Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir

Transcription

buying guide
JULY 2013
2 california
33 Oregon
36 Washington
41 Chile
47 austria
50 Germany
Steve Hix/Somos Images/age fotostock
52 northeast italy
54 central italy
60 provence
63 bordeaux
67 spain
74 spirits
76 beer
for additional ratings and
reviews, visit
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buyingguide
united states
searching for those perfect summertime sippers
A
s we move further along into the summer season and the mercury climbs ever upward, we naturally turn to vinous selections
that offer a sense of refreshment, trying desperately to beat the
summer heat while still quenching our thirst for good wine. While there
are a plethora of options available, made from countless varieties and produced all over the world, experimentation and a sense of adventure have
led many American winemakers to craft an extraordinary range of homegrown selections.
As California Editor Steve Heimoff describes in his feature on “America’s New Summer Whites” on page 48, we are now spoiled for choice. Although Americans have traditionally had soft spots in our hearts for certain white varieties (mainly Chardonnay, but also Pinot Gris and Sauvignon
Blanc)—and we’re not about to deny the appropriateness of some of those
selections at your summer picnic table—the fact remains that there are
many more options. With so many interesting grapes to discover and styles
to explore, why not seek out something different this month and find a new
california
white wines
chardonnay
favorite warm-weather go-to wine?
If summertime instantly makes you “think pink,” then we’ve got you
covered with this month’s tasting of Provençal rosés. European Editor
Roger Voss reviewed dozens of current releases, in varying styles and at every price point, to help you make the most of your rosé shopping this season. With their modest alcohol levels, fresh berry and stone-fruit flavors,
brisk acidity and penchant to be served slightly chilled, now is the best
time to enjoy these subtly nuanced but remarkably refreshing wines. Plus
they pair masterfully with just about any traditional barbecue fare, from
the mains to the sides.
Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews from Austria,
Bordeaux, Central Italy, Chile, Germany and Spain, as well as hundreds of
reviews from California, Oregon and Washington. And, as always, be sure
to check out our fully searchable database at buyingguide.winemag.com
for thousands more reviews and recommendations.
Cheers!
—Lauren Buzzeo
it. The alcohol is refreshingly low, the acidity is bright,
and there’s a lick of steel to balance the nectarine and
mango fruit, buttered-toast and cream flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
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Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For
full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli-Allen Vineyards Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The Chardonnays from this Farrell bottling are
always very fine and among the most consistent across
vintages. The 2010 shows ripe, concentrated tropical
fruit and green-apple flavors, brightened with crisp,
Russian River acidity. Deft, firm and delicious, it will
provide great Chardonnay pleasure over the next 4–5
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 3.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
94
Lynmar 2011 La Serenité Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). This is a best-ofbarrels blend from different vineyard sites. It’s a very
good wine that grabs your attention with sheer Chardonnay dazzle. The tropical fruits are incredibly ripe
and intense, with sweet, smoky oak adding supportive
richness, brought into focus by crisp acidity. There’s a
core, like the nucleus of an atom, that holds everything
together. Might even age for half a dozen years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70
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Lynmar 2011 Susanna’s Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $55
94
Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
93
Failla 2011 Hudson Vineyard Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This precisely crafted
wine lifts Carneros Chardonnay to a whole new level.
Yes, it’s pricey, but so complex and decadent, it’s worth
2 | wine enthusiast | july 2013
Balletto 2011 Sexton Hill Vineyard Estate
full review see page 6.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
92
Calera 2011 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan).
Josh Jensen brings his restrained hand to this
very fine Chardonnay. It’s notable for the excellence of
all its parts, and the balanced way they co-exist. You’ll
find tantalizingly rich tropical fruit and peach flavors,
with nuances of oak, as well as the minerality that the
estate vineyard brings to all its wines, white and red.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
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Failla 2011 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay
(Fort Ross-Seaview). Shows the estate vineyard’s signature in the moderate alcohol, sleek, streamlined mouthfeel, bright acidity and intensity of flavor.
It’s laser-like in lime, mango, honey and vanilla, with
minerally overtones that taste of the earth. Drink now,
as it is very fine and delicious. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $44
Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full
review see page 7.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
Matanzas Creek 2010 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). For full review see page 7.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
92
Two Sisters 2010 Courtney’s Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Williams Selyem 2011 Heintz Vineyard
abv: 13.9%
Price: $55
91
Breggo 2011 Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). This is a cool-climate Chardonnay that’s
dark gold in color and tastes of ripe apple. From both
the Ferrington and Savoy Vineyards, two of Anderson
Valley’s finest, it shows the greatness of the vintage in
coastal Mendocino. Fragrant and rich in honey and
toasty notes, it finishes crisp. Crab cakes with it would
be ideal. —V.B.
Price: $28
abv: 13.4%
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Gary Farrell 2010 Westside Farms Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). A very good
wine from one of the newer entries to the Farrell pantheon of vineyard-designated Chardonnays. It’s brisk in
acidity, with voluptuous tropical fruit and green apple
flavors. New oak brings the usual complexities of buttered toast and vanilla. The texture is just a little scoury.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
Continued on Page 16
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated
by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified
tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include
Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director
Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa,
Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael
Schachner, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits
Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger
Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome,
California Editor Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing
Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa and Contributing Editors
Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Seattle.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two
or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect
the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits
Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by
Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
96
Figgins 2010 Estate Red Wine (Walla
Walla Valley). This is the third release of
Figgins, a single wine produced by Leonetti’s Chris
Figgins from his Figgins Estate vineyard. Intensely
aromatic, it explodes from the glass with baking spices
and deep cassis fruit. Over the course of three days it
opened into a sleek, stylish, complex mix of purpleand black-berries, dried herbs, bark, dusty cocoa and a
streak of caramel. Long and lush, it’s a wine to cellar for
a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $85
95
Marimar Estate 2009 Mas Cavalls Doña
Margarita Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). This is a dazzling Pinot Noir, so
gorgeous to drink for its rich, complex deliciousness.
Yet appealing as it is now, there are multiple subtleties
waiting to be discovered, and the wine has a fine future.
Like all of Marimar’s Pinots, it’s a big wine—rich and
extracted and dense in weight. The flavors veer towards
ripe pomegranates, black cherries and sweet licorice,
with hints of dark chocolate, orange peel and even the
umami of charcuterie. Despite the weight, it magically
remains lithe, like a ballerina leaping into the air. Drink
now–2019, as it gradually ages. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $44
Tasting Methodology and Goals
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted.
About the Scores
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
Special Designations
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
Submitting Products for Review
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission
forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.
Labels
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on
label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
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Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
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Williams Selyem 2011 Terra de Promissio
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A
new bottling from the winery. The vineyard is in the
Petaluma Gap, a cool area south of the Russian River
Valley, toward San Francisco. The vintage was cool,
too, so the wine is brisk in acidity and low in alcohol,
but it still tastes amazingly ripe and complex. The wine
dazzles with waves of black raspberry jam, sweet olive
tapenade, sautéed brown mushroom, root beer, mooshu plum sauce and mocha. If those flavors sound like
they don’t go together, just try the wine. It’s seamless
and compelling. Drink now–2020. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
95
Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Char
donnay (Russian River Valley). This wine
could easily be mistaken for French Chablis. It’s notable
for the tight, nervous feeling that acidity and minerals
combine to stimulate, and the finish is very dry. There
is, fortunately, a great heart of sweet tropical fruit, like
the purest golden mango purée, ripe and succulent and
honeyed. Terrific now, but such is the balance that this
could be one of those Chardonnays that changes in
interesting ways over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
95
Nickel & Nickel 2010 Harris Vineyard
Merlot (Oakville). This is a great Merlot that’s
intensely concentrated and dazzlingly rich—everything
you want a Merlot to be. It’s power packed with black
cherries, cherry liqueur, cocoa and sweet oak, with firm,
hard tannins. That is, of course, the Nickel & Nickel
style. It shows classic Oakville structure and a hard-todefine elegance, making it one of the best Merlots of
the vintage. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $53
95
Teso La Monja 2010 Alabaster (Toro).
Pure blackberry, cola, licorice and vanilla
aromas form the base of an alluring, impressive
bouquet. A layered, tannic palate is next up, followed by
complex flavors of toast, mocha, black fruit, licorice and
pepper. Density and firm tannins drive the finish, which
tastes like bitter chocolate and espresso. This powerful
Toro will be at its best from 2015–2020. Jorge Ordoñez
Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $220
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95
Von Strasser 2010 Estate Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).
While the winery’s regular 2010 Diamond Mountain
Cab is a barrel selection, this Estate Vineyard selection
consists of “only the darkest, most extracted lots,”
from the winery’s various vineyards, according to the
winemaker. That’s exactly what you get, an inky wine, it’s
huge on the palate with blackberries, currants and dark
chocolate, augmented by plenty of new French oak.
It is absolutely delicious now, but the tannin structure
guarantees to develop for 10–20 years. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
94
Gary Farrell 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Extra
ordinarily sweet and attractive in raspberry and cherry
fruit, as concentrated and pure as anything in California.
The acidity is beautiful, as you’d expect from this
vineyard in such a cool vintage, and it showcases Pinot
Noir’s silkiness and beauty. Despite the immediate flash,
it will develop bottle complexity; hold until 2016. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
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Leonetti Cellar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). All Leonetti wines are
100% estate-grown fruit, mixing Seven Hills, Mill Creek
Upland and Loess vineyard grapes. The 2010 Cabernet
Sauvignon includes 12% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and
4% Carmenère in the blend. Young and chewy, with a
hint of herbaceousness, this shows lovely balance and a
mix of raspberry, black cherry, cassis, coffee and cacao.
It’s a young, deep and powerful wine that will certainly
reward cellaring. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $90
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Von Strasser 2010 Reserve (Diamond
Mountain). This is a 40-40 blend of Cabernet
Sauvignon and Petit Verdot, with the balance consisting
of Merlot. It’s a barrel selection of the winery’s best lots,
from its various vineyards, and has been aged in 100%
new French oak. Yet it’s not oaky at all, with the wood
bringing only additional sweet, smoky richness to the
red currants, cherries, dark chocolate and spices. This
is a superb wine, delicious right out of the bottle, but it
should develop and, depending on your tastes, improve
over the next 20 years. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $135
95
Von Strasser 2010 Sori Bricco Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).
This is an enormous Cabernet, as packed with intensity
and power as anything in Napa Valley. The vineyard
is Von Strasser’s highest on the mountain, which
maximally exposes it to the sun, and you can taste the
solar ripeness in the intense essence of black currants
and dark chocolate. The tannins exhibit classic Diamond
Mountain potency. This is a dense Cabernet that needs
serious time in the cellar. Hold until 2019, and it will
continue to develop for many years afterward. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Gary
Farrell is one of the few wineries to obtain fruit from
this coveted vineyard. As always, the wine is intensely
concentrated in tropical fruits, green apples and pears,
with such weight that it can easily handle lavish new
French oak. The alcohol is refreshingly low and the
acidity is brisk and mouthwatering. This gorgeous
evocation of Russian River Chardonnay is flashy and
delicious now, but the window of opportunity seems to
be between 2014–2017 before the fruit starts to fade
away. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Kiona 2010 Single Berry Select Botry
tised Chenin Blanc (Red Mountain).
Among Kiona’s strengths, the dessert wines are right
at the top. This wine—comparable in many ways to
the Single Berry Select from Eroica (which costs more
than twice as much)—features Chenin Blanc rather
than Riesling, and why not? It’s a seductive, delicious
bottle that expresses the condensed essence of the
grape. Even at 274 g/L of residual sugar, it does not
translate to a cloying or super-sweet wine; rather it is
buoyed by supporting acidity, while filling the mouth
with candied fruits, flowers, and buttery pastry notes.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 9.4%
Price: $80/375 ml
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Lynmar 2011 Susanna’s Vineyard Char
donnay (Russian River Valley). The trick
with getting a Chardonnay this honeyed is to keep it
balanced and make it finish dry. Lynmar accomplishes
these tasks with dexterity. Partly because of the acidity,
partly the stony, crystalline minerality. The wine is
terrifically rich in tropical fruits, melons, sweet Meyer
lemons and ripe summer peaches, with all the buttered
toast you could ever want from oak. In lesser hands, it
would all be too much. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $55
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S.A. Prüm 2009 Graacher Dompropst GG
Riesling (Mosel). Voluptuously textured and
intensely juicy on the palate with rich peach, melon and
citrus notes, this remarkably dry Riesling is a showcase
of balance and finesse. The palate tingles with tangerine
acidity kissed with hibiscus nectar and savory, crushed
slate. Palm Bay International. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $70
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Sequum 2009 Four Soil Melange Cab
ernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Produced
from four vineyards throughout the valley, this Cabernet
shows the art of the blend. It’s softly tannic and frankly
delicious, with dazzlingly rich blackberry, cassis liqueur,
anise and mineral flavors. Hard to describe how
attractive this wine is now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
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Château d’Esclans 2011 Garrus Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). A powerful, woodaged rosé that shows great richness, density and
structure. Treat this as a fine wine and you’ll appreciate
the texture, the mature berry fruits, the spice and
vanilla flavors. Weighty and full in the mouth, this
could even age well for another year or two. Shaw-Ross
International Importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Fantastic fruit,
tantalizing acidity and overall balance mark this Pinot.
It’s ripe with cherries, pomegranates, rhubarb and
persimmons, while plentiful new oak is perfectly in
keeping with the underlying power. Drink now, after
proper decanting, or age over the next 5–15 years,
as it gradually reveals different sides of itself. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $65
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Silverado 2009 Limited Cabernet Sau
vignon (Napa Valley). This is a barrel
selection, presumably limited in cases. It’s an extra
ordinarily rich, concentrated 100% Cabernet Sau
vignon, made in the modern cult-style of massively
extracted blackberries, black currants, cassis liqueur
and chocolate, with oak bringing the usual sweet toast
and vanilla complexities. This deserves its high score
for sheer opulence and great Napa structure. Delicious
now, and could easily age for at least 10 years. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $150
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Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane
Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). Insanely rich and opulent, brimming with
apricot and tangerine jam, green-apple butter, pine
apple tart, vanilla, honeysuckle, buttered toast and
spice flavors. Somehow, the mass is reined in by a
tight framework of acids, minerals and oak tannins.
This shows the pedigree that comes from this famous
vineyard, as well as the Williams Selyem signature of
extreme class and deliciousness. Drink over the next
five years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)
2010 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua
Valley). For price and quality, Le Dix 2010 takes
things to a high level. The nose on this Cabernet-led
blend is full of violet, lilac, cassis and mild oak. The
palate is multilayered and has a complex feel to it, while
flavors of baked berry, cassis, coffee and marzipan finish
with size and length. This is one of the most balanced
and complete versions of Le Dix to date. Drink from
2014–2022. Pasternak Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
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Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg VineyardDijon Clones Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). The Dijon clones (667 and 777) used in this
wine yield unusually pure, intensely clean flavors of
raspberries, cherries and anise, at a moderate alcohol
level. The vineyard location and cool vintage must have
contributed to the acidic bite. It’s a very fine wine—
elegant and noble—but immature. You’ll want to cellar
it for 5–6 years to allow it to show its stuff. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
93
Linked 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights
Valley). This is a very expensive Cabernet, but
it also tastes dramatic and powerful. The chocolate,
blackberry, currant and oak flavors are massive, while
the tannin-acid structure is just about perfect. Feels as
lush as California Cab gets, but never loses integrity or
balance. Should age well for the next 10 years. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $120
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Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Block 10
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a
big, vital, dramatic Pinot Noir that shows its fine terroir
with enormously concentrated raspberry and cherry
fruit, balanced by fine acidity, subtle tannins and a bite
of cherry-pit bitterness. It’s a great wine that will benefit
from 6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
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Marimar Estate 2009 Chico’s Run Doña
(Sonoma Coast). This wine was made from very
specific Pinot Noir clones planted in a small block of the
estate vineyard. It’s exceptionally ripe with raspberry
and cherry flavors, and plenty of new oak. A big wine,
it’s dark in color and impressive in weight, yet maintains
a complex lightness of being. Drink now–2017. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
93
Redmon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). Tough and gritty, with hard tannins,
this is definitely astringent and dry, but it does show
classic Napa character. Blended with Cabernet Franc
and Merlot, it’s rich in blackberry, black cherry, currant
and dark chocolate flavors that finish long. It would be
a mistake to drink this wine too young. Cellar it until
2018, and it should provide mature beauty well beyond.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Balletto 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). An exceptionally good Pinot,
from a winery that frequently gets overlooked, perhaps
because they’re not charging an arm and a leg. The wine
is light and silky in the mouth, with alcohol well under
14%, and marked with crisp acidity and fine-grained
tannins. The flavors are classic pomegranates, rhubarbs
and black cherries. Should develop over the next 4–6
years. What a great value. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $29
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Marimar Estate 2009 Stony Block Don
Miguel Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). An awesomely rich Pinot
Noir, this is a big wine that’s darkly colored and
intensely layered with raspberry, chocolate, spice and
mushroom notes. Lots of new oak shows up, but it’s
balanced against the wine’s power. Delicious now, but
should reward aging over the next eight years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $47
Reaper 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County).
This is a lovely Pinot Noir, with a translucent
ruby color. It’s dry, delicately structured, moderate in
alcohol and complex. The cherry, pomegranate and
persimmon flavors have a pleasant tea-like bitterness,
along with earthy notes of mushrooms and sweet wild
herbs. At this price, it’s one of the greatest bargains
on the market. Unfortunately, only 800 cases are in
circulation. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
St. Supéry 2009 Estate Cabernet Sau
vignon (Rutherford). Any warm California
region can ripen fruit to this degree, resulting in black
berry, cassis and chocolate flavors. But Napa’s special
magic concerns the wine’s structure. Here, you’ll find
fantastically firm tannins and quite a bit of acidity. Both
give the wine the architecture to house all the richness.
Drink now, after decanting, and over the next 10 years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $85
Balletto 2011 Burnside Road Vineyard
Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
With an alcohol reading of only 13.3%, this Pinot
offers a refreshingly light alternative to darker, heavier
bottlings in California. It’s silky in the mouth, despite
some firm tannins, with subtle, complex raspberry, red
currant, tobacco, mushroom, balsam and spice flavors.
Lovely now, and should have no trouble developing in
the bottle over the next eight years. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $42
Balletto 2011 Sexton Hill Vineyard Estate
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
Marked by sheer lusciousness, this single-vineyard
Pinot Noir delights with pure, intense raspberries,
cherries and spicy persimmons, wrapped into a silky
texture. With modest alcohol and a touch of oak, it’s
a feminine wine, elegant and appealing, yet it packs
plenty of power. Drink now–2018. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
Caliterra 2009 Cenit (Colchagua Valley).
Cenit is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon,
Carmenère, Malbec and Petit Verdot. The bouquet is
meaty and dense, with deep black-fruit aromas along
with herb and olive notes. The palate is loud and bangs
around, then you get a lot of coconut, vanilla and ripe
blackberry flavors. From a warm year, this is superripe
and dark, with plenty of wood but also a lot of quality.
Drink through 2017. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Daou 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Rich, dense, soft and
incredibly concentrated, this Cabernet gives wave after
wave of blackberry jam, chocolate, licorice and cedar
flavors. Feels elegant, complex and fine. Drink now–
2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $56
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Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). The vineyard
is near Sebastopol and the Green Valley, and the wine
shows its cool-climate origins in the brisk terroir that
gives the raspberry, sweet red cherry and persimmon
fruit such bite. It’s enormously attractive to drink now
for sheer lusciousness, but has the integrity to age for
10–15 years, perhaps longer, depending on your taste
for older Pinot. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
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L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Estate Luminesce
Seven Hills Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley).
This white blend is two thirds Sémillon, one third
Sauvignon Blanc. It has continued to improve from
vintage to vintage, and this is the best yet. A Washington
take on Bordeaux blanc, it’s dry and fresh, with golden
apple and sweet grain extending across the palate and
on through a lingering, lightly peachy finish. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Longoria 2010 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The alcohol on this
bottling is lower than most Fe Ciegas have been in the
past, reflecting the cool vintage. The wine seems more
austere than in the past, withholding a bit of the early
appeal it used to show. Nonetheless, it’s wonderfully
structured in acids and tannins and very dry, with a
judicious application of oak, and there are intricate
flavors of cherries, red currants and herbs. Seems like
it could shine with age, so give it six years in the cellar.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
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Gary Farrell 2010 Stiling Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). A strong,
punchy Pinot Noir, ungainly now for its immaturity,
showing tons of jammy raspberries and cherries.
The acidity is tart, which is good in a wine this rich,
providing balance, and there’s also a scour of tannins.
All indications suggest cellaring this wine for at least six
years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Char
donnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). A very
nice interpretation of coastal Chardonnnay, from this
increasingly well-regarded vineyard. It’s rich in notes of
peach smoothie, pineapple tart, buttered toast, vanilla,
honey and creamy lees, yet manages to finish dry.
Brightened by crisp acidity, it never loses a sense of pinpointed focus. Drink now. —S.H.
Price: $50
abv: 14.3%
Marimar Estate 2011 Don Miguel
Vineyard Albariño (Russian River Valley).
With this bottling, Marimar Estate confirms itself as one
of the two best, most consistent producers of Albariño
in California, along with Longoria. The wine is brilliant,
with brisk acidity, dryness, modest alcohol and complex
flavors of citrus fruit and zest, minerals, white tobacco
and ripe figs. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
Matanzas Creek 2010 Chardonnay
(Sonoma County). The winery held this
Chardonnay back a year later than their far more
expensive Journey bottling. Hard to say why, but the
consumer is the beneficiary. That extra bit of aging has
mellowed the wine, giving it a creamy, buttery richness.
It has good acidity, too, that gives a lift to the ripe
tropical fruits. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
Minassian-Young
2011
GrenacheCinsault Rosé (Paso Robles). California
rosé is awfully hard to get right. It’s usually too sweet,
too heavy or both. With this Grenache-Cinsault blend,
Minassian-Young knocks it out of the park. The wine
is dry, delicate, modest in alcohol, and complex, with
subtle peach, rosehip tea, orange zest, watermelon and
spice flavors. A great bargain, but only 64 cases were
produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $16
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Peters Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Mountain). Quite a good Cabernet,
pure and intense in varietal characteristics of black
currants, but balanced and elegant. The tannins are
smooth, the finish complex and long in spices. Delicious
as it is now, your best bet is to cellar this Cab for 6–8
years, and possibly longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $52
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Scratch 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia
Highlands). Scratch is a very promising
inaugural Pinot Noir from Sabrine Rodems, who’s also
the winemaker for Wrath and Kori. It shows the vibrant
fruit of the Highlands, with potent raspberry, cherry and
persimmon flavors, yet is dry and balanced in acids and
tannins, with a super-long finish. Possesses that hardto-define characteristic of class. Great now, and you can
hold it several years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
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Shafer 2010 One Point Five Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). This
proprietary bottling from Shafer is always a huge wine.
The 2010, which contains a splash of Petite Verdot, is
gigantically packed with blackberry jam, black currant,
dark chocolate and sweet oak, courtesy of 20 months
in 100% new French oak barrels. The wine is a bit of
a bully now, but it has the balance to age. Give it until
2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $72
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Williams Selyem 2011 Heintz Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Shows
the usual Williams Selyem Chardonnay profile of huge
fruit and flashy oak. This opulent wine would be overthe-top except that it’s balanced by crisp, lemony acidity,
and somehow retains a tight core with a gravitational
tug that keeps the richness focused. Impressive now
for sheer power, and should hold well for another 5–6
years. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $55
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St. Supéry 2009 Élu Estate Bottled Red
Wine (Napa Valley). Based on Cabernet
Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend is very rich in
chocolate, blackberry and cherry fruit. New French
oak adds notes of sweet toast and vanilla. That famous
Napa structure of tannins and acids lends elegance to
the ripeness. Drink now–2017. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $65
Two Sisters 2010 Courtney’s Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Everything
about this Chardonnay speaks of class. It’s dry and
superbly structured in acids and tannins, and shows a
chalky minerality that lends substance to the tropical
fruit and honeysuckle flavors. Two Sisters is assembling
a great track record with this bottling. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Ventisquero 2008 Pangea Apalta Vine
yard Syrah (Colchagua Valley). Among
New World Syrahs, this is an exciting, full-force wine
with potent black-fruit aromas mixed with fine wood
scents and tobacco. The palate is big but deft, with
freshness along with natural power. Flavors of earthy,
roasted berry and cassis end in a mellow, toasty,
chocolaty finish. This is Apalta Syrah at its best. Drink
now–2018. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane Vine
yard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
This fresh, softly mellow and creamy wine is utterly
captivating with bright summer red-berry and treefruit, vanilla, cherry liqueur, brown sugar and toast
flavors. Absolutely delicious now, it is a silky feast for
the senses and should easily negotiate the next 8–10
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
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Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). This is a pretty Pinot that’s light and
silky on the palate, and comforting in its moderate
alcohol and spicy, exotic flavors. It offers waves of
wild forest berry pie, baking spice, sweet-and-sour
persimmon and sandalwood flavors that are intriguingly
complex. Absolutely delightful now. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $49
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Balletto 2011 Winery Block Estate Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). With moderate
alcohol, this Pinot is silky and delicate in the mouth,
with excellent acidity. Yet it’s intense in sunshiney-ripe
raspberries and cherries, as well as a hint of mushrooms
that will become more pronounced with age. Defines
the lighter style of California Pinot, in a gracious,
elegant style. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $38
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J. Christopher 2010 Lia’s Vineyard
Unfiltered Pinot Noir (Chehalem Moun
tains). The first impression is of strawberry preserves,
not jammy but with the texture and loose-knit fruit
flavor of a fruit spread. Behind it are lip-licking veins of
licorice and cola, finishing with dusty tannins. Chehalem
dust? Don’t rule it out. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
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Kiona 2008 Cyclops (Red Mountain).
Cyclops is 80% Red Mountain Syrah, with
Grenache, Mourvèdre and some Roussanne filling out
the rest. It might have been forged in steel, as it captures
the core of metal and mineral, the stiff tannins, and the
compact, dense red and black fruits of the AVA. Bright,
tart berry fruit is underscored with light suggestions of
clean earth. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Marimar Estate 2010 La Masía Don
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). There’s a hard minerality in this
Chardonnay, like a lick of cold steel. That, plus the
acidity, balances the fine, complex tropical fruits and
green apples, as well as the butterscotch spice from oak
barrels. The result is a complex wine that’s dry and fairly
full-bodied. Drink now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
Minassian-Young 2011 White Roussanne
-Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). An
interesting wine that’s far more subtle than the price
suggests. Blended from Roussanne and Grenache
Blanc, it displays a complex balance of fresh fruits,
herbs, cashews, smoked meats and vanilla, while
remaining lively in acidity and fundamentally dry.
Easily the best white wine yet from Minassian-Young.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $16
Geoff Tate 2010 Insania Merlot-Cabernet
Sauvignon-Petit Verdot-Malbec-Cabernet
Franc (Columbia Valley). Produced by Three Rivers
for celebrity winemaker Geoff Tate, this new Insania is
a full-on Bordeaux blend, with all five red grapes in the
mix. It’s a powerful wine, with heavy metal flavors of
deep black fruits and thick tannins. Pair it with a juicy
steak or Kobe beef burger and rock on. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
Ventisquero 2008 Vertice Apalta Vineyard
(Colchagua Valley). This is a bold, fruity,
muscular blend that’s 100% New World in its darkness,
ripeness and heft. It’s earthy and full of cola and herbs
on the nose, while the palate is rugged and delivers
core blackberry, spice, coffee and herbal flavors. A dry,
ripped, peppery tasting finish is a proper ending. Drink
now–2017. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $37
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Six Sigma 2009 Reserve Tempranillo
(Lake County). Dark, robust and earthy, with
a pronounced smell and taste of caramel, this Tempra
nillo develops in lovely ways in the glass, so let it
breathe. Its earthy character hints at dust, and the wine
is soft, light and smooth. Enjoy with paella or grilled
seafood. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $42
Altaïr 2009 Sideral (Rapel Valley). After
a few years when Altaïr’s wines strayed toward
being too herbal and rustic, this is cleaner and easier
to like. It’s still showing the winery’s typical herbal-olive
aromas and flavors, but it’s smooth in the mouth, with
deep flavors of blackberry, cassis, licorice and cocoa.
A solid, earthy finish with flavors of toast, coffee and
herbs qualifies as complex. Drink now–2016. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
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Balletto 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Russian
River Valley). This is a very good price for
a Zinfandel this fine. It’s fairly delicate in mouthfeel
for a Zin, with a light silkiness, and the tannin-acid
architecture is elegant. As for the actual flavors, they’re
intense in red fruits, currants, sweet licorice and pepper.
Hard to imagine a better wine for drinking over the next
few years with barbecue. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
Clif Family 2011 Riesling (Mendocino).
Fragrant with peach aromas and wet-stone
minerality, this dry Riesling is well integrated, smooth
and refreshing. It is delicious on its own as an apéritif or
will make a mellow partner to all manner of appetizers,
especially those with seafood and a twist of heat or chili
spice. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $22
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Conn Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Rich and ripe, with Cabernet
fruit swamping the mouth with jammy blackberries,
cherries, currants and chocolate. As fruity as it is, it’s well
structured, with firm tannins and a fine edge of acidity.
Beautiful to drink now, but give it some breathing time
after opening, or decant. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Grgich Hills 2009 Carneros Selection
Estate Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This
wine is tight and citrusy now, with a kick of acidity. It’s
elegantly structured, but not showing much generosity,
despite a core of lemondrop candy, green apple and
honeysuckle flavors. Give it a few years to develop.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
J. Lohr 2010 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). This is rich, ripe and
succulent, with blackberry and black currant flavors. As
decadently fruity as it tastes, the finish is firm and dry.
There’s lots of balanced elegance in this drink-me-now
Cabernet. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
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Kenneth Volk 2011 Jaybird Unoaked
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). With
this bottling, Kenneth Volk has produced the quint
essential cool-climate, unoaked Chardonnay. The grape
variety reveals itself strongly, with classic peach and
tropical fruit flavors that are very ripe, almost apricoty.
The Santa Maria Valley’s chilly climate shows up in brisk,
mouthwatering acidity, while the finish is thoroughly
dry. Additional richness was provided by sur-lie aging,
which brings creamy notes. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
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Long Meadow Ranch 2012 Sauvignon
Blanc (Rutherford). Clean, vibrant in acidity
and ripe in fruit, with lemon and lime flavors accented
with a hit of green gooseberries. The finish is totally dry
and stimulating. The cool 2012 vintage has given this
wine elegance, making it a another value after the 2010
and 2011. —S.H.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
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J. Lohr 2009 Tower Road Petite Sirah
(Paso Robles). A really nice wine with plenty
of dark, dense fruit. It is dry and tannic, and packed with
blackberry, blueberry and meat notes that give way to
hints of violets. So yummy now, it’s hard not to pop the
cork. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
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Louis M. Martini 2010 Cabernet Sau
vignon (Alexander Valley). It’s really easy to
like now for its rich black currant, cherry and chocolate
flavors. The tannins are firm and ripe, and there’s a
lovely balance of acidity and oak. This is one of the best
Martini Alexander Valley Cabs to date. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Marilyn 2010 Meritage (Napa Valley). Very
rich and elaborate with blackberry, cherry and
cassis flavors, this wine is so tasty, it’s easy to drink glass
after glass. The tannins are firm, but soft and complex.
Made from all the classic Bordeaux varieties, it’s classy
and elegant, and will hold in the bottle for years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Nickel & Nickel 2010 Suscol Ranch Merlot
(Napa Valley). This wine is young, fruity and
tannic, in the house style. The 2010 is particularly rich
and ripe with cherries, but complex, intense and worth
repeated sipping. A very good representation of a Suscol
Merlot. Drink now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $53
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Ninquén 2009 Ninquén Mountain Vine
yard (Colchagua Valley). This Syrah-Cab
blend is an oaky specimen with no shortage of vanilla,
cream and sawdust on the nose. In the mouth, it’s quite
rich, almost to the point of being syrupy. Flavors of
blackberry, toast, vanilla and popcorn announce even
more generous oak, while the finish is warm in feel, with
baked fruit, mint and vanilla flavors. Drink now–2017.
Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Twenty Bench 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For the price, you get a
Cabernet that shows some pretty good Napa character.
It’s ripe and forward with black currants with tough
tannins and a hit of sweet oak. Lots going on, and could
even age for a few years. If you drink it now, give it a
couple hours of airing. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Pope Valley Winery 2010 Estate Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This
Cabernet needs time. It’s rich and ripe with blackberry
jam, black currants, dark chocolate and sweet, smoky
oak, but very tight and astringent in tannins. Give it at
least six years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $58
Venteux 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). This Cab is soft and lush with cherry,
red currant and anise flavors that linger long into a spicy
finish. It gains extra points for the tannin-acid structure,
which is so easy to like. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
Viña Bisquertt 2010 Ecos de Rulo Single
Vineyard El Rulo Estate Carmenère
(Colchagua Valley). Although this smells a bit flat
and earthy, cool, herbal berry aromas as well as coffee
and spice make this inviting and easy to like. A flush,
jammy palate maintains its pulse, while a mix of spicy
black fruits, licorice, espresso and chocolate flavors end
long and lightly herbal. Drink this cuddly wine sooner
rather than later. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Bernau
Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
Sourced from 30-year-old, self-rooted vines, this limited
cuvée is the best of the 2010’s from WVV. Elegant,
aromatic and well crafted throughout, it gathers itself
into a concentrated middle, with sour cherry candy
appeal. There’s good length and a tart, refreshing kick
to the finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $45
Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). There’s a fresh, lilting quality to
this Pinot, a silky airiness that feels weightless on the
palate. Doubtless that’s due to the moderate alcohol.
But there’s nothing light about the flavors, which are
complex in black raspberry pie, softened Dr. Pepper
cola, butterscotch, toast and spices. A beautiful Russian
River Pinot made for drinking now with upscale fare.
—S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $49
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Williams Selyem 2011 Unoaked Char
donnay (Russian River Valley). Tasted
in early spring, this Chard was still tingly with acidity,
but by the time you read this, everything should have
calmed down. It’s terrifically ripe with green apple,
nectarine and tropical fruit flavors that are so rich, you
won’t even miss the oak. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $37
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J. Lohr 2008 Cuvée St. E Red Wine (Paso
Robles). Just under five years in age, this
wine’s Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant profile shows
through its full-bodied mouthfeel, dense tannins and
cassis flavor. It’s a big, new-oaky wine that’s forward with
concentrated fruit through the finish. A bit of a showoff now, it should benefit from 5–6 years in the cellar.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Ghost Pines 2010 Winemaker’s Blend
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa CountySonoma County). Soft and delicious, this is for
drinking now, with a certain elegant fanciness. The
blackberry, cherry, currant and oak flavors are complex
and worth repeated sipping. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
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J. Lohr 2009 Cuvée Pom Red Wine (Paso
Robles). Very rich and flamboyantly layered,
this Merlot-based wine is ripe in cherries, red currants
and cocoa. It’s a little forward in its charms, giving easily
of itself in a fleshy, oaky way, but it sure is enjoyable.
Drink over the next six years, especially with lamb chops
or char-broiled steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
J. Lohr 2010 Los Osos Merlot (Paso
Robles). This is a beautiful red wine to drink
now for its rich, ripe flavors and overall balance. It’s
soft in acids and fine in tannins, offering heady waves
of black cherries, currants and chocolate. Easy to find,
with nearly 75,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Epicenter
Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). Sourced from one
of the older vineyards in the region, Mettler has stayed
true to Lodi’s larger Zinfandel style with Epicenter, a
wine that’s black as night with notes of dark berry, plum,
tar and brick, as well as a hint of tobacco and dark
chocolate. Layered and complex, it’s full bodied, but
retains enough acidity to taste balanced despite its oak
and ample alcohol. Enjoy with hearty fare. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $20
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Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Estate
Grown Petite Sirah (Lodi). Black in color
and super earthy with reams of smoke, this Lodi Petite
Sirah has 8% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet
Franc blended in, giving it a touch of finesse. The soft
tannins are balanced by the wine’s heft as well as the
permeating aromas and flavors of charcuterie, tobacco
and blackberry jam. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
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J. Lohr 2010 Seven Oaks Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). A polished
Cabernet from a winery that knows how to produce
super-drinkable Cabs at affordable prices. It’s stylishly
dry, with oak-infused blackberry jam, currant and
mocha flavors. Shows a deliciousness factor that makes
the price a real bargain. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Minassian-Young 2010 Tannat (Paso
Robles). This variety hails from the Madiran
region of France. The name suggests the wine’s most
pronounced feature, its tannins. They’re tough, but
sweet and ripe, and will play well now against rich
barbecue. The flavors themselves are spicy, suggesting
raspberries, black pepper and grilled meat. A good,
sound, interesting wine to try as an alternative to Syrah
or Zinfandel. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
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Vineyard El Chequén Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This is seriously
spicy on the bouquet, where a mix of earth, pepper,
herbal notes and cassis set up a stocky body with a
condensed feel and ample oak. Heavy black-fruit flavors
are hard at first but settle well, leaving mint and licorice
notes along with a dark, toasty, herbal finish. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Waterstone 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Nearing four years of age, this Pinot is delicious
to drink now. It’s mellow and silky, with just enough
acidity to give the raspberry and red currant flavors zest.
This is Waterstone’s most complete Pinot Noir in many
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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William Hill Estate 2010 Merlot (Napa
Valley). This is a lush Merlot that’s seductive
and rich. It has lovely cherry, chocolate and oak flavors.
The best thing about it is the structure, which is firm
and balanced. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Casa Rojo 2009 Fauno Organic Grapes
Garnatxa Negra (Priorat). This is a big,
modern, warm Garnacha with a lot of oak and vanilla on
the bouquet as well as blackberry and cassis. It’s jammy
on the tongue, but there’s enough acidity to keep the
pulse up. Dark black cherry, berry and rubbery flavors
are followed by end-notes of raisin, chocolate and vanilla.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Kenwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma County). This is a pretty good Cab
ernet, showing some real fanciness, with soft tannins
framing blackberry, currant, anise and herb flavors and
a touch of sweet, smoky oak. Not an ager, so drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Pope Valley Winery 2010 Eakle Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This
dry, tannic wine is astringent now, in the way of a young
Cabernet. It has a heart of ripe blackberries and currants,
and finishes dry and clean. There’s a rustic edge that
suggests drinking over the next 2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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Silverado 2012 Miller Ranch Estate
Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).
This is dry, but lushly fruity, with sour-candy pineapple,
lemon, lime and white-sugar flavors leading to a clean
finish. This bottling for Silverado has been variable over
the years, but worth checking out. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Parcel 41 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). This
is a good value for a sophisticated Merlot from
Napa Valley. It’s not an ager, but it’s delightful now for
its dryness, smooth tannins and complex cherry and
red currant flavors with hints of herbs and sweet peas.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $19
Wente 2010 Sandstone Estate Merlot
(Livermore Valley). This is a straightforward
Merlot with herbal aromatics, oaky tannins and a
layering of quiet raspberry and spice. Well priced for
the quality and food-friendly nature of this wine. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
WineMag.com | 13
buyingguide
SPIRITS
BEER
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85
Austerity 2011 Proprietary Red Wine
(California). This is an easy red blend that’s
soft and clean, with lush cherry jam, red licorice and
mocha flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Filibuster Dual Cask
Kentucky
Straight
Bourbon Whiskey (USA; MS
Trading LP, Bardstown, KY).
Aged in American oak casks,
then finished in “white-wine
seasoned French oak barrels,”
this honey-hued whiskey has
rich, powerful aromas of apricots
and butterscotch. On the palate,
surprising floral accents tran
sition into honey and rounded
stone-fruit notes, with a bit of a
tannic pucker on the finish.
abv: 45%
Price: $43
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Kirkland Signature 2010 Signature
Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville).
It’s hard to fall immediately in love with this Cabernet,
despite the fancy Oakville address, as the tannins are so
firm. But it’s dry and clean, and although the tannins are
the star—bold and astringent—there’s black fruit there,
too, to help it along. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $19
Dad’s Hat Pennsyl
vania Rye Whiskey
(USA;
Mountain
Laurel
Spirits, Bristol, PA). Going
back
to
colonial
days,
Pennsylvania had a long tradition
of distilling sweeter, more robust
Monongahela rye—also called
Pennsylvania rye. Dad’s Hat is
giving that style a resurgence.
The bright and fruity scent mixes
vanilla and tropical fruit. The
flavor also has a funky edge, like
overripe bananas and honey,
finishing with sparks of spicy ginger. Silky texture.
abv: 45%
Price: $43
BEER
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Kirkland Signature 2011 Meritage
(Rutherford). This doesn’t show any
Rutherford character; in fact, it could come from just
about anywhere. But it’s a proper Cabernet, dry and
full-bodied, with simple black-currant and oak flavors,
and the price is right. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $14
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Ayinger Bräuweisse Hefe-Weizen (Hefe
weizen; Ayinger Brewery, Germany). This
beer is a classic, showing all of the hefeweizen hallmarks:
cloudy golden color in the glass with a huge, frothy
head, gorgeous lacing and upfront aromas of wheat,
banana, yeasty spice and lemon. The body is smooth and
creamy yet clean, lifted by medium carbonation. On the
palate, flavors of wheat-bread dough and earthy spice
dominate, followed by notes of lemon peel, pepper and
clove on the finish. This is an easy-drinking selection
of moderate alcohol that’s perfect for summer sipping.
Pair it with barbecued or grilled chicken, mild cheeses
or summer salads. Merchant du Vin.
abv: 5.1%
Price: $4/500 ml
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Brasserie du Bocq Blanche de Namur
(Witbier; Du Bocq Brewery, Belgium).
This is a well-made, traditional Belgian witbier that’s
new to the Merchant du Vin portfolio, having just
launched in the U.S. this May. Named after Princess
Blanche of Namur—who married King Magnus of
Sweden in 1336 A.D.—this wit shows forward scents
of orange peel, underripe pear, coriander, clove, soft
pepper and clean wheat. Those notes follow through
on the light- to medium-bodied palate, with additional
nuances of licorice and earthy spice that linger onto the
finish. The bright carbonation and brisk citrus flavor, as
well as the low alcohol, make this a great warm-weather
selection. Merchant du Vin.
abv: 4.5%
Price: $10/750 ml
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Ayinger Urweisse Authentic Bavarian
Dark Weizen (Dunkelweizen; Ayinger
Brewery, Germany). The nose of this dunkel boasts
soft caramel and roasted malt notes, with additional
hints of raw dough, fresh banana and baking spice. The
rich mouthfeel is full-bodied and round, almost chewy,
with intense wheat and yeast flavors that are lifted by
medium carbonation. The finish is clean and refreshing.
Overall, this is well balanced, flavorful and remarkably
accessible. Merchant du Vin.
abv: 5.8%
Price: $4/500 ml
91
Samuel Adams Boston
Lager (Vienna-style Lager;
The Boston Beer Co., MA). This is a
classic that will never go out of style, so
clean yet flavorful. A golden-amber color with a frothy off-white head, this
boasts upfront aromas of earthy, floral
hops that mingle seamlessly with notes
of caramel malt and sweer orange citrus.
Resiny hop characteristics add depth to
the palate, with additional accents of
roasted malt and caramel sauce. The finish is smooth and dry, with a touch of
bitterness. Pair with grilled salmon or strip steak.
abv: 4.9%
Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
best buys
90
Wente 2011 Louis Mel Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Livermore Valley). Wente remains
remarkably adept at making very good wines in big
volumes at fair prices. This is a textbook example—a
crisp, layered and complex SB that’s as floral as spring,
generous in acidity and lemony on the finish. Pair with
shellfish, chicken or goat cheese on crackers. Best Buy.
—V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
89
Bogle 2010 Essential Red (California).
This wine is sensationally rich and ripe with wild
cherry, mocha, anise and tobacco flavors, with a long,
spicy finish. It really impresses for sheer deliciousness.
The blend is Zinfandel, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Petite Sirah. It’s easy to find, with production an
incredible 125,000 cases. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
89
Three Rivers 2011 River’s Red Wine
(Columbia Valley). A very fine edition of
River’s Red, this returns Merlot to the first chair (55%)
position, with Syrah and Cab Franc splitting the rest.
Sturdy, chewy, bone dry, tannic and authoritative, it’s a
quintessential steak wine. Cassis, earth, hints of dried
mushroom and those stiff but powerful tannins combine
to make this a standout at the price. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $14
best buys
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Wente 2011 Morning Fog Estate Char
donnay (Livermore Valley). A great value
from Wente, this is a layered, bright and intensely
lemon-tinged Chardonnay, worth stocking up for simple
dinners and get togethers where you know a lot of
people will want to drink white. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Vicente Gandia 2010 El Miracle by
Mariscal Old Vine Garnacha (Valencia).
After a slightly mossy bouquet, this unfolds in broad,
chunky style. It offers good balance and mouthfeel, with
lightly herbal flavors of dark berry fruits, tobacco and
leather. A mildly herbal-tasting finish is plump and solid
in feel. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Courtney Benham 2011 Lucca Red Wine
(North Coast). A nicely balanced red blend,
this is high toned with smooth tannins and dark cherry
and plum flavors amid a twist of black licorice. A fine
wine for a crowd or easy mid-week drinking. Best Buy.
—V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
best buys
86
Orion Wine 2011 È 100 Per Cento
(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here’s a great
deal for a soft, plush and easy-drinking Italian red that
would pair with lasagna or fettuccine with meat ragù.
You will detect fresh notes of blackberry and blueberry
as well as dried aromas of cassis and candied raspberry.
Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
85
Cavit 2011 Collection Oak Zero Char
donnay (Trentino). This Italian Chardonnay
shows ripe tones of melon, peach and ripe tangerine.
It feels easy and soft in the mouth and shows subtle
fragrances of white mountain flower as well. Palm Bay
International. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
85
Kirkland Signature 2010 Old Vine Zin
fandel (Sonoma County). It’s all about
simple, jammy cherry and blackberry, brown sugar and
sweet oak flavors for this Zin. But it has a wonderful
tannin-acid structure, making it a sophisticated barbecue
wine. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $10
WineMag.com | 15
buyingguide
best buys
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Lynmar 2011 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is the most broadly appealing
Chardonnay of Lynmar’s wonderful 2011 offering. It
makes all the right moves, with fine acidity and a hint of
minerals giving structure to the tropical fruit, buttered
toast and spice flavors. It’s the kind of wine that makes
Chard lovers smile. Best of all, it costs considerably less
than the winery’s other Chards and is nearly as good.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
91
Marimar Estate 2010 La Masía Don
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
85
StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Char
donnay (Columbia Valley). This wine
is slightly spritzy and sugary, with simple yet clean
apple flavors. The finish is sweet, quick and pleasantly
quaffable. Best to chill it down before drinking. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
90
Grgich Hills 2009 Carneros Selection Estate Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
corrections
In the May 2013 issue, the review for the Pence Ranch
2010 Westslope Pinot Noir incorrectly identified the
vineyard location as Sta. Rita Hills; the correct location
is Santa Barbara County.
Kenneth Volk 2009 Santa Maria Cuvee
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). A few
years of bottle age have softened and mellowed this
Chard, making it very nice for drinking now. It has lovely orange, Asian pear and mango flavors, with just the
right touch of oak, and a rich, creamy mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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Lucia 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia
Highlands). This has the look and feel of a
fine white Burgundy, with expressive acidity, pinpointed
oak, rich creaminess and a certain stony minerality. Yet
the fruit is pure California, tropical and succulent. The
wine is from the Pisoni family. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
90
Talbott 2011 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Another fine Chardonnay from this producer. It’s typical
of the vineyard, showing intensely concentrated tropical and citrus fruit and green apple flavors, enhanced
with mouthwatering acidity. Vertical tastings of this bottling show its ability to slowly evolve in the bottle over
as much as eight years. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
90
Williams Selyem 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 12.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $37
89
Failla 2011 Haynes Vineyard Chardonnay (Coombsville). Failla reaches into this
new appellation within Napa Valley for this vineyarddesignated Chard. It’s a little heavier and softer than the
Chardonnays from Sonoma County usually associated
with the winery. Very rich in tropical fruits and pears,
while the oak is lavish in vanilla and buttered toast.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $58
89
Kenneth Volk 2011 Jaybird Unoaked
Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). For full
review see page 10.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
90
90
StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Syrah
(Columbia Valley). This has a strong start
with aromas of black fruits and licorice. It’s rather light
in color, with fruit flavors of ripe raspberry and a little
funk in the finish. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Flora Springs 2011 Barrel Fermented
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This wine
shows the hand of the winemaker in the buttered toast,
vanilla, crème brulée, honey and creamy lees that dominate the palate. The underlying fruit is a little thin, suggesting tangerines and papayas. The price-quality ratio
is fair. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
Balletto 2011 Teresa’s Unoaked Estate
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Very
ripe and fruity, offering wave after wave of pineapple,
orange, mango, peach, green apple and vanilla. Tastes
honeyed and ripe in fruity essence, but fundamentally this is a dry wine. Brilliant acidity helps to provide a
clean balance. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $20
Longoria 2011 Rita’s Crown Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). New oak
dominates this Chardonnay, along with brisk acidity. Beneath the buttered toast and butterscotch are intensely
concentrated tropical fruit flavors. The wine is a little
linear now, possibly because the vines are quite young.
Give it 2–3 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
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Calera 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast).
Made in a more popular style than Calera’s Mt.
Harlan bottling, this Chard features lush flavors of pineapple and orange jam, honey and vanilla. The acidity is
bright and mouthwatering. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $18
88
Davis Bynum 2011 River West Vineyard
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Winemaker Greg Morthole plays all the bells and whistles on
this Burgundian-style Chardonnay. Barrel fermentation
brings toast and sweet vanilla to the tropical fruit and
green apple flavors, while the full malolactic fermentation adds notes of buttered popcorn. The acidity is racy
and clean. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
88
Hideaway Creek 2008 Chardonnay
(Carneros). This bottling is showing its age,
with the fruit character picking up a hazelnut, brown
butter, honey and mushroom character. A very interesting wine, and worth the price to see how a proper Chardonnay ages. Drink over the next year or two before it
falls apart. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $19
88
La Crema 2011 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Attractive for its rich creaminess, this Chard aims for the popular style and succeeds. It’s soft and rich in orange, peach, apricot and
mango fruit, with sweet-oak overtones of vanilla and
buttered toast. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
88
Lynmar 2012 Laguna Ridge Chardonnay
(Sonoma County). Lynmar has released this,
the first of their 2012 Chardonnays, early, in order to let
the fruit star. It’s flashy, like a conga line of pineapples,
oranges, mangoes, limes and papayas. Tasty, direct and
appealing, it would be amazing with bacon-wrapped
shrimp. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
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Lynmar 2011 Monastery Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). This is one of Lynmar’s most expensive Chardonnays, of their six 2011s.
It’s also one of the most forward and oakiest. Your first
impression is of sweet buttered toast, sprinkled with
brown sugar and drizzled with melted butterscotch.
Then the tropical fruits kick in, brightened with citrusy
acids. It’s an impressive feat, but the wine feels overworked, and lacks the sustaining interest of Lynmar’s
other bottlings. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $70
overly complicated. With some texture and just enough
heft, have it mid-week with lemony chicken. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
87
McFadden Vineyard 2011 Chardonnay
(Potter Valley). This McFadden Chardonnay
is temptingly priced. A value in its offerings of honey
and apple, it’s medium in weight but crisp, bright and
clean in profile. On the finish, apple turns to lemon—always a nice touch when accompanying food, from seafood to chicken to pasta. —V.B.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $16
86
Silver Buckle 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi). A
full-bodied yet crisp Chardonnay, balanced with
just a tiny hint of lingering ripeness. Fine for mid-week
meals. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
86
Stomping Girl 2011 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). Sweet vanilla, white sugar and orange jam flavors mark this Chardonnay. It has
excellent acidity, and some stony, minerally notes. Despite the esteemed vineyard source, it’s too oaky, and
lacking in subtlety. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $40
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Talbott 2011 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
Logan Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is sort of a junior version of Talbott’s more
expensive Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay. It resembles it
in many ways, offering concentrated tropical and citrus
fruit flavors, highlighted by brisk acidity and wrapped
into a creamy texture. —S.H.
Price: $24
abv: 14.3%
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85
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Mayacamas 2010 Chardonnay (Mount
Veeder). Lean, dry and minerally, with tart flavors of grapefruit, lemon peel and Asian pear. The acidity is refreshingly crisp. This is a bottling that rarely does
well in blind tastings because it’s so austere. But it is
elegant. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
Wente 2011 Morning Fog Estate Chardonnay (Livermore Valley). For full review
see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Balletto 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of ripe fruit
in this rich Chardonnay. It brims with apricots, peaches, mangoes and limes, brightened with crisp acidity
and enhanced with the buttered toast of oak. Drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24
87
Longoria 2011 Cuvée Diana Chardonnay
(Sta. Rita Hills). A good, rich Chardonnay, but
a little heavy, with creamy lees and oak dominating the
citrus and tropical fruits. Still, the wine shows the clean
elegance that Longoria wines always display. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 13.7%
87
Luli 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Zippy, mouthwatering acidity and honeyed flavors of pineapple and lemondrop give this Chardonnay a sweet-and-sour taste, like a Lifesaver candy.
Shows its California origins in every sip of sunny fruit.
Nice to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
87
Manzoni 2011 North Highlands’ Cuvée
Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Ripe and oaky, this will appeal to those who love their
Chards voluptuous. It’s strong in buttered toast, caramelized wood, sweet-and-sour pineapple candy and lemondrop flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
87
Matchbook 2011 Old Head Chardonnay
(Dunnigan Hills). A great value Chardonnay,
full of big green apple flavor, that’s well-made and not
Parducci 2011 Small Lot Blend Chardonnay (Mendocino County). A lush, crisp
Chardonnay from a cool-ish vintage that tastes most
specifically of green apple with a tropical twist on the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2011 KARIA
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This big-production wine from Stag’s Leap hits all the popular Chardonnay buttons. It’s soft and sweet, with orange and
pineapple jam, buttercream, vanilla and toast flavors,
brightened by crisp acidity. The grapes come from the
cooler, southern parts of the valley. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 13.5%
Talbott 2011 Kali Hart Chardonnay (Monterey). Sweetly fruity and brisk in acidity, this
Chardonnay shows savory pineapple, orange and mango
flavors that taste like an upscale fruit-juice drink. Oak
gives it a toasty, buttery note, while the alcohol brings
warmth and full-bodiedness. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $20
Broadway Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown
Chardonnay (Carneros). Tasty in the modern style, with ripe, forward pineapple, orange, peach
jam and buttered toast flavors. There’s good acidity, and
even a hint of minerals, but the wine ultimately is lushly
one-dimensional. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
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Capture 2011 Ma Vie Carol Chardonnay
(Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak). This
ambitious winery continues to struggle to find the formula for pricy Chardonnay. They turn now to this new
Sonoma County appellation, but the result is still pretty
ordinary. The wine is all about buttered toast, popcorn
and fruit jam, with a creamy texture that’s universally
appealing. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
86
Jacella 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros).
