a golden opportunity - Welcome Aboard Golden Compass
Transcription
a golden opportunity - Welcome Aboard Golden Compass
TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO Caribbean Sea Golfo de Venezuela G O L D E N C O M P A S S : C AR I BB E AN , S O U T H A M E R I C A , M E D I T E RRAN E AN , M I DD L E E A S T , A F R I C A , A S I A Lago de Maracaibo PANAMA VENEZUELA Golfo De Panama GUYANA SURINAME Pacific Ocean COLOMBIA s beto Tram FRENCH GUIANA AMAZ ECUADOR Iquitos Oriximina ON Manaus Para Belem Parintins le Va ria Santarem os aj p Ta Alter do Chao BRAZIL Of the 4,000 winding miles A Golden Opportunity We began following Golden Compass as she cruised the balmy waters of Cuba, now we catch up with our adventure-bound photojournalist, Jim Raycroft, as he travels aboard this luxurious 151-footer deep into the heart of the Amazon. Story and Photography by Jim Raycroft july/august 2010 | SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL 104116 MARCH 2010 | SHOWBOATS.COM of the Amazon River, about 2,200— the distance from the mouth to Iquitos, Peru—are navigable for a 151ft globe-trotting luxury yacht such as Golden Compass. In terms of sheer volume, the Amazon is the largest river in the PERU Lima For the owners of Golden Compass, who have planned a two-year, world with no close second. around-the-world adventure seemingly plotted by following the road less traveled, visiting the largest of rivers was high on their list. The fact that few megayachts travel deep into the heart of the Amazon? All the better. Golden Compass will make her requisite visits at the posh ports La Paz of call as she treks across the globe, but much of the voyage will find her at off-the-beaten-path destinations favored by her intrepid owners, their friends,BOLIVIA and a few lucky charter guests. The owners’ plans called for Golden Compass to arrive in Belem, Brazil, in mid-March 2010 to begin a 700-mile journey to Parintins, Brazil. Situated 100 miles upriver from the Atlantic Ocean, the city of Belem (Portuguese for Bethlehem) is the gateway to the Amazon. With a population of nearly 1.5 million, this capital of the Brazilian State of Para is the largest city on the river and also the oldest. Dating back to 1616, Belem was the first European colony on the river and is rich in history and culture with well-preserved colonial architecture, lively markets, and a working fishing fleet. This is where Golden Compass’ AmazonianCHILE adventure would begin, PARAGUAY last-minute provisions Asuncion obtained—including dozens of five-gallon freshwater jugs—and final negotiationsAsuncion for river pilots and private security secured. There are no marinas in Belem, and the main city dock designed for oceangoing cargo ships is a formidable, rust-streaked structure built of concrete and steel, with giant truck tires living out their second life as docking fenders. Couple this with a tide of 20-plus-feet not only makes docking a challenge, but requires a diligent watch for the duration of time in port. ARGENTINA I was scheduled to meet the yacht up river at the port city of Santarem, poetically known as “The Pearl of Tapajos.” Santarem sits at the junction where the brown Amazon meets the blue Tapajors River—known locally as “the meeting of the waters,” the two rivers flow side-by-side for miles URUGUAY without mixing. Everything travels by boat here, yet there is precious little infrastructure needed to Buenos Aires accommodate the bustle of comings and goings. Built of wood harvested from the rain forest, riverSantiago Buenos AiresMontevideo Santiago boats of all sizes simply nose up to the sandy bank, drop a boarding plank to the beach, and hang a Montevideo sign displaying destination and departure time. These boats are the workhorses of the Amazon; their unique design has evolved through necessity to accommodate the needs of travel on the river. Some of the larger vessels carry livestock on the lowest level, freight and baggage on the next, and passengers on the upper deck. Passing a fleet of beached riverboats, passengers could be seen resting in their hammocks in the shade of the upper deck, which is open on the side for ventilation but covered for protection from the equatorial sun and frequent rain. My accommodations in the VIP cabin aboard Golden Compass would be