Twill Waters Run Deep
Transcription
Twill Waters Run Deep
Twill Waters Run Deep a guild exhibit by Weaving Indiana ©2005, Indianapolis, Indiana Twill! Traditionally simple and potentially intricate. The perfect choice for a group project that satisfies both the beginning and the seasoned weaver. Twill has been a weaver's choice for thousands of years. It is basic and versatile, simple yet challenging. It has been used in fabric, baskets, grass matts and rugs. So much to learn! For our waterfall of twills, we experimented with color, fiber and sett using any twill threading we desired. We created narrow bands to display in the exhibit, after which we will cut up into samples for a sample book containing all the patterns and information for each participant. The entire guild benefits from the electronic file (PDF) of the same information added to our growing electronic library. We are a new guild (this is only our 3rd year) and we learned a lot about each other as we met about the project and learned about twill, helping each other to choose patterns, fiber and to warp looms, making new friends along the way. We used 4-harness patterns and 20-harness patterns. This books provides all that information, including fiber, sett, drawdowns, photos of the finished fabrics and comments from each weaver. Enjoy it — we certainly did! Weaving Indiana Weaving Indiana began just 3 years ago from a small group of experienced weavers with 2 goals in mind — encourage and promote weaving to beginning weavers and to meet on weekends to include members who work full-time. The result has been a group of very energetic and motivated weavers, sharing and learning and growing in numbers each month! We mentor beginners. We are teachers, artists, scientists, lawyers and business professionals. We are weavers who have been weaving for over 40 years and we are beginners with simply a passion to learn. In the beginning, our more experienced weavers shared their knowledge by exploring the basic weave structures in detail, with examples and projects to promote understanding and creativity. Now, our inexperienced weavers are exploring weave structures and then presenting their new knowledge to the rest of the group. We focus on technology. We send our monthly newsletter out through the Internet as a PDF. No postage or paper costs and no limit to the number of pages. Every issue contains color photos of our meetings and woven samples. We maintain a web site to benefit all the weavers in the state, as well as across the country. A listing of current fiber events and shows greet the visitor at www.indianaweavers.org. Our web site contains information about most of the weaving guilds in Indiana. Dozens of gently used looms have found new homes because of the free classified ads selling personal looms, equipment and yarns. Also found are links to Indiana weaving shops and suppliers. Many of our members use weaving software to create patterns or control their new dobby looms. We use the Internet to learn about weaving from everywhere in the world and to gain inspiration and communicate with each other. We have great fun as we learn and share together, keeping the craft of weaving alive. We are Weaving Indiana! Weaving Indiana dedicates this project and book to Eleanor Best, whose dedication to weaving, teaching and preservation of weaving has been an inspiration to us all. Thank you, Eleanor. 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project 2005 Midwest Weavers Conference Guild Exhibit Honorable Mention and People's Choice Award Weaving Indiana used the 2005 Midwest Weavers Conference Guild Exhibit as a goal for this project on Twill. With so many new weavers, it was an opportunity to introduce them to the fun and experience of the conference even if they could not attend. Nineteen guild members wove twill bands. Many members helped plan the display and create a "dress rehearsal" of the booth setup. The weavers who attended the conference (front the left: Kris Seel, Tina Hilton, Linda Adamson, Mary Ann Carpenter, Mindy McCain, and Carrie May) set up the display just after they arrived at Lakeland College in Wisconsin. It was well worth the effort. Our guild exhibit won the People's Choice Award, as well as a hard-fought Honorable Mention (27 points out of 30) against 11 other wonderful guild exhibits. 