The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club June 2015

Transcription

Mid~Atlantic Koi
The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club
June 2015
Mid~Atlantic Koi
The Membership Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club
Volume 28, Number 10
June 2015
—Upcoming Events
Central Chapter Meetings . . . . . . . . .47
Long Island Chapter Meetings . . . . .47
Saugerties Chapter Meetings . . . . . .47
South Chapter Meetings . . . . . . . . . .47
Beginner’s Corner - Chlorine . . . . . . . . .7
MAKC Corporate Members . . . . . . . . . .8
Introducing Narita Koi Farms Japan . . .9
Courtesy of Hikari USA
Koi Anatomy – Part 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16
—MAKC News
President’s Message . . . . . . . .4
MAKC Health
Hotline Volunteers . . . . . . . . .4
From the Editor’s Desk . . . . .6
Sunshine Column . . . . . . . . .45
Treasurer’s Report . . . . . . . .46
F..A..S..T Ads . . . . . . . . . . . . .48
Ad Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .49
Spike Cover , California
Pond Spotlight:
Bill and Linda Montgomery . . . . . . . . .21
Linda Montgomery, Oregon
Copper Toxicity in Ponds . . . . . . . . . . .24
Meyer Jordan
Evolution of a Koi Keeper:
One Man’s Journey . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Steve Childers, AKJA Judge
Mid-Atlantic Koi Deadlines
for Articles, Meeting Announcements and Ads
July Issue Deadline:
Available Online:
June 1
July 1
Versatile Plants from Your
Water Garden to Your Landscape . . . . .32
Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway
Fish Nutrition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
Ed Keene, DCAS
August Issue Deadline:
Available Online:
July 1
August 1
Ozone and Its Uses in Koi Keeping . . .37
Malcolm Green, England
Fan Tail Fish Goldfish . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42
American Goldfish Association
On the Road to a Koi Event . . . . . . . . . .46
Pond Spotlight
Page 21
Picture to Share -Horoscope . . . . . . . . .50
MAKC Membership Application . . . . .51
Photo Linda
Montgomery
Page 2 Mid-Atlantic Koi
MAKC Ballot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .52
June 2015
P r e s i d e n t ’s
Message
by Joann Mead
MAKC Ballot
on Page 52
[email protected]
t is election month for the new
2015/2106 Executive Committee!
We will be emailing the ballots to all
Club members. This way anyone who
cannot attend the Annual meeting in
Long Island on Sunday June 14, 2015 at
Club member’s Bernie Szer’s home can still
participate in the election process. We are
only as strong as our members!
I
Sunday, June 8, 1986, the first meeting of the
Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC) was held at
John and Helen File's home in Philadelphia,
Pennsylvania. On June 8, 2016 MAKC will
be 30 years old! This makes us one of the
oldest running Koi clubs on the east
coast and it will be our diamond jubilee
anniversary!
To celebrate this we are going to have a
Koi Show in 2016 at Quality Koi, in
Carneys Point, NJ. We are in the early
stages of planning and when more
information becomes available we will
notify everyone.
Joann
MAKC’s website has
been updated. Have you
taken a look yet?
www.makc.com
Be sure to vote for your club’s leadership and
remember we always appreciate your help.
Raffle August 16th
Reef Radiance has generously donated a
Seneye Pond Monitor and Web Server with
WIFI Module to the Club and we are going to
raffle the whole system, a $429.00 value!
The raffle tickets are $10.00 each and the
drawing will be held on Sunday, August 16,
2015 at the Saugerties Chapter meeting.
http://reefradiance.com/seneye.html
MAKC Health
Hotline Volunteers
Tom Burton
Jan & Bill Fogle
Terri Janas
Jeff Nicholson
Middletown, NJ
Wayne, PA
Ashburn, VA
Odenton, MD
732-671-7045
610-687-3105
703-729-2988
301-912-1928
All members have microscopes and health
books. In the event of a recorded message,
please suggest a time when you're home to
receive a return call or when you'd like to
call back.
Please remember that advice is given based
on your input–the ultimate responsibility
and treatment must remain with you.
June 2015
MAKC Executive Committee
President
Joann Mead
(845) 389-5712
[email protected]
Vice-President
Herb Ehrich
(845) 247-7105
[email protected]
Secretary
Looking for a Volunteer
Treasurer
Anthony Vitale
(516) 420-0740
[email protected]
Central Chapter Vice-President
Bruce Damme (302) 598-8431 [email protected]
Remember to
Renew Your
Membership
Long Island Chapter Vice-President
Bruce Levine
(516) 735-2644
[email protected]
Saugerties (NY) Chapter Vice-President
Herb Ehrich
Alan Mickelson
(845) 247-7105
[email protected]
South Chapter Vice-President
(301) 332-7042 [email protected]
Standing Committees
Richard Douglass
Membership
(845) 723-4373
[email protected]
MAKC Sales
Looking for a Volunteer
MAKC Notice Group Manager
Michael Snyder
Sarah Johnson
(301) 762-2059 [email protected]
WebMaster
(732) 567-6678
[email protected]
Executive Board
Advisor y C ommittee
Joe Zuritsky (215) 575-4001
Eric Wilson
[email protected]
(443) 203-6486
[email protected]
Don’t Wait – Do it Today.
Renewal form you can
print out is on page 51.
MAKC Home Page: http://www.makc.com
Production: Cindy Graham, NextUp Creations
Mid-Atlantic Koi is the magazine of the
Mid-Atlantic Koi Club. Material is
selected for its interest to Koi keepers.
MAKC accepts no responsibility for
accuracy of content. Reproduction of
uncopyrighted articles is permitted as
long as this magazine is credited as
the source.
June 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Magazine
Editor, Carolyn Weise
(239) 573-6650 x105 [email protected]
Advertising Editor, Joann Mead
(845) 389-5712
Meeting/Events Editor, Carolyn Weise
(239) 573-6650 x105
FAST Ads Editor, Joann Mead
( 845) 389-5712
[email protected]
[email protected]
[email protected]
Mid-Atlantic Koi Page 5
From the Editor’s Desk
by Carolyn Weise
[email protected]
his issue illustrates just how
fascinating and intricate the Koi
hobby can be. In last month’s issue,
we enjoyed Herb Ehrich’s journey
into the hobby and viewed Barry
Hixson’s lovely pond. This month we have true
stories from Steve Childers and Linda
Montgomery as they share what they have
learned about Koi keeping.
T
Malcolm Green discusses his venture into
adding ozone filtration to his two ponds, which
is fascinating. Being only human, I want to
experience everything in the hobby and only
want the best for my
fish. Maybe
ozone could be
next, who
knows? If you
are not up for
ozone yet, maybe
adding more
plants to your
pond or stream is
the answer to balancing the system. Where
there’s a will, there’s a way.
Please patronize our sponsors and advertisers.
One day we may even have a printed magazine
again. Show them you care. And send me your
thoughts, your questions and your photos
to share.
Enjoy your June issue, enjoy your pond and get
the most out of your Koi!
Yours in Koi!
Carolyn
Ozone System Installed in Florida
June 2015
Beginner’s Corner – Chlorine (a Deadly Koi Killer)
Ask a question and we will get you an answer.
Remember any questions you have are welcome,
Just send them in to the editor.
Q.
A.
What will Chlorine do to my Koi?
Answer provided by Don Harrawood,
Southwest Koi and Pond Association
Measurement
Chlorine (Cl), measured in parts per million
(ppm), is a gas which has been added to tap
water to control harmful bacteria. City provided
tap water is normally found to have 0.5 to 3.0
ppm, but higher surges are sometimes observed.
Some city water supplies can still be found that
either do not require chlorination or may have
the chlorine removed before the water is distributed. Chlorine would not be of concern to those
who take their water directly from a private well.
Droplet and pill test kits are available to test for
chlorine. Recommended test kit range is
0 - 4 ppm. A chlorine test kit is not considered
necessary for the average pond once established.
Acceptable concentration 0f Chlorine:
Zero (0)
Effects
Chlorine is a quick killer in fairly low concentrations (less than 0.5 ppm). Even in very small
concentrations, it burns the edges of the gills
with long term after effects. It also can be deadly
to the bio-converter bacteria.
Treatment
In an open container, water will release about 1/4
of the chlorine concentration per day to the air .
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Water that has set in an open container for a
week or just for a couple days if aerated, is
normally safe to use or better yet, pre-treat tap
water with one of the commercial chemical
products such as sodium thiosulfate.
Most Frequent Koi deaths by chlorine occur
when the pond owner refills their pond or tank
during a water change with chlorinated water
and allows the system to overfill. An example of
this is leaving a hose running and forgetting to
shut it off. This seems to happen to most
everyone sometime during their term as a
Koi hobbyist.
This same overfilling process can kill good
bacteria inside filters if left running during the
refilling process. When refilling, it is advisable to
set an alarm or to use a water metering device
that allows only a selected amount of water to
pass before shutting the water supply off.
If you have overfilled, add de-chlorinator as soon
as possible in an attempt to save the fish. Even
though no fish die immediately as a result of over
chlorinating, the after effect of damaged gills
caused by chlorine can cause fish to die later. !
Note: This column offers suggestions only; the
ultimate care of your pond and fish is up
to you.
Wanted – Your Questions
Please email your questions to
[email protected].
MAKC
Corporate
Members
Quality Koi Company
Nisei Koi Farm
856-299-7564
[email protected]
www.qualitykoi.com
www.mazuri.com
Interested in becoming a Corporate Member?
Reasonable one time fee for the year – includes a Business Card size ad in all issues in this section and on the
MAKC website.
