Machine Embroidery Series

Transcription

Machine Embroidery Series
Machine Embroidery Series –
Terry Cloth
This series is written by
guest blogger Pamela Cox.
Pamela
is
an
expert
embroiderer,
designer,
digitizer and all around
wonderful girl! We are so
happy
to
have
her
contributing to the Sulky
Blog!
Terry Cloth
Terry cloth is a fabric characterized by long loops on both
sides and most often noted for its usage in towels. The long
loops whisk away moisture, hence making it the perfect choice
for towels, but terry cloth is also great for sports related
items (head bands, sweat jackets or swim cover-ups) as well as
bathrobes, baby bibs and burp cloths. Although the “loops” of
terry cloth provide a great service, this same wonderful
quality can also present a bit of a challenge for machine
embroidering, unless a few extra precautions are
followed. Because terry cloth is usually fabricated from 100%
cotton fibers, it is very important to machine wash and dry
the fabric, including pre-made items, prior to
embroidering. Give some thought to the type of embroidery
design to use. A “line” design, such as red-work, may actually
get lost in terry cloth’s texture. “Fill” designs – which
“color in” the design by stitched thread patterns- or applique
designs – which incorporate placing a fabric over the terry
cloth to “color in” the design – are usually the better
choice.
Another very important factor when working with terry cloth is
stabilizers.
Ter
ry cloth will always require two different types of Sulky®
Stabilizers, a foundation stabilizer – Tear-Easy™ or FabriSolvy™ – to be secured in the hoop underneath the fabric, plus
a top stabilizer – Heat-Away Clear Film™ or Super-Solvy™ –
which covers the stitching surface of the terry cloth.
Whi
ch to choose and when to use? There really is no “one right
combination”. Honestly, it boils down to what an individual
is most comfortable with and what “works for you”. There are
some pros and cons to each type: Tear-Easy™ is effortlessly
removed from the wrong side of the design but may leave
“fuzzy” white tufts showing or tear during the hooping
process. Fabri-Solvy™ Stabilizer will be totally removed from
the project as it is washed away, but since much of the excess
should be cut away prior to washing, a bit of care needs to be
taken not to cut through the loops of the terry cloth. SuperSolvy™ completely washes away. However, since it was made to
truly “wash away” over an extended period of time, it could
wash away from behind the embroidery and the design may “sink”
into the nap of the fabric. Heat-Away Clear Film™ is not
removed by washing and it will not breakdown with dryer heat.
It is only removed by tearing the excess away from the design
and touching a very hot iron directly to any remaining film.
Therefore, it will remain intact, underneath the embroidery
design.
Let’s start stitching a few samples!
Owl Applique Design by Carol Ingram
Design #684 available from Sulky
Embroidery Club
Light-weight terry cloth was secured directly in the hoop
along with the foundation stabilizer, Tear-Easy™.
Super-Solvy™ covered the terry surface by pinning it in place
close to the inside of the hoop’s frame.
The
design was stitched accordingly.
When the fabric was
carefully trimmed, only the cloth was cut leaving the top
stabilizer in place.
Once stitched, the project was removed from the hoop.
Pins
were also removed. The back stabilizer was gently torn away
from the design.
The
piece was then thoroughly rinsed to remove any remaining top
stabilizer.
Ple
ase note: photos taken simply show the design with stabilizers
“torn away” from the design, no rinsing has been done. Clean
lines occurred simply by removing the stabilizer.
Flower Vine Filled Design by
Carol Ingram Design #484
available
from
Sulky
Embroidery Club
Fabri-Solvy™ stabilizer was hooped and pulled “tight as a
drum”.
A
heavy-weight terry towel was temporarily held in place with a
few pins. Once the design position was confirmed on the
machine, a basting function was incorporated to “fix” the
towel to the stabilizer, securing the top stabilizer, which
was Heat-Away Clear Film™, at the same time.
Onc
e the fill design is completed, the towel is removed from the
hoop, cutting away as much of the foundation stabilizer as
possible, without cutting into the loops of the terry cloth.
The
top stabilizer was “torn” from the design.
The project was rinsed and soaked to remove any foundation
stabilizer and allowed to dry. If needed, any residual top
stabilizer was removed by touching a hot dry iron to it
allowing the film to “ball” and gently rubbed from the
project. (Note from Sulky: Pamela’s suggestion to pull away
the Heat-Away is good one on terry cloth especially. Because
Heat-Away rolls up into little balls when heated, if ironing
is used as the primary removal, those little balls could
become hard to remove it they get imbedded in the terry cloth.
On smooth fabrics, like cotton, iron away! No problem.)
I hope these examples will help take the fear out of doing
machine embroidery on terry cloth.
Happy Sewing!