Step by step , Stampe SV4 building , [DGA] , 1/72

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Step by step , Stampe SV4 building , [DGA] , 1/72 - PaperModelers.com
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02-09-2014, 10:26 AM
Jan Kytop
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Hi, this tutorial was intended for the friends of a french plastic model forum : " fightersforum " to let them know about the
paper modelling.
It can not teach you not be much, but if it can be useful , here :
In this post , you can follow the completion of a paper model in 1/72 .
The model chosen is the legendary Stampe SV4 .
The paper airplane models are in the form of cutting pre-printed booklet :
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/aviation/27842-step-step-stampe-sv4-building-dga-1-72-a.html (1 of 19)3/12/2014 8:20:13 PM
Photo 1
or as PDF files for download , which can be free or paid .
The model is then printed by you :
Photo 2
I bought my model on this site for $ 2.50 :
Ecardmodels.com
Search results for: 'stampe'
Many Stampe are available here.
This is the largest site for the purchase of paper models to download.
Soon paid, you can download it immediately , no problem for a package lost or delayed .
The file is then printed on my inkjet paper and here the paper I use:
picture3
Printed as such , the model is 1/48 , I reduce it to 1/72 ( 67% print function of the printer or use software for printing
documents).
After printing, the sheet receives a coat of varnish spray (see photo):
photo4
The aim is to protect the print and make it insensitive to future manipulations and mitigate the attack of UV color.
I then brush a coat of acrylic satin varnish Pebeo on main parts (fuselage , wings, empennage ) .
The paper curls a little but at this stage it does not matter .
Photo5
After drying , the plate is returned.
For transparency , the contour of the body is marked and all this part is painted in interior green color using Citadel
acrylic paint.
I let it dry until tomorrow .
photo6
We attack !
Cutting tools :
X -acto knife and scissors .
Photo7
The body was recovered on board:
photo8
I do not perform as expected because I completely separates the bottom , I removed the tabs above the fuselage bonding
and I do not cut the passage of the lower wings in the fuselage. Why ?
After testing my method seems not necessarily easier but alignments are better ;
photo9
The tabs are redone in 80g paper and pasted on the inside ( wood glue ) , therefore there will be no step effect at this
location ( there is no more overlap between opposing parties but juxtaposition ) :
Photo10
The body is shaped with the help of round tools ( lime sticks , tubes, etc. ..) .
Getting there gradually.
photo11
The bottom of the fuselage and instrument panels ( replaced by real Stampe panels taken from internet and printed to
scale) are glued onto cardboard .
Photo12
After cutting and passing black felt on the edges, instruments panels are glued with cyanoacrylate gel inside (note the
symmetry and alignment )
Photo13
The tub is cut , shaped and inserted into the fuselage.
We then glue the bottom against the flanks alongside
photo14
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02-09-2014, 10:30 AM
John Bowden
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OK......... this will be made into a PDF and posted on our site!!
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My Drawings
02-09-2014, 12:41 PM
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jyduchene
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Jan,
Thanks so very much. This is the exact Stampe that I have been "fiddeling with". I hope to build it in 1/48 half as well as
you have at a smaller scale. Thanik you for taking the time to teach. I am a happy student.
John
02-09-2014, 12:47 PM
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Alcides
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Thanks Jan. I think always it's very useful. I always learn something from a good build thread.
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Finished!!!
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/k...hinryu-ii.html+
My model http://www.ecardmodels.com/index.php...nufacturer=161
02-10-2014, 08:24 AM
Jan Kytop
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Now , the lower wings:
Photo15
Note that I separate the left and the right wing.
The interior is reinforced with recycling cardboard and spar ;
Photo16
The curvature is given with a round file placed on the thigh
Photo17
The future location of the mats is pierced with a needle :
Photo18
The half wing is glued directly to the fuselage with cyano gel.
It is essential to have a good plan to get a good alignment and dihedral in all directions .
Photo19
I recommend these books , especially the small one who has an excellent 1/72 drawing .
The author is certainly the person who knows the most about Stampes .
Photo20
To finish diluted wood glue is brushed along all the joints , to bond them.
