January/February 2016 issue

DINING | FORTUNATO
The character and depth of
Roanoke dining has taken
a considerable step forward
in this bold, inventive
downtown restaurant.
EMBRACING WINTER
with
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Y JES
B
• PHO
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Cold-weather warmth
Celebrate the dark days of winter with the Fortunato
version of squid ink Pasta al Nero di Sepia.
54 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
THEROANOKER.COM
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DEEP WINTER. Snow, wind, and the post-holiday/
resolution-battles blues of January. This is the season
when many restaurants slow down, with fewer people
willing to brave the cold for a night out. But this is the
season to embrace and create community, to discover
hygge—starting with Fortunato, a new downtown Italian restaurant masterminded by the owners (plus a new
face!) of Lucky.
Hygge: (pronounced “hoo-ga”) is a Danish word
loosely translating to “coziness.” More complex than
just a cozy feeling, it means to “live in the moment” or
“create warmth and make connections with others and
yourself.” It’s touted as the secret to winter happiness
by the Danes. In its essence, hygge is about families and
friends getting together to share a meal, a glass of wine,
and good conversation—creating intimacy in the heart
of a dark, cold winter.
Since opening in September, Fortunato, an Italian
restaurant in downtown Roanoke featuring mostly Central and Northern Italian dishes, has emanated all that
creates hygge. Upon entering the glass-fronted restaurant located on the ground floor of the century-old
Shenandoah Building, guests are greeted by an open
kitchen graced with a cured leg of Edwards ham, a pizzaiolo deftly managing the Italian wood burning oven,
and sweeping, oversized paintings. Gold wallpaper, dark
wood tables built from salvaged wood from Old Crow
Distillery, warm large-format, red-light fixtures and
Toobz Muir’s van door wolf painting lend an incredibly cosmopolitan air to the dining space.
This is the restaurant Roanoke has been waiting for.
Every element from the silverware (perfectly weighted)
to the tiny, jam-jar wine glasses to the refinished original
terrazzo floors is on-point thanks to the design work of
co-owner Jake Zuckerman.
The ownership and management of Fortunato is
like a perfectly crafted puzzle whose pieces include Jeff
Farmer, a chef who has crafted an intensely unique
menu of Italian dishes, to Hunter Johnson, a mixoloJANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 | 55
Join the club
Lucky’s sardine fan club has a new home at
Fortunato, and these sardines with a pesto twist are
a reminder that summer is coming soon enough.
floral options like the Apollonia with its rose hip, lavender and hibiscus infused vodka bring some brightness
to dark winter months. Given that Italy is not known
for its cocktail culture, Johnson deftly improvises with
flavors and truly captures what an evening in Italy might
taste, smell, and look like—all in one glass.
Moving on to the meal itself, you’d be remiss to skip
the home-cured salumi—ranging from Edward’s Surryano Ham (which with a blind taste test might as well be
from Spain given its incredibly well-balanced tang and
fat) to house-made nduja (soft and spicy—perfect on
some bread) to a peppery salami piedmontese. There’s
something for everyone on the charcuterie board, especially if you mix in a few Italian cheeses. Pair with
some cured olives and a glass of sparkling wine from the
almost-all-Italian wine list, and you’re set for a welcome
start to your meal.
On the small plates side of things (the antipasti), the
Polpetta Agnello is a must-order dish. While it’s hard
to proclaim any one dish the dish of Fortunato, this
simple, yet rich and complex lamb meatball is one of
the memorable ones. Maybe it’s because we can imagine
the time and the care that goes into a successful meatball
and red sauce—hours in a kitchen on a Sunday afternoon, a grandmother’s recipe, family—but even more
Inside Fortunato
Left: The charcuterie board
at Fortunato features local
Virginia meats like Border
Springs’ Lamb Ham.
Right: Co-owners Hunter
Johnson and Jake
Zuckerman felt it was time
to try a concept beyond
their successful Lucky
restaurant.
gist whose drinks have elevated the Roanoke craft cocktail scene to epic proportions, to JP Powell, a hospitality
guru with strong management skills, and Jake Zuckerman, whose eye for design and whose background
in real estate development helped build the Fortunato
experience.