Simple and satisfying with lots of ripe pineapple
jam, orange sorbet, caramel, buttered toast, honey and
cinnamon spices, in a creamy texture. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
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Pure Cru 2010 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Sweet vanilla, buttered toast and caramel
dominate this Chardonnay. It does have some peach
and tropical fruit flavors, and is nicely smooth and
creamy, but the oak stands out. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $32
85
Bernardus 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey
County). Satisfies the Chardonnay sweet
tooth, with vanilla, buttered toast and jammy apricot,
orange, lime and honey flavors. There’s good Central
Coast acidity for balance. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
85
Camp 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Shows plenty of Chardonnay character,
with ripe tropical fruit, peach, buttered toast and vanilla
flavors, and a creamy texture. Nothing complicated or
fancy going on, just a slightly ripe wine that many Chard
fans will like. —S.H.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
Foley 2010 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills).
Shows good Chardonnay character, with pleasant citrus and tropical fruit, buttered toast and vanilla
flavors. The acidity is fine, but it’s watery, lacking depth
and fullness. Disappointing from this producer. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
Roche 2012 Stainless Steel Fermented
Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). A simple
Chardonnay, it has strong acidity and equally strong vanilla, peach and orange flavors. There’s even a hint of
buttercream. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
85
Six Degrees 2011 Chardonnay (California). A useful, all-purpose Chardonnay for parties. Gets the job done with a creamy texture and hints
of vanilla, buttered toast, Asian pears and green apples.
—S.H.
Price: $14
abv: 13.5%
85
Wood Family Vineyards 2011 Para Mas
Amigas Chardonnay (Livermore Valley).
An oaky, full-bodied, warm-climate Chardonnay with
long lingering flavors of vanilla and coconut, as well as
ripe apple crisp. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
84
Bridlewood 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey
County). A Chardonnay at a decent price for
what you get. It’s sweet and creamy, with buttered toast,
pineapple and peach fruit flavors that are accented with
brisk acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Grove Ridge 2011 Chardonnay (California). Chardonnays of this caliber are very pricesensitive, but for $10 or less, this is a good value. It’s like
a photocopy of a truly rich Chardonnay, but all the parts
WineMag.com | 17
buyingguide
are there, making this Chard good for everyday drinking. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Hess Select 2011 Chardonnay (Monterey
County). Fairly simple Chardonnay, with
toned-down fruit, cream, sweet buttered toast and vanilla flavors. The price is fair for what you get. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Ideology Cellars 2011 Blondie Chardonnay (Napa Valley). This Chardonnay’s tropical and citrus fruit flavors are dripping with honey richness. There’s also a lot of buttered toast and vanilla. Will
appeal to all those Chard lovers out there who like ripe,
lush wines. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $19
84
Kirkland Signature 2011 Chardonnay
(California). Sweet and oaky, with buttered
toast, tangerine and apricot jam flavors. A simple and
easy Chardonnay, in the modern style. —S.H.
Price: $8/1.5 L
abv: 13.5%
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MAD Wines 2010 24.4 Brix Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Bright in acidity,
which gives it a mouthwatering vitality. It’s also a little
ripe with Meyer lemon fruit. The result is sweet-andsour, with the finish turning sugary. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
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Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Chardonnay
(Santa Barbara County). Pretty standard
Chardonnay, with fruity, oaky flavors that are diluted,
and a creamy texture. The finish is nice and dry and the
acidity is balanced. It’s alright for the price. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $16
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Stemmler 2011 Chardonnay (Carneros). This simple wine tastes overly oaked, with
woody notes overwhelming diluted citrus, tropical fruit
and lees flavors. The acidity is great. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $24
84
Tangley Oaks 2010 Lot #7 Chardonnay
(Sonoma Coast). Gets the Chardonnay job
done effectively, offering flavors of orange, papaya, buttered toast, caramel, cream and vanilla honey. Pretty
simple, but the price is right for what you get. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
83
Green Truck 2011 Chardonnay (Mendocino County). A very simple Chardonnay
with sour apple flavor. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
82
GEN 7 2009 Reserve Chardonnay (Santa
Barbara County). Tastes and feels too buttery
to earn a better score, with awkward flavors of apricots
and lemon peel. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
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Materra 2011 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll).
Soft and dull, with green pea, peach jam and
buttered toast flavors that finish a little sugary. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
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Truett Hurst 2011 Eden Ridge, Barrel Select Chardonnay (Mendocino County).
Simple and tasting of vanilla toffee, this Chardonnay,
value-priced for sure, has a finish that’s puckeringly
sweet. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $11
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Harlow Ridge 2011 Chardonnay (Lodi).
This bargain-priced wine is oaky and bland,
with a smell of menthol. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
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Rochioli 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). This Sauvignon Blanc impresses
for subtle elegance. It’s not the biggest or the fruitiest,
doesn’t dazzle with richness, and doesn’t club you over
the head with oak. Instead, it offers dryness, crisp acidity and tart green apple, lemongrass, cream and vanilla
flavors. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
90
Long Meadow Ranch 2012 Sauvignon
Blanc (Rutherford). For full review see page
10.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
90
Wente 2011 Louis Mel Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Livermore Valley). For full review
see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Merriam 2012 Willowside Sauvignon
Blanc (Russian River Valley). Intensely
fruity and ripe, with a fine edge of acidity and minerals.
The orange, honey and nectarine flavors have a savory
tang of gooseberry. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
Silverado 2012 Miller Ranch Estate
Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
Six Sigma 2012 Asbill Valley Sauvignon
Blanc (Lake County). A textured and layered
Lake County SB that’s rich, but savory in style. With a
big mouthfeel and tropical taste, pair with richer fare,
like crab or lobster in butter. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
87
Voss 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). You’ll find plenty of tart green gooseberries in this dry Sauvignon Blanc. Yet there are also ripe
grapefruit, kiwi and papaya flavors. It’s a refreshingly
clean wine for drinking now. —S.H.
Price: $21
abv: 12%
86
Round Pond 2012 Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Rutherford). Round Pond’s track record with Sauvignon Blanc is pretty consistent. The
wine is rarely great—almost never bad–but frequently
satisfactory. The 2012 is one of their better efforts—a
little ripe in profile—but clean and savory. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Marilyn Sauvignon Blonde 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). A wisp of a
wine, like Marilyn in her All About Eve years, before
the buxom bravado kicked in. Clean, light in color, with
an inviting floral aroma, this gentle wine is dry and delicious. Pair with shellfish and think of the star’s more innocent years. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
Alta Maria 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Santa
Barbara County). Fresh as a daisy, with green
grass, lemon, lime and peach flavors that taste like they
were just picked under the summer sun. Juicy acidity
gets the mouth watering. The alcohol is modest, giving
the wine a light delicacy. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Envy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Envy has a very consistent track record
with this bottling. The 2011 is typical of the house style,
off-dry and honeyed, with pleasant citrus and grass flavors that veer into riper tropical fruits. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Mayacamas 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Mount Veeder). Tastes like the grapes really
struggled to get ripe in this chilly vintage. The wine is
bone dry and tantalizing in acidity, with green flavors
of chlorophyll and gooseberry that just manage to veer
into Meyer lemons. Difficult on its own, but gains a
few points for elegance and a clean, steely minerality.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Star Lane Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon
Blanc (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara).
Elegant, dryish to off-dry and crisp in acidity, this Sauvignon Blanc has forward flavors of gooseberries, limes,
white sugar and vanilla. It’s clean and fine to drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
Kenwood 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma County). Nice and clean, but the sweetness makes it almost a dessert wine. The sugary orange
and peach flavors are balanced with good acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Luli 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Central
Coast). Don’t look for sunny California fruit in
this wine. It’s barely ripe, with green, gooseberry flavors
barely breaking into nectarines. The aroma is marked
by pyrazines, which give the wine a feline note. The finish is dry and tart in acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
84
Materra 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Oak
Knoll). There’s fine acidity and classic citrus,
peach and gooseberry flavors in this Sauvignon Blanc.
It’s a lovely wine, but it does finishes with a sugary feel.
—S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $18
84
Merriam 2012 Danielle Estate Sauvignon
Blanc (Russian River Valley). This Sauvignon Blancs boasts a great big hit of green gooseberry
but tinged with ammonia. It’s dry and zippy in acidi-
ty, with enough citrus and vanilla to keep it balanced.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
and crisp, making it a nice wine for summer picnics, at
a good price. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $15
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Pedroncelli 2012 East Side Vineyards
Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). This
is a soft white wine with sugary flavors of lemon, orange,
date, nougat and vanilla candy bar. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $14
81
Green Truck 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake
County). A Lake County SB with very little in
the way of aromatics. It’s acceptable for everyday, but a
generic white wine. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
albariño
92
Marimar Estate 2011 Don Miguel Vineyard Albariño (Russian River Valley). For
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
90
Kenneth Volk 2011 Riverbench Vineyard
Albariño (Santa Maria Valley). One of the
fuller-bodied Albariños out there, this bottling, from
veteran winemaker Volk, is dense in cream, tangerine,
Meyer lemon, hazelnut and spice flavors. It’s a complex
wine that changes in interesting ways as it warms up in
the glass. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
90
Longoria 2012 Albariño (Santa Ynez Valley). Over the years, Longoria has proven itself
to be one of the best producers of Albariño in California. The 2012 bottling doesn’t disappoint. In its dryness,
crisp acidity, sleek flavors and modest alcohol level, it
defines the grape variety’s possibilities in the Golden
State. The wine never saw oak. What you get are savory
lemongrass and grapefruit flavors, with hints of honey
and nectarines. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
pinot gris/grigio
91
Longoria 2012 Pinot Grigio (Santa Barbara County). Longoria brings a deft touch to
this Pinot Grigio. The grapes were briefly fermented in
tank, then bottled when the wine was only about four
months old. The result is exceptionally fresh and lively,
with tangy acidity brightening citrus, lemongrass, vanilla and white pepper flavors. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
87
Balletto 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Russian
River Valley). There’s lots of zesty acidity in
this wine. Reviewed in March, it still had a spritz on the
palate, although by the time of general release it should
mellow out. It will still be a zingy wine, clean and almost dry with orange, peach, mango and honeysuckle
flavors. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 13.8%
85
Sonoma Oaks 2012 Pinot Gris (Sonoma
County). A little on the sweet side, with sugary green apple, orange and pineapple flavors. It’s clean
Woodbridge by Robert Mondavi 2012 Pinot Grigio (California). A useful wine, made
in the lush, mellow way that many Americans like their
Pinot Grigio. It’s clean in acidity, with pleasant citrus,
tropical fruit, green grass and vanilla flavors. Best Buy.
—S.H.
abv: 12%
Price: $8
riesling
86
Pure Cru 2010 Purety (Napa Valley).
Blended almost equally with Sauvignon Blanc
and Semillon, and aged in French oak, this white Bordeaux-style wine has plenty to like. It’s ripe in Meyer
lemons, limes, tropical fruits and peaches, brightened
with crisp acidity. Finishes a little lush and ripe. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Austerity 2011 White (California). Whatever the varieties are on this wine, and it’s not
disclosed, it’s soft, ripe and simple, with orange, peach
and lime flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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other white wines
Clif Family 2011 Riesling (Mendocino).
abv: 13.2%
Price: $22
Gustafson Family 2012 Heritage Tree
Vineyard Estate Riesling (Dry Creek Valley). There’s not a lot of Riesling growing in this warmish appellation of Sonoma County, which is normally
Zinfandel country. But this is a very nice wine. It’s offdry, with a sugary edge to the lemondrop, nectarine, apple and honeysuckle flavors. The acidity is bright and
tart, giving the fruit needed bite. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Scratch 2011 Riesling (Arroyo Seco). Unmistakably Riesling from the petrol notes that
dominates. The winemaker calls it off-dry, but it tastes
dry in citrus, white flower and mineral notes, probably
due to the high acidity. Refreshingly low in alcohol.
—S.H.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $25
white blends
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Clos Solene 2011 L’Or Blanc ViognierRoussanne (Paso Robles). This is a gorgeous wine that’s fat and smooth in nectarines, tangerine, custard and tropical fruits, with a kiss of sweet,
smoky oak. The two varieties were co-fermented in this
very happy marriage of a wine. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $65/375 ml
91
Minassian-Young 2011 White Roussanne
-Grenache Blanc (Paso Robles). For full
review see page 9. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $16
89
Adelaida 2011 Version The Glenrose
Vineyard (Paso Robles). Adelaida’s Roussanne-Grenache blend can vary from vintage to vintage,
but the cool 2011 has resulted in a successful bottling.
The wine is full-bodied and dry, with rich flavors of
fruits and berries. The oak is upfront, but fully in balance, giving the wine a touch of butterscotch. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
88
Amador Foothill Winery 2012 Sauvignon
Blanc-Semillon (Shenandoah Valley).
With a touch of gooseberry and apricot, Amador Foothill’s 75% Sauvignon Blanc-25% Semillon blend is clean
and easy, with a touch of earthy oak on the finish. A
great value for spring and summertime sipping. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
Pedroncelli 2012 friends.white (Sonoma
County). Soft, rich and simple, with flavors of
lemondrop candy and vanilla. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
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Clos Solene 2011 Essence de Roussanne Roussanne (Paso Robles). This is
an elaborate wine that’s dense, complex and immensely enjoyable. It has a fleshy, meaty quality, like a buttery veal piccata, alongside ripe white and yellow fruits.
There’s a firm, minerally quality, highlighted by crisp
acidity, and the finish is bone dry. Gets more interesting
as it warms up in the glass. One of the best examples of
Roussanne out there. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $65
90
Calera 2011 Viognier (Mt. Harlan). The
cool 2011 vintage was kind to Calera’s Viognier, helping to rein in the fruit which sometimes can be
overwhelming. You still get plenty of tropical fruit and
honeysuckle flavor, but it’s just part of a package that
also includes acidity, oak and minerals. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
90
Uvaggio 2012 Secco Moscato Giallo (Lodi). Stainless-steel fermented from
100-percent Lodi-grown Moscato Giallo grapes, Uvaggio’s yearly dry Moscato is always a good value and great
tasting. This one is layered with spice, but it’s also very
floral with a gentle imprint and a taste of ginger and
lime. Best Buy. —V.B.
Price: $14
abv: 13%
90
Von Strasser 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Diamond Mountain). A very rich wine that’s
densely packed with tropical fruit, citrus, peach, vanilla and spice flavors, yet surprisingly light on its feet.
There’s a real kick of zesty acidity, and the finish is clean
and ripe with fruit. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
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Ampelos 2012 Phi Viognier (Santa Ynez
Valley). One of the more controlled, tighter
Viogniers out there, without showing the variety’s rich
flamboyance. It could be a Pinot Gris, with brisk acidity and a clean, cold, steely mouthfeel, except that the
citrus fruits do have rich suggestions of mangoes. Still,
it shows tremendous elegance and will be delicious in
many settings. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25
WineMag.com | 19
buyingguide
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Balletto 2010 Estate Gewürztraminer
(Russian River Valley). Good acidity in this
Gewürz, with spice, orange and wildflower flavors that
finish clean and off-dry. With moderate alcohol, it’s easy
to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $18
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Calera 2011 Aligoté (Mt. Harlan). This
wine is a little short and abupt on the finish. It’s
very similar to a minor Chardonnay, with buttercream,
vanilla and tropical and citrus fruits. The acidity is quite
brisk, like a squirt of lime. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
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Sorelle Winery 2012 Sogno Dolce Muscat Canelli (Lodi). Sweet with 30 g/L of residual sugar, Sorelle’s Muscat Canelli is light on its feet,
and easy to enjoy in a picnic setting or leisurely coast
through the California Delta through Lodi. At only 12.2
percent alcohol, it’ll make you happy without a headache. —V.B.
Price: $18
abv: 12.2%
85
Alexander Valley Vineyards 2012 Gewürz
(Mendocino County). Cold-fermented entirely in stainless steel with no oak aging, this Mendocino County Gewürztraminer is waxy and fully aromatic
with roses and a spicy sharpness. With a nice peach finish, it would be great served cold with Thai food. —V.B.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $12
sparkling wines
94
VML 2007 Blanc de Noir (Russian River
Valley). VML is one of the newest wineries in
Sonoma County. They took over the site previously occupied by Belvedere, in the heart of the Middle Reach
of the Russian River. High ambitions have been realized with this beautiful bubbly. It’s really an exceptional
wine—richly textured and creamy—with hints of strawberries, lees, toast and vanilla, and none of the coarseness that can characterize lesser sparkling wines. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
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Pope Valley Winery 2010 Blanc de Blancs
(Napa Valley). The orange, vanilla and cream
flavors are tasty, but the texture is scoury and harsh in
the mouth, with rough bubbles that cut with acidity.
—S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $30
rosés
92
La Grande Côte 2011 L’Estate Rosé
(Paso Robles). This is one of the best rosés
on the market. With a pretty orange and copper color,
the wine is dry, crisp and deeply flavored in fruits, yet
feels delicate and subtle. The blend is Mourvèdre, Syrah and Grenache. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
92
Minassian-Young
2011
Grenache-
Cinsault Rosé (Paso Robles). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $16
90
Luli 2012 Rosé (Central Coast). This is
an unusual blend of Grenache and Pinot Noir,
which are not often combined, neither in California nor
in France. The winemaker is Jess Pisoni, and he has
crafted a highly likeable blush. Pale in color and delicate in the mouth, it has ever-so-slightly lush flavors of
orange tea, peaches and vanilla. The acidity is wonderful. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
90
Lynmar 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This darkly-colored wine
is a little on the heavy, fruity side for a rosé. But it’s fantastically delicious, offering waves of berries, cola and
spices. The acidity is refreshingly high. You can drink
this instead of a red wine with lighter meats, such as
lamb or pork. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
ripe, suggesting strawberries. A great summer wine that
will pair well with lots of slightly sweet foods. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $18
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Lucy 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Crisp acidity makes this blush
wine clean and vibrant. You’ll find strawberry, vanilla,
thyme and cinnamon spice flavors that finish ripe and
lush. It’s a fine wine, delicately structured, and fairly
priced. From Pisoni. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
86
Sobon Estate 2012 ReZerve Rosé (Amador County). Sobon’s dry rosé (made from
96% Grenache grapes and 4% Syrah) is pinkish-red
in color, brisk and structured with acidity, and a great,
great value to boot. Drink on its own—plenty chilled—
or find some fresh seafood and enjoy. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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Lynmar 2012 Rosé of Syrah (Russian
River Valley). Great price for a blush wine this
sophisticated. Lynmar manages to tame Syrah’s power
and exuberance into elegant sleekness, resulting in a
dry, tart wine with vibrant raspberry, orange zest and
vanilla richness. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Price: $20
abv: 12.8%
Sorelle Winery 2012 Bella E Rosa Rosé
(Lodi). Perfectly salmon pink in color, this
blend of half-Sangiovese, half-Barbera, is light and refreshing, with bright flavors of watermelon, cherry and
mint. Just the tiniest bit ripe, yet finishing dry, it’s long
lasting and satisfying, a good call for a summer’s day.
—V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Gustafson Family 2012 Heritage Tree
Vineyard Estate Rosé of Syrah (Dry
Creek Valley). Front-loaded with cherries, watermelons and pomegranates, with hints of violets, vanilla and
spices, this is one of the richer, more full-bodied blush
wines out there. Great picnic or beach wine. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $20
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Pedroncelli 2012 Dry Rosé of Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). Lots of lusciousness in
this blush Zin. It may be technically dry, like the label
says, but there’s a lush fruitiness to the strawberry, watermelon, vanilla and spice flavors. What a great summer brunch wine this is. Best Buy. —S.H.
Price: $12
abv: 13.9%
88
Xurus 2010 Sonatina Vineyard Rosé
(Lake County). Made from Cabernet Sauvignon, this wine is dark reddish-pink and unusual in its
unadulterated cassis flavor and suggestion of charcuterie. Intense and slightly smoky, it’s an interesting example of how Cabernet can be tamed to a rosé. It would
pair interestingly with a cold steak salad. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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J. Lohr 2011 Gesture Grenache Rosé
(Paso Robles). This is a charming wine–gentle and silky and soft. The pink "eye of the partridge"
color is especially pretty. The flavors are a fruity and
Muscardini 2012 Alice’s Vineyards Rosato (Sonoma Valley). There’s a pretty pink
"eye of the partridge" color on this blush wine. Brisk
acidity makes the finish clean and minerally. The strawberry and vanilla flavors finish just slightly off dry.
—S.H.
Price: $22
abv: 12.9%
Burt Street Cellars 2011 Rosé (Sonoma
Coast). This wine is ripe and simple, with jammy raspberry and cherry flavors, but it’s clean and vibrant in acidity. The blend is Pinot Noir, Syrah and Grenache. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Matchbook 2012 Estate Bottled Rosé
(Dunnigan Hills). A rosé of Tempranillo, with
Syrah and Malbec blended in, Matchbook always offers
good value on its wines, with this one basic and simple
in its ripe raspberry and jasmine qualities. Drink cold.
—V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $12
84
Merriam 2012 Rosé (Sonoma County).
Dark for a rosé, and jammy, with the pink bubblegum and strawberry flavors and acidity remniscent
of a mainstream Beaujolais. Drink up at picnics, on the
beach or at Sunday brunch. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
84
Merriam 2012 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Overtly ripe with jellied
raspberry and strawberry flavors. Smoky-sweet meats,
such as ham or sausages, will pair well. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
84
Vinum 2012 Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon may be
the hardest variety to make a rosé from because it yields
such a big wine. Vinum tries their best, but despite good
fruit and acidity, the wine is heavy, lacking the racy vivacity a great blush wine should have. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
dessert wines
88
Lynmar 2011 Divinity Late Harvest Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This sugary-sweet dessert Chardonnay tries hard to please, offering waves of honey, tangerine, mango and vanilla flavors. It’s tantalizingly delicious, but could be just a tad
more concentrated, especially at this price. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $50/375 ml
89
Balletto 2009 Vin de Paille Estate Pinot
Gris (Russian River Valley). Incredibly rich
and sweet with honey, apricot and orange flavors, this
intense dessert wine is balanced with citrusy acidity.
It’s super-delicious, long and gooey sweet on the finish.
—S.H.
abv: 10.8%
Price: $65/375 ml
california
red wines
pinot noir
96
Williams Selyem 2011 Terra de Promissio Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
95
Failla 2011 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lucky Failla gets to source
grapes from this vineyard that most winemakers would
trade their left arm for. It’s lush, ripe and amazingly generous in raspberries and cherries, yet retains an elegant
balance, as well as fine, mouthwatering acidity. Part of
the attraction is low alcohol, which lets the stones and
earthy complexities of the wine shine through. This is
really a brilliant wine—light, delicate and powerful. If
you want to age it for eight years or so, you won’t be
sorry. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
of singular focus and discernment. Drink now–2020.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
94
Gary Farrell 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
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Stemmler 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
(Carneros). This very interesting wine treads
a delicate balance between exuberantly ripe persimmons and cherries, and earthier notes of red tomatoes.
But those tomatoes are rich and satisfying, like summer heirloom varieties picked fresh off the vine that are
sweet as a peaches. Veteran Stemmler, who can usually be depended on to turn out serious Pinot Noir, has
succeeded here, giving us a delicious wine for drinking
now, but one whose balance should protect it for 6–8
years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
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Calera 2010 Jensen Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Mt. Harlan). There’s a delicacy to this Pinot
that makes it a welcome alternative to the big, clumsy
style. The color is translucent, and the alcohol is relatively low, giving it a nice, bouncy mouthfeel. The depth
of flavor is impressive, suggesting ripe forest raspberries and cherries, and a hint of mushrooms. It would
be a pity to drink this wine before 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
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with sweet oak, with a silky texture and a long, spicy finish. Kudos to winemaker Ed Kurtzman for bringing it
all together. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
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August West 2011 Graham Family Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A
gorgeous wine that shows delicate silkiness and complexity, with a light, airy mouthfeel. Yet it’s enormously
rich and concentrated in raspberries and cherries. Crisp
acidity makes for a clean finish, making this Pinot worth
repeated sipping. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $45
92
Balletto 2011 Burnside Road Vineyard
Estate Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $42
92
Balletto 2011 Estate Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection.
Price: $29
abv: 13.7%
92
Calera 2010 Mills Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Mt. Harlan). This is delicious now for its raspberry and cherry sweetness, accented with smoky oak
and brightened by crisp acidity. It shows the elegance
that Calera Pinots are known for. It’s complex enough to
offer lots of pleasure, but you may want to age it for 6–8
years to let it mellow. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $48
92
Gary Farrell 2010 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review
see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $65
Calera 2010 Reed Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan).
As usual, this is one of Calera’s lightest bottlings,
in both color and texture. It’s deceptively simple, showing softened cola and raspberry jam flavors that finish
impressively long and spicy. It would be a mistake to
dismiss it for early drinking. Give it a good six years in
the cellar, and it could be stunning in 2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
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Marimar Estate 2009 Mas Cavalls Doña
(Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 3.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $44
Calera 2010 Selleck Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Mt. Harlan). If there’s one California Pinot Noir you cellar this vintage, make it this one. It’s a
stone-cold guarantee. Light and silky in the mouth, with
brisk acidity, it shows rich raspberry, cherry, red currant
and sandalwood flavors that are deep and long. Has all
the necessary balance to evolve many years, and should
start showing bottle development after 2018. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $80
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Failla 2011 Whistler Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). A delicately structured,
low-alcohol Pinot from the Sonoma Coast that shows
winemaker Ehren Jordan’s increasing fascination with
this part of Sonoma County. The wine is light in texture,
with savory wild cherry, licorice, sweet tobacco, mocha, bacon and spice flavors. That sounds like a wild assortment, but somehow it all comes together, in a wine
Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg VineyardDijonClones Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
93
Lynmar 2011 Quail Hill Vineyard Block 10
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
Marimar Estate 2009 Chico’s Run Doña
(Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 6. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
Calera 2010 Ryan Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Mt. Harlan). You can almost read through the
translucent ruby color of this wine, but there’s nothing
light about it. Rich with cherries, it offers lots of pleasure now, but with moderate alcohol, fine acidity, and
minerality that gives the wine a foundation, it should
hold in the cellar until 2018, at least. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $42
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Reaper 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). For full review see page 6. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
Dolina 2011 Rio Vista Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). This wine is silky and wellbalanced in acids and tannins, with judicious oak influences framing complex cherry, red currant and spice flavors. Feels very rich, yet the alcohol is a modest 13.7%
by volume. Coming after the high-scoring 2010 vintage,
Dolina’s 2011 is fine to drink now, and should develop
bottle notes over the next six years or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $30
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Marimar Estate 2009 Stony Block Don
Miguel Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $47
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August West 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). One of the best Russian River
Pinots you can buy at this price. Shows classically rich
pomegranate, persimmon and cherry fruit, enhanced
Gary Farrell 2010 Hallberg Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $55
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Gary Farrell 2010 Stiling Vineyard Pinot
see page 7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
ity provide the balance needed to make it feel round
and graceful in the mouth. Ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
90
Scratch 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia
Highlands). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). The Soberanes Vineyard is the source to well-regarded wines from
Bruliam, Siduri and Bernardus. Lucia’s 2011 is a good
followup to their 2010, showing fresh, jammy cherry
and persimmon flavors, brightened with zippy acidity
and finished with sweet oak. Will benefit from a few
years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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Longoria 2010 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page
7. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
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Stemmler 2010 Nugent Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Concentrated
and elusively complex in cherry, red currant and sandalwood flavors, with a hint of red tomato and bloody red
meat that testifies to the cool vintage. It’s a big, dense
wine, but also quite tannic, and a little high in alcohol,
giving it a full body. A bit ungainly now, but impressive
nonetheless for sheer power. Give it six years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $44
abv: 14.5%
Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 8.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $49
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Williams Selyem 2011 Olivet Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
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Balletto 2011 Winery Block Estate Pinot
see page 9.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $38
90
Davis Bynum 2011 Jane’s Vineyard Garfield Block Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Tightly wound still, this wine isn’t showing much
yet beyond ripe cherries, pomegranates and new oak.
Firm tannins and crisp acidity provide structure, and
the finish is dry and long. But the balance and complexity suggest that this block selection will age well. Hold
until 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $60
abv: 14.5%
90
Failla 2011 Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Fort Ross-Seaview). At last Failla can use
this newl-approved appellation for their estate-grown
fruit. The wine is concentrated in raspberry and cherry
jam and sweet oak flavors. The acidity associated with
this extreme western edge of Sonoma County, so near
the ocean, is brisk and stimulating. The flavors are a little candied now, but you might try giving it 4–5 years
to see if it gains bottle complexity. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $65
90
Kenneth Volk 2009 Santa Maria Cuvee Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A very rich,
ripe Pinot that merits its high score for the sheer California-ness of flavor. The fruit is enormously attractive
with raspberries and cherries, yet fine tannins and acid-
Merryvale 2010 Stanly Ranch Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Lovely to drink now for its
smooth, silky texture, dryness and balancing acidity. The
flavors are wildly rich, suggesting cherry pie, red currant, licorice, bacon and sandalwood. Good as it is, it
will improve with 4–5 years in the bottle, picking up
earthier dried fruit and mushroom notes. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $65
abv: NA
Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Very good price for a nice,
silky, dry Pinot of this quality. It’s quite restrained, in
keeping with the vintage, showing herb-inflected sour
cherry candy, cranberry, red currant and spice flavors,
brightened with zesty acidity. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $24
90
Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page
11.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $49
89
Calera 2010 de Villiers Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Mt. Harlan). De Villiers is one of Calera’s newest vineyards, and whether it’s a warmer site
or simply comprised of showier clones, it’s forward in
raspberry and cherry jam flavors, with lots of sweet, caramelized oak. The finish is long and sweet in fruit, and
the alcohol is well below 14% by volume. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $42
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La Crema 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Nothing shy about this wine. It erupts
like a fruit volcano, offering wave after wave of raspberries, cherries and ripe persimmons, sweetened with
vanilla and butterscotch tones of oak. The mouthfeel is
all silk and satin. Drink now for sheer pleasure. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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MacMurray Ranch 2010 Reserve Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). This is a rich,
delicious Pinot Noir. It spreads a fantail of raspberry
and cherry jam sweetness across the palate, and then
the acidity kicks in, providing fortunate balance. With
a silky texture, it’s a lovely wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $37
89
Waterstone 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
89
Williams Selyem 2011 Westside Road
Neighbors Pinot Noir (Russian River Val-
ley). A little spare in concentration, yet elegantly constructed, with vibrant acidity and some firm tannins
framing pomegranate, sour-cherry candy, mushroom,
baking spice and toast flavors. —S.H.
Price: $69
abv: 13.9%
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Davis Bynum 2011 Jane’s Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). A fine Pinot
from this veteran producer. They haven’t lost their deft
touch despite changes in ownership. The wine is classic
Russian River, showing full-throttle berry-cherry fruit,
balanced with good acidity, while maintaining a delicate
mouthfeel. It’s complex enough to warrant repeated sipping. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Lucia 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a darkly colored, rich wine that’s
uniquely savory. It floods the mouth with raspberry and
cherry jam, mocha and sweet oak flavors. Best for drinking soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
88
MAD Wines 2010 Brix 24.5 Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). There’s lots of ripe
raspberry and cherry fruit in this Pinot, with a rich
touch of smoky oak and vanilla. It’s nice and light in the
mouth, with brisk, mouthwatering acidity. A great wine
for the price that’s ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $22
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Stemmler 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
This is the most accessible of Stemmler’s trio of
new 2010 Pinots. It offers rich raspberry, cherry and
sandalwood flavors, and shows a fine balance of all its
parts. Elegant enough to drink at the best restaurants,
or just to uplift an ordinary hamburger on a summer
evening. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Central
Coast). A little heavy and syrupy, especially for
Williams Selyem, but it’s utterly delicious in blackberry
jam and root beer flavors that finish soft and sweet, yet
tart. Very easy to polish off the whole bottle over a great
steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $39
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Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). Sweetly attractive in raspberry and cherry jam flavors that are bright and zesty, while
smoky oak brings spicy-sweet notes of vanilla bean and
buttered cinnamon toast. Despite all the sheer lusciousness, this Pinot finishes dry. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $39
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Woodenhead 2010 Ritchie Vineyard Cinder Cone Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lots of acidity gives the cherry and raspberry flavors a sour candy tartness that makes the mouth water.
The mouthfeel is light and silky, as you want in a Pinot
Noir. It’s a fine wine to drink now, with a good decanting, but try cellaring it for 5–6 years to see what kinds
of earthy, mushroomy complexities emerge. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
87
Adelaida 2010 HMR Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Paso Robles). The chocolate and blackcherry jam flavors are a little too heavy and rich, lacking
zest and complexity. But there’s no denying this Pinot is
delicious to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $40
pricey for the quality. Keep in mind that this is not one
of Rochioli’s vineyard-designated bottlings. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $79
some good cherry and currant fruit, but the wine falls
short. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Two Sisters 2010 Lindsay’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Some vegetal notes
mix into flavors of raspberries and cherries, detracting
from the full enjoyment of this Pinot Noir. Other than
that, it’s dry, briskly acidic and full bodied. Drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Longoria 2011 La Encantada Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). There are some
lean, green peppercorn, mint and herb flavors that suggest unripeness. The chilly vintage appears to have taken its toll, despite some well-oaked raspberry and cherry lushness. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $50
87
Woodenhead 2010 Wet Kiss Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). An easy, delicious Pinot Noir, this is dry and brisk in acidity, with rich cherry,
cola, cranberry and sweet oak flavors. The silky texture
makes it especially drinkable now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $52
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Merriam 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). This is a good, everyday Pinot that’s
rich and sweet in berries and cherries, with plenty of
oak to give it that buttered toast and vanilla deliciousness. Enjoy it now. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $40
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Babcock 2011 Psi Clone Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). Shows a dry, acidic profile, with
tantalizing raspberry and sour-cherry candy and sweet
oak flavors. The mouthfeel is silky and delicate. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
Babcock 2011 Déjà Vu Pinot Noir (Paso
Robles). There’s a toughness to this wine that
makes it a little hard to appreciate. The tannins are raw,
and there’s a green, herbal quality to the cherry and
raspberry fruit. The oak seems to stand aside, and so
does the acidity. It’s all a bit ungainly now and is unlikely
to improve with age, so drink up. —S.H.
Price: $60
abv: 14.8%
Babcock 2011 Slice of Heaven Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Was it the chilly vintage that
made this wine so elusive? Tasted in the spring, it was
oaky and jammy with raspberries and cherries, with the
astringent tannins of green herb tea. Hard to tell where
it’s going, if anywhere, but it does have dryness and vital
acidity in its favor. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $60
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Alta Maria 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria
Valley). A bit on the brawny side of Pinot Noir,
with jagged tannins and plenty of full-bodied cherry
fruit. Not a bad wine, but lacking the delicacy of the
2008 and 2009 vintages. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $28
87
August West 2011 Sierra Mar Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Lots
of enjoyable cherry, currant, licorice and sandalwood
flavors in this dry, crisp Pinot Noir. Firm tannins give
it some toughness, but it doesn’t seem to be an ager, so
drink over the next 3–4 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
Ghostwriter 2011 Amaya Ridge Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Rich
and ripe with cherry, pomegranate, persimmon and
spice flavors, with a nice, silky texture and fine tannins.
The acidity is sharp, the alcohol refreshingly moderate.
Could benefit from some time in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $45
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Healdsburg Ranches 2011 Appellation
Series Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Good, but something of a letdown after the previous
two vintages. Could it be the unusually chilly weather
in 2011? The wine is delicately structured and dry, with
crisp acidity framing subtle cherry and cranberry flavors. But it’s a little lacking in depth. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $25
Babcock 2011 Precocious Pinot Noir
(Santa Barbara County). There’s a tug of unripeness that shows up in this Pinot Noir, like a cross of
mushrooms, green herbs and asparagus. Yet it has some
good cherry and red currant sweetness, the alcohol is
nice and low and the acidity is mouthwatering. Drink it
now after a few minutes of chilling in the fridge. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $60
Balletto 2011 BCD Vineyard Estate Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s some
sharpness in this wine, as well as a touch of unripeness.
Still, it offers plenty of raspberry and cherry fruit, and
is nice and silky, with plenty of sweet oak. Not likely to
develop, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Ghostwriter 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz
County). Plenty of tart, savory fruit in this Pinot, with cherries and pomegranates turning a little
earthy and tomatoey. Brightened with tart acidity, it’s an
easy wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $30
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Longoria 2011 Lovely Rita Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). This Pinot is lovely—it’s dry,
silky and moderate in alcohol, yet rich in fruit, with
raspberry and cherry jam, tobacco and oak flavors. Give
it some time in the decanter and drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $32
Longoria 2011 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). This wine
shows a tough unripeness that makes it hard to appreciate. There’s a green peppercorn edge to the raspberries and cherries that accentuates the dryness and acids,
and makes the tannins feel metallic. Still, it does display
Bien Nacido elegance. Hard to see this wine aging, so
drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $45
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Rochioli 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). This wine is direct and candied, with
cherry and raspberry jam and and sweet oak flavors, but
brightened with crisp acidity. A very good Pinot, but
Longoria 2011 Fe Ciega Vineyard Block
M Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Lean and
minty. Despite a certain elegance, this Pinot lacks the
voluptuous richness you want in a wine of this price.
The chilly vintage seems to have taken its toll. There’s
Peters Family 2009 Sonoma Stage VIneyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This
wine is heavy and full-bodied for Pinot Noir, with soft
acids and rich cherry, currant, anise and mocha flavors. Doesn’t have the structure for aging, so drink up.
—S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.2%
August West 2011 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Rosella’s
is a very good vineyard, but this Pinot is unripe and unbalanced. There’s an herbal, vegetal note that gets in the
way of the cherries and pomegranates. Hard to see it
going anywhere, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
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Calera 2011 Pinot Noir (Central Coast).
Not a lot of stuffing in this Pinot Noir. The raspberry and cherry flavors hit fast and disappear quickly,
with a mushroomy finish. But the wine does show a certain flair and elegance. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
85
Jacella 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
With strawberry jam and pink bubblegum flavors, made keen by fresh acidity, this Pinot Noir is
Beaujolais-like. It’s easygoing and made for drinking
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
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Luli 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A heavy, soft wine that tastes somewhat
like a candy bar, with raspberry, caramel, brown sugar and roasted almond flavors. From the Pisoni family.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
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Foley 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
Some green, vegetal notes mar this otherwise
fine Pinot Noir. It’s dry, silky in texture and brisk in acidity. Despite some good raspberry jam and sweet oak flavors, it’s a hard wine to like. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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August West 2011 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). There’s an unripe, vegetal
note that interferes with the enjoyment of this Pinot
Noir. Although the wine is nicely dry, crisp and elegantly
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buyingguide
structured, with some good raspberry and cherry fruit,
that taste of asparagus is hard to get over. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Gary Farrell 2010 Ramal Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Tastes a little vegetal and
simple, with cherry jam, asparagus and sweet oak flavors. Not a success, and a particular disappointment
compared to the winery’s other 2010 single-vineyard
Pinots. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
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Hess Select 2010 Pinot Noir (Central
Coast). This is a pretty ordinary Pinot Noir
that’s dry and brisk in acidity, with thinned-down cherry skin, pomegranate and cola flavors. Loses a point for
some bitterness in the finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
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Six Degrees 2011 Pinot Noir (California).
A simple Pinot, with Beaujolais-like bubble
gum and raspberry-jam flavors. Finishes ripe and a bit
sugary. —S.H.
Price: $14
abv: 13.5%
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Vinum 2010 Pinot Noir (California). Soft,
dull and vegetal. Still, it’s drinkable for some
modest cola flavors and velvety mouthfeel. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
sangiovese
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La Folia Winery 2010 Sangiovese (Sierra
Foothills). A buzz is building around Calaveras
County-based La Folia, and this lovely wine shows why.
Opening with a subtle oaky aroma, it evolves to offer a
lightness of color and texture, enveloped by delicious
highlights of cherry and cranberry fruit. Well integrated
and well structured, this Sangiovese ends with a long
and satisfying finish of violet-inflected plum. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Pure Cru 2009 Sangio Vetta Sangiovese
(Napa Valley). Tastes considerably fruitier
and more full bodied than your typical Sangiovese, no
doubt because winemaker Mitch Cosentino added Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc to the blend. The wine retains Sangiovese’s acidity and sour cherry flavors, but
the Bordeaux varieties bring layers of blackberries, cassis and chocolate to this dry, elegant wine. —S.H.
Price: $28
abv: 14.8%
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Amador Cellars 2010 Clockspring Vineyard Sangiovese (Amador County). Light
in color and only just faintly aromatic, Amador Cellars’
Sangiovese tastes of red cherry and blueberry with a
tight tannin structure that suggests giving it 3–5 years
more time. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Amador Foothill Winery 2009 Estate Bottled Sangiovese (Shenandoah Valley).
Largely tannic and bearing a lot of oak, Amador Foothill’s Sangiovese is more savory than sweet, with leather,
mocha and herbs rising to the top in taste. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $18
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Muscardini 2010 Pauli Ranch Sangiovese (Redwood Valley). Tannic and powerfully built, Muscardini’s Sangiovese veers into slightly
sour-currant territory and offers a long, leathery finish.
—V.B.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $36
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Muscardini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard
Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). This wine is
hot, soft and simple, with blackberry jam, chocolate and
anise flavors. The fruit is enormously concentrated. Inelegant, but it will partner well with barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
barbera
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Easton 2010 Cooper Ranch Barbera
(Shenandoah Valley). Spicy, with a big redfruit expression, this is a yummy Barbera that’s full of
bright cherry juice. It’s textured, layered and complex
with a leathery finish. This wine is one to store for future
enjoyment or to break open now with pasta now. —V.B.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
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Andis 2011 Cooper Ranch Barbera (Amador County). With 20% Petite Sirah blended
in, Andis’s Barbera is juicy, balanced and perfumey. It’s
a beautiful wine with cranberry, vanilla and cherry aromas and flavors. Pair with your favorite pasta, pizza or
grilled meats. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Easton 2010 Monarch Mine Vineyard
Barbera (Sierra Foothills). Easton’s smallproduction Barbera is tight, showcasing its mountaingrown fruit, and quite savory and leathery in style. With
a backbone of blacker fruit than Cooper Ranch, it’s
earthy and ready for mushroom-laden pasta dishes or
risotto. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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La Folia Winery 2010 Barbera (Sierra
Foothills). Smooth, easy to enjoy and crisp in
acidity, La Folia’s Barbera tastes lighter than its 15.5%
alcohol with a mocha kiss on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $28
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Uvaggio 2010 Barbera (Lodi). A great-value Barbera sourced from Lodi and entirely barrel-aged, Uvaggio’s Italian red is very savory and rich
with a mix of leather, cherry, chocolate and perfume.
With a small amount of Primitivo in the blend, it’ll accompany meats and pastas in red sauce as well as drink
nicely on its own, the acidity standing up to a wide range
of earthy dishes. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
cabernet sauvignon
95
Von Strasser 2010 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
95
Von Strasser 2010 Sori Bricco Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
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Capture 2010 Révélation Cabernet Sauvignon (Pine Mountain). What a great follow-up to the 2009 vintage. You can put this in the cellar with entire confidence that it will age for likely 10–
20 years, and actually improve. At nearly three years of
age, it’s rich and vibrant with black currants, blueberries
and dark chocolate, and a big hit of sweet oak. But the
tannins are impossible, locking the mouth down with
astringency. It’s a pity that most of the 2l,064 bottles
produced will probably be opened too young. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $140
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Sequum 2009 Four Soil Melange Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 5.
Price: $50
abv: 14.2%
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Silverado 2009 Limited Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page
abv: 14.6%
Price: $150
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Von Strasser 2010 Vineyard 2131 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).
Shows the Von Strasser signature all down the line, with
incredibly extracted blackberry jam, cassis liqueur, dark
chocolate and new French oak flavors, wrapped into
hard tannins and brightened with fine acidity. Only the
second release from this young vineyard, it’s an intensely interesting, complex wine that will reward cellaring.
Best after 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $80
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Bjorn 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Howell
Mountain). Classic Howell Mountain Cabernet. The fruit is intense and concentrated in black currants and cocoa, the tannins are strong and hard, the
acidity is perfect, the finish is entirely dry, and there’s a
firm minerality. So deliciously elegant now, it’s hard to
resist, but this Cab will surely reward cellaring through
at least 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $75
abv: 14.8%
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Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 Passing By
Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Exceedingly rich and sweet in blackberries, currants and
chocolate, this Cab is also high in alcohol, but there’s no
heat. The glycerine-like sweetness is part of the enjoyable package. 100% new French oak is not out of balance, bringing sweet vanilla and toast to the package.
Defines the Paso style of warmth, opulence and soft deliciousness. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $46
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Linked 2008
Cabernet Sauvignon
(Knights Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $120
93
Redmon 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Sequum 2008 Kidd Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). At almost five years of
age, this wine is mellow, smooth and incredibly good. It
shows classic Cabernet flavors of blackberries and sweet
cassis liqueur. It is beautifully concentrated with ripe
fruit just starting to develop interesting, aged characteristics. Just beautiful for drinking now, and should continue to evolve in the bottle for at least six more years.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $60
93
St. Supéry 2009 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see page
6.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $85
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Tom Eddy 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Kudos to vintner Eddy for
holding this back for nearly six years. It’s still fresh, with
rich blackberry, cherry, mocha and oak flavors. The tannins are gorgeous, and the acids are soft enough to permit drinking now. Good as it is, all indications are that it
will evolve in bottle complexity. Hold until 2018. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
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Tom Eddy 2005 Meteor Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). At nearly seven years in age, this 100% Cabernet is still offering ripe,
fresh blackberry, cassis liqueur, dark chocolate and oak
flavors. It feels young, with firm, hard tannins, but very
fine and complex. Just at the beginning of its journey, it
will easily reward further cellaring. Hold until 2015, at
the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $135
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Von Strasser 2010 Agira Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This
is one of Von Strasser’s newer bottlings, with the grapes
planted only in 2001. It is a designation to watch for its
intensity, purity and longevity. Enormously focused in
black currants, dark chocolate and moo shu plum sauce,
it shows the hard tannins of a young Diamond Mountain Cab. The winemaker has unusually added a small
percentage of Zinfandel to the blend. Should begin to
blossom after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
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Von Strasser 2010 Post Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).
Enormously concentrated in blackberry and cherry llqueur and currant flavors, wrapped into hard tannins,
this is a classic Von Strasser Cabernet. Hard to describe
the richness except to say that few Cabs are this potent.
Yet the wine is thoroughly dry, and the balance is exceptional. Needs plenty of time. Best after 2019. Cellar
Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $80
93
Von Strasser 2010 Spaulding Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This is one of eight new 2010 Cabernet or Bordeaux-style blends from the winery, and they’re all very
fine wines, more alike than not. The Spaulding is mainly
Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Merlot and Petit Verdot. It’s moderate in alcohol, bone dry and enormously
tannic, with classic black currant and dark chocolate fla-
vors that finish complex and hard with minerals. Will
develop for many years. Best after 2018. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
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Daou 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $56
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Daou 2010 Soul of a Lion Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Based on Cabernet
Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend will make you
take a second look at Paso Robles. It’s softly tannic and
enormously complex, offering waves of black cherries,
currants, licorice, mocha and sweet oak. Really beautiful to drink now, and should develop bottle complexities
over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $100
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Envy 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon
(Calistoga). While this is the most tannic of
Envy’s wines, it’s also made in the house style of soft,
fruity approachability. Forward and lush with blackberry jam, currant and spice flavors, it shows an impeccable
balance. Wonderful now and over the next 3–4 years.
—S.H.
Price: $48
abv: 14.5%
92
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 Jack of
Hearts Petit Verdot Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). This is a huge wine, that’s insanely rich and concentrated. It tastes like the ripest summer blackberries, still warm from the sun, mashed and
drizzed with crème de cassis and chocolate syrup. The
estate vineyard is on Paso Robles’ west side, and quite
high in elevation in the southern spur of the Santa Lucia
Mountains. The wine is ungainly now, and needs time
to develop. Better after 2017. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $50
Shafer 2010 One Point Five Cabernet
Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). For full
review see page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $72
Tom Eddy 2009 Elodian Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in a fine, accessible style, this 100% Cab is delicious now with blackberry jam, chocolate and cassis flavors. It has classic
Napa Valley tannins that are rich and ripe. This is a fancy wine, that’s soft yet complex, and at this price, a good
investment. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
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Von Strasser 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Diamond Mountain). This is the winery’s basic Cabernet, a blend of five vineyards on the mountain. It’s a smooth, elegant, classic mountain Cab, that’s
dry and tannic, with delicious blackberry, currant and
sweet-smoky oak flavors. It’s right up there with Von
Strasser’s vineyard-designated wines that cost nearly
twice as much, which makes it a great value. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $45
91
Gustafson Family 2009 Watchtower Vineyard Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry
Creek Valley). A very fine Cabernet, showing the soft
tannins and herbaceousness of many Sonoma County
Cabs. At the same time, there’s a sweet streak of blackberry jam and mocha. Feels fine and and balanced in
the mouth, with brisk tannins and a long, complex finish. One of the better Dry Creek Cabs out there, it will
provide good drinking over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
90
Conn Creek 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 10.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
92
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 WCS Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Lots of
sweet, smoky, vanilla-accented oak in this Cab, but the
blackberry and cherry fruit is enormous, easily capable
of handing the wood influence. It’s a flashy Cabernet,
ripe and smooth and softly delicious. Seems best now
and for the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $75
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Peters Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Mountain). For full review see
page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $52
Round Pond 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). A big, rich, vital Cabernet with immediate attraction that is deceptive. Sure,
you can enjoy it now, while it’s brimming in cherry jam
and red and black currants with a finish of rich, caramelized oak. But it will soften and mellow over the
next eight years, and maybe even longer. This is Round
Pond’s best estate Cabernet in years. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Envy 2010 Price Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Super concentrated
with blackberries and cherries, this is a fantastically
ripe, jammy, fruity wine that pushes the boundaries of
balance. Balance is fortunately provided in the way of
soft, gentle tannins and a squeeze of acidity. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
J. Lohr 2010 Hilltop Cabernet Sauvignon
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
Louis M. Martini 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). For full review see
page 10.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
90
Pope Valley Winery 2010 Estate Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For
abv: 14.4%
Price: $58
90
Pure Cru 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Classic Napa Valley Cabernet,
this is dry, tannic and ripe, with delicious blackberry and
cassis liqueur flavors that finish with style and elegance.
Scores high in the deliciousness factor, although it’s a bit
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lacking in substance to age. Drink up over the next year
or two. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $42
90
The Farm Winery 2009 Cardinal Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is one
of the most expensive Cabernet Sauvignons ever from
Paso Robles, but the truth is that it expresses a new,
emerging style from that region of balance and complexity. Made from 100% Cab, it’s dry, full bodied and
balanced, although a little conspicuous in alcohol. The
black currant flavors are powerful and delicious. Drink
soon. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $90
90
Twenty Bench 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
90
Venteux 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 11.
Price: $48
abv: 14.2%
90
Vina Robles 2009 Mountain Road Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This Cabernet shows the winery’s signature style
of massively extracted, ripe black currant, plum and
chocolate flavors with elaborate oak. The finish is thoroughly dry, long and spicy. This is a flashy, showy wine,
but it’s in somewhat of a slumber right now. Give it another few years to wake up. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $45
89
Buehler 2010 Papa’s Knoll Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). A fine Cabernet, this is dry, full bodied and softly tannic, with real
Napa elegance. Feels smooth in the mouth, offering
concentrated blackberry, currant, dark chocolate and
sweet oak flavors. Drink over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
89
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County-Sonoma County). For full review see page 12.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
89
J. Lohr 2010 Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see
page 12. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
88
Adelaida 2009 Viking Estate Vineyard
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Defines the Paso Robles style of enormously ripe
fruit and softness. Incredibly rich in brown sugar, blackberry jam, chocolate and smoky oak flavors, it’s not particularly subtle, but delicious now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $75
88
Cedarville Vineyard 2008 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (El Dorado). This is a very
fairly priced Cabernet given its quality. It’s made from
100% Cab and all estate grown in the high elevations
of Fair Play in El Dorado County. Oaky and smoky, it
whispers of mountain fruit, with herb, cassis and blackberry highlights amid a background of savory earth. Age
3–5 years. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $29
88
Chateau Margene 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Enormously
fruity and ripe, this Cab explodes with blackberry, blueberry, currant, and chocolate flavors that can only develop in a warm region. Yet there’s enough of an acidtannin structure to give it balance. Try pairing with steak
with a gorgonzola cream sauce. —S.H.
Price: $84
abv: 14.9%
88
Clos Solene 2010 L’Insolent Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Amazingly ripe
and sweet with blackberry jam, chocolate, cassis liqueur
and oak. It’s almost porty in its decadence, but what this
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot lacks
in subtlety, it more than makes up for in sheer power.
Drink now–2015. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $95
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Kenneth Volk 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). There’s lots of soft, delicious
chocolate, blackberry jam and red currant flavors in this
Cabernet. The wine is fully aged, to judge by the jamminess, but it still retains some tough tannins. Drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $36
88
Kenwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). For full review see page 13.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
88
Punch 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A good Cabernet, this is dry and tannic, with blackberry, currant, dried herb and oak flavors.