Photo21
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02-10-2014, 08:58 AM
Alcides
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jan Kytop
To finish diluted wood glue is brushed along all the joints , to bond them.
I've a question: Do you not get marks on the model because the glue? One of my main worries when I'm build is avoid
the glue touch the model surface.
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02-10-2014, 10:17 AM
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Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alcides
I've a question: Do you not get marks on the model because the glue? One of my main worries when I'm build is
avoid the glue touch the model surface.
I take care to put the glue only on the joints and then I'll brush an other coat of varnish that help to avoid the glue marks.
02-10-2014, 05:18 PM
papermate
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Excellent, Jan, I can learn something from your step by step tutorial.
Papermate
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02-11-2014, 07:36 AM
eatcrow2
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Outstanding "step by step" photos!! A real pleasure to follow along.
02-11-2014, 01:17 PM
gomidefilho
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Amazing Jan, many thank's for generosity! I love the tip of varnish!
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Step by step , Stampe SV4 building , [DGA] , 1/72 - Page 2 - PaperModelers.com
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02-11-2014, 02:03 PM
Jan Kytop
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The horizontal stabilizer is easy: cutting, folding, inserting a small carton for stiffening and to give volume and then
bonding .
Photo22
Drilling the passage of wires:
http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/aviation/27842-step-step-stampe-sv4-building-dga-1-72-a-2.html (1 of 9)3/12/2014 8:19:41 PM
Photo23
The tail is glued in place with cyanoacrylate gel, take care of the alignments:
Photo24
02-12-2014, 10:42 AM
Jan Kytop
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I build the tail wheel now not be bothered by the vertical tail;
It consists of 4 parts: 2 half wheels, I double thickness to give them volume before sticking one over the other half and 2
forks.
Photo25
The fork halfs are bonded to the rear on both sides of the fuselage with cyano gel and the wheel is sandwiched between
the two?
Finally, all is soaked with liquid cyano to stiffen it.
Photo26
02-12-2014, 11:07 AM
Leif Ohlsson
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Learned many things here. Well done! - L.
02-12-2014, 12:37 PM
scissorsandplanes
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That is what I would call a "masterclass in paper model building".
Thanks
Do you also have by any chance a Belgian Air force SV-4B (with canopy) in orange color with a penguin on the side ?
02-12-2014, 12:41 PM
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RunwayOneSixRight
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That is turning out great!
-RunwayOneSixRight (Matthew)
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02-12-2014, 01:00 PM
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Tapcho
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Jan, your very fine tutorial has done one thing for me: I've started on my first ever airplane model (except some previous
trials and errors way back). If everything turns out well I'll present the results soon. Thank you and well done.
Tappi
02-12-2014, 02:17 PM
Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scissorsandplanes
That is what I would call a "masterclass in paper model building".
Thanks
Do you also have by any chance a Belgian Air force SV-4B (with canopy) in orange color with a penguin on the
side ?
Yes , it is a project .
First I build an open canopy orange plane and then an other orange plane but with closed canopy.
02-12-2014, 02:19 PM
Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapcho
Jan, your very fine tutorial has done one thing for me: I've started on my first ever airplane model (except some
previous trials and errors way back). If everything turns out well I'll present the results soon. Thank you and well
done.
Tappi
Excellent idea; I wish you a good building!
02-13-2014, 02:44 AM
Jan Kytop
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Now the horizontal stabilizer.
Cutting, bending, curving of surfaces with a round file and inserting a small piece of recycled cardboard in the middle.
To prevent a staircase effect on the surfaces at the time of bonding , put the adhesive only on the areas with crosses and
pinch the part for bonding only at this location.
Photo27
Photo28
The tail is glued in place with gel cyano, then the entire perimeter joints receives wood glue with a fine brush that fills the
hollow and adds to the strength of the bonding.
Photo29
02-13-2014, 04:04 AM
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Leif Ohlsson
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Love the way you use white glue as a sealer. Reminds me of old-time balsa building... - L.
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Alcides
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Seems I've to practice more to work cyano glue. I always end with some problem or I just use a few drops when the
complete tube is like a rock.