at the opposite end of the comfort spectrum. I couldn’t help but wonder what it would be like to travel for days with a backpack and a hammock on one of these colorful vessels that tie together the communities of the Amazon. Brasilia The November to June rainy season causes 20-foot-plus flooding, turning otherwise dry land into floodplains and lakes. SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL | july/august 2010 117 G O L D E N C O M P A S S : C AR I BB E AN , S O U T H A M E R I C A , M E D I T E RRAN E AN , M I DD L E E A S T , A F R I C A , A S I A The Santarem market is a maze of color, sound, and aroma drenched in the smell of cooking fish and diesel exhaust. Geared to the local economy with few tourist items, the most sought-after provisions seemed to be shoes, hammocks, and machetes—I found the hardware shops to be most interesting. By evening, Golden Compass arrived and dropped anchor off the center of town. We enjoyed a fabulous dinner prepared by Chef Rinos consisting of stone crabs and steamed vegetables, introduced by a salad of marinated local prawns in ginger syrup served with avocado, julienne of carrots, and celery—all found locally in the Amazon. Early the next morning, we met renowned guide and naturalist Gil Serique in our 19ft Nautica tender and headed into Maica Lake, a body of water created by the floodwaters of the November to June rainy season—the water we were running over would be dry land in a month or two. Gil informed us that stingrays are actually a bigger threat in the river than the 10 species of piranha, and that water buffalo being transported from India to Peru some 200 years ITINERARY 2010-2012 Charter: International Yacht Collection (888) 213-7577, www.iyc.com; www.goldencompass.biz Cruising Area: Amazon River system; Brazilian State of Para Language: Portuguese Currency: Brazilian Real Safety: Security is not required, but is highly recommended. River Pilots: River pilots are required to navigate the river’s ever-changing conditions. Port Agents: Required in ports like Belem, Santarem, and Manaus to coordinate Customs and Immigration, moorage, fuel, and water. To coordinate river pilots, port agents, and security: [email protected] Visas: Those with U.S. and some other non-European passports must obtain visas before entering Brazil. Vaccinations: The Yellow Fever vaccination is recommended. Malaria is usually low and not required, but check the U.S. Center for Disease Control for up-to-date information. www.cdc.gov Golden Compass’ Amazon trip: Total distance traveled on the Amazon: 1,390 miles Average speed heading up river: 8.5 knots Average speed heading down river: 14 knots Each mile reveals another scene of life on the river; colorfully painted homes along the lush shore, myriad riverboats, local markets, and the playful Amazonian children. 2012: 2011: 2010: GOLDEN COMPASS FACT FILE ago and shipwrecked along the river are now a major threat to the environment, their hoofs compacting the soil while they devour everything green in sight, including the incredible giant water lilies that can grow to 40 inches in diameter and support as much as 70 pounds. Gil had arranged for a fisherman friend, Sabastiao, to meet us in his handmade canoe to paddled us into the flooded jungle. Silently gliding between the massive trees, Gil pointed out an array of parrots, birds, snakes, and a few three-toed sloths. Heading back, we stopped to talk with a piranha fisherman and observe his catch of a type of piranha that has virtually no teeth and crushes seeds with its powerful jaw. By noon, Golden Compass was underway to the small village of Alter do Chao. Considered to have one of the most beautiful beaches in the entire north region of Brazil, Alter do Chao is located on the blue water of Tapajos River, its sandy spit dotted with beach bars reminiscent of a Caribbean hideaway. Kicking back at Bardo Gabi, one of the tiny beach establishments, we ordered a round of bolinho de piracui (fried fish balls) and caipirinhas (rum, lime juice, and sugar over ice). Anchored off Alter do Chao in the glassy water of the Tapajos River, looking to the distant horizon I could barely make out the line where water met sky. But for the lack of salt air, the scale of the place could almost trick you into thinking it’s an ocean, not