It has a certain elegance of tannic structure, and finishes
deliciously long and spicy. The grapes come from Napa
Valley and Alexander Valley. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
Merriam 2009 Glockner-Turner Ranch
Cabernet Sauvignon (Rockpile). A solid
Cabernet from this hot appellation, located well inland
in Sonoma County. The wine is dry, tannic and fairly
high in alcohol, although it wears its heat well. The
fruit is very ripe in the direction of black currants and
dark chocolate. Will hold and change over the next 6–8
years, turning drier and earthier, but you can drink it
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
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Stryker Sonoma 2010 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). It’s a clash
of the titans now, with massively ripe blackberry, currant and chocolate flavors battling a battalion of oak and
tannins for supremecy. It’s a good wine—rich and soft
in the Alexander Valley way—but unresolved. Try giving it 4–5 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
Peju 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This rich Cabernet drinks beautifully
now for its ripe, forward blackberry, cassis liqueur and
oak flavors. It’s smooth and dry, with classic Napa balance. Good as it is, it should develop in the bottle over
the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Peju 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford). Dry, tannic and impressive for
its depth of fruit, showing blackberry, chocolate and
currant flavors that veer into overripe raisins, which
gives some bitterness to the finish. The mouthfeel is
a little hot in alcohol, but creamy smooth. Hard to say
where this wine is going, so drink over the next four
years. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $115
88
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
88
Reaper 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk
Hill). Despite the grim reference to the hooded
guy with the scythe, this is a lively Cabernet, that’s rich
and tasty in flavor. At nearly four years of age, it’s ready
to drink now, with soft tannins framing blackberry, mocha and oak flavors. —S.H.
Price: $30
abv: 14.2%
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Stryker Sonoma 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Masses of sweet
blackberry jam give this Cabernet an easy deliciousness.
The fruit and oak are balanced with fine tannins and a
gentle scour of acidity. Not one for the cellar, but it will
benefit from an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
87
B&E 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). There’s lots of rich blackberry,
chocolate and currant flavor in this smooth, 100% varietal Cabernet. The tannin-acid balance is fine, giving
the wine rich interest. Ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
87
Bridlewood 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). You’ll find some fancy elegance in this dry, balanced Cabernet. It’s full bodied
and tannic, as you expect a Cab to be, and offers a burst
of fresh blackberry and cherry fruit. Good price for the
quality. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
87
Camp 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Lots of sweet, fruity richness in this Cabernet. It has ripe flavors of blackberries,
blueberries and cherries, wrapped into smooth tannins,
with hints of smoky oak. They’ve done a good job to produce a wine this tasty at a fair price. —S.H.
Price: $17
abv: 13.3%
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Daou 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). Ripe, soft and oaky, with gentle,
sweet flavors of blackberry, blueberry and cherry jam,
mocha and toast. Easy to drink now with a great grilled
steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
87
Ehret 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights
Valley). This Cab may be in a bit of a dip. It’s
awkward, with a sharp, edgy mouthfeel, and as the wine
ages, raisin notes creep forward. Still, kudos to Ehret
for holding the wine back for so long, as it does possess
a certain complexity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
87
Ideology Cellars 2009 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). It’s all about ripe,
jammy blackberries, cherries and dark chocolate in this
soft, tannic Cabernet. The alcohol is noticeable for the
heat it gives, and the finish is rich with glycerols. Drink
soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $48
87
Michael David 2010 Rapture Cabernet
Sauvignon (Lodi). Lush and fruit forward,
Rapture, whose motto is "Don’t be left behind!" is
full bodied but soft, with leather and herb tones and
a smoky finish. Blended with a smidgen of Petite Sirah
and reaching 14.9% abv, it tastes every bit of that, with a
smoky finish of oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $59
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Signorello 2010 Estate Grown Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The pedigree of
this Cabernet shows in the incredible depth of flavor
and softly gentle, complex tannins. With intensely concentrated blackberry jam, cassis liqueur and oak flavors,
it’s distinctly Napa-esque. It is, however, compromised
by sharp acidity that’s noticeable throughout the palate
experience. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
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Six Sigma 2009 Else’s Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Lake County). This is an austere, leathery Cabernet with smooth tannins that will
take time to move beyond its more earthy, herbal components and share its blackberry fruit. Pair with a steak
in the meantime, preferably in a blackberry reduction
sauce, which might coax out more of the wine’s flavor.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $42
87
Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Clone 30
Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).
Tempting in raspberry, vanilla and spice, Wood’s Clone
30 Cabernet Sauvignon is fully formed, rich, and slightly oaky with a finish of tobacco pipe. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
86
McGrail 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This Cab boasts
big cherry and vanilla-oak flavors, but it’s slightly smoky
and herbal, too. Entirely comprised of Cabernet Sauvignon grapes from Livermore, the wine might benefit from some more time in bottle, another 1–3 years.
—V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $39
85
Cimarone 2011 Three Creek Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of
Santa Barbara). This Cabernet has a rather bubblegummy, candied, gassy taste. It’s exuberantly ripe in
cherries, red currants and mocha, and fun to drink, but
expensive. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
85
Edna Valley Vineyard 2011 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Central Coast). With some
blackberry, cassis and oak flavors, this is a pretty good
wine. It’s a little green, and the acidity is sharp. Drink
up. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
85
Kirkland Signature 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This is a good Cab for
drinking with everyday fare, like burgers or tacos. It’s
softly tannic and sweet with blackberries, cherries and
toasty oak. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $8/1.5 L
85
Kirkland Signature 2010 Signature Series Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For
abv: 14.9%
Price: $19
85
L’Aventure 2010 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Even though the alcohol is a high 15.3% abv, this Cabernet tastes like it
still has some residual sweetness. It’s as rich and ripe in
blackberries, but awkward, and doesn’t seem capable of
aging. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $80
Greystone 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). Sometimes, all you need is an
easy Cabernet, and this is one of the more accessible
ones out there. For the price, it shows Cabernet-style
character and plenty of easy drinkability. Best Buy.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Justin 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). Dry and tannic, this fresh young
Cabernet shows good varietal flavors of blackberries
and currants, touched by smoky oak. There are some
green notes. It’s a sound wine, but unlikely to develop,
so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $26
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Materra 2009 Cunat Family Vineyards
Cabernet Sauvignon (St. Helena). Enormously ripe cherry, red currant, licorice and cocoa flavors star in this softly tannic wine. It tastes lush and ripe,
the result of a massively fruity extract, caramel-like oak
notes and glycerols. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
MAD Wines 2010 Brix 26.2 Cabernet Sauvignon (Chalk Hill). Here’s a bone dry, tannic,
full-bodied Cabernet. It’s packed with cassis flavors that
define the essence of Cabernet. But it is very astringent.
Will it age? The best guess is no, due to a certain thinness, so give it a long decanting and drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
Wente 2010 Southern Hills Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley). This is a smooth,
straightforward Cabernet Sauvignon, that’s well-priced,
but textbook in its berry, spice and herbal flavors and
aromas. A fantastic everyday wine. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Chasing Lions 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(North Coast). Powerfully intoxicating in aroma, this North Coast Cab turns slightly thin and tannic
upon tasting, with a melange of herb and coffee flavor.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
84
Dane Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Valley). This is a lush, soft, ripe
Cabernet. Its main feature is fruit, and plenty of it. It is
full of blackberries, cherries, currants and plums, edged
with sweet oak. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $38
84
Nine North Wine Company 2011 Rock &
Vine Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast).
This North Coast Cab opens with fragrant cranberry
aromas and has a decent level of texture and structure,
but devolves into slightly green territory and a confusing
finish of coffee. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
81
Harlow Ridge 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodi). A very basic Cabernet Sauvignon, very
low in alcohol, with a harshness on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
cabernet franc
92
Easton 2010 Monarch Mine Vineyard
Cabernet Franc (Sierra Foothills). A fine
vintage of Bill Easton’s Cabernet Franc, from the Monarch Mine Vineyard, where he typically sources tremendous Syrah and Barbera, this wine is still developing and
will do nicely with time. For now it shows perfumed
herbal restraint, subtle spice and a twist of oaky coffee
on the finish. A savory wine that would pair well with
filet mignon à point. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
92
Kenneth Volk 2008 Cabernet Franc (Paso
Robles). A lovely wine, that’s gentle, feminine
and dry—just what Cabernet Franc is supposed to be.
Kudos to Kenneth Volk for holding it back this long.
It’s still pretty tannic, but the cherry and currant flavors
have a savory hint of green herbs that lend complexity
and deliciousness. This may be the perfect steak wine.
—S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $36
90
Peju 2009 Reserve Cabernet Franc
(Rutherford). This Cab Franc is very delicious
for its soft cherry pie and oak flavors. The tannins are
pure Napa— thick, rich and detailed. Easy to like it now
with a smoky grilled steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $105
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Peju 2010 Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).
Rich, ripe and extracted with cherry and currant
fruit, this Cab Franc shows fine tannins, acids and a dry
finish that makes it drinkable now. It has a Napa fanciness that lifts it into elegance. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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DARE by Viader 2011 Cabernet Franc
(Napa Valley). The structure is just fine, with
graceful tannins and acidity, and the alcohol is fairly
modest. The flavors are lovely, too, suggesting cherries
and red currants. But they turn a little hollow mid-palate, and finish quick. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
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Albertina 2009 Meredith’s Reserve Cabernet Franc (Mendocino). Made from sustainably-grown mountain grapes, this is a fruit-forward
Cab Franc with smaller percentages of Petit Verdot and
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Cabernet Sauvignon blended in. It’s subtle in the variety’s classicly herbal qualities, but has a juicy softness
and a whiff of coffee on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $24
85
Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Cabernet
Franc (Livermore Valley). Intense in herbal
cranberry and cassis, this Livermore Cab Franc has a
touch of spiciness and a leathery finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
merlot
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Nickel & Nickel 2010 Harris Vineyard
Merlot (Oakville). For full review see page 3.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $53
90
Envy 2009 Estate Reserve Merlot (Calistoga). This is a delicious Merlot that seems to
showcase the warm Calistoga climate in its soft tannins
and power-packed black cherry, blueberry and licorice
flavors. The edge of oak is sweet and smoky. Drink this
intricately layered wine now. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 14.5%
Merlot, and it’s not just the fantastic label of a young,
beautiful Marilyn Monroe. The wine itself is dry and
firm in tannins, with blackberry and chocolate-covered
raisin flavors. The alcohol is a refreshingly low 12.5% by
volume. A great accomplishment. Production was 4,000
cases. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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McConnell Estates Winery 2007 Wackman Ranch Merlot (Lodi). This very fairly
priced Merlot from the Cosumnes River sub-section of
Lodi has a juicy berry roundness that makes it inviting
to drink, and softly textured all around. On the long finish is a remarkably vibrant strain of caramel-mocha flavor, and interesting secondary notes that may have developed over time on this 2007 vintage. —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $16
88
Parcel 41 2011 Merlot (Napa Valley). For
abv: 13.9%
Price: $19
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Nickel & Nickel 2010 Suscol Ranch Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $53
Peju 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). This wine
is a little direct, but very tasty, showing rich,
ripe cherry, red currant, cocoa and sweet oak flavors,
wrapped into lovely tannins. A polished, pretty wine for
drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
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Chelsea Goldschmidt 2011 Merlot (Alexander Valley). It’s no disrespect to say this is
a great family restaurant-style Merlot. Tens of millions
of Americans dig into beef at the neighborhood joint,
and they want a good red to drink alongside it. At this
price, this is that wine. It’s soft and rich with blackberries, blueberries and chocolate, with a finish of sweet,
toasty oak. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $17
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J. Lohr 2010 Los Osos Merlot (Paso Robles). For full review see page 12. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
89
William Hill Estate 2010 Merlot (Napa
Valley). For full review see page 13.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Chelsea Goldschmidt 2011 Merlot (Dry
Creek Valley). Polished and pretty, this Merlot delivers plenty of juicy cherry, red currant, mocha
and toast flavors that are lovely to drink now. The wine
is smooth and softly tannic—just what you want Merlot
to be. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $17
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Flora Springs 2010 Windfall Merlot
(Rutherford). This Merlot explores the outer
limits of ripeness. It’s made in the modern cult style of
soft, oaky and jammy fruit. You can taste the California
sunshine in every atom of chocolate and cassis. Already
throwing some sediment, it should be enjoyed soon before it all fades away, like a dream. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $85
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Marilyn 2011 Norma Jean Merlot (California). There’s lots to like in this affordable
Roche 2011 Merlot (Carneros). Sommeliers will love this wine for its elegance, and the
way it’s happy to stand back and support food, rather
than star at the table. It’s dry, medium bodied and tannic, with cherry, red currant, cocoa and sweet oak flavors. Drink over the next 2–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $33
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Merlot (Carneros). This shows the acidity,
dryness and body that often mark Merlot from California. The flavors are complex, showing sour cherry and
blackberry richness with quite a bit of herbaceousness.
Appreciation of this wine demands some participation
on the part of the drinker. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Merlot (Sonoma County-Napa County).
There’s lots of rich, jammy blackberry, cherry and oak
flavor in this Merlot, with a gentle scour of firm tannins.
It’s not an ager, but offers plenty of upfront pleasure for
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Kimmel 2010 Merlot (Mendocino County). Kimmel’s Merlot is satisfying in dark cherry,
vanilla and a streak of toasted coconut. Its finish is long
and textured, and the wine should have a lengthy shelf
life of 3–7 years more at least. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $38
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Marilyn 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This
shows the softness and red cherry flavors of a
nice Merlot, with rich Napa tannins and a hint of green
mint. It’s a clean, dry wine for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
Materra 2009 Merlot (Oak Knoll). A very
good Merlot, representing a huge increase in
quality over the 2008, and a return to the charms of the
2007. It’s ripe and tasty in fruit, currants and sweet oak,
and earns extra points for the fine structure. Ready now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
Wente 2010 Sandstone Estate Merlot
(Livermore Valley). For full review see page
13.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Kenneth Volk 2008 Merlot (Paso Robles).
Soft, rich and sweet, this is an easy Merlot for
drinking now. It has ripe, forward cherry, mocha and
oak flavors, with a hint of bacon that suggests pairing
with pork-based entrées. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $36
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Markham 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). This
is soft and simple, but there’s some charm to the
black cherry, blueberry and oak flavors. The bite of tannins on this everyday Merlot suggests pairing with rich
beef or lamb dishes. —S.H.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
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Merlot (Napa Valley). This Merlot is dry, firm
in tannins and earthy, with cherry, currant and tobacco
flavors that finish in a swirl of spice. There’s a rusticity to
the tannins that strongly suggests drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25
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Record Family Wines 2010 Merlot (Paso
Robles). A good, rustic Merlot, this is dry and
smooth, with cherry, chocolate, anise and spice flavors.
Fine for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
grenache
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Scratch 2011 Grenache (Arroyo Seco).
This is a sweetly gentle, attractive wine for
drinking now with steak, lamb chops or any meat with a
smoky, charred edge. It shows delicious cherry pie, moo
shu plum sauce and spice flavors, with a silky texture.
Made from 100% Grenache, it’s balanced by fine acidity. The oak influence is rich but subtle. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
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Hobo 2011 Sceales Vineyard Grenache
(Alexander Valley). You’d likely never peg
this as either Grenache or Alexander Valley. With a
light, crisp mouthfeel and pure flavors of cherries and
pomegrantes, it’s likeable for its dry silkiness, and ready
to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Burt Street Cellars 2011 Grenache (Sonoma Coast). This is a tightly wound wine
that’s dry and tannic. Although it has a solid core of
cherry jam, red currant and sweet oak flavors, the texture is a little rough. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
syrah/shiraz
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Longoria 2010 Alisos Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). This is delicious, as
Longoria’s wines tend to be. It’s dry and full bodied, and
shows the firm tannins of a cool-climate Syrah. Yet it’s
also jam packed with blackberry, cassis, anise and dark
chocolate richness. Really nice now, especially a great
steak with some mushroomy additions. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $34
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Lucia 2011 Soberanes Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Lucia Highlands). This is a beautiful
Syrah that’s dry and full bodied, with dense, concentrated blackberry, cassis, smoked meat and cracked black
pepper flavors. It’s really gorgeous, but very young, with
hard tannins. Give it up to six years in the cellar, before
the fruit starts to fade away. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Clos Solene 2010 Hommage à nos Pairs
Reserve Syrah (Paso Robles). Awesomely
rich and forward with cherry and raspberry jam, chocolate and spice flavors, this high-alcohol wine fortunately
is balanced with adequate acidity, firm tannins and even
a hit of minerals. But the overall impression is of soft
fruitiness. It’s mainly Syrah, with small quantities of Grenache and Mourvèdre. —S.H.
Price: $95
abv: 15.8%
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Venteux 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Paso
Robles). This is an enormously rich, extracted wine, that’s vast in cherries, blackberries, currants,
chocolate and oak flavors. Yet it has balancing acidity
and tannins. Best now and over the next few years, especially a great barbecued steak or leg of lamb. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $46
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Adelaida 2010 Anna’s Vineyard Syrah
(Paso Robles). Earns its very good score for
sheer power and voluptuousness of fruit. It’s a soft, delicious wine with gentle tannins that frame ripe blackberry, chocolate, black pepper and oak flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Derby 2009 Derby Vineyard Syrah (Paso
Robles). Give this Syrah another year or two
in the cellar. Even though it’s a 2009, the blackberry
and cherry fruit remains startlingly fresh. Yet the acidtannin structure is balanced. Should start picking up
earthy, meaty notes by 2014. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
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Gustafson Family 2009 Logging Road
Block Estate Syrah (Dry Creek Valley).
Shows Dry Creek’s ability to produce dry, complex Syrahs of interest and sophistication. You’ll find layers of
blackberries, currants, bacon, black pepper and sweet,
toasty oak, wrapped into strong but pliable tannins. The
deliciously fresh fruit suggests popping the cork over
the next year or two. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32/375 ml
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Nickel & Nickel 2010 Darien Vineyard
Syrah (Russian River Valley). This is a good
Syrah for drinking now, with rich berry, cherry, mocha,
brown sugar and roasted meat flavors. The tannins are
brisk, and there’s a nice cut of acidity. This is far from
the winery’s best Darien Syrah, but it’s delicious. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $53
ty wine, with a good tannin-acid balance, for drinking
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
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Syrah (Carneros). Give this Syrah a few
hours of decanting and drink it now. It’s dry, full bodied and dense in blackberry, blueberry, bacon, pepper
and oak flavors. Shows real elegance and class, but not
an ager. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $40
Hawks View 2010 Syrah (California). Soft
and easy, with ripe, fruity cherry jam, cassis,
mocha and spice flavors. The tannins are strong, and
may give the wine some ageability, but you’re better off
drinking it soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $40
J. Lohr 2009 Gesture Syrah (Paso Robles). Pair this Syrah with the right food, and it
will be fantastic. The wine does need some intervention
via pairings to tame its exuberantly ripe red fruits, mocha and smoky oak. —S.H.
Price: $35
abv: 15.2%
Luli 2011 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands).
A lusty, full bodied wine, this is jammy with
blackberries and cocoa, sprinkled with pepper and
toasty oak overtones. It’s dry, severely tannic and somewhat complex, although not enough for aging. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
Sequum 2009 Kidd Ranch Syrah (Napa
Valley). It’s all about flashy, ripe berry jam, red
currant and chocolate flavors in this softly tannic wine.
Despite the impression of sweetness, the finish is dry,
and a little bitter. Hard to tell if it’s going anywhere.
Give it some decanting and drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
Azari 2008 Shiraz (Sonoma Coast). At the
age of nearly five years, this Syrah is soft, mellow and sweet. It has flavors of raspberry jam, bacon,
brown sugar and cinnamon spice. Won’t get any better,
abv: 14.6%
Price: $60
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Kaleidos 2008 Praying Mantis Syrah
(Paso Robles). Luscious blackberry and
cherry pie filling, dark chocolate and sandalwood flavors
dominate this 100% Syrah. It’s pretty tasty, but it’s high
in alcohol, with a hot mouthfeel, and feels too soft for
balance. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $55
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Kaleidos 2008 Starr Ranch Syrah (Paso
Robles). This Syrah is candied on the palate
with brown sugar and blackberry jam flavors, with a cassis liqueur headiness from high alcohol. It’s not an ager,
abv: 15.1%
Price: $45
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Muscardini 2010 Gracie Creek Vineyards
Syrah (Sonoma Valley). This is soft and
jammy, with raspberry, cherry and oak flavors. A pret-
Brochelle Vineyards 2010 Syrah (Paso
Robles). The black, inky color of this Syrah
only begins to suggest its power. The first sip explodes
with flavors of melted dark chocolate and crème de
cassis, sprinkled with black pepper. It’s a huge wine,
not particularly subtle and almost port-like in its rich,
raisiny finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
J. Lohr 2010 South Ridge Syrah (Paso
Robles). This is a little jammy with fruit, while
also a little hot, but pretty good for the price. Marked
by flavors of raspberry jam and red currants, it’s a nice,
medium-bodied and balanced wine. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Balletto 2010 Estate Syrah (Russian River Valley). Some unripe, vegetal notes lower
the score on this otherwise pleasant Syrah. They interfere with your full enjoyment of black cherries and cassis, and also make aging impossible. Drink up. —S.H.
Price: $28
abv: 14.2%
Burt Street Cellars 2011 Syrah (Sonoma
Coast). Ripe, jammy fruit, tart acidity and oak
are pretty much what you get here. It’s pretty simple
and perhaps should be better than what it is. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
Kaleidos 2008 Halter Ranch Syrah (Paso
Robles). High alcohol sticks out on this wine,
giving it a dry heat, while raisin flavors suggest a portlike overripeness. It’s not going anywhere, so drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $40
Kaleidos 2008 Lock Vineyard Syrah
(Paso Robles). Soft, fruity and alcoholic, this
Syrah tastes like a melted dessert pastry made of blackberry jam, chocolate-covered raisins, licorice and dark
honey. While the tannins are beautiful, the wine feels
hot and overripe. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $45
petite sirah
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Sirius 2010 Eaglepoint Ranch Petite Sirah (Mendocino County). Black and viscous,
this gorgeous Petite Sirah is intriguing in every way.
Opening with aromas of just-muddled mint and freshly
baked bread, this wine tastes as if wildflowers and brambly blackberry stems were placed carefully in a leather
satchel. No doubt this Petite will get even more interesting with age. —V.B.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $45
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Aaron 2009 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles).
Barbecue seems like the natural partner for this
soft, tannic, fruity wine. It’s enormous in fruit flavor,
with tiers of blackberry and cherry jam, brown sugar,
smoked meat, pepper and cedar lasting long on the fin-
WineMag.com | 29
buyingguide
ish. Gains extra points for the beauty of its balance. Will
last for many years, but drink soon for freshness. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $32
ness, it’s one-dimensional, and lacking ageworthiness.
Drink now, with sweet, smoky barbecued meats. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $45
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Cedarville Vineyard 2010 Naylor Vineyard Petite Sirah (El Dorado). A pure Petite Sirah from 36-year-old vines grown in decomposed
granite soil, this Cedarville bottling is appropriately purple-black in color, and rich with milk chocolate and licorice flavor. It’s soft with juicy tannins, and boasts a long,
luxurious finish. It’ll sit quietly in the cellar for 10–15
years, if not longer, a commanding study in the evolved
beauty of Petite Sirah. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $27
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Fields Family 2010 Petite Sirah (Lodi).
Smoky and teeth staining with savory blackberry fruit, this Petite is balanced, with a long finish,
and will get better with 3–7 years of bottling age. Think
grilled meats when pairing. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
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J. Lohr 2009 Tower Road Petite Sirah
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
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Gustafson Family 2009 East Ridge Block
Estate Petite Sirah (Dry Creek Valley). A
real success for Petite Sirah, showing the variety’s California exuberance, but never losing sight of balance
and elegance. It’s powerful with blackberry tart, cassis
and dark chocolate flavors, wrapped into powerful tannins and finishing long and dry. Your window of enjoyment should be now, with rich barbecue or roasts, and
through 2017. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Estate
Grown Petite Sirah (Lodi). For full review
see page 12.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
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Proulx 2010 Petite Sirah (Paso Robles).
Shows This wine boasts Petite Sirah’s full-bodied mouthfeel, with fuzzy tannins framing ripe, jammy
blackberries, cherries and chocolate. The alcohol is
high, but that’s Petite Sirah for you, giving it a warmth
that asks to be paired with barbecue. The addition of
Zinfandel, Syrah and Mourvèdre brings welcome complexities. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
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Trueheart 2010 Truehart Vineyard Petite
Sirah (Sonoma Valley). Shows the dark color, thick tannins and deep, concentrated flavors you expect from Petite Sirah. It’s a big gulp of blackberry jam,
espresso, dark chocolate and crushed black pepper, and
the finish is thoroughly dry. Lacks the acidic vibrancy
needed for aging, but a fine wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
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Envy 2010 Calistoga Estate Petite Sirah
(Napa Valley). This bottling has a solid track
record from Envy, but the 2010 vintage, good as it is,
is their least successful in years. While it’s luscious with
blackberry and blueberry jam, mocha and oak sweet-
EOS 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). Ripe, luscious blackberry, currant,
smoked meat and caramelized oak flavors mark this tannic, yet smooth young wine. Shows a balance that’s rare
in a Paso Petite Sirah. Give it some time in a decanter
and drink now with beef. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
and brick, Cedarville’s estate-grown Zin comes to life
in decomposed granite soils, giving the wine a satisfying and sultry profile. Enjoy this Zin in good time (3–5
years) and pair with dark, smoky meats. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $22
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River Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Trinitas 2010 Old Vine Petite Sirah (Contra Costa County). This is a linebacker wine,
at 15.7% abv, bursting with roasted coffee, licorice and
dry tannins all around. Soft, supple and round, and fully
concentrated, the finish could use a bit more harrumph.
The back label’s suggestion to pair this wine with short
ribs is a good call. —V.B.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $35
Derby 2009 Derby Vineyard Petite Sirah
(Paso Robles). This is dark, soft and sweet,
with milk chocolate, blackberry jam and raisin flavors.
It shows Petite Sirah’s firm tannins, but also its gentler,
high alcohol side, finishing with a glyceriney sweetness.
—S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $26
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Harlow Ridge 2011 Petite Sirah (Lodi).
Spicy with a layering of pepper this Lodi Petite Sirah, clocking in at only 12.5% abv, is Syrah-like
in aroma and flavor, but fully Petite in its very dry tannins. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
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Green Truck 2010 Petite Sirah (Mendocino County). Made from organic grapes,
Green Truck’s Petite has not a lot going on aromatically
and exhibits very little in the way of the variety’s profile,
tasting like generic red wine. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
zinfandel
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De Loach 2010 Nova Vineyard Zinfandel (Lake County). Though De Loach’s Lake
County Zinfandel—a regular in the producer’s line-up
of prominent wines—is a departure of form in its bigboned nature, it is entirely in keeping with its sister
wines in terms of balance. Fragrant and spicy, with a
depth of blackberry fruit, the finish is long and satisfying. This is a fine food-pairing wine. —V.B.
Price: $32
abv: 15.5%
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Gary Farrell 2010 Bradford Mountain
Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).
This 100% Zin erupts in briary, peppery wild raspberry, blueberry and cherry flavors. The tannins are firm,
and the acids crisp and savory. What a lovely Zinfandel,
made in the soft, velvety style of Merlot, but with Bradford Mountain power. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $45
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Cedarville Vineyard 2010 Estate Zinfandel (El Dorado). Juicy and dark with layers of
boysenberry and blackberry fruit, with high tones of tar
Carol Shelton 2009 Wild Thing Zinfandel
(Mendocino County). With a dollop of Carignane, also from old vines grown organically in Mendocino County, Carol Shelton’s Wild Thing ZIn is a fun
ride, rich, robust in juicy raspberry fruit, fragrant in
vanilla, balanced and approachable. In screwcap, it’s a
good bottle to grab on the way to a picnic or barbecue.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
Artezin 2011 Zinfandel (Mendocino
County). This is a satisfyingly yummy Zinfandel that’s chock block with raspberry and boysenberry
flavor, and a tannic structure that’s still in full force.
There’s softness in the mouthfeel and an easygoing finish that’s touched with cinnamon spice and chocolate. A
good wine to pair with a range of food from barbecue
ribs to pizza. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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River Valley). This wine is filled with robust
Zinny flavors, ranging from wild raspberries and red
currants to tobacco, mocha and crushed black pepper. It’s just beginning to pick up aged notes, making it
sweeter and more mellow than it would have been two
or three years ago. Kudos to Balletto for holding it back
before release. Drink now–2016. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $21
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Mettler Family Vineyards 2010 Epicenter
Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). For full review
see page 12.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $20
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Carol Shelton 2009 Monga Zin, Lopez
Vineyard Zinfandel (Cucamonga Valley).
Sourced from dry farmed, organic vines planted in
1918, Carol Shelton’s Monga is a mouthful of a wine,
layered with cinnamon spice, blueberry, chocolate and
oak, and still very concentrated and dry, with room to
grow and mellow. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $21
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Hobo 2011 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).
Hobo has a knack for taking Zinfandel’s wild,
briary personality and wrestling it to as much elegance
as a Dry Creek Zin is capable of. True to form, Hobo accomplishes that. This wine has Zin’s brambly spiciness,
and never quite overcomes its rusticity, but it is likeable.
The penetrating acidity makes it a fine partner with tomato saucy barbecued beef or chicken. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $22
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Zinfandel (Sonoma County-San Joaquin
County). Here’s a robust Zinfandel with ripe, briary
flavors and firm tannins that make it especially apt for
barbecue. It’s forward with blackberry, mulberry, mocha and spice notes that lead to a long, satisfying finish. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
especially with barbecue. It’s front loaded with black
cherry, currant, bacon and sandalwood flavors, wrapped
into smooth tannins. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
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Hidden Oak 2010 Zinfandel (Monterey
County). The texture is smooth and velvety on
this Zinfandel, but the flavors are off. You’ll find ripe
blackberry jam and currants right next to overripe raisins. Enormously high alcohol makes this wine taste like
a fruity, simple port. —S.H.
abv: 16.1%
Price: $30
Proulx 2010 Swiss Colina Zinfandel
(Paso Robles). This is a big, rich, ripe Zinfandel that tastes hotter and headier than its official alcohol reading of 14.6% abv. It’s sweet with black cherry
jam and raisins, with a chocolatey finish. Not for everyone, but a good example of the ripe Paso Robles style.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
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J. Lohr 2010 Gesture Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). This wine gives plenty of sheer Zinny
delight. The ripe, lush raspberry and blackberry flavors
have a briary edge, with notes of wild nettles that give
it a wildland personality. While the alcohol is high, it’s
in keeping with the wine’s overall structure. Drink now
with a great barbecued steak. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $25
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Haraszthy 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). Peppery and tasting of freshly picked
blackberries, Haraszthy’s old-vine Lodi Zinfandel has a
gamy, austere, dusty quality, and is more restrained than
in some years past. Pair with anything grilled. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
La Folia Winery 2010 Zinfandel (Sierra
Foothills). No shrinking violet at 15.9% abv,
La Folia’s Zin is exuberant in juicy red and black fruit,
cinnamon spice and a taste of cola. Inviting, full and
round with a softness in the mouth, the finish slips away
ever so quickly. It’s otherwise a swell example of Sierra
Foothills fruit. —V.B.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $30
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Rancho Zabaco 2011 Reserve Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). A very nice interpretation of Dry Creek Zin, this is full bodied, rich in alcohol
and briary. It shows ripe flavors of berries, currants, anise and spices, wrapped into firm tannins, and finishing
with hints of caramel. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $24
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Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Big Wood
Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). For its
bold footprint (and the amount of wood aging it went
through) this rich Zinfandel offers a depth of pleasant
berry flavor and a measured texture, with a savory edge
on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 16.1%
Price: $32
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Adelaida 2010 Michael’s Vineyard Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Massively rich and
ripe with blackberry jam, chocolate, anise and spice
flavors, this Zin doesn’t leave much to the imagination.
You can taste the California sunshine and heat in every
potent sip. The alcohol is very high, yet the wine wears
it well. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $36
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Amador Foothill Winery 2011 Clockspring Vineyard Zinfandel (Shenandoah
Valley). Amador Foothill’s Clockspring Zin is aromatically reminiscent of its Rosato, with wafts of watermelon and pomegranate and a back splash of black pepper. Young still, enjoy with light barbecue fare, such as
grilled chicken with salsa. —V.B.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $18
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EOS 2009 Estate Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This is robust and easy for drinking now,
Woodenhead 2010 Bertoli Vineyard Leras Ranches Zinfandel (Russian River
Valley). High alcohol gives this wine a jalapeño-pepper
heat, while extremely ripe grapes bring the blackberry
and cherry flavors over the line into currants, raisins and
prunes. An extreme, but classic, example of its superripe style. —S.H.
Price: $30
abv: 15.2%
Trinitas 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (El Dorado). Made from old vines, this Zin is still super tight with mouth-drying tannins, and peppery with
a base of black fruit and leather. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
Wood Family Vineyards 2010 Muy Bueno
Zinfandel (Livermore Valley). Tasting quite
sweet and soft, like a raspberry liqueur, this high-alcohol
Zinfandel is wrapped in vanilla and cinnamon tones and
would be difficult to pair with anything beyond barbecue. —V.B.
abv: 16.1%
Price: $32
Dane Cellars 2009 Los Chamizal Vineyard Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). A big, exuberant Zinfandel, this is full bodied and soft, with ripe,
briary blackberry, currant, dark chocolate, grilled meat
and spice flavors. Ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $36
Amador Cellars 2006 Westside Vineyard
Zinfandel (Amador County). Earthy and
very tight after aging 20 months in barrel and another
two years in bottle prior to release, this wine’s fruit is
slipping away, leaving behind only a pruney sourness.
—V.B.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $25
85
81
Kirkland Signature 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Sonoma County). For full review see
page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $10
85
Muscardini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard
Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This bottling
is typical of the style of Zin this vineyard produces. It’s
very high in alcohol, soft in acids, firm in tannins, and
luscious with blackberry, cherry and milk chocolate flavor. Palls after a few sips due to its glyceriney richness.
—S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $42
85
Zin 91 2011 Old Vine Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). There’s lots of fresh, savory raspberry
and cherry jam fruit in this Zin. Marked by good acids
and tannins, with a dry finish, it’s a fine wine to drink
now —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
84
Dane Cellars 2009 Old Vine Gehricke
Road Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). High alcohol gives this wine a burn, especially on the finish. It’s
also uneven in tannins, with some sticky, jagged edges. The fruit is very ripe, veering into raisins. Drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $36
84
Dane Cellars 2008 Old Vine Zinfandel
(Sonoma Valley). Break out the barbecue for
this lusty, slightly rustic Zinfandel. Brings out the variety’s briary, brambly personality, with wild berry, thyme,
pepper and currant flavors that finish hot with alcohol.
—S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $34
Brochelle Vineyards 2010 Zinfandel
(Paso Robles). Way too ripe, with the flavors
veering into raisins. The alcohol, which is 15.6% abv, really sticks out. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $32
tempranillo
91
Six Sigma 2009 Reserve Tempranillo
(Lake County). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $42
90
Fields Family 2010 Tempranillo (Lodi).
Fields Family shows its versatility with this
wine, excelling at not only Syrah and Zinfandel but
Tempranillo, too, all grown and produced in Lodi. This
one has plenty of smooth, silky mouthfeel amid layers of
bright red fruit and smoky vanilla. —V.B.
Price: $22
abv: 14.8%
88
Longoria 2010 Tempranillo (Santa Ynez
Valley). Longoria has worked with this finicky
Spanish grape variety for years, with mixed results. This
2010 is lower in alcohol than the wine has been in a long
time, which gives it a delicate mouthfeel. It’s dense in
cherries, currants, bacon and licorice, but finishes dry.
Easy to like for its soft deliciousness. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $36
87
Kenneth Volk 2009 Bella Collina Vineyard Tempranillo (Paso Robles). This is a
very nice wine, that’s sweetly delicious with cherry pie,
mocha and smoke flavors, but a little one-dimensional,
as California Tempranillos tend to be. With a light, silky
texture, it’s easy to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $36
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buyingguide
red blends
95
Von Strasser 2010 Reserve (Diamond
Mountain). For full review see page 4.
abv: NA
Price: $135
94
Capture 2010 Harmonie (Pine Mountain).
Capture continues to make progress in interpreting their vineyard located in this new appellation,
a high elevation overlooking Alexander Valley. Based on
Cabernet Sauvignon, this Bordeaux-style blend is young
now, with hard tannins that interfere with the fruit. The
fruit is intensely concentrated with cherry compote and
cassis flavors, while new oak’s vanilla and toast are proportionate to the wine’s volume. A worthy followup to
the 2009, and a wine to cellar for 8–10 years, if not longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $120
93
Capture 2010 Alliance (Pine Mountain).
Extraordinarily rich, ripe and flashy, this is a
delicious wine to drink now, although it has the tannic structure to age. It’s softly approachable with black
cherry, mocha and sweet oak, with exceptional purity and refinement. The blend is Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Will continue to evolve
positively over the next 5–6 years. —S.H.
Price: $90
abv: 13.7%
92
St. Supéry 2009 Élu Estate Bottled Red
Wine (Napa Valley). For full review see page
8.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $65
92
The Farm Winery 2009 LPF Cabernet
Sauvignon-Cabernet Franc (Paso Robles). This is a huge, complex wine, filled with currant, cocoa and dried herb flavors wrapped into dusty
tannins. It’s dry, elegant and even ageworthy. The richness is balanced by crisp acidity, like a squirt of lime
juice that makes the dark fruit dance. Drink now–2017.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
92
The Farm Winery 2009 The Big Game
(Paso Robles). As delicious and succulent as
anything out there, with black currant, blueberry and
chocolate flavors that are vastly deep and long on the
finish. Fortunately, there’s brisk acidity and fine tannins,
and despite the luscious fruit and oak, it’s dry on the finish. This blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is fully drinkable now. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
91
Daou 2010 Reserve Seventeen Forty
Cabernet Franc-Merlot (Paso Robles).
This is a Bordeaux-style blend based on Cabernet Franc
and Merlot, marked by luscious softness and ripe, forward fruit. The flavors of cherries, red currants, anise
and sandalwood are delicious and savory. It’s perfect for
drinking now with a great steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $56
90
Cedarville Vineyard 2010 Turnabout’s
(Fair Play). Cedarville’s estate-grown, Prioratinspired blend of 45% Grenache, 30% Syrah and 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon, is well made and inclined to age.
It’s still soft and oaky with a hint of leathery cassis and
game. Imagine a Spanish fiesta for this food-friendly
wine. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $39
90
Clos Solene 2009 Hommage à nos Pairs
Reserve Syrah-Grenache (Paso Robles).
This Syrah-Grenache blend is enormously rich, ripe and
heady. It wears its 16% abv well, without ever feeling
hot or awkward. Instead, fine acidity and firm tannins
give the dark chocolate and blackberry jam flavors the
balanced lusciousness of Port, without the sweetness.
—S.H.
abv: 16%
Price: $95
90
Clos Solene 2009 Ma Premiere (Paso
Robles). Blended mainly from Grenache, with
20% Syrah, this is one of the biggest, most extracted red
wines ever to come out of Paso Robles. The alcohol is a
ridiculously high 16.2% by volume, but it’s balanced the
same way that high alcohol in Port is balanced. The flavors are enormously rich with raspberry and cherry jam,
white chocolate and buttered toast. Heady and flashy in
that distinctly California mode, and made for drinking
now. —S.H.
Price: $105
abv: 16.2%
90
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2010 Straits Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles).
High alcohol and superripe fruit give this blend its personality. It’s incredibly rich and extracted with blackberry and cherry jam, anise, mocha and toast flavors,
wrapped into luxuriously soft, complex tannins. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $46
90
Marilyn 2010 Meritage (Napa Valley). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
Bogle 2010 Essential Red (California).
For full review see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
89
J. Lohr 2009 Cuvée Pom Red Wine(Paso
Robles). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
is a little high, but nothing that barbecue can’t handle.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $42
89
Sorelle Winery 2010 Russo Red Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese (Lodi). Juicy
and floral with dusty tannins, this Lodi blend of 75%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Sangiovese exhibits the
best of both worlds, with a well-integrated taste of soft
raspberry jam, cranberry and earth. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $NA
88
Clos Solene 2010 Harmonie (Paso Robles). This soft, high alcohol blend of Grenache, Mourvèdre and Syrah is marked by extremely
ripe flavors of blackberry jam and milk chocolate. It’s
technically dry but finishes with a touch of brown sugar.
Drink now for voluptuous richness. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $85
88
Envy 2010 Bee Bee’s Blend Estate (Calistoga). Round, soft and approachable now
in the California style, with ripe cherry, licorice, mocha and brown sugar flavors that last long, with a spicy
finish. Defines the delicious, drink-me-now style of a
young red wine. —S.H.
Price: $42
abv: 14.5%
88
J. Lohr 2010 Gesture (Paso Robles).
Frankly delicious, offering wave after wave of
black cherry jam, red currant, licorice, mocha, vanilla
and buttered cinnamon toast flavors, wrapped into soft,
smooth tannins. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
88
Pure Cru 2009 PureCoz (Napa Valley).
Here’s a stylish, flashy Napa red that’s ready to
drink now, even without decanting. It’s rich and layered
with blackberries, cherries and cassis, folded into sweet,
soft, complex tannins. It’s a Cabernet Sauvignon-based
Bordeaux blend with 14% Sangiovese, which seems to
add acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $65
88
J. Lohr 2008 Cuvée St. E Red Wine(Paso
Robles). For full review see page 12. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
The Farm Winery 2009 Touchy-Feely
(Paso Robles). This Rhône-style blend is
fruity and delicious. It has raspberry, cherry, licorice,
mocha and spice flavors, wrapped into easy tannins,
brightened with a bite of lime acidity. Ready to enjoy
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
89
Picazo 2008 Proprietary Red Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A blend of
two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon,
sourced both from the Livermore and Napa valleys,
PIcazo’s 2008 vintage is full bodied in cran-raspberry,
leather and herb flavors, piqued with acidity, structure
and length. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $45
88
Venteux 2010 Cuvée Estate Grown (Paso
Robles). This darkly colored, smooth blend
of Syrah and Petite Sirah is widely appealing. It’s soft
and luscious with dark chocolate, blackberry jam and
oak flavors that are heady and mouth filling. Despite an
official alcohol level of 13.2% abv, it’s feels a little hot.
—S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $48
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89
Proulx 2010 Dimples (Paso Robles). This
is an exuberant, happy wine, filled with sunny
summer flavors of cherries, blueberries and blackberries. The blend is based on Zinfandel and Grenache. It’s
rich and soft in tannins and easy to drink. The alcohol
Derby 2008 Implico (Paso Robles). Kudos
to Derby for holding this Cabernet Franc-based
blend back for so long before release. The years have
mellowed it, giving it a soft, rounded quality. Drink now
for the lush cherries and currants. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $32
87
J. Lohr 2008 Cuvée PAU (Paso Robles).
Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, this complex wine
offers layers of blackberries, black currants, blueberries
and sweet oak. The tannins are smooth, and the acidity just fine. The overall impression is a little ripe and
obvious in its appeals, but it does have a certain fanciness. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $50
87
Peju 2010 Fifty/Fifty Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Napa Valley). This blend of
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot is assertive with black
currant and chocolate flavors, but saved from being a
fruit bomb by intricate tannins and a nice hit of acidity.
The fleshy fruitiness is best enjoyed now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
87
Venteux 2010 Farmhouse Cuvée (Paso
Robles). This blend pays homage to the
Languedoc region of Southern France, but the ripe
fruit is all about California’s sunshine. This rich, jammy wine bursts in the mouth with juicy raspberry and
cherry flavors that turn a little soft on the finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $32
86
Courtney Benham 2011 Lucca Red Wine
(North Coast). For full review see page 15.
Best Buy.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
86
Ludwig 2010 Hammerklavier McIntyre
Vineyard Pinot Noir-Dornfelder (Santa Lucia Highlands). Tastes rich and forward, with
cherry pie, blueberry and sandalwood flavors. The color
is dark, and the wine is a little too soft, as well as hot in
alcohol. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
86
Minassian-Young 2010 Cuvée de Paso
(Paso Robles). The soft fruitiness of this
blend makes it ideal for sipping now with ham, broiled
chicken, or casual picnic fare. It’s not a complicated
wine to ponder over, but to enjoy for its savory raspberry jam, vanilla and cinnamon flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
86
Tess 2011 Tess Red and White Blend
(Napa Valley). This could be classified as a
red wine—it’s as dark as some Pinot Noir. But the winery recommends chilling it, so we’ll call it a blush. The
blend is not disclosed. The flavors are rich with strawberries, persimmons and limes. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
85
Austerity 2011 Proprietary Red Wine
(California). For full review see page 14.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
85
Kirkland Signature 2011 Meritage (Rutherford). For full review see page 14.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $14
84
B&E 2009 Red Rhythm (Paso Robles).
Pizza, burgers and other everyday foods that
forgive rusticity are what to drink with this ripe, highish
alcohol wine. It offers typical warm climate California
flavors of black cherry jam and mocha. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
84
Kaleidos 2008 Morpheus (Paso Robles).
Superripe berry and currant flavors veer into
overripeness, with notes of shriveled raisins, in this
blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. It’s high in
alcohol, with a hot finish. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $36
84
Pope Valley Winery 2010 Tre Uve (Napa
Valley). O.K. for everyday drinking if you want
a full-bodied, tannic, dry red wine. Shows ripe blackberry, tobacco and raisin flavors, with some bitterness in
the finish. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $25
83
Record Family Wines 2010 Randy’s Red
Grenache-Syrah (Paso Robles). A simple,
rustic wine, with jammy raspberry, red currant and cocoa flavors. There’s a metallic taste that may or may not
be related to thre screwtop. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
82
Kaleidos 2008 Osiris (Paso Robles). This
blend is based on Grenache. It has white sugar,
raspberry, caramel and spice flavors that finish as luscious as a candy bar. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $32
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Stryker Sonoma 2010 Estate Petite Verdot (Alexander Valley). Petit Verdot is normally a blending grape, but with this bottling, Stryker
has produced a very interesting and very good wine.
Like a fine Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s dark, full bodied
and tannic, filled with blackberry purée, dark chocolate
and toast flavors. Delicious now, and should age well for
many years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
90
Andis 2011 Indian Creek Vineyard Primitivo (Amador County). A solid Amador
County Primitivo from a consistently good producer
that is subtle with bright red and blue fruit with a layer
of mint and earthy cedar. Well crafted, it tastes light and
soft from start to finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
90
La Folia Winery 2011 Dolcetto (Sierra
Foothills). La Folia continues to impress with
this young bottling of Dolcetto, its light body and texture tinged with a taste of savory mint, licorice and
earth balanced against layers of sweet strawberry. Enjoy
throughout spring and summer with antipasto —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
89
Minassian-Young 2010 Tannat (Paso Robles). For full review see page 12l.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
89
Uvaggio 2011 Primitivo (Lodi). A great
price for this well-made Primitivo, Uvaggio
opens with juicy, bright red raspberry and dark cherry flavor, stays light through the mid palate and finishes
with a long lingering streak of vanilla. Dry and fresh, it’ll
pair perfectly with thin-crust pizza topped with basil out
of the garden. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $16
89
Venteux 2010 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles).
Mourvèdre is a very difficult variety to get right,
but Venteux’s 2010 is right up there with the state’s best.
It’s dry and medium bodied, with complex cherry, mocha, licorice and bacon flavors, wrapped into smooth
tannins. Might even gain some traction with 2–3 years
in the cellar. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $32
86
Minassian-Young 2010 Mourvèdre (Paso
Robles). This soft, gentle wine is ready to
drink now with umami-rich meats, especially charcuterie. It has very rich flavors of raspberry jam, baking spices and toast. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
82
Kenneth Volk 2010 Pomar Junction Vineyard Touriga Nacional (Paso Robles). This
variety is one of the traditional Port grapes. It should do
well as a dry wine in the hotter areas of California, but
no one has figured out how to make it happen. This bottling by Kenneth Voik does not advance the cause. The
wine is heavy and dull. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $36
dessert wines
88
B&E 2006 Que Sera Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Paso Robles). The alcohol on
this dessert wine is very high, which gives the wine a
hot, glyceriney taste. But the blackberry jam and chocolate fruit easily stands up to it. The result is vaguely
Port-like, and sweet, but crisp with acidity, and made for
abv: 20%
Price: $30/375 ml
87
Gustafson Family 2010 Late Harvest Estate Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Very
sweet, with white sugar, raspberry, chocolate and sweet
vanilla bean flavors, enriched with the glycerine of high
alcohol. There’s fine acidity and tannins, yet the fruity
concentration falls short. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 18.7%
Price: $20/375 ml
86
Clos Solene 2010 Sweet Clémentine Grenache (Paso Robles). Sweet with raspberry
jam, cherry liqueur and vanilla cream flavors, this is a
good dessert wine. But it could be a lot better if it were
more intense. The finish trails off a little. —S.H.
Price: $65/375 ml
abv: 15.5%
oregon
chardonnay
92
BlackCap 2010 Chardonnay (Dundee
Hills). Sourced from the oldest vines in the
Willamette Valley, just two barrels were made of this
wine. It’s smooth, rich and elegant—a mix of pineapple and citrus—with light hints of coconut and toast.
There’s good concentration in the finish, heightened
with citrus rind phenolics. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
91
J. Christopher 2011 Cuvée Lunatique
Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Neither
WineMag.com | 33
buyingguide
oak aging nor malolactic fermentation was used here,
hence the name. But far from madness, this wine is
sleek, sensual, skillful and seductive. Crisp acidity, lemony minerality, an overriding freshness and excellent
depth of flavor all combine to create a wine that seems
to be more than the sum of its parts. Shellfish, light seafood, poultry and even pork dishes would be fine matches. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
88
The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Estate Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This fine-honed
Chardonnay hews to the Eyrie house style. It may seem
austere at first, but the green and yellow fruit flavors
are ripe, not vegetal, and the firm acidity makes it a fine
food match. Give it plenty of time to breathe before
serving. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
83
Wy’East Vineyards 2012 Chardonnay
(Columbia Gorge). Almost clear in color, this
is an overtly floral Chardonnay that also displays notes
of pear and ale that make it seem not entirely finished.
—S.S.
Price: $18
abv: 11.8%
pinot gris
92
The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Original Vines
Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills). Unique in style
and sourced—these are the oldest Pinot Gris vines
in the country—this young, yeasty, textural wine will
surely continue to improve in the bottle. Give it a lot
of breathing time, and complex layers of rock and fruit
unfold. Jicama, cucumber, daikon radish...You get the
idea. It tastes as clean and fresh as a mountain spring.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
91
Château Bianca 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Lovely tree fruits and a hint
of honeycomb come through in this well-balanced Pinot Gris. It offers both easy drinkability and surprising
depth of flavor, with a lingering finish that should cost
you significantly more. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
89
The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Pinot Gris
(Dundee Hills). Pretty aromas of citrus blossom and rind lead into puckery fruit flavors. There’s a
finishing twist of grapefruit and orange peel, good balance, and a bit more acidity than is customary even for
this producer. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
86
Pyrenees 2011 Pinot Gris (Umpqua Valley). An aromatically reticent wine with notes
of mineral, apple, and spice. It drinks just a hair off-dry
with tart green apple flavors and sharp edged acids making for a pleasant summer afternoon sipper. —S.S.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $20
86
Wy’East Vineyards 2012 Pinot Gris (Columbia Gorge). Fermented and aged in stainless steel, this is a lightly aromatic Gris with red apple
and apple blossom. It’s full bodied with a touch of re-
sidual sugar and a zip of acidity. A light ale note makes it
seem not entirely finished. —S.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $18
bodied in feel with lemony acids but wants a bit more
concentration to keep it together. —S.S.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $22
85
Hedgeline 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). A
soapy scent marks the entry, and it is followed
by a simple, fruity wine, that retains a slightly soapy
aspect through the palate. There’s a floral finish also;
perhaps a splash of Gewürztraminer was added to the
blend? —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
85
84
Torii Mor 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Thin and sour, this offers little enjoyment.
Lemon juice flavors lack flesh and substance. Best for
shellfish or perhaps a mussel stew. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $18
84
Pyrenees 2011 Riesling (Umpqua Valley). This is single vineyard Riesling with notes
of apple cider, spice and lees. It offsets 2.8% Residual
Sugar with tart, electric acidity but doesn’t quite have
the depth of flavors to match. —S.S.
abv: 11.4%
Price: $18
other white wines
84
91
J. Christopher 2011 Croft Vineyard ÜberSauvignon Sauvignon Blanc (Willamette
Valley). This is pure Sauvignon Blanc, fermented in
acacia barrels. Intense and grassy, with a deep splash
of citrus and a long, tangy finish. A Sauv Blanc for those
who love the grape in its most dense and unadorned expression. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
Price: $35
abv: 13%
Torii Mor 2011 Pinot Blanc (Yamhill-Carlton District). Slightly soapy in the nose, this
enters softly, then turns sharp and slightly bitter. Hints
of melon and butter emerge, but the mouthfeel is somewhat disjointed and the flavors not yet fully integrated.
—P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $20
RoxyAnn 2010 Viognier (Rogue Valley).
Barrel fermentation and aging (20% new) puts
the wood at the fore here with notes of vanilla and oak
spice along with white peach. It’s viscous and oily with
the alcohol showing prominently. —S.S.
Price: $22
abv: 14.6%
pinot noir
90
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Château Bianca 2011 Riesling (Willamette Valley). Wonderfully fragrant and pretty, this delicately-made Riesling mixes candied pineapple, honeyed lemon, and pekoe tea flavors to good effect. It’s a perfect late spring porch pounder. Best Buy.
—P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
The Eyrie Vineyards 2011 Pinot Blanc
(Dundee Hills). Distinctive aromas of beeswax and bee pollen continue with similar flavors,
wrapped around tart yellow apple fruit. It’s lovely, fragrant and ageworthy, in a high-acid Euro mold, but give
it plenty of time to breathe. Decanting is a good idea.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
88
J. Christopher 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Willamette Valley). This clean, fresh, bracingly grassy wine makes you wish there were more Sauv
Blancs from the Willamette Valley. It has the crisp elegance of the Loire, along with a delicate suggestion of
chalk. —P.G.
