full Press kit

Press Kit Interfilière Paris January 24|25|26 2015 # The Show
#01
les Tissages Perrin
#1
THE SHOW
__
03/ I. Interfilière Paris
driving new ideas and
inspiration
__
04-07/ II. The Exception
the importance of being
bold!
The Exception space
A brief history of silk
Ode to Silk conference
Daniel Henry - invitation to a textile
finishing lab
__
08-09/ III. Piave Maitex
voted Designer of the
Year 2015 within the
framework of Paris Capitale
de la Création, Intimates
Category
#2
TRENDS AND
NEW
EXHIBITORS
__
#3
MARKET FOCUS:
SILK and
LOUNGEWEAR
__
01-03/ I. General Trend
forum
01-05/ I. Silk
a timeless
noble material
Interfilière Paris shakes up conventions
The 8 Houses
Colours & Flavours
__
04-10/ II. New products
from the exhibitors
A well-preserved niche market
Silk makes anything possible
No mean feat!
Discrete and yet …
In figures
__
06-11/ II. Loungewear
finds its feet
Cross-over products
Loungewear, giving free rein to
expression
The feel-good factor
Making inroads in-store
What about men?
A festival of subtle fabrics at
Interfilière Paris
Interview with Luca Barbini
Piave Maitex in 10 key dates
__
10-12/ IV. Conference
Programme
Interfilière Paris guides buyers
9th photography competition
Show partners
Exhibitor list
2 # Interfilière Paris
CONTENTS
les Tissages Perrin
INTERFILIÈRE PARIS,
driving new ideas and
inspiration
T
his winter edition of Interfilière Paris is a one-of-a-kind event. The show is
reinventing itself to inspire new concepts for the benefit of professionals
throughout the intimates, beachwear and performance sectors. Alongside the
Salon International de la Lingerie, Interfilière Paris is an unrivalled force, offering the very
best in fabrics and accessories. Its leading position in the market has been demonstrated
beyond doubt. 171 exhibitors from 32 different countries, i.e. an increase of 13% in
comparison to 2014, and 10,000 international visitors are coming together at the very
start of 2015 to keep track of market developments and plan exciting shared projects.
This session, the show’s guiding theme is silk,
it will take pride of place in ‘The Exception’ space which pushes back the boundaries
of technical prowess, performance and aesthetics. The very finest developments from
the latest collections have been selected to reflect the silk market, a market continually
driven by innovation.
The list of companies participating in ‘The Exception’ includes Les Tissages Perrin,
Willy Hermann, Pongees and Jean Bracq. ‘The Exception’ area will be accompanied by a
conference entitled ‘Ode to Silk’, a special leaflet and a project by Daniel Henry, focusing
on silk finishing techniques.
The General Trend Forum has been given a makeover.
Established codes have been shaken up to offer a fresh new
perspective on trends for summer 2016! Eight houses
will each present a strong direction in the market,
such as a colour, new technical procedure or a particularly
dynamic sector.
The show is celebrating Piave Maitex
– its
new Designer of the Year 2015 in the intimates category.
An Italian company, specializing in Raschel and warp-knits,
Piave Maitex boasts traditional know-how and a capacity
to innovate. By creating around 120 products each year, it
has earned its status as one of Europe’s leading suppliers of
stretch fabrics. The company’s remarkable work deserves to
be placed in the limelight!
And as always, the range of services provided by the show
and its exhibitors will be rounded off by a programme of
conferences, the exhibitor photography competition,
the Business Networking Service and a series of sourcing
guides.
We hope you enjoy your visit!
Interfilière first
opened its doors on
11 February 1985.
Thirty years later, it is better
than ever! Accompanied by
its international editions
in Hong Kong, Shanghai
and New York, Interfilière
has become a label of
excellence recognized by
the entire profession. This
winter session will be kickstarting the celebrations and
honour all those who have
contributed to the success of
Interfilière Paris. Thank You!
01# The Show / January 2015 #
3
OLIVIA VON HALLE
THE EXCEPTION
the importance of being bold!
For the third time, Interfilière Paris will be highlighting
innovation and technological progress in its ‘The Exception’
space. Following in the footsteps of lace and embroidery, silk
will be taking centre stage this session!
T
his space reflects an ever-evolving market, where research,
development, creativity and innovation are the watchwords.
The products have been carefully selected from the creations
showcased by the 171 exhibitors participating at Interfilière Paris,
on the basis of their quality, technical performance and composition
(minimum 45% silk). They are all the more innovative, exceptional
and rare since only those identified as VIPs by participating
exhibitors will be entitled to enter this highly secure area. They will
be required to show proof of identity. In addition to development
perspectives, The Exception will offer them an unconventional and
innovative take on silk.
4 # Interfilière Paris
Silk – a multi-faceted fabric
___ Wonderfully soft and delicate, with an unrivalled sheen, this
most noble natural material has always been associated with
women’s lingerie. Insulating, fine, light, fluid and strong, its many
qualities make it a truly exceptional fabric, capable of reinventing
itself. Compatible with a variety of processes – printing, dyeing,
conversion and finishing techniques – silk deserves its enviable
position as a firm favourite with Haute Couture designers.
No longer exclusively reserved for an elite clientele, silk has
become more accessible, affordable and contributes to a more
upscale brand positioning. In addition to its functional qualities,
silk offers enhanced technical properties to satisfy new consumer
requirements, thanks to developments in machinery and new fibre
blends.
les TISSAGES PERRIN
Surprising, inspiring, stimulating,
imagining
___ We are all familiar with silk as a fine, fluid fabric with an enviable
shine, but its potential goes well beyond established preconceptions.
Les Tissages Perrin, the Lyon-based silk specialist, will provide
an educational insight into various types of silk available: chiffon,
elastane chiffon, light satin, duchesse satin, crepe, crepon, one-way
and two-way stretch satin, organza, etc.
Silk can be even more surprising when combined with other
materials. The embroidery specialists, Bischoff Textil AG and
Haemmerle & Vogel, are presenting embroidery on silk grounds
such as satin and silk tulle. While the Italian embroidery company,
Junior SRL by AdeleZibetti, will showcase stretch embroidery in
100% silk.
Lace is also present. Solstiss is working on 100% silk leavers lace
and Jean Bracq is working on ‘re-embroidered’ lace using ribbon
silk.
Willy Hermann (Austria) and Taubert (Germany) will be presenting
circular and flat knits in 100% silk. On the accessories side, silk is
often used to provide a luxurious finishing touch. Textiline and
Cheynet have created silk trims, while Muehlmeier is showcasing
silk-covered bra-cups for super soft comfort!
For further details, “The Exception” guide will be made available
to all visitors.