Contact Joann Mead at 845-389-5712 or [email protected]
June 2015
Introducing Narita Koi Farms Japan
Courtesy of Hikari USA
his time we interviewed Mr. Ryuki
Narita of Narita Koi Farms Japan
which is one of the top dealers in the
country. A large number of Koi
Narita Koi Farms Japan have raised,
have been winners at various Koi shows in and
out of the country. We hope to get some insight
in to their superior Koi raising skills.
T
About Narita Koi Farms Japan
History and Business Background
Since they started their Nishikigoi business in
1971 they have become an industry leader.
Mr. Ryuki Narita, president of the firm, personally visits Koi breeders throughout the country in
an effort to find the most promising Koi to add
to their offering. He keeps a keen eye for promising Koi, which when raised with the special care
they can provide, have the potential to truly
excite Koi lovers when they first see them. Their
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eye for promising Koi is so special that they have
come to be known as "Narita the connoisseur
of Koi."
They have developed several Koi raising skills,
which help them easily meet the various
demands of even the most discriminating Koi
lovers. Furthermore, they have established a
special bond with many of the leading Koi
breeders that they are frequently allowed to see
their secret Koi; those special Koi the breeders
reserve for only their very best customers.
Narita Koi Farms Japan holds a Koi auction twice
a year, each spring and fall, providing an occasion
June 2015
Narita Raised Grand Champions at the All Japan Koi Shows
The 37th Show, 2006
The 38th Show, 2007
Breeder: Sakai Fish Farm
Breeder: Dainichi Koi Farm
Owner: Mr. Martin Plows & Mr. Mark Crampton
Owner: Mr. Katsuo Shibayama
This is the first Narita-raised Koi to
win Grand Championship.
This is the second consecutive year that a
Narita-raised Koi won Grand Championship.
for Koi breeders and Koi lovers to meet face to
face. Many amateur Koi keepers enjoy bidding at
auction while the breeders of the prized entries
watch. The breeders also have an opportunity to
discuss the strong points of their Koi with the
June 2015
potential buyers by personally answering their
questions.
Narita Koi Farms Japan does not breed Koi
themselves, but are rearing experts who can
Narita Raised Grand Champions at the All Japan Koi Shows
The 41st Show, 2010
The 43rd Show, 2012
Owner: Mr. Masao Kato
Owner: Mr. Jitsuro Takagi
A Niigata-born Koi wins at a Niigata held
All Japan Koi Show.
Once again a Narita-raised Koi wins
Grand Championship.
transform ordinary Koi in to award winners with
great consistency. They work diligently to
maintain an adequate stock of Koi from
renowned breeders so they can consistently offer
excellent quality Koi to their customers. They
continually strive to strike a good balance
between the Koi breeders expectations and
Koi lovers demands.
Koi Developmental Specialist
and Dealer
The name of Narita Koi Farms Japan name is
often commonly mentioned at Koi shows. If a
Koi breeder is the parent of a Koi, a company like
Narita Koi Farms Japan is the foster parent. At
the 43rd All Japan Koi Show 2012, Narita Koi
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Farms Japan had more
than 230 Koi raised at
their facility on display.
At this show they had
the largest number of
entries and they swept
most awards.
Future of Koi
Keeping as a
Hobby
Q: Please let us know
your vision as a Koi
dealer-rearer
We are pursuing our
main business of maintaining a stock of promising Koi and tending to
them in order to win awards at Koi shows. At the
same time I am concerned that the value of Koi
in the eyes of the judges has become cut and
dried. I feel strongly that we should offer Koi
lovers a variety of Nishikigoi to allow them to
maximize their enjoyment and allow them to
choose their own way when deciding which fish
to keep. We sell very reasonably priced Koi, as
well as high class Koi such as Gosanke and offer
more than 70 other varieties. No Koi has the
same markings and each Koi lover can find a Koi
to fit their own unique taste. On the Internet we
offer Koi with very unique markings, which
always sell well. We also want to convey the
charm of smaller-size Koi, which can be kept in
regular home aquariums.
award. This line is a very useful and reliable food
with predictable quality and efficient ingredients.
You don't need to add any other nutrients to find
success. We use a number of the Saki-Hikari®
varieties by blending them according to the
season. The exact ratio of the mixture for each
time of year is part of our special expertise. !
Narita Koi Farm Co., LTD
http://www.narita-koi.com
Daily feeding and putting our finishing
touches on the Koi
Q: Do you think what the Koi is fed has an effect
on its ultimate development?
Yes, the food has a significant impact. I recommend the Saki-Hikari® series food for those
looking to have a chance to win a Koi show
June 2015
June 2015
June 2015
Koi Anatomy – Part 3
by Spike Cover , California
Lateral Line
The lateral line runs along the side of the Koi
about midway down the side of the fish. Holes in
the scales lead to a canal beneath the surface that
contains neuromast cells. Water
movement in any direction
striking the sides of the fish will
cause the mucous in the canal to
vibrate. These vibrations stimulate the neuromast cells that are
linked to the periphery nerve
system and provide one the most
effective perceptions for survival
(flight reaction).
The lateral line is an important
landmark. It is at approximately
the same level as the spine, which has a blood
vessel that runs along the length of the spine just
ventral (underneath) to the spine and will be
important for locating the blood vessel.
Olfaction
that directs water into the forward opening of
the nare as the Koi moves forward in the water.
The movement of substances through the nares
is aided by diffusion and by the motion of small
hairs-like structures (cilia) within the nares. The
following illustration is slightly modified and
reprinted with the kind permission of
Koi Carp Magazine.
Taste:
Taste buds are numerous in and around the lips,
mouth and tips of the barbels. Koi have two pairs
of barbels. Three hundred years ago they had
three pairs.
The olfactory organs (used to smell) are located
at the base of the nostrils called nares. Water does
not flow to any other part of the body from the
nares. They are exclusively used for olfaction
(smelling), are paired and located between the
eyes and the mouth. They are shaped like and
can be thought of as small U-tubes into which
water enters through the leading or forward hole
and exits through the rear port or opening. Just
behind the forward opening there is a flap of skin
June 2015
June 2015
Internal Anatomy
The internal organs are placed approximately as
shown in the illustration page 17 (reproduced
with the kind permission of the authors of
Living Jewels).
While it is generally accepted that Koi do not
have a stomach (a wide hollow organ that functions to mix food with mucus, acid and digestive
enzymes), the first portion of the gut is elastic
and can be used to store food.
The Koi Skeleton drawing page 17 is taken from
the Tetra Encyclopedia of Koi and reproduced
with the kind permission of Interpet Publishing
Ltd. It was redrawn from the book by
Duncan Griffiths.
Muscle
Generally two types of muscle exists in Teleost
fish, white and dark muscle. The white muscle is
thought to be for fast quick swimming and the
dark muscle, located directly under the skin if for
sustained swimming.
Bones
Carp are Teleost fish which means literally “bony
skeleton” and carp are one of the boniest fresh
water fishes. Fish bones are thin and light weight
with no bone marrow in the center. A light
weight skeleton is advantageous to an animals
that needs to be buoyant to live in a water
environment.
The clinical significance of these different types
of muscle is that there is much different drug
kinetics when injections are made into them. It is
generally accepted that red muscle is well vascularized (has a good blood supply), which would
facilitate absorption of medicines into the blood
faster than white muscle, and sustain the release
since the blood flow is likewise sustained in
June 2015
comparison to white muscle which can create an
oxygen debt and requires a recovery period.
The gills also have specialized mucus-producing
cells, and chloride cells which function in mucus
production and osmoregulation, respectively.
Gills
The gills are a complex system made up of both
bony and cartilaginous stiffened arches. Each
side of the fish has four gill arches. On the
exterior side of the gill arch are the gill filaments,
which are made up of lamallae and secondary
lamellae structures, the latter being only 2µ thick.
It is these structures that are responsible for the
exchange of gases (O2/CO2) through the epithelial cells. The epithelial cells are the direct link
between the O2 in the water and the fish’s
blood stream.
The illustrations, on this page, were reproduced
with the kind permission of Paul Maslin.
June 2015
Covering the gill arches on the outside of the fish
is the operculum or gill cover. This is a multipurpose part of the Koi’s anatomy with the
primary function being to help control the
pressure of the water taken in through the mouth
and passed along the gill filaments.
Also found on the gill arches, but more to the
inside or anterior part of the arch, are the gill
rakers which act as food filters. Clogged rakers
are often the cause of flashing or head shaking as
the fish attempts to clear the gills of excess food
after eating.
Read more about Koi anatomy in the next issue.
!
June 2015
Pond Spotlight: Bill and Linda Montgomery
by Linda Montgomery, Oregon
eaders have requested hearing about
other members ponds, so I thought
I could start it off by sharing my
pond building experience. We have
had our pond for over 20 years now
but I can still remember how terribly clueless and
totally naïve we were in thinking that we were
going to have many years of tranquility and
relaxation in our backyard paradise!
R
Now, I don’t mean to be negative but I don’t
think that a Koi pond can ever be described as
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tranquil and relaxing…if you are not worried
about some predator after your beautiful Koi,
then you most likely are worried about a multitude of other issues; poor water quality, parasites,
a disease outbreak, the strange behavior of your
Koi, a leak, upgrading your filter…and the list
goes on and on.
Koi ponds are definitely not for the weak of heart
and certainly do separate the men from the boys!
This does not mean that we would not have built
a Koi pond if we had known what we were
getting into, in fact I (now notice that I said
“I” not “we”) have never regretted getting into
this wonderful hobby. The fish are so beautiful
and fun to watch, you are always learning new
and interesting things , and you meet so many
wonderful people. But I would really advise
anyone thinking of getting into the hobby to
really learn as much as possible and to become
a member of a Koi club before building a pond.
