Panel Scarf Two Versions -- Print Only

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©Panel Scarf Pattern – Jane Thornley – all rights reserved. Unauthorized copying prohibited.
Two Versions of Panel Scarf: Little Fishies & Raku
Think of the panel scarf as a canvas upon which to explore a wide range of
scarf-as-jewellery or scarf-as-belt adventures. The central panel becomes
the focal point from which you pick up stitches for the left and right sides.
For both Little Fishies and Raku, embellishments are added to the panel on icord fringes which are further beaded and festooned. For the Raku version,
the panel is differs only in the direction the rib stitches are knit. Of course,
the i-cords could be left off and the scarf transformed into something
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slightly more ‘plain’ that could even be worn as a belt. Pattern comes with a
stitch-by-number map to help guide the yarn changes for the Little Fishies
version. For Raku, follow the same stitch map but mix up the colors with your
own choices.
Sometimes every corpuscle of your body craves funky, a tad radical, and
these panel scarves are perfect for just such diversions. This design counts
among its fans women of all ages.
Feel free to mix the stitch sequence up however you want. That’s part of the
fun. Once you read the stitches I’ve used in each section, you’ll soon be able
to see what I’ve done in each version pictured. Though the pattern gives
instructions for a single point on each side, try working a flat bottom with
beaded edges for a change.
Each scarf is knit in three pieces, beginning with the central panel, with the
two side pieces created by picking up stitches along the panel’s sides. My
choice of stitches is very random with color being the single most important
factor. I’ll provide directions for exactly how I’ve put mine together but this
is a project that cries out of individuality. Don’t be afraid to try your own
combinations and embellishments.
Also, consider the ways you can modify the design. Try an evening look in
black and gold. Or, make the dangles and wear them backwards. The panel
scarf truly knows no bounds.
The yarns are all specialty fibers with a base of hand-dyed yarn along with
ribbon and small quantities of silk. Use your own mix of stash ends to create
interesting effects or follow the yarn guide below to capture the same tones
of Caribbean blue, green and flowing purple used for Little Fishies or the
more earthy tones of Raku.
The panels are the key ingredient to a successful scarf if you’re planning
embellishment as the piece must be sturdy enough to hold multiple dangles.
This means knitting the panel in a needle size smaller than usually
recommended for the yarn and knitting it Fair-Isle style in k2p2 rib. I used
a mixture of ribbons with a soft tape yarn to provide the look.
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MATERIALS
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Needles: 1 pair size 9 (5.5mm), 1 pair of size 7 (4.5 mm) 1 dpn size 7
(4.5mm),
beading thread,
beading needle
large-eyed tapestry needle
beads: I used real turquoise fish (5) with turquoise chips and a
mixture of seed beads in purple and turquoise for Little Fishies but
have also used freshwater pearls to good effect. Similar ones are
available through online bead shops such as New Mexico Bead & Fetish
or Firemountain.com. For Raku, seed beads in blues and iris-luster
golds work well.
YARNS
Basically, you’re seeking color here, not fibre content or even yarn weight.
As you can see, I mix things up, tending to forage in the higher end of the
yarn food chain amid the luxury fibers. Buy what you can afford. The
effects will still look great. Wherever I recommend silk or expensive fibers,
that’s only because I try to list my materials exactly as well as offering
alternatives but you could knit the panel (or any other part of this scarf)
with ANY yarn, ANY fibre. This is a stash project extraordinaire!
I began Little Fishies around a blue/green variegated hand-dyed ‘lead’ yarn-a kind of Caribbean blue (that mid-toned aqua reminiscent of tropical
holidays) mixed with a bright green and dash of purple. Mine is from Fleece
Artist’s Handmaiden line in a color called ‘Nova Scotia’ (retailers in yarn list)
but there are other options listed. If you can find something with all three
colors, better still. Hand-dyed yarns bring that subtle fluidity of color but
equally interesting effects can be found in other yarns.