PARTICIPATING EXHIBITORS:
APSARA SILKS, BISCHOFF, D2P BILLON, CHEYNET ELASTICS,
HAMMERLE & VOGEL, WILLY HERMANN, JEAN BRACQ / TEXTILINE,
JUNIOR SRL BY ADELE ZIBETTI, MUEHLMEIER BODYSHAPING,
LES TISSAGES PERRIN, PONGEES LIMITED, SOLSTISS, TAUBERT,
PROFECTIA MANUFACTURING.
01# The Show / January 2015 #
5
A brief history of silk
It is very difficult to determine exactly
when silk was discovered but it is
thought to have been used for over
4,500 years. The Chinese were the
first to succeed in “domesticating” the
silkworm, keeping the art a closelyguarded secret and even threatening
anyone who broke the silence with
the death penalty. The secrets of silk
would not be revealed to the West
until 3,000 years later.
Well before Arab conquests in the
Middle East, North Africa and Spain
brought sericulture (silk production)
in their wake, this luxurious fabric
travelled all the way to Europe in long
caravans that journeyed along the silk
road.
From that point onwards, the Chinese
monopoly gradually waned and other
countries established themselves as
silk producers. Italy created a silk
transformation industry in the 12th
century.
The French monopoly in silk trading was
established in Lyon from 1450, and was further
consolidated under the reign of François I, who
contributed to the increasing influence of Lyon’s
silk manufacturers. By 1554, twelve thousand
people made their living from silk weaving.
Japan also began making a significant impact in
the silk industry in the late 19th century, since
it succeeded in controlling diseases affecting
silkworms, it exported considerable quantities of
raw silk to Europe and the United States. In 1923,
Yokohama became one of the world’s largest silk
depositories.
Today, the main silk-producing countries are
as follows: China, India, Brazil, Uzbekistan and
Thailand. Silk fabric is mainly manufactured in
Japan, China and Europe, in the Lyon region, as
well as in Italy.
les TISSAGES PERRIN
Ode to silk
Conference at 11.00am on Monday 26 January, led by Dominique Demoinet
Intimates occupy a world of sublime, delicate, precious and appealing fabrics.
But silk has something extra. It attracts and fascinates. Despite the revolution in modern
fabrics and the return to favour of natural fibres, silk continues to symbolize Exception.
Unchanging, it transcends the centuries. Untouchable, it is preserved by human hand.
Designers, brands, silk manufacturers and lace-makers will exchange their impressions
on this incomparable material. They will offer their opinions on the work involved, with
all due respect: what is it about silk that fascinates, sometimes to the point of obsession?
What is the best way of highlighting its fabulous qualities? Should it remain firmly
anchored at the high end of the market or should we attempt to make it more accessible?
What remains of the European silk market? and what is the future of a fabric dating back
450 centuries?
With :
CHANTAL THOMASS
JACQUES DAUMAL, CEO at Lise Charmel
Stéphane GUERIN, Marjolaine
JEAN LAURENT PERRIN, CEO at Les Tissages Perrin
JOSEPH FRANK, Board of Directors, Taubert
With the participation of the Designer, Daniel Henry
6 # Interfilière Paris
Anna Kimes
Lauren Ejngoren
Sid Yahao Sun
Daniel Henry
Invitation to a textile finishing lab
Daniel Henry has spent the last 14 years creating exceptional materials within his
soft materials research, development and production laboratory in Tournai, Belgium.
Recognized for his work transforming fabrics and textures, he is the undisputed specialist
in textile finishing and printing. His work has been selected for the catwalks by some
of the biggest names in design: Balenciaga, Marc Jacobs, Rochas, Chanel and Martin
Margiela.
Using an innovative artistic approach, based on experimentation and gradual
improvement, Daniel Henry combines a variety of procedures and techniques – ranging
from the most traditional to cutting-edge innovations – to reveal the potential of his
materials. It’s hardly surprising that Interfilière Paris has commissioned him for a second
exclusive and original project, focusing on silk this time round!
Chiffon, crepe, satin, velours, jersey...a wide variety of different weights and textures and
the expertise to match. Silk can be stiffened, gaining structure and weight thanks to 3D
printing, blistered to add air, burnt-out to create dévoré effects or even overlapped for
layered effects. Daniel Henry Studio has been working on the project with three young
fashion and textile design graduates – Sid Yahao Sun, Lauren Ejngoren and Anna Kimes
– who have been invited to design an intimates-inspired outfit. The young designers
will work with silk fabrics supplied by Interflière Paris exhibitors, which have been
transformed by Daniel Henry Studio.
01# The Show / January 2015 #
7
Piave Maitex
voted Designer
of the Year
2015 within the
framework of
Paris Capitale de la
Création, Intimates
Category
Piave Maitex
Established in 1908, this Italian company
with a long tradition in stretch fabrics
has been present at Interfilière since
the show started. Now one of Europe’s
leading specialists in warp-knits and
Raschel knits, Piave Maitex demonstrates
a proven capacity for understanding
market requirements and anticipating
trends. The company’s unique knowhow and experience have earned it the
prestigious title of Designer of the Year in
the Intimates Categor.
Luca Barbini: It’s a prestigious prize. We’re very proud of it. It rewards
our creativity but also our unique entrepreneurial spirit which enables
us to make the most of our resources and efforts on a daily basis. This
award is like a ‘keystone’ in the ongoing pursuit of our current and
future goals. It is the international recognition of the work to which our
research and development team has been tirelessly committed for many
years now. This work focuses on the product and innovation at every level,
knitting, printing, textile finishing…
# Which are your current top three innovative solutions?
L.B.: Definitely the Body One bands, with a fabric concept that is capable of saving
time when manufacturing end-products. 3D Fabrics, with brand new 3D effects, and
Tecnogrip, a non-slip fabric concept.
8 # Interfilière Paris
LUca barbini
# What does this award mean to you?
10 key dates since
Piave Maitex was
established in 1908:
# Can you explain the creative process
at Piave Maitex?
L.B.: Our creative process is divided into three
phases: firstly, commercial information is gathered
from the market to evaluate requirements expressed
and market demand on a worldwide scale. We also
aim to anticipate future requirements, taking on
board the technical and aesthetic but also ethical
aspect of products, their environmental dimension.
Next, we select and define projects using technical
criteria based on complexity and industrial
coherence. This second phase continues with the
creation of prototypes and compatibility pre-testing
using our quality standards.
Finally, industrial audits are carried out on projects
which performed well during pilot testing. These
are then prepared for market launch, in line with
established marketing criteria. Turnaround times
are hard to estimate: certain projects can take a year
to complete, due to the complexity levels involved
or unforeseen technical aspects. Usually a period of
at least 3 to 6 months is required to launch a new
project.
# What do you hope to gain from this
award?
