Leopard Geckos

Transcription

Leopard Geckos
Zoo Med’s
Guide to
Leopard
Geckos
by Jim Morgan
Zoo Med's Guide to
Leopard Geckos
by Jim Morgan
Table of Contents
Introduction............................................................1
Native Habitat, Range & Anatomy........................1
Choosing a Leopard Gecko....................................2
Morphs...................................................................3
Handling & Enclosure............................................6
Lighting, Heating...................................................6
Substrate, Feeding & Watering..............................7
Health.....................................................................8
Sexual Dimorphism & Breeding............................9
Incubation............................................................10
Hatching Care, Similar Geckos............................11
Summary, Books..................................................12
ISBN 978-0-9652471-7-7
Copyright ©2013 Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form
without the permission of Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.
Introduction:
Leopard Geckos (Eublepharis macularius) are one of the best reptile pets
available and are a great choice for beginner reptile owners. Leopard Geckos
were first described as a species by
British zoologist Edward Blyth in
1854. Leopard Geckos and other
members of the subfamily Eublepharidae are different from most other
geckos because they have eyelids.
The name Eublepharis macularius
refers to Leopard Geckos having true
eyelids and spotted markings.
The Leopard Gecko is a long-lived
reptile. They can live an average of six to
ten years; however, with proper care they can live twenty or even twenty five
years. The oldest known Leopard Gecko in captivity was recorded at twenty
nine years old.
Native Habitat and Range:
Leopard Geckos are native to Afghanistan, Pakistan, Southeastern Iran,
and Northwestern India. They inhabit the dry grasslands and rocky deserts
of their range. The climate of this range is very hot and moist during the
summer and cool and dry during the winter. They are a nocturnal, ground
dwelling gecko that spends the day hiding under rocks or in humid burrows
to escape the daytime heat. At dusk they emerge to hunt for insects. Leopard
Geckos are common in their native range and have been captive bred in the
United States since the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. Captive bred leopard
geckos are readily available; however, breeders in the United States would
benefit from adding wild bloodlines to their current breeding colonies.
Anatomy:
The average Leopard Gecko grows to 8-10 inches long. They have a broad
head and large ear cavities. Leopard Geckos have rough, bumpy skin.
The “normal” wild type is covered in black spots with brown bands interspersed with the spots. The background color may be tan or yellowish. As
hatchlings, Leopard Geckos are more vividly marked. Hatchlings will have
alternating broad black and yellow bands across their back and black and
white rings on their tails. The black bands will break up and become spots
as they mature. Unlike many geckos, Leopard Geckos have five toes on each
foot with small claws as an alternative to toe pads, which prevent them from
climbing smooth vertical surfaces. On the other hand, their claws give extra
traction in terrain and are helpful in digging burrows.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Eye
Ear
Tail
Mouth
Vent
Pre-anal Pores
(male)
Hemipenile
Bulge (male)
Toes
A Leopard Gecko’s tail retains nutrient-rich fat. In times of famine they
metabolize this fat reserve and can endure a period of weeks without food.
Similar to other lizards, Leopard Geckos have the ability to drop their tail.
When frightened or grabbed by the tail, muscles at the base of the gecko's
tail contract and sever the vertebrae of the tail. The tail continues to wiggle,
distracting a potential predator, and gives the gecko time to make a getaway.
The Leopard Gecko will grow a new tail; however, it will be different than
the original, appearing bulbous.
Choosing a Leopard Gecko:
There are a few important things to look for when choosing a Leopard
Gecko. First, is the animal healthy? A Leopard Gecko should have a thick,
robust tail. A fat tail is a good indication that the gecko is hydrated, eating
well, and in good general health. Healthy Leopard Geckos may also have
small fat reserves behind its front armpits. This is an especially good sign
in female geckos. The gecko’s eyes should be open and clear, and the gecko
should be alert. Ensure that all toes are accounted for as shedding problems
commonly lead to missing toes.
Second, consider what morph to acquire. Leopard Geckos are available in
hundreds of different colors and patterns called morphs. Take some time to
research all the morphs available.
Finally, is it a male or female?
This may not make a difference if only one Leopard Gecko
is to be kept, but if more than
one Leopard Gecko are housed
together, this may be an important thing consider. Two male
Leopard Geckos will fight and
cannot be housed together. Multiple females will live together in
harmony. A male and female pair
or a harem (a male with multiple females) can also be kept
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
together. Leopard Geckos have a high level of social tolerance but do not
necessarily require a companion.