Raku’s panel is designed around a fat, shiny yarn by Trendsetter called
Segue with alternating ribs in a soft brown tape yarn, Bon Bon, from Prism.
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Though I state ‘1 ball’ for each, in reality the project uses only little bits (no
more that 20 oz) for each type. If you buy fresh stock for this, expect to
have lots left over for additional fun. Aim for 1 ribbon, 1 tape, 2-3 plain or
hand-dyed coordinating yarns in any fibre, 1 mohair mix, 1 eyelash and a fun
bubble yarn that will really punch up the texture. The actual yarns I used
are starred (*).
1. HAND-DYED or HAND PAINTED ‘LEAD’ YARN (for Little Fishies only)
1 skein in seascape colors. This is for the texture stitches as well as for the
panel. I used:
• 1 hank hand-dyed Handmaiden 12-ply cashmere* (or Grande Godiva silk &
wool) in ‘Nova Scotia’. A list of retailers is available from their website at
http://handmaiden.ca/retailers_us.html
OR
• A close colorway to the one I used is available in Hand painted Merino
Wool from Morehouse Farms through fabulousyarns.com
Or
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Halcyon Yarns (Halcyonyarns.com) also sells a ‘Malabrigo’ merino yarn in
lovely hand-dyed colors. #7 in aqua hues or #9 in turquoise would work
beautifully for this project.
OR
• Similar shades are in the Prism line of custom-dyed ‘Stuff’ yarn
(chezcas.com). I often recommend Prism Stuff to get maximum variety
for minimum cost when considering the number of individual yarns you
may want to use in my projects. Look for ‘Lagoon’, ‘Splash’ or ‘Aruba’ in
Stuff either at your local yarn store or through the chezcas.com or the
yarnmarket.com. A single hank of Stuff in one of those colors will provide
enough yarn for most of this project along with enough left over for
other fabulous scarves. Prism Stuff is made up of many different kinds
of yarn all tied together and, though it may seem expensive, just try
buying all those yarns in individual balls.
OR
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Noro’s Silk Garden in #1 or #18 (Halcyonyarn.com)
2. PLAIN COLORED COORDINATING YARNS (add at least two. These will
be labelled ‘Plain 1’ and ‘Plain 2’ in instructions). ‘Plain’ doesn’t mean ordinary
just unvariegated.
These echo the colors in your hand-dyed yarn so select two plain coloured
yarns to mix between the diva stitches for a little visual relief. For example,
if your hand-dyed yarn has purple and green shades, select two plain yarns
(any fibre) in those colors. I used *Mission Falls cotton in purple
(Seaportyarns.com), *Blue Heron Rayon Tape in Bluegrass (chezcas.com) and
two silks in turquoise and purple (Halcyon Yarns Silkstones) BUT any plain
yarn in the right colors will do. Minimum is two for the best results.
Try:
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From Halcyon Yarn (Halyconyarn.com), Cotton Item #098 in color 236
(lime), 235 (purple) and 209 (Aqua) or *Silkstones Silks item 159
(Halcyonyarn.com) in colors #18, #10, or #29
Or
• Debbie Bliss Alpaca Silk DK in #9, 12 & 7 (Halyonyarns.com)
Or
• Any plain coloured yarn, in any weight or fibre that coordinates with the
chosen hand-dyed yarn.
3. RIBBONS (Use 2 for best results or substitute 1 of the ribbons for a
tape in instructions. Ribbons will be referred to as 1st ribbon and 2nd
ribbon for instructions):
*1 hank Judi& Co Luminess ribbon in Black Orchid for Little Fishies
panel (1st ribbon) OR Trendsetter Segue in color #12. This is thick
and glossy (available from yarnmarket.com).
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For Raku, use Seque in Country Meadow or Oatmeal
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4. TAPES (at least one) such as:
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1 hank of a soft, tape-like yarn like Prism Bon-bon in Aruba, Splash or
*Lagoon (yarnlady.com & Yarnmarket.com) for Little Fishies, Sage,
Tumbleweed or Mocha for Raku.