L.B.: This award will be a precious ally in implementing
new projects and subsequently boosting our products’
dynamism on global markets. The prize will be given
centre stage as a testimonial and demonstration
of the excellence of our production. It will also be
used to promote projects in partnership with clients,
which we see as a strategic element of innovation.
# What are your latest challenges?
L.B.: Our objective is to continue creating products
in accordance with new market requirements. It’s
a challenge that knows no limits. End-consumers
understand and appreciate the potential of technical
fabrics, even, and above all, for everyday articles.
Over the coming years, success will be defined
by creating fabrics which are capable of offering
specific functionalities, performance that enhances
wellbeing and comfort without compromising
aesthetics and fashion. Innovation remains a tricky
area that should be handled carefully so that it does
not become overly mainstream or extreme, and to
combine innovations with practical concerns.
• 1911 •
Gold Medal at the Universal
Exhibition in Turin.
• 1918 •
Activities resume after WW1.
Situated at the foot of Monte
Grappa, the company had
been used as an Austrian
military hospital.
• 1960 •
Widths of stretch fabrics first
produced.
• 1996 •
ISO 9001 Certification, one
of the first companies in
Europe to obtain it.
• 2000 •
Introduction of new
generation fine-gauge ‘Peau
d’Ange’ microfibres.
• 2001 •
PIAVE and MAITEX merge
to create a fully integrated
producer, from yarn
sourcing, knitting, dyeing,
finishing and embellishment
through to printing.
• 2005 •
Launch of Oversexy, first
range of fabrics designed to
satisfy the new Shapewear
concept.
• 2006 •
Launch of Greenline range,
an immediate response to
the need for eco-friendly
natural products.
• 2010 •
First ergonomic fabrics
offering differentiated
stretch introduced.
• 2012 •
Arrival of microencapsulated
cosmetic textiles and
development of infrared
ceramic technology.
01# The Show / January 2015 #
9
CONFERENCE
PROGRAMME
The Salon International de la Lingerie and
Interfilière Paris conferences are a key point of
reference for all the latest news from the sector!
THE TREND CONFERENCES
___ The Concepts Paris, Nelly Rodi, Promostyl,
and Peclers trends agencies reveal the major
trends for Summer 2016 and offer an
exclusive preview of the Fall/Winter 16-17
season.
THE IMPORTANCE OF
STORYTELLING?
___ Saturday 24 January at 1.00pm
Carlin International – Alexandre Rostaing
Brand loyalty and identification are in
decline today. According to the Havas
Meaningful Brands 2013 Worldwide Study
of 14 countries (including China, Japan,
and the USA), most people wouldn’t care if
73 percent of existing brands disappeared.
Consumers don’t buy just a product; they
buy the story the product tells. Telling your
story has become essential in order to give
meaning to your message and to re-establish
a connection to the consumer.
So what are the new storytelling tools to
help brands increase their potential to
attract and engage customers?
THE CONSUMER EXPERIENCE
___ Saturday 24 January at 3.15pm
Agence Cent-Degres – Thibault Ponroy
‘The importance of human capital at the core
of the new consumer experience’
Spurred by digital development, the retail
world faces a revolution in ‘general purpose
technologies’ in the coming years. These new
experiences are examined on the basis of a
five-year study, conducted by a community
of trend scouts looking for retail innovations.
10 # Interfilière Paris
CONFERENCE: A PORTRAIT OF
CHINESE WOMEN
___ Sunday 25 January at 11.00am
Eurovet – Cécile Vivier-Guérin, Marketing
Manager; and Carlin International – Sylvie
Maignan, Marketing Director
Eurovet presents its study on Chinese women
consumers. Carlin International turns its
expert eye on the style and beauty standards
of this still little-known consumer group.
WHAT SELLS BEST IN LINGERIE
NOW?
___ Sunday 25 January at 1.30pm
Francesca Spinetta, Editor in Chief, Intima
Group
This exclusive report on lingerie covers 500
boutiques in Europe and the United States.
Learn about the best-selling brands, this
season’s styles and colours, and the most
sought-after product categories.
MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR
WINDOW DISPLAY?
___ Sunday 25 January at 2.45pm
Valerie Charier, Editor in Chief, ‘Créations
Lingerie’
Your shop window is your initial contact
with customers – it gives them a first look
into your store. The window display is the
best tool for creating traffic in your boutique.
How can you design it for optimal effect?
A merchandising professional and four
boutiques share their experiences, tips and
success stories.
Participants: Béatrice Querette, CEO,
Merchanfeeling; Elisa Lingerie Boutique
(Nancy); Apollon Boutique (Nice); La Boîte à
Bas (Rennes); and Rêve Ligne (Rennes).
SPECIAL RUSSIAN CONFERENCE
___ Monday 26 January at 10.00am
Eurovet
A focus on the Russian lingerie market:
-Key figures and consumer profiles. How to enter the
Russian market, with Hélène Baillon, Department
Head, Fashion, Luxury & Culture, Ubifrance
-Round table: Myths and opportunities in the
Russian market. How to adapt to new changes in
the marketplace. Presented by Mr Nekrassov, Le Fil
Franco-Russe, with Natalia Medved, Kontatto Group;
Oleg Tchakechev, Mia-Mia; and Sergey Tsvetkov, LTC
ODE TO SILK
___ Monday 26 January at 11.00am
Eurovet
See page 6.
PRESS CONFERENCE TUNISIA
___ Monday 26 January at midday
Press event and reception, held by the centre for
export promotion CEPEX - Tunisia Export.
Venue: Interfilière Paris VIP/PRESS lounge.
SHOW PARTNERS
___
As part of Interfilière’s 30th birthday
celebrations, Les Tissages Perrin and
Interfilière Paris will be giving silk
scarves to journalists and the first 50
visitors to the VIP/Press lounge.
www.tissages-perrin.com
This session, Satab is illustrating the
forum’s colour range with its doublesided satin ribbons, dyed specially for
the show. Visitors to the trend forum
will be given bracelets.
Satab and Interfilière Paris will also be
offering ribbon laces to journalists for
customizing shoes, boots and trainers!
www.satab.com
INTERFILIÈRE PARIS
GUIDES BUYERS
___
Interfilière Paris is offering a number
of tools to accompany visitors and
facilitate their visits. Initiated last July,
visitors will be provided with ‘sourcing
guides’ to assist them in their purchasing
decisions. These come in the form of
various different ‘focus’ sheets: market
focus sheets, covering loungewear,
menswear and the eco-friendly market,
and product focus sheets on silk and
cotton. The Business Networking
Service will also boost networking
opportunities between visitors and
exhibitors at the show.
Available on the General Forum.
