- TAKORADI POLYTECHNIC REPOSITORY
Transcription
- TAKORADI POLYTECHNIC REPOSITORY
TAKORADI POLYTECHNIC DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN TOPIC THE USE OF EXOTIC FABRICS IN PRODUCING APPAREL FOR A BRIDESMAID BY YEBOAH SALOMEY YAYRA INDEX NUMBER 07081823 PRESENTED TO THE DEPARTMENT OF FASHION DESIGN AND TECHNOLOGY IN PARTIAL FULFILLMENT FOR THE REQUIREMENT FOR THE AWARD OF HIGHER NATIONAL DIPLOMA IN FASHION JULY 2011 1 DECLARATION I Yeboah Salomey Yayra declare that with the exception of references made from other sources which have all been dully acknowledged, this work is a true presentation of the outcome of my own research findings that it has neither been wholly nor partly presented for any diplomat elsewhere. …………………... ……………………. MRS SCOLASTICA AZUAH ( DATE) (supervisor) 2 i CERTIFICATION This is to certify that this project work is the candidate; Yeboah Salomey Yayra owns the account of the research in partial fulfillment of the requirement of the award of the Higher National Diploma in fashion design and Technology and has been presented in the accordance with rules and regulation that governs the preparation of project in Takoradi Polytechnic. NAME: MRS SCHOLASTICA AZUAH SIGNATURE…………………. (INTERNAL SUPERVISOR) DATE……………… NAME: MS EDNA NYAME PHYLIPS SIGNATURE…….......................……. (HEAD OF DEPARTMENT) DATE……………………. NAME: (EXTERNAL EXAMINER) 3 ii DEDICATION I dedicate this project to my parents Ms Esther Kumeko and Mr. David Yeboah, my brothers and everyone who helped me in making this a success. Not forgetting my brothers and sister who supported me throughout. 4 iii ACKNOWLEDGEMENT My sincere gratitude goes to God almighty for his care, guidance and protection without which I could not have come this far academically. I am also grateful to my parents, Mr. David Yeboah and Ms Esther Kumeko. Also my sincere gratitude to my brothers Marvel, Solomon, Divine, Vital and my sister Dinah not forgetting Mr. M.S. Bloe for their financial support and advice. My sincere gratitude to my supervisor Mrs. Scholastica Azuah for her great supervision, her direction and guidance made it possible for writing this project. 5 iv TABLE OF CONTENT PAGE DECLARATION i CERTIFICATION ii ACKNOWLEDGE iii DEDICATION iv CHAPTER ONE: INTRODUCTION 1.1 BACKGROUND OF THE STUDY 1 1.2 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM 2 1.3 OBJECTIVE OF THE STUDY 3 1.4 SIGNIFICANCE 3 1.5 LIMITATION 4 1.6 DELIMITATION 4 1.7 ORGANISATION OF THE STUDY 4 CHAPTER TWO: LITERATURE REVIEW 2.0 INTRODUCTION 5 6 2.1 HISTORY OF BRIDESMAIDS 5 2.1 FUNCTIONS OF A BRIDESMAID 7 v 2.1.1 BRIDESMAIDS RESPONSIBILITY 7 2.2 TYPES OF FABRICS USE FOR BRIDESMAIDS GARMENT 8 2.3EXOTIC 10 2.4 BROCADE 10 2.4.1 FEATURES OF BROCADE 11 2.4.2 MOTIFS OF BROCADE 12 2.4.3 USES OF BROCADE 12 2.5 SATIN FABRIC 12 CHAPTER THREE: METHODOLOGY 3.0 INTRODUCTION 14 3.1 THE DESIGN PROCESS 14 3.1.2THE CUSTOMER PROFILE 15 3.1.3 THE THEME BOARD “FLORAL” 15 3.1.4 THE STYLE BOARD 16 3.1.5 THE DESIGN BOARD 16 3.1.6 THE DESIGN BRIEF 18 7 3.1.7a THE SPECIFICATION BOARD (ILLUSTRATION BOARD) 18 3.1.7b FABRIC BOARD 19 vi 3.2 THE PATTERN PRODUCTION PROCESS 19 3.2.1 TOILING 21 3.2.3 THE FINAL PATTERN PRODUCTION 21 3.3 GARMENT ASSEMBLY 21 3.3.1THE FABRIC PREPARATION 21 3.3.2 LAYING OUT 21 3.3.3 CUTTING OUT 22 3.3.4 THE PRODUCTION PLAN 22 3.3.5 THE FINISHED GARMENT 24 3.3.6 THE PROJECTED DESIGN 25 CHAPTER FOUR: SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS. 4.0 INTRODUCTION 26 4.1 SUMMARY 26 4.2CONCLUSION 26 4.3 RECOMMENDATIONS 26 4.4 REFERENCES 28 APPENDIX 29 8 vii CHAPTER ONE INTRODUCTION 1.0 BACKGROUND OF THE STUDY A number of cultures have adopted the traditional western custom of the white wedding in which a bride wears a white wedding dress and veil. This tradition was popularized through the wedding of Queen Victoria. According to Encarta premium dictionary 2009, a wedding is a ceremony in which two people are united in marriage. Wedding traditions and customs vary greatly between cultures, ethnic groups, religions, countries and social classes. According to Serena Noir an eHow contributor, bridesmaids or maid of honor traditionally are unwed women and young married women or the bride’s closet friend or family member who wear matching dresses and stand next to the maid of honor during the wedding ceremony While in modern times a bridesmaid is expected to assist with anything the bride request or needs, apparently her duties were of a bride more serious if not at least supernatural, nature in earlier days. A custom once existed where maidens dressed similarly to the bride would accompany her as her protectors on the way to the grooms’ village. According to Dessy, the history of the bridesmaid varies across cultures, religions and time periods. In early Roman times, bridesmaids formed a Kind of bridal infantry as they accompanied the bride to the groom’s village. This "protective shield" of similarly outfitted bridesmaids was supposed to intervene if any wayward thugs or vengeful suitors tried to hurt the bride or steal her dowry. 