the January edition of Dugg Dugg Times
Transcription
the January edition of Dugg Dugg Times
| | R O A D S U R V I V O R S m O n t h ly m A g A z I n e | | D e C e m B e R 2 0 1 5 | | DUGG DUGG T I M E S | | w w w. R O A D S U R V I V O R S . C O . I n | | “BRO! THIS IS THE BEST RM EVER! Road Survivors the Czars of Chandigarh e DItO RIAl InSIg ht Road Survivors – the Chandigarh Bullet Club – is all about riding, travelling, loving nature, and friendship. We bring together like minded individuals who share one thing in common – love and passion for the Royal Enfield motorcycles. Our 12 year old club comes together, not only to ride, but also, to share experiences, tour stories, and technical know-how. To say that the past 2015 has been phenomenal would be an understatement! Not only did we manage to pull off the biggest, craziest, wildest Rider Mania ever, we also celebrated our 12 year anniversary. But the highlight remains the Rider Mania #dohajaarpandrah. (Damn it’s not easy to stop using that hashtag!) Road Survivors members were hugged, kissed, and dry humped by happy, appreciative, attendees – and that was only when some or the other of us was not being held by the shoulder, looked into the eyes, and being ” told by a someone in high spirits – “Bro, this is the best RM ever!” It’s kinda hard to not be gushing about it even after 5 months. A big shout out to all our members, participants, business partners and sponsors for making this such a huge success. Well, from one Rider Mania to the next… RM 2016 hosts are going to be Nagpur’s Wanderlust MC. And the buzz is already there, the theme is out (“fullpower”), and the excitement is high. And as always, it is only going to get bigger and wilder. Ladakh season came and went, but Road Survivors didn’t really need to wait, did we? This summer past, we managed to do at least 9 major rides to exotic locations in the mountains… Destinations included the usual Ladakh, Lake Circuit, Lahaul and Spiti, Mughal Road, and Nepal. Phew! Keep riding safe. Until the next time! editorial photo: anukaran Singh Cover photo: nandita Saini || DeCemBeR 2015 || VOlUme 5 || road SurvivorS Magazine www.roadSurvivorS.Co.in [email protected] CONTENTS 1 2 3 4 5 eDItORIAl InSIght “Bro! This is the Best RM Ever!” by ravneet Juneja, aka teddy eVentS Rider Mania 2016: Nagpur by anukaran Singh memBeR SPOtlIght The Very Beanie Bean: Kanwar Aulakh by adie Mohan OUtSIDeR’S PeRSPeCtIVe Note to My Future Self: This is Why I Ride by gurleentoor CenteRfOlD Reminiscing: A Beer+A Bear Hug—Rider Mania 2015 8 10 12 13 PIttS & tRIPPIn’ Bikes+Religious-ness by taniesha Shrestha DOwn memORy lAne 1 Orchha—Unfinished Business by apoorva Mohan DOwn memORy lAne 2 Don’t Call Me Pillion by Swati Maheshwari DOwn memORy lAne 3 Memories of Jispa by ravneet Juneja, aka teddy Magazine ConCept Manpreet Walia publiSher Road Survivors printer Shivalik Printers 182/14, Industrial Area Phase 1, Chandigarh, India editorS Adie Mohan Ravneet Juneja, aka Teddy deSign & Creative direCtion Kat Kozell Contributing photographerS JoJo Kharuna Adie Mohan Nandita Saini Anukaran Singh and...Everyone Contributing writerS Adie Mohan Apoorva Mohan Anukaran Singh Gurleen Toor Ravneet Juneja, aka Teddy Swati Maheshwari Taniesha Shrestha all ContentS CopYrighted ©2015 by adie Mohan || DECEMBER 2015 || DUGG DUGG TIMES 1 R THE V E R Y BEANIE ider Mania, as we all know, is the oldest and purest of bikers’ festivals in the country. It is an event started by bikers and hence it retains its rawness and is devoid of corporate culture. It’s a nonprofit event started solely for the purpose of being a community-building exercise. Being managed, not by the corporates, but by biker clubs year after year, keeps the essence intact and alive. Needless to say, it’s a matter of a great deal of honour and pride to be the chosen hosts of an RM for a club. eVen tS BY ANUKARAN SINGH From Panamik in the higher Himalayas to Kanyakumari in the South, from the Rann of Kutchh in the west to Manipur in the east, there is hardly any place in the country that does not have blog.adiasak.com painted/pasted/written somewhere or the other. Saat Ke Baad Sola, Ab Ki Baar Bam Ka GOLA! Wanderlust MC had earlier hosted the event in 2007, still in its early stages, and saw a modest crowd of about 250. Since then the event has grown by leaps and bounds and realistically, we are now expecting around 1500 bikers for a “fullpower” jam up in 2016! Excitement within our camp and the rest of the BOBMC clubs is sky-high and so are the expectations. And true to its nature, offers of help, support, and assistance have been pouring in from clubs from all corners of the country in terms of sponsors, performing artists etc., and it is indeed as heartening a feeling as is the pressure build-up before the event. We have done it before, so we know the kind of hard work that goes into it—it’s an absolute delight and a large portion of bravado on our part to be the hosts again. It is indeed a fabulous feeling when your club is announced as the next host at a Rider Mania, and handed over the BOBMC flags. That moment is special. The pride and responsibility towards the event and the community is unmatched. The theme for RM2016 is FULLPOWER, and that is what you can expect—that is what we expect. In all aspects that’s what we’re working this RM to be like. Fullpower events, fullpower entertainment and expecting a fullpower turnout from the clubs and community alike to make this a roaring event, which we’re positive it will be. The location is Nagpur, which is the central-most city of India. It is a maximum of two and a half day ride from the far corners of mainland India and longer from North East India. 