JIUN HER EMBROIDERY LACE
9th PHOTOGRAPHY
COMPETITION
___
This competition continues to inspire
exhibitors and allows them to express
themselves in a different way. Votes
will be cast online and on-site during
the show and the winner will receive a
communication pack for the next session
of the show. This year’s theme: ‘Far from
being reserved exclusively for lingerie,
silk symbolizes softness, exception, shine,
nature, comfort and wellbeing: What
about you, how does it inspire you?’
CAP SUD J3
01# The Show / January 2015 #
11
EXHIBITOR list
* New exhibitor
A- B
ALGE ELASTIC, R41
ANTIK DANTEL, P60
AP SOURCING, S33
APSARA SILKS, S29
ARONNE FACCIO GROUP*, T60
ART MARTIN, R40- S41
ARULA, P19
ATELIER NATANSKI PARIS*, N36
AXEL MARKET MANAGEMENT, N26
BE BE COTTON, N11
BERTEX*, N67
BERTHEAS & Cie*, R35
BISCHOFF GAMMA ( THAILAND ), T70
BISCHOFF ROJA EMBROIDERIES, T70
BISCHOFF TEXTIL AG, T70
BOOS TEXTILE ELASTICS, P19
BOSELLI, R17
BOUVELLE, R24- S25
BRAS LIMITED/PRETIUM LIMITED, T68
BRODERIES DESCHAMPS, R77
BRUGNOLI GIOVANNI*, T61
C- D
CABILUX*, N63TER
CAP SUD - J3, S40-T41
CELEB TEXTILES, P17
CENTRE DE PROMOTION DES EXPORTATIONS, N69
CHANTY LACE, P61
CHEYNET ELASTICS, R35
CHIEF YOU CORPORATION, R80
CHIH YI EMBROIDERY, R81
COASTLINE SECRETS*, N63BIS
CODENTEL, P70- R71
COLOMBO ANTONIO, S42-T49
CONCEPT PARIS*, N39
DARQUER, P56
D2P BILLON, R25
DEA DESSINS*, N34
DENTELLES MC*, P78
DENTELLES MERY*, P78
DESI SARL*, N68
DESSEILLES LACES, R79
DGE, R34- S35
DIGITAL FABRIC, N27
DJIC LIMITED, N32
DOGI INTERNATIONAL FABRICS*, R18- S19
DRESDNER SPITZEN, R8- S7
E-F
EAST & SILK INTERNATIONAL LTD*, S20
EFA - Elastic Fabrics of America*, R18- S19
EMBREX LTD, P68
EMME LATVIA, N18
ENCAJES, R48
ENFAVET INTERNATIONAL, N70
EUROTEXTILE, R42
EUSEBIO, P26
FASHION RESOURCES, P40
FEINJERSEY FABRICS, P25
FEMINA LACE INTERNATIONAL, R50- S51
FILDAN ACCESSORIES, S43
FLEXYFORM, R40- S41
FORSTER ROHNER, R67
FRITZ MOLL TEXTILWERKE, R8- S7
FTE - EPAU - NOVA, P48
G-H-I
GAYOU LACE INDUSTRIAL, N50- P57
GIEMME S.p.A., N32BIS
GROBELASTIC, P42
GROUPE CARLIN INTERNATIONAL, P37
HAMMERLE & VOGEL, P67
HÄNDEL + DILLER, P33
HANG GANG LACE, N42
HAVANAS, S59
WILLY HERMANN, P2- R7
HONG GANG LACE, N42
HONG TSAI INTERNATIONAL, N11
I.R.T.E.*, N40
IEBOSA, S60
ILUNA GROUP, N50- P57
INDESMALLA, R51
INNOTEX MERKEL & RAU, S22
INPLET PLETIVA, S17
INTERLINGE INTIMATES, N63
INTER- SPITZEN, R68
IRIS TUNISIE, N44
J-K
JABOULEY, R24- S25
JEAN BRACQ / TEXTILINE, P76
JINHAI WARP KNITTING, N33
JIUN HER INDUSTRIAL, S34
12 # Interfilière Paris
JOSEF OTTEN*, S27
JOTTA ENTERPRISE, S18
JUNIOR HAGEN ( HK ) LTD, R49
JUNIOR HAGEN LTD, R49
JUNIOR SRL BY ADELE ZIBETTI, N76- P71
JUNO ( HK ), N26BIS
KEWALRAM INDONESIA, T67
KURODA LACE, S49
L- M - N
LA GRIFFE INTERNATIONALE, R47
LAUMA FABRICS, N18
LE TEXTILE, N18
LEGOPLAST SRL*, P43
LES TISSAGES PERRIN, R26
LIBERTY TEX, S80
LIEBAERT, N2- P9
LIOR, P27
MACOSA, N61
MAGLIFICIO RIPA*, N25
MELEK DANTEL*, R58- S57
MG CREATION, R24- S25
MIATEX, S36
MICHELE LETIZIA*, N41
MIROGLIO TEXTILE , N16
MODA PIERRE, P41
MODE...INFORMATION, N37
MR CREATION, R19
MUEHLMEIER BODYSHAPING, R43
WALTER NATTER*, R49
NELLY RODI - TRENDLAB, N36BIS
NEW BODY LINE, N64
NOYON DENTELLE, P56
NUITS de SATIN*, N40BIS
NUREL TEKSTIL, N45
O-P-Q-R
ODEA, R34- S35
PAPILLON RIBBON & BOW, P39
PECLERS PARIS, P35BIS
PENN ITALIA, R10- S9
PENN TEXTILE SOLUTIONS, R10- S9
PIAVE MAITEX, R16
PIR- INCI*, P43BIS
PISA TEKSTIL, P24
PIZVAL, R57
PONGEES LIMITED, R32
PROFECTIA MANUFACTURING*, N60
PROMOSTYL, N38BIS
PROMOTEX / UIT- NORD / URIC- UNIMAILLE, P74
RICAMIFICIO DI FAGNANO*, P50
RICAMOFIL, P50
RIMTEKS, P32
RITEX 2002, R33
ROBERT BLONDEL*, N29
ROCLE BY ISABELLA, N10
ROMATEX BY RONA TEXTIL*, R49
RONA TEXTIL*, R49
RR COLLECTION, N26
RUEFF TEXTIL, P34
S -T
SAKAE LACE, N57
SANKO TEKSTIL, P10
SATAB FASHION, R34- S35
SERAM, R34- S35
SITIP, P18
SIVA, S61
SOFILETA, P11
SOLSTISS, R75
SOULIS - KUEHNIS, T80
STUDIO ELEVEN*, N34BIS
SURETA INTERNATIONAL, S34
SUSANNA SAMSON DESIGN, N38
SUZHOU MOONLACE TEXTILE*, P58
TAKEDA LACE GROUP, P49
TAUBERT TEXTIL, R8- S7
TDI - TEXTILDRUCK, S27
TESSITURA ROSSI, R27
TEXTILE ENTREPRISE*, S16
TEXTIMALHAS, N74
TIANHAI LACE, S50-T57
TVB -TEXTIL-VERTRIEB - BERATUNGS, R8- S7
U -V-W-Y-Z
UHLEMANN & LANTZSCH, S22
UNION AG, S68
LOUIS VIDON, R35
VTL*, N35
WEBER LACE, S61
WING WIN ENTERPRISES, P35
YILBA TEKSTIL*, N19
ZENGCHENG ORIENTAL EMBROIDERY, S79
ZEUGMA, P10
#02
This session the show is inaugurating a
new version of the Forum which is sure
to satisfy visitors.