Price: $18
abv: 13%
87
Château Bianca 2011 Gewurztraminer
(Willamette Valley). Crisp, clean and most
refreshing, this marries citrus and green apple fruit to
vivacious acidity. Though not especially aromatic, it’s a
well-made, low alcohol, dry white wine that will work
quite well with more delicate seafood. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Pyrenees 2011 Semillon (Umpqua Valley). This 100% varietal wine is lightly aromatic with notes of fig and fresh spun cotton. It’s medium
Dr. Loosen & J. Christopher 2007 Appassionata Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
Dense and extracted, this dark, loamy Pinot Noir is concentrated and challenging. The fruit is black, compact,
and sheathed in flavors of loam. Layers are tight and a
bit unyielding. There is depth and power here, but it
must be extracted over time and with a bit of patience.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
King Estate 2009 Domaine Pinot Noir
(Oregon). Ignore its generic Oregon AVA this is King Estate’s top wine, a rich reserve-level Pinot Noir redolent with Asian spices, saffron, cumin and
more. Nuances of dusty cocao powder lead into a thrilling wine with a spine of steel, focusing its ripe, fleshy
fruit through a long, cellar-worthy finish. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
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The Eyrie Vineyards 2000 Marguerite Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This exceptional
wine was made by the late David Lett to celebrate the
birth of his granddaughter. It’s drinking beautifully, and
has the color and scent of a mature wine, though Eyrie
Pinots can often live longer than those who bet against
them. Delicate and subtle, it nonetheless shows surpassing power and length. Mature, fully-evolved dried
fruit and herb flavors are highlighted with notes of cinnamon and brown sugar. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $85
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King Estate 2010 Old School Vineyards
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a
marvelous wine, both elegant and complex, with intriguing scents of bacon, butter and chocolate woven
around rich cherry fruit. The fine tannins and overall
balance proceed through a lingering finish that carries
a pleasing suggestion of well-tanned leather. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $55
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The Eyrie Vineyards 2010 Original Vines
Reserve Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).
Though generally tight and backward upon release, Eyrie Pinots have an astonishing track record for ageability. This beautifully-defined effort should be no exception. Beet root, cranberry and dusty spices are hung on
a crystal frame. Tasted blind, it might pass for a very fine
young Barbaresco. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
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King Estate 2010 Hyland Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Lovely aromatics
introduce this subtly powerful Pinot Noir. Floral highlights lead into tart cherry fruit that seems to gather
strength as it flows across the palate. There are hints
of mineral and a splash of coffee in the lingering finish.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
Price: $55
abv: 13%
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Owen Roe 2010 Durant Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). A mix of rose petals and
cherry blossoms wafts up from the glass, introducing a
delightfully silky Pinot Noir that adds layer upon layer
of interest as it runs across the tongue. Polished, slightly
dusty, with pretty cherry fruit at the core, this adds highlights of cinnamon and cocoa powder through a long,
smooth, elegant finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
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J. Christopher 2010 Abbey Ridge Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This wellloved vineyard brings old vine complexity into play.
The brambly berry fruit is enhanced with lighter notes
of earth and compost, cola and a dash of brown sugar.
The acids are bright and citrusy, with a pineapple tang.
—P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
against a backdrop of wet rock, characterizes this young
Pinot Noir. The brightness and delicate definition suggests that there are unseen layers of flavor lurking beneath the youthful shell. Give this at least a half decade
in the cellar. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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King Estate 2009 Blackjack Block Pinot
Noir (Oregon). Made from single (777) clone,
organically-grown grapes, the Blackjack Block Pinot
Noir is focused and complex. The mid-palate shows
flesh and fat, ripe berry and cherry fruit, with a backing of citrusy acids. Its middle is its strength; it would
benefit from blending to add more depth to both front
and back. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
Torii Mor 2010 Olson Estate Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Best of show at Torii Mor in 2010, the Olson Estate bottling is full-bodied
with brambly berry fruit at its core. Notes of pepper,
poppy seed and tangy citrus are threaded throughout,
and the wine has medium-term aging potential. —P.G.
Price: $60
abv: 13.3%
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Bernau
Block Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For
abv: 12.3%
Price: $45
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Iota Cellars 2010 Pelos Sandberg Pinot
Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). A good effort in a
challenging vintage. This has a warm core of round,
pretty cherry fruit, with a dash of bitters, sassafras and
caramel. It persists through the middle into a Dr. Pepper finish, with details of herb and earth. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $38
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J. Christopher 2010 Lia’s Vineyard Unfiltered Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains).
abv: 13%
Price: $50
J. Christopher 2010 Dundee Hills Cuvée
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Introduced by a
lovely nose of cola and strawberries, this nicely-blended barrel selection from several Dundee Hills vineyards
fills the mouth with soft, plush Pinot goodness. The acids taste natural and balanced, the tannins are tight and
proportionate, and the finish gentle and clean. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
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King Estate 2010 Freedom Hill Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). Freedom Hill is one of
the most-admired vineyards in the Willamette Valley,
and this elegant wine does it full justice. A beguiling mix
of roses, chocolate, berry and sandalwood, it tickles the
nose and tongue with its precision and deceptive depth
of flavor. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
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Owen Roe 2010 The Kilmore Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). This delightful bottle opens gracefully with lush aromatics, showing snap and complexity. The palate mixes red fruits
with hints of seed, grain, pepper and pretty herbs. It’s
long and seamless, with a coffee streak across the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $42
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J. Christopher 2010 Olenik Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Tightly-defined raspberry fruit, with sharp and vivid acidity
a cool site in the Coastal Range, this has a powerful
streak of grapefruit both in the fruit and the acidity. It’s
sharp but interesting, with pine needle highlights and
rhubarb/cranberry fruit. It has the structure to age, and
would be an interesting wine to follow over the next decade or so. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
J. Christopher 2010 Lumière Pinot Noir
(Eola-Amity Hills). Pinots from this AVA have
a bit of an herbal edge which, in good hands, can help
to define and frame the cool climate fruit flavors. Here
is a mix of plum and wild berry, the purple fruit set
against balancing tannins that carry that hint of earth
and heather. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
J. Christopher 2010 Sandra Adele Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Flavors of cola
and black cherry mingle seamlessly, in a forward, lightly floral wine. It has less power and muscle than many
Dundee Hills Pinots, but that’s not to criticize; the fruit
is excellent and the wine has both texture and balance.
The acidity is striking as well, with a finishing impression of grapefruit. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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Acrobat 2011 Pinot Noir (Oregon). The
Acrobat bottling is one of Oregon’s best sub-$20
Pinot Noirs, and a fine example of what might be called
“new wave” styling. It’s sleek, nervy, built on a spine of
steel rather than wood. The bright berry fruit carries
a pleasing hint of chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
Château Bianca 2011 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Here’s a most Burgundian, delicate Willamette Valley Pinot Noir at a price that can
sometimes deliver clumsy, thin, and/or vegetal flavors.
This has varietally-true detail, clean fruit and delightful
nuances of citrus, dried herb and rose petals. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
Price: $17
abv: 12.5%
J. Christopher 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A fine entry-level Pinot Noir to
introduce J. Christopher’s expansive single vineyard offerings. This is balanced and true to variety, with clean
Pinot cherry cola fruit flavor. There is just a delicate
sense of underlying earth and leaf, adding some welcome complexity. Drink over the next 3–5 years. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
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J. Christopher 2010 Nuages Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). A blend of grapes
from several vineyards, this is named for a famous jazz
tune. The blending both softens and expands the midpalate, and seems to have boosted the aging curve. It’s
ready to drink, with strawberry fruit, a dusting of cocoa,
a hint of wet cement, and a finish with cola and sassafras. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
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King Estate 2009 Backbone Pinot Noir
(Oregon). This broad, muscular blend is
sourced from seven vineyards and aged for 18 months
in French oak. It’s relatively open and fruity, with berries, earth and spice all in proportion through a gentle
fade. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
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Torii Mor 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This
light, pretty, blended Pinot Noir trumps the
winery’s pricier cuvées in 2010. Strawberry candy fruit
flavors are enhanced with light streaks of toast and baking spices, and hints of rose petals elevate the finish.
A simple, delightful bottle for near term enjoyment.
—P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $24
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Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Tualatin Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
Crisply defined, this cuvée, from a vineyard well to the
north in the Willamette Valley, has highlights of pine
King Estate 2010 Pfeiffer Vineyards Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Sourced from
WineMag.com | 35
buyingguide
and herb. The fruit is a mix of pomegranate and orange
peel, sharp and penetrating. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
this remains stiff and unyielding, with tart cranberry
fruit and sharp acids. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $55
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King Estate 2011 Signature Collection Pinot Noir (Oregon). It’s not clear what differentiates this cuvée from the winery’s Acrobat bottling.
Both are Oregon AVA blends and produced in large (for
Oregon) quantities. The Signature is a light, delicate
wine, with tangy cranberry/cherry fruit and details of
stem and herb. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $27
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2011 Whole
Cluster Fermented Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Released young, this fresh and citrusy wine is
all about the fruit. Full in the mouth, it quickly settles
into a cherry vanilla mid-palate, and sails on through a
clean finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
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Torii Mor 2010 Deux Verres Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The Deux
Verres reserve spent 16 months in a mix of new, used
and neutral oak. Compact and stubbornly unyielding,
its tart red fruit is thinly layered with herbal tannins and
sharp acidity. A couple more years of bottle age could
help soften it up. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $35
Torii Mor 2010 Dundee Hills Select Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). The 2010 Select is a
step ahead of Torii Mor’s single vineyard offerings, but
holds to the common thread of hard, tart, tight wines
with little flesh on their bones. Here the raspberry and
strawberry fruit pokes through the herbs and tannins
enough to warrant drinking sooner while waiting for the
others to (possibly) soften up. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
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Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Estate
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This wine
is medium-bodied, with slightly briny flavors of cherry,
earth and herb. It’s balanced and holds interest, with
a clear emphasis on the herbal aspect of Oregon Pinot
Noir. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Aberrant Cellars 2011 Confero Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). This young Pinot is tight
and stubbornly hard, showing some rhubarb and pepper scented fruit, with just a hint of raspberry. It’s underscored with a quick, slightly chalky, tannic finish.
—P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $35
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Primarius 2011 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Pale
in color with a pink/orange tinge, this is an aromatically appealing wine with notes of strawberry, sour
cherry, cedar, and mint. It’s delicate and light with tart
fruit flavors. —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
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Torii Mor 2010 La Colina Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). This has a hard shell
keeping it closed down, despite hours of airing. Cranberry fruit with a hint of mineral seems to quickly hit a
wall and stop short. More bottle age may help to open
it up a bit. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
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Torii Mor 2010 Nysa Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). A drop in alcohol by more
than a full percent since the excellent 2009 Nysa was
released suggests that this vintage did not achieve optimal ripeness. Bitter upon entry, with a medicinal note,
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Elton
Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Like its stablemates, the Elton bottling has dropped more than a
point of alcohol in 2010, and the winery’s lineup overall tilts toward the thin and herbal. Here the cranberry
fruit shows little charm. There’s a spine of iron and a finish amply loaded with flavors of herb and earth. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
Wy’East Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir (Columbia Gorge). Fermented in one ton French
oak fermenters, this estate grown Pinot Noir from 1980s
plantings has notes of cherry, char, and butterscotch.
The fruit is on the lighter side of medium bodied with
the wood just a bit too heavy for the wine that’s in the
glass. —S.S.
abv: 12.1%
Price: $39
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Cottonwood Winery of Oregon 2011 Marina Piper Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
This sports a smoky aroma, wrapped into tight, tart red
fruits. There is an ashy undertone, and somewhat granular tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Willamette Valley Vineyards 2010 Signature Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
Some light Graham cracker aromas come up quickly,
but in the mouth the wine all but disappears. Watery
and thin, it shows little promise of further improvement. —P.G.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $50
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Cubanisimo Vineyards 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Thin, awkward
and excessively herbal, this sour wine seems barely ripe.
—P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $28
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Cubanisimo Vineyards 2010 Rumba Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This pale, watery wine is herbal and sour. It seems barely ripe, with
accents of pine needle and very tart, light fruit. —P.G.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $19
other red wines
89
RoxyAnn 2009 Claret Red Blend (Rogue
Valley). Made from all six Bordeaux varieties,
this estate grown blend only hits a few notes but hits
them persistently and deliciously with milk chocolate,
dried cherry, and herbs. It’s soft and silky and lingers on
the finish. —S.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $26
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Obsidian 2011 Tempranillo (Oregon).
Purple and plum in color, this delivers plummy fruit and graphite, or charcoal dust, in the tannins.
It’s bone dry and straightforward, clean and balanced.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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RoxyAnn 2009 Cabernet Franc (Rogue
Valley). Including nearly a quarter Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot, and Malbec, this estate grown Cabernet Franc is a bit aromatically muted but brings juicy
cherry and butterscotch flavors and soft, plush tannins.
—S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Obsidian 2010 Syrah (Oregon). This Oregon Syrah has a deep, dark purple hue, and
leads with sappy berry fruit. It quickly thins out in the
mid-palate and turns a little watery, with earthy, slightly
green tannins. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
washington
riesling
92
Figgins 2012 Estate Riesling (Walla Walla Valley). Sold through the wine club. Excellent concentration in this ripe, full-bodied Riesling. It
delivers a boat-load of fruit flavors, explosive aromatics
and marvelous length. Citrus, peach and pear fruit is
underscored with delicate minerality. Juicy, sappy and
long. —P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $30
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the Ghost in the Machine 2011 Riesling
(Columbia Valley). How do you make a Riesling this good and sell it for seven bucks? Juicy and
fruity, it’s absolutely loaded with citrus and stone fruit
flavors, but offers supporting acidity, good length, and a
touch of minerality. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $7
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Zero One Vintners 2011 Golden Delicious
Riesling (Columbia Valley). In 2011, the
fifth vintage of this Riesling, the alcohol is down a bit, as
is the price. It remains quintessentially fruity, done in a
tangy/tart sweet and sour style. Juicy apple, kiwi, peach
and pear flavors fill the mouth in a most satisfying style,
perfect for front porch sipping. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 11.9%
Price: $13
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StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Riesling
(Columbia Valley). Something seems off
here, or perhaps it is just a young wine throwing off
some bottling aromas. In any event, it’s thin, simple and
sugary, without the complexity of the excellent 2010.
—P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
viognier
93
Stottle 2011 Elerding Vineyard Viognier (Yakima Valley). A precise, detailed and
thoroughly exemplary Viognier. It’s both thick and racy,
loaded with ripe, rich tree fruits, with lemon drop citrus
and a lick of lightly honeyed butterscotch. Luscious and
lingering. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $24
still shows a lightly yeasty character, along with highlights of honey graham cracker. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
with a touch of marshmallow sweetness to cut the acid.
—P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Stevens 2011 StevensDivio Viognier (Yakima Valley). Sourced from the Dineen vineyard in the heart of the Yakima valley, this cool site in a
cool vintage puts the emphasis on botanical aromatics
and a vivid, penetrating palate of citrus skin and flesh.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
McCrea Cellars 2010 Ciel du Cheval
Vineyard Viognier (Red Mountain). Blended with 11% Roussanne, this high-toned effort mixes
Meyer lemon and grapefruit with broader fruit flavors
of pear and peach. It’s got alcohol listed at 14.6%—not
unusual for Viognier, but it does bring on some heat in
the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $25
chardonnay
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L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Light flavors of butterscotch and
toast are wrapped into a broad, palate-coating wine with
ripe yellow fruits. It’s fresh and lively, and drinking especially well in its youth. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Zero One Vintners 2011 Parison Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). This is sourced
from several Milbrandt vineyards, and a blend of both
barrel (one third) and tank (two thirds) fermented
grapes. It’s soft and creamy, with melon, green banana
and other light tropical fruits. A pleasant, easy-drinking
quaffer, it finishes with a lick of vanilla custard. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). For full review see
page 16. Best Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Geoff Tate 2011 Insania White SemillonSauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). The
Insania White is 90% Semillon, 10% Sauvignon Blanc,
and made at Three Rivers for heavy metal rocker Geoff
Tate. The 2011 is round and fruity, with flavors of fig,
apple and pear. It’s a forward, juicy wine, quite tasty, but
without the edgy depths of the 2010. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Kamiak 2011 Windust White (Washington). This blended white—a sweetish mix of
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and
Riesling—has a honeyed character that suggests that at
least some of the grapes may have been touched with
botrytis. Regardless, look for that sugary, honeyed flavor
to dominate. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $11
other white wines
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Stevens 2011 AFinalThought Sauvignon
Blanc (Yakima Valley). Sadly, this is the last
vintage for this Klipsun vineyard-sourced Sauvignon
Blanc. It’s a fine send-off, a buttery, caramel-soaked
take on the grape, with rich fruit flavors of Meyer lemon and light tropical. A deep and damaging freeze cut
the crop by more than 80%, and the vines have been
pulled. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $20
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L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Semillon (Columbia
Valley). No one in Washington makes better
Semillon at this price. Dry and subtle, it benefits from
blending with 10% Sauvignon Blanc, showing bright
citrus rind, light toast, and excellent length. Best Buy.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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L’Ecole No. 41 2011 Estate Luminesce
Seven Hills Vineyard (Walla Walla Valley).
For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
McCrea Cellars 2010 Boushey Vineyard
Grenache Blanc (Yakima Valley). Grenache Blanc is a newcomer to the Northwest, and what
little exists is rarely offered in a varietal wine. Here it’s
spicy and phenolic, with sharp definition. Green apple
and diverse yellow fruits are in the mix, with a hint of
mineral and plenty of bracing acidity. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
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white blends
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Sirocco Blanc (Yakima Valley). The blend
of these four Rhône white grapes—47% Grenache
Blanc, 32% Marsanne, 16% Roussanne, 5% Picpoul—
outshines their individual bottlings. Some sort of magic
accrues. The Sirocco is supple, creamy and packed with
aromas and flavors of citrus blossom, flesh and rind. It’s
got a peaches-and-cream mouthfeel, and a lick of butterscotch in the lush finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
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Bunchgrass 2011 Whispering Owl (Columbia Valley). A welcome addition to the
Bunchgrass lineup, this white Bordeaux-style blend is
one third barrel-fermented Semillon, two thirds tankfermented Sauvignon Blanc. The ripe and textural fruit
Marsanne (Yakima Valley). This is just the
second varietal bottling of Marsanne—single vineyard
at that—from McCrea. Firm and fleshy, with clear melon flavors, it shows a dash of cinnamon along the way.
The finish brings on graham cracker accents, though
only neutral oak was used. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Zero One Vintners 2011 Copper Lily Sauvignon Blanc (Columbia Valley). This is a
broadly fruity, wide open style with fresh melon, pink
grapefruit and orange marmalade flavors criss-crossing
the palate. It’s ready to enjoy right now, low in alcohol,
Canoe Ridge 2012 The Expedition Pinot
Gris Pinot Gris (Horse Heaven Hills). This
wine is straight down the fairway, clean and simple with
medium to full bodied yellow apple notes and a touch of
residual sugar. —S.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
rosé
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Waterbrook 2012 Sangiovese Rosé (Columbia Valley). Pale salmon colored, this is a
straightforward summer sipper with notes of cherry, watermelon, and wet stone. It drinks dry with a hint of effervescence and tart flavors. —S.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
cabernet franc
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Dusted Valley 2010 Cabernet Franc (Columbia Valley). This is a lovely Cabernet
Franc, polished and clean. It’s wound tight, with black
fruits and firm, pencil lead tannins. There’s a dash of
clean earth, good length, and some softening of the
mid-palate from the addition of 18% Merlot. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
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Stevens 2010 StevensFranc Cabernet
Franc (Yakima Valley). Tasted pre-release,
this is clearly ready for prime time. It’s both compact
and generous, with a core of wild berries soaked in minerals. The words lucid and crystalline come to mind—
rarely applied to a red wine, let alone Cab Franc. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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Animale 2010 Cabernet Franc (Yakima
Valley). Aged in both neutral oak and glass, despite a total production of 16 cases, this is the ultimate
mini-micro boutique wine. Dusky cranberry and raspberry fruit shows a strong, underlying mineral/concrete
note. Good length, and its tart youthful flavors suggest
more time in bottle will improve it. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Revelry 2010 Weinbau Vineyard Block
13 Clone 2 Cabernet Franc (Wahluke
Slope). Wine doesn’t get much more specific than this
single block, single clone 100% Cabernet Franc from
Weinbau Vineyard. Unfortunately the wood (100% new
French) gets in the way of the herb, cherry, and floral
aromas and flavors. —S.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $52
cabernet sauvignon
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Doubleback 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). This is a heavy-duty
Cabernet, big in every way, with rich black cherry and
cassis fruit, and dense, dark tannins. The long, slightly grainy finish reinforces the impression of raw power,
yet the wine retains perfect proportion and is nicely dif-
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buyingguide
ferentiated from the other 2010s crafted by winemaker
Chris Figgins. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $89
finish. For people interested in seeing what aged wine
tastes like, they’ve done the work for you here. —S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
a dominant flavor. At the core is tart red berry fruit and a
wash of dark chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Gorman 2009 The Bully Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). The 2009 Bully includes 10% Petit Verdot. It’s seamless and complete, a
firm, muscular, dark, smoky/earthy Cab with substantial
tannins. The deeply powerful black fruits have a vivid
presence and a slightly roasted character. This is a big
bruiser, but beautifully proportioned. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $45
Leonetti Cellar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). For full review see page
abv: 14.3%
Price: $90
93
Stevens 2009 XY Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Yakima Valley). The XY Reserve
from Stevens is the best of an outstanding lineup of cellar-worthy, Yakima Valley red wines. Both elegant and
powerful, it opens with a well-finessed bouquet of funk,
fruit and flowers. The mid-palate brings compact black
fruits, beautifully-structured with firm acids and fine
tannins. This may be decanted and enjoyed immediately, or cellared indefinitely. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
Price: $45
abv: 14.7%
92
Den Hoed 2009 Andreas Cabernet Sauvignon Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon from Wallula Vineyard, this brooding wine
screams of the Horse Heaven Hills with notes of dusty
earth, black currant, and bittersweet chocolate. It’s
tightly coiled and largely about structure with its firm
tannins supporting concentrated cherry flavors. Needs
time to come into its own but has the stuffing to lay
down for a decade or more. Cellar Selection. —S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
91
Dusted Valley 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Columbia Valley). A bright, tart, spicy wine
with plenty of grip and detail, this threads flavors of
herb, stem and earth into the substantial blackberry and
cassis fruit. It’s nicely woven together, penetrating and
punchy. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $35
91
Nodland Cellars 2009 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This rich,
dark and earthy wine is pure Cabernet Sauvignon, done
well and designed to appeal to those who favor dark barrel flavors along with their ripe fruit. Here, the flavors
begins at licorice and runs through espresso, cacao and
a finish of lightly charred tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
90
Den Hoed 2004 Andreas Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). 100% Wallula Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon,
this first vintage from Den Hoed was held for almost a
full nine years before its release. It shows its age with
dried cherries and raisins accented by medicine cabinet notes. The palate is in full bloom with rich, rounded
flavors and chalky tannins leading to a cranberry filled
Nodland Cellars 2008 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is pure
Cabernet Sauvignon, with pretty, ripe berry and plum
fruit flavors in abundance. The toasty frame, medium
tannins and hints of dried leaf add to the overall composition of this nicely-balanced, limited-production wine.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
Bunchgrass 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from old vines
at Windrow and the less-well-known (but excellent) Tokar vineyard, this pure Cabernet Sauvignon shows a
tight mix of plum, cassis, olive and earth, underscored
by sharp acidity. It’s young and substantial, with some
heat in a finish marked by slightly bitter phenolics.
—P.G.
Price: $42
abv: 14.5%
89
Zero One Vintners 2009 Wild Sky Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This is
the last Wild Sky to be crafted by now-departed winemaker Gordy Hill. It’s a full-on Bordeaux blend, 88%
Cabernet Sauvignon, with the other four grapes filling
in the rest. Substantial and mouth-filling, it displays a
mix of black fruits, black olive, and Italian herbs. The
mouthfeel is satisfying and the finish edged with dark
chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
87
Amavi Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from five excellent Walla Walla vineyards, this wine spent about 15
months in barrel, one quarter new. It has dried cherry
fruit, almost like an Amarone in style, though with no
sweetness. Tannins are drying and finish with a slight
bitterness. Tasted twice from different bottles. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $29
85
Canoe Ridge 2011 The Expedition Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Sauvignon
(Horse Heaven Hills). Quite light in color with notes
of raspberry, medicine cabinet, and light herbs. It coats
that palate with a waxy feel supported by rustic tannins.
—S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
83
StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet
Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). A spritzy
wine, with strongly herbal flavors. There isn’t much in
the way of fruit, just stems and herbs and chalky tannins. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $10
carmenère
90
Nodland Cellars 2009 Avant Garde Carmenère (Walla Walla Valley). Along with
the Carmenère from Reininger, this stylish example belongs in the cellar of anyone with a hunger for this unusual variety. The green olive/herbal nature of the grape
is carefully managed, and provides a nuance rather than
Reininger 2009 Seven Hills Vineyard Carmenère (Walla Walla Valley). Reininger’s
Carmenère is again at the top of the (rather small) heap
of Washington examples, taming the usual green, herbal edge just enough with well-ripened, brambly berry
fruit. There’s a touch of white pepper in the finish, another indication that this late-ripening grape was picked
at just the right moment. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $48
Clearwater Canyon 2010 Phinny Hill
Vineyard Carmenère (Washington). This
single vineyard Carmenere from the Horse Heaven Hills is 100% varietal with notes of freshly cut bell
pepper and cherry. It’s tart fruit flavors are backed by
(quite) dry, grainy tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
malbec
92
Dusted Valley 2010 Malbec (Columbia
Valley). Dusted Valley is really rockin’ it in
2010, with outstanding varietal releases of Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and this yummy Malbec.
A big entry brings blackberry and cassis into the palate,
with peppery highlights. Nice details of herb and tobacco are found, as the wine seems to get more powerful the longer it lingers in the mouth. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
92
Reininger 2009 Malbec (Walla Walla Valley). Though it’s not mentioned on the label,
the Malbec is sourced from the Pepper Bridge vineyard, and compares favorably with high end Argentine
versions. Yummy and deep, its sweet berry flavors are
matched to firm, polished tannins, and finished with a
touch of pretty toast. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $53
90
Stevens 2010 Timley Malbec (Yakima Valley). This is a sleek Malbec, adorned with generous baking spices around a firm core of wild blueberry fruit. It’s brambly and attention-grabbing, with good
length and a bit of dark chocolate in the finish. —P.G.
Price: $30
abv: 14%
88
Three Rivers 2010 Malbec (Columbia
Valley). Once past a surprisingly minty open,
this stiff and earthy Malbec tightens up into a Bordeauxlike cocoon. It’s an austere wine, that slowly reveals dark
cassis fruit, dried herbs, and a finishing whiff of coconut.
Give it plenty of breathing time, or decant. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $29
merlot
93
Leonetti Cellar 2011 Merlot (Walla Walla
Valley). This is 100% varietal Merlot, aged 15
months in new and neutral French oak barrels and botti. It’s tangy, sleek and supple, with a spectrum of fruit
from cranberry on through blackberry. Tannins are polished and mouth-coating, with substantial power. The
finish brings hints of herbs and black olives. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
91
Reininger 2009 Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Spicy and still showing some youthful
sharpness, this pure Merlot is loaded with penetrating
raspberry fruit, juicy and tart. The mouth-cleaning acidity both sharpens the palate and intensifies the flavors,
and leads into a finish dotted with super dark chocolate.
—P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $39
91
Stevens 2010 Merlot (Yakima Valley). Tim
Stevens showcases Yakima Valley terroir as well
as any winemaker in the state. This is sourced from the
DuBrul and Meek vineyards, and it is remarkably complex, though still tight and tart. The dark fruits are highlighted with toast and baking spices, along with clove
and ginger. Look for this to be a 10+ year Merlot. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
Price: $30
abv: 14.6%
87
Gordon Estate 2009 Estate Grown Merlot
(Columbia Valley). There’s plenty of toasty
oak flavor (the wine spent 27 months in barrel) along
with pretty raspberry and cherry fruit. Dark notes come
in with the tannins—smoke and char, along with a coconut kick to the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $25
86
Canoe Ridge 2011 The Expedition Merlot
Merlot (Horse Heaven Hills). A moderately
aromatic Merlot with notes of raspberry, ash, and herbs.
Completely coats the palate with an unusually chalky,
thick feel. —S.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
86
Passion Vineyards 2009 Mango’s Vineyard Merlot (Columbia Valley). Mango,
presumably, is the dog pictured on the label. This is a
heavily-extracted, somewhat bitter Merlot, with fruit
flavors of blackberry syrup, alcohol at 15%, and still a
fair amount of green bitterness to the tannins. Notes of
iodine and anise come into play in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $22
82
StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Merlot
(Columbia Valley). Not sure what’s going on
at StoneCap, but after a couple of outstanding Merlot
vintages, it seems to have lost its way in 2011. Spritzy,
bitter and herbal, there’s a big splash of vanilla, as if
intended to cover the vegetal flavors of unripe grapes.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
syrah
94
McCrea Cellars 2008 Cuvée Orleans Syrah (Yakima Valley). This is McCrea’s top cuvée, and the 2008 is as good as it has ever been. Cofermented with 8% Viognier, it starts out tight and compact, with crisp marionberry fruit and a generous wash
of coffee liqueur. The acids are citrusy and fresh, and
the wine has depth and an emotional range that reaches
almost symphonic power. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
93
McCrea Cellars 2008 Boushey Grande
Côte Vineyard Syrah (Yakima Valley).
The Boushey cuvée—100% varietal—really delivers
the goods. Cassis and blueberry, cherry and plum, high
acidity and nuanced notes of toasted nuts, graphite and
smoked meats are all in play. Complex and balanced, it’s
a delicious bottle right now, but could certainly age at
least another five years. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $36
92
Stevens 2010 BlackTongue Syrah (Yakima Valley). This new vintage is sourced from a
single block from the Dineen vineyard, and aged in 50%
new French oak—the most ever. Black fruits abound,
along with licorice, tar and a whiff of iodine. It’s a tightly
wound Syrah, with the stuffing and style to age for a decade or longer. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
91
Dusted Valley 2010 Rachis Syrah (Columbia Valley). Rachis refers to a particular
part of the grape stem, and indicates that roughly one
quarter of this wine is whole cluster fermented. Very
pretty cherry fruit is gently mixed with accents of Italian
herbs, and the stems tighten up the tannins and add a
light hint of bitterness. The finish has a tart, grapefruity
kick. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $53
91
McCrea Cellars 2008 Amerique Syrah
(Yakima Valley). This is an elegant Syrah,
blended with 18% Mourvèdre and topped with a splash
of Grenache. Good phenolic ripeness along with substantial sugars lead into flavors that have melded nicely. Berry, truffle, chocolate, leather, pepper and coffee
are all in the mix, and the mid-palate is delicious. Only
a fairly quick fade keeps the score from climbing even
higher. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $28
thick and heavy wines that frequently top 15% alcohol.
This sweet, syrupy Syrah is loaded with blueberries,
chocolate, licorice and espresso flavors. Nothing shy
here, but it delivers a lot of flavor for the price. —P.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
87
Bateaux Cellars 2011 Bon Vin Rouge Syrah (Yakima Valley). A tart, short, sharp entry leads into raspberry and strawberry flavors, underscored with a light earthiness. The youthful fruit and
bright acidity suggests it will show improvement with
further bottle age, as the tannins smooth out. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
87
Dusted Valley 2011 Stained Tooth Syrah
(Columbia Valley). Dusted Valley puts out a
number of Syrahs, with this being the first to be released
from each vintage. Young and grapey, it’s got good fruit
flavors, with suggestions of plum and berry. The tart acids bring a wash of citrus that lifts the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $32
85
Clearwater Canyon 2010 Verhey Vineyard Syrah (Washington). Hailing from Verhey Vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills, the Syrah from
this Idaho producer has notes of cherry cola, chocolate,
and medicine cabinet. It’s full throttle with palate coating chocolate notes and tart fruit flavors along with a
surprising amount of tannins. —S.S.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $28
85
Cottonwood Winery of Oregon 2007 Raya
Jade Syrah (Yakima Valley). Sourced from
the Crawford vineyard in Washington’s Yakima Valley,
this inexpensive Syrah seems a bit stripped. There is
some good material here, but a whiff of volatility and
a deadness in the mouth robs it of vitality. Light cherry
and plum, with a dash of coffee, is what’s left. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $15
89
Animale 2010 Syrah (Yakima Valley). This
dark and sappy Syrah is packed with black fruits,
earth and stem flavors. It’s a big, chunky style that piles
on licorice, espresso, and plenty of tannic bite. But the
fruit is outstanding, and the use of all neutral French
oak keeps it front and center. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $26
85
89
McCrea Cellars 2009 Syrah (Yakima Valley). This is the least expensive McCrea Syrah,
compiled from the same excellent sources as the higher
end wines. It’s a solid effort, with black fruits threaded
with cedar, smoke, licorice and coffee liqueur. It was
aged 32 months in 2–6 year old French oak. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
85
88
Figgins 2010 Estate Red Wine (Walla
Walla Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $85
Bunchgrass 2009 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). Though not indicated on the label, once
again the Morrison Lane vineyard—the oldest Syrah planting in Walla Walla—is the source of the fruit.
The wine is peppery and tannic, with cherry fruit and
dried herbal accents. There’s a whiff of toast in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
88
Passion Vineyards 2009 Syrah (Columbia Valley). This tiny boutique does well with
Revelry 2010 Block 19 Syrah Weinbau
Vineyard Syrah (Wahluke Slope). The oak
(40% new French) steals the show on this vineyarddesignated, single block Syrah with notes of vanilla and
toast overwhelming the vintage’s subtle fruit flavors.
—S.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
StoneCap 2011 Estate Grown Syrah (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 16.
Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
red blends
96
95
Leonetti Cellar 2010 Reserve Red Wine
(Walla Walla Valley). Leonetti’s 2010 Reserve includes 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot,
9% Cabernet Franc and 9% Malbec—a more complex blend than the 2009. It opens with a lovely floral
aroma—a bouquet of clover and white flowers—then
heads for the dark side, with black cherry and cassis.
WineMag.com | 39
buyingguide
It’s a big, tannic wine, beautifully crafted, and clearly
differentiated from the winery’s regular Cabernet bottling. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $140
93
Gorman 2010 The Evil Twin Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). Sort of
a reserve version of the Zachary’s Ladder, this is a 60/40
Syrah/Cabernet blend. Some of the Syrah has been barrel fermented, and the finished wine spent 21 months
in new French oak. Thick and tannic, it is still settling
into itself, but offers rich components—citrus, acid,
spice, stem, chocolate, earth, dust and that dense black
fruit core. The tannins are fine-grained and fulsome.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $65
92
Den Hoed 2009 Marie’s View Wallula
Vineyard (Horse Heaven Hills). A unique
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mourvedre, Petit
Verdot, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese with notes of
sassafras, cocoa, and dried herbs. It’s focused and concentrated with structured, firm tannins crafted to go the
distance. Give it some time in the cellar or a long drawn
out meal to see it at its best. —S.S.
Price: $80
abv: 14.5%
92
Stevens 2009 424 Red (Yakima Valley).
This Bordeaux-style blend is 43% Cab Franc,
30% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 5% Malbec,
with no Petit Verdot in 2009. Young and muscular, it’s
built upon a base of firm black fruits, with plenty of cassis. The wine spent 20 months in 60% new French oak,
and brings plenty of roasted coffee bean and dark cacao
goodness to the finishing tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $35
91
Vineyards (Horse Heaven Hills). The high
toned, aromatic reticence of the 2008 vintage is on full
display in this unusual blend 37% Cabernet Sauvignon,
33% Syrah, 12% Mourvedre, 6% Petit Verdot, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Sangiovese. The brooding notes
of bittersweet chocolate, medicine cabinet, and cherry
cola are concentrated however with structured, slightly
dry tannins in a wine that calls out for steak if ever there
were one. —S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
91
Dusted Valley 2010 Wallywood (Columbia Valley). Wallywood is a Rhône-style red,
with two thirds Syrah, while Grenache, Mourvèdre and
Petite Sirah fill in the rest. It surprises with its elegance,
despite hefty alcohol and tannic components. It’s a very
well-done blend, melding together flavors of plum, berry, herb, stem, earth and iron. —P.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $42
91
Kiona 2008 Cyclops (Red Mountain). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
91
Nodland Cellars 2008 Private Blend Red
(Columbia Valley). All six Bordeaux grapes
make an appearance in this well-oaked spicebox of
a red. It’s just plain delicious, from the first sniff on
through. The firm mid-palate shows pretty blue, purple
and black fruits, a touch of black olive, black tea, and
those oh-so-tasty baking spices. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
green olive and briary berry notes. It’s well-crafted and
further bottle age could boost the score. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
91
88
Geoff Tate 2010 Insania Merlot-Cabernet
Sauvignon-Petit Verdot-Malbec-Cabernet
Franc (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
90
Dusted Valley 2011 Squirrel Tooth Alice
Red Heaven Vineyard Red (Red Mountain). Mourvèdre is the dominant grape (60%) with
Grenache making up the rest. It’s a riot of flavors, Bing
cherry, green olive, some stem and herb, with the minerality of the Mourvèdre underscoring the finish. Very
well done and quite tasty. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $39
89
Vineyard (Horse Heaven Hills). A dated but not outdated blend of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvedre, Cabernet Franc, and Sangiovese that
brings notes of herbs, green beans, and floral notes. It’s
rich and sweet with plump fruit flavors and dry tannins.
—S.S.
Price: $80
abv: 14.5%
90
Helix by Reininger 2010 Stone Tree
SoRhô Red (Columbia Valley). This Southern Rhône-style blend is half Mourvèdre, 32% Grenache and 18% Cinsault. It’s a well-thought-out combination, with impressive minerality along with pretty
berry and cherry fruit. Drink now or within the next five
years. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $33
89
Gorman 2010 Zachary’s Ladder Cabernet-Syrah (Columbia Valley). Once again
Zach’s ladder is entirely sourced from Red Mountain
fruit, including Klipsun and Ciel du Cheval. It’s half
Syrah and half Cabernet Sauvignon, with a splash of Petit Verdot. Fruity and forward in this cooler vintage, it
shows lush red berry flavors with a kiss of cocoa. Tangy
and satisfying. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $30
89
Pepper Bridge 2009 Trine Red (Walla
Walla Valley). Trine, named for the three
main partners at Pepper Bridge winery, is predominantly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, with a
final 12% of the blend divvied up among the other three
Bordeaux red grapes. It shows good balance and complexity, phenolic ripeness, texture and herbal detail. But
despite so many good traits, it has less concentration
than most wines in its price category. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $60
Helix by Reininger 2009 Pomatia Red
Wine (Columbia Valley). The Pomatia blend
in 2009 is 45% Syrah, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10%
Merlot and 10% Cab Franc. The emphasis on Syrah
brings a defining sweetness along with compact berry
flavors that carry a hint of green olive. As always, this is
a palate-friendly, accessible and well-priced wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
87
Gordon Estate 2009 Decadence Red (Columbia Valley). This new cuvée is 60% Malbec, 35% Syrah and the rest Merlot. It seems to have
been given extra barrel time, and the overpowering and
heavy toast scents and flavors dominate. The raspberry
fruit flavors are somewhat buried as a result, and the
wine seems over-matched. But more bottle age may
help to open it up. —P.G.
Price: $50
abv: 13.7%
87
McCrea Cellars 2006 Sirocco Red Wine
(Washington). Bottled more than five years
ago, and released later than the 2007 Sirocco, this is still
a tough wine to dissect. The blend is Southern Rhône
all the way—36% Grenache, 41% Mourvèdre, 13% Syrah, 5% Counoise and 5% Cinsault. The fruit component
seems well on the way to maturity, with a soft, yielding,
lightly cooked character. But the overall mouthfeel remains unyielding and somehow unevolved. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $28
87
One 2009 Red Wine Destiny Ridge Vineyards Red Blend (Horse Heaven Hills).
Mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with four other Bordeaux
varieties in the mix, this wine brings an aromatic medley
of cherry cola, dark chocolate, and light medicinal notes.
The flavors don’t entirely meld with the oak showing a
bit too prominently, offset by grainy tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $40
87
Stevens 2010 YesOuiSiJa Red (Yakima
Valley). The wine is equally sharp, with a spicy
blend of Bordeaux grapes that show brambly berry
adorned with highlights of pine needle and a thread of
smoke. It would be no surprise if this aged quite well for
up to a decade, but it’s priced for near-term enjoyment.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
86
Three Rivers 2011 River’s Red Wine (Columbia Valley). For full review see page 15.
Best Buy.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $14
Bunchgrass 2009 Triolet (Walla Walla Valley). This Triolet is two thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cab Franc and 6% Petit Verdot. Despite two
years in French oak barrels, 30% new, it carries a strong
herbal note in the nose, that carries all through the palate. Stem, herb and pepper are the dominant flavors,
along with tart, compact red berries. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
88
86
89
Gordon Estate 2010 Tradition Red Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Columbia Valley). Half Cabernet Sauvignon and half Syrah, this is
still young, stiff and not quite pulled together. The cool,
attenuated vintage left the fruit on the green side, with
the Ghost in the Machine 2010 Red (Columbia Valley). Sweet scents of toasty oak introduce this Syrah-based red wine. Soft and accessible,
it has plenty of vanilla and tobacco notes, along with
easy-drinking, light plum fruit. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $13
veers into jammy flab. Just plain delicious all the way
through the long finish. —P.G.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $42
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90
the Ghost of 413 2010 Red (Columbia
Valley). In much the same mold as its companion, the ghost in the machine Red, this is almost all
Syrah, with a bit more bite and focus. Purple plum fruit
glides smoothly into a lightly toasty finish. A fine every
day red with plenty of flavor. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $13
86
Zero One Vintners 2010 Sauce Red (Columbia Valley). The 2010 Sauce is three quarters Merlot, with Syrah and Malbec filling in the rest.
It’s a simple, accessible red blend, with accents of cut
tobacco over black cherry fruit. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Kamiak 2009 Rock Lake Red (Washington). The blend is 42% Cabernet Sauvignon,
29% Merlot, 24% Syrah and 5% Sangio. It’s a sturdy,
all-purpose red, diffuse but with simple raspberry and
cherry fruit as the focus of a somewhat grapey, slightly
sweet core. —P.G.
Price: $16
abv: 13.9%
other red wines
93
Leonetti Cellar 2010 Sangiovese (Walla Walla Valley). As in the past, Leonetti’s
2010 Sangiovese was co-fermented with Syrah (11%),
and sourced from Seven Hills, Pepper Bridge and Mill
Creek Upland vineyards. It’s flat-out delicious from the
first scents of barrels and fruits, right on through a lush
palate rich in flavors of berries, rum-soaked cherries and
exotic spices. A long finish, with a smoky/earthy cast, is
supported with tart acids. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $65
92
Dusted Valley 2011 Cinsaut Stone Tree
Vineyard Cinsault (Wahluke Slope). A
rare, arresting varietal bottling of Cinsault—forget for
a moment that it’s also vineyard designated. It boasts intoxicating notes of fresh boysenberries, cherries, herbs,
and peppery spice. It’s silky and fruit filled with an incredible sense of freshness and purity that is nothing
short of dazzling. —S.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $32
90
Animale 2010 Dolcetto (Columbia Valley). There is some alchemy at work here, for
this unusual Dolcetto—all 24 cases of it—has the complexity of blended wines. Tart pomegranate fruit, streaks
of stem and cement, mint and spice, all rise briefly and
then fall away. It’s a detailed wine, in the enigmatic style
that marks this tiny winery as sui generis. Among the
lineup of reds from 2010, it’s best of show at the moment. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $25
90
Dusted Valley 2010 Petite Sirah (Columbia Valley). Strong tannins are a given with varietal Petite Sirah, and they are here in force, along with
dark, deep notes of licorice, vanilla and cassis fruit. It’s
a big wine throughout, with very ripe fruit that never
Helix by Reininger 2008 Stillwater Creek
Vineyard Sangiovese (Columbia Valley).
Well-aged and drinking at a peak, this 100% Sangiovese
is round and toasty, filled with plush cherry fruit, and
just a smidgen of green olive. The barrel aging brings
in accents of toasted walnuts through a full, inviting finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
90
McCrea Cellars 2009 Mourvèdre (Yakima
Valley). The blend includes a hefty 22% Syrah,
but the varietal stamp of the Mourvèdre shines through.
Red plum, truffle and smoke are joined by a streak of
vanilla. It’s attention-getting and distinctive, dense and
velvety. A wine to pair with wild game or smoked meats.
—P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
89
Bunnell Family Cellar 2008 Northridge
Vineyard Mourvèdre (Wahluke Slope). An
aromatic explosion with notes of white pepper, menthol,
black cherry, and vanilla. It’s medium bodied with citrusy acidity and firm tannins with oak notes fleshing out
the finish. A delightful bottle that deserves a place at the
dinner table. —S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
88
Animale 2010 Zinfandel (Washington). A
complex blend of 76% Zinfandel, 13% Petite
Sirah, 6% Mourvèdre and 5% Syrah, this opens with
hints of raisins and Ruby Port, a reflection of the near16% alcohol. But the wine is neither jammy nor hot,
and the flavors bring concentrated raspberry and cherry compote, surprising acidity, and some intense herbal
and stem highlights. All in all a big, chunky, potent wine
that captures the distinctive style of this unique minimicro winery. —P.G.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $25
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Animale 2010 Petite Sirah (Yakima Valley). Not surprisingly, this young wine has
dense, potent tannins, along with plenty of stem and
herb accents. It’s balanced texturally, and has rather
acidic, young fruit flavors of cranberry and raspberry.
At the moment it is the most chewy and tannic of all the
2010 reds from Animale. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $26
84
Clearwater Canyon 2010 Phinny Hill
Vineyard Petit Verdot (Washington). The
winery’s first varietal bottling of Petit Verdot comes
from Phinny Hill Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills.
It’s lightly aromatic with notes of peat, freshly tilled soil,
and cherry. It shows all of the variety’s brawn with dry,
grainy tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
dessert wines
94
Kiona 2010 Single Berry Select Botrytised
Chenin Blanc (Red Mountain). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 9.4%
Price: $80/375 ml
94
Stottle 2011 Lucille Late Harvest Viognier
(Yakima Valley). This tastes like a more concentrated and sweeter version of Stottle’s dry Viognier
from the same vintage and vineyard. Deeply concentrated, complex and creamy, it’s loaded with citrus and
stone fruits, honey and butterscotch, yet remains lifted
by defining acidity. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18/375 ml
chile
sauvignon blanc
90
Casas del Bosque 2012 Pequeñas Producciones Estate Bottled Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Despite hot conditions
in 2012, this manages to deliver pungent aromas of nettle, green herbs, passion fruit and pink grapefruit. It’s
clear and straightforward in the mouth, with passion
fruit, lychee, lime and tangerine flavors. A long finish
holds off on the bitterness while maintaining exuberance and pop. American Importing. —M.S.
Price: $36
abv: 14%
89
Arboleda 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Aconcagua Valley). Like any good coastal Chilean
SB, this crackles with minerality, grassy notes and tight
citrus aromas. The palate has zest and acidity, while core
flavors of arugula, jalapeño, nettle and green fruits shout
“cool climate.” Because 2012 was very hot by Chilean
standards, the finish is a bit flatter and fuller than in past
vintages. Dourthe USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
89
Casas del Bosque 2012 Gran Reserva
Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Casablanca Valley). This relatively snappy SB reflects
coastal Chile in a good, true way via minerally and citrusy aromas that include jalapeño notes. The palate is
friendly but exact, with passion fruit, grapefruit and
lime flavors. The minerally finish is sweeter and less
acidic than in years past. American Importing. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
89
San Pedro 2012 Castillo de Molina
Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Elqui Valley).
Minerally opening aromas yield to a tight collection of
green herb and citrus scents that steer clear of anything
feline or grassy. This offers shear, zesty flavors of gooseberry, lime and tarragon in front of a stony feeeling finish that’s crisp but not grating. Shaw-Ross International
Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 13%
89
Undurraga 2012 T.H. Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley). This Casablanca SB
opens with crisp, dry, capped aromas of ocean foam,
citrus and green herbs. It’s true to form in the mouth,
with nice acidity and citrusy zest. Flavors of citrus and
green herbs are focused but pithy, while the finish is
fresh, crisp and tastes of lime and thyme. Testa Wines
Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Caliterra 2012 Tributo Single Vineyard
Block #Algarrobo Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). This SB is more plump and tropical than
WineMag.com | 41
buyingguide
you might expect for Leyda, but it’s still honest, grassy
and quite good as a whole. Basic coastal aromas of grass
and citrus give way to a round palate with honeyed citrus flavors and length. A focused, comfortable finish is
perfectly good; drink right away. Durango Imports, Inc..
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
88
Estampa 2012 Del Viento Single Vineyard
Paredones Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). This inaugural wine from Estampa
hails from Paredones along the Colchagua coast. It’s
plump and dusty smelling, with lime and green-herb
aromas. A chunky, round, somewhat soft palate carries
flavors of fleshy melon, green herbs and mild citrus to a
quiet finish. American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $37
88
Leyda 2012 Classic Sauvignon Blanc
(Leyda Valley). This opens with cool, coastal
aromas of passion fruit, minerality, ocean spray and tarragon. It’s just round enough to avoid being shearing,
with cutting acidity and true varietal flavors of green
herbs, lettuce and lime. The finish maintains those flavors while cleansing the palate. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $NA
abv: NA
86
Rios de Chile 2012 Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley). With its soft
bouquet and friendly but easygoing melon and apple
flavors, this ranks as a good but chunky SB with maturity
and moderate oxidation already showing. It’s good, tasty
and easygoing, but it lacks the sizzle and snap Chilean
SB is known for. Drink immediately. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Santa Helena 2012 Selección del Directorio Gran Reserva Cool Coastal Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Colchagua Valley). For
a spring or summer sipper, this fits the bill. The nose
is neutral except for light apple, pear and lime aromas.
In the mouth, it’s zesty and linear, with acidic cut. Flavors of white pepper powder, fresh yellow pepper and
citrus lead to a crisp, clean finish. Misa Imports. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
85
O. Fournier 2010 Alfa Centauri Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). For most people
this oak-aged SB is a love-it-or-leave-it type of wine, but
in this case it falls somewhere in the middle. A largely
neutral bouquet comes with resiny aromas of melon.
This is round, smooth and soft in the mouth, with toasty,
resiny apple, melon and bitter flavors. It’s showing oxidation and age on the finish, meaning it’s got one foot in
the grave. Tempranillo, Inc.. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $34
84
Emiliana 2012 Natura Sauvignon Blanc
(Casablanca Valley). Lime and mineral
notes are about all that arise from the bouquet. On the
palate, this is a sizzler with blazing acidity and narrow
flavors of lemon and green apple. Yes, it’s very fresh and
cleansing; but this is also acidic and lean. Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
86
Undurraga 2012 Aliwen Reserva Sauvignon Blanc (Curicó and Leyda Valleys).
For a large-production wine (47,000 cases made), this
is nice and easy to drink. Tropical fruit aromas are lightly citric. In the mouth, this is fresh and easy, with nectarine and tangerine flavors. Freshness and simplicity
are this wine’s calling card. Testa Wines Of The World.
—M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 14%
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Casa Viva 2012 Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Citrus and tropical fruit aromas are basic and the slightest bit stalky
smelling. Spritzy lift gives the body some kick, while
zesty flavors of sport pepper, jalapeño and citrus culminate in a juicy finish. Indigo Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Undurraga 2012 Sibaris Reserva Especial Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). An
almost neutral nose offers mild green herb and citrus
aromas but little more. The palate is zesty, tangy and
fresh, while a narrow set of lemon-lime, grapefruit and
lime flavors ends with focused crispness. For something tight and refreshing, this is it. Testa Wines Of The
World. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $16
Block #Algarrobo Sauvignon Blanc (Leyda Valley). Cool-climate aromas of passion fruit, nettle, tarragon and minerality are present in this Chilean
SB. It is mostly fresh in the mouth, with body and standard Leyda flavors of citrus, nectarine, green herbs and
sea salt. A round, herbal finish is showing a steady pulse
that won’t last forever. Drink now. Durango Imports,
Inc.. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Peñalolen 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Limarí
Valley). The nose on this racy SB provides a
combo of stalky citrus, minerality and tangerine. The
palate feels light, zingy and fairly innocuous, while flavors of green herbs, lime, green apple and lemon finish
mild and a bit washed out. This will function best as a
well-chilled summer quaffer. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
Rios de Chile 2012 Sauvignon Blanc
(Central Valley). Salinic, minerally aromas
come with citrus and passion fruit notes. This Central
Valley SB feels round and medium in terms of intensity,
with melony, green-leaning flavors of lime. On the finish, pithy grapefruit flavors end with mild bitterness. W.
Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Château Los Boldos 2012 Cuvée Tradition Sauvignon Blanc (Rapel Valley). The
nose on this average SB is bland and neutral, but inoffensive. A fleshy, normal feeling palate leads to slightly
dilute flavors of scallion, mustard green and apple. This
finishes mellow and slightly pithy, with nothing in particular standing out. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Echeverria 2012 Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (Casablanca Valley). Passion fruit,
lime and feline aromas give the bouquet crispness and
varietal snap. The palate is tangy, lean and somewhat
dilute, with pithy grapefruit, lime and tarragon flavors.
The finish shows modest cut but regular, weakly defined
flavors. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
MontGras 2012 Reserva Sauvignon
Blanc (San Antonio). This is basic and mild
as a whole. The nose blends citrus, apple and fresh bell
pepper aromas in front of a zesty, medium-intensity
palate with standard citrus flavors including lime and
orange. For a refreshing quaff this summer, this more
than suffices. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Lapostolle 2012 Casa Grand Selection
Sauvignon Blanc (Rapel Valley). Lapostolle makes many excellent wines and quite a few
good values; this Sauvignon Blanc from the warm Rapel Valley is not one of them. Like in prior years, this is
bland and fleshy, with soft, wide, dull flavors of melon
and sweet apple. And it’s weak on acidity. 60,000 cases
made. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 13%
Maniña 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Valley). Somewhere between neutral and
bland is where this wine’s bouquet resides. The palate
is plump feeling but stagnant, with chunky apple and
pithy citrus flavors. Bitterness comes up on the finish,
which is pithy as a whole. Winery Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
Soleca 2012 3 Generaciones Sauvignon
Blanc (Central Valley). This amounts to a
flabby, basic SB from a hot vintage. The nose is dull and
lacks spunk. The palate is soft and fleshy, with bitterleaning, bland flavors of melon, mild citrus and white
pepper. Dangerous Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Gewürztraminer
87
Matetic 2012 Corralillo Gewürztraminer
(San Antonio). Matetic makes a clean, tropical, racy style of Gewürz that’s a lot like Torrontés from
Argentina. The palate is fresh with kick, while flavors
of lemon-lime, lychee and passion fruit are true to the
grape and set up a medium-length finish with exotic
spice notes. This is perfect for Asian foods. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
85
Viña Bisquertt 2012 La Joya Gran Reserva Gewürztraminer (Colchagua Valley).