2 DUGG DUGG me mBe R SP O tlIg ht Such is the ubiquity of one of the oldest riders of Road Survivors, that nearly every biker in the country and beyond—though he would have no idea who they are even if they met him two hours ago—affectionately calls him “Bean”, “Beanie” or “Beanieman”. With a terminally ill bike, his wrappers of food come wafting through the air as he happily chomps away while riding—clueless as to where he is headed until fellow-bikers catch up and tell him to start riding in the opposite direction —Bean is probably one of the best known bikers in the country. He is friendly, fun, well-travelled and with a formidable number of kilometers behind him—nearly the same amount having been paid to mechanics— the 4-speed, bike-loving Kanwar leaves his mark nearly everywhere he parks. We decided to interview him to find out what he has to say about himself, et, al. Why do people call you Bean/Beanie? “For that amazing power of forgetfulness and all that follows later (we think, that is, the slight nasal resemblance to Rowan Atkinson).” What is this “adiasak” that you keep mentioning? “It’s my blog that contains my ramblings in the form of poetry.” When did you start riding? “My first ride was to Dharamshala in 1996, but I started regularly after I purchased my first Royal Enfield Bullet in 2004.” We have zeroed-in on an awesome venue that’s compact for maximum crowd proximity and concentration, yet adequate keeping all requirements in mind. Visit the website for the most current information on registration and venue: http:// bobmcridermania.com/registration-for-bobmcrider-mania-2016/ and https://www.facebook.com/ BOBMCRM/ Hoping to see you all in Fullpower. The promo tees received a great response and the first batch has already been shipped out. Fullpower 2016 is not too far now, and we can’t wait for it to come. See you there!!! TIMES || DECEMBER 2015 || What do you do for a living? “I am a teacher at a teacher’s training college. I also paint, sketch, ride my bike and as others say, ‘Vandalize places with my stickers and blog.adiasak.com graffiti’.” We have heard that most of Chandigarh’s mechanics call you their “retirement plan” Why’s that? “Because of my terminally ill motorcycle that refuses to heal.” There was an article about you in the previous issue of Dugg Dugg Times. Did all of that really happen? “Yes, there was an article in Dugg Dugg Times. It was a surprise though. I enjoyed it from the looks of it. I think people must have had a laugh or two, too!” Adie Mohan photos: ADiE MohAn+jojo khuRAnA || DECEMBER 2015 || DUGG DUGG TIMES 3 PhOtOS: AnUkARAn SIngh, nAnDItA SAInI+well...eVeRyOne bY gurleen toor e 4 DUGG DUGG TIMES || DECEMBER 2015 || higher—this thousand-strong Enfield enthusiasts who travel from The last tent has just been congregation of like-minded individuals across the continent to congregate folded, packed and stashed is having the time of their lives! at a single location. They journey away in the store. Rooms have OU tS IDe R ’S Pe R S P e C t I Ve ver since I can remember, I have always associated the “dug-dug” of an Enfield with my dad’s Dispatch Rider bringing him the day’s file work for review. While the DR used to wait in attention—such is the discipline of our Defense folk (you wonder if they are even breathing)—my brother and I, like many other kids, would often run and struggle to get on top of this royal being—pun intended—and pretend to be the two most important people in the world. Many-a-time I tried to get it off its stand by myself and invariably would be buried under its weight. Every time that happened, I could feel it smirk at me. Every time I crossed it in the Mechanical Transport—that’s Army for a parking lot (MT)— the temperature around it would simply dip. Such has been my relation with Her Highness—The Royal Enfield. But, when love and hate collide, the impact reverberates. It has been reverberating for a really long time now, year after year—and marrying an adventure enthusiast has not helped the case. On top of that, finding ardent riders in my best friends has brought back the memories of those years growing up—straining my ears at 4:00 PM in anticipation of that rhythmic beat pulling in front of our house when the Enfield looked so much bigger, so intimidating. I would just be in awe—a puny ant in love with this beautiful giant, always playing hard to get. I have grown up trying to keep these memories suppressed. But as that guy we read about in Physics said, “Every action has an equal and