After running the extraordinarily successful Lucky
Restaurant on Kirk Ave (opened in 2010), the original
three decided that, with the help of Jake, it was time to
try their hand at something new in town. After being
approached for several years by developers, the team pursued a relationship with Bill Chapman (also responsible
for Beamers 25), whose background as a restaurateur and
developer aligned with their vision.
“If we didn’t do it, someone else would have,” Johnson explains when describing how Roanoke is becoming
a hot spot for developers and restaurateurs. His implication? If he and the other owners didn’t decide to open
another top-notch restaurant in Roanoke, a chef from
Richmond or New York or Atlanta would have. Just take
Zuckerman’s reasons for moving from bustling Brooklyn
to the Star City: “Coming to Roanoke, for me, was awesome because I think the city is growing and growing in
a cool and responsible way.” Right now was the right
58 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
time for Fortunato. Which makes us here in Roanoke
very lucky diners.
The menu at Fortunato is easy to navigate. Separated
into antipasti (appetizers), salumi & formaggi (meats
& cheeses), insalte (salads), primo (first course—pastas), secondo (second course—meat and fish), and pizze
(pizzas), as well as dolci (dessert), it’s easy to sample a
bit of everything. In the spirit of hygge, whether you
dine by yourself, with one other person, or with a large
group, the menu translates well to a communal passing
of plates. There’s an intimacy to the menu, as well as the
space, which allows you to cozy up to the meal of your
choosing, without feeling too led or forced into certain
dining tropes.
But before you peruse the dining menu, be sure to
order a cocktail from Johnson’s well-crafted cocktail list.
Just like at Lucky, what can be made in-house will be
made in-house, including gallons-worth of limoncello,
a popular Italian lemon-infused liquor. Just look behind
the bar and you’ll see shelves of the golden liquor steeping. For a touch of the traditional, order the Barrel Aged
Black Manhattan—a slam dunk of a drink featuring
barrel aged rye, Cocchi Vermouth, amaro (for that bitter, Italian touch), and fragrant cardamom bitters. More
THEROANOKER.COM
than the acquired (and clichéd) vision we all have of the
dish, this one tastes like it. All the care that Farmer puts
into each dish is evident, but none so much as this—it’s
like a hug that you can dip your spoon into.
Another surprising favorite is the sardines which are
lightly fried, served bone in and whole (as all sardines
are) with roasted tomatoes and a light and bright salsa
verde. While my friends were unsure of how to dig in
initially (“Do we eat the heads?”), everyone fell in love
with the dish. While sardines are often maligned as oily
and pungent, not to mention a little terrifying with all
their bones, these ones are accessible in their flavor and
form. If you aren’t familiar with sardines, I recommend
trying them at Fortunato—they’ll win you over.
Moving on from small dishes, be sure to order a
pasta or two from the Primo list. The Cacio e Pepe,
with its extruded buccatini (think spaghetti but hollow
on the inside) and fragrant pepper, parmesan, and olive
oil dressing, will make you forget that you’re eating a
vegetarian dish—it’s just that strong on its own. Meat
lovers, however, should embrace the Coniglio Ragu, a
deep winter dish of rabbit stewed in tomatoes, red wine,
basil, and other herbs, served over hand-cut pappardelle.
Again, it’s a hygge dish at its core—one you want to take
your time with. A more adventurous and guessied up
BEN GUI SUSHI
Authentic
Award-Winning
Dining Experience
Thank You!
A special thanks to the entire Village Grill staff for
their hard work and dedication to our restaurant and
amazing customers. Each of you bring a special contribution that makes our team complete. Looking
forward to creating more memories in 2016.