By Concepts Paris
T
aking the form of a “Village Square”, it reflects the excitement of the market and
follows major evolutions in market trends, irrespective of the season, as well as the
ensuing strong colours, associated with lifestyles.
In the centre of the space, the Evolution counter will display the colour range for Summer
2016, as well as fabrics inspired by the Evolution Trends book published by the show.
Eight houses are spaced around the square. Each of them recreates the atmosphere of a
workshop to showcase a key theme: a colour, rising market or revolutionary technique,
etc. Meticulous and cutting-edge fabric selection ensures that only the newest and most
innovative products are featured. Exclusive prototypes by Interfilière Paris exhibitors and
the latest findings from shopping trips throughout the world will also be displayed.
Press Kit Interfilière Paris January 24|25|26 2015 # Trends & New products from the exhibitors
GENERAL TREND
FORUM
Interfilière Paris
shakes up
conventions
‘Village Square’
The Eight Houses
#AROMATIC FLOWERS
___ Heavenly surprises and lightness in this
gorgeous yet innovative romantic theme. Garden
blooms and wild flowers guide the way in an
original context, cherishing the poetic feel of handmade and painted effects. Not to be missed: ultrafine yarns for lace and embroidery.
#BLACK MAGIC
___ Technological developments take pride of
place and update the founding principles of the
lingerie and corsetry sector. Dark and sensual
shades are interpreted in two-way stretch lace,
embroidery and stretch jacquards, as well as
printed shaping fabrics.
#FESTIVE REDS
___ Intense without vulgarity, red takes to
the limelight. The secret is to combine it with
luxurious textures and finishes. The festive spirit of
“dressy” occasional-wear is evoked by new scales
of lace and embroidery, fine and original guipure
trims, as well as satin-finish jacquards.
#SHADES OF PALE
___ A celebration of the most authentic lingerie
shades! Texture and surface effects contribute to
an unrivalled sense of refinement. This theme is
marked by the return of 1960s geometric motifs
and 1970s crochet looks. Inspiring new ideas for
loungewear, with brand new white textures.
2 # Interfilière Paris
#SPICED-UP
___ Cultural references and aromatic shades come
together in a slightly eccentric theme. Worth
noting: updated block prints, necktie-patterns and
jacquard-looks which make the most of creative
embroidery on ultra-fine lace and printed silks.
On the menswear side, boxer-shorts and dressing
gowns feature tie-motifs in cotton and silk.
#SEA GLASS
___ In a pale and harmonious palette, pastel
shades take inspiration from new sheer and
iridescent effects. An aquatic universe of sand and
shells features in organic and animal-inspired
motifs and effects, such as scales, feathers and
movement. Loungewear draws on these for
volumes and surface contrasts.
#BLUE CRAFTS
___ The most popular of all the colours has reached
its peak here – blue feels equally at home in
streetwear or couture lingerie. It is in celebratory
mood, whether alone or paired with other shades.
Japanese Shibori and denim are moving into
intimates for interesting combinations.
#SPORT ART
___ The beach, activewear and tribal art join
forces in this contemporary theme, inspired by
cubism. The popularity of technical treatments
leads to fabrics with high elastic modulus - spacers,
nets and knits. The microfibres used feature
cosmetic properties.
colours & flavours
Guest of honour on the Forum, Valérie Bloch illustrates the season-focused “Colours & Flavours” theme
with a selection of products from her Paris store “Ma Collection, Marchande de Saveurs”. A former
stylist/trend-watcher in the intimates sector, Valérie Bloch is now a veritable ambassador for a beautiful
range of quintessentially French delicacies, combining several of her passions in a single store: fashion,
interior design and gastronomy. Here, she tells us about her collaboration with Interfilière Paris.
.
#What will you be contributing to the show
as guest of honour on the Interfilière Paris
Forum?
___ I will be contributing my expertise in intimates
trends which I have built up over 20 years, my
collaboration with suppliers and four years of food
research to set up my gourmet grocery project.
Intimates and gastronomy share the same
inspiration and creative process (as can be seen in
lingerie collections, the creative flair of top chefs
and innovations in food ranges).
In my shop, I showcase a world of fine foods and
highlight small-scale producers who are veritable
artists, in the same vein as those who create lace,
embroidery, knits and accessories.
Going beyond a product’s utilitarian aspect and
purpose, in both gastronomy and textiles, it is the
sensorial element that takes centre stage. Colour,
texture, fragrance, flavour and feel are all highly
evocative.
I take inspiration from the same atmospheres and
desires to compile my trends, and collections:
using moods, emotions and colours to interpret
fashion currents.
There is a definite French ‘savoir-faire’ in both
fashion and gastronomy. They are two flagship
sectors, of which French industry can be proud.
#How do you combine flavour and fashion
and how will you demonstrate it at the show?
___ Interfilière Paris offers me an opportunity to
showcase two sectors that are quite different, yet
share a similar quest for aesthetics and taste. Look
and visuals are crucial in both domains. Whether
fabrics, packaging or foodstuffs, it is above all,
aesthetics that stimulate desire and take products
to another level.
I am presenting three themes for summer 2016:
Smooth flavours
A desire for natural tones and colours: truffle, salt,
bread, toasted shades.
Fresh recipe
Romanticism: summer, morning freshness, colours
to match the scent of flowers, herbs and citrus.
Flagrant delights
Bold combinations achieve the ambitious goal of
being graphic yet delicious, a treat for the eyes as
well as the taste-buds.
My aim is to awaken the senses, stimulate
emotions, inspire a particular state of mind...