opposite reaction”. Please, go look up the antonym for “suppressed”. Since the time I figured out the responsibilities of life, I have never been an advocate of taking risks, big or small. I don’t see the adventure in uncertainty. I always have with me: a plan— a backup plan— and a backup for the backup plan. And, maybe as an excuse for being shunned by Her Highness as a kid, I had started associating riding as plain STUPID. However, this perception was soon to change, owing to Road Survivors, and owing to my notorious peeps associated with this enigmatic bunch of riders. You can never prepare enough for the experiences you are about to have, the people you are about meet and you definitely never can be prepared enough to meet JoJo and his merry Survivors. Whenever I meet JoJo, in my head he transforms T he Kikar Lodge is silent today. from his usual soft demeanor to someone straight out of a mafia book—sitting on his Thunderbird with all the world’s bling, he is the sugar daddy of the riding world to me. Even though I feel like a misfit amongst them, I feel like I am trying too hard and maybe to them I am just a wannabe. Nevertheless, I have had the opportunity to observe these guys very closely—just being around them feels like therapy. They play with uncertainty, but they play safe. They ride into the wilderness, but they are never arrogant about it. Yes, they are loud like any other riding group. And yes, they have skulls and leather all over themselves. Yet, they keep each other’s negative tendencies in check. I have witnessed their legendary “Meets”, and am always stunned at their meticulousness. If there were ever any kind of Green Belt, Black Belt certifications for surviving it, these guys would be top notch. And theirs is a responsible bunch too— forever ready to ride for a cause. Their contingency plans—be it I have had the opportunity to observe these guys very closely—just being around them feels like therapy. for a breakfast run, or when they traverse the length and breadth of the nation—make one realize that here is a grounded bunch that will never mess with destiny. I am not a Road Survivor (not yet)—but my blood rushes when I hear the stories of their jacket patches, the history of the various scratches on their bikes, the tales of the hinterland that gets etched on their speedometers—because I want those stories to be mine and I can’t wait enough. Here is a confession—I am not the kind to keep regrets. Lessons of life, yes, but never regrets. However, not riding enough will definitely be a regret that I may live with. I have been an aspiring rider for a long time now and I don’t quite know which one of these rides/events will be the last straw for me. But for now, Dear Enfield, let’s get this party started! Who am I, you ask? Not that you need it, but I am just a girl here to help you accessorize. What an extreme event this was! to Rider Mania simply to meet, been cleaned and restored to their Freezing-cold riders rolled in until four greet, make merry and experience former glory, sans the occupants. in the morning, filled their bellies with an unforgettable trio of days! The resort itself seems desolate. food and ale, danced, sang and made Although the sounds of roaring merry with their brethren until dawn! to congratulate, offer help, or just give engines, cheering riders and thumping Three full days and nights packed- us a beer and a bear hug, made our music are still ringing in the ears of full of excitement, fun and frolic! hearts swell with pride. We had finally Of the many souls who stopped by Rider Mania is considered a been able to pull this off! Months of pilgrimage akin the ride to Ladakh— hard work went into organizing this something a rider must accomplish mammoth event, the scale of which the small town and villages around it, once, then repeat each year. A could not be decided even at the last were abub with excitement as riders travelling Mecca for them—influenced moment. Over the course of the next from across the country descended by local culture and cuisine where month, we were flooded with emails for a three-day extravaganza called ever it travels to—Rider Mania is the expressing gratitude, joy and sharing “Rider Mania”. Each day, children foremost biking festival for Royal experiences. Thank you, my friends! lined the passage to the resort Enfield Enthusiasts the world over. YOU made this event a success! The the ones inhabiting this area, they too, miss the flurry of activity. Yet, not a week ago this resort, as volley-upon-volley of riders flocked to Punjab’s Kikar Lodge. Imagine—’Tis nearly dawn. The In its thirteenth edition this year, a biker’s haven was conjured by the centerfold of this edition deserves YOUR stories. So here goes! Road Survivors Club at the Kikar world is mostly asleep, comfortable Lodge for BOBMC Rider Mania in their cozy, little beds. Cut to 2015—#dohajaarpandrah, presented #dohajaarpandrah! A thousand human by CEAT. Rider Mania beings, and then some, are partying! attracts Royal Hard! Bikes being revved, new friendships being forged, graffiti being drawn! The ale flows, raising their spirits even || DECEMBER 2015 || DUGG DUGG TIMES 5 “RM 2015 for me was the rider community personified.” —PUNIT, Inddiethumpers, Mumbai “Bro, this is the best Rider Mania ever!”