Your thread is priceless Jan.
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02-14-2014, 12:47 PM
Jan Kytop
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Now the front of the plane.
Photo30
The gluing tabs are replaced by homemade inner tabs.
Photo31
The front part is carefully formatting.
Photo32
The whole is bonded to the front of the plane.
Photo33
02-15-2014, 07:34 AM
Jan Kytop
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To detail inside, I added some details from internet pictures of cockpits of Stampes , printed after reduction to the desired
size.
New seat belts for inclusion in relief, parking brakes, the throttle levers, the starter Viet , emplacement for maps.
Photo34
We could add trims, a aviophone, a fire extinguisher, but for what we'll see ...
Parts before bonding in the fuselage:
Photo35
The picture does not give much, but it gives you an idea.
For the placement of the elements see the notice of the excellent 1:33 scale model of Renesson:
Card model projects/Projets
Photo36
02-15-2014, 11:29 AM
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YOAVHOZMI
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I take of my hat.....wonderful work on such a little parts.
YOAV
02-16-2014, 08:43 AM
Jan Kytop
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On the sidelines of the current build, a little aside;
it is possible using a photo of Stampe's engine recovered on the internet and after reduction and printing to insert it in the
front of the fuselage to obtain a representation with open hood.
By superimposing several levels of cut parts, one can obtain a light 3D effect.
I'll glue the hood permanently at the end of the assembly.
Photo37
Photo38
Photo39
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02-17-2014, 10:10 AM
Jan Kytop
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For windows, you could replace them with rhodoïd but I will proceed as follows:
Photo40
I cut the glass parts with a new blade 11.
Then the paper piece is
sandwiched between two pieces of tape.
It is then cut .
Photo41
Photo42
Then glued in place with wood glue after bending.
Photo43
Wood glue is then brushed on the seals;
Photo44
02-17-2014, 10:43 AM
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Leif Ohlsson
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Window & engine tricks are very good! Excellent advice.
- Leif
02-18-2014, 12:21 AM
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René
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very good, Jan. that is excellent.
René
02-18-2014, 02:37 AM
Jan Kytop
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Thank you very much , my friends.
02-18-2014, 02:57 AM
YOAVHOZMI
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question:
i see you are using clear masking tape for the windows.
the other side of it is sticky, so dust don't stick to it and spoil the clearness of the windows?
by the way, you are doing a terrific job and very good explanations for the building process.
YOAV
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02-18-2014, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOAVHOZMI
question:
i see you are using clear masking tape for the windows.
the other side of it is sticky, so dust don't stick to it and spoil the clearness of the windows?
by the way, you are doing a terrific job and very good explanations for the building process.
YOAV
I don't think so, it looks like he is sticking two pieces of tape together, therefor dust or other contaminants won't stick.
-RunwayOneSixRight (Matthew)
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02-18-2014, 07:17 AM
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(Matthew got in there just before me, but here goes anyway: )
Yoav, the idea - I believe, and have done so myself - is to use two pieces of tape, sticky-to-sticky, and laminate the frame
between them. You then push down carefully along the (inner) edges of the frame, so that the two sticky surfaces really
adhere to each other all the way out to the edges. The method will make a very good transparent section.
The only possible issue is that the frame part becomes rather glossy (tape surfaced; see Jan's photos). I suppose this
could be ameliorated by painting it, if you find it necessary. Personally, I would use only one layer of the two frame parts,
and/or glue the inside frame part onto the laminated tape-frame part. Or vice versa - matter of taste.
I find this an excellent method, particularly for small-scale models, where the transparency sheet sometimes is too rigid,
and difficult to glue to frame parts.
Leif
02-18-2014, 08:10 AM
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YOAVHOZMI
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thank you both Matthew and Leif for the explanations.
YOAV
02-18-2014, 08:59 AM
Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YOAVHOZMI
thank you both Matthew and Leif for the explanations.
YOAV
Yes , ,it is exactly , the method Matthew and Leil explain (sticky to sticky);
it is possible to brush matt varnish on the frames to avoid the gloss finish of the tape.
