Magnum - Norfield

Transcription

Magnum - Norfield

Effective S/N: DJ-2674-95
Release 1
Document Number 17-016
First release
June 6th 2005
Norfield Industries
P.O. Box 459
Chico CA, 95927
Technical Support: (530-891-4214 Parts: (800) 824-6242
Serial No.:
Date Sold:
Norfield Industries is the name that represents Quality, Reliability, Support, Innovation and
True Customer Service. We have been dedicated to providing quality products and excellent
customer service for more than 40 years. Norfield Industries has earned a reputation in the prehanging industry for setting standards for reliable machinery, full technical support, machine
parts, full line industrial woodworking tools and supplies and a team of customer care representatives to support you! Our factory-trained technical personnel are ready to assist you on the
telephone or in your shop.
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Safety ................................................................................................................................................. 6
Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 9
Specifications ..................................................................................................................................... 10
Section 1 Installation ......................................................................................................................... 13
1.1 Shipping Damage & Shortages ....................................................................................................... 13
1.2 Installation .................................................................................................................................... 13
1.3 Positioning the Machine................................................................................................................. 14
1.4 Locations of Connections ............................................................................................................... 14
1.5 Lifting & Moving .......................................................................................................................... 15
1.6 Electrical Connections ................................................................................................................... 15
1.7 Air Supply & Connections ............................................................................................................. 16
1.8 Vacuum Requirements ................................................................................................................... 18
Section 2 Operation ........................................................................................................................... 19
2.1 Preface .......................................................................................................................................... 19
2.2 Running the Machine ..................................................................................................................... 20
Section 3 Settings & Adjustments ..................................................................................................... 23
3.1 Regulator Setting ........................................................................................................................... 23
3.2 Air Tool Lubricator Setting ............................................................................................................ 23
3.3 Adjustment for Door Width............................................................................................................ 24
3.4 Adjusting for Normal Width Doors ................................................................................................ 24
3.5 Adjusting for Odd width Doors ...................................................................................................... 24
3.6 Undercut ........................................................................................................................................ 24
3.7 Backset Adjustment ....................................................................................................................... 25
3.8 Lock Height ................................................................................................................................... 27
3.9 Header Clearance ........................................................................................................................... 28
3.10 Changing the Lock Bit ................................................................................................................. 29
3.11 Changing the Latch Drill Bit ........................................................................................................ 30
3.12 Changing the Lock Bore Backup Block ........................................................................................ 30
3.13 Sander Adjustment ....................................................................................................................... 30
3.14 Changing Butt Spacing ................................................................................................................ 31
3.15 Changing Size of Mortise ............................................................................................................. 32
3.16 Routing Flat Jambs ...................................................................................................................... 33
3.17 Changing the Mortise Depth......................................................................................................... 34
Section 4 Special Adjustment ............................................................................................................ 37
4.1 Infeed Bed ..................................................................................................................................... 37
4.2 Adjustment of Infeed Bed Clutch ................................................................................................... 38
4.3 Outfeed Roller ............................................................................................................................... 38
4.4 Cutterhead ..................................................................................................................................... 39
4.5 Cutterhead Height .......................................................................................................................... 39
4.6 Cutterhead Replacement ................................................................................................................ 40
4.7 Cutterhead Motor Drive belt .......................................................................................................... 41
4.8 Sander Wheels Replacement .......................................................................................................... 41
4.9 Sander Drive Belt .......................................................................................................................... 42
4.10 Replacement of Powerfeed Wheels............................................................................................... 42
4.11 Centering the Latch Drill in the Door ........................................................................................... 42
4.12 Aligning lock and Latch Drills ..................................................................................................... 43
4.13 Adjustment of Drill Sensors - Lock .............................................................................................. 45
4.14 Adjustment of Drill Sensors - Latch ............................................................................................. 46
4.15 Latch Plate Mortise Centering ...................................................................................................... 47
4.16 Latch Plate Depth ........................................................................................................................ 47
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4.17 Main Bar ..................................................................................................................................... 49
4.18 Jamb Rack Adjustment................................................................................................................. 50
4.19 Leveling the Router Carriage ....................................................................................................... 51
4.20 Changing the Router Bit Radius ................................................................................................... 52
4.21 Butt Router Carriage Bushings ..................................................................................................... 53
4.22 Changing the Butt Router from 0 to 3-1/2 Degree ......................................................................... 54
Section 5 Maintenance ....................................................................................................................... 55
5.1 General Maintenance ..................................................................................................................... 55
5.2 Cutterhead ..................................................................................................................................... 55
5.3 Router Bits .................................................................................................................................... 56
5.4 Drills ............................................................................................................................................. 56
5.5 Filters ............................................................................................................................................ 56
5.6 Regulator ....................................................................................................................................... 56
5.7 Air Tool Lubricator........................................................................................................................ 57
5.8 Cylinders ....................................................................................................................................... 57
5.9 Sander Belt .................................................................................................................................... 57
5.10 Bearings ...................................................................................................................................... 57
5.11 Lubrication of Bearings and Bushings .......................................................................................... 57
Section 6 Troubleshooting ................................................................................................................. 59
6.1 Preface .......................................................................................................................................... 59
6.2 Drill Cycle Sequence ..................................................................................................................... 59
6.3 Width Index Speed Controller ........................................................................................................ 62
Troubleshooting Guide ...................................................................................................................... 64
5
Safety considerations are an important element of machine
installation and operation. Actively maintaining a safety
mindset about yourself and others while working around or
on the equipment is of primary importance. Operators and
maintenance personnel should refer to the safety information on the
following pages to familiarize themselves with warning labels and
practices providing for safe operation and servicing of this machine.
Danger indicates an imminently hazardous situation, which if not
avoided, WILL result in death or serious injury.
Warning indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not
avoided, COULD result in death or serious injury.
Caution indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not
avoided MAY result in minor or moderate injury. It may also be used
to alert against unsafe practices.
Caution, without the safety alert symbol, indicates a potentially hazardous situation which, if not avoided may result in property damage (i.
e. not personal injury).
Notice indicates important information that if not followed may
CAUSE damage to the equipment.
Mandatory Action conveys an action step that should be taken to
avoid the hazard.
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Do not operate this machine unless all guards are in place and working correctly. If any guards or hazard labels are missing or damaged call Norfield's
Service department immediately and request a replacement at 800-824-6242.
Read and understand the operator's manual before using this machine. Failure
to follow proper operating instructions could result in death or serious injury.
This machine, when in operation, produces wood chips and dust. The operator
and all persons in the work area MUST wear approved eye protection with
permanently attached, rigid plastic side shields. These safety glasses must
conform to ANSI Z87.1 standards and will have "Z87" printed on the lens.
This machine, when in operation, produces a noise level greater than 85dB.
The operator and all persons in the work area MUST wear approved hearing
protection. OSHA has determined that a noise level in excess of 85dB average
in 8 hours can cause permanent hearing damage. We recommend that hearing
protection be worn even if the decibel level is below 85dBA.
Certain types of wood dust can cause allergic reactions, Sawdust has been determined to be a Group A carcinogen by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). A dust collection system or an approved personal
dust mask MUST be used during the operation of this equipment.
This machine has moving parts that loose clothing and long hair can become
entangled in. Take care not to become caught between the work material and
the feed mechanisms or any other moving components.
Before beginning any service repairs, general maintenance, or adjustments
you MUST follow proper Lockout Tag-Out procedures. OSHA regulation
1910.147 establishes a minimal lockout tag-out procedure to assist employers
in development of their own procedures.
Only trained personal that have read and understand the operator's manual and
all the safety precautions may operate this machine.
7
Inspect the machine at the beginning and end of each shift for damaged or
cracked components such as, but not limited to, saw blades, router bits, drill
bits, and boring bits.
Never leave this machine unattended while it is in operation. Make sure that
all electrical and air is in the off position when the machine is not in use or is
unattended and that any cutting blades have come to a complete stop.
Do not attempt to clean material from this machine until all the cutting blades
have come to a complete stop. Even when the machine has been turned to the
off position it may take up to several minutes for the blades to coast-down to
a complete stop.
Woodworking machinery is inherently dangerous, common sense and good
safety practices are your best defense against injury.
If you have any questions regarding the correct operation of the machine and
safety procedures in this manual call the Norfield Industries Service Department at 800-824-6242.
8
Your new NORFIELD Magnum Door and Jamb machine was designed and manufactured
conforming to a set of rigid specifications by trained workers who take pride in the quality
of their work.
Each Norfield machine must pass a series of tests and inspections before it is released
for shipment. In order that this machine may provide you with a long period of
continuous and satisfactory service, it is necessary that it be properly installed, operated,
and maintained. This manual has been prepared to assist you in carrying out these
functions. We urge you to study the contents of this manual and to be guided by the
suggestions herein.