—BILAL, Inddiethumpers,Bombay “It was a great experience in the month of January. All my boys are still remembering the chilling weather, the warmth provided by you guys, and the regular susu intervals.” —SANJEEV, 99 Cannons, Hubli “This is what brotherhood smells like! I’m just amazed at what we’ve been able to pull off… Proud to have been a part of this epic event!” —COL. AJAI SINGH, Patiala “‘WATCH MY BACK’— As we say it fondly @GreatWhiteRiders. We reached Kikar Lodge with no expectations and were floored by Punjabi MehmanNavazi. Everything was just perfect. 2015 has taken BOBMC Rider Mania to a whole new level & has set benchmarks for years to come. Kudos and helmets-off to Team Road Survivors!” –VIJAY PATIL AKA VJ, Great White Riders The Motorcycle Club “Probably one of the best events that I’ve ever attended with arrangements and itinerary followed with military precision. RM’15 has set the BAR very very high for all other clubs who would be following suite in the coming years.” –HARRY, FSR, Delhi ER BE “I came half prepared to pitch to be the hosts for the next one, and the hospitality shown by my Punjabi blood brothers has just made me want to do nothing but return the love, and just furthered my resolve. See ya in Nagpur in 2016!” —ANUKARAN, Wanderlust MC, Nagpur “The 5083km ride from Secunderabad to #dohajaarpandrah was epic! Spirits dampened by a broken pushrod, extreme fog and being towed by Akshat Rajan through a slippery, winding path to the venue were revived by piping hot Rajmah Chawal that were served to us post 1am by RoadSurvivors! An unforgettable experience!” –PAPA WOLFE, AKA JACK JIGG “Excellent arrangements for stay, food, entertainment, and a fantastic venue. We were thoroughly impressed by the organization and the helping nature of you guys. The number of bike-related events should have been more, though.” –PRAVIN, Roadshakers, Pune “I was on my honeymoon with my wife riding pillion on this ride, and had a flat on the kachcha road to the venue at 2 in the morning, in pitch darkness with thick fog; the Ranchi Metal Riders helped us out, and we were received with a resounding welcome at 3:00am. That was all that was needed, and the superb arrangements were just an add-on! Thank you!”– ARUN, AKA HUNTER, Road Melters, Jamshedpur “As soon as I started from the venue, the new size zero named ‘Kareena’ (the piston) gave up. With a couple of thousand km to go, it seemed as if my dreams had come crashing down. But with support & encouragement from fellow Wanderers, I decided to drag ‘Anarchy’ (name of my 1976 std) until it gave up. But, it didn’t. Encouraging words from the expert mechanic Sikandar Bhai at Agra motivated me to complete the trip—’Insha Allah pahuchjaoge aaram se aap, slow chalao bas’. The ride back from RM2015 taught me to believe in myself & my ride”.—RAHOOL SAXENA , Wanderers UG BEAR H “2015 RM was my 5th RM; was a great experience, had wonderful time with all, and great food. Totally awesome experience as usual u guys rocked!”– SAILESH, Madbulls, Chennai “The ride broadened my views & gave me new experiences. It showed me, that no matter how hard it is, how bad the road, how much trouble the bike gives, if you’re with the right people, at the end of the day, it will seem as though nothing bad ever happened. And that family isn’t just the one you’re born into, but the people who take you in as one of theirs – no judgments or questions asked.”– TANIESHAA, FORE, Kathmandu, Nepal 6 DUGG DUGG TIMES || DECEMBER 2015 || || DECEMBER 2015 || DUGG DUGG TIMES 7 BY TANIESHAA SHRESTHA PIttS & t R IPPIn ’ A ride story by a 15 year old pillion rider who rode into Rider Mania with Friends of Royal Enfield (FORE), the Royal Enfield club in Nepal. 8 DUGG DUGG The morning of 18th of January saw 9 bikes and 14 riders set out for what they thought would be a road trip to India for Rider Mania #dohajaarpandrah (2015). Little did they know, that besides the testosterone dominated, booze filled event, they would also be going on an impromptu religious journey. We set out early in the morning, excited about what lay before us. Up till Chitwan we had an entourage of friends following us. The sound of Enfields tore the peace of the quiet morning of the Nepalese highway, and fueled our adrenalin. The wind blew through our layers of clothing and chilled our bones, yet nothing was harsh enough to stop us. We rode for hours on end, stopping only for meals, fuel, fixing bike breakdowns and the occasional break where we got too sleepy after eating the daal-bhat served on the highway or to soothe our aching butts. Cue, the Indian border. We had, by then, ridden for two days and the excitement was still as fresh as it had been when we first started out. We’d entered through Uttar Pradesh, and it was an adventure in itself. We got lost quite a bit, but that wasn’t our biggest problem, the food was. Our previously daal-bhat fueled bodies felt