OR
1 hank Blue Heron Woven Rayon Tape in Bluegrass* ( chezcas.com) for
Little Fishies or Colinette’s Giotto in Lichen for Raku.
5. ANY MOHAIR MIX such as:
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1 ball *Trendsetter Dune in blue/green or purple for Little Fishies,
Gold/brown for Raku. This is a mohair mix which adds sparkly texture
(available at Chezcas.com)
6. ANY EYELASH in Coordinating Colors
7. HIGHLY TEXTURED YARN
Such as a bubble or flag yarn. Try:
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Prism Bubbles, Crystal Palace ‘Popcorn’ (Yarnmarket.com) or Trendsetter
‘Joy’.
Mixed seed beads in coordinating colors. For Little Fishies, you will also
require:
 5 medium-sized beads or pearls (I used copper-coloured
metallic ones)
 2 large big-holed beads (I used copper)
 1 medium big-holed bead (I used silver)
Gauge: N/A
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INSTRUCTIONS:
CENTRAL PANEL
The central panel can be either broad (measuring approximately 4-5” tall and
7” wide) or thinner (3-4” tall, 7” wide). Decide on the version you’d prefer
for the panel and follow the instructions accordingly after the first six rows
of alternating k2p2 rib.
*Tip: when working with multiple yarns featuring many yarn changes,
remember that those ends need to be managed. In a scarf like this where
both sides of the work will be exposed to prying eyes, it’s best to weave in
the yarn tails with a tapestry needle to achieve the neatest look. If you’re
particularly adept at knitting in your ends inconspicuously as you knit, then
go for it.
For Little Fishies:
With 1st ribbon and size 4.5 mm (7 US) needles, cast on 24 stitches.
• Knit two rows (garter stitch).
• Add tape yarn in a coordinating color and begin working two-color k2p2
rib for six rows, alternating the ribbon and the tape as you work across
each row and carrying the unused yarns loosely at the back of your work.
(* check panel height for preference at this point. If you’d like to make
yours no more than 4” tall, change yarns to a coordinating plain yarn, work
two rows of garter stitch and bind off at this point)
• Change yarns to Plain Yarn #1 (could be either of your two plain
coordinating yarns, depending on your color preferences) and knit two
more rows in garter stitch.
• Change yarns back to ribbon and knit another two rows garter stitch.
• Change yarn to tape and knit another two rows garter stitch
• Bind off loosely. Press gently on low setting.
For Raku:
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With tape yarn and size 4.5 (7 US) needles, cast on 19 stitches.
• Add in ribbon yarn in selected color and work K2p2 rib, alternating
two rows ribbon and two rows tape as you go. Work all right-side purl
rows in ribbon and right-side knit rows in tape.
• Work 20 rows or until piece measures approximately 6 inches long.
• Bind off in tape. Thread ribbon ends back through wrong side of panel
with tapestry needle. Press gently with iron set on low.
NOTE:
The pattern is devised in numbered stitch groupings or ‘vignettes’ (French,
loosely translated as ‘little pictures’) for both the right and left sides of the
scarf. Use the Stitch Grouping map as a guideline as you follow the
numbered instructions for both Little Fishies and Raku. Each grouping tells
you the stitch and yarn combinations for each vignette.
SCHEMATIC
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Each side of scarf averages 32-35” long while the panel is generally 6-7” long.
Variations are expected, accepted, encouraged and not to be fret over.
LEFT SIDE
(*left side refers to the scarf as worn)
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Vignette 1: Staying with smaller (4.5 mm) needles and ‘lead’ yarn (Raku
knitters use Giotto-like tape), pick up approximately 15 stitches along
the right side edge of the panel (the number of stitches needn’t be
exact. Work k1p1 rib for approximately 20 rows. This forms the part
of the scarf that wraps around your neck and the rib provides give
(most of it will be hidden behind the neck).