02-18-2014, 09:05 AM
Jan Kytop
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On Belgian Stampes , the engine is different (Gipsy and non Renault),and the front cover of the DGA model is represented
with a true relief. You must carefully cut the aperture in the front piece.
Photo45
Glue the front of the hood to the rear and then shape the piece representing the inside of the air intake:
Photo46
This piece is then bonded from inside:
Photo47
The result before finishing:
Photo48
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02-18-2014, 10:49 AM
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Alcides
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Wow!!! That's really small. Congrats on a very clean job.
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02-19-2014, 09:34 AM
Jan Kytop
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I made an error of interpretation.
The part I have bent concave and put inside to give relief to the air intake should actually be folded convex and placed
outside the hood to give the typical " chin " of belgian Stampes .
So I reprint the said piece :
Photo49
The black part is cut and the piece folded convex :
Photo50
I forgot to take the picture when mounted , and so next time.
Because while it was drying , I cut two small dials of instruments that I will stick to the outside of the cockpit on the hood .
Photo51
This detail is almost always forgotten even on plastic models , the Stampe has two engine instruments outside the cockpit.
Photo52
The fairing of the instruments is represented by a large drop of wood glue. Due to the shrinkage during drying , repeat
the operation twice or more and then the relief obtained is painted with the fuselage color..
Photo53
Various holes are drilled with a fine needle . They later used for various cables and tensioners ;
Photo54
Photo55
The missing picture with the nose of the belgian model:
Photo56
Last edited by Jan Kytop; 02-19-2014 at 09:47 AM.
02-20-2014, 08:52 AM
Jan Kytop
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The most exciting part : the assembly of the upper wing .
Cutting, bending and internal reinforcement :
Photo57
Drill 4 holes for the masts and 2X2 holes for the aileron cables glued in place in the upper wing :
Photo58
The result after mounting the tank that has received an internal adding to obtain a sufficient rounded appearance :
Photo59
Then I cut 2 strips of plain paper ( 80g ) of the width of the front and rear wing struts :
Photo60
I cut 2X2 parts of paper in the stips that are folded in two and then four lengths of very fine piano wire :
Photo61
The wire is then sandwiched between the folded paper glued with wood glue :
Photo62
02-20-2014, 04:21 PM
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Leif Ohlsson
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The glueblob trick never fails, particularly in this small scale. And you can mix it with water color or acrylig, if needed.
Nice strut work with the metal wire inside, even at this scale. Very good. - L.
02-21-2014, 07:48 AM
Jan Kytop
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Thank you Leif.
After drying, the mats are cut to the right size
Photo63
Each strut is placed in the corresponding hole with a drop of cyano gel:
Photo64
Be sure to check the position of the strurts in all directions relative to the drawing:
Photo65
Paint the struts of the appropriate color (usually black)
Photo66
Delicate moment, the upper wing is fixed by gluing each strut in the corresponding hole, side by side:
Photo67
And the result:
Photo68
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You are saving the center-section struts until later? Interesting. This is a very good tutorial for all scales, actually. - L:
02-21-2014, 08:12 AM
Jan Kytop
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Yes , it will be the next step.
02-21-2014, 08:20 AM
jyduchene
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Jan, Thanks for the tutorial thus far. The struts have always been a source of difficulty for me. Can we back up a bit. The
insert to the front of the cowl. The way you assembled it at first was the way I attempted it, and even at 1/48 the delicate
cut out for the small and delicate part to be applied to the fragile front end was beyond me. Howeve can you clarify what
it was about your first assembly that you found wrong and how did you change it? I cannot clearly see by the photo and I
am perplexed as I cannot see an alternate interpretation of how the front of the cowl could be assembled.
This is a wonderful learning experience and I hope that it will indeed become PDF.
Thanks again. John
02-21-2014, 02:30 PM
Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jyduchene
Jan, Thanks for the tutorial thus far. The struts have always been a source of difficulty for me. Can we back up a
bit. The insert to the front of the cowl. The way you assembled it at first was the way I attempted it, and even at
1/48 the delicate cut out for the small and delicate part to be applied to the fragile front end was beyond me.
