section iv differential feed 33

SECTION IV
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Differential feed allows you to sew many different types of fabrics eliminating
puckering on lightweight woven fabrics and stretching on knits.
When working on a serger without the differential feed feature, puckering and
waving are unavoidable on some fabrics. Superlock owners need only to adjust
the differential feed for professional seams and decorative applications as explained
below.
Your Superlock has two sets of feed teeth. Each set of feed teeth has an individual
feed mechanism which enables the feeding of fabric at a different ratio, therefore
feeding more or less fabric into the back teeth giving the desired result. The differential
feed is adjusted by the dial located on the right side of your Superlock behind the stitch
length dial. It has been labeled for your convenience.
Differentiai feed
dial
33
DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Positive Differential Feed (1.5 2)
The front feed teeth make a longer stroke than the rear feed teeth. This
accumulates fabric under the presser foot to offset the wavering of the fabric.
To accomplish this, set your differential feed control from 1.5 to 2.0.
Positive differential feed is also used for gathering and easing.
-
Minimal Differential Feed (0.7 1)
The front feed teeth make a shorter stroke than the rear feed teeth. This actually
holds your fabric taut under the presser foot to offset puckering. The differential
feed control dial setting for this procedure is 0.7 to 1.
-
Normal Differential Feed (1)
The normal differential feed setting is 1. At the 1 setting both the front and the
rear feed teeth are feeding at the same rate.
)
34
SERGING LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS
Some lightweight fabrics may pucker when serged. This can be prevented by using
0.7 setting of differential feed.
Machine Setting
Stitch length
Stitch width
Differential Feed
2.5 3.5
6
1 then change to 0.7
-
-
Fabric
Silky woven
Tension Setting
Normal
(LN)-4(RN)-4(UL) 4(LL) 4
-
-
-
Serge
•Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to the normal setting of 1. Lower the
presser foot
•Fold fabric in half and serge a seam. There may be slight puckering.
•Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to 0.7 then lower the presser foot.
•Serge another seam opposite the previous one. This seam should be
pucker4ree thanks to your differential feed.
NOTE: BE SURE TO RAISE YOUR PRESSER FOOT BEFORE CHANGING THE DIF
FERENTIAL FEED TO ALLOW THE FEED TEETH TO FREELY MOVE TO THE NEW
POSITION
35
SERGING STRETCH
OR BULKY KNITS
When serging stretch knits such as ribbing or bulky sweater knits, the seams tend to
be wavy. This can be corrected by using the 1.5 2 differential feed settings.
-
Machine Setting
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Differential feed
3-4
6-7
1 then change to 2
-
Fabric
Rib knit
Tension Setting
Normal
(LN)-4(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
Serge
•Raise the presser foot and set the differential feed to the 1 setting then lower presser
foot.
•Fold fabric in half and serge a seam on one edge going with the stretch of the
fabric. Your seam should look stretched and wavy.
•Raise the presser foot and change your differential feed to 2.0. Lower presser foot and
serge the opposite edge of your sample. This seam will be flat.
Note: You have a wide range of settings from the 1 setting to the 2 setting
which enables you to set your differential feed anywhere in between to accom
modate a wide range of fabric types.
36
GATHERING
You will never gather again with cording that breaks and bobbins that run out of
thread. Save time by gathering ruffles and skirts to bodices by using differential
feed on your Superlock.
Machine Setting
Stitch Length
Stitch width
Differential feed
5
6
2
Fabric
Lightweight woven
Tension Setting
(LN) -8to9(RN) -8to9(UL) -4(LL) -4Serge
•Insert fabric under the presser foot and serge one inch.
•Place the forefinger of your left hand behind the foot and apply a small
amount of pressure to the fabric as it emerges from under the presser foot.
•After the length of fabric has been gathered, STOP, raise the presser foot
and remove your fabric. Leave about a 10-12” thread tail as you may wish to
adjust your gathers.
•Be sure to put needle tensions back on 4 to prevent breaking needle
threads if chaining off edge of fabric.
Variation: Try using this technique on lace for lace rosettes.
37
SECTION V
3-THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES
Use a three thread seam for maximum stretch on knits or for an edge finish for seams
If you prefer to finish first, then seam with a straight stitch and press open. The three
thread edge finish prevents ravelling of your fabrics allowing your seams to lay flat.
For a narrow three thread serge, clip the left needle thread just before the needle eye;
for a wider three thread clip the right needle thread.