We started our pond well before we even knew
of any Koi clubs and had no idea what we were
getting into…
It all started over 22 years ago, with Bill and I
taking a trip to Builders Square (a local building
supply business similar to Home Depot), to get
some plants for the yard. In the garden section
they had this wonderful display of pre-formed
garden pools and
one black plastic
3-step waterfall—
and our ‘vision’
of a backyard
paradise materialized right in
front of us…
“Oh Bill,
wouldn’t that be
just perfect for
our yard!” But
before making
the big $300.00
move to purchase
our ideal waterfeature, we
decided to read
up and do a little
(very little)
research on
exactly what we
were getting
into…HA! Then
‘the real world of
ponding’ slapped
us with all the
other expenses
(and boy did these add up- $150.00-$200.00
worth), we thought that as long as we were going
to spend this much money, why not make it a
little larger…”Oh Bill, wouldn’t it be fun to have
a small pond with a little stream that goes into
another pond?” Looking back I realize now that
the poor boy really didn’t know what he was
getting into, but then neither did I. If only we
could go back to those earlier times, when we
were both so blissfully clueless and so wonderfully out of debt---we fondly refer to those times
as B.P. (Before Pond).
After that it just got crazier and crazier and
before we knew it, our little backyard weekend
project evolved into taking bids from contractors
for a large Koi pond, complete with filtration,
U.V. Lights and a plant budget—and life as we
June 2015
#5. Never trust a water meter when filling your
pond…we didn’t figure out that the one we
borrowed kept starting and stopping until
the lower pond filled and we said “That
can’t be right, I know that it is more than
4,000 gallons!” (our lower pond is ~
10,000 gallons).
#6. And always remember, it’s not just a pond,
it’s a lifestyle! Or as Bill always says “Why
build a pond? Just dig a hole and throw
your wallet in!”
knew it was forever changed! It took over three
months to complete the pond and many more
months to fill in the landscaping, but it was well
worth it. And of course we had lots of fun and
our share of what-not-to-do experiences in
getting there so here is a list of our pond Dos and
Don’ts:
#1. The obvious: Join a Koi Club and learn as
much as possible before starting to build
a pond.
#2. Know where your sewer line is, for if it can
be broken once, it can be broken twice in
the same day!
#3. Don’t trust your contractor-they are evil
(except Tony, of course!). Do not leave
those guys alone for a minute or fall for
their ploys to get rid of you for a couple of
hours…such a cheap trick! Mine even told
me to stop reading those books, that information is old…you don’t need a bottom
drain, or an out of pond pump, or a
skimmer, or even a pad for your pond liner
for that matter.
#7 You may not want to read anymore pond
spotlights or you may decide to chuck the
whole idea!
But on an up-note…through all the headaches
and problems in building a pond one fact
remains-when it is finished and your water
finally clears, so you can actually see and enjoy
your fish, all that you went through to get to that
point seems insignificant. And in our case, if it
hadn’t been for the Koi clubs and the special
people in them, I have no doubt that our pond
would not be functioning at all (or at least the
Koi wouldn’t be!).
When we joined the Koi club (about half-way
through our construction) we never imagined
meeting such a wonderful group of giving and
sharing people and we’ve made friends that we
are sure will be with us the rest of our lives…if
they can take us that long! !
#4. Never think that you have enough rocks,
and speaking of rocks never think that you
can’t drop a half-ton boulder on your pond
liner…thank goodness the track hoe took
most of the punishment!
June 2015
Copper Toxicity in Ponds
by Meyer Jordan
Are Pond Ionizers Safe? You be the Judge
Certain manufacturers of Pond equipment
decided to borrow a technology from the
Swimming Pool industry and, with maybe some
minor tweaks, promote it as an exciting breakthrough in controlling Pond algae. Presenting the
IONIZER!
Through the controlled release of Copper, Zinc
and Silver ions into the pond’s water column,
algae growth can be controlled and in many cases
eliminated. This, on the surface, is great news for
Pondkeepers. No longer is it necessary to use
expensive and hard-to-correctly-measure chemicals. Just set the Ionizer to the desired level and
algae disappears.
Sounds great! However, there is more to be
considered than just what the advertisements
claim. What are the other potential and likely
results from use of this device that the manufacturers are not telling us?
Let’s look at some of the manufacturers’ claims
as regards Ionizers.
Company #1
Destroys Bacteria
Kills Algae
Reduces chemical cost
Eliminates chemical odors
Reduces maintenance
Environmentally Friendly
Costs pennies per month
Helps reduce filtration
Fish safe
Includes 2˝ T Fitting
Company #2
Safe for fish and plants
Low maintenance
Clears water without the use of harsh
chemicals
Easily installed in any new or existing
water feature
Treats ponds up to 25,000 gallons
Level of mineralization is controlled by
the LED panel
Cast mineral anodes are self-cleaning
1 year warranty
Company #3
Drastically reduces pond maintenance
Crystal clear water without the use of
chemicals
Eliminates unsightly water conditions
Simple to install
Safe for fish and plants
Not toxic to animals that may drink from
the pond
Energy efficient (less than $ 1 a month in
electricity cost)
Treats ponds up to 25,000 gallons
Understandably, the first concern of a Pondkeeper is whether a product or treatment is safe
for fish. All three (3) of these manufacturers
declare that the (proper) use of this device is safe
for fish. Let’s take a closer look at this claim.
All Three (3) manufacturers include test strips
for monitoring Copper levels with Two (2) of the
manufacturers recommending maximum
Copper levels at 0.25 mg/L and the remaining
manufacturer recommending 0.30 mg/L as the
maximum level of Copper.
June 2015
Copper is a heavy metal and in low concentrations can be toxic. In addition, like other heavy
metals, such as Mercury, it is a bio-accumulate.
This means that once it is ingested by an
organism it remains in that organism for an
extended period of time, in many cases, for life.
Any additional ingestion only increases the level
that is already present in the organism until
eventually a certain level of toxicity is reached.
For terrestrial organisms, this level is determined
primarily by the ingestion of food and water, but
for aquatic organisms, if the Copper is in suspension as ions, it may be ingested during the respiration process also, as is the case with fish,
juvenile amphibians, certain insect larvae, true
aquatic invertebrates and bacteria as well as the
target taxa of algae. In the case of fish, it causes
increased mucous production on the skin and
the gills where it eventually interferes with the
respiration process by blocking the absorption
of Oxygen.
In assessing the potential toxicity of any
substance to any organism, two (2) distinct levels
must be determined, acute (immediate short
term) and chronic (long term). Heavy metals
have long been known to play an important
beneficial and crucial role in animal and plant
physiology, but at levels so low that they are
undetectable by standard testing.
Considerably greater attention has been given, in
recent years, to the effect of Heavy Metals and
other chemical compounds on the environment.
Research is ongoing in both the public and
private sector. This research has resulted in some
universally accepted toxicity levels as regards
Heavy Metals.
The focus here will be on Copper. Copper, after
Mercury, is the most toxic of the Heavy Metals.
Copper’s toxicity is greatly influenced by water
Hardness and pH. As water Hardness and ph
increase, the toxicity of Copper is reduced. Here
is an example of a couple of simple formulae that
June 2015
are used to define the accepted level of Copper in
fresh water.
Maximum Copper levels (in micrograms) at
any time—0.094(hardness)+2 (where water
Hardness is reported as mg/L CaCO3.
30 day average Copper levels (in micrograms)—0.04 average hardness (where
water Hardness is reported as mg/L
CaCO3.
(Environmental Protection Division, Ministry
of Environment, Government of
British Columbia)
Note - There are other formulas used by
different government entities worldwide, but
the final accepted levels of Copper vary by only a
few micrograms.
Using these two (2) formulae, in water with a
Hardness of 120 ppm for example, we find the
recommended Copper levels to be 13 micrograms/L at any one time and the 30 day average
should not exceed 5 micrograms/L Knowing that
one milligram equals 1000 micrograms, these
results expressed in mg/L would be 0.013 mg/L
and 0.05 mg/L. These results appear to be on the
conservative side, but considering the fact that
some aquatic organisms have a very low
tolerance to Copper, these formulae are
quite appropriate.
These are the Metal Safe Limit levels as defined
in the Textbook of Fish Health: Copper
0.014mg/l More toxic in soft water; Zinc exacerbates toxicity; Combined both are dangerous;
Zinc 0.01mg/l Synergistic with copper; 0.15mg/l
In hard Water; Cadmium 0.03mg/l; Chromium
0.10mg/l; Lead 0.01mg/l In soft Water; 4.00mg/l
In hard Water; Silver 0.03mg/l (mg/l is the same
as ppm).
The author was unable to find any scientifically
set copper toxicity levels for Koi, but several
anecdotal sources were found that stated that Koi
begin to show copper toxicity at 0.03 ppm along
with the copper toxicity level for Koi at 0.3 ppm.,
which is at or extremely close to the Maximum
levels suggested by the manufacturers of these
devices. It should be stressed that no scientific
studies were found that substantiated these
levels. In fact, one study reported that Koi fry
were unaffected by Copper levels of 1.00 mg/L.
It is important, however, to know the signs and
symptoms of Copper toxicity in Koi. One of the
earliest effects of too much copper is apparent
fish hypoxia, the loss of ability to use oxygen.
Common symptoms of initial acute toxicity are
fish gasping, disoriented (ataxic) at the surface,
due to copper's hemolytic (blood cell splitting)
and mucus-producing effects. Copper is a
proteinaceous precipitant; that is, it causes your
fish to produce more mucus. This may aid the in
the suffocation or sloughing off of parasites, but
also interferes with respiration through their skin
and gills.
Of greater concern is the previously mentioned
fact that all heavy metals are bio-accumulates.
This accumulation leads to immunosuppression.
Fish are often observed suffering from bacterial
infections for no apparent reason. Water quality is
optimum but low levels of copper and/or zinc are
present. Metals are most toxic in low alkalinity
and pH. This allows for a higher concentration of
metal to remain dissolved. The accumulation over
time immunosuppresses the fish and allows the
normal pathogenic bacteria to gain the upper
hand leading to ulceration and possible
septicemia (bacteria in the bloodstream).