Ma Collection, Marchande de Saveurs
33, rue Mazarine 75006 Paris
T. +33(0)1 46 34 76 82
02# Trends & New products from the exhibitors / January 2015 # 3
NEW
EXHIBITOR
PRODUCTS
bischoff textil ag
# January 2015 Edition
ap sourcing
AP Sourcing
Art Martin
Billon Design D2P Box
Bischoff Textil AG
Cheynet Elastics
Codentel
Colombo Antonio
Dea Dessins*
Dentelles Mery
Dogi International Fabrics*
Encajes
Giemme S.PA *
Iebosa
Kuroda Lace
Les Tissages Perrin
Legoplast *
Liebaert
Maglificio Ripa
Michele Letizia
Muehlmeier Bodyshaping
Pisa Tekstil
Profectia Manufacturing *
Rueff Textil
Satab
Seram
Siva
Sofileta
Solstiss
Studio Eleven*
VTL *
Willy Hermann
Yilba Tekstil *
* New exhibitor
4 # Interfilière Paris
billon design d2p box
AP Sourcing
top tip
_____________________
New ‘Metal click’ fastener, in a variety of different galvanicplated or painted colourways, with a clip system that
secures the fastening. Can be customized with the brand’s
colours or logo.
Art Martin
bonding
_____________________
In addition to accessories in vitamin shades, Summer
Buckles, which are lacquered or sequinned in a jewellery
style, fastenings with fun, two-tone clips in gold and silver
or coloured shades, as well as new varieties of heat-bonding
and new flat, metallic bones which can be transformed into
busks.
Billon Design D2P Box
loungewear
_____________________
Relaxed, high-cover fabrics, at once feminine and elegant
for soft comfortable blends, fluid or textured with placed
motifs, heathered and iridescent fabric effects.
Also worth noting, a new fabric with a 3D-effect coating,
spectacular against a black background and the reworked
Aqua lys Body Touch range, with yarn-dyed stripes on
microfibre and jerseys featuring gold lurex® threads.
NEW EXHIBITOR PRODUCTS
Bischoff Textil AG
contrasts
_____________________
This continually-updated collection is
structured by three key themes: Body, inspired
by the New York artist, Alana Dee Haynes,
who toys with graphics in black and white,
reinterpreted here in peachskin shades,
highlighted with grey, black and touches of
red and berry shades. Soul is a glamorous and
romantic theme, inspired by the ‘Wedding
Dresses 1775-2014’ exhibition, in shades of
white, delicate pearl hues and “something
blue”. The Mind theme is inspired by creative
hats, featuring radiant and strong colours,
from yellow to green and red, with blue making
a comeback, subdued by white and ivory
elements.
Colombo Antonio
laminated
_____________________
Lace innovation with this first laminated lace
for beachwear, which combines the unrivalled
charm of lace and the technical qualities of
laminate. The Ecolace collection is being
enhanced to include new designs.
cheynet elastics
dea dessins
dentelles mery
codentel
Cheynet Elastics
environmentally-sound
_____________________
New shoulder pad created using Ecocare,
Nilit’s recycled polyamide yarn, which offers
the same dyeability as traditional polyamide,
as well as comparable stability and technical
features.
Codentel
Dea Dessins*
inspired
_____________________
New Swiss designer worth discovering.
Specializing in loungewear, the company’s
creations draw on a variety of sources such as
designers, minimalism and origami, painting,
drawing and photography, glass-blowing and
ceramics, architecture and gardens.
favouring cotton
Dentelles Mery
wonderfully delicate
Development of new Leavers lace for
loungewear in cotton for smaller bands (90%
cotton), as well as 18cm galloons and wide
bands (70% cotton).
Fine Alençon and Chantilly lace bands
for loungewear, available separately or in
combinations with other materials and
Alençon lace in cotton (90%) and nylon (10%).
_____________________
_____________________
02# Trends & New products from the exhibitors / January 2015 # 5
Dogi International Fabrics*
true blue
_____________________
One of this season’s five themes, Indigo Couture, offers
a backdrop of faded denim and Japanese ink, for a
romantic jeans spirit, revisited in a Couture version. The
intense colours of Tropical Fruits, shades of caramel and
pastel tones in Sugar Lace, delicate green and yellow of
Fresh Garden and sand, terracotta and brown shades in
Dreams of Elegance round off this series of delicate and
colourful moods.
dogi international fabrics
giemme
Encajes
iebosa
Legoplast*
shapewear and legwear
_____________________
New allover lace for shapewear and tights,
allover lace for moulding and raw edges.
Wonderfully soft laces and a collection of
exclusive laces with a very special woven effect
also deserve particular attention.
Giemme S.PA*
tricky packaging
_____________________
These Italian-made bags are user-friendly,
environmentally-sound, aesthetic, reusable
and recognizable. New materials, mirrored
effects, new resealable and customizable
packaging solutions also available. Above all,
this soft-textured, transparent packaging lets
the products do the talking.
a festival of colour
_____________________
Ultra-fine yarns and colour combinations,
grainy yarns, dotted Swiss or smooth surfaces
for a variety of ever-changing creations. Slub
fabrics and sunny novelty fabrics. Lamé or
embroidered surface effects, dyeing and
finishing techniques for a subtle aged look.
Iebosa
romantic
_____________________
New printed embroidery with a fade effect,
matt embroidery on a pleated ground, with
iridescent or metallic dull and glossy effects
and new cotton effects, create a delicate and
subtle collection.
Kuroda Lace
high power lace
_____________________
Leaver-tone lace which has a delicate ground
net with a light feel. The bulky design looks
luxurious and almost three-dimensional.
6 # Interfilière Paris
legoplast
Liebaert
festive chic and retro
_____________________
Ultra-soft nanostitches in matt (roof-tile,
English green, aged blue, lie de vin and
deep blue) or satin-finish (deep reds, choco,
tangerine, lacquer). Jacquards creating the
effect of tulles embroidered with fancy yarns
for a pearlescent, matt or glistening finish.
Openwork geometric or ethnic jacquards,
various digital prints and new tone-on-tone
prints in lacquer on sateen, matt and glossy or
in contrasting colours. More flocks and sequins
for revisiting ethnic designs, paisley patterns
and small-scale ‘embroidery’ style motifs.
NEW EXHIBITOR PRODUCTS
Maglificio Ripa
high-tech toning
_____________________
New collection developed using the ceramicbased Nilit Innergy fibre. Mineral additives
absorb the body’s energy and use far infrared
technology to reflect it back. This creates a
test-certified toning and stimulating effect,
for fabrics targeting the following markets:
sportswear, shapewear and anti-cellulite
underwear.
Michele Letizia
crochet effect
_____________________
michele letizia
maglificio ripa
Fine crochet lace and a new collection of new
products for seamless and hosiery applications.
Three strong themes: Artistic, with an
explosion of colours and textures (capturing
the atmosphere of an Indian celebration),
Brise Japonaise (kimono spirit, Japanese-style
florals, wide belts) and Murmure d’autrefois
(hand-made, romantic and bohemian feel) with
soft cloudy, greenish, slightly gritty shades.