Howeve can you clarify what it was about your first assembly that you found wrong and how did you change it? I
cannot clearly see by the photo and I am perplexed as I cannot see an alternate interpretation of how the front of
the cowl could be assembled.
This is a wonderful learning experience and I hope that it will indeed become PDF.
Thanks again. John
Hi,I am trying to explain the problem although it is not easy with my bad english.
In fact the small piece with a black rectangle is not intended to make an insert for a depth effect in the hood.
You have not to cut the black part on the front part of the hood .
The small piece is intended to be glue in front of the hood , the black part in front of the black part of the hood and
"mountain folded"to make the square chin of the hood the belgian Stampes.
Of course , if you print two pieces (as me to correct my error) you can have the chin+the depth effect but it is more
difficult and it was not the specified method to build the model.
http://www.hangarflying.be/sites/def...jpg?1307775809
http://monimag.eu/upload/1189/stampe...-dsc_0242r.jpg
02-21-2014, 02:44 PM
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jyduchene
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Jan, Thanks, your second photo explains it well. You language is good no worries. The :"wrong" way of doing this seems
right for a Tiger Moth approach. I have not had the opportunity to view Stampe images in the depth that I have studied
Tiger Moth's. I gathered by something you wrote that some Stampes have Gypsy engines and would thus require the
alternate installation, is this correct? and again thanks, I am learning much
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02-21-2014, 03:05 PM
Jan Kytop
#46 (permalink)
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Quote:
Jan, Thanks, your second photo explains it well. You language is good no worries. The :"wrong" way of doing this
seems right for a Tiger Moth approach. I have not had the opportunity to view Stampe images in the depth that I
have studied Tiger Moth's. I gathered by something you wrote that some Stampes have Gypsy engines and would
thus require the alternate installation, is this correct? and again thanks, I am learning much
The belgian Stampes have Gypsy engines and the french Stampes , Renault engine without the square chin.
So , The DGA Stampes model with Renault engine have not the famous small piece I have misidentified.
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...n_flight_3.jpg
02-22-2014, 08:09 AM
Jan Kytop
#47 (permalink)
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The parts for the fuselage struts and the undercarriage must be glued in pairs opposite but a good fit would be very
difficult, so I proceed as follows: all parts are glued on paper of the same thickness.
Photo69
After drying, they are cut with a cutter with a new blade:
photo70
Here's what you get:
Photo71
Then gluing in place with cyano gel:
Photo72
With this method, one of the sides is not painted, so it is time to paint:
Photo73
02-22-2014, 09:22 AM
Leif Ohlsson
#48 (permalink)
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Very good. The alternative would be to draw the opposing parts with larger color fields, and no outlines. But that still
requires edgepainting, sometimes both before & after assembly. So your method makes a lot of sense, particularly in
small scales. - L.
02-22-2014, 05:44 PM
jyduchene
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#49 (permalink)
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Posts: 60
Jan, You have a steady hand. I think Leif's method may be necessary for us with a bit of a tremor. I have wanted to ask.
Among your photo's of Stampe's from another thread, you have a yellow and blue sunburst. I have not found this one on
ecardmodels. Is this "private stock" or to be released? I went out today and bought the paints and varnish and will finish
my current Stampe in progress and start another with your suggested methods. I would like to build the blue and yellow
one mentioned. And as always thanks for taking the time.
John
02-23-2014, 04:02 AM
#50 (permalink)
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Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Jan, You have a steady hand. I think Leif's method may be necessary for us with a bit of a tremor. I have wanted
to ask. Among your photo's of Stampe's from another thread, you have a yellow and blue sunburst. I have not
found this one on ecardmodels. Is this "private stock" or to be released? I went out today and bought the paints
and varnish and will finish my current Stampe in progress and start another with your suggested methods. I
would like to build the blue and yellow one mentioned. And as always thanks for taking the time.
John
It is the DGA Stampe number SV4032.
In fact , I don't see it at Ecardmodels.
My model was a gift after I win the DGA challenge of this forum.
Send a PM to one of the DGA member on the forum
avbuffs or John Bowden or contact Ecardmodels to make it available.