a freshwater river. Due to its great expanse that’s dotted with islands—some the size of Switzerland—the Amazon has earned the namesake “The River of the Sea.” To put it into perspective, the mouth of the Amazon is wider than the full length of the River Thames in England, and it is estimated that 20 percent of the entire world’s river water is in the Amazon. After nightfall, Golden Compass navigated into the Trombetas River bound for Oriximina. The all-night run up the Trombetas required a sharp lookout to avoid the debris drifting downstream. With two searchlights scanning the water ahead and the watchful eyes of our crew and river pilots providing lookout, we zigzagged through the darkness, dodging massive branches and entire trees capable of doing crippling damage to the yacht. Dawn broke with a sky of a thousand colors and brought greetings from Boto Cor de Rosa, a rare and endangered species of Amazonian pink river dolphin, diving and gliding along with us. Oriximina, established in 1877, is the westernmost city in the Brazilian state of Para and also sits directly on the equator. “Crossing-the-line” (the equator) we would soon find out that it brought with it a rite of passage deeply rooted in maritime tradition. Nautical legend holds that, “the sun shall not set on those of us who have this day sailed across the equator for the first time before they have been delivered to King Neptune and begged for permission to enter his realm.” And so, the owners, two crew, April: Canary Islands, Gibraltar, June/July/August: October: Turkish Islands, Israel January/February: India, September/October: January/February: South Pacific Cadiz, Genoa Mediterranean— November: Egypt, Red Sea Maldives, Seychelles, Sri Lanka SE Asia/Islands March: Hawaii May: Sardinia, Corsica Available for Charters December: Oman, Dubai March/April/May: Africa, SE Asia November/December: April: Pacific Crossing September: Greek Islands, June/July/August: Australia/New Zealand Fall: Amazon Turkey, Croatia, Montenegro China and Japan 118 july/august 2010 | SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL SHOWBOATS INTERNATIONAL | july/august 2010 119 G O L D E N C O M P A S S : C AR I BB E AN , S O U T H A M E R I C A , M E D I T E RRAN E AN , M I DD L E E A S T , A F R I C A , A S I A The Amazon is home to more species of animals and plants than any other ecosystem on the planet. and I were bound, blindfolded, and led to “King Neptune’s Court” on the sun deck. This once-in-a-lifetime experience must be personally sampled, so I leave the details to your imagination until you can experience it firsthand. As the heat of the day was easing, we arrived at the village of Boca de Valeria and dropped anchor at the mouth of the Valeria, a narrow river winding into the marsh between green hills, home to the primitive villages of Santa Rita de Cassia and Betseme. Visiting yachts are a rare sight here, and by the time the anchor was set the villagers had surrounded us in their canoes—old and young, some laughing and pointing, some quiet and unsure of our presence, but all of them curious. Our guide to explore the area, Mr. Anilson, arrived shortly after sunrise the next morning on his handmade boat, and we followed him with both tenders to a muddy beach where we climbed the hill to Santa Rita de Cassia— home to 62 families—accompanied by dozens of children from the village. The villagers subsist off fishing, hunting armadillo, making handcrafts, and government subsidies. Typical homes are unpainted, wooden shacks, and there are no roads or vehicles, but there was a modern school building complete with computers. And while there was no refrigeration, most everyone had satellite TV. The final stop on our journey was Parintins, where we dropped anchor and headed to town beneath a threatening, steel-grey sky. The occasional horse-drawn cart remains, but the streets are now full of bicycles, motorcycles, and scooters. Parintins isn’t a tourist destination until June when the town hosts the weeklong, carnival-like Boi Bumba Festival, luring tens of thousands of visitors. This being our most distant port of call on the Amazon, it was time to pick up a gift for my son. Back to the market—after all, what 15-year-old boy wouldn’t want his own authentic Brazilian machete? We cruised non-stop