MOUNT MAUNGANUI

MT MAUNGANUI - 1
MOUNT MAUNGANUI
by Martin Broederlow and Phil Higgins
Introduction
Mt Maunganui (Mauao) is located in the western Bay of Plenty at the mouth of the
Port of Tauranga harbour. The crags are just off the beach and close to the local
township, so don't expect a remote experience however there is easy access to a
coffee and swimming if that's what you're looking for.
The climbs are generally clean and solid though there are some routes established
amongst poor quality rock - care should be taken not to lobotomise your belayer.
The access track sees plenty of traffic so expect passers-by and perhaps an
audience. Please be considerate to other users. Consider all routes to be bolted
unless stated otherwise and all routes are described left to right.
Access
* New
* Cafe ,
Zealand's
Best
* Instruction
* Workshops
* Hire Gear (Ropes)
*
Run
by
Climbers
for
Gear Shop
Accommodation
Gear Clinics
Guiding Service
Crag Information
Climbers
for more information visit www.rockclimb.co.nz. Email [email protected]
Telephone / Fax (07) 872 2533
1424 Owairaka Valley Road
Wharepapa South
RD 7 Te Awamutu
New Zealand
Mount Maunganui is in the western Bay Of Plenty, surely the jewel of New
Zealands provinces. To reach the crag head to the Mt Maunganui beach, at the
base of Mt Maunganui (Mauao). Find the surf club on the west end of the mount
beach and then climb the Mount using the summit track (Oruaine track), staying
on the seaward side. It is a well benched, easy track and a 15 minute walk will get
you to Cables Wall.
Disclaimer
The author, publisher, and landowners take no responsibility for damages,
injury, disability, or death resulting from the use of this guide. This guide does
not guarantee any of the fixed gear, including bolts, peg, or belays mentioned in
this guide. All fixed gear is to be used at the climbers own risk. Ownership of
the guide does not grant you entry onto the property or crag. No responsibility
is accepted for the accuracy of the information in this guide. Climb at your own
risk.
GEAR
There are few traditionally protected routes here but if your do pack the rack you'll
need a full rack of cams and wires plus hexes if you have them and 10
quickdraws.
www.freeclimb.co.nz
Number One, for up to date
Rock Climbing Information
MT MAUNGANUI - 2
Cables Wall
Figure 2: WarratahWall Left
The Cables Wall is the first rock face as you climb the access track. A well
travelled area that is one of the most sheltered from the wind.
1. Sans Travail (16) 10m
The first route on the left past five bolts to a SRB anchor.
Chris Devenoges, Phil Higgins
2. Cables I (17) 10m
Climb the face past five bolts. Decievingly awkward.
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges
3. EEC (17) 10m
Climb the face and arete past the horizontal break. The crux is in the final moves, an
exciting finish to an excellent route. Five bolts.
Phil Higgins, Melanie Blomfield
Figure 1: Cables Wall
4. Short Arete (20) 9m
The short route to on the left of the first wall. A steep start to the ledge and the only
peg on the route. The crux is well protected by a single peg.
Phil Higgins
Warratah Wall Left
5. Unnamed Sport Route (19) 11m
Short steep start past one bolt, use the crack to mantle to the ledge. Past one more
bolt on the headwall to DRB.
Phil Higgins
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
MT MAUNGANUI - 3
Figure 3: Warratah Wall Right Side
6. Dreamweaver (17) 11m
Steep move to the ledge and then a run out across easier ground. Two bolts and
anchor.
Phil Higgins
7. Cold Fusion (15) 11m
The easiest line on this wall. A delicate start to bigger jugs. Climb though good holds
to an anchor shared with #6. Protected by two bolts.
Phil Higgins
8. Fatboy (16) 11m
The wandering route that starts in the gully. Climb to the bolted boulder, clip the
hanger and then carry on up through jugs to the DRB.
Phil Higgins
Warratah Wall Right Side
From Warratah Left Side scramble up the hillside to the base of the boulder that
comprises Cable Right Side.
9. Konichiwa Two (22) 6m
The face route high above the others. Start from a boulder embedded on the hill side
and pass two bolts to mantle a ledge. Climb through the face and past one more bolt
to a shared anchor with the next route to the right.
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges
10. Short Crack (15) 7m
12. Geisha Girlz (16) 8m
The juggy line through the weakness on the blunt arete.
13. Hangdog Whipper (19) 8m
Start off the low boulder and over the bulge to the bolt (don't miss this clip!). Straight
up to the DRB anchor.
Phil Higgins
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
Climb the line of bolts to the right of the crack. Three bolts to anchor.
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges
11. Nami (16) 8m
The leftmost line on the bolder. Start at the left corner and climb tending right to the
DBC anchor shared with the route below.
Chris Devenoges, Phil Higgins
MT MAUNGANUI - 4
Figure 4: Mike Memorial Wall Left
Mike Memorial Wall
Contining past the Warratah Wall and 30 metres down the access track is the
largest face on the Mount, the middle section of which protrudes right on to the
path. To the left is a spot to drop your bags and several fun routes steeper than
at Cables. A nice progression from the Cables Wall and a good spot if your your
looking for longer routes.