38
THREE THREAD SEAM OR EDGE FINISH
Three thread Superlock techniques allow a single seam and lighter edge finish for
medium to light weight fabrics. Using your left needle will give you a wider seam for
medium weight fabrics. Using the right needle will give you a narrow stitch width seam
for light weight fabrics.
Machine Setting
a
Stitch Length
2.5 3
Stitch Width
6
Use Left Needle Only
-
Fabric
Chino
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) 4
(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
-
-
Serge
•Clip thread above right needle eye.
-Remove right needle
-Fold fabric in half.
-Serge a wide three thread seam.
Narrow stitch width seam
-Remove left needle and place in needle
cushion (ilIus.). Rethread right needle.
-Sew a narrow seam along opposite edge
of fabric.
4
a
a
39
ROLLED EDGE
This technique is normally used on soft fabrics, such as crepe de chine, georgette,
silk and other light weight materials. This technique cuts, folds and overlocks the edge
to give a fine 1.5mm rolled edge.
Machine Setting
Thread
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Stitch Finger
Regular or Wooly nylon
R
6
Removed
Fabric
Lightweight woven
Tension Settings
Remove the left needle.
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
F
Rolled Edge
The fabric is rolled by adjusting.
The thread tension and is overlocked with
upper looper thread.
-
Setting Up your Superlock for Rolled Edge
•Remove the left needle and place in needle cushion (you will sew only with the right
needle).
•Open left side cover and slide stitch finger out as illustrated. Place it in the holder
provided just inside the front cover (illustrations 1 and 2).
•Your Superlock is equipped with an Automatic Tension System specifically for the
three-thread rolled edge. Simply set the right needle, upper looper, and lower looper
tensions at 4 and select R’ on the stitch length dial.
•At the beginning of sewing, gently pull the end of the thread chain.
•Always test the stitch on a scrap piece of fabric first.
-
-
Hint: If edge puckers, set differential feed to 0.7.
40
____
PICOT EDGE
For a picot or shell edge, turn the stitch length dial to P. This edging is perfect for chiffon
,
silk or other light weight fabrics.
Mach me Setting
Thread:
Stitch Length:
Stitch Width:
Stitch Finger:
Differential Feed:
Regular thread, rayon thread or Wooly nylon.
P
6
Removed
0.7
Fabric: Light Weight woven
Tension Settings
Remove the left needle
(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4Setting up your Superlock for a Picot or Shell edge
•Set stitch length dial on P.
•Serge picot edge along single edge of lightweight woven fabric.
•The longer stitch length will create a picot or shell edge.
NOTE: If serging rolled edge and longer stitch length is desired for less of a satin
edge,
turn stitch length dial toward P. The edge will still roll, making this ideal for heavie
r
decorative threads.
For a decorative effect try using novelty threads in the rolled edge or picot
edge.
This includes Wooly nylon, metallic, silk, Sulky@ rayon, perle cotton, etc. The
upper
looper tension may need to be adjusted in the 3-7 range depending on fabric
type and
the decorative thread used. Remember to experiment first for the proper
tension setting
and stitch length (move stitch length dial toward P for a longer rolled stitch
length).
41
SPAGHETTI STRAPS
Use this technique for narrow spaghetti straps, braided or twisted belts, belt loops, etc.
Machine Setting
Stitch Length:
Stitch Width:
Stitch Finger:
R
6
Removed
Fabric
Lightweight woven or tricot
Tension Settings
Normal
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4-
Serge with a rotted edge:
•Cut the spaghetti strap one inch wider than the desired width.
•Serge a thread chain as long as the desired strap plus 5 inches.
•Fold the spaghetti strap around the thread chain as if the chain
were a hot dog in a bun.
•Serge down the open side seam trimming away 1/2” of fabric.
•Gently pull the chain to turn the strap inside out.
42
SLIT OR PLACKET
This technique can be used when seeing the plackets for the neckline of a blouse
or for a cuff placket and is sewn just like the inside corner technique except using
rolled edge.
Machine Settings
Stitch Length:
R
Stitch Width:
6
Stitch Finger:
Removed
Fabric
Medium weight woven
Tension Settings
Left needle removed
Normal
Serge
Cut a slit 3/4 of the way into our fabric. Open the slit so the inside edges of the
slit
form a straight line. There will be two small tucks at the top of the slit when it is
pulled
open. Using the inside edge of the cutter as a guide, roll the edge.
_1/
43
ROLLED EDGE
“POKIES”
When serging a roiled edge over lace or stiff fabric (linen and some cottons), the
fabric threads may poke between the stitches on the rolled edge. Try roiHng over
a
water soluble stabHizer such as Solv® for a smoother finish. Cut the transparent
stabilizer into strips with your rotary cutter and mat.
Machine Setting
REMOVE THE LEFT NEEDLE
Thread
Regular or decorative in the upper looper
Stitch Length
R
Stitch Width
6
Stitch Finger
Removed
Fabric
Medium weight woven (linen)
Tension Settings
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
Serge
•Position Solv on top of the fabric to be rolled.
•Roll the SoIv and fabric together through the Superlock, trimming away 1I4 while
serging.
•Tear away excess Soiv® from rolled edge. Spray with water to remove any remaining
SoIv.
HINT: Another good way to handle pokies on some fabrics is to turn under one
edge
112N and roil along the folded edge, being careful
not to cut the fold of fabric. Trim away
excess fabric with scissors when completed.
44
NARROW EDGE
A narrow edge is formed by overlocking the fabric with a finish about 2mm in width.
This technique is used on lightweight or soft fabrics.
Machine Setting
REMOVE THE LEFT NEEDLE.
Thread
Regular
Stitch length
1-3
Stitch Width
6
Stitch Finger
Removed
Fabric
Silky woven
Tension Settings
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
Serge
•This is a balanced stitch serged without the stitch finger.
•lf using different types of thread, be sure and test on a scrap of fabric to adjust the
tension and stitch length before sewing actual garment.
45
SAFELOCK
This technique is excellent for reversible garments because it produces finishe
d
seamson both sides. It is also excellent for seams where durability is needed
. The
straight stitching to complete this technique does require a conventional sewing
machine.
Machine Setting
Stitch Length 3 5
Stitch Width
6
Stitch Finger Inserted
Use Left Needle Only
-
Fabric
Sweatshirt Fleece
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN)-4(UL)-4(LL)-4-
Serge
•Clip right needle thread above the needle eye and remove right needle.
Reinsert left
needle and re-thread.
•Fold fabric in half, wrong sides together.
•Serge the seam.
•Press the seam to one side and stitch flat using a straight stitch on your
conventional sewing machine.
•Try using decorative threads in your upper and/or lower looper for a
decorative look on
one or both sides.
46
DECORATIVE EDGES
Your Superlock has unlimited decorative possibilities using different threads for
binding, edging, tucks, etc. Experiment with regular sewing threads, embroidery
floss, metallic, topstitching threads, perle cotton, fine yarns, rayon threads, etc. Use
decorative threads in the upper looper and/or lower looper.
Machine Setting
Stitch Length 3 5
Stitch Width
6
Stitch Finger Inserted
Thread
Regular thread lower looper
Decorative thread upper looper
-
-
-
Fabric
Denim
Tension Settings
(LN)-4(UL) 1 to 3
(LL) 4
-
-
-
-
When working with heavier decorative threads, you may find you need to loosen
your upper looper tension, and when working with finer decorative threads you may
need to tighten the upper looper. The general rule is: the heavier the thread the
lower
the tension.
Serge
•Thread decorative or specialty thread through upper looper.
•Stitch around denim until the stitches meet.
•Press the tension release lever down, remove your sample and
use one of the finishing techniques described earlier.
Note: When using a mixture of threads such as regular thread combined with
heavy
decorative threads, it may be necessary to make tension adjustments. Be sure
to test
your stitch on a scrap piece of the same material before sewing your garment.
4
47
DECORATIVE BRAIDS
Decorative braid can be made by stitching over a narrow braid, cording or ribbon as
wide as the three thread overlock desired. Use three of the same color threads, or mix
them for variety. Embroidery floss, candlewicking, and topstitching thread will give
you a full-looking braid.
Machine Setting
Thread
Decorative in upper looper
Stitch Length 3 5
Stitch Finger In Place
-
Fabric
Braid, ribbon or cord (middy braid works well).
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN)-4(UL)-2to4(LL)-2to4The upper and lower looper tensions may be slightly lower to accommodate
the decorative thread.
Serge
Use one or two needles as desired. If you use both needles, the right needle will
stitch through the braid or ribbon and keep it from shifting. Under most circumstances
use the left needle only.
“Choose your cord, braid or ribbon. Try contrasting colors for variety.
•Use your cutter or the edge of the needle plate as a guide. Do not cut braid, cord
or ribbon.
•Feed braid under the presser foot and stitch. You will encase the braid in
the stitching.
•Finished braid can be sewn to other garments as a single braid, or entwined
with other braids to create a decorative trim.
48
FLATLOCK/LADDER STITCHING & SEAMS
This technique uses three threads to serge a ladder or trellis stitch used for
topstitching or as a decorative stitch on one side of the fabric and a flatlock
seam on the other. It can be used on knits, tricot, even fake furs and soft
leather to serge decoratively and eliminate bulk.
Machine Setting
Thread
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Stitch Finger
Regular or decorative
3 to 5
6-7
Normal
Fabric
Sweatshirt fleece or denim
Tension Settings
(LN)-O- 1(UL) 3 4 (Heavier thread
(LL) -6-8-
-
-
=
lower tension)
Serge
•lf the ladder stitch is desired on the right side of the garment, fold fabric
in half with right sides together. If flatlock stitch is desired, on the right
side fold fabric in half with wrong sides together.
•Place fold along right edge of needle plate, near the cutter. Do not cut the fabric.
•Sew the seam together. For best results allow stitches to 9oop” slightly off the
edge.
•PuIl fabric apart and press. Adjust your tensions as needed.
•Try a rayon thread in the needle for a decorative ladder stitch or on your upper
looper for the flatlock.
Hint: Use the Superlock optional accessory blind hem foot to guide you when
stitching for perfect results. Adjust the guide, the thread loops slightly off the
edge for the smoothest flatlock.
49
FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE
LACE APPLICATION
Using the flatlock, apply lace to lingerie the same way as found on ready-made.
For wider seams use left needle only, and for narrower seams used on very fine
fabrics and laces, use right needle only.
Machine Setting
Stitch Length
Stitch Width
Stitch Finger
3-5
6
In place
Fabric
Tricot and lace
Tension Setting
(LN)or(RN)-O- 1(UL) 2 to 4
(LL) 6 8
-
-
-
-
-
Serge
•Place lace on top of tricot near edge with right sides together.
•Align lace edge with right side of needle plate near cutter.
•Start to sew. Keep lace to inside of cutter. Trim fabric if desired.
Do not cut lace.
•Raise presser foot. Press tension release down and remove sample.
•PulI lace and tricot apart to reveal ladder seam
3
50
FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE
LINGERIE ELASTIC APPLICATION
Machine Setting
Stitch Length 4 to 5
Stitch Finger Normal
Fabric
Tricot and 3/8N lingerie elastic
Tension Settings
(LN) 0 to 1
(UL)-2to4(LL) 6 to 8
-
-
-
-
Serge
•With right sides together, lay edge of elastic (picot edge to the left)
along raw edge of sample.
•Using inside edge of cutter as a guide, stitch, stretching elastic as you
sew.
•Pull tricot and elastic apart to reveal ladder stitching.
Hint:
The stitch length is increased because the less stitches sewn into elastic
, the more
elasticity it will have and the elastic will return to its normal size.
For a really easy elastic application, use the Superlock optional access
ory
elastic foot (part #141 000302) as described in the optional accessory
section of this
workbook.
51
FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE
FRINGE
A fast and easy way to finish a wool scarf or tartan scarf.
Machine Setting
Thread
Regular or decorative
Stitch Length 3 to 5mm
Fabric
Hopsacking (loose weave)
Tension Settings
(LN or RN) 0 to 1
(UL) 2 to 4
(LL) 6 to 8
-
-
-
-
-
-
Serge
‘Remove right needle.
‘Use a water soluble pen to mark the edge or hemline. Cut away
excess fabric. Try to cut on the straight of grain for easy, even fringing.
•Mark an additional line up 1 112H from the edge or hemline. Fold along
this line and press lightly, wrong sides together.
‘Insert fabric under the presser foot, and serge along the fold.
•Work thread tail into stitching.
•Pull fabric open. Starting at the raw edge, pull out all the horizontal
threads up to the serged line.
52
ROLLED EDGE
NOVELTY THREADS
For a decorative effect try using novelty threads in the rolled edge. This includes
Wooly nylon, metallic, silk, Sulk, perle cotton, 2-ply baby yarn, etc. Remember to
experiment first for the proper tension setting and stitch length.
Machine Setting
Thread
Decorative
Stitch length
R
Stitch finger
Removed
Remove left needle.
Wooly Nylon (Use in the upper looper.)
Hint: Use a needle threader to thread the wooly nylon through the eye of the looper.
Tension Settings
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
Metallic Thread (Use in the upper looper.)
Tension Settings
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
Silk or Sulky® (Use in upper looper.)
Tension Settings
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
Hint: You may wish to use a thread net to prevent the thread from slipping
off the spool.
53
ROLLED EDGE
FISHLINE RUFFLES OR WIRE EDGES
To enhance any garment with ruffles, try rolling fishline into the rolled edge.
The fishline causes the ruffle to stand up and curve gracefully away from the
garment. Depending on the weight of the fabric you can use 14 lb to 60 lb
weight of fishline. By adding wire to an edge, you can gain a lot of body and
flexibility to an edge. (22 to 28 gauge floral wire works well.) It is great for creating
bows and other craft projects.
Machine Setting
Removed the left needle.
Thread
Regular or decorative
Stitch length
R
Stitch finger
Removed
Fabric
For fishline: silky woven & fishline
For wire: medium weight woven & wire
Tension Settings
(RN)-4(UL)-4(LL) 4
-
-
Serge
•Stitch a 2” thread tail. Unroll fishline or wire and place it to the back of your Superlock
•Snap the Specialty Technique Guide to the telescoping thread guide. The Specialty
Technique Guide is found in the accessory bag.
•Raise the presser foot. Put the fishline or wire through the Specialty Technique Guide,
through the guide on the front, through the front hole in the foot, and bring to the back of
the machine.
•Stitch 2” to 3” to catch the fishline or wire in the thread tail.
Be careful not to cut the fishline or wire.
•lnsert the fabric under the presser foot and lower needle into the fabric. Lower the
presser foot and hold on to the tail with your left hand from behind the machine.
•Guide the fabric and fish line or wire with your right hand.
•After 2” to 3” release left hand from the thread chain.
•Roll and cover an additional 12”. Raise presser foot and press down on your tension
release to remove project. Clip thread and fishline or wire.
•On a garment, pull along the fishline or wire and fabric every yard or so before cutting
fishline. Sometimes additional fishline and wire will be taken into the rolled edge.
54
NARROW OR SHELL EDGE
This technique is normaNy used on soft fabrics such as crepe de chine, silk, light
weight polyesters, etc. A narrow edge is formed by overlocking the fabric edge with
a finish about 2mm in width. A shell edge can be done on scarf-like fabrics by
tightening the lower looper tension. In lieu of the nature of these hems, they are
unsuitable for use on hard or heavy fabrics.
Machine Setting
Remove the left needle.
Thread
Regular or Wooly nylon
Stitch Length
Narrow edge 1-3
Shell edge 3-5
Stitch Finger
Removed
Fabric
Silky woven
Tension Settings
(RN)-4(UL)-2to4(LL) -3 to 4
(LL) 6 to 8
-
-
-
(for narrow edge)
(for shell edge)
Serge
•Thread tensions for these types of edges will vary with the type of fabric and thread
you use. Testing on a scrap piece of fabric is recommended for correct tension and
stitch length before sewing actual garment.
•Sewing the shell hem on scarf-like fabric requires tightening the lower looper to
make the shell or scalloped effect.
•Finish corners as discussed in Section Ill.
55
SECTION VI
2 THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES
Two thread Superlock techniques give you many additional sewing options, such as
flatlock, a light overcast and rolled edge.
Threading for 2-Thread Sewing
1. Thread either the left or right needle only.
Right needle for a narrow overcast flatlock
and rolled edge: left needle for wide
overcast or flatlock. Store the removed
needle in the needle sponge.
2. Thread lower looper only.
Tc r
d vrock
-
3. Move upper looper to its lowest position.
—
/
4. Remove 2thread converter from storage
sponge inside front door (fig. 1).
/2
F1g2
5. Slide converter lever on upper looper to the
right and put the prong on the end into the
upper looper eye (fig. 2 & 3).
F1g3
I
I
2
-
Note: To remove the converter lever after
2 thread sewing, pull the prong out of the eye
and slide to the left and return to the storage
sponge (fig. 4).
1
Fg4
56
TWO THREAD OVERCAST
The two thread overcast serges a lightweight finish when less thread
build up is desired.
Machine Setting
Stitch length
3.5 4
Stitch width
6
Needle
Left (Use right needle when a narrower overcasting is desired.)
-
Converter attached
Fabric
Lightweight woven
Tension Settings
(LN) 0-1(LL) 3-4Serge
Place fabric under the foot with the edge against the cutter.
Serge along the edge to finish.
57
TWO THREAD FLATLOCK
Serge a two thread flatlock for decorative embellishments along a fold. Stitch and
then pull the fold flat for a row of serging that resembles braided embellishment.
Machine Setting
Stitch length
Stitch width
Stitch finer
Needle
3.5 4
6
Normal
Left
-
Fabric
Sweatshirt fleece
Tension Setting
(LN)-Otol
(LL) 3 to 4
-
-
-
Serge
1. Place fold of fabric 1I4 to the left of the cutter.
2. Stitch along the fold of the fabric with the left needle catching the fold
of the fabric and looping off the edge as you sew.
3. Pull ooen and flat.
Hint: Snap on the blind hem foot and adjust with the fold along the guide
and needle catching the folded edge.
58
TWO THREAD WRAPPED EDGE
Use the two thread wrapped edge for a reversible, decorative edge using specialty
thread.
Machine Setting
Stitch length
Stitch Width
Stitch Finger
Converter
3 35
6
In place
Attached
-
Fabric
Chino
Tension Settings
(LN) 4 5
(LL) 2-4
-
Serge
•Place under the presser foot and serge along the edge.
•The decorative threads should wrap around to the back side of the fabric.
,.
—
—
I
I
/
4;
59
TWO THREAD ROLLED EDGE
Use the two thread rolled edge for lightweight fabrics when you want the lightest
edge possible. Perfect for silky scarves.
Machine Setting
Stitch length
1
St itch width
5
Stitch finger
removed
Needle
right
Fabric
Lightweight woven
Tension Settings
RN
5
LL
8-9
Serge
Place under the presser foot and serge along the edge.
60
Section VII Optional Accessory Feet
-
BLIND HEM FOOT (141 000298- 05, 141 000299 1.0)
-
Purchase blind hem feet from your White sewing machine dealer. The blind hem
foot is available in two sizes 0.5mm for fine and medium fabrics and 1.0mm for
medium and heavy fabrics.
-
Machine Setting
Stitch length
Stitch width
Stitch finger
4-5
6
In place
Fabric
Sweatshirt knit
L
Final hem length
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) -4(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4Serge
1. Replace regular foot with blind hem foot.
Push up blind hem foot with your finger when
attaching (fig. 1). Turn up the hem to the
required depth and press. Fold the hem back
against the right side of the garment, creating a
soft fold on the wrong side of the fabric (fig. 2).
Fig. 1
Screw
Final hem length
Guide
Fg. 2
2. Place fabric under presser foot wrong side
up. Feed folded edge into the guide in the front
of the foot and lower the presser foot. Try several
stitches on a scrap of the foot and lower the presser
foot. Try several stitches on a scrap of the actual
fabric, and adjust the guide so that the needle just
catches the fold. To adjust the guide loosen the
screw on the top of the foot (fig. 3). Shift the guide to
the right or left as needed, and tighten the screw.
Fg.3
3. When correctly set, sew the hem. The outside
edge will be cut away by the machine (fig. 3). After
completion, open out and press again. The stitches
should be almost invisible on the right side of fabric.
Hint When starting a hem in the round, trim a small
section of the hem so that the fabric can be inserted
totally under the foot and on to the feed teeth.
61
PIPING/CORDING FOOT (#141 000300)
The piping/cording foot speeds both the making of piping and the insertion process.
Machine Setting
2 3
Stitch length
Stitch width
Stitch finger
-
6
Normal
Fabric
Medium weight woven and piping
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) 4
(RN)-4(UL) 4(LL) -4
-
-
-
-
Serge
1. Replace regular foot with piping foot.
2. Cut square of fabric in two and lay piping along seam line
between the two pieces of fabric (right sides together).
3. Insert fabric pieces under the foot so that the piping lays in
the groove under the foot.
4. Serge piping into the seam.
‘il’
62
___
ELASTIC FOOT (#141 000302)
An elastic foot is also available as an optional accessory foot. This foot will guide
1I4 to 3i8’ elastic, and at the same time stretch the elastic with our specially
designed tension controlled roller, allowing you to control the stretch while you sew.
Purchase your elastic foot from your local authorized White dealer.
Machine Setting
Stitch length
Stitch width
Stitch finger
4-5
5mm for a 4 thread overlock
4.0mm for a 3 thread overlock
In place
Fabric
Medium weight woven
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN) -4(RN) -4(UL) -4(LL) -4Serge
1. Replace the regular foot with the elastic foot.
2. Raise the elastic foot; loosen tension control
screw on the elastic foot to open front of the foot.
Insert elastic into and under the foot, until it reaches
behind the foot.
3. Sew the elastic for one inch or more to be sure
elastic is being caught. Tighten tension screw to
stretch elastic.
j
4. Insert the fabric under the foot and sew together
with the elastic.
5. Check the stitch and adjust the tension if necessary.
I
6. To adjust the amount of stretch:
a. Tighten adjustment screw for more stretch
in the elastic. (Turn screw to the right to tighten).
b. Loosen the adjustment screw for less stretch.
(Turn screw to the left to loosen).
Hint: Insert elastic into foot before placing foot on Superlock.
63
SHIRRING FOOT (#141 000301)
This foot, also known as a gathering foot or separator foot, is used for joining
two pieces of lightweight fabric while gathering only one of the fabric layers as it is
stitched to the flat layer.
Machine Setting
Stitch length
3 4
Presser foot
Shirring foot
Stitch width
6
Right & left
Needle
In place
Stitch finger
-
Fabric
Two strips lightweight woven
Tension Settings
Normal
(LN)-8(RN)-8(UL) 4(LL) 4
-
-
be straight
be gathered
-
Serge
1. Snap on the shirring foot.
2. Raise the presser foot and bring the needles
to the highest position.
3. Place the bottom fabric layer (2) between
needle plate and shirring foot
and insert it up to the needle against the
upper cutter.
4. Place the top fabric layer (1) in the opening
of the shirring foot and
flush with the bottom layer.
5. Lower the presser foot and sew guiding the
fabric against
fabric guide.
6. Do not hold back bottom fabric layer as it gathers.
64
SECTION VIII
Special Hints
Puckery Fabric
1. Check to make sure the stitch finger is in the normal position.
2. Make sure your stitch width is set correctly for the weight of the fabric you
are working with.
3. Make sure your tensions are set correctly. You may find your looper tensions
or your needle tensions are too tight.
Skipped Stitches
1. Improper needle type. Be sure to use an Organ brand needle.
2. Needle may be dull or bent change to a new needle.
3. Machine may be improperly threaded. Rethread and check all threading points.
4. Upper looper tension may be too tight. Loosen it slightly.
5. In any case, do not use a yellow or red banded needle.
-
Stitches Show Through on the Right Side of Seam
1. Needle tension is too loose. Increase tension slightly.
2. Machine is threaded while tension is engaged. Use tension release lever when
threading through the tension and pull thread into tension discs.
3. Needle is dull or burred causing a poor quality stitch. Change to a new needle.
4. Thread is not in thread guides or has slipped out.
Thread Continues to Break
1. The number one cause of thread breakage is incorrect threading. Make sure
the looper take up lever is threaded correctly and that all the thread guides
used are the proper symbol. It is important that each thread follow only one symbol.
2. Tension is too tight reduce the tension slightly to the corresponding looper/needle
that is breaking thread.
3. Needle is dull, bent, or burred change needle after completion of each garment.
4. Thread is caught on the spool or is wrapped around the spool pin use spool caps
to help support the thread as it is being released.
5. Improper threading sequence- if a looper breaks, needle thread must be removed
from the eye of the needle before rethreading the looper.
6. Old brittle thread or rough and uneven thread could cause breakage.
7. Check to make sure that the thread guide pole is completely extended.
Because of the speed of the Superlock, f the pole is not completely extended,
thread breakage can happen.
-
-
-
65
Cannot Get a Tight Stitch at the Cut Edge of the Fabric
If you are adjusting for a new fabric, for example a T-shirt knit, and a loop forms
on the outside edge of the fabric.
1. Looper tensions may be too loose increase both looper tensions.
2. Check to see that the thread is laying inside the tension discs. Use the tension
release lever when threading tension grooves.
3. Thread has slipped out of a thread guide recheck all threading points.
4. C utter is cutting too much fabric off. Recheck to make sure your stitch width is
set for the appropriate fabric.
-
-
Explanation: Why does this happen? On some fabrics such as T-shirt knit or other
fine knits, the moving cutter (upper cutter) is drawing or stretching the knit as it is
being cut. When it “springs back” to its normal shape, we end up with loops on the
outer edge. To correct this you will need to work with your width adjustment.
Adjusting Tensions
An easy association to remember when adjusting tensions is that the upper looper lies
on the upper portion of the fabric and the lower looper lies on the lower portion of the
fabric. The needle is the straight stitch.
Note: Whenever you have a tension problem there will be at least two threads
interacting. Because of this you will always have two choices: Increase one thread
tension or decrease the other thread tension, but usually not both at the same time.
Continue in this manner until a balanced tension has been reached.
You have just rethreaded your Superlock. The tension before rethreading was
beautiful but after rethreading one of the looper tensions is unbalanced. Attempting to
adjust by tightening the tension dials does not work. When you pull on the thread
coming out of the tension dials, there doesn’t seem to be any tension on the thread.
How could the tension dial malfunction simply by rethreading your Superlock?
Explanation: When rethreading your Superlock, always use your tension release lever.
When you lift the presser foot on your Superlock the tension does not automatically
release as it does on a conventional sewing machine. Therefore you need to use the
tension release lever to ensure that the thread will correctly “seat” itself in the tension
assembly. If the thread is not seated properly in the tension discs, the tensions will not
adjust properly or thread may pop out of the tension discs.
Machine is Jamming
1. Fabric is being inserted behind the cutting blade. Since the cutter is in front of the
needle, it must be able to trim the fabric before it is carried through the needle.
2. Thread is being caught under the presser foot. At the completion of each seam let
the Superlock run so that a tail is left behind the presser foot, or use your tension
release lever and pull out a tail of threads.
3. Presser foot pressure is too tight. Adjust this with the pressure release dial on the
top of your Superlock.
66
INDEX
Accessories
Adjustable Fabric Guide
Adjusting Cutting Width
Adjusting Presser Foot Pressure
Adjusting Stitch Length
Acjusting Thread Tension
4
7
25, 26
6
24
21
Balancing Stitch
Basic Sewing Techniques
Blind Hem Foot
Blind Hem Fold
Braid
Built-in Thread Cutter
25
22
61
32, 61
48
Casing or Hem Fold
Changing/Inserting Needles
Changing Presser Foot
Changing Thread
Cleaning
Closing Front Cover
Corded Overlock
Cutting Width Dial
Cutting Width/Stitch Width
32
10, 11
6
18
8
5
30
3, 25
25
Decorative Edges
Differential Feed
Differential Feed Dial
Disengaging Upper Cutter
47, 53
33
33
7
Elastic Applicaiton
Elastic Foot
51, 63
63
4-thread Overcast
4-thread Techniques
Fabric Guide
Flatlock
Foot Control
Fringe
23
22-37
7
49
5
52
Gathenng
37
Handwheel
Hints for Successful Stitching
6
9
Identification Chart
Inside Corners
3
29
Jamming
66
67
Lace Application
Ladder Stitch
IllJLeft Needle
Lightweight Fabrics
Lingerie Elastic Application
Loose Stitch
Lower Looper
50
49
16
35
51
66
15, 20
Minimal Differential Feed
34, 35
Narrow Edge
Needles, Insertion
Needle Selection
Needles, Thread and Fabric Chart
Needles, Threading
Needle Threader
Normal Differential Feed
45, 55
10, 11
10
11
16, 17
17
34
Oiling
Opening Front Cover
Outside Corners
Optional Accessory Feet
8
5
28
61-64
Picot Edge
Piping Foot
“Pokies”
‘Positive Differential Feed
Power/Light Switch
Puckery Fabric
Presser Foot Lift
Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment/Dial
41
62
44
34, 36, 37
5
65
6
6
Replacing Needles
Ribbing
Right Needle
Ruffles
Rolled Edge
Rolled Edge Over Fishline or Wire
Rosettes
10
31
16
37
40, 53, 54
54
37
Safelock
Seam and Seam Finish
Securing Beginning and End of Seam
Selecting Thread
Set-Up and Maintainance
Shell Edge
Shirring Foot
Sleeve Placket
11511t or Placket
1iJ Skipped Stitches
Spaghetti Straps
Special Hints
46
23
27
9, 11
5
55
64
29
43
65
42
65
68
Spool Caps
Specialty/Decorative Threads
Specialty Technique Guide
Spool Holders
Spool Nets
Stitches Showing on Right Side of Seam
Stitch Finger
Stitch Length
Stitch Length Dial
Storage
Stretch Knits/Bulky Knits
Swing-Away Side Cover
2-thread Converter
2-thread Flatlock
2-thread Techniques
2-thread Rolled Edge
2-thread Overcast
2-thread Wrapped Edge
3-thread Seam
3-thread Techniques
Table of Contents
Testing Stitch
Tension
Thread
Thread Cutter
Thread Guide Pole
Threading
Threading and Tension
Thread Breakage
Threading for 2-thread
Threading Sequence
Threading Lower Looper
Threading Upper Looper
Turning the Handwheel
Tying-on Thread
Upper Cutter
UpperLooper
12
12, 41, 54
30
12
12
65
40
24
3, 24
8
36
5
3, 56
58
56
60
57
59
39
38-56
i, ii
19
12-21, 67
9, 11
7, 19
13
12-21
12-21
65
56
13
15
14
6
18
3, 7
14,20
Vinyl Cover
8
Waste Tray/Trim Tray
7
69