Document 6502341
Transcription
Document 6502341
some of their most popular motifs. The horse – jara - is a frequently featured symbol that visualizes transportation, travelling, trading, and hunting. Furthermore, horses are a vital part of the marriage dowries in Ngada. Manu jawa, the chicken, is a symbol for the continuity of life: the crowing of the rooster signals to the people that it is morning and time to commence one’s daily activities; besides the chicken also symbolizes the smallest animal offering, which is required on every step of house construction. The dragonor snake-shaped sawa ba’a is the protector of the house, more precisely of the ancestral spirits, which are believed to reside inside the house. BELARAGHI Image and article by Swisscontact Only some footsteps out of the village, there is a ritual site with five bhagalike houses called loka – one for each clan. The loka face the watu lanu, a construction consisting of an elevated stone court framed by ijuk-covered poles. This site is mainly used by the Belaraghi for the ‘bui loka’, a ceremony to initiate Reba, the Ngada wide New Year festivities. To the Belaraghi people, visitors from abroad are guests, not tourists. Therefore, guests are traditionally welcomed with a ceremony called ti’i ka ebu nusi, which translates as ‘give food to the ancestors’. It is about introducing the guests to the host’s ancestors, to ask for their blessings so that no obstacles may come in the way Ja’i, traditional welcome dance of the traveller, and to ask the evil spirits in the mountains not to cause any harm to them. The ritual takes place in the sao one, the most sacred inside part of a Ngada house. By reading the intestines of a sacrificed chicken, the mosalaki can see if there is any incidents on the way to Belaraghi, and he will make predictions about the continuation of the guests’ journey by the nature of the intestines. Ngadhu (male ancestral shrine) and Ture If you want to experience Ngada culture beyond popular Bena and Wogo, and if you are ready to invest a little time and physical effort, you should dare to hike to the extraordinary village of Belaraghi and spend the night in this beautiful place. You can look forward to being received by an extraordinarily warm, open hearted small community with a good sense of humor. The concerns about your bruises and blisters will immediately disappear when Belaraghi reveals itself in front of you like an old hidden but precious treasure out of this world. Belaraghi has seen only few visitors yet, to most of them, it was love at first sight. The sixteen beautiful traditional houses are located in a secluded forest clearing, providing natural harmony. The people of Belaraghi have been rejecting any changes to their houses i.e. tin roofs or concrete walls, not for the sake of tourism, but out of their own conviction that their houses and the cultural values attached to them are worth being maintained. The sixteen traditional houses, standing tidily in two parallel rows, are renovated on a regular basis and are thus in very good condition. Five of those sixteen houses are so-called sao pu’u, first or original After ti’i ka ebu nusi, it is time to sit together for conversation and a shared meal. As there is no electricity yet in Belaraghi, the soft light of the oil-lamps brings a very cozy atmosphere inside the neat and clean wooden houses. At night, enjoy these rare moments of silence, with only nature’s sounds that will accompany you to sleep. As Belaraghi is already close to the coast, it will not get as cold as in Bajawa at night. houses, which are indicated by a miniature house on the roof; the other five distinct buildings are sao lobo, ‘last houses’, which feature a miniature human figure on the roof. Five is also the number of clans living in Belaraghi at present. Each of the clan has its own sao pu’u, sao lobo, as well as a ngadhu and a bhaga. However, there are only three pairs of ancestral shrines because two of the clans are still waiting for the appropriate time to bring them from another village to Belaraghi. Besides the buildings mentioned, the Belaraghi clans are also affiliated with another house type: the sao kaka (with kaka meaning ‘to share’). These houses are considered ‘children’, the descendents of a clan’s sao pu’u and sao lobo. Some of the sao kaka is even located in other villages. The kaka inhabitants support their families in the sao pu’u and the sao lobo financially, materially and with work power. How to get there The most interesting and rewarding, but also most demanding, way to reach Belaraghi is by a 11 km hike starting from Beiposo village near Bajawa. This hike is not recommended during the rainy season. As you will mostly follow downward paths in the forest that are rarely used and hard to find by the untrained eye, it is indispensable to have a versatile guide with you. Furthermore, a good guide can explain the many interesting facts about the lush flora that you will encounter during your journey, and can clarify your questions about local culture. A guide can also organize accommodation for you in the village. The next morning, you can continue your hike on a broader road heading towards the coast of Aimere. Depending on your stamina, you can jump on your pre-organized transportation earlier or further down the main road. Carvings are an important element of Ngada buildings. They can be found outside and inside the houses, prominently the sao pu’u, as well as on the ancestral shrines. In Belaraghi, you get a good opportunity to look closer at Landscape of vast hilly land and Aimere coast before reaching Belaraghi village (top) Traditional house entrance (bottom) 14 | TransNusa | Inflight Magazine | Nov - Dec 2011 TransNusa | Inflight Magazine | Nov - Dec 2011 | 15 Experience... A most beautiful and luxurious beach resort towards Keligejo village, drive to Pauleni village and register in the guestbook as a visitor to Belaraghi. Continue your drive to Paukate village, passing the SDK Paukate and the Kantor Kepala Desa (village head office) Keligejo. The distance from the Keligejo junction to Paukate village is less than 4 km. Paukate is a good starting point for your hike. If you are on your own motorbike or car, ask at one of the local houses to park your vehicle there (a small donation would be appreciated). If you have a car or ojek driver, don’t forget to arrange a pick up time. There are not many guides who can assist the trekking to Belaraghi yet. Wilhelmus Doi, an experienced trekking guide from Bajawa who is well versed in Ngada nature and culture, may even be the only one at the moment. He can give you more information about the different options and arrange everything for the trekking, from the transportation to the accommodation in the village. If you want to see Belaraghi with less effort in a day, you can also reach the village in less than 3 km hike that starts at Paukate village. Passing on a good and mostly even road, you will be surrounded by beautiful wideopen and soft-hilled grasslands with a stunning view of the Aimere coastline. Belaraghi is one of Flores’ cultural gems featured in a book published by Swisscontact - Flores: A Glimpse of the People and Culture. From Bajawa, take the Transflores highway towards Aimere. After about 2.5 km, take a right turn at the Ende – Aimere junction. About 35 km on, at the junction For more information, please see www.florestourism.com An adat elder of Belaraghi Explore the extraordinary Out now The Bintang Flores Resort, with its spacious grounds fronting a private beach * 59 Air Conditioned Deluxe Rooms * 2 Air Conditioned Deluxe Suites * TV Channel * Restaurant * Swimming Pool * Fitness Center * Meeting Room * Dive Shop Two travel guides are available about Flores Flores: A Glimpse of the People & Culture Flores: Diving around Komodo Flores: A Glimpse of the People & Culture Flores: Diving around invites you on a trip through the social and cultural life of an extraordinary island. Blessed with beautiful, natural surroundings, fascinating people and amazing cultures and traditions, the book presents Flores ready to unveil its hidden and unhidden treasures. w w w 16 | TransNusa . f l o | Inflight Magazine | Nov - Dec 2011 r e s t o u r i s Komodo offers a first taste of the diversity that awaits keen divers in Flores Komodo. But it has been created not only to share with divers the unique experience of exploring Flores underwater natural beauty, but also to provide local information, guidelines and practicalities to help travelling. m . c o m Pantai Pede, Labuan Bajo 86554, Flores, Indonesia Tel (62-385) 42 000 Fax (62-385) 41 333 Bali Sales Office: Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta, Tuban, Bali 80361, Indonesia Tel (62-361) 753 930 Fax (62-361) 753 931 www.bintangfloreshotel.com