9 However, the Western bridesmaid tradition seems to have originated from later Roman law, which required ten witnesses at a wedding in order to outsmart evil spirits believed to attend marriage ceremonies. The bridesmaids and ushers dressed in identical clothing to the bride and groom, so that the evil spirits would not know who was getting married. Even as late as 19th Century England, the belief that ill-wishers could administer curses and taint the wedding still existed. As stated in Victorian wedding photographs, for example, it can take quite a bit of inspection to Pick out the bride and groom from among the other members of the bridal party. This supposedly threw off bad luck that could be directed towards an easily identifiable bride and groom. These early customs continue to have an influence today. The expression "thrice a bridesmaid, never a bride" arose from the bridesmaid’s interception of and gradual infection by (over the Ceremony. And, although the bridal party no longer functions as a troop of foot soldiers, bridesmaid dresses are still commonly chosen in harmony with the look and feel of the wedding According to Nina Lawrence, publisher of “BRIDE’S magazine”, "Besides being an honoured member of the wedding party and Special guest at the reception, today’s bridesmaid is also designated as the bride’s special assistant. The payoff is that walk down the aisle, looking absolutely beautiful in a gown that is stylish, sophisticated, colorful and absolutely wearable." In 21st century America, bridesmaids are chosen to be caring helpers, thoughtful organizers and skillful liaisons. A bridesmaid’s gown is an essential part of a wedding event. It should match up the color schemes of the bride’s big event, while keeping classy. Fabric used bridesmaid’s dresses required exotic materials such as brocade, and satin. Exotic fabrics are, foreign fabrics, relating to or originating from another country which are distinguished their by its appearance, with raised patterns that are woven into the fabric 1.1 STATEMENT OF THE PROBLEM It is perceived that, only light weight fabrics can be use to produce beautiful apparel for bridesmaids like Chiffon, taffeta, which are found in most wedding ceremonies and form most of part of bridesmaids garment. The price of Exotic fabrics is considered to be expensive as compared to the normal fabrics use for bridesmaids. Research done by the researcher shows that the prices of exotic prices compared 10 to the normal fabrics use for bridesmaid is moderate. However, these materials are too dull to bring out the desired appearance of a bridal party. It is also perceived that, bridesmaid’s garment should be made from light weight fabrics since bridesmaids are supposed to be active during the wedding ceremony thus the idea of producing their garments in light weight fabrics in order for them to be active. The exotic fabrics are medium weight and some are light weight. The normal fabric such as kente is heavy. In this research, the use of exotic fabrics will be use to change the face and apparel for bridesmaid which has been identified by the researcher. 1.2 OBJECTIVES OF THE STUDY The main objective of the project is to make people appreciate and understand that, bridesmaid garments can be made from exotic fabrics and not only from the everyday fabrics that are use. The specific objectives of the study are to; Encourage the use of exotic fabrics for bridesmaid. The use of exotic fabric will give confidence to designers to take a course of action and give courage to those already using it. Promote the use of exotic fabrics for bridesmaids. It will enhance the growth and development of exotic fabrics in the case of bridesmaids dresses. Designers will improve upon their style lines and design more with the fabric in mind. Create and produce a garment for a bridesmaid using exotic fabrics. Come out with designs that are unique and produce from exotic fabrics which can also be produce using the normal fabrics that are use. To investigate and establish the importance of reducing the cost of bridesmaid garments. 1.3 SIGNIFICANCE OF THE STUDY 11 The outcome of the study is hoped to help encourage designers and promote the use of exotic fabrics for bridesmaid dresses. It may also educate fashion designers on how to be creative using exotic fabrics for bridesmaid. 1.4 LIMITATION OF THE STUDY The study constrained by financial difficulties, inadequate research materials and limited time. 1.5 DELIMITATION OF THE STUDY The scope of this project was limited to the use of exotic fabrics in producing apparel for a bridesmaid ORGANISATION OF CHAPTERS The study has been organized into four chapters. Chapter one consist of the background of the study, statement of the problem, objectives, purpose, limitation, delimitation, definition of terms and organization of chapters. Chapter two concentrates on the literature review of the study and chapter three consist of the various procedures used by the researcher to design and produce the garments. Chapter four consists of the summary, conclusions, recommendations based on the study. 