VOTED BEST SUSHI
2008-2014
4353 Starkey Rd. Roanoke, VA
(540) 772-6888 www.benguisushi.com
THEROANOKER.COM
Fire Up The Fun
Located in Roanoke’s Historic Grandin Village
1802 Memorial Ave. (540) 767-0057
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 | 59
Artwork
Local artist Toobz Muir
was commissioned to
work with Black Dog
Salvage on this van-side
painting, which hangs
in the back room at
AN AWARD-WINNING DELI AND NEIGHBORHOOD BAR
The Brambleton Deli offers flavorful, reasonably priced
sandwiches, BBQ, burgers, appetizers, salads, desserts and
more. A true neighborhood bar and restaurant, The Deli is
just as perfect for a delicious meal with family as it is for
meeting up with friends for live music or to watch your
favorite sports teams on one of the many big-screen TVs.
Pull up a chair and enjoy a taste of the best today!
SUN-THURS: 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
FRI-SAT: 11 a.m. - 12 a.m.
3655 Brambleton Avenue, Roanoke, VA 24018
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dish, however, is the Pasta al Nero di Sepia—squid ink
(yes, pitch black!) tagliatelle tossed with seared Carolina shrimp, white wine, olive oil and roasted tomato.
It’s visually arresting and leaves you wanting to try just
one more bite, then another, until the plate is empty.
Jumping out of order, more than anything, Fortunato
is, rightfully, becoming known as the place to order the
best pizza in southwestern Virginia. After experimenting with quite a few batches, Farmer landed on a dough
that straddles traditional Neapolitan-style and American-
style: a tad bit more doughy, all-purpose flour-based,
but with plenty of char and air pockets in the crust. A
72-hour cold fermentation allows the dough to gain a
sourdough-like flavor, then is stretched thin, topped,
and thrown in the 800-plus degree wood-burning oven.
It’s a quick process, and one that ensures a bubbling hot
pizza on your table within 10-15 minutes of ordering.
It’s impossible to pick a favorite—there isn’t a bad
one on the menu—but standouts include the more traditional Funghi e Prosciutto with its layers of Edward’s
ham, sautéed wild mushrooms, cheese and the spicy-hot
Mollusco with its Rappahannock clams and guanciale
(cured pork jowl reminiscent of bacon). Most surprisingly, though, the Patate, a vegetarian pizza featuring
paper thin slices of potato, fontina and panna (burrata)
cheeses, and onion stands out as one of the most craveable pies. It’s salty and crispy and satisfying without
being greasy or too filling. Fortunato, more than anything, proves that a good meal can be vegetarian without even trying.
Strangely, Fortunato’s smaller plates, pastas, and pizzas
steal the show. While two or three entrees (Secondo) are
available, they take a back seat to the rest of the menu.
Which isn’t to say that the dishes aren’t delicious—the
Whole Roasted Bronzino positively flakes off with the
touch of a fork, its salty olive tapenade and bright white
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THEROANOKER.COM
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60 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
540-989-7947
www.szechuan1.net
online ordering now available
Full Sushi Bar
(South Roanoke Location Only)
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3301 Brambleton Ave. Sun-Thurs 4:30 - 10:30 p.m.
Fri-Sat 4:30 - 11 p.m.
Roanoke,VA 24018
Lounge 4:30 p.m. - 2 a.m. Daily
(540) 989-6277
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FREE DELIVERY
Delivery Minimum $15
Limited Delivery Area
Delivery Time:
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Outdoor Patio Open!
Private Dining Rooms
Full Service Catering Available
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Reservations Recommended
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5207 Bernard Dr. Ste. H,
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY
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Dessert!
Finish your meal with something sweet like a traditional cannoli with a lemon twist.
bean salad lend a good contrast to the fish, but the sardines or Polpo (octopus with fingerling potatoes) appetizer are more unique. Likewise the Spalla de Maiale, a
savory pork shoulder “porchetta” (deboned roulade of
pork shoulder), is a great dish, but doesn’t carry the same
weight as the lamb meatball or the cured charcuterie.
Celebrating
30 Years!
Likewise, the dolci (dessert) falls a little flat, with the
only options usually being a cannoli or zeppole (Italian
doughnuts). While neither option is bad, they suffer
when compared to the rest of the menu (both in terms
of savory dishes and drinks).
What, then, makes a restaurant successful and full of
hygge? For some, it’s the food. For others, the service
is key (which is impeccable at Fortunato, by the way).
But here, in Roanoke, what makes a restaurant shine is
an owner, or, in this case, a group of owners who are
invested in helping create a unique culture and community in a restaurant space. Sit at the bar and chances are
Hunter Johnson himself will shake a cocktail for you. Jeff
Farmer will wave “hi” from behind the kitchen window.
JP Powell and Jake Zuckerman will make the rounds and
talk with guests. If you sit at a communal table, you’ll
strike up a conversation with the couple next to you. If
you sit at a two-top by the window, you’ll watch Roanoke’s evening unfold. But this winter and into 2016,
Fortunato, more than any other restaurant in Roanoke,
is going to change your mind about community and
sharing and what makes a city, above all, home. It embraces hygge and it embraces us, one sardine and glass
of wine at a time. I
Most Authentic Italian Restaurant
in the Valley
62 | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016
LOCATIONS
260 Wildwood Rd.
Salem, VA (540) 387-4045
3280 Electric Rd.
Roanoke, VA (540) 774-3735
3518 Orange Ave.
Roanoke, VA (540) 400-0458
www.elrodeoroanoke.com
Next Stop,
FAmily-FrieNdly
diNiNg
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gA
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Sun-Thurs 11:00AM - 9:00PM
Fri-Sat 11:00AM - 10:00PM
Near Tanglewood Mall
3830 Franklin Road, Roanoke, VA 24014
540-989-4675 TheGreat611SteakCo.com
Treat yourself to a Taste of
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Authentic Cuisine from Asia
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MON-THURS
11 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.,
4:30 p.m. - 10 p.m.
FRI
11 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.,
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540-342-1001
3603 Franklin Road, SW
Roanoke, VA 24014
facebook.com/tasteofasiaroanoke
www.tasteofasiava.com
Nobody does it
like Mamma!
The luscious flavors
of Italy, right here
in Salem!
In 1986, the Arellano family opened their first
restaurant location, El Rodeo, on Williamson
Road with a modest 55-person occupancy. 30
years later, there are many locations throughout
the valley including El Rodeo on Electric
Road and Orange Avenue in Roanoke, and on
Wildwood Road in Salem; and three El Toreo
locations in Roanoke.
And in the spring of 2016, brand-new El Rodeo
is opening near Valley View Mall.
All AboArd!
From zesty salads, to mouthwatering pasta, to deluxe pizza
Mamma Maria’s
pies—come delight your taste buds
Italian Restaurant
with authentic recipes and only the
540-389-2848
freshest ingredients.
2025 W Main St.Salem, VA 24153
Mamma’s Pizza
Homemade Gelato, Desserts,
540-444-9994
Pasta, & Sauces made daily, all with
151 Electric Rd. Salem, VA 24153
fresh ingredients!
www.mammamariasva.com
THEROANOKER.COM
The Best kept secret
In the Roanoke Valley
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« USDA CHOICE STEAKS HAND-CUT
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THEROANOKER.COM
Mon-Thurs 11 a.m.–10 p.m.
Fri-Sat 11 a.m.–11 p.m.
Sun 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
2843 Orange Avenue Northeast
Roanoke, VA 24012
540-342-0826
1650 Braeburn Drive
Salem, VA 24153
540-387-9061
Designated inside smoking area. Free WiFi.
JERSEYLILYS.COM
Sustainable. Organic. Local. Ethical.
Freshness Matters
From locally farmed vegetables and
meats to handcrafted dining room tables,
there is nowhere better to enjoy a taste of
the region than Local Roots Restaurant.
We have a Farm-to-Table approach with
an environment perfect for conversation
and business. Enjoy comfortable surroundings as you experience the best in
locally sourced and prepared foods.
Lunch: Tuesday–Saturday,
11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.
Dinner: Tuesday–Saturday, 5–10 p.m.
Sunday Brunch: 11 a.m.–2:30 p.m.
Sunday-evening:
Family–style Supper 5–9 p.m.
Closed Mondays
540-206-2610
1314 Grandin Road S.W.
Roanoke, VA 24015
www.localrootsrestaurant.com
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2016 | 63