF Group offers a comprehensive range of corporate administrative
outsourcing services in 67 counties across
the globe. With a genuine global network
and qualified staff, TMF group provides an
array of accounting, corporate secretarial
and HR administrative outsourcing services.
[email protected]
Website: http://www.tmf-group.com
CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre
Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7
Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang
District
Tel: 65330533-860
EDUCATIONAL SERVICE
Ivy Bilingual School
Ivy Bilingual School offers a curriculum
based on the Multiple Intelligences
theory and provides an immersive bilingual
program, where both Chinese and Western
teachers interact with children throughout
the day. There are two Ivy Bilingual Schools
in Beijing.
Address:Building E, Ocean Express, No.
2 East Third Ring North Road, Chaoyang
District, Beijing 100027
Website: www.ivyschools.com
010 8446 7287
LEMBA
The Leadership EMBA from the University
of Maryland
Robert H. Smith School of Business is a
unique learning experience in Beijing. The
program offers world class executive and
leadership education from some of the best
professors the world has to offer. Every
month one of the professors from the
University of Maryland comes to Beijing
to instruct the class for 4 consecutive
days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18
months; the impact lasts a lifetime.
Tel: 8526 2528/29
FURNITURE
Crossover
Crossover Center Flagship Store, is
mainly marketing international super home
furnishing brand products.
Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau,
Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini,
Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over
20 international super home furnishing
brands.
Our products are covered with all of fields
in daily-life home furnishing, including
furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and
office supplies etc.
Website: www.crossovercenter.com
NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. ChaoYang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C.
Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123
HOUSEKEEPING
JNY Home Service
JNY Home Service was established in
2007, supplying foreign families with
English speaking/non-English Speaking
nannies(maids), either daily or live-in.
As a part of our service,we make sure all
references and ID cards are thoroughly
checked to guarantee the safety and health
of your family.
Email : [email protected]
Mobile: 13426362833(24h)
Beijing EX-PATS Service
Healty, reliable, experienced, Englishspeaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency
and 24- hour English service. Medical
and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS
Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car
leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese
driving license, vehicle registration.
[email protected]
Website: www.expatslife.com
Tel: 64381634
Mobile: 13501237292
MOVING & SHIPPING
Seven Seas Worldwide
Save up to 50%! We’re the first choice when
it comes to moving baggage internationally
from one box up to 2M3. We offer a global,
door-to-door service with prices starting
from RMB 999 by sea and RMB 1580 by air.
Call 400 181 6698 now for an instant quote
or book online at www.sevenseasworldwide.com
RECRUITMENTS
The Pearl Golf Club
The Pearl Golf Club, an American owned
and operated company is the largest
luxury golf simulation club in Beijing. The
Pearl Golf Club is an exclusive, membersonly club designed to serve the unique
needs of Beijing’s elite. We are looking
for an energetic, vibrant and responsible
Sales Associate with outstanding sales
and communication skills who can work
under pressure. The responsibilities for
this position will include developing and
maintaining a client pipeline and planning
and hosting luxury events.
If you are interested this opportunity and
meet our requirements please send your
CV to [email protected]
SPORTS
California Fitness Beijing Club.
California Fitness Beijing is over 3,000
sqm, with modern exercise equipment,
cardio and resistance training, steam
rooms, group exercise studios and more.
Our Group X program is among the best
in the region, and with membership you
have access to over 150 weekly Group X
classes and a team of professional personal
trainers in Asia. Your membership also
includes free towel usage and a fitness
assessment.
Address: South Tower,L4,No.9 Guanghua
Road ,Chaoyang District , Beijing .
Fax: 010-65871477
Website: www,californiafitness.com
Tel: 4008-100-988
Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅
Cycle China provides organized cycling and
hiking tours in and around Beijing as well
as longer tours throughout China. Some
of their more popular tours take cyclists
through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen
Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs.
Address:No. 12 Jingshan East Street,
Dongcheng District, Beijing 东城区景山东
街 12 号
Email us at [email protected] or
[email protected]
Tel: 6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524
Storage
China Self Storage Co. Ltd
As a member of SSA and SSAUK, China Self
Storage Co. Ltd. introduces an international industry standard to professionally
developed Self Storage for private, family
and business. Safe, clean, air-conditioned,
24h access, flexible size. To learn more,