Morphs:
There is an astonishing variety of Leopard Gecko morphs
available in the
reptile hobby. Each
of these morphs
Wild Type Leopard Gecko
has its own specific
genetics and traits that affect color, pattern, and even the size of Leopard
Geckos. Multiple morphs can be 'mixed' or 'bred' together to make combination morphs. Due to the extensive list of Leopard Gecko morphs, only a few
of the most popular will be described here.
Wild Type or Normal
This is the typical form as it occurs
in nature. Coloration is typically tan
to medium yellow with stripes or
bands of gray or lavender with black
spots.
High Yellow
This morph is very similar to a
normal but with a higher amount of
yellow pigmentation.
High Yellow Leopard Gecko
photo courtesy of Steve Sykes, geckosect.com
Tangerine "Carrot Tail"
This describes the varying degrees
of orange coloration on a Leopard Gecko. Animals labeled as Tangerine (or
"Tang" for short) will have orange as a background color as opposed to the
typical light yellow color seen on normal Leopard Geckos. The intensity
of the orange color may vary from a yellow-orange to nearly red on some
specimens. "Carrot Tail" is a term used to describe a Leopard Gecko that has
an area of orange that starts at the base of the tail. The amount of "carrot"
varies from just a small band at the
base of the tail to a solid orange tail.
Albino
There are three strains of
albinos. Albinos are generally
recognized by their lack of
black pigment. Having red
eyes is not a requirement
in Leopard Geckos to
be considered albino.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
Albino Leopard Gecko
3
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Albinos are usually characterized by their light-colored eyes and tendency to
have brownish markings on them. The three types of albino Leopard Geckos
are called Tremper Albino, Rainwater Albino, and Bell Albino.
Patternless "Murphy's
Patternless"
Patternless Leopard Geckos
may also be referred to as
leucistic. They are known
for their lack of pattern as
adults, and as babies they
Patternless Leopard Gecko
photo courtesy of Steve Sykes, geckosect.com
have a unique spotted appearance.
The color of a Patternless is generally yellow over the whole body. They
may have orange coloring at the base of the tail.
Blizzard
The Blizzard morph is patternless and white or gray in
color. Blizzards are similar to
the Patternless morph in appearance. They may occasionally have varying degrees of a
yellow on the body. Blizzards
do not have any pattern, at
any stage of maturity, and do not
exhibit a noticeable amount of "carrot
tail" like the Patternless morph.
Mack Snow and Super Snow
Mack Snows exhibit reduced or
eliminated yellow and orange
color with reduced banding. Mack
Snows can be black and white,
although some specimens show
varying degrees of yellow. Super
Snows are characterized by their
unique, high contrast black and
white pattern and their solid black
eyes. This pattern does not present itself on a hatchling Leopard
Gecko, but usually develops within
a month or so.
Blizzard Leopard Gecko
photo courtesy of Steve Sykes, geckosect.com
Super Snow Leopard Gecko
Jungle, Bold Stripe, and Reverse Stripe
Jungles are characterized by their broken bands of pattern and no two are
identical. A Leopard Gecko is only a true Jungle if the rings around the tail
are broken. Bold Stripes appear similar to Jungles, although the dark pigment runs only along the outside ventral surface of the animal's body and
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
tail. The amount of striping
can vary, and some geckos
will have a striped body
without a striped tail and
vice versa. Reverse Stripe
appear similar to Bold Stripe
although the darker pigment
runs down the spine.
Jungle Leopard Gecko
photo courtesy of Steve Sykes, geckosect.com
Hypomelanistic "Hypo"
and Super-Hypo
Hypomelanistic is a term used to describe the lack of dark color on non-albino Leopard Geckos. A “Hypo” Leopard
Gecko displays a greatly reduced amount
of dark pigment on its body,
although some spots may be present. A Super-Hypo is essentially
Super-Hypo Leopard Gecko
a Hypomelanistic that completely
lacks any spots on its body.
Enigma
The Enigma morph is a very unusual morph. The genetics of this
morph act as a “morph enhancer”
and tends to increase the colors
and patterns of other morphs.
There are a few common features
Enigma Leopard Gecko
which that identify Enigmas. When
they hatch, their spots tend to be
blotches rather than bands. Their
tails are normally all white. As
they grow, their spotted patterns increase and turn into speckles. Most
Enigmas will exhibit spectacular
orange pigmentation. For a more
in depth description of the Enigma
morph visit LeopardGeckoWiki.
com.
Giants and Super Giants
This Leopard Gecko morph affects
size and can be in combination
with any morph. The Super Giants
are the largest Leopard Geckos,
with a record weight of 156 grams
and a length of nearly 12 inches.