Vignette 2: Switch to larger needles and change yarns to Plain Yarn #1
and a mohair. Begin garter stitch (knit every row) for 16 rows,
alternating 2 rows of plain yarn with 2 rows of mohair and carrying
the unused yarn along the side of your work. At the same time,
increase 1 stitch at the beginning and end of every right side row 5
times.
Vignette 3: Change yarns to tape mixed with eyelash. Work seed
stitch (k1p1) for 8 rows.
Vignette 4: Change yarns to texture yarn. Work 2 rows mixed with
plain yarn. Change yarns to ribbon and work two-wrap drop stitch: Knit
first stitch then *wrap ribbon around needle twice, knit one stitch,
repeat from * until end of row. End row with a knit stitch. On the
reverse row, knit previous knit stitches while dropping the ribbon
wraps in between from the needle. Comb the ribbon drops with your
fingers until they hang straight. Change yarns back to bubble yarn
and work two more rows garter stitch.
Vignette 5: Change yarns to lead (hand-dyed) yarn and work six rows
of garter stitch, finishing by changing to a tape and working two more
rows garter.
Vignette 6: Change yarns to 2nd ribbon and work one-wrap drop stitch:
knit 1 stitch *wrap ribbon around needle once, knit one stitch, repeat
from * until end of row. End row with a knit stitch. On the reverse
row, knit previous knit stitches while dropping the ribbon wraps in
between from the needle. Comb the ribbon drops with your fingers
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until they hang straight. End section with 2 rows of garter using same
ribbon.
Vignette 7: Change yarns to lead yarn and work twelve rows of seed
stitch, mixing in eyelash in last two rows. Change yarns to 1st ribbon
and work two-wrap drop stitch: knit 1 stitch *wrap ribbon around
needle twice, knit one stitch, repeat from * until end of row. End row
with a knit stitch. On the reverse row, knit previous knit stitches
while dropping the ribbon wraps in between from the needle. Comb the
ribbon drops with your fingers until they hang straight.
Vignette 8: change yarns to plain yarn #1 mixed with eyelash and
plain yarn #2 and begin 14 rows of garter stitch, alternating two rows
of the plain with two rows of the eyelash combo. Finish with two rows
garter with the plain #1 /eyelash combo.
Vignette 9: Change yarns to lead yarn and knit four rows stockinet
(knit right side, purl reverse) followed by two rows garter using
bubble yarn, followed by four more rows stockinet.
Vignette 10: Change yarns to plain yarns #1&2 held together and knit
as one. Work stockinet stitch for four more rows ending with two
rows of texture yarn worked in garter stitch.
Vignette 11: Change yarns to mohair and work seed stitch (k1p1) for
eight rows.
Vignette 12: Add in plain yarn #2 and work garter stitch, alternating
two rows of mohair for 8 rows.
Vignette 13: Change to 1st ribbon and work two rows garter before
changing yarn to any textured yarn and working two more rows in
garter. Using 1st ribbon again, work two-wrap drop stitch: knit first
stitch then *wrap ribbon around needle twice, knit one stitch, repeat
until they hang straight. Knit two more rows of garter stitch using
bubble yarn.
Vignette 14- getting to the point: Using any yarn, begin seed stitch
(k1p1) while decreasing one stitch at each end of every right side row
until you have reached the last three stitches. Knit two together and
finish by passing one stitch over the other, cutting the yarn and
passing the tail through the remaining loop.
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Vignette 7 showing lead yarn in seed stitch followed
by two rows mixed with eyelash and the ribbon drop stitch
RIGHT SIDE
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Vignette 1 is a mirror image of the left side’s first vignette: using
smaller (US7/4.5 mm) needles and tape yarn, pick up approximately 15
stitches along the right side edge of the panel (the number of
stitches needn’t be exact but try to pick up stitch for stitch, the
number of stitches dependent on the height of your panel). Work
k2p2 rib for 20 rows.