14. Midori Illusion (17) 10m
The right most route on this face, climb off above the flax bush past four bolts to a DRB
anchor.
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges
15. Mike Memorial (16) 10m
Through the weak line on the blunt arete to a anchor shared with the route to the left.
Three bolts to the anchor. Originally a trad climb during the FA, Mike Avard took a fall
from the top moves onto a horizontal hex at half height. His belayer jumping back to
the path gave him a comfortable three feet from the ground!
Mike Avard, Phil Higgins, John Murray 83
16. Mono (20) 10m
The first clip is the peg,keep climbing past two bolts and the bulge to anchor.
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges
17. Roland Gerade Gemacht (20) 10m
Takes the centre line and passes left of the broken flake near the bottom of the crag.
Well protected crux but some spaced holds, climb past three bolts to the anchor.
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges
18. The Shoulder (18) 10m
Steeper than you'd expect but good holds up there. This line takes the face
immediately left of the obvious chimney. Four bolts and well worth the outing.
Phil Higgins, Inga Rechel
19. Dropkick Wizzer (18) 22m
Walk past the gully and back down on to the path, there are variations on the start of
this route, so choose your own. This wandering route moves through the small roof
and up over the arete moving left. Stick to the arete through fantastic airy moves and
a run out finish.
Phil Higgins, Dave Vass
20. Cosmic Baby (21) 22m
Takes the direct line through the roof and headwall. Sustained moves at the top of
this route, keep left of the cleft at the top of the face. Nine bolts.
Phil Higgins
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
Phil Higgins
MT MAUNGANUI - 5
Tsunami (17) 22m
Figure 5: Mike Memorial Wall Right Side
This route is a variation of 'Surfs Up'. Start at the glue directly to the right of the start
of 'Cosmic Baby', pull the roof past two more and move right to join 'Surfs Up'. A must
do route and best at the grade at the Mount.
21. Surfs Up (17) 22m
A wandering route that passes through the weakness in the roof from right to left.
Long slings will help with the rope drag as you move right up the ramp on great
holds. Move left again to the cleft in the rock and up to a shared anchor with Cosmic
Baby, eight bolts. It has an easy but exposed finish.
Phil Higgins, Ian Graves
The Great Rock and Roll Trundle (18) 22m
The distinctive crack up the face and through the overhang. All trad baby til you clip
the anchor of Scott's Climb. Legend has it origanally sent in Mum's slippers!
Roland Foster, Marty Beare 81
23. Scott's Climb (20) 22m
Some would say the best route on the Mount. This outing is unmissable - just look for
the six shiny ringbolts though the roof.
Big Fanny (16) 22m
Brought a rack? This trad line takes the crack system to the right of Scott's Climb.
Follow the right most of the two c racks. It doesn't see a lot of trafiic so maybe dirty at
times.
Phil Higgins, John Murray 82
25. Wongi's Wife (19) 16m
This balancey route requires a little less grunt and more finesse than the last offerings.
Protected by five bolts, start from the broken ground and move up keeping right of
the seam to a DRB.
26. De Homme Semence (18) 16m
Takes the centre of this face and shares a DRB with #25. A high first clip, use your feet
on his delicate number past three bolts.
Chris Deveoges
27. Au Vue (18) 16m
Starts in the weak band of rock. Climb to the right of the seam until the ledge until
finishing atthe ledge and anchor. Four bolts.
Phil Higgins
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
28. Skinny and Fatty (17)
The trad line to the right of the bolted face routes.
Mike Briggs
MT MAUNGANUI - 6
From Mike Memorial wall walk up the path 20 metres to the next bend in the path.
Here is a prominent arete with a flat face at it's base. The top right hand side of
this face has a large sculpted hole with honeycomb features. This arete looks
back towards Mike Memorial right side and there are a few routes in it's vicinity.
Simone (17) 12m
Starting from the base of the face and climbing direct, or from the short arete to it's
left climb easy ground to the high first clip then continue up and right through
featured terrain to the blunt arete above the sculpted hole. Climb up and left to the
ledge and DRB anchor. Five bolts.
Phil Higgins
On the other side of the 'Simone' arete are two routes with a shared start. Some of the
rock at top of these two may be loose so climb with care.
Left Route (20)
From the path, easy climbing up to the first bolt and then traverse right and up to the
horizontal break. Climb the leftmost route past six bolts in total..
Right Route (22)
Takes the right most line, follow the line of bolts keeping left of the crack.
Keep walking past this area until you reach a set of stairs further up the path. At
the top of these stairs are two short routes, as pictured right.
31. Dolt (20) 9m
Straight off the scoop keep left of the arete and jam the crack with carefully placed
feet. Chisel fingers help. Up thin moves past the second bolt to rap off the DBC on the
small ledge. The rock quality in this area is not great!