In eco-system ponds, along with the fish, the
toxicity of copper to all other aquatic organisms
is of equal importance. Considerably more data
is available on the effects of copper on fresh
water fauna due to the fact that they are present
in every natural waterway and their numbers and
diversity are prime indicators of the health of any
aquatic eco-system.
Copper is extremely toxic to most invertebrates
and the juvenile forms of most amphibians.
“Northern leopard frogs (Rana pipiens) were
exposed to environmentally relevant concentrations of copper in water (control and 5, 25, and
100 microg/L, as CuSO4) in a static renewal
system for 154 d from posthatch stage to metamorphosis. Tadpole survival, swimming
performance, percent metamorphosis, time to
metamorphosis, and survival during and time
required for tail resorption were negatively
affected in the 100-microg/L treatment.”
-Adverse effects of chronic copper exposure in
larval northern leopard frogs (Rana pipiens).
Chen TH, Gross JA, Karasov WH.
Available toxicity data on amphibians indicate
copper 96 h LC50 values calculated in tadpoles
ranged from 0.04 to 5.38 mg/L. Studies of other
aquatic organisms show 96 h LC50 values
ranging from 0.06 to 6.68 mg/L.
Representative toxicity levels for some other
fresh water organisms are - Most snails – 8 41 micrograms/L; Cladocerans (including
Daphnia) 5 - 213 micrograms/L; Amphipods 8 87 micrograms/L
Although the Mayfly is fairly sensitive to Copper,
the majority of insects that have aquatic larval
stages are tolerant, most notable Damselflies and
Dragonflies, which are always expected visitors to
any aquatic venue. These Odonates have the
ability to store heavy metals in their exoskeletons
where it remains harmless.
The inhibition, reduction or elimination of any
member group of the aquatic food chain will
have negative effects on the overall health of the
eco-system to a lesser or greater degree depending on which species are residents of that particular eco-system and their relative position in the
food web.. Nevertheless, any negative effect on an
aquatic eco-system’s food chain and/or diversity
will have deleterious effects on the entire system.
The only organisms that have not been discussed
are the bacteria, in particular, the nitrifying
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bacteria. The results of studies on the toxic
effects of Copper are quite surprising. Copper
and Zinc appear to be the least toxic of the
metals tested. Copper, at low levels, actually stimulates activity in Nitrobacter. At levels up to 0 50
mg/L the Copper ion has no toxic effect on
Nitrobacter. Instead, the stimulatory effect is
readily apparent...Apparently. At 0 50 mg/L
Copper has not reached the crossover point
where a chemical shows neither stimulatory nor
inhibitory effects. This, unfortunately, is not true
of Nitrosomonas. Growth of Nitrosomonas is
greatly inhibited (about 60%) by Copper concentrations of 0.20 ppm.
Growth of Nitrosomonas europaea in batch
and continuous culture (Skinner & Walker
1960)
Copper was also found to be one of the most
toxic metals to heterotrophic bacteria in
aquatic environments.
Sadly, company #1 is partially correct in
claiming that their ionizer “destroys
bacteria.”
In Conclusion
Based on the above data, we arrive at these facts-
The effects of relatively low (.20 ppm) Copper
levels on one of the main species involved
in Nitrogen conversion has the potential to
cause major problems in the form of
Ammonia spikes.
Considering the whole picture regarding the
impact that an Ionizer may have on an aquatic
eco-system, this author has no intention of
availing himself of its use. There are other
effective and absolutely safe ways of controlling
and/or eliminating algae. You, the reader, may
feel differently. After all, it’s your Pond and
your fish.
You be the judge! !
Update Nov. 29, 2012
There has long been a dearth of information
regarding the toxicity level of Copper in Koi
(Cyprinus carpio). Finally some figures are being
established by scientific research.
According to a recent research paper (Dietary
tryptophan changes serum stress markers,
enzyme activity, and ions concentration of wild
common carp Cyprinus carpio exposed to
ambient copper
Ionizers can indeed control and, in some
instances, eliminate many species of algae.
Fish Physiology and Biochemistry (2012) 38:
1419-1426 , October 01, 2012
Within the manufacturers’ suggested range of
use, 0 – 25/30 mg/L, neither Koi or Goldfish
should exhibit any immediate effects of
Copper toxicity. It has been shown that Koi
fry can tolerate levels of 1.00 mg/L. Due to
lack of any meaningful research, long term
(chronic) effects are unknown.
By Hoseini, Seyyed Morteza; Hosseini, Seyed
Abbas;Soudagar, Mohammad), Carp exposed to
10 mg/L Copper exhibited mortality rates of 21.7
± 7.6 % at 120 hours and 61.7 ± 10.4 % at 168
hours. Although this level of Copper is 40 times
the (claimed) maximum levels generated by
ionizers, I feel that it is safe to infer, because Cu is
a bio-accumulate, that depending on the usage
(level settings and duration of these settings) of
ionizers, that Koi/Carp would exhibit physiological and behavioral signs of toxicity much quicker
than was originally thought…months instead
of years. Hopefully more definitive figures will
be forthcoming. !
Copper at low levels is extremely toxic to
aquatic stages of most amphibians.
Most microorganisms exhibit toxic effects of
Copper at extremely low levels and, where
mortality does not occur, the effects are
compounded in second generations.
June 2015
Evolution of a Koi Keeper:
One Man’s Journey
by Steve Childers, former Editor of KOI USA and current AKJA Judge
ell, let’s just go to the garden
center and build a Koi pond!
Most Koi keepers start out as
water gardeners; buy one of
those books from the local
garden center that says building a pond is easier
than it looks. Lie number 1. It isn’t easy.
W
Digging cubic yards from the ground and wheel
barrowing it around is tough work. Hauling in
rock for the edging is just as tough. After a trip to
the ER for cuts and back strain(s), you have a
nice little pond, complete with shelves for pretty
plants. Now we attempt to add an electrical
outlet (more digging for the trench and we use
buryable cable). Now we drop in the submersible
and bucket filter and plug it in. The waterfall
isn’t what we pictured in our minds, not enough
flow even though the “expert” at the garden
center said the pump was perfect for what we
told him we wanted. Oh well, time to go back to
the garden center for some plants anyway.
Back home with 3 lilies, another pump and
bucket filter and some marginal plants, oh and a
couple of goldfish and a funny little 6" fish with
whiskers. In they all go and it looks great, enough
water over the waterfall, pretty plants and fish to
feed and look at.
Inside we go to get cleaned up. Just think, just
over a couple of weeks and we have a pond! After
cleaning up we go outside to feed our fish. Oh
no! All 3 are “belly up”! We scoop up the 3 dead
fish and place them in a bag and head back to the
garden center. The “expert” at the garden center
asks if we “de-chlorinated” the water? Huh,
de-chlorinate? He sells us some powdery stuff
and 3 more fish (2 goldfish and one of those
6˝ fish with “whiskers” labeled as “coy”). Home
we go, throw in some of that powdery stuff and
place the fish in the pond.
Next weekend we decide to do some planting
around the pond. The first shovel of dirt and the
waterfall quits. Oops, should have used conduit
to bury that electrical line! 3 more dead fish
because no one told us to use a Ground Fault
Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). Back to the garden
center (Am I enjoying Koi keeping yet?).
After a couple of weeks the water turns green and
the new fish are nowhere to be seen. Back to the
garden center. Another cash outlay and I have
this magical concoction that the “expert” says
will clear the pond up in a jiffy. The next day it’s
semi clear and I can see the fish.... a little.
Another week and its green again. After about
6 more weeks and 4 more trips to the garden
center for more of that magical concoction, the
water mystically clears over night. But now the
water over the waterfall has slowed to a trickle.
Looking at the bottom of the pond, I see all of
this “gunk” on the bottom and on the filter pads.
The pads are easy to clean after we finally get the
buckets out of the pond.
June 2015
Back to the garden center to find out how to get
all of that “pond pudding” out of the bottom.
The expert says to drain the pond and scoop it
out. We drain the pond, and catch the fish and
put them in a bucket. We scoop out the nasty
smelling pond pudding (are we enjoying the
pond yet?). After scrubbing all of that green
stuff off of the sides (got to make sure its really
clean) we refill the pond. Oh, don’t forget that
de-chlor stuff.
Another couple of weeks and the pond goes pea
green again, back to the garden center for that
clarifier stuff. Another 4 to 6 weeks and that clarifier stuff finally kicks in and the water is clear.
Now we can see little things hanging from the
sides and dorsal of the fish and that 6˝ fish with
whiskers is now 10˝ with a huge hole in its side.
Back to the garden center to talk to the “expert”.
He sells some medicated food and some
medicine to put in the pond that will kill
the parasites.
A few weeks go by and the goldfish are fine but
the cute little fish with whiskers has died from
the infection caused by the parasites.
Back to the garden center for another one of
those cute little fish with whiskers called “coy.”
Fall is setting in and its time to clean the pond
again…another 5 inches of pond pudding has
built up in the bottom and the filters and pumps
are clogged solid. The fish sit on the bottom all
winter and when spring begins to warm things a
little, we start feeding, not knowing that the
water temp is only 40 degrees still.
A few weeks go by and that cute little “coy” puffs
up like a balloon and then dies. Taking it back to
the garden center the “expert” (it’s a new expert
because the previous one went back to school the
previous spring). The new expert asks if the
“coy” had been fed recently and what the water
temp was. After the answer, he explains that the
June 2015
“coy” couldn’t digest the food in that cold of
water and it died from an internal infection.
Luckily a new shipment of “coy” have just
arrived...from Japan! Although the price is 5
times that of the previous “coy” (which have all
died), it is much prettier and out comes the
charge card.