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02-23-2014, 08:59 AM
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Each wheel half ( the largest disc ) is glued onto cardboard .
After drying and then cutting ,a gray felt is passing around the edges, the half wheels are bonded to one another and
liquid cyano glue is brushed over the slice to rigidify .
Photo74
After drying, the rim is regularly sanded through to give the profile, you can add the smaller discs by stacking them to
accentuate the effect :
Photo75
Finishing with a gray felt and then glue the wheel in place with cyano gel :
Photo76
A small metal rod is stuck between the gas tank in the upper wing and the engine to represent the fuel line :
Photo77
Now you can fixed the two wires from the front hole of the fuselage to the top of the forward strut .
A drop of liquid cyano, allowed to dry, the excess thread is cut :
Photo78
02-24-2014, 08:38 AM
Jan Kytop
#52 (permalink)
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For rigging I use thread for gloves that is much easier to use than nylon thread, for example.
For wire between the front and rear cabin struts, I dip a length of wire in liquid cyano to stiffen it and I wipe immediately.
The wire is then cut to the exact length and the two ends to receive a cyano gel microdrop.
Photo79
It only remains to glue the wire to the location:
Photo80
02-24-2014, 09:28 PM
#53 (permalink)
jyduchene
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I would have never though of wiping thread with superglue and stiffing it. One more for the big book of tips and tricks,
John
02-24-2014, 11:41 PM
Jan Kytop
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Quote:
I would have never though of wiping thread with superglue and stiffing it. One more for the big book of tips and
tricks,
John
It is because it is a cotton thread.
02-27-2014, 07:14 PM
jyduchene
#55 (permalink)
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Jan, Could you speak of the construction and attachment of the undercarriage and landing gear. Are these butt joints? Do
you reinforce the wheel struts? and what are you gluing the landing rig to the fuselage with cyano? Thanks and I hope
you return to demonstrate the spinner. My kits do not have them and yours appeare very uniform and perfect across all
your stampe.
Thanks, John
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02-28-2014, 12:53 AM
#56 (permalink)
Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Jan, Could you speak of the construction and attachment of the undercarriage and landing gear. Are these butt
joints? Do you reinforce the wheel struts? and what are you gluing the landing rig to the fuselage with cyano?
Thanks and I hope you return to demonstrate the spinner. My kits do not have them and yours appeare very
uniform and perfect across all your stampe.
Thanks, John
All the parts of the undercarriage are glued with cyano gel and with butt joins.
I have not reinforce the wheel struts but it is in 1/72.
If you build in 1/48 , I think it is a good idea.
You have to wait the next week for the spinner because I am preparing a small model show and I build a 1/200 model for
it.
02-28-2014, 01:17 AM
#57 (permalink)
foxacres
Join Date: Oct 2013
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Jan, Many thanks for the superb tutorial, I have been building paper aircraft for some time, but have learnt loads of new
techniques from you. Looking forward to starting my next model to try them out. Regards David
03-03-2014, 08:06 AM
Jan Kytop
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Continuation of the rigging with the wings:
Photo81
It is very important to identify on drawings and photos the trip of the wires. I use the least possible wire lengths; here ,2
lengths by half wing.
Wire tied to the top by gluing or loop , is then handed to each strut by turning around and secure with a drop of liquid
cyano. It continues to the next strut and so on:
Photo82
It ends with the controls fin:
Photo83
03-03-2014, 08:26 AM
#59 (permalink)
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Leif Ohlsson
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Very difficult to rig small-scale aeroplanes and keeping the scale appearance. Good job. - L.
03-05-2014, 09:17 AM
Jan Kytop
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A wire is glued in the side hole of the fuselage done before:
Photo84
I cut two small parts that represent commands of the rudder:
Photo85
They are put in place and, after drying, the wire is bonded to the tip:
Photo86
The rigging of the tail is done by passing a wire through the holes and gluing the ends around the tail wheel:
Photo87
Any edits (in particular areas where the white of the paper is visible ) is carried out with the nearest colors:
Photo88
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03-05-2014, 09:36 AM
Leif Ohlsson
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That is exquisite rigging. I've seen few who managed it in that scale.