back to Belem over the next three days. As the river twisted and turned, massive oceangoing freighters and tug boats pushing heavy barges loaded low in the water pulled into view, and children came out in their canoes paddling madly to join us. The crew was ready with dozens of goodie bags of candy and toys. Mileafter-mile, this scene was repeated as dozens of canoes came out to meet us. Of course, not all is straightforward on the river. One morning, I had been alone on the aft deck as a man paddled close and made a dash for the swim platform. A hook and line ready, he snagged a stanchion on the platform, and with his canoe secured was set to climb aboard when he noticed me watching him, indicating with universal hand gestures that boarding this vessel would not be in his best interest. Perhaps he was on a friendly mission, but we had heard over the radio earlier that a boat had been boarded and robbed in the area. Andre, one of our security guards, was quickly on the scene—dressed in full combat gear, including armored vest, boots, and sporting a 12-gauge pump shotgun and 9mm pistol, he was all business. It took only the presence of armed security to have our visitor change his mind. With a smile and a “thumbs-up” he detached his canoe and slipped away in our wake. Back in the hub-bub of Belem, the quiet Amazon we had seen seemed worlds away. The contrast of being carried hundreds of miles into one of the more remote parts of the world in total luxury was amazing and startling in itself. The owners have planned their around-the-world journey on just such a concept. Indeed, Golden Compass is the perfect vessel for adventure travel. A five-star charter experience aboard Golden Compass is available across the globe and back on the Amazon in 2012, transporting guests to another world. Planning a trip on the Amazon Planning a yachting trip on the Amazon is a daunting undertaking requiring a significant amount of interaction with a variety of local contacts and government agencies. A minimum three-month lead time is suggested. The journey must comply with all relevant federal and state maritime requirements for navigating on the Amazon. The process will include hiring appropriately licensed river pilots and local agents for the duration of the intended journey. Although security is not required, it is strongly recommended. Attention to detail during the planning stage will go a long way to ensuring a pleasant journey once on the river. • Due to the ever-changing navigational conditions of the Amazon, up-todate charts are not available. There were places where our plotted position appeared to be over land, making the local knowledge of the river pilots invaluable. • Local agents are required in all major ports to coordinate with Customs and Immigration officials. • An excellent insider source for preplanning can be found at [email protected]. They were instrumental in making the journey a reality. • Visa and immunization requirements for all crew and passengers must be completed prior to entering Brazil. Check with the CDC for current vaccination advisories. • The owners chose to make the trip at the tail-end of the rainy season. Experiencing the river in a 20-foot-plus flood stage was well worth the occasional tropical rain. • River aids to navigation can be grossly unreliable or missing entirely and should not be trusted. • Give all river traffic a wide berth. Local riverboats made of wood, often carrying more than 100 passengers, provide poor radar targets and frequently travel unlit at night. Likewise, large, oceangoing ships move fast and can pop up around a river bend, as can huge, loaded barges pushed by tugs barely up to the task of controlling them. Never count on the alertness of their watch. Collision could spell disaster and create enormous liability for the yacht. • Beware of the “ratos d’ agua” (water rats)—individuals operating fast boats who are sometimes armed and can sneak aboard the unsuspecting boat with intent to rob. The most dangerous areas are the Breyes Straight near Belem and the area of Macapa/ Santana. Golden Compass chose to employ two armed personnel for 24/7 security. • Health violations are a serious offense. Having expired food aboard can generate expensive fines. ShowBoats International photojournalist Jim Raycroft