After a few weeks, the water warms and turns
that terrible pea green color again. Back to the
garden center for that clarifier stuff. This time
another customer asks why that stuff is being
used. “To clear up the water, Duh”! With a
chuckle the other customer explains the filtering
cycle time is about 6 weeks…time for the good
bacteria to grow and deal with the ammonia and
nitrites/ nitrates. He further explains the benefit
of a UV light. Out comes the charge card again!
After re-plumbing the pond for the UV light, it’s
time to plug it in. The pumps shut down and the
UV light doesn’t come on. After checking the
breakers, it’s determined that the breaker is only
15 amps and the 2 pumps and UV exceed that
amount. Off to the hardware store for a 20 amp
GFCI breaker. The assistant there stops to see if
help is needed. It’s determined that the wire size
for the circuit isn’t big enough for a 20-amp
circuit so new wire (and conduit this time) are
needed. Out comes the charge card again.
Another weekend is spent running new electrical
lines. Are we enjoying the pond yet?
Finally, a clear pond! Time for some more of
those cute Japanese fish with whiskers called
“coy.” But first, time to clean the filter pads and
the pond pudding from the bottom again. What
a stinky mess; perhaps there is something at the
garden center to vacuum this gunk up with. Back
to the garden center and sure enough, there is a
pond vac and as long as we’re here, a few more of
those cute little Japanese “coy” with whiskers.
Summer sets in and all of these “coy” are
growing like weeds and its time to expand the
pond. Back to the garden center for a bigger liner.
While we’re there the expert sells us on a “bead
filter and a swimming pool pump,” explaining
that they are easier to clean. A couple of months
of digging, plumbing, and re-landscaping go by.
After a day or two, the bead filter clogs and it’s
time to backwash.
Backwashing becomes a daily chore through the
summer and the pond bottom still has to be
vacuumed once a month to keep the pond
pudding at bay. The next time at the garden
center there is a flyer about a “Koi Show” sponsored by the local “Koi club”. The “expert” is
asked what a “Koi” is and we feel stupid that they
are the same as “coy”. The “expert” suggests a
couple of books to read, “Tetra Koi
Encyclopedia,” for $24.95 and “Koi Kichi” for
$110. We opt for the cheaper one and are thrilled
reading it cover to cover.
A couple more weeks of back flushing the filter
everyday and it’s time to go see a Koi show. We
are awed at the beauty of the fish, just like the
ones in the book. Vendors are there and we opt
for a couple more Koi…of course, more expensive, out comes the charge card. Information is
obtained on the Koi club and we pay our
membership, determined to get to the next
meeting in 2 weeks.
About a week goes by and the new fish look sick
and are “itching” on the bottom. The older fish
are starting to do the same. By the time of the
Koi club meeting, they all have sores and appear
to be on death’s door.
Arriving at the club meeting at a member’s
house, we see a beautiful pond, about the same
size as ours except much deeper…. 4 – 6´
compared to our 2 •••´. Although our water is
clear, its nowhere near as clear as this pond. We
stand in awe over it. We ask the owner how he
keeps his water so clear and he shows us his
filters, a simple square sediment chamber,
June 2015
additional chambers with matting, then a pump.
After looking intently the question arises, “How
does the water get to the sediment chamber”? He
looks puzzled and says, “from the bottom drain”.
“Huh, bottom drain, what’s that?” we ask. We go
back to the pond and see in the bottom of the
pond a dome and he produces that expensive
book “ Koi Kichi” from his library and shows me
a diagram of his filtration system. We explain our
fish problems and being very kind he offers to
come and see the fish and pond the next day.
expand it and made it bigger. We wouldn’t have
ever had to clean the pond pudding off of the
bottom or spent countless hours cleaning filter
pads. We also wouldn’t have had to back flush
filters every day through the summer, but simply
open a valve to discharge the vortex and all of the
sediment. We wouldn’t have wasted our money
on clarifiers that didn’t do anything. We would
still have all the money we wasted on all of the
fish we killed. The hours spent could have been
spent “enjoying the Koi pond.”
Being very polite upon his arrival, he asks for a
net to catch the fish with. We don’t have one but
offer to drain the pond to catch them for him. He
produces a net from his truck and another large
plastic storage box. We catch the fish and he
sedates them one by one and gives them injections, pointing out that 2 are beyond any hope
and offers to put them to sleep permanently. He
also takes some scrapes and looks under the
microscope that he has with him and identifies
“gill flukes” as being the culprit. He turns my
pond purple with something … Potassium
per…ate and says that should do the trick. If not,
he has some other more expensive stuff. He again
recommends that expensive book. Are we
enjoying the pond yet?
If a person wants a water garden, great. Fill it
with plants and their pots that can scrape the
sides of Koi. They breed bacteria and parasites,
just waiting to attack Koi. They are too shallow
for Koi and the lack of bottom drains just
multiply all the rest of their problems for Koi. If
someone wants a Koi pond, then read a good
book, “Koi Kichi” being the best, plan on making
the pond twice as large as what you think you
want because if you don’t you will wish you had
and its cheaper to do it right the first time.
Later that day (after back flushing the filter), it’s
back to the garden center for that expensive
book, “Koi Kichi.” We realize then, that we do
not have a “Koi” pond, and also realize why we
have killed so many fish in just 2 short summers.
Gee, have we enjoyed the pond yet?
When someone of knowledge makes a suggestion
for you, listen and learn. Don’t try and justify
keeping Koi in a bad pond, just remember what
you learn and promise to do it right the next
time, because eventually you’ll want to ENJOY
YOUR POND instead of laboring over it. !
Author’s Note: The examples stated above are only
a portion of the true horror stories compiled over
the last 10 years from friends and myself.
Let’s see, for a start, if we had spent the extra
money on a good Koi book instead of a cheap
book on how to build a pond that said “It’s easier
than you think,” we could have had bottom
drain(s), settlement chambers (vortex), bio
chambers and an efficiency pool style pump. We
could have dug it to a proper depth (at least 4´,
preferably at least 6´), we wouldn’t have had to
June 2015
Versatile Plants from
Your Water Garden
to Your Landscape
by Lisa Burns, Backyard Getaway
id you know some of your favorite
garden plants can be added to your
water garden and that some of the
most common water garden plants
can be planted in your landscape?
D
Here are some of my favorites that I use
in both:
Papyrus (Cyperus): This is one of the easiest
plants to grow in a water garden & is
usually the first plant a pond installer will
put in your pond. It is a beautiful tall plant
that makes a nice backdrop for a tropical
garden. Papyrus can be a bit over powering
in a pond, especially the Umbrella and
Egyptian varieties. Papyrus spreads quickly
so you will need to keep an eye on it.
Taro (Colocasia) or Elephant ear is another
large plant with many varieties. Both
Colocasia & Alocasia will do well in the
ground or in the water. The key is to keep
them in very shallow water.
Mexican Petunia (Ruellia brittoniana) I use
this in my garden as a hedge and as a bog
plant in my pond. They will spread
quickly too.
Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) has a
beautiful red flower on top of a reddish
green stalk.A nice touch of color for your
pond or garden, they will die back in
June 2015
cooler weather but come back easily the
next season.
Iris: There are over 260 species of Iris; many
are true aquatic plants while others can be
used in both situations like the blue flag.
Yellow flag Iris are often used in natural
ponds for water purification. They are very
aggressive growers and can grow to 6' tall so
be careful in your water garden.
Canna is one of my favorites with large broad
leaves & bright yellow, orange, red and even
striped flowers. Bengal tiger (striped
flower), Endeavor and flaccida work
wonderfully in both the garden &
water garden.
Society garlic (Tulbaghia violacea) a low
bunching plant with lovely lavender
flowers. Also helps to repel biting bugs in
your garden.
Obedient plant (Physostegia virginiana) is a fun
plant. It is called obedient plant because
you can move each flower on its stalk to
whichever direction you like & it will stay.
Chameleon plant (houttuynia cordata) lovely
low plant with color changing leaves. As the
weather cools, the leaves turn a dark
maroon-purple. This is a nice plant for a
container garden.
Calla Lily (Zantedeschia) is a tender plant that
is hardy to zone 6. Some varieties do not do
well in the pond. The spotted leaf variety
with white flower does beautifully in water
garden or as a house plant. !
Lisa Burns of Backyard Getaway our website is
backyardgetaway.net.
Butterfly ginger (Hydychium coronatium) is a
tall plant with large white flowers that smell
like ginger. They do well in full and part
sun and are a wonderful addition to your
butterfly garden.
Hibiscus has many varieties that will work
equally well in the garden and pond. The
marsh mallow has large pink flowers and
loves moist soil.
Horsetail (Equisetum hyemale) is one of my
favorites. Tall black banded green stalks that
resemble a small bamboo. This is an aggressive spreader too & is best kept in a pot but
can also be used as a hedge or border.
Crinum (Crinum sp) grows from a bulb is also
known as bog lily, spider lily or swamp lily.
They do well in the garden but should be
kept moist. They will not do well in
colder climates.
June 2015
It's as easy as A B C . . . Pond Basic Concepts . . .
Fish Nutrition
by Ed Keene (DCAS) Adapted for Ponds by Carolyn Weise
efore we talk about specific fish foods
and the various ways they are offered,
i.e. flake, pellet, frozen, etc., a
discussion of fish nutrition in general
is in order. Despite all of the scientific
research and books which have been published
on this topic, there is a great deal of information
we still do not know about fish nutrition.
Scientists have only researched a couple dozen
fish in great detail to determine their nutritional
requirements. For the rest of the fish, they are in
part simply guessing.
B
nutritional foods for the type of fish I keep, how
in the world can I?" Quite honestly, you can't.