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Electrical Requirement
AC Line Voltage
Phase
Hertz
Amperage
208 /208
3/1
60
30/30
230/208
3/1
60
30/30
460/230
3/1
60
20/30
3 Phase Motor Specification
Application
Motor
Part Number HP
Volt
Amp
Lock Drill
Norfield
6801-021
2
230
6.2
Latch Drill
Norfield
6802-032
1
230
3.4
Sander
Baldor
M3546T
1
230
3.4
Cutterhead
Baldor
M36136T
5
230
12.4
Elevator
Dayton
3N842
1/3
230
1.0
Single Phase Motor Specification
Powerfeed
Dayton
4Z531
1/15
DC Volts
.75
Router Motor
Dewalt
DW616
1-1/2
115
9.0
FPR Motor
Dewalt
DW616
1-1/2
115
9.0
Air Requirements
Machine Cycle Rate
Shipping Weight
Minimum Floor Space
Requirement (Width x
Length x Height)
2.2 CFM @ 90 PSI
8.5 CFM @ 90 PSI with optional air
screwdriver
30 Doors/hour
Approx 2600 Lbs
7’-5” X 26’-4” X 8’-9”
10
1/2" I.D. Minimum air line when less
than 20 feet from compressor OR
3/4" I.D. minimum air line when
more than 20 feet from compressor
Machine Capabilities
Door Width
1’-6” to 4’-0”
Door Height
Up to 8’-0”
(Up to 9’-0” capabilities optional)
Door Thickness
1-1/8” to 1-3/4”
(Up to 2-1/4” capabilities optional)
Jamb Width
2-1/2” to 10-1/2”
Jamb Length
Up to 8’-0”
(Up to 9’-0” capabilities optional)
Jamb Thickness
1/2” to 1-5/8”
Stop Thickness
1/2” Maximum
Butt Spacing
Variable, 6-1/2” Minimum from top of door
Butt Radius
1/4” to 5/8”
3-1/2”, 4-0”, 4-1/2”, 5-0”
Butt Size
2-3/8” to 5-0”
Lock Backsets
Up to 1-1/4” X 2-3/4”
Faceplate Routing
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1.1 SHIPPING DAMAGE & SHORTAGES
Before and after the crated machine is unloaded from the truck the crate should be inspected
for any signs of damage. If suspected damage is found it must be noted on the bill of lading
and signed by the driver and the person receiving the shipment. After the machine has been
uncrated inspect it and all other contents of the crate for shipping damage. In the event that
damage has occurred in transit notify the freight carrier and Norfield Industries immediately. Inspect the complete shipment against the packing slip to make sure all items listed
are accounted for. If any shortages are noticed, the freight carrier and Norfield Industries
should be notified immediately. While any shortages, other than back orders, or freight
damages are the complete responsibility of the freight carrier, Norfield Industries desires to
be notified so that the replacement of lost or damaged parts can be expedited.
1.2 INSTALLATION
The information in this chapter refers to the installation and setup of the Magnum Door and
Jamb Machine. Since the purchase of the machine includes a start-up by a field technician,
the following five items MUST be accomplished before the technician arrives:
1. Uncrate the machine and inspect for shipping damage or shortages.
2. Position the machine in its permanent location
3. Provide the proper electrical supply (7 wire input) and make connections to machine and
vacuum unit.
4. Provide the proper air supply and make connections.
5. Position and connect the vacuum system.
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1.3 POSITIONING THE MACHINE
This figure shows the overall dimensions of the Magnum Door and Jamb machine. It is
recommended that you allow 4 feet between the rear of the machine, where the electrical panel
is located, and any wall or structure.
Material flow into and out of the machine should also be considered for optimum
performance. On the infeed end of the machine a minimum 8 feet of loading space is
recommended and on the outfeed end a minimum 4 feet is recommended.
Since the vacuum system can be mounted on either end of the machine placement of the
machine should allow adequate space for the vacuum.
1.4 LOCATIONS OF CONNECTIONS
Figure 1.1 shows the location of the electrical, air and vacuum connection points. Refer to
the other figures noted for complete detail and instructions. If you have any questions
regarding any of these connections contact Norfield’s Service Department for advice at
(530) 891-4214.
FIG 1.1
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1.5 LIFTING & MOVING THE MACHINE
The easiest way to move the machine is by picking it up from above. A steel bracket is
supplied with the machine that can be used as a pick-up point. A chain can be passed
through the bracket and over the forks of a fork lift see figure 1.2. Make sure the chain is
strong enough to support the weight of the machine (approx. 2600 lb.). The bracket is secured to the top of the frame just to the right of the control panel. The machine can also be
lifted from underneath, but it is not recommended due to uneven weight distribution. Also,
be careful not to damage any tubing, wiring, or components mounted to the front or bottom
of the frame.
Do not lift the machine from any part of this section
FIG 1.2
1.6 ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS
All electrical connections MUST be made by a qualified electrician.
Before making any electrical connections, insure that the voltage listed on the specification
plate on the electrical box door match those of your building (i.e. 208 volt-3 phase-60 Hz,
230 volt-3 phase-60 Hz, or 460 volt/480 volt-3 phase-60 Hz). Refer to Figure 1.3 for electrical connections to the machine.
Norfield recommends that you have main disconnect switches (one for each input source)
near the machine. These switches are usually wall mounted in a position convenient to the
operator for safety reasons consult your electrician.
15
FIG. 1.3
1.7 AIR SUPPLY & CONNECTIONS
Clean, dry air is important for the continued performance and low maintenance of air
operated tools and equipment. Foreign materials such as moisture, dirt, grit, and pipe scale, all
generally present in air systems, can cause severe abrasive wear in valves and cylinders.
Before connecting the Magnum to your air supply, insure that you have adequate mainline
filtration and drainage. In addition to adequate filtration, Norfield also highly recommends the
use of an air drying system. If you have any questions regarding your air system, please
contact Norfield Industries or consult with the field technician upon arrival for the start-up, see
figure 1.4. The Magnum requires 2.2 CFM at 90 PSI of clean, dry air for proper operation. If
an air screwdriver and air pre-drill are to be used through the machine's F.R.L. (Filter
Regulator Lubricator) an additional 6.3 CFM will be required. (Total 8.5)
(Continued on page 17)
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(Continued from page 16)
The air supply is connected to the machine at the F.R.L. unit. The supply line should be
1/2 inch. I.D. minimum if the length of the run is 75 feet or less. If the length of the run is
between 100 and 300 feet, 3/4 inch I.D. pipe should be used. Use 1 inch. I.D. pipe for runs
between 300 and 1000 feet.
Never use a supply line less than 1/2 inch inner diameter or any air fitting to connect the air
supply to the machine with less than a 3/8 inch diameter.
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1.8 VACUUM REQUIREMENT
A dust collection unit must be used with this machine. If the machine is connected to an
existing in-plant dust collection system, the system must be capable of moving at least
1900 CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) at the connection point. Vacuum connection is made at the
Vacuum Collector adapter which can be located on either end of the machine. (See the PreInstallation drawing for detailed specifications). Refer to figure 1.5.
If the Norfield Vacuum unit was purchased with this machine, a cord end is provided on
the backside of the machine (230V Phase 3 @ 10A).
Allow adequate space for access to the dust bags and controls of the vacuum system. The
vacuum unit may be placed at either end of the Magnum depending on the layout of your shop.
It is important to have as few bends as possible in the 8” vacuum hose (connecting the
vacuum unit to the machine) as this may affect the efficiency of the vacuum. For optimum
performance lime the vacuum hose length the no more than 10 feet.
FIG. 1.5
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2.1 PREFACE
The following is a brief description of the operation procedures of the Magnum. It is
recommended that before processing a door, the operator should make sure that the machine is
properly adjusted for door width, undercut, butt size, lock height, backset, size of lock and
latch bores and size of the faceplate rout. Proper procedures for making these adjustments are
outlined in Section 4.
Refer to figure 2.1 below (for adjustment locations).
FIG 2.1
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2.2 RUNNING THE MACHINE
1. Turn on SIZER, POWERFEED, and DRILLS motors (In that order). These motors
should remain "ON" unless the machine is to be idle for an extended period of time.
Please refer to figure 2.2 below.
2. Adjust the Top Section for correct door width. On the operator control panel there are
two 3-position selector switches that spring return to the center. They are under the
heading “DOOR WIDTH”. One is labeled FAST in the center and UP and DOWN. The
other is labeled SLOW in the center and UP and DOWN.
There are two methods that can be used to set door width. One is used for automatically
stopping at the standard 2 inch increments and at your pre-set door undercut. The other
method is used to set the machine for any door width between 1-6 and 4-0 by reading the
door width scale, see figure 2.1.
Move the top section in the direction needed to obtain the correct setting by the FAST
switch in either the UP or DOWN position. When you are approximately 1/2 inch to 1/4
inch below the desired door width, rotate the SLOW switch to the UP position and release
it. The top section will go up slow and stop at the next door width .
If you would like to do a special width door, rotate the FAST switch to either the UP or
DOWN position, as necessary, and watch the scale until it is near the width you desire, then
momentarily turn (or bump) the FAST switch until the scale reads the correct door width.
Slow Door Width
Adjustment
Fast Door Width
Adjustment
FIG. 2.2
20
3. Pick up a door and turn it up on edge so that it can be sighted for straightness. If a bow
is noticed, place the door on the infeed bed so that the bow is toward the machine (if
possible). This way the bow will be away from the stop on the jamb when the door is
closed.
4. Adjust the door width with the infeed bed control lever until the undercut reference
marks align, see figure 2.3.
FIG 2.3
5. Slide the door into the powerfeed system where it will be sized, beveled, and the corners
sanded. To adjust the speed of the powerfeed wheel adjust the knob located in the
operator control panel, see figure 3.4 on page 24. For light cuts and soft woods it can be
set at the fastest speed, but should be reduced for heavier cuts and hard woods for
performance.
6. If the next door to be processed is the same width as the door in the machine, sight it for
straightness and then place it on the infeed bed in the “holding” position (leading end
just under the first roller of the undercut reference assembly).
7. Place the jamb in the desired position on the jamb rack (right or left hand) by pushing
the dado end against the appropriate jamb stop.
8. By this time the first door will be waiting in the drill section. Roll it against door stop at
the same end as the jamb is located. While pressing the door against the main bar and
the door stop, operate foot pedal to clamp door.
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9. Start the drill cycle by depressing the foot pedal (located to the right of the clamp
pedal). Release the router carriage by pushing the button on the left side of the router
carriage handle. CAUTION: the motor will automatically start when lowered to about
25 degrees. Lower the router carriage until the locating dog drops over the "top hinge"
index block. The router bit should be between the door and jamb.
10. Clamp the router carriage to the door making sure that the jamb is in contact with the
bottom of the router carriage. If the jamb requires moving up or down to compensate
for different thickness jambs activate the control which is located on the front of the butt
router. It is a two-way toggle switch, pushing it up raises the jamb and pushing it down
lowers the jamb. When the jamb switch is released a brake is applied to hold it in the
desired position.
11. Mortise the door and jamb. When the mortise is complete the router carriage should be
stopped in the forward position over the door. This positions the router carriage so that
when it is lifted it is captured in the appropriate position for lowering the next time. If
you fail to do this, the next time the router carriage is lowered it will bring the bit down
into the jamb.
12. Unclamp the carriage from the door and move the carriage to the next hinge location. It
is not necessary to lift the router carriage to its full up and locked position between
mortises. When the last mortise is completed, raise the carriage up until it locks.
13. Apply the hinges.
14. Unclamp the door and fold the jamb toward you. Roll the door until the lock bore is
over the faceplate template, then activate the stop by pulling the faceplate handle out,
away from the frame. This will activate the locating cone.
15. Push the door against the main bar, turn on the faceplate router and clamp the door by
pushing the button in the faceplate router handle. The router will also plunge into the
door after clamping. mortise the faceplate by following the template.
16. When the faceplate mortise is complete, push the button on the handle to stop the router
and unclamps the door.
17. Remove it from the machine.
18. As the operator walks to their left for another door, grasp the door that is in "holding"
and push it into the powerfeed.
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3.1 REGULATOR SETTING
Set the regulator at 90 psi. The black adjustment knob is located beneath the regulator
gauge. Turn the knob clockwise to increase the regulated pressure or counter clockwise to
reduce the pressure, see figure 3.1.
3.2 AIR TOOL LUBRICATOR SETTING
Set the drop type lubricator so that two to four drops of oil is mixed with the air supply
every minute. Adjustment is accomplished with the adjustment knob which is located next
to the oil fill port. Turning the knob counter clockwise increases the oil drip rate. Observe
the drip rate through the sight bulb on top of the lubricator.
Over tightening the adjustment knob will damage the lubricator.
FIG 3.1
23
3.3 ADJUSTMENT FOR DOOR WIDTH
The top section can be raised or lowered to adjust the machine for any door width between
1-6 and 4-0. There are two methods for establishing door width, 1) index at 2" nominal
widths, or, 2), stop the width adjustment at any increment using the width scale. The
controls for making this adjustment, the “DOOR WIDTH” switches are located on the
main control panel at the front of the machine. CAUTION: There should be no doors
in the machine when this adjustment is made.
3.4 ADJUSTING FOR NOMINAL WIDTH DOORS
To raise or lower the top section rotate the FAST switch to either the UP or DOWN
position, as necessary, and watch the scale until you are approximately 1/4” below the width
setting you want, then rotate the SLOW switch to the UP position and release it. The top
section will go up slow and stop at the next door width.
3.5 ADJUSTING FOR ODD WIDTH DOORS
Rotate the FAST switch to either the UP or DOWN position, as necessary, and watch the
scale until it is near the width you desire, then momentarily turn (or bump) the FAST switch
until the scale reads the correct door width.
Slow Door Width
Adjustment
Fast Door Width
Adjustment
FIG 3.2
3.6 UNDERCUT
The Magnum is designed to size and bevel doors to an exact width. Since many doors come
from the manufacturer under nominal width, most pre-hung door manufacturers size all
doors 1/16" to 3/16" under nominal size. A 1/8" undercut is most common. A 2'-0" door
undercut 1/8" would be 23-7/8" from the hinge edge to the long point of the bevel.
24
The Magnum is adjustable for up to 3/8" undercut on a nominal sized door. For removing
more than 3/16”, or in some harder wood stile doors, the powerfeed feed rate must be
reduced. CAUTION: Never attempt to make large cuts at a fast powerfeed settings.
If you are sizing doors that are considerably oversized and/or you are attempting a large
undercut, the cutterhead must be SHARP and the cutterhead V-belt must be TIGHT. It is
recommended that you use the slower powerfeed speed settings when large undercuts are
made. The machine is factory set for a specific undercut of 1/8". The undercut scale,
located on the side of the left width carriage, displays the undercut the machine is set for.
Next to the scale is the undercut adjusting knob.
When the undercut pointer aligns with the center "O" mark on the scale, the machine is set
to bevel doors at nominal width (no undercut). To change the undercut to 1/8", loosen the
locking knob and adjust the undercut assembly watching the pointer until it aligns with
1/8". Tighten the locking knob and check the alignment of the pointer and the 1/8" division
below the "0" mark again.
3.7 BACKSET ADJUSTMENT
FIG 3.3
25
OPERATOR CONTROL SETTINGS
Slow Door Adjustment
Emergency Stop
Fast Door
Adjustment
Drill Motor
Start/Stop
Sizer & Sander Motor
Start/Stop
Powerfeed Speed
Control
Bit Change
Retract/Extend
Latch Drill
Off/Short/Long
Lock Drill Cycle Switch
Off/Half/Thru
FIG 3.4
The distance from the long point of the beveled edge to the center of the lock bore is
referred to as backset. The machine is quickly and easily adjustable from 2-3/8” backset to
5”, or any measurement in between. The backset adjustment (located on top of the frame
above the Lock Drill) is factory set so it will bottom out at 2-3/8” when turning the
adjusting crank counterclockwise and stop at 5” when turning the crank clockwise. The
backset can be set at any intermediate position and the lock drill's position will be
maintained until the backset is changed.
When doing any backset greater than 2-3/4” the latch drill stroke will have to be increased
26
to allow it enough travel to reach the lock bore hole, this is simply accomplished by the
LATCH STROKE selector switch mounted on the operator control panel.
As a rule, when the backset is changed to any setting other than 3”, the particle board drill
back-up block will also have to be changed to prevent tear-out of the lock bore.
3.8 LOCK HEIGHT
FIG 3.5
Lock height is defined as the distance from the center of the lock bore to the top of the door.
On the Magnum, lock height is determined by a door stop that always references the top of
the door to the Lock Drill and Latch Drill. The standard stop system is adjustable for all
standard lock heights up to 8'-0" doors. In order to set the lock height follow the
instructions below.
1. Set the door and jamb stop assembly on the index bar, but do not tighten the locking
screws, refer to figure. 3.6.
2. Mark a door with a line at the desired lock height from the top of the door, i.e. 44” from
the top for a 6-8 door.
3. Place the door in the door clamps with the top towards the stop you want to set.
27
4. Position the door so that you can see the line centered in the back-up block lock bore
hole, then clamp the door. Norfield recommends that you draw a line on the back up
block in the center bottom of the hole to increase accuracy of this step.
5. Position the door stop assembly against the top of the door, without moving the stop and
tighten the locking screws.
6. With the drill motors OFF and the door clamped, step on the cycle start foot pedal, when
the lock drill bit contacts the door unclamp the door, this will return and reset the drill
cycle. Remove the door from the machine and measure from the top of the door to the
drill mark left on the door by the bit.
7. Adjust the door stop screw until you have achieved 44" (or the dimension you desire).
3.9 HEADER CLEARANCE
FIG 3.6
28
Header clearance is the gap between the top of the door and the head jamb, usually 1/16" to
1/8". Normally this dimension will not require changing. However, if an adjustment is
necessary check the lock height first and adjust the jamb stop only if the lock height is
correct. Adjusting the door stop to change header clearance will result in an incorrect lock
height.
FIG 3.7
ENGAGE THE EMERGENCY STOP OR THE BIT CHANGE SWITCH
PRIOR TO ATTEMPTING ANY BIT CHANGES BE SURE ALL
TOOLS HAVE COME TO COMPLETE STOP.
3.10 CHANGING THE LOCK BIT
The lock drill bit can be changed from the front of the machine. Activate the front panel
switch labeled “BIT CHANGE”. Open the drill cover.
The lock drill chuck is located on the lock drill motor shaft. There are two set screws in the
forward half of this chuck which secure the lock drill bit in place. Loosen these two set
screws to remove the drill bit.
29
The replacement bit must have a flat ground on the shank otherwise it will not fit into the
chuck. There is a pin inside the chuck to prevent the bit from turning in the chuck in the
event the set screws are not properly tightened. When inserting a bit, rotate it until the flat
aligns with the pin and push the bit into the chuck until it bottoms out in the chuck. This
will permit the door to pass without striking the drill tip and will allow proper chip
clearance between the drill and the chip deflector plate just inside the main frame. Tighten
the set screws securely.
3.11 CHANGING THE LATCH DRILL BIT
Supplied standard for the latch drill of your machine is a "single fluted flat type" drill bit.
To remove this bit use a adjustable wrench secured across its flats to keep it from
turning while you use a 1-1/4” wrench on the flats on the latch drill chuck to break
loose the tightened threads. The bit can then be unscrewed by hand. As an option a
"double fluted twist type” drill bit is available. To remove it, it is necessary to insert a
punch in the hole through the bit to keep it from turning, and then, just as with the "flat"
type, use a 1-1/4” wrench on the drill chuck shaft to break loose the tightened threads.
When re-installing a bit use the appropriate method to snug the bit after hand tightening.
3.12 CHANGING OF LOCK BORE BACKUP BLOCK
Each time the bit size or backset is changed the lock bore backup block must also be
changed. The same block may be used not for 2-3/8” and 5” backset with each different
bore size, but a separate block must be used when boring at 2-3/4” backset because the
bores will overlap. NOTE: Backup blocks must be exactly 3/4” thick or latch drill centering
will be changed.
Backup blocks can be purchased from Norfield Tools & Supplies @ 1-800-824-6242.
3.13 SANDER ADJUSTMENT
The sander is designed to relieve the sharp corners on the lock edge left by the sizer/
cutterhead. The adjustment for raising the sanding wheels is located just above the sander
on the top side of the main frame. Turn the adjustment knob 1/4 turn each time there is an
indication that the corners are too sharp.
Do not attempt to use sanding wheels after they are worn smaller
than 4" in diameter. Doing so will cause the sander wheels to lift
the door and an uneven edge will result.
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3.14 CHANGING BUTT SPACING
From time to time you may need to change your butt spacing on an existing index bar,
or set up a new index bar. To accomplish this, the following procedure is suggested:
FIG 3.8
1. If changing an existing index bar, use a metal scribe, mark the location of the index
blocks when they are set for your standard spacing so you can accurately and quickly
return them to standard.
2. Place the "non-standard" or “set-up” door in the machine, roll it to the proper door stop
and clamp it.
3. Starting at the top of the door measure down the door edge and make a mark where the
top of each butt is to be located.
4. Loosen the set screws in the router index blocks.
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5. Lower router carriage until the locating dog on the router carriage is over the index
block nearest the top of the door, and the router carriage is resting on the door.
6. Slide router carriage back and forth until the applicable "butt reference line" on the
door clamp bar is properly aligned with the mark on the door nearest the top of the door,
see figure 3.8.
7. Move the door while holding the stop to tighten set screws in router index
8. block. Clamp router carriage to door and check to make sure that the lines are still
aligned. Repeat process for other butts.
9. If frequent changes in butt spacing are made, we recommend the purchase of a second
index bar with six index blocks and two door stops. The entire index bar can be quickly
changed by releasing the locking clamp mechanism.
3.15 CHANGING SIZE OF MORTISE
Referring to figure 3.9, when all three sets of the pendulum stops are in the path of stop
screws the mortise will be 3-1/2” wide. As stops are rotated out of the path of the stop
screws the mortise will increase to 4”, 4-1/2” and 5” wide. The distance of cut into the door
and jamb is controlled by the stop turret, which can be rotated to change from 3-1/2” to 4-”
butts. The turret stop screws will fine tune the depth of cut for each setting.
The turret stop shown in figure 3.9 is routable for use with 3.5” or 4.0” butts and is so
marked. If 4-1/2” or 5” butts are called out only occasionally, one set of stop screws on the
turret stop can be readjusted, or if you have frequent occasion where 4-1/2” or 5” butts are
called out, you will find it advantageous to purchase a second turret stop for this purpose.
Like the stop system in Fig. 4-10 used for flat jambs, the turret stops can be easily
interchanged without disturbing their settings.
Different butts from different manufacturers vary slightly in width. This can be
compensated for by adjusting stop screws. Also, if you sharpen your router bits the
diameter of the bits will change and you will need to compensate for this by adjusting the
stop screws.
The use of the turret stop system is designed to "work" to the stop on the jamb and to the
outside edge of the door, represented by the clamp plate that secures the router carriage to
the door.
The actual distance routed into the door will vary as the thickness of the door varies, and the
actual distance routed into the jamb will vary as the reveal varies.
This system has three basic advantages: It automatically compensates for different
thickness doors and for jambs with varying reveals, it automatically compensates for
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crooked jambs and it allows the operator to always maintain an exact clearance between the
door and the stop on the jamb when the door is closed.
FIG 3.9
3.16 ROUTING FLAT JAMBS
When mortising flat jambs (jambs with no stop) the stop system shown in figure 3.10 is
used to control the movement of the router in the transverse direction (across the hinge pin).
The “Stop Dog” is rotated to the down position, this tab will be positioned between the door
and jamb. By adjusting the stop screws the distance of mortise into the door and into the
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jamb can be precisely controlled. This stop system is generally used for 3-1/2” butts only.
If you have need to mortise for 4” butts on jambs with no stops, it is recommended you
purchase an extra Flat Jamb Stop Assembly and set it for 4” butts. The two assemblies are
quickly and easily interchangeable and the individual settings are not disturbed by
removing and replacing them on the router carriage.
FIG 3.10
3.17 CHANGING THE MORTISE DEPTH
If the butts you use vary in thickness this can be compensated for by adjusting the depth of
the router. Move the adjustable scale clockwise so that 0 on the scale is located exactly
above the pointer on the base. Open the locking lever and turn the depth adjustment ring
Locking Clamp
Adjustment Ring
FIG 3.11
34
until the bit is at the desired depth. Turning the ring clockwise raises the cutting head while
turning it counterclockwise lowers the cutting head. Turn the depth adjustment ring along
with the adjustable scale to the desired depth. Note that each mark on the adjustable scale
represents a depth change of 1/64" or .015" (.4mm). Close the locking lever.
35
36
This section describes special adjustments that may become necessary during the life of this
machine. This includes those adjustments that will be necessary to make after certain parts
are replaced.
4.1 INFEED BED
The infeed bed must be parallel with the outfeed bed. The combination of the four
components - infeed bed, cutterhead, outfeed bed, and outfeed rollers add up to a bed-type
planner (or Jointer). If the infeed bed is parallel to the outfeed bed, but 1/8” under the
outfeed bed, then you would remove 1/8" from the door at the high point of the bevel.
The Outfeed bed is not adjustable. The Infeed bed, Cutterhead &
Outfeed rollers are all adjusted in relation to the Outfeed bed.
FIG 4.1
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Should you experience problems in cutting a straight edge on your doors we urge you to
proceed with caution in your efforts to correct the problem. Ninety-nine percent of all
problems in this area arise from the cutterhead rather than the Infeed Bed, outfeed bed or
rollers. If you have attempted to solve your problem and you are completely satisfied that
the problem is not with the cutterhead, then we suggest you call the factory before
attempting to adjust the infeed bed.
4.2 ADJUSTMENT OF INFEED BED CLUTCH
The clutch is located on the infeed bed pivot shaft inside the frame. The purpose of this
clutch is to provide the proper amount of friction for the infeed bed handle so that it can be
adjusted and will stay where you leave it. As the friction discs wear after long periods of
service, a lessening of the friction may be noticed. When this occurs, a slight adjustment of
the clutch is necessary.
1. Back off all tension screws at least three turns.
2. Loosen the adjusting nut set screw at least six turns.
3. Reset the adjusting nut. Turn clockwise for more torque or counterclockwise for less.
One valley at a time.
4. Tighten the adjusting nut set screw in nearest
spline notch. Do not tighten set screw on
threads of hub.
5. Tighten the tension screws alternately and
evenly until the heads bottom. Do not use
washers under heads of these screws.
6. Check the friction on the infeed bed handle to
see if it is too tight or to loose. If necessary, readjust until the proper tension is provided.
FIG 4.2
4.3 OUTFEED ROLLER
To the right of the outfeed bed, facing the machine, there are four rollers called outfeed
rollers. They are positioned at the factory and are referenced to the outfeed bed. It is not
likely they will ever get out of adjustment. Adjusting these rollers in the field by other than
factory trained service people is not recommended. If there is a problem in obtaining a
straight edge on the door the problem is most likely the cutterhead or possibly the Infeed
Bed. For instance, if an undersized cutterhead is placed on the machine or if the Infeed Bed
is tilted forward, the door will “bump” the outfeed bed and cause a "nick" in the door edge
11” from the front end of the door. Investigate the cutterhead and/or infeed bed and make
adjustments.
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After years of use, the outfeed rollers will wear to the point that they will need to be
replaced. Their useful life can be extended by keeping them and the shafts they turn on,
clean at all times and by reversing them on the shafts periodically. This is practical since
only the high point of the bevel actually rolls on the rollers.
4.4 CUTTERHEAD
The “effective cutting height” of the cutterhead is a term used to describe the location of the
long point of the bevel on the door as it is being sized. The long point of the bevel is always
towards the machine and the door slides against a permanent reference, or fence. It doesn’t
matter how thick the door is, the effective cutting height of the cutterhead remains constant,
assuming the diameter of the cutterhead and the “set” of the blades remain constant.
The relationship between the effective cutting height and the outfeed bed is extremely
critical. THEY MUST BE THE SAME HEIGHT, or an uneven edge will result. If you
change the cutterhead and the new cutterhead is smaller in diameter or if the blades are set
differently, and a problem with the sized edge develops, you should determine what the
problem is with the cutterhead and resolve it before making adjustments. Adjust the height
of the cutterhead mandrel to the outfeed bed only as a last resort, first determine what has
changed to create the problem.
4.5 CUTTERHEAD HEIGHT
Before beginning any service repairs, general maintenance, or adjustments you MUST
follow proper Lockout Tag-Out procedures. OSHA regulation 1910.147 establishes a
minimal lockout tag-out procedure to assist employers in development of their own
procedures.
Should the need arise to remove the cutterhead mandrel assembly from the machine to
replace the bearings, or to install a new mandrel assembly. The following procedure is
recommended, refer to figure 4-3.
1. Turn off all electrical power and lock and tag-out the machine
2. Remove cutterhead shroud, pulley and belt.
3. Loosen lower set screw (inside machine just under mandrel) one turn.
4. Remove 4 bolts that secure mandrel to frame.
5. Install a new mandrel (or mandrel with new bearings).
6. Moderately tighten 4 bolt that secure mandrel to frame.
7. Tighten bottom set screw.
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8. Tighten 4 bolts securely.
9. Replace cutterhead.
10. Place a beveled, straight-edge door on the outfeed bed. Pressing the door firmly against
the machine, roll it to your left until the left end of the door is over the cutterhead. Using
the pressure of the second powerfeed wheel to hold the door in place, rotate the
cutterhead backwards. The cutter knives should touch the door, but still turn freely. If
this condition does not exist, raise or lower cutterhead until you achieve this condition.
4.6 CUTTERHEAD REPLACEMENT
The condition of the cutterhead should be inspected daily. The cutterhead knives are
carbide which means that anything metallic, either in the door or stuck to it, will chip or
actually break one or more knives. It is good practice never to put a door “edge down” on
the floor as foreign particles (rocks, dirt, metal particles, screws, etc.) may be picked up by
the edge of the door. A chip in the cutterhead will show up on the door as a ridge the entire
length of the beveled edge.
FIG 4.3
To replace the cutterhead:
1. Turn off all electrical power and lock and tag-out the machine .
2. Open the front cover to expose cutterhead and powerfeed wheels.
3. Remove locking pin from first powerfeed plate.
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4. Remove the cap on cutterhead vacuum shroud.
5. Using two wrenches, hold the mandrel shaft and loosen the cutterhead nut
6. (LH threads on mandrel shaft).
7. Remove dull cutterhead and replace or replace disposable insert blades.
8. Reinstall nut, vacuum cap, powerfeed plate locking pin. and close cover.
4.7 CUTTERHEAD MOTOR DRIVE BELT
Your cutterhead motor is equipped with a motor base/belt tension device. Loosen the lock
nuts securing the motor base to the rails (not screws that secure rails to frame) and turn the
adjusting bolts clockwise to force the motor away from the cutterhead mandrel. Be careful
to keep the motor drive pulley aligned with the mandrel pulley. After taking up the slack in
the belt, tighten the lock nuts. Check for 1/4” deflection of the belt at center between the
motor pulley and mandrel pulley.
Use of a dull Cutterhead will shorten the life of the mandrel
bearings, drive belt & the motor.
4.8 SANDER WHEELS REPLACEMENT
1. Turn off all electrical power and lock and tag-out the machine.
2. Open the powerfeed cover and the locking pin from the second powerfeed plate.
3. Use a punch to keep shaft from rotating while loosening the locking nut.
4. Note carefully the side of the sander wheel which has the abrasive and replace the new
wheels one at a time. The two shafts turn toward each other so the wheel goes on the
first shaft, the closer of the two shafts, with the abrasive at the top of the wheel toward
the door. The second sander wheel goes on the rear shaft also with the abrasive toward
the door Be careful not to loose the bushings.
5. Each wheel requires a bushing and a pair of 5/8” flat washers on either side of its hub.
6. Reinstall bushings, wheels, and nuts (NOTE: left-hand treads on the long shaft).
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7. Lower the sander with the knob on top of the machine until the wheel is just touching
the opening in the frame.
8. Reinstall locking pin in powerfeed plate and close guard.
4.9 SANDER DRIVE BELT
The sander wheels present no great load so the sander double V-belt need not be tight. In
fact, if the belt is overly tight, the belt life is very short. Loosen the 3/8”-16 hex bolt and
raise or lower the idler pulley mounting block until there is about 1” deflection of the belt
on the nearly vertical section of the belt nearest the infeed end of the machine. Be careful
not to miss-align the idler pulley as it is adjusted.
Do not over adjust the sanding wheels, it will cause excessive wear, a
light touch on the door edge is all that is required.
4.10 REPLACEMENT OF POWERFEED WHEELS
Should the need arise to replace one or both powerfeed motors, scribe a line around the base
of the motor to be replaced so the new motor can be mounted in the exact position of the
original. This is important as the motors are “canted” at the factory so as to create enough
downward pressure on the door to overcome the lifting action of the cutterhead and sanding
wheels. Without this "cant" there is no assurance that the edge of the door will be straight.
On the other hand, if the “cant” is too great, the door will be pulled down on the cutter
assembly so much that the door will hit the outfeed bed, causing a poor edge on the door.
4.11 CENTERING OF THE LATCH DRILL IN THE DOOR
If you process any doors with a 5” backset, then this adjustment, if required, should be
made with the backset at 5”. Press door against Main Bar, roll it to door stop and clamp in
the usual manner. Bore and drill for the lock and latch bolt. Measure the amount the latch
bolt is off center in the door edge and the amount it is off center where it enters the lock
bore. If the latch hole is off center more where it enters the door edge than where it enters
the lock bore. The problem can usually be corrected by following these suggestions:
1. Turn off all electrical power to the machine and lock and tag-out.
2. Note the amount the latch hole is off center from the last door to be machined.
3. Measure and record the distance from the center of the latch drill to the main frame. Add
or subtract step #2 measurement from this distance.
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4. Loosen the eight hex bolts, four on each side of the latch drill assembly that secure the
assembly to the frame mounting brackets.
5. Move the entire latch drill assembly toward you or away from you to achieve the
dimension you arrived at in step 3 above. The latch drill assembly can be moved in and
out, and the parallel to the frame can be changed by moving the top or bottom unequally
to correct the angle drilled into the door.
6. Tighten the hex bolts.
4.12 ALIGNING LOCK AND LATCH DRILLS
Under normal operating conditions the lock and latch drills will remain properly aligned.
However, should the machine (or in particular the lock drill) sustain a severe jar, the lock
drill can become misalign. Also, should you remove the lock drill motor for repair or
replacement the new or repaired motor will need to be realigned with the latch drill.
Following is a suggested procedure:
FIG. 4.4
1. Clamp door.
2. Cycle the lock and latch drills to bore a set of test holes in a door.
3. Remove the door and extend lines from the lock hole edge to the door edge with a
square.
4. Measure from the lines drawn in step 3 to the latch hole. Measurement “A” should equal
measurement “B”.
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5. If the bores are not aligned the latch bore can be adjusted by loosening the bolts that
secure the assembly to the frame and moving slightly to the left or right as needed. Be
sure to keep the motor at a right angle to the door. Then check the lock height from the
door stop and adjust if necessary.
FIG 4.5
44
4.13 ADJUSTMENT OF DRILL SENSORS - LOCK
Under normal operating conditions the lock drill will remain properly adjusted for depth of
cut. However, should the need arise for adjustment, the sensors on the cylinder will need to
be moved. As shown in figure 4.6 below there are three sensors. The home sensor indicates
that the lock drill has returned to its resting position. If it is not triggered the drill cycle will
not start. The door pull sensor is used when the operator wants a pocket ,not a full bore,
through the door. This may need adjustment if the depth of cut needs to be changed. The
lock bore limit sensor may need adjustment if the cutter is not cutting completely through
the door. To adjust these sensors all that is needed is a flat blade screwdriver. First loosen
the machine screw then move the sensor along the cylinder as needed. Tighten down the
screw when done.
FIG 4.6
45
4.14 ADJUSTMENT OF DRILL SENSORS - LATCH
Under normal operating conditions the latch drill will remain properly adjusted for depth of
cut. However, should the need arise for adjustment, the sensors on the cylinder will need to
be moved as was the case with the lock drill. As shown in figure 4.7 below there are three
sensors. The home sensor indicates that the latch drill has returned to its resting position. If
it is not triggered the drill cycle will not start. The short stroke sensor is used for certain
backsets. This may need adjustment if the depth of cut needs to be changed. The lock bore
limit sensor may need adjustment if the cutter is not cutting completely through the lock
bore. To adjust these sensors all that is needed is a flat blade screwdriver. First loosen the
machine screw then move the sensor along the cylinder as needed. Tighten down the screw
when done.
FIG 4.7
46
4.15 LATCH PLATE MORTISE CENTERING
Centering the latch plate mortise in the edge of the door is accomplished by adjusting the
nuts securing the template holder posts to the frame, see figure 4.8.
Be sure to retain the 1/16” gap between the template holder and the door when adjusting the
mortise centering.
To center the latch mortise on the latch bore, the air cylinder that activates the alignment
cone can be adjusted on its mounting bracket. Loosening the cylinder mounting bolts and
shift the cylinder side to side (not at an angle) until the mortise is centered on the latch bore.
Tighten the mounting bolts securely
4.16 LATCH PLATE DEPTH
FIG 4.8
47
There should be 1/16” clearance between the top of the template
holder and the long point of the beveled edge of the door.
To establish the vertical travel of the latch mortising assembly, lift the latch routing lever by
activating the button in the handle (no door in the machine and with the motor switch off).
Check to see that the base of the template guide on the control weldment does not touch the
bottom surface of the template holder. If it does touch the template, the control weldment
must be lowered slightly by loosening the shaft collars. When at rest, the template guide
should now be touching at least 1/16” of the bottom of the template. After the template
holder is set at the correct height and the vertical travel is correct, the depth of the actual
mortise may be adjusted. To mortise deeper, loosen the micrometer and adjust the router up
into the casting the amount needed and tighten the micrometer. If the mortise is too deep,
use same procedure except lower the router.
Always Disconnect the router motor electrically before removing it from
the casting.
FIG. 4.9
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4.17 MAIN BAR
Calibration Check
The Main Bar is the rectangular long tube assembly that is affixed to the width carriage
assemblies. It must be parallel to the outfeed rollers. To ascertain this, select a door that has
just been sized and beveled, measure it to make sure it has no taper, check the scale on the
machine to see if it reads the exact width of the door you just measured, and then place it on
the outfeed rollers. Now, at each end of the door, measure from the hinge edge down to the
main bar. This measurement should be 2-1/2” at each location.
If the dimension of the door to the main bar are equal but are not 2-1/2”, the following
procedure should be used:
1. Calculate the difference of error from 2-1/2” , as an example if the actual measurement
is 2-7/16” the error would be 1/16”.
2. Move the door width scale pointer by the amount of the error, up for a measurement less
than 2-1/2”, and down for a greater dimension. until you achieve the required 2-1/2”.
After moving the scale you will need to re-set the door width using the elevator buttons.
3. Re-calibrate the pointer on the undercut scale by loosening the pointer and moving it to
the correct reading. The reading of the scale should be the same as the undercut of the
door sized.
4. The indicator lines on the undercut reference roller assembly may also need calibration,
The red lines should align when the door is 2-1/2” above the main bar.
If the dimension on the undercut scale is different than the measured door width, the
following procedure should be used:
1. Re-calibrate the undercut scale by moving the pointer until it reads correctly, move just
the pointer without adjusting the assembly up or down.
2. Re-calibrate the undercut reference roller indicator until you have the 2-1/2” dimension
and the proper undercut, this may require repeating steps one and two several times.
Set the undercut scale to read exactly what the door width is by moving the pointer.
If the dimensions are not equal from the hinge edge of the door to the main bar, adjust
the width carriage on the outfeed end (right side) by moving the torque tube gear up or
down as required, an adjustment screw is provided at that location.
49
4.18 JAMB RACK ADJUSTMENT
Angular Adjustment
The jamb supports should be at an angle of 90 degrees from the face of the door. This can
be checked with a framing square. To establish the correct angular orientation between the
jamb and the door the jamb rack may be rotated. By loosening the jamb nut and turning the
adjustment link (using the flats) see in figure 4.10 below. By shortening the link the jamb is
tilted towards the door and by lengthening the link the jamb is tilted away from the door. Be
FIG. 4.10
sure to check and adjust both ends of the jamb rack.
Parallel Adjustment
The jamb should be parallel to the top of the door for correct hinge pattern routing. This can
be checked by raising the jamb lift to the correct height and checking the relationship of the
door and jamb with a framing square set flat on the jamb and the top of the door. If
adjustment is necessary, this can be accomplished by loosening the jamb nut, removing the
clevis pin, and then rotating the clevis to either extend or retract the length between the
cylinder and the link, see figure 4.11. This in turn will raise or lower the jamb rack and
jamb to obtain parallelism. A combination of adjustment on both sides may be necessary.
FIG 4.11
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4.19 LEVELING THE ROUTER CARRIAGE
In order that the router mortises to the same depth both in the door and in the jamb, it is
necessary that the router carriage be level both before and after clamping it to the door.
Before attempting to level the router carriage, though, you must ascertain that two
conditions exist:
→
The hinge edge of the door is 2-1/2” above and parallel to the main bar, see figure 4.12.
If one end of the main bar is low and the other end is high, the mortise will be deeper in
the door at one end and deeper in the jamb at the other end.
→
A gap of 1/32” between the door clamp bar and the door exits when the carriage is
resting unclamped on the door edge and the door is pressed against the main bar. If the
gap is less than 1/32”, the clamp bar will strike the edge of the door as the carriage is
being lowered. If it is greater than 1/32”, the action of the clamp cylinder will pull the
plate and tram rollers forward causing the pivot point to lower and a deeper mortise in
the jamb will result. If the gap is not 1/32”, loosen the four screws that secure the
adjusting bolts to the plate and adjust the carriage by turning the adjusting bolts equally
to attain a 1/32" gap. Retighten the screws. If the jamb reference bars do not rest flat on
the door edge with the carriage down, the following procedure will correct this:
FIG. 4.12
After checking the above conditions use the following procedure to correctly level the
router carriage:
1. Make sure that your door edge is square.
2. Loosen the three tram rollers and raise or lower plate until the jamb reference bars are
resting flat on the door edge.
3. Tighten the top center roller.
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4. Position and tighten the lower rollers, leaving a 1/32” gap between each of them and the
bottom of the tram rail. This will permit the carriage to "rock", thus conforming to the
door edge should the edge be slightly bowed.
5. Adjust the felt wipers to effectively wipe the top surface of the tram rail
4.20 CHANGING ROUTER BIT RADIUS
If you change bit radius, i.e. 5/8” radius to 1/4” radius, you must also change the butt router
travel stops.
1. WIDTH - Two sets of mounting holes are provided for the width stop mount. Simply
move the block to the proper position by removing the two mounting bolts, see figure
5.13.
2. TRANSVERSE - Across the hinge pin travel, must also be changed by adjusting the
turret stop screws, see figure 4.13. It may be necessary to change the length of the
adjusting bolts or screws. If you change radii often, you will find it advantageous to
purchase an extra stop turret and/or Flat Jamb Stop Assembly so quick changes can be
make without disturbing settings.
FIG 4.13
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4.21 BUTT ROUTER CARRIAGE BUSHINGS
The useful life of the bushings in your router carriage will depend upon how well the rods
they slide on are kept clean. If any type of lubricant is used on the rods, the bushings will be
short-lived.
When the bushings do wear to the point where the carriage no longer makes an acceptable
mortise, you may (1) replace the bushings yourself, (2) have them replaced at a machine
shop, or (3) purchase a rebuilt router carriage from the factory. If you choose to install new
bushings into the carriage yourself, you will need a press and two line reamers, one 1/2”
and one 5/8”. To replace, press or drive the old bushing out FROM THE OPPOSITE END
and press the new bushings in, taking care not to damage them. Once inserted, line ream
each pair of bushings to fit the matching slide rod. Since most door shops do not normally
have presses and line reamers, we would suggest you contact the factory for a replacement
carriage, as the cost will, as a rule, not exceed the cost of taking your router carriage to a
machine shop. Plus you save the down time.
Contact Norfield’s Service Department for advice if you plan on changing the
bushings yourself.
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4.22 CHANGING THE BUTT ROUTER FROM 0 TO 3 ½ DEGREE.
This will allow the Magnum to machine the hinge mortises flush with the beveled edge of
the door. The jamb can be held and machined at the same angle. Simply install the 6 jamb
riser wedges, item number 0001-741 which is included with standard machine. The wedges
slip over the jamb risers on the Magnum jamb rack and are held in place by a thumbscrew
on the side. The thin end of the wedge should point toward the operator.
1. Unplug the Butt Router motor, whenever you work on or make adjustments to the butt
router assembly the router must be unplugged.
2. Lower the butt router assembly.
3. Press the butt router latch button and raise the butt router assembly slightly, to release
the latch pin. Maintain pressure on the latch button while you lower the butt router
assembly.
4. Unlock the pivot pins.
5. Located on each side of the butt router assembly are two pivot lock pins (see figure
4.14). Pull the pin out and rotate it 90°. With both pivot lock pins unlocked push down
on the butt router handle. This will cause the pivot blocks to move up in their slots.
Hold the handle down and rotate the pivot lock pins 90° and allow the pins to lock the
pivot blocks in the up position.
6. To return the router to its normal position, simply reverse the procedure.
Pivot Lock Pin
Pivot Lock Pin
FIG. 4.14
54
5.1 GENERAL MAINTENANCE
Door machines work in an environment of endless sawdust. Sawdust is not only very
abrasive when allowed to penetrate motors, bearings, etc., but it also contains pitch. Pitch
clings to sliding surfaces and eventually coats the bearings. Mechanisms become “sticky”
and, if not cleaned, soon become inoperable. To combat the effects of sawdust on your
machine the following recommendations are made:
1. Using an air hose blow all motors and routers off 2-3 times daily.
2. Clean slide rods on router carriage and latch drill daily with a non-oil based solvent
(Electrical/Electronic Grade Contact Cleaner), and wipe rods completely dry with clean
dry cloth. DO NOT LUBRICATE! Any type of lubrication on these slide rods will
merely collect more sawdust. Clean and wipe dry the slide rods on the lock and latch
drills weekly.
3. Clean gears and gear racks on elevator mechanism daily. A good stiff brush is best, but
an air hose is better than nothing. DO NOT LUBRICATE! Wipe vertical posts on
elevator clean daily.
4. Once a month remove door edge rollers and clean the roller I.D. and shaft O.D. with a
non-oil based solvent, electrical/electronic contact cleaner. Wipe dry, DO NOT
LUBRICATE!
5. Inspect and clean weekly the two cam guides and rollers on the jamb rack These
components are located on the backside of the jamb rack on opposite ends. First blow
the cavities clean, then take a brush and clean any pitch left on the rollers and guides.
5.2 CUTTERHEAD
When the blades of the Cutterhead become dull or damaged it will be necessary to replace
them. Please keep the following three items in mind.
1) Each blade is reversible and can be used twice.
2) Only use the correct inserts for this cutterhead for proper operation, The replacement
blades are available from Norfield Tools and Supplies.
3) The head turns in excess of 7000 RPM and any imbalance will result in severely
shortening the life of the bearings in the cutterhead mandrel, in addition to giving a poor
finish to the door edge.
55
Most local grinding services are not equipped to provide the proper sizing and balancing.
Therefore, we urge owners not to send their cutterheads or knives for sharpening. Use only
the correct replacement knives.
Keep all cutting tools sharp. Dull cutterheads, router bits or drill bits will not only do
shabby work, they shorten the life of essential parts of your machine.
When changing router bits ALWAYS disconnect the router cord from the receptacle first.
5.3 ROUTER BITS
Router bits will need to be sharp to provide a clean, well formed mortise. Check router bits
once daily and replace if the router bit looks burnt or dull.
5.4 DRILLS
Drill bits need to be kept sharp at all times Failure to do so will result in the use of
additional electrical current and shorten motor and bearing life. Here again, we believe we
can do a superior job in sharpening your drill bits and we solicit this work from you.
5.5 FILTERS
The air filters on your machine are designed to further clean air that is not heavily laden
with moisture or impurities. If excessive water or pipe scale, etc., is present in the air to the
filters, the filters will clog up and pass through the excess water, etc. For this reason if you
do not have an in-plant air cleaning system, we suggest you contact the Norfield Service
Department or your local air system supplier for assistance in correcting this problem.
Water present in air cylinders and valves will severely shorten their life by up to 90%!
Check the air filters daily see figure 3.1. The drain on the pre-filter (particulate) is
automatic, but still needs to be checked daily to make sure it is “dumping” all the water.
The particulate air filter will require cleaning at intervals dependent on the quantity of
impurities in your air supply. The secondary filter (coalescing) is designed to remove very
small impurities and oils from the air. This filter must be replaced when the element
appears discolored or dirty. NOTE: A DISCOLORED COALESCING FILTER
INDICATES A POSSIBLE PROBLEM WITH THE UPSTREAM AIR SUPPLY
5.6 REGULATOR
Set regulator at 90 PSI
56
5.7 AIR TOOL LUBRICATOR
Set lubricator to drop (2-4) drop per minute, with one air tool running. This is not a critical
adjustment, but excess oil in the air serves no useful purpose. Use 10 wt. turbine oil to refill
the lubricator.
Do not use hydraulic fluid, oil containing additives or any substance
not recommended by Norfield as this may cause damage to the
machine and possibly void your warranty.
5.8 CYLINDERS
Keep cylinder shafts clean to prevent excess wear. As seals in all cylinders will take a “set”
when not operating, cylinder manufacturers strongly recommend that all cylinders be cycled
at least two times each morning before placing a door and jamb in the machine. This will
allow the cylinder seals to regain natural sealing ability and will lengthen cylinder life
considerably.
5.9 SANDER BELT
Inspect the sander drive belt weekly for tightness, cracks or hard spots at the splice. When
adjusting the tension of the belt it is important not to over tighten the sander double V-belt
as this will severely shorten the life of the belt.
5.10 BEARINGS
Inspect the bearings of the cutterhead and sander weekly. Check for noise, play, and
smoothness of operation.
5.11 LUBRICATION OF BEARINGS AND BUSHINGS
With the exception of adding oil to the Lubricator no lubrication is required. All bearings
are pre-lubricated and sealed: All bushings are self-lubricating 'Nylatron' or 'Oilite'.
Note: Bushing life will be lengthened by keeping slide rods clean. Never use oil, graphite or
silicone spray on the bushings of any assembly of your machine to “free” it up. Any foreign
substance such as those above will collect fine sawdust and dirt particles which will tend to
wear the bushings very quickly. If any assembly is binding, and you have kept the
mechanisms clean, the problem is most likely that the parts have become misaligned.
57
58
6.1 PREFACE
The first portion of this section is to help familiarize you with the operation of the Magnum
by briefly describing what actually happens (mechanically, pneumatically and electrically)
when you “push the button”, refer to Figure 6.1 for additional assistance. The second and
third portions of this section deals with troubleshooting the machine.
6.2 DRILL CYCLE SEQUENCE
Before the drill cycle sequence can start, the operator must first depress the foot clamp
pedal to clamp the door. The activation of the foot clamp pedal also enables the drill cycle
pedal to operate. This is a safety feature: it prevents the operator from inadvertently ruining
a door by attempting to drill it before it is clamped.
To start the drill cycle, the operator presses the drill start foot pedal. If the latch drill is fully
retracted and the latch drill home position sensor is on, the lock drill valve is then activated
by the controller. When the lock drill stroke is far enough out to activate the lock drill
return sensor the controller turns the lock drill valve off, and the lock drill returns. When
the lock drill has returned the lock drill home position sensor is turned on which then
enables the latch drill sensor valve to turn on supplying air to the latch drill cylinder and it
begins its stroke. When the latch drill has extended to activate the latch drill return sensor
the latch drill valve is turned off, returning the latch drill to its home position. Opening the
clamps at any time during this cycle will immediately turn off the valve that is on, returning
the drills to their home position and resetting the cycle to the off position.
The flow control valve and controls the speed at which the cylinder retracts and extends
meter when air is fed into either the lock drill or latch drills cylinders, the air escaping the
cylinder.
The setting of the lock drill flow control valve determines how fast the lock drill will bore
through the door. Drilling time should be 4 seconds. If it is faster, there is danger of
overloading the lock drill motor. On certain doors with hardwood drill blocks, a longer
drilling time may be required.
As the drill sequence occurs the output and input lights on the controller turn on and off as
various actions occur, these lights can be a invaluable troubleshooting help. As an example,
if you step on the cycle start pedal and the foot pedal light on the controller does not come
on when the pedal is engaged, then the controller is not getting the start input, and the
machine will not cycle, Taking a close look at the cycle start foot pedal switch is warranted.
59
To assist you in determining the cause of a problem when it occurs, we have labeled and
identified all inputs and outputs of the controller modules. The labeling and lights should be
clearly visible through the window on the operator control panel.
Refer to figure 6.1 and 6.2 to clarify the nomenclature and location of the controller
components.
Label
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
Meaning
CMI
Controller Module Input
CMO
Controller Module Output
EMI
Expansion Module Input
EMO
Expansion Module Output
Lock drill on/off .................................................................................Controller light CMI-0 (on when active)
Latch Drill on/off ...............................................................................Controller light CMI-1 (on when active)
Latch Home Sensor ............................................................................Controller light CMI-2 (on when Latch drill is down)
Latch return Sensor ............................................................................Controller light CMI-3 (on when Latch drill is up)
Lock Home Sensor .............................................................................Controller light CMI-4 (on when Lock drill is retracted)
Lock Return Sensor............................................................................Controller light CMI-5 (on when Lock drill is extended)
Clamp Pedal .......................................................................................Controller light CMI-6 (on when Clamp pedal is depressed)
Cycle Pedal ........................................................................................Controller light CMI-7 (on when Cycle pedal is depressed)
Width Index up ..................................................................................Controller light CMO-0 (on when Width Index is going up)
Width Index Down .............................................................................Controller light CMO-1 (on when Width Index is going down)
Width Index slow ...............................................................................Controller light CMO-2 (on when Width Index is going is slow)
Buzzer ................................................................................................Controller light CMO-7 (on when Buzzer is sounding)
FPR Button ........................................................................................Controller light EMI-0 (on when FPR button is depressed)
FPR Sensor ........................................................................................Controller light EMI-1 (on when FPR is pulled out)
Width Index up ..................................................................................Controller light EMI-2 (on when Fast or Slow held in up position)
Width Index down..............................................................................Controller light EMI-3 (on when Fast or Slow held in down position)
Width Slow ........................................................................................Controller light EMI-4 (on when Slow held in either position)
UP Limit ............................................................................................Controller light EMI-5 (on when Width Index is full up)
Down Limit ........................................................................................Controller light EMI-6 (on when Width Index is Full down)
Width Index Sensor............................................................................Controller light EMI-7 (on when Width Index is on a size)
Door Clamp........................................................................................Controller light EMO-0 (on when door is clamped)
Lock Drill...........................................................................................Controller light EMO-1 (on when Lock Drill is drilling)
Latch Drill .........................................................................................Controller light EMO-2 (on when Latch Drill is drilling)
FPR Lift .............................................................................................Controller light EMO-3 (on when FPR is up)
FPR Cone ...........................................................................................Controller light EMO-4 (on when FPR cone is extended)
FPR Motor .........................................................................................Controller light EMO-7 (on when FPR motor is running)
60
FIG. 6.1
CONTROLLER MODULE
INPUT
EXPANSION MODULE
OUTPUT
INPUT
OUTPUT
Lock
On/Off
0
0
Width
UP
Latch Router
Push Button
0
0
Door
Clamp
Latch
On/Off
1
1
Width
Down
Latch Router
Stop Single
1
1
Lock
Drill
Latch
Home
2
2
Width
Slow
Width
Up
2
2
Latch
Drill
Latch
Return
3
3
Width
Down
3
3
Face Plate
Lift
Lock
Home
4
4
Width
Slow
4
4
Face Plate
Cone
Lock
Return
5
5
Up Limit
5
5
Clamp
Pedal
6
Down Limit
6
6
Cycle
Pedal
7
Width Sensor
Increments
7
7
Width
Buzzer
FIG. 6.2
61
Face Plate
Motor
As the controller turns functions on and off, output lights on the controller or expansion
module turn on and off, the pneumatic control valves also have a indicator light that come
on when they are activated. If the controller is providing an output the corresponding
control valve light should be on.
To assist in trouble shooting the following figure will identify which pneumatic control
valve powers, which function on the machine.
FIG. 6.3
6.3 WIDTH INDEX SPEED CONTROLLER
The speed controller is located in the lower left corner of the main electrical panel. This
unit controls the width index motor speeds (fast, slow, up and down). This unit is not
serviceable. The speed controller is programmed at the factory with the right parameters for
your magnum. If you should have any problems with the speed controller unit, a code will
be displayed. Look through the small window on the main electrical panel and record the
62
code for future reference. This code will help in finding a possible problem with your
magnum. After the code is recorded you can reset the speed controller by turning off the
main disconnect switch for 5 seconds. Below is a list of possible error codes for the speed
controller:
1. OC1 - OVER CURRENT SHUT DOWN (DURING ACCELERATION)
2. OC2 - OVER CURRENT SHUT DOWN (DURING CONSTANT SPEED)
3. OC3 - OVER CURRENT SHUTDOWN (DURING DECELERATION)
4. THM - CONTROLLER OVERHEATING OR MOTOR OVERLOAD
5. OLT - STALL PREVENTION
6. UV - INSUFFICIENT VOLTAGE WARNING (THIS ERROR IS SELF CORRECTING
OPERATION WILL RETURN WHEN THE CORRECT VOLTAGE IS RESTORED)
!
If a code is displayed other than the above, or if a code appears
repeatedly. Call NORFIELD SERVICE for assistance.
63
Problem
Beveled edge shows chatter marks
Beveled edge shows step at 11
inches from end of door
Possible Causes
Solutions
Cutterhead drive belt is loose.
Tighten belt.
Cutterhead is dull.
Replace with sharp cutter head
blades
Bearings in cutterhead mandrel are
worn out.
Replace mandrel or bearing.
Cutterhead is undersized.
Replace knives.
Cutterhead is too low
Raise cutterhead mandrel
Infeed bed is not parallel with
outfeed bed.
Contact factory for more
information.
Beveled edge is straight but door is
tapered after sizing
information.
Beveled edge is smooth but arched.
information.
Beveled edge show snipe
2” - 3” from the end of the door.
Main bar is stuck. Will not go up or
down.
Cutterhead is oversized
Replace knives
Cutterhead is too high.
Lower cutterhead mandrel
Infeed bed is not parallel with
outfeed bed.
Contact factory for suggestions
Obstruction in carriage assemblies.
Inspect entire carriage assemblies
for screws or other foreign material.
Sawdust between gear and gear
racks.
Clean sawdust out.
Tension adjusting idlers on
carriages need adjusting.
Adjust idler gears for smooth
movement of main bar.
The upper / lower limit switch was
triggered beyond normal.
Press the e-stop and pull out Estop. Press the fast button
momentarily in the opposite
direction that you want the main bar
to travel. Then push button for
correct direction.
64
Problem
Drill cycle will not start.
Possible Cause
Solutions
Door is not clamped.
Move door to proper stop and clamp
door.
Sawdust build up or other
obstruction under latch drill
preventing it from returning to
“home” position. When latch drill
fails to “bottom out”, the latch
sensor fails to activate locking out
drill cycle from starting.
Depress E-stop to turn off
electricity. Disconnect air. Remove
sawdust or other obstruction.
Position of the home sensor has
changed on the latch or lock drill
Reposition sensor so that when latch
or lock drills are retracted the
Lock drill return sensor has moved.
Reposition lock drill return sensor
Lock drill return sensor not
functioning.
Repair or replace.
Motor overloaded.
Push re-set button in electrical panel.
Feed rate is set too fast.
Adjust flow controls on lock drill
cylinder.
Lock drill drills all the way through
door but will not return.
Lock drill feeds part way through
the door and motor stops running.
Lock drill completed its cycle but
latch drill will not start.
Latch drill cycle is turned “OFF” on
control panel.
Turn switch to “ON”.
“HOME” sensor on lock drill is not
turning on.
Check adjustment of sensor position.
Latch drill power valve not
functioning.
Repair or replace.
Latch drill starts to feed but hesitates Low air pressure.
or stops completely as it is drilling
the door.
Dull drill bit.
65
90-100 PSI required.
Replace with sharp bit.
Problem
Possible Cause
Solutions
Latch drill return sensor not
operating.
Adjust sensor and check for sensor
input light on controller.
Slide shafts dirty.
Clean slide shafts as described in
preventative maintenance.
Slide shafts out of alignment.
electricity. Disconnect the air.
Loosen hex bolt at top of one side
slide shaft. Manually raise latch
drill assembly until it tops out.
Retighten hex bolt. If assembly has
been jarred it may be necessary to
loosen the hex bolts on both slide
shafts raise assembly and tighten
hex bolts. In this case you will need
to make sure your latch hole is still
centered.
Air pressure too low.
Air pressure must be maintained at
90 - 100 PSI.
Latch drill feeds but will not return.
Top return sensor on latch drill is
set too low.
Adjust sensor height.
Drill too short.
Replace drill bits. Bits that have
been sharpened to where they are
too short for 5” backset can still be
used for shorter backsets.
Slide shafts dirty.
Clean slide shafts as described in
preventative maintenance.
Slide shafts out of alignment.
electricity. Disconnect the air.
Loosen hex bolt at top of one side
slide shaft. Manually raise latch
drill assembly until it tops out.
Retighten hex bolt. If assembly has
been jarred it may be necessary to
loosen the hex bolts on both slide
shafts raise assembly and tighten
hex bolts. In this case you will need
to make sure your latch hole is still
centered.
Air pressure too low.
Air pressure must be maintained at
90 - 100 PSI.
Latch drill travel switch set in
“short” position on control panel.
Set switch to “long” position.
Latch drill will not bore completely
into lock bore for 5” backset.
66
Problem
Latch drill not centered in door.
Lock height is no longer correct.
Possible Cause
Clamp backup block is wrong
thickness.
Use good quality 3/4” thick particle
board for making backup blocks.
Missing or worn drill clamp pads.
Replace clamp pads.
Assembly has been jarred and is no
longer aligned.
See section 5 - 8 for alignment
procedure.
Door is not square.
Contact door manufacturer
Door stops have moved.
Loosen the locking screws and
reposition door stops.
Lock motor may have moved on its
base.
Realign lock drill to latch drill.
Door stops have moved.
Loosen stop assembly and readjust
door stops.
Jamb end stops have moved.
Loosen stop assembly and readjust
jamb stops.
Header clearance has changed.
Undercut does not match scale
readings.
Butt spacing has changed.
Butts will no longer fit into mortise
Mortise is deeper in the door in than
jamb.
Faceplate mortise is not centered.
Lock drill motor is consistently
tripping reset.
Solutions
See adjustment procedures in
Section 4.
One or more index blocks have
moved.
Reset blocks and mark with metal
scribe. We recommend you check
Router bit undersized.
Adjust stop bolts on side of router
base to compensate for sharpening
of router bits. CAUTION: If the
router bit is much under size the
hinge radius will not fit into the
mortise even when the stops are
adjusted to give the correct
Jamb is not up against the bottom of
the router carriage.
Raise the jamb.
Router carriage is not level when
mortising.
See adjustments in Section 5-16.
Top edge of door and the jamb rack
are not parallel.
Make sure the door edge is 2-1/2”
above the main bar at both ends of
the door.
Backup block is wrong thickness.
Use good quality 3/4” thick particle
board.
Missing or worn drill clamp pads.
Replace clamp pads.
Template holder out of adjustment.
See Section 5-12.
Low line voltage at motor.
Check voltage at motor.
Motor drawing excess amperage.
Repair or replace motor.
Plunge speed is too fast.
Slow plunge speed.
Dull bit.
Replace knives in bit.
67
Problem
Possible Cause
Solutions
Latch drill only will not start.
Reset tripped.
Push reset button.
Faceplate mortise not centered on
latch bore.
Alignment cone cylinder out of
adjustment.
Adjust cylinder position. See
Section 5 - 12.
Defective contact block.
Replace.
Defective relay coil.
Replace.
Tripped or broken overload relay.
Reset or replace.
Low voltage at motor.
Check voltage at motor.
Motor drawing excess amperage.
Plunge speed too fast.
Slow plunge speed.
Latch/lock “stop” pushbutton is not
making contact.
Replace contact block.
Switch contacts of motor are not
making contact.
Repair or replace the contacts.
E-stop button is depressed.
Check E-stop.
Defective E-stop contact block.
Circuit breaker tripped
Check and reset breaker
3 phase motors will not start.
Latch drill motor consistently
tripping overload relay.
Latch and lock motors start but will
not run or run intermittently.
No electrical functions operating at
controller.
Three phase motors tripping resets at Low voltage electrical service.
random.
Have supply voltage checked by
utility company.
None of the single phase motors will
run.
Reset breaker.
Powerfeed motor (s) will not run.
Powerfeed fuse is blown.
Replace fuse
Powerfeed switch is not making
contact.
Repair or replace switch contact
block.
Powerfeed motor (s) are burned out.
Repair or replace motor (s).
Powerfeed speed control defective.
Repair or replace speed control.
Pushbutton switch is not making
contact.
Motor is burned out.
Defective relay.
Repair or replace relay.
Faceplate router switch is not
making contact.
Repair or replace switch.
Faceplate router is defective
Replace router head
Reset or replace
Defective relay.
Repair or replace relay
Mercury switch not making contact.
Readjust or replace mercury switch.
Switch in router head not making
contact.
Replace switch in router head.
Width index motor will not run.
Faceplate router motor will not run.
Butt router automatic start will not
run.
68
Phone: 800-824-6242
Web: www.norfield.com
Parts Replacement Policy
The following will explain Norfield Industries policy for handling warranty claims. Our "Limited
Warranty" is stated below for your reference.
Our warranty covers the replacement of defective parts; however, the labor to replace the parts on the
machine is not included.
Upon notification of a warranty claim, Norfield will either refer the customer to a regional repair facility
or replacement parts will be shipped from the factory. Parts shipped from the factory will be invoiced to
the customer's account until the warranty claim is verified. To obtain verification, the defective parts must
be returned to Norfield within thirty (30) days from the date of the claim for inspection. Before returning
the defective parts, please contact Norfield to obtain a "Return Material Authorization Number".
All parts manufactured by Norfield and found to be defective will be given appropriate credit. All parts
not manufactured by Norfield are covered by their respective manufacturer's warranty and will be sent to
the original manufacturer for credit. When, and if, credit is issued to Norfield, we will in turn issue credit
to your account.
Limited Warranty
Norfield warrants any and all such parts manufactured by them against defects in material or
workmanship for a period of one-year from date of purchase. Norfield's liability under this warranty shall
be limited to replacing free of charge, F.O.B. Chico, California, any parts proved to be defective within
the period of the warranty. Norfield will not be responsible for transportation charges or consequential
damages.
Norfield will not in any case or under any circumstances be liable or responsible for any injuries to
persons or property suffered as a result of the use or operation of the machine, or losses or costs resulting
from any period of non-operation for any reason.
Parts which are claimed to be defective, but show tangible evidence of abuse or negligence will not be
replace on a no-charge basis.
Norfield reserves the right, at its own discretion without notice and without making similar changes in
machinery previously manufactured, to make changes in material, design, finish and/or specifications.
Any changes, alteration or installation of additional equipment to this machine without first obtaining
written consent from Norfield may void this warranty. Determination of the effect of any alteration on this
warranty is left to the discretion of Norfield.
Norfield makes no written or implied warranty with respect to electrical equipment, including motors or
other purchased components used in the manufacture of the machine. All such parts are covered by their
respective manufacturer's warranty. We do endeavor, at all times, to purchase only those components
manufactured by responsible manufacturers which we have found to be reputable in their handling or
warranties.
Norfield expressly disclaim any warranty, expressed or implied, other than those which are expressly
made in this limited warranty.

Magnum - Norfield

Transcription

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