Soft citrus with exotic spice notes make for a good but
flabby bouquet. Things follow suit in the mouth, which
is chunky and heavy. Flavors of mild citrus and lychee
are oily and lightly spiced, while the finish flattens up
and turns bitter. Drink now. Prestige Wine Group.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Carmen 2011 Gran Reserva El Refugio
Vineyard Chardonnay (Casablanca &
Leyda Valleys). Early on this smells strained, like a
haystack with brine. Give it time and it comes around,
although it remains chunky in feel, with citrus and nectarine flavors. On the finish it’s thick and heavy (14.4%
ABV means weight and viscosity). Trinchero Family Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $15
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syrah/shiraz
88
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Aresti 2012 Estate Selection Gewürztraminer (Central Valley). Match stick and oily
white-fruit aromas come in front of a round, somewhat
fat palate with warm, oily flavors of lychee, banana and
spice. This falls off toward ripe banana and blandness
on the finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
chardonnay
Errazuriz 2011 Max Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Mellow aromas of
baked apple, mild oak and toast are balanced and harmonious. This feels round and a little creamy but not
thick or gooey. Soft flavors of honeyed peach, pineapple
and banana are tropical as a whole, while the finish is
solid, ripe and tropical tasting. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Matetic 2011 EQ Chardonnay (San Antonio). The nose sends up signals of a balanced,
easygoing wine with oak blended nicely into pear and
apple fruit. The palate is lively and mildly oaky, with
baked apple, orange and woodspice flavors. A snappy,
oaky finish with intense acidity closes the show. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
87
Block #Maitenal Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Toasty oak aromas are mild and fold
in some baked apple notes. The palate feels layered and
rich, while toasty flavors of peach, nectarine and melon
end in a medium-length finish that’s well controlled and
juicy. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
87
Casas del Bosque 2011 Gran Reserva
Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Casablanca
Valley). This Chardonnay is fairly oaky, as evidenced
by savory BBQ and resiny aromas that run heavily over
the top of apple and citrus scents. This is plump, resiny
feeling and woody on the palate, with a mix of banana,
tropical fruit and citrus flavors. The finish is oaky and
tastes sweet. American Importing. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
87
Casas del Bosque 2011 Reserva Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). While this
Chardonnay is tropical and sweet as a whole, it’s also an
honest reflection of Casablanca. Aromas of honeyed apple, toast and peach are friendly, while the palate feels
round and resiny, with solid core acidity. Apple, sweet
melon, honey and toast flavors precede a finish where
oak rises up and vies with residual tropical notes. American Importing. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
87
Montes 2011 Alpha Chardonnay (Casablanca Valley). Baked apple, pulpy citrus and
oak aromas create a soft nose. In the mouth, this feels
wide and resiny, and the flavors match that lead: oak,
resin, vanilla, tropical fruit and citrus are all registering.
On the finish, this is oaky and resiny. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
Viña Requingua 2011 Toro de Piedra
Grand Reserve Chardonnay (Maule Valley). This is one of the more resiny wines you’re likely
to come upon. And while it maintains spunk and a fresh
feel, the palate is resiny and woody, and overall things
taste like wood-infused banana, sawdust and spice. This
is a barrel bomb, no two ways about it. Puerto Viejo
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Viña Tabalí 2010 Talinay Coastal Limestone Vineyard Chardonnay (Limarí Valley). While this smells plump, mealy and soft, it’s decidedly acidic and citrusy in the mouth. In terms of feel,
it’s limited and monotone, while the flavors run toward
vanilla, orange and oak. The finish is fleeting finish and
light on flavor. Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
other white wines
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Concha y Toro 2011 Terrunyo Costa Los
Boldos Vineyard Block 6 Riesling (Casablanca Valley). This first-time Riesling from CyT delivers petrol/diesel aromas along with mild apple and
peach scents on what amounts to a true, varietal nose.
The palate has a punch-like, juicy feel that’s fresh but
light, while tropical flavors of lychee and mango end
juicy but with weight. Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
86
Matetic 2012 Corralillo Riesling (Casablanca Valley). Wayward aromas of tropical
fruits and diesel fumes are warm and mild. The palate is
plump and slightly citrusy, while flavors of white grapefruit, orange and pineapple end with pithy bitterness.
On the finish, this is citrusy in flavor and pulpy in texture. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
85
Viña Bisquertt 2012 La Joya Gran Reserva Viognier (Colchagua Valley). The nose
on this racy Viognier is mostly tropical. In the mouth,
this is lifted, tangy and acidic, with citrusy flavors of
lime, lemon and green appple. A tangy, fresh, zesty finish with a lemon-based flavor is refreshing but angular.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Errazuriz 2011 The Blend Collection
(Aconcagua Valley). There’s no denying this
wine’s stalky, oily aromas. In the mouth, this blend of
Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier is chunky, with flavors that follow suit: the palate is bitter, slightly oxidized
and melony. For $40, not much is clicking here. Vintus
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Maucho
Reserva Viognier (Maule Valley). This
creamy, candied Viognier comes across hot and high
in alcohol, with banana and vanilla aromas that are not
very encouraging. Flavors of Animal Cracker cookies,
vanilla and canned fruits end in a sweet, soft, cloying
finish. Vinecrest Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
92
Lagar de Bezana 2010 Edicion Limitada
Single Vineyard Syrah (Cachapoal Valley). With complex aromas of cedar, tobacco, tree bark,
herbs and blackberry, this lush, tightly packed Syrah
gets off to a fine start. A mouthfilling palate with baked
but controlled flavors of boysenberry, leather and chocolate finishes long, minty and with classy herb flavors.
For a modern, oaky Syrah, this is excellent. Drink now
through 2017. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
92
Ventisquero 2008 Pangea Apalta Vineyard Syrah (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
91
Errazuriz 2010 La Cumbre Syrah (Aconcagua Valley). This is a rich, ripe Syrah with
chunky aromas of baked black fruits, forest floor, chocolate and berry syrup. It’s soft, lush and syrupy feeling,
with jammy, ultraripe flavors of baked blackberry, tobacco, coffee and herbs. This finishes chewy, dense and
without much spine or kick. Drink now through 2015.
Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
90
Concha y Toro 2010 Marques de Casa
Concha Syrah (Buin). Pure, alluring aromas of minerally black fruits, lavender, cola, fir tree and
pepper combine to form a highly inviting bouquet. This
doesn’t fall off in the mouth, where it’s more fresh and
bouncy than heavy. Flavors of dark berry fruits, herbs
and chocolate end in a rich, grabby, textured finish.
Drink this lusty but elegant Syrah now through 2016.
Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
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Rios de Chile 2010 Gran Reserva Syrah
(Cachapoal Valley). A jammy, grapey bouquet offers blueberry and spice aromas but not much
complexity or nuance. The palate is lively, with acidic
cut and leathery, herbal flavors of raspberry, plum and
pepper. This is bouncy feeling and tastes earthy and
chocolaty on the finish. Drink now through 2015. W.
Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
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Viña Bisquertt 2011 La Joya Gran Reserva Syrah (Colchagua Valley). This deep,
dense Syrah offers layers of dark berry aromas mixed
with spice and herbal notes. The palate feels stylish and
smooth, while driving flavors of blackberry and chocolate finish with smooth tannins. This is clean and New
World in character. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
WineMag.com | 43
buyingguide
88
Koyle 2011 Reserva Syrah (Colchagua
Valley). This concentrated, ripe, dark wine carries aromas of lead pencil, shoe polish, creamy oak, coconut and blackberry. It’s loud and oaky on the palate,
with modern flavors of black fruits, chocolate and coconut. This finishes mildly bitter, toasty and almost fat,
but with healthy acidity. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Emiliana 2011 Natura Syrah (Rapel Valley). With a ruby color and loud aromas of berry fruits, vanilla and graphite, this value Syrah pumps up
the volume with plenty of berry fruit, mild buttery oak,
herbal hints and wiry acidity. This is more generic than
“varietal,” and it’s juicy, bright and clean. Banfi Vintners.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Viña Requingua 2011 Puerto Viejo Reserve Syrah (Curicó Valley). This valuepriced Syrah is meaty, leathery and spicy smelling,
which can be typical for the variety. The palate is a bit
shrill and acidic, while narrow flavors of red berries,
herbs and minty green settle on a lightly herbal finish.
Puerto Viejo Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 14%
84
Loma Larga 2008 Syrah (Casablanca Valley). Hailing from chilly Casablanca, this Syrah
shows a soupy, vegetal smelling nose that’s mildly green
and earthy. The palate feels pretty good and chunky, but
the flavor profile runs green, with an herbal finish. Winery Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
83
Santa Alicia 2011 Reserva Shiraz (Maipo
Valley). There’s no shortage of funky wildness
to the nose: leather, juniper and rubbery berry scents
are all accounted for. The palate carries minimal tannic
grip, while flavors of herbal berry fruits rekindle the juniper from the nose, leaving an herbal aftertaste. Halby
Marketing. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
pinot noir
87
Undurraga 2011 Reserva Especial Sibaris Pinot Noir (Maipo Valley). Pushy,
forceful aromas of vanilla and oak blend with berry and
spice notes. The palate is quietly full bodied, with plum
and spice flavors in front of a toasty, dry, nicely oaked
finish. For a lively, nervy wine, this is honest and good.
Testa Wines Of The World. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
85
William Cole 2011 Columbine Special
Reserve Pinot Noir (Casablanca Valley).
After an herbal, lightly leafy aromatic opening, this rings
around in the mouth before settling on racy red plum,
raspberry and controlled herbal flavors. It’s solid and
varietally correct, but it finishes short and a bit acidic.
Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
84
Aresti 2011 Estate Selection Pinot Noir
(Central Valley). This basic Pinot offers up tea
and oaky clove and cinnamon aromas. It’s fairly fresh
and juicy in the mouth despite a mild resiny oak feel,
and flavors of meaty berry fruits are fully spiced like a
licorice gum drop. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
tannins says drink this Carmenère now through 2015.
Santa Carolina. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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Alto Roble 2011 Beach Kite Pinot Noir
(Curicó Valley). For a big, simple style of Pinot Noir, this gets the job done. It’s dark and mulled on
the nose, with boistrous plum and cherry flavors that
darken up and turn peppery on the finish. This emphasizes freshness and size more than finesse. Puerto Viejo
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
William Cole 2011 Albamar Pinot Noir
(Casablanca Valley). This is edgy and lean,
with mulch and latex on a stripped back nose. In the
mouth, it clangs around due to racy acidity. Flavors of
leafy red fruits and citrus are not fully convincing. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
carmenère
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François Lurton 2010 Hacienda Araucano Alka Estate Bottled Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Deep, lush aromas of cassis, blackberry and baked plum come with herbal hints and balsamic notes. This feels full, slightly rich, creamy and focused, with toasty flavors of dark fruits, chocolate and
herbs. It’s a delicious wine with clarity and a satisfying
finish. Drink now through 2015. Winesellers Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
93
Santa Carolina 2008 Herencia Carmenère (Peumo). As Chilean Carmenère goes,
this is one of the best and most true to the grape. Dusty,
dry, earthy aromas of spiced berry, herbs and cocoa lead
to a lofty palate with both creamy oak and driving acids.
Oak-related flavors of vanilla and coconut sit on top of
spicy, baked berry flavors, while the finish is full, woody,
creamy and dense. Drink this excellent Carmenère now
through 2017. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $90
Errazuriz 2010 Kai Carmenère (Aconcagua Valley). This absurdly priced Carmenère is always one of Chile’s best, and this vintage is just
fine, with cherry, cassis, graphite, herb and eucalyptuslike green aromas. The palate is chunky and round in
feel, with solid acidity and plump, herbal flavors of berry
fruits, olive and spice. But what justifies a $235 price
tag? You can be the judge. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $235
Vineyard El Rulo Estate Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Anakena 2010 Alwa Limited Edition Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). Wiry cherry
and herbal aromas create a raw bouquet with controlled
ruggedness. Things follow that track in the mouth,
which feels snappy and acidic on the midpalate, while
flavors of herbal plum and spicy currant take over. A
solid finish with a good feel and fresh, herbal berry fruit
flavors is good. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
Price: $35
abv: 14%
89
Errazuriz 2010 Max Reserva Carmenère
(Aconcagua Valley). Stewed red berries and
an herbal streak define the nose, which also offers carob
and spice notes. The palate feels mostly deep and padded, with layering and flavors of herbs, pepper, spice
and plum. A meaty, herbal finish with a tomato paste
quality is the final act. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Koyle 2010 Royale Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). This is a broad, full-bodied Carmenère with leathery, foresty aromas as well as berry
and cassis. The palate feels wide, grabby and hefty,
while the flavors run toward meaty and toasty, with
dark berry, herb and mildly bitter notes. On the finish,
it overflows with heat, chocolate and peppery flavors.
Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
91
Concha y Toro 2008 Carmín de Peumo
Carmenère (Peumo). Price aside, this is a
fine, ready to drink, full-bodied Carmenère with earth,
cola, tree bark, cherry and cassis aromas. It’s full and
a touch soft in the mouth, with easy tannins and bold
flavors of blackberry, herbs, bitter chocolate and leather. On the finish, it’s peppery tasting and mildly herbal.
Drink now through 2016. Eccelsior Wines & Spirits.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $200
88
91
merlot
Santa Carolina 2010 Reserva de Familia
Carmenère (Rapel Valley). This is dark and
pointed on the nose, with graphite, mint, peppercorn
and creamy oak aromas supporting herbal berry fruit
scents. The palate feels lush and almost airy, with soft
tannins and baked black-fruit flavors accented by chocolate and coffee. An earthy finish with licorice and mild
Concha y Toro 2010 Gran Reserva Serie Riberas Ribera del Cachapoal Carmenère (Peumo). This bold wine opens with a blast
of black fruit and cassis, and then dry spice and herbal aromas settle in. This is racy in the mouth, with a
good body and flavors of red plum, raspberry, spice and
herbs. It’s acid-driven and fairly elegant on the way out.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
87
Lapostolle 2011 Casa Grand Selection
Merlot (Rapel Valley). With dark-berry aromas and pointed toughness, this is a solid wine with
creamy oak, some stickiness and a lactic element. Flavors of herbal dark fruits and minty oak lead to a dry,
minty, hot and spicy finish with more than enough resid-
ual oak flavor. Terlato Wines International. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $12
raspberry, cherry and a touch of vanilla. A quick finish
that’s tangy is the final act. Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
A spicy, dry, harmonious finish closes the show. Drink
now through 2015. Vici Wine and Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
86
cabernets & blends
91
Vistamar 2011 Sepia Reserva Merlot
(Central Valley). This is concentrated and
dark in color, with chocolaty berry and plum aromas. A
full-bodied, plump and oaky palate houses milk chocolate and herbal blackberry flavors, while a healthy, driving finish with residual oak winds things down. Deutsch
Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
San Nicolas 2011 Merlot (Curicó Valley).
Scratchy rhubarb aromas run tart and weedy.
The palate on this basic Merlot is high in acid and thus
shrill, with sharp raspberry and cherry flavors. A short,
choppy finish with sour plum flavors closes out this marginal, crisp wine. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
malbec
88
Montes 2010 Alpha Malbec (Colchagua
Valley). Montes’ first Alpha Malbec is serious
and healthy, with rubbery, leathery berry aromas and
crusty, dark oak scents. This is full and fairly oaky on the
tongue, with herbal black-fruit flavors, raw wood notes,
espresso-like bitterness and heat on the finish. T.G.I.C.
Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
88
Viña Pérez Cruz 2010 Cot Limited Edition
Malbec (Maipo Valley). This Maipo Malbec
is a bit pinched and gritty up front, with leather, rubber
and raspberry aromas in the backdrop. A full, chunky
palate offers mildly herbal, baked berry flavors in front
of a spicy, minty, mildly hot finish. This is nice for Chilean Malbec but a little aggressive. South American
Wine Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
87
Concha y Toro 2010 Serie Riberas
Gran Reserva Ribera del Tinguiririca
Marchigue Malbec (Chile). Herb and olive aromas
give this Malbec a slightly green nose. There’s a lot of
body and acid once it hits the palate along with flavors
of herbal berry, mint and pepper. This is sturdy, fully
oaked and minty on the finish. Banfi Vintners. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
87
Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Maucho
Reserva Malbec (Maule Valley). Initial medicinal, plastic aromas give way to rubber, carob and
herbal berry scents. The palate is round and easygoing,
with blueberry, blackberry and herbal flavors. An oakbased finish with chocolate, normal acidity and good but
modest dark-fruit flavors closes this out. Vinecrest Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
86
Botalcura 2010 La Porfia Gran Reserve
Malbec (Maule Valley). This Maule Malbec
opens with pinched, herbal aromas of cherry and berry
mixed with leather. The palate is fresh and zesty, almost
to the point of being lean and scouring, with red plum,
93
Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite)
2010 Le Dix de Los Vascos (Colchagua
Valley). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
92
Caliterra 2009 Cenit (Colchagua Valley).
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
92
Errazuriz 2010 Viñedo Chadwick (Maipo
Valley). The price on this wine is laughable, but
the quality is excellent. Earthy aromas of lead pencil,
baked plum, cassis and black cherry include chocolate
and minerality. The palate is rich, jammy and a touch
stewy, with herbal blackberry, cassis, chocoalte and coffee flavors. Even more chocolate and licorice rise up
on the long finish. Put this away until 2015, then drink
through 2024. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $400
92
La Playa 2009 Axel Primero (Colchagua
Valley). This starts out appealing. Licorice,
spice, coconut and vanilla aromas are entirely inviting.
On the palate it delivers a tight deck of lemony oak,
raspberry fruit, spice and vanilla. This finishes fiery and
with a sinewy structure. Drink this Cabernet-led, fivegrape blend through 2019; 500 cases made. Cabernet
Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
91
Errazuriz 2010 Don Maximiano Founder’s Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Aconcagua Valley). Floral aromas of cassis and plum are
open, spicy and complex, with a balsamic accent. This
feels solid as a rock, with firm tannins and a lively flavor
profile that includes blackberry, baked notes, spice and
cocoa powder. On the finish, oak is reflected through
flavors of vanilla and mocha. Drink from 2014–2022.
Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
91
Miguel Torres 2009 Manso de Velasco Viñas Viejas Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó
Valley). Given that 2009 was a hot vintage in Chile,
it’s not shocking that this old vine Cabernet is rich, ripe
and syrupy. The nose is attractive and offers aromas of
blackberry, tree bark, herbs and minerality. The palate
deals gritty tannins and rich, raisiny flavors of cassis,
blackberry, coffee and toast. This finishes a touch choppy and rough, with weight and power. Drink through
2016. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
91
Oveja Negra 2009 The Lost Barrel (Maule
Valley). This weighty, structured, dark-colored
blend of Syrah, Carignan, Carmenère and Petit Verdot
pours on the berry, vanilla and baking spice aromas. The
mouthfeel is full, with a lot to savor, especially toasty,
typically Chilean flavors of olive, herbs and berry fruits.
Ventisquero 2008 Vertice Apalta Vineyard
(Colchagua Valley). For full review see page
9.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $37
90
Altaïr 2009 Sideral (Rapel Valley). For full
review see page 9.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
90
Carmen 2009 Gold Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This big, muscular wine opens with a tidal wave of oaky coconut and vanilla aromas matched against tar, eucalyptus and brushy
blackberry. The palate smacks down with tannic bite,
while the midlevel is a bit amorphous. Plum, berry, carob and leafy flavors set up an oaky, herbal, saucy tasting finish. Drink now through 2018. Trinchero Family
Estates. —M.S.
Price: $50
abv: 14.3%
90
Domus Aurea 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Even if this Cab shows eucalyptus on the nose along with asphalt and olive aromas,
the bouquet is complex and true as far as high-end Chilean Cabs go. A saturated, syrupy body reflects a hot vintage, while baked flavors of earthy fruits, beef soup and
chocolate qualify as stewy but tasty. A warm, flat finish
says drink this Cabernet sooner rather than later. Global
Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
90
Echeverria 2009 Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley). This is classic Chilean Cabernet. It’s intense in color, with herb,
graphite, licorice and blackberry aromas. The palate is
solid, maybe a touch tannic, with oaky, beefy flavors of
black fruits, anise and herbs. A solid-feeling, wholesome
finish with modest complexity is the final act. Drink now
through 2020. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Emiliana 2010 Coyam (Colchagua Valley). After a foxy, jumpy smelling bouquet with
animal fur aromas and minerality, this six-grape blend
settles and shows its better colors, namely ripe bakedfruit flavors, a whack of oaky vanilla and lastly a modest,
smooth finish with just enough acidity to provide kick
and pizzazz. Give this blocky, full-bodied blend time in
the glass and it will reward you. Drink through 2018.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
90
La Playa 2009 Axel Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This is a rugged,
full-bodied and flavorful Cabernet. Aromas of gritty
black cherry and cassis come with herbal undercurrents. The palate is tight, with firm tannins and foresty,
lightly herbal flavors of cassis, wild berry, juniper and
chocolate. Drink through 2017. Cabernet Corporation.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
WineMag.com | 45
buyingguide
90
Ninquén 2009 Ninquén Mountain Vineyard (Colchagua Valley). For full review see
page 11.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
89
Estampa 2009 Gold Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot-Malbec (Colchagua Valley). The nose on this blend of Syrah, Cabernet, Merlot
and Malbec is concentrated, with herbal hints of juniper
along with brandied berry and cherry. This is firm and
tannic, with deep, earthy flavors of licorice, mint and
spiced black fruits. It’s grabby and big throughout, with
all the nutmeg, anise and wood spice the wine can take.
American Estates Wines, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
89
Ninquén 2011 Antu Mountain Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). This is a dark, concentrated blend with
minty oak, lactic aromas, boysenberry and blackberry
on the bouquet. The palate is muscular and clampy,
with resiny, oak-based grab to go with full tannins. Flavors of boyseberry, chocolate, toast and oak end in a
warm, oaky finish. Drink now through 2016. Palm Bay
International. —M.S.
Price: $19
abv: 14.5%
89
Santa Alicia 2009 Millantu (Maipo Valley).
Herbal red-fruit aromas come across scratchy
and suggestive of fresh field greens. The palate is tight
and angular, with not much cushion and herbal-leaning
flavors of currant and baked raspberry. This finishes
herbal and warm tasting, a natural reflection of a hot
year. Drink this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc and Carmenère now. Halby Marketing. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
89
Vineyard El Chequén Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). For full review see
page 13.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Viña Santacruz 2011 Chamán Reserva
Carménère-Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). With floral aromas mixed with darker
notes of asphalt, mineral, leather and berry fruit, this
opens well. The palate is rubbery in feel but structured.
Flavors of bold berry fruits, chocolate and herbs end
chewy, warm and chocolaty. For a basic CarmenèreCabernet blend, this is on the money. Wines to the
World. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 14.5%
88
Anakena 2010 Alwa Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley).
Blueberry and boysenberry aromas blend with graham
cracker and cardamon scents to give off an exotic nose.
In the mouth, this is hard, narrow and tannic, with a
grating overall feel and earthy, baked, limited flavors of
blackberry and toast. A long, tannic finish is choppy in
feel and monotone in flavor. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
88
Carmen 2010 Gran Reserva Los Quillayes Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). A dry, earthy bouquet with leather,
spice and typical Chilean herbal-berry aromas leads to a
concentrated palate with creamy oak and earthy weight
counteracted by firm tannins. Flavors of baked blackberry, cassis, nutmeg and herbs finish with cinnamon,
licorice and raw oak notes. Trinchero Family Estates.
—M.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $15
88
Errazuriz 2010 Max Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Aconcagua Valley). Crusty
berry aromas mesh with olive, mineral notes and leather to form a textbook Chilean Cab bouquet. The palate
feels fresh and offers kick via tomatoey acids. Flavors
of dried cherry, herbs, fresh tomato and mint end in a
good feeling finish with mild herbal leftovers. Vintus
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
88
O. Fournier 2009 Red (Maule Valley). With
aromas of wet clay, cinnamon, dry spice, vanilla
and earthy berry, this Cab Franc-led blend delivers a
chewy, oaked-up palate with powerful flavors of mint,
chocolate, baking spices and berry fruits. It’s a bit hard
and tannic, but it’s a generous wine with tons of flavor.
Tempranillo, Inc.. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 15%
88
Peñalolen 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maipo Valley). Opening aromas of cured
meats and rubber blend with berry scents and plenty of
herbal essence. This is medium in body, with scratchy
tannins and roasted, hickory influenced flavors of blackberry and cassis. A fairly oaky but moderate finish is
mild and tasty. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
88
Valle Secreto 2010 Private Edition
(Cachapoal Valley). The nose on this blend
of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère is herbal
and a touch mulchy, with berry, coffee and olive aromas. The palate feels thick and on the cusp of syrupy,
with baked, creamy black-fruit flavors that bring carob,
chocolate and herbs accents to a modest finish. This is
ripe in feel but still smells and tastes a bit herbal. Premium Wine House. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
88
Viña Casas Patronales 2010 Reserva
Privada Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Despite showing an herbal nose that includes tomato leaf, carob and creamy oak, this solid, chunky Cab
comes around on the palate, where black fruit, pepper
and mild herbal flavors set up a warm, toasty, satisfying
finish. This comes across as Chilean Cabernet in every
way. Vinecrest Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
87
Altaïr 2008 Red (Cachapoal Valley). With
distinct aromas of field herbs, asphalt, gritty
mineral, herbal berry and burnt toast, this is a challenging blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Carmenère and Petit Verdot. The palate hits hard with aggressive tannins and abrasive acidity, while flavors of baked
black fruits and coconut announce loud oak. This finishes hard and gritty, with a mule’s kick. T. Edward Wines
Ltd. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $80
87
La Playa 2010 Block Selection Reserve
Block N. 6 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). Although the bouquet is a touch herbal
and raspy, this Cab offers good balance and body in the
mouth along with plum, cherry, cassis and spice in moderate measures. A bright, fresh-feeling finish ensures a
positive lasting impression. Cabernet Corporation. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
Santa Alicia 2010 Gran Reserva de Los
Andes Cabernet Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This is dark in color and compact on the nose, with
can’t-miss aromas of herbal berry, mint, rootiness and
chocolate. The palate feels good and fresh, with oakbased flavors of berry fruits that smack down with firm
tannins in front of an oaky, medium-long finish. Halby
Marketing. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
87
Santa Helena 2011 Selección del Directorio Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon
(Colchagua Valley). Welcoming but basic cassis and
berry aromas carrry a leathery accent and a hint of rubber. The palate is mildly creamy and comfortable, with
cassis, cherry and plum flavors but little beyond that. A
clean finish cements this well-made wine’s value position. Misa Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 14%
87
Undurraga 2011 Aliwen Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Rapel Valley). This opens hard and crusty, but with airing it
softens as chocolate, plastic, creamy oak and spice aromas emerge. The palate is compact and fairly full bodied, with herbal, roasted, leathery tasting berry flavors
that end with savory, oaky notes. Overall, this is a good
blend of Cabernet and Carmenère. Testa Wines Of The
World. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
86
San Nicolas 2010 Sophia Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Curicó Valley).
Crusty cherry and cassis aromas come with mineral
notes and scents of wet clay, hard spice and animal hide.
The palate is medium in power and not that structured,
with chunky black-fruit flavors offset by spice notes. A
baked, dry feeling finish falls off toward herbal. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
86
Santa Alicia 2009 Anke Blend 1 Cabernet
Franc-Petit Verdot (Maipo Valley). This is
a throwback Chilean blend with aromas of tomato leaf,
oregano, leather and tobacco along with dried raspberry and cherry. The palate has good flow but is light in
weight. Flavors of olive, spice and herbs dominate the
wine’s light fruit content, while oak and spice flavors
control the finish. This is a mix of Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot. Halby Marketing. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
86
Viña Pérez Cruz 2010 Reserva Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). This is a good
but generic Chilean Cabernet, meaning it’s a bit herbal
and fiery, with eucalyptus on the nose. In the mouth,
this is medium in intensity and modest in character.
Flavors of herbal red berry, carob and dried leaves end
with a touch of heat. South American Wine Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
86
Yali 2011 Wetland Winemaker’s Selection
Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). After a gritty, fruity smelling opening,
this Cabernet-led blend offers fresh, easy flavors of
raspberry and plum that conclude simply, light and mellow. This is a fresh, fruity style of red wine with little oak
that’s more than appealing for the price. San Francisco
Wine Exchange. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
85
Cornellana 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet
Sauvignon (Cachapoal Valley). With rubbery, slightly herbal aromas of generic red berry, this
comes across standard on the nose. In the mouth, it’s
fresh but smacks hard with acidity, while simple raspberry and plum flavors end herbal and lightly baked
tasting. Viña La Rosa USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
85
Sundance 2010 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Maule Valley). Herbal plum and berry
aromas turn a bit green and herbaceous with airing. In
the mouth, this is modest and regular feeling, with leafy
flavors of wintergreen running alongside peppery cherry and berry. A short, herbal finish is the close. IBESC
Wine Distributor. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
84
Tres Palacios 2011 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maipo Valley). Herbal aromas
teeter on herbaceous, with bell pepper, rosemary and
thyme scents running on top of raspberry and rhubarb.
This is full bodied and a bit oaky tasting, with campfire,
herbal berry and roasted flavors. A hot finish with bacon, mint and toast is the close. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
83
Botalcura 2009 Gran Reserva La Porfia
Cabernet Franc (Curicó Valley). The nose
is appealing; there’s a mix of wet clay, spice, red currant
and herbs. In the mouth, however, this is tangy to the
max, with tart red plum, pie cherry and vanilla flavors.
By the time it finishes, acidity has assumed the throne.
This is extremely lean and zesty for Cab Franc. Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
83
San Nicolas 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Curicó Valley). Gritty, herbal aromas of generic berry don’t exactly draw you in. The palate on
this rudimentary Cab is rather weak in structure, with
herbal, slightly salty flavors of dry, generic berry fruits.
Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
82
Aguirre 2011 Reina Ana Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Central Valley). Scratchy,
earthy aromas of red plum and cherry lead to a bland
palate with modest raspberry and red plum flavors.
This closes with dried-out red-fruit notes and little else.
Global Alliance TR Corp. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
ture that gives a mineral tang. Keep this wine for a year.
Screwcap. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
82
88
81
87
Sundance 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Maule Valley). This weakly constituted Cabernet opens with raisiny aromas. Those are backed by a
chunky, low-acid palate with raisin and baked plum flavors. The finish tastes baked and feels rubbery. IBESC
Wine Distributor. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
Cornellana 2011 Cabernet SauvignonMerlot (Cachapoal Valley). Rubbery,
mulchy aromas never clean up and rank as rough.
Roughness describes the palate, too, while flavors of
herbal fruit, bitterness, hard spices and buttery oak fail
to come around. Viña La Rosa USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
austria
Grüner Veltliner
93
Winzer Krems 2012 Wein Manufaktur Krems Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A ripe and full-bodied wine. It offers rich
creamed apple and peach flavors as well as a contrasting citrus element. Minerality adds texture to this still
young wine that needs some bottle aging. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Hirsch 2010 Veltliner No 1 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Deliciously refreshing, peach and apricot flavored wine. It is soft while also
crisp, bright and fruity. There’s a refreshing lemon zest
tang to finish. Screwcap. Michael Skurnik Wines. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
87
Höpler 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). Tangy orange zest and lime are the dominant flavors of this bright, refreshing wine. There’s almost a spritz here, very fruity, crisp, finishing with spice
and pepper. Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Loibenberg
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau).
There is deliciously pure fruit here, rich certainly but
with a straight line to pear, sweet orange and peach flavors. Behind the fruity exterior is a more structured
core, showing spice as well as density and final acidity.
Age for three years and more. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $56
Winzer Krems 2012 Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Creamy textured wine, soft
and ripe. It has attractive pure acidity that lies lightly on
the palate, blended well with riper red apple, pear and
just crisp acidity. Ready to drink in six months. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
92
85
Emmerich Knoll 2011 Loibner Grüner
Veltliner
Smaragd
Vinothekfüllung
(Wachau). Big, rich wine, packed with spice, ripe
peach and mango flavors. Designated a Library Wine
by Knoll, it is complex, ageworthy, with a weight of both
fruit and pepper to it. Keep this powerful wine for at
least another 2–3 years. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $79
92
Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Schütt Grüner
Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). Give Grüner
the chance to become really ripe and you end up with
luscious, rich wines like this. It may be dry, but its texture is so unctuous and soft. Its peach, lychee and kiwi
fruit acidity offer the chance for drinking soon, but also
promise good aging over the next 2–3 years. Circo Vino.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $56
88
Winzer Krems 2012 Kellermeister Privat
Kremser Goldberg Grüner Veltliner
(Kremstal). The wine served at Vienna’s famed Opera
Ball, this is crisp, herbaceous with apple and citrus fruits
already showing a totally refreshing character. It would
benefit from a few months in bottle. Screwcap. Total
Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
88
Winzer Krems 2012 Kremser Sandgrube Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich).
The Sandgrube vineyard is one of the larger vineyards
in the Krems area, well exposed to the Danube river.
This Grüner is soft, finely formed, with a youthful tex-
86
Lustig 2011 Grüner Veltliner (Weinland
Österreich). A fresh, fruity wine, full of crisp
apples with a touch of pear. It’s in the bright, light style
of the one liter bottles from Austria, a great party wine.
Monika Caha Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA/1 L
85
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 MoVelt Grüner Veltliner (Burgenland). A rich
style of Grüner, showing pear and peach fruits and a
warm texture. There is citrus acidity present, supporting the richness. It’s a ready-to-drink simple wine, finishing full and fruity. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
84
Winzer Krems 2012 Sandgrube 13
Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). A
wine that is soft, fragrant and very fruity. There’s a touch
of spice, pepper as well as tangy lemon zest. Sandgrube
13 is the address of the Krems cooperative. Screwcap.
Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
sauvignon blanc
92
Neumeister 2011 Klausen Sauvignon
Blanc (Südoststeiermark). A rounded style
of Sauvignon Blanc that has a full feeling to it. Yes, there
is plenty of herbaceous and citrus character but this is
just a part of a rich medley of riper fruits all in a steely
WineMag.com | 47
buyingguide
texture. Worth aging for 2–3 years. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
92
Sattlerhof 2011 Sernauberg Erste Lage
Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). Ripe
mango, peach and pineapple all come together in this
rich, opulent wine. Round yet there’s a strong ginger
and spice component. This is a complex wine, textured,
rich and worth aging for at least another two years.
Glass stopper. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
91
Sattlerhof 2010 Kranachberg Sauvignon
Blanc (Südsteiermark). The village of Gamlitz is dominated by the Kranachberg vineyard. The example from Sattlerhof shows the natural tropical richness from the warm soils. There is a herbal character to
go with the more spicy, fruity. A mineral texture at the
end gives bite. Glass stopper. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $52
89
Neumeister 2011 Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc (Steiermark). Bright, fruity
Sauvignon Blanc that has a touch of tropical fruits as
well as more citrus and grassy characters. Klassik is the
most open, attractive, ready-to-drink style from Styria.
Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
89
Sattlerhof 2011 Steirische Klassik Sauvignon Blanc (Südsteiermark). With tropical fruit richness, this is a full and rounded Sauvignon
Blanc. It has weight, its spicy texture filled out with both
opulent fruits and a crisper citrus acidity. Glass stopper.
Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
87
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2012 Obere Wies Sauvignon Blanc (Burgenland).
Ripe, tropical fruit Sauvignon Blanc from vines close to
the Neusiedlersee lake. The wine has peach and pineapple flavors that are counterbalance by a more herbal,
grassy back taste. Because it is so young, it does need
a few more months in bottle. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
87
Sattlerhof 2012 Vom Sand Sauvignon
Blanc (Südsteiermark). Styria’s trademark
Sauvignon Blanc in its purest, freshest form. It has delicious acidity, pear and white peach flavors and a burst
of grapefruit freshness. Drink now, or hold for a year.
Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
riesling
94
Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Schütt Dürnsteiner Riesling Smaragd (Wachau).
From vineyards close to the romantic ruins of Dürnstein castle, this is a steely, tight, nervy wine, full of
citrus fruits, taut acidity and a a crisp texture. It’s still
very young, a wine that needs several years to really age
properly. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $74
92
Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Loibenberg
Riesling Smaragd (Wachau). Tight, bright
acidity leads off this elegant, perfumed wine. With its
white fruit and citrus flavors it is both rich and refreshing. A fine mineral streak runs right through this complex, certainly ageworthy wine. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $61
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Emmerich Knoll 2011 Ried Pfaffenberg
Steiner Selection Riesling (Niederösterreich). Ripe and weighty, this is a rich wine from the
Pfaffenberg vineyard in Krems. It has spice as well as
perfumed white fruits, a sense of structure and concentration. It feels warm with peach and white fruit flavors
likely to develop along with acidity over the next 3–4
years. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $66
Höpler 2011 Riesling (Burgenland). Riesling is a rare visitor in the warm climate of Burgenland. But its delicious perfumed acidity is all there,
bringing out white peach and lime flavors. Crisp and
likely to benefit from a year’s aging. Screwcap. USA
Wine Imports. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
white blends
92
Loimer 2011 Schell Mann in Gumpoldskirchen (Thermenregion). A blend of local
grapes (Zierfandler and Rotgipfler) this is impressive.
Rich, perfumed, its fragrant fruits a medley of mulberry,
pear and spiced apple. The acidity cuts right through,
giving a wine that is both very ripe, balanced and finely
textured. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
90
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2010 Leithaberg Pinot Blanc-Chardonnay (Burgenland). Rich, tropical fruit flavors. It shows a light touch
of wood aging to round and soften the intense and ripe
fruits. With the complex fruits, the concentrated texture
and the full-bodied character, this is a wine for aging
over at least three years. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
87
Neumeister 2011 Gemischter Satz
(Südoststeiermark). A field blend that’s an
Austrian tradition. It’s a delicious, precocious mouth full
with its apple acidity and fresh pink grapefruit flavors.
It’s a pleasure to drink now as an aperitif wine. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
other white wines
91
Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Satzing Rotgipfler (Thermenregion). A single vineyard
wine with the typical spice and richness of Rotgipfler,
a rare grape found only in Thermenregion, south of Vienna. Just off dry, so soft and warm in character, it has
ripe pear, lychee and kiwi fruit flavors. Ready to drink,
or age another year or two. Circo Vino. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
Neumeister 2011 Steintal Roter Traminer
(Südoststeiermark). Heavily perfumed Traminer that comes with the faintest pink tinge. The wine
has a rich, fragrant character that is shot through with
fresher acidity. Try this wine with spicy foods or as a
vivid aperitif. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Neumeister 2011 Steirische Klassik
Grauburgunder
(Südoststeiermark).
Grauburgunder, aka Pinot Gris from warm vineyards,
giving a rich, unctuous texture, a lightly perfumed character that also maintains freshness and attractive acidity.
Keep for six months. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Johanneshof Reinisch 2012 Rotgipfler
(Thermenregion). Rotgipfler is almost an exclusivity to Thermenregion. This bright, fruity wine is
deliciously crisp with spice, pepper and pear flavors. It
has a light lemon edge brought out by the refreshing
acidity. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 12.5%
88
Neumeister 2011 Steirische Klassik Gelber Muskateller (Steiermark). There is just
a hint of perfume on this orange peel and rosewater flavored wine. Crisp, clean and light, it dances across the
palate with bright, easy steps. The edgy texture adds a
touch of complexity. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
87
Höpler 2012 Pinot Blanc (Burgenland).
Soft and fruity wine with flavors of bananas,
pineapple and crisper acidity. There is a lively essence
of lemon flavor that shows brightly through the riper
texture. Drink this wine now and over the next year.
Screwcap. USA Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Spiegel Zierfandler (Thermenregion). One of two
grapes found exclusively in Thermenregion (the other is
Rotgipfler), Zierfandler, as here, produces floral wines
with intense acidity. This wine is bright, lemon and pear
fruits cutting the texture. There is just a touch of sweetness to balance all the acidity. Circo Vino. —R.V.
Price: $42
abv: 13.5%
86
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2012 Heideboden Chardonnay (Burgenland). Superripe wine that shows plenty of warm, aromatic Chardonnay fruits. White plums are balanced by intense
spicy acidity with a more rounded core. The wine has a
weight and richness that is cut by a grapefruit freshness.
Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
85
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2012 Muskat Ottonel (Burgenland). Often used to
make Austrian sweet wines, Muskat Ottonel here is an
off-dry wine. The wine brings out the perfumed character of the grape, a simple, full and ripe wine that has
rough edges. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
rosé
86
Winzer Krems 2012 Sandgrube 13 Rosé
Zweigelt (Niederösterreich). A deliciously
fragrant, fresh wine, bright and lively. It has intense,
tangy acidity that cuts right through red currant and
raspberry fruit flavors. Ready to go now. Screwcap. Total Wine & More. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
pinot noir
90
Johanneshof Reinisch 2010 Grillenhügel
Pinot Noir (Thermenregion). Bitter cherry
fruits and firmer tannins dominate this serious, concentrated Pinot Noir. It has weight and a youthful bitterness that needs time to round out. The juiciness and the
structure are both there for aging. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
86
Höpler 2009 Pinot Noir (Burgenland).
Juicy, light in color and texture, the wine is
ready to drink with its soft red fruits and fine tannins.
The acidity gives a little lift at the end. Screwcap. USA
Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Pinot Noir
(Thermenregion). Soft, perfumed wine that
has fresh red berry fruits, ripe tannins and a juicy fragrance. This is fruity and ready for drinking in the next
2–3 years. Screwcap. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
zweigelt
88
Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 Zweigelt
(Thermenregion). A firmly tannic wine, its
dry core surrounded by dark plum skin and damson flavors. It has weight, a potential for richness that will develop over the next 2–3 years. Solid and chunky aftertaste. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
ishes with juicy, fruity acidity. Michael Skurnik Wines.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA/1 L
red blends
89
Loimer 2010 Schell Mann an der Südbahn
(Thermenregion). Loimer, better known as a
producer in Kamptal, also has vines in the Thermenregion, south of Vienna. This perfumed, smoky wine is
deliciously juicy, a welter of red berries balanced with
acidity. Great fruit with just enough tannins to ensure
structure. Glass stopper. Circo Vino. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
89
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Nit’ana
(Burgenland). A big, round and soft wine, full
of blackberry and plum fruits, rich and generous. It has
warm tannins as well as touches of wood and a open,
ripe aftertaste. The name is a pun on the dialect—
nit’ana means “not one” referring to the fact the wine
is a blend (as well as the family name, Nittnaus). WeinBauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
86
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Famos
(Burgenland). Full, ripe black berry fruited
wine. Although young, it already has a soft and smooth
texture bringing out richness as well as fruitiness. Spice
and pepper add complexity. Not for long aging, this is
ready to drink now. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
other red wines
92
Johanneshof Reinisch 2009 Holzspur
St. Laurent (Thermenregion). Rounded,
smooth, rich wine from the warm Holzspur vineyard.
It has weight and structure as well, but it’s the generosity of this wine that is immediately striking and attractive. It can be kept, but is ready to drink now. Circo
Vino. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $76
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Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Heideboden Zweigelt (Burgenland). From the
Heideboden vineyard, this mineral, structured wine has
serious, dark fruits and an initial austerity. Spice, firm
tannins and a dark character offer the potential for aging over a good few years–give it at least 4. Screwcap.
Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Zwickl
Zweigelt (Burgenland). Soft, earthy, fullbodied wine. It has attractive red berry fruits, light tannins, a juicy wine that has open fruit flavors. Drink now.
Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
85
Ecker 2011 Zweigelt (Weinland Österreich). Fresh and fruity, this brings out the
strawberry and bright fruits of the Zweigelt. A touch of
tannin gives the wine shape and structure, while it fin-
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Edelgrund Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). The
Edelgrund vineyard, along the northern slopes of Lake
Neusiedl gives a powerful, structured wine. It layers
dark tannins, an initially stern mineral character that
needs time to soften. At the same time, the juicy black
fruits and tight acidity offer a more fruity aspect. Keep
for 4–5 years. Screwcap. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Salzberg Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). This
blend of Merlot and Blaufränkisch allows the ripe Merlot to soften the natural structure of Blaufränkisch and
bring out juicy, open, generous flavors. With berry fruits
to the fore, rounded tannins, a touch of wood and final
sweet acidity, this is a wine that will soon be ready to
drink. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
Price: $30
abv: 13%
88
Johanneshof Reinisch 2011 St. Laurent
(Thermenregion). Fruity, aromatic wine, this
is a few months too young to drink. Already, it is show-
ing its attractive wild berry and rhubarb fruits and soft
tannins. There is a juicy, open aftertaste. Circo Vino.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
dessert wines
94
Neumeister 2010 Saziani Essenz Trockenbeerenauslese
(Südoststeiermark).
Essenz is the style of wine given to sick emperors as the
ultimate medicine. It certainly has a life-giving character, the distillation of noble rot berries, honeyed and intensely texture. The wine has a pure feel, sustained by
final acidity. Drink now or age for many years. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 6%
Price: $NA/375 ml
93
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2006 Sämling Trockenbeerenauslese (Burgenland). Totally intense, perfumed, spicy and rich in
botrytis honey, this is a great sweet wine. Tropical fruits
are combined with lime marmalade, the concentration
balanced by formidable acidity. Keep this superb wine
many years. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $35/375 ml
92
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2009 Trockenbeerenauslese Essenz (Burgenland).
A blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sämling, this gold straw
colored wine is about freshness and acidity as much
as about sweetness. That gives this ageworthy wine a
great delicacy and poise, balanced and fresh, the honey
botrytis texture attractively layered through this delicious wine. Wein-Bauer, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $35
91
Höpler 2009 Pinot Noir Eiswein (Burgenland). They could make anything into
dessert wine in Burgenland, even Pinot Noir. And this
bright gold colored wine is a great success, combining
the sweetness and intense acidity with just the lightest touch of tannin. Age this wine for a few more years.
USA Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA/375 ml
91
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2005 Chardonnay Trockenbeerenauslese Essenz
(Burgenland). Luscious and opulent, this Essenz
is the purest elixir. It has a rich texture, unctuous and
smooth, the honey flavors laced with intense acidity.
The wine tastes delicious now but all that acidity will allow it to age many years. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 6%
Price: $40/375 ml
90
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Eiswein Exquisit (Burgenland). From grapes
picked in February 2012, this light, delicate wine is still
young, still finding its balanced acidity and fruit. It has a
soft, almost gentle fruit and honey character that hides
the intense acidity. It needs several years’ aging. WeinBauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 9%
Price: $40/375 ml
89
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2011 Beerenauslese Exquisit (Burgenland). Aromas
are all of honey, while on the palate the honey balances
with acidity, rhubarb and candied orange flavors giving
WineMag.com | 49
buyingguide
a wine that is rich while still keeping lightness. For medium-term aging. Wein-Bauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $23/375 ml
Sunny and bright, but brisk with acidity. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $64
89
92
Nittnaus Hans und Christine 2007 Zweigelt Trockenbeerenauslese Essenz (Burgenland). The tannins of the Zweigelt show through
the rich texture of this wine, giving a fascinating balance
between smoothness and a dry, firm, smoky core. Even
at six years, it does need more aging to round out even
more and bring out the natural honey flavors. WeinBauer, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $35/375 ml
88
Höpler NV Beerenauslese (Burgenland).
Sweet and dry, this is a wine that shows its
botrytis fruit character right up front. That’s paired with
orange marmalade and honey to give richness. The finish is light and crisp with acidity. USA Wine Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA/375 ml
germany
dry white wines
S.A. Prüm 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG
Old Vines Dry Riesling (Mosel). This is an
intensely minerally, dry Riesling that showcases an array
of crushed stone and earth elements against a backdrop
of heather floral and yellow stonefruit flavors. It’s richly
textured and finishes long with a feathery touch on the
palate. Palm Bay International. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $47
91
Dr. Loosen 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr
GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Intensely perfumed with notes of violet petals, potpourri and
herbs, this is a stunning, elegant Riesling that’s also
powerfully structured on the palate. It’s intensely ripe
with stonefruit, but quite dry in style with reverberating
lime-juice acidity and a deliciously astringent lime-pith
note on the finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
Price: $42
abv: 12.5%
91
S.A. Prüm 2009 Graacher Dompropst GG
Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 4.
abv: 12%
Price: $70
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Josephshöfer GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Smoke and crushed slate reverberate from start to
finish on this intensely minerally, dry Riesling. It’s linear
in style with a lean, steely feel, but is anchored by delectably bright Meyer lemon and orange-peel notes on the
palate. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $67
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mosel
94
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Scharzhofberger GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel).
Smoky and dark with violet and heather tones, there’s a
sexy subtlety to this complex, shadowy wine. The palate
is bright and sunny with ripe fruit flavor, but it’s quite
dry in style, with an intense shower of crushed minerals
and lime acidity that penetrate the finish. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $65
93
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel). This beautiful dry Riesling highlights intense minerality against a delicate backdrop of white blossoms,
lemon-peel and lanolin notes. It’s richly textured with
ripe tangerine and peach flavors that finish long with
a steely, honed focus. Valckenberg International, Inc.
—A.I.
Price: $NA
abv: 11.5%
93
S.A. Prüm 2009 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG
Old Vines Dry Riesling (Mosel). There’s so
much ripe, lush peach and quince flavor in this intensely concentrated Riesling, but the palate is dry and nuanced. Fruit melds into layers of crushed slate, ash, and
herbal green notes, finishing long with a hint of smoky
petrol. Palm Bay International. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $47
92
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Lemon rind and fresh, green herbs add a
flash of elegance to this dry, intensely textural Riesling.
It’s lush and rich with stonefruit flavor, but bristles on
the palate with lime pith and jasmine tea astringency.
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Kaseler
Nies’chen GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel).
This dry, remarkably minerally Riesling highlights tones
of granite and wet slate against a backdrop of fresh apple, lemon and tangerine. It’s broad and textural on the
palate, with sharp lime juice acidity and a hint of lemon
pith and herb on the finish. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $64
90
Dr. Loosen 2010 Erdener Prälat Alte Reben GG Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Lush
flavors of preserved peach are touched with notes of savory herb, lanolin and blossom on this dry, but deeply penetrating Riesling. Bright lemon acidity shines
through a textured, glycerine sheen on the palate, lingering long with a murmur of crushed slate and stone.
Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
90
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2010 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr GG Riesling
Trocken (Mosel). While elegantly fruity with hints of
fresh peach and apple, this dry, mineral-focused Riesling showcases a lean, intensely linear profile. Brisk and
revitalizing,it gains texture and astringency on the finish
with hints of lanolin and lime pith. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $65
other dry whites
93
Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im
Schloss Wallhausen 2010 Wallhausen
Felseneck GG Riesling Trocken (Nahe). Dry and
steely in focus, yet ebulliently fruity and floral on the
nose and palate, there’s so much dimension to this fantastic Riesling. Intensely ripe stonefruit flavors leave an
irresistible glycerine slick on the palate, but it finishes
clean with a shower of crushed-stone minerality and
steel. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $66
92
Prinz zu Salm-Dalberg’Sches Weingut Im
Schloss Wallhausen 2010 Wallhausen
Johannisberg GG Riesling Trocken (Nahe). Everything about this dry, voluptuous Riesling is intense
and penetrating. The palate is concentrated with stonefruit and yellow flower notes, and bristling with lemonlime acidity. Rich layers of crushed stone and mineral
oil linger deliciously on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Schloss Reinhartshausen 2009 Erbach
Schlossberg Monopole Erstes Gewächs
Riesling (Rheingau). There’s a voluptuous weightiness to this textured, floral Riesling. The palate is laden
with ripe stonefruits accented with hints of white pepper and lime zest. Finishes long with a shower of lemonlime acidity and an intensely mineral, lanolin slick. Palm
Bay International. —A.I.
Price: $35
abv: 13%
germany
fruchtig white wines
mosel
94
Markus Molitor 2010 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Perfumed on the nose with heady yellow florals and stonefruit, this is one stunner of a Riesling. It’s powerfully
concentrated on the palate with flavors of honey and
sweet peach tinged with lanolin and wax. Penetrating
and pure in focus, yet remarkably delicate in texture,
it finishes long with layers of crushed-stone minerality.
Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $58
93
Dr. Loosen 2010 Ürziger Würzgarten
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Smoke and violet florals add nuance to sweet quince jelly and yellow
peach notes on this vibrant, mouthwatering Riesling.
It’s delicate in frame, but penetrates the palate with
rich, juicy fruit and a shower of orange acidity that carries a long finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
Price: $64
abv: 7%
93
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2010 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Intensely earthy notes of honey and wax, and just the faintest
whiff of petrol, are enticing precursors of maturity within an otherwise delightfully fresh, fruity Riesling. It’s
delicately crisp on the palate, but ends with a long, lanolin-coated finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $42
93
Joh. Jos. Prüm 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). This
wine is unabashedly forward with sweet, juicy, stone-
fruit intensity, yet remarkably composed. Delicately
structured, it’s anchored with piercing citrus acidity and
a bristle of crushed-stone and slate minerality on the
finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $57
93
Schloss Saarstein 2010 Serrig Schloss
Saarsteiner Riesling Auslese (Mosel).
This stunning Riesling is a showcase of Riesling’s incredible propensity for dimension and harmony, balancing fruit and earth notes with an array of exotic spice.
It’s juicy and ripe with sweet stonefruit flavor, but shines
with piercing acidity and minerality. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $66
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Dr. Loosen 2010 Erdener Treppchen
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Lemon cream,
spice and lanolin notes add a mysterious veil to this
delicate yet intensely concentrated Riesling. It’s sweet
on the palate with ripe, honeyed citrus, and a delicious
mineral oil sheen that lengthens the palate. Loosen
Bros. USA. —A.I.
Price: $64
abv: 7.5%
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Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Dark, smoky
earth notes and savory dried herbs add fascinating complexity to intensely floral, sweet stonefruit and citrus
flavors on this flavorful, yet delicately structured Riesling. Lime and tangerine acidity reverberate on the palate, leading a long, minerally finish. Loosen Bros. USA.
—A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $64
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Markus Molitor 2010 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). This intensely fruity, delicately structured Riesling showcases
layers and layers of sweet stonefruit and qince jelly flavors. The attack is honeyed and rich, but balanced with
a shower of citrus acidity and a steely minerality that lingers long on the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $54
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Von Schleinitz 2009 Koberner Weissenberg Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Lanolin
and waxy lemon-peel notes add an enticingly savory element to sweet, intensely concentrated citrus and honey flavors on this crisp Auslese-style Riesling. Shrieking
acidity offsets all the juicy sweetness, leaving the finish
remarkably dry. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $35
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Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).
Semi-sweet in style with a ripe, intensely fruity palate,
this delicate little Riesling is surprisingly complex with
layers of wax, honey and lemon-pith that reverberate on
a brisk, minerally palate. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Editors’
Choice. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $23
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Dr. Hermann 2010 Ürziger Würzgarten
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). White pepper
and savory dried-herb notes add a dark dimension to
super-concentrated stonefruit flavors on this delicate,
almost gossamer-like Riesling. It’s penetrating on the
palate with tangerine acidity and a long, lanolin and
honey-coated finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $50
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Dr. Loosen 2011 Erdener Treppchen
Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Intensely aromatic with notes of orange blossom, honey and tangerines, this juicy, fruity Riesling is delicate in body with
a refreshingly crisp acidity. Whiffs of lanolin and dried
herbs add complexity and finesse. Loosen Bros. USA.
—A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $32
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Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This wine is
fresh and vibrant in acidity and structure, yet penetrating on the palate with sweet, ripe stonefruit and yellow
floral notes. Hints of lime pith and jasmine tea add texture and astringency on the long, mineral-laden finish.
Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $32
91
Markus Molitor 2010 Ürziger Würzgarten
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Scents of tangerine peel and lanolin add a spicy complexity to intensely fruity, sweet peach and nectarine flavors on this gorgeously honeyed, yet easy-drinking Riesling. Striking
lemon acidity and crushed stone notes add delicacy and
nuance to the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $54
91
Maximin Grünhäuser 2010 Herrenberg
Riesling Auslese 21 (Mosel). Notes of
hay, pollen and beeswax add a savory, honeyed tone to
this exquisitely dainty Riesling. The palate is intensely packed with sweet citrus fruit, but it’s balanced with
striking acidity and a shower of minerality on the finish.
Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 7%
Price: $83
90
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Dom
Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Whiffs of lanolin
and white flowers add freshness to this lavishly honeyed,
deliciously fruity Riesling. Its sweet stone-fruit flavors
are balanced with a spray of fresh lime acidity, giving it a
lingering but refreshing finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $19
90
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Kabinett Riesling
(Mosel). Smoke and crushed stone notes add a savory,
earthy element to sweet, honeyed tangerine and apricot
flavors on this bright, brisk, remarkably complex Riesling. It’s delicately structured but penetrating in style
with a long, focused finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $23
90
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Scharzhoferger Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Savory dried-herb notes and dusty, crushed-stone minerality add tones of elegance to sunny, sweet tangerine and quince flavors on this lithesome little Riesling.
Bursting with fresh fruit and acidity, it’s a refreshingly
easy quaffer with surprising dimension. Schmitt-Sohne
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $30
90
Dr. Hermann 2011 H Riesling (Mosel).
Honeyed lemon and white floral notes are
bright,brisk and breezy on the nose and palate of this
exceptionally refreshing off-dry Riesling. It’s nervy with
acidity and steely minerality, with a delicate spritz that
gives the palate extra effervescence and vibe. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $17
90
Eifel-Pfeiffer 2011 Estate Collection
Riesling Auslese (Mosel). There’s so much
sweet fruit intensity to this lip-smackingly tasty Riesling. Simultaneously, it’s brisk and bright on the palate
with bristling tangerine acidity and a hint of fresh herbal tones on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $29
90
Markus Molitor 2010 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese** Off-Dry (Mosel). The “**” designation on this wine indicates the exceptional selection process used to pick intensely ripe,
late-harvest grapes for this Auslese. Just a hint off dry,
it’s exceptionally full bodied with a rich, minerally palate accented by flecks of sweet stonefruit and honey.
Brisk acidity offsets the voluptuous mouthfeel. SchmittSohne Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $70
90
Peter Nicolay 2010 Erdener Prälat Riesling Auslese (Mosel). Intense smoke and
nut-skin aromas add an earthy, savory minerality to rich,
sweet Meyer lemon and orange-peel notes on the palate
of this delicate yet powerful wine. There’s massive complexity here, revealing itself in layers and layers on the
long, lingering palate. Miller Squared Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $40
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Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Ayler
Kupp Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Fresh,
green herbal notes and stony minerality add freshness
to sweet stonefruit and yellow flowers on this crisp,
dainty Kabinett. Bristling with acidity, the finish extends
long on a lusciously ripe citrus note. Schmitt-Sohne Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $23
89
Friedrich-Wilhelm-Gymnasium
2011
Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett
(Mosel). Fresh lemon-peel and lanolin notes add complexity to this bright, intensely fruity Riesling. Crisp
with acidity, it’s refreshingly easy on the palate, with a
delicate, lacy sugar note that lingers long on the finish.
Schmitt-Sohne Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $23
89
Loosen Bros. 2011 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel).
Intense lemon and lime-skin aromas add sheen
to ripe, juicy citrus, peach and honey flavors in this offdry Riesling. Racy and crisp on the palate, it finishes
vibrant and dry with lingering crushed-slate minerality.
A fantastic bargain for such a solid wine. Loosen Bros.
USA. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $12
88
Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2011 Ayer
Kupp Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). This is
WineMag.com | 51
buyingguide
bright and citrusy on the nose and palate with a distinctly chalky minerality and delicate, almost lacy, mouthfeel. It’s lean and focused with fresh lemon acidity and
zest notes that extend on the finish. Schmitt-Sohne Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $29
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Adolph Mueller 2011 Bereich Bernkastel Riesling (Mosel). Intense tangerine notes
are flecked with hints of powdered sugar, dried herbs
and potpourri on this pleasant off-dry Riesling. It’s easy
drinking with lush, slightly overripe fruit, but finishes
quite dry with a steely, honeyed feel. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $13
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Peter Mertes 2011 Platinum Riesling
(Mosel). Juicy and ripe with flavors of peach,
tangerine and apple, this is an easy-drinking, off-dry
Riesling. Delicately structured, it finishes moderately long with a pleasantly bitter lime pith note. Banks
Channel. Best Buy. —A.I.
Price: $8
abv: 9.5%
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2011 Fritz Fisk Riesling (Mosel). Green, herbal notes are prominent on this brisk, savory Riesling. Lemony acidity and
hints of bitter lime pith add a stark, refreshing quality
that would accompany rich goat cheese or cured meats
quite well. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: NA
Price: $13
rheingau
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Baron Knyphausen 2010 Hattenheimer
Wisselbrunnen Riesling Auslese (Rheingau). Delicate orange blossom and honey flavors meld
with fresh, green herbal notes on this elegant, yet lushly
textured, Riesling. The palate is off-dry with concentrated white peach flavors, but finishes dry on a lingering
chalky note. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $167
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Schloss Vollrads 2010 Riesling Auslese
(Rheingau). While lithe and dainty in structure, this little Riesling packs a big punch of floral and
honeyed fruit flavor. It’s rich and complex with notes of
smoke, caramelized sugar, and layers of crushed rocks
that linger on the long, orange-scented finish. SchmittSohne Inc. —A.I.
Price: $45/375 ml
abv: 7.5%
92
Baron Knyphausen 2010 Erbacher Michelmark Riesling Auslese (Rheingau).
Spice and lanolin notes are curious and enticing on the
nose and palate of this sunny and sweet, but impeccably
balanced Riesling. Juicy, supple, apple jelly and quince
flavors are offset by striking acidity and steely minerality that reverberate on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $126
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Dr. Nägler 2010 Rüdesheimer Berg
Rottland Riesling Auslese (Rheingau).
Hints of spice and pollen add dimension to ripe peach,
apple and honey notes on this decadent but composed
Riesling. It’s lip-smackingly sweet on the attack, but
sharp, steely acidity and hints of tea leaf extend long on
the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $48
this Sauvignon with spaghetti with vongole and freshly
chopped parsley. Empire Merchants. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
90
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Domdechant Werner 2010 Hochheimer
Domdechaney Riesling Auslese (Rheingau). There’s an earthy savoriness that adds shades of
mystery to this otherwise sunny, sweet, delicate Riesling. It’s concentrated with ripe yellow peach and honey flavors, but balanced with penetrating acidity and
a murmur of crushed stones on the finish. Slocum &
Sons, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $53
northeast italy
alto adige whites
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Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2011 Sanct Valentin Sauvignon (Alto
Adige). This is one of the most beautiful Sauvignons
made in Italy. The cool mountainous climate of the Dolomites has shaped a fragrant and elegant wine with
tons of exotic fruit, white pepper, dried sage and tangerine. There’s a touch of roundness in the mouth that
gives it extra staying power. Martin Scott Wines. —M.L.
Price: $38
abv: 14%
91
Tramin 2011 Unterebner Pinot Grigio
(Alto Adige). Pinot Grigio doesn’t get better
than this. Fresh and fragrant, this lovely wine offers
beautiful intensity and a soft, smooth consistency. Peach
nectar, tangerine, lemon curd and white almond all appear in perfect doses. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
90
Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano
2010 Sanct Valentin Pinot Grigio (Alto
Adige). This is a sophisticated and toasted expression
of Pinot Grigio that offers thick tones of exotic fruit,
apricot, butter, almond and butterscotch. The mouthfeel is creamy, soft and beautifully intense. Martin Scott
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
90
Colterenzio 2010 Formigar Cornell Chardonnay (Alto Adige). Here is a finely crafted Chardonnay that shows soft aromas of apricot and
peach backed by mild tones of melted butter and toasted almond nut. This wine is characterized by extreme
balance and structure that makes it perfect for white
meat or shellfish. Empire Merchants. —M.L.
Price: $38
abv: 14%
Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2011 Sanct Valentin Gewürztraminer
(Alto Adige). Sweet peach nectar and fragrant white
flower open the nose of this lush Gewürztraminer. The
wine feels slightly sweet and sticky on the palate with
rich density and a waxy finish. Martin Scott Wines.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano
2010 Sanct Valentin Chardonnay (Alto
Adige). Here’s an opulent Chardonnay from the far
north of Italy that opens with a thick, creamy bouquet
of caramel, apricot and honey. Dry mineral notes and
crisp acidity balance out those ripe fruit flavors. Martin
Scott Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
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Colterenzio 2011 Weisshaus Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). This is a beautifully smooth
and pleasurable expression of Pinot Bianco that offers
peach and melon aromas that are broad and compelling
in context. In the mouth, the wine shows density and
creamy thickness with enough acidity to keep the palate
refreshed: A perfect seafood wine. Empire Merchants.
Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
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Elena Walch 2011 Pinot Bianco (Alto
Adige). The cool climate of Italy’s mountainous north has shaped the crisp aromas of this well crafted Pinot Bianco. Pear, golden delicious apple and apricot open the bouquet and the wine is soft and smooth in
the mouth. Chambers & Chambers. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Josef Weger 2011 Gewürztraminer (Alto
Adige). This is a thick and sticky white wine
from Northern Italy that shows a fragrant bouquet of
exotic fruit and white flower backed by a waxy, thick texture in the mouth. That cool climate, mountain acidity
helps to keep the palate refreshed. Magellan Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
delle venezie
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Tramin 2011 Sauvignon (Alto Adige). This
gorgeous Sauvignon stands apart thanks to the
creaminess and richness it offers in the mouth. That extra density is backed by bright aromas of peach, white
flower, exotic fruit and dried sage. Winebow. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
Ecco Domani 2011 Collezione Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). Ecco Domani delivers
consistent, easy-drinking wines that work well on informal occasions, but don’t necessarily offer personality or
territorial typicity. But we don’t always want intellectual
wines. If you are hankering for bright citrus and peach
with mouth-cleansing acidity, this is a great choice. Gallo Of Sonoma Winery. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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85
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Colterenzio 2011 Prail Sauvignon (Alto
Adige). Beautifully fragrant and breezy with
summer aromas of white flower, green herb and exotic fruit, here is the perfect summer sipping wine. Pair
Bosco dei Cirmioli 2011 Chardonnay
(Delle Venezie). There’s a ripe and spicy side
to this thick Chardonnay from Central Italy that is fol-
lowed by tones of orange skin and apricot. The finish is
thick and chewy. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
Sartori 2012 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie).
Produced in large stainless steel vats, this is a
steady and commercial Pinot Grigio that touches all the
bases of freshness, fruitiness and simplicity. Pair it with
Thai spring rolls or dim sum. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
84
Antica Corte 2011 White (Delle Venezie).
Two of the most planted white varieties of the
Veneto (Pinot Grigio and Garganega) are blended here
to offer soft peach and citrus tones followed by a soft
and slightly thick mouthfeel. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
84
Bosco dei Cirmioli 2011 Sauvignon (Delle Venezie). This creamy Sauvignon from
Central Italy opens with ripe fruit aromas of citrus and
melon followed by a tangy point of sage or Mediterranean herb. It feels thin and shows mild acidity. Regal
Wine Imports Inc. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
84
My Moon 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). Here’s a steady value wine from Northern
Italy that shows easy aromas of citrus and melon backed
by fresh acidity and a lively mouthfeel. Pair this wine
with raw mozzarella drizzled with olive oil. CWS Wines
Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
84
Piera Martellozzo 2011 Terre Magre Malvasia (Delle Venezie). Terre Magre is a
tight and focused white wine with dusty mineral notes
backed by peach, lemon and white flower. The wine is
simple and easy with a lively fragrant quality that keeps
it cheerful and light. Franco Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Antica Corte 2011 Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). Easy, thin and bright, this is a
straightforward Pinot Grigio that makes for a totally informal, no-fuss drinking experience. It feels watery and
thin in the mouth with mild tones of grapefruit and melon on the close. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
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Cantina di Soave 2011 Volére Pinot Grigio (Delle Venezie). This very informal boxed
wine from Northern Italy shows a quality of fruit that
spans from exotic papaya and mango to slightly oxidized
tones of butterscotch candy and pineapple. It drinks
easily enough. MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15/1.5 L
easy and fast-drinking picnic wine from Northern Italy.
The nose shows tones of stone fruit, melon and citrus.
MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA/3 L
83
Ecco Domani 2011 Moscato (Delle Venezie). At the peak of the Moscato trend sweeping the United States, Ecco Domani offers this fun,
sweet white wine (with moderate but soft effervescence) that shows endnotes of golden delicious apple,
peach and white flower. Serve it as an appetizer wine.
Gallo Of Sonoma Winery. —M.L.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $NA
83
My Moon 2011 Sauvignon (Delle Venezie). My Moon is a thin and watery Sauvignon
that offers just enough aromatic intensity in terms of
peach, sage and honey to make it mildly interesting.
Pair with with spicy Thai spring rolls. CWS Wines Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
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Conte Brandolini 2011 D’Adda Pinot Grigio (Friuli Grave). This is a correct and clean
Pinot Grigio that offers easy aromas of peach and melon
with backnotes of yellow rose and pineapple. The wine
is crisp and slightly acidic or lemony on the close. Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
86
Tenute Grandi & Gabana 2011 Borgo
Crosaris Pinot Grigio (Friuli). Made in a
familiar style for those who enjoy easy and fresh Pinot
Grigio, Borgo Crosaris is appropriate for informal summer lunches on the patio. Citrus, peach and cut grass
are the most obvious aromatic elements. Uva Imports.
—M.L.
Price: $16
abv: 13%
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other white wines
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89
Loacker 2010 Ateyon Chardonnay (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). Here is a beautiful
Chardonnay from the cool climate of Northern Italy
that shows vibrant tones of citrus, tangerine skin, white
almond and honeydew melon. What sets it apart is the
zesty freshness of the mouthfeel and the wine’s crisp
acidity. Verity Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
88
Tenuta di Angoris 2011 Ribolla Gialla
(Colli Orientali del Friuli). This is a compelling expression of Ribolla Gialla that shows soft tones of
exotic fruit and peach backed by a smooth and creamy
mouthfeel. Pair this Italian white with fish baked in salt
crust. MS Walker. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
87
Talis Wine 2011 Sauvignon (Venezia Giulia). This expression of Sauvignon offers very
nice richness in the mouth thanks to its creamy density and medium structure. The aromas, instead, recall peach, apricot, yellow rose and honey. Pair this
wine with chicken tandoori. Vos Vinum Importing Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Duca del Frassino 2011 White (Delle
Venezie). This blend of Garganega (the grape
that makes Soave wines) and Pinot Grigio, here is an
86
Cara Mia NV Sauvignon Blanc (Delle
Venezie). Light and watery, this boxed Sauvignon Blanc offers simple fruit with some mineral and
citrus at the back. There’s not much here, but the freshness is nice. TLS Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20/3 L
83
Cara Mia NV Chardonnay (Delle Venezie). Here are three liters of oddly fragrant
Chardonnay. The wine offers jasmine and potpourri like
tones followed by jammy apricot fruit. TLS Imports.
Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20/3 L
pepper or dried sage backed by peach and melon that
gives this Friulano extra lift and intensity. It feels simple
and thin in the mouth but it does shows signs of territorial identity thanks to its unique bouquet. Palm Bay
International. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
Zuani 2011 Vigne White (Collio). Made
with the Friulano grape (with small percentages of international varieties), this is a freshly floral and
intense Italian white with lingering tones of peach and
honeysuckle. It shows creamy richness in the mouth.
Martin Scott Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Cavit 2011 Collection Oak Zero Chardonnay (Trentino). For full review see page 15.
Best Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
Bolla 2011 Moscato (Pavia). This playful
Moscato offers simple tones of tangerine skin,
white acacia flower and honey. Luscious ripeness gives
the wine a broad and heavy feel in the mouth. Banfi
Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $NA
sparkling wine
88
Arunda 2007 Extra Brut Riserva (Alto
Adige). This bright sparkling wine shows
creamy nuances of peach and citrus with background
notes of freshly baked bread and a touch of vanilla spice.
The perlage is smooth and persistent. Selected Estates
of Europe Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
rosés
87
Muri-Gries 2011 Lagrein (Alto Adige).
This delightful rosato (made from the Lagrein
grape of Northern Italy) opens with fragrant tones of
wild berry, white almond, stone fruit, white cherry and
sweet cassis. It feels fresh and light in the mouth and
would pair with smoked salmon. Polaner Selections.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Cantina di Soave 2011 Volére Rosato
(Delle Venezie). This bright pink rosato opens
with touches of apple skin and citrus, especially pink
grapefruit. This exceedingly informal box wine could
work at picnics or pool parties. MW Imports. —M.L.
Price: $15/1.5 L
abv: 12%
Conte Brandolini 2011 D’Adda Friulano
(Friuli Grave). There’s a spicy touch of white
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buyingguide
red wines
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Cara Mia NV Cabernet Sauvignon (Delle
Venezie). Cara Mia, or “my beloved,” is a fresh
and thin red wine that could pair with grilled hamburgers and hotdogs at the park. Fresh cherry and raspberry
are followed by a slightly bitter endnote. TLS Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20/3 L
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Duca del Frassino 2011 Red (Delle Venezie). Here’s an easy-drinking blend of Cabernet
and Corvina (one of the grapes used in the production
of Amarone) that would cheerfully supplement a softball game in the park or frisbee tournament. It’s totally unassuming and fresh with sour cherry on the close.
MW Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA/3 L
central italy whites
colli piacentini
87
Luretta 2011 Boccadirosa Malvasia (Colli
Piacentini). From organically-farmed Malvasia grapes, this aromatic wine opens with bright tones
of spring flowers, orange peel, tangerine, honey and
marzipan. This is a fragrant and sweet white wine that
would work beautifully as an aperitif choice. Flavors Of
Italy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
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Luretta 2011 I Nani e le Ballerine Sauvignon (Colli Piacentini). Made with organically-farmed fruit, here’s a warm climate Sauvignon (its
name translates as “the dwarfs and the ballerinas”) that
shows heavy aromas of honeysuckle, exotic fruit, candied apricot and lemon curd. There’s a waxy texture in
the mouth followed by more yellow-fruit flavors. Flavors Of Italy. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Castello di Luzzano 2011 Tasto di Seta
Malvasia (Colli Piacentini). Vintner Giovannella Fugazza has crafted a soft and plush white wine
with ripe peach and candied fruit aromas. The fragrant
grape used is Malvasia and the wine is sweet and chewy
on the close. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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Tenuta Villa Tavernago 2010 Selezione
Frassineto Sauvignon Blanc (Colli Piacentini). From the border of the Emilia-Romagna and
Lombardy regions of Northern Italy, this organic white
wine shows warm aromas of peach, apricot, caramel and
melon backed by touches of toasted almond and yellow
rose. The mouthfeel is chewy and thick. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
colline pescaresi
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Ciavolich Giuseppe 2011 Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). Pecorino is enjoying the
spotlight at the moment as one of the up-and-coming
varieties from Central Italy. This oak-fermented expres54 | wine enthusiast | july 2013
sion opens with slightly caramelized aromas of butterscotch, candied fruit and candied apricot. The mouthfeel is thick and creamy. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
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Talamonti 2012 Trabocchetto Pecorino
(Colline Pescaresi). Pecorino is a fascinating
white grape from Central Italy that deserves a special
look. This expression bursts open with tones of acacia
flower and stone fruit and delivers medium density and
richness on the finish. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
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Torre Raone 2010 Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi). This pretty Pecorino opens with bright
tones of apricot and honey followed by a thick, viscous
mouthfeel. Pair it with asparagus or creamy artichoke
risotto. Antares. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
colli aprutini
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San Lorenzo 2011 Pecorino (Colli Aprutini). An intensely spicy bouquet with exotic fruit
tones and freshly milled white pepper sets the tone for
this pretty Pecorino. The mouthfeel is driven by round
yellow fruit and apricot. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Colleventano Pecorino (Colli Aprutini). Colleventano (100% Pecorino) is aged in stainless steel to enhance
the grape’s natural aromas of ripe peach, candied fruit,
sage and lemon. The wine is bright and dense on the
palate with a playful touch of almond marzipan on the
close. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
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Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Rondineto Passerina (Colli Aprutini). Passerina is a
white grape from Central Italy that has enjoyed an enormous growth in popularity and quality in recent years.
This expression offers notes of candied or exotic fruit
with subtle tones of apricot and pear at the back. There’s
a nice feeling of thickness as well that would pair with
white meat or shellfish. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 12%
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Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Rondineto Pinot Grigio (Colli Aprutini). Rondineto
is a slightly caramelized expression of Pinot Grigio that
offers tones of butterscotch, candied apricot and sweet
honey. In the mouth, this Italian white is creamy and
thick. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
lazio
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Le Rose 2011 Colle dei Marmi Fiano
(Lazio). This is an excellent Fiano from an upand-coming producer in Lazio. Organic fruit is utilized
in this bright, fragrant and rich wine. In the mouth, it
tastes thick and smooth, and you can taste a bit of that
warm sunshine from Central Italy. A.I. Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Villa Gianna 2011 Vigne del Borgo Sauvignon (Lazio). Known for some of Italy’s most
beautiful sand beaches, you might not consider the resort area of Sabaudia (in the Lazio region) a farming
area for Sauvignon grapes. Despite the disconnect, this
wine brings together territory and variety with ripe aromas of exotic fruit, peach and subtle tones of seashell
and sulphur. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Cantine Lupo 2010 Terra Marique Vermentino (Lazio). This fresh Vermentino from
Lazio in Central Italy opens with fresh notes of cut
grass, peach and citrus. There’s a touch of dusty mineral that adds a dry feeling to the finish. Enoclassica Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Villa Gianna 2011 Innato Circeo White
(Lazio). From the Circeo appellation in Lazio
(Central Italy), this blend of Trebbiano (50%), Malvasia and Chardonnay opens with sticky aromas of honey,
ripe peach and candied apricot. The wine feels heavy
and waxy in the mouth and could use an extra boost of
acidity. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L.
Price: $16
abv: 14%
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Villa Gianna 2011 Bludigaia Vivace Chardonnay (Lazio). Ripe peach nectar and apricot fuel the rather simple bouquet of this one-dimensional Chardonnay. There’s a distant touch of freshness on the otherwise waxy finish. Wines d’Italia LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $9
terre di chieti
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Caldora Vini 2011 Colle dei Venti Pecorino (Terre di Chieti). This pretty expression of
Pecorino opens with a fragrant bouquet of wild flower,
stone fruit and sweet honey. The wine holds firmly to
the palate thanks to the natural richness of this indigenous grape. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Farnese 2011 Casale Vecchio Pecorino
(Terre di Chieti). Great for salads or spicy
Thai appetizers, this easy white wine opens with aromas
of white flower, honey, stone fruit and fresh peach. In
the mouth, it is balanced and slightly creamy. Empson
(USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Farnese 2011 Casale Vecchio Cococciola (Terre di Chieti). Surely, not many wine
lovers have heard of the Cococciola grape from Central
Italy. Here’s your chance to taste it. Fresh and fragrant,
the wine offers lush aromas of honey, jasmine and exotic
fruit. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
verdicchio dei
castelli di jesi
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Umani Ronchi 2011 Casal di Serra (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Su-
periore). Umani Ronchi makes some of the best Verdicchio you will find in the United States today. There’s
a sweet candied quality to the bouquet that is followed
by ripe fruit and pineapple. In the mouth, the wine is
smooth and silky. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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Fazi Battaglia 2011 Titulus (Verdicchio
dei Castelli di Jesi). A classic wine from
Central Italy, Titulus is packaged in that iconic amphora-shaped bottle and offers fresh aromas of crisp lemon,
cut grass and talc powder. With nearly 200,000 cases
made, the wine is widely available in retail. Winebow.
—M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Umani Ronchi 2011 Exclamation Point
(Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Here is a great value wine from Central Italy that
opens with grassy tones of garden herb and fresh sage
followed by citrus and white peach. The mouthfeel is
cool and crisp with a touch of fruity softness. Bedford
International. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
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Marchetti 2011 Verdicchio dei Castelli di
Jesi. Vintner Maurizio Marchetti has crafted
an easy white wine to pair with fish or vegetable curry.
The mouthfeel is thin and compact with bright tones of
peach, citrus and almond on the close. It is packaged
in a fun, amphora-shaped bottle. Small Vineyards LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
trebbiano d’abruzzo
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Talamonti
2012
Trebì
(Trebbiano
d’Abruzzo). Trebbiano is part of that great
family of Italian whites that refreshes and revitalizes the
palate—especially on warm summer afternoons. Talamonti delivers a pristine expression with grassy notes,
citrus and peach. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
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Caldora Vini 2011 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo.
Here’s a fresh and clean value wine (made with
100% Trebbiano) that opens with cut green-grass aromas, citrus and honeydew melon. Pair this wine with
fried finger foods. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
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Farnese 2011 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. This
bright Trebbiano offers aromas of cut grass,
green olive, citrus and stone fruit. The light, lean
mouthfeel would wash down with fried calamari. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
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Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Ancilla (Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). This Trebbiano is off gold in
color and opens with ripe aromas of apricot and candied
fruit. The wine shows some heaviness in the mouth with
afternotes of fruit and almond. USA Wine West. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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wine shows depth in the mouth with a touch of soft
fruitiness on the finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Le Caniette 2010 Io sono Gaia non sono
Lucrezia (Offida Pecorino). “I am Gaia, I
am not Lucrezia” is a fantastical expression of Pecorino
(an exciting native variety found in Central Italy) that
shows extreme sophistication and balance with bright
aromas of peach, melon and lemon curd. The wine is
soft and round on the long finish. Montcalm Wine Importers. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
Talamonti 2012 Rosato (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). This lovely rosato (made with
the Montepulciano grape) would pair with spicy Indian
dishes or Thai curry. The wine opens with a bright pink
color and segues to ripe fruit and wild berry aromas.
Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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Vini Iovine 2011 Falanghina (Pompeiano). Here’s a snappy and bright Falanghina
(that spends some time in wood barrel) with aromas of
citrus, tangerine skin, green melon and peach backed
by just a shy touch of vanilla and bitter almond. Dolce
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
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Domodimonti 2010 Déjà V (Offida Passerina). This bright white wine opens with pretty
touches of apricot, melon and citrus all presented with
delicately measured intensity. In the mouth, the wine is
light and lean. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 12%
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Le Caniette 2011 Lucrezia (Offida Passerina). Passerina is a native grape of Central
Italy that makes medium-bodied white wines with good
aromatic intensity. There are notes here of exotic fruit
and dusty mineral backed by balanced freshness. Montcalm Wine Importers. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Regillo (Frascati Superiore). Sweet aromas of honeysuckle and fragrant flower open the bouquet of this blend of
indigenous grapes from Central Italy. The mouthfeel is
slightly thick and viscous but there’s a touch of fresh citrus on the close to balance it out. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Barbi 2011 Abboccato (Orvieto Classico). “Abboccato” Orvieto Classico means the
wine has just enough residual sugar to make it taste
playfully sweet in the mouth. This expression delivers
that soft sweetness with one-dimensional flavors of melon and stone fruit. Try it as an aperitivo wine. Uva Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Villa Gianna 2011 Nobilvite White
(Circeo). Trebbiano, Malvasia and a tiny percent of Chardonnay are blended to produce a sticky,
slightly soft wine with lush tones of peachy fruit, cantaloupe and honey. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
rosés
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Vitiano 2012 Rosato (Umbria). Here’s a
beautifully colored rosato made from a blend of
Merlot, Cabernet, Sangiovese and Aleatico. The bouquet is bright and deeply floral with rose and honeysuckle backed by forest fruit and wild strawberry. The
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Angelini 2011 Sangiovese (Marche).
Here’s a fun and easy Sangiovese-based rosato
that offers pretty tones of citrus and raspberry backed
by a touch of bitter almond. It would pair with falafel or
spicy eggplant purée appetizers. Angelini Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
84
Tabarrini 2011 Bocca di Rosa Sagrantino
(Umbria). This is a strange rosato made with
the Sagrantino grape that shows the natural astringency
of this native grape from Umbria and follows with heavy
aromas of ripe citrus fruit, pineapple and even a savory
touch of old spice. It also shows a touch of sweetness on
the close. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
Price: $21
abv: 15.5%
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Villa Gianna 2011 Bludigaia Vivace Rosato (Lazio). Sangiovese (75%) and Merlot make
for a plain and simple red blend with wild berry and
fresh blueberry aromas. Beyond those notes, the wine is
short lived and fresh. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $9
central italy reds
forlì
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Castelluccio 2007 Ronco dei Ciliegi (Forlì). Ronco dei Ciliegi offers nicely-aged aromas
of cassis and dried raspberry with savory endnotes of
leather and spice. There’s some grittiness to the texture and the close shows dried fruit flavors of prune and
plum. Drink now. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Celli 2010 Bron & Rusèval Sangiovese
(Forlì). There’s a touch of bitter astringency
at first that should soften with just a few more months
of bottle aging. Bright cherry and blackberry open the
bouquet and are followed by subtle layers of leather,
tobacco and wet earth. Pair this wine with buttery or
creamy foods. Tuttovino LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2011 Notturno Sangiovese (Forlì). This is the kind of
easy Sangiovese that would pair with pasta, gnocchi or
pork chops. The wine shows natural freshness and pretty berry nuances. Drei Donà is a landmark estate for
the entire Emilia-Romagna region. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct Importing . —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2010 Notturno Sangiovese (Forlì). Notturno is an
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buyingguide
easy-drinking Sangiovese that delivers ripe fruit, prune
and a dark garnet color. There’s a darker, flatter and
bolder quality to the grape farmed in the Forlì area of
Emilia-Romagna compared to the same grape in Tuscany. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2008 Magnificat Cabernet Sauvignon (Forlì). This is
a standard Cabernet Sauvignon that sees oak aging for
added layers of spice and toast. At the core is a solid
base of red fruit and blackberry with easy endnotes of
licorice and dried spice. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
rubicone
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Umberto Cesari 2005 Tauleto Sangiovese (Rubicone). This is a boldly extracted
and concentrated expression of Sangiovese (with 10%
of the Bursona Longanesi grape) that delivers steady
and bold oak aromas. The wood influences are almost
too much but will surely integrate as the wine ages in
the bottle. Beyond all that spice and toast is a solid core
of black berry fruit and prune. Opici Wines. —M.L.
Price: $75
abv: 14%
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Umberto Cesari 2011 Moma (Rubicone).
There’s a soft and plush side to this edition of
Moma that comes forward thanks to the extra cinnamon
spice and vanilla present on the bouquet. Red berry
fruit and cherry add a note of freshness to the finish.
Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
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Umberto Cesari 2009 Moma (Rubicone).
This easy blend of Sangiovese (80%) and Cabernet Sauvignon represents the quintessential pizza wine
thanks to its bright acidity that counters melted mozzarella and its easy berry aromas that promise not to overwhelm the other toppings. Cherries and blueberries
add zest and freshness. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
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Umberto Cesari 2008 Liano (Rubicone).
From the little-known Rubicone appellation in
Central Italy, this blend of Sangiovese (70%) and Cabernet Sauvignon shows great aspirations. Ultimately, the
wine delivers its promise only in part. The fruit tones
are dark and jammy and there’s a toasted note of tar or
black rubber at the back. Opici Wines. —M.L.
Price: $40
abv: 13.5%
sangiovese di
romagna
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Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2009 Pruno Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). There’s a dark and masculine quality to this
Sangiovese from Romagna that makes this wine perfect
for pork or breaded veal. Dark cherry and prune are
backed by bright acidity. Vedi Vintners Estates Direct
Importing . —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Drei Donà Tenuta La Palazza 2008 Pruno Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Pruno is a very pretty expression of Sangiovese that delivers a concentrated, bright and almost raw
quality of cherry fruit. Spicy oak tones of cinnamon and
powdered chocolate fill in the back and render smooth,
dry finish. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Umberto Cesari 2010 Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna). This is a very satisfying
Sangiovese di Romagna that shows great balance between its spicy oak tones and its bright fruit nuances.
Those two sides of the wine meet perfectly at the middle to offer enough acidity, spice and fruit to pair with
pasta or roast chicken. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Tre Monti 2009 Thea Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Thea Riserva
opens with dark and austere notes of black licorice, tar,
black cherry and crushed granite. There’s a dusty quality to the close followed by a dry but fresh finish. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
Price: $21
abv: 14.5%
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Tre Monti 2011 Campo di Mezzo (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Campo
di Mezzo (Sangiovese from Central Italy) opens with
a dark garnet color and bold aromas of black cherry,
prune, plum and blackberry. It’s definitely a very ripe
expression of the variety with a touch of soft sweetness
in the mouth. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Tre Monti 2009 Petrignone Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). This
Riserva Sangiovese from Central Italy opens with sweet
notes of candied fruit and cherry followed by a light and
lean feeling in the mouth. Try pairing it with a simple
pizza marinara (with tomato, garlic and oregano). Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Umberto Cesari 2008 Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna). Here is a steady and clean
expression of Sangiovese that delivers steady pulses of
cherry and oak spice with smaller doses of cola and licorice at the back. The wine is dark and concentrated with
a touch of sourness in the mouth. Opici Wines. —M.L.
Price: $21
abv: 13%
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lived tones of tar, licorice, tea leaf and easy berry flavors.
Martellotto Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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Condé 2009 Riserva (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). Despite the care that has
gone into making this wine (it sees up to 18 months of
barrel aging), the results are slightly muddled and disjointed. Ripe strawberry jam is followed by toasted spice
and a touch of wood resin. Martellotto Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
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Costa Archi 2008 Monte Brullo (Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore). This Sangiovese hits the palate in a very direct and determined
manner because of the biting acidity and high acidity that will make your mouth pucker. At the back are
tones of bitter cherry and unripe plum. Sunrise Wines
. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $32
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Costa Archi 2010 Assiolo (Sangiovese
di Romagna Superiore). Assiolo is a slightly
tart and bitter expression of Sangiovese with sharp aromas of cherry fruit and plum. The tannins show an astringent and nervous quality. Sunrise Wines . —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
conero
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Umani Ronchi 2009 Cúmaro Riserva
(Conero). This Riserva Montepulciano may
be an acquired taste to some but it definitely opens a
fascinating window onto the potential of wine from Italy’s Adriatic Coast. It offers big, round consistency with
bold black fruit, spice and black chewing tobacco. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
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Fazi Battaglia 2009 Passo del Lupo Riserva (Conero). Passo del Lupo (85% Montepulciano with Sangiovese for extra acidity) is aged two years
in oak but is nonetheless a strange wine with candied
aromas of cassis and raspberry lollipop. It’s a curiosity
that might not appeal to everyone. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
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Umani Ronchi 2010 San Lorenzo (Rosso
Conero). San Lorenzo opens with bright cherry fruit and blueberry with subtle background notes of
almond paste and dried tobacco. Overall, this clean and
fresh red wine would pair with roast chicken or turkey.
Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Fattoria Casetto dei Mandorli 2009 Predappio di Predappio Vigna del Generale
Riserva Nicolucci (Sangiovese di Romagna).
This is an alcoholic expression of Sangiovese from Romagna in Central Italy with a gritty texture and savory
aromas of cured meat, leather and dark fruit. A note
of crushed mineral reinforces the wine’s overall dryness
and austerity. Baldocchino Fine Wines . —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Condé 2010 Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore. A small percentage of Merlot (just
5%) is added to this bright Sangiovese di Romagna Superiore for extra softness and cherry intensity. At its essence, this is a simple and easy-going wine with short
Fazi Battaglia 2011 Rosso Conero. This
Rosso Conero (mostly Montepulciano with
a small element of Sangiovese) proves to be a simple
and fresh option that would work with pasta or chicken
roast. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Umani Ronchi 2011 Serrano (Rosso
Conero). This blend of Montepulciano (85%)
and Sangiovese is perky and clean with a nice touch of
acidity beyond forest fruit, cherry and light shadings of
exotic spice. It’s solid, simple and easy-drinking. Bedford International. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
and a touch of chocolate appear on the finish. Saranty
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
rosso piceno
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Saladini Pilastri 2010 Vigna Monteprandone (Rosso Piceno). This red blend from
Central Italy shows thick concentration and an inky
dark appearance that is enhanced by ripe aromas of
prune, blackberry jam, plum and tobacco. This is a dark,
rustic and hearty red wine with a dense, velvety texture.
Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Saladini Pilastri 2011 Rosso Piceno. This
blended red from the little-known Piceno area
of Central Italy offers ripe cherry fruit and prune followed by a dusty note of Graham cracker or rye bread.
Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Saladini Pilastri 2010 Montetinello (Rosso Piceno). From the up-and-coming Rosso
Piceno appellation on the Adriatic coast of Central Italy,
this is a thin and informal red wine with fruity tones of
strawberry and blueberry in the spotlight. A touch of
sweet coffee or mocha appears as a distant accent on the
close. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Saladini Pilastri 2010 Piediprato (Rosso
Piceno). Perfect for meat dishes or grilled
lamb chops, this is a lush and soft red wine that offers
a cheerful and informal personality. Ripe cherry, prune
and light spice make for an easy-drinking proposition.
Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
marche
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Umani Ronchi 2009 Pelago (Marche).
Call it a “superMarche” wine. The blend is 50%
Cabernet Sauvignon with 40% Montepulciano and 10%
Merlot. It offers deep intensity with floral, almost potpourri-like tones of dried rose backed by cherry, spice
and touches of chocolate fudge. It’s plush and velvety
with medium intensity on the mid-palate. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
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Oasi degli Angeli 2008 Kupra Grenache
(Marche). Made with Bordò (a biotype of Grenache) in limited case production, Kupra is a special
wine that is clearly designed to showcase the potential
of winemaking in the Marche, Central Italy. The wine is
crisp, clean and elegant with a long assembly of aromas
that span from cherry and cinnamon to crushed white
stone and white pepper. The close is smooth and elegant. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L.
Price: $230
abv: 15%
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Saladini Pilastri 2010 Pregio del Conte
(Marche). Dark, sweet fruit notes of prune,
plum and rum cake open the nose of this blended red
from the Marche in Central Italy. Plush, soft blackberry
Oasi degli Angeli 2009 Kurni Montepulciano (Marche). It’s a little hard to get past
the cooked fruit nuances that hit the nose in a powerful and determined manner. Dark, inky concentration
is followed by jammy cherry, sweet jam with a touch of
smoked bacon. Vinity Wine Company. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
Canti NV Sangiovese (Marche). Thin cherry and easy fruit segue to slightly herbal tones
of rosemary and sage. This low key Sangiovese would
wash down nicely with a plate of grilled sausage. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
prune, toasted spice and leather. The tannins are sharp
and slightly astringent despite the many years of bottle
aging that have already occurred. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $53
Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Divus (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Divus shows nice fullness and ripeness with black fruit and cardamom spice.
There’s a touch of bitter almond that will soften when
paired with meat and gravy sauce or cheese and bacon
quiche. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
montepulciano
d’abruzzo
Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Donna Ernestina 18 (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This
fresh and youthful expression of Montepulciano shows
a very nice and proper side of the grape. The wine is
easy and genuine overall with just enough complexity
to keep the palate entertained. Bold cherry and blackberry is segued by bitter chocolate and light shadings of
spice. —M.L.
Price: $21
abv: 13.5%
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Ciavolich Giuseppe 2006 Donna Ernestina 48 (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here
is a great achievement for lovers of Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo. Dark and thickly extracted, this hearty expression opens with an inky dark appearance and lush
aromas of black fruit, plum, spice and chocolate fudge.
There’s balance and intensity here with enough power
and personality to recall the rustic and mountainous region of Abruzzo in Central Italy. Hold five more years.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $53
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Emidio Pepe 2001 Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo. Emidio Pepe shows excellent results with the 2001 vintage of his landmark Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. Made according to rigorous organic principles, the wine shows dark fruit and blackberry
with bold leather and tobacco at the back. The tannins
are polished and tight but the wine still shows more
years of aging potential ahead. Polaner Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $105
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Talamonti 2011 Tre Saggi (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). Tre Saggi (“three wise men”) is a
plush and rich, oak-driven Montepulciano designed by
an Italian winemaker who is an absolute expert on barrel aging and oak toast. Dark chocolate, spice, clove and
blackberry are presented in an incredibly soft and integrated fashion. Panebianco. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Torre Raone 2007 Terre dei Vestini San
Zopito (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This
is a lovely wine made from the Montepulciano grape
that opens with inky dark concentration and bold notes
of black fruit, prune and exotic spice. In the mouth, it
shows a rich, soft texture with chocolate fudge on the
finish. Antares. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $34
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Ciavolich Giuseppe 2006 Antrum (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Antrum is a hugely
bold and masculine wine that won’t appeal to everyone.
The appearance is inky black and the bouquet shows
Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2007 Riserva
(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This plush
Montepulciano is aged 15 months in oak barrel to deliver nicely executed tones of spice and chocolate at the
back of blackberry and bold cherry. There is a touch of
bitter fruit on the close that will pair next to cheesy lasagna. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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San Lorenzo 2008 Escol Riserva (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane).
Escol Riserva shows tight and astringent oak tannins
that need another two or three years to soften. Bold
wood notes of sweet vanilla and spice elevate this wine
in terms of intensity and overall richness and come
just shy of eclipsing the cherry fruit richness. Supreme
Wines & Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Barba 2009 Vignafranca (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). This Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
shows a juicy, rich feeling with bold cherry fruit, blackberry and a touch of bitter chocolate. It’s a broad, heavy
wine with ripe intensity and thick texture. Pair it with
rustic, hearty country foods. Michelangelo Selections.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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Emidio Pepe 2003 Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo. Emidio Pepe is an iconic leader of
the organic and natural wine movement in Italy. This
meaty Montepulciano d’Abruzzo shows some aromas of
rubber and Band-Aid followed by polished cherry fruit.
A soft and velvety mouthfeel is followed by cured meat
and bresaola. Polaner Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $78
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San Lorenzo 2010 Castronovo (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Montepulciano Castronovo is a soft and layered wine with strata of black
cherry, chocolate, spice and tobacco. The wine is loaded
up with wood spice aromas followed by thick density on
the close. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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San Lorenzo 2009 Oinos (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane). Aged 18
months in barrique, Oinos opens with a crisp and snappy quality of berry fruit followed by clean lines, good
acidity and light spice shadings. Bitter chocolate and
cherry liqueur appear on the close. Siema LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Talamonti 2011 Modà (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). Here’s an excellent value from
Central Italy. This plush and rich Montepulciano shows
soft fruit and cherry surrounded by very spicy and savory notes of nutmeg, cardomam and turmeric. It would
pair nicely with meat sauce, ground beef or meatloaf.
Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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Umani Ronchi 2011 Montipagano (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This expression of
Montepulciano opens with a good deal of spice and
chocolate backed by cherry and plum. The tones are
simple and well-defined, making this a great value wine
for homemade meat sauce and pasta. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 13%
a touch of bitter almond on the close. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
ry and spice aromas. The fresh acidity would pair with
pasta with cheese or cream. BelVino LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Umani Ronchi 2011 Podere (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This great value wine opens
with ripe fruit tones and blackberry followed by leather,
spice and bitter almond. It’s a correct wine with fun and
informal flair making it perfect for pizza or take-out dinners. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Bosco dei Cirmioli 2010 Montepulciano
(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here’s an easy
and bright Montepulciano with sharp aromas of white
cherry, forest floor and crushed mineral. It would wash
down with a heaping plate of pasta. Regal Wine Imports
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Canti 2011 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
This is an easy and thin wine with low aromatic
intensity and simple elements of fresh fruit and cherry.
The one-diminutional mouthfeel is soft and short. Prestige Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $10
abv: 13%
Perticaia 2009 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Here’s a pretty blend of Sangiovese (70%),
Sagrantino and Colorino that is noticeable because of
the smooth and seamless manner in which these three
grapes interact. Bold cherry fruit, blackberry and spice
make up the bouquet that is followed by a slightly gritty,
but firm mouthfeel. BelVino LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
Tabarrini 2008 Campo alla Cerqua (Montefalco Sagrantino). This is a bold and thickly structured Sagrantino that has all its cards in place
hold for a slightly disjointed note on the bouquet. The
aromas are raw and intense and those bright cherry and
spice elements seem to compete strongly against each
other. Campo alla Cerqua is aged three years in large
oak casks. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
Price: $68
abv: 15%
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Fattoria Giuseppe Savini 2011 Rondineto
(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Rondineto is a
sharp and thorny wine with strange aromas of pickled
fruit, green olive or caper. The mouthfeel is thin and
crisp. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
Tabarrini 2008 Colle Grimaldesco (Montefalco Sagrantino). This full and generous
red wine from Umbria is aged 18 months in casks, 18
months in small barrel and 18 months in the bottle before its release. All this to soften the notoriously hard
tannins of the Sagrantino grape. That firm structure is
still very apparent and the wine ends with cherry, spice,
and bold, super-ripe raspberry. Domaine Select Wine
Estates. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
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Ciavolich Giuseppe 2011 Ancilla (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Ancilla is a rustic and
raw expression of Montepulciano with a point of dried
apple skin followed by bright cherry and raspberry. The
mouthfeel is thick and chewy with bright acidity on the
close. USA Wine West. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Natale Verga 2010 Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo. Cardomam seed and Indian spice
give this wine a sassy and exotic personality. There’s also
plenty of plush fruit here as well followed by dry notes
of crushed mineral at the back. Jandell Selections. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Orion Wine 2011 È 100 Per Cento (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). For full review see
page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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San Lorenzo 2010 Sirio (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). Sirio is a perfect pizza wine especially if that pie has savory toppings like sausage or spicy
pepperoni on it. The wine is aged 12 months in large
oak casks for extra softness and a subtle touch of wood
spice beyond the bright blackberry and sweet cherry
fruit. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
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San Lorenzo 2009 Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo. Thin, bright and easy-going, this
food friendly Montepulciano offers immediate tones
of cherry and blackberry followed by a mild and gentle
mouthfeel. Siema LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Umani Ronchi 2010 Jorio (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Perfect for wood fired flatbread or bruschetta with thick slices of prosciutto, this
bright Italian red is redolent of cherry, blackberry and
Barba 2010 Colle Morino (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Here’s a strange expression
of Montepulciano that shows slight volatility with apple skin and cucumber aromas followed by a flat, but
smooth mouthfeel. Michelangelo Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Còlpetrone 2006 Gold (Montefalco Sagrantino). Gold shows unexpected sophistication for the otherwise overtly bold and gregarious
Sagrantino grape. Those prickly tannins you recognize
from the variety are wrapped by layers of spice, cured
meat and dried berry fruit. Vias Imports. —M.L.
Price: $119
abv: 15%
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Perticaia 2008 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Thanks to the super tight and astringent tannins
that are present in the Sagrantino grape, you’ll want to
pair this Umbrian red with succulent steak or a thick
slab of aged pecorino. Powerful and bold, it delivers
hearty aromas of exotic spice and dark fruit followed by
rock-firm structure. BelVino LLC. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Perticaia 2009 Montefalco Rosso. You can
recognize the Sagrantino grape instantly, even
when it is present in small quantities. This Montefalco
Rosso is comprised of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino
and 15% Colorino and shows a dark color with rich ber-
Còlpetrone 2008 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Bright cherry fruit and cassis open the bouquet
of this hearty Sagrantino. At the back are savory tones of
cured meat, leather and tobacco followed by firm tannins. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
Tabarrini 2009 Montefalco Rosso. This
Rosso represents a blend of Sangiovese (60%)
with equal parts Sagrantino and Barbera. The wine offers meats and chewy cherry flavors with accents of
spice and leather followed by a rich, velvety texture.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
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Còlpetrone 2010 Montefalco Rosso. The
blend here is Sangiovese (70%), Sagrantino and
Merlot and the wine opens with an inky dark appearance followed by bulky tones of black cherry, cola and
spice. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Tabarrini 2006 Colle alle Macchie (Montefalco Sagrantino). A touch of strawberry
jam at the outset suggests that the fruit came out of the
vineyard a little on the overripe side. Plum, cherry and
blackberry preserves are backed by spice and rock solid astringency that is characteristic of Sagrantino. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $77
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Castello di Montegiove 2008 Elicius (Umbria). This red blend from Umbria offers a decadent bouquet that consists of rich chocolate and bright
cherry intensity. The wine is smooth and chewy with a
plush, velvety texture. Leojami Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Barbi 2011 Streppaticcio (Umbria). Streppaticcio is 60-40 Montepulciano and Sangiovese with simple fruit tones followed by slight accents of
white mushroom, crushed mineral, black olive and caper. It ends with smooth richness. Uva Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Barbi 2009 Il Ruspo Sangiovese (Umbria). A distant touch of volatility opens the
wine, giving it a bright aromatic lift or buoyancy. Although those apple skin aromas could worsen with time,
the wine tastes pretty good now thanks to the fresh acidity and its lively, almost nervous personality. Drink immediately. Uva Imports. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
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Barbi 2008 Pojo del Ruspo Sangiovese
(Umbria). Pojo del Ruspo is a mild and thin
Sangiovese with sour cherry and plum at the back. The
wine is well suited to very informal occasions. Uva Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Falesco 2009 Montiano Merlot (Lazio).
Montiano is one of Italy’s iconic expressions of
Merlot made by Riccardo Cotarella and his family. The
wine is richly textured and soft with focused aromas of
black cherry, espresso bean, black olive and soft suede.
Despite the obvious heft and density of the mouthfeel, there’s just enough acidity to energize the palate.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Cantine Lupo 2010 Syranto Syrah
(Lazio). The winemaking efforts of Lazio (the
region that houses the Italian capital, Rome) are slowly
being noticed thanks to an admittedly small group of
quality-minded producers. This Syrah shows ripe fruit
and soft roundness with elements of prune, coffee and
cherry liqueur. Enoclassica Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Cantine Lupo 2010 Primolupo Merlot
(Lazio). Here’s an easy-going Merlot from
Lazio in Central Italy that doles out pretty aromas of
cherry, prune and black plum. The wine is smooth and
one-dimensional on the finish. Try it with pasta or pizza.
Enoclassica Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Principe Pallavicini 2011 Rubillo Cesanese d’Affile (Lazio). This bright and fresh
Cesanese opens with ripe raspberry and berry fruit followed by a fresh, but short-lived finish. The wine would
pair perfectly with toasted country bread rubbed with
garlic and drizzled in olive oil. Tosco Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
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Principe Pallavicini 2010 Syrah (Lazio). A
pretty Syrah from Lazio, this fruit forward wine
offers cherry, prune, spice and leather aromas. Dark
plum flavors are pushed forward over the palate thanks
to the wine’s soft consistency. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
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Trappolini 2010 Cenereto (Lazio). Cenereto is a 50-50 blend of Sangiovese and Montepulciano that shows a thin, streamlined personality with
bright accents of cherry and blackberry followed by tobacco and toasted espresso bean. The mouthfeel is flat
and waxy. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Villa Gianna 2010 Vigne del Borgo Cabernet Sauvignon (Lazio). This is a ripe and
slightly jammy expression of Cabernet Sauvignon with
tones of strawberry and raspberry back by a lush, soft
mouthfeel. There is a chewy quality to the finish. Wines
d’Italia LLC. —M.L.
Price: $16
abv: 13.5%
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La Tosa 2009 Luna Selvatica Cabernet
Sauvignon (Colli Piacentini). Luna Selvatica (“wild moon”) is an easy and straightforward expression of Cabernet Sauvignon that shows dark fruit, cola,
licorice and a touch of toasted spice. In the mouth, the
wine shows alcoholic power and some grittiness on the
finish. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
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Bonfiglio 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colli Bolognesi). This wine has shown impressive results for this price category in the past. The 2009
edition, however, shows a mature and savory side with
leather, cured meat, tobacco and cola. The mouthfeel is
thin and not particularly persistent or intense. Franco
Wine Imports. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $15
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Castello di Montegiove 2009 Mimoso
(Orvieto). From the Rosso Orvietano appellation in Central Italy, this red blend opens with easy fruit
tones of cherry and forest fruit followed by light spice
shadings. It would make a great pairing next to grilled
pork chops. Leojami Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Villa Gianna 2009 Barriano (Lazio). Barriano is a rosemary green and slightly vegetal
blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that is balanced out by a good dose of plump red cherry in the
mouth. Wines d’Italia LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Trappolini 2008 Paterno Sangiovese
(Lazio). This Sangiovese from Lazio shows ripe
aromas of sweet raspberry jam and strawberry followed
by thick heaviness or waxiness on the finish. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
other red wines
Castello di Montegiove 2010 Gatto Gatto
(Orvieto). Sometimes you need a light and refreshing red wine to serve with burgers or franks. This
informal wine from Umbria shows an easy bouquet that
is characterized by black fruit, bacon and cured meat.