However, there are multiple things which you
can do in your attempt to feed your fish the best
of most everything they want - and the best news
here is that you do not even have to get your
'scientist's degree'. Mayhaps, the best words of
advice I can give you would be to feed as wide of
a variety of foods as possible including flakes,
pellets, frozen, live, and homemade recipes.
There are, however, several items to consider
when it comes down to selecting foods.
Whenever fish are caught in the wild for scientific studies, the content of their stomach is
tested to determine what they have recently
eaten. Therein lies a great deal of the problem.
Scientists can only determine the most recent
foods taken in by the fish and cannot determine
everything they eat in nature. And to compound
matters, different fish eat different things. All of
which makes it near impossible to determine
exactly what their nutritional requirements are.
However, by studying many, many fish over the
course of time, scientists have come up with a
fairly good idea of the basic food requirements
for many species of fish, although some cannot
yet be determined. You will find many different
types of fish food available on the store shelves
and a good portion of them will be geared
toward salt water or fresh water fish in general or
a particular species of fish in particular. This is
based upon the scientific research being done. If
you have salt water fish, feed them only salt water
foods. Likewise, feed fresh water fish only fresh
water foods.
When selecting fish food, read the labels on the
containers and pay particular attention to the
contents. Among other things the label should
list the water, ash, protein, vitamin, and mineral
contents. Of these contents, the ash and water
contents are most important - actually, the lack
thereof is most important! Ash will not be
digested by the fish nor will they gain any nutrition from it - in other words, it is a waste.
Therefore, purchase food which has minimal
ash content.
Well now, I suppose by now you are saying to
yourself "if the scientists can't determine the best
Water is also something you want to avoid. Just
about all flake and/or pellet foods are made with
water as one of their mixing ingredients and it
cannot be eliminated during the manufacturing
process. Obviously the water content is of
absolutely no value, so select foods which have a
minimal amount of water content. Depending
upon the fish you maintain, protein content is
very important. Just like you and I burn protein,
fish burn protein too. Simply by swimming
around and being active the fish burn protein.
The more active they are, the more they burn.
Some fish are generally less active. They burn
protein at a much slower rate, however, they
June 2015
burn it none-the-less. If your fish are of the more
active variety, and the water temperature is right,
you want to purchase foods which have the
highest protein content. Fish which are kept in
water with higher temperatures burn more
protein and at a faster rate, while fish kept in
lower temperatures burn less. If your fish is kept
at the higher temperatures you should feed it as
much protein as possible. One final note about
protein: If you are planning to breed your fish,
high protein foods are highly recommended,
as this will increase the quality of their
reproductive output.
Many foods these days are made to include
vitamins. All fish require vitamins of some
type(s), but not necessarily all vitamins which
are available. The two highly required vitamins
which most fish need are vitamins C and D.
Although the food labels might indicate they are
vitamin enriched and/or list the vitamin
contents, in most cases, that is not the vitamin
level you actually receive in the food. Please don't
misinterpret the previous statement. No one is
trying to cheat you. The vitamin content stated is
more than likely very accurate, at least at the start
of the manufacturing process. Unfortunately,
much of the vitamin content is lost during the
processing. Despite the loss, this type of food
is better than one which does not have a
ny vitamins.
The best way to give your fish vitamins or to
supplement the vitamin enriched foods is to
purchase vitamins for them. They are available in
liquid, tablet, and powder forms. Make sure you
purchase these fish vitamins from a fish store not
your corner drug store. Fish vitamins, although
they are A, B. C, etc., just like ours, are much
different than human vitamins. When using
supplemental vitamins, don't add them to the
water even though many times these are the
instructions from the manufacturer. To ensure
the fish get the vitamins inside their bodies and
get the most benefit from them, soak the food in
the vitamins just prior to feeding it to the fish.
June 2015
How do you know if your fish are going to like
the food you purchase? Well, you never know for
sure, however, there are ways to help avoid
wasting your money on food which the fish will
totally ignore. Basically, it is called research. Read
anything you can get your hands on about the
fish you keep. Go to the library and investigate
your fish. Go to the book section of your local
fish store and purchase magazines, books, etc.
Talk to other hobbyists about your fish and see if
they can supply any feeding particularities
concerning your fish. Seek out a Koi club in your
area and speak to the members and/or solicit
information from your local pond store owner
and their employees. The more you research, the
more likely it is that you will be successful in
your quest to find some of the favorite and/or
preferred foods of the fish you maintain. One
thing you want to make sure of when buying fish
food is that you always purchase the freshest.
Don't buy food which has been sitting on the
store shelf indefinitely, as food will lose its
nutritional value over the course of time.
In conclusion
Going back to an earlier statement I made, the
best words of advice would be to feed as wide of
a variety of foods as possible including flakes,
pellets, frozen, live, and homemade recipes. In
doing so, you will almost guarantee that you are
giving your fish most of, if not all of, the
proteins and vitamins they require. (And do
not overfeed!) !
Find club event/meeting
information, pay dues,
this magazine and
more on our website www.makc.com
Ozone and Its Uses in Koi Keeping
by Malcolm Green, England
Koi about 5 feet deep in a 12 foot pond.
decided invest in the installation of Ozone
generation systems on my two largest
ponds for a number of reasons. Firstly
I am investing considerable sums in new
Koi imports every six months and a large
number of increasingly valuable fish are being
stocked together. The health risks associated with
continual new imports are clearly a risk despite
the quarantine regimes in place. So, to me, the
expense of Ozone generation systems was more
than offset by the potential savings of valuable
Koi stocks.
I
June 2015
With my own private Koi collection, I have like
many of us built up a fairly valuable collection
over many years with which one obviously
becomes sentimentally attached. This year I have
been unfortunate enough to lose several long
term members of my collection to bacterial
disease which I am convinced was originally
brought in Autumn 2000 when I housed a
number of new Koi in with my own collection
through restrictions on water space. I have experienced problems on and off since then culminating in the loss of my all time best Kohaku this
spring, although thankfully I now appear to be
over the problems. This finally convinced me to
take the plunge.
Whilst not a Utopia, since even with the use of
Ozone Koi can still need individual medication
and treatment if required, Ozone systems
currently provide the ultimate weapon in the Koi
keepers armoury in the constant fight against
disease and the struggle to maintain superb
water quality. We have seen many advancements
in Koi system filtration – new media, new
‘gizmos’, and organic cure alls designed to
improve water quality and filtration and thereby
ultimately Koi health. None however comes close
to delivering the benefits of Ozone systems, the
benefits of which have long been recognised by
the marine camp and like so many other great
ideas, only now being accepted in the Koi world.
What is Ozone?
Ozone occurs naturally in the atmosphere. When
a molecule of Oxygen, O², is bound to a third
oxygen atom, it becomes ozone, or 0³. Ozone
is an unstable bluish water-soluble gas with a
characteristic smell. In low levels it makes the air
smell fresh and its colour makes the sky blue.
Ozone is the 2nd strongest known oxidiser
known to man and the most powerful readily
available water sanitiser. It kills bacteria and
viruses 3,125 times faster and is a 50% stronger
oxidiser than chlorine. It is unsurpassed for
control of many types of common bacteria such
as E. Coli and fecal coliforms as well as the
de-activation of virus, fungus, mould, mildew
and cysts, and is not carcinogenic.
How Does it Work?
Ozone is nature's way of purifying the air we
breathe. As ozone circulates and comes into
contact with airborne pathogens, one of the
three oxygen atoms detaches itself from the
ozone molecule, attaches itself to the cell structure and oxidises it and effectively destroys the
cell and thereby kills living organisms. Ozone is
nature's way of self-cleaning our environment.
Ozone System for a Pond in Florida
Ozone is such a
strong germicide
that only a few
micrograms per
litre are required
to demonstrate
germicidal
action; it destroys
all pathogenic
and saprophytic
microbes in
water. Factors like
humidity,
temperature, pH,
ozone concentration levels, type
of organism and
time, determine
the kill rate for
pathogens, but its
action in water is
June 2015
KOIPHEN Monitoring System
instantaneous. After oxidation, ozone returns to
its original form of oxygen, without leaving any
toxic by-products or residues. Ozone is a natural
disinfectant and steriliser and unlike chlorine, it
does not produce trihalomethanes, chloroforms
or any other detrimental bi-product in water.
Without dispute, Ozone is the most effective
natural bactericide and viricide of all the
disinfecting agents.
In our pond environment Ozone: • Is highly effective in removing organics,
ammonia and nitrites.
• Reverts back to oxygen quickly, leaving no
detrimental residues when used correctly,
but leaving the water saturated with oxygen
• Is economical and non-polluting when
used correctly.
• Can be used as a sterilising agent to kill
viruses, bacteria and other pathogens,
before, during and after water is used for
re-circulation.
June 2015
• Improves biological and mechanical filtration
by burning off proteins and ammonia
straight to nitrates.
• Lowers biological oxygen demand and raises
REDOX potential in the water (the ability
of the water to oxidise pathogens).
• It can oxidise long chain molecules, such as
hydrocarbons and other potential pond
pollutants which cannot be achieved by any
mechanical or biological filtration.
For our Koi ponds, in order to dose the pond
water with the correct amount of Ozone safely
we have to install an Ozone generator and a
method of introducing the Ozone thus generated
into the water in order to achieve the correct
level of disinfection. We then have to remove the
Ozone from the water before it returns to the
pond in order to prevent it coming into contact
directly with our Koi – which would have
lethal consequences.
This is achieved by passing dry air through an
electronic ‘gizmo’ that generates Ozone by
passing a high voltage electrical discharge
through the air passing through the unit. The
Ozone thus created is then drawn into a special
protein skimmer especially designed for the
purpose via a venturi and into a water flow which
is pumped from the pond through the protein
skimmer. When the Ozone comes into contact
with the water it quickly ‘burns’ off polluting
organic material and breaks down back into
Oxygen. However even though this process takes
only milliseconds to seconds the water is bubbled
through around three metres of piping before it is
returned to the pond to ensure that all the Ozone
has done its job and reverted to Oxygen.