Muehlmeier Bodyshaping
technological innovations
pisa tekstil
_____________________
M-TEC® Snow White Wadding/Padding, new
generation of bra-cups in polyester microfibre
for total comfort thanks to the fibre’s new
structure. One-Material Cradle to Cradle bracup, 100% ecological from design through to
recycling. M-TEC® BraCup with ‘anti-aging’
properties thanks to the microencapsulated
active
ingredients
contained
in
Meryl®Hyaluronan, integrated within the fibre
(Nylgold of Nylstar). The ArtDeco collection
of jewellery accessories has been expanded
to include new sparkling ribbons, inlaid with
gemstones of various colours.
muehlmeier bodyshaping
Pisa Tekstil
activewear and loungewear
_____________________
liebaert
A collection of coated and laminated fabrics for
elegant and comfortable activewear, a range of
structured fabrics with silky hand-feels and a
wide selection of digital prints with a natural
feel, brushed surfaces, a “hand-made” look for
ethnic designs and paint effects. Also worth
noting: a masculine range of stretch jerseys
in mercerized cotton and two-way stretch
polyamide and finally a line of multifunctional
fabrics which feel very silky, with luxurious
blends of wool and cashmere for loungewear.
02# Trends & New products from the exhibitors / January 2015 # 7
Profectia Manufacturing*
high-end
_____________________
Specializing in upmarket manufacturing, Profectia
boasts a range of know-how gained from the former
Tricorelo company. Capable of short-run production
and carrying out full product development, the company
employs around thirty seamstresses who are highly
qualified in manual cutting, assembling and finishing
techniques.
Rueff Textil
printing knits
_____________________
profectia manufacturing
Vast collection of knits printed in Austria, with
coordinating plains, in cotton or cotton blends, Modal,
elastane polyamide and viscose/elastane. Option of
bespoke printing and colours on base fabrics supplied
by the client. Selection of 4,000 designs and variety of
printing techniques.
SATAB
silicone ribbon
rueff textil
_____________________
Satab offers the widest range of textile and silicone
based products worldwide.
Through the deployment of its research and development
which has become a veritable laboratory for innovation,
Satab, leading European ribbon manufacturer
transforms ribbons into pioneering products out of
a fashion technical mix. Silicon thread now enables
weaves which enhance the range of models siliconed by
application or by print. Used in fashion, accessories and
sport products, nonslip, sticky and colourful silicone
has become indispensable.
Satab
Seram
the very best in accessories
_____________________
Three new collections: Aura, a range of gifts and
promotional items (bags, pouches, jewellery, hair
accessories, brooches, charms, scented items, purses,
mirrors, fashion accessories and skin jewellery).
Couture, a collection designed for decorating and
trimming boxes and gift-boxes and Metal Sticker, a
line of adhesive metal plaques and decorative plates
which can either be sewn-on or used with ribbon. New
accessories for decorating and customizing intimates
and beachwear (bows, straps, flowers, metal elements,
jewels, etc.) and new textile transfers and fabric cutting
(heat-transfer motifs, laser-cutting and engraving on
LYCRA®, cutwork on lace or stretch knits, etc.).
8 # Interfilière Paris
seram
NEW EXHIBITOR PRODUCTS
Siva
effects and fantasy
_____________________
Various stretch or rigid Raschel-type laces,
available in a variety of mono or two-tone
widths: stretch Raschel with a gold Lurex
‘bourdonnette’ thread or a double colourway
with a special effect using a jacquard motif
on viscose. Very light “Sivalencienne”
lace for stretch bands of different heights.
Jacquardtronic lace for small two-tone stretch
bands or in a fancy finish with lots of openwork.
siva
Sofileta
softly does it
_____________________
solstiss
A new comprehensive range for wonderfully
soft loungewear with fluid fabrics and shaping
knits: textured microfibres and nanofibres,
adjusted constructions, carbon brushing and
emerizing.
Also worth noting, a range of veritable “clean
cut” articles, including traditional cutting,
suitable for ultrasonic welding, bonding and
raw edges (without rolling), a line of functional
and smart softshells, compression knits and a
line of body-shaping knits for swimwear.
Solstiss
luminescence
_____________________
New collection of lace featuring a silk warp
with viscose for unrivalled softness and radiant
designs. Hand-finished chiffon ribbons add an
extra special touch to lace motifs.
Studio Eleven*
the artist’s signature
_____________________
studio eleven
The
hand-painted
motifs
from
this
contemporary art and textile design studio are
the work of its owner, the artist Stacey Piltzer.
These ready-to-print designs can be made
available in bespoke dimensions on request,
perfectly reproduced as allover patterns or
panels.
02# Trends & New products from the exhibitors / January 2015 # 9
NEW EXHIBITOR PRODUCTS
Les Tissages Perrin
precise and effective
_____________________
Importance of graphics, lines and geometrics
and precision in silk or satin-blend jacquards
with a very silk-like effect, soft and glossy (lace,
florals, paisley) and floral prints with large
watercolour or sketched motifs. Wide range of
designs and weaves for the Soielynes range in
125 cm width and jacquards coordinating with
plains for the Smocks range. Gorgeous grainy
texture for the surface of the Friselis satin in
135 cm width.
VTL*
casualwear
_____________________
Specializing in sportswear and casualwear,
VTL is a leading manufacturer in Tunisia’s
textile market, boasting ten production
sites and twelve specialized teams. A fullyintegrated company, it handles everything
from product development and sourcing,
through to production, dyeing, finishing and
embellishment.
les tissages perrin
yilba tekstil
Yilba Tekstil*
circular knitting
_____________________
New exhibitor, present in the intimates and
shapewear, swimwear, sports and fitness
markets. Part of the ERBA group, the company
specializes in circular knits, tulle and Raschel
knits in polyester, blended polyamide and
elastane.
willy hermann
Willy Hermann
wool and cotton
_____________________
New collection of E60-gauge Superfine knits in very fine jacquards, offering an extremely dense and
compact surface. Another new development: double-sided E80-gauge knits combine two materials
for different looks and functions. The sleepwear range has been expanded to include cottons,
MicroModal, wool, silk and angora, offered with either a natural look or glossier surface. Pastel
shades, fine surface structures and micro-patterns create a soft and muted feel.
10 # Interfilière Paris
#03
Silk
a timeless NOBLE MATERIAL
It takes three times as many letters to describe it as to name it! Is it the
word or the material itself that is magical?
In-com-pa-ra-ble, ex-cep-tion-al: silk is both.
H
ow does silk transcend the centuries unaffected by external forces, such as economic
crises, competition from synthetics and fashion cycles?
Silk thread producers have all but disappeared from Europe and are becoming ever
rarer in Italy, leaving the market for this precious raw yarn to Asian and Brazilian producers.
What does the future hold for this fabric with a history dating back over 450 centuries?