joins the 151ft Golden Compass during her inaugural threemonth cruise. Cuba becomes the jumping-off point for the first in our around-the-world destination series aboard this impressive charter yacht. Story and Photography by Jim Raycroft Suki Finnerty GOLDEN ODYSSEY 104 MARCH 118 MARCH2010 2010| |SHOWBOATS.COM SHOWBOATS.COM What do you do after you’ve taken your family on a 16-month, five-star trip around the world, home schooling your two children while experiencing the usual and the unusual, the safe and not so safe, the wonders of the world, and the little gems tucked away in the corners of the globe? After living a life-changing experience that only extended travel can offer, what would you do for an encore? This was the question one family faced. They chose to acquire a world-class yacht and turn it into a unique, six-star travel experience for their family and a few, very fortunate charter guests. After a five-year search, they settled on the 151ft Golden Compass, built by the Italian yard Picchiotti. Following a nine-month, multi-million-dollar refit, this luxury charter yacht has embarked on her two-year, around-the-world adventure. When it comes to foreign travel, many people will not venture far off the beaten path. Most are satisfied with the luxurious but predictable travel destinations and experiences. And why not? From St. Barts to Portofino, Golden Compass will certainly see and be seen at the world’s well-known, posh cruising destinations— the Caribbean in winter, the Mediterranean in summer—but she also has some rather exciting ports of call on her itinerary that may whet the appetite of the more adventurous charterer. If winding 650 miles up the Amazon River, or tying up in Saigon or Havana sounds more like your cup of tea, you may consider booking a dream passage aboard Golden Compass. SHOWBOATS.COM | MARCH 2010 119 G O L D E N C O M P A S S : C A R I B B E A N , S O U TH A M E R I C A , M E D I T E RRAN E AN , M I DD L E E A S T , A F R I C A , A S I A There are those who would ask, “Is it safe?,” while others would exclaim, “When do we start?!” That’s not to suggest that a venture such as this is handled in a caviler manner—quite the contrary. As with any major undertaking, the success rests in the details, and these knowledgeable owners know a thing or two about attention to detail. A couple of world-traveling, high-level executives, the owners knew what they wanted. During their worldwide search for the right vessel, they even designed their own yacht and talked with several shipyards about building it, but were put off by the three-year-out delivery date. Instead, they teamed up with broker Noell Vawter of International Yacht Collection in Fort Lauderdale and yacht management director Graeme Lord, who acted as project manager, GOLDEN COMPASS ITINERARY 2009-2012 120 MARCH 2010 | SHOWBOATS.COM and became intimately involved with every aspect of the refit, living aboard for the nine months that it took to remove, replace, rebuild, reposition, re-class, and ultimately transform Golden Compass into their vision. Prepared for ports less-traveled, Golden Compass is of sufficient length—at 151 feet LOA and with a 29ft beam—to afford a voluminous interior space for her owners and guests. She features six cabins accommodating 12 guests, dining and main salons, a skylounge, and upper- and lower-deck al fresco dining areas. Her 8ft 6in draft allows access to anchorages generally unattainable to many vessels of similar length, while powerful stabilizers silently maintain comfort aboard. Dual watermakers ensure a never-ending supply of soothing baths and hot showers, while twin Cat D398 diesels propel her at a steady pace with enough fuel to do it nonstop for 3,200 miles. Golden Compass is under the command of former naval officer and 25-year maritime professional Captain Fernando Silvano, who holds an MCA 5000 GRT Masters license and leads an experienced international crew of eight. Having recently completed a two-and-a-half-year circumnavigation, Captain Silvano has the necessary background and knowledge to ensure a most memorable experience aboard while providing arrangements for off-boat excursions into the local scene and local culture along the way. Captain Silvano advises that “planning, patience, and flexibility are the keys to maximizing the pleasure of Golden Compass this unique experience.” His vast knowledge specifications of local contacts and port agents, regional weather patterns, legal requirements, vaccinaLOA: 151ft (46m) BEAM: 29ft 6in (9m) tions, visa documents, and security issues will DRAFT: 8ft 6in (2.6m) facilitate sea travel and land-side excursions of ENGINES: the most interesting and intimate nature. 