Vignette 2: Change yarns to mohair mixed with eyelash and work four
rows garter stitch (knit every row)
Vignette 3: TIP: This section requires working three yarns, bringing
each one in at different times while carrying unused yarn along the
side of the work. The unused yarns should get neatly woven into the
side of the scarf automatically just through regular knitting. Change
yarns to plain yarn #1 and work six rows stockinet (knit right side,
purl reverse) before adding in plain yarn #2 and knitting four rows
garter, alternating the two plain yarns twice. Change back to mohair
and knit six rows of seed stitch before adding in two rows of plain
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yarn #1 and working garter stitch for two more rows. Return to the
mohair and work six more rows in garter.
Vignette 4: With the Mohair from the last section still on the needle,
add in an eyelash plus plain yarn #1 and work the three yarns together
in garter stitch for four rows. Change yarns to bubble yarn and knit
two more rows garter stitch.
Vignette 5: Change yarns to lead yarn and work ten rows seed stitch
before changing yarns to bubble yarn and working two rows garter
stitch.
Vignette 6: Change to mohair mixed with plain yarn #2 and knit seed
stitch for eight rows.
Vignette 7: Change to bubble yarn and work two rows garter before
changing to 1st ribbon and working two-wrap drop stitch: knit first
stitch then *wrap ribbon around needle twice, knit one stitch, repeat
until they hang straight. Knit two more rows of garter stitch using
bubble yarn.
Vignette 8: Change yarns to tape yarn and work knit-two-together
lace: knit first stitch * wrap yarn over needle once and knit the next
two stitches together ( k1, *yo, k2tog) repeat from * to end of row.
End with a knit stitch. On reverse row, knit across, knitting into
yarnover stitches to create new stitches. Follow with two rows
garter stitch using Plain yarn #2. Change back to tape yarn and repeat
knit-two-together lace: knit first stitch * wrap yarn over needle once
and knit the next two stitches together ( k1, *yo, k2tog) repeat from
* to end of row. End with a knit stitch. Follow with two rows garter
stitch using Plain yarn #2. Change back to tape and repeat lace stitch
once more: * wrap yarn over needle once and knit the next two
stitches together ( k1, *yo, k2tog) repeat from * to end of row. End
with a knit stitch.
Vignette 9: Change yarns to plain yarn #1 mixed with eyelash and knit
four rows before adding in tape yarn and knitting two rows garter
while leaving eyelash&plain yarn combo hanging on the side. End tape
yarn and continue knitting with eyelash & plain yarn combo for four
more rows of garter.
Vignette 10: Change yarns to bubble and knit two rows garter.
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•
Vignette 11: Getting to the point: Using lead yarn, begin seed stitch
(k1p1) while decreasing one stitch at each end of every right side row
until you have reached the last three stitches. Knit two together and
finish by passing one stitch over the other, cutting the yarn and
passing the tail through the remaining loop.
* I knit these asymmetrical, with one side slightly longer than the other to
add to the whimsical organic feel to the scarf. If you’re obsessive
compulsive, you may want to even yours out, in which case just measure as
you go and leave out rows to ensure you have both sides even.
Vignette 13 (Right) Bubble yarn amid two kinds of ribbon
BEADING THE DANGLES
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Another point in another version
I love the little turquoise fishies I ordered from New Mexico Bead& Fetish
but there are many fishy beads swimming around, should you decide to hook
a couple. The best for this project have the hole drilled from the fishie’s
back through to her belly so you’ll have an upright swimmer. If you can’t find
fish, try freshwater pearls. For mixers, any size 8 seed beads will do. If you
can, buy beads of different sizes and shapes. Besides pearls, I’ve also used
turquoise and beach glass in the one above. Glass always adds sparkle and,
luckily, glass seed beads are widely available.
You will be adding a dangle to the very tip of each side of your scarf. First,
take 10-inches of beading thread and slide one seed bead down the length.