4 Twill Waters Run Deep Weavers and their Twills Linda Adamson Fish at Sea Wooly Fish at Sea Sue Parker Bassett Windy Day at Corner Pond Eleanor Best Curvedcorr Mary Burks Plain/Twill Bands Alice Burr Renegade Ripple Mary Ann Carpenter Little Ripples Linda Decker Water Dawn Mary Alice Donceel Caribbean Coast I Caribbean Coast II Twill Basket Janet Higbie Janet Twill Tina Hilton Blue Ripples Nina Kennedy Castles and Moats! Azure Gail Kincaid Tumbling Mountain River Harry Kuhn Ripples in Moonlight Carrie May Water Ripples Creek Bottom Currents Daylight Reflections Mindy McCain Braided River Running Ripples Patricia Mink Pacific Wave Jane Pidgeon Tobago Moonlight Patty Ray Cut Crystal Creek Beginner's Blues Kris Seel Rays of Sunshine Shadow Weave Turtle 5 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Twill Basics Next to plain (tabby) weave, twill is the most common of weave structures. Warp and weft floats create the fabric, requiring more than 2 harnesses. Blue jean fabric (denim) is a 2/1 twill, with warp and weft floating over 2 threads and under one, and needs only 3 harnesses to produce. More common are the 2/2 and 3/1 twills, requiring 4 harnesses and creating fabrics that are the same on front and back (2/2) or exact opposites (3/1 weft faced or 1/3 warp faced). Twill Progression 1 4 2 3 A straight twill is threaded from the first harness through to the last harness, 1-2-3-4. A point twill is threaded from the first harness through to the last harness and back again, 1-2-3-4-3-2-1. On a loom with more than 4 harnesses, it can but need not include all harnesses. Other twill threadings can be created by combining harnesses as desired, as long as the sequences follow the twill progression circle for at least three steps. The biggest challenge in weaving twill is creating a good selvedge (floating warps are usually needed) and maintaining an even beat. A lot has been written about twill over the years... If anybody were to ask, "Which of all the weaves is the most useful?" the answer would unhesitatingly be "Twill." - Mary Meigs Atwater, The Shuttle-Craft Book of American Handweaving Origin of word –twill – similar in sound to the French word for cloth, toile, which is pronounced twahl, it appeared in Middle English as twyll or twile. It’s roots, however, are thought to lie with the Anglo-Saxon word for two or twice, perhaps meaning two lines or wales or cords. - Jean Scorgie, Weaver's Craft Of all the weave structures, twill is the most versatile. It can produce more designs, blend colors and fibers in more ways, and produce more types of fabrics- from gossamer scarves to sturdy rugs- than any other interlacement! - Madelyn van der Hoogt, Twill Thrills Twill takes many forms.... Diagonals are its trademark. The stairstep pattern it takes gently progresses sideways, one step at a time, while never completely breaking off from the previous steps. Each step always has at least one thread in common with the previous step. - Helen Bress, The Weaving Book Next to the plain texture, tweeling is the most extensive in its applications to every branch of cloth manufacture; it not only serves as a ground on which other decorations are woven, but it forms , purely on its own principles, some of the most beautiful patterns which can be produced in the art of weaving. - John Murphy, 1827, as quoted by Marguerite Porter Davison in A Handweaver's Pattern Book 6 Twill Waters Run Deep Threadings 4 4 3 4 3 2 3 2 1 Straight Twill 2 1 1 4 4 3 3 2 3 2 1 3 2 Point Twill 2 1 4 4 3 4 3 2 2 1 3 Broken Twill 2 1 1 Tie-ups 3 Harness Tieups 3 3 2 3 2 1 3 2 1 2 1 1 3 3 3 2 2 or 2 1 1 1 2/1 and 1/2 twill tie-up (3 harness twill cannot produce a plain weave/tabby) 4 Harness tabby 4 4 3 4 3 2 3 2 1 2 1 1 4 4 3 3 2 2 1 1 4 3 2/2 twill tie-up 2 1 tabby 4 4 3 4 3 2 3 2 1 2 1 1 4 4 4 3 3 3 2 2 2 1 1 1 4 3 3/1 twill tie-up 2 1 tabby 4 4 3 2 1 4 3 2 1 4 3 3 2 1 4 3 2 2 1 1 7 1/3 twill tie-up 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Fish at Sea by Linda Adamson PATTERN NAME 8 harness Broken/Reverse Twill SOURCE Weaves - A Design Handbook by Eleanor Best, page 125 EQUIPMENT Loom Louet Octado dobby Shuttle Schacht and Glimakra boat shuttles WARP yarn fiber Euroflax Linen yarn size and color 14/2 in aqua sett 20 epi width in reed 10” WEFT yarn fiber Euroflax linen and cottolin yarn size and color 14/2 , fish colors are cottolin DIMENSIONS Off loom 9.75" x 75.75" After washing 9" x 72" Washing method hand washed, laid flat to dry, ironed before fully dry. Shrinkage 8% in width and 5% in length WEAVER COMMENTS I like the look of linen and feel that it would make nice table runners. The floats are a bit long, but I felt the pattern would not show up as well with a finer epi. Since linen can fray, I had to be gentle dressing the loom. I spritzed the tie-on knots with water to set them before starting to weave. 8 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling pegplan BACK 9 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Wooly Fish at Sea by Linda Adamson PATTERN NAME 8 harness Broken/Reverse Twill SOURCE Weaves - A Design Handbook by Eleanor Best, page 125 EQUIPMENT Loom Louet Octado dobby Shuttle Schacht and Glimakra boat shuttles WARP yarn fiber Harrisville Shetland wool yarn size and color 2-ply in grey-green sett 12 epi width in reed 10” WEFT yarn fiber Harrisville Shetland wool yarn size and color 2-ply in dark green with accent fish colors DIMENSIONS Off loom 9" x 76" After washing 7.5" x 72" Washing method hand wash and dry Shrinkage 16% in width, 5% in length WEAVER COMMENTS This is the same pattern as Fish at Sea in linen to demonstrate the large floats at fewer epi. Since it was wool, it shrank a lot but fluffed up and melded together and made a nice scarf. Quite a surprise! 