at loss as we stared at plates of papad like rotis, overly greasy aloo-parathas and daal. I know most people won’t believe me when I say this, but don’t be fooled by what people say about the food. It’s terrible. Meat deprived and grease filled, we rode on. Finding no accommodation late at night, we stayed at a Sikh Gurudwara, commencing the start of our religious journey. That night, we ate dinner at the traditional langar, or community dining hall, and slept in gender segregated dormitories. From there, we rode on towards Rishikesh. There, we saw the stars sparkle over the holy Ganga river at 3am. We also saw the aarti the next day at Haridwar. Watching the prayers and hopes disguised as lamps floating away at the mercy of the whimsical ripples on this holiest of holy rivers would give even a skeptic like me to feel an affinity towards God. TIMES || DECEMBER 2015 || We rode on tirelessly till the venue of Rider Mania near Chandigarh at the Kikar lodge. We arrived late at 11:03 pm. After getting tagged and registered, we rode into the hazy field and were officially welcomed by the sudden explosion of music, laughter and overly-enthusiastic riders from various parts of India. The next day began with the official club entries. Clubs after clubs rode on, each filling the air with sounds of engines and horns. Each club put up their flag. There was also a bhangra performance as well as stunts and such. A beer guzzling competition was held too. Day two (the final full day) brought us dirt-track races and a Sikh troupe that performed the display of Gatka, a sacred martial art. That night, there was a burnout (a game where one attempts to blow up their bike’s rear tire on a concrete slab by running the bike stationary) and the prize giving ceremony. There were also various club videos that were ran for everyone’s viewing pleasure. The scarcity of female riders was alarming to me. I had expected equal male and female numbers, but the women were few and far between. After Rider Mania, we moved on to Amritsar. There we visited the Golden Temple. The Jallianwala Bagh was like visiting a history book. The bushes are shaped like British soldiers taking aim at unarmed civilians—men, women and children. The “Martyrs’ Well” was a little more than slightly creepy, as were the surrounding abandoned houses. We also went to the Indo-Pak border to watch the changing of the guards. That, too, was a major production of each side preening their feathers and plumage to prove who the alpha-male was. Though there were female soldiers, the men on either side of the gate were highly anxious to show the other that they were more male, thus more intimidating and stronger. From there, we rode through the beautiful, yet intimidating Rajasthani desert to the shrine of a dead man called “Bullet Baba”. Bullet Baba or “Om Singh Rathor” was a man who died in a crash while riding his Enfield. His bike was taken to the police station. The next day, the bike was back at the site of the crash. This happened many times. The family of the deceased sold it to a Gujarati man. But the bike returned. Flabbergasted, and probably frustrated, the family placed the bike in a glass case and made that place into a shrine. Enfield devotees throng there. Although we are guilty of visiting, I personally didn’t discover what all the fuss is about, as the shrine is basically a place created to stop the haunted bike from frustrating the family. Onwards to Jodhpur we rode. The beauty of the desert is marred by busy towns smack in the middle of nowhere. The heat makes it a pleasant ride in the peak of the winter. Deer are a common sighting as are camels. Rajasthani women in their brightly coloured saris are a welcome sight in contrast to the muted hues of the desert. After miles and miles of nothing but desert, we suddenly burst into the bright city of Jodhpur, also called the “Blue City”. There, we rode up a hill. And atop the hill lay a fort. A fort that held stories and secrets galore… Stories that are told mostly through history text books or are now lost through the winds of time. The wind whispers stories that you would hear only if you listen real carefully. Stories of war, of love, of anger, of lust. The walls call—no, they seduce you—to enter and explore their many, many stories. We, on a side excursion, also visited the famous Rat Temple. My theory on the temple is that they had an infestation of rodents and decided to keep them because they are, according to Hindu mythology, the messenger as well as the transport of Lord Ganesh. We also visited a Sufi Dargah in Ajmer. From there we rode on to Jodhpur’s sister city Jaipur, or the “Pink City”. There is not much pink to see about the city and even the street which the city is famous for, is pink only because the walls are painted that colour. There, at midnight, when the clock struck 12, I turned 15 and had probably one of the most unforgettable birthday cakes in the world. The highly intoxicated bikers piled 3 slices of bread atop each other and stuck a match into it as a ‘candle’. After listening to a pretty off-key version of Happy