Giant & Normal Leopard Gecko
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Handling:
When handling a Leopard Gecko it is best to be seated on the floor, and let
your gecko crawl through loose fingers, in hand-over-hand motion for 10 to
15 minutes per day. Never grab or hold a gecko by its tail. Pulling on a leopard Geckos tail may cause the gecko
to drop its tail. Always remember
to wash your hands or use hand
sanitizer before and after handling
any reptile.
Enclosure:
A 10 gallon terrarium will house one
adult Leopard Gecko comfortably.
Zoo Med's ReptiHabitat™ Leopard
Gecko Kit is a great choice because
Leopard Gecko setup
it comes with most of the supplies
needed. A 20 gallon terrarium should be used if more than one Leopard
Gecko is kept together. It is a good idea to have a screen top on your gecko’s
enclosure that will prevent the gecko from escaping, support a light fixture,
provide good ventilation, and keep out possible intruders such as a house
cat. Live or artificial plants, rocks, logs, and hiding places can also be added
for a natural looking terrarium and will provide your gecko with places to
hide and climb, creating behavior enrichment.
Lighting and Heating:
Leopard Geckos should be provided a temperature gradient in their tank. A temperature
gradient will allow the gecko to select the
temperature that best suits its needs. This can
be accomplished by heating one end of the cage
and allowing the other end to be cool. The warm
side should be 90° F and the cool side should
LF-19 Mini Combo Deep
Dome Lamp Fixture™
73°-78° F. There are many
ways to heat your Leopard Gecko's enclosure. Zoo Med’s Mini
Combo Deep Dome Lamp Fixture can be
used with Day Light Blue™, Night Light
Red™, and Moonlite™ heat bulbs. Zoo
Med's Repti Therm® U.T.H. (under tank
heater) pad or Zoo Med's Repti Heat Cable
can also be used. Heating devices can be
controlled with Zoo Med's ReptiTemp®
NR-60
500R Thermostat or the ReptiTemp®
Nightlight Red™
RH-4 ReptiTherm®
Rheostat.
Reptile Bulb
Undertank Heater
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Leopard Geckos are active at night; therefore, they do
not require a UV light, but current research has shown that
they may benefit from some exposure to UVB. A ReptiSun®
5.0 UVB bulb can be used for this. Leopard Geckos should
be provided a 12 hour day / 12 hour night cycle.
Substrate:
Sand offers the most natural substrate
for sub adult and adult Leopard geckos.
Zoo Med's Vita-Sand® and ReptiSand®
are good choices. Zoo Med's Excavator®
Clay Burrowing Substrate can be used
for a natural FS-C5 Reptisun®
Compact Fluorescent
enclosure
and to provide fun tunnels for
Leopard Geckos to enjoy. Excavator® substrate will allow
XR-10 Excavator®
Clay Burrowing Substrate
Leopard Geckos to dig tunnels
and burrows just like they
do in nature. The keeper can
watch their Leopard Gecko
performing natural digging
behaviors. This substrate can
be molded to create multilevel terraces and burrows in
NT-B40 Reptihabitat™ 40 gallon setup with
Excavator® and LF-25 Dual Deep Dome Lamp
the Leopard Gecko’s enclosure. Make your reptiles feel
like they are "at home" in their natural habitat. Excavator™
holds its shape so burrows and tunnels won't collapse. Zoo
Med’s Repti Cage Carpet™ and Eco Carpet™ is always a
ZM-42 Can O'
safe bet for young Leopard Geckos.
Worms™
Leopard Geckos need a humid place to hide. Zoo Med’s
Repti Shelter™ filled with Eco Earth® coconut fiber, New
Zealand Sphagnum Moss, or Terrarium Moss™ is a good
way to provide this. This humid hiding place will help
prevent shedding problems and can be used by females for
egg laying.
ZM-48 Can O'
Pillars™
Feeding and Watering:
Leopard Geckos are insectivores which make them easy to
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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ZM-41 Can O'
Crickets™
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
feed. They will eat crickets and mealworms
enthusiastically. Leopard Geckos can also
be fed Zoo Med's Can O' Pillars™, Can O'
Worms™, and Can O' Crickets™. Vitamins
and calcium supplements are also very important. Zoo Med's Repti Calcium® and ReptiVite™ can be used to dust feeder insects.
Leopard Geckos may come from an arid
environment, but they do require water. A
shallow water dish with fresh water must be
available at all times.