Phil Higgins 02
32. Grimper (24) 7m
Keep to the right of the arete and climb steep moves past two bolts. Good holds.
Phil Higgins 02
Walking past these shorties keep an eye peeled for the face with rusty pegs on it,
up to your left. This is:
Forgotten (14) X
Scrambble up to the face to the grassy ledge and then climb up past three rusty pegs,
between the two seams . Warning these pegs are quite old and should not be
trusted to hold a fall!
www.freeclimb.co.nz . Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
Figure 6: Short Routes
MT MAUNGANUI - 7
Flesh Buttress
From Mike Memorial there are several scattered lines on your way to the Flesh
Buttress. Just before the route 'Gentic' there is a band of rock sith two large
scoops in it, this is the Flesh Buttress. Between and above the scoops is a black
streak, while a yellow streak runs up to the right. From the left most scoop there
is a sport line running up throught the black streak. There are two partily bolted
lines out to the right of this - be warned they are half protected unfinished projects
and climbers risk serious injury using this area. The last climb recorded in this
band of rock is:
Fleischbeschau (22) 20m
Looks dead easy from the the ground. Up the easy slab to the scoop and first bolt.
Follow the black streak up past five more bolts to the anchor. Nice climbing, keeping
just right of the seam the whole way.
Phil Higgins 02
Directly past Flesh Buttress is the last area on the Oruahine track, pictured right.
Ulex Europeaus (14) R
The obvious offwidth to the left of Gentic. This traditionally protected route has poor
protection and if you hold your toungue right a porr anchor can be arranged at the
top. Still keen? Thutch your way to glory.
Mike Briggs, Phil Higgins, John Murray
33. Gentic (18) 13m
The last sport route before the summit. This sport route skirts the edge of the scoop
and continues up past six bolts to end 3/4 of the way up the face at the DBC anchor.
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges
Gogarth (15) R
This wandering trad route starts around the arete from Gentic. At the base of the
scoop traverse out right to the ledge and then up the RHS of the massive scoop to the
bushes and build an anchor.
Phil Higgins, John Murray
Last but not least... on the far side of the island, hidden in the bush near the
shore is the following route.
Green Room (23)
The steep sport route with the chain link hangers.
Robb Moore
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
Figure 7: Gentic
MT MAUNGANUI - 8
Le Altar and the Move Buttress
Two great little crags located above the access track - sadly access is currently
closed to both. The information here is for historical purposes only and this
author urges climbers to respect the current climbing ban here so as not to
endanger access to all climbing areas. Le Altar is located above the Cables Wall
and the Move Buttress is located near the summit in the vicinty of the windsock.
40. Que Es Mas Macho? (23) 9m Dave Vass May 86
41. Gorse 101 (19) 9m
Phil Higgins
42. Phil 101 (18) 9m
Dave Vass
43. Auto Erotic Wonder Move (23) 9m Phil Higgins
44. Gordon is a Moro (22) 15m
34. Voluptous (16) 9m Chris Devenoges, Phil Higgins Dec 93
35. Astrolabe (20) 10m
Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges Dec 93
36. Weeping (25) 13m
Phil Higgins
37. The French Way (21) 17m Phil Higgins, Chris Devenoges Dec 93
38. Trance Route (25) 17m
Phil Higgins
39. Litigation (21) 19m Chris Devenoges Dec 93
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
Dave Vass
MT MAUNGANUI - 9
Mt Maunganui Index of Climbs by Grade
Page
GRADE 19
Ulex Europeaus
GRADE 15
7
#5 Unnamed
Hangdog Whipper
Wongi's Wife
Gorse 101
Cold Fusion
Short Crack
Gogarth
Forgotten
3
3
6
7
Name
GRADE 14
GRADE 16
Sans Travail
Fatboy
Geisha Girlz
Mike Memorial
Big Fanny
Voluptous
3
3
3
4
5
8
GRADE 17
Cables I
EEC
Dreamweaver
Midori Illusion
Tsunami
Surfs Up
Skinny and Fatty
Simone
2
2
3
4
5
5
5
6
GRADE 18
The Shoulder
Dropkick Wizzer
The Great Rock and Roll Trundle
Au Vue
De Homme Semence
Genetic
Phil 101
4
4
5
5
5
7
8
www.freeclimb.co.nz. Number One, for up to date Rocking Climbing Information.
2
3
5
8
GRADE 20
Short Arete
Mono
Roland Gerade Gemacht
Scott's Climb
Left Route
Dolt
Astrolabe
2
4
4
5
6
6
8
GRADE 21
Cosmic Baby
The French Way
Litigation
4
8
8
GRADE 22
Konichiwa Two
Right Route
Fleischbeschau
Gordon Is A Moro
3
6
7
8
GRADE 23
Green Room
Que Es Mas Macho?
Auto Erotic Wonder Move
67
8
8
GRADE 24
Grimper
6
GRADE 24
Weeping
Trance Route
8
8