2 x Caterpillar D398 diesels The cuisine aboard Golden Compass is second SPEED (cruise): 12 knots NAVAL ARCHITECTURE: to none—Chef Severino Contu, a native of Arthur LeFever Sardinia, is a highly dedicated and skilled profesBUILT: 1980/2009 sional. His qualifications extend to Michelin BUILDER: Picchiotti, Italy Star’d establishments and cover many years of (Now owned by Perini Navi) CHARTER: experience creating culinary delights in Italy, International Yacht Collection London, and Mexico, as well as aboard large www.iyc.com yachts plying the waters of the Mediterranean, Tel: 888- 213-7577 North Sea, Caribbean, and Venezuela. With a www.goldencompass.biz REFIT: Lauderdale Marine new menu each day, Chef “Rino” masterfully Center/Merrill Stevens creates “the simple but elegant.” Meal planning for such an adventure is no small matter, and neither is the storage, refrigeration, or freezer capability of Golden Compass. Although he will provision for the best local foods along the way, Chef Rino has ample space for his standard of five-star provisions. Golden Compass boasts a large main salon and aft deck, both accented with granite countertops and comfortable seating areas. 2009: 2010: April 2010: Atlantic crossing to (including Sardinia), Tunisia, 2011: 2012: Dominican Republic, ABC Eastern/Southern Caribbean Barbados, Trinidad, Tobago), Canary Islands, Gibraltar, Italy Malta, Croatia, Greece (including Mumbai, Maldives, Sri Lanka, China, Philippines, Australia, New Islands (Aruba, Bonaire, (Bahamas, Turks and Caicos Brazil (Amazon River), Brazil for (Genoa charter show) Greek Islands), Turkey (including Seychelles, Kenya, Tanzania, Zealand, South Pacific, TBD Curaçao), Colombia islands, Puerto Rico, British Carnival (Bahia, Rio, Recife) islands of Turkey), Israel Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, (Cartagena), Panama, Costa Virgin Islands, Guadeloupe, May 2010–November 2010: Rica, Jamaica, Cayman Islands, Dominica, Martinique, St. Lucia, Spain (including Majorca), France December 2010: Mexico, Cuba St. Vincent and the Grenadines, (including Corsica), Italy Red Sea, Yemen, Oman, Dubai Vietnam, Hong Kong SHOWBOATS.COM | MARCH 2010 121 G O L D E N C O M P A S S : C A R I B B E A N , S O U TH A M E R I C A , M E D I T E RRAN E AN , M I DD L E E A S T , A F R I C A , A S I A I caught up with Golden Compass at Marina Hemingway in Havana, Cuba, Golden Compass is the culmination of a family’s quest to get more out of their travels. near the end of the owners’ three-month inaugural cruise covering 3,050 nautical miles. Ports of call included Aruba, Curaçao, Bonaire, Isla Margarita, Los Roques, Cartagena, Panama, Costa Rica, Jamaica, Cayman Islands, and Cancun, Mexico. I arrived on board the Marshall Islands-flagged vessel as a guest of Captain Silvano, having been looking forward to visiting the island nation of Cuba for many years. Generally speaking, Americans are still prohibited from spending money in Cuba (see Reader’s Resource). Non-Americans are, for the most part, free to travel and enjoy the hospitality that the largest island in the Caribbean has to offer. With only a few days to cover as much ground as possible, we dove into the Cuban scene our first evening with a show at the famed open-air nightclub Tropicana, where an explosion of rhythm, dance, colorful costumes, and song presents 1950s Cuba. Surrounded by lush vegetation, we enjoyed a glittering spectacle featuring over 200 singers, dancers, and musicians. The following morning, we set off early for the south coast to the Bay of Pigs on the Zapata Peninsula for some fly fishing at Salinas de Brito, the natural system of inland lakes in the Zapata National Park about 90 miles from Havana. As has been told, many areas in Cuba look as if time has stood still. American cars from the 1950s are everywhere, held together with whatever is at hand; many repowered with Russian diesel