You enticed me to go looking for Stampe SV4. If others get the same urge, here is a beautiful site with full details of restoring a
Stampe: The French Classique Aero Service - Stampe SV4.
>
- L.
03-05-2014, 10:01 AM
Jan Kytop
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Thank you , Leif ; this is an interesting link.
03-08-2014, 12:50 PM
Jan Kytop
Member
The spinner is carved into a barbecue wood pike:
#63 (permalink)
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Photo89
It is glued in place and covered with white glue to smooth it:
Photo90
The 4 exhausts are wound together on a thin metal rod:
Photo91
Then cut one by one and colored with a felt pen:
Photo92
And glued in place. Note that they are really hollow:
Photo93
03-08-2014, 02:45 PM
jyduchene
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#64 (permalink)
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Beautiful spinner Jan. I will spend the afternoon practicing my carving.
John
03-09-2014, 10:02 AM
Jan Kytop
Member
There are still some small details;
the propeller blades in paper are glued on the cone and the cone is painted:
#65 (permalink)
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Photo94
A pitot tube is installed on the left front stut (piece of a pin for butterfly size OOO):
Photo95
The floating fuel gauge is installed on the upper wing (piece of a pin for butterfly OOO):
Photo96
A mirror is glued over the front seat and allows the monitor to see the pupil in the rear seat (piece of aluminum foil glued on thick
paper):
Photo97
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03-09-2014, 10:28 AM
#66 (permalink)
John Bowden
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The devil (and a great looking model) are in the details!!!
When you are finished I'm still going to make a PDF and post it up on our site........
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My Drawings
03-09-2014, 10:47 AM
jagolden01
#67 (permalink)
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This has been a great SbS build. The information and instruction are very yelpful.
The results are astounding. Beautiful model and plane. Has given me a whole new appreciation for this type of subject!
Bravo!
Joe
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Curently building http://www.papermodelers.com/forum/s...d-repaint.html
03-09-2014, 05:43 PM
#68 (permalink)
jyduchene
Join Date: Jul 2007
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Jan, I am following along with my 1/48 and cannot approach the precision you demonstrait, think maybe I should go smaller?
just one more time thank you, and John I appreciate your offer of making a PDF archive of this build.
John
03-10-2014, 09:59 PM
#69 (permalink)
kahoody
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Jan, your build has been most informative. It's a great reference source for both skill and technique. Well done!
Yesterday, 01:46 PM
Jan Kytop
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Final details, setting up a radio antenna (still fine butterfly pin ):
Photo98
Finishing touches of varnish to hide any bright smudges of glue:
Photo99
And it ended with the hundredth picture.
Photo100
A big thank you to all those who have followed this post and encouraged me.
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I am going to miss this thread. I appreciate your efforts at explaining. You are a good teacher. Perhaps you will come
back with another tutorial (the Tiger Moth perhaps).
Again thank you for taking the time and effort to make this such an informative tutorial
John
Yesterday, 02:13 PM
Jan Kytop
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Here are some pictures of Stampe OO-MMD finished:
4 other Stampes were mounted at the same time with OO-MMD and I'll post the pictures in the coming days.
Yesterday, 03:32 PM
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Leif Ohlsson
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Exemplary tutorial, and a very good thing you've done for paper modeling here, Jan! - L.
Today, 12:26 AM
Jan Kytop
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leif Ohlsson
Exemplary tutorial, and a very good thing you've done for paper modeling here, Jan! - L.
Thank you very much Leif.
Today, 12:34 AM
#75 (permalink)
YOAVHOZMI
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looks amazing.
YOAV
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Jan Kytop
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The second Stampe of the batch is pretty fun because it is disguised as ... a Tiger Moth.
It bears an RAF camo of the most beautiful effect:
Today, 04:12 PM
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Alcides
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Thanks a lot for this compendium of tips. I appreciate a lot all the effort to put it together. I don't wanted interring the
post flow but every day I was coming for the next episode.
Congrats for your beautiful models and your great tutorial.
Alcides
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Finished!!!
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Step by step , Stampe SV4 building , [DGA] , 1/72

Transcription

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