Leojami Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Pinot Nero (Colli Aprutini). This is a vegetal
and slightly thorny expression of Pinot Nero that shows
the small berry nuances that are characteristic of the varietal followed by tar and licorice. The wine is aged only
in stainless steel to maintain its overall freshness. First
Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
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lambrusco
Talamonti 2009 Kudos (Colline Pescaresi). Kudos is an oak-driven blend of Montepulciano and Merlot that delivers lush richness and modern tones of black fruit, chocolate, cinnamon spice and
clove. The close is soft, long and velvety. Panebianco.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
Manaresi 2010 Controluce (Colli Bolognesi). Controluce (or “backlight” in Italian)
boasts a cool cut-out label and equally pleasing quality
on the inside of the bottle. Soft spice, blackberry and
bright cherry make their mark and segue to a lush and
soft texture in the mouth. Mucci Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Celli 2010 Bron & Rusèval (Romagna).
This 60-40 blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet
from Central Italy opens with a pretty quality of fruit
that shows bold extraction and still-young tannins with
an astringent bite at the end. The bouquet is characterized by red fruit, spice and leather. Tuttovino LLC.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Villa Gianna 2011 Nobilvite (Circeo). Nobilvite (Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon) offers slightly disjointed aromas of black fruit and prune
backed by green olive and caper. There’s a touch of
sourness on the otherwise short finish. Wines d’Italia
LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Merlot (Colli Aprutini). There’s a thorny, almost raw quality of fruit here that is backed by a touch
of dill weed and black tar. It feels tart and slightly bitter
on the close. First Tier Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
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Medici Ermete NV I Quercioli Secco
(Lambrusco Reggiano). Lambrusco I Quercioli opens with a dark ruby color and pink foam that
fizzes when the wine is poured into the glass. This is a
dry bubbly red wine that shows the perky effervescence
WineMag.com | 59
buyingguide
a fine balance between its crisp acidity and the ripe,
warm texture. It could age for a few more months.
Frank Johnson Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
ry fruits. They give a nervy, almost-mineral poise to the
wine. Warmth and ripeness come in at the end. ShawRoss International Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Château Coussin 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire). Full, rich and
fruity, this is a ripe wine. It is finely poised between this
richness and a more delicate, fruity character, lively and
bright. Age for a few months, although you can drink
the wine now. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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and acidity to pair with buttery pasta or cheesy tortellini
dishes. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.L.
abv: 11%
Price: $13
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Sei Amici NV Dolce Bianco (Lambrusco dell’Emilia). Although this wine is called
“Dolce Bianco” it is indeed a dark red sparkling wine. It
opens with an inky ruby color and bitter aromas of cherry, blackberry and cassis fruit. There’s a touch of sweetness on the close with foamy bubbles as well. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 8%
Price: $7
Sei Amici NV Dolce Rosso (Lambrusco
dell’Emilia). A touch of bitter fruit and dried
apple skin emerges from the bouquet at first and is followed by dark mocha and jammy blackberry fruit. The
wine is sweet, chewy and rich in the mouth. Prestige
Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 8%
Price: $7
Quarticello NV Ferrando (Lambrusco
dell’Emilia). Part of the natural wine movement, this frizzy Lambrusco opens with a dark raspberry color and easy aromas of cassis, sour cherry and
chopped mint. The foamy close is easy and thin. Savio
Soares Selections. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $21
provence rosés
côtes de provence
sainte-victoire
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Domaine Houchart 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire). A beautifully
balanced wine, crisp and rich at the same time. It has
the freshest red berry fruits that go right through the
spicy texture, giving intense full fruitiness. Worth aging
this wine for a few months. David Milligan Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Gassier 2012 Château Gassier Sélection Parcellaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence
Sainte-Victoire). There is just a touch of smokiness in
this rich, full wine that’s definitely made for partnering
with food. There are red plums, some tannic texture as
well as citrus and final crisp, fresh acidity. Opici Wines.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
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Mas de Cadenet 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence Sainte-Victoire). Celebrating
200 years under the same ownership, this ripe, full and
fruity wine is all that a Provence rosé should be. It’s dry,
rounded yet with a great line of red berry acidity. There
is just a touch of spice to give a final lift. David Bowler
Wine. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Château Maupague 2012 Rosé (Côtes
de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Vineyards
around Mont Sainte-Victoire have their own appellation, accorded because of the extra ripeness the wines
often have. This ripe, full, strawberry flavored wine has
Mas de Cadenet 2012 Arbaude Rosé
(Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). A
crisp, clean, deliciously fruity wine. It’s light, fragrant,
touched with red berries and attractive acidity. There’s
no complexity here, just pure fruitiness and freshness.
David Bowler Wine. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Château d’Esclans 2011 Garrus Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). For full review see
page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
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Château Sainte Roseline 2012 La Chapelle de Sainte Roseline Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). The top cuvée from Sainte Roseline, this
is a wood-aged wine. That gives a strongly spicy character on top of the sophisticated fruit. The wine is smooth
and complex, with red plums and fragrant acidity going
well with the elegant aftertaste. Vidalco International,
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Château d’Esclans 2011 Les Clans Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). The extra year gives
this wine quite different flavors from the forward fruitiness of Provence rosé. It now has a richer, more complex character and weight of ripe fruit, caramel and vanilla flavors. This is a serious, food friendly rosé. ShawRoss International Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
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Château les Valentines 2012 Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). The fuller rosé of the two made
at Les Valentines, this is rich, balanced and dense in
character. That makes it a serious wine, its acidity finely
integrated into the red plum and orange zest flavors. It’s
a perfect food rosé. Potomac Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Château Réal Martin 2012 Grande Cuvée Rosé (Côtes de Provence). With just
the merest hint of rosé color, this beautifully dry wine
has delicious acidity, refreshing red berry fruits as well
as a fine depth of ripe fruit flavors. It tastes young, and
would benefit from a few months more in bottle. Wineberry America LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Château d’Esclans 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Full-bodied and richly fruity wine.
It has good depth of flavor from the zest and red ber-
Château de Pourcieux 2012 Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). Full, rich wine, both fruity and
ripely textured. The wine has weight, concentrated red
fruits, with a touch of citrus. Typically dry, its richness
makes it seem soft, rounded and for food. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Château des Demoiselles 2012 Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). As fresh as it comes,
this is crisp and clean rosé, ready for summer aperitifs.
Bright red berries cut through a warmer texture and
bring acidity with them. There’s an attractive lively finish. Wine Wine Situation LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
Château la Mascaronne 2012 La Mascaronne Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A
vibrant, fruity wine that offers great ripe red fruits as
well as refreshing acidity. It has an edge of vanilla that
smoothes the wine out. Classic dry summer rosé. Integrity Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
90
Château Léoube 2012 Secret de Léoube
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The top rosé
cuvée from Léoube is full and rich. Find its generous
red plum and berry fruits well encased in a complex
structure. A touch of vanilla goes well with the final
acidity. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
90
Château Roubine 2012 Inspire Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Rich and complex,
this is a densely flavored rosé. It has spice and tangerine
orange zest as well as a more complex red pepper and
red currant character. It is a wine for fish or ratatouille.
European Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
90
Domaine les Fouques 2012 Cuvée de
l’Aubigue Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A
full, earthy, warm wine that has a strong herbal character as well as rich caramel and red fruits. It has a rare
density for a rosé, textured and ripe. Try aging this wine
for a few months. Chambers Street Wines. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
90
Domaine Sainte-Marie 2012 Vie Vité Extraordinaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence).
Here is a bright, very textured wine. It has a bright,
tangy character bringing out fennel as well as red berry
flavors. Crisp and tight, this is a great food rosé. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $28
90
Domaine Sorin 2012 Terra Amata Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Rich, full tasting wine
from the Sorin family, with smoothly ripe red berry
fruits. There’s an attractive orange zest character that
gives piquancy to this great food rosé. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
spice adds a fine, warmer touch. Wine Wine Situation
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
90
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Domaines Ott 2012 Clos Mireille Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Full in the mouth, this
is a tight, caramel and red fruit flavored wine. It has tang
and a textured character that suggests a light amount
of tannin. With this nervy, mineral character, the wine
could do with some aging. so wait a few months. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $46
89
Château de Saint-Martin 2012 Grand
Réserve Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A
ripe and balanced wine with attractive, forward red
fruits, laced with apple and spiced with lime juice. The
wine is full in the mouth with a hint of ginger and finishing with light acidity. Fine Terroirs LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
89
Château les Valentines 2012 La Caprice de Clémentine Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). A deliciously crisp wine, the acidity streaking through the red berry fruits leaving a refreshing
character that balances the touch of spice. Fresh, fruity
and ready to drink. Evaton, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Domaines Ott 2012 Château de Selle
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Light, fruity,
very crisp in character, this is an apple and citrus driven
wine as much as red fruits. There is an attractive, exotic
touch of pomegranate fruits that add an extra dimension
to this lively, fresh wine. Maisons Marques & Domaines
USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $46
89
Gassier 2012 Château Beaulieu Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Extra fruity, packed
with strawberry and crisp red currants flavors, this is all
freshness, richness and clean acidity. It has some weight
but this just emphasizes the fruitiness. Bronco Wine
Company. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
89
Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 Les Papilles Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A rich and
food friendly style of rosé, its initial red fruitiness hiding
a more serious, textured character of minerality and elegance. It would be worth aging this fine rosé for a few
months. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Château d’Esclans 2012 Whispering Angel Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A delightfully clean and fruity wine, the epitome of Provence
rosé. It has fresh acidity, crisp lemon and red currant
fruit and just a light sprinkling of spice. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Château des Demoiselles 2012 Charme
des Demoiselles Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Soft and rounded, this is a light and easy
wine. It has fresh citrus and berry fruits that dance easily together. Acidity gives a refreshing quality, while
Château l’Afrique 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Crisp and fruity, this is a classic
rosé. It shows a lightness that comes from the delicately
handled fruits, giving gentle berry flavors, bright acidity
and a textured aftertaste. Cru Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Château la Gordonne 2011 La Chapelle
Gordonne Rosé (Côtes de Provence).
The prestige cuvée from La Gordonne is full and rich,
packed with raspberry and red plum fruit. As a balance,
there is a taut, crisper side to the wine, leaving a bright
lemon zest aftertaste. Vranken America. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Château Léoube 2012 Rosé de Léoube
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Ripe red fruits
in a warm, soft texture. It’s a finely balanced wine that
hits all the buttons with its fruity character, touch of
spice and fresh acidity to finish. Classic Wine Imports,
Inc. —R.V.
Price: $22
abv: 12.5%
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Château Réal Martin 2012 Perle de Rosé
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). From the former castle of the Counts of Provence, this is an intensely fruity wine, full of strawberry, orange zest and
light spice. It is fragrant, fresh wine, lifted attractively
at the end with bright acidity. Wineberry America LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Domaine Jacourette 2012 L’Ange et Luce
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Bright, light and
totally fresh, this is a delightful rosé. It has wild strawberry flavors, laced with acidity. There’s some spice as
well, giving a balanced wine. It is fine both as an aperitif
and with food. Esprit du Vin. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Château la Tour de l’Evêque 2012 Pétale
de Rosé Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A full
and ripe rosé from the Sumeire family which owns a
number of Provence estates. This wine has freshness
along with its rich character, strawberry fruit and acidity
well in balance. Plume Ridge Negociants. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Château Roubine 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Crisp, tautly textured wine dominated by its zesty acidity and raspberry flavors. The wine
is clean and fruity. It is an immediate hit with its lively
final freshness. European Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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Château Sainte Roseline 2012 Cuvée Lampe de Méduse Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Round and soft, this is a generous, fullbodied rosé. It has the right fruitiness and acidity although its main thrust is toward weight and richness.
Given this character, this is a rosé for food. Vidalco International, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Château Thuerry 2012 Le Château Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Light and fruity, with
a touch of pepper and spice, this is a immediately attractive, red-fruited wine. It has enough crisp freshness as
well as richness to go with food. The aftertaste emphasizes both spice and fruit. Angel’s Share Wine Imports,
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Estandon 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). This is on the soft side for rosés,
a warm wine with a sense of Mediterranean herbs and
sun. It has light red fruits, spice and great final acidity. Screwcap. Southern Wine and Spirits. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Gassier 2012 Miradou en Provence Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Fruity, light-hearted
wine that pushes forward its red fruits, its crisp acidity and its bright texture. There is a dancing character
to this delicious, refreshing wine. Opici Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Château Saint-Pierre 2012 Tradition
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). A fruity, strawberry flavored wine with some depth and structure. It
has richness as well as a fresh citrus character. It could
benefit from some aging although it’s certainly ready to
drink this summer. Luxe Vintages. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Xavier Flouret 2012 Nationale 7 Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Made at Provence
classed growth Château Rimauresq, this soft and full
rosé has attractive red and citrus fruits, a hint of pepper
and herbs. It’s warm and ready to drink. Cognac One,
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Château Coussin 2012 La Croix du Prieur
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The second
wine of Château Coussin, owned by the Sumeire family,
is from a parcel of vines in the main vineyard. It gives a
rounded wine, soft, red fruited, crisp and clean. A delicious aperitif style. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
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Château Léoube 2011 Rouge de Léoube
Rhône-style Red Blend (Côtes de
Provence). Solid and tannic with a stalky character
both from young fruit and acidity. There is structure,
black currant fruits and dense, dry tannins. The wine
needs to age for at least 3–4 years. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
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Château Sainte Roseline 2012 Perle de
Roseline Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Deliciously attractive wine, crisp and clean as possible. It
has a light caramel edge along with a more fruity aspect.
To finish, the wine is light and bright. Vidalco International, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Domaine de la Sanglière 2012 Breezette
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Bright and crisp
with just a touch of vanilla along with the more citrus
WineMag.com | 61
buyingguide
character. The wine has red berry fruits, a light structure, fragrant, ready to drink. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
grant, a wine with citrus flavors over red currants, spoilt
by a metallic aftertaste. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
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Domaine Houchart 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Caramel and spice flavored that is
full-bodied and rich. With its weight, this red plum and
ripe strawberry flavored wine is for food, dry and finishing with just the right amount of acidity. Screwcap. David Milligan Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Domaine Sainte-Marie 2012 Vie Vité Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Full and rounded, this
is a soft wine, more suited to food than as an aperitif.
The apple and red currant fruits are textured and spiced
with lemon zest and mandarin orange flavors, finishing
with some richness. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
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Gassier 2012 Ormilles Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). An attractively fresh rosé with no
complexity but crisp pleasure from the wild strawberry
fruits and light acidity. Enjoy as an aperitif. Opici Wines.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
85
Barton & Guestier 2011 Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). Fruity, crisp, this is a classic Provence rosé. It is packed with fragrant raspberry
fruits, bright acidity and a bright, warm, sun-drenched
aftertaste. Drink now. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
85
Château la Gordonne 2011 Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). Full, while still crisp, this
strawberry and orange flavored rosé is ripe, dry with
a touch of pepper and a rounded, smooth character.
Screwcap. Vranken America. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
85
Gassier 2012 Sables d’Azur Rosé (Côtes
de Provence). Simple, fruity wine, crisp,
clean, laden with red fruits and touched by vanilla. The
wine is light, fragrant and totally ready to drink. Opici
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
L’Amphore de Provence 2012 Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Living up to its name,
this wine comes in a bottle shaped like an ancient amphora. Its fruit is more modern, clean and fresh with
just a hint of aromatic spices and orange zest. The aftertaste has a touch of vanilla. Bronco Wine Company.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
85
Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). The lightest of three
rosés from Gueissard, this is fresh and crisply fragrant,
going toward a more citrus fruitiness with hedgerow
fruits and lively final acidity. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
84
Barton & Guestier 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Fresh and fruity, light and fra-
Château Montaud 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). Caramel and soft fruits in a wine
that seems to be missing the zesty, crisp element. The
wine feels flat. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
82
Bailli de Provence 2012 Rosé (Côtes de
Provence). The wine seems flat. It has the red
fruits and acidity, but they seem flabby and dull. Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
coteaux d’Aix-enProvence
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Château Vignelaure 2012 Rosé (Coteaux
d’Aix-en-Provence). A complex, rich and
ripe wine. It shows both a tannic edge and full red fruit
flavors. With acidity cutting through, this is finely balanced, a delicious and serious wine that would benefit
from a few more months in bottle. Blue Coast International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
Price: $22
abv: 13.5%
90
Château de Calavon 2012 Rosé (Coteaux
d’Aix-en-Provence). Ripe and fruity, this is a
concentrated rosé that shows its origins in the rich terroir of Aix-en-Provence. That said, all the right acidity
and citrus flavors are there balancing the generous red
plum fruits. This is a wine for food rather than an aperitif. A Tres Vite. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
90
Château Vignelaure 2012 La Source
Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). The
second wine from Château Vignelaure, a vast estate
near Aix-en-Provence, this is a textured, ripe wine. It
has red fruits but also a great tang of orange and lemon
zest that gives it a delicious, refreshing lift. Blue Coast
International. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
89
Commanderie de la Bargemone 2012
Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Lively, crisp wine from an estate founded by the Knights
Templar in the 13th century. It is full of delicious red
fruits, light acidity and a nervy, mineral aftertaste. Hand
Picked Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
coteaux Varois en
Provence
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Château Routas 2012 Rosé (Coteaux Varois en Provence). Full wine, soft on the palate, its berry fruits ripe and forward. It has some weight
although the acidity is as fresh as it can be. The aftertaste is clean, clear refreshing. Screwcap. Routas USA.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Gassier 2012 Abbaye Saint-Hilaire Rosé
(Coteaux Varois en Provence). Varois is a
small enclave surrounded by Côtes de Provence vineyards. This wine, with its softness, touches of vanilla as
well as the proper rich red fruits, is a gentle rosé, easy
and ready to drink. Cannon Wines Limited. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
86
Estandon 2012 Terres de Saint-Louis Rosé (Coteaux Varois en Provence).
Crisply light and fresh, this is a bright and clean wine.
It’s just touched by vanilla that goes well with the refreshing acidity. No complexity, just easy drinking.
Screwcap. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
bandol
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Domaines Ott 2012 Château Romassan
Rosé (Bandol). With some extra weight, this
is a solid, red currant and berry driven wine. Its fruit
is right up front, backed by a mineral acidity that cuts
through the richness. It’s definitely a food wine, and
equally an impressive wine that needs to age for up to a
year. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V.
Price: $46
abv: 13%
90
Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 Cuvée G
Rosé (Bandol). Full-bodied wine, with textured and layering tannins as well as red fruits. The wine
has weight, a complex herbal and spice character as well
as final fruitiness and tense acidity. A wine for aging over
six months to a year. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
provence
red and white wines
coteaux d’aix-enprovence reds
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Château Vignelaure 2005 Red (Coteaux
d’Aix-en-Provence). Originally planted by a
Bordeaux grower, Vignelaure makes its top red from
Cabernet Sauvignon with the addition of Grenache and
Syrah. This now mature wine is a impressive, ripe and
rich, with mushroom, spice and a juicy character. Drink
now, or age for a few more years. Blue Coast International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
Château de Calavon 2009 Tradition de
Calavon (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence).
An earthy aroma with rich black fruits give a wine that
is full-bodied, ripe and soft. It has a warm, juicy character, a dry core surrounded by fresh berry fruits. Not for
aging, but open while firm now. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Château de Calavon 2009 La Réserve
(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Spicy, minty,
wood-aged wine that shows more wood than fruit. It
does have a rich character from black plum and berry
flavors so the wine will become better integrated. So
wait for 2–3 years. A Tres Vite. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
87
Château de Calavon 2007 Red (Coteaux
d’Aix-en-Provence). A mature wine that has
austerity and a severe countenance that is comes from
the dry tannins. Secondary fruit flavors are now dominating, giving some juiciness but also a leathery texture.
Drink now or over the next few months. A Tres Vite.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
côtes de provence
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and leathery in character. Dark plums and a solid,
chunky character are given a further boost by the dense
and concentrated texture, and spice and acidity. The
wine needs aging for 5–6 years more. Winebow. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
90
Château Thuerry 2008 L’Exception (Coteaux de Verdon). With vines in the Verdon
region in the north of Provence, Château Thuerry has
produced an exemplary Bordeaux blend, firmly tannic
and packed with black currant fruit. It’s ageworthy and
worth keeping for a few more years. Angel’s Share Wine
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
Château Léoube 2010 Les Forts de
Léoube (Côtes de Provence). Complex and
powerful, this wood-aged red has both elegance and
density. Its black plum and blackberry fruits are spiced
with an herbal character that gives an edge to the acidity in the aftertaste. Keep for 4–5 years. Classic Wine
Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $32
90
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white wines
Château la Mascaronne 2009 La Mascaronne (Côtes de Provence). Rich and
dense, this is a ripe, wood-aged wine, now showing maturity. It has weight, red berry fruits and a firmer structure of tannins. It is ready to drink, but could age another year. Integrity Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
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Château Roubine 2011 Red (Côtes de
Provence). Tight and stalky wine, the black
currant, spice and tobacco characters all pushed to the
front. It has a severe, more mineral style that shows
acidity as well as lean fruit. European Wine Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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Château Thuerry 2010 Le Château Blanc
(Côtes de Provence). Somewhat severe with
a stalky fruit character that shows tannins as much as
black currant fruits. Spice and a hard edge suggest a
wine that is never going to be ripe. Angel’s Share Wine
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
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Domaine les Fouques 2010 Cuvée de
l’Aubigue (Côtes de Provence). Firmly
tannic wine with blackberry fruits and a woody, stalky
character. The hard-edged and spicy fruit is on the
green side. Chambers Street Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
84
Les Vignobles Gueissard 2011 Red
(Côtes de Provence). A stalky, herbal wine,
its wood and black currant fruits are overlaid with a
tight, dry tannic character and intense acidity. It is
young and will soften, but that acidity is sure to remain.
Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
other red wines
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Les Vignobles Gueissard 2010 Cuvée G
(Bandol). Big, bold, tannic wine, very spicy
Mas de Gourgonnier 2009 Red (Les Baux
de Provence). A rich, tight, warm wine from
organic grapes. Red plum, firm tannins and a sophisticated feel give this wine both structure, dark fruits and
an ageworthy character. This is a fine wine, balanced
and with fine acidity. Vintner Select. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
88
Château Thuerry 2012 Le Château Rouge
(Côtes de Provence). A blend of Sémillon,
Ugni Blanc and Rolle, this cool white is deliciously
fruity already. It’s soft, rounded, full of lemon and pear
flavors, with a fine tang of acidity. Drink now or keep a
few months. Angel’s Share Wine Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
86
Château Roubine 2012 White (Côtes de
Provence). Herbaceous in character, this
a crisp, lemon-scented wine, still so young and fresh.
With its tangy character, it could well age for several
months more. European Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
86
Les Vignobles Gueissard 2012 White
(Côtes de Provence). A rounded wine,
herbs, spice and yellow fruits bringing out a full and ripe
feel. There is an attractive level of acidity that gives the
wine a lively feel while not losing sight of a warm, Mediterranean feel. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
white bordeaux
entre-deux-mers
tight tang to the aftertaste. The needs to age for a year.
Screwcap. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
87
Château Rousset-Caillau 2011 EntreDeux-Mers. A bright, herbaceous and fresh
wine, showing green fruits, lively acidity and and a
steely edge that adds a fine texture. House Of Burgundy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
86
Château Tour de Bonnet 2012 EntreDeux-Mers. Classic, open, herbaceous fruit
flavors with attractive light acidity and a perfumed character from the Muscadelle in the blend. The wine is
fruity, crisp citrus and lively final freshness. Screwcap.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
85
Château Allégret 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers.
Young, herbaceous wine, very fruity and lightly perfumed. It is crisp and delicate, with its citrus and
pineapple fruits already lively and fresh. Marsalle/Stoler
Company. —R.V.
Price: $14
abv: 12.5%
bordeaux blanc
90
Chateau de Launay 2009 Les Vignes
d’Elisa Muscadelle (Bordeaux Blanc). It
must be unique to find any Bordeaux in a Burgundy
style bottle. Certainly this ultra-rich wine owes much
to Burgundian Chardonnay. But under the sweet fruit,
there is no mistaking the Muscadelle perfume and spice
that give a bite, a dry, peppery finish and a very different
character Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
87
Calvet 2012 Réserve Sauvignon Blanc
(Bordeaux Blanc). Just bottled when tasted,
this is a wine that needs a few months to come together.
Its ripe pear and apricot fruit and dense flavor will offer
a full, rounded wine that goes more for a tropical Sauvignon Blanc character. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
87
Château Briot 2012 Bordeaux Blanc.
Crisp, lightly herbaceous wine with a delicious
creamy apple and pear character. This is finely balanced
with a lively, crisp aftertaste. Screwcap. Jandell Selections. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
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Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2012
Entre-Deux-Mers. A green, herbal wine,
very crisp, still young with acidity, mineral acidity and a
bright, lively aftertaste. The wine is tangy with citrus at
the end. Keep for six months to a year. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $12
abv: 12%
Château La Rose du Pin 2012 EntreDeux-Mers. Full in style, this is a lemon-scented, peach-flavored wine. It has some richness to it both
from the ripe fruit and the textured acidity that gives a
Château Larroque 2012 Bordeaux Blanc.
Rounded wine, showing ripe tropical flavors as
well as a more citrus character. The wine is full, attractively textured with a buttery edge. Spice and green
herbs come through to finish. Screwcap. Baystate Wine
& Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
Château du Pin Franc 2012 Bordeaux
Blanc. A simple, youthful white, perfumed
and spicy as well as crisply fruity. From the Entre-deuxMers region, it is cool, clean, laden with green plums
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and white currant flavors. For aging over the next few
months. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
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Château Fonfroide 2011 Bordeaux Blanc.
A round and full flavored wine. It is soft with
apple and pear flavors, lifted by a touch of lemon zest.
There is some weight to this ripe, dry, finally crisp wine.
Keep for a few more months. Advantage International.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
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Calvet 2011 Limited Release Sauvignon
Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). Just what the label
says, this is fresh, fruity, simple and attractive Sauvignon
Blanc. Lemon, crisp apple peel and fragrant acidity all
meld easily together. Screwcap. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
crisp acidity although without much definition. The
aftertaste is clean, bringing out attractive citrus and
red currant fruits. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits.
—R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
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Château Ramage la Batisse 2012 La Rosée de Ramage (Bordeaux Rosé). There
is a vivid pink color on this caramel and ripe fruit-flavored wine. It has weight, probably too much, losing the
freshness and acidity. Vanilla and super-ripe strawberries dominate. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Château de Beauregard-Ducourt 2012
Bordeaux Rosé. Pink in color, this is a full
wine that misses out on freshness. It is clean with ripe
strawberry fruits, but it feels fat and heavy. Screwcap.
Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
haut-médoc
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Château Lestage Simon 2010 Haut-Médoc. Dark colored wine, revealing wood aging
both aromatically and to taste. That said, it also has great
weight, a powerful and complex wine with its coffee,
dried fruit and black plum flavors. It’s an impressive,
solid wine that deserves at least seven years’ aging. Advantage International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Château Tourteran 2010 Haut-Médoc.
Powerful, concentrated wine, a very solid Cabernet-dominated wine. It has dark tannins, the black
currant fruit still hiding in the background. Dark and
dense, it’s destined for good aging, at least over the next
six years. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Château Ramage la Batisse 2010 R de
Ramage (Haut-Médoc). One of the second
wines of Château Ramage la Batisse, this is the better
of the two. It shows ripe and juicy black fruits that push
through the dense structure to promise a rich future. It’s
worth aging this wine for 3–5 years and more. Vintage
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
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red bordeaux
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Château d’Haurets 2012 Bordeaux Blanc.
Still very young, this is a crisply fresh wine, all
lemon zest and apple skin flavors. There is a young,
green element here that needs to soften over the next
few months. Screwcap. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
Price: $12
abv: 12%
Château de Lagarde 2012 Les Hauts de
Lagarde (Bordeaux Blanc). Lightly crisp
and herbaceous, this is an attractively youthful and
fruity wine. Lemon and crisp pear flavors dominate.
Bright and aromatic, it’s ready to drink. Natural Merchants LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Château Laubès 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Bordeaux Blanc). A bright, herbaceous wine
that is full of citrus and grapefruit flavors. These go with
a tangy character, crisp and hinting at black currants and
more tropical fruit. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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Château la Hargue 2012 Moelleux (Bordeaux Blanc). Just lightly sweet, this is a curious wine that is neither one thing or the other. It’s clean,
has some peach flavor and light acidity. Baystate Wine
& Spirits. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $13
rosés
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Château de Belcier 2012 Fleurs de Belcier (Bordeaux Rosé). Full-bodied rosé, giving
plenty of ripe red fruit flavors as well as attractive acidity. It’s dry, textured while still fresh and lively. Vintage
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Calvet 2011 Limited Release Rosé (Bordeaux Rosé). Light and fruity, a wine with
touches of typical Cabernet Franc perfume. The wine is
dry, crisp with raspberry flavors and a spicy, fresh aftertaste. Screwcap. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
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Château d’Haurets 2012 Bordeaux Rosé.
Lightly fruity and fresh, a wine that has some
Château de Piote 2012 Bordeaux Clairet.
Bordeaux Claret has a darker color than a rosé,
suggesting more weight. This wine, though, also has a
green herbal edge that is less attractive. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Château Larroque 2012 Bordeaux Rosé.
Intensely acidic wine, its red fruits and caramel
hidden behind a tart, over-lemoned flavor. For lovers of
mouth-shockingly dry rosé. Screwcap. Baystate Wine &
Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
médoc
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Château le Temple 2009 Médoc. Rich and
smooth, this is a good example of the sumptuous 2009 vintage. It is soft, ripe with blackberry and red
plum fruits. It is already developing well. It’s a mediumterm wine, already juicy and drinkable. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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Château de la Croix 2009 Médoc. A solid,
ripe, juicy black fruited wine, delicious already
with its fragrant fruits. It has structure that supports the
attractive surface, giving shape to this lightly textured
wine. Keep for 4–5 years, but also drink now. Serge
Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
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Château Magnol 2011 Les Charmes de
Magnol (Médoc). The second wine of Château Magnol, this is a ripe, smoke and wood flavored
wine. It has spice, attractive black currant fruits and
some—not too many—firm tannins. With its inherent
fruitiness it will be ready to drink this year. Barton &
Guestier USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Château Magnol 2011 Haut-Médoc. Château Magnol, owned by negociant Barton &
Guestier, has produced a 2011 that is wood-laden at this
stage. It boasts tannins, a tight line in black currant fruit,
and a dry core of wood. This needs at least three years to
round out and soften. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
Château Ramage la Batisse 2010
L’Enclose de Ramage (Haut-Médoc). The
second wine of Château Ramage la Batisse, L’Enclos is
ripe and fruity. It has a sense of structure although this
is played down by the rich black currant fruits. Acidity
cuts through the general richness of this medium-aging
wine. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Grands Terroirs de France 2010 HautMédoc. Firmly tannic yet with the potential
of good black currant fruit, this is a fine reflection of
the vintage, rich and fruity, layered with considerably
fresh acidity. Drink now, or give it a year. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $NA
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Grands Terroirs de France 2009 HautMédoc. Lush, full and fruity, here is a generous, open wine. Its black plum and red berry fruits are
right to the fore giving a smooth, rich character. There
is a smoky wood taste at the end. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Château du Cartillon 2010 Haut-Médoc.
While wood aging is an integral part of fine
Bordeaux, with this wine it is just too much. While it
is young, the wood, raw and dominant, submerges the
fruit to give a wine that is dense, very dry and hard at the
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blaye
Château La Croix-Davids 2010 Côtes de
Bourg. Smooth, wood-aged wine that has wellbalanced red fruit flavors to go with the ripe tannins. A
touch of mint reveals the new wood in the aging that
has produced a fine, rich wine that will age well over the
next five years. Pierre Wine Group. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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edges. It’s not likely to ever lose this quality. Advantage
International. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
Château Crusquet de Lagarcie 2008 Premieres Côtes de Blaye. Satisfyingly ripe
wine, now approaching maturity. It has just the right
weight from the black currant fruits, the more mature
leather texture and the firm tannins that give a dry core.
The wine could age for several more years, but is ready
to drink now. Serge Doré Selections. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Château Moulin de Grillet 2005 Les Ailes
du Moulin (Premieres Côtes de Blaye).
Modern style of wine, with hints of polished wood, mint
flavors and a strong sense of structure. Along with the
blackberry fruit, still showing no signs of age, the wine
has concentration and elegance. It’s a wine for more
aging over another 4–5 years. Serge Doré Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
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Château Moulin de Grillet 2003 Les Ailes
du Moulin (Premieres Côtes de Blaye).
It’s rare to find a 10-year old Bordeaux just arrived in
this country. This now mature wine is full and rich, its
weight coming from spice and textured tannins that are
laced with acidity. It is initially dry, but does open out to
give a juicy, if mature, character but is unlikely to age.
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70
côtes de bourg
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Château de la Grave 2010 Caractère
(Côtes de Bourg). A rich, velvet textured
wine, full of dense, dusty tannins and sweet black Merlot fruits. The wine is concentrated, ripe and powerful,
with a dark texture that is both impressive and ageworthy. Give this wine at least 5–6 years. Bourgeois Family
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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Château Tour de Guiet 2010 Grand Vin
(Côtes de Bourg). Big, rich, dense wine,
packed with dark tannins and blackberry fruits. The
wine has concentration, layering wood aging with
youthful acidity that shines through the structure. An
impressive wine that needs aging for at least five years.
Cav a’Vin. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Château Fougas 2010 Maldoror (Côtes
de Bourg). A perfumed wine, dominated by
Merlot. It shows plenty of the structure of 2010, a firm
and solid wine, full of oak aging flavors at this young
stage. It’s going to be a rich and full wine layered with
blackberry fruits as it develops over the next 4–5 years.
MacArthur Beverages. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 13%
Château Dupeyrat Plouget 2010 Cru de
Plouget (Côtes de Bourg). Stalky wine, its
black currant fruits tight and still developing. It has a
juicy character that comes from the intense youthful acidity and that will blend over the next 4–5 years.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Château Tour de Guiet 2010 Excellence
(Côtes de Bourg). Structured wine with a severe edge from the dry, concentrated tannins. It’s serious, stalky fruit layered with a more juicy element and
tight acidity. The wine does need aging to soften its austere character. Cav a’Vin. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Château Martinat 2010 Côtes de Bourg.
Very dark and dense, this is a wine that is dominated by a touch extracted character. It has weight, with
the slightest hint of fruit under the dry surface. Chocolate and licorice flavors are prominent at this stage. It
will need at least 5–6 years to develop. Moonlight Wine
Company. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Château Laroche Joubert 2010 Côtes de
Bourg. Firm, closed wine that exhibits a strong
tannin character. The wine is powerful and dense, its
black plum fruits lying under the dry structure. There is
a touch of alcohol burn—a shame in an otherwise wellmade wine. LVDH USA Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
saint-émilion
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Château Laroque 2005 Saint-Émilion.
Now developing into an impressive, maturing
wine, this is rich and complex. It has well integrated
tannins that bring out sweet acidity, spice and finely
lightly roasted coffee. Ready to drink, it should certainly
keep for at least six years and probably more. The Wine
Group. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $55
abv: 13.5%
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Chateau Peymouton 2010 Saint-Émilion.
A powerful, firm wine, very solid and rich. With
red plum and blackberry fruits, dense tannins and a
touch of wood aging, the wine shows considerable potential. It is already balanced but will benefit from at
least six years’ aging. Advantage International. Editors’
Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
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Clos Larcis 2009 Saint-Émilion. Rich, concentrated wine, with generous fruits and soft
tannins. It has super-ripe black plums, a touch of chocolate and spice from wood aging. Powerful, juicy, fruity,
likely to age well over the medium-term, over the next
3–4 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $125
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Château Cantin 2010 Saint-Émilion. The
wine feels very dense, juicy, dark and concentrated. It has a huge feel to it, a powerful wine that will
need several years to fully soften and round it. And, At
15.5% alcohol, this is way too heavy for a Bordeaux. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
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Château Chauvin 2011 Vieux Château
Chauvin (Saint-Émilion). The second wine
of Château Chauvin is a structured, perfumed wine
with its high proportion of Cabernet Franc giving much
of its potential richness and spice. The tannins are solid
and will always show well as an integral part of this complex wine. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
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Grands Terroirs de France 2010 Grand
Cru (Saint-Émilion). This is super-rich, but
wears its high alcohol lightly. That gives great full fruit,
blackberry flavors, a juicy ripe wine that balances the
wood and acidity to give fine potential for a year’s time.
Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
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Grands Terroirs de France 2010 SaintÉmilion. A stalky wine, its black currant fruit
flavors covered with smoky wood and tough tannins.
For a wine in a branded Bordeaux range, it’s remarkably firm and hard to access. Marsalle/Stoler Company.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
castillon côtes de
bordeaux
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Château de Belcier 2010 B de Belcier
(Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). Belcier is
on the slope that continues east from Saint-Émilion.
With this provenance, this single vineyard wine offers
rich Merlot to go with the more structured Cabernet
fruit. It has weight, the wood well judged and supporting the ripe fruit flavors. Age this wine for at least five
years. Vintage Imports, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
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Château de Monbadon 2010 Castillon
Côtes de Bordeaux. Structured, concentrated wine, showing the firm texture of the vintage with
firm tannins balancing intense acidity. The wine has
power—witness the alcohol—but this is contained in
a more elegant texture. Best to age this wine for 4–5
years. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Château de Belcier 2010 Le Pin de Belcier (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). With
aromas dominated by minty new wood, this is a modern style of wine, the wood on the palate very dominant. There is enough black currant fruit to promise a
rounding out of what at the moment is a dry, densely
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structured wine. Keep for 4–5 years. Vintage Imports,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
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Château de Monbadon 2009 Castillon
Côtes de Bordeaux. Owned by the Barons of
Montfort, its vineyard has produced a much less rugged
wine than the formidable fortress suggests. The black
currant flavors are present, along with stalky tannins.
There is a smoky, wood element that comes through
strongly at the end, so age this wine for 3–4 years. P.R.
Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Château de Monrecueil 2010 Castillon
Côtes de Bordeaux. Produced by the winemaking team of Château de Belcier in Castillon, this is a
firmly structured, dry to the core wine. There are hints
of ripe and juicy berry fruits to go with the dark tannins
and dense texture. It needs several years to age. Vintage
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
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Château de Belcier 2010 Les Armoiries
de Belcier (Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux).
From selected parcels, this solid and dark wine has extracted chocolate flavors from an over-enthusiastic use
of wood. It’s tough, and hard to see how it can really
soften sufficiently to allow the fruit to surface. Vintage
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
bordeaux
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Petite Sirène 2010 Bordeaux. Produced
by the winemaking team of Château Giscours
in Margaux, this is impressive for a simple Bordeaux.
It has weight, rich blackberry fruits, structure and concentration. It could even age. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Château les Ancres 2010 Bordeaux. A
firm, still young wine, wearing its tannins right
up front. The berry and black plum fruits are there in
the background along with considerable weight. The
wine, rich and full, will develop over the next 2–3 years.
Bourgeois Family Selections. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Château Bois Pertuis 2011 Bordeaux.
There is obvious wood here, a toasty, dry character that shows through the fruit. The wine is young
and with the sufficient weight of juicy black currant
fruit, it should integrate well to give a solid, chunky wine
in two years. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Calvet 2010 Réserve (Bordeaux). This is
the blended Bordeaux from Calvet, one of the
oldest wine names in the city. It’s full and ripe, a rounded wine that has good berry fruits as well as a drier, firmer core. At the end, a more smoky character appears.
Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Château Saintongey 2010 Vieilles VIgnes
(Bordeaux). Rich, wood-aged wine that shows
ripe blackberry juice flavors to balance the firm tannins.
It has good depth, structure and weight, a ripe and good
value Bordeaux. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
the vintage, well clothed in fuller fruits. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Château Tour de Bonnet 2010 Bordeaux.
One of the labels from the Bonnet vineyard of
André Lurton, this red follows the approachable, fruity
style of these wines. Red berry fruits and soft tannins
make it already drinkable. Deutsch Family Wine &
Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
Château Fonfroide 2010 Bordeaux. Showing the structure of the vintage, while missing
some of the flesh. The wine has a dry, firm and tannic
core that hides the red fruit flavors. The wine, still on
the austere side, will be ready to drink in a year. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château Laubès 2011 Bordeaux. The aromas are of wood as much as fruit. While the palate also shows plenty of wood aging flavors, there is also
a more floral, red berry fruit character that’s already attractive. The acidity at the end gives intense freshness.
Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château du Pin Franc 2011 Bordeaux.
Light, lean wine, its juicy fruit giving an attractive surface with a soft structure below. The wine
is pleasant, fruity, not for aging. Serge Doré Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
Château Roc Meynard 2011 Bordeaux
Supérieur. Although the wood aging shows
strongly at the moment, there is enough weight of ripe
black currant fruits to integrate as the wine matures.
Then, it will be a firm-though-fruity wine, solid and
chunky. Bourgeois Family Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Château Allégret 2011 Bordeaux Supérieur. Wood-laden, spicy wine with some ripe
black currant fruit and soft tannins. This is a warm, open
wine that is likely to age over the next year. Marsalle/
Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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Château Bois de Rolland 2009 Bordeaux
Supérieur. A ripe and fruity wine, very typical of the vintage. There’s a strong stalky black currant
character, with some dry tannins and wood flavors. The
aftertaste, though, comes right back to fruit and juicy
acidity. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
Price: $35
abv: 14%
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Château Rousset-Caillau 2010 Bordeaux
Supérieur. While there is probably plenty of
ripe fruit somewhere in this wine, it is all too much
dominated by high toast wood flavors which will likely
always give a tough character. It only just hints at a more
generous side. House Of Burgundy. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Château Terre Blanque 2011 Bordeaux.
Going more for stalky tannins, this is a youthful,
but also austere wine. It has perfumed wood along with
hints of black currant tightly encased in a severe outer
shell. House Of Burgundy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Château Allégret 2012 Bordeaux. Very
young, fruity wine. The tannins are already soft
and there is stalky black currant acidity that gives the
wine a bright freshness. It has no wood and will develop
fast. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
bordeaux supérieur
Domaine de Courteillac 2010 Bordeaux
Supérieur. Structured wine with 30% of Cabernet to give shape to the very ripe Merlot. The wine
has both acidity, some firm tannins and a concentrated, dry core. It’s likely to age well over 3–4 years. The
Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
Château de Brondeau 2010 Merlot (Bordeaux Supérieur). That this wine is all Merlot
is the reason both for its jammy richness and its high alcohol. It gives a wine that is out of balance, with pepper,
spice and wood dominating the super-ripe black cherry
fruits. It’s unlikely to age for long. The Country VintnerCraft and Estate. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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other red wines
Château du Bois Chantant 2010 Cuvée
Laurence H. (Bordeaux Supérieur). A firm
and solid wine, tightly packed with tannins, black berry
fruits and a dense structure. Laurence is Laurence Helfrich whose family owns the chateau. The wine could
age for several years, but will be ready to drink in 2014.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Château Lavergne-Dulong 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. Austere and firm, this is
still many years from being ready to drink. For now, its
potential is apparent in the juicy black fruits, dark tannins and solid structure. It has much of the structure of
Château de Piote 2005 Cuvée Prestige
(Bordeaux Supérieur). The fact it comes
from a great vintage has allowed this wine its continued place in the sun. It does taste mature, not old, with
leather, mushroom along with the firm structure and
acidity. But don’t age for any longer. Stephen Augustus
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Château Bel Air 2010 Cuvée Jean Gabriel
(Lussac Saint-Émilion). From a selection of
vines, this is a powerful, complex wine that boasts ripe
tannins, sweet acidity and a juicy black currant charac-
ter. It has structure and density that certainly indicate
aging, so keep the wine for at least five years. Total Wine
& More. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Château Béhèré Courtin 2011 Pauillac.
Right next door to Mouton Rothschild, this
small property is producing wines that are dominated
by the rich, firm Cabernet Sauvignon of Pauillac. The
weight and density are very present, a solid dry core surrounded by delicious black currant fruits. A wine that
will mature relatively fast because of the vintage. Serge
Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $112
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Château de Belcier 2007 Côtes de Castillon. Now mature, this is a softly fruity wine, its
cherry and black currant fruits attractive rounded out
by the gentle tannins. There is a dry core that comes
with touches of wood and acidity. Not for aging. Vintage
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
onto their freshness, while the palate shows a soft side
and modest acidity. Tropical flavors of mango, melon
and pineapple finish with nectarine notes and a touch
of bitter peach pit. Drink as soon as possible. Palm Bay
International. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
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valdeorras
Château du Grand Bos 2005 Graves.
Mushroom aromas indicate a wine that is now
mature. It’s light, textured with hints of green herbs as
well as tannins that are now dry. Not for aging, drink
now. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
Château du Glana 2010 Terre du Lion
(Saint-Julien). This wine, produced by the
team of Château du Glana, is big, bold, solid and very
firmly structured. With weight, richness, black plum
skins and dark tannins, it’s a fine wine for aging, so give
it at least 6–7 years. Serge Doré Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $75
abv: 13.5%
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spanish white wines
Grands Terroirs de France 2010 Pauillac. Grands Terroirs is a brand created by Cahors-based Château le Cèdre. This bow to its Bordeaux
neighbor has produced a Pauillac that is classic, rich,
structured and packed with blackberry fruit. It is still
on the young side, although drinkable, a wine that will
open and round in the next two years. Marsalle/Stoler
Company. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Château Bel-Air 2010 Lussac Saint-Émilion. A solid, structured wine, showing the fine
tannins of the vintage along with ripe berry fruits. It has
weight, acidity, without pushing the alcohol forward, remaining in balance. Age this wine for 3–4 years. Total
Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Château Faizeau 2010 Sélection Vieilles
Vignes (Montagne-Saint-Émilion). Mint
and eucalypt aromas set the scene for a modern, polished wine, packed with wood tannins as well as ripe
black fruits. Currently, the tannins are winning giving a
wine that is dark, structured and dry. So give it at least
five years. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
89
Château le Pape 2011 Pessac-Léognan.
Produced at Château Haut-Bailly, this concentrated red show the attractive fruit of 2011. It’s tannins
are relatively gentle, a fine counter-point to the red berry and currant fruits. It’s a wine for medium-term aging
over the next 4–6 years. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $100
87
Grands Terroirs de France 2010 ListracMédoc. For a Listrac, this is soft and open, a
generous wine that has weight while showing ripe Merlot character. Full black plum skin flavors go with spice,
licorice and touches of wood. It’s ready to drink now.
Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Château du Grand Bos 2007 Graves. A
delicate wine that is completely ready to drink
and needs to be consumed now before it ages further.
The fruit has developed a secondary, animal character, the tannins starting to dominate with their dryness.
Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $60
rías baixas
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Terras Gauda 2012 O Rosal Albariño
(Rías Baixas). For freshness and elegance in
an unoaked wine, look no further than this leesy, smooth
Albariño that shouts of its coastal origin. Sea notes, apple and peach grace the bouquet, while the plump but
zesty palate offers minerally lemon, lime and apple flavors. Gregory White PR. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
90
Terras Gauda 2012 Abadia de San
Campio Albariño (Rías Baixas). This is an
ideal summer white. It’s light but crisp on the bouquet,
with whispy pear, apple and citrus aromas. Freshness
reigns on the palate despite there being pulpy citrus flavors. Another wave of citrus carries the clear finish to a
precise ending. Delicious white wine. Gregory White
PR. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
88
Val do Sosego 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Ripe apple aromas make the nose nice,
even though it’s flattening with age. Likewise on the
palate, which delivers pithy orange and dry melon flavors along with indications that it’s just starting to fade.
Notes of green herbs and scallion come up on the finish.
Drink this mature white immediately. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
87
Galizeus 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Dusty apple, banana and a touch of lemon
comprise the nose. The palate offers good acidity and
roundness, the right foundation for friendly apple, apricot and citrus flavors. The finish is fruity and juicy, with
good vitality. This is nice Albariño for the money. Vicente Gandia PLA. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
87
Serra da Estrela 2011 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Peach and melon aromas are holding
86
Casal Novo 2011 Godello (Valdeorras).
Sweet melon, peach and vanilla aromas come
with a tropical leaning. The mouthfeel trends toward
flat, while modest flavors of apple and melon are supported by soft, melony acidity. While this is good, it’s on
the flat and flabby side. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
85
Viña Somoza 2011 Selección Godello
(Valdeorras). A waxy nose with aromas of
dried pit fruits including apricot is more stalky smelling
than overtly fruity. A grabby mouthfeel shows weight
and waxiness, while stalky, baked flavors of squash,
pumpkin and papaya finish with a touch of oxidation.
Drink now before this loses its vitality. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
82
Viña Somoza 2011 Sobre Lias Godello
(Valdeorras). Oxidized peach and apple aromas are neither here nor there. The mouthfeel on this
Godello is surprisingly soft, while oxidized flavors of citrus and melon lack kick. From start to middle to finish,
this is low on pulse. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
rueda
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Palacio de Bornos 2012 Verdejo (Rueda).
The nose on this regularly solid Verdejo is mild,
with aromas of apple, pear and melon. The palate is
round and a touch fleshy, with modest acidity pushing
pithy peach and pear flavors. The finish tastes of almond
skins and apple. Durango Imports, Inc.. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
86
Cantarranas 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). Yeasty
white-fruit aromas of melon and peach set up a
narrow feeling palate with nectarine and peach flavors.
This is straightforward Verdejo with no frills. The finish is lasting but simple in feel and flavor. Drink this
fresh, quaffable wine right away. Cognac One, LLC.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
86
Montespina 2012 Verdejo (Rueda).
Punchbowl aromas of melon and papaya are a
bit watery. The palate is round and simple in feel, with
modest acidity. Easygoing flavors of melon and peach
finish nice but short. This is basic white wine in every
way. Evaki Inc. —M.S.
Price: $16
abv: 13%
86
Nebla 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). This basic
Verdejo from Rueda offers minerally apple and
citrus aromas in front of a zesty, citric palate. Flavors of
orange and nectarine are nice but entirely regular, while
WineMag.com | 67
buyingguide
the finish is crisp and chalky. Vicente Gandia PLA. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
85
Circe 2012 Verdejo (Rueda). Slightly mealy
smelling citrus aromas are offset by an Animal
Cracker-like vanilla scent. The palate is melony and
plump, with candied lime, Yellow Delicious apple and
powdered sugar flavors. This finishes soft but not flabby.
Evaki Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
84
Esperanza 2012 Verdejo-Viura (Rueda).
Mild, fleshy aromas of dusty white fruits lead to
a clenched, acidic palate with citrus and nectarine flavors. The finish shows little deviation and nothing more
than basic white-fruit flavors of citrus, peach and apple.
Evaki Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
rioja
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Marqués de Cáceres 2012 Viura (Rioja).
Year in and year out, this around where this
wine shakes out. The nose is clean and nice for an under-$10 white, with minerality and fresh white-fruit
aromas. A light, focused palate offers up green melon,
apple, herb and white pepper flavors in front of a crisp
finish. This varietal Viura outperforms its price. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
85
Dinastía Vivanco 2012 Vivanco ViuraMalvasia-Tempranillo Blanco (Rioja). This
three-grape white blend starts with oily aromas and
weight before finding some minerality and white-fruit
notes. The palate has citrusy kick and zing to bolster
green apple and orange flavors. The finish is wide, a
touch clumsy and citrusy in flavor, with tang and lasting
freshness. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
85
El Coto 2012 Viura (Rioja). Yeasty, dusty
aromas of apple and melon lead to a plump, almost flat feeling palate with generic flavors of peach,
apple and melon. The finish has a soft, mealy, slightly
creamy and flat feel along with modest flavors of white
fruits. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
Price: $11
abv: 12%
penedès
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Cellars Avgvstvs Forvm 2010 Xarel-lo
(Penedès). Light peach, apricot and buttercup aromas are better at first but lose steam with airing. This Xarello is lemony, racy and gives off plenty of
kick on the palate, while flavors of citrus and melon are
equally creamy and zesty. This holds firm on the finish,
with brightness offset by a creamy texture. Wine Symphony, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
87
Agustí Torelló Mata 2010 XII Subirat Parent Malvasia (Penedès). This is the first table wine to come from this Cava producer and it has
its ups and downs. The bouquet smells like Sprite with
peach, while the palate is crisp, citric and pointed, with
orange and lime flavors and an oxidized, stalky note to
the finish. This is good but middle of the road as white
wines go. Andrew Bell Selection. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $29
and melon. This finishes oily in feel, with green notes
and scallion flavors. Only 500 cases made. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Parés Baltà 2011 Blanc de Pacs Organic Farming Parellada-Xarel-lo-Macabeu
(Penedès). A heavy gold color announces an oily, floral nose that suggests gardenias. The palate is quite oily
in feel and very plump, with decent acidity and unique
flavors of persimmon, spice and exotic fruits. This is oily
and a bit clunky on the finish. Drink now. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
Parés Baltà 2010 Calcari Xarel-lo
(Penedès). Oxidized, stemmy aromas suggest
a stalky, burnt-out wine. Things are slightly better in the
mouth, where the feel is narrow and the flavors are bitter, stalky and hint at peach pit and citrus peel. This is
hollow on the finish but lively in feel. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —M.S.
Price: $19
abv: 12.5%
other white wines
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Gancedo 2007 Herencia del Capricho
Godello (Bierzo). With a burnished gold tint,
this oak-aged, mature Godello offers dry citrus aromas,
hard spice and barrel notes. The palate is structured and
holding its own, while oaky, oxidized flavors of orange
and peach end with almond, wood resin and mature
citrus flavors. Drink this interesting but unusual white
now. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $62
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Genium Celler 2010 Ximensis Pedro Ximénez (Priorat). This small-lot, dry Pedro Ximénez is maderized and oxidized, but also interesting.
The nose is waxy and resiny, with dusty peach and apricot aromas. In the mouth, it’s complex and mature, however the flavors are bitter and subdued, with corn and
wheaty notes. A bready, honeyed finish brings things
around. Just 90 cases made. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Oliver Conti 2011 Treyu (Empordà). The
nose on this blend of Gewurztraminer and Macabeo defines neutral; it’s clean but shows little more
than a whiff of apple. The palate is fresh and quick moving, with mild peach, pear, apple and melon flavors that
culminate in a solid finish that’s not very exciting but
doesn’t stray. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $16
abv: 12.5%
87
Oliver Conti 2009 White (Empordà). This
mature blend of Gewurztraminer, Sauvignon
Blanc and Macabeo is oily, plump and fragrant, but also
blocky, chunky and on its last legs of freshness. Flowery
peach, melon and papaya flavors end short, with an oily
mouthfeel. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Zerran 2011 Garnatxa Blanca (Montsant). This Montsant white is oily and oaky on
the nose. The palate on this Garnacha Blanca is plump
feeling, with decent acidity and full flavors of papaya
Las Colinas Del Ebro 2012 Garnacha
Blanca (Terra Alta). This white Garnacha
starts with a salinic nose that contains aromas of pear,
papaya, salami and ham. It’s a little flabby on the palate,
with pithy, oily flavors of papaya, melon, lychee and salt.
There’s mild bitterness to the finish, but not enough to
sink the wine. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Mas Igneus 2010 Barranc dels Closos
Blanc (Priorat). The bouquet on this white
blend almost goes in reverse, meaning it’s so neutral
that it seems to go backwards. In the mouth, the wine
is fleshy and soft, with flabby flavors of banana, papaya
and bland citrus. A sugary tasting finish with pear and
banana is o.k. but cloying. Opici Wines. —M.S.
Price: $28
abv: 13.5%
84
Gancedo 2011 Capricho Val de Paxariñas Godello (Bierzo). The nose on this clearcolored Godello is fresh, spunky and citrusy. The palate
is spritzy in feel and juicy, but also kind of cloying and
clumsy. Flavors of sweet apple, citrus, lychee and mango finish tropical and candied, with weight and flatness.
The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
84
Viñas del Vero 2010 La Miranda de Secastilla Garnacha Blanca (Somontano).
The nose on this Grenache Blanc is oily smelling and
blowsy. In the mouth, it’s fairly tangy and angular, with
fresh acids and briny, pickled flavors of lime and orange.
Cornichon-like flavors and wiry acidity control the finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
cava
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Biutiful NV Brut Nature (Cava). For Brut
Nature, this has body and weight to it. The nose
delivers dry apple and pear aromas, while the palate is
fairly full and round for the style, with apple and lime
flavors. A finish with roundness and density confirms
this Cava’s good quality. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 11.5%
84
Finca Torremilanos 2010 Peñalba López
Brut Nature (Cava). The nose on this Cava
from Ribera del Duero is chunky and yeasty. In the
mouth, the wine foams up while showing flavors of orange, lemon and minerals. It’s a touch sour on the finish, but overall it smells and tastes good, with little to no
complexity. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
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Tarantas 2011 Brut (Cava). This opens
with vanilla and sweet, powdery aromas. In the
mouth, it’s bubbly and foamy, with a mix of pickled citrus and dry apple flavors. The finish is crisp and dry like
a soda cracker. Natural Merchants LLC. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
82
Berberana NV Gran Tradición Brut
(Cava). Iodine and briny citrus aromas are
hardly the red carpet entry you might hope for. In the
mouth, this is cushioned, with briny flavors of apple and
nectarine that finish bitter. This will probably go down
best with a splash of orange or peach juice. On it’s own
it struggles. MHW, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
80
Paul Cheneau NV Demi Sec (Cava). With
dusty, candied aromas, the bouquet on this
semisweet Cava is scattered all over the map. In the
mouth, it’s inoffensive, however the wine’s candied,
melony flavors are cloying and overtly sugary. This is
too clumsy and candied to be taken seriously. Pasternak
Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
rosés
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Dinastía Vivanco 2011 Vivanco Tempranillo-Garnacha Rosé (Rioja). With its dayglo pink color, this smells stalky and lacks the aromatic
freshness one seeks in rosé. The mouthfeel is reasonably lively and grabby, with briny, pickled citrus flavors
in front of a briny tasting finish. Opici Wines. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
83
Txomín Etxaníz 2011 Getaria Rosé (Getariako Txakolina). With almost no color, this
spritzy rosado is prickly and feline on the nose, like Sauvignon Blanc or Verdejo. The palate is lightly bubbly,
with bounce and tart tangerine and herbal flavors. Txomin Etxaníz has never made a commercial rosé prior to
this. This makes you wonder why they did. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $25
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Finca Albret 2011 Rosado Garnacha (Navarra). This barrel-fermented rosé is flat and
smells more like apple juice than wine. Despite showing some tang, this is dull in the mouth, with bland orange and nectarine flavors. On the finish, it’s washed out
and has an iodine-like aftertaste. Oak Barrel Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
81
Dominio de Eguren 2011 Protocolo Rosé
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This is no
longer in its prime. It tastes weird, mealy and slightly exotic, while the palate feels rubbery. Nectarine and plum
notes are detectable on a strained finish. Jorge Ordoñez
Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
80
Bodegas Corellanas 2011 Viña Rubican
Rosado (Navarra). This has already past its
sell-by date. The color is tan and maderized, while the
nose is soft and mushy, with raisiny aromas. Like the
nose, this is flabby and past its prime in the mouth, with
a bland, bitter finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
spanish red wines
toro
95
Teso La Monja 2010 Alabaster (Toro). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $220
93
Teso La Monja 2010 Victorino (Toro). This
inky, jammy smelling Toro is overflowing with
blackberry and blueberry aromas. In the mouth, grabby
tannins rise up with power, creating a rugged mouthfeel. Flavors of blackberry, charred oak, burnt meat and
blackened spices finish dark, toasty, peppery and slightly bitter. Talk about a serious Toro with massive flavors
and pounding tannins; drink from 2014 through 2019.
Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $63
92
Numanthia-Termes, S.L. 2010 Termes
(Toro). This is a ripe, dark but balanced Toro
with pastry, prune, blackberry and vanilla aromas. The
palate is fiercely tannic on the surface but not overly
hard at the foundation. Flavors of burnt toast, black
berry, spice, licorice and chocolate finish warm, toasty
and dark, with echoes of ripeness and hard tannins.
Drink now through 2018. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S.
Price: $28
abv: 15%
90
Cyan 2005 La Calera (Toro). This has a lot
of good things going in its favor, for example
depth, power and richness. It’s also raisiny and oaky,
with stewy core flavors of baked berry, cassis, roasted
meat and vanilla. The finish is chewy and thick, with vanilla and pastry flavors along with grating tannins. By no
means is this wine perfect, but it offers a lot of what’s
good about Toro; drink now. Matarromera USA, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $34
90
Teso La Monja 2010 Romanico (Toro).
Teso la Monja picked a good vintage to introduce this entry-level Toro. Romanico is big and candied on the nose, with floral berry aromas, milk chocolate and a touch of raisin. On the palate, spunky berry
fruit flavors blend with juniper notes, while the finish
delivers herbal leftovers, a pinch more juniper and commendable length and smoothness. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
Price: $17
abv: 14.5%
89
Elias Mora 2010 Toro. For Toro, this is
earthy and slightly herbal as opposed to ripe
and jammy. Aromas of mulch, leather and herbal berry
lead into a firm, rocky palate with rooty flavors of burnt
leaves, black fruits and oregano. A tight, compact finish
with moderate flavors is a bit closed and hard. Grapes
of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
ribera del duero
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Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Clave de
Tábula (Ribera del Duero). This is one dark,
intense Ribera del Duero with loads of lush black-fruit
aromas matched against minerality and fine French-oak
scents. It is tight as a drum on the palate, with wiry acid-
ity and rocky tannins. Flavors of oak-driven coconut and
cream sit on top of blackberry and cola, while the finish
ends abruptly, with hardness. Drink through 2024; 150
cases made. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $120
92
Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Tábula
(Ribera del Duero). This is every bit as good
as the winery’s Clave de Tábula, which costs twice as
much. An aromatic opening of fig, prune and black
berry comes with graphite, cola and attractive oak notes.
This is intense and shows powerful acidity in support of
blackberry, toast and dark, spicy flavors. A medium-long
finish with toast and licorice is proper and not overdone.
Drink from 2014–2022. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
89
Bodegas y Viñedos Tábula 2009 Damana
Crianza (Ribera del Duero). This big, dark,
rubbery smelling Ribera wine is rugged and pushy, with
mild volatility on the nose along with a whiff of spent
coffee grinds. A clampy, bullish palate with rock-hard
tannins sets up rubbery black-fruit flavors in front of a
rough and tumble finish. Overall this is very good but
hard and tannic. Hold for a year then drink through
2020. Las Arribes LLC. —M.S.
Price: $35
abv: 14%
89
Legaris 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Exotic blueberry and fir tree aromas set up
a jammy palate with soft tannins and flavors of black
berry, dark cherry, toast and a hint of burnt beef. Widespread tannins cause the finish to feel mellow and not
that pointed. This is a very good Spanish wine that’s not
too complex. Drink through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
88
Real Sitio de Ventosilla 2004 RSV 1601 El
Duque de Lerma (Ribera del Duero). With
damp earth and crusty leather aromas, this is a heavy
wine with baked fruit, a syrupy mouthfeel and flavors
of mocha, carob, leafy berry and earth. On the finish,
it’s full bodied and soft, with ripe black-fruit flavors that
register as thick and a touch raisiny. Drink now. Hidalgo
Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
87
Portia 2009 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).
Chunky, ripe black-fruit aromas come with violet accents. The mouthfeel is good but gritty, with hard
tannins and a lot of oak that creates a buttery topping to
plum, cassis and molasses flavors. This ripe wine finishes stable but quick, with some chocolate flavor but not
much else. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
86
Mesoneros de Castilla 2008 Roble (Ribera del Duero). For a fresh, lighter-bodied
style of Ribera del Duero, this is pretty good. The nose
is herbal and suggests tomato, thyme and dry cherry.
The mouth is tight and drawing, with dry raspberry,
herb and vanilla flavors that end mildly. Drink this fresh,
modest wine now. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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buyingguide
80
Convento San Francisco 2008 Ribera
del Duero. This wine is not impressive in any
way. It’s tannic, abrasive and tastes stalky and weedy.
The finish is rough and green, like rocks in the mouth.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
rioja
90
Marqués de Vitoria 2004 Gran Reserva
(Rioja). This is a very nice aged Rioja with
baked, earthy aromas of spice along with dried raspberry and plum. The mouthfeel is clean and solid in a
normal, easy way, while flavors of plum and berry fruits
carry notes of coconut and vanilla. A mild, warm, lightly
baked finish cements this wine’s status. Drink now. Vinaio Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $33
89
El Coto 2004 Coto de Imaz Gran Reserva
(Rioja). Aromas of leather, dried cherry, vanilla
and leafy earthiness get this gran reserva moving. In the
mouth, it’s a touch choppy and wiry, with leafy, roasted
flavors of savory plum and spice. This is shy on the finish, with a hint of spice and chocolate. Drink now. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
Price: $45
abv: 13.5%
88
Finca Valpiedra 2009 Cantos de Valpiedra (Rioja). This focused, crisp Tempranillo
from a nice, warm vintage offers a mix of fresh plum,
raspberry, vanilla and spice on the bouquet. It’s honest
and correct in the mouth, with plum, cherry, dry spice
and light oak flavors. A clean, mellow finish is an appropriate ending for this midtier Rioja. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
87
Baron De Ley 2010 Varietales Maturana
(Rioja). Don’t be shocked by this wine’s saucy,
herbal nose, because that’s what the grape variety gives.
After you get used to the wine’s herbal leanings, look for
an oaky, herbal palate with vanilla and peppery flavors
in front of a strong, scratchy finish. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
87
Bodegas Zugober 2010 Belezos (Rioja).
The first whiff of this Rioja is full of oaky char,
shoe polish, raw leather and can’t-miss wood resin. With
airing the nose cedes chocolate and berry scents. This is
plump, chewy and a touch resiny feeling on the palate,
with baked berry, savory notes, grilled meat flavors and
saltiness. A roasted, rubbery finish is apropos. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 13%
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Luis Alegre 2010 Koden (Rioja). Clean,
fully loaded blackberry and dark plum aromas
are smooth and subtle. In the mouth, this Tempranillo
is chunky and solidly built, with earthy, roasted flavors
of berry and plum. Savory, meaty flavors define the finish on this dark-leaning, affordable Rioja. Vinos Libres.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Baron De Ley 2010 Varietales (Rioja).
This is a warm, weighty Tempranillo with earthy,
leathery, baked berry aromas. The palate is plump but
solid and structured, with ripe, mildly salty tasting berry
flavors that finish mossy and mature, with an abundance
of oak-based vanilla and earth notes. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
88
Bodegas Valdemar 2008 Inspiración Maturana (Rioja). With dry, spicy, leafy aromas,
this is pure, varietal Maturana, a grape only a handful of
Rioja wineries are using. This version is lively, big and
spirited, with reedy, leafy, black-fruit flavors and a long,
spicy, full-bodied finish. Colección Internacional del
Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
88
Bodegas Valdemar 2005 Inspiración Maturana (Rioja). This unusual varietal wine hits
with a giant wall of herbal aromas that suggest tomato leaf, oregano and basil. The palate is firm and structured in feel, with smacking tannins and flavors of dark
berry fruits, green herbs and coffee. A peppery tasting
finish with residual green flavors and mocha works for
this decidedly herbal-leaning but high-quality wine.
Drink now. Colección Internacional del Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
Casa Primicia 2005 Confradia (Rioja).
This is a full-force wine with a scratchy bouquet
and aromas of herbal fruit, vanilla and burnt stems. It’s
jumpy in the mouth, and not that smooth, with aggressive tannins and baked flavors of raisin, herbs and burnt
fruit. On the finish, there’s oaky caramel and chocolate
along with heat and stewy notes. Vin Divino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $73
Casado Morales 2010 Dimidium Nobleza
(Rioja). This Tempranillo is electric purple in
color, with aromas of rubber, horse hide and grapy berry. It’s round and jammy feeling, with tannic grip and
jammy flavors of baked, earthy berry fruits, followed by
a savory, meaty, roasted tasting finish. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
87
Castillo Labastida 2009 Crianza (Rioja).
This is a well-made Rioja with generic plum and
berry aromas that come forth in fruity, bouncy fashion.
The palate is medium bodied, with standard berry fruit
flavors and very little spice or complexity. A finish with
buttery oak and vanilla qualifies as oaky for the level of
fruit this wine is bringing. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
87
Loriñon 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Heavy berry, leather, mint and oak aromas show a bit of
stalkiness in front of a regular feeling palate with mossy,
earthy berry flavors. A chunky, savory tasting finish with
fresh acidity and length keeps things moving in a positive direction. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
87
Marques de Tomares 2001 Gran Reserva
(Rioja). With savory, leafy, balsamic aromas,
this is good but sedentary on the nose. In the mouth,
it’s full but a little flat, with a mild pulse and meaty, bal-
samic flavors of earthy berry and prune. A short, earthy
finish closes it out. Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
87
Marqués de Vitoria 2005 Reserva (Rioja). For the most part, this Rioja is good, not
great. The nose deals tomato leaf, herbal notes, floral
berry and leather, while the palate is fresh and racy, with
strong acidity. Flavors of earthy, lightly herbal raspberry
and plum end in a modest, acidic, scratchy finish. Vinaio
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
87
Viña Bujanda 2009 Crianza (Rioja). This
is a bit old fashioned on the nose, where vanilla,
dried fruit and dill aromas hold court. A dry, traditional
type of palate delivers spiced plum, red cherry and mild
herbal flavors in front of a light-bodied, slightly oaky
tasting finish. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Marqués de Elciego 2009 Selección (Rioja). The nose on this round, medium-bodied
wine is defined by sweet oak and milk chocolate. In the
mouth, it’s chunky and ripe, with raw tannins. Flavors of
sweet, pushy berry fruits and heavy oak lead to a toasty
finish with carob and wood flavors. This is good but oakdominated. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $24
86
Valsacro 2010 Rioja. After this Rioja opens
with earthy, almost food-like aromas of ground
beef, rubber and leather, oak takes over and in march
a bacony scent and plenty of char. This is plump and
chunky in feel, with earthy, rubbery, savory flavors of
charred black fruits and cured meats. It becomes more
and more oaky and drawing on the finish. Kysela Père
et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
85
Casa Primicia 2008 T Crianza (Rioja).
With can’t-miss aromas of vanilla, dill and leathery cherry, this starts out in textbook form for a Rioja crianza. The palate is just round enough, with initial
dark-berry flavors followed by numerous waves of bold
oak that finish in a pool of dill, mint and spice flavors.
Vin Divino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
85
Marqués de Legarda 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Raspberry, chocolate and plum aromas
form a basic bouquet. This shows tight grip along with
flavors of baked berry fruits, leather and earth. The finish tastes a bit rubbery, and then heat and dry, peppery
notes take over. United Cellars, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
85
Viña Cerrada 2009 Crianza (Rioja). The
overriding character of this basic Rioja is raisiny,
ripe berry fruit; it’s on the nose, palate and finish. Alongside these notes are mild tannins, some rubbery weight
and chunky friendliness. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
84
Finca Nueva 2008 Crianza (Rioja). Light
aromas of red plum and raspberry lead to a wiry,
snappy feeling palate with a mix of raspberry, plum and
cocoa powder flavors. This is a lean, juicy Tempranillo
with modest character and a clean finish. Jorge Ordoñez
Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
84
Taron 2008 4M (Rioja). Earthy baked cherry aromas come across candied and minty. The
palate is full-force in terms of acidity, with punchy flavors of strawberry and plum. This finishes light, with
strong acidity pushing snappy tartness to the fore. Amphora Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
83
Berberana 2008 Viña Alarde Crianza
(Rioja). Raw aromas of rhubarb and scratchy
raspberry offer little to latch onto. The palate feels
clipped and angular, while the flavors are a touch stalky
and generic as far as red fruit goes. This finishes tangy
and scouring. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
83
Don Jacobo 2004 Reserva (Rioja). This
wine is about as raisiny as it gets while still holding onto a sense of balance. Aromas of stewed berry
fruits, prune and carob lead to a grabby, lemony tasting
palate with raisin, vanilla and sweet tobacco on the finish. RM Distributors Inc. —M.S.
Price: $23
abv: 13%
calatayud
89
Bodegas Ateca 2011 Honoro Vera Garnacha (Calatayud). This wine is fresh as can be,
with loads of friendly black-fruit aromas upfront. The
palate is juicy and bright, not the least bit hard or tannic,
with huge flavors of berry fruits, baking spices, chocolate and even some bacon. This delivers a lot for the
price. Gil Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
89
Tres Ojos 2011 Garnacha (Calatayud).
With a hint of rubber and asphalt, the bouquet
on this value wine is generous and topped with blackberry and dark plum aromas. The palate is grabby, with
clampy tannins and black-fruit flavors mixed with chocolate and spice. The earthy, lightly herbal finish with
rubbery nuances is nice. Kysela Père et Fils. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
88
Figaro 2011 Tinto (Calatayud). This is dark
as night, with boysenberry, blackberry, animal
fur and smooth oak aromas. For $10, it’s bringing all
sorts of power and quality, like oak-influenced flavors of
vanilla, chocolate, blackberry and cassis. On the finish,
this is full and smacks down with tannic grab. Kysela
Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
88
Marqués de Montañana 2011 Selección
Especial Garnacha (Calatayud). This Garnacha is perfectly good in every way, shape and form.
The nose is loaded with bright berry aromas and a hint
of mint. The palate feels lively and right, while flavors of
raspberry, blackberry and leather lead to a deep, long,
slightly hot finish. Evaki Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
83
Garnacha de Fuego 2011 Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Prune and raisin aromas
pour off the bouquet, providing more than a clue that
this wine is on the overripe side. That’s confirmed in the
mouth, where things feel tannic and over the top; flavors of raisin, sugar beet and chocolate finish with heat
and hardness. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $8
priorat
91
Domini de la Cartoixa 2007 Clos Galena
(Priorat). By and large, this is a good Priorat to
drink or hold, because it should still improve. Both the
bouquet and palate are oaky and fiery, with cherry, raspberry and vanilla flavors. On the finish, things turn buttery before settling on rooty and staunch. The more air
this gets, the more it comes around. Drink now through
2018. Palmateer Consulting LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
88
Casa Rojo 2009 Fauno Organic Grapes
Garnatxa Negra (Priorat). For full review
see page 13.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
89
Zerran 2010 Montsant. Tarry blackberry and
plum aromas are good and lusty. This is a round,
medium-bodied blend of Garnacha, Carignan and Syrah that’s ripe but not overpowering. Flavors of berry and
plum are red in nature and finish with spicy notes and a
good feel. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
88
Bula 2010 Montsant. Scratchy plum and
raspberry aromas are fresh and forward, while
the mouthfeel follows suit; it’s juicy, with narrowing
acidity and brightness. Flavors of raspberry, plum and
cherry end zesty and long, with crisp acidity maintaining
focus. This is a blend of Carignan (Mazuelo), Garnacha
and Syrah. Aviva Vino. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
88
Can Blau 2010 Blau (Montsant). This
straightforward, perfectly clean blend of Carignan, Syrah and Garnacha would function as a great everyday house red. It’s lively and a little racy and grating
on the palate, with standard, fresh berry flavors touched
up by a sprinkle of chocolaty oak. A modest finish keeps
the vibe positive. Gil Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
88
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valencia
Pinord 2007 +7 (Priorat). The bouquet on
this Priorat is raisiny, with tobacco and schisty
aromas. The palate is one part jumpy and another part
stewy and clumsy, with baked berry flavors that come
with a tangy citric edge. The finish is long, with tobacco,
stewed fruit and hard tannins. Drink now through 2015.
Republic National Distributing Co. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
Domini de la Cartoixa 2007 Galena (Priorat). Leather and herbal berry fruit aromas
come with a horsey, stalky side. The palate is solid but
hard, with herbal, stemmy flavors of licorice, baked berry and chocolate. The finish is chocolaty and slightly bitter, with a leftover green note. Palmateer Consulting
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
montsant
91
Jaspi 2010 Negre (Montsant). Dusty spice
and red-berry aromas are a fine opening to this
blend of Garnacha, Carignan, Cab Sauvignon and Syrah. It’s fairly full bodied but not heavy, with fine balance and bright flavors of cherry and berry that come in
layered waves. A toasty, dry finish with spice and good
acidity closes out this easy-to-like Spanish red. Drink
through 2017. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
90
Can Blau 2010 Montsant. Fresh berry and
plum aromas come with earth and herbal accents, which only boost the bouquet’s complexity. The
palate on this blend of Carignan, Garnacha and Syrah is
structured and tight, with earthy, lightly toasted flavors
of black cherry and plum. Spice, cocoa and oaky dryness define the finish. Drink through 2016. Gil Family
Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
R.O.Q. Corp 2009 R-OH Carignan-
Grenache (Montsant). Initially, this smells
damp and earthy, although with airing a mix of leather, berry fruits and vanilla emerge. The palate is bumpy
and borderline sticky feeling, with baked, earthy flavors
of black fruits and herbal tones. The finish is short and
tastes a little raisiny. Vinos Libres. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
89
Bodegas Rafael Cambra 2010 Soplo Garnacha (Valencia). This is a clean, fresh style
of Garnacha with floral black cherry aromas offset by a
minty note. The palate has a zingy feel and crisp, fresh
plum, raspberry and dry herb flavors. As a whole it’s focused and uncomplicated; this is very good Garnacha
from one of the Valencia region’s better producers.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
87
Vicente Gandia 2010 El Miracle by Mariscal Old Vine Garnacha (Valencia). For
full review see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
85
Angosto 2010 Tinto (Valencia). This Valencia blend opens with aromas of latex, Band-Aid
and jammy red-berry fruits. It’s wide in the mouth, with
a mix of buttery oak, herbal berry and minty plum flavors. This is good but shows a distinct green side on the
palate and finish. Vino Cava. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
jumilla
88
Bodegas Carchelo 2010 Sierva (Jumilla).
With full-force aromas of leather, blackberry
and licorice, this Levante blend is an aggressive wine
with a tight, acidic body and racy flavors of cherry and
tart plum. It’s forward and pushy, with rawness, plenty
WineMag.com | 71
buyingguide
of acidity on the finish, and flavors that take on a dark
character. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
85
Pedro Luis Martínez 2010 Hilanda Monastrell (Jumilla). Raw, rooty, scratchy aromas
that suggest clove and licorice set up a tight, drawing,
tannic palate with herbal, leathery, dark flavors of wild
berry and bitter chocolate. Mint, a strong clove characteristic and dark fruit flavors control the finish. Frontier
Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
82
Caracol Serrano 2010 Jumilla. This wine’s
light, rusty color and herbal, dilute nose tell you
most of what you need to know about this weakly constituted Monastrell-led blend. Tea, leafy fruit flavors,
pepper and rooty flavors are what it’s about. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
other red wines
92
Marques de Griñon 2007 Emeritus (Dominio de Valdepusa). This is a ripe, rich
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Syrah
that opens with blackberry, blueberry and earthy leather aromas. It’s full bodied, lifted by nice acids and layered, with toast, meaty blackberry, licorice and roasted
flavors. A chewy, smooth, deep finish functions as the
final chapter. Drink through 2018. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
91
Clunia 2010 El Rincón de Clunia Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y
León). Earthy dark-berry and leathery aromas are nice
and convincing. The palate on this single-vineyard Tempranillo is big but balanced, with layering and firm tannins. Flavors of black fruits, creamy oak and earth finish
with grabby tannins and sincerity. Drink this full-bodied
wine now through 2018. Oak Barrel Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
90
Marques de Griñon 2007 Single Vineyard
Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Dominio de Valdepusa). Like many Griñon wines, this
is dense and earthy on the nose, with ripe berry and
marzipan aromas. A round, layered, full-bodied palate
shows hard, unresolved tannins and ripe, earthy flavors
of blackberry, spice, herbs and chocolate. A firm, textured finish with integrated flavors is bullish but classy.
Drink through 2018. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
inviting, solid bouquet. In the mouth, this is healthy,
full-bodied and showing plenty of kick. Flavors of berry
fruits, plum and roasted notes end with jammy berry
flavors and a good texture. Drink now–2015. Oak Barrel
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
88
85
87
84
Cellar Bàrbara Forés 2006 Coma d’En
Pou (Terra Alta). Aromas of vanilla, stewed
red berry, leather, cheese and heat indicate a ripe wine
entering it’s peak years. This is tannic and grating in the
mouth, with syrupy flavors of prune and chocolate. The
finish carries a baked character along with flavors of raisin and liqueur. Drink now. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
Bodegas Artazu 2011 Artazuri Garnacha (Navarra). This is straightforward, nofrills Garnacha with plum and berry aromas followed
by a tight, slightly tannic palate that houses raspberry
and plum flavors. The finish is smooth for the most part,
with some heat and herbal flavors. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 14%
87
Bodegas Navarro López 2010 Premium
1904 Tempranillo-Cabernet Sauvignon
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). With solid berry and
plum aromas, the bouquet is friendly and nice. This is
fresh and fruity in style, with hints of leather and chocolate accenting core berry and plum flavors. An earthy,
warm finish with leathery notes is the final act. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
87
Marques de Griñon 2007 El Rincón
Syrah-Grenache (Vinos de Madrid). With
a dark purple hue and rubbery, horsy aromas of black
fruit, leather, dried beef and coffee, this full-bodied
blend of 95% Syrah and 5% Garnacha delivers plump,
chewy flavors of dark plum and ripe blackberry. There’s
also a lot of animal, earth and leather to the rustic finish.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
87
V&N Cellars 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Cariñena). Leathery, stalky berry aromas are
a bit rustic, and so is the feel. But the flavors on this
Cabernet from Cariñena are satisfying and forward,
suggesting stewed plum, baked berry and sun-drenched
warmth. This is almost cooked but it pulls back. At six
years of age it is what it is; drink now. Marsalle/Stoler
Company. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
90
86
89
86
Viñas del Cenit 2008 Cenit Old Vines
Tempranillo (Tierra del Viños de Zamora). Given the difficulties of this cool vintage, this is an
excellent wine with dark berry, herb, spice and vanilla
aromas. It’s firm on the palate like most 2008s, with flavors of blackberry, chocolate and oak spice leading to
an earthy tasting finish. Drink now–2016. Aviva Vino.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $59
Clunia 2010 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Boysenberry and
blueberry aromas mixed with oak scents amount to an
are modest and lack spine. In the mouth, this is standard, with oak-based flavors of toast, chocolate and vanilla on top of generic berry. The finish is thick and oaky,
with a touch of raisiny flavor. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Príncipe de Viana 2007 1423 Reserva
(Navarra). Jammy, mildly green aromas of
tobacco, cherry and blueberry shed clarity with airing. This blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet and Merlot
is high in acid, a touch abrasive and hollow in the midpalate, with green-leaning, minty flavors of blackberry
and plum. This finishes acidic, with some scour. Sybarite Global LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Vivencias 2009 V Tempranillo (Vino de
Calidad de Valtiendas). Boysenberry aromas
Arrayán 2007 Premium (Mentrida). Stalky,
mildly green aromas of grass, blueberry and raisin are challenging but not offputting. This is tight and
fairly acidic for a La Mancha blend of Syrah, Merlot,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Flavors of herbal
berry and stewed fruits end with a baked character and
heat. Vino Cava. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
Finca Antigua 2010 Garnacha (La Mancha). Grassy berry and light, leafy aromas define the bouquet. The mouth is a little tangy but mostly
jammy, while blueberry, lemony oak and dilution define
the flavor profile. A short, choppy, jammy finish comes
across slightly washed out. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 13.5%
84
Sícoris 2009 Red (Costers del Segre).
Simple strawberry aromas come with stalky side
notes. In the mouth, this is tannic while also coming
across syrupy. Baked flavors of molasses, stewed plum
and nutmeg end in a syrupy, cooked finish. Steve Miles
Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
83
Toscar 2010 Monastrell (Alicante). Medicinal cherry and plum aromas are smothered in
milk chocolate scents that turn more animal and leathery with airing. The palate is chunky but dull in feel,
with generic red-berry flavors covered with candied
oak and herbal notes. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
82
Bodegas Tempore 2010 Esenzia Old
Vine Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra del
Bajo Aragón). Clunky aromas of raisin and compost
lack vitality and suggest overripeness. The mouthfeel is
dense and tannic, while flavors of prune and overripe
blueberry dominate. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
81
Bodegas 1898 2009 Ramón Roqueta
Garnacha (Catalunya). This reedy, strained
Garnacha features cheesy aromas, stalky fruit and
chemical notes. The palate is hard in feel, with a weedy,
burnt aftertaste. First Tier Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
80
Vivencias 2008 V Tempranillo (Vino de
Calidad de Valtiendas). This is not fresh
or fruity; in fact, the nose is nutty and muddied, with a
rough, angular mouthfeel and flavors of peanut, vanilla
and leathery raspberry. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
spirits
all-american: bourbon and rye
T
hese all-American Bourbons and ryes
are just the ticket for Fourth of July parties, and mixing into icy juleps, bucks and
Sazeracs all summer long. Be sure to see this
month’s feature on frozen cocktails (page 55) if
you need a little inspiration!
Although there’s plenty to celebrate in the
Bourbon and rye categories, a question arose
mid-tasting for the reviews below: Why are so
many whiskeys so darn hot?
There are surely valid reasons for leaving
some whiskeys at high proofs—preserving flavor, chiefly—but when abvs start heading north
of 45% (90 proof), many of these spirits lose
their drinkability. And when they hit 100 proof
or higher (one whiskey in this tasting clocked in
at a palate-numbing 132 proof) the arguments
for cask strength and above seem flimsy. While
BOURBON
97
Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage
2002 Edition (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery,
Bardstown, KY). Extremely flavorful and rich, with a
lush caramel scent and notes of butterscotch, hazelnut,
toffee and fig. Savor with an ice cube or two. The 2002
edition represents the 17th year of production for this
bottling. Best Buy.
abv: 43.3%
Price: $26
96
Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage
2003 Edition (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY). Evan Williams has released a
vintage Bourbon every year since 1986, and they tend
to be excellent. The 2003 edition upholds that reputation, layering butterscotch, sturdy oak and rich maple,
and finishing mellow and smooth. Recommended for
sipping straight up, or with ice. Best Buy.
abv: 43.3%
Price: $26
96
Hillrock Solera Aged Bourbon Whiskey
(USA; Hillrock Estate Distillery, Hudson
Valley, NY). From master distiller Dave Pickerell, this
estate-grown, field-to-flask offering makes good use of
oloroso Sherry barrels. Look for peach and vanilla aromas, bold raisin and brown sugar flavors and a gentle
exit that just hints at Sherry. At nearly 93 proof, the
alcohol makes its presence known, so add some water or vermouth if you must. Attractive and substantial
squared bottle.
abv: 46.3%
Price: $80
96
Parker’s Heritage Collection—Cognac
Finished Edition (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY). This limited edition (6,000
this is the same proof that absinthe is often bottled at, those producers suggest diluting absinthe at a ratio of 3 parts water (or more) to 1
part absinthe, bringing it down to the neighborhood of 40 proof.
Yet in the wake of the Maker’s Mark decision
earlier this year to lower its proof from 90 proof
to 84 proof—a decision that consumers loudly
booed, leading Maker’s Mark to swiftly backtrack—it seems unlikely that we’ll be seeing
many whiskeys brought down to 80 proof.
A splash of branchwater won’t do the trick
with a super high-octane whiskey—yet too
much water does a disservice too. Where’s the
middle ground?
When the whiskey gets too hot, at least one
refuge remains: cocktails. Time to go find those
frosty silver julep cups.
—K ara Newman
bottles) Bourbon finished in Cognac barrels has a rich
amber color with orange highlights, and enticing aromas of raisin and chocolate. This full-bodied wow of a
whiskey coats the palate with big, rich flavors, leaving a
lingering finish of toffee, orange peel and espresso. It’s
100 proof, so keep the branchwater on hand.
abv: 50%
Price: $80
95
Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey (USA;
The Bulleit Distilling Co, Lawrenceburg,
KY). Golden and bright, this straight Bourbon whiskey
is one of the most versatile around. Though it starts with
a sweet flavor profile with hints of vanilla and cookie
dough, it finishes supple and dry, with notes of leather,
black tea and cinnamon. Bracing alcohol levels. Best
Buy.
abv: 45%
Price: $28
94
Angel’s Envy Cask Strength (USA; Louisville Distilling Company, Louisville, KY).
Some might prefer the more sippable regular-strength
version, but for those seeking higher proof, this lively
expression is surely a contender in the growing caskstrength category. The nose is rich with touches of
peach and toffee, while the palate finds velvety caramel
and dark-fruit notes attributable to a turn in Port barrels. 600 bottles released.
abv: 61.85%
Price: $149
94
Four Roses Yellow Label (USA; Four
Roses Distillery, Lawrenceburg, KY).
Consider this blended Bourbon for dessert pairings
or a fruit-spiked Old Fashioned. Look for caramel and
dried-cherry aromas and a flavor akin to dark chocolate-covered cherries. The long, mouthwatering finish
is dark and decadent, evoking chocolate, espresso, Port,
leather, nutmeg and clove. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $20
94
Old Forester Signature (USA; BrownForman, Louisville, KY). This luxurious
Bourbon shows layered and dense flavors that run to
the darker and drier side: cocoa, espresso, clove and allspice, all wrapped in beautiful caramel and butterscotch
aromatics. At 100 proof, the alcohol deservedly feels
intense, so best to temper this with a bit of branchwater
or ice. Best Buy.
abv: 50%
Price: $22
93
Chestnut Farms Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Clear Spring Distilling Co, Louisville, KY). Since Louisville is horse
country as well as Bourbon country, the galloping horse
etched on the bottle feels spot on. Silky and rich, this
dark amber Bourbon offers espresso, dried apricot and
cigar tobacco, with a baking spice finish. Brisk alcohol.
abv: 45% Price: $48
93
Four Roses Single Barrel (USA; Four
Roses Distillery, Lawrenceburg, KY).
Pour this single-barrel Bourbon some time in advance
to allow it to open up and reveal crème caramel aromatics while you eye the rich topaz color in the glass. Sweet
and smooth, this whiskey finishes with dry espresso,
dark chocolate and black-tea notes. Mix into classic
cocktails.
abv: 50%
Price: $40
93
Henry DuYore’s Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Ransom Spirits, Sheridan,
OR). This Bourbon boasts concentrated caramel aroma. Flavors run to caramel and honey, touched with
charred oak and allspice notes. It’s plush and rounded
in feel. The soft-wax cap is frustratingly hard to open,
but luckily, it’s worth the struggle.
abv: 45.6%
Price: $40
93
Larceny Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA; Heaven Hill Distillery,
Bardstown, KY). This small-batch Bourbon uses
wheat in place of rye to create a soft, rounded character.
The mild crème brulee aroma leads into sasparilla and
creamy caramel flavors. At 92 proof, it’s a wonder that
the alcohol feels so moderate, but it makes its presence
known in the cinnamon-firework finish. Attractive bottle design with clever keyhole label. Best Buy.
abv: 46%
Price: $25
93
Maker’s 46 (USA; Maker’s Mark Distillery, Loretto, KY). Finished in the barrel with
specially seared oak staves, this Bourbon is a new classic. In the glass, it sports a bright maple color, and lively, spicy aromas and flavors of oaky vanilla and tropical
fruit touched with clove, ginger and allspice.
abv: 47%
Price: $35
93
Single Barrel Hancock’s President’s
Reserve (USA: Hancock Distilling Co.,
Frankfort, KY). Full of bold vanilla, dried fruit and
WineMag.com | 73
buyingguide
sweet caramel, this Bourbon pops with spicy cinnamon,
ginger and clove on the finish. Just a splash of water
opens up more gorgeous vanilla and oak. Has a pleasing
viscosity and modest alcohol presence.
abv: 44.45%
Price: $35
Bourbon with finesse and elegance, this amber spirit
has a pretty vanilla and orange blossom scent, and gentle vanilla sweetness on the palate rounded out with a
baking spice finish. Best Buy.
abv: 43%
Price: $19
92
Filibuster Dual Cask Kentucky Straight
Bourbon Whiskey (USA; MS Trading LP,
Bardstown, KY). For full review see page 14.
abv: 45%
Price: $43
Single Barrel Widow Jane Whiskey
(USA; Cacao Prieto, Brooklyn, NY). From
chocolate maker Cacao Prieto comes an innovative
Bourbon made with water from the Widow Jane mine
in Rosendale, NY—an unusual limestone-rich source
similar to those found in Kentucky. Aged for seven
years in American oak, the spirit needs a little time to
open up and coax forth vanilla and cola-like notes on
the palate. Distinctly sweet on the palate, most of the
flavor is on the finish, with a flourish of sasparilla, vanilla,
cola and allspice.
abv: 45.5%
Price: $63
92
90
Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Buffalo Trace Distillery, Franklin County, KY). A good workhorse for all
manner of cocktails, this bright amber Bourbon has a
butterscotch aroma and oaky, relatively dry flavors that
elongate into a rich caramel finish. Best Buy.
abv: 45%
Price: $25
92
Four Roses Small Batch (USA: Four Roses Distillery, Lawrenceburg, KY). This
blended Bourbon starts smooth and sweet, with sasparilla and maple sugar, then explodes with bold cassia,
cinnamon and cayenne razzle-dazzle.
abv: 45%
Price: $30
92
High West Whiskey American Prairie Reserve (USA; High West Distillery, Park
City, UT). Gentle and soft, this blend of straight Bourbons would be lovely in a Manhattan smoothed out with
sweet vermouth. Look for sweet, creamy caramel aromas and flavors that waft into cocoa and espresso on the
finish. A portion of profits goes to benefit the American
Prairie Reserve in northeastern Montana.
abv: 46%
Price: $40
92
Russell’s Reserve Small Batch 10-YearOld Kentucky Straight Bourbon (USA;
Austin Nichols Distilling Company, Lawrenceburg, KY). From Master Distiller Jimmy Russell and
his son Eddie Russell, this tawny and full-bodied whiskey evolves on the palate. At first, it features orange
peel, vanilla and caramel, then dry leather and cocoa
notes midpalate, and finishes long and lean with clove
and allspice accents. Dilute to taste, sip slowly and consider all the complex flavors.
abv: 45%
Price: $36
91
Big House Straight Bourbon Whiskey
(USA; Underdog Wine and Spirits, Cutler,
CA). Aged for “a six year stretch,” in jailhouse parlance,
this silky amber Bourbon features vanilla touched with
bright Meyer lemon, espresso and allspice. Best Buy.
abv: 45%
Price: $22
91
Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey Aged
10 Years (USA; Bulleit Distilling Company, Lawrenceburg, KY). Rich and creamy, this
small-batch Bourbon offers butterscotch laced with bitter chocolate and orange peel, edged with a clove and
cinnamon finish. Muscular alcohol feel.
abv: 45.6%
Price: $45
91
Two
Stars
Handcrafted
Kentucky
Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Clear
Spring Distillery, Louisville, KY). A lighter-style
90
Russell’s Reserve Small Batch Single
Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA; Austin Nichols Distilling Company,
Lawrenceburg, KY). A word of warning: don’t drink
this straight. Don’t even try. At 110 proof, it can be
downright painful. But with proper dilution, this Bourbon is still rich and deep flavored. Maturation time in
dark “alligator char” barrels yields hazelnut, oak and toffee seasoned with nutmeg and clove.
abv: 55%
Price: $50
89
Parker’s Heritage Collection-Master Distiller’s Blend of Mashbills (USA; Heaven
Hill Distillery, Bardstown, KY). Mingling selected barrels of 11-year-old, rye-based and 11-year-old
wheated Bourbons yields a soft spirit with crème brulee and toffee aromatics. The palate boasts warm caramel, cookie dough and dried fruit flavors, and a dry oaky
note on the finish. It’s interesting and no doubt technically accomplished, but at a whopping 132 proof, most
will find this quite challenging to drink. Limited release
of 7,500 bottles.
abv: 66%
Price: $80
89
Winchester Small Batch Straight Bourbon Whiskey (USA: Terressentia Corp.,
North Charleston, SC). Aged a minimum of two
years, this lighter whiskey is especially enjoyable when
mixed. It has an amber hue with golden highlights, and
gently sweet flavors of vanilla and honey, dried apricot,
raisin, baked apple and nutmeg.
abv: 45%
Price: $23
88
Black Eagle Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA: Eagle Distilled Products
Co., Princeton, MN). Gentle and mild, this Bourbon
plays well with others. With a restrained vanilla flavor
touched with ginger and cinnamon, this spirit is especially nice in mixed drinks with a bit of sweetness.
abv: 40%
Price: $13
88
Michter’s Single Barrel 20 Years Old
Bourbon (USA; Michter’s, Bardstown,
KY). Just over 200 bottles of this super-limited edition were released in 2012—most of them are already
gone from the shelves. Although many whiskey lovers
have lauded this Bourbon as a new favorite, the titanic
114 proof makes it hot and difficult to savor the butterscotch-like flavors, even with major doses of water
added.
abv: 57.1%
Price: $450
85
Buckhorn Kentucky Straight Bourbon
Whiskey (USA; Clear Springs Distilling
Co., Louisville, KY). This sour-mash blended whiskey
has a light amber hue and vanilla and spice notes overshadowed by a distinctly resin-like flavor. Best to save
it for mixing, perhaps with ginger ale and lots of lime.
abv: 40% Price: $15
84
Black Ridge Small Batch (USA; Clear
Spring Distilling Co., Louisville, KY). Despite lovely fruity aromatics that tell a tale of fresh apples and sweet vanilla bean, on the palate this smallbatch Bourbon has a strong resin flavor and alcohol heat,
with vanilla and fruit resurfacing only on the finish.
abv: 45%
Price: $30
RYE
95
Sazerac Rye (USA; Sazerac Company,
Frankfort, KY). Versatile, crisp, and an ideal
match for cocktails that also include orange liqueur, as
well as its namesake classic cocktail. Light aromas include vanilla and a touch of juicy citrus. Flavors run to
bitter orange, dark chocolate and black tea, finishing
with a pepper tingle. Velvety feel, despite the brisk alcohol. Best Buy.
abv: 45%
Price: $25
95
Wild Turkey Rye (USA; Campari America, San Francisco, SF). Made with a mix of
4- and 5-year-old rye whiskies and aged in barrels with
“alligator” char to add more flavor, this relatively new offering is delicious. Look for a bright, saturated golden
color and sweet vanilla and fruit aromas. On the palate, it has a soft texture and rounded feel, and lingering
caramel notes pepped up with the bold spiciness characteristic of rye. Best Buy.
abv: 40.50%
Price: $23
94
Angels Envy Rye Whiskey (USA; Louisville Distilling Company, Louisville, KY).
This honey-hued rye has a remarkable aroma, melding cookie dough, hazelnut and marzipan. The same
luscious flavors show up on the palate, rich and sweet,
leading into a confected finish of Nutella sprinkled with
nutmeg and cinnamon. The sugar-and-spice effect is
due to 18 months finishing time in casks that first held
Cognac, then Caribbean rum.
abv: 50%
Price: $80
94
Dickel Rye Whisky (USA; Geo. A. Dickel
& Co., Tullahoma, TN). Despite a mash bill
of 95% rye and 5% malted barley, this golden-bright,
small-batch rye is smooth and not as spicy as other rye
whiskies. It has a surprising freshness, with bold vanilla,
nut, fresh apple and white-flower aromas leaping out
of the glass. While charred-oak flavors hit the palate
first (it’s matured in charred oak barrels for at least five
years), it finishes downright buttery, touched with ginger and maple sweetness. Best Buy.
abv: 45%
Price: $25 toffee and peat. Gift a bottle to a Scotch lover to introduce the joys of American whiskeys.
abv: 46%
Price: $60
91
BOURBON liqueur
Templeton Rye (USA; Templeton Rye,
New York, NY). Perfect for classic cocktails,
this golden-amber rye invites with lots of vanilla on the
nose and palate, plus mouthwatering notes of pear, cinnamon and black pepper.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
91
Bulleit Rye Whiskey (USA; The Bulleit
Distilling Co, Lawrenceburg, KY). Bright
and buttery, this rye has a warm, malty scent and mellow flavors of cookie dough and juicy lemon, interspersed with just the right amount of rye bite.
abv: 45%
Price: $28
87
Big House Tupelo Honey (USA; Underdog Wine and Spirits, Cutler, CA). As a
six-year-old Bourbon whiskey blended with honey liqueur, this has potential as a digestif or sweetener for
Bourbon-based drinks. It has a lightly floral cast, melding honey, vanilla and white flowers with a sprinkle of
cinnamon. Use a light touch, though—it still has kick.
abv: 35%
Price: $22
90
Filibuster Dual Cask Rye Whiskey (USA;
MS Trading LP, Bardstown, KY). A little
aeration time coaxes out a mellow vanilla scent. As
with its Bourbon counterpart, this rye is aged in American oak casks, then finished in “white-wine seasoned
French oak barrels.” The result is a soft feel and honeyed fruit notes spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg. abv: 45%
Price: $43
89
Dad’s Hat Pennsylvania Rye Whiskey
(USA; Mountain Laurel Spirits, Bristol,
PA). For full review see page 15.
abv: 45%
Price: $43
88
Widow Jane Rye (USA; Cacao Prieto,
Brooklyn, NY). This two-year-old amber rye
has a fresh apple scent, and a slightly fruity cast on the
palate too. Most of the flavor is on the finish, showing
clove, bitter chocolate and cinnamon. Strong alcohol
presence.
abv: 45.5%
Price: $37
Other American
Whiskey
93
Michter’s Small Batch Original Sour
Mash Whiskey (USA; Michter’s, Bardstown, KY). Resurrected after 23 years, this smooth,
buttery American whiskey is worth the wait. It has mellow vanilla and oak flavors, with a faint cherry essence
on the long finish that seems to urge, “stir up a few
Manhattans already.”
abv: 43%
Price: $44
BOURBON/RYE/Scotch
91
High West Whiskey Campfire (USA; High
West Distillery, Park City, UT). An unexpectedly wonderful pairing with a sweet chocolate or
a sticky caramel dessert, Campfire blends straight rye
whiskey, straight Bourbon and blended Scotch. Altogether, it’s big and smoky, with lots of iodine, but doesn’t
completely overwhelm, settling into a pleasing mix of
WineMag.com | 75
buyingguide
Beer
a summer sampler
W
arm weather and long days spent
outdoors call for thirst-quenching
beverages that whet the palate
and provide refreshment. Many brewers
understand this, and offer light, efferverscent
styles as summer seasonal selections: lagers,
wheat beers, extra pale ales and the like.
But with rampant experimentation in the
domestic craft-beer industry and the openmindedness of today’s craft-beer drinkers,
some breweries are bottling alternatives for
summer enjoyment.
These new releases offer intense aromas and
robust flavors while maintaining their balance
and approachability. Deschutes’s Twilight
Summer Ale and Full Sail’s ESB are great
examples.
Even traditional styles vary these days, as
brewers experiment with cross-styling. First
was the colored IPA craze (black, white,
red), but the style lines are continually being
blurred. One example is Samuel Adams’s new
release, the Double Agent IPL, a mash-up of a
lager and an IPA that combines the crispness of
a lager with forward hop aromas.
That said, if “the lighter, the better” is your
summer mantra, this month’s reviews include
several lagers. From light and mild to robust
and roasty, whatever your preference, we’ve
got you covered.
So soak up the sun and enjoy these summerready brews while the time is right. And,
as always, don’t forget to check out our full
review database at buyingguide.winemag.com
for even more brews to satisfy your summer
sipping needs.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
LAGERS
84
92
Kräftig Lager (American Pale Lager; William K. Bosch Brewing Co., MO). This
clean and refreshing lager offers light notes of bread
grains, cereal and faint floral hints. The palate is brisk
and sharp, with high carbonation and a light feel. Crisp
and easy on the close; a good choice for enjoying outdoors, very cold, on hot days.
abv: 5% Price: $6/12 oz 6 pack
Samuel Adams Double Agent IPL (American Pale Lager; The Boston Beer Co.,
MA). A new brew from BBC, the Double Agent IPL is
a playful hybrid of an IPA and a lager. It’s balanced and
smooth, with medium-intense citrusy hop notes on the
nose that continue onto the palate, offering a hint of bitterness through the finish. The crisp pale-malt core provides a solid base, with very light sweetness and barely
ripe stone-fruit flavors supporting the hoppy bite. Brisk
carbonation keeps the mouthfeel lifted and the finish
clean. This is a sessionable selection that’s perfect for
those who want a bit more oomph and character to their
lagers.
83
91
ALES
Samuel Adams Boston Lager (Viennastyle Lager; The Boston Beer Co., MA).
abv: 4.9% Price: $10/12 oz 6 pack
90
Full Sail LTD Series Limited Edition Vienna-style Lager Recipe No. 05 (Vienna-
style Lager; Full Sail Brewing Co., OR). This rich
yet smooth lager pours a bright copper color with a
frothy off-white head that shows good retention. Malty
aromas of roasted grain, soft caramel and a hint of toffee are upfront on the nose, but are complemented
by a spicy hop aroma in the background. The mouth
is creamy and flavorful, lifted by medium carbonation
and a citrusy dry-hop character that lingers on the finish. This is a well-balanced and enjoyable brew.
abv: 5.6%
Kräftig Light Beer (Light Lager; William
K. Busch Brewing Co., MO). A pale, clear
yellow color in the glass, this immediately looks easy to
drink. Faint notes of sweet grain and light malt lead on
the nose and carry through onto the bright, highly effervescent palate. Clean and refreshing on the finish, overall this is an easygoing and accessible brew.
91
Deschutes River Ale (American Blonde
Ale; Deschutes Brewery, OR). This stunning ale pours a bright golden color in the glass with
great clarity and a pillowy white head that lingers. Grass
and citrus-hop aromas waft from the glass, with supporting notes of clean malt, cracker and soft red apple.
Those notes continue onto the palate, with high carbonation that keeps the mouthfeel light and brisk. Lingering accents of bitter hops and stone-fruit skin adorn the
finish.
abv: 4%
91
Full Sail Brewer’s Share Phil’s Existential Alt (Altbier; Full Sail Brewing Co.,
OR). This Brewer’s Share release is a well-balanced
and surprisingly sessionable Altbier. It pours a medium
amber-mahogany color in the glass, with initial aromas
of lightly toasted bread, caramel and citrus oil followed
by secondary accents of light fruity esters and honey.
The palate is rich and malty, but lifted by moderate carbonation, which keeps the mouthfeel accessible and refreshing. A roasted malt note lingers through the dry
and lightly bitter finish. A portion of the proceeds go
to the Friends of the Children mentoring program in
Portland.
abv: 5.1% Price: $5/22 oz
89
Full Sail Limited Edition ESB Pub Series
Extra Special Bitter (Extra Special/Strong
Bitter; Full Sail Brewing Co., OR). Although this
is not a traditional warm-weather seasonal release,
the folks at Full Sail love to shake things up and push
boundaries. Despite the style name, this is a wellbalanced and crisp selection that’s not overly bitter
or strong for summer enjoyment. Sure, the bitter
hop aromas and flavors of citrus oil, pine resin and
pressed yellow flowers are noticeable throughout, but
they’re not overdone and they remain balanced by a
solid caramel-malt core. Medium bodied, with ample
carbonation and a dry finish.
89
Samuel Adams Latitude 48 IPA (American IPA; The Boston Beer Co., MA). Part
of the Hop-ology 12-pack but now also sold in sixers
on its own now, Latitude 48 IPA is a playful selection
that’s brewed with hops from top growing regions located along (or close to) the 48th latitude. The result
is a flavorful yet surprisingly drinkable IPA, with medium-intense hop-derived notes of orange pith, pine and
resin supported by a lightly toasted caramel-malt core.
Touches of pepper and citrus pith linger on the finish,
which ends dry and slightly bitter.
abv: 6%
88
Deschutes Twilight Summer Ale (American Blonde Ale; Deschutes Brewery,
OR). Deschutes’s summer seasonal ale is a refreshing
blonde that offers upfront aromas of grass, apricot and
slightly resinous hops with light accents of clean grain
and light caramel. Although this is brewed with five different hop varieties, they only dominate the bouquet—
the palate showcases a malt backbone and ripe stonefruit flavors. Secondary hints of fresh-cut grass and honey add depth and interest, and a soft bitterness lingers
on the finish.
87
Avery Limited Release Karma Belgianstyle Pale Ale (Belgian-style Pale Ale;
Avery Brewing Co., CO). Karma pours a slightly
cloudy, light-orange color, with a good off-white head
that fades quickly but leaves nice lacing behind with
each sip. The malty aromas are direct, yielding forward
scents of caramel, sweet citrus, red apple flesh and
honey, along with yeasty accents of peppery spice and
bubble gum. The palate boasts medium carbonation
and lifted flavors of green apple and pear, while spicy
accents return and remain through the medium-length
close.

Williams Selyem 2011 Pinot Noir

Transcription

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