Now thread both ends through the needle’s eye so that you have a doubled
length with the seed bead caught in the bottom loop. This will provide a little
anchor to secure the other beads. Put your needle through another seed and
slide it down until it rests against the anchor before adding more beads (5-8
14
is best), stacking them so that you have a mixture of different sizes and
shapes to add interest. Now, to secure the dangle, poke the needle up
through the point of the scarf end by three inches while keeping the thread
buried within the seed stitches. Check to make sure your bead stack is taut
with no thread showing between the top of the last bead and the point of
your scarf. Keep that tension while making small, securing, stitches deep
within the textured stitches. Remove the thread from the needle and tie a
knot. Cut the thread. Your fish should be properly hooked.
PANEL FISHIES
I-cord
I-cords are knit on double pointed needles (dpn) without turning the work.
Stitches are slid to the opposite end of the needle and knit again, with
the process repeated until the desired length is reached.
With double-pointed needles and lead yarn, cast on 3 stitches and knit to
the end of the row. Without turning your work, slide stitches back to
beginning of needle and k3 again. Repeat until cord reaches 6 inches in
length. Bind off until one stitch remains on the needle. Cut yarn leaving a
6-inch tail before slipping loop from the needle and drawing the tail
through loop. Pull tail to secure. Make three more i-cords approximately
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the same length (6 inches), plus two more 7 inches long and one 8 inches.
Or make only 4, as pictured below.
Hooking the Fish
Before you can hook the fish to the tips of your i-cords, you need to tuck
away that yarn tail. Thread the tail through the tapestry needle and poke
it straight up the center of the i-cord, bringing the end up out of the
side of the cord and cutting it close.
Cut approximately 10 inches of beading thread, and, while holding one end,
drop one seed bead onto the thread before threading both ends of the
onto a beading needle. This will be your anchor bead. Now drop your fish
bead (or bead of choice) over your beading needle and down the doubled
length of thread until it rests against the anchor bead. With the needle
held upright, slip more beads, of various sizes, over needle and along
thread until you have a bead stack approximately 1-2 inches long. Like
with the i-cords, I like to make the dangles of various lengths and not all
hook a fish. Experiment. To secure your bead stack to the i-cord, poke
your needle straight up the base of the i-cord, careful to keep the
thread taut enough to avoid exposing bare thread between the i-cord tip
and the bead stack. Tug gently before making several invisible stitches
deep into the i-cord before drawing out the thread, disengaging the
needle and tying a knot with the two thread ends. Cut close to cord.
Repeat for the other i-cords, varying bead composition slightly to keep
things interesting.
Beading the I-cords
Ready for more beading? I went organic by sewing beads along the sides
of the i-corn in a totally random fashion, rather like little barnacles
encrusting the sides of wharf pilings. If you’d like to duplicate the
encrusted look, cut a 10-inch length of beading thread, knot one end,
poke the thread deep into the tip of your i-cord above the fish dangles,
load some beads onto your needle and drawn the beaded thread around
the side of the cord while keeping the beads in place with your finger.
Bring the needle back through the i-cord, stack on more beads (no more
than 3 at a time works best) and repeat, piling beads on top of beads for
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an encrusted look. Another technique you can use is to sew the beads
around the cord in a circular fashion or just beading around the tip.
Attaching I-cords to Panel
With your tapestry needle, thread i-cord yarn tails through the needle
and bring up through the lower edge of neck panel, careful to space the
first roughly on the one side to make room for the other four. Make
several small invisible stitches by burying the yarn deep within the panel’s
edge stitches. Draw yarn out through back of panel, take yarn off needle
and tie a knot. Trim. Repeat for other cords.
Finishing
Secure all loose yarn ends by weaving them back through your work and
cutting off excess.
Made thinner and without the fish,
Another version of the Panel Scarf,
i-cords or dangles
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Panel Scarf Two Versions -- Print Only

Transcription

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