A well-preserved niche
market
___ The silk market went through a brief period
of instability, with continually rising silk
prices linked to thread availability. “Supply
has now returned to normal, with high-quality
fabrics and stabilizing prices, even though
price levels are far higher than 18 months ago”
underlines Will Steele, managing director of
Pongees, an 80-year old English silk company
based in central London for the last twenty years.
Improved silk-farming in China has reassured
silk specialists regarding the availability of
high-quality thread sourcing options. “Rising
thread prices and the corresponding increase in
the price of silk fabrics have affected the middle
of the range, driving producers and shoppers
alike to seek out silk blends, rather than pure
silks. Spared the full impact, Haute Couture
and luxury lingerie remain loyal to pure silk,”
continues Will Steele.
It is worth noting that silk remains unaffected
by the economic crisis.
Press Kit Interfilière Paris January 24|25|26 2015 # Market focus: silk and loungewear
marjolaine
SILK, a timeless NOBLE MATERIAL!
LISE CHARMEL
PONGEES
Apsara Silks offers a very wide range of pure
silks in plain or jacquard versions, dupion,
taffeta, chiffon, organza, satin, crepe and
tussah. The Indian specialist has observed
an increased demand from one season to the
next: “New developments allow a wider scope of
applications, with stretch silks and less fragile
fabrics”, confirms Anand Goenka, Managing
Director of Apsara Silks.
Although attempts to bring silk to a wider
customer-base have succeeded in ready-towear, using new washed versions, they have
been far less popular with lingerie brands,
whether new or established, which are keen
to protect the image of silk. “Silk has to
remain an exclusive and elite fabric. Cheap silks
have flooded a number of mass-market brands,
with aggressive campaigns which have had a
negative effect on silk. But we have to admit
that the quality of Chinese silk is constantly
improving,” underlines Jacques Daumal, CEO
of Lise Charmel*.
Is it a coincidence that the British silk
nightwear specialist, Olivia Van Halle*,
which launched in 2011 and has already
won over celebrities like Victoria Beckham
and Gwyneth Paltrow, purchases silk from both
Italian and Chinese companies?
Marjolaine* has chosen a different option,
favouring silk above all other fabrics, with some
dozen exclusively silk themes. The brand’s
signature fabric is lace-inlaid satin and its
sourcing is carried out in only one country:
China. A choice justified by the use of silk on
larger garments. “Some time ago, we mainly used
polyester, with a little silk. But when the price of
polyester went up, we switched practically our
entire collection to silk. We do have to keep an eye
on prices though,” points out Stéphane Guérin,
who directs the Lyon-based company. Handled
in the same way, polyester and silk were used
together for several seasons. Consumers soon
showed a preference. “They prefer silk, not for
its famous sheen, which is very similar, but simply
because it’s silk. That’s the magic of silk!” enthuses
Carole Guérin, Collections Manager.
* exhibitors, Salon International de la Lingerie
Describing silk requires an arsenal of adjectives that are enough to make the head spin: vibrant,
timeless, sensual, sumptuous, luxurious, subtle, delicate, refined, fragile...
Sought-after and coveted, silk is capable of plunging certain sensitive personalities into a degree of
fetishism, such as Marie Benjamin, who was found to have fainted with pleasure, gripping a length of red
silk fabric, stolen from a Parisian department store. That was just a century ago in 1914. One hundred
years have passed, and the magic of silk remains. Unshakeable, in a market dominated by cutting-edge
research to develop smart textiles.
2 # Interfilière Paris
Silk makes
anything
possible
___ Magical, silk never fails to
attract interest. Its high-end
elegance can be interpreted
in innumerable ways, as
demonstrated by young and
talented designers, with no
lack of inspiration. Meng*, a
young London-based designer
who runs an eponymous brand,
offers a veritable celebration of
silk. It is the only fabric used
OLIVIA VON HALLE
in Meng’s luxury homewear
collection, with a definite
Oriental influence, as revealed in sumptuous
kimonos with beautiful swathes of flowers. “I am
equally passionate about its long history, that we
have inherited, as the fabric itself, which allows me
to offer garments a truly artistic dimension,” admits
Meng. Selected in the UK and Italy, her silks are,
indeed, handled like an artist’s canvas. With prices
averaging at €1,000, the Meng collection has enjoyed
considerable success in London’s finest stores.
Although Olivia van Halle* probably developed her
passion for silk during the years spent working in
Shanghai’s luxury sector, her collection, launched
three years ago, embodies a resolutely Western
style, inspired by the roaring twenties. Silk satins,
featuring minimalist prints, create a fabulous sheen
for androgynous pyjamas, including the famous
Coco design, inspired by the Great Lady herself.
“No other fabric can rival what silk inspires the very
moment you touch it. Silk has an incredible capacity
to make colours come to life,” enthuses Olivia, who is
also based in London.
How could Inès de la Fressange*, firmly positioned
within this elegant domain, resist the call of silk
for her first loungewear collection launched this
year? “The collection is not, however, intended as
a traditional ‘silk’ line as one might assume, with
lingerie-inspired effects, shine, satin and lace inlay.
Instead, we have looked to fashion for inspiration. The
brand’s signature is Parisian Chic,” explains Grégoire
Chalumet, Managing Director of Le Chat *which
makes the collection. Silk offers the ideal transition
between ready-to-wear and intimates, which is used
to gorgeous effect in the washed silks, silk crepes
and printed satins (sourced in Germany) in the
loungewear collection by Inès de la Fressange*.
MENG
03# Market focus: silk and loungewear / January 2015 # 3
SILK, a timeless NOBLE MATERIAL!
taubert
PROFECTIA MANUFACTURING
No mean feat!
___ Historically loyal to silk, prestigious Italian
and French brands insist on the paradoxical
modernity of a fabric which the human hand
refuses to transform: cool in summer, warm in
winter, soft in every season, it protects skin.
Like the cocoon protects its chrysalis. “Quality
is our only requirement for this fabric, an essential
luxury element in the world of intimates. It is the
signature of our excellence,” summarizes Alba
Rosa Ceccatelli, Style Director at G.Paladini*.
Silk is a material that has to be deserved.
Extremely fragile, terribly delicate, it
commands equal respect from those by whom
it is woven or knitted, as from those who work
with it. And those who wear it, of course. At
Lise Charmel*, silk is worked on by specific
creative teams. Having played a key role in
developing silk and LYCRA®, the brand, uses
the precious thread in all its forms: in weaves
or knits, pure silk or rich blends with cashmere,
in satins or dévorés. “End-customers still find
smaller garments easy to care for. Only larger
garments are harder to iron. Customers are not
put off by garment care guidelines. Nor by prices.
Not for intimates anyway. It all depends where
each person’s buying resistance begins,” explