Malaga Sun, Routes and Excursions
Transcription
Malaga Sun, Routes and Excursions
TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU COSTA DEL SOL TOURIST BOARD Plaza del Siglo, 2 29015 MÁLAGA - ESPAÑA Telephone: (+34) 952 12 62 72 E-mail: [email protected] Malaga Sun, Routes and Excursions Website: www.visitcostadelsol.com Tourist Guide 13 Available online: www.visitcostadelsol.com Spanish, English, French and German versions Costa del Sol Tourist Board rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 2 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . ROUTES AND EXCURSIONS . CYCLE TOURING page 4 page 235 . ACTIVE TRAVEL COMPANIES page 329 COSTA DEL SOL TOURIST BOARD Plaza del Siglo, 2 29015 Málaga Telephone: (+34) 952 12 62 72 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.visitcostadelsol.com 3 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 4 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU contents TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU ROUTES AND EXCURSIONS . pág. 5 pág. 6 pág. 12 pág. 18 pág. 26 pág. 32 . iNTRODUCTION Dear reader: The tourist guide that you are about to read, entitled Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions, has been created to enable visitors to the Costa del Sol to participate in trekking, cycling and hiking activities on their own. The routes chosen combine the beauty of natural landscapes with artistic and cultural sites scattered throughout the province. There are other, more dynamic or riskier active travel activities you can try in Málaga (e.g. mountaineering or paragliding), but for these you should contact a professional instructor. MÁLAGA, SUN, ROUTES AND EXCURSIONS pág. 40 pág. 48 pág. 60 pág. 72 pág. 80 In the last section of this guide, you will see a list of associated active travel companies. pág. 92 pág. 100 We hope you enjoy reading this guide. Introduction . pág. 130 pág. 138 Routes and excursions Introducción . Alcaucín A . lfarnatejo . Canillas del Aceituno . Canillas de Albaida . Colmenar . Cómpeta . Cortes de la Frontera . El Burgo . Frigiliana . Genalguacil . Istán . Málaga . Monda . Parauta . Riogordo . Ronda . Salares . Tolox . Yunquera pág. 144 pág. 152 pág. 194 pág. 202 pág. 222 . 4 www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 5 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 6 TOURIST BOARD & This wintry scenery is in stark contrast with the landscape of the surroundings, with the deepblue Mediterranean that bathes the Costa del Sol in the distance. ALCÁZAR LA MAROMA TRAIL . aLCAUCÍN The peak is 2,065m high and from its summit the best views can be seen, not only of the Axarquía region but also of many bordering villages of Granada. You can even see the white tops of the Sierra Nevada range. As a . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Needless to say, the views from the highest point of the province of Málaga are truly spectacular. From the top of La Maroma you can see almost the entire Axarquía region, the city of Málaga, several cities in Granada, the Sierra Nevada range, and even, weather permitting, the African coastline. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 6 Continuing on the trail, going uphill, typical mountain scrub vegetation will be visible. After half an hour, the terrain becomes less After about four hours on the trail, we reach the summit of La Maroma peak. Here, we can watch Spanish ibexes, eagles and wild boars. Other species in the area include peregrine falcons, eagle owls, and several species of reptiles and amphibians. Routes and excursions Length: 7km Estimated time: 8-10 hours. Difficulty: strenuous to very strenuous. Beginning of route: El Alcázar (Alcaucín). End of route: La Maroma (Canillas del Aceituno). Itinerary: Alcázar (Alcaucín), Loma de la Víbora hill, Ananás de Alcaucín, cliff of Peña del Águila and Cerro del Mojón hill, and La Maroma peak (Canillas del Aceituno). From El Alcázar, we go uphill through a forest trail until we get to the Loma de la Víbora. There we stop to enjoy the view: to the northwest, The Sierra Gorda de Loja range with the Zafarraya karst field at its foot; to the east, the Sierra de Parapanda range; to the west, the La Viñuela reservoir; in front, weather permitting, you will be able to see the profile of Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park; and to the north, the Sierra de Camarolos and Sierra de Alhama ranges. The climb becomes less steep after the cliff and this is where it is possible - if you are patient enough - to watch little mountain birds and big eagles. A little further on there are some rocks piled up that signal the border between the districts of Alcaucín and Alhama de Granada. This is a good time to catch our breath and enjoy the panoramic views of two iconic places –the CazorlaSegura and the Sierra Nevada ranges. At the foot of this range, to the right, you can see the new rain gauge next to the mines of the Casa de las Nieves. . TECHNICAL DATA The route we are going to detail here is the former, which starts from a place known as El Alcázar, within the district of Alcaucín. This is one of the most frequented trails as there is a camping area where you can prepare for the ascent. The trail is shorter, but much more complex than the one starting at El Robledal Alto. Its difficulty ranges from strenuous to very strenuous, it is seven kilometres long, and can be completed in about 8 to 10 hours. Now we leave behind the path to take a rocky trail with scrub vegetation. This is the cliff formed by the Peña del Águila crag and the Cerro del Mojón hill, where people can frequently come across large herds of Spanish ibex goats. The vegetation in this area includes hedgehog broom, Spanish sage, and blackthorn. Alcaucín Alcaucín ALCÁZAR - LA MAROMA TRAIL The highest peak in the province of Málaga is La Maroma peak of the Sierra de Tejeda range, one of the most beautiful places of Sierra de Tejeda, Sierra de Almijara and the Sierra de Alhama Nature Park, shared by the provinces of Málaga and Granada. But getting to La Maroma peak is no easy task for people who do not go trekking regularly, as almost all the routes are quite long and have difficult stretches. Two routes are worth mentioning –the one from El Alcázar and the route from El Robledal Alto. steep and we come to Ananás de Alcaucín. We carry on, leaving behind and beneath us, the impressive Alcázar rocks, while marvelling at the Peña del Águila crag in front of us. CONVENTION BUREAU matter of fact, the presence of snow on the summit is one of the beauties of this peak during the colder months of the year, when the temperatures drop considerably. 7 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 8 ALCÁZAR-LA MAROMA TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & . . Routes and excursions . . Routes and excursions Alcaucín Alcaucín CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border District border Nature Reserve border 8 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 9 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 10 TOURIST BOARD & Although important archaeological remains have been found in the area (pottery from different periods and a Neanderthal jaw), the village of Alcaucín was not founded until Moorish times. Its name derives from Alcavzin o Alcautin, Arabic word which means “the arches.” Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . The Neanderthal jaw mentioned above was found in 1983 in the Zafarraya Cave. The human remains and tools found there are still being studied by different international organisations. In the village, Nuestra Señora del Rosario church (Our Lady of the Rosary) is worth a visit. It was built in the seventeenth century and later restored. Although it was built during the Baroque period, this church of two naves is surprisingly simple in style; not the chapel, though, which is definitely Rococo. From the Chapel of Nuestro Señor del Calvario (Our Lord of the Calvary), from the eighteenth century, you can enjoy a vast panorama, the farms in the surrounding areas so small they are but white dots. The Cinco Caños Fountain, located in the village, owes its fame to its generous five waterspouts, which, the locals claim, never run out of water, not even during the worst droughts. The festive schedule of Alcaucín is very busy. Virtually no month goes by without a celebration. The most important celebrations are Holy Week, St. Isidore the Farmer, Las Candelarias, the August Fair, and the Day of the Virgin of the Rosary. During Holy Week, the majority of the villagers take part in the customary representation called “The Jews.” They dress up and wear masks, and then half the town harasses the other half for a couple of days. On May 15, a pilgrimage takes place in homage to St. Isidore the Farmer. The pilgrims go to El Alcázar, a place quite close to town where the villagers share food and drink. In early September, people gather in farms and other places to celebrate Las Candelarias, which is like a fire ritual where people enjoy sharing food and keeping bonfires alive. They throw old clothes among other items onto the bonfires. The August Fair includes a festival featuring famous flamenco singers and guitarists. The Day of the Virgin of the Rosary (October 7), the patron of the village, is also known as the “little fair,” and as events go, it does not differ greatly from the August celebration. FOOD The culinary tradition of the Axarquía region has undergone changes due to the introduction –several years ago– of subtropical fruit (avocado, custard apple, mango, papaya, etc.). Nowadays the traditional dishes coexist with new specialties made with the new fruit grown here. However, traditional fritters, kid prepared with various sauces, fried loin with garlic, stews and cod omelette with honey are still very much in demand. The Zalía Castle, not far from the village, is the oldest monument in Alcaucín. According to experts, certain elements of this fortress indicate that it may have been originally built by the Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . The Autovía del Mediterráneo (A-7) towards Vélez-Málaga leads to Alcaucín. However, you do FIESTAS The lands of Alcaucín and the bordering districts are rich in archaeological sites, a logical consequence of a particular land feature of the area –the Zafarraya Gap. This natural pass was a vital link –especially in ancient times– between the coast and inland Andalusia. Surface area: 46 km2. Population: 2,340. Name given to the local people: Alcaucineños. Location: North of the Axarquía region, 20km from Vélez-Mála ga, and 45km from the capital of the province of Málaga. The district is 508m above sea level, with an average annual rainfall of over 900 l/m2, and an average annual temperature of 16°C. What to see: Church of Nuestra Señora del Rosario (Our Lady of the Rosary), Chapel of Nuestro Señor del Calvario (Our Lord of the Calvary), Cinco Caños Fountain, Castle of Zalía. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza de la Constitución, 1 (29711). Tel.: (+34) 952 510 002; Fax: (+34) 952 510 076. Routes and excursions HOW TO GET THERE WHAT TO SEE USEFUL INFORMATION . 10 The earthquake of December 25, 1884 was particularly devastating for this village –besides the enormous material damage it caused (it changed the course of underground streams, destroyed buildings, and lifted motorways and roads), many people died. To make matters worse, there was a heavy snowfall that year, which made the arrival of help to the village more difficult. Phoenicians and later renovated by other civilisations. The story goes that Ulysses stayed in this castle while sailing the Mediterranean Sea. What is indeed unquestionable is that the fortress was occupied by Moors and later by Christians. Alcaucín Alcaucín The narrow winding streets, the whitewashed houses, the indoor patios bursting with plants and flowers, the problem of drops in level resolved with steps, and the steep sloping streets, confirm the Moorish origin of the village. Most probably, local people joined the Moorish uprising in the sixteenth century, though there are no records to support this hypothesis. What is known, however, is that in 1569, the Moor Andrés de Xorairán attacked Alcaucín, but this revolt, like many others, was quickly crushed by the Christians. not need to go via Vélez, as from the A-7 you can take the A-355 which will lead you to a detour at the Cruce de Don Manuel. From this point, take the MA-128 which leads straight to Alcaucín. CONVENTION BUREAU Alcaucín, in the north of the Axarquía region, shares a border with the province of Granada and stretches between the imposing Sierra de Tejeda range, the rugged Boquete de Zafarraya –a natural pass between the coast and the inland areas– and the Corredor de Periana, an area of rolling hills. This district, therefore, has incredibly varied and amazing geographical features, altogether a strikingly rich landscape. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 11 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 12 TOURIST BOARD & In fact, the cattle troughs will be our guide so we do not lose our way and get safely to the pass between the Heights of Doña Ana and Del Fraile Hill. Just beyond the pass is the first reward for our efforts -the magnificent views of the village of Riogordo and the Gómer ravine. THROUGH THE DOÑA ANA AND GÓMER RAVINES . aLFARNATEJO Then we go south round De la Hiedra Hill, when it will become clear that we are going uphill until we get to the Heights of Doña Ana. After this stretch, the more difficult part of the trail lies in front of us –the ascent is steep and there is no marked trail. The road MA-157 towards Alfarnatejo goes up by the Sabar River, next to the Heights of Doña Ana, one of the key points of our route. The secret lies in not losing our bearings, which is actually not a very difficult task. Once at the top, the views are spectacular –from here we can see the villages of Comares, Casabermeja, and Periana, and also the shores of Torre del Mar. TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions To go down, the best thing to do is to follow the same way we came up. Routes and excursions Length: about 5km Estimated time: 2 hours, 30 minutes at a steady pace. Difficulty: easy to moderate. Beginning of route: MA-157 towards Alfarnatejo (Alfarnatejo). End of route: top of the Doña Ana ravine (Alfarnatejo) Itinerary: The MA-157 towards Alfarnatejo, the Sabar River trail, the Tallón and Del Fraile track, pass between Doña Ana and Del Fraile Hill, De la Hiedra Hill and Doña Ana (Alfarnatejo). . 12 This is one of the nicest routes of the province, as its difficulty seems just right, the environment is very pleasant, and there are excellent panoramic views from different points. Alfarnatejo Alfarnatejo THROUGH THE DOÑA ANA AND GÓMER RAVINES CONVENTION BUREAU The best plan is to arrive by car and take the detour to the left which leads to a sign indicating you have reached the Tallón track and the Del Fraile Heights. You should follow this track, which comes to an end approximately 1,500m from the road next to an old cattle trough. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 13 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 14 THROUGH THE DOÑA ANA AND GÓMER RAVINES TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road District border Alfarnatejo Alfarnatejo . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . 14 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 15 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:00 PÆgina 16 TOURIST BOARD & Thanks to its proximity to the village of Alfarnate, which has been a natural pass between the provinces of Málaga and Granada since ancient times, human settlements occurred very early in this area. This was revealed by the archaeological remains from the Neolithic period found in the ravine of the Sabar River, and also by the 5,000 year-old utensils found in the Gómer ravine. . Routes and excursions . The route to get to Alfarnate is also good to get to Alfarnatejo, as the distance between the two villages is less than 5km. The most characteristic celebration of this village during Holy Week is the so called cencerrada (from cencerro, cowbell) which takes place on Holy Saturday. That day, upon hearing the church bells ring, the youngsters of the village go out in the streets equipped with cowbells and go around the village making a happy racket. For a few years now, on the first Saturday of August, the villages have celebrated the Fiesta del Gazpacho with great attendance, honouring the most traditional dish of the village. On April 15, and May 15, there are pilgrimages in homage of St. Mark and St. Isidore, respectively. The best Málaga chickpeas are grown in Alfarnatejo, so it’s not surprising that the bestknown dish of this village is chickpea stew, apart from the gazpacho mentioned above. But it is on September 29, Day of St. Michael and Cristo de la Cabrilla, when the town celebrates with all the trimmings. There are games, sports and cultural activities, all in a tight schedule. The whole town takes part, as there are options for all ages and tastes. Among the religious ceremonies, the most prominent is the procession, in which instead of carrying a statue of the saint, the locals carry a canvas with the image of the saint painted on it, which is reverently worshiped. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents FOOD The cachorreñas soups –a typical dish in all the province– make a good starter. Then, we can have kid fried with garlic or migas (a dish made with fried breadcrumbs). Alternatively, we can have a salad with mint and garlic, watercress salad, mushroom morrete (a kind of stew), and for dessert, some delicious roscos de San Marcos (ring shaped biscuits). Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The best way to get to Alfarnatejo is from the city of Málaga, where you have to take the A-45 (N331). After leaving Casabermeja behind, take the A-356 towards Colmenar, and after 10km, take the A-6118. 6km ahead on this road, take the MA157, which will lead you straight to Alfarnatejo. The celebration of La Candelaria, on February 2, starts the festive year in Alfarnatejo. It is very similar to other fiestas celebrated the same day all over the Axarquía region in its ceremonial form –basically a fire ritual. Routes and excursions This special landscape gives rise to heavy average rainfall in the area –compared to other sout- HOW TO GET THERE FIESTAS Surface area: 20km2. Population: 542. Name given to the local people: Alfarnatejones. Nickname: tejones. Location: Northwest of the Axarquía region, 50km from the capital of the province and 36km from Vélez-Málaga. The village is 858m above sea level; it has an average annual rainfall of 1,000 l/m2 and an average annual temperature of 13°C. What to see: Church of Santo Cristo de la Cabrilla, route of the ravines. Tourist information: Town Hall, C/ Pósito, 2 (29194). Tel.: (+34) 952 759 286. Fax: (+34) 952 759 360. . 16 Although other villages in the province of Málaga are at a higher altitude than Alfarnatejo, the first impression the visitor has when approaching this village is that this is a perfect place for eagles. Closer to town, the road opens up and gives way to a small basin where this picturesque village sits. The presence of the mountain, though, still makes a strong visual impact. The view is blocked towards Antequera by the Chamizo Peak (1,637m), while to the south, in the distance, the Sierra del Rey range is another formidable barrier. The few extant records do not amount to sufficient data on the history of this particular village, which must have been a stage for the comings and goings of troops in the Middle Ages. In the eighteenth century, the village gained autonomy from Alfarnate, and this is well recorded. Like in Alfarnate and Periana, guerrillas from the Spanish Civil War took refuge in the mountains of this district until the late 1950s. USEFUL INFORMATION Besides the ruins of a Moorish castle on the mountain slope very close to the village, the most interesting monument in Alfarnatejo is the Parish Church of Santo Cristo de Cabrilla, located in the upper part of the village. It was built in the eighteenth century, and rebuilt in the 1970s. The church has a quadrangular floor plan divided in two naves. Its most salient feature is a square tower, as plain as the rest of the temple, but of some architectural elegance. Alfarnatejo Alfarnatejo There are some remains indicating that in the Muslim period there was a castle, The Sabar Castle. Around the castle, there were farmsteads, and some historians believe that this may have given birth to Alfarnatejo. WHAT TO SEE CONVENTION BUREAU hern villages– thus the landscapes of Alfarnatejo are lush green. Not surprisingly, some people call this area “the Pyrenees of the South.” 17 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 18 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU The trail starts at the town’s main square, next to the Town Hall and a fountain where the first sign of the itinerary is found. We then ascend through several town streets, where we can admire their Moorish legacy, until the signs direct us out of town. At this point, we will stop for a short while in order to enjoy the landscape of the Axarquía region before us. CASA DE LA NIEVE TRAIL (CANILLAS DEL ACEITUNO – MAROMA) . cANILLAS DEL CASA DE LA NIEVE TRAIL (CANILLAS DEL ACEITUNO – MAROMA) . TECHNICAL DATA Routes and excursions . At this point, the trail joins the path described at the Alcázar Trail-La Maroma, which reaches the summit of the spectacular peak of the Sierra de Tejeda range. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions On the next cliff, the rock changes colour from pale gray or white to dark brown, where the trail has frequent changes of direction until the white rock starts again. When the slope loses steepness, we find the remains of what used to be the old Casa de la Nieve (House of Snow), where the inhabitants of Canillas del Aceituno that devoted themselves to keeping and tapping of the snow of the summit used to take shelter. Routes and excursions Estimated time: 10 hours. Difficulty: very strenuous. Beginning of route: Canillas del Aceituno. End of route: La Maroma (Canillas del Aceituno). Itinerary: Canillas del Aceituno’s main square, De la Rávita Spring, De la Rávita Pass, De la Gitana Spring, Casa de la Nieve (Canillas del Aceituno). The trail continues on the edge of the ravine until we turn left to get to the De La Gitana Spring, which may or may not have water depending on the year’s rainfall. . 18 The Casa de la Nieve route is very strenuous and takes ten hours to complete. It starts from Canillas del Aceituno, a town that can be accessed via the road that joins Vélez-Málaga with the Viñuela Dam going towards the Zafarraya Gap. After one hour climbing through pine woods, we will arrive to the De la Rávita Spring, where we will be able to rest and drink some water to continue climbing to the De la Rávita Pass, an area with spectacular landscapes, both of La Maroma itself and of the Almanchares River ravine. Canillas del Aceituno Canillas del Aceituno ACEITUNO The challenging La Maroma climb (the summit of the Sierra de Tejeda range being at 2,065m) can be done via different routes: the Alcázar Trail-La Maroma, the El Robledal TrailLa Maroma; and Casa de la Nieve Trail, which will be detailed here. From then on, the trail is very easy to follow, as it still has part of the original cobblestones of earlier times, when the villagers of Canillas del Aceituno made use of the snow of the surrounding areas of La Maroma. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 19 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 20 CASA DE LA NIEVE TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border District border Nature Reserve border Canillas del Aceituno Canillas del Aceituno Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 20 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 21 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 22 TOURIST BOARD & Arriving in these lands, visitors find themselves immersed in a simply spectacular landscape, both for the mountains themselves and the panoramic views that can be enjoyed from everywhere. The northern area is covered by pine woods that give way to rocky terrain in the upper levels. While the southern area, although not any less rugged, is more like the typical landscape of the Axarquía region, has hills with vineyards and olive groves, occasionally mixed with fruit orchards and market gardens. To the twenty-first century mind, the location of this town must seem arbitrary. The fact is that its location is due to two factors that were crucial in the Middle Ages - an adundance of water and, should the need arise, a possible safe haven or natural stronghold. Canillas del Aceituno . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents HOW TO GET THERE From the Autovía del Mediterráneo (A-7; N-340), take the A-335 (the main road that crosses the Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 22 The village was repopulated by Christians from Archidona, Antequera, Lucena, and Cabra, and apparently also from Andújar. This would explain the devotion to the Virgen de la Cabeza, who is the patron of both Canillas del Aceituno and Andújar. Routes and excursions According to the chroniclers, a Moor called Al Muezzín – who had fought in the famous uprising of Alpujarras in the sixteenth century – arrived at Canillas in search of his wife, who had been enslaved by a Christian. Al Muezzín encouraged a revolt in Canillas del Aceituno, and some of his men, inflamed by the cause, killed eight Christians who happened to be at an inn. When informed of the act, the Judge of Vélez, imprisoned an unknown number of Moors, tortured them, and stripped them of their possessions. This prompted wide-spread revolt. After the uprising was crushed, the Moors were expelled from the village and the castle was destroyed on Philip II's orders. . However, the foundation of the town as such took place during Arab rule, when the first settlement was established – Canillas Azzeitún – a name the town still keeps, with a slight variation. It is known that it was part of the kingdom of Granada, but the exact date in which it was conquered by the Christians is unknown. The Moorish rebellion, however, is very well documented, especially one event involving romance, politics and war. Surface area: 42km2. Population: Around 2,300. Name given to the local people: Canilleros. Location: Northeast of the Axarquía region, at 17km from Vélez-Málaga, and 51km from the capital of the province. The town is 650m above sea level and has a rainfall of 670 l/m2. The annual average temperature is 17°C. What to see: Nuestra Señora del Rosario Church, Casa de los Diezmos, medieval water well. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza de la Constitución, 1 (29716). Tel.: (+34) 952 518 002. Canillas del Aceituno The remains found at the area known as La Fájara indicate that the primitive man inhabited this region, which is relatively close to the Zafarraya Gap, a natural pass from the coast into the interior of the peninsula used since ancient times. It is more than likely that Phoenicians and Romans also roamed this region, as they were present in other areas nearby. USEFUL INFORMATION CONVENTION BUREAU This amazing and picturesque town of the Axarquía region stretches over one of the sides of the imposing massif of the Sierra de Tejeda range, although the district limits extend to the vicinity of La Maroma peak (2,065 metres high), considered to be the roof of Málaga. 23 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 24 TOURIST BOARD & WHAT TO SEE . FOOD The kid roasted in a firewood oven is considered one of Canillas del Aceituno’s most traditional dishes and it is certainly one of the tastiest. Other usual dishes include ajoblanco (a cold soup), migas (a dish made from fried breadcrumbs), gachas con mosto (a soup made basically of flour, spices, and in this case grape juice) and fennel stew. Also worth mentioning are the tomato soup and the pan romano (Roman bread). Traditional pastries include roscos “tontos” and roscos de vino (kinds of ring-shaped pastries) and tortas de aceite (oil cakes). The local sweet wine goes well with any dessert. 24 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions The carnivals, in February, are the first celebration of the year, and then there is a break until the last Sunday in April, when the Día de la Morcilla (Black Pudding Day) or Fiesta de la Virgen de la Cabeza is held. On that date, visitors are treated to the excellent black pudding produced in the area, usually eaten with bread and wine. In the middle of May, the St. Isidore pilgrimage takes place, and during the second week of August, the Virgen de la Cabeza is once again the attraction of the fiesta, in this case the village fair, when the image of the Virgin is borne in a procession. The Candelarias celebrations (September 8 and 9) are also deeply rooted in village tradition. Routes and excursions The Casa de los Diezmos (House of Tithes), also known as the Casa de la Reina Mora (House of the Moorish Queen), is a Mudéjar building with an elegant tower in the same style. From this place, the production and sale of white mulberry leaves and silkworms of the entire region was checked. FIESTAS . Located in the upper part of town, its construction dates from the sixteenth century, although it underwent many alterations in later times. The masonry is built on a Muslim mosque following the style prevailing in Andalusia at the time – the Gothic-Mudéjar style. Like almost any middlesized temple, its interior is divided into three naves, 40m long and covered by a wooden framework. Two eighteenth century baroque chapels not lacking in artistic merit still survive. There is also an image of the Virgen de la Cabeza and a Pieta oil painting dated at the end of the seventeenth century. On the exterior, a square section tower with an octagonal second body stands out due to its size. Given the abundance of water across almost all the land there are several water wells, among which there is the Aljibe Medieval (medieval water well) which stands out as it is the oldest (sixteenth century). It is located on Huertezuelo Street. Other more modern ones are the El Pilar Grande and El Chico wells. Canillas del Aceituno Canillas del Aceituno The best advice to give a traveller that comes to Canilla del Aceituno would be to walk down the streets of the village without a set course, particularly in the upper part of town, which is a superb viewing point for the whole Axarquía region, where in the distance the land joins the Mediterranean. However, there are a few buildings that are worth visiting, such as the Virgen del Rosario and San León Magno Parish Church. CONVENTION BUREAU Axarquía region) towards Vélez-Málaga. After 10 kilometres, there is a detour towards the MA125, which will take you directly to Canillas del Aceituno. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 25 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 26 TOURIST BOARD & The surrounding area of Canillas de Albaida is suitable for rural tourism and trekking. One of the best-known spots is the La Fábrica Brook, located where the De la Cueva and the La Turvilla Brooks meet. The entire footpath is approximately 5km long, moderate in difficulty, and it takes around 3 hours to complete. Water is very abundant along the route. The water contains calcium and magnesium bicarbonate. . cANILLAS DE ALBAIDA We turn left and continue climbing for a short while. In this stretch of the trail, there are several springs. Then we enter a marble gorge; this marble is very pure and used to be mined. As we go further, we will find the remains of the old de la Luz (Factory of Light) where the waterfalls were used to generate electrical power. Water abounds in the surroundings, as there are many springs surging from the cracks between white marble and dark schist on both sides of the De la Cueva de Melero Brook, resulting in the trail showing lush vegetation. Access to the Fábrica de la Luz-Cómpeta Pass trail is from the village of Canillas de Abaida. We take the dirt track that goes to the right at the entrance of the village towards “La Fábrica” and the Sierra de Tejeda Range. We pass the pretty St. Anne’s Chapel, built in the sixteenth century with a single barrel-vaulted nave and a hemispherical dome-roofed sanctuary. From this place, a spectacular view of the nearby range can be enjoyed. The trail continues towards the mountains where we Once in the recreational area, we will walk along a footpath that crosses the brook from behind the Fábrica de la Luz building. Half an hour later, we reach the Cortijo del Chato, in front of the Del Melero Cave, at which point we leave behind the water and start a rural track to continue climbing until we reach the Cortijo del Chaparral. . Routes and excursions . We go ahead and cross the De la Teja Spring ravine, where we leave the track and take a forest trail until we reach Blanquillo Pass. Climbing this pass, the trail will take us to the end of our route –the Cómpeta Pass. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Length: 5km Estimated time: 2 hours, 30 minutes. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: Fábrica de la Luz (Canillas de Albaida). End of route: Cómpeta Pass (Cómpeta). Itinerary: Recreational area of the Fábrica de la Luz, Cortijo del Chato Farm, Cortijo del Chaparral, La Mina Cliff Brook, Cortijo de Camacho, De la Teja Spring Ravine, Blanquillo Pass, Cómpeta Pass (Cómpeta) Routes and excursions This is an area of irrigated market gardens, where we can find cork oaks and sweet chestnut trees. After the terraces, we reach the La Mina’s Cliff Brook, which generally carries water. Following the path, we reach the Cortijo de Camacho, in which nowadays, they raise livestock of the rubia malagueña and serrana varieties; they also breed Spanish water dogs. TECHNICAL DATA Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The vegetation includes Aleppo pines, mastic trees, strawberry trees, thyme, oleander, ferns, fig trees, olive trees, and fruit trees, among others. The fauna is especially rich in birds such as hoopoes, eagle owls, little owls, partridges, skylarks, bee-eaters, and falcons. . 26 We then reach the recreational area of La Fábrica, a place surrounded by springs of crystal-clear water and vegetation, prepared for camping, As a result there are tables and benches, barbecues, a public pool, showers, sinks, baths, car parking, and places for tents, among other things. Canillas de Albaida Canillas de Albaida ROUTE FROM CANILLAS DE ALBAIDA TO CÓMPETA PASS take an old ditch path that runs through shady areas where there are plenty of moist corners rich in vegetation. Then we get to a crossroads known as “Los Alamillos” in which there are signs for La Fábrica and the Sierra de Tejeda Range. CONVENTION BUREAU ROUTE FROM CANILLAS DE ALBAIDA TO CÓMPETA PASS 27 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 28 ROUTE FROM CANILLAS DE ALBAIDA TO CÓMPETA PASS TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border District border Nature Reserve border Canillas de Albaida Canillas de Albaida Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . 28 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 29 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 30 TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . Turn off the Autovía del Mediterráneo at Algarrobo-Costa onto the A-6203. After leaving Algarrobo and Sayalonga behind, there is a fork in the road; one way leads to Árchez and the other to Cómpeta. You can take either of the two, as both villages are a few kilometres away from Canillas de Albaida. place on the first week of August and lasts for three days, during which, on top of the typical activities of these kinds of celebration, there is a procession of the Virgin of the Rosary through the village streets. The image is carried again in a procession on its feast day, October 7. Also in October, the Day of La Salve is held. On September 7 and 8, bonfires are lit to celebrate the end of the harvest. WHAT TO SEE The mazelike layout of the village, the pronounced unevenness of its terrain and its popular architecture make a thorough tour of the town worthwhile, including the Church of Nuestra Señora de la Expectación (Our Lady of Expectation), built in the sixteenth century, but later rebuilt in the eighteenth century. This building of solid construction and quadrangular floor plan is located at the Town Hall’s square. It comprises three naves, the biggest of which is covered by wooden framework. It has an enthralling Rococo choir, and on the exterior, a robust twobodied tower can be appreciated. of the village. On the outside, thick buttresses, the atrium and a niche can be seen. Outside the village, on the road to Árchez, stands the seventeenth-century Chapel of San Antonio (St. Anthony). Likewise, it consists of a single nave covered by wooden framework. FIESTAS The Chapel of Santa Ana (St. Ann) – a plain building from the sixteenth century with a single barrel-vaulted nave – is located in the upper part St. Anthony’s celebration is held on January 17 and St John's fiesta, on June 24. The fair takes Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents FOOD Ajoblanco (a cold soup made with almonds, garlic and olive oil) and gazpacho (a cold vegetable soup) are the quintessential summer dishes, but perhaps more typical are fennel stew, corn flour migas (a dish made with fried crumbs, in this case corn flour bread crumbs), gachas (a soup made with flour and spices), and specially fried kid. In this region, a delicious muscatel is produced –in dry, semidry and sweet varieties. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . The town is likely to have originated in the thirteenth century, when it was a farmstead belonging to Vélez-Málaga. According to chroniclers, the name Albaida –which means white– seems to have more to do with the colour of the flowers that prevailed in the region back then than with the HOW TO GET THERE Routes and excursions The southern slope of the territory has the typical landscape of the Axarquía region –vineyards, almond trees and olive groves start to appear at the hillsides, and in the valleys near town, where there is plenty of water, there are a few irrigation farms. Surface area: 33,20km2. Population: Around 900. Name given to the local people: Canilleros. Location: In the Axarquía region, 50km from Málaga City and only 2.5km from Cómpeta. The town is 580m above sea level, the average annual rainfall is 670 l/m2, and the average temperature is 17°C. What to see: Church of Nuestra Señora de la Expectación (Our Lady of Expectation), St. Anne’s and St. Anthony’s Chapel. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza Generalísimo, 8 (29755). Tel.: (+34) 952 516 025. Fax: (+34) 952 553 100. . 30 As the terrain loses steepness, and the torrents become streams, like De la Cueva, Turvilla and Ciguilias, the landscape fills with black and white poplars, and oleanders, vegetation that, together with the now tamed waterways, creates extraordinarily beautiful scenery. One such a place is La Fábrica, where the De la Cueva and Turvilla Brooks meet, which is an area very close to the town and frequented by the locals, who enjoy the camping facilities. After the Catholic Monarchs conquered VélezMálaga in 1487, Canillas de Albaida capitulated to the Christians, but that did not stop them from joining the Moorish uprising of the sixteenth century. They suffered the same fate that befell the surrounding villages after their defeat at the battle of Peñón de Frigiliana, a well-documented historic event. Canillas de Albaida Canillas de Albaida The district spreads to the north to the summits of the Sierra Almijara range, and to the borders with the Granada province. To the south, it extends almost to Daimalos, which is located in the district of Arenas. As a prelude to the mountain landscape, very near the village, we find the Secanillo and the Cuevas highlands, which stand 800m high and herald the considerable heights (over 1,600m) of the cliffs of Chapa, Albucaz, and Carneros, which are surrounded by ravines and torrents partly covered with pine woods. USEFUL INFORMATION CONVENTION BUREAU Taking into account that “albaida” means white in Arabic, we have to admit that the village name could not be more appropriate, because if you see the town from a distance, the whiteness of the houses stands out brightly on the top of a small hill on which the town sits. colour of the houses, although nowadays, it refers to the whitewashed houses in town. 31 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 32 TOURIST BOARD & . cOLMENAR TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . We are now in the vicinity of the spring area, the true source of the Guadalmedina River. We continue our descent surrounded by springs Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Going westwards, we go through the northern part of the range, and although some stretches may be a bit difficult, after climbing the Sierra de Camarolos range we get a pleasant reward –a mountain meadow, where weather permitting, we can rest again if we have some time. Routes and excursions 32 We follow the route, this time downhill, until we reach a point in which the Sierra de Camarolos range actually meets the Sierra del Jobo. The route can be tricky here as there are no signs and we need to know how to go westwards. This is the best way –not to say the only way– to successfully complete our route, as further ahead, the zigzagging paths, ascents and descents turn into veritable walls that can make progress impossible. . Length: 10km Estimated time: around 3 hours, 30 minutes. Difficulty: easy to moderate. Beginning of route: foot of the Hundidero at the Sierra de Camarolos Range (Colmenar). End of route: Hundidero de Camarolos (Colmenar). Itinerary: foot of the Hundidero at the Sierra de Camarolos range (Colmenar), Cerro Pelado hill, junction of the Sierra de Camarolos and the Sierra del Jobo ranges, Sierra de Camarolos range, De Casapalma brook, Hundidero (Colmenar). The first climb of the dirt road leads to the foot of Cerro Pelado hill. We continue the ascent on a footpath through a holm oak wood until we reach a spring. This is one of the best spots to stop for a break, as from here you can enjoy a great panoramic view of the Hundidero mentioned above. Colmenar Colmenar THROUGH THE SIERRA DE CAMAROLOS RANGE TO THE HUNDIDERO The end of this route is the famous Hundidero de Camarolos. This is actually the part of the range that collapsed after heavy rains three decades ago. The trail takes us to the point where this mountain meets the Sierra del Jobo Range, a place in which two different landscapes combine –a pleasant scenery of holm oaks with a panorama in which the stars are the springs. until we reach the Casapalma Brook. Here, the holm oaks have given way to bushes. We follow the trail until we reach a spring, the last sign before we get to the Hundidero. CONVENTION BUREAU THROUGH THE SIERRA DE CAMAROLOS RANGE TO THE HUNDIDERO The journey begins at the foot of the famous Hundidero of the Sierra de Camarolos range, a favourite place among hikers and a well-known mountain in the province due to the prehistoric remains found on its slopes. In order to reach this point, you Hill have to find a dirt road coming after a detour to the left on the motorway connecting Colmenar with the De Alazores Pass. If you go by car on the motorway before going hiking, you must take note around the 500km point. The detour is just after this point. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 33 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 34 THROUGH THE SIERRA DE CAMAROLOS RANGE TO THE HUNDIDERO TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Routes and excursions End of route Itinerary Road District border . . Routes and excursions . . Colmenar Colmenar Beginning of route 34 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 35 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 36 TOURIST BOARD & Antequera. The landscape, therefore, somewhat reflects these regions, with limestone areas –typical of Antequera– in which the rocky terrain predominates over vegetation, and other less rugged areas with olive groves, grain field crops, and low bushes. The remains found in the district indicate that humans had already settled in the region in prehistoric times, which is only natural given the location of Colmenar, which must have been one of the ancient routes between the Axarquía and Montes de Málaga regions and the Del Guadalhorce Valley. This can be inferred from the remains found in the De las Pulseras Cave (Neolithic) and in the Cortijo de Gonzalo estate, near the De las Zorreras Brook (Metal Age). However, with the exception of a few coins and some pottery, there are no remains that indicate the presence of a city or fortress from the Roman era, although it would not be surprising if sooner or later some evidence of this kind came to light –at least of a Roman villa– as there are a few in places not far from Colmenar. There are no ruins of buildings from the times of Arabic rule either, although a very interesting relic was found –a slate coin mould found in the Cortijo de las Guájaras country estate. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Colmenar . Routes and excursions . Unless the traveller is in the north of the province, the best way to arrive is to leave Málaga City and take the A-6103, commonly known as the Carretera de Colmenar (Colmenar Road). It is the old road that used to be the only way to get to the inland of Andalusia (Seville, Córdoba, Granada) and the rest of Spain. The road is an uninterrupted succession of curves, but it is worth taking it due to the view of the Málaga Bay and the Montes de Málaga mountains it affords. Another Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions HOW TO GET THERE Routes and excursions 36 Later, it would become head of the judicial district of several neighbouring villages. . We do know, though, that in 1488, the warden of Comares purchased the Colmenar farmstead, and in the middle of the sixteenth century (1558), the place is referred to in documents as “Señorío de Colmenar,” meaning fiefdom of Colmenar, the ownership of which was the cause of many lawsuits for years, until the village managed to gain its independence in 1777. Surface area: 65.50km2. Population: Around 3,700. Name given to the local people: Colmenareños. Nickname: Tinajeros. Location: Northern part of the Montes de Málaga mountainous region, bordering with the Axarquía and the Antequera regions. The village is almost 700m above sea level, 35km away from the capital of the province and 44 from Vélez-Málaga. The average annual rainfall is 765 l/m2, and the average annual temperature reaches 16.5°C. What to see: Santísima Virgen de la Candelaria Chapel (Holy Virgin of Candelaria), Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church (Our Lady of the Assumption), De la Cruz Gate. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza de España, 9 (29170). Tel.: (+34) 952 730 000. Fax: (+34) 952 731 068. Colmenar Colmenar's history did not truly commence until Vélez-Málaga was taken by the Christians in 1487. According to the historian Vázquez de Otero, “when the Catholic Monarchs took over Málaga and its territories, Colmenar did not exist as a village proper, it was an estate like many others...” USEFUL INFORMATION CONVENTION BUREAU The district stretches between the Axarquía and the Montes de Málaga regions, and also borders with the mountains of 37 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:01 PÆgina 38 TOURIST BOARD & WHAT TO SEE In the highest part of town sits the chapel of the shrine or Convent of the Santísima Virgen de la Candelaria (Holy Virgin of Candelaria), patron of Colmenar, which was built in the seventeenth century and later renovated several times. It has only one nave and a quadrangular presbytery with a vault decorated with plasterwork, Inspired by the Mannerist style, but undoubtedly a popular creation. In the altar, there is a statue of the patron of the district. The Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church (Our Lady of the Assumption) dates from the sixteenth The De la Cruz Gate welcomes travelers arriving in Colmenar. The monument is a monolith placed under a bell gable. Its simple architecture includes the coat of arms of the village, in which there is a beehive and seven bees flying over it. The handover of the town from Hamet el Zuque to Francisco de Coalla –which took place on May 25, 1488– is also represented. the fandango). Besides, a tapas route is set up so that nobody leaves the village without tasting its produce. After a few years of neglect, the Easter celebrations have taken new life in Colmenar. At the moment, the only processional day is Good Friday, when Jesus of Nazareth (a statue by Palma Burgos, 1940) and the Virgin of Sorrows (Anonymous) are carried by their respective fraternities, the latter having its seat in the Asunción Church (Assumption). FOOD Several dishes can be considered typical of this district, notably, kid in sauce, fried kid with garlic, and naturally, the traditional plato de los Montes (dish of the mountains), which is a combination of pork loin, pork sausage, potatoes, pepper and fried egg. The most popular dishes of Colmenar include chickpea stew with bacon, broad beans omelette, gazpachuelo (a soup made of angler fish, clams, prawns, vegetables, cured ham and hard boiled egg), porra (a cold soup made of tomato, pepper, garlic, olive oil, bread and hard boiled eggs), and migas (a dish made with fried breadcrumbs). As for pastries, special mention should be made of borrachuelos (small fried cakes made with wine and dipped in honey), carne de membrillo (kind of quince preserve), roscos de vino and roscos de huevo (kinds of ringshaped pastries), as well as homemade madalenas (kind of cupcake). In addition, there is an excellent local must wine. FIESTAS Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . Colmenar Colmenar starts its festive calendar on February 2, day of the Virgin of Candelaria, the patron of the village. On that day, the image of the virgin is carried in procession to her chapel. On May 3, the village has two festivities, that of the crosses and that of the pipa, the name given to broad beans. It is customary to go picnicking in the country on that day. On the eve of St. John, it is the turn of the Júas (rag dolls representing evil), which are burnt, much to the joy of the younger ones. For Christmas, it is still customary to organise pastorales, a choir of friends –men and women– who dress up especially for the occasion and sing Christmas carols, and other holiday songs. Colmenar . The Fiesta of Grape Juice and Cold Cuts is held in December as a tribute to the typical products of the district of Colmenar. Thousands of people come to the village and are welcomed with musical performances of all kinds, a flamenco recital and the dancing and singing of verdiales (popular dance of Andalusia similar to Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 38 and seventeenth centuries, and follows the usual patterns –it is divided in three naves separated with semicircular arches resting on square-section pillars. Of the three small chapels of the church, the one on the Epistle Side stands out due to its almost exuberant Baroque style (eighteenth century). On the exterior, the three-level bell tower can be appreciated. CONVENTION BUREAU possibility is to take the motorway to Antequera (N-331) and, after Casabermeja, take the A-356. The landscape is also very beautiful, especially after leaving the motorway. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 39 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 40 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU The trip starts at the De Gaviarra Pass, the junction of the Vuelta Grande, Collado, and Casa de la Mina passes, from where we go northwest until we reach old Dolores’ Inn or María Tavern. From this Inn, we follow the old muledriving road, which coincides with the cattle track called Granada Road. CASA DE LA MINA PRADILLOS TRAIL . cÓMPETA Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions It is advisable to take the firewall path in order to enjoy the panoramic views of the sea and the Del Mirlo gully. We may also spot Spanish ibexes on the way. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 40 Routes and excursions Length: 5km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: De Gaviarra Pass (Cómpeta). End of route: Pradillos (Cómpeta). Itinerary: De Gaviarra Pass (Cómpeta), Dolores’ Inn or María Tavern, De los Pradillos Alley, De los Pradillos Inn, Cándido Inn, Del Daire hillock and El Tejar, Pradillos (Cómpeta). We then leave the main road and take a path that leads deep into the province of Granada, and will take us through the Del Daire hillock and El Tejar. Upon reaching this point, we have two possibilities: we can either take the hillock slopes following the firewall path or the Juan Rojo gully. . . TECHNICAL DATA After a few metres from here, we reach the De los Pradillos Inn, recently acquired by the Town Hall of Cómpeta in order to supply water to the city. We continue to the Cándido Inn –also unoccupied and almost in ruins– and look for the spring source, a few metres away, in order to quench our thirst. Cómpeta Cómpeta CASA DE LA MINA PRADILLOS TRAIL The district of Cómpeta –on the slopes of the Sierra de Almijara range in the northeast of the Axarquía region– offers magnificent trekking routes, such as the one we are about to describe, from Casa de la Mina to Pradillos. It is an easy trip in which we cover 5km in a circular way, in about 2 hours. After walking non-stop for 2 kilometres, we reach the De los Pradillos Alley, where nature placed rocks at both sides of the path making it look like an alley. Here we take a break to enjoy the view: the Juan Rojo cliff, the Cerro Verde hill, and the Atalaya viewing point (which is a landmark from many places). Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 41 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 42 CASA DE LA MINA - PRADILLOS TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border District border Cómpeta Cómpeta Nature Reserve border Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 42 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 43 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 44 TOURIST BOARD & has to agree that the nickname “Cornice of the Mediterranean” suits the place perfectly well. Indeed, the villages' whitewashed buildings extend over a landscape crowned by the Tejeda and Almijara ranges in search of the Mediterranean through hills and vineyards in which its famous wine is produced. One of the most representative images of the Axarquía region that will prevail in the mind of visitors is, without a doubt, the one offered by this district. As is the case with many other towns of the Málaga province, there is no recorded history of Cómpeta until the fifteenth century. Given the characteristics of the land –the abundance of water, mountain shelters, mild temperatures, and connection routes to the Málaga and Granada provinces– it is more than likely that humans settled here in prehistoric times, although there is no evidence to support this hypothesis. The first written record of the name Cómpeta dates from 1487, when the mayor of Vélez –already under Christian control– urged the population to surrender to the new owners. This indicates that up until then, the region was no more than a farmstead. USEFUL INFORMATION Surface area: 54.70km2. Population: Around 4,000. Name given to the local people: Competeños. Location: Northeast of the Axarquía region, on the slopes of the Sierra de Almijara range, at 28km from Vélez-Málaga and 52km from the capital of the province. The village is at 640m above sea level. The average annual rainfall of the region is 630 l/m2, and the average annual temperature, 17.5°C. What to see: Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church (Our Lady of the Assumption), St. Anthony and St. Sebastian chapels. Tourist information: Tourist Office, Avda. de la Constitución, s/n (29754). Tel.: (+34) 952 516 25. Website: www.competa.es. CONVENTION BUREAU All the advertisements and slogans of the travel agencies respond to more or less verifiable facts, and it is the traveller who has to decide to what extent these advertisements or slogans are close to reality. In the case of Cómpeta, everyone HOW TO GET THERE Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cómpeta . Routes and excursions . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions A tour of the town centre is a must. Also here, the popular architecture unabashedly shows the unli- Routes and excursions 44 WHAT TO SEE . The village was virtually deserted and then repopulated by the Old Christians of Puente Genil, Estepa, Baena, Seville and other places previously conquered by the Christians. The marriage certificate from the first Old Christians' marriage celebrated in the village is still kept in the Parish Church. The year was 1573. Of the three ways available to get to Cómpeta (all from the Autovía del Mediterráneo motorway), perhaps the most interesting one is the detour taken at Torrox (A-6204). Going this way, the traveller will have the opportunity to visit Trayamar, an archaeological site of Paleo-Punic graves (seventh century B.C.) considered the most important of its kind in the Mediterranean region. You can also reach Cómpeta taking the road A6203 from Algarrobo through Sayalonga. Also, from Vélez-Málaga, you can take the MA-117, and after leaving Arenas, Daimalos, and Corumbela behind, you reach Cómpeta. Cómpeta The Moors of Cómpeta –like most of the Moors that populated the Axarquía region– joined forces with the rebels who established their stronghold in the Rock of Frigiliana –a place that would remain forever linked to the history of the Axarquía region for this reason– until they were defeated by the Christians on June 12, 1569. Although the Moorish rebels had many casualties, a few of them managed to escape and continued to pose a problem to the Christians for a while –but not for long– from the most unexpected places. 45 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 46 TOURIST BOARD & The town’s most remarkable building is the Nuestra Señora de la Asunción Church (Our Lady of the Assumption), built in the sixteenth century, and later restored. It has three naves divided by octagonal pillars. Inside, there is an imposing mural painted in 1972 by Francisco Hernández –an artist from Vélez– depicting the Assumption of the Virgin. The exterior was rebuilt after the earthquake of 1884, and its most remarkable feature is its four-level tower in Neo-Mudéjar style (1935). The uppermost level of this tower is a domed gazebo-like structure. The St. Anthony and St. Sebastian chapels –both from the eighteenth century– are good examples of the kind of religious buildings typical of their time. The simplicity of their lines, in spite of the prevailing Baroque style, and the lack of architectural pretension, enhance the religiousness of the place to the detriment of ornamental exuberance. starts at 7 a.m.. This celebration is also known as the Procession of Men, because only men take part in it. In the evening, It is the women's turn, who carry the statue of the Virgin Mary in the so-called Procession of Solitude or Procession of Women. year knowing that they will have fun, with shows and typical produce for everybody. Finally, albeit not in chronological order, special mention must be made of Wine Night (August 15), a celebration that took shape in 1975, although its origins are older. Back then, it was customary to throw a goodbye party before engaging in grape harvesting tasks. In the olden days, people used to dance fandangos, drink wine and liquor, and eat dried fruit until the early hours of the morning. As it is a wine producing region, we have no choice but to mention wines first up in this section. The muscatel, medium sweet and dry varieties are known inside and outside the province of Malaga. Nowadays, Wine Night is a full-blown folkloric festival to which thousands of visitors come every FOOD CONVENTION BUREAU kely solutions to its problems, which gives it its charm. A few of the houses still keep their basement levels, where they store equipment and tools. Though using the car is never advisable in these towns, in Cómpeta it is simply impossible, as many of its streets solve the problem of changes in level with stairs. As regards the cuisine, fennel stew and migas (a dish made with fried breadcrumbs) are the most typical dishes of the region. Loin fried with garlic, kid, country style variety meats, and Easter stews (made of chickpeas, potatoes, cod, and vegetables) round off the varied cuisine of Cómpeta. FIESTAS . Cómpeta Routes and excursions . On May 3 –the Day of the Cross– the locals go on foot to a place known as Mount of the Cross, where a picnic is organised. In Cómpeta, St. John’s Day is celebrated with a picnic in the country with relatives and friends. On September 6 and 7, bonfires are lit in different parts of town and surrounding areas. This is known as Bonfire Day, and ends with a small popular feast. Routes and excursions . One of the highlights of Holy Week is the Stations of the Cross enactment, on Good Friday, which Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 46 Cómpeta On January 20 –the day of the patron saint of the town, St. Sebastian– a neighbourhood fair is held next to the Saint’s chapel. The neighbours take the image of the Saint in a procession after a picnic lunch. In February, on St. Blaise’s Day, the Parish Church gives a blessing of the roscas (a doughnut-like pastry). People still thread the doughnut with a string after it has been blessed and hang it around their necks because tradition states that this will prevent throat disorders. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 47 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 48 TOURIST BOARD & . cORTES FROM LA SAUCEDA TO THE VICINITY OF DEL ALJIBE PEAK CANYONEERING AT THE DE BUITRERAS GORGE Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 48 From this point, without straying from the trail there is only an esplanade, only a thick bush area separates you from the Del Aljibe Peak, 1,092m high. Routes and excursions Length: 12km Estimated time: 4 hours. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: La Sauceda (Cortes de la Frontera). End of route: Del Aljibe Peak (Cortes de la Frontera). Itinerary: La Sauceda (Cortes de la Frontera), Del Roble Pass, Sillita de la Reina, Del Aljibe Peak (Cortes de la Frontera). From here, you can continue in several directions, as you will have clear esplanades in front of you that will convince you it is an easy path. However, as the path is no longer marked, it is easy to get lost. It’s better to go on foot keeping to your lefthand side until you reach Sillita de la Reina, a nice scrub area. If you want to rest, this is a particularly good spot to do so, as there is a beautiful panoramic view. . . TECHNICAL DATA If you follow the path straight on, you’ll reach the Del Roble mountain pass, from where you will have to go uphill a few metres more until the trail starts going downhill. Cortes de la Frontera Cortes de la Frontera DE LA FRONTERA The history of La Sauceda is a mixture of fact and oral tradition. Nowadays, it is a small place where there is a camping area and a chapel that can be the starting point of several excursions, but in the past, it served as a shelter for the local bandits. La Sauceda is surrounded by lands belonging to the province of Cádiz, and it is located at 58km from Algeciras, but it is within the limits of the district of Cortes de la Frontera, which belongs to the province of Málaga. CONVENTION BUREAU FROM LA SAUCEDA TO THE VICINITY OF DEL ALJIBE PEAK The route starts at the houses of La Sauceda, following a path along a brook that serves as a water source for the village. It is advisable to start the trip at a leisurely pace enjoying the surroundings, as this is one of the most exciting ecological areas that we will find along the way. If you do not know the chapel, this is the perfect time to visit it, but you will have to take a detour to the right. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 49 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 50 FROM LA SAUCEDA TO THE VICINITY OF DEL ALJIBE PEAK TOURIST BOARD & Cortes de la Frontera Cortes de la Frontera Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 50 CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border District border Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 51 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 52 TOURIST BOARD & Going down the canyon is feeling nature to the fullest. Canyoneering combines techniques from mountain climbing and cave exploration, although water is a key element. When the water level is low, this sport can include trips on the river, but when is high, it can turn into a veritable white water experience. The De Buitreras Gorge is the result of the erosion of the Guadiaro River on the Sierra de Grazalema and Sierra de Ronda ranges. This place is part of the Los Alcornocales Nature Park, which extends over territories of the provinces of Difficulty: moderate to strenuous Beginning of route: Estación de Gaucín (Cortes de la Frontera) Location: Cortes de la Frontera, Benalauría and Benarrabá Any time of year can be good (always taking into account the rainfall and the river level), but July and August are usually the sport fans’ favourite months and the most recommended in the Costa del Sol. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes and excursions . . TECHNICAL DATA Going down canyons is not an activity in which difficulty can be categorised as a constant value. Although each canyon has its own technical difficulties, these can be intensified or diminished according to the exact moment at which the activity is being done (the water temperature will be lower in winter, the level of the river will be higher if it has been raining, and so on.) . Cortes de la Frontera The weather in this part of the Costa del Sol is not an obstacle for canyoneering, but one of the factors to be taken into account is the rainfall, as this can make the water level rise adding unnecessary risks to the sport. Routes and excursions Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The so-called De los Almenares Bridge marks the spot where the canyon walls gain height and the trail can become more difficult. From then on, the open galleries with almost direct sunlight alternate with dark stretches in which a headlight will be very useful. Along the route, you will be able to rappel down the cliffs, swim across the ponds and even jump off from one level to the next. . 52 The De Buitreras Gorge is not particularly difficult, but nevertheless, a few basic precautions have to be taken. The best thing about it is that it allows you to enjoy both the sport and the landscape. If you come to the canyon at the exit of the first long tunnel we found on the path, you’ll have to swim the first stretch, so it’s useful to have your swimsuit at hand, if you’re not already wearing it. Cortes de la Frontera Access to the De Buitreras Gorge is gained through El Colmenar, also known as Estación de Gaucín. The actual entrance is located at the stretch that connects this point with the Cortes de la Frontera village. If you come by car from Málaga, the best thing to do is to take the motorway that runs along the coast up to the Sabinillas village, and there, take the A-377 towards Manilva-Casares until you reach Gaucín. Málaga and Cádiz (to the west). The best village to gain access to this area is El Colmenar. CONVENTION BUREAU CANYONING AT THE DE BUITRERAS GORGE At this point, you will start seeing narrow tunnels that connect straight to the canyon entrance, but it is forbidden to go through them because it’s very dangerous. There are several places from which you can access the canyon and start the descent (one follows a path along the river; another is reached after climbing the mountain cut through by the tunnels...). In any case, the guides will decide the best way to reach the gorge, depending on the river flow and the level of expertise of the hikers. 53 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 54 CANYONEERING AT THE DE BUITRERAS GORGE TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border District border Nature Park border Cortes de la Frontera Cortes de la Frontera Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 54 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 55 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 56 TOURIST BOARD & 50,000 ha, respectively) converge at the Cortes de la Frontera district, giving the area an ama- zingly rich environment, which to the visitor’s eye means a truly remarkable landscape. The great cork oak forests that cover a large part of these lands extend to the province of Cádiz, but before going beyond the borders of the province of Málaga, these woods have given shape to places that, without over-exaggerating, are like paradise The place called La Sauceda, the cliffs of Las Buitreras, together with the area called El Colmenar, are only a few examples of nature’s generosity towards this district. La Sauceda is perfectly equipped for camping, so you can take your time to enjoy the environment, and Las Buitreras –more difficult to get to– rewards your efforts with a spectacular scenery: the Guadiaro River encased by over 100m high walls. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Cortes de la Frontera . Routes and excursions . Due to its origins, the village has a strikingly different urban structure compared to the other highland villages, of Moorish legacy. Besides, Cortes de la Frontera has the peculiarity of having three town centres (something that is not an exclusive trait in the province of Málaga, but it’s uncommon nevertheless). There is a main centre, which is Cortes de la Frontera itself, then there’s El Colmenar, and thirdly, La Cañada or Estación de Cortes. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The present location of the village is more recent, having its origins in the seventeenth century. It was then when cork extraction gained importance –one of the main sources of income of the village, and still today, one of the pillars of Cortes de la Frontera’s economy. Routes and excursions 56 in towns that have “de la Frontera” (of the border) as part of their names. . The Moors fought the Visigoths in these lands in 711, in a place that can still be recognised, according to some researchers. When Almanzor died, in 1002, Cortes belonged alternatively to the kingdoms of Seville and Granada, even to those of Ronda and Algeciras. Ferdinand III the Saint, of Castile conquered the village in 1248, but afterwards, the town was taken again by the Moors until, in 1485, the Marquis of Cádiz, Rodrigo Ponce de León, took it in the name of the Catholic Monarchs. These oscillations weren’t uncommon Surface area: 173.60km2. Population: Around 3,700. Name given to the local people: Cortesanos. Location: At the western end of the province of Málaga, on the Serranía de Ronda mountains, bordering with the province of Cádiz. The village is 600m above sea level, 30km from Ronda, 20km from Benaoján, and 159km from the capital of the province. The average annual rainfall is high (1,160 l/m2) and the average annual temperature is just over 16°C. What to see: Town Hall, Nuestra Señora del Rosario Church (Our Lady of the Rosary), Casa de los Valdenebros, Bullring, Casa de Piedra. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza Carlos III, 1 (29380); Tel: (+34) 952 154 000. Fax: (+34) 952 154 342. Cortes de la Frontera Apparently, the origins of Cortes de la Frontera go back to the twelfth and eleventh centuries B.C. when the Phoenicians came to this area, and the Tartessians were already settled. Centuries later, the Greeks came, but only fleetingly so to speak, as they generally did on the Andalusian coasts. And after the Greeks came the Romans, from whom we have enough evidence –the remains of the town of Saepona, 28km from the village, and the ruins of Cortes el Viejo, only 2km from the village, in a place where a good stretch of the Guadiaro River can be viewed. USEFUL INFORMATION CONVENTION BUREAU L os Alcornocales and Sierra de Grazalema Nature Parks (of 170,000 ha and 57 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:02 PÆgina 58 TOURIST BOARD & Holy Week and Corpus Christi religious celebrations follow. From August 23 to 27, the patron saint celebrations in homage to St. Roch and St. Sebastian are held, including contests, dancing, a cattle fair and, most importantly, the release of the “liquor bull,” one of the most popular traditions of the village. From the Costa del Sol, take the AP-7 (N-340) motorway, and then the A-377 at Manliva, up to Gaucín. You then have to continue on the A-369 and, after 7 kilometres, you take the detour that leads to Cortes (A-373). If you start at the city of Ronda, go south on the A-369, and after leaving Algatocín behind, take the A-373. Although there are records of the existence of the Vera Cruz Fraternity (called the moraos or purple) in the seventeenth century –from which the Padre Jesús Fraternity (called the coloraos or red) stemmed– which curiously enough carried the same Virgin in procession, the Holy Week of Cortes doesn’t have a very long history. The most significant ceremony of the Passion Week in Cortes takes place on Maundy Thursday, when the images of Jesus of Nazareth and the Virgin meet at the Town Hall square, in an act in which the three falls of Christ are enacted. . Routes and excursions . The Casa de Piedra (stone house) dates from the sixth and seventh centuries, and –as its name suggests– was carved into solid rock. Being such a primitive building method, its fine detail is remarkable. The Del Paso Tower was built in the thirteenth century to keep watch of the road the goes from Gaucín to Ubrique through the Del Espino Pass. It’s a simple watchtower of functional architecture. FIESTAS Carnival –attended by street musicians and masquerades from the province of Cádiz– is the first secular celebration of the village, to which the Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The culinary tradition of this village is as varied as it is tasty and, like in the majority of the mountain villages, there are summer and winter dishes. Nowadays, however, this distinction is observed in the calendar rather than in the kitchen. The delicious traditional cuisine of the region includes venison stew, mountain lamb, asparagus sautéed with eggs, veal cortesana, cod omelet, cocido refrito (fried bread, tomato, garlic, pepper, and onion), Swiss chard stew, migas (a dish made with fried breadcrumbs), and Guadiar rabbit, among many others. The sweet dishes here are also numerous. Just to give an idea of the long list of desserts that Cortes de la Frontera has to offer, we can mention mille-feuille, meringue, roscones (a kind of doughnut), suspiros (a pastry), quince compote, homemade madalenas (a kind of cupcake), torrijas (type of French toast), and grapes in liquor. Routes and excursions The Casa de los Valdenebros, also known as Casa de las Tetitas, has a beautiful stone façade dated 1763, with the coat of arms of its old owner, a military man who ascended to nobility. The mansion still has an underground passage that goes to the old chapel of Valdenebros, which has a Baroque-Múdejar façade built in 1760. FOOD . 58 The Nuestra Señora del Rosario Church (Our Lady of the Rosary) stands in the centre of town and dates from the end of the eighteenth century. It has three naves separated by semicircular arches. The central nave is covered in a half-barrel vault, and the transept, by a lantern dome. On the outside, two flat stone façades and the bell tower, next to the sanctuary, can be appreciated. The bullring opened in 1894 and was restored in 1921. With an arena of almost 30 metres in diameter, it’s the second bullring of the highlands for its size, after the one of Ronda, of course. The reason why a small town like Cortes has such a big bullring lies in its intensive stock-breeding activity. Cortes de la Frontera Cortes de la Frontera WHAT TO SEE In contrast to what usually happens in other towns with less than 10,000 people, where the main building is the Parish Church, in Cortes de la Frontera, the most outstanding building is the Town Hall. Its construction was commissioned by Charles III in 1784. Its Neoclassic façade has ten arches arranged into two storeys and crowned by a big pediment with a clock and the royal coat of arms. The modesty of the building materials –sandstone ashlars– does not diminish the architectural elegance of the building in the least. At the beginning of July, the Pilgrimage of the Virgin of the Rosary –the patron of Cortes– takes place, and a few days afterwards, is the Pilgrimage of the Horse’s turn. El Colmenar holds its patron celebrations the last week of July, and La Cañada, the first week in August, so the district is rich in celebrations in the summer. CONVENTION BUREAU HOW TO GET THERE 59 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 60 TOURIST BOARD & FROM EL BURGO THROUGH THE ROUTE OF THE BROOKS . eL BURGO FROM EL BURGO THROUGH THE ROUTE OF THE BROOKS TECHNICAL DATA Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The definite signal that our trail is coming to an end are the olive groves. After walking on a straight line a few more metres, we’ll have to take a wide bend along horticultural areas and then turn right until we see the bridge of El Burgo. Routes and excursions A few metres further, we’ll start going downhill and at the Cortijo de Buenavista, the De la Higuera and Del Sabinar brooks converge. We continue the descent until we get to the Turón River bank, which means we’re close to El Burgo again. Length: 21km Estimated time: 9 hours. Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Beginning of route: road C-344 from El Burgo to Yunquera. End of route: El Burgo. Itinerary: road C-344 from El Burgo to Yunquera (El Burgo), Turón River bridge, bridge over De la Fuensanta Brook, De La Fuensanta recreational area, stone cross, Cortijo de Buenavista, De la Higuera and Del Sabinar Brooks, Turón River bank, El Burgo. . 60 The spring will guide us to a crossroads. We’ll see an old stone cross there. We’ll turn right and start going uphill. This climb is virtually the most difficult part of the journey. Don’t miss the panoramic views of the Valley of Lifa, and on sunny days, look at the Peñón de Ronda rock and the Peña de los Enamorados crag, looking towards the Sierra de las Nieves range. El Burgo El Burgo LA FUENSANTA–TURÓN RIVER TRAIL It’s a long circular route that begins and ends at the village of El Burgo. It’s a good trail for hikers who are trained, though it can be undertaken by anybody if taken calmly as a long-day stroll. The panoramic views between the De la Fuensanta Brook and the Turón River are very pleasant and the variety of the vegetation makes it a favourite route for mountain bikers. CONVENTION BUREAU Although there are several starting points, one of the best is on the road C344, coming out of the village of El Burgo towards Yunquera. This way, you cross the bridge over the Turón River, and after walking 2km, you cross another bridge, this time over the De la Fuensanta Brook. The path that goes along the brook, which is surrounded by gorgeous vegetation, will be our reference point. We’ll continue on it for about 1,500 metres until we get to the La Fuensanta tree nursery, and the recreational area that bears the same name. As the route is quite long, it’s recommended to take a break here: a place by the river, with a pleasant water spring behind, and numerous shady areas, under poplar trees. 61 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 62 FROM EL BURGO THROUGH THE ROUTE OF THE BROOKS TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road District border Nature Park border El Burgo El Burgo . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions 62 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 63 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 64 TOURIST BOARD & This trail starts by the petrol station located in the village of El Burgo, taking the road A-344 towards Yunquera. It’s ideal to do by bike, as it’s 21km long and can be done in three hours by people who go cycle in the mountains regularly. TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . Legend has it that the daughter of a Muslim mayor of Archidona set her beloved free. He was a Christian from Antequera who was imprisoned for sullying her skin with Christian hands. When he was free, they both eloped to the mountains. The Muslim troops went after them. When the lovers found themselves trapped, they decided that jumping off the cliff was Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes and excursions 64 From the same viewing point, but looking towards the Sierra de las Nieves range, we can see the Peñón de Ronda rock, the Tajos de Palancar cliffs, and the Peña de los Enamorados crag, and also the Turón River flanked by pine woods. These river bank woods are among the best preserved in the province. . Length: 21km Estimated time: 3 hours by bike. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: El Burgo petrol station. End of route: El Burgo. Itinerary: El Burgo petrol station, Turón River bridge, bridge over De la Fuensanta Brook, tree nursery, recreational area of the old mill of La Fuensanta, La Rejertilla environmental complex, De la Mujer Pass, road along the Turón River, El Burgo. From the De la Mujer Pass, we go downhill on a trail full of big holm oaks, from which the confluence of two big brooks can bee seen –they are the De la Higuera and De Sabinar brooks. Further down below, the trail runs along the Turón River, and eventually turns into the path that leads to El Burgo, where you can enjoy the farms and farmhouses of the market garden area. El Burgo El Burgo After crossing the bridge over the Turón River, we travel 2km until we reach a detour to the right that crosses the bridge over the La Fuensanta Brook, lined with willows, osiers, and gall oaks. We then go into a field lined with tall pines that runs parallel to the brook, with lush bank vegetation. Here, we have the alternative of travelling about 3km straight ahead until we reach the Los Sauces recreational and camping area, and then come back. In any case, we have to take a detour to the left, and climb a steep path until we get to the De la Mujer Pass, an excellent viewing point from which we can enjoy great panoramic views of the Turón River and the wide De Lifa Valley, with an impressive steep cliff crowned with an old Arabian tower, which is surrounded by turpentine trees whose leaves turn to beautiful reddish hues in autumn and spring. the only way of sealing their love. From then on, that giant crag has been known as the Peña de los Enamorados (the lovers’ crag). CONVENTION BUREAU LA FUENSANTA - TURÓN RIVER TRAIL After travelling 1.5km, we find a tree nursery that produces the seedlings for reforestation of public woodlands. Later on, we get to the recreational area of the old mill of La Fuensanta, which has been turned into a hostel and is located in a beautiful place full of poplar trees where there’s also a country estate of the same name. If we follow the route, we get to the environmental complex La Rejertilla, and further ahead, to a fork in the road with a Galician-style stone cross. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 65 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 66 LA FUENSANTA - TURÓN RIVER TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road District border El Burgo El Burgo Nature Park border Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 66 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 67 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 68 TOURIST BOARD & With regard to the origins of the village, there are a number of contradicting theories based on information that no one can agree upon. For some, the name of the village comes from Paurgus, the Greek word for tower. Others are inclined towards a Celtic origin, Baurgs. Some are certain that the word comes from the Arabic borch, which also means tower. . Routes and excursions . In 1485, El Burgo surrendered to the Catholic Monarchs, as did the other villages of the region. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents The most advisable way to get to El Burgo (there are several) is from Málaga City, where you have to take the A-357 towards Campillos. When you get to Ardales, take the MA-446, which further ahead is called MA-445 and will take you directly to El Burgo. WHAT TO SEE The building of highest artistic value of El Burgo is the De la Encarnación Church (Incarnation). It’s located in the upper part of the village, where Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . From the top of the hills down, the rocky terrain yields astonishingly beautiful landscapes, like the Valley of Lifa cliff or Los Sauces, a place acces- HOW TO GET THERE Routes and excursions Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions gall oaks and pine woods that shroud the lower half of the mountain slopes. Under the reign of Philip II, the village was privileged with tax exemption, in recognition of the courage shown by its warriors. . 68 One of the roads to Ronda passes through El Burgo, a district on the Turón River that is one of gates open to the highlands. The lands close to the village are flatter, meaning olive trees and grains can be grown, although to a great extent, the district lands are covered by During Muslim rule, El Burgo –together with other villages of the area– was part of the domains of Umar ibn Hafsun, who in the eleventh century fought against the Caliphate of Córdoba. The fortress built back then, which today is known as Atalaya de Cornicabra, was one of the most important strongholds of the area against the troops of the Caliphate, in whose hands it fell after the death of Ibn Hafsun. During the time of the Taifas Kingdoms, the village belonged to Ronda, and afterwards, to Málaga and Granada. Surface area: 118.60km2. Population: Around 2,050. Name given to the local people: Burgueños. Location: in the region of Sierra de las Nieves, bordering on both Antequera and the Guadalhorce Valley. The village is almost 600 metres above sea level, lying 27 kilometres from Ronda. Average annual rainfall: 621 litres/m2. Average annual temperature: around 15º C. What to see: De la Encarnación Church (Incarnation), Church of the Virgen de las Nieves Convent (Our Lady of the Snows), St. Augustine’s Church, Bridge of Málaga, mill of La Fuensanta, St. Sebastian’s Chapel. Tourist information: Town Hall, C/ Real, 22 (29420). Tel.: (+34) 952 160 277. Fax: (+34) 952 160 180 El Burgo El Burgo It’s very likely, however, that El Burgo was first a Celtic citadel and then subsequently occupied by the many civilisations that inhabited these lands. In the course of history, the Carthaginians erected a watchtower called Hannibal’s Tower, and the Romans, in Trajan times –who had been born in the neighbouring city of Italica– gave the village imperial privileges, as it was an unavoidable route for their legions. At the De los Empedrados Pass, there are still traces of the ancient cobblestone road that linked Acinipo with Málaga. USEFUL INFORMATION CONVENTION BUREAU sible through the forest track of the Nuestra Señora de las Nieves Convent (Our Lady of the Snows), a name which alludes to the Sierra de las Nieves range. This area, including the district of El Burgo, was declared a Biosphere Reserve. 69 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 70 TOURIST BOARD & The Church of the Virgen de las Nieves, in the Carmelite Convent of the Virgin of the Snows, outside the village, was built in the middle of the sixteenth century, and later rebuilt in the eighteenth century. It’s a simple building of a single nave, in which an oil mill operated in the nineteenth century, after the religious order left the place due to the Mendizábal Ecclesiastical Confiscation. . The Carnival, also in February, has a long-established tradition in this village. From August 26 to 30, the patron saint celebrations are held, honouring St. Augustine. On Easter Sunday, the burning of the júas takes place, a tradition that the rest of the villages of Málaga leave for the eve of St. John. The procession of the Virgen de la Fuensanta (August 4) is another very popular celebration. FOOD The cuisine of this village is as varied as it is wholesome. Common dishes include caldereta (a meat stew), asparagus stew, Sabandoña stew, broad beans pipeo (a vegetable stew with almonds), and kid. Also popular are the siete remales soup (made with bread and vegetables), golden thistle omelet, olla (a stew), migas (a dish made with fried breadcrumbs), codfish cakes, onion gazpacho (a cold soup). The gazpacho is eaten mainly in the summer months. As for pastries, the town offers roscos tontos (a kind of doughnut), dough cake, and oil roscos (kind of doughnut). 70 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions The Week of the People (February 24 to 28) is one of the most popular celebrations held in El Burgo. The events, organized by the Town Hall and the Costa del Sol Tourist Board, consist of lectures, plays, dancing contests, and musical performances. . St. Sebastian’s Chapel –built next to the cemetery at the end of the fifteenth century– retains its original gate, in Late Gothic style. It seems that the small and simple temple was built in homage to St. Sebastian, because Isabella the Catholic Queen was a devoted follower of the Saint. FIESTAS El Burgo El Burgo St. Augustine’s Church (1952) houses the images of St. Augustine, the Immaculate Conception, and the Sacred Heart. The Bridge of Málaga is on the road to Ardales, a construction that retains some elements of the Roman era. The waterfall of the dam and mill of La Fuensanta, from the eighteenth century, are of historical and scenic interest. CONVENTION BUREAU the old fortress used to be, from which only fragments of their walls remain. The church was built in 1505, but was later renovated on several occasions. It was designed in Mudéjar style, to which elements of later times were added. It has three naves separated by arches. On the exterior there are Mudéjar and a Baroque façades, from the end of the eighteenth century. The tower is crowned with a hipped roof. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 71 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 72 PATRONATO DE TURISMO & FRIGILIANA - FUENTE DEL ESPARTO SPRING TRAIL . fRIGILIANA Once through the scrub area, we get into a pine wood, on a track surrounded by vegetation rich in junipers, spurge olives and buckthorns, which results in a greater biodiversity, especially birds such as eagles, goshawks, and falcons. The Chíllar River and its tributary, the Higuerón, produce one of the most beautiful natural spots of the area, and together with the cliffs and gorges of the Chíllar, make up a truly astonishing landscape. Around one hour later, we get to the Chíllar River canyon. With only 17km long, it carries water all year round, except in the last 5km where it's dry, as it irrigates the market gardens of Nerja, on top of supplying water and electricity to the village of the same name. In spite of being so short, the canyon offers extraordinary beauty with its dainty waterfalls, refreshing natural pools, vegetation and cahorros. The cahorros are narrow passes in the ravine with vertical walls and drops of more than 300m, including the Tajo del Almendrón, the Pico Nido de Buitres, and the Tajo del Sol. . TECHNICAL DATA Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes and excursions . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The descent to the Chíllar River can be done in fifteen minutes. In this beautiful place we should take a break, have some water and regain our strength. After that, we follow the path uphill until we get to Del Apretadero Pass, where after a ten minute walk, we'll find the Del Esparto Spring at one side of the track, which marks the end of the route. Routes and excursions Length: 5.5km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Beginning of route: Civil Guard barracks (Frigiliana). End of route: Del Esparto Spring (Nerja) Itinerary: Civil Guard barracks (Frigiliana), Higuerón River, Batán Reservoir, Cruz del Pinto hill, Chíllar River Canyon, Del Apretadero Pass, Del Esparto Spring (Nerja). . 72 After a long climb, we get to Cruz del Pinto, a small hill with a cross ornamented on a small chapel at the top, from which a great panoramic view of the Mediterranean, the Sierra Almijara range and the northern part of the Higuerón River ravine can be enjoyed. After this hard climb, the terrain is easier for the most part of the trail, though there is scant vegetation due to a fire from which the land hasn't yet recovered. Frigiliana Frigiliana FRIGILIANA - FUENTE DEL ESPARTO SPRING TRAIL The village of Frigiliana is located on the eastern part of the Axarquía region, in the south of the Sierra de Tejeda range, bordering on Cómpeta to the northwest, with Torrox to the west, and with Nerja to the south. The region features a complex relief, full of contrasts, with peaks well over 1,000m, like the Sierra de Enmedio range, reaching 1,164m. Batán Resevoir and then there's a steep cliff climb. The route is 5.5km long and takes about 2 hours. CONVENTION BUREAU The route starts near the "El Ingenio" building (the sugar mill), an iconic place due to its industrial history, which is at the right hand side of the Civil Guard barracks. From there, we go down to the Higuerón River, by the 73 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 74 TOURIST BOARD & Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Routes and excursions . The battle of Peñón de Frigiliana has been represented as a blind’s man´s ballad on glazed ceramic panels created by Amparo Ruiz de Luna, which can be seen in several parts of town. From that date on, until the nineteenth century, Frigiliana suffered misfortune after misfortune –either a plague decimating the population, or a storm destroying the crops, or an earthquake, or the phylloxera infesting the grapevines, or an outbreak of yellow fever that ravaged the population. It was only with the arrival of tourism that Frigiliana, like the rest of the Costa del Sol, entered a booming era. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions On May 28, 1569, the mayor of Vélez launched the first assault with the unfortunate outcome of 20 dead and 150 wounded among the Christians. Just at that time, 25 galleys of the Spanish tercios of Italy were sailing the Mediterranean, and Vélez asked for their help in crushing the rebels of Frigiliana. This time, 6,000 men fought the Moors, who in spite of their fierce resistance, were defeated on June 11, 1569. There were 2,000 dead among the Moors, and 3,000 were taken prisoners (2,000 ran away). On the Christian side, 400 soldiers died and 800 were injured. Routes and excursions The Chíllar River marks the boundary between the districts of Frigiliana and Nerja, and its tributary, the Higuerón River, at the so called Gorges of the Higuerón River, gives these lands one of the most beautiful natural spots of the area, which together with the cliffs and gorges of the Chíllar, make up a truly astonishing landscape. The remains found in 1987 in the De los Murciélagos Cave show the presence of man in this territory from the end of the Neolithic period (3000 B.C.) until the Chalcolithic period or Copper Age (2000 B.C.). From the Argaric culture that came later there is a menhir that shows that man also roamed the area in those days. And very near the village, at Cerrillo de las Sombras, there’s a necropolis that dates from Phoenician times (seventh and sixth centuries B.C.). But little by little, the Moors were stripped of the few rights they had been left (they farmed the worst lands, were forbidden to speak or write in their language and wear their customary clothes). Then the Moorish uprising in Las Alpujarras took place, which was brutally crushed by the Christians. The Moors of the Axarquía and Montes de Málaga regions, waiting for the help promised by Aben Humeya (Umayyad) from Las Alpujarras and also from the north of Africa, took shelter on the peak called El Fuerte (the fort), where approximately 7,000 of them gathered. Surface area: 40km2. Population: 2,834. Name given to the local people: Frigilianenses. Nickname: Aguanosos. Location: Eastern part of the Axarquía region, at the foothills of the Sierra de Almijara range. The village is more than 430m above sea level, 56km from the capital of the province, and only 6km from Nerja. The average annual rainfall of the area is around 600 l/m2, and the average annual temperature, 18°C. What to see: Iglesia de San Antonio, antiguo pósito, Palacio de los Condes de Frigiliana, Ermita del Ecce Homo, Murallas del Castillo de Lizar, Palacio del Apero, menhir (cultura del Algar), necrópolis fenicia. Tourist information: Town Hall, C/ Real, 80 (29788). Tel.: (+34) 952 534 261. Fax: (+34) 952 533 434 . 74 Part of the district of Frigiliana sits on the southern slope of the Sierra de Almijara range. This area shows a more complex relief, rich in contrast, with peaks not as high as the mountains but well over 1,000m high, as the Sierra de Enmedio range (1,164m), or very near that height, such as El Fuerte peak (976m). The old part of the village of Frigiliana is considered one of the best preserved in the province, as it keeps its original Moorish plan. Its chaotic layout –chaotic from a twenty-first century point of view– keeps the visitors in constant amazement. Unexpected architecture and streets, alleys, passages, stairs, flowers and plants in the most unlikely places offer the visitor a mixture of different aromas of unknown origin, ancient history in modern whitewash. And once out of the cosiness of the narrow streets, there’s the expanse of a superb landscape on the eastern Costa del Sol. Since the arrival of the Moors on the Iberian Peninsula, in 711, until the end of the ninth century, when the fortress was built, very little is known of the history of Frigiliana, except that it was under the leadership of Umar ibn Hafsun and that from the thirteenth to the Fifteenth centuries, it belonged to the Nasrid kingdom. The village surrendered to Christian troops in 1485, without any bloodshed. USEFUL INFORMATION Frigiliana Frigiliana It’s more than likely that travellers coming to Frigiliana for the first time have a preconceived idea of the village, because many clichés usually used to describe the typical Andalusian mountain village overlooking the sea have been used. In this case, however, all the clichés are true, but are superseded by an indescribable sensation that is difficult to explain, although easy to perceive. It can perhaps only be described as sheer fascination. The Romans settled here in 206 B.C. through treaties with the native population, and Frigiliana became part of Conventus de Gades. The name of the village is of Roman origin and derives from Frexinius (maybe some local character we know nothing about) plus the suffix –ana, which in Spanish indicates origin and property, that is, place or village of Frexinius. CONVENTION BUREAU The terraced market gardens that go down from the village towards the coastal area, between the dazzling white of the houses and the deep blue of the Mediterranean, are another characteristic feature of the area that will remain in the visitors’ memory for a long time. 75 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 76 TOURIST BOARD & Take the Autovía del Mediterráneo (A-7; N-340) towards Motril, and before getting to Nerja, take the MA-105, which leads straight to Frigiliana. WHAT TO SEE . Routes and excursions The patron Saint celebrations in homage to St. Sebastian take place at the beginning of the year, on January 20, but since 1967 they have been reduced to their religious character: a mass and a procession with the images of St. Sebastian, St. Anthony of Padua, and St. Anthony Abbot, as the popular celebrations have been transferred to St. Anthony of Padua’s Day, June 13, due to the weather conditions at that time of year. In February, during carnival time, there are theatrical and musical performances, and a night-time party is organised. May 1 is the Day of the Horse, and the celebrations take place at the Cañada del Ingenio dell, where people try the typical foodstuffs of the area, and afterwards attend a horse taming exhi- Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents FOOD Being so close to the coast and welcoming such large numbers of visitors resulted in the village cuisine including international dishes in addition to local specialties. The latter include kid served with different sauces, ajocolorao (a kind of soup), flour migas (a dish based on flour, water, oil and garlic), and Holy Week stews, made with cod. These dishes, together with egg and flour omelettes dipped in sugar-cane syrup (a highly appreciated product in the area), make up the most typical cuisine of Frigiliana. Arropía and marcochas, whose main ingredient is golden syrup, are the most traditional sweet dishes of the district, where sweet potato with sugar-cane syrup is also very popular. According to some historians, the muscatel wine produced in Frigiliana is famous since Roman times, no less! Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The Ecce Homo or Santo Cristo de la Caña (Holy Christ of the Cane) Chapel dates from the eighteenth century. It’s a very simple building with a single nave accessible through an atrium with a semicircular arch. In the upper part of town, fragments of the walls of the ninth-century Lizar Castle still stand. The entrance ramp to the fortress can also be seen. The Del Apero Palace (seventeenth century) used to be linked to the The most important day of the Holy Week is Good Friday, when the Parish Church stages Jesus’ death and his taking down from the cross, after which the procession of the Holy Sepulchre takes to the streets. However, the procession of the Virgin of Solitude is the most solemn –the streets are lit by the candles carried by women, which gives the town an unusual appearance. On June 13, St. Anthony of Padua’s Day, a pilgrimage is organised. The image of the Saint is taken on an oxcart to Pozo Viejo, a place by the Higuerón River, where the pilgrims gather to have a picnic in the coolness of the shady pines. The popular dancing contest, at the beginning of August, congregates numerous national and international folk groups who show their traditional dances at the village sports centre. At the beginning of September, the candle celebrations (Candelarias), bring old music to the beat of the zambombas and the almireces (traditional percussion instruments). Routes and excursions . FIESTAS St. Anthony’s Church is the most important religious building of Frigiliana. It was built in the seventeenth century and renovated in the eighteenth. It has three naves separated by pilasters, covered by a wooden framework. The transept is higher thanks to a lanterned dome. The temple houses an eighteenth-century statue of St. Anthony carved in polychromatic wood. On the outside, the church has a simple brick façade with a semicircular arch and a three-level bell tower. The royal silo of the old granaries is a building dating from the eighteenth century located in the old part of town. It has been turned into private housing, and only the arcades of the main façade of the old building remain. The Palace of the Counts of Frigiliana is an old mansion of the sixteenth century that was later turned into a sugar mill. It was built in Renaissance style, and takes up an area of 2,000m2. The ashlars of the façade Of the archaeological sites of Frigiliana, the aforementioned menhir, from the Argaric culture (1500 B.C.), located at the Mudéjar quarter, and the Phoenician necropolis, at Cerrillo de las Sombras, are the most important. bition. Two days after that, the villagers gather flowers, food and drink in preparation for May Crosses celebration, in which religious, culinary and folkloric traditions are combined to make a big popular night-time party at the Church’s Square. . 76 As the sugar mill is concerned, it’s worth mentioning that for many years, the Axarquía region based its economy on sugar production, which today has been replaced in part by tropical fruit growing. The sugar mill was the place where sugar cane was transformed into a readily edible product. sugar mill, though its original function was to serve as barn, stables, and farming tool storehouse. It has a rectangular floor plan and its rooms are placed around an internal patio. It houses the Archaeological Museum, which displays a series of Iberian-Phoenician tombs, among other artefacts. Frigiliana Frigiliana The old part of town, as we have already mentioned, is a gift to the eye that no one should miss. Perhaps tourism, especially in high season (from July to September), mars the enjoyment of the many characteristics of this village, but it’s the price one has to pay when tourists flock to a place. This doesn’t mean that the village is just a display for visitors. On the contrary, it’s a living town that was destined to share its eccentricities with people from all over the world, and still admirably preserves its cultural and historical heritage for those who know how to find it. belonged to the pulled-down Arabian castle of the area. CONVENTION BUREAU HOW TO GET THERE 77 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 78 FRIGILIANA - FUENTE DEL ESPARTO SPRING TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions . Routes and excursions Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 78 Frigiliana Frigiliana CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road District border Nature Reserve border Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 79 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:03 PÆgina 80 TOURIST BOARD & ROUTE FROM GENALGUACIL TO JUBRIQUE . gENALGUACIL ROUTE FROM GENALGUACIL TO JUBRIQUE The route runs through the beautiful landscape of Alto Genal Valley, among pines, cork oaks and a lush river bank vegetation. There are plenty of nightingales and robins in the area, and with a bit of luck, we may see a badger or two. ROUTE AROUND PEÑAS BLANCAS CONVENTION BUREAU Our path starts at Castañales Street, in the upper part of the town of Genalguacil. The trail goes through almond and cork oak orchards, and towards the coast, it offers an excellent panoramic view of the villages of Gaucín, Benarrabá, and Algatocín. At about 700 metres from the starting point, there’s a fork in the road. We must take the path on our right hand side and start the ascent. The vegetation gets thicker, especially when we get to the mountain pine woods. Further ahead, we get to a lovely spot with a spring, and 100m from there, we arrive at the Benajarón area, an ideal place to have a rest. From here, we can see the village of Jubrique. . . Genalguacil Genalguacil After only 200m, we get to another spring from where we can see the white houses of Benadalid across the Genal River. When we get to another fork in the road, we must take the path on the left and go through an abandoned olive grove. . 80 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Length: 5km Estimated time: 2 hours,30 minutes. Difficulty: easy to moderate. Beginning of route: Castañales Street (Genalguacil). End of route: Jubrique. Itinerary: Castañales Street (Genalguacil), area of Benajarón, Monardilla River, Jubrique. The trail continues downhill towards the Monardilla River, while through the holm oaks that dominate the landscape a valley opens up. This is a good place to take another rest before starting climbing towards Jubrique, as the initial ascent is very steep, at least along the first 800m. Routes and excursions Routes and excursions TECHNICAL DATA Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 81 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 82 ROUTE FROM GENALGUACIL TO JUBRIQUE TOURIST BOARD & Genalguacil Genalguacil CONVENTION BUREAU . . End of route Itinerary Road 82 . . District border Routes and excursions Routes and excursions Beginning of route Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 83 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 84 TOURIST BOARD & We keep to this trail for another 1.5km until we get to an esplanade, where we have to take the path on the left. If we can keep putting the same amount of effort into our climbing, we’ll get to the so- called Plazoleta del Genalguacil, a very nice spot to take a break. After leaving this place, we cross a wooden bridge and start going downhill until we get to the Peñas Blancas Pass. The last 2.5km afford beautiful panoramic views of the Costa del Sol and the Serranía de Ronda range. CONVENTION BUREAU After walking 150m from there, we get to a brook and a new forest trail that starts going up the mountain. We’ll soon know whether we are on the right track, as it’s a winding trail through nice pine woods. ROUTE AROUND PEÑAS BLANCAS This route will take us through one of the nicest places in the province to discover on foot. Besides, as it combines uphill and downhill stretches, it’s a wonderfully varied trail. Genalguacil Genalguacil After the Peñas Blancas Mountain Pass –where we have to leave our vehicles– a forest trail towards Genalguacil begins. We have to follow that path in a straight line until we get to the first crossroads, which is marked with a red and white barrier. TECHNICAL DATA . . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 84 Routes and excursions Length: 6km Estimated time: 3 hours. Difficulty: easy to moderate. Beginning of route: Peñas Blancas Mountain Pass (Genalguacil). End of route: Peñas Blancas (Genalguacil). Itinerary: Peñas Blancas Mountain Pass (Genalguacil), forest trail towards Genalguacil, Plazoleta de Genalguacil, Peñas Blancas (Genalguacil). Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 85 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 86 ROUTE AROUND PEÑAS BLANCAS TOURIST BOARD & . . Routes and excursions End of route Itinerary Road District border . . Routes and excursions Genalguacil Genalguacil CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route 86 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 87 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 88 TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . From the Costa del Sol, starting from Estepona (AP-7; N-340), take the MA-557, and after passing the Puerto de Peñas Blancas pass, you can either stay on the MA-557, in which case you have to go through Jubrique, or take the MA-558. Both motorways will take you to Genalguacil. If you’re coming from Ronda, take the A-369 that links Ronda with Algeciras, and go to Algatocín. Then take the MA-536 and travel 12km until you get to Genalguacil. experiences in order to foster culture development, with only one condition: the work done must remain in town. Therefore, Genalguacil has become an extraordinary outdoor museum which has remarkably increased its tourism and cultural value. Some works are not displayed on the streets but in the exhibition hall of a museum set up in an old mill, which opens to the public in August. WHAT TO SEE A typical highland village, Genalguacil offers visitors its Moorish urban layout –which has remained almost unchanged for centuries– with its steep slopes and the exquisite popular architecture of its mostly haphazardly oriented and dazzling white houses, standing out bright against the green colour of the huge forests. The most representative historical monument of the village is the Parish Church of San Pedro de Verona (St. Peter of Verona), built in the middle of the sixteenth century. The church was burnt during the Moorish uprising of 1570, rebuilt in the eighteenth century, and it underwent restoration a few years ago. The building comprises three naves separated by semicircular arches resting on columns. On the outside, its octagonal sectioned tower takes prominence. The whole building can be placed in the Baroque style, with some However, tradition has open up to modernity in the best possible way –through art. The village is dotted with sculptures made of stone, iron, wood or clay during the Art Encounters of the Genal Valley, a biennial initiative held during the first fortnight of August since 1994. Since that year, the City has invited a group of artists willing to live together and share ideas and Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . After the conquest by the Catholic Monarchs, the Moorish population continued dwelling in HOW TO GET THERE Routes and excursions The finding of hand mills for precious metals shows that Phoenicians and Greeks –the artefacts belong to theses cultures– settled in Genalguacil for a while in order to mine the gold and silver of an area called Reales Chicos. Apart from this, little is known of the history of this town until the arrival of the Moors. The name of the village derives from the sound of the Arabic phrase GennaAlwacir, which means “gardens of the vizier” or minister, suggesting that some high officer of the Muslim government once resided in this area. Surface area: 31.60km2. Population: 554. Name given to the local people: Genalguacileños. Location: In the southern part of the region of Ronda, at the Bajo Genal Valley. The village sits on a hill 520m above sea level, at 45km of Ronda and 150 of Málaga City. The average annual rainfall –one of the highest of the province– is over 1,300 l/m2, and the average annual temperature is around 14°C. What to see: Parish Church of St Peter of Verona, Genal Valley Museum of Art Meetings, Los Reales de Sierra Bermeja Nature Area. Street exhibitions of the Art Meetings throughout the year. Tourist information: Town Hall, C/ Real, 3 (29492). Tel.: (+34) 952 152 003. Fax: (+34) 952 152 129. . 88 Besides the forests, the abundance of water make this area suitable for orchards and market gardens –when the Genal River widens and flows peacefully, one can see a high number of vegetable gardens and orange groves. But apart from these parcels of land tamed by men, most of the region can be considered as one of the best ecologically preserved areas throughout the province of Málaga. USEFUL INFORMATION Genalguacil Genalguacil The area, located between the Genal River and the Sierra Bermeja range, offers a complex and varied topography which in turn greatly enriches a landscape full of pines trees, chestnuts, cork oaks and gall oaks, although the most appreciated botanical species of the area is undoubtedly the Spanish fir. It was in the Spanish fir wood of Los Reales of Sierra Bermeja range that the Swiss scientist Edmond Boissier described this tree for the first time in 1837. Genalguacil, but only until the middle of the sixteenth century. Like in many other towns, the Muslims of Genalguacil joined the Moorish uprising and were eventually expelled. The lands were repopulated by Christians from other regions or given in fiefdom to the Duke of Arcos, and the situation went on until noble privileges were abolished by law. CONVENTION BUREAU Before entering the district of Genalguacil, the traveller will notice that large forest areas start dominating the landscape, the green areas get more intense in colour and the vegetation becomes thicker. In the area surrounding the village, lush vegetation is the rule rather than the exception. 89 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 90 TOURIST BOARD & The splendid landscapes surrounding the village are of extraordinary interest to nature lovers. To go one way or the other is virtually the same. Whether taking the road down the Genal Valley or up the Los Reales of Sierra Bermeja range, what visitors can find will surely exceed their expectations as regards plant wildlife –there are about 50 rare plant species registered either because they’re endangered or interesting– and also animal wildlife (Spanish ibex, roe deer, otters). FOOD In this area, it’s still customary to adapt the menu to the seasons, especially regarding traditional dishes. In spring, the wild vegetables (golden thistle, fennel, bladder campion, asparagus) take precedence on the table of the locals, while in winter, the preferred dishes are migas (a dish made with fried breadcrumbs), hot gazpacho (a kind soup), chickpea stews, and gachas. Tomato soup, gazpacho or meat salmorejo (another soup) are among the most popular dishes, as are the pork products and the excellent must produced in the area. CONVENTION BUREAU Mudéjar reminiscence, for example in the wooden framework of the central nave. FIESTAS The celebration of the Virgin of the Candelaria (February 2) starts the festive calendar of the village, and before Holy Week the villagers have some fun during the carnival. During the patron Saint celebrations in homage to St. Peter Martyr of Verona (April 29), a wide variety of events, for all ages and tastes, take place. Genalguacil . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions Genalguacil But the most attended celebration of all is, funnily enough, one of the more recently established: the Art Encounters of the Genal Valley, which take place during the first fortnight of August. Apart from the activities of the artists gathered in town, several complementary activities for the villagers and an ever-increasing number of outsiders take place. The combination of theatrical plays, music, exhibitions and street parties make up a contagious and gratifying experience. Much more traditional and no less attended is the festivity of the chestnut harvest (beginning of November), which all the villages of the Genal Valley have in common. It’s customary to go out to the country, roast chestnuts, and savour them with a good wine of the land. . . 90 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 91 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 92 TOURIST BOARD & TO THE HIGHEST POINT OF ISTÁN . iSTÁN “Istán” means “highest” in Arabic, and the village received this name during Moorish rule because it sits over 200m above sea level. The route offers excellent panoramic views of the surroundings of the village, located between the Serranía de Ronda mountains and the Costa del Sol. . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions After passing through some farms, we take a new path that opens up in front of us and continues uphill. This will be the last ascent, a 6-km trail that will take you to the highest point of the district of Istán. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 92 Routes and excursions Length: 20km Estimated time: 8 hours. Difficulty: moderate to strenuous Beginning of route: Puerto de la Refrigeria (Istán) End of route: De la Refriega Pass (Istán) Itinerary: De la Refriega Pass (Istán), slopes of the Sierra Real range, Hoyo del Bote Brook, highest point of Istán (Istán) We are now at 14Km, just when the uphill trail turns into rocky crags that will make the ascent more difficult. To catch our breath, we can admire the panoramic views of the La Concepción Reservoir, the village and the Mediterranean Sea in the distance. . TECHNICAL DATA The first rest comes at the Hoyo del Bote Brook. Once here, we keep to the left bank of the stream, always ignoring the many detours that we’ll find along the way. After crossing a concrete platform that leads to the other side of the stream, the path starts going uphill. It’s easy to lose one’s way here because paths spring up everywhere. We have to keep walking in a straight line, always towards the village of Istán that can be seen in the distance. Istán Istán TO THE HIGHEST POINT OF ISTÁN The village of Istán has 14km of road that could be considered the best viewing point from which to enjoy the landscape. A stroll along the surroundings –like the route we’ll describe here – allows visitors to enjoy not only the landscape of the village but also of the hills around it. CONVENTION BUREAU The route starts at the La Refriega Pass towards Istán, along a nice stretch of road that gently descends the slopes of the Sierra Real range. We have to walk almost 2 kilometres downhill until we take a path to the right that starts a steeper descent. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 93 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 94 TO THE HIGHEST POINT OF ISTÁN TOURIST BOARD & . End of route . Itinerary Routes and excursions Road District border Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions Istán Istán CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route 94 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 95 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 96 TOURIST BOARD & . Routes and excursions . The Church of San Miguel (St. Michael), devoted to the patron saint of the village, was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century, in 1505, commanded by the Archbishop of Seville, Diego de Deza. The Moors burnt it in 1569 and it had to be rebuilt. Since then, it has suffered three alterations, the last one in 1960. It has a single nave with wooden framework and two chapels displaying eighteenth-century paintings. On the inside, some images of artistic value still remain, like the ones of St. Michael, the Immaculate Conception, St. Anthony, Resurrected Christ, and St. Joseph. would take it to the most unlikely places in town and to the farms. Even today, a few of the canals still serve their original purpose. Another characteristic feature of this village is its fountains. Built in popular style, explaining the proliferation of tile work, all the fountains provide drinking water, including the fountain-washing place complex of El Chorro, which evokes bygone days with its seven pipes of crystal clear water coming directly from the Sierra Blanca range and its ancient structure. The Escalante Tower, witness to some of the most salient historical events of Moorish rule, was built around the fifteenth century. Of its sturdy construction, only a vaulted chamber, a semicircular arch, and the horse courtyard remain. It has been declared a building of cultural interest due to its historical value. The Holy Chestnut is a tree that was declared a Natural Monument by the Government of Andalusia in 1985. It’s 800 years old and its trunk has a perimeter of 13 metres. The story goes that A few kilometres from town, we find the Chapel of San Miguel (St. Michael), which was built from a Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions WHAT TO SEE Surface area: 100km2. Population: Around 1,500. Name given to the local people: Panochos. Location: North of the western part of the Costa del Sol region, bordering with the Guadalhorce Valley and Ronda regions. The village is 300m above seal level, 72km from the capital of the province and only 13km from the coast. The average annual rainfall is 930 l/m2 and the average annual temperature, about 16°C. What to see: Outstanding sights: Church of San Miguel (St Michael), Escalante Tower, Shrine of St Michale, El Chorro Fountain, Holy Chestnut Tree, Tajo Banderas Viewpoint, Youth House Viewpoint, Las Herrizas Viewpoint, Azufaifo Viewpoint, El Peñón Viewpoint, Casa de la Juventud Viewpoint. Tourist information: Town Hall, Calle Empedrada, 32 (29611). Tel: (+34) 952 869 603. Fax: (+34) 952 869 665. Official website: www.istan.es Routes and excursions Soon after the Moorish uprising broke out in 1568, Istán joined in and participated very actively, as it was the lord of the village who promoted the rebellion, not only in the coastal region but also in part of the Ronda mountains region. Due to the seriousness of the situation, Phillip II sent Being so close to the coast (about 13km), Istán can be easily accessed from the coastal motorway in no more than 20 minutes. From highway AP-7 (N-340), at Puerto Banús, next to Marbella, take the A-6206, which takes you straight to Istán. In the village, an interesting network of canals from the Moorish era still survives. It is well known that the Moors worshiped water, and in Istán water would reach the village through canals that USEFUL INFORMATION . 96 The first inhabitants of this area were the Moors, who in times of Umar ibn Hafsun occupied the De Arboto Fort, located in a place known as Plaza de Armas. But the actual settlement of Istán dates back to the middle of the fifteen century (1448), when Christian troops, led by Saavedra Urdiales, prepared to attack the fort. After a battle at the banks of the Río Verde river, the defeated Moors fled to the place where Istán lies today, which seemingly means “the highest.” In this spot, they built a new fortress, of which there are still some remnants, and next to this stronghold, the first houses of the village were built. HOW TO GET THERE natural cave. On the inside, there’s an image of the patron saint of the village, St. Michael. From the chapel’s site you can enjoy magnificent views of the Sierra Blanca range, the valley of the Río Verde river, the reservoir, and the Mediterranean in the distance. Istán Istán Amidst the heights, the valley of the Río Verde River opens up, which before reaching the La Concepción Reservoir, runs through extraordinarily beautiful landscapes. This is the case of the Dehesa de Bornoque, where there’s a combination of cork oaks, gall oaks and even Spanish firs, which only goes to show that there’s a great amount of this kind of fir across the Sierra de las Nieves region. Nearer the town, the valley has terraced lands in which fruit trees and vegetables grow. over Luis Ponce de León, who eventually quelled the revolt. With the uprising crushed and the Moors expelled, Istán was repopulated by Christians, many of whom came from Murcia and spoke the Panocho dialect, thus giving rise to the locals being called Panochos. CONVENTION BUREAU The district of Istán is located just outside the perimeter of the Sierra de las Nieves Nature Reserve, and part of it is actually inside the area declared a Biosphere Reserve. Little more can be added as regards the ecological value of this territory. On top of that, the district is commanded by the Sierra Real range (1,331m) in the north, which competes with the De la Zarina Hill (1,141m) and Del Lastonar Hill (1,260m), both very close to the coast. 97 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 98 TOURIST BOARD & the part that opens up to the fields that go up to the mountains and give rise to cliffs. From here, the junction of the Río Verde and the Molinos rivers can be seen. FIESTAS The natural viewing point of Tajo Banderas (flag cliff) owes its name to its strategic position. The overhanging mass of rock was ideal for placing the flags of the fighting parties engaged in different wars. From this spot, you can enjoy magnificent panoramic views of the mountain ranges surrounding Istán (Sierra Blanca, Sierra Real, and Sierra de las Nieves). Also, you can see the lake that is actually a reservoir of the Río Verde river. On sunny days, you can make out the profiles of Gibraltar and Ceuta in the distance. Istán . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 98 The most representative celebration of the Holy Week in Istán –apart from the processions of the The traditional cuisine of Istán is surprisingly varied and of very high quality. The many typical dishes of this region include kid fried with garlic, fennel stew, soups and maimones (garlic soups). Winter dishes include berzas or stewed cabbage, sweet corn soup, and crackling soup. And for the summer, popular wisdom recommends tomato soup with figs, ajoblanco (a cold soup made with almonds), and tomato soup with grapes. Sweet dishes include oil cakes, rice pudding, borrachuelos (kind of doughnuts with wine), and rosquillos de vino (ring-shaped biscuits with wine). In Istán, the hornazo with an egg in the middle is famous. Instead of preparing exclusively during the celebrations in homage to St. Mark, the dish is made all year round. Routes and excursions Going up Pablo Picasso Street, the visitor will find the viewing point Del Peñón to the left. It has benches to sit an admire the landscape, except from In early November, the villagers get ready for what is known here as the tostoná, and in other towns, the tostón. Chestnuts are toasted in certain places of the district (the youngsters go to the country), and the toasted chestnuts are usually savoured with alcohol. The zambombeos (November 30) herald the arrival of Christmas. The villagers gather in groups and take to the streets singing Christmas carols to the beat of zambombas (friction drums) and tambourines. FOOD . The viewing point of Azufaifo Street commands incredible views of the Molinos River, which has a waterfall. Next to the Río Verde river, it runs down to the reservoir and gives a splendid landscape with the Sierra Blanca range as backdrop. St. Michael’s Fair (September 29) lasts three days and the town actively participates in several events, including the ribbons bike race. The previous Sunday, the tomillería, a pilgrimage in homage to St. Michael, takes place. The pilgrims going to the Saint’s chapel are called tomilleros (from tomillo, which means thyme) due to the abundance of this herb growing in the surrounding fields. In the middle of the afternoon, the pilgrims go back to town bringing the image of the Saint. With variations, the Paso is still being performed. The actors now move along a wide space especially decorated for the occasion. The play starts on Maundy Thursday, starting with Abraham and ending with the Arrest of Jesus. On Good Friday, it’s the Trial, the lashing, and the Via Dolorosa up to the Crucifixion and Death of Jesus. On Holy Saturday, the Resurrection is enacted, with Jesus coming out of the tomb. Recently, this custom has been declared a celebration of national interest for tourism in Andalusia. Istán The natural viewing point of Las Herrizas is located at the top of a hill overlooking the reservoir of the Río Verde river. From this place, you can enjoy the same views mentioned before, but here, the perspective of the reservoir and the Río Verde river is particularly striking. Though recently established, the Gastronomic Day (February) is an extremely popular celebration. You can taste the most typical dishes of the village in the town square. Some restaurants join the celebration and contribute with their best specialties, while a band of musicians or panda sing verdiales (Andalusian popular dance and song similar to the fandango) adding the best folk to the celebrations. fraternities which take place on different dates– is a kind of pageant called the Paso, whose first performances date back to the eighteenth century. We know that in the nineteenth century it was represented as a Greek tragedy: a chorus sang the script and masked characters made gestures according to the text. Between 1950 and 1980, the pageant was no longer played, but during the last decade, the Paso has taken new life and is again one of the characteristic features of this town. CONVENTION BUREAU Ferdinand V the Catholic himself celebrated a Mass of thanksgiving under its branches, back in 1501. It’s located 37km from Istán and can be accessed through the track of Monda first, and then the track of Las Vegas. 99 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 100 TOURIST BOARD & . mÁLAGA TORRIJOS TRAIL ALONG EL CERRADO PATH The Torrijos trail, 2.5km in length, can be completed in only 3 hours. It’s an easy trail and the most attractive in Montes de Málaga Nature Park, since it combines interesting cultural and human elements. We'll start in Lagar de Torrijos, whose corners, full of magic and history make it worth a visit. In fact, the Nature Park logo was inspired by the Lagar. Routes and excursions Routes and excursions On our walk along this path we’ll be able to observe the rich vegetation including willows, black poplars, ash trees, and brambles. The second stretch of the trail displays the pines that abound in Montes de Málaga Nature Park. If the weather is pleasant we can walk down from the ruins of the Lagar de Pacheco to the Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Once we enter the lagar, we’ll start going down on the sidewalk that leads to the recreational area by the Chapera Stream. We’ll cross the stream over a stone bridge and go on the path that runs parallel to the stream, leading to the ruins of Lagar de Pacheco. . . TECHNICAL DATA Length: 2.5km Estimated time: 3 hours. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: Lagar de Torrijos (Málaga). End of route: ruins at Lagar de Santillana (Málaga). Itinerary: Lagar de Torrijos (Málaga), Chapera Stream recreational area, ruins at Lagar de Santillana (Málaga) Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions There are three fundamental elements in the lagar: wine making with the husillo (a screw that turns making the beam go up or down in the baskets containing the grape. This way they get the must which becomes wine after the fermentation); the oil mill (drawn by animals, and dating back to the middle of the nineteenth century); and the ovens they bake the pan cateto (peasant bread). Málaga Málaga POCOPAN TRAIL 100 Following the stream course we get to a small dam. There, we’ll take a forest trail that leads to the Lagar de Santillana ruins. Opposite the lagar there’s a raised area lined with olive trees where we can enjoy nature and the Mounts of Málaga. Although the Lagar de Torrijos is open all the year round, the best season to visit it is in September, the month the harvest takes place and the must feast is held. LAS CONTADORAS - EL CERRADO ALONG THE BROOK AND PICAPEDREROS Chapera Stream. However, we shouldn’t get to the stream if it’s raining, since the waters can become quite troubled. CONVENTION BUREAU TORRIJOS TRAIL The Lagar de Torrijos is the typical farm house of the Málaga mountains in which wine is made. The house belongs to and has been renovated by the Ministry of Environment of the Government of Andalusia. In the first half of the nineteenth century, until the unfortunate arrival of the phylloxera pest, Lagar de Torrijos was the place where the popular vino de los montes (wine from the mountains) was made. When olive trees substituted for vines, two wings were added to the building, as well as an olive oil mill, a press and a cellar. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 101 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:04 PÆgina 102 TORRIJOS TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Nature Park border Málaga Málaga Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 102 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 103 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 104 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU We should mention that the path runs along an area that was devastated by a forest fire in 1989 and that is being continuously transformed both by men and nature. ALONG EL CERRADO PATH Visitors who want to admire the beauty of Montes de Málaga Nature Park can follow the El Cerrado Path, a quite easy round road 4km in length that can be completed in nearly two hours. Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 104 Routes and excursions Length: 4km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: El Cerrado Refuge (Málaga). End of route: El Cerrado Refuge (Málaga). Itinerary: There are two stretches. The first one goes uphill and the second is a downhill forest trail linking the El Cerrado Refuge with the Montes road C-345 (Málaga). The most interesting spot, however, is the Mirador del Cochino, which affords impressive views of Málaga City, the Nature Park and some of the main mountain ranges of the province of Málaga. Finally, we’ll continue to walk along the forest trail that takes us back to the starting point. . . TECHNICAL DATA First we’ll walk uphill and then we’ll take a forest trail that runs downhill and connects the El Cerrado Refuge with the road of Los Montes (C-345). While hiking across the area we can see how pines are being reborn in a light green colour. We’ll also see olive trees, strawberry trees and other species typical of the Mediterranean region. We’ll cross several brooks which bring a wealth of water to irrigate the area. Málaga Málaga We’ll start from El Cerrado refuge. We’ll see a recreational and camping area with tables, benches, barbecues, WCs, fountains and wastepaper bins. A great place to spend our time leisurely. The first stretch of the path starts in an area unaffected by fire, so we can see majestic pines and other Mediterranean species mingled with holm oaks and cork trees. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 105 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 106 ALONG EL CERRADO PATH TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route Itinerary Road Nature Park border Málaga Málaga Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 106 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 107 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 108 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU It’ll take us one hour to follow 3km along this straight, easy path. We’ll start at the Las Contadoras Plain where several roads meet. You’ll see a signpost indicating destinations and distances. LAS CONTADORAS - EL CERRADO TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes and excursions 108 When we arrive at the place where the yellow and blue routes meet, we’ll start going downhill along a path to our right. While we head towards the road C-345 up by Boticario, we’ll be surrounded by pines, holm oaks, cypresses and carob trees. Right ahead we’ll arrive at our destination: El Cerrado recreational area. . Length: 3km Estimated time: 1 hour. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: Las Contadoras Plain (Málaga) End of route: El Cerrado (Málaga). Itinerary: Las Contadoras Plain (Málaga), yellow route coming from Fuente de la Reina, leading to Torrijos and passing by MartínezFalero vantage point, yellow and blue routes’ crossing up to El Boticario, El Cerrado recreational area (Málaga). Even though most of the path runs downhill, we’ll start walking uphill. On the first stretch of the road we can admire the landscape, rich in Aleppo pines, used to fight the floods that used to threaten the city. Montes de Málaga Nature Park has come to play a main role as a flood barrier in the Guadalmedina River, which was a menace to the capital city. Málaga Málaga T his hiking trail starts at Las Contadoras, near the Aula de la Naturaleza (Nature School) bearing the same name. They develop different environment-oriented programmes, and the groups participating in these programmes can stay there. From this spot we can take two trails: Contadoras Pocopan and Contadoras - El Cerrado. We’ll take the latter. Our trail starts at a stretch known as yellow road, which runs across the plain from Fuente de la Reina to Torrijos, passing through Mirador de Martínez-Falero. From the same plain starts another trail towards Aula de la Naturaleza, in Contadoras, and to Jotrón. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 109 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 110 LAS CONTADORAS - EL CERRADO TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Nature Park border Málaga Málaga Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 110 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 111 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 112 TOURIST BOARD & Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The last stretch of the trail, a forest trail towards Jotrón, leads us to the Pocopan Hill, our arrival point. From the hill, we’ll be able to enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view. . 112 Apart from pines, holm oaks and carob trees, there are rockroses, rosemary shrubs, mastic trees, lavender plants, phloxes... As far as fauna is concerned, the area is home to squirrels, booted eagles, goshawks, among other species. Routes and excursions Length: 3km Estimated time: 3 hours. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: Aula de La Naturaleza Las Contadoras (Málaga). End of route: Pocopan Hill (Málaga). Itinerary: Aula de La Naturaleza Las Contadoras (Málaga), level curve of slope, forest trail towards Jotrón, Pocopan Hill (Málaga). Farther ahead we’ll reach a spot that was devastated by a forest fire long ago. This is the reason why the pines are not that high here. We’ll be able to enjoy panoramic views of the Los Frailes Stream or the Guadalmedina River valleys. . . TECHNICAL DATA First we’ll walk along a level curve on a slope facing south-southwest. The area, featuring pines, holm oaks, and some carob trees, used to be a recreational one in the past. Málaga Málaga T his is the second trail (3km long) departing from Las Contadoras, right from the Aula de la Naturaleza by a small monument honouring some people who died in the area while trying to put out a forest fire. Fires here prove to be extremely hazardous, affecting both animals and plants. CONVENTION BUREAU POCOPAN TRAIL The Aula de la Naturaleza (nature information centre) at Las Contadoras is located in a building from 1780, in the heart of Montes de Málaga Nature Park. The site was refurbished and improved by the Government of Andalusia in 1989. However, it opened in 1995. Currently it covers more than 500m2 and is fully equipped to accommodate 40 people for several days. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 113 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 114 POCOPAN TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & . End of route Routes and excursions Itinerary Road Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions . 114 Málaga Málaga CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 115 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 116 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU ALONG THE HONDO BROOK AND PICAPEDREROS One kilometre ahead, we’ll have to detour via a right turn. Our first stop: the old Lagar de Picapedreros, in which a forest ranger used to live some time ago. Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Near Km. 3 we can enjoy a great panoramic view of Málaga City and the old Los Montes road, lined with the typical roadside diners. To Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Farther ahead, on the last stretch, we’ll find the Cortijo de El Boticario and the centre for birds of prey. Near the cortijo (country estate), there are some signposts describing the birds of prey we can watch in the area and how we should interact with them. The centre is not open to the public, but from here we can engage in birdwatching as long as we don’t bother the animals. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 116 Near the lagar remnants we’ll take a track on the right that reaches Salto de Picapedreros, a 50-m cliff. At the bottom flows the Hondo Brook. Watch your step when you lean out. The waterfall is gorgeous, especially during the rainy season. The trail finally leads us to Cortijo de Don Ventura, whose entrance is surrounded by several holm oaks. The most abundant trees, however, aren’t holm oaks but pines and carobs. We’ll make out other buildings such as Hondo, Casa Cuadra and Juan de Luna. Routes and excursions Length: 7km Estimated time: 3 hours, 30 minutes. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: Molinos de San Telmo (Málaga). End of route: Venta El Boticario (Málaga). Itinerary: Molinos de San Telmo (Málaga), Casillas de Gutiérrez, old Lagar de Picapedreros, Salto de Picapedreros, Cortijo de Don Ventura, El Boticario Inn (Málaga) the north, we’ll be able to see almost all the Hondo Brook basin, presided over by the La Matanza hill (“matanza” means “slaughter” in Spanish), whose name recalls a battle in which the Christians were defeated by the Moors in 1483. . . TECHNICAL DATA We start following the edge of a gully made by the Hondo brook, one of the five brooks of the park. The brook is lined with eucalyptus, a tree species we’ll see all along our path. As soon as we start our excursion, we’ll see a pine forest to our left, in an area known as Casillas de Gutiérrez. Málaga Málaga The Picapedreros trail runs close to the city. It starts at the entrance of the Nature Park, at Molinos de San Telmo, the most southern part of the park near highway N-331 towards Seville, Granada and Córodba. The area is also known as “valle verde de los forestales” (green valley of the forests). The trail and ends at El Boticario Inn. This is a straight route along a forest trail in good condition, with a gentle uphill slope along 7km. Allow 3 hours. 117 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 118 ALONG THE HONDO BROOK AND PICAPEDREROS TOURIST BOARD & End of route Itinerary CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route Road Nature Park border Málaga Málaga Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 118 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 119 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 120 TOURIST BOARD & The landscape levels out to the west, shaping what is known as Hoya de Málaga, which is the lowland formed where the Guadalmedina and Guadalhorce river valleys merge, before they flow out into the Mediterranean Sea. In this area, the seaward-facing part of the city, which stretches out to the west, blends with the sugarcane fields, orchards and market gardens that form the last redoubt of an agricultural tradition that is steadily being absorbed by industrial parks and the airport. Málaga . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents In the nineteenth century, the city not only suffered as a result of the Napoleonic invasion but also from the conflicts between Liberals and Absolutists that led to the execution of General Torrijos and his companions by a firing squad on San Andrés beach in 1831, during the reign of Ferdinand VII. Towards the middle of this century, Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 120 In the following century, Málaga entered an era of greater stability in every sense of the word and, most importantly, the economy began to strengthen, mainly due to farming products’ exports. The end of the monopoly on trading with the Indies had a direct influence on the extension of port activity. Routes and excursions Export activity boomed under Roman rule, based mainly around garum (fish sauce or paste), wine Christian troops besieged the city of Málaga for a century, until 1487, when the Moors finally surrendered. The unconditional surrender entailed slavery or exile for a large number of Málaga’s residents. Following its Christianisation, the city underwent a process of radical change. It started to spread beyond the old city walls and the Church quickly began to build its own places for worshipping and monasteries. The Moorish rebellions of the sixteenth century –which ended with their expulsion in 1614– and the subsequent shortages, were followed by the flooding of the River Guadalmedina and epidemics that spread throughout the city in the seventeenth century, as well as pirate and Berber incursions and attacks by French and British fleets. The local population limped towards the end of the seventeenth century in a state of utter exhaustion. Surface area: 385.5km2. Population: 700,000. Name given to the local people: Malagueños. Location: On the southern Mediterranean coast, 50 nautical miles from the Strait of Gibraltar and 520km from Spain’s capital city, Madrid. Average annual rainfall is 470 l/m2 and average annual temperature is 18.5ºC. What to see: Roman Theatre, Alcazaba (Arab Fortress), Gibralfaro Castle, Cathedral, Church of El Sagrario (The Sanctuary), Episcopal Palace, Picasso Museum, Church of Santiago (St James), Plaza de la Merced, Picasso Foundation, Customs Hall, Paseo del Parque, Vice-Chancellor's Office of the University of Málaga (former Post Office), Bank of Spain, Town Hall, Gardens of Puerta Oscura, Gardens of Pedro Luis Alonso, Fountain of Tres Gracias (the Three Graces), Bullring, Law Courts (former Miramar Hotel), Monument to the Marquis of Larios, Larios Street, Génova Fountain, Pasaje de Chinitas, Economic Society of Friends of the Country, Málaga Athenaeum, Church of Santo Cristo de la Salud (Holy Christ of Health), Church of Santos Mártires (Holy Martyrs), Museum of Popular Arts and Traditions, Puerta de Atarazanas (Archway), Sanctuary of Virgen de la Victoria (Virgin of Victory), Finca de la Concepción, ContemporaryArt Centre (CAC), MálagaArt Heritage Museum. Tourist information: Tourist Office, Pza. de la Marina, 11 Tel.: (+34) 952 122 020. Fax: (+34) 952 122 023. . Faced with Assyrian expansion and the progressive desertification of their lands, Phoenicians from Tyre reached the Andalusian coast in around 800 BC and founded Malaka. At first, it wasn’t so much a city as a trading post around the port. Some time later the Greeks founded the neighbouring site of Mainake, which was destroyed by the Carthaginians, who in turn were defeated by the mighty Romans in the late third century BC in the Second Punic War. Later on, the city fell under the control of Berber tribes, followed by the Almoravids, the Almohads and the Nasrids. Despite these constant changes, the city retained its trading activity, owing largely to the protection of its strong walls and the lookout post provided by the Gibralfaro Castle. USEFUL INFORMATION Málaga The urban layout of the city stretches from east to west for some 12km and the old town nestles in a huge semicircular area right in the middle. Practically all Málaga’s monuments and tourist attractions are situated here save for the historic gardens, which are on the outskirts. and olive oil. By end of the first century AD, the city was already a federated town with important buildings, including the theatre on the slopes of the Alcazaba (fortress), which still remains today. As Roman domination waned, the city passed onto the hands of different Germanic peoples, such as Vandals and Visigoths, and following the Islamic invasion it belonged to the Emirate, and subsequently the Caliphate, of Córdoba. CONVENTION BUREAU Málaga is the third largest district in the province after Antequera and Ronda. It combines at least two very different kinds of landscape. To the north lies the Sierra de Málaga, a heavily wooded and mountainous area, very valuable in terms of ecology and landscape, so much so that it has been declared a Nature Park by the Andalusian Regional Government. Towards the east, the country resembles that of the Axarquía and features the highest peaks, such as Santo Pitar (1,020m). 121 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 122 TOURIST BOARD & The Larios and Heredia families were the driving force behind this thriving economic activity, and the city showed them its gratitude by erecting statues and naming some of its main streets after them. It was in the nineteenth century that Málaga focused on its urban layout: the working class neighbourhoods and factories were located in the western districts, and in the east were the large mansions of the new bourgeoisie, while in the centre some of the streets were widened and architecturally striking buildings were erected. However, a new economic crisis was looming. The flourishing industry began to falter and the phylloxera plague destroyed most vines, which had traditionally been one of the mainstays of the province’s economy. Málaga’s economy had many ups and downs, and did not really take off until the 1960s, when the Costa del Sol became a standard in international mass tourism. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . The Gibralfaro Castle, which sits on the crest of the mountain that bears the same name, is connected to the Alcazaba by a corridor (coracha) that runs between two walls. Construction began on this strategic fortress in the late eighth century under the rule of Emir Abd-ar-Rahman I. Apparently, there had been a lighthouse on the summit, at least according to a seventh-century document, which refers to the mountain as Gebel Faruk (lighthouse mountain). When the city fell to the Catholic Monarchs, the fortress was used as a military garrison, and in the eighteenth century a magazine was built inside it, which has now been converted into a visitors’ centre. The castle was partially destroyed during the Napoleonic invasion and later rebuilt, but it retains some parts of the earlier structure. It should be noted that in addition to its extraordinary historical value, the complex (with car access) offers the best views over the city. 30 years later construction work began for the Cathedral on the site of the former mosque. The new church was designed in flamboyant style, but when Diego de Siloé took charge of the project he decided to go for a Renaissance style. However, it took over two centuries to build it, so successive architectural styles were incorporated, particularly Baroque with some Neoclassical features. The southern tower was never completed, so Málaga’s Cathedral is known as La Manquita (one-armed building). Immediately after the city was conquered by Christian troops, the former mosque was consecrated under the name of Virgen de la Encarnación (Our Lady of the Incarnation), and The magnificent stonework, culminating in the main façade, features some of the most remarkable details and artistry ever to be seen in the city. One example is the seating area for the choir, car- Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Except for the Phoenician remains found on the site of the Picasso Museum, the city’s most ancient monument is the Roman Theatre (first century AD) located at the foot of the Alcazaba. Its structure is similar to the Acinipo theatre in The fortress was abandoned during the eighteenth century and in the mid-nineteenth century it was turned into a neighbourhood where poor people dwelled. It was declared a National Monument in 1931, and its restoration and reconstruction began at that time under the direction of local historian Juan Temboury and architect Guerrero Strachan. The most interesting features are the Arco del Cristo (Arch of Christ), the Plaza de Armas (Parade Ground), the Torre del Homenaje (Keep) and the Cuartos de Granada (palace chambers). Today the site can be accessed by lift. Routes and excursions WHAT TO SEE The Alcazaba or fortress dates back to the dawn of the eleventh century, but some decades later King Badis of the Granada taifa turned it into one of the most important Muslim fortresses of that time by providing it with a triple fortified complex with several towers. Inside the fortress, there was a palace for the Muslim high authorities and quarters for their servants. After the Christian conquest it became a royal residence for the Catholic Monarchs and Phillip IV. . 122 From anywhere on the Costa del Sol, take the A7 (N-340) motorway; exits for Málaga are well signposted. If you’re coming from inland Andalusia, first follow the signs to Antequera, and then get onto the A-45 (N-331) motorway, which leads to Málaga. Ronda. Parts of its proscenium, an entrance gallery, traces of the orchestra pit and a large part of the cavea (16m high, and a radius of 31m) have been preserved. Its stone was used for the construction of the Alcazaba and for the foundations of the Casa de la Cultura (Cultural Centre), a building that was pulled down in 1995 to restore the ancient monument. Málaga Málaga HOW TO GET THERE CONVENTION BUREAU Málaga started a period of industrialisation based around textiles and steel, making it the second most important area in Spain in these industries. 123 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 124 TOURIST BOARD & The Cathedral has 15 chapels and 25 altars. La Encarnación chapel is in the centre of the ambulatory. It has a lavish Neoclassical marble altarpiece. The Santa Bárbara Chapel has a Gothic altarpiece that belonged to the former mosquecathedral, although the main image is by Fernando Ortiz (1765). The Virgen de los Reyes chapel contains a Gothic figure of the Virgin that was donated by Isabella the Catholic and two sculptures representing Ferdinand and Isabella in prayer, also carved by Pedro de Mena, who also sculpted the exquisite Dolorosa (Weeping Madonna) in Los Caídos Chapel, which is overlooked by a Crucifix carved by his father, Alonso de Mena. . Routes and excursions . The Picasso Museum opens onto the pedestrian area of Granada St, and is just a stone’s throw A few metres further along is the Plaza de la Merced, a typical example of nineteenth-century town planning. The convents of La Paz and La Merced and the Santa Ana hospital once stood here, but no trace of them remains. The monument to General Torrijos was erected in the cen- Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Its Neoclassical structure is based on a square floor plan and has an austere dressed stone façade. The interior is arranged around a courtyard and has a double portico crowned with a balustrade featuring Roman sculptures. It was used for a whole host of different functions –even a tobacco factory– before being eventually turned into local government offices, but in a few years’ time, it will be converted into the Museum of Fine Art and Archaeology, whose items are stored due to the lack of a suitable space to display them. In the meantime, some of the best works from the Fine Art Museum are on display on the ground floor. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The Plaza de María Guerrero adjoins the Plaza de la Merced and the Alcazabilla St. begins there. On this street, you will see the back of the Picasso Museum, the Roman theatre and the entrance to the Alcazaba, with the Palacio de la Aduana (Custom House) opposite. This is one of the most emblematic buildings in Málaga. It was planned and begun in the late eighteenth century to take the place of the old custom house in Puerta del Mar, and was finally completed early in the nineteenth century. Since October 2003, this beautiful palace has been home to the Picasso Museum. The museum owns the private collection of Christine Picasso, which she kindly donated to the city that was the birthplace of the most emblematic artist in twentieth-century Spain. The former mansion, which also houses the Provincial Museum of Fine Art, was meticulously renovated and then adapted to its new role as a museum, following the guidelines of modernity and respect for the original sixteenth-century structure at the same time. The transformation of the premises has been praised as exemplary by international experts. The permanent collection, made up of over 200 works by this genius from Málaga, is displayed in several rooms that have retained the palace’s magnificent Mudéjar coffered ceilings. Paintings, sculptures, prints and ceramics represent the different creative periods of this artist, who finally returned to his home town under the best possible condition in terms of exhibition venues. Pablo Ruiz Picasso was born in 1881 in the northern part of the square, in one of the so-called Casas de Campos. The building where he was born has housed the Picasso Foundation since 1988 and is considered to have one of the most comprehensive archives of documents relating to this artist in the whole world. It also has a museum section exhibiting a choice selection of prints, photographs, and ceramics and even a recreation of what the house belonging to the Picasso family looked in the late nineteenth century. Routes and excursions In the Plaza del Obispo, to the left of the Cathedral’s main façade, stands the Palacio Episcopal (Episcopal Palace), a group of buildings from the sixteenth, seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The most remarkable thing about the splendid Baroque façade, divided by pilasters into five vertical panels, three storeys high, and crowned with a pinnacled balustrade, is the white, pink and grey marble work with a niche at the top The Cathedral’s Puerta de los Naranjos (Naranjos Gate) opens out onto San Agustín St. This is for sure one of the most traditional streets in Málaga, where the Palacio de los Condes de Buenavista (Counts of Buenavista’s Palace) is located. This is one of the few secular Renaissance structures in Málaga and dates back to 1520. Its austere façade has some Plateresque features and the lookout tower gives it a fortress-like appearance. tre of the square in 1842, eleven years after he was executed by a firing squad on San Andrés beach for his Liberal ideas. The monument is by Rafael Mitjana, who designed a slender obelisk crowned with a wreath of laurel. . 124 The Sagrario Church that is attached to the Cathedral on the north side is notable for its sixteenth-century flamboyant Gothic façade. Inside there is a single barrel vaulted nave with a magnificent Plateresque altarpiece that was brought from a village in Palencia. from the Santiago Church, where Picasso was christened. The church was modified in the eighteenth century but two important features of the original Mudéjar construction remain: the brick façade with a pointed arch and the Almohad-style brick tower. Its interior is profusely adorned with stuccowork, especially the side chapels. Málaga Málaga In the Virgen del Rosario Chapel, there is an impressive painting Alonso Cano: the best painting in Málaga Cathedral. By the two seventeenth-century pulpits made of pink stone are also remarkable. that houses a statue of the Virgen de las Angustias (Our Lady of Sorrows). An artistic stairway with a decorated vault starts in the inner courtyard, which has elegant Tuscan columns. The main floor of the palace is currently used for exhibitions. CONVENTION BUREAU ved by Pedro de Mena and other artists. De Mena is responsible for 42 figures and the ends of the choir. There are also two grandiose eighteenthcentury organs located on either side. 125 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:05 PÆgina 126 TOURIST BOARD & Málaga . Routes and excursions On the northern side of the square, you will find the former Consulate, now the central offices of the Sociedad Económica de Amigos del País (Economic Society of Friends of the Country). It has an artistic façade and a beautiful eighteenthcentury style courtyard. The adjacent building, the Ateneo de Málaga (Málaga Athenaeum), was formerly a School of Arts and Trades, where Picasso attended his first art lessons. These two buildings and the Santo Cristo de la Salud Church (on Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents As you leave Pasillo de Santa Isabel, you will come across Plaza de Arriola and the Central Market, where the Puerta de las Atarazanas, the gateway to the former medieval shipyards, still stands. Although it has been considerably restored, this gate still features a large pointed horseshoe arch, the only element remaining from a large 5,000m2 building that in the Christian period served as an arsenal which collapsed after the explosion of several gunpowder mills in the seventeenth century. After its reconstruction, it was turned into a hospital, and in the nineteenth century it was used as a college to train surgeons and even as an artillery garrison, until the decision was made in 1868 to demolish all of Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions which is a nineteenth-century fountain named Las Tres Gracias, which previously stood in the Plaza de la Constitución. If you continue along the Paseo de Reding you will see the Plaza de Toros (a nineteenth-century Neo-Mudéjar bullring) and on the right, around 100m further along, the former Miramar Hotel, which is now the Palacio de Justicia (Courthouse). This is another great building designed by Guerrero Strachan in the Back on Compañía St. and heading west towards the River Guadalmedina, take the Pasillo de Santa Isabel, which runs parallel to the river. At number 10 you will find the Mesón de la Victoria, a tavern built in the seventeenth century over a former fifteenth-century mosque. Since the 1970s, it has been home to the Museum of Popular Arts, Customs and Traditions, offering a glimpse of what life in Málaga was like in centuries gone by, the city’s rural, mining, industrial and bourgeois past, along with a well-preserved collection of utensils, tools and furnishings. Routes and excursions The Puerta Oscura Gardens are behind the City Hall, under the south wall of the Alcazaba, on the site of an ancient Roman villa. The gardens are organised into terraces and zigzag paths in order to take advantage of the mountain slope. Opposite the eastern wall of the City Hall are the Pedro Luis Alonso Gardens, where nineteenthcentury landscaping blends with Spanish-Muslim features such as a pool with water jets and rows of orange trees. The eastern end of the Paseo del Parque runs into the Plaza del General Torrijos, in the centre of Larios St. leads into the Plaza de la Constitución, a former Muslim market square that was turned into the city’s main square after the Christian conquest. It was remodelled at the same time as Larios St. and here they placed the Renaissance (sixteenth century) Fuente de Génova (Genoa Fountain), which previously stood on one of the arbours dotted along the Paseo del Parque. The eastern side of this square leads onto a little lane known as Pasaje de Chinitas, with its typical echoes of García Lorca’s bulls, flamenco dancing and singing. If you continue along Compañía St. to Los Mártires Alley, you end up at the square and church of the same name: the Iglesia de los Santos Mártires (Church of the Holy Martyrs), commissioned by the Catholic Monarchs. Work began on it in the sixteenth century but it was remodelled in the eighteenth century, so the decoration is late Baroque. . . There are several Romantic arbours along the promenade, featuring busts of the poets Salvador Rueda and Rubén Darío and a sculpture by Jaime Pimentel of a traditional vendor of biznagas (a local flowering plant). The Cervantes Ave. runs parallel to the Paseo del Parque and here there are three remarkable early twentieth-century buildings. The former Post Office, now the Chancellor’s Office of the University of Málaga, has a peculiar Neo-Mudéjar design, and the Bank of Spain building features an elegant Neoclassical style. Málaga’s City Hall was built in a quite simple Baroque style and was designed by Guerrero Strachan and Rivera Vera. Of particular note are the main staircase, the assembly hall and the Salón de Los Espejos (Hall of Mirrors). Compañía St.) belonged to the Society of Jesus. The seventeenth-century church has a circular floor plan crowned with a large dome. It houses a magnificent altarpiece dating from 1633 and Pedro de Mena’s tomb. Málaga 126 1920s. Back in the city centre, you will find the Plaza de la Marina, between the port and Málaga’s two main streets, Larios and La Alameda. This square has been remodelled many times, and on the last occasion, sections of the Nasrid walls and the seventeenth-century port walls were uncovered and are now preserved in the underground car park. The monument to the Marquis of Larios, by Mariano Benlliure, overlooks the Plaza. The Marquis of Larios was the driving force behind Málaga’s new aspect and this was why Larios St. was named after him. It links the port district directly to the Plaza de la Constitución. Larios St., the street for shopping in Málaga’s, was designed by Eduardo Strachan in late nineteenth century according to the Chicago School standards. It was recently remodelled and is now the best kept part of the city. CONVENTION BUREAU Next to the Custom House is the Paseo del Parque, a promenade that stretches between the port, Cortina del Muelle and the slopes of the Alcazaba. This green space, which is approximately 800m long and sits on land reclaimed from the sea in the late nineteenth century, is less a park in the usual sense than a botanical garden. Numerous tropical and subtropical tree species, including one or two that are unique on our continent, have adapted well to this location, and therefore catches visitors’ attention. 127 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 128 TOURIST BOARD & The Santuario de la Virgen de la Victoria (Our Lady of Victory Sanctuary) is outside the old quarter but still in the city centre. It was originally a chapel built on the site where Ferdinand the Catholic set up camp as he prepared to take Málaga. In the seventeenth century, the chapel was replaced with a Baroque church, whose construction was funded by the Count of Buenavista. . Routes and excursions . Over the last few decades, Málaga’s fair has been held in two different places: the historic district hosts the so-called Feria de Día (Day Fair) and the Cortijo de Torres, outside the city, is fairground, where the activity continues on through the night. In the city centre, traditional bars get crowded, whereas at Cortijo de Torres, there are public and private marquees that draw in the crowds. The official programme for these dates is full of events and there is something to meet all tastes. There is special emphasis, however, on local fol- However, visitors generally prefer to try local specialties, and there is no doubt that pescaíto frito (small fried fish) is the local dish par excellence. Pescaíto frito can cover a range of different types of fish and seafood, but you will mainly find boquerón (anchovies), jurel (horse mackerel), salmonetes (red mullet), calamares (squid), and pijotas (baby hake). You could also try espetos de sardinas (grilled sardine skewers), almejas (clams) and coquinas (type of clams). The list goes on, but this is the most common combination. Pescaíto frito is served in most restaurants around the city but it is especially traditional in beachfront restaurants. Other typical dishes are gazpacho and ajoblanco (chilled garlic and almond soup), gazpachuelo (fish soup) and ensalada malagueña (a salad of boiled potatoes, cod, oranges, hard-boiled eggs, olives, onions and olive oil). Plato de los Montes is typically served in the taverns that surround the city and is a dish of fried potatoes, pork loin in lard, chorizo sausage, fried peppers and fried eggs. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The August Fair commemorates the taking of Málaga by the Catholic Monarchs and lasts for nine days full of fun and revelry. Málaga is an open tourist town and you can sample almost any type of food at its many restaurants, be it local, regional or international. There are restaurants to suit all tastes and budgets, from more modest and affordable sites to more exclusive restaurants, including the Michelin-starred Café de Paris. Routes and excursions A little farther away (3km away from the Coín road exit from N-340 motorway) stand El Retiro Estate, built as requested by bishop Alonso de Tomás in the seventeenth century. The garden was turned into a patio in the eighteenth century by the Counts of Buenavista. Later, the Count of Villalcázar revamped it as a court garden, with beautiful fountains, sculptures and water effects. During Holy Week, Málaga becomes a gigantic stage where the cofradías or fraternities re-enact the Passion of Christ in the street, amid tumultuous popular fervour that goes through the whole range of human emotions. Grandeur, devotion, luxury, sobriety, joy, the singing of saetas, silence, cheers and applause... all forming a whole that is hard to explain but quickly embraced by anyone willing to experience it. FOOD . 128 Leaving Málaga by the Autovía de Las Pedrizas (A-4; N-331) you will see a sign indicating the exit for Finca de la Concepción, one of the best tropical gardens in Europe. It was built in the nineteenth century by the Marquises of Casa Loring, who erected a Classical-style palace on the site. The estate has an unusual display of forests with bridges, small waterfalls and a graceful Doric bandstand. Countless motion pictures have been shot here. It was declared a Historic-Artistic Garden in 1943 and acquired by the City Council. Málaga has two major popular celebrations: Holy Week and the August Fair. There are, however, other festivities that are deeply ingrained in popular tradition, such as Carnival in late February, Corpus Christi in late May or early June, the Virgen del Carmen celebration with its maritime procession in mid-July, and the Fiesta Mayor de Verdiales (traditional Andalusian music festival) on 28 December at the Venta de San Cayetano in the neighbourhood of Puerto de la Torre, where you can enjoy the traditional verdiales competition while sampling the local wine and dry cured pork. And, in addition, each neighbourhood also organises its own fiestas. klore and flamenco and on contemporary music, especially for young people, who can attend performances by famous groups and singers in the fairground auditorium. Bullfighting fans also await for the fair to start because the best bullfights take place in La Malagueta on these days. Málaga Málaga Inside the church, of particular note are the Lady Chapel, which has exuberant Rococo artwork intermingled with angels, plant motifs and Marian symbols, as well as the crypt belonging to the Counts of Buenavista. The latter is morbidly dramatic, with white plasterwork ornaments against black backgrounds, which gives it a macabre dramatic character. FIESTAS CONVENTION BUREAU it, except for the southern gate, in order to build the market. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 129 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 130 TOURIST BOARD & . mONDA FROM MONDA TO ISTÁN THROUGH THE MORATÁN AREA Monda is one of the most interesting villages of the Costa del Sol, not only due to its scenery but also its historical value. The village Monda TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions After crossing a bridge over the so called Arroyo Seco brook, we enter the Moratán area, where we can see for ourselves the devastating effects of the fire of June 1994. After 1.5km on the dirt track, we'll see the walls of the Sierra Canucha range on our left, and we get to the first reference point, the so called Cortijo de Moratín. We keep on walking through a pleasant natural environment enjoying the views as we go uphill. At some places, if you look down, you'll be able to see the end of our route, a white spot made up of the houses of Istán. But we still have a long way to go. We continue on the trail until after the Km. 9 we get to the Moratán Pass. This is also an indication that we are at the Serranía de Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . We start our route in Monda at the doors of the Church of Santiago Apóstol (St. James the Great), built in the sixteenth century, and go from the town square to the road leading to Marbella. This stretch can be done by car, as after a few metres we must follow the paved road up to a detour to the right that leads to a dirt track. If you decide to start the route here, you can save time and some 3 kilometres. Routes and excursions Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions As this stretch runs slightly downhill, it will be less strenuous, so it's a good idea to enjoy the view of the changing landscape, which includes farmlands that alternate with the native vegetation. When we're close to the end of our route, we get to the rise of the Molinos River, approximately at Km. 17. After resting a while, we start the last three kilometres that takes us to Istán. It will be easy to get there, as the way is clearly signposted. . Length: 20km Estimated time: 7 hours. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: doors of the Church of Santiago Apóstol (St. James the Great) (Monda). End of route: Istán. Itinerary: doors of the Church of Santiago Apóstol (St. James the Great) (Monda), road to Marbella, Arroyo Seco Brook, Moratán area, Sierra de Canucha range and Cortijo de Moratín, Moratán Pass, rise of the Molinos River, Istán. Istán, on the other hand, located at the end of the motorway, is a mountain village that offers beautiful panoramic views, also while driving on the road that takes you there. History has also left its mark there, and you can visit its sixteenth-century Parish Church or the remains of the older Moorish tower. Monda 130 The route starts at the village of Monda. It can be done on foot, but as it's 20km long, it's not recommended for beginners or people who haven't been doing trekking for a while, because it takes around seven hours to complete. By bike, the estimated time is three hours. Ronda national game preserve. From here we can go in different directions. For us, the correct path to take is the one that goes downhill to Istán, to the left and through pine woods and cork oak groves. CONVENTION BUREAU FROM MONDA TO ISTÁN THROUGH THE MORATÁN AREA and its surroundings have been declared Picturesque Place in 1971. and today they're also considered a Historic Site. The Castle of Monda, now turned into a charming hotel, is one of the village's main symbols. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 131 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 132 FROM MONDA TO ISTÁN THROUGH THE MORATÁN AREA TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road District border Monda Monda Nature Park border Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 132 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 133 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 134 TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . From Málaga City, take the A-357 up to Cártama. Once in this village, take the A-355 up to Coín, where you follow the A-366 towards Alhaurín el Grande. After 2.5km, take the A-355 again, which leads to Monda. The reason why you have to take the A-366 is because there's a stretch of the A-355 that is being repaired. Once the construction work is over, there would be no need to take the A-366. From Marbella, you also have to take the A-355, which in this case leads straight to Monda. From the archaeological remains found in the area, it's estimated that the De la Villeta Castle was built in the third century B.C., that is, under Roman rule. Umar ibn Hafsun used it as a stronghold, but the castle ended up in the hands of Saib Ibn Al-Mundir, who virtually destroyed it. The castle was rebuilt in the eleventh century and partially demolished in 1498, years after the Christian conquest. Today, it's been converted into a luxurious hotel, keeping the features that could be salvaged from the old structure. WHAT TO SEE The village stretches over the less rugged part of the slope of a hill crowned by a castle. The village does have its slopes though, and a Moorish atmosphere in the older part, where the Parish Church of Santiago Apóstol (St. James the Great) is located. The church was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century and later restored. On the inside, we can see the Chapel of Jesus (sixteen century), which retains some elements of Múdejar style, and the Chapel of the Virgin, with an interesting plaster vault with Baroque relief decorations. On the outside, the church shows the coat of arms of the Bishop of Málaga Friar Alonso de Santo Tomás, and a three-level tower of quadrangular section. The De la Jaula Fountain is one of the most representative architectural features of Monda. It's a sixteenth century roofed washing place with arcades at the sides, which benefits from the water that will later be used for irrigation. The fountain was restored in the eighteenth century. The Mari Gloria House Museum is more than just Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . After Málaga was conquered by the Christians, Monda was included within the jurisdiction of HOW TO GET THERE Routes and excursions It's taken as a fact that it was Umar ibn Hafsun who built the Al Mundat Castle to defend himself from the attacks of the Caliphate of Córdoba after the revolt he led himself. The castle would be part of the defensive network of the Guadalhorce Valley, but it was destroyed by Saib Ibn Al-Mundir in the year 308 of the Hegira (around 932 A.D.), and rebuilt in the eleventh century. Surface area: 58km2. Population: Around 2,400. Name given to the local people: Mondeños. Location: In the north of the Costa del Sol, to the west of the Guadalhorce Valley region. This village lies 380 metres above sea level, 40 kilometres away from Málaga City. Average annual rainfall: 711 litres/m2. Average annual temperature: around 17º C. What to see: Church of Santiago (St. James the Great), De la Villeta Castle (Al-Muldat Castle), De la Jaula Fountain, Mari Gloria House Museum. Tourist information: Town Hall, Calle José Marcías, 1 (29110). Tel.: (+34) 952 457 069. Fax: (+34) 952 457 180 . 134 For a while, people tended to believe that it was here in Monda that the famous battle of Munda -in which Julius Caesar fought against Pompey and Gnaeus Pompeius in 45 B.C. for the power of Rome- took place. In fact, there are no historical records to support this theory; still it's a nice story to tell visitors. The same story is told at least in one other town of Málaga, and it seems that the similarity between Monda and Munda has given rise to the confusion. USEFUL INFORMATION Monda Monda Places like Moratán and Giamón, in the foothills of the Sierra Canucha range, with dense holm oak and cork oak woods, are the kind of beauty spots you remember even after having visited many others. Not surprisingly, this area has been included in Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park. To the north, the terrain is less rugged and there are large olive groves and grain fields, and closer to the village, the terraced farms command the landscape. the present capital of the province. It seems that the victors coexisted peacefully with the defeated Moors, until the Moorish uprising after which the Moors of Monda were expelled -as were the Moors of the rest of the villages of the old kingdom of Granada- and replaced by 80 families of Old Christians, who settled in a flatter area. CONVENTION BUREAU The lands of Monda stretch among mountains that not only make up a multiform landscape but also confer certain uniqueness to the area. Though the district is not radically different from other parts of the Guadalhorce Valley, there's something subtle about it that distinguishes it from the bordering areas. 135 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 136 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU a museum, as it allows us to travel back in time and experience life as it was in the old days. Although it used to be a bakery, apart from having the tools used to make bread, it now has all kinds of other things, such as farming tools, old furniture, decorative motifs of the past, and an endless amount of tiny details that will stir the visitors' curiosity. FIESTAS In the last decades, the revival of old traditions such as a dish or a local product, has given rise to some of the most popular celebrations in several villages. Without detriment to other much more traditional celebrations, these have become big tourist attractions. In Monda, it's the Day of the Monda-style or poncima soup, which is made with bread, peppers, a local variety of tomato called tomate de culo, garlic, olive oil, and eggs. The celebration is held on a Sunday of March (variable), when the town fills up with visitors eager to savour the most traditional dish of the district. . . Monda Monda The carnival, the fair of St. Roch, patron of the village, on August 16, and Holy Week are other very popular celebrations in Monda, especially Holy Week, featuring a performance of the Stations of the Cross among its religious events. Routes and excursions . Besides the Monda-style soup mentioned above, the town has other specialties worth mentioning, such as pork products (especially black pudding and chorizo sausage), and some delicious locally produced honey and home made roscos (ringshaped biscuits), usually prepared for Holy Week and Christmas. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 136 Routes and excursions FOOD Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 137 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 138 TOURIST BOARD & . pARAUTA This unique fir is a real star both in the park and the province. It's estimated that this tree is around 500 years old, and to have an idea of its size, take a look at these numbers: its trunk is 1.62m in diameter and 26m in height, and its top gives a shadow covering an area of 200m2. There's no lack of legends telling the story of this tree. They say that in that place there lived a woman who devoted her life to offer hospitality to anyone arriving at the area. When she died, she was buried right on the spot where the fir subsequently grew. This is why many people consider this tree as a symbol of guidance to trekkers. The park is an extraordinary natural area and home to a wide variety of animals: Spanish ibexes, otters, golden eagles, fallow deer, and mouflons. As regards the vegetation, the Spanish fir is the most characteristic tree. It's a peculiar kind of fir, very abundant in the highest parts of the mountains, while the lowest levels are dominated by holm oak and cork oak woods. TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions To go back, we first have to walk a few metres farther to the Del Hinojar cliff, which affords beautiful sights. Then we take the same path that took us there. As we'll go back the same way we came, it's a good idea to take a note of the places we like the most so we can stop there when we come back. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Length: 5km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: Road from San Pedro Alcántara to Ronda. End of route: Spanish Fir of La Escalereta (Parauta). Itinerary: Road from San Pedro Alcántara to Ronda, Cortijo de La Nava, basin of the Río Verde river, Spanish fir of La Escalereta (Parauta). Routes and excursions We have to be very careful when we get close to the tree because small seedlings grow around it and it's only too easy to step on them. That's why it's advisable not to leave the marked path. . 138 Following this path, there's a fork in the road. We take the trail on the right. Then we go uphill for 2km in what is probably the toughest ascent of the route. This will lead to a pass and We now take the trail to our right, enjoying the landscape and the panoramic views from this point. When this trail comes to an end, there's another track that leads straight to the Spanish fir of La Escalereta, which was declared a Natural Monument by the Government of Andalusia. Parauta Parauta UP TO THE SPANISH FIR OF LA ESCALERETA The trail runs close to Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, located at the Serranía de Ronda mountains. Several districts are comprised in the park: Istán, El Burgo, Parauta, Yunquera, Ronda, and Tolox, which is taken as a reference point in this case. then to the Río Verde river basin. Then, following the path always towards Tolox, we can't go wrong. The trail is easy to follow, and after a very sharp turn, there's a sign with the map of the whole trail with all the indications to get to our destination. CONVENTION BUREAU UP TO THE SPANISH FIR OF LA ESCALERETA From the two entrances to the park -one through the road that goes from San Pedro Alcántara to Ronda, and the other through Yunquera- we'll chose the former to start our route. The best thing to do is get there by car (though it can be done by bike) and leave the car parked when you get to a crossroads where there's a sign pointing to Tolox, after passing the Cortijo de La Nava farm. 139 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 140 UP TO THE SPANISH FIR OF LA ESCALERETA TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road District border Nature Park border Parauta Parauta Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . 140 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 141 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 142 TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . The church was built in the sixteenth century. Its floor plan is in the shape of a Latin cross, and the transept has a wooden covering. On the outside, there's a Mudéjar-style bell tower with a belfry with semicircular arches supporting a hipped roof. Inside the church, there's a eighteenth-century image of Our Lady of Sorrow and a polychrome statue in carved wood of Saint Pascal Baylon by Adrián Risueño, which is a copy of an original by Pedro de Mena. Not very far from the village there's a holm oak called Valdecilla, which is considered by some as the "mother of all holm oaks." This tree is unique and has been cited in several botanical publications. It's more than 20m tall, and its trunk is over 3m in diameter. FIESTAS The village celebrations are held between 15 and 20 August in homage to the Virgin of the Rosary. The festivities comprise several events in which not only the locals take part but many people originally from Parauta who left the village to work somewhere else take the festivities as an opportunity to visit friends and relatives. In Parauta, Holy Week starts on Palm Sunday with the traditional procession of palms. On Maundy Thursday, two different processions carry Jesus of Nazareth and the Virgin of Solitude separately, through different routes, and meet at the square of Parauta. On Good Friday, the procession carries the same Virgin, but now following the Holy Sepulchre. On Holy Saturday night, the- Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents re's a fireworks show, and hunters fire their guns to announce Resurrection Day (Easter Sunday), while outside the village, a manger with Baby Jesus is installed. At noon, the Virgin of the Rosary goes to meet Baby Jesus, while six rag dolls called Judas are burnt. FOOD The cuisine of Parauta is very similar to that of the villages of the area it belongs. Their specialties include olla (a stew with meat, pulses and vegetables), tomato soups, boiled soups (hot soups made with bread and vegetables), and gazpacho (a cold soup). All the vegetables and pulses employed in the preparation of these dishes are grown in the privately owned market gardens of the village, thus guaranteeing quality and freshness. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . From any point of the Costa del Sol, you have to take the AP-7 (N-340) to San Pedro Alcántara. Once there, take the A-376 towards Ronda, and 10km before reaching the City of the Tajo, take the A-519, which will take you to Parauta. The urban layout of Parauta is typically Moorish, which is clearly shown by its lack of uniformity. Some of the houses are whitewashed without having been stuccoed first, so they have a strikingly rough aspect. The village has two distinct neighbourhoods linked by a square, and in the northern end, the Church of the Immaculate Conception is located. Routes and excursions HOW TO GET THERE Surface area: 44.20km2. Population: Around 250. Name given to the local people: Parauteños. Location: East of the Ronda region, bordering with the Guadalhorce Valley region and the Western Costa del Sol. The village is 800m above sea level, and 105km from the capital of the province. The average annual rainfall is 1,300 l/m2, and the average annual temperature, around 14°C. What to see: Church of the Immaculate Conception, Valdecilla holm oak, Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza del Calvario, 30 (29421). Tel: (+34) 952 181 028. Fax: (+34) 952 181 000. . 142 Apart from that, it's only natural to think that the history of Parauta must have been closely linked to the history of the villages nearby, as there's no chronicle stating any special event occurring in this village. USEFUL INFORMATION With few exceptions, the small highland villages have no examples of architectural excellence; therefore, the landscape becomes the main attraction. This includes the urban landscape, which was preserved from outside influences due to the isolation of these villages, which opened up to the outside world only in the middle of the twentieth century. Parauta Parauta According to historians, Parauta was the result of the merging of two villages: Parauta itself and Benahazín, located near Cartajima, which for reasons unknown added its lands to Parauta and ceased to exist as a separate town. Due to the lack of historical records, the origin of the village is a matter of guesswork. Some of these theories are stronger that others, like the one stating that the village was founded by the Moors, which is more than likely given the street layout. Among the weaker theories, there's one stating that this is where the Andalusian Muladi leader Umar ibn Hafsun -who turned against and harried the Caliphate of Córdoba in the tenth century- was born, a theory that has fewer and fewer supporters. WHAT TO SEE CONVENTION BUREAU The district is located to the south of the Sierra del Oreganal range, from where its lands open up to the Genal Valley and, to the east they go deep into Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, where the Spanish fir forest of Parauta is located. The area shows varied features, encompassing patches of rocky terrain with scant vegetation as well as lush forests of chestnut trees, holm oaks, pines and olive trees, to what we must also add Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, of exceptional ecological interest. 143 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 144 TOURIST BOARD & BORBOLLÓN STREAM SURROUNDINGS . rIOGORDO BORBOLLÓN STREAM SURROUNDINGS The itinerary starts at Riogordo, a village in the Axarquía region located 35km from Málaga City, Vélez or Antequera. At the village's entrance, right crossing the bridge over the La Cueva river, you'll find a lane to your left. Here starts the route, quite easy at the beginning. A few metres ahead, on arriving at a stream, we'll head south and then take a dirt path to the north, leading to Alfarnatejo. Let's keep walking until getting at the Borbollón stream mouth, the end of our route and a nice spot to make a short break. Once we've past the straight section of the road, we'll see it becomes quite twisting, and the landscape features rich vegetation, especially if we decide to go out in a rainy season. Moreover, the views are increasingly beautiful while we go up and we'll be able to see even the Enmedio range. Riogordo It's not all about scenic views, though. Now the steepness of the path requires us to save energy. Let's head towards the Sabar river, passing some peaks and reach the trail at Altos de Doña Ana y Gómer. On reaching the highest peak, (1,000m), we'll see a wire fence indicating the area's border. Riogordo TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . After our short break, we start climbing down, the walls of the Tajo del Fraile gorge at the right, and then arrive at the low part of Sierra del Rey range, towards which the Borbolón stream flows. While we keep on descending, we see different vegetation. Take a look Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions At this point, you'll find the mouth of two streams -a good place to have a rest. The Alto de Gómer is the most impressive view we can enjoy here, and if we're lucky enough, we'll be able to make out a Spanish ibex in the distance. Routes and excursions Length: 15km Estimated time: 5 hours, 30 minutes. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: bridge over the La Cueva river (Riogordo). Final del itinerary: Borbollón stream (Riogordo) Itinerary: bridge over the La Cueva river (Riogordo), Molino de Auta, Altos de Doña Ana y Gómer, Sierra del Rey, mouth of the Borbollón stream (Riogordo). . 144 Although the route takes its name from the Borbollón stream, what is interesting here is to enjoy the diversity of landscapes. Just take it easy, rest once in a while, stop to admire the views, enjoy the surroundings. Molino de Auta nestles on a rugged mass of rock. The La Cueva river runs beneath the crag. We should get beyond a chain that is normally closed, and we must pay attention to the road so as not to get lost, because we won't take the junction to the left or the one to the right that comes next. around, for the path is easy enough and you can't get lost. CONVENTION BUREAU We'll start following the bends of the dirt road, whose only asphalted stretch is at the beginning of the trail, on the regional road to Casabermeja. Once we've walked along 4km, we arrive at the first beauty spot: Molino de Auta. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 145 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:06 PÆgina 146 BORBOLLÓN STREAM SURROUNDINGS TOURIST BOARD & Routes and excursions Itinerary Road 146 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . District border Routes and excursions End of route . . Riogordo Riogordo CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 147 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:07 PÆgina 148 TOURIST BOARD & . Routes and excursions . highway, drive along 14km and drive along the A356 highway in direction to Riogordo. Vineyards' development, in the eighteenth century, encouraged the district's repopulation (the number of recorded inhabitants in 1787 was 2,120). The population was growing steadily until 1882, when the phylloxera infected and destroyed the vines. WHAT TO SEE The rugged terrain the village stretches over features two distinct areas: the high district -Cerrilloand the low one -La Plaza-. Both districts boast the typical Andalusian whitewashed houses, which you can admire on Deán de Rojas, La Santa, Horno and Del Agua streets. You'll come across many niches with religious figures -there are some dating back to the sixteenth century-, which are places of worship. HOW TO GET THERE There are three different ways you can reach Riogordo. First, the easiest one: from Málaga, take the A-45 (N-331) highway towards Antequera. On arriving at Casabermeja, take the A-356 highway, drive along 18km and you'll find Riogordo. The most outstanding monument of Riogordo is the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de Gracia (Our Lady of Grace), built in 1490. It has a basilica floor-plan and three naves divided by round The second way, also from Málaga: take the A6103 highway, also known as Los Montes road or old Colmenar road. At Colmenar, take the A-6118 Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Riogordo's economic boom can be seen in the fact that in 1561, the village had three brothels run by someone called Sancho Marroquí, while three innkeepers were in charge of "lodging in their homes and inns all woman prostitutes who went there to make a living by offering themselves for sexual hire." Riogordo was declared a district in 1552, its first Judge being Francisco Hernández. Surface area: 40.60km2. Population: Around 3,150. Name given to the local people: Riogordeños. Nickname: Panzones. Location: In the northeastern part of the Axarquía region. The village is 400m above sea level, 38km from Málaga City, around 30km from VélezMalaga, and 6km from Colmenar. The annual average rainfall is 575 l/m2, and the annual average temperature is 16.2º C. What to see: Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de Gracia (Our Lady of Grace), San Sebastián or Jesús Nazareno Chapel. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza de la Constitución, 14 (29180). Tel.: (+34) 952 732 154. Fax: (+34) 952 732 380 Routes and excursions Some historians believe that the Bobastro Castle once stood near the country estate of Auta, and even that Omar Ben Hafsun -the leader who belonged to a family that had converted to Islam and rebelled against the Caliphate of Córdobawas born in the castle. Other historians, however, claim that he was born in Parauta (Serranía de Ronda range). In case you are on the Eastern Costa del Sol, you can take the Mediterráneo highway (A-7, N340). Once at Vélez-Málaga, take the A-335 USEFUL INFORMATION . 148 Some tombs have been discovered by the Sierrecilla del Rey, belonging to the Phoenicians. The Auta, Llano del Rey and Capellanía villas date back to the Roman period, featuring magnificent mosaics from the third century. However, it was the Arabs who made the area grow in importance. highway straight to Riogordo. The first half of the road features a series of bends, so you can't drive fast, but the landscape is really beautiful, enjoy it! Riogordo Riogordo Curiously enough, the village took its name from the river, rather than the other way around. This can be explained by the fact that the village has always been highly dependent on the river, whose name Riogordo, makes reference to the "heavy" water, with a high mineral concentration, it carries (río means "river" in Spanish, while gordo stands for "fat" or "heavy"). Some time ago, the river that is known today as De la Cueva was named Gordo or De Oro, and it was on the river bank that the first Neolithic human settlements established, specifically in the Tajo de Gómer. After the Christian conquest, in 1487, Riogordo used to belong to the Comares jurisdiction, and most lands were passed on to Francisco de Coalla, Alderman of Málaga, first Knight of Auta, and Mayor of Comares. Before the Christians captured the village, Riogordo had been known as Aprisco de Majianza, and in early sixteenth century it was already named Puebla de Riogordo. In late 16th century and early seventeenth century, the population grew from 620 to 1,176 inhabitants, probably because Comares provided it with protection. CONVENTION BUREAU Even though it's not big, the district of Riogordo features three kinds of landscapes visitors can easily perceive as being quite distinct. The northern area, with a rugged terrain, is crowned by the Tajo de Gómer (1,129m) and the Sierra del Rey range, with the Castejón peak (972m). Between the two mountain ranges, the La Cueva river flows from the Borbollón de Auta, shaping a small valley plenty of grain fields and pastures. To the south there are rolling hills covered with olive groves, which can be found well to the south, up to the area in which the landscape becomes more abrupt, featuring the typical characteristics of the Montes de Málaga range. 149 rutas_interior_ENG_1 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:07 PÆgina 150 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU arches on rectangular pillars. The Lady chapel in the interior and the squared tower with a foursided roof in the exterior are the most interesting features of this religious building. The seventeenth-century San Sebastián or Jesús Nazareno (Jesus of Nazareth) Chapel has one barrel-vaulted nave and richly decorated stalls. The hexagonal Lady chapel boasts an image of Jesus of Nazareth and is exuberantly decorated with geometric and vegetation figures combined with a peculiar series of mirrors. The place is crowned by a double dome structure. FIESTAS The Fair is held in the middle of August, starting with the procession that takes the image of Our Father Jesus of Nazareth from the San Sebastián Chapel to the Parish Church, after a centuries-old tradition, born in the seventeenth century. On the following day, the processions of the images of the local patron virgin (Our Lady of Grace) and patron Saint (St. Hyacinth) take place. Riogordo . Routes and excursions . Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Snails cooked in stock are a gastronomic delight in Riogordo. You can also try chickpea stew, porra, hawthorn mushrooms, migas and gazpacho with broad beans, also known as gazpacho cortijero. In Riogordo, they make traditional hornazos but shaped like animals, and cold meats are delicious. Oil cakes are the confectionery highlight here. . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions FOOD Routes and excursions 150 Holy Week celebrations in Riogordo see 400 people taking to the streets to participate in the re-enactment of the Passion of Christ on Good Friday and Holy Saturday against a beautiful natural backdrop. The Passion is made up of 14 stations, grouped into two very different parts: the first shows some events in Jesus' life, such as the Sermon on the Mount, the healing of a blind man, Jesus meeting the Samaritan woman…), while the second part involves the Passion itself. The texts performed have changed over the years until they reached their peak, now being an excellent example of religious drama. The fervour of local people involved create an atmosphere that will impress thousands of believers and non-believers alike. . From May 27th to 29th, they celebrate la veladilla, a cattle fair at which food plays a main role, since the star dish in town, snails, is eaten almost by everybody. The fair is also held in El Calvario. The Feria del Candil (bonfire festival, on September 7th) is a traditional celebration in Riogordo. They put out bonfires and organise bonfire contests. The sanjuaneo (on St. John's Eve, June 23rd) is quite peculiar here, for water is the protagonist rather than fire. Young people throw bucketfuls of water to one another until they get soaked to the skin. Riogordo The Fair features the well-known flamenco festival known as "El Río del Cante" and a livestock fair, which is staged in the area known as El Calvario, where young bulls are let loose. There are open-air festivals and firework shows. The final day is dedicated to emigrants, some of whom come back to the village for some days. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 151 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:10 PÆgina 152 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU FROM LOS SAUCES TO CORTIJO DEL PALANCAR . rONDA FROM LOS SAUCES TO CORTIJO DEL PALANCAR RONDA - CARTAJIMA ROUTE QUEJIGALES - TORRECILLA TRAIL The route affords some of the most beautiful landscapes in the area, boasting magnificent gullies or ravines like Tajo de Alberca (gorge) or Cañada de la Cuesta de los Hornillos. It is normally not very crowded, so you can walk slowly while enjoying the views. To start the route, look for the path behind the shelter of Los Sauces to the Cañada de la Encina stream. The first 250m are quite easy to follow, but then the path turns into an uphill one, passing through old mine shafts (the blast furnace of San Eulogio mine are close to this site). Ronda . CONEJERAS TRAIL FUENFRÍA 152 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Length: 6km Estimated time: 3 hours, 30 minutes. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: shelter of Los Sauces (Ronda). End of route: Cortijo del Palancar (Ronda). Itinerary: shelter of Los Sauces (Ronda), Casa de Huarte, Los Algarabeos fountain, Arenitas, Cortijo de Palancar (Ronda). We leave Casa de Huarte behind and reach Fuente de los Algarabeos, beneath the Las Camaretas hill. There's one more stream flowing down from Pico del Jarro. Over the left slo- When we reach the Cortijo, we continue walking on the same trail up to a path leading to Huarte. Turn left; there's a road to Los Sauces, both the beginning and end of our route. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . . Routes and excursions ROUTE ALONG THE FUENFRÍA STREAM There's a fork a few kilometres ahead, with De La Cruz hill on the left and a path that goes down on the right. Take the latter, which leads to a Spanish fir forest, an ideal spot to sit for a while. Then we'll come across a torrent. TECHNICAL DATA Routes and excursions THE ALMORAVID ROUTE, ON FOOT Ignore every diversion and go on straight ahead. You'll find a fence between the estates of Huarte and Cortijo del Peñón de Ronda. The spot is known as Arenitas. On passing through the gate, we'll take the path bypassing the crag and start climbing down. There are holm oaks all over the place, from which we can see the Cortijo del Palancar. . FROM RONDA TO CUEVAS DEL BECERRO pes there's a vast Spanish fir forest, known as Pinsapar de Cubero, which we saw far away earlier on our way. Ronda The higher we get the more magnificent the views we'll enjoy. The Tajo de Alberca is to the left of the gully we're climbing, and the Las Camaretas hill lies between us and the Cuesta de los Hornillos. A bit farther away you can see the Pinsapar de Cubero. FROM RONDA TO HUNDIDERO 153 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:10 PÆgina 154 FROM LOS SAUCES TO CORTIJO DEL PALANCAR TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Ronda Ronda Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border Nature Park border Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 154 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 155 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:10 PÆgina 156 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU RONDA CARTAJIMA ROUTE Cartajima, the highest village of the Genal Valley, is the final destination on the route that links this area with the Ronda plateau. The itinerary begins at the cultivated fields surrounding Ronda, behind San Francisco, right in the area of the San Acacio Spring. The path soon leaves behind the built-up area, and it turns stony, particularly by the remains of the old mill known as Viña Arcadio, which will help us find our way around. . Routes and excursions . 156 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions A few metres ahead, we'll find a stream. Turn left, where extensive fields open up before us, Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents From La Moraleja we can access the valley by walking on a path running along a metallic fence: a guide that will lead us to the remains of another cortijo or country estate. Here we should take the path to the right, which will lead us to the road. Keep walking 1km along the road up to Cartajima. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Length: 10km Estimated time: 5 hours. End of route: Cartajima. Itinerary: Fuente de San Acacio de Ronda, Viña Arcadio, De las Culebras stream, Cortijo del Canalizo, La Moraleja plain, Armola peak, Cartajima. The path leads to the Cortijo del Canalizo; it runs through houses and passes through several diversions which can be quite confusing. Don't leave the path surrounding the hill, an area in which the holm oaks we've been seeing until now will begin to thin out. Routes and excursions TECHNICAL DATA or La Moraleja plain. Those who normally follow strenuous hiking trails can stop by and then climb up to Cima del Armola, the peak right before us which affords magnificent views of the Genal Valley. . carry water. Keep ascending until you reach a plain; there we'll see three paths: take the central one. Ronda Ronda At this point, we'll start climbing by De las Culebras stream, whose bed normally doesn't 157 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:10 PÆgina 158 RONDA - CARTAJIMA ROUTE TOURIST BOARD & Ronda Ronda Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . 158 CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border Nature Park border Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 159 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 160 TOURIST BOARD & QUEJIGALES TORRECILLA ROUTE This trail is one of the main routes across Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, since it leads up La Torrecilla peak, the highest point of the park, in Sierra Blanca, Tolox (1,919m). Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions From this spot, the forest gets increasingly thinner up the Puerto de los Pilones (1,750m), whose trail comes out at a small plain where the trail leading to Puerto del Hombre ends. Puerto de Los Pilones affords magnificent views of Torrecilla and the mountain range. On sunny days, you can even see the Atlas Mountains, in Morocco, or the Strait of Gibraltar, the sea and some boats sailing past. The high mountain landscape boasts stony areas covered in laburnum and a few Spanish firs, with La Nava forest to the right. On the Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 160 On leaving the pine forest behind, we'll start a zigzagging trail up to a Spanish fir forest featuring old specimens with twisted trunks, 1,600m in height. Look up and you'll be able to watch great spotted woodpeckers, goshawks, goldcrests, crested tits, nuthatches; in winter, fieldfares or ring ouzels. Routes and excursions Length: 7.5km Estimated time: 4 hours. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: Casa Forestal de los Quejigales (Ronda). End of route: La Torrecilla (Tolox). Itinerary: Casa Forestal de los Quejigales (Ronda), Del Sabinal path, Cañada del Cuervo gully, Los Piñones peak, Pilar de Tolox, La Torrecilla peak (Tolox). With some 200m to climb yet, on a zigzagging trail up to La Torrecilla on the eastern slope we'll reach the peak (1,919m), which affords breathtaking views. . . TECHNICAL DATA From Los Quejigales, we walk some 500m on the Sabinal path towards northeast, and we'll see the first waterbed to the right. It runs down the Sierra de la Nieve slopes. To reach it, we'll leave the path and walk across the pine forest. The ground can get waterlogged until we arrive at Cañada del Cuervo, since there are brooks flowing to the Carboneras Stream. We'll see the relay station and the repaired and other neglected snow holes to the left and take a well signposted path. After a while we'll come across a new path to the left, but we'll continue straight ahead towards Pilar de Tolox, a strategic spot to fill our bottles with water and get our strength back before engaging in the last ascent. Over the Pilar de Tolox, on a steep rocky area, there's a sort of cave boasting a statuette of the Our Lady of the Snows. Ronda Ronda It's a straight, moderately difficult path, 7.5km long. Allow about four hours to complete it. The best time to follow it is at the snow season because it is then that the peaks get particularly beautiful, with their white snow blankets. Anyway, try to plan your trip in any season except for the summer. First, we take the Ronda - San Pedro Alcántara road (C-339), at Km.136, on a dirt path that goes deep into the park up to a petrol station. The path, 12km long, comes out onto a recreational area at which the Casa Forestal de los Quejigales stands. way, we'll be able to see the same species as in the previous paths, but this one has also wheatears, redstarts, rock-thrushes, common whitethroats, and hedge sparrows in winter. CONVENTION BUREAU The route is ideal to get close to the Sierra de las Nieves mountain range. It combines numerous vegetation communities, incredible scenic views and the possibility of experiencing snowfalls if we choose to follow it in winter. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 161 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 162 QUEJIGALES - TORRECILLA ROUTE TOURIST BOARD & . . 162 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions Ronda Ronda CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border Nature Park border Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 163 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 164 TOURIST BOARD & FROM RONDA TO HUNDIDERO The route combines an attractive village, Ronda, with the natural beauty of our final destination: the entrance to the Cueva del Hundidero (cave). This is the reason why we recommend it to all kinds of people, interested in different aspects of the land. When the first ascent ends, we'll find a road with traffic normally going by. At the only house standing there, we'll head rightwards (if we take our left, we'd go to Montejaque). Let's walk straight ahead and we'll find a junction and see a signpost indicating the direction to the well-known Cueva del Hundidero (cave). Here, we leave the road and take a dirt path downhill towards an old mill which is no longer operating. It's quite a flat land all around, except for an area where a steep, strenuous trail takes us into the ravine and the entrance of the Hundidero cave. This is a difficult but attractive stretch, with contrasting views you won't see hardly anywhere else in the area. CONVENTION BUREAU Mures (hill). At the beginning, there's the typical olive grove fields, which fade out little by little, among asparagus fields and scrublands. Those interested in geology will find the route quite interesting, for they'll enjoy the capricious shapes of the rocks, which make a different backdrop every step we take. Ronda Ronda We start on the road from Ronda to Puerto de Montejaque, then we'll climb across an area known as Huerta Nueva, towards the Cerro TECHNICAL DATA . . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 164 Routes and excursions Length: 6km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: easy-moderate. Beginning of route: road from Ronda to Montejaque (Ronda). End of route: Cueva del Hundidero (Montejaque). Itinerary: road from Ronda to Puerto de Montejaque (Ronda), Huerta Nueva, Cerro Mures, Cueva del Hundidero (Montejaque). Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 165 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 166 FROM RONDA TO HUNDIDERO TOURIST BOARD & . Routes and excursions Road Province border Nature Park border . . 166 Routes and excursions Itinerary . End of route Ronda Ronda CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 167 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 168 TOURIST BOARD & While walking across the flat land we'll find oak groves and cultivation fields like those that once covered the plain of Ronda. On exiting Ronda, from the A-367 highway starts a road that passes by Quesería Rondeña plant. This is where our route begins. We'll take a paved lane and walk until we find another path that runs across cultivated fields. Then we'll return to the highway at the El Cortijo camping area. Ronda . Routes and excursions . Get into the Cortijo de Santiago, then Cortijo de Prao Medina. To the left, you'll see a path that lets us know we've reached our final stretch to reach Cuevas del Becerro. . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes and excursions 168 La Parchite, an old railway station, is our next stop. The indications on the GR-7 show us the way to an quiet oak grove we can take a break at. Just a few metres ahead is the road to Campillos, which we'll follow for some kilometres and then take a path to the right. The Cortijo de las Pilas indicates we're on the right way before we access the Serrata game preserve. . Length: 27km Estimated time: 7 hours. Difficulty: moderate / strenuous. Beginning of route: Quesería Rondeña plant (Ronda). End of route: Cuevas del Becerro. Itinerary: Quesería Rondeña plant (Ronda), El Cortijo camping area, bridge over De la Ventilla stream, GR-7 path, Campillos road, Cortijo de Las Pilas, game preserve of Serrata, Cortijo de Santiago, Cortijo de Prao Medina, Cuevas del Becerro The route joins the GR-7, one of the long trails across the Peninsula. There are numerous signs here. Head towards Arriete to take the Alcalá del Valle road. Ronda TECHNICAL DATA CONVENTION BUREAU FROM RONDA TO CUEVAS DEL BECERRO Walk along the road and take a path to the left that passes behind a group of houses. The next point of reference is the bridge over the De la Ventilla stream. There's a tunnel: don't go through it, follow the left lane instead. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 169 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 170 FROM RONDA TO CUEVAS DEL BECERRO TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Routes and excursions Ronda . Routes and excursions . . . 170 Ronda Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border District border Nature Park border Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 171 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 172 TOURIST BOARD & Puerto de Lifa, from which we'll start going downhill along 3km Then we'll pass by the Arab tower, which used to be a watchtower over the Lifa Valley, which we'll walk across as well. Some 4km ahead, there's a sign indicating the way to Sierra Hidalga. Follow this direction. We'll go through a gate and reach We strongly recommend that you go up the Sabinal stream, since this path affords beautiful views. CONVENTION BUREAU THE ALMORAVID ROUTE, ON FOOT 5.5km farther, the grain fields disappear, and the toughest stretch of the climb starts. We'll reach a gate and start climbing in a zigzag. The views of the northern slopes of Sierra Hidalga range are really impressive. Nowadays, the itinerary is dotted with grain fields, in the old days it was a Mediterranean oak wood. We'll come across the Arab tower of Lifa's remains. TECHNICAL DATA . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . . Routes and excursions . Length: 24km Estimated time: 6 hours. Difficulty: moderate / strenuous. Beginning of route: junction at Ronda's ring road. End of route: El Sabinal stream surroundings (Ronda). Itinerary: junction at Ronda's ring road, bridge over La Toma stream, Cerro de La Pastora (hill), Puerto de Lifa, El Sabinal stream (Ronda). Routes and excursions 172 Ronda Ronda The route starts at the junction of Ronda's ring road, on a path heading eastwards. There's a sign post that reads "Route de los Almorávides." Soon, we'll cross a bridge over the La Toma stream, and after leaving behind the Cerro dela Pastora (hill), to the right, we'll make out the first grain fields. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 173 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 174 THE ALMORAVID ROUTE, ON FOOT TOURIST BOARD & . End of route . Itinerary Routes and excursions Road Province border Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions Ronda Ronda CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route 174 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 175 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 176 TOURIST BOARD & This is a pleasant stroll along one of the areas in Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, which can be accessed by car taking the road from San Pedro Alcántara to Ronda. 2km ahead, there's a plain at which you'll read a sign of the Consejería de Medio Ambiente, where the route proper starts. a vast raised area. When we arrive at it, we'll go on along the right side of the plain up to an area two country estates stand in. We'll get across a small stream there. A few metres more, and we'll find a wire fence around a cattle field. Just keep on walking parallel to the fence. Only a short distance away, we'll find the Fuenfría stream and walk along its right bank. The route combines some easy stretches with others with a stony ground which might be quite uncomfortable. While going upstream, we'll arrive at a small hut, which indicates we have to go back. It will take us one hour to reach our starting point. We'll arrive then at a gate we'll jump over. To the left, there's a way down towards the Fuenfría stream. As we approach the stream, we'll leave the oak grove behind and make out CONVENTION BUREAU ROUTE ALONG THE FUENFRÍA STREAM The route is quite easy, so let's look around and enjoy our nice stroll. We'll turn right and head towards a stream which we'll follow on our way uphill. Ronda Ronda At the beginning, we'll have to walk uphill towards Fuenfría. Then, we'll arrive at an area of flat ground with a pond. We'll go through this area on the left side and then follow the dirt path leading to the oak wood. . Length: 5.5km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: San Pedro Alcántara Ronda road (Ronda). End of route: Fuenfría stream (Parauta). Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 176 Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . TECHNICAL DATA Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 177 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 178 ROUTE ALONG THE FUENFRÍA STREAM TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border Ronda Ronda Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . 178 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 179 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 180 TOURIST BOARD & The route starts at the access to Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, on the A-339 highway from Ronda to San Pedro Alcántara, Km. 136, some 12km from Ronda. It's an easy, round itinerary, 3km long, which will take us just one hour. oak grove and a path that runs parallel to the stream. While we go downstream, we'll be able to see the Conejeras Mount and Madroñales to the left, and La Nava de San Luis, a rural inn and a mouflon and fallow deer hunting area to the right. At the crossroads, take the left road to return to the beginning of the route. The path starts as a short, slow climb that ends at a fenced pond that the forest fire service takes water from to fill fire engines and firefighting helicopters. We'll walk along the pond left shore and then on a dirt path that leads to an We'll be able to watch mammals, such as foxes, wild cats, genets, birds like jays, wood pigeons, robins or warblers, and birds of prey likekestrels, booted eagles, short-toed snake eagles, sparrow hawks and tawny owls. CONVENTION BUREAU CONEJERAS TRAIL FUENFRÍA Then there's an expanding oak grove, on whose borders dwarf evergreen oaks and peonies grow alongside some Spanish firs rising up the foliage. Take the path to the right, Sendero de Conejeras, which runs through a beautiful oak grove in a place known as Los Madroñales and ends at the Fuenfría road. Ronda Ronda Once on the road, our first reference is Fuente de Conejeras and the block of stone honouring one of the fire fighters who died in 1998 while on duty: Antonio Juan Roldán Ramos. Farther ahead is the Parauta camping area, which has a restaurant-bar, toilets, and a shelter. TECHNICAL DATA . . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 180 Routes and excursions Length: 3km Estimated time: 1 hour. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: Ronda - San Pedro Alcántara highway (A-339),Km. 136 End of route: Fuenfría (Parauta). Itinerary: Ronda - San Pedro Alcántara highway (A-339), Km.136, Fuente de Conejeras, Parauta camping area, Conejeras trail, Los Madroñales, Fuenfría road Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 181 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 182 CONEJERAS TRAIL - FUENFRÍA TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route End of route Itinerary Road Province border Ronda Ronda Nature Park border Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 182 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 183 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 184 TOURIST BOARD & Following the fall of the Roman Empire, Ronda and Acinipo were invaded by Germanic tribes. Acinipo was even occupied by the Byzantines, who left it in the seventh century when the Visigoths set foot on Ronda. Later, the Arabs named it Izna Rand Onda. It was during the Arab rule that the town gained political and economic relevance. When people get to Ronda for the first time, they must have seen a postcard depicting some of the town's typical monuments or spots but these images will fade out as soon as they face the real places. Ronda is one of those towns that can only be included in a one-of-a-kind category, and visitors can check this out when they go to the old quarter and see its magnificent architecture, which reveals the town's history and legend making it unique and unforgettable. At the turn of the tenth century, the entire mountain range, and especially the city of Ronda, witnessed Umar ibn Hafsun's uprising against the Caliphate of Córdoba while setting in Bobastro (Ardales). At the dawn of the eleventh century, after the fall of the Caliphate, the Berbers turned Ronda into a taifa or independent kingdom whose great legacy was the transformation and development of the city. . Routes and excursions . You can also take highway AP-7 (N-340), from San Pedro Alcántara, which connects to highway A-376. Follow it to get to Ronda. This is the route most drivers follow from the Western Costa del Sol, since it's maintained in good condition. It's a scenic, winding route. Finally, also via highway AP-7 (N-340), take highway A-377 to Gaucín and exit A-369 just 3km before Ronda. WHAT TO SEE The city occupies an extraordinary site on a rocky platform overlooking a deep ravine. The river divides Ronda into two parts connected by the eighteenth-century Puente Nuevo (new bridge), offe- Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions In 1810, the French troops, led by Joseph Bonaparte, arrived in Ronda and touched off a rebellion there. The whole region backed the gue- From the Costa del Sol there are three ways to access Ronda. From Málaga City, take the A-357 highway towards Campillos. 6km past Ardales, take the A-367, pass by Cuevas del Becerro and you'll reach Ronda. Routes and excursions The Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans settled there for different periods of time. The Romans, who named it Laurus, built the Castillo del Laurel (castle), from which they watched the warlike Celt-Iberian tribes. Acinipo, however, was more important than Ronda, since the latter boasted a mint, that is, an establishment for making coins. Muslims and Christians coexisted peacefully only for a short time. The Moors rebelled, the mountain region being particularly bellicose, and finally were expelled in 1609. As any other village in Málaga, Ronda had to face a particularly bad period which lasted for years, until the eighteenth century, when the city extends towards the newer quarter, called the Mercadillo, which lies on the other side of the gorge, spanned at its narrowest point by a single-arch bridge, the Puente Nuevo, from which magnificent views are obtained. The bullring was also built in this century. HOW TO GET THERE Surface area: 477.50km2. Population: 36,120. Name given to the local people: Rondeños. Location: In the northern part of the Ronda region, surrounded by Sierra de las Nieves, Grazalema and Los Alcornocales Nature Parks. The village is 740 m above sea level, 113km from Málaga City. The annual average rainfall is 650 l/m2, and the annual average temperature is 15ºC. What to see: Puente Nuevo (New Bridge), House of San Juan Bosco (Don Bosco), Church of Virgen de la Paz (Our Lady of Peace), The Giant's House, Mondragón Palace, Plaza Duquesa Parcent, Major Church of Santa María de la Encarnación (Our Lady of the Incarnation), Town Hall, Church of La Caridad (Charity Church), Church of Espíritu Santo (Holy Spirit), Puerta de Almocábar (Gate), Puerta de Carlos V (Archway), Bandits' Museum, Hunting Museum, Lara Themed Museum, Joaquín Peinado Museum, Minaret of San Sebastián (St Sebastian), Marqués de Salvatierra Palace, Palace of the Moorish King, Arco de Felipe V (Archway), Sillón del Rey Moro, Puente Viejo (Old Bridge), Fountain of the Eight Spouts, Church of Padre Jesús (Father Jesus), Shrine of Virgen de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows), Church of Santa Cecilia, Church of Socorro (Succour), Bullring, Gardens of Blas Infante, Church of La Merced, Reina Victoria Hotel, Mozarabic Monastery of Virgen de la Cabeza (Virgin of the Head), Arab Baths, Roman Site of Acinipo, Wine Museum, Cave of La Pileta (Pool Cave), La Algaba. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza Duquesa Parcent, s/n (29400). Tel.: (+34) 952 873 240. Fax: (+34) 952 875 441. Tourist Office, Paseo San Blas Infante, s/n. Tel.: (+34) 952 187 119. . 184 The cave paintings in the Cueva de la Pileta (Benaoján) are proof of human settlements back in the Palaeolithic period, and Neolithic remains have been found right in the urban area. It was Pliny who mentioned the Roman city of Arunda, inhabited by Celts, north of the present-day Ronda, and Acinipo as founded by the Iberians. Ronda lost its independence in 1066, when it became part of the kingdom of Seville, and was ruled for the following four hundred years by tribes from northern Africa and eventually by the Nasrid princes of Granada. Ronda went through periods of boom and decay under Muslim rule until it was conquered by Christian forces in 1485. With the arrival of the railroad in 1891 and the development of some roads, Ronda enters the twentieth century amidst a remarkable social and economic prosperity. In 1918, the city was seat to the Andalusian Congress, at the request of Blas Infante, who is regarded as the father of Andalusia. The assembly decided on the adoption of the Autonomous Community of Andalusia's flag and emblem. USEFUL INFORMATION Ronda Ronda Ronda has a magnificent setting in a gorge of the Guadalevín River known as Tajo de Ronda, 100 m in depth and surrounded by an amphitheatre of rugged mountains, 750 m above sea level. To the west the countryside extends up to the mountains from which the region takes its name. rrilla bands, an effective movement that survived even after Napoleonic troops left, in 1812. Many guerrilla men became bandits, well-known in nineteenth-century Spain and protagonists of a good number of legends and stories. CONVENTION BUREAU If a writer like Rainer Maria Rilke, who is regarded as one of the most important and influential modern poets because of his precise, lyrical style, describes Ronda as a dreamland, he must be right. Visitors will be able to see for themselves and then remember it as such a marvellous place that it can only be part of their dreams. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 185 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 186 . The Palace of Mondragón, which nowadays houses the Museo de Ronda y la Serranía (museum of Ronda and the mountain range), used to be a mansion in the fourteenth century. The legend goes that it was inhabited by King Abomelik, son of the Sultan of Fez, and later by the Nasrid ruler Hamed el Zegri. Following the Christian conquest, it was owned by Melchor de Mondragón. In 1501, Ferdinand the Catholic spent some time in Mondragón's palace, when he travelled to Ronda to deal with the Moorish rebellion. Some time later it passed on to the hands of Fernando de Valenzuela, Charles II's minister. Although the bridge was completed in 1735 a flood of the River Guadalevín turned it down only six years later. The second project, resulting in the bridge we can cross today, was commissioned to Juan Martín de Aldehuela. Work started in 1751 and ended in 1793. Aldehuela was highly praised for his impressive project -a bridge 98 m high that fits perfectly with the steep gorge of El Tajo. The bridge floor lies on three round arches, the central one over a space that once served as a prison and currently hosts an interpretation centre. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions During Muslim rule, the Plaza Mayor, or main square, was located on what is currently known as Plaza de la Duquesa de Parcent, at the highest point of the city. The main Arab buildings rose here: the fortress, the mosque, the souk, the jail... The Plaza's present-day layout is based on a nineteenth-century project which was enlarged and improved by the Duchess of Parcent, who asked Jean Claude Forestier to design a garden. Forestier was an engineer and landscape designer who also developed the Bois de Boulogne Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents The choir stalls, made in walnut and cedarwood in the first decades of the eighteenth century, are particularly noteworthy. The Virgen de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) presides over an altarpiece, and was carved either by Martínez Montañés or La Roldana, but the authorship remains uncertain. In any case, both were excellent religious artists. On the exterior, the Gothic façade features a sixteenth-century double balcony, and there is also a square Mudéjar tower. By the bell tower there's the Casita de la Torre, a Mudéjar oratory decorated with blind horseshoe arches. In the square of the Santa María de la Encarnación Church (Our Lady of the Incarnation), where the Laurel Castle used to be, there rises the Salesian School of Sagrado Corazón. The Laurel Castle was a fortress built by Scipio Aemilianus back in the second century B.C. The Arabs turned it into an "Alcazaba" or Arab fortress, which was later taken by the Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . On the other side, to the left, is the Convent of San Francisco, established during the Catholic Monarchs reign. It served as the Inquisition office for years. In Tenorio Street, to the right, is the house of San Juan Bosco, in modernist style, its gardens offering breathtaking views. In Beato Fray Diego José de Cádiz Street you'll find the seventeenth-century Church of the Virgen de la Paz, the local Patron Virgin. Inside lay the mortal remains of Fray Diego José de Cádiz in a silver urn beneath the image of the Virgin, whose chapel and late Baroque altar are worthy of note. Successive restorations have hidden most of its Arab features, but the structure still reveals an incredible harmony of lines and volumes. The elegant curved façade has Doric and Ionic columns. The noble building is structured around three beautiful interior patios, one of them being a Renaissance courtyard. Built between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries above the town's former main mosque, the Collegiate Church of Santa María de la Encarnación's (Our Lady of the Incarnation) interior is divided into quite distinct architectural styles. Today, only a thirteenth-century horseshoe arch, decorated with stuccowork from the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and a minaret remain from the original mosque. The church was started in 1508, in late Gothic style. The central nave was topped by a Mudéjar ceiling, replaced by a barrel vault after the earthquake that damaged the building's structure in 1580. The end of the temple, with seven chapels, features Renaissance style and the choir, for instance, is an example of Baroque architecture. Routes and excursions Routes and excursions You can walk about Ronda departing from the Plaza de España, in the Mercadillo quarter, where the Parador Nacional de Turismo, formerly, the Town Hall, stands. Cross the Puente Nuevo, the best-known bridge in Ronda, to get to the Ciudad. The bridge was built in the eighteenth century out of the need to connect the older part of the city with the new Ronda. (Paris) and María Luisa Park (Seville) projects. The park boasts the statue honouring the musician and writer from Ronda Vicente Espinel (1550-1624). . . The next stop on the tour is Casa del Gigante, a very well preserved house dating back to the Muslim times. Historians believe it was built in the fourteenth century, as the decorative plaster work is similar to that in Alhambra, erected during Muhammad V's reign. The central courtyard, the pool, the north hall, and the splendid decoration on the arches leading to the bedrooms are all details which stand out in the house's interior. Ronda 186 ring an impressive view of the ravine El Tajo: to the south the Ciudad, the old quarter, with its concentration of sights of interest; and to the north, the Mercadillo or old market area, nowadays extended by the modern town. There are three bridges that connect the Ciudad with the Mercadillo, and there's a third quarter San Francisco, also to the south, whose origins date back to the sixteenth century. CONVENTION BUREAU Ronda TOURIST BOARD & 187 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 188 TOURIST BOARD & . Routes and excursions . To the east of the Ciudad district there's the Palace of the Marquis of Salvatierra, which was renovated in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. The façade boasts Corinthian columns and a magnificent forged iron balcony. In the interior, we can admire the gardens, chapel, furniture and the curb of a well in the yard. On Santo Domingo Street, adjoining the Palace of Salvatierra and the Convent of Santo Domingo, there's the Casa del Rey Moro (House of the Moorish King), on whose front there's a decorative tile depicting a Muslim king. The building dates from the eighteenth century, although it was renovated by the Duchess of Parcent in the first decades of the twentieth century. The amazing gardens were designed by Jean Claude Forestier. A 60m-high stair carved out of the rock connects the gardens with the De la Mina Spring, which flows toward the Guadalevín River. Muslims must have used the spring because water is scarce up at the height Ronda is located. This Arab structure was essential to the Moors at the time Ronda was under siege by Christian forces. When the New Bridge collapsed, the Puente Viejo (old bridge) access was renovated, thus becoming the main link between the Ciudad and the Mercadillo district. The Puente Viejo Gate was replaced by a Neoclassical gate named Arco de Felipe V. By the arch there's the Sillón del Rey Moro (Moorish King's Chair), offering magnificent views. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents We can go up along Santa Cecilia Street and we'll find the Shrine of the Virgen de los Dolores, built in 1734. It's home to an altarpiece featuring a painting that depicts the Virgin Mary. There are four paintings representing public executions, a normal practice centuries ago. In Los Descalzos square, at which you arrive through Los Dolores Street, there's Santa Cecilia Church, built in the seventeenth century. Its Baroque front, though, dates back to the eighteenth century. Walking along Carrera de Espinel Street we'll reach Del Socorro Church, a big NeoBaroque structure built after the previous eighteenth-century one was destroyed. The Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda, the first Royal cavalry arsenal set by Phillip II to train noblemen, was located first in the Plaza Mayor. Two centuries later, Martín de Aldehuela designed the bullring and the Puente Nuevo (new Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Where Armiñán and Marqués de Salvatierra streets meet there's the minaret of Saint Sebastian, in a fourteenth-century mosque that was transformed into a Christian church devoted to the abovementioned saint. The temple, however, no longer exists. The minaret has a square floor plan and a horseshoe arch beneath a lintel and voissoir. On the brickwork you can see some decorative tiles that have remained in place. The upper level was built later, when the tower started to be used as a bell tower. Routes and excursions To the south of the church there is the Puerta de Almocábar (gate), whose name recalls the old necropolis of the area, since al-maqabir stands for cemetery in Arabic. The church was built between the end of the thirteenth century and the beginning of the fourteenth century. Its robust structure is flanked by two semicircular towers and features three horseshoe arches. To the left, there's the Puerta de Carlos V, a Renaissance gate crowned by the Habsburg royal family's coat of arms. The Joaquín Peinado Museum will make us turn off, because it's located in the palace of the Marquises of Moctezuma (Plaza del Gigante, s/n). There are some 200 pieces: oil paintings, watercolours, drawings and prints by this Rondaborn artist within the School of Paris. . 188 From the Duquesa de Parcent Square, we can take Escalona Street and then Armiñan Street, the latter connecting with Cuesta de las Imágenes, where we'll find the Espíritu Santo Church (Holy Spirit), in the place the Almohad watchtower was back in the days when the town was under Christian siege. Construction work ended in 1505. The exterior stands out for its simplicity, its fortress-like buttresses and tall walls. The church interior features a single nave combining Gothic and Renaissance elements. The main chapel's Rococo altarpiece hosts a painting called "La venida del Espíritu Santo" and a "Virgen de la Antigua," showing Byzantine-like features. On Real Street there's the Fuente de los Ocho Caños (eight pipe fountain), a simple stone structure boasting the city's emblem on one side. Besides the eight pipes, there's a water trough on the other side. Adjoining the fountain there rises the Padre Jesús Church, with a beautiful Renaissance bellfry. The church was built in the sixteenth century, but the interior plasterwork decoration dates from the eighteenth century. The Convent of Madre de Dios, attached to the church, was built in the sixteenth century too. It features Gothic-Renaissance and Mudéjar elements. Ronda Ronda The former Militia Headquarters -the present-day Town Hall- lies on one side of the above-mentioned square. It's a huge building whose upper floors feature open arcades. Built between the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, the building's interior boasts a Mudéjar coffered ceiling over the stairs and the assembly hall. There are also two religious buildings in the same square: the Caridad Church and the Santa Isabel de los Ángeles Convent, both from the sixteenth century. Across the Puente Viejo, built in 1616 and restored in 1961, we can reach Real Street and walk towards the old quarter of the Mercadillo district, raised outside the village to avoid the high taxes merchants had to pay within the city limits. Eventually, the area was the most important business zone in Ronda. On Armiñán Street, we can go to three museums: the Museo del Bandolero (Museum of the Bandit), exhibiting one of the most characteristic stories of the Ronda of the nineteenth century, which inspired so many writers; the Museo de la Caza (Hunting Museum), displaying a long-lasting tradition of the mountainous region; and the Museo Temático Lara, in the Condes de la Conquista palace, which displays a notable antique collection and several works of art. CONVENTION BUREAU Catholics and, in the nineteenth century, by the French troops. On leaving the fortress in 1812, the French blew it up. 189 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 190 TOURIST BOARD & has three naves, the main one with the altar at one end. There's an altar at the end of another nave which has a hole beneath that opens to the crypt. The third nave acts as a sacristy. The bullring, dating from 1785 and with a capacity for 5,000 spectators, is one of the oldest and most beautiful arenas. It is entered through an elegant gateway and is surrounded by fine arcades. In the opening bullfight Pedro Romero and Pepe Hillo, two bullfighting stars, participated. Built at the end of the thirteenth century, the Arab Baths are worth a visit as are the ruined settlement of Acinipo, a few kilometres from Ronda. The bullfight museum, under the terrace seating, exhibits sumptuous costumes and various mementoes and photographs of generations of Ronda matadors including those from the Romero and Ordóñez families. . Routes and excursions . Only the theatre (first century B.C.) has remained from the old city. The cavea, carved out of the rock, part of the stage and the terraces have been Routes & Excursions Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The ancient Roman settlement of Acinipo has been wrongly called Ronda la Vieja, as people thought this was the first siting of the city of Ronda itself, but then evidences proved the theory was not correct. Acinipo is 21km away from Ronda, on a plain 980 m above sea level, affording panoramic views of the region. According to Pliny and Ptolemy, Acinipo was part of Celtic Beturia, but in the Roman period it became one of the main cities of the Roman administrative area known as Baetica. Routes and excursions Some 2 kilometres from the village there's the Mozarabic monastery of Virgen de la Cabeza, a complex including dwellings for nuns, cells for a small religious community and a church, excavated out of the rock by Christians under Muslim rule in the ninth and tenth century. The church The excavations made so far have uncovered three rooms topped with barrel vaults and illuminated by star-shaped lunettes that filtered light so that users could enjoy a relaxing atmosphere. Part of the heaters and water piping have been conserved. Experts consider these are one of the best-preserved Moorish baths throughout Spain. . 190 Here we find the Reina Victoria Hotel, dating from 1906. Lord Farrington, a pioneer of tourism from Britain, built it. The poet Rainer Maria Rilke stayed in one of the guestrooms in 1911 or 1912. The room has kept the original décor, some pictures and letters written by the poet, who dedicated some of his writings to Ronda. The Arab Baths, located in the judería or Jewish district, were built in late thirteenth or early fourteenth century. In spite of its architectural value, they were neglected because the practice of public bathing didn't fit Christian morality. In addition the floods from the Guadalevín River ended by covering the baths. When the Duchess of Parcent started some works in the area, the first remains appeared but they were ignored until the state bought the property in 1935. Ronda Ronda Near the Bullring are the Blas Infante Gardens, where the Espinel Theatre, chair of the Andalusian Assembly of 1918, was located years ago. This green space stretches over a plain 200 m above the Guadalevín Valley, offering breathtaking views of the Ronda region. The gardens reach the Alameda del Tajo, passing by De la Merced Church, which keeps St. Therese's incorrupt hand, included by Francisco Franco in his reliquary. CONVENTION BUREAU bridge). The bullring Neoclassical front boasts two Tuscan columns and the royal coat of arms. All these elements are framed by an elegant forged-iron balcony featuring bullfighting motifs. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 191 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 192 TOURIST BOARD & Due to its rugged terrain, the region has had an underdeveloped road network. On the one hand on the one hand, this has been a hindrance to the area's economic growth, while on the other, it has protected Ronda from losing its age-old traditions. This can be seen in Ronda's Holy Week, a celebration that has been held since the fifteenth century. Thus, the Semana Santa in Ronda is markedly individualistic, although it depicts essentially the same history as the others. There are numerous and colourful processions which have a number of images of great artistic value, . Routes and excursions . The Virgen de la Cabeza pilgrimage is held on the second Sunday in June in the Mozarabic sanctuary of the same name. The pilgrims carry the image of the Virgin from the Santa María de la Encarnación church to the chapel, where there is a grand feast with songs, dances and delicious food. Ronda's most international fiesta is without a doubt the Pedro Romero Fair in early September. There Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The Roman pilgrimage takes place at the second weekend in June in Puerto Sauco. This is in fact a Roman-style fiesta that the villagers attend dressed in costumes from that era. There is a parade and the presentation of the goddess Ceres, followed by competitions, games and theatrical performances such as those in ancient Acinipo. Routes and excursions The May Fair, in the second half of May, is one of the oldest cattle fair in Andalusia, since the Catholic Monarchs declared it an official festivity in 1487. On the first day, the tapas' fair is held, and the following days there are goat milking shows and exhibitions of different breeds of livestock. There are events to test the fighting qualities of young bulls, olive oil samplings, the annual dog competition at Llano Margarita, and the "Ciudad de Ronda" purebred Spanish horse show followed by a dressage exhibition. The mountainous character of Ronda can be savoured in local foods such as Ronda-style rabbit, Sierra-style gazpacho, artichoke soup, cochifrito de borrego (fried lamb), pork loin stuffed with mushrooms, or pork leg stews. We can also taste migas rondeñas (local variety of a dish made of fried bread crumbs) seasoned with local chorizo sausage; Ronda-style partridge, Ronda-style omelette, mountain-style trout, squash soup and mountain-style chestnut soup. Cold cuts made in Ronda are widely known for their high quality. As for confectionery, yemas del Tajo (a pastry made from egg yolks) are delicious. Products made by cloistered nuns, especially by those in the Order of Mercy or St. Francis are also excellent. . 192 FIESTAS FOOD Ronda Ronda preserved. The stage is made of granite. Remains of a Roman bath, two houses and a temple have been found as well. all against the unique backdrop of Ronda's urban layout. CONVENTION BUREAU is an excellent Cante Festival (typical Andalusian songs) as well as the horse harness exhibitions and folklore shows. Traditional Corridas Goyescas, fights in period costumes from the time of Goya are held annually. This bullfight programme has achieved such renown that every year people attend it from the world over, including celebrities who attract a swarm of photographers. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 193 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 194 TOURIST BOARD & OVER THE ROMAN BRIDGE OF SALARES The . sALARES To get to Salares you should take the road A355 from Canillas del Aceituno to Árchez. Our easy route, 5km in length, can be completed in two hours. As soon as we cross the bridge, we'll see a long line of vegetable gardens and orange tree orchards at both sides of our path. We'll see some curves which we won't take. Then we'll take a detour to our left, parallel to the gully's axis. This is a nice area to watch the rich vegetation: ivies, blackberry bushes, ferns… From this point starts the trail leading directly to the local road. If we take the path to the left we'll return to the village, and if we make a right we'll soon reach the La Cruz del Muerto mountain pass. We'll make a right again towards Loma de Fogarate, on the borders of the Nature Park. Here we'll see the town signposts. At the end of this path starts the way that leads us to the main road again. The way back to Salares is quite easy. We'll get to Salares after crossing the Roman Bridge again. Salares Salares OVER THE ROMAN BRIDGE OF SALARES village of Salares nestles on a small hillock in the Axarquía, bordered by two water courses and high hills. The delicious odour of jasmine and orange blossom fills narrow, steep streets, some of which feature steps that help pedestrians climb the slopes. When we arrive at Salares, we park our car in the car park on the street and then walk along El Ejido Street up to the Roman Bridge. The bridge links the banks of the Salares River. In the old days it connected the old mule drive path with Alhama. Also the bridge was used to connect Salares with the Las Minas gully. In Roman times, salt was mined in Las Minas ("minas" means "mine" in Spanish). A few metres ahead there's the De la Mina Spring, in an area that boasts one of the biggest cork trees in all the Nature Park. Some steps farther, there's the so-called Umbría de la Casa de Haro, a nice example of the Mediterranean flora. We'll be able to admire large holm oaks here. Near the Casa de Haro country estate there's a camping area. Past the Casa de Haro we can enjoy some beautiful views of the gully, and at the bottom we'll make out the village of Salares. TECHNICAL DATA . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . . Routes and excursions Length: 5km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: easy. Beginning of route: Salares parking. End of route: Roman Bridge of Salares. Itinerary: Salares parking, El Ejido Street, Roman Bridge of Salares, De la Mina Spring, Umbría de la Casa de Haro, De la Cruz del Muerto Pass, Fogarate Hillock, Roman Bridge of Salares. Routes and excursions 194 CONVENTION BUREAU The trail goes through the Sierras Tejeda and Alijara ranges, an impressive massif rising between the provinces of Málaga and Granada. Somewhat plain stretches combine with higher ones such as the La Maroma peak, the main vantage point in the area, which offers spectacular views of the Mediterranean. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 195 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 196 OVER THE ROMAN BRIDGE OF SALARES TOURIST BOARD & Itinerary Road CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route District border Salares Salares Nature Reserve border Routes and excursions Routes and excursions . . . . 196 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 197 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 198 TOURIST BOARD & The bare rocks that crown the highest peaks highlight the colour of the vegetation near the village. The village is watered by the Salares and Sedella rivers, whose water comes from the mountains and irrigate a rich agricultural area. In the areas where water is scarce they cultivate vines mostly. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Routes and excursions . The 1884 earthquake was rather violent but fortunately nobody died. There was, however, considerable damage. Around 30,000 pesetas were received from the Crown as an aid to rebuild houses and buy household equipment. century, it's a Mudéjar church with one nave featuring a crossing and a wooden ceiling. The simple exterior features a gate with a round arch. There's a minaret, which belonged to the old mosque, with a set of bells that have been added later. The red-brick minaret dates from the thirteenth or fourteenth century and was declared a National Historic Artistic Monument in 1979. It's one of the nicest examples of Almohad architecture and art in Spain. HOW TO GET THERE From the Costa del Sol, take the Autovía del Mediterráneo (A-7, N-340) until you reach the Vélez-Málaga ring road. Take the A-335 towards Alhama de Granada. Nine kilometres farther, take the MA-125 to Canillas del Aceituno. At this village starts the MA-126 leading to Sedella, and from here, the MA-127 to Salares. The Roman Bridge over the Salares Bridge, which they still use, stands on pillars supported by rocks on both banks of the river. On the fronts of some houses in the Puente Street they have placed decorative tiles representing the Via Crucis. WHAT TO SEE The village of Salares is situated on a hillock, in a peculiar place whose layout is unique to the Middle Ages: short, steep streets, some forming stairs and all shaping a singular whitewashed village. FIESTAS The local fair is held the weekend closer to St. Ann Day, on July, 26. Saturday morning, a para- The Parish Church of Santa Ana is the most outstanding building in town. Built in the sixteenth Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . The lands of Salares, together with those of adjoining villages (as Banescalera, for instance, which has virtually disappeared) where ceded to Don Pedro Enríquez, Governor of Andalusia. When he died, the domain passed on to his widow. In 1572, there were around 550 inhabitants in Salares and Banescalera. There was a flour mill, an olive oil mill, two trap-nets, twenty farming areas, eight quarries and ten apiaries. Apparently, a high number of people used to engage in silk manufacturing, one of the most fashionable products at the time. Routes and excursions As in many other towns in the Axarquía, after Vélez-Malaga was conquered by the Christian troops in 1487, the Muslim authorities of Salares went to the region's main city on 29 April 1487 to show their submissiveness before the victorious party. Surface area: 10km2 Population: Around 220. Name given to the local people: Salareños. Location: In the Axarquía region, in the foothills of the Sierra de Almijara mountain range. The village is 580 m above sea level, 58km from Málaga City, and 28km from Vélez-Malaga. The annual average rainfall is 670 l/m2, and the annual average temperature is 17ºC. What to see: Parish Church of Santa Ana (St. Ann; Mudéjar minaret), Roman Bridge over the Salares River, Albarrá Fountain, Cerro del Puerto hill. Tourist information: Town Hall, C/ Iglesia, 2 (29714). Tel.: (+34) 952 508 903. Fax: (+34) 952 508 905. . 198 However, the Arabs overshadow the Romans (of whom only the bridge has remained). You can observe the Arab influence in the urban layout and a fortress (we can still see the watchtower) that presided over the old village. USEFUL INFORMATION Salares Salares The features of the Salares area - plenty of water, mild temperature and excellent shelters to hide in in case of unexpected attacks - made the area attractive to Phoenicians, Carthaginians and, of course, Romans, who gave the village its original name: Salaria Bastitanorum, apparently referring to a nearby salt mine. The Moors were ill-treated by the Christians for years, a situation that ended in a rebellion in 1569. The Moorish uprising in the Axarquía started in Sedella, Canillas and Salares, and ended in the famous battle of Peñón de Frigiliana. In 1571, the Muslims were expelled from Spain, and according to the chronicles, 92 lived in Salares. CONVENTION BUREAU Salares is a small district in the formidable massif of the Sierra de Almijara mountain range, along a narrow strip extending on the border of the province of Granada to the north and to the Axarquía region to the south. The Cerro del Puerto hill is 1,658 m above sea level and the lowest altitude, just 7km away, is 480 m, which shows how rugged and steep the terrain is. 199 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 200 TOURIST BOARD & As for pastries, in Salares they make orange roscos (doughnuts), whose recipe is based on the number ten: ten oranges, ten spoonfuls of oil, ten spoonfuls of sugar and one kilo of flour. Then they add fennel seeds, yeast and bicarbonate of soda, deep fry the roscos and sprinkle them with sugar. In Salares they also make an excellent sherry. On January 17th, St. Anthony the Abbot's Day, the festivals are similar to those honouring St. Ann, including a procession that takes the streets in a festive atmosphere with fireworks lighting up the village. In the evening, the feast, and the following day a procession to La Era, with locals carrying the saint's image and animals that are blessed by the priest. When the image of the saint returns to the church, the pilgrims walk around the village and people give them a bread roll, a glass of wine and a tapa. CONVENTION BUREAU de announces the fair has started. In the evening, the image of the Saint is taken in procession, and finally the popular festivity begins. On Sunday, the patron virgin goes in a procession again, this time in the morning, and the festival is held in the evening once again. . Routes and excursions Routes and excursions FOOD In Salares, the foods are similar to those in other villages of the Axarquía, but they have some dishes of their own, such as fennel stews, omelettes, etc. They also prepare migas and gachas with cuscurrones, made with milk, sugar and honey. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . . 200 Holy Week is famous for the procession of the Virgen de los Dolores (Our Lady of Sorrows) and Our Father Jesus on Maundy Thursday. In Salares they have a peculiar way of celebrating the Resurrection: the Virgen de los Dolores is taken only by women across the upper part of the village, while men take an image of the resurrected Jesus along the lower part of Salares. At the cemetery entrance the two groups meet and swing the images to the burst of fireworks. Salares Salares On the eve of St. John's Day, the people in Salares go to the streams or brooks -instead of going to the beach, as they do in coastal townsand wash their face after an old custom. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 201 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:11 PÆgina 202 TOURIST BOARD & The path crosses the valley of the De los Horcajos Brook. Climbing the slope to the right, we get to the area known as Piloncillo. To get there, we have to ignore the many detours appearing left and right. FROM TOLOX TO THE CAÑADA DE LAS CARNICERÍAS . tOLOX FROM TOLOX TO THE CAÑADA DE LAS CARNICERÍAS When we reach the foot of the Piloncillo, there's an extraordinary view of the surroundings, especially of the river bank vegetation at the sides of the brook. There are plenty of poplars and Spanish firs, and the best thing to do here is to take it easy and enjoy the surroundings. Without leaving the path, the banks continue up to a flat area from which you can look up and see the imposing silhouette of the Cañada de las Carnicerías, a mountain mass of extraordinary height, an endless succession of rock and vegetation. CONVENTION BUREAU The route begins as a stroll from the village of Tolox and then goes deep into the mountains. The starting point is a track that leaves town northwards and then we take a signposted path going eastwards. The route offers a good view of the surroundings. When you get to the end, you can also climb to the Cañada de las Carnicerías and get to a flat area leading to the Peñón de los Enamorados crag and Torrecilla Peak. The ascent gives an excellent panoramic view of the Sierra de Tolox range and of the village down in the valley, surrounded by farms. FROM LAS GOLONDRINAS PASS TO TORRECILLA PEAK Tolox TOLOX - LA REGÍA TRAIL . . Tolox OVERLOOKING THE LOS CABALLOS RIVER VALLEY . Length: 10km Estimated time: 5 hours. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: Tolox. End of route: Cañada de las Carnicerías (Tolox). Itinerary: Tolox, De los Horcajos Brook Valley, Piloncillo, Cañada de las Carnicerías (Tolox). Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 202 Routes and excursions Routes and excursions TECHNICAL DATA Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 203 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 204 FROM TOLOX TO THE CAÑADA DE LAS CARNICERÍAS TOURIST BOARD & . End of route . Itinerary Routes and excursions Road Province border Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions Tolox Tolox CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route 204 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 205 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 206 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU FROM LAS GOLONDRINAS PASS TO TORRECILLA PEAK The highest point of this route is the top of Torrecilla Peak, 1,919 m high. Before getting there, there will be endless excuses to stop and contemplate the panoramic views that can be enjoyed from many different points. Tolox Tolox The route starts at the De las Golondrinas Pass, in the Corona Hill, one of the many hills of the well-known Sierra de las Nieves range. From here, you can see the surroundings of Tolox. Many different paths start up here, and we have to take the one on the very left, and get into some forest areas that have been badly damaged in several fires suffered during the last few years. . Routes and excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The route starts uphill as we go through the De la Paloma and Domingo dells. We are 1,300 m high, and after walking in a straight line for a few minutes, two paths open up before us. We must take the one on the right and continue uphill among pines, Phoenician junipers and Spanish firs, while enjoying the panoramic Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents views of Málaga, the Sierra Nevada range, and San Pedro Alcántara. As we climb up, we'll be able to enjoy a peaceful high mountain environment. We still have to get to the Los Valientes Pass, where we can make a last stop before we start walking again to go to the top of Torrecilla Peak, 1,919 m high. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Length: 10km Estimated time: 5 hours. Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Beginning of route: Las Golondrinas Pass (Tolox). End of route: Torrecilla Peak (Tolox). Itinerary: Las Golondrinas Pass (Tolox), De la Paloma and Domingo dells, De los Valientes Pass, top of the Torrecilla Peak (Tolox). Routes and excursions 206 . TECHNICAL DATA 207 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 208 FROM LAS GOLONDRINAS PASS TO TORRECILLA PEAK TOURIST BOARD & . End of route . Itinerary Routes and excursions Road District border Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions Tolox Tolox CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route 208 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 209 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 210 TOURIST BOARD & OVERLOOKING LOS CABALLOS RIVER VALLEY The route described here is a good example of the variety of landscapes you can enjoy in some areas of the Costa del Sol. In only 6 kilometres, it passes through forests, rocky areas and streamside trails. This is not a bad thing though, because thanks to the lack of trees we can watch the landscape fully. In the distance, we can see the De la Regía Waterfall. We continue walking through beautiful surroundings but there are rocky stretches and there In this way, we get to the cliff, one of the toughest parts of the route and also the most impressive. Any time of the year is fine to take this route, but spring and autumn are great thanks to the wonderful colouring of tree leaves. The path opens up as we start going downhill. This is a good moment to relax and enjoy the surroundings, and if you follow the stream, you can't get lost. We find another contrasting landscape here, with willows, reeds and lush vegetation, and the mountains in the distance. The path we're on gets to the forest trail that leads to the Las Golondrinas Pass (a mountain pass that biking fans love). This is the end of our route, before what would be a new and very strenuous climb. Tolox Tolox The Alto de la Cuesta -a promontory located a bit over 4km from the Spa of Tolox- is where we start our route. You can start walking from this point (in this case, the estimated time is longer than stated) or go by car to a place where there is a forest trail and head off from there. A little farther on, we get to a lovely spot with two streams, Del Sapo and Palmarejo, before we get to a crossroads. We have to take the track on our left. This path leads to a peculiar spot, lacking pines or any lush vegetation, since this area is pretty dry. are parts of the trail that go near cliffs, and in foggy or rainy days, we have to watch our steps. . . TECHNICAL DATA Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . . Routes and excursions Length: 6km Estimated time: 3 hours. Difficulty: moderate / strenuous. Beginning of route: Alto de la Cuesta (Tolox). End of route: Las Golondrinas Pass (Tolox). Itinerary: Alto de la Cuesta (Tolox), Los Caballos River Valley, Del Sapo and El Palmarejo brooks, cliff, Las Golondrinas Pass (Tolox). Routes and excursions 210 CONVENTION BUREAU A few metres ahead, we'll encounter a sharp bend to the right where a new dirt track starts. We're above the Los Caballos River Valley, and we can enjoy the first view of our journey, though the landscape becomes nicer when we leave the pine forest and get to a clear area. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 211 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 212 OVERLOOKING LOS CABALLOS RIVER VALLEY TOURIST BOARD & . End of route . Itinerary Routes and excursions Road District border Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions Tolox Tolox CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route 212 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 213 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 214 TOURIST BOARD & TOLOX - LA REGÍA TRAIL TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . After crossing a firebreak, we'll go downhill by the La Rábita Brook until we can cross it and leave to the right a place of old terraces called Huerta de Paco Reina. The trail ends on a forest track that leads to the De las Golondrinas Pass, an important crossroads located between De la Cierva Hill (1,100 m) . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions A little further on, we get to the La Rábita Brook, a place where the toughest part of our journey begins, as it will get higher and higher until we get to the cliff. From this point, very carefully, not getting to close to the edge, we'll be able to behold wonderful views. We fancy them as paintings, where colour is the main character. You'll see the bright green of the grasslands combined with the lustrous green of the rockroses and the gray of the gneiss rock. Routes and excursions 214 We then take the path that starts at that very bend until we get to the Palmarejo Brook, where we can stop for a breather. Farther ahead, we'll find a crossroads and take the path to the left. From this area, which has no trees, we can contemplate one of the two impressive waterfalls we'll find on our way. This is the De la Regía waterfall, and we can also see Los Caballos River. . Length: 5km Estimated time: 3 hours. Difficulty: moderate / strenuous. Beginning of route: Alto de la Cuesta (Tolox). End of route: De las Golondrinas Pass (Tolox). Itinerary: Alto de la Cuesta (Tolox), De las Nieves Inn, Palmarejo Brook, De la Regía Waterfall, Upper Los Caballos River, La Rábita Brook, Huerta de Paco Reina, De las Golondrinas Pass (Tolox). We'll start our trekking from the Alto de la Cuesta, located 4.4km from the Spa of Tolox. There are no paved roads inside the park, only forest trails starting from the road that links the villages of the region. That's why we should leave our car at the De las Nieves Inn, and from there, go uphill some 1,700 m on a forest track until we get to a bend in the track. Tolox Tolox People participating in this excursion will be amazed at the contrasting landscapes offered by Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, where Mother Nature has been extremely generous and lavished every corner with magic and beauty. We'll see the reddish brown peridotite rock in some stretches and the grey mantle of the granitoid gneiss prevalent in others; from impressive waterfalls like Horcajuelos and La Regía, to the more tranquil waters of the many streams we'll find on the way. A palette of Nature's wonders for the enjoyment of trekkers. and Aranda Hill (1,052 m), where other trekking trails start from. CONVENTION BUREAU Wildlife is also rich in this area, and while we walk, we may come across wild boars, Spanish ibexes, mongooses, rabbits, snakes, vipers, blackbirds, and warblers, among others. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 215 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 216 TOLOX - LA REGÍA TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & . End of route . Itinerary Routes and excursions Road District border Nature Park border . . Routes and excursions Tolox Tolox CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route 216 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 217 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 218 TOURIST BOARD & A little bit to the north, at the Cañada de las Carnicerías and the De los Horcajos River, the mountains show impressive vertical cliffs on which small pine woods grow defying gravity. Then the terrain gets less rugged, and olive groves and grain fields start to appear, subsequently giving way to numerous fruit orchards and market gardens, at the banks of the Río Grande river. . Routes and excursions . From the city of Málaga, take the A-357 towards Cártama. Two kilometres past this town, take the A-355 towards Coín and then the A-366 towards Alozaina. Four kilometres before arriving at this village there's a sign indicating the road leading to Tolox. WHAT TO SEE As soon as you get to this village, you'll realise it has a strong Moorish flavour, with narrow irregular streets and permanently whitewashed houses with bright coloured flowers standing out against the white walls. A tour of the quarter called La Rinconada del Castillo is a must. There, the Arab trace is unmistakable. during the Moorish uprising of 1568. It burnt down and was rebuilt later, in 1577, by the construction foreman of the Cathedral of Málaga, Diego de Vergara, who knocked the high altar walls down because they had been badly damaged by the fire. In 1632, the building was restored once again. It comprises one nave and two aisles separated by semicircular arches which rest on square-section pillars. The walls of the castle of Tolox, which is thought to have been built by the Phoenicians, is the oldest architectural structure of the district. The Romans used it when they stayed in the area, and in 883, it was occupied by the rebel Umar ibn Hafsun, who rebuilt it and established there one of his most secure strongholds in the region. It was virtually destroyed at the end of the fifteenth century, and only a stretch of the walls and a passageway remained. The picturesque quarter La Rinconada del Castillo grew slowly in the area of the old castle. The chapel of the high altar and the lateral chapels are all roofed with hemispherical vaults from the seventeenth century. On the inside, there are three eighteenth-century canvases depicting the Marriage of the Virgin, the Epiphany and the Adoration of the Shepherds, attributed to Diego de la Cerda. The square section tower is at the top of the Gospel side aisle, and it seems to The Church of San Miguel (St. Michael) was completed at the beginning of the sixteenth century. It was in there where the Christians took refuge Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions HOW TO GET THERE Routes and excursions This village, like Monda, was given in fiefdom to the Marquis of Villena and Duke of Escalona, in 1509. In 1560, the Inquisition punished the mayor of Tolox because the villagers performed Moorish songs and dances during some family celebra- Surface area: 98km2. Population: About 2,300. Name given to the local people: Toloxeños. Location: In the Guadalhorce Valley. The village is 315 m above sea level, 52km from Ronda and 57 from Málaga City. The average annual rainfall is 750 l/m2, and the average annual temperature, 17°C. What to see: The walls of the castle, Church of San Miguel (St. Michael), Popular Arts and Traditions House Museum, Chapel of San Roque (St. Roch), Spa of Tolox (Amargosa Spring), Inquisition House, house of the Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor, Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park. Tourist information: Casa de la Cultura, C/ Encina 54 (29109). Tel.: (+34) 952 487 333. Fax: (+34) 952 487 108. . 218 The first data about this town are from the Muslim period, and refer to the occupation of the castle by the Muladi leader Umar ibn Hafsun in 833. After his death, the castle was inherited by one of his sons, Suleyman, who in 921 was defeated by Abd-ar-Rahman III, whose troops destroyed the castle. When the village surrendered to the Christians in 1485, the fortress was rebuilt, but in 1498 was destroyed once again. USEFUL INFORMATION Tolox Tolox The first human settlements in the area date from the Neolithic period, as prove the remains (three decorated pottery jars) found in the De la Tinaja Cave, near the Peñón de los Horcajos, 5km from the village. From Roman times, a tombstone from a child's tomb has been found, as well as several inscriptions inside the church walls. tions. After the Moorish uprising and the subsequent expulsion of the Moors, the district was left virtually deserted until the arrival of Old Christians coming from Castile and Galicia, in times of Phillip II. CONVENTION BUREAU The district of Tolox is a part of the Guadalhorce Valley region, but actually, Tolox is linked to the highlands of Ronda, especially to Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, a region that gives the district some of the most beautiful places of the province of Málaga, especially those between the De los Pilones Pass and Torrecilla Peak (1,919 m). When snow covers it all -only a few weeks every year- this territory becomes simply spectacular. 219 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 220 . The House of the Inquisition and the house of the Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor are of architectural interest. The House of the Inquisition was built at the end of the sixteenth century or at the beginning of the seventeenth, and it has a bear brickwork façade with pilasters. The Chapel of San Roque (St. Roch), patron saint of Tolox, is located 3km from the village. It's a modern building (built in the 1980s) of simple architecture, but there is a wonderful panoramic view of the area from its location. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions FIESTAS In the middle of August, the village honours St. Roch, the local patron saint. They are noisy days, the villagers pour into the streets. On August 16 they organise a huge procession. As soon as the image of the saint leaves the church, the villagers perform what is known as the cohetá, a rocket fireworks event (around 60,000 rockets) to escort the image of St. Roch along the entire procession. Another very popular celebration is the Día de los Polvos, a few days before Ash Wednesday, at carnival time. The youngsters throw talcum powder to one other until they get completely white. In the old days, young men used this game to seduce the girls, who didn't go out in the streets that day, so the wooers had to find a way to cover the ladies up with white powder. On December 8, Day of the Immaculate Conception, the cencerrada (from cencerro, "cowbell") of the Day of the Young Girls takes place. It's a celebration of a legend according to which the Christians of Alozaina, knowing the danger faced by the Christians of Tolox, devised a scheme to rescue the villagers who had taken refuge in the church during the Moorish uprising. The small group coming to the rescue used cowbells and other rudimentary instruments to give the impression of a much larger group. FOOD The most typical dishes of this area are tolita soup, bolo, kid stew and gazpacho (a chilled soup made with vegetables). Sweet dishes include a delicious fig roll. Some chroniclers claim that this custom has its origins in a dispute between a Moorish girl and a Christian girl, both in love with the same man. The girls worked together in a bakery and as the argument escalated, they ended up throwing flour at each other. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . The Spa of Tolox (Amargosa Spring) (Tel.: 952 487 091) uses a spring of healing waters, especially indicated for the treatment of asthma and bronchitis. These waters were declared of public benefit in 1871, and the The house of the Hidalgo Fernández de Villamor was built on the sixteenth century and it has a whitewashed façade with artistic grilles. Routes and excursions Routes and excursions The Popular Arts Museum, located at 54, Encina St. (Casa de la Cultura), is a house museum where there are three big halls set as nineteenth-century family rooms: a dining room, a kitchen with old utensils -a bedroom with a wooden bed, an iron crib, a jewellery case, and even a prayer book dated 1864and a hall devoted to farming implements and a few parts of the last oil mill of Tolox. There's also a photography exhibition with pictures taken in the 1950s. Nowadays, the courting process has changed, but the tradition of throwing talcum powder at each other remains, irrespective of genre or place of origin, as many outsiders come to Tolox on that day to take part in such a peculiar celebration. Also in carnival time, the Baile de la Guasa takes place, a celebration in which satirical verses related to the most salient events of the year are sung. . . current hotel has a capacity of 88 . Among other celebrities, Lagartijo and Miguel Primo de Rivera were guests here. Tolox 220 have been erected on top of the minaret of the old mosque. CONVENTION BUREAU Tolox TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 221 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 222 TOURIST BOARD & . yUNQUERA UP TO THE ALHUCEMAR GLEN . 222 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions After walking a few metres, we'll start to see the El Caucón mountain pass. Meanwhile, the path loses height -something very comforting, as it gets less hard to follow. Then the path turns right and goes through a glen, and then it starts going uphill again, first slightly and then more steeply, Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Length: 4km Estimated time: 2 hours. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: Yunquera. End of route: Alhucemar Glen. Itinerary: Yunquera, El Caucón Pass, Luis Ceballos viewing point, Las Colmenas Plain, El Merendero, Alhucemar Glen. Routes and excursions Routes and excursions TECHNICAL DATA We continue downhill until we get to an esplanade before a thick and very pleasant Spanish fir forest. At the end of the woods, there's another esplanade. From all the possible paths we'll find there, we have to take the one on the left hand, which will take us to the Colmenas Plain. The track we are on gets into a rugged terrain that goes up and down and may be confusing. After going uphill to a place known as El Merendero and down again up to another esplanade, we'll see a group of pines that clearly stand out as they are taller than the rest. We have to be very careful here not to lose our way. We'll have to take a detour to the left on a path that goes slightly uphill. . . Although the name Sierra de las Nieves, which means Snow Range, may be surprising for a place in this area, it has a historical origin. During the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, there was a booming industry of ice and snow in Yunquera. The ice and snow were stored in stone pits acting as kind of refrigerators, and then sold and distributed from there. We'll now take a trail that starts to the right of the monument standing on the viewing point. After a few steps, there's a fork in the road. Both paths can be taken: if we take the path on the left, we'll get to the Tajo de la Caína cliff, and if we take the one on the right, we'll climb to the Peña de los Enamorados (Lovers' Rock). Yunquera Yunquera YUNQUERA - LOS SAUCES TRAIL The trail goes through Sierra de las Nieves, a range of the Serranía de Ronda mountains located in the southwest of the province. The villages of Istán, El Burgo, Monda, Parauta, Tolox, Yunquera, and Ronda, all sit on the Sierra de las Nieves range. through the Alhucemar Glen. This is the point at which the landscape gets richer, as the mountainous landscape combines with streams and other lower points. CONVENTION BUREAU UP TO THE ALHUCEMAR GLEN Right at the entrance of the village of Yunquera, there is a forest track going deep into the Sierra de las Nieves range. This is the beginning of the route that will take us to the Caucón mountain pass. After walking 5km, the track bends to the left and then continues on a straight line. After 2km, we'll get to the Luis Ceballos viewing point, where we're likely to find several cars parked. This is the ideal place to park our car if we don't want to start the route from Yunquera. If you do start from Yunquera though, the trail will be 7km longer than previously stated. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 223 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 224 UP TO THE ALHUCEMAR GLEN TOURIST BOARD & . Routes and excursions Itinerary Road District border Nature Park border Routes and excursions . . 224 . End of route Yunquera Yunquera CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 225 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 226 TOURIST BOARD & T he route starts at the village of Yunquera, on a dirt track right in front of the football field and next to the camping area. The trail is 8km long and of moderate difficulty, so we estimate it can be done in about 4 hours. TECHNICAL DATA . Routes and excursions . At this point, under Del Jarro Peak, we'll see the Cortijo de Huarte, a small farm devoted to the cultivation of highland crops, which has a spring of cool water. The path starts going downhill and we'll have to take a trail that starts to the right and goes by the mines of Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes and excursions 226 We go downhill among Spanish firs until we get to the De Enmedio Cliff and the Del Cañuelo glen and then continue among pine trees till we get to Prado Caballo, where we take a dirt track until we get to the path that will lead us to the Del Monje Cliff. On the slopes of this cliff, among the pines, you'll be able to see some Spanish firs, gall oaks and holm oaks. After leaving the cliff behind, we'll climb to the Huarte Pass, where we'll be able to see the De la Encina Glen. In this glen, the first human element worth mentioning are the remains of the old mines of the Convent. . Length: 8km Estimated time: 4 hours. Difficulty: moderate. Beginning of route: Yunquera Camping Site. End of route: Los Sauces recreational area (Ronda). Itinerary: Yunquera Camping Site, De Enmedio Cliff, Del Cañuelo Glen, Prado Caballo, El Monje Cliff, Huarte Pass, De la Encina Glen, Del Jarro Peak, Cortijo de Huarte farm, Mines of San Eulogio, Los Sauces recreational area (Ronda). We'll go uphill the first stretch of the trail among olive groves and vineyards until we get to a sharp bend to the right. There we take the footpath to the left lined with Aleppo pines. This path will lead us to a dirt track that will take us to the crest. At this point, we can stop and enjoy the panoramic view of the village of Yunquera, the Río Grande river valley, and other villages like Alhaurín de la Torre, Coín, and Alhaurín el Grande. Apart from the villages, the landscape is full of olive and chestnut trees, bushes and pine woods, a nice mix of nature and civilisation. Yunquera Yunquera Yunquera is located on the Sierra de las Nieves range and its natural environment is extraordinarily beautiful, as more than half the lands of the district are at an average height of 800 m above sea level. San Eulogio -an old abandoned mine. Lastly, we get to the Los Sauces recreational area, where we'll be able to rest and cool down, as it's fully equipped with tables and benches, barbecues, fountain, showers, sinks, toilets and parking area. CONVENTION BUREAU YUNQUERA - LOS SAUCES TRAIL This trail is outside the Nature Park preserve area, and the beautiful mountains and the thickness of its forests, full of pines and Spanish firs, will fill us with awe and amazement. It could be said that on this trail, we'll come across the larger pine forest of the Serranía de Ronda range, with paths that go up and down, and deep river ravines. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 227 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 228 YUNQUERA - LOS SAUCES TRAIL TOURIST BOARD & . Routes and excursions Itinerary Road District border Nature Park border Routes and excursions . . 228 . End of route Yunquera Yunquera CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning of route Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 229 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 230 TOURIST BOARD & . Routes and excursions . Although there are vestiges of an earlier Moorish settlement, modern Yunquera was born after the Christian conquest (1485), more precisely when the lands were repopulated by people from Estepa, in the middle of the sixteenth century. HOW TO GET THERE The most advisable way to get to Yunquera is to come from Málaga City, where we have to take the A-357 towards Campillos. After about 14km, we get to Cártama, and right after this village the A-355 will take us up to Coín. From this village, take the A-366 (which is the same road as the previous one, with a different name) up to Alozaina, and from there, on the same road, to Yunquera. From Ronda, we take the A-366 towards Málaga. Twenty-five kilometres after, we get to the village of El Burgo, and after 9km, to Yunquera, our final destination. WHAT TO SEE The Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Our Lady of Incarnation) sits in the centre of town, which has kept its medieval layout. La Encarnación is the biggest church in the Sierra de las Nieves range, and was built in 1505. Most of the present-day structure, however, dates back from the seventeenth century. It has one nave and two aisles separated by cruciform pillars supporting semicircular arches. The vaulted transept is crowned by a small dome decorated with bas-reliefs. The Watchtower is half a kilometre away from the town centre, towards El Burgo. The tower was built in the sixteenth century, and in Yunquera they call it "el castillo" ("the castle"). The information centre of the Sierra de las Nieves Nature Reserve has its offices there. It's built in the shape of a truncated cone -virtually a cylinderclosed by a partial sphere. Its stone walls have deeply splayed openings for defence purposes. The De la Cruz del Pobre Chapel rises next to the local cemetery. It was completed in 1866. Its floor plan is hexagonal and it has a roof with six slopes. The interior is commanded by the image of Cristo de la Cruz del Pobre, reverently worshiped by the locals. The Chapel of Nuestra Señora de Porticate is a little farther away, about 5km It was built in the eighteenth century and renovated in 1929. It's a very simple construction, with a rectangular floor plan and a double-pitched wooden framework. In one of the walls is a small chapel of octagonal Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The Arabs, with their eternal love of water, knew how to take maximum advantage of the abundance of highland springs, and designed a series of ingenious irrigation farms. This agricultural tradition hasn't changed much, as it can be observed today in the areas devoted to cultivation in the Río Grande and Jorox river valleys, while in the high plateaus, olive groves prevail. Routes and excursions It all suggests that Yunquera was never a Roman city as such, but a settlement away from the commercial and political centres of the time, as there are no Roman roads - indispensable structures for the cohesion of the empire- anywhere near the village nor any remains of any other important Surface area: 55km2. Population: About 3,600. Name given to the local people: Yunqueranos. Location: At the western side of the Guadalhorce Valley Region, bordering with the region of Ronda, in the heart of the Sierra de las Nieves range. The village is 680 m above sea level, 36km from Ronda and 63 from the city of Málaga. The area has an average annual rainfall of 910 l/m2, and an average annual temperature of 16.4°C. What to see: Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Our Lady of the Incarnation), Shrine of Cruz del Pobre (Poor's Cross), Watchtower, Chapel of Our Lady of Porticate, La Torrecilla (Little Tower), Sierra de las Nieves, Yunquera Spanish Fir Grove, The Snow Wells, Rise of River Grande, Reservoir of the River Grande, Los Positos de Río Grande. Tourist information: Town Hall, Plaza de la Constitución, 13 (29410). Tel.: (+34) 952 48 26 09. Fax: (+34) 952 482 905. Tourist Information Office, C/ del Pozo, 17. Tel.: (+34) 952 482 609. . 230 The village sits on one of the two existing passes available to go rather easily through the eastern mountains of the Serranía de Ronda range. This, along with the abundance of water pouring from the springs, suggests that this region may have been inhabited since prehistoric times, though it wasn't until Roman times that a permanent settlement was established, comprising both farms and villas. USEFUL INFORMATION Yunquera Yunquera Even outside the boundaries of the Nature Park, the lands of Yunquera offer visitors some places in which the combination of hills and valleys -with the ubiquitous presence of the Spanish fir- creates extraordinarily beautiful scenery, such as can be observed in the surroundings of the ruins of the Convent of Nuestra Señora de las Nieves (Our Lady of the Snows), on the boundary with the district of El Burgo. The enumeration of "unique" places of this district would be as endless as it would be pointless to keep on talking about the beauty of a territory that has been blessed by Nature with almost everything. All this will be evident to the visitor approaching Yunquera. structure, except for the two bridges on the road to Ronda. It is known, though, that the Romans named this area Juncaria, which means "meadow of reeds." CONVENTION BUREAU The district of Yunquera benefits from the exceptional landscapes and ecological assets of the Sierra de las Nieves range. The area is part both of Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park and its surroundings, which have been declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. The traveller will thus be entering one of the most beautiful areas in the entire province of Málaga, and also one of the best protected, due to the strict regulations for any activities carried out in this region, because of its new international status. 231 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 232 TOURIST BOARD & The Moorish watchtower called the Torrecilla stands also away from the village (about 4km) and 1,700 m from the road to Ronda. It has cylindrical shape and has retained part of its original rendering. It's 5,2 m in diameter and 11 m high. Its construction is solid the first 6 m and the living quarters are above that. FIESTAS . Routes and excursions . On July 16, this village celebrates what is known as "El Traslado" (The Move) which consists in carrying the Virgin of Mount Carmel from the Chapel of Porticate (the small image of the Virgin of Mount Carmel, called of Porticate) to the village, and taking the large image of the Virgin of Mount Carmel, also in a procession, from its church to Porticate. The images stay a month at their temporary locations. Once the month is over, the Small Virgin is taken to Porticate again (on August 15), in this occasion in a pilgrimage. At half way, a bunch of grapes is placed on the Virgin's hands and a jasmine garland around her neck. When the pilgrims get to Porticate, a meal is organised, and in the evening, everybody returns to the village. The celebrations in homage to the patrons of the village -the Virgin of the Rosary and St. Sebastian- take place on October 7, when some of the oldest traditions of the village are remembered, like, for instance, the offering of grapes. After the devotional rites, a treading of grapes is organised at the village square in which everybody is welcome to participate. On this same day as of 7am, a Dawn Rosary is prayed mostly by women who gather and walk down the streets praying. Afterwards, they have breakfast at the square with churros (a kind of fritter), sweets and chocolate. Routes & Excursions www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents FOOD The main ingredients of the cuisine of Yunquera are meat -both game and farm-raised-, vegetables, olive oil, flour, and wine. Traditional dishes include rabbit fried with garlic, caldereta (a stew, usually made with kid), pirriñaca (fried blood with onions, tomato and pepper), tomato soup, and colmenilla (whose main ingredient is a mushroom that grows under Spanish firs). Cazuela (a casserole), cabbage stew, and homemade sausages (chorizo, salchichón, black pudding, and morcón) can be added to the most genuine menu of Yunquera. We mustn't leave out the empanadilla (pasty) with cabellos de ángel or sweet pumpkin filling, the fritters and must. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The eve of St. John's Day (June 23) is known in Yunquera as the celebration of "Los Juanes" (the Johns). This is one of the few places in which this celebration has a religious side, as altars are set on the streets, highly decorated with plants, blankets, flowerpots and even dolls. All these elements are arranged around a framed image of a saint. Of course, these activities are accompanied by a great night party in which a doll previously stuffed with firecrackers is burnt, so that the celebrations don't go unnoticed. Routes and excursions On Good Friday, at dawn, the Virgin of Solitude is carried in a procession attended by virtually everyone in the village. The image of the Resurrected The village is decorated with flowers and plants for the festivity of Corpus Christi, and the so called "mesas" (tables) are set up, with an image of Our Lord usually decorated with flowers and candles. The procession stops at each table, where they say a prayer, and petals are showered on the monstrance. The procession ends at the village square before a large table. . 232 The village celebrates Holy Week with great fervour. On Maundy Thursday, a procession in homage to Our Father Jesus of Nazareth and Holy Mary of Health and Hope takes place. On Good Friday, at dawn, a Via Crucis starts from the Del Cristo de la Cruz del Pobre Chapel, in which only men participate. In the afternoon, the Holy Sepulchre, Holy Mary of Sorrows and the True Cross, and the Cristo de la Cruz del Pobre are carried in procession. The processions meet next to the cemetery and the Cristo de la Cruz del Pobre is put in his chapel, while the other images are returned to the parish church. Christ, on Easter Sunday, closes the Passion Week in Yunquera. It's customary on this day -a custom coming from Castile- to pin banknotes to the cloak of the Virgin or the tunic of Jesus of Nazareth, as a sign of gratitude in return of favours granted. Yunquera Yunquera The Carnival, towards the end of February, marks the beginning of the festive year of Yunquera. Street bands, fancy costumes and masquerade contests are some of the events taking place those days, which end up with the burial of the sardine, accompanied by a funeral cortège of mourning widows. When the sardine is burned, the firecrackers inside it explode and the blast is greeted with joy by everyone. CONVENTION BUREAU floor plan with plasterwork-decorated angles. The structure is crowned by a dome painted in the Rococo style of the beginning of the nineteenth century. 233 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 234 contents TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU CYCLE TOURING . . . . . Antequera Axarquía page 248 Western Costa del Sol Guadalteba page 238 page 258 page 268 Málaga-C Costa del Sol . Nororma . Serranía de Ronda . Sierra de las Nieves . Guadalhorce Valley page 278 page 288 page 298 Contens page 308 page 318 235 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 236 TOURIST BOARD & . E PIC AND KNAPSACK CYCLE TOURING THROUGH MÁLAGA'S REGIONS Introduction At the Costa del Sol Tourist Board, we want to include cycle touring in a special section of this guide on active travel because we are interested in promoting and showing our regions to you who will travel across the province on two wheels. The Málaga province is, without any doubt, amongst the top tourist destinations around the world. Everybody knows that the travel industry of the province is quite powerful, but what we want to promote here is a new aspect which we want you to try: cycle touring, an environmentfriendly activity framed within ecotourism or ecological tourism. Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Cycle touring . All the routes described in this guide are perfect for cycle touring, 100% of the roads are paved and bicycle riding is allowed. We've also included details or descriptions of things we believe are worth mentioning for some reason. Therefore, you'll find comments on the cultural life, the arts or foods of the different regions. In addition, there are tables that summarise the main features of each route -mountain passes, altitudes, etc. As cycle touring enthusiasts and lovers of our beautiful province, we want to invite you to come with us and travel across it in an environment-friendly way, using our stamina to ride our bikes and enjoy the most beautiful spots Málaga has to offer. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions We've included a map at the end of each route so that you can see an outline, the landmarks, the name of the roads, the scenic spots, and the springs. We've also indicated the different altitudes, slope gradients and all you might need to know in advance. The maps in this guide are part of Conmunica Mediatrader's map collection. Cycle touring We suggest that you should travel across the different areas in Málaga well prepared to be amazed by the beauty of the spots you'll encounter, to enjoy the monuments you'll see, the food you'll savour and the people you'll The nine routes we've chosen for you to follow reveal the social, cultural and environmental assets of the province of Málaga. This guide will be extremely useful for those who love both nature and riding a bike. . The province's main assets are its nine regions, which contain 101 districts. The regions are Antequera, Axarquía, Western Costa del Sol, Guadalteba, Guadalhorce, Málaga, Nororma, Serranía de Ronda and Sierra de las Nieves. We are pleased to share with you one route in each region. Below you'll find a comprehensive description of each route. You can visit the cities of Antequera, VélezMálaga, Ronda, Málaga or the world-famous Marbella, but what you'll find most attractive are the small villages with whitewashed houses, narrow and winding streets, colourful flowers and traditions, and of course, the wisdom of their friendly dwellers. Introduction 236 This guide is a very useful tool to learn everything about the different regions of the province of Málaga through an environment-friendly activity: cycle touring. To mix sports and tourism will let us know the remote and peaceful spots first hand along lonely roads. We'll be able to get closer to these locations' history, landscapes, artistic heritage, fiestas, foods and, above all, its dwellers, the real stars of the province. The most important topographical features are the sierras or mountain ranges, which are home to beautiful nature areas, some of which aren't visited by tourists at all. Fertile valleys have been cut through by rivers that flow to the Mediterranean Sea, the real driving force of the province as far as tourism is concerned. The sierras, the valleys and the proximity to the sea ensure a mild climate, one of the province's valuable assets. meet. Many of the roads you'll take carry almost no traffic; all of them are paved, though. CONVENTION BUREAU The province of Málaga, in the southernmost part of the Iberian Peninsula, in the western end of the Autonomous Community of Andalusia. Bounded by the Mediterranean Sea to the south, the province of Granada to the northwest, Cádiz and Seville to the west, and Córdoba to the north, Málaga boasts a coastline 161km long. 237 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 238 TOURIST BOARD & . aNTEQUERA made with fried breadcrumbs), pastoril-style kid, molletes (sweet rolls) or sweets made by nuns such as bienmesabe. The route described below combines cycling with nature and culture. For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com CONVENTION BUREAU AMIDST LIMESTONE ROCKS AND MONUMENTS There are monuments, artistic and archaeological assets, and the village of Antequera has kept the most salient symbols of the coexistence of cultures over the years. We shouldn't forget its foods, in which the hojiblanca extra virgin olive oil makes even the simplest dish a delicious one. Popular recipes of Antequera are porra antequerana (cold dish with vegetables and cured ham), migas (a dish The region of Antequera, in the northern portion of the province of Málaga, enjoys a strategic location. In Muslim times, the region linked High and Low Andalusia with the coast and the central plain. Moreover, Antequera is a beautiful area, where the Torcal and the Laguna de Fuente de Piedra stand out. Antequera Antequera AMIDST LIMESTONE ROCKS AND MONUMENTS TECHNICAL DATA Cycle touring . Cycle touring . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Length: 53.1km Elevation gain: : 1,484m Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h Estimated time: 2-3 hours. Season: fall and spring. Traffic is limited in winter due to snowfall. The summer is too hot. Stops: Antequera and its monuments, El Torcal, Boca del Asno. Chainrings: 38x25 or triple. Tips: take your camera. . . 238 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 239 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 240 AMIDST LIMESTONE ROCKS AND MONUMENTS CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: ROUTE: KILOMETRES: TOURIST BOARD & Antequera Alameda, Antequera, Casabermeja, Fuente de Piedra, Humilladero, Mollina, Villanueva de la Concepción ANTEQUERA - LA JOYA - VILLANUEVA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN - EL TORCAL - ANTEQUERA 53.1 ROUTE-METER ROUTE 1: ANTEQUERA-LA JOYA-TORCAL-ANTEQUERA . ROAD DESCRIPTION 508 0.00 C-3310 ANTEQUERA. Roundabout at Plaza de Castilla, by the Bullring 586 2.27 A-343 Junction. Turn right to Valle de Abdalajís valley 653 9.85 MA-437 Junction. Make a left towards La Joya and Nogales 899 14.19 MA-437 Joya-Nogales Pass 697 16.90 MA-437 LA JOYA. City tour. To Villanueva de la Concepción 566 26.30 C-3310 Junction. A left turn takes you to Villanueva de la Concepción 589 27.50 C-3310 VILLANUEVA DE LA CONCEPCIÓN. City tour 952 34.66 MA-9016 Junction. Turn left to Torcal 1225 36.61 MA-9016 Torcal de Antequera Passs 1204 37.20 MA-9016 TORCAL DE ANTEQUERA. Turn to Antequera 862 42.90 C-3310 Boca del Asno. Watch dangerous bends 586 50.67 C-3310 Junction. Stay straight toward Antequera 508 53.06 C-3310 ANTEQUERA. End of route at Plaza de Castilla . 240 . . Cycle touring Cycle touring DISTANCE TRAVELLED Antequera Antequera ALTITUDE Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 241 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 242 TOURIST BOARD & Antequera . Cycle touring Cycle touring Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . . The route starts from Puerta de Estepa (nineteenth century), by the Bullring (1848). Head south to Sierra de El Torcal via Picadero Street and the C-3310. In less than 2km going up, we reach a junction, then bear right on the A-343 towards the Abdalajís Valley. The northern slope of the Sierra, with the Camorro Alto peak (1,369 m) is really impressive. Now the itinerary passes through a Mediterranean wood filled with holm oaks and gall oaks that compete with olive orchards. A tight curve on our left will show us the nice scenery with the Sierra as a backdrop. From here, the road is easier. Then we'll pass by the entrance to Lobo Nature Park, inhabited by four different species of wolves. At Km 9.85, we'll get off the A-343 to make a left and get off onto the road towards La Joya (MA-437). We arrive at Antequera 242 CONVENTION BUREAU The best starting point is Antequera, which Gerardo Diego defined as "the city of white and elaborate churches." Near the beginning of the route, at the end of Infante Don Fernando Street or Estepa Street, as villagers call it, is the incredible San Sebastián square, created in 1508 by a Royal Decree issued by Joanna the Mad. You'll find the imposing brick tower in Mudéjar style, crowned by the peculiar angel (known as the angelote) of the Church of San Sebastián. Other options: walk to the highest part of town to visit the Royal Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor (sixteenth century) and the splendid complex containing the Alcazaba with its Arab castle or, in the outskirts, the well-known dolmens. We should mention here that Antequera is the largest district of the province of Málaga, and the eleventh largest in Spain -Antequera's surface area totals 814 square kilometres. Anyway, it's the cycle rider who will decide what route he or she'll take. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 243 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:12 PÆgina 244 . Cycle touring We'll enjoy the lunar landscape of El Torcal, enter the visitor centre and go back to the road up to the C-3310, to the left towards Antequera, passing through the spectacular spot called Boca del Asno, a natural pass linking the Sierra Pelada of El Torcal and Sierra de las Cabras. Now follows a long and pronounced descent to the town of Antequera. In no time we arrive at the junction we encountered before. This time, however, we make a right. Before reaching Antequera, we pass by the mouth of the La Villa River, which supplies the town with water. This is a recreational area containing a camping area and an artificial lake. We'll find many roadside restaurants serving the delicious foods made in the region. The end of our route is the same place we departed from: the Puerta de Estepa, in Antequera. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Located in the central part of the province of Málaga, El Torcal, hosted almost completely by the district of Antequera, is part of the Subbetic limestone mountains. Although it's not too large, El Torcal has a spectacular karst topography. Concerning its geomorphology, the area can be divided into four distinct sub-areas: Sierra Pelada, Torcal Alto, Torcal Bajo, Tajos and Laderas. - Las Ventanillas Mirador, it provides impressive views of the village of Villanueva de la Concepción, Río Campanillas, Málaga, and weather permitting, the African coastline. - Ruta Verde or green route: pedestrian trail starting at the park area and passing through the Torcal Alto. Difficulty: easy to moderate. Estimated time: 40 to 60 min. Ideal to watch the vegetation, geological formations, the effects of erosion, animals, and to teach lessons on the environment. For further information, please visit "From Village to Village", Antequera, Outstanding Visits, at visitcostadelsol.com Limestone rocks in the area formed from seawater in the Jurassic Period, about 150 million years ago. The irregular surface above large limestone deposits -which are easily weathered and erodedis known as karst topography, which looks as a natural sculpture museum, some of whose "artworks" bear a name of their own. The area is home to a variety of plants and animals: up to 664 plant species have been recorded, including holm oaks, gall oaks, and rowans; and the 116 species of vertebrates that have been identified comprise foxes, Spanish ibexes and, most important, birds, so much so that the area was declared Special Zone for Bird Protection. The most interesting spots are: HIGHLIGHTS - Antequera, "the city of white and elaborate churches." - Torcal de Antequera, a lunar landscape. - The climb to El Torcal is quite tough. - Nature Information Centre, they screen 10minute video on the natural and cultural assets of the area. It features toilets and an information point. Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . We leave Villanueva behind and we'll encounter a difficult stretch with an average gradient of 10% and particular sections with 14% rate. The path draws five open horseshoe-like bends that will lead us uphill quite quickly. At the top, the Sierra invites us to keep climbing and watch kingly griffon vultures hovering over the top of the high mountains. Before heading for the last steep climb there's a moderate stretch on which we'll find two fountains. The climb starts just on the exit to the left leading to El Torcal. A tough ramp 1km El Torcal de Antequera established as Nature Area on 18 July 1989 for its rich geomorphology, flora, fauna and landscape. Cycle touring . We'll encounter innumerable ascents and descents until we arrive at Villanueva de la Concepción. The road goes through the town. Then we turn left onto the C-3310 to start the tough climb up the Torcal. But first we should fill our bottles with water from the fountain in the town square. Villanueva is a beautiful whitewashed village with wide streets and avenues, and landscaped walkways. As it's located near the coast (30km), Villanueva de la Concepción's weather is generally mild. The village hosts the Fiesta de Verdiales (folk music), the oldest of the province of Málaga. This singular festival was declared of tourist interest. EL TORCAL DE ANTEQUERA NATURE AREA . in length with an average angle of 11%, and some sections are 14% leads us straight to the summit. The landscape is worth the physical effort: an amazing rock formation which water and wind have eroded into colourful shapes like the tornillo ("screw"), the ataúd ("coffin"), the sombrerillo ("small hat"), the tortuga ("turtle")... At Km. 36.61 we reach the mountain pass of El Torcal (1,225 m). After a short descent we find an esplanade by the visitor centre of El Torcal Nature Area. A few metres from the centre is the Mirador de las Ventanillas, offering spectacular views to the south: Villanueva de la Concepción right beneath us, the province of Málaga, and weather permitting, the Mediterranean Sea and the African coastline. Antequera 244 one of the most typical areas of Antequera: Torcal Sur. The road makes narrower here and winds its way uphill, featuring some extremely steep stretches, till it reaches La Joya, a pass at an altitude of 899m. A tight bend to our left, by a hamlet leads us directly to the southern part of El Torcal. There are still several kilometres ahead to reach the highest peak and start our way downhill towards La Joya, a small village in the shelter of the southern slope of the Sierra, adjoining Antequera. La Joya, has a population of only 430. From here to Villanueva de la Concepción, we'll go restlessly up and down on narrow, disused roads which herds of goats cross from time to time. These goats' milk is used to make an excellent goat cheese. CONVENTION BUREAU Antequera TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 245 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 246 AMIDST LIMESTONE ROCKS AND MONUMENTS TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning and end of route Itinerary Road Antequera Antequera District border Nature Park border . . Cycle touring Cycle touring . . 246 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 247 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 248 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU TOURS ACROSS THE MUDÉJAR AXARQUÍA We'll make our cycle tour across the Axarquía, a region where different peoples with equally different customs and traditions ranging from farming to fishing in the Mare Nostrum, as the Mediterranean Sea was known to the Romans. We'll be able to choose among the several steep paths and spectacular landscapes of the Axarquía's Mudéjar routes. . aXARQUÍA For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com TOURS ACROSS THE MUDÉJAR AXARQUÍA Axarquía . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring Cycle touring . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Length: 55km Elevation gain: 1,536m Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h. Estimated time: 2 - 3 hours. Season: all year round. Spring, however, is the best one. Stops: Vélez-Málaga, Canillas de Aceituno, Sedella, Salares, Árchez. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take your camera and taste the ajoblanco dish. . 248 Axarquía TECHNICAL DATA Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 249 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 250 TOURS ACROSS THE MUDÉJAR AXARQUÍA ROUTE: KILOMETRES: Axarquía Alcaucín, Alfarnate, Alfarnatejo, Algarrobo, Almáchar, Archez, Arenas, Benamargosa, Benamocarra, Canillas de Albaida, Canillas de Aceituno, Colmenar, Comares, Cómpeta, Cútar, El Borge, Frigiliana, Iznate, La Viñuela, Macharaviaya, Moclinejo, Nerja, Periana, Rincón de la Victoria, Riogordo, Salares, Sayalonga, Sedella, Torrox, Totalán, Vélez-Málaga VÉLEZ MÁLAGA - TRAPICHE - CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO - SEDELLA - SALARES - ARCHEZ - CORUMBELA - DAIMALOS - ARENAS - VÉLEZ MÁLAGA 55 CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: TOURIST BOARD & . ROAD C-335 C-335 C-335 MA-125 MA-125 MA-125 MA-126 MA-127 MA-158 MA-158 MA-119 MA-119 MA-119 MA-118 MA-117 C-335 DESCRIPTION VÉLEZ-MÁLAGA. Town Hall Square, towards Alhama de Granada Crossroads. Follow straight to Alhama de Granada EL TRAPICHE. Keep riding straight ahead Crossroads. Turn right towards Canillas del Aceituno, Sedella and Salares CANILLAS DEL ACEITUNO. Roundabout. Head towards the centre Canillas del Aceituno pass by the Town Hall. Fountain La Rahige recreational area. Stream near the road SEDELLA. Head towards Salares SALARES. Continue riding uphill to Árchez Puerto de los Carboneros. 2.2km of steep descent Crossroads. Make a right towards Corumbela CORUMBELA. Continue riding straight ahead bordering the village Corumbela pass. Descent to Daimalos and Arenas DAIMALOS. Go to Arenas ARENAS. Continue straight towards Vélez-Málaga VÉLEZ-MÁLAGA. End of route at Town Hall square 250 . . 0.00 1.60 3.90 9.10 15.95 16.60 19.37 24.10 27.70 31.93 34.16 38.15 39.80 43.00 44.85 55.00 Cycle touring Cycle touring DISTANCE TRAVELLED . ALTITUDE 53 31 43 126 625 638 611 677 597 630 415 537 601 503 389 53 Axarquía Axarquía ROUTE-METER ROUTE 2: VÉLEZ-MÁLAGA-CANILLAS DE ACEITUNO-ARENAS-VÉLEZ-MÁLAGA Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 251 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 252 TOURIST BOARD & meadows and plains near the coastline you find vegetable gardens, which have extended to the hillsides thanks to the terraces and the modern irrigation techniques. More recently, the region started growing subtropical fruit, like avocados, mangos, custard apples, and loquats. Without a doubt, the Axarquía is a region that displays contrasting features: the light blue sky and the deep blue Mediterranean Sea, the white limestone on the mountains and the green Vélez River valley, the sea villages and the inland ones, the peaceful countryside and the busy tourist coastal areas. over a mosque. On the upper part, the twelfthcentury fortress crowns the city. Stretches of the old walls and the keep of the fortress have survived. The Vélez-Málaga's old district was declared a Historic-Artistic Complex in November 1970. Other monuments worth mentioning are the Fountain of Fernando (Ferdinand) VI, built in 1758, the Convent of San Francisco, the Chapel of Buen Pastor (The Good Shepherd), the sixteenth-century Parish Church of San Juan (St. John), the Convent of the Carmelite Order, the Church of the Convent of San José de la Soledad or the San Marcos Hospital. The heart of the Axarquía is the city of VélezMálaga, located in the Vélez River valley. The Arabs left their unmistakable traces here, principally in the urban layout. The most important building in town is the Parish Church of Santa María la Mayor (sixteenth century), built We start from the Town Hall square and head north towards Alhama de Granada on the road C-335. We'll pass by El Trapiche before taking the MA-125, which goes well into the Mudéjar Axarquía through the Canillas Pass, the way up to Canillas del Aceituno, a beautiful village at the Axarquía Axarquía These lands have been inhabited for more than 200,000 years, as can be seen in the Palaeolithic archaeological remains of the Acheulean culture that have been found. Similarly, Neandertal remains were unearthed in the Zafarraya Cave, and Cro-Magnon paintings can be observed in the Caves of Nerja. Centuries later, several peoples came here leaving traces behind them, especially the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Romans, whose presence was stronger on the coast. However, the Arabs are the people whose influence can still be felt in the Axarquía. They arrived in the eighth century B.C. and resided here until the end of the fifteenth century, when the Axarquía was populated by Old Christians hailing from Castile-León. It was the Arabs who developed farming in the Axarquía. They grew vines, almond trees and white mulberry trees (for silk production), all farming activities that the Christians adopted themselves. Consequently, the Axarquía shows a typically agricultural environment dotted with vineyards, olive groves, almond trees and some cereal fields. Only in the Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring Cycle touring . . 252 CONVENTION BUREAU The word "Axarquía" derives from sharquiyya, an Arabic word meaning "Orient." The region is located to the east of the capital of the province, bordering with the province of Granada to the north and the west by means of a mountain range of the Betic System (Sierras de Tejeda and Almijara) and Subbetic (Sierras de Alhama, Jobo and Camorolos). To the south, the limit is the Mar de Alborán (Mediterranean Sea). The western border is rather controversial, but we might well claim that it's the divide separating the Guadalmedina River valley from the Jaboneros Brook systems. It coincides with the Montes de Málaga road, the famous Puerto del León also known as La Cuesta de la Reina. The region consists of 31 districts whose population is 170,000. The capital of the region is VélezMálaga. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 253 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 254 TOURIST BOARD & Axarquía . Cycle touring - Place almonds in mortar and crush together with garlic and salt. - Slowly add olive oil until you get a soft cream (20 min.) - Just before serving, add water, vinegar and salt. Tip: Some people eat this dish with breadcrumbs and others add muscatel grapes, making a delicious combination. Serve in a bowl rather than in a glass. Never add ice cubes. If you want to learn more on traditional dishes, visit the tourist guide called Popular Recipes, available online at www.visitcostadelsol.com. HIGHLIGHTS - The Axarquía, in Málaga, a region full of contrasts. - Ajoblanco, the Axarquía's magic potion. - Ascent to Canillas del Aceituno, the toughest stretch of the route. AJOBLANCO FROM MÁLAGA No one can leave the Axarquía without tasting its most famous dish: ajoblanco. You can prepare it on your own. Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Preparation: - To skin the almonds, blanch them or scald in boiling water. Cycle touring To our right we take the way to the Corumbela Pass, the last mountain milestone on our route. The stretch is 5.63km long and its average gradient is 3.3%, with some ramps at 9%: quite a difficult stretch, but we should think that it's the last part of our tour before reaching Vélez. We'll reach the top after passing across Corumbela, a village offering excellent local wines. Then, there's the district of Daimalos, featuring the From Arenas to the end of the tour, the path runs downhill until we get sight of the "postcard view" of Vélez-Málaga. We enter the city from the northeast towards the San Roque square, and we reach the end of our route across the Axarquía at the Vélez-Málaga Town Hall. Ingredients (serves 4): 200g almonds, 2 cloves of garlic, 1 cup extra virgin olive oil, vinegar, salt, water, grapes (optional). . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Then we start a short but very steep descent (17% gradient). Our way resembles a children's seesaw until we get to the Carboneros Pass, an easy ascent on one side but quite a tricky descent on the other: 2.2km with a 9.6% gradient. At the end of this steep descent we find a junction. Straight ahead is the road to Árchez, Cómpeta, and the Wine Route. In Árchez there are some attractions, like the minaret tower of the fourteenth-century Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Our Lady of the Incarnation). The minaret is a twelfth-century Merinid gem which was fully restored in 1989. This is one of the main historic monuments of the region, which is why it was declared a Historic Artistic Monument by Royal Decree, on 20 April 1979. Fuente Perdida or Del Amor, whose water has "healing properties and helps people be happy," as they say. After a somewhat dangerous descent we arrive at Arenas, crowned by the Bentomiz Castle. Some time ago, this small village was named Arenas del Rey, as a tribute to Ferdinand the Catholic ("rey" means "king" in Spanish), who apparently stayed here during the conquest of Vélez-Málaga. Worth mentioning is the Parish Church of Santa Catalina, in Mudéjar style (sixteenth century). Although it was affected by a fire in 1926, there are still some remains from the tower, which had been the previous mosque's minaret. Arenas holds the Mule Fiesta every year. Interestingly, the district of Arenas features the highest chameleon population density throughout Europe. Axarquía 254 We leave behind the Vélez River valley as we take our road to Canillas del Aceituno, and the landscape changes dramatically -a combination of Mediterranean flora, olive groves, almond trees and vineyards against the backdrop of the impressive massif of La Maroma. Canillas del Aceituno is the typical Moorish village, with narrow, winding streets lined with whitewashed houses. At the Town Hall square we can refresh ourselves with the water flowing from a fourspout fountain. We might border the village to the south, but we'd miss the magnificent fresh water running down from the nearby mountains. After travelling across Canillas we'll ride eastwards to Sedella. The rugged land oozes water through the pores of the Sierra de Tejeda, in the spot known as "La Rahige," on the left side of the winding road that reaches its highest part before arriving at Sedella. Sedella is a good example of the mountain villages of the Axarquía, with its rugged terrain and surrounded by irrigated terraces where vegetables are grown. The district of Sedella is home to the following hills: Fuerte (1,490 m), Tablón (818 m), and the highest mount, Maroma (2,080 m), which Sedella shares with Canillas. The village of Sedella is amazingly beautiful: houses whose whitewashed fronts contrast with the green vines adorning arcades and patios. The most unique building in Sedella is the Casa Torreón, where the Mayor of Donceles used to live. The house still keeps a square tower in the Mudéjar style with arches on top of Renaissance columns decorated with designs using the Islamic sgraffito technique. This charming village is on the left of our route, which now takes us to Salares. Certainly, the old quarter of Salares is worth a visit. It features a group of narrow, steep streets that make the village a true historical gem. Since you can't drive your car along these labyrinthine streets, the area is a haven of peace and tranquillity. Over the village's heart, the minaret tower stands out on top of the Church of Santa Ana (St. Ann), a square floor-plan building in the Mudéjar style. It was built in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, and the tower was declared a National Historic Artistic Monument by Royal Decree in 1979. Every year the village celebrates the Fiesta of Andalusian Traditions and Customs: AlSarq. CONVENTION BUREAU foot of the Maroma Hill, the real guardian of the Axarquía region. The ascent, over 8.5km in length and an average slope gradient of 7% (with some stretches showing a 13% gradient), is quite hard. We enter the habitat of the Spanish ibex and the golden eagle, the true protagonists of the natural park of the Sierra de Tejeda, Almijara and Alhama. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 255 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 256 TOURS ACROSS THE MUDÉJAR AXARQUÍA TOURIST BOARD & Axarquía Axarquía CONVENTION BUREAU . . Beginning and end of route Itinerary Cycle touring 256 . . District border Nature Park border Cycle touring Road Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 257 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 258 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU A PARADISE STRADDLING THE MEDIATERRANEAN SEA AND THE SIERRA BLANCA . wESTERN COSTA DEL SOL Western Costa del Sol For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com Western Costa del Sol A PARADISE STRADDLING THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA AND THE SIERRA BLANCA This tour combines ecotourism and the sun & sand option, typical of the Western Costa del Sol. From the oceanfront, we'll go to the mountains, specifically to the Sierra Blanca, an oasis of peace and nature just a stone's throw from Marbella. The mountains form a natural barrier that creates the wellknown microclimate of Marbella. TECHNICAL DATA Cycle touring . Cycle touring . . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Kilómeters: 35.5km Elevation gain en subida y bajada: 1,029 metros. Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h Estimated time: 2-3 hours. Season: all year round. Spring, however, is the best one. Stops: Marbella's Old District, Ojén, Juanar Refuge. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take your camera. . . 258 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 259 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 260 A PARADISE STRADDLING THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA AND THE SIERRA BLANCA CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: ROUTE: KILOMETRES: 35.5 TOURIST BOARD & Western Costa del Sol Benahavís, Benalmádena, Casares, Estepona, Fuengirola, Manilva, Marbella, Mijas, Torremolinos MARBELLA - OJÉN - REFUGIO DE JUANAR - OJÉN - MARBELLA . ROAD DESCRIPTION 16 0.00 N-340a MARBELLA. The route starts at A-355, junction with N-340, northbound 55 0.73 A-355 Turn left onto S. Bernabé Street 54 0.90 A-355 Turn right onto Duque de Lerma Ave. 82 1.50 A-355 Flyover highway, by McDonalds. Ride on to Ojén 333 5.35 C-337 Junction. Take exit that brings you to Ojén 327 8.20 C-337 OJÉN. City tour. Continue to Ojén, Monda and Coín mountain pass 556 12.00 A-355 OJÉN mountain pass. Crossroads. Turn right towards Monda and Coín 507 12.99 MA-469 Crossroads. Make a left towards Refugio de Juanar 819 18.28 MA-469 Refugio de Juanar. U-turn at hotel levelled area 507 23.58 A-355 Crossroads. Turn right to Marbella 556 24.57 A-355 OJÉN mountain pass. Stay straight on A-355 towards Marbella 419 28.27 A-355 Mirador Real. Spectacular views of Ojén 82 34.12 A-355 Flyover highway. Continue to city centre via Duque de Lerma Ave. 16 35.47 N-340a MARBELLA. End of route at junction with N-340a . . 260 Cycle touring Cycle touring DISTANCE TRAVELLED . ALTITUDE Western Costa del Sol Western Costa del Sol ROUTE-METER ROUTE 3: MARBELLA-OJÉN-REFUGIO JUANAR-MARBELLA Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 261 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 262 TOURIST BOARD & . Cycle touring . If we own a mountain bike, we can ride along a dirt road that goes uphill towards the Marbella Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions The route passes through a wonderful area, ideal for those who love nature and paths that go nowhere. There's a succession of piny and wild vegetation areas with numerous bushes. We're already approaching Refugio del Juanar (a mountain refuge), a unique beauty spot, a peaceful place surrounded by high summits, including Pico del Juanar, the tall guard of Marbella's coast. The refuge was once a Parador de Turismo, a state-owned hotel in which General De Gaulle stayed. He wrote his memoirs here. Currently, the property is used as a quiet roadside hotel offering excellent food. A tall Spanish fir welcomes us at the hotel entrance. Cycle touring Some time ago, Ojén was well-known for its anise. Today, it's a peaceful mountain village surrounded by nature and where we can taste delicious foods. Following the dangerous At the Llanos de Pula plain, we'll turn left and take a road that goes uphill, the MA-469, somewhat narrow and a bit neglected. The first kilometre is the toughest (average gradient 8.2%), with stretches at gradients over two digits. Luckily, we can enjoy the surroundings, since the path passes through an incredible pine forest. . 262 The route starts at the heart of Marbella, Ricardo Soriano Ave. (former N-340a), by the main treelined avenue, and leads eastwards. After getting on our bikes, we ride on the main avenue searching the A-355 northbound towards Ojén. We'll pass by the municipal stadium, in the high part of Marbella and the bullring. Then we take the A355, which gets well into the Sierra Blanca, inhabited by Spanish ibexes, the true star in the steepest slopes of the mountains. The road gets more and more steep even within Marbella. When we pass a bridge over highway A-7 the land becomes uneven, the first kilometre boasting an average gradient of 8% and some 11% ramps. The condition of the road is excellent, making out climb less difficult that we may have expected. Around 5km farther, we leave the A355 and take the exit to Ojén onto the C-337. A short and winding descent reaches the entrance to the village. descent, and before reaching Ojén, we'll pass by the famous Fuente del Ventorrillo, offering us its fresh water to quench our thirst. The spot has a beautiful view of the whitewashed village. Following a tour of the village that includes a visit to the quaint Wine Museum and the restored old olive oil mill, we leave Ojén to face the last section of the climb up to the Ojén mountain pass. The road gets steeper: 2km at an average gradient exceeding 8%. A series of curves, the so-called caracolillos ("spiral curls"), bend the road deep into the mountain range. We'll get increasingly higher until we reach the Ojén pass. Then we take again onto the A-355 and start going downhill for a while until we get to the detour to Refugio de Juanar, a veritable oasis in the Sierra Blanca range. Western Costa del Sol Western Costa del Sol Currently the playground of the rich, Marbella has attained the top rung on Europe's social ladder. Puerto Banús is internationally famous, a marina with almost 1,000 berths and a gem of ostentatious wealth. In the 1950s, however, Marbella was a fishing village with whitewashed houses, on the old Via Augusta (ancient Roman road) at the foot of the Sierra Blanca. We'll start and end our route along the Western coastline in Marbella, whose nice old village remains miraculously intact, with its Arab layout of narrow and winding streets. CONVENTION BUREAU The Western Costa del Sol stretches from Málaga to the eastern border of the province of Cádiz. Thanks to its long sandy beaches, the Western Costa del Sol is one of the top tourist destinations all over the world. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 263 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 264 TOURIST BOARD & Now it's time to have something to eat and drink, before going back to the busy town of Marbella. We'll take the same road heading for the A-355, then turn right heading south, get to the Ojén mountain pass and continue straight towards the Mediterranean Sea up to our final destination Marbella. Continue on the A-355, leaving Ojén HIGHLIGHTS - Refugio del Juanar (mountain refuge), a quiet place very near the busy town of Marbella. - Marbella's appeal lies in the heart of the old quarter. - The mountains overlook the sea. MARBELLA'S OLD QUARTER The old village is an attractive area. Strolling along its streets can be an unforgettable experience. . . We can't leave without visiting the Church of the Encarnación (Incarnation), one of the biggest church buildings in the entire province of Málaga. Very close stands the Hospital Real, which the villagers call "hospitalillo" ("small hospital"), inaugurated by the Catholic Monarchs themselves. Western Costa del Sol A good place to start our tour of the old district is the walls of the Alcazaba or fortress, which the villagers call el castillo ("the castle"). The fortress used to enclose the original citadel of Marbella. In no time, the town went well beyond the primitive boundaries set by the Arabs to expand and form the maze of lanes of the current old district. Following the capture of the town by the Catholic Monarchs in 1485, new buildings were born which contributed to make the place even more beautiful -Plaza de los Naranjos (Orange square), where colourful restaurants vie for space under the orange trees amongst historical buildings such as the Town Hall, built by the Catholic Monarchs, the Mayor's House or the Chapel of Santiago Apóstol (James the Great), and the first fountain ever built by a Catholic Mayor of Marbella, in 1504. To the east of the old quarter is the Hospital Bazán, which today is home to the Museum of Contemporary Spanish Printing. Western Costa del Sol behind on the left of the road. We have to ride carefully, since there are a lot of lorries driving on this section of the road, especially on working days. It's advisable, then, to take this route at weekends. CONVENTION BUREAU mountain pass, at 900 m above sea level, which offers amazing views of the coastline. On sunny days, we'll be able to make out the African shore. Among the animals we can see here, especially early in the morning, there's the Spanish ibex. 264 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring Cycle touring For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 265 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 266 A PARADISE STRADDLING THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA AND THE SIERRA BLANCA TOURIST BOARD & Western Costa del Sol Western Costa del Sol CONVENTION BUREAU Cycle touring Road District border 266 . . Cycle touring . . Beginning and end of route Itinerary Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 267 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 268 TOURIST BOARD & . gUADALTEBA The whitewashed villages, the food and the handmade cold meats turn Guadalteba into a main attraction. Tourists who are looking for cultural or sporting activities will find the regional rather solitary roads excellent for cycle touring. The Ardales park, the Guadalhorce and Guadalteba reservoirs and Campillos lagoons are worth a visit. Different civilisations passed through or settled in Guadalteba over the centuries. Some times For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com TECHNICAL DATA . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring Cycle touring . Difficulty: moderate. Length: 69.2km Elevation gain: 1,010m Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h. Estimated time: 3 - 4 hours. Season: all year round, although it's too hot in the summer. Stops: Campillos lagoons, Teba Castle, Almargen. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take your camera. . 268 Guadalteba offers a continental climate, with chilly winters and very hot summers. This is why it's better to follow the route in spring or autumn. Guadalteba Guadalteba LANDSCAPE OF ENCOUNTERS The region of Guadalteba is made up of the districts of Almargen, Ardales, Campillos, Cañete la Real, Carratraca, Cuevas del Becerro, Sierra de Yeguas and Teba. It is bounded by the countryside of Seville on the north, the Guadalhorce Valley on the south, the Serranía de Ronda and Sierra de Cádiz ranges on the west, and the Antequera Meadow on the east. they coexisted peacefully, some other times, the coexistence wasn't friendly at all. The mountain villages are beautiful, especially Teba or Cañete la Real. CONVENTION BUREAU LANDSCAPE OF ENCOUNTERS The main elevations are in the southern part of the region -the Sierras of the Abdalajís Valley, Pizarra, Aguas, Baños, Alcaparaín and Ortegicar, which bisect the region. Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 269 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 270 LANDSCAPE OF ENCOUNTERS CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: ROUTE: KILOMETRES: TOURIST BOARD & Guadalteba Almargen, Ardales, Campillos, Cañete la Real, Carratraca, Cuevas del Becerro, Sierra de Yeguas, Teba CAMPILLOS - PANTANO - TEBA - ALMARGEN - CAÑETE LA REAL - TEBA - CAMPILLOS 69,2 ROUTE-METER ROUTE 4: CAMPILLOS-TEBA-ALMARGEN-CAÑETE-TEBA-CAMPILLOS ROAD DESCRIPTION 458 0.00 MA-452 CAMPILLOS. Start at the Town Hall. Take MA-452 towards reservoirs 390 13.12 MA-451 Junction. Turn right towards Campillos 391 15.30 A-357 Junction. Turn left towards Málaga and Ardales 396 17.10 C-341 Junction. Turn right towards Tebas 429 22.36 MA-465 Junction. Turn right towards Tebas 459 24.53 MA-467 TEBA. Teba mountain pass. City tour. Head for Almargen 423 27.20 MA-467 Roundabout. Stay straight on the road to Almargen 525 31.15 MA-459 Crossroads. Turn left towards Almargen 495 39.00 MA-476 ALMARGEN. Ride through town. Exit to Cañete 791 46.79 MA-476 Cañete mountain pass. Continue straight to town centre 753 48.05 Camino de Teba CAÑETE LA REAL. Bear left to Teba 434 58.65 Camino de Teba Crossroads. Turn left towards Teba and Campillos 424 59.79 MA-467 Crossroads. Turn left towards Almargen 423 59.92 MA-468 Roundabout. Make a right to Campillos 458 69.24 MA-468 CAMPILLOS. Town Hall. End of route Guadalteba . . 270 . . Cycle touring Cycle touring Guadalteba DISTANCE TRAVELLED ALTITUDE Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 271 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 272 TOURIST BOARD & . Cycle touring . Cañete la Real is situated in the foot of the Sierra del Padrastro, 742 m above sea level. A wide valley opens up below, which links the Antequera lowland with the Serranía de Ronda mountain range. Cañete affords beautiful views of the entire region. The old quarter boasts the fortress and some religious buildings, such as the Convent of San Francisco (sixteenth century), the Monastery Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions We ride along Ronda Ave. to exit the village. We cross the Algeciras-Bobadilla railway and start riding uphill to Cañete la Real, almost 6km at 5% average gradient and 9% ramps. We'll get to a lookout at 791 m above sea level and we start going downhill towards Cañete la Real. The route passes through some quarries. Cycle touring We continue uphill through centuries-old olive trees which supplied raw material to the former olive-oil mill which is currently a rural hotel and Upon leaving Teba behind, we go downhill on a path that reaches the bottom of the Almargen Valley. There we take the MA-467 towards Almargen, near the province of Cádiz. Then the time comes to tackle a slight climb followed by a flat stretch that runs along large grain fields. We should mention that the region of Guadalteba is considered as the grain reservoir of the province. Almargen is a very old village, proof of which is the white-marble phallic sculpture 22 kg in weight. The legend goes that women who touch the sculpture get pregnant. . 272 Following a steep descent, we'll be amazed by the reservoirs of the Guadalhorce, an inland sea in which we can do water sports. The route leads to Teba along the A-451 up to the regional main road: the A-357. After a while, we turn left onto the C-341 and start going uphill until we reach Teba, after leaving behind the Tajo del Molino Nature Monument, on the right hand side. This is a narrow ravine along which the Venta River runs. There's a large bat community in the area. These weird mammals live together with stock pigeons, rooks, jackdaws… This 4km climb at an average gradient of 5% leads us to the streets of Teba (9% gradient). restaurant, the Molino de las Pilas, considered as a Tourism Singular property. Its 16-m press was made by Francisco Sánchez, from the village of El Saucejo, in 1882. We'll reach the highest part of the climb in Teba, a town that is home to the La Estrella Castle, an important building under Muslim rule which was captured by Christian troops in the fifteenth century. We shouldn't miss the City Archaeology Museum, since it has a valuable collection. If we decide to come here in October, we can visit the Homemade Cheese Fair, with its typical stalls sell delicious Andalusian cheeses in the street. Guadalteba Guadalteba Our route departs from Real Street, Campillos. Then we take the regional road MA-452 southbound to the reservoirs of the Guadalhorce, which look like an inland sea in the province of Málaga. The first stretch of our tour is perfectly flat and passes through grain fields and many of the lagoons that have been declared Nature Reserves and are close to the well-known Fuente de Piedra Lagoon. There are several endangered species like the white-headed duck, marbled teal, red-knobbed coot, and purple gallinule. As the lagoons are not far from the road, we'll be able to watch these birds along with wonderful flamingos. CONVENTION BUREAU The route starts and ends at Campillos, a comparatively young town (sixteenth century), whose dwellers came mainly from Seville. Campillos's economy is based primarily on raising livestock (pigs) and leather goods manufacturing. In the village itself, we should see the Church of Nuestra Señora Santa María del Reposo, with a magnificent Baroque facade. The local popular festivities include Holy Week, considered of National Tourist Interest. 273 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 274 TOURIST BOARD & Campillos, we'll be able to see the railway on the left side. Soon we'll arrive at the end of the route, in España Square, in the heart of Campillos. From Cañete la Real we take the old road to Teba and continue downhill. Halfway down we encounter a tough and demanding climb, and then we'll take the MA-468 up to the end of the route. On the left side we'll see the path to Teba running down the hillside. On our way to HIGHLIGHTS - Valuable historical heritage, which draws visitors to the region. - The rebellion of the Moors succeeded in the Guadalteba region. GUADALTEBA'S NATURAL HERITAGE The Guadalteba region has kept a valuable natural heritage -a rich flora that consists of some Mediterranean forests (pines, holm oaks, wild olives), riverside woods, rock vegetation, brooms and bushy areas. For further information, please see the guide Málaga, Sun and Nature, available at www.visitcostadelsol.com CONVENTION BUREAU of the Santísimo Sacramento or the Parish Church of San Sebastián. Tasty foods of the area include golden thistle stew and sweet rolls. There is interesting riverside vegetation surrounding the main rivers, the Guadalteba and the Turón, consisting of poplars, ash trees, willows, and tamarisks. There is also the typical Mediterranean scrub land, featuring endemic species like such as rosemary, thyme, fan palm, rockrose, broom, or wild asparagus. The leading agricultural products are grains and legumes, which cover the land up like a green quilt in spring. Guadalteba Guadalteba The regional fauna includes a great number of animals because there are many distinct ecosystems (lagoons, meadows, rolling hills and mountains). In the Nature Area of Los Gaitanes and the Sierras of Cañete la Real and Alcaparaín birdlife is abundant, with varieties of birds of prey like the griffon vulture, Egyptian vulture and golden eagle. Among the most abundant mammals are the Spanish ibex, fox and rabbit. . . Cycle touring 274 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring The Nature Reserve of Lagunas de Campillos is inhabited by endangered species like the redknobbed coot, white-headed duck, purple gallinule, and marbled teal. Since the reserve is near the Fuente de Piedra lagoon, there are also pink flamingos here. The riverside forests teem with small songbirds like the nightingale and goldfinch, which produce a great range of notes and rhythms, especially in spring. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 275 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 276 LANDSCAPE OF ENCOUNTERS TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning and end of route Itinerary Road District border Provincial border Guadalteba Guadalteba . . Cycle touring Cycle touring . . 276 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 277 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 278 TOURIST BOARD & We'll visit two villages, Colmenar and Casabermeja, departing from Málaga City, which is also our final destination. This is a difficult route, with lonely and steep roads on which we'll be able to enjoy what nature has to offer in Montes de Málaga Nature Park. The park has come to be a major "green lung" of the province, and the roadside restaurants are excellent for us to taste the typical foods of Málaga. For further information, please visit "From Village to Village," at www.visitcostadelsol.com CONVENTION BUREAU This route passes through the Montes de Málaga Nature Park, an area where cultural and artistic symbols abound -verdiales, for instance, original music from Málaga. THROUGH THE MONTES DE MÁLAGA . mÁLAGA-COSTA DEL SOL T he route through the Montes de Málaga is among the classic cycle tours of the province of Málaga. Cycle touring enthusiasts also call it Fuente de Reina. TECHNICAL DATA . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring Cycle touring . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Length: 69.96km Elevation gain: 1,583m Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h. Estimated time: 2-3 hours. Season: all the year round. Stops: El Mirador Inn, Fuente de la Reina, Camino Real Pass, El Túnel Inn. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take your camera. . 278 Málaga-C Costa del Sol Málaga-C Costa del Sol THROUGH THE MONTES DE MÁLAGA Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 279 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 280 THROUGH THE MONTES DE MÁLAGA CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: ROUTE: KILOMETRES: TOURIST BOARD & Málaga-Costa del Sol Málaga MÁLAGA - FUENTE DE LA REINA - COLMENAR - CASABERMEJA - PTO. MARIN - MÁLAGA 69,96 ROUTE-METER ROUTE 5: MÁLAGA-FUENTE DE LA REINA-COLMENAR-CASABERMEJA-MÁLAGA . 903 17.90 C-345 Junction at Galwey Inn. Stay straight until you reach Colmenar 685 615 518 492 509 537 732 607 116 126 48 39 29.54 31.08 36.68 37.75 38.10 38.63 42.70 47.56 62.90 63.57 66.00 69.96 MA-435 A-356 MA-435 MA-435 MA-435 MA-431 MA-431 MA-431 MA-431 MA-431 MA-431 C-345 COLMENAR. On accessing the village, turn left towards Casabermeja Crossroads. Turn left towards Casabermeja Crossroads. Turn left towards Casabermeja Crossroads. Turn right and pass under highway CASABERMEJA. 100 m ahead, turn right towards Villanueva de la Concepción Crossroads. Turn left to Málaga Camino Real mountain pass. Patascortas Inn Marín mountain pass. Stay straight onto same road El Agujero Reservoir. Roundabout. Continue on left hand side to highway MÁLAGA. Ride southwards and turn left on Alameda Capuchinos End of route at Fuente Olletas roundabout 280 . . DESCRIPTION MÁLAGA. Departure from Fuente Olletas roundabout, by the petrol station. Road towards Colmenar El Mirador Restaurant. Panoramic views of Málaga León mountain pass. Ride downhill towards Comenar Cycle touring 0.00 8.40 16.05 ROAD C-345 C-345 C-345 . Cycle touring DISTANCE TRAVELLED Málaga-C Costa del Sol Málaga-C Costa del Sol ALTITUDE 39 518 930 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 281 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 282 TOURIST BOARD & Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring . From El León mountain pass we'll start going downhill up to Colmenar, in the heart of the Montes, which is why the village is known as "the capital of the Montes de Málaga." We go on a steep descent to access Colmenar via the main road, passing by the Puerta de la Cruz, which displays the village's coat of arms, which depicts a beehive and seven bees flying over it. On the highest part of the district is the chapel and the image of the Virgin of La Candelaria, whose feast is held on February 2. The views from the chapel are incredibly beautiful, including the Gómer and Santa Ana de la Sierra de Camarolos ravines, the Sierra de Tejeda and, in the distance, the Sierra Nevada mountains. Colmenar is a quiet village with an eventful history. It mixes maze-like streets and narrow lanes lined with whitewashed houses. Colmenar offers delicious foods and quality ingredients, especially olive oil and wine. Among its traditional dishes are plato de los Cycle touring Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Then there are 16km at an average gradient of 5.56%, with steeper ramps at 11% which put the bike riders' fitness to the test. In the old days the Andalusian cycling season began with the Clásica Subida a la Fuente de la Reina, an ascent that witnessed the first steps of some riders who later one became professional cyclists. . 282 As soon as we set off on our tour, we have to climb up the Montes de Málaga or Fuente de la Reina. The winding road starts as a steep climb 16km long, so we have to take it easy. The first stretch of the ascent features some steeper sections, and along 5km we'll go up at an average gradient of 6% until we get to an area in which we'll find the Venta Nueva, El boticario and El Mirador, all well-known inns. From El Mirador, the views of the city leaning on the bay of the same name are impressive. On sunny days, the African coast can be seen. The road goes uphill until we reach a series of successive tunnels, and then there is a less difficult section halfway up the hills. Here we'll arrive at El Detalle, an inn at which the hardest part of the road starts. There's one kilometre at a gradient of over 8% before reaching the top of the León mountain pass, at 930 m, and leaving behind the famous Fuente de la Reina on the left. There, if we visit the area in a rainy season, we can refill our water bottles. On the first part of the ascent, we'll encounter olive trees and almond trees, but as we get higher, the first Aleppo pines appear. These trees were during the reforestation programme aimed at fighting the terrible floods that used to cover part of the city with water. The last stretch of the climb coincides with a rich The numbers of this upward hike reveal its difficulty (16.03km at an average of 5.56% with maximum slopes of 11%). Time and again, these numbers have put the most demanding biking enthusiasts to the test. The time where the Andalusian cycling season began with the Classic Climb of the Fuente de la Reina, where the amateurs who later began pros in the cycling world used to rub elbows, is now far behind us. Málaga-C Costa del Sol Málaga-C Costa del Sol We'll start and finish our ride in the district of La Victoria or "chupa y tira", as locals call it, by the old exit to Granada, by the petrol station of Fuente Olletas, on the Camino de Colmenar. CONVENTION BUREAU We'll start from Málaga, a charming and lively town, full of gardens and buildings that recall the town's Arab past. Málaga offers us the chance to get to know its age-old history, which evolved between the mountains and the Mediterranean Sea. Evidences of its rich past are the Roman Theatre, by the Moorish fortress or Alcazaba, the Gibralfaro Castle, the majestic Cathedral and the Picasso Museum. Mediterranean woodland dominated by cork trees and holm oaks, and the pleasant scent of smaller vegetation permeates the air. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 283 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 284 TOURIST BOARD & After reaching a junction, we turn left onto the road to Casabermeja. The remains that have been unearthed near the village proof that men settled here in prehistoric times. Under the Moors, the area developed into a military station, as did many towns in the south. The Arabs built the Torre Zambra (watchtower) and called the town O'sar Bermeja, meaning "red castle." The legend goes, however, that when Isabella of Castile saw the village, she cried, "¡Qué casa bermeja!" The Mozarabic cemetery was designated Historic Artistic Monument in 1980. Another interesting structure is the red tower of the Church of Nuestra Señora del Socorro. Upon leaving Casabermeja, we must tackle an important climb to Camino Real, at 730 m above sea level. The ascent is easier than the descent, 4km at a gradient of 5% on the MA-431, or the We'll go through the tunnel and Pantano del Agujero reservoir and continue downhill to Málaga. After crossing beneath the A-45, we'll continue parallel to it and pass by Tana petrol station and finally enter the city via the exit to Ciudad Jardín. Continue to the Victoria district to the end of our route -Fuente Olletas petrol station. HIGHLIGHTS - Wine and plato de los Montes, a sample of the region's cuisine. - Verdiales are the most typical songs of the Montes. MONTES DE MÁLAGA NATURE PARK The Nature Park offers a nice example of how we can control natural forces with the means provided by nature itself. The park was created when reforestation projects in the basin of the Guadalmedina River were developed. The projects were aimed at fighting the floods that had been threatening Málaga City over the years. The park was designated Nature Park on July, 18, 1989 by the Government of Andalusia. The park is a good supplier of wood, cork, livestock, game, etc. Moreover, it's the green lung of the city of Málaga, a recreational area where Málaga-dwellers enjoy some of their leisure time. For further information, please see the guide Málaga, Sun and Nature at www.visitcostadelsol.com The park is located to the north of the capital of the province and covers most of the left side of the basin of the Guadalmedina River. The plants and animals of the region aren't as famous as its roadside restaurants, which serve the delicious local recipes, wines of the land and the typical plato de los Montes, made with potatoes, eggs, loin and chorizo. Málaga-C Costa del Sol The altitude of the rolling hills, from 100 to 1,100 m high, and the proximity of the sea provide mild temperature and high humidity levels. There are different microclimates depending on altitude and location. . Most of the park's surface area is covered of Aleppo pine woods. In the northern part there are also holm oaks, cork oaks and gall oaks, Mediterranean trees that used to dominate the area before. . Málaga-C Costa del Sol We leave Colmenar, one of the many villages captured by Spanish Christians in the fifteenth century, to go on to Casabermeja. The road continues downhill, parallel to the Guadalmedina River, which rises in this area. road of Montes de Casabermeja, which is twisting and narrow. The top, by the Patascortas Inn, is a perfect place to watch the divide between the Guadalmedina River Valley on the left and the Campanillas River on the right. Olive groves, almond trees, vineyards, carob trees and fig trees are typical of the area. After reaching the top, we head on to Marín mountain pass and start going downhill until we get to the El Túnel inn, wellknown because it used to hold the celebration of one of the main fiestas of the province of Málaga -Fiesta Mayor de Verdiales. The inn has a wide menu and serves, for instance, juicy rice with chicken and other traditional foods. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring As for animals, this is one of the few areas inhabited by chameleons. There are also polecats, weasels, wild cats, foxes, martens, and boars. Birds of prey are abundant in the park, with populations of booted eagles, short-toed eagles, buzzards, sparrow hawks, goshawks, and eagle owls. Cycle touring 284 CONVENTION BUREAU Montes, migas, garbanzo stew, kid, snails, etc., and of course, tasty cold meats. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 285 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 286 MONTES DE MÁLAGA NATURE PARK TOURIST BOARD & Málaga-C Costa del Sol Málaga-C Costa del Sol CONVENTION BUREAU . . Beginning and end of route Itinerary Cycle touring District border 286 . . Nature Park Cycle touring Road Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 287 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 288 TOURIST BOARD & . nORORMA find great mountain passes, instead, we'll find crossroads and paths going uphill and downhill. In general, the roads we'll take don't carry much traffic, and they pass through olive orchards, principally of the hojiblanca variety, which is the driving force of the local economy. The route through this region starts and ends in the charming village of Archidona. We won't For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com CONVENTION BUREAU A BEAUTIFUL REGION DOTTED WITH AGE-OLD OLIVE TREES This region is bounded on the north by the province of Córdoba (Benamejí, Encinas Reales, Rute and Iznájar), on the east by the district of Antequera, on the south with Alfarnate and Colmenar, and to the west by the province of Granada (Loja and Zafarraya). The Northeastern Málaga Region, or Nororma, enjoys a privileged location, in central Andalusia, only one hour from the capitals of the Andalusian provinces. Since time immemorial, different civilisations have established or passed through Nororma lands. The symbols of the region are olive groves and meadows. A BEAUTIFUL REGION DOTTED WITH AGE-OLD OLIVE TREES . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring Cycle touring . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Length: 66.2km Elevation gain: 1,540m Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h. Estimated time: 3-4 hours. Season: all the year round. You have to ride carefully in winter, as tractors and slow vehicles use the roads in the olive harvest period. Stops: village of Archidona, Bellavista Mountain Pass, Mateo Mountain Pass, Shrine of the Virgin of Grace, in Archidona. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take your camera. . 288 Nororma Nororma TECHNICAL DATA Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 289 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 290 A BEAUTIFUL REGION DOTTED WITH AGE-OLD OLIVE TREES Nororma Archidona, Cuevas Bajas, Cuevas de San Marcos, Villanueva de Algaidas, Villanueva del Rosario, Villanueva de Tapia, Villanueva del Trabuco ARCHIDONA - VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS - CUEVAS DE SAN MARCO - VILLANUEVA DE TAPIA - ARCHIDONA 66.2 ROUTE-METER ROUTE 6: ARCHIDONA-CUEVAS BAJAS-CUEVAS DE SAN MARCOS-V. TAPIA-ARCHIDONA . 796 9.81 MA-201 Bellavista mountain pass. Go downhill towards Villanueva de Algaidas 570 517 374 436 750 569 540 855 698 755 626 698 13.60 15.06 22.80 31.19 38.85 42.27 42.88 49.62 52.31 54.37 63.56 66.20 MA-201 MA-203 MA-202 MA-205 MA-205 MA-205 MA-210 MA-210 A-333 MA-214 MA-214 MA-214 VILLANUEVA DE ALGAIDAS. Village tour, downhill Junction. Turn left to Cuevas Bajas Junction. Turn right towards Cuevas de San Marcos CUEVAS DE SAN MARCOS. At roundabout turn right to Villanueva de Algaidas Mateo mountain pass. Continue downhill to Villanueva de Algaidas Crossroads. Stay straight Crossroads. Turn left to Villanueva de Tapia FRESNILLOS mountain pass. Head for Villanueva de Tapia Crossroads. Turn right towards Salinas and Málaga Crossroads. Turn right to Archidona Crossroads. Stay straight to Archidona ARCHIDONA. End of route at Santa Anna square 290 . . DESCRIPTION ARCHIDONA. Route starts at Santa Ana square. Head for Villanueva de Algaidas Junction. Turn left to Vill. de Algaidas Archidona Station. Village tour. Caution: Level crossing Cycle touring 0.00 2.65 7.00 ROAD MA-214 MA-201 MA-201 . Cycle touring DISTANCE TRAVELLED Nororma Nororma ALTITUDE 698 626 622 CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: ROUTE: KILOMETRES: TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 291 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 292 TOURIST BOARD & Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Cycle touring . In Cuevas de San Marcos we make a right at a roundabout and ride southwards on the MA-205, leading to Villanueva de Algaidas. From here we head for the second climb, Mateo mountain pass (750 m). We'll go 7.5km uphill, although there's a short stretch halfway which runs downhill. Now we cross the Los Puercos Brook again and tackle the last part of the ascent, with many quite hard Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . In general, the district has a rather flat terrain, broken by the Sierra de Arcas (948 m) and Sierra de Pedroso (1,024 m). The fertile land is dotted The two villages we've just mentioned are famous for their archaeological sites, one of the most significant being that of the Belda Cave, whose artifacts can be observed at the Municipal Archaeological Museum. Some of the typical foods are the sobreusa (stew made with braod beans, eggs and coriander). Here we can take a detour from our fixed route and visit the Noria de La Aceña waterwheel, in the Genil River. Cycle touring The MA-201 gets to its highest point and then starts descending towards Villanueva de Algaidas. This village was born in late eighteenth or early nineteenth century, when the Duke of Osuna authorised the construction of a Franciscan Convent on the banks of the Burriana Brook. The ruins of the convent are open to the public. Next we'll tackle a climb and get to the village of Pilar. Then we go downhill up to the Los Puercos Brook, which we'll cross before getting to the next landmark, Cuevas de San Marcos, surrounded by the Sierra del Camorro, leaning on a slope that descends to the Genil River valley. . 292 The route starts on the northern part of the city, at Santa Ana Square, very near the City Park. We'll take the MA-214 towards Villanueva de Algaidas. Our road goes downhill. Passing over the A-92 we'll get to a junction and turn left towards Archidona Station. Here we start going uphill to the Bellavista mountain pass (796 m), which affords incredible views of the whole region. with innumerable olive groves and grain fields. The district offers a wide variety of foods -porra antequerana (stew made with vegetables, bread, ham), porra crúa (another variant of porra), salmorejo (similar to porra) and ajoblanco (chilled almond and garlic soup). The extra virgin olive oil made here is as excellent as are pastries, like piñonate, huesos de santo, flores and borrachuelos. We won't stop to eat here but we'll head on downhill to Cuevas Bajas. After a while we'll find a 2km climb, then down again to Cuevas Bajas. We won't enter the village, though, but turn right at a junction towards Cuevas de San Marcos, where we exit MA-203 onto MA-202 eastbound. We should taste a beverage they make here named resoli, a mix of sweet anise, coffee grains and aromatic herbs. Nororma Nororma On the other hand, Archidona has a packed calendar of festivities, cultural events, and all kinds of celebrations: Holy Week, Feria del Perro (Dog Fair), La Candelaria, May Crosses or August Fair. CONVENTION BUREAU We start from the beautiful city of Archidona, in the foothill of the Sierra de Gracia. This is a charming and industrious city with a population of 9,000. Archidona's historic district is a must visit attraction, designated Historic Artistic Complex in 1980. On a short tour of the town we'll find the mediaeval castle and its defence walls (ninth century), the Chapel of the Virgen de Gracia (Virgin of Grace, which was formerly a mosque), the amazing Plaza Ochavada (eighteenth century) with beautiful fronts, innumerable churches and convents. Equally important are Archidona's natural assets, for instance the Archidona lagoons, designated Nature Reserve of Andalusia, and the Hoz de Marín. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 293 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 294 TOURIST BOARD & the surrounding buildings, lies on a spot surrounded by olive groves. There's a last stretch of road ahead, featuring many bends and climbs near Sierra del Pedroso. Some sections run parallel to the railway. At the last crossroads today we turn left towards Archidona. We cross the A-92 and start going uphill towards the town, right to the Santa Ana square. Those who are brave enough can go even higher, after riding 1.5km to the top, and get to the Sanctuary of the Sierra de Gracia. The climb is extremely steep (an average of 11.5% with some stretches at 18%). But it's worth the effort, for the views of Archidona down there and the mountains that surround the village are simply spectacular. On the boundary between Antequera and the Nororma region, halfway between Antequera and Archidona, is the dramatic silhouette of the Peña de los Enamorados (Lovers' Rock), an Andalusian landmark. The rock's outline is often likened to the profile of a man lying on the floor and looking up at the sky. Legend has it that a Moorish princess and a Christian shepherd boy fell in love. As they knew things wouldn't be easy, they made a secret of their love. They eloped here one night, chased by the girl's father, and instead of giving up, they jumped and fell to their death from the peak the next morning. For further information, please visit www.visitcostadelsol.com Nororma Nororma HIGHLIGHTS - Archidona is one of the most beautiful villages of the province. - The villages of the region are quiet and peaceful. - The route passes through olive groves and pine woods. PEÑA DE LOS ENAMORADOS CONVENTION BUREAU kilometres, with some sections at a gradient of 11%. After climbing through a series of four upward curves we'll find us in the middle of a sea of hojiblanca olive trees. Once on top of Mateo pass, the road runs downhill to Villanueva de Algaidas. We won't enter the village. Instead, we turn left onto the MA-215 towards Villanueva de Tapia. The narrow road carries almost no traffic and leads to the third high spot of the day, the Fresnillos (855 m). This climb runs parallel to the Parrilla Stream all the way up. The stream rises virtually at the mountain pass. The climb is 6km long at a gradient over 5%. From the summit the road goes down to Villanueva de Tapia, a village we'll travel around on the A-333 until we get to a crossroads, at which we turn right onto the MA214 towards our final destination -Archidona. Villanueva de Tapia is also called El Entredicho (meaning "the dispute"), since after the capture of the village by Spanish Christians, the lands that currently make up this district were disputed by nearby Iznájar (province of Córdoba) and Archidona. Villanueva de Tapia, where the tower of the seventeenth-century Parish Church of San Pedro Apóstol (St Peter the Apostle) rises over Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring Cycle touring . . 294 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 295 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 296 A BEAUTIFUL REGION DOTTED WITH AGE-OLD OLIVE TREES TOURIST BOARD & . . Road Cycle touring District border Provincial border 296 . . Cycle touring Nororma Nororma CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning and end of route Itinerary Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 297 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 298 TOURIST BOARD & . sERRANÍA DE RONDA This route, with a length of 78.8km and an elevation gain of 1,863 m, is one of the toughest in this tourist guide, but the effort will be well worth it as this is a region of extraordinary beauty. For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com CONVENTION BUREAU AMONGST VALLEYS, HILLS AND BANDITS Its rugged terrain makes it ideal for bike trekking, with difficult roads through magnificent areas. We've deemed appropriate to explore two of the most sublime areas of the province of Málaga: the Guadiaro River Valley and the Genal River Valley. As the old bandits did we set out to discover the most iconic spots of the region, starting and ending our route in the romantic "city of the Tajo": Ronda. The Serranía de Ronda region is a land of high hills and deep valleys in which history has forged epic stories of legendary bandits. The area offers unparalleled beauty to nature lovers. Only a very small number of regions can boast of having three nature parks: Sierra de las Nieves, Sierra de Grazalema, and Los Alcornonales. TECHNICAL DATA . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring Cycle touring . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Length: 78.8km Elevation gain: 1,863m Recommended average speed: de 20 a 25km/h. Estimated time: 4 - 5 hours. Season: In spring, you'll be able to enjoy nature in full bloom; in winter, there could be restrictions due to the snow. Stops: Ronda, Del Gato Cave, De la Pileta Cave, Guadiaro River, De Encinas Borrachas Pass, any village of the Genal Valley. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take a camera. . 298 Serranía de Ronda Serranía de Ronda AMONGST VALLEYS, HILLS AND BANDITS Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 299 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 300 AMONGST VALLEYS, HILLS AND BANDITS ROUTE: KILOMETRES: Serranía de Ronda Algatocín, Alpandeire, Arriate, Atajate, Benadalid, Benalauría, Benaoján, Benarrabá, Cartajima, Cortes de la Frontera, Cuevas del Becerro, Faraján, Gaucín, Genalguacil, Igualeja, Jimera de Libar, Jubrique, Júzcar, Montejaque, Parauta, Pujerra, Ronda RONDA - BENAOJÁN - PUERTO DE LA PILETA - JIMERA DE LIBAR - ENCINAS BORRACHAS - ALPANDEIRE - FARAJÁN - JUZCAR - CARTAJIMA - RONDA 78.8 CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: TOURIST BOARD & . Cycle touring 0.00 4.55 14.60 15.43 19.86 25.06 27.00 32.05 32.47 39.42 41.39 49.60 53.10 56.85 61.80 66.70 67.39 75.55 78.81 ROAD A-376 MA-555 MA-555 MA-501 MA-501 MA-508 MA-508 A-369 A-369 A-369 MA-515 MA-516 MA-517 MA-518 MA-525 MA-519 A-376 A-376 A-376 DESCRIPTION RONDA. Starting point next to the sports hall towards Seville Crossroads. Left turn towards Benajoán BENAOJÁN. Through the village towards Montejaque Crossroads. Left turn towards Cortes de la Frontera La Pileta Pass. De la Pileta Cave, 200 m through a path Crossroads. Left turn towards Jimera de Líbar and Atajate JIMERA de Líbar. Straight on without detours Crossroads. Left turn towards Ronda ATAJATE. Through the village towards Ronda Encinas Borrachas mountain pass. Straight on to Ronda Crossroads. Right turn towards Alpandeire, Faraján and Júzcar ALPANDEIRE. Through the village towards Faraján FARAJÁN. Skirt the village towards Júzcar JÚZCAR. Through the village towards Cartajima and Ronda Crossroads. Straight on leaving Cartajima to the right Crossroads. Continue to the left towards Ronda Navacilla Pass. Crossroads. Left turn towards Ronda Roundabout. Continue to the right through the ring road of Ronda RONDA. End of route, next to the sports hall Cycle touring . . DISTANCE TRAVELLED . 300 ALTITUDE 720 613 522 537 683 397 500 749 737 1006 999 711 644 631 839 977 996 735 720 Serranía de Ronda Serranía de Ronda ROUTE-METER ROUTE 7: RONDA - BENAOJÁN - ENCINAS BORRACHAS - ALPANDEIRE - CARTAJIMA - RONDA Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 301 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 302 TOURIST BOARD & Its botanical richness is overwhelming. In the plains and the northern valleys, the dominant species is the holm oak, while the fertile valleys of the south are wooded with chestnuts, cork oaks, holm oaks, gall oaks and pines, alternating with olive groves on the slopes and fruit groves on the banks of the Genal and Guadiaro rivers. The central area, on the other hand, around the Sierra de las Nieves range, is filled with Spanish firs and gall oaks. . Cycle touring During the first -and last- stretch of the route (A376), we'll have to be extremely careful, as there's a lot of traffic. The rest of the journey is done on After crossing the Guadiaro River once again, we'll come across the main attraction of the day: the De Encinas Borrachas Pass (1,006 m), a Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . After a brief tour of the town centre, we'll start (and end) our route at the City Sports Centre, located in the outskirts of town, from where we'll take the A-376 towards Seville. Cycle touring . The pass almost coincides with a detour that will lead us to the entrance of the De la Pileta Cave, declared National Monument of Cave Art due to the quantity, quality and age of its paintings. Not surprisingly, experts believe that it may have been in these limestone hills -in which there are plenty of caves- that the first dwellers of the province of Málaga lived. After crowning the pass, the road literally falls over the cliff towards the Guadiaro River Valley, which at this altitude is buttressed by huge crags of bare rock contrasting with the green forests of holm and cork oaks that cover the first half of the hill slopes. At the Jimera Station, the Guadiaro River opens up before the huge Sierra de Libar range and continues down the valley. This is an idyllic place for the tourists on two wheels -its beautiful landscapes adorned with narrow winding roads with very little traffic will delight even the most demanding nature lover. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions take us to the top. Before getting there, we'll go through Atajate, which is considered the smallest village in Málaga, where the typical Mediterranean crops -grains, grapes, and olivescoexist with holm and cork oaks, and bushes scattered around the nearby limestone terrain. After leaving Atajate, the two most demanding kilometres of the route lie before us, at an average gradient of 7.5%. Several viewing points along the road, richly adorned with tiled . 302 We'll start our journey in the beautiful city of Ronda, where we'll be able to enjoy one of the most complete set of monuments of Andalusia. The city hangs on the impressive cliff as if it were a balcony over the rise of the Guadalevín River. Its bullring, the oldest in Spain, has been the school of many great matadors. We can enjoy a mix of artistic styles represented in the most beautiful monuments: Roman baths, Moorish palaces, churches, viewing points, etc. punishing giant of 14.21km at a gradient of 4.32%. We can clearly distinguish two stretches in this ascent. The first one starts just after crossing the river and taking the MA-508 towards Jimera de Libar. With several horseshoe bends, we quickly gain altitude on a narrow road beautifully adorned with a Mediterranean forest. After 7km uphill, we get onto the A-369, the so called "Ruta Paisajística" or Scenic Road, to start the second stretch of this ascent -7.5km that will Serranía de Ronda Serranía de Ronda Given its extraordinary natural richness, this region is ideal for outdoor activities such as cycle touring, trekking, climbing, cave exploration and bird watching. roads with very little traffic so we'll be able to enjoy the magnificent mountain landscape. We start the route downhill until we get to the Km 5, where there's a crossroads in which we'll turn left and take the MA-555 towards the Guadiario River Valley. Soon we'll get to the famous Del Gato Cave, a big challenge for cave explorers. After crossing the river at Benajoán Station, the first difficult stretch starts: the pass of the De la Pileta Cave, 694 m high. It's almost 3km in length, at an average gradient of 5.5% and specific ramps at 11% , so this will give an idea of how tough it is! At half way, we'll go through the village of Benaoján, which sits on the white limestone crests of Juan Diego Hill. The village -of clear Moorish style- is a typical example of a highland village with an economy driven by cold meats production. CONVENTION BUREAU The Serranía de Ronda region borders with the Field of Gibraltar, the Western Costa del Sol, the Hoya de Málaga dale, the Depression of Antequera and the Sierras de Ubrique range. The city of Ronda is the administrative and service centre of the region, so it's highly influential in all its districts. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 303 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:13 PÆgina 304 TOURIST BOARD & . HIGHLIGHTS - The Genal Valley -a green oasis in the Serranía de Ronda. - Steep, narrow winding roads await us. - La Pileta Cave is a symbol of the ancient past of the region. Every autumn, in the paradisiacal Genal Valley, an astonishing spectacle awaits anybody who chooses to explore its most secluded corners. A rich palette of colours invade the valley, where the golden deciduous leaves of the chestnuts contrast with the perennial green of the cork oaks, fruit trees and pines. The villagers hurry to collect the chestnuts of their fields -more than 3,500 hectares of chestnut groves, representing their main source of income. The whole valley is typically rural as the population of its villages never reaches one thousand people. Parauta, a village located on the border of the Sierra de las Nieves range and the Genal Valley, has one of the tallest holm oaks in the province, known by the locals as La Valdecilla. The so called Nacimiento del Genal is in Igualeja, a cavern from which part of the water that feeds the Genal River rises. A nearby village, Pujerra, has wonderful surroundings dotted with chestnut trees. On the other side of the valley, at the foot of the Sierra del Oreganal, the dazzling whitewashed villages of Júzcar, Faraján and Cartahjima stand out, in a place known as Los Riscos, where erosion on the limestone has created a landscape similar to the one found at El Torcal, in Antequera. In the same valley, though further away from the road, there are beautiful villages like Benalauría, Benaladid, and Algatocín, in which Moors and Christians celebrations bring their Moorish past to life. . After a short but steep ascent, the road goes down again through chestnut forests towards Faraján. This village, whose name means "enjoyable place" in Arabic, is a delightful little town. The friendly villagers -just over 300- we'll greet us with open arms, as it is customary among the dwellers of the Genal Valley. Another difficult 2km stretch with steep slopes will take us From Júzcar onwards, the road starts getting steep again until we get to the Navacilla Pass, 997m high. The 11km will make us face a steep climb once again. This time, the landscape will open up before us with the limestone terrain of the Oreganal on the left and the breathtaking beauty of the Genal Valley to our right. As we slowly ascend, we'll see the villages of Cartajima, Parauta, Igualeja, and Pujerra on our right until we get to the pass and the A-376. From here on, we need to be very careful as almost all the road ahead towards Ronda -20km to the end of our route- runs downhill. THE GENAL VALLEY AND THE CHESTNUTS Serranía de Ronda Serranía de Ronda The first of these oases is Alpandeire -birthplace of its illustrious son Friar Leopoldo- to which we get through a spectacular descent on a narrow road that seems to be literally hanging from the slopes of the Sierra de Jarastepar. Its white parapets will lead us to the entrance of this beautiful village in which the San Antonio de Padua Parish Church (St. Anthony of Padua) is worth a visit. This church has been nicknamed "the cathedral of Genal Valley". out of town and into the next landmark of our journey: Júzcar. Even before we get there, we'll start to enjoy the beautiful scenery of this pristine place surrounded by lush vegetation all year round. The houses look crammed together due to the ruggedness of the terrain. The Royal Tin Factory of San Miguel -which is believed to be the first tin factory in Spain- started operating in 1730 in this district, by the Genal River. Today, unfortunately, only its ruins remain. CONVENTION BUREAU information panels, will allow us to stop and admire the astonishingly beautiful landscapes of our journey. We'll soon get to the top of the De Encinas Borrachas Pass, and after that, we turn right on the MA-515, southwards, in order to get to one of the most rococo landscapes of the province of Málaga: the Genal Valley. A profusion of little white oases hanging from the hills, surrounded by enormous forests of chestnuts, cork oaks, gall oaks, pines, olive trees and all kinds of fruit trees will be our travelling companions during this part of the journey. 304 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring Cycle touring For further information, please visit www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 305 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 306 AMONGST VALLEYS, HILLS AND BANDITS TOURIST BOARD & Road CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning and end of route Itinerary District border Provincial border Serranía de Ronda Serranía de Ronda Nature Park . . Cycle touring Cycle touring . . 306 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 307 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 308 TOURIST BOARD & . sIERRA DE LAS NIEVES For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com The Sierra de las Nieves region is located in the northwest of the province of Málaga and comprises the districts of Alozaina, Casarabonela, El Burgo, Guaro, Istán, Monda, Ojén, Tolox, and Yunquera. Its landscape is both varied and unique, showing stark contrasts of rugged mountains and fertile valleys with deep ravines and spectacular cliffs. Here, the limestone soil has given rise to deep crevices such as the Sima Gesm, the third deepest abyss in the world (1,100 m). The highest point is De la Torrecilla Peak (1,919 m), of the Sierra Blanca range, Tolox. Sierra de las Nieves Sierra de las Nieves AMONGST OLIVE TREES, ALMOND TREES AND SPANISH FIRS Cattle-raising is the main economical activity of the region's villages. From its forests, cork, chestnuts, and honey are harvested. There's also an important craft industry, like the making of leather goods and forged grilles. TECHNICAL DATA Cycle touring Cycle touring . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Length: 92.9km Elevation gain: 1,987m Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h Estimated time: 4-5 hours. Season: any time of year, though it's advisable to avoid very hot days and heavy rains. Stops: Mari Gloria Museum House (Monda), village of Alozaina, Jorox Pass, Los Martínez Pass. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take a camera. . . . 308 CONVENTION BUREAU AMONGST OLIVE TREES, ALMOND TREES AND SPANISH FIRS The region is one of the few environments in which humans live as one with nature. Its rugged landscapes and winding roads will put our stamina to the test. Anyone coming to this region will enjoy its beautiful popular architecture, its marvellous and varied cuisine, the quality of its homemade products, but above all, the hospitality of its people. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 309 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 310 AMONGST OLIVE TREES, ALMOND TREES AND SPANISH FIRS CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: ROUTE: KILOMETRES: TOURIST BOARD & Sierra de las Nieves Alozaina, Casarabonela, El Burgo, Guaro, Istán, Monda, Ojén, Tolox, Yunquera MONDA - GUARO - ALOZAINA - YUNQUERA - EL BURGO - CASARABONELA - ALOZAINA - GUARO - MONDA 85 ROUTE-METER ROUTE 8: MONDA-GUARO-ALOZ-EL BURGO-CASARAB-ALOZ-MONDA . 384 21.55 A-366 ALOZAINA. At roundabout, left turn towards Yunquera 545 679 821 560 465 737 454 368 384 215 392 370 25.74 29.30 32.20 38.78 47.44 54.63 59.85 62.64 71.36 84.05 88.41 92.93 A-366 A-366 A-366 MA-445 MA-445 MA-445 MA-404 MA-403 A-366 MA-419 MA-419 MA-419 Jorox. Straight on, with no detours. Panoramic views. YUNQUERA. Through the village. Straight on to El Burgo and Ronda De las Abejas Pass. Continue downhill towards El Burgo EL BURGO. Right turn towards Ardales Crossroads. Right turn towards Casarabonela. De los Martínez Pass. Descent towards Casarabonela CASARABONELA. Through the village, downhill through horseshoe bends Crossroads. Right turn towards Alozaina ALOZAINA. At roundabout, straight on towards Coín and Málaga Crossroads. Right turn towards Guaro and Monda GUARO. Through the village, straight on to Monda MONDA. End of route next to the Town Hall 310 . . DESCRIPTION MONDA. Starting point next to the Town Hall towards Guaro GUARO. Through the village towards Alozaina and Coín Crossroads. Left turn towards Alozaina Cycle touring 0.00 3.60 8.87 ROAD MA-419 MA-419 A-366 . Cycle touring DISTANCE TRAVELLED Sierra de las Nieves Sierra de las Nieves ALTITUDE 370 392 215 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 311 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 312 TOURIST BOARD & Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Cycle touring . . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Leaving the stories of rebellions and heroes for some other time, we'll set out to go deep into the Sierra de las Nieves range towards Yunquera, not riding on beasts like the old muleteers but sitting on our modern saddles on two wheels. From Alozaina, the road goes uphill until we crown the Jorox Pass, a beautiful area populated since prehistoric times, where a copious spring of water gives rise to the namesake river. In this area, the landscape changes completely to Aleppo pines and the typical Mediterranean bushes as main characters, and needle furze and other aromatic plants as guest stars. Immediately afterwards, we will find ourselves in Yunquera, which has always been a natural pass between the Guadalhorce Cycle touring We'll leave the fairy tale world and start our journey to Guaro on the A-6207, a narrow but enchanting road through a typically Mediterranean landscape in which the olive and almond groves will be our constant travel companions. We'll have to go up a few steep ramps before we get to the place known as "Paradise of the Almond," after a short descent. The village sits on a hill slope, with its white houses around the Parish Church of San Miguel (St. Michael), from the sixteenth century. The fine cuisine of Guaro is worth mentioning, particularly the dishes made with almonds, which are their specialty. If we have the chance, we mustn't miss the Luna We now continue downhill looking for the valley of the Río Grande river, the main tributary of the most important river of Málaga: the Guadalhorce. The new road winds along the Río Grande river until it gets to the crossroads in Tolox. In this stretch, there are plenty of fruit groves, mainly citrus. We must turn right towards the next landmark of our journey -the charming village of Alozaina, declared in 1977 the prettiest town in Spain. From the crossroads onwards, we go uphill up to the entrance of this beautiful village, which coincides with the beginning of the Las Abejas Pass. Alozaina is a typical highland village, with narrow streets and whitewashed houses filled with flowers, in which the Church of Santa Ana (St. Anne), from the seventeenth century, is the most salient building. They say that there was a heroic woman named María Sagredo who defended the village throwing beehives to the Moors during the Moorish uprising in 1570. . 312 Just as we're leaving Monda, we'll see to the left of the road the famous fountain of the village. According to legend, "the daughters of a Moorish king who lived in the castle of Mundat up the hill would come down to the fountain through a secret passageway and there they'd have not-so-secret meetings with Christian gentlemen". Mora (Moorish Moon) Festival, usually held in September, where the people go back almost a thousand years and celebrate with music and traditions of Andalusia represented by three cultures -Christian, Islamic and Sephardic- under the light of 20,000 candles. Sierra de las Nieves Sierra de las Nieves We start our route from the main square, next to the Parish Church of Santiago Apóstol (St. James the Great), a building from the sixteenth century. The Mari Gloria House Museum is very close by, and it's worth a visit. It's a private house that has been turned into an ethnographic museum of the rural world, where the most distinguished traditions and customs of the area are represented. Its owner, with the friendliness, simplicity, and warmth of the people of Monda, will very kindly show us around her house museum. CONVENTION BUREAU This exciting bike trekking adventure starts from the beautiful village of Monda -declared Picturesque Place in 1971-, which sits halfway up a hill crowned with a renovated Arab castle, at present home to a rural hotel. The village has typical cobblestone sloping streets and the houses have raised doors to keep the water out during heavy rain seasons. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 313 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 314 TOURIST BOARD & The village of Yunquera is worth a visit. It has the typical layout of steep winding streets from which one can admire the extraordinary spectacle of the nearby Sierra de las Nieves range, in which the Spanish ibex reigns supreme sharing the land with one of the jewels of the Sierra de las Nieves Biosphere Reserve -the Spanish fir (Abies pinsapo Boiss.). From El Burgo, we take the MA-445 towards Ardales and Campillos, which runs through mountain olive groves and, for a while, by the Turón River, where we'll face short but steep ramps until we get to a crossroads. There, we turn right towards Casarabonela through the Los Martínez Pass. From here on, we'll be watched attentively by the shadow of the north slope of the Once in Alozaina, now in the opposite direction, we'll go down until we get to the crossroads in Tolox. Then we continue uphill towards Guaro, and end our route in Monda, at the Plaza de la Constitución, next to the Church of Santiago Apóstol (St. James the Great). HIGHLIGHTS - The Abies pinsapo, true protagonist of Sierra de las Nieves. - The Sierra de las Nieves region: a rich palette of ecosystems. SIERRA DE LAS NIEVES NATURE PARK The Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park was For further information, please visit www.visitcostadelsol.com declared Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO in 1995. It covers a surface area of 20,163 ha, and stretches over the districts of Istán, Monda, Parauta, Ronda, Tolox, and Yunquera. Its highest point is the La Torrecilla Peak, 1,919 m high. Inside the park there are no paved roads, only forest tracks coming from the roads that link the villages of the region or from the villages themselves. Its location within the borders of the Atlantic and the Mediterranean domains favours the existence of a flora that is both varied and unique, thanks to the rains provided by the Atlantic winds, filled with moist air. In the high mountain region, with frequent rains, gall oaks and Spanish firs abound. The Spanish fir, a unique kind of fir -almost a relic from the great conifer forests of glacial periods and nearly extinctis protected by law and is only present in the high hills of the Sub-Baetic Mountains of Spain and in the Rif Mountains of northern Morocco. At lower altitudes, there are holm oaks and cork oaks, especially in Istán and Monda, and also small woods of carob trees and chestnut trees. Its fauna includes several protected animal species such as the Spanish ibex, the wild cat, the golden eagle, the eagle owl, and the otter. Sierra de las Nieves . Cycle touring Cycle touring In Tolox, the Centre for the Recovery of Protected Species of Pecho Venus takes care of injured animals found by individuals, forest agents, environmentalists, or hunters. Once brought back to health, animals are released back into their natural environment. . Sierra de las Nieves A quick descent will leave us at the beautiful village of El Burgo, in the heart of the Sierra de las Nieves range -a delightful place surrounded by mountains in which the streams pour their crystal clear waters into the Turón River, the pride of the locals. The village sits on a hill, 591 m above sea level, an extraordinary viewing point from which we can contemplate that huge open air natural museum -the Sierra de las Nieves. Sierra Prieta on our right, and the Sierra de Alcaparaín on our left. Once we get to the pass, the road goes steeply down towards Casarabonela, nicknamed "the spring of the hills" due to the numerous water springs that irrigate the fertile Moorish-like terraced farms covering the slopes of the Sierra Prieta (1,521 m). The narrow steep streets of the village are the evidence of its Moorish heritage. The Fiesta de los Rondeles is worth mentioning. It's held in December, after the olive harvest, and it's a good show of popular customs and traditions. After briefly going through the village, the route continues downhill through horseshoe bends until we get to a crossroads in which we'll turn right towards Alozaina. On this stretch, the road becomes a huge natural balcony over the Río Grande river. . The Information Bureau of the Nature Park is at the Palace of Mondragón, Ronda (Tel.: (+34) 952 877 778). Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . 314 CONVENTION BUREAU Valley and the Serranía de Ronda region by means of the Las Abejas Pass, which we'll reach a little further up from the village. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 315 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 316 AMONGST OLIVE TREES, ALMOND TREES AND SPANISH FIRS TOURIST BOARD & Sierra de las Nieves Sierra de las Nieves CONVENTION BUREAU . . Road Cycle touring District border Nature Park 316 . . Cycle touring Beginning and end of route Itinerary Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 317 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 318 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU THE BIG RIVER OF MÁLAGA . gUADALHORCE VALLEY TECHNICAL DATA . Cycle touring . The Valley is one of the most dynamic areas of the province. Its main economic activities are For further information, please visit "From Village to Village" at www.visitcostadelsol.com Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions associated with the land (farming), industry and electrical power generation. It has beautiful villages, such as Alhaurín de la Torre, Alhaurín el Grande, Almogía, Álora, Cártama, Coín, Pizarra and Valle de Abdalajís. Bicycling at the Guadalhorce Valley is a great way to experience the quiet beauty of an attractive region of the province of Málaga. The lonely roads and the rugged terrain make this route nice and enjoyable. Cycle touring 318 It's located near Málaga City, the coast, Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park, Los Gaitanes gorge and the group of reservoirs of El Chorro. The Guadalhorce Valley is dominated by water, proof of which are the waterwheels, irrigation ditches, and springs. The valley is covered in green trees and vegetables that climb up the terraces on the surrounding hills, and evergreen citrus trees offer their aroma to the visitors. . Difficulty: moderate to strenuous. Lenght: 57.30km Elevation gain: 1,367m Recommended average speed: 20 to 25km/h Estimated time: 2-3 hours. Season: fall year round. Stops: village of Álora, Carratraca, church of Bobastro, La Encantada viewpoint, Los Gaitanes ravine. Chainrings: 38 x 25 or triple. Tips: take a camera. Guadalhorce Valley Guadalhorce Valley THE BIG RIVER OF MÁLAGA The Guadalhorce River, the principal river of the province of Málaga, supplied by water in the nearby Antequera region and coursing the mountain range through the spectacular Desfiladero de los Gaitanes gorge, gives its name to this region: The Guadalhorce Valley. 319 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 320 THE BIG RIVER OF MÁLAGA CONVENTION BUREAU REGION: DISTRICTS: ROUTE: KILOMETRES: TOURIST BOARD & Guadalhorce Valley Alhaurín de la Torre, Alhaurín el Grande, Almogía, Álora, Cártama, Coín, Pizarra, Valle de Abdalajís ALORA - PUERTO DE LA SABANILLA - CARRATRACA - ARDALES - EL CHORRO - ALORA 57.3 . DISTANCE TRAVELLED ROAD DESCRIPTION 212 0.00 MA-441 ÁLORA. Start at crossroads. Road from El Chorro to Carratraca 265 4.70 MA-441 Crossroads. Turn right at Del Conejo Inn towards Carratraca 613 12.10 MA-441 Sabanilla pass. Continue downhill to Carratraca 492 16.60 MA-442 CARRATRACA. Village tour. Stay straight towards Ardales. Fountain 508 18.64 A-357 Crossroads. Turn right to Ardales 540 19.28 A-357 Málaga pass. Steep descent towards Ardales 359 22.53 MA-444 Crossroads. Turn right towards Embalses 395 28.20 MA-444 Las Atalayas pass. Turn right, downhill to El Chorro 276 30.77 MA-448 Crossroads. Turn right to climb up to Bobastro ruins 605 35.90 MA-448 Bobastro Highlands. Magnificent views of El Chorro and the Guadalhorce Valley 276 41.30 MA-444 Crossroads. Turn right towards El Chorro 225 42.65 MA-444 DESFILADERO DE LOS GAITANES. Views of the gorge 201 44.30 CHSE Crossroads. La Encantada reservoir. Stay straight onto road towards Álora 191 49.80 CHSE Barrio Bermejo. Continue straight 212 57.30 CHSE ÁLORA. End of route at crossroads with old Carratraca road . . Cycle touring 320 . Cycle touring ALTITUDE Guadalhorce Valley Guadalhorce Valley ROUTE-METER ROUTE 9: ALORA - CARRATRACA - ARDALES - EL CHORRO - ALORA Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 321 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 322 TOURIST BOARD & . Cycle touring . The road runs parallel to the river, on our left, and features some climbs that might sap our energy. HIGHLIGHTS - Water and fertile lands are landmarks of the Guadalhorce Valley. - The Desfiladero de Los Gaitanes gorge will surprise us with its sheer cliffs. - The climb to Bobastro is the toughest ascent in the route. At the crossroads we turn right onto the natural exit from Los Gaitanes gorge by Estación del Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions From this point, the Guadalhorce Valley reaches its peak to offer fruit trees that replace the piny woods and the Mediterranean bushes. Cycle touring We'll cycle along the MA-441 to Carratraca. Following a short climb, we reach a flatter area and go up to El Conejo Inn. Then we turn right and start climbing the Sierra de Aguas (949 m) through La Sabanilla pass, at 613 m above sea level. It's a 7km ascent on a winding road on the slopes of the Sierra de Aguas. On top is a wind farm with many wind turbines. The area is covered in pines planted during a reforestation plan years ago. After a short and steep descent, we'll get to Carratraca. A short village tour through the old quarter allows visitors see peculiar buildings like the polygonal Bullring (1878), carved out of the rock of the Sierra Blanquilla, the House of Doña Trinidad Grund, After leaving Carratraca, at the crossroads we turn right onto the A-357 and get to the top of the Málaga mountain pass, at 540 m above sea level. This is the most dangerous section of our route, mainly because there's constant traffic. A steep descent takes us to the village of Ardales, on our left. We take the exit onto the MA-444 towards the reservoirs only to see that the landscape changes dramatically. First there are olive groves up to the junction at the Atalayas pass. At this point we have to turn right to get to a piny forest in which Aleppo pines grow against the high walls of the Sierra de Huma. After cycling downhill for several kilometres we make a slight left turn onto the MA-448. Now the most demanding climb of the day lies ahead: the Bobastro highlands (605m) that leads to the Mesa de Villaverde. It's a 4km climb with a maximum gradient of 14%, so we need to sharpen our senses and try our best. Around 2km ahead we can visit the ruins of a tenth-century Mozarabic church in which, the story goes, Umar ibn Hafsun converted to Christianity. The climb might be hard but it's well worth the effort because the summit commands magnificent views. After these 4 terrible kilometres, the last stretch of the road gets easier while passing by a small reservoir, La Encantada, located on a high plain called Mesa de Villaverde. Now we begin the final part of the climb and get to a tiny scenic lookout affording impressive views of the huge rock of the Sierra de Huma and El Chorro gorge. We'll backtrack the way we came to take the MA-444. We'll arrive at the end of our route after cycling uphill for a while, in Álora, at the crossroads with the old road towards Carratraca. . 322 Holy Week is an outstanding feature of Álora's life. On Maundy Thursday "la Despedida" or "Farewell" celebration takes place, which has been declared of National Tourism Interest. It consists in the encounter and "greeting" of two images, the Virgin's and that of Jesus, carried on the shoulders of the participants. As to Álora's cuisine, we can mention the so called perotas soups, made with vegetables and bread, and other plates made with fresh vegetables and fruit grown in the region. Chorro. On our left is the Chapel of Nuestra Señora de Villaverde, sitting proudly in the mountainous landscape. The valley opens up before our eyes and soon we get to the wonderful rise of the Guadalhorce River, dammed for the last time at Tajo de la Encantada reservoir. Guadalhorce Valley Guadalhorce Valley Álora is the typical Andalusian village, perched on the mountainside, with white houses and crowned by the Las Torres Castle, the outstanding landmark of the city. Worth a visit is the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación (Our Lady of the Incarnation), built in the seventeenth century over an original mosque and the third biggest of the province. Álora is normally called "el Valle del Sol" or "the Sunny Valley". used later as the local Town Hall and the Parish Church of Nuestra Señora de la Salud (Our Lady of Good Health), from the nineteenth century. The sulphurous water springs were famous even back in Roman times, and people came here seeking their healing properties. CONVENTION BUREAU We'll start in Álora and pass through the northern part of the Guadalhorce Valley region and go along an area of the Guadalteba region as well. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 323 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 324 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU DESFILADERO DE LOS GAITANES NATURE AREA Desfiladero de los Gaitanes Nature Area was inaugurated by King Alfonso XIII in 1921. Los Gaitanes is a natural gorge through which the Guadalhorce River runs between tall limestone walls. The nature area is a top tourist attraction, and especially for rock climbing lovers, since the cliffs reach 400 m in height. Also those who enjoy birdwatching will want to come once and again, for they will be able to see birds of prey like the griffon vulture, peregrine falcon, or golden eagle hovering around. And on the ground, we can watch Spanish ibexes taking their peculiar jumps. Guadalhorce Valley Guadalhorce Valley For further information, please visit www.visitcostadelsol.com Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents . . Cycle touring Cycle touring . . 324 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 325 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 326 THE BIG RIVER OF MÁLAGA TOURIST BOARD & Itinerary Road CONVENTION BUREAU Beginning and end of route Guadalhorce Valley Guadalhorce Valley District border . . Cycle touring Cycle touring . . 326 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Cycle touring www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 327 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 328 contents TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU ACTIVE TRAVEL COMPANIES . Born To Be Wild, S.L. Marbella (San Pedro Alcántara) page 330 . Exploramás - Events and Adventure. Mijas Costa page 332 . Creativando S.L. Torremolinos . Travelmasters. Torremolinos Contents page 334 page 336 329 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 330 TOURIST BOARD & CORPORATE EVENTS Team Building: One of the specialties at Born to Be Wild is corporate events, which include activities and exercises to promote and improve working teams' performance. Amongst these activities are jeep rallies, scooter or mountain bike rides or walking while running tests, solving problems or answering questions in a fun and friendly atmosphere. Barbecues, parties, theme parties, rural tourism in Andalusia and Morocco. Born to Be Wild has the Blue Dolphin Beach Club in the Bay of Estepona. From the club, guests can enjoy spectacular views of the Gibraltar Strait and the African coastline, eat international dishes in a quiet, out-of-the-way location. CONVENTION BUREAU The company is based in San Pedro Alcántara and has a staff with employees who speak English, French, German, Dutch and, of course, Spanish and will come with customers individuals, families, groups, company employees- and travel across Andalusia or Morocco by off-road vehicles. Moreover, Born to Be Wild offers motorboat or canoe trips, animal and plant watching, team building programmes or parties. The activities are held in outstandingly beautiful places or in the Born to Be Wild facilities in Estepona. . sAN PEDRO ALCÁNTARA Established a decade ago, Born to Be Wild is a company specialising in active and adventure travel, ecotourism and team-building activities for people of all ages and any fitness level. San Pedro Alcántara Dolphin Eco Tours: Motorboat trips in the Mediterranean Sea to watch dolphins in their natural habitat. . . San Pedro Alcántara BORN TO BE WILD ECO-TOURS Jeep Eco Tours: Born to Be Wild staff will explain historical facts or natural features while driving across Sierra de las Nieves Nature Park. Then the group will visit some of the delightful whitewashed villages of the area, in which they will savour delicious foods or swim in one of the refreshing reservoirs. Active Travel Companies . C/ Igualada, 3 29670 San Pedro Alcántara - Marbella (Málaga) Tel.: (+34) 952 781 006 - 606 454 431 Fax: (+34) 952 781 006 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.borntobewild.es Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions . 330 Active Travel Companies BORN TO BE WILD Active travel www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 331 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 332 TOURIST BOARD & CONVENTION BUREAU EXPERIENCE After many years in the world of mountaineering and adventure activities, the owners of Exploramás created the company in July 2000. Since then, Exploramás has become a leading planner of corporate events and adventure activities in Andalusia and even in Spain. Some of Exploramás's many clients are Ford, Bayer, IBM, Citibank Ernst & Young, Philips, BMW, Bausch & Lomb, and BP. Over ten thousand people have used the company's services, enjoying the beautiful Andalusian scenery while learning how to protect the environment and work or have fun in teams. . mIJAS COSTA Off-road Driving Jeep Emotion Explora Tour Bandits in Southern Europe Active Travel Companies C/ San José, s/n - Local 1-A Mijas Costa (Málaga) Tel.: (+34) 952 477 951 Fax: (+34) 952 479 016 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.exploramas.es Active Travel Companies EXPLORAMÁS EVENTS AND ADVENTURES Culture The Enigma The Enigma of the Moorish Moon Flamenco Teambuilding Andalusian Percussion Mind games Picasso's Back in Málaga Going Tapas . . Exploramás is a company formed by an exceptional team of qualified professionals, experts in physical education, tourism and marketing as well as pro sportspersons with long experience in outdoor activities and corporate events. They combine the two in the best of ways. Sports Adventure Challenge 1 Adventure Challenge 2 Mediterranean Challenge Donkey Polo Conquering the Mediterranean Sailing Regatta Mijas Costa Mijas Costa EXPLORAMÁS Events and Adventures EVENTS Adventure Canyoning Paintball Climbing Spelunking Mountain biking Trekking Quad rides Canoeing . . 332 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Active travel www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 333 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 334 TOURIST BOARD & Tapas: a delicious way to learn all about tapas, the best thing about Spanish cuisine. Maps in hand, tourists can visit bars in Málaga, Marbella, Ronda and other towns in the Costa del Sol, where one of us will be waiting for them after making the required reservation. . tORREMOLINOS CREATIVANDO S.L. . . Active Travel Companies Avda. Los Botijos Urb. Tío Charles, 1 - Apartamento 109 29639 Benalmádena Pueblo (Málaga) E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.creativando.es HOT AIR BALLOON RIDES A unique experience, balloons take off as dawn breaks and the wind does the rest. After landing, you'll be driven by an off-road vehicle to celebrate your first flight with a good cava wine. MULTI-ADVENTURES An explosive combination of rock climbing, rappel, and archery, among other sporting activities, always taken care of by expert guides. Approved material and equipment is used. BEACH TOURNAMENTS Sack races, gigantic balls, kayak, beach football… a wide range of activities and sports on the sand. TREASURE HUNT A game in which the players -arranged in teamsattempt to find hidden articles by means of a series of clues. . 334 CREATIVANDO S.L. ENTERTAINMENT Professional actors mingle with the participants in a corporate event (conference, meeting, convention, lunch, etc.) to spend a good time together. Active Travel Companies Amongst its offers are off-road vehicle rides, water sports, strolls by the seaside, hot air balloon rides, tapas routes in different villages of the Costa del Sol, multi-adventure excursions, hiking down canyons, treasure hunts, entertainment, film shooting… Food Gymkhana: Following a brief explanation given by a chef, the participating teams must prepare gazpacho, paella or pestiños (honey-coated pastries). The "cooks" will be served drinks and appetizers while they are preparing the delicious dishes, and the real chef is available all the time to answer any questions that might arise. He will HIKING DOWN CANYONS This is an exciting sport consisting in travelling in canyons using a variety of techniques that may include walking, scrambling, climbing, jumping, abseiling, and/ or swimming. Expert guides go with you. Creativando S.L. supplies the necessary equipment. SPOT AND SHORT FILM SHOOTING Customers become actors who star a film based on some bandit's story or a commercial to promote a product made by the company that hires the service. . CreativantoS.L. chooses the destination of and coordinates and schedules all the activities in your event. It deals with logistics, technical issues and human resources. To do that, Creativando S.L. has a professional staff who have worked in the travel industry for a long time. Rural Gymkhana: in this form of ghymkhana tests are quite unusual; for instance, looking for hens eyes covered, playing donkey polo matches, participating in handbarrow races or gazpacho competitions. WATER SPORTS Creativando S.L. organises regattas, catamaran or luxury yacht trips, and fishing excursions. OUTDOOR TRAINING This type of activity is aimed at developing leadership skills through tests and challenges that require self-assurance and team work. Behaviours different from regular ones can be observed while the activity is carried out. Torremolinos Torremolinos CreativandoS.L. Travel Agency is an Analusia-based company that has considerable experience in organising conferences, conventions and corporate events. It offers innovative, exclusive and entertaining activities. GYMKHANAS A gymkhana is an outdoor game in which teams are scored after doing a series of tests in a certain period of time. decide who the winning team is. Historical Gymkhana: The teams walk around the historic district and they come across people representing famous artists, writers or other historic characters who have participants engage in funny tests. CONVENTION BUREAU ROUTES Off-road Vehicles: Ride through the Sierra de las Nieves or Montes de Málaga. Visitors are offered the chance to drive off-road vehicles and use a road map they are given to carry out the activity. The guides can suggest unexpected tests to do. Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Active travel www.visitcostadelsol.com Contents Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions 335 rutas_interior_ENG_2 2008.qxp 06/11/2008 14:14 PÆgina 336 Travelmasters is a member of the Málaga Convention Bureau and the Costa del Sol Tourist Board. It organises seminars and attends fairs within or outside Spain. It has a unit named Agrimaster which organises technical programmes and rural trips. This business line is virtually unknown in our country as are rural trips. . tORREMOLINOS PROGRAMMES - Tours of the Costa del Sol - Sailing and cruises: Málaga, Almería, Cabo de Gata National Park Travelmasters specialises in business travel: conference, symposium, incentive trips, meetings… Founded fifteeen years ago, the firm offers services to medical societies and all kinds of profes sional associations. - Choirs and churches in Andalusia - Andalusia by bike - Trekking in Andalusia: Serranía de Ronda range, Nature Parks, etc. - Spanish literature route - Rural trips: Andalusian wines, farms . Torremolinos TRAVELMASTERS Active Travel Companies VIAJES MASTER INTERNACIONAL . C/ Emilio Esteban, Edif. Madrid 2 - 2nd floor 29620 Torremolinos (Málaga) Tel.: (+34) 952 051 819 Fax: (+34) 952 386 801 E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] Website: www.viajesmaster.com 336 Málaga, Sun, Routes and Excursions Active travel Contents