A35-8
Reptivite™
A34-8 Repti
Calcium™
Health:
Leopard Geckos are very hardy and tolerant of their environmental requirements, so it is unusual to have many health issues with them. With good
nutrition and proper care they can live long lives; however, even with a good
husbandry and diet, illness can still occur.
Impaction- Impaction is normally caused by the gecko ingesting substrates
to try and make up for a dietary deficiency. Low temperatures and dehydration can cause inadequate digestion which may contribute to impaction problems. To prevent impaction, use an appropriate substrate, keep the enclosure
the correct temperature, feed appropriate sized food, offer the gecko Repti
Calcium® and ReptiVite™, and keep fresh water available.
Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD)- Metabolic Bone Disease is the body’s
inability to absorb and use calcium. This can cause bones to become soft
resulting in severe deformities, broken legs, and soft jaws. MBD can be
prevented by keeping the animal in a proper environment and offering the
correct diet. Providing Repti Calcium® and ReptiVite™ supplements with
vitamin D3 will also help prevent MBD. A UVB light bulb such as ReptiSun® 5.0 will allow a gecko to produce its own vitamin D3 to help metabolize calcium.
Shedding Problems- Shedding problems are the most likely
health issue with Leopard Geckos. This is commonly from
not having a humid hiding place. Leopard Geckos may get
old skin stuck especially around the toes and tail tip. This
can lead to circulation problems and may result in missing
toes. Problems with shedding can also cause eye infections.
Zoo Med's Repti Shedding Aid works well to loosen up the
old skin and can be used once a month as a preventative.
This problem is easy to prevent by increasing the humidity.
Parasites- Leopard Geckos can be affected by internal and
external parasites. Symptoms of internal parasites include
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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MD-31 Repti
Shedding Aid
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
loss of appetite, bloating, sudden weight loss, and constipation. Internal
parasites may need to be treated by a veterinarian. Mites are external parasites that can affect Leopard Geckos. Keeping the cage clean and using Zoo
Med’s Mite Off will normally remedy a mite infestation.
Sexual Dimorphism:
Leopard Geckos have sexual dimorphism and it is easy to distinguish males
from females. Males are generally larger, with broad heads. Males have
two distinct bulges behind the vent
at the base of the tail called hemipenes (male reproductive organs).
In addition, Males have a distinctive
V-shaped row of pre-anal pores in
front of the vent. As the gecko matures, they become quite prominent.
Females will not have hemipenile
bulges but may have very faint preanal pores. Juvenile Leopard Geckos
can be very difficult to sex until they
are six to twelve months old.
Breeding:
Leopard Gecko female
Leopard Geckos are a great choice
for a reptile breeding project. With
all the Leopard Gecko morphs available this species can be a very fascinating project for anyone interested
in genetics. Before breeding Leopard
Geckos make sure the geckos are full
grown, healthy and at a good weight.
It is recommended by some breeders
that males be a minimum of eight
months old and have a weight of 45
grams and females be a minimum of
one year old and at weigh least 50
grams.
Leopard Gecko male
Mating may seem to be a violent affair with Leopard Geckos. When a male
encounters a female that is ready to breed, he will begin to pursue her. He
will rapidly vibrate his tail and will begin scent marking. He will begin biting her, often at the base of the tail at first. The male will then move forward
a little with each bite in hopes of achieving a neck hold. This biting behavior
is usually harmless to the female. The male will then curl his tail under the
female’s tail and copulation will take place.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
After breeding the female Leopard Gecko will need
a place to lay eggs. Zoo Med’s Repti Shelter™
makes a good nesting site. The
Repti Shelter™ can be filled
with Eco Earth® coconut fiber,
New Zealand Sphagnum Moss,
or Terrarium Moss to provide
a humid place for the female
to lay eggs. The female will
lay her first clutch of two eggs
CF3-NZ New Zealand
RC-30 Repti Shelter™
within four weeks of mating.
Sphagnum Moss™
Naturalistic shelter
After the first clutch she will
continue to lay two eggs every two to four weeks. A female Leopard Gecko
can lay up to eight clutches in a breeding season.
Incubation:
Now that your gecko has laid eggs, the eggs need to be removed and placed
in an incubator like Zoo Med’s ReptiBator®. When removing the eggs from
the nest it is important to keep them in the
same position they were laid. Place the
eggs in a container with moistened media.
Vermiculite is a commonly used media
to incubate reptile eggs. This can be
acquired from a specialty reptile shop or
at a garden center. If you purchase it from
a garden center, be sure that it does not
have any fertilizers, pesticides, or herbicides. Put a small amount of vermiculite
RI-10 ReptiBator® Digital Egg Incubator
into the incubation container about one
inch deep. Add water to the vermiculite at a ratio of 1:1 vermiculite to water
by weight. Use your finger to make small indentations for each egg. Then set
the eggs in place without rotating them. Cover the eggs approximately half
way with some of the moist vermiculite. Now add a lid to the
container and place it in the incubator.
The eggs should be incubated at 80° - 91° F. Leopard Gecko
eggs have temperature determined sex. This means that the
gender of a hatchling can be selected by incubating at a certain
temperature. Usually eggs that are incubated at 90° F will be
male and eggs incubated at 80° F will be female. If the eggs
are incubated at 85° F the chances are 50/50 for either male or
female. The eggs will usually hatch in 30 to 105 days. Males
will generally hatch faster than females because of the higher
incubation temperatures.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
10
CC-10
Repti Cage
Carpet™
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Hatchling Care:
Caring for hatchling Leopard Geckos is fairly similar
to caring for sub adults
and adults. They should be
kept in an enclosure with
the same temperatures that
adults are kept at. Hatchlings should be kept on a
non-particulate substrate
Baby Leopard Gecko
such as paper towels, newspaper, or Repti Cage Carpet™. Hatchlings shed very frequently so a humid
hiding area should be provided to help prevent shedding problems. It is also
very important to offer appropriate sized foods on a daily basis.
Similar Geckos:
The African Fat-tailed Gecko
(Hemitheconyx caudicinctus)
is very similar to the Leopard Gecko. They are also a
nocturnal, ground-dwelling
gecko. Like Leopard Geckos
Fat-tailed Geckos are members of the subfamily Eublepharinae. The Fat-tailed
Gecko is native to West
Africa. Their habitat is dry and
arid like that of the Leopard
Gecko, although, in captivity
they need a higher humidity and a substrate
that has sand and soil. The dietary
needs of African Fat-tailed Geckos
are the same as Leopard Geckos.
African Fat-tailed Geckos are also
available in many color morphs
and are regularly available as
captive bred.
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
11
Albino African Fat Tailed Gecko
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Summary:
Leopard Geckos are an amazing pet that will make a fantastic addition to
any household. Hands down, Leopard Geckos are one of the most popular
reptiles available in captivity. A combination of their beauty, docile nature,
and easy care make them a joy to keep. Leopard Geckos come in an unbelievable variety of colors and patterns. Captive bred Leopard Geckos can be
found in pet stores, at reptile shows, and from private breeders. This book is
a guide to basic Leopard Gecko care, if you think a Leopard Gecko may be
the right pet for you, or if you are interested in breeding Leopard Geckos,
check out these sources for more advanced information.
Books:
The Herpetoculture of Leopard Geckos: by Phhilippe de Vosjoli, Ron
Tremper, and Roger Klingenberg, DVM
The Leopard Gecko in Captivity: By Robbie Hamper
Leopard Geckos: By Friedrich Wilhelm Henkel, Michael Knothig,
and Wolfgang Schmidt
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
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©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
Zoo Med Leopard Gecko Products:
RC-30 Repti Shelter™
Naturalistic shelter
NT-L10 Leopard Gecko Kit
CF3-New Zealand
Sphagnum Moss™
RI-10 ReptiBator® Digital Egg Incubator
CC-10 Repti Cage
Carpet™
ZM-42 Can O' Worms™
ZM-48 Can O' Pillars™
EE-08 Eco Earth®
Coconut Fiber Substrate
XR-10 Excavator®
Clay Burrowing Substrate
ZM-41 Can O'
Crickets™
MA-M Mopani Wood
WFC-30 Repti Rock
Food & Water Dishes
Zoo Med’s Guide to Leopard Geckos
ZM-14 Leopard
Gecko Food
13
©Zoo Med Laboratories Inc., 2013
More Zoo Med Leopard Gecko Products:
MD-31 Repti
Shedding Aid
Rh-4 ReptiTherm®
Undertank Heater
FS-C5 ReptiSun®
5.0 UVB
WC-8 Reptisafe™
Water Conditioner
WO-18
Wipe Out 1™
HT-500R ReptiTemp®
Thermostat
MR-60 Moonlite®
Reptile Bulb
A35-8
Reptivite™
A34-8 Repti
Calcium™
LF-19 Mini Combo Deep
Dome Lamp Fixture™
NR-60 Nightlight
Red™ Reptile Bulb
Item #ZB-50
DB-60 Daylight
Blue™ Reptile Bulb
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Phone: (805) 542-9988 | Email: [email protected]
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