12 CHAPTER TWO LITERATURE REVIEW 2.0 INTRODUCTION This chapter reviewed related literature to the topic under study. The main focus was on who a bridesmaid is, history of bridesmaids, functions and responsibilities of a bridesmaid, types of fabrics use for bridesmaids garment and brocade, features of brocade is. 2.1 HISTORY OF BRIDESMAID Wedding traditions and customs vary greatly between cultures, ethnic groups, religions, countries and social classes. A number of cultures have adopted the traditional western custom of the white wedding, in which a bride wears a white wedding, dress and veil. This tradition was popularized through the wedding of Queen Victoria. According to Serena Noir an eHow contributor from 1999_2011, bridesmaids or maid of honour traditionally are unwed women and young married women or the bride’s closet friend or family member who wear matching dresses and stand next to the maid of honor during the wedding ceremony. While in modern times a bridesmaid is expected to assist with anything the bride request or needs, apparently her duties were of a bride more serious if not at least supernatural, nature in earlier days. A custom once existed where maidens dressed similarly to the bride would accompany her as her protectors on the way to the grooms’ village. According to Dessy, the history of the bridesmaid varies across cultures, religions and time periods. In early Roman times, bridesmaids formed a Kind of bridal infantry as they accompanied the bride to the 13 groom’s village. This "protective shield" of similarly outfitted bridesmaids was supposed to intervene if any wayward thugs or vengeful suitors tried to hurt the bride or steal her dowry. However, the Western bridesmaid tradition seems to have originated from later Roman law, which required ten witnesses at a wedding in order to outsmart evil spirits believed to attend marriage ceremonies. The bridesmaids and ushers dressed in identical clothing to the bride and groom, so that the evil spirits wouldn't know who was getting married. Even as late as 19th Century England, the belief that ill-wishers could administer curses and taint the wedding still existed. As stated in Victorian wedding photographs, for example, it can take quite a bit of inspection to Pick out the bride and groom from among the other members of the bridal party. Plate 1 Bride with bridesmaid Source: www.@Avail &company.com, 2010. According to research most Ghanaian bridesmaid dresses are made from the everyday fabrics that are use. Research shows that Nigerians blend cultures by using this exotic fabrics that is brocade and it is been used for the bride and not the bridesmaid. Research from some designers in the Takoradi metropolis shows that out of the ten people who order for bridesmaid dresses only one uses the brocade fabric or none. This some of them explained as the cost of the fabric and people having the idea of using it for the brides other than the bridesmaid. Research on the net at Ghana bride.com also shows pictures of most recent brides and their bridesmaid of which all of them came in the everyday fabrics that is use. Some pictures were shown from Nigeria with the brides dress in brocade fabric and the bridesmaid in the everyday fabrics. Ghanaian bridesmaids in various poses and similar fabrics Plate 2 plate 3 14 plate 4 Source: www.ghana bride.com, 2011 2.1.1 FUNCTIONS OF A BRIDESMAID. The bridesmaid in contemporary times, assist the bride with anything the latter needs relating to her wedding day. Duties can span the range of booking appointments for the bride and groom, to mailing out invitations and reminders to attendees of the big day. Other roles are the bridesmaid being: Responsible for their own gowns Assisting in all pre-wedding festivities Helping to prepare for the reception Filling cups with confetti, rice, or rose petals to throw for the getaway Decorating the cars Essentially, the presence of the bridesmaid ensures that the bride has someone to lean on during one of the most important and potentially stressful events in her life. This is why there is usually more than one bridesmaid and why the women chosen to fill the position typically have a close bond with the bride. Although the bridal party no longer functions as a troop of foot soldiers, bridesmaid dresses are still commonly chosen in harmony with the look and feel of the wedding According to Nina Lawrence, publisher of” BRIDE’S magazine stated,” Besides being an honored member of the wedding party and Special guest at the reception, today’s bridesmaid is also designated as the bride’s special assistant. The payoff is that walk d 15 own the aisle, looking absolutely beautiful in a gown that is stylish, sophisticated, colorful and absolutely wearable." In 21st century America, Bridesmaids are chosen to be caring helpers, thoughtful organizers and skillful liaisons. A bridesmaid’s gown is an essential part of a wedding event. Plate 3ehow bridesmaid pictures Source: www.ehow.com, 1999_2011 2.2 TYPES OF FABRICS USE FOR BRIDESMAIDS GARMENT. ORGANZA: This kind of material is translucent, smooth and also shiny. Typically white in color, this fabric can often be positioned on the topmost layer of attire designed in organza. Organza is known as very a high priced fabric. SATIN: is yet another fabric found in generating bridesmaids gowns. Satin is one of the more popular fabrics for bridesmaids. Many women confuse satin with silk, but they are not the same. Satin is a fabric woven to have sheen on one side, and although it certainly can be made from silk, it can also be polyester or acetate. A silk/poly blend can be a good compromise between beauty and price. Satin is a stiffer fabric, and works very well for holding the shape for an A-line or fuller skirt. It lends itself well to bridesmaid attire for formal or evening weddings, and looks fantastic with sparkling crystal bridesmaid jewelry set. Interesting however given that satin, in fact, is not precisely a fabric kind. It is described having one smooth as well as shiny side 16 whereas the opposite side is actually dreary. The true fabrics meant to weave satin consist of polyester, poplin along with silk. SILK: Most of us feel that silk is definitely a soft material yet a raw and real silk in fact has a stiff and crispy in characteristic. Silk just gets to be soft if it is mixed with some other man made yarns. In that way, not just may silk come to be soft, in addition, it become stronger and may be washed in a machine. A silk that is pure is really high-priced and thus is not a fantastic selection of fabric for a flower girl’s apparel. Silk Gowns for flower girls are created with silk coupled with some other fabrics in order that the attire is much more comfy. TAFFETA AND TULLE: Several other fabrics can be taffeta along with tulle. In all fabrics, taffeta have the shiniest color. Crushed taffeta gowns have curves that makes light to echo on the fabric as well as makes the fabric as if they have two diverse colors when put below the rays of a light source. Tulle is easily the most widespread fabric employed to make gowns for the little girls. It is a great and filmy material positioned on top of the attire either as double layered or perhaps full of rose petals just like in petal apparel. Taffeta is an excellent choice for a prom or an evening gown. It comes in variety of colours and shades when looked at from different angles. It is a medium weight fabric, keeps its shape and easy to care. Don’t dry-clean before the occasion, as it loses its shape and the shine easier than the bridal satin but not as bad as a satin backed crepe. CHIFFON: is another fabric that is widely used for bridesmaid dresses. Like satin, it can be made from silk or a synthetic fabric like polyester. Chiffon is sheer and flowing, making it ideal for a summertime or beach wedding. Due to its sheerness, chiffon is always layered over another fabric. When softly gathered, it can be used to create glamorous Grecian goddess style dresses that are fairly forgiving for different shapes and sizes. Chiffon is sometimes hung on the bias (diagonally), and it becomes very slinky and form fitting, appropriate only for women with movie star figures. Due to its lightweight nature, chiffon is not considered to be a good choice for a winter wedding. It is also important to know that while silk chiffon breathes, poly chiffon does not, and can be hotter than blazes on a hot summer afternoon. CREPE: A mostly plain-weave light soft fabric of silk, cotton, wool, or another fiber, usually with a crinkled or puckered surface. It comes in different weights and commonly used for dresses 17 of all types. It is a perfect choice of fabric for a semi-formal special occasion. SATIN-BACKED CREPE: This fabric has a shiny smooth satin on one side and a matte crepe on the other. It drapes beautifully, but we find that the crepe side snags too easy. BRIDAL SATIN: It is very smooth, medium weight and shiny fabric mostly used on bridal gowns and bridesmaid dresses. It holds its shape and shine better than crepe or regular satin even after dry-cleaning. It may be used on its own or as a soft base layer under another sheer fabric. 2.3 EXOTIC Collins dictionary explains exotic as - being or from or characteristic of another place or part of the world, alien ,foreign, strange - relating to or originating in or characteristic of another place or part of the world; "foreign nations"; "a foreign accent"; "on business in a foreign city". According to word net, exotic means unusual and different, foreign but exciting. It is a positive word, and usually connotates beauty and wonder as much well as strangeness not native; mysterious. Word net also explains exotic as - strikingly strange or unusual; "an exotic hair style"; "protons, neutrons, electrons and all their exotic variants"; "the exotic landscape of a dead planet" strange, unusual - being definitely out of the ordinary and unexpected; slightly odd or even a bit weird; "a strange exaltation that was indefinable"; "a strange fantastical mind"; "what a strange sense of humor she has". Exotic can be define as a characteristics or something that is originating from a particular place or part of the world, alien, foreign and is been used by another country. 2.4BROCADE According to Bronwyn Harris 2003 brocade is a specific style of fabric centuries old in origination but now known for being created using French looming technology. It is distinguished by its appearance, with raised patterns that are woven into the fabric itself. Today brocade fabrics can be found in many stores, and manufacturers produce a variety of products using the material. Brocade fabric is one of the several shuttle-woven fabrics that intricate patterns that often include a selection of flowers, plants and other natural images. Usually woven with a selection of various types of silk that are accented with metallic threads as a means of 18 adding texture and visual interest, brocade is used in a number of different applications around the home, as well as a desirable element in formal wear and stage costuming. Brocade fabric is one of the several shuttle-woven fabrics that intricate patterns that often include a selection of flowers, plants and other natural images. Usually woven with a selection of various types of silk that are accented with metallic threads as a means of adding texture and visual interest, brocade is used in a number of different applications around the home, as well as a desirable element in formal wear and stage costuming. Brocade is often created with the use of a draw loom. Employing both a standard weft and a supplemental weft during the weaving process develops the detail of the pattern. The two-fold approach gives the finished product an appearance that is not unlike a piece of fabric that has been embroidered. The double weft technique also often provides a level of stiffness to the design of the brocade, and also helps to make the material sturdy enough for use in applications that require a heavier fabric. Brocade for many years was a favorite choice of fabric for upholstering formal pieces of furniture. While the practice declined after the middle of the 20th century, brocade is still considered an ideal option when restoring antique sofas, chairs, settees, and chaise lounges. Along with use as upholstery, brocade has remained a desirable textile for window treatments. Draperies created from brocade are understood to provide a hint of formality to living space, and are often employed in formal living rooms and as part of the curtains for a canopy bed. Wall hangings that are constructed with silk brocade are often used to add color and visual interest to a room or hallway. Brocade is also a popular option as material for wedding dresses, especially designs that wish to recapture the luxury and opulence of the Victorian era. Brocade may also be used to create cummerbunds for tuxedos. In the entertainment world, brocade continues to be a desirable option for costuming for stage shows, such as plays or concerts. Essentially, brocade is an ideal fabric option when clothing that is both elegant and sophisticated is desired, and is meant to focus attention on the wearer. 2.4.1 FEATURES OF BROCADE FABRICS Brocade is typically made from silk, although today brocade fabrics are also made from cotton and rayon, depending on the manufacturer. Rayon and silk are used most often for the 19 supplementary warp, which is almost always in gold or silver to help it stand out more from the background. A price for brocade range widely depending on the fabric used and how intricately designed it is. 2.4.2 MOTIFS OF BROCADE There are several types of patterns used predominantly in brocade. The most common are floral patterns, but scrollwork, landscapes and figures are also created. These patterns are typically Chinese in origin, and may be representations of figures, scenes and seals from Chinese myth or history. 2.4.3 USES OF BROCADE Brocade is used in many types of ceremonial apparel, including vestments for religious rites and state robes for some countries. The fabric is also used in evening wear, especially Asian-styled dresses, suits and shawls. It is also often used to make upholstery or draperies for decoration and furniture design. 2.5 SATIN FABRICS Satin is a luxurious fabric that has been prized for centuries. Over the years, it has been used for beautiful clothing, bedding, wedding gowns, ballet shoes, lingerie, and even the lining for athletic uniforms. The history of satin stretches from the Far East to the modern western world. Satin is a type of glossy fabric first made from silk in China. Exportation during the middle Ages introduced satin to Italy in the 12th century. By the 14th century, satin garments were greatly appreciated throughout Europe because of their high gloss, and were often the choice of royalty for both their feel and sheen. Traditional satin has a glossy and a dull side, which is important to remember when sewing garments. Those who sew need to be sure to assemble garments on the appropriate side in order to showcase the gloss and shine. While satin was once made exclusively of silk, satin is now made with polyester, acetate, nylon, and rayon. These other fabrics provide a less expensive means to achieve the glossy finish provided by satin. Shine from satin is derived through its weave. Some weft or weave yarns are brought to the surface in a process called floating, which allows some of the yarn to reflect light, thus producing the shine and gloss. In some cases, it is possible to achieve this effect on both sides of a garment, producing doublefaced satin. This material is often highly desirable, since it is soft against the skin, but will tend 20 to cost more, particularly if made with silk. There are several main types of satin, which can vary in thickness, flexibility, and weight. Many materials are also backed with satin. Wool crepe and velvet often have a satin backing or a satin lining, which eliminates having to wear slips or camisoles. Some of the common satin types are duchess satin, satin faconne, slipper satin, and delustered satin. Duchess satin is used primarily in dress fabrics, and is a common choice for wedding dresses. It is a fairly stiff satin with a heavy weight and is glossy on one side only. Satin faconne or satin jacquard is a type of satin with patterns woven through it. These could be stripes, paisley, or virtually any design. Satin jacquard comes in a variety of weights and qualities, but tends toward being a looser more flexible fabric than duchess satin. Delustered satin, also called peau de soie (skin of silk), is a less shiny, lightweight material. Delustered satin is usually finished on both sides, making it double-faced. One can also note fine-grained threads in this type of satin. A few other forms of satin are sateen and satinet. Sateen is a glossy cloth made from cotton or rayon, while satinet is a very thin form of satin, usually made from silk threads. 21 CHAPTER 3 METHODOLOGY 3.0 INTRODUCTION This chapter consist of the methods, processes and techniques that were used in making up the bridesmaid dress, a dress worn by a lady accompanying a bride to the alter during a wedding ceremony. The researcher used woven floral Chinese brocade fabric and plain bridal satin in making up the dress. The processes include designing, pattern production and garment assembling. 3.1 THE DESIGN PROCESS. The processes or the stages that the designer goes through before arriving at the final designs are as follows: Market research This research talks about a particular customer which the designer wants to design for. The age ranges the, colour, status, and activities are considered before designing for the customers. With this research, the focus was on a young spinster who has just entered the job market. The Customer Profile After the researcher conducts market research to know the demographics of the customer, he then decides on the type of customer to design for and all other things associated with the customer that is favorite meal, role model among others. This board contains a customer with big ambition in life. The board contains some information’s which help the designer to design to suit the customer and occasion. The information’s includes the name, age occupation, status, hobby of the customer. Below is the customer profile of the model. 22 Fig 1 Customer Profile Source: Field Data, 2011 The Theme Board “floral” The Encarta English dictionary defines mood as expressing a particular attitude or somebody’s state of mind. After the customer profile the next stage is to get pictures which will be inspiration from which design features will be derived from for designing. The mood board was done by getting various pictures of under the sea that is coral reeves and using coral draw to arrange them nicely. These pictures were use as inspiration, with the theme “floral”. Ideas were developed from the motifs on the mood board to design the dresses. Figure 2: theme board (floral) 23 Source: Field Data, 2011 The Style Board The next stage in the designing process is to use features derived from the mood board to design several garments from which the best four will be selected. Style is defined by Encarta dictionary as a way in which clothes or hair are cut or shape, Or to give something a particular shape or design. The style board is the third stage in the designing process. Motifs that were developed were selected and used to develop various styles. In the styling process the researcher created several styles of which four were selected for the final work. The style board shows front views below. Figure 3 the style board Source: Field Data, 2011 The Design Board World book encyclopedia defines design as the intended arrangement of material to produce certain result or effect the next stage is to represent the four designs which is the design board. The four designs that were shown on the style board were drawn on the chip board showing the front and back views of them in their respective colours. 24 Figure 4 The Design Board Source: field data, 2011 Figure 5 The Projected design 25 Source: Field Data, 2011 3.1.7 The Design brief The dress has been designed using an exotic fabric. The design has fullness and three yards and half yard of fabric was use. The busty dress is of the knee length. The main garment was made with a printed floral Chinese brocade fabric and a plain bridal satin for pleats on the across chest, the lower waist and as apron on the dress. The dress was a three panel dress; the back of the dress has a 14inches of zipper opening. 3.1.7a The specification board (illustration board) The illustration board shows the flat drawing of the design both front and back view of the final design. It shows the specification drawing of the pattern pieces which was drafted through the adaptation of the basic block. The one-tenth scale was used for the adaptation. Figure 6 the specification board Source: Field Data, 2011 26 The Fabric Board The fabric board contains all the fabrics used in making the garment. It also has the trimmings used in making the garment. The fabric board contains both printed and plain. The woven fabric was use for two of the dresses and the plain ones for the other two. Figure 7 Fabric Hanger Source: Field Data, 2011 3.2 THE PATTERN PRODUCTION PROCESS The body measurements were used in the construction of the patterns. Drafting gives the flat pattern which will be used in cutting out the fabric. The style is first drafted on brown paper using the basic block for the adaptation of the final pattern .All pattern information’s and instructions were indicated on the final pattern to guide, laying out, cutting out and marking up. The body measurement was used in drafting the basic block before the adaptation was done. 27 Below are the measurements used in the construction of the pattern; Bust……………………………………………………77.5cm Waist……………………………………....…………….64cm Across back……………………………….....…………..33cm Across chests……………………………….....…………31cm Nape to waist…………………………………....….........33cm Shoulder to natural waist……………………...…………43cm Dress length………………………………….…………117cm Arm scye………………………………………...……….21cm Figure 8 The Sample Pattern Source: Field Data, 2011 28 3.2.3Toiling Toiling is a means used to obtain a sample of the desired design. It is use for the first fitting on the model which helps the designer to correct faults before cutting out the real fashion fabric. How Toiling Is Done Firstly, the preparation of the toiling fabric (calico). The final pattern obtained is place on the calico. The pattern is cut out according to the number of pattern pieces made. The cut out was sewn with some details. The sample was then fitted on the model to see the effect. Corrections were done based on the pattern. 3.2.4 The Final Pattern production. After all corrections were made on the sample pattern, they were retraced with the detail information and instructions. The corrected pattern was used to cut out the fashion fabric. The pattern pieces contained the detailed information and instruction that were clearly marked and was used to cut out. 3.3 GARMENT ASSEMBLY 3.3.2 Fabric Preparation Before the fabric was used it has to be prepared to detect faults before laying out. Stains, fluffy surface, holes were the fabric flaws which were detected and corrected before the fabric could be use. The fabric was then pressed to remove creases. 29 3.3.3 Laying Out Of Fabric After the fabric was press, the pattern pieces were also iron to remove creases as well. Firstly, the fabric was laid on flat working table with right sides of the fabric facing. The fabric was laid with the grain placed correctly and secured to prevent slipping out of position. The pattern pieces were arranged on the fabric. The pattern pieces were pinned to the fabric carefully and within the seam allowances. 3.3.4 Cutting Out Of Fabric Cutting was done after the patterns were pinned unto the fabric. The cutting was done using sharp fabric shears. While cutting out the fabric one hand is place down on the fabric whiles the other one was used to cut. Long strokes were used in the direction of the fabric grain and short strokes for curves. The big patterns were cut first followed by the small ones before the markings are transferred unto the fabric. Figure 9 the cutting out of fabric Source: Field Data, 2011 30 3.3.5 The Production Plan 1. Press fusible on fabrics that needed to be fused. 2. Join front and back panels of the bodice separately together, press the seams open and snip the curve part of the front bodice in order to get the cap well. 3. Join the panel of the front and back skirt and press the seams open. 4. Prepare pleats 1inch width which will be used on the bust of the dress and press fusible to the back of the fusible to make it stand firm. 5. Stitch pleats unto the front bodice and then join the front and back bodice together .press side seams open. 6. Fix the zipper to the back side. 8. Press all seams open and neaten them. 9. Join the front and back skirt together and press the sides seams open. 10. Join the blouse to the skirt to get the dress using the round method in joining. 11. Stitch interfacings to the lining and stitch it to the bodice to finish the top of the dress 12. Press raw edges open and neaten them. 13. Over lock the hem with the close over lock stitch and press to make it flat. 14. Prepare pleats 1inch width using the 3/4measurement of below the natural waist measurement which will be use as apron on the dress. 15. Over lock the edges with close over lock stitch, prepare band and atta 31 Figure 10 Production plan Source: Field Data, 2011 3.3.6a The Finished Garment The garment was pressed at the wrong side of the fabric with the aid of après piece. Steam, heat and pressure were used in during production. The right side of the garment was pressed with steam press and a press piece together with all garment details. The final press was given to the garment and enhanced with trimmings and accessories. 32 3.3.6b Projected Design (fashion show) The projected design which was part of the four designs displayed at the fashion show. Figure 10 The Front View Figure 11 The Back View Source: Field Data, 2011 Source: Field Data, 33 CHAPTER FOUR SUMMARY, CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATIONS 4.0 INTRODUCTION This chapter concludes the study. It includes the summary of the major issues, recommendations and bibliography of reference work respectively. 4.1 SUMMARY The main aim of this project is to make people appreciate and understand that, bridesmaid garments can be made from exotic fabrics and not only from the everyday fabrics that are use. To create and produce a garment for a bridesmaid using exotic fabrics effectively which will encourage and promote the use of exotic fabric. The research work has been designed to cover the various areas which include bridesmaid dresses, origin of bridesmaid dresses. Foreign Chinese brocade fabric was used in designing the dress. The bridesmaid who was supposed to protect the bride has now changed because is not only suppose to protect but also add beauty to beauty to the wedding as a whole. The researcher used satin and brocade which gave a new face to bridesmaid dresses to sew the garment. The researcher took the theme floral from pictures under the sea of which features were derived from to design the garment. Taking the theme into consideration the researcher used motifs derived to develop beautiful designs for the bridesmaid. 4.2 CONCLUSION The study results indicate that Chinese brocade which is an exotic fabric can be use effectively for bridesmaid garment as well as the others which is foreign from another country. The use of 34 right tools and equipment can also greatly enhance the make of the garment. The appropriate use of pattern should be therefore being encouraged. 4.3 RECOMMENDATIONS Having completed the research on the topic the use of exotic fabric in the production of apparel for a bridesmaid the following recommendations are made. The right tools and equipment must be use to produce the right garment to meet the international standard mark. The study of designing skills should be made compulsory in formal and informal training institutions. Students should be free to make suggestions about experimenting and using exotic fabrics in producing to meet the standard of the international market. 35 REFERENCE 1. Aldrich, (1997), Metric Pattern Cutting Third Edition, London, Blackwell science Ltd, Oxford. 2. Oxford (2004) oxford learners Dictionary USA. 3. Cocklin, (2006), Garment Technology for Fashion Designers, Blackwell science Ltd. 4. Oxford Advance Learners Dictionary, (1995). First Edition, OxfordGroup.UK. , Farlex clip. 5. The American Heritage 2000 Dictionary, Fourth Edition copyright Houghton Mifflin Company. 6. Susan Sosbe, 1999, About Bridesmaid Dresses. Retrieved on the 10th of June, 2011 from http://www. ehow.com 7. Malcolm Tatum, 2003, Definition of Brocade Fabric. Retrieved on 12th of June 2011 from http://www.ehow .com 8. Meaning of exotic. On the 15th of June 2011 Retrieved from http://wiki.answers .com 36 APPENDIX Fashion show 37