10 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling pegplan BACK 11 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Windy Day at Corner Pond by Sue Parker Bassett PATTERN NAME 8-harness Undulating Twill SOURCE Mastering Weave Structures by Sharon Alderman, page 60 EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Macomber Shuttle 11" Louet boat shuttle and 11" Schacht boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber unmercerized cotton yarn size and color 8/2 in white sett 24 epi width in reed 10.125" WEFT yarn fiber unmercerized cotton and blue silk noil yarn size and color 8/2 in navy DIMENSIONS Off loom 9.875" x 108" After washing 8.25" x 95" Washing method machine wash warm gentle, machine dry delicate Shrinkage 16% in width and 12% in length WEAVER COMMENTS The pattern looked better, more “waterlike” after finishing. A greater contrast in the 2 weft colors might have added more interest. The silk noil did give a bit of texture. I learned about tying back heddles, to “see” pattern changes, to catch errors while weaving and to reengineer the shaft/ lamm connection. 12 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 13 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Curvedcorr by Eleanor Best PATTERN NAME 20 harness Point Twill SOURCE original EQUIPMENT Loom 32-harness Megado electronic dobby Shuttle 11" slim Schacht WARP yarn fiber Merino wool yarn size and color 24/2 in two shades of blue sett 30 epi in a 30 dent reed width in reed 8” WEFT yarn fiber cultivated silk yarn size and color 20/2 in natural DIMENSIONS Off loom 7+" After washing 7+" Washing method steam pressed only Shrinkage 14 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 15 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Plain/Twill Bands by Mary Burks PATTERN NAME Plain weave and twill SOURCE traditional EQUIPMENT Loom 4-harness Macomber Shuttle boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber viscose, rayon/cotton, cotton yarn size and color 12/2 cotton and novelty in blues and purples sett 16 epi width in reed 10” WEFT yarn fiber rayon/cotton, viscose yarn size and color novelty variegated in blues and purples DIMENSIONS Off loom 9.5" x 80" After washing 9.25" x 72" long Washing method handwash with soap and hot water, line dry Shrinkage 10% in length WEAVER COMMENTS This piece has a great hand and beautiful color harmonies. I like using plain weave with a 2/2 twill to create more interest for me while I'm weaving and I think it adds visual interest for the piece as well. 16 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 17 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Renegade Ripple by Alice Burr PATTERN NAME 6 harness Straight Twill SOURCE Dictionary of Weaves, page 27 EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Baby Wolf Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in peacock and mineral blue sett 20 epi width in reed 12” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in light blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 10.75" x 84.5" After washing 10.25" x 76" Washing method hand washed in Woolite, machine dried. Steam iron. Shrinkage 5% in width and 10% in length WEAVER COMMENTS I called this piece "Renegade Ripples" because the ripples that were so enticing in the drawdown and looked so appealing on the loom were ornery and disappeared when the fabric was washed. The creping obliterated the petal-like outlines that gave the appearance of rippling. The resulting fabric has great texture, but does not exhibit the ripples that had attracted me to the pattern. 18 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 19 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Little Ripples by Mary Ann Carpenter PATTERN NAME 16 harness Point Twill SOURCE unknown EQUIPMENT Loom AVL 36” 16-harness Dobby Shuttle AVL end-feed shuttle WARP yarn fiber 100% unmercerized cotton yarn size and color natural colors, random warp sett 30 epi width in reed 20” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in Mineral (UKI) DIMENSIONS Off loom 19” x 34” After washing 17.5” x 29” Washing method machine wash hot, machine dry warm Shrinkage 8.5% in width, 17% in length WEAVER COMMENTS I have been using 16H point twill for a long time (weaving yardage in the beginning and now household linens). This strip is just an extension of that weaving. With a sectional beam it is easy to do: wind on to the back beam and tie on to the already threaded up warp yarns that are thru the heddles and the reed. No threading errors that way. 20 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling pegplan BACK 21 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Watery Dawn by Linda Decker PATTERN NAME 6 harness Twill SOURCE original design using WeaveMaker EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Baby Wolf with electronic dobby Shuttle 11" boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber rayon yarn size and color 8/4 in pale blue, pale pink, marbled pink, blue and gray sett 16 epi width in reed 11.5” WEFT yarn fiber rayon yarn size and color same as warp DIMENSIONS Off loom 10.5" wide After washing 10" wide Washing method machine wash gentle, machine dry damp Shrinkage 5% in width WEAVER COMMENTS I had originally planned to weave this as a stripe but didn't like the weft color. The piece as woven is more representative of “watery dawn”, and is a plaid. The threading lends an illusion of curve to the plaid, which I think would be useful in suiting, as would the weight and hand of the fabric. This was my first project on my electronic dobby loom! 22 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 23 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Caribbean Coast I by Mary Alice Donceel PATTERN NAME 4 harness Twill SOURCE Weaver's Craft, Issue #13, page 3 EQUIPMENT Loom 4-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle 11" boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 in 5 colors, natural to turquoise to dark grey sett 24 epi width in reed 11.625” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 in Caribbean blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 11" x 108" After washing 10.125" x 103" Washing method machine wash normal, machine dry, iron on cotton setting Shrinkage 8% in width, 4% in length WEAVER COMMENTS As a new weaver, I selected the yarns and then tried many different setts and treadlings before I was happy with it. I tried to capture the varying shades of the water around the islands that you see when flying over the Caribbean. I was surprised how different the pattern looked when the weft color crossed over the dark and the light warp. 24 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 25 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Caribbean Coast II by Mary Alice Donceel PATTERN NAME 4 harness Broken Twill SOURCE Weaver's Craft, Issue #13, page 3 EQUIPMENT Loom 4-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle 11" boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 in 5 colors, natural to turquoise to dark grey sett 24 epi width in reed 11.625” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 in Caribbean blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 11" x 108" After washing 10.125" x 103" Washing method machine wash normal, machine dry, iron on cotton setting Shrinkage 8% in width, 4% in length WEAVER COMMENTS This is the same threading as Caribbean Coast I but with a different treadling. To arrange the colors, I played with wrapping the yarns around a small wooden ruler, interleaving the different colors to simulate what I would warp. I was surprised how different the twill patterns looked when compared to a single color warp. 26 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 27 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Janet Twill by Janet Higbie PATTERN NAME 4 harness Twill SOURCE original EQUIPMENT Loom 4-harness table loom Shuttle stick shuttle WARP yarn fiber linen? yarn size and color in yellow sett 24 epi in a 12 dent reed width in reed 6.5” WEFT yarn fiber linen? yarn size and color in coral DIMENSIONS Off loom 6.5" x 76" After washing 6" x 70.5" Washing method machine wash hot, air dry Shrinkage 7% WEAVER COMMENTS The thread came from a deceased friend and I think it is linen. This is my first attempt at weaving! 28 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling pegplan BACK 29 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Blue Ripples by Tina Hilton PATTERN NAME 8 harness Point Twill SOURCE A Weaver's Book of 8-shaft Patterns, by Strickler, page 90 EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle LeClerc boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in baby blue sett 22 epi width in reed 9.5” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in cobalt blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 9.5" x 100" long After washing 9" x 92" Washing method machine wash gentle, warm, ironed to dry Shrinkage 8% WEAVER COMMENTS This twill was easier than many for me to keep an even beat, although I had to remember to "keep it light" every time I would start weaving again. This piece was very nice to weave, and I kept my thoughts on the gentle waves I saw on the beach in the Grand Caymans. 30 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 31 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Castles and Moats! by Nina Kennedy PATTERN NAME 8 harness Point Twill SOURCE original design using WeaveMaker EQUIPMENT Loom Louet Octado (8-harness electronic dobby) Shuttle Schacht end-feed shuttle WARP yarn fiber hand-dyed Tencel yarn size and color 10/2 variegated blues and greens sett 24 epi width in reed 7.25” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in light blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 6.75" x 63.5" After washing 6.75" x 63" Washing method hand washed, dried flat, light steam iron Shrinkage almost none WEAVER COMMENTS I had planned to use a Tencel weft but the color was not good, so I ordered another color. In the meantime, I wove this sample with 5/2 perle cotton weft. The pattern was one I made with Weavemaker weaving software and the front and back are almost identical. 32 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling pegplan BACK 33 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Azure by Nina Kennedy PATTERN NAME 8 harness Point Twill SOURCE original design using WeaveMaker EQUIPMENT Loom Louet Octado (8-harness electronic dobby) Shuttle small boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber hand-dyed Tencel yarn size and color 10/2 variegated blues sett 24 epi width in reed 7.25” WEFT yarn fiber Tencel yarn size and color 8/2 in azure DIMENSIONS Off loom 7.25" x 65" After washing 7" x 62" Washing method hand washed, dried flat, light steam iron Shrinkage very little — 4% WEAVER COMMENTS This is the same threading and treadling as my other sample, Castles and Moats, except I used Tencel as the weft (instead of perle cotton). Although the design does not show up very much, I like the overall color and drape of this sample better. 34 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling pegplan BACK 35 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Tumbling Mountain River by Gail Kincaid PATTERN NAME 4 harness Point Twill SOURCE traditional EQUIPMENT Loom 4-harness Norwood Shuttle Schacht end-feed shuttle WARP yarn fiber Alpaca yarn size and color handspun worsted weight sett 12 epi width in reed 12” WEFT yarn fiber Alpaca yarn size and color handspun worsted weight, dyed purple DIMENSIONS Off loom 9.5" x 72" After washing 8.5" x 65" Washing method machine wash gentle, cold water with Orvus paste Shrinkage 29% in width, 10% in width WEAVER COMMENTS The Alpaca who provided this fiber lives in Noblesville, Indiana, and is named Sugarplum. This 2/2 twill is identical on front and back. 36 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 37 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Ripples in Moonlight by Harry Kuhn PATTERN NAME 8 harness Undulating Twill SOURCE traditional EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle Schacht end-feed WARP yarn fiber Lily 6-strand cotton floss yarn size and color 6-strand floss in light blue, medium blue and dark blue sett 20 epi in a 10 dent reed width in reed 7.25” WEFT yarn fiber Lily 6-strand cotton floss yarn size and color 6-strand cotton floss in medium blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 6.5" wide After washing 6.25" wide Washing method hand washed in cold water, ironing was needed Shrinkage 4% total WEAVER COMMENTS Originally, I had it sett at 15 epi but found that the weft was beating in too much. I resleyed the warp to 20 epi and was better able to achieve a balanced weave. 38 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 39 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Creek Bottom Currents by Carrie May PATTERN NAME Swarthmore Twill SOURCE A Handweaver's Pattern Book by Davison, page 30 EQUIPMENT Loom Schacht Wolf Pup Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in soldier blue, royal blue and natural sett 18 epi width in reed 9.75” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in mineral blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 8.5" x 90.25" After washing 8.125" x 80" Washing method machine wash and dry, hot iron Shrinkage 5% width and 12% length WEAVER COMMENTS This began as an undulating twill but the floats were too long. So I rethreaded it into the swathmore twill and am much happier with it. It reminds me of the water currents at the bottom of a creek bed. 40 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 41 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Daylight Reflections by Carrie May PATTERN NAME 2 block 8-harness twill SOURCE traditional EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 handpainted/dyed in blues, yellow, greens and reds sett 30 epi width in reed 13” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 in cobalt blue DIMENSIONS Off loom After washing Washing method machine washed and dried, steam pressed on cotton setting Shrinkage about 10% WEAVER COMMENTS I hand-dyed the warp in a guild workshop. I painted 5 different narrow warps and chose a progression of colors as if going from sunrise to sunset on water. I chose the two block twill pattern because I like it, but at first thought it looked too much like blocks. After I wove it, I liked it because of the bright and vibrant colors and the nice weight yarn and hand of the fabric. 42 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 43 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Water Ripples by Carrie May PATTERN NAME Advancing Wall of Troy SOURCE Complex Weavers Greatest Hits, Bonnie Inouye, page 45 EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle Schacht boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in mint, mineral and cactus sett 18 epi width in reed 10” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in royal blue DIMENSIONS Off loom After washing 7.75" x 91.25" Washing method machine wash gentle, hang dry, steam pressed Shrinkage WEAVER COMMENTS As I wove this band, my rows looked uneven, like my tension was off, the rows were wavy. The tension was fine, it was just that there are sections in the warp being skipped over as I wove due to the pattern. I lightened up my beat, not packing the weft, and just let the pattern happen. 44 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 45 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Braided River by Mindy McCain PATTERN NAME 8 harness plaited twill SOURCE A Weaver's Book of 8-shaft Patterns (Friends of Handwoven) EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle Schacht end-feed WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in greys, greens and medium blue sett 16 epi width in reed 9.25” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 in black DIMENSIONS Off loom 8" x 98" After washing 7.375" x 91.5" Washing method machine wash and dry, lightly pressed Shrinkage 8% width, 7% length (more shrinkage in width than expected) WEAVER COMMENTS This is the same threading and EPI as "Running Ripples" but with finer yarn and it creates a much nicer fabric weight. I wove the pattern with the weft-faced side up to make it easier to lift the harnesses, but I consider that warp-faced side the front. I also treadled it "walking style" (left, right, left, right) to make it easier. 46 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 47 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Running Ripples by Mindy McCain PATTERN NAME 8 harness plaited Twill SOURCE A Weaver's Book of 8-shaft Patterns (Friends of Handwoven) EQUIPMENT Loom 8-harness Schacht Mighty Wolf Shuttle Schacht end-feed WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 3/2 in medium blue, light blue and white sett 16 epi width in reed 9.25” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 3/2 in light blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 8.25" x 84" After washing 7.5" x 78" Washing method machine wash and dry, light iron Shrinkage 12% in width and 7% in length WEAVER COMMENTS I really like the effect that the change in warp color creates on the front of the fabric, like little streamlets. The beat was challenging because the adjacent sheds 3 - 4 and 7 -8 were similar and the wefts settled closer together than in the other adjacent sheds. 48 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 49 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Pacific Wave by Patricia Mink PATTERN NAME 4 harness Stepped Twill SOURCE unknown EQUIPMENT Loom Schacht Wolf Pup Shuttle Boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber Cottolin (blend of cotton and linen) yarn size and color 22/2 in royal blue sett 24 epi width in reed 8.25” WEFT yarn fiber Cottolin yarn size and color 22/2 in light blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 7.75" wide After washing 6.75" wide Washing method vigorously hand wash very warm, tumble to almost dry, iron Shrinkage 4% in width WEAVER COMMENTS I have been weaving for 30 years and I do a lot of overshot. This is my first experience with twill and I enjoyed it! 50 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 51 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Tobago Moonlight by Jane Pidgeon PATTERN NAME 16-harness Point Twill SOURCE The Coverlet Book by Helene Bress, page 114 EQUIPMENT Loom 16-harness J-Made Shuttle boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 5/2 and 10/2 in black, green, blue and purple sett 15 epi width in reed 12.5” WEFT yarn fiber Bucilla Twinkle Glacé (estron, banlon and metallic) yarn size and color light blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 11.5" wide After washing 10" wide Washing method hand washed, lay flat to dry, light ironing Shrinkage 13% in width WEAVER COMMENTS While watching the moon rise over the ocean, full and brilliantly white, its reflection on the dark water glittering like diamonds, I wondered how to transfer that image to my twill band. It had to sparkle! I searched for a diamond pattern that used all 16 harnesses of my loom. A friend gave me a bag of yarn that she couldn't use and it was just what I needed. 52 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 53 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Beginner's Blues by Patty Ray PATTERN NAME 8 harness Block Twill SOURCE Handwoven Scarves, page 30 EQUIPMENT Loom Schacht Baby Wolf Shuttle Schacht end-feed WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 white and blue blocks alternating across sett 30 epi, woven at 18 ppi width in reed 12” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 10/2 in dark blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 11.25" x 95" After washing 10.675" x 86" Washing method machine wash gentle, warm, lightly ironed Shrinkage 6% in width, 9% in length WEAVER COMMENTS I had the "blues" because of a real fear of broken threads and threading errors. This, and the experimentation I did with the weft color, really taught me the value of having sufficient warp to experiment with. After threading, I though I would never use anything with that fine a thread again, but after feeling the drape and seeing how it looked at the end, I was converted! 54 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 55 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Cut Crystal Creek by Patty Ray PATTERN NAME 4 harness Point Twill SOURCE based on Handwoven Mar/Apr 1983 hand towel project EQUIPMENT Loom Schacht Baby Wolf Shuttle Schacht end-feed WARP yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 3/2 in Willow, Mosstone and Blue sett 13 epi width in reed 11” WEFT yarn fiber mercerized cotton yarn size and color 3/2 in Blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 9.875" x 69" After washing 9.25" x 69" Washing method handwash, tumble dry damp, lay flat to finish drying Shrinkage 7% in width WEAVER COMMENTS As a beginning weaver, all aspects of weaving have been deeply satisfying--I love the sense of order and the repetitive aspect of it. 56 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 57 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Rays of Sunshine by Kris Seel PATTERN NAME 8 harness Broken Twill SOURCE unknown EQUIPMENT Loom 60" 8-harness Macomber Shuttle boat shuttle WARP yarn fiber Silk City Martinique (viscose, cotton and linen) yarn size and color hand-spaced-dyed in yellows, blues and greens sett 15 epi width in reed 12” WEFT yarn fiber unmercerized cotton yarn size and color 8/2 blue DIMENSIONS Off loom 10.5" x 103" After washing 9.5" x 98" Washing method machine washed, dried flat, light iron Shrinkage 14% WEAVER COMMENTS It was beautiful while weaving but I was disappointed after I took it off the loom. It became "striped" but was more random while weaving. I learned how to dye next time—more elongated rather than cross-wise. I will cut it and make something so the stripes don't appear. 58 Twill Waters Run Deep Threading, Tie-up, Treadling BACK 59 FRONT 2005 Weaving Indiana Guild Project Twill Basket by Mary Alice Donceel Mary Alice says... My interest in twills was sparked by the program on twills at the Weaving Indiana Guild I had recently joined, and the planning of their project for the Waves of Weaving conference. While taking my second basket weaving class, I got into a discussion with the instructor about weaving baskets in twills. She showed me a book of all sorts of beautiful baskets done in twills. I finally gathered up the nerve to try a basket on my own without attending a class. Margaret Harness, owner of Willowe’s Basketry in Greenfield, IN, helped me select a pattern that would give the appearance of a bucket, thinking that it might go well as part of our display. Starting with Margaret’s Apple Gathering basket pattern, I modified it to increase the number of stakes so that the pattern would work out for each round in a 1-2 twill. I was pleased with my accomplishment of doing this on my own, and now have a hand woven basket to hold rovings next to my spinning wheel. 60 Twill Waters Run Deep Shadow Weave Turtle by Kris Seel Shadow Weave is a form of twill using alternating colors across the warp and weft, giving intricate patterns with the color-and-weave effect. This fabric was inspired by a guild meeting about this weave structure. The turtle is woven with Karded Cotton in 8/2 green and 10/2 brown, sett at 24 epi. The sewing pattern for the turtle was from Weaving a Zoo by Amy Preckshot. Kris LOVES turtles and has been to South Carolina with her best friend to help save the sea turtles as they crawl to the sea. They had to fend off foxes and seagulls. 61