engines. Chevys, Fords, and Cadillac convertibles grace the streets, some looking remarkable for their age and location, others looking a bit worn but still proud. On the outskirts of Havana, horse-drawn carts begin to outnumber old cars, but the road to the Playa Larga Hotel is good and well marked. We met our fishing guides midday and headed down the 25km of dirt road to the Horizontes Don Pedro Fishing Camp, stopping several times along the way to look out at the flocks of pink flamingos, herons, egrets, and countless other birds that inhabit the park. This area constitutes the main wetlands in the insular Caribbean that have been declared a biosphere reserve and Ramsar site by UNESCO. As the small flats boats have no outboards, the fishing guides power them with poles. Curiosity eventually got the better of me, and I took a turn at the pole, enjoying the fine weather in this under-fished environment. Not far from the Playa Larga Hotel and set back from the road is one of the unique scuba/snorkeling sites of the speleo lacustrine system of flooded caves and sinkholes. The water is fresh on the surface and transitions abruptly to salt several feet down—the transition layer creating a visual blur until you dive below it where the temperature A country lost in time, Cuba remains much as it was in the 1950s, with cobblestone streets, colonial-style buildings, and an unspoiled ecological system. SHOWBOATS.COM | MARCH 2010 123 G O L D E N C O M P A S S : C A R I B B E A N , S O U TH A M E R I C A , M E D I T E RRAN E AN , M I DD L E E A S T , A F R I C A , A S I A Pilar, Hemingway’s prized Wheeler Playmate, and his home office remain—like most of this Caribbean country— frozen in time. increases noticeably. Following this plunge into the jungle, we headed across the road to the beach for an ocean snorkel session, where the untouched reefs appear very healthy, teaming with coral and tropical fish. The next day we returned near Havana for a visit to Finca La Vigía, the former estate of Ernest Hemingway where he finished the famous novel, For Whom the Bell Tolls. A bell with a long line hanging near the door waits for all so inclined to haul down on it. The house is in surprisingly good condition, loaded with his personal furnishings and art. The famous 1959 Yousuf Karsh portrait of Hemingway hangs on the wall, while his books and typewriter remain in his office, looking every bit as though it were still occupied. Every window gives up another point of view into this fascinating life and residence—all from the outside looking in. I slowly worked my way around the house, sharing window space with tourists Reader’s Resource U.S. State Department www.travel.state.gov Horizontes Don Pedro Camp Tel: (045) 912 825/987 212 Ernest Hemingway www.hemingwaypreser vationfoundation.org Cuba Navigational Charts www.nv-charts.com 124 MARCH 2010 | SHOWBOATS.COM from all over the world. Hemingway’s fishing boat was the 38ft Wheeler Playmate Pilar built in Brooklyn, New York, in 1934 for $7,500. He was a major player in the beginnings of sportfishing and had reportedly chased around after German U-boats off the Cuban coast. Pilar appears to have been completely restored and rests on what was the tennis court under a protective roof next to the swimming pool. I was able to get aboard for a few minutes, sit in the fighting chair, and slip down into the cabin—what incredible stories this boat could tell. Back in Havana for the evening, we had picked up tickets for the show at the Havana Club featuring the lengendary Buena Vista Social Club. There they were, live and in person—a great show in this intimate venue. The following morning we set off for Freeport, Bahamas, but due to deteriorating weather conditions had to put in at Key West, which allowed for a drink at Sloppy Joe’s, ending the trip at another of Hemingway’s haunts. The next leg of the Golden Compass odyssey will include the Eastern Caribbean, Grenada, and Brazil for Carnival (Bahia, Rio, Recife), continuing on to Uruguay (Punta del Este) and Brazil (Amazon River). From there the yacht will depart in April for a crossing to Gibraltar and continue through the Mediterranean and eastward. Those interested in taking part in any section of this great adventure can contact International Yacht Collection’s charter department.