As well as disinfecting the water and killing
bacteria, viruses and free swimming parasites,
the Ozone also kills blanket weed and algal cells.
This means that the UV is no longer required
and is redundant. Also the water returned to the
pond is saturated with oxygen so that the biological filter is able to work at its full potential and
strictly speaking, air pumps also therefore
become redundant.
Ozone is so powerful that it is like having a
permanent and very strong dose of Chloramine
T or Potassium Permanganate in the pond,
without any of the side effects. As the Ozone also
burns off proteins, organics and ammonia water
clarity is improved enormously and the water
sparkles to the point where the colour of the Koi
is not impeded in any way by the depth of water,
and Koi that have pure white skin at the surface
also have pure white skin 6 feet down.
For us as Koi keepers, the other major advantage
of Ozone in our pond systems is that it virtually
eliminates the risk of cross infection between
Koi. So, even if a fish is introduced into the pond
environment which itself is ill, or carrying a
bacterial disease, this is much less likely to be
transmitted to other Koi. Further, any treatment
employed to an infected Koi has a much
improved chance of working effectively as the
Koi are living in a much cleaner environment,
biologically speaking – i.e. in an environment
containing very few harmful pathogens.
This is especially noticeable when topically
treating surface wounds, which once cleaned,
heal much faster.
Similarly if parasites were present on certain Koi,
the water would still need to be medicated to
eradicate the parasites on the body of the Koi
affected. Any medication used however, will work
more effectively as the pond water is maintained
at a much higher quality, with a higher REDOX
potential and with much less biological Oxygen
demand (BOD).
How do we measure the correct dosing of Ozone
in the pond water? The ozone dosing is measured
in millivolt terms and is expressed as the REDOX
level of the water. Normal pond water will have a
REDOX level of around 200mv. Sterile water has
a REDOX level of around 600mv. The Ozone
generator is designed to automatically regulate
the ozone dosing to keep the REDOX level at
around 380mv, so that the water is not sterile or
anything like, since it could not then support life.
For the scientific among us
What is a REDOX reaction?
A chemical reaction in which electrons are
removed from one atom (which is thereby
oxidised) and added to another (which is
thereby reduced).
What is Oxidization?
Oxidization is the process that causes steel and
iron to rust, a garden hose to dry up and crack
and an apple to shrivel & go brown once cut
open and is also responsible for the degeneration
or ‘rusting’ of our bodies, causing cellular breakdown. Oxidization or oxidative stress has been
linked to many degenerative and chronic diseases
including heart disease and cancer. It is also
responsible for premature ageing. Oxidization
permanently disrupts and damages cell structure
June 2015
What Causes Oxidization?
Oxidization is caused by oxygen molecules that
are missing an electron, making them unstable.
Oxygen cannot exist in this unstable form and
has to be stabilised. The molecules collide with
healthy, stable molecules be they in metal, a hose,
an apple or living cells and then ‘steal’ an
electron in order to stabilize themselves. This
damages and de-stabilizes the molecule that they
have collided with leaving it now missing an
electron itself. The formerly healthy molecule is
now itself an unstable free radical and will also
try to stabilise itself by colliding with another
healthy molecule and ‘stealing’ one of its electrons. This creates a knock-on effect that
damages and destroys living cellular structure,
and in our pond environment this includes
parasites, viruses, bacteria, algae or any other
living organism.
I have only had the units installed now for about
8 weeks and it is much too early to assess the full
impact that the systems are having on the pond
June 2015
environments. Initially on older systems, the
Ozone has to burn off much of the pond
detritus, algae, blanket weed etc., before it can
achieve the desired water quality. It is therefore
recommended that pond systems are cleaned out
as much as possible in order to achieve ultimate
performance in the shortest time.
In both my systems where the units have been
fitted, the water quality has fluctuated enormously as the units have been ‘cleaning’ the
systems for me and only now am I beginning to
experience the water clarity promised. In both
systems however, there is still much weed growth
to clean, and therefore there is still a large
amount of suspended material in the water.
Unfortunately, in my case it was not practical for
me to move all the fish from these ponds to
undertake a complete clean out when I installed
these units, so I am going to have to be patient
whilst the Ozone systems complete the clean up
for me. !
Fantail Goldfish
• The Fantail is a double-tail goldfish, which
possesses an egg-shaped, rather deep body
and paired anal, ventral and pectoral fins.
The dorsal fin is large, and should be
carried erect. Fantails can grow quite large,
with specimens of 10 -12˝ being reported.
• The fantail comes in a variety of colors,
including orange, yellow, red, white, olive
or drab green, yellow-brown, calico and
black. Fantails come in metallic, matte, and
nacreous scales patterns.
body, and the high erect dorsal, which is
expected to be from 1/3 to 1/2 the depth of
the body. Typically, the caudal fin should be
from 1/3 to 1/2 the length of the body, split
for at least 75% of the length of the tail,
with the remaining fins being proportional
to the shape and size of the fish. Unsplit, or
tripod tails are to be avoided, and will
sometimes result in a disqualification at
a show.
• Scalation should be regular and even, and
scales should not be missing.
• The primary identifying characteristics of
this variety of goldfish are the paired fins
(especially the caudal or tail fin), the deep
June 2015
Single Color Fantail
June 2015
Calico Fantail
Description
Points
Body Style
25
Coloration
25
Deportment and Condition
25
Finnage
25
Special Characteristics – Finnage
and coloration (aditional points)
0
American Goldfish Association
2014 Goldfish Standards
Variety Name: Fantail
Dorsal Fin: Y/N, Y
Tail Type: Double
Special Characteristic: N/A
Total
100
!
June 2015
Sunshine Column
I remember when she got the idea to install a
pond in the courtyard at the school where she
worked. It was a kids’ project. And it was a
beautiful pond, too. Andrea went from business
to business collecting donated items (liner, rocks,
pump, filter, etc) and even got the janitor to build
it with the children. This is what Andrea was to
all of us. Andrea made the world more beautiful.
To Andrea Lynn Duggan
If you never met her, you have missed a lot.
There are people you cannot forget and Andrea is
one. Always smiling, always full of pep, she was
one of the Metropolitan Chapter members who
drove long distances from the east end of Long
Island to meet once a month in the middle with
those of us from Nassau County or making the
trek out to the Suffolk Chapter when we eventually moved out there.
Andrea was sharp as a tack! She had something
to say and jumped right in when something
needed to be done. She and I clicked right away.
I needed her to keep me from being a sometimes
bad actor. A short fuse was not my best attribute.
Andrea would constantly remind me “We’re
having fun” when I started getting too serious
about somebody forgetting to bring something
as important as the coffee pot. She would kick
me under the table when I opened my mouth,
just for good luck and a reminder that in any
club, there are no bosses. “If it isn’t enjoyable,
then it will cease to be.” Andrea was a wise and
beautiful teacher in and out of the classroom.
Her generosity and strength were her greatest
blessings and she shared them with all of us.
June 2015
When she was diagnosed with Stage 4 Hodgkin’s
Lymphoma, we were devastated, all of us.
Nobody who knew Andrea was unaffected by the
news. She asked us to pray. She sent out emails
and notices on Facebook to reassure us all that
she was “still standing.” Hundreds of family and
friends waited anxiously for each update. Days,
months and years went by and she got a clean bill
of health. We thought we were out of the woods.
She asked us to keep praying because the results
of her chemo treatment had done some damage
to vital organs. She always knew what was
happening and she was always there to support
US! As strange as that sounds, hundreds or
maybe thousands of people who have known and
loved Andrea have just lost a very important
figure in their lives. We have walked through
every step with her in this terrible illness. I am
just one of them from MAKC.
Thank you, Andrea! Your pain is over. May you
rest in peace.
Passed away April 25, 2015, age 60
Please send submissions for our Sunshine
Column to - Carolyn Weise, Editor
[email protected] ❖
On the Road
to a Koi Event
June 12 - 14
14th Oregon Koi & Watergarden Society
Roseburg, OR website:
www.oregonkoiandwatergardensociety.com
Contact Norman Call at [email protected]
June 19 – 21
PNKCA Convention
(Pacific Northwest Koi Clubs Association)
31st Annual Convention and Pond Tour
and
Koi Organisation International
1st Ever Wet Lab and Get Together
Held at the Red Lion River Inn
Spokane, Washington
Hosted by Inland Empire Water Garden & Koi
Society. Updated information see our website
www.pnkca.com
June 26-28
Midwest Pond & Koi Society Koi and Goldfish Show & Tradeshow
Held at the Darien Sportsplex.
http://www.mpks.org/
July 10-12
Tri-State ZNA Koi Show/Anniversary Event
Held at Kodama Koi Garden Kodama in
Saddle River, New Jersey.
http://tristateznakoi.com/
July 17- 19
Puget Sound Koi Club 17th Annual Young
Koi Show
Hoshi Koi in Tacoma, WA website: www.pskc.us
Contact Maggie Post at [email protected] or
Monte McQuade at [email protected]
September 11-13
ZNA Potomac Koi Show
Held at Meadowlark Gardens, Virginia; for
Treasurer’s Report
Submitted by
Anthony Vitale, New York
Beginning Balance March 2015
Income
Advertising
Sponsor
Membership
Total Income
$16,210.22
$475.00
30.00
210.00
$715.00
Ending Balance April 2015
$16,925.22
Saving Balance
Club Total Balance
As if April 2015
$6,327.15
$23,252.37
❖
information see our website http://www.znapotomac.org/show.htm
September 25–27
35th Annual Koi Show Northwest Koi &
Goldfish Club (ZNA NW Chapter)
Held at Uwajimaya’s, Beaverton, OR, in conjunction with the Festival of Japan. Contact: Daren
Beck, Show Chair @ [email protected] or
503-507-8510 Joel Rutledge. For more information visit the club’s website: www.nwkg.org
Have an upcoming Koi event, please send the
information to [email protected]. We will be
glad to include it in future articles.
Don’t forget your own MAKC Club has events
coming up that can be found in our digital
magazine or at www.makc.com. We always need
volunteers for meetings and shows. It is amazing
how much you can learn by helping. Take
advantage of being an MAKC member and
participate in the club events.
See you soon at a Koi event. ❖
June 2015
M A KC Me e t i ng s an d Eve nt s
Central Chapter Meetings
Sunday, June 7
Bridgewater, N
Future meetings
• July 12 Newark, DE-maybe a summer BBQ
• August 2 or 9 Bethlehem, PA- guest speaker
Dr. Brian Palmerio
• September -open
• October 4 in Allentown, PA !
• Sunday September 20, Open
• Sunday October 18, at Herb’s pond
• Sunday November 15, at Masonic Lodge in
Saugerties
• Sunday December 13, at Holiday Dinner at
Roe and Herb’s
Contact Herb Ehrich for further information
about upcoming meetings - email Herb at
[email protected] ❖
South Chapter
Long Island Chapter Meetings
• June we’ll host the Annual
MAKC meeting at Bernie’s. Club
members will also vote for Officers for the
2015/2016 year. The date is not set yet. We
will be raffling Koi related items and we will
be selling raffles for the Seneye Pond
Monitoring System drawing in August. We
will be bringing down Herb Ehrich,
Saugerties Chapter VP, to act as "Raffle
Master."
• Pond Tour July 19, 2015, this will be an event
for all current members of MAKC and
members at large are also welcome
to attend.
• August BBQ looking for a host !
SAVE THE DAY
Sunday, June 28
The South Region Chapter will hold a meet and
greet meeting on Sunday, June 28, 2015 in
Arlington, Virginia, from 1:30 PM to 3:30 PM.
(Details will be sent via email to members who
are coming.) Come and enjoy a Japanese style
garden and Koi.
We will share Koi stories, socialize, and exchange
ideas about future possible club activities.
A light lunch will be served so we need a headcount. Please RSVP to:
[email protected] !
Saugerties Chapter Meetings
Remember! MAKC members may attend
meetings in any Chapter.
Sunday, June 14
3:00 pm
John and Jan’s Pond
Send your meeting and event
information to Carolyn Weise
Future meetings
• Sunday July 19 at Paul and
Harriet’s pond
• Sunday August 16, Open
June 2015
[email protected]
Deadline June 3rd for the
July 2015 issue.
F..A..S..T.. Ads – June
Disclaimer: MAKC and its officers assume no
responsibility for claims of advertisers or the
quality/serviceability of goods offered.
FOR SALE
Remember any MAKC member can list their
Koi, pond, or related items for sale here in your
magazine at no charge. Please contact Joann
today if you have something for sale.
BAMBOO. Winter hardy and tropical for
indoors. Thinning collection. Reasonable prices.
Call Ron Altman, NY 718-442-1673 (Office) or
908-658-3055 (H).
F..A..S..T.. Ads
Policy & Deadlines
F..A..S..T.. Ads are available FREE to
MAKC members only; no commercial
ads. Ads are limited to 10 items and
must include name, phone number,
town and state. Deadline is the 1st of
each month.
Help do you have an hour or two? We
need a volunteer to manage this page.
Please contact
Joann Mead
845-389-5712
[email protected]
WANTED
KOI. Foster Home. Large natural pond. Happy
to accept your overgrown or unwanted
“children.” Call Rich Menashe in Metuchen, NJ,
732-767-0720.
KOI. Wanted Healthy Pond Grade KOI over 10˝.
Will pay reasonable prices. I have a 750,000
gallon pond and will adopt any unwanted KOI.
Call Joseph Pollock in Virginia at 540-788-9222.
KOI. Wanted for large deep natural pond next to
soon to be built wine tasting room in wine
country of Northern Virginia. Happy to accept
any and all Koi of any size and color. Stop by and
visit them next year when our tasting room
opens. Call Mark Malick in Purcellville, VA,
540-270-3399 (cell).
KOI BITO MAGAZINES – in good condition.
Send list with asking price, or call Roger Klocke
701-491-2803, E-mail at [email protected].
Mailing address: Roger Klocke,
4805 Meadow Creek Dr., Fargo, ND 58104.
KOI STORE EMPLOYEE. Looking for a
knowledgeable Koi and pond hobbyist.
Part-time, competitive pay. Outstanding
employee discounts! Call John at Blue Ribbon
Koi Products. 703-753-7566.
MAKC SECRETARY AND MAKC SALES
POSITIONS – are open; please contact club
president Joann Mead for more information on
how you can fill one of these positions.
Joann Mead 845-389-5713 or e-mail
[email protected]. !
June 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi
Ad Index
ABC Pond Book . . . . . . . . . .23
Next issue learn about the Goldfish
variety the Ryukin.
Pentair Aquatic
Hikari . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3, 8
Eco-Systems, Inc. . . . . . 8, 36
Kodama Koi Farm . . . . . . 8, 18
Quality Koi Company . . . 8, 30
Koi Market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Rainbow Koi . . . . . . . . . . .8, 20
Mazuri . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 15
Smart Koi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15
Microbe-Lift . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31
Total Koi Food . . . . . . . . . . . . .8
Nisei Koi Farm . . . . . . . . . 8, 30
Tri-State ZNA Koi Show . . . .14
Advertise in
Mid-Atlantic Koi!
Join or Renew
Your Membership
Submit Your MAKC
Membership Form by printing
out page 51 and mailing it in.
Do it today, it only takes
a couple of minutes.
Ad Rates from $15/issue* for
a business card ad to $300/issue*
for a full page color ad.
Reach your target audience of Koi
keepers & water gardeners each month
and leave your competition in the dust!!
Contact Joann Mead at
845-389-5712 (leave message) or e-mail:
[email protected]
to request information on our advertiser
packages and/or a copy of
our ad rate sheet.
*With an annual 10 issue contract.
June 2015
Picture to Share –
Koi Horoscope
Inland Koi Society Develops New Horoscope
12 Animals Replaced by 12 Koi Varieties
Have you ever wondered what would happen if the Japanese,
working with the Inland Koi Society, had gotten hold of the
lunar calendar before the Chinese did? What if the 12 months
were created using Koi varieties for your horoscope? There
would be no ox, rat, snake, tiger, dog, dragon, sheep, monkey,
rooster, pig, rabbit, or even a horse – just Koi varieties. What
sign are you in this imaginary Koi horoscope?
Do you have a picture to share? Please send them to the Editor,
Carolyn Weise.
[email protected]
June 2015
Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC)
Individual/Family Application
Mid-Atlantic Koi Club (MAKC) is an association of Koi, goldfish and watergarden enthusiasts who gather to expand their knowledge and appreciation
of the hobby. The club meets at convenient regional locations in the
Mid-Atlantic area. We also publish an informative monthly online
magazine (bi-monthly in Nov/Dec & Jan/Feb).
The Family/Individual Membership dues are $30 per year. Membership renewal date is one year
after membership application has been accepted. You will be notified when your membership is
up for renewal.
Please provide the following information:
Date ___________ New Member _____ Renewing Member ____
Name_______________________________________________________
Address _________________________ City ___________________ State _____Zip _______
Phone _______________ E-mail____________________________________________
Please check all subjects in the following list that interest you, or that you would be able
to assist the club with:
_____ Have a Club meeting at your home
_____ Pond construction, maintenance, filtration theory and practice
_____ How to select Koi – their diseases and treatment
_____ Feature your pond for members to visit or be featured on a Pond Tour
_____ Share a special skill or knowledge at a meeting
_____ Volunteer in the club (circle choices) President, Vice President, Recording Secretary,
Membership Secretary, Treasurer, Newsletter Editor, Webmaster, Marketing
_____ Are there any fish or pond related problems you need help with? If so, what kind?
____________________________________________________________________________
We do not sell/offer/trade/distribute member information to outside enterprises
Please mail membership application along with a check (payable to MAKC) to our Membership
Secretary or bring it to any meeting. You can also pay via credit card at www.Paypal.com. Our
PayPal account email address is [email protected] You will be notified when your
membership is up for renewal.
Do not wish to have name published in Membership Directory please check box _______
MAKC
PO Box 91
Ulster Park, NY 12487
Phone Number (845) 389-5712
E-mail: [email protected]
June 2015
Ballot 2015-2016 MAKC Officers
For each Office, vote for the nominated candidate by placing a check in the box
or by writing in your vote in the space provided
PRESIDENT
Joann Mead (Incumbent)
___________________________ (Write-In)
VICE PRESIDENT
Herb Ehrich (Incumbent)
___________________________ (Write-In)
SECRETARY
___________________________ (Write-In)
TREASURER
Anthony Vitale (Incumbent)
___________________________ (Write-In)
CENTRAL CHAPTER VICE PRESIDENT
Bruce Damme (Current VP)
Leonard Kuker
LONG ISLAND VICE PRESIDENT
Bruce Levine (Current VP)
___________________________ (Write-In)
SAUGERTIES/NORTH CHAPTER VICE PRESIDENT
Herb Ehrich (Current VP)
___________________________ (Write-In)
SOUTH CHAPTER VICE PRESIDENT
Alan Mickelson (Current VP)
___________________________ (Write-In)
Signature: _______________________________ Date: ____________________
Only one vote per MAKC membership: email: [email protected]
Or snail mail:
MAKC,
PO Box 91,
Ulster Park, NY 12487
Ballot must be recieved by Friday, June 12, 2015

The Magazine of the Mid-Atlantic Koi Club June 2015

Transcription

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