visit www.selfstorageinchina.com. To make
a reservation, contact 400-600-6378 info@
selfstorageinchina.com.
Jin’an Building, Tianzhu Garden West Rd.,
Shunyi District, Beijing.
TRAVEL SERVICES
Silk Road Travel Management Ltd.
Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing
Silk Road tours and other classic routes
through China. Founded in 1997, we are
specialized in tailor made travel packages
that allow travelers to truly experience
local cultures and explore China’s amazing
cultural heritage. Whether you are a small
group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group,
our professional staff will design a tour
program based on your needs. Email: [email protected]
www.the-silk-road.com
Tel: (+852) 2736 8828
Fax: (+852) 2736 8000
TUI China
An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s
leading tourism group, TUI China was
established in late 2003 as the first joint
venture with foreign majority share in the
Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters
are in Beijing whilst its operations reach
deep into the far corners of China. World
of TUI generated approx.50,000 predominantly western tourists to China yearly and
provides M.I.C.E services for renowned
companies worldwide. Add: Bright China Chang An Building,
Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei
Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email:
[email protected]; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel:
8519 8800
Real Estate Agents
JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION
SERVICE
We are one of China’s leading real estate
agencies boasting an extensive database
of high-end properties for rent. We have
helped thousands of expatriates find their
homes as well as hundreds of companies
re-locate their employees. Once we have
found you your ideal home we will be on
hand to deal with any post move issues
and our dedicated after sales team will be
contactable 7 days a week to help you with
any queries you have throughout your stay
in our country.
For more information please contact us:
Website: http://beijing.joannarealestate.
com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971)
“One of a Kind”
—173m² duplex apt. in Park Avenue,wellmanaged and good security
compound,near Chaoyang Park,2 beds
and 2 baths,master-room with walk-in
closet,delightful furnishing,come with 80m²
private GARDEN,¥20800/m
—122m² duplex apt. in Central Park at
CBD,2 beds and 2 baths,very cosy,high
floor,¥19500/m
—110m² “King-Size” one bed apt. in Central
Park,delicate furniture,large living and
dining area ¥15500/m
for viewing please call frankie at 1085325104 or 13911091759 PROPERTY ONE
Replus-Benchmark
“Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading
real estate agencies and relocation service
provider for expatriates in Shanghai,
Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and
Shenzhen.
• Residential Home Search Service
• Visa Application
• Commercial Office Space Search Service
• Buying and Selling Property Service
E-mail: [email protected]
Website: www.replus-benchmark.com
A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun
Road, Chaoyang District Beijing
Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577
Recording Studios
Baihua Recording Studio:
Established in 1981, costings RMB10 million
for a total space of 400sqm, our studio is
built on a foundation of spring-formed
cement suspension structures.
This is a place worthy of being Asia’s finest
recording studio. Here you’ll find China’s hifi music holy land, the fountain of Chinese
Rock and Roll music.
We’ve recorded with artists like Tang
Dynasty, Black Panther, Compass, He Yong
– “Garbage”, Zhang Chu - “Sisters”, Chen
Sheng – “One Night in Beijing”; this is just
the tip of the iceberg.
Many musicians have come here to record
their music, and Baihua Studio is THE place
to make music.
Equipment Sales, Speaker/Equipment
Rental, Music Training, and practice
sessions are all available.
You can find everything you need in
regards to music…HERE.
We are the home of your imagination, with
quality level equipment and top level music
designed recording studio. Here is where
musicians make music happen.
The Baihua Music Education Team is
formed from professional 1st line music
artists, with professional attitudes and high
quality programs taught by knowledgeable
music professors you can trust, in areas of
guitar, bass, drums, and computer musicial
programs.
Baihua Recording Studio, No.16, Xinjiekou
South Street, Baihuashenchu Xicheng
District.
百花录音棚 , 北京市西城区
79
cpyptic pictures
WIN TICKETS TO THE ROLLING STONES!
We have a pair of tickets to the Rolling Stones concert on March 12 (see p32) to give away. Simply solve our Stones song
title cryptic pictures and send the answers to [email protected] with the subject ‘Satisfaction’ by the end of February
for a chance to win.
How it works: Each picture represents a word or syllable. Spoken out loud the below combinations will create the name of a Stones song.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
January issue answers: 1. Artax 2. Black Beauty 3. Boxer 4. Bucephalus 5. Trojan Horse 6. Copenhagen 7. The Pie 8. Incitatus 9. Mr. Ed
10. Marengo 11. Old Bob 12. Pokey 13. Rocinante 14. Shadowfax 15. Silver 16. Pegasus 17. Epona 18. Toronado 19. Trigger 20. Bullseye
80

February 2014

Transcription

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