Birthday, I cut the bread-cake and surprisingly the whole thing disappeared—just as if it were the tastiest birthday cake in the world! The visit to Agra was a lot of fun. It was also the last leg of our journey in India. We made the obligatory visit to the Taj Mahal (obviously) as well as the Agra Fort, as well as clicking the pictures that you do there. We re-entered Nepal the same way we went in, via Mahendranagar, and soon we were back in our own country. Lumbini was our final destination. There, we visited the birthplace of Lord Buddha. Unintentionally, wed not only visited the holiest sites for Hindus, Sikhs, Muslims and Buddhists but also Enfielders. However, I still have my doubts on the “holiness” of that last one that I mention! A church and a synagogue are all that remain to complete my inadvertent pilgrimage to the holy places of humanity’s most popular religions. From there, we rode off to Kathmandu… Home. The end. There were many that wondered whether my mom and my dad weren’t concerned if I would be enticed by the whole drugs-alcohol-weed scene that stereotypically seems second nature to bikers. Well, there were all of those but the thing is, that is not all what the ride was about. The ride broadened my views and gave me new experiences. It showed me, that no matter how hard the ride is, how bad the road, how much trouble the bike gives, if you’re with the right people, at the end of the day, it will seem as though nothing bad ever happened. And that family isn’t just the one you’re born into, but the people who take you in as one of theirs—no judgments or questions asked. This journey has taught me a lot. And no, being enticed by narcotics and alcohol was definitely not one of them. Thank you to everyone—my mum for making my dad take me, my daddy for taking me and all the bikers for being like family to me. I love you all. Flabbergasted, and probably frustrated, the family placed the bike in a glass case and made that place into a shrine. Editor’s Note: A couple of months after the FORE riders reached home, Nepal was struck with one of the biggest earthquakes in its history, on 25th of April, 2015, killing more than 8,800 people and injuring over 23,000. Hundreds of thousands of people were made homeless with entire villages flattened, across many districts of the country. In doing our bit towards the relief efforts, BOBMC clubs from all over India gathered contributions and handed them over to FORE, who helped in making sure that the relief reached the right people. || DECEMBER 2015 || DUGG DUGG TIMES 9 Orchha UNFINISHED BUSINESS by Apoorva Mohan tummy was making dying whale noises from the moment I woke up. We stepped out of the motel and it was B-E-A-UUU-tiful! The town was bustling with people! Our first jaunt was to get the bike’s kick stand fixed, since it had some issues. While riding to the repair shop, we came across a quaint, blue hut with a thatched roof— it was a pretty and adorable tiny, tiny hut—Adie was instantly in love and wished to live in it right then and there! After the bike was fixed, we finally headed to the infamous pakora guy, which I still hadn’t stopped hearing about. Sadly, when we arrived, the fellow informed us way to cross the river is to row a boat to the other side, which utterly fascinated me, to say the least. By the time we nudged ourselves to get off our butts and get moving, it was 2:00 P.M. It was already too late for us to go see the Raja Ki Chattris (cenotaphs) that had been calling out to me all this while from the banks of the river (as I ate and stared at them in a hypnotic gaze). What I did get to see was the Ram Mandir with my “guide”, Adie, regaling me with stories about how the famous Chaturbhuj temple that was built during the reign of Akbar, by the queen of Orchha, Ganeshi Bai. There is a lore that the Ram Mandir wasn’t even WE STEPPED OUT OF THE MOTEL AND IT WAS B-E-A-UUU-TIFUL! DOwn mem O Ry lAn e 1 1 0 DUGG DUGG TIMES || DECEMBER 2015 || travel back in time. There is plenty to behold in this small jewel-ofa-place, so be prepared for an entire day packed with sightseeing. If you’re a history nut with a thing for architecture, you have struck gold! Just to name a few places, there is the marvelous Jahangir Mahal, the stunning Raja Ram temple, and the famous Chaturbhuj temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. We arrived in the dead of night with Adie blabbering, “It’s so beautiful, so relaxed, with so much to see!” After listening to his story-after-story wafting into my ears for weeks, it seemed like a real load of crap. From my immediate viewpoint it was deserted and scary at midnight—I could not see anything through the pitch-black—plus, the ride from Jam to Jhansi had taken all the adventure out of me. All I yearned for was a warm, soft, cozy bed. Once we got to the motel, the bike was parked and we were ushered to our rooms. The last thing I remember is gazing my eyes upon a very welcoming bed, and that was it—lights out for the night. Thankfully, I had a wonderfully dreamless and much needed sleep. The morning was absolutely gorgeous and I wanted to stay, stay, stay! However, the plan was to head back north since the cold was catching up with us. I simply did not want to get out of the blankets that had so lovingly held me all night! Yet, we had to. When you ride with someone who is an early bird, you are dragged out of bed with tempting offers of delightful brunch and tea, and, well, my he didn’t have enough veggies to cook us anything! It was an outrage! He told us if we wanted to eat, we should head to the farmer’s market and get the vegetables for him to make the pakoras! And, well... we did, as quickly as possible, because we were people with tummies making dying whale noises, remember? Don’t judge us! We combed through the market and at long last spotted some colourful veggies! We selected what was needed, plus some eggs and bread, then were off to the pakora man. Once we delivered the produce, he skillfully made us delicious, hot pakoras with red salsa. We ate like pigs, then ate some more—indulging in lush, yummy, scrambled eggs! Interestingly enough, the fellow refused to touch and crack the eggs into the earthen dish he wanted to cook in, because touching an egg, somehow, was against his religious beliefs. Adie graciously volunteered to play sous chef and cracked open the eggs, cooked them up, then served them. At the end of the bridge where we sat to eat, starts the incredible dense forest of Tikamgarh. We didn’t have a chance to roam through it, however I would love to the next time we are there. The fellow told us that during monsoons, the bridge is submerged under water, as the river doubles up in size and takes over. The only supposed to be there. The Chaturbhuj temple was made for Lord Ram as Ganeshi Bai worshiped him. A fortune was spent on building it. The finest craftsmen toiled away to make it the most beautiful temple that was ever built. When Ganeshi Bai prayed to Lord Ram to come bless the temple, he said he would arrive in any form but, wherever he would sit, that shall be the place his temple would have to be built, and nowhere else. She agreed to this condition. Then, a child appeared and walked all the way to Orchha with the queen. After entering Orchha, the kid complained that he was too tired—he wanted to sit down to rest. They immediately did so. The queen begged the youngster to walk a little further where the Chaturbhuj temple was built in his praise, but the kid wouldn’t budge—and that, my friends, is how the Ram Mandir came to be! The Chaturbhuj temple was never opened but visitors still flock to the Ram Mandir today. Obviously, I have a lot of sightseeing left to do in Orchha. It quietly calls me in to discover unfound nooks and crannies, to soak up its never-ending beauty and history. Someday soon, I shall visit this magnificent place again as well as remember to begin my journey with the kind fellow under the tree, serving the divine pakoras with spicy red salsa. photos: ADiE MohAn+jojo khuRAnA W hen I read “Orchha”, I instantly taste delectable, hot pakoras with the zesty, homemade, red salsa. I’m sure others would share the same sentiment. However, for those of you unaware of the chatty fellow who sits under a tall tree at the end of the bridge above the Betwa River, you’re doing a great injustice to your beloved taste buds. Orchha seems like a place out of my dreams I have always wanted to visit. It is ancient, with tales of how the magnificent temples and forts came to be, that it so proudly adorns. You can sit by the glistening Betwa and look at the beauty for hours at a stretch, still wanting more of the sun-kissed temple and the gorgeous, colorful hues of nature all around. It is a small town, with tiny markets accompanied by stalls set up on both sides of the corridor. As you walk by, it is full of enchanting trinkets, clothes, souvenirs, woollen hats, socks, stoles—you name it! There’s a farmer’s market smack-dab in the middle of this charming village. I am aware of it because of the unique pakora binge that was forthcoming. So, the next time you’re in Orchha, go vegetable shopping with plans for pakora-munching, sitting on one of the oh-so-comfy grand rocks with your back resting on the trunk of an ancient tree—while enjoying its shade—grateful for the warm sunshine and listening to the singing river flowing by. The architecture of Orchha is such that you sense an exceptionally strong, dreamy, come-hither factor—it makes you THE TOWN WAS BUSTLING WITH PEOPLE! || DECEMBER 2015 || DUGG DUGG TIMES 11 Memories of DOwn m e mO Ry lAne 3 Jispa DOwn m e m O Ry lAn e 2 I by Swati Maheshwari don’t like to be called a pillion rider. Someone once suggested that we could instead refer to a pillion as a co-rider, if that sounds better. I wasn’t convinced. I love the rides—especially because they are with my husband, Vineet. Also, because I fell in love with him on the open roads while we explored the beautiful highways of Maharashtra. I have been on endless trails at his side—rocky, beachy, sandy, rainy— all of it. But, I have never felt the need to be identified as a rider when I cannot possibly move even the footrest of the bike—well, almost. I accompany Vineet on every adventure on two wheels, but I can only experience the spirit of a rider from a distance. I am certainly not a rider— let alone pillion or co-rider. In fact, I am far from rider status. It’s like knighthood that you earn and something I shouldn’t, wouldn’t, and couldn’t yearn. I didn’t understand the word brotherhood until I became a regular traveler on the rides. Being with the brotherhood made me realize what it truly means to stand up for each other, or to just be by each other’s side. The more I experienced their camaraderie, the more respect I had for every rider. They get their hands dirty in grease come the heaviest rains, or the night’s darkest hour—nobody moves an inch without their brothers. I know what it means to Vineet to ride alongside a senior rider or to lead the way for someone who is at the dawn of their riding journey— it’s that deep-rooted bond he has with every other rider—young or old, experienced or not. My admiration for each rider goes up with every outing I am part of. The more I cherish the highways, the more I realize that being a rider is a lot more than just riding the bike. I have made many great friends through Vineet’s treks—people who treat me like their own from the very moment we meet. They are exceedingly protective and warm—I always feel genuinely comfortable around riders I may have never heard of before. Invariably, it’s heartwarming to connect with a new rider because there is so much to talk about— so many highway stories to share. Plus, it’s always a great deal of fun. I laugh the most on after-ride dinners! Long before we got married, Vineet told me how going to Rider Mania every year is important for him. I didn’t grasp what the big deal was until I finally went with him. As it turns out, he really meant what he said. That’s what I gathered since I didn’t actually see him during those two days. I did spot him once amidst the thumping madness—he was sloshed in laughter and brotherhood with riders from all over the country. I learned something important that day—I am definitely not a rider—at best, I am his true companion on the road, as in his life. It was almost a decade ago that our group of 19 Bullets thundered into the obscure little, roadside village of Jispa (a tiny hamlet with a population of barley 340, in the Lahaul district of Himachal Pradesh). As we rode in, the village inhabited the right bank of the road while on the left was Bhaga river whose gushing sound mingled with the high speed winds – chilly winds that pinch the skin – and knocked the senses back into a 24-person group that had reunited only about 8 kilometers back at Darcha. Of recollections a lot remain, yet only few come to mind... And they include facts like breaking out the new campsite with the fresh tents and the crisp bedding... The one little PCO-cumgrocery shop lit by a single candle where a lot of us phoned home from, while others also got the chips and Coke supply... The 2 feet by 2 feet camp toilet that was restricted for use by ladies only, yet was used by Adie and me as well, in the end of course... And Swarn and Lalli’s plan to ride off @ 6AM towards home – and actually implementing it. 2 days away. That was home. And the end of Ladakh Beckons ‘05. While everyone was exhausted and was looking forward to getting back, everyone’s other side also did not want it to end. The wonderful “KargilZanskar-German Bakery-Nalle bhar jaaengePajame bahut garam hain-too much Maggi” interspersed caravan, that had given us all such a high... A high that only half of us were half aware would last well beyond our return. That was a time when travelling to Ladakh was not commonplace, leave alone “riding” there. And for such a large convoy of bikes not led by a professional “tour guide” to make Ladakh their own for two whole weeks, was unheard of. And yet we did it. And some of us have been doing it every year, without fail, since. While others reminisce, like this, waiting to go back some day. Next day we crossed the Paagal Nalla that Aman had been dreading the entire trip. And crossed Rohtang to come back to the other side. And those are stories by themselves, waiting to be told at another time. PS – Gomes, the guy whose brand new camp we crashed for the night at in Jispa, was the one responsible for setting up the entire Tent City at RM #dohajaarpandrah. Helmets off! Ravneet Juneja, aka Teddy That was a time when travelling to Ladakh was not commonplace, leave alone “riding” there. And for such a large convoy of bikes not led by a professional “tour guide” to make Ladakh their own for two whole weeks, was unheard of. And yet we did it. And some of us have been doing it every year, without fail, since. While others reminisce, like this, waiting to go back some day. PhOtO: ADIe mOhAn 1 2 DUGG DUGG TIMES || DECEMBER 2015 || || DECEMBER 2015 || DUGG DUGG TIMES 13 • Campsite in Leh, Ladakh • Bike Services • Great Food • Beau�ful Loca�on • Pitch your own Tents Contact: Ritesh Saxena (09818824450) • Games and Events Village—Kangar, Nurpur BediDistrict Ropar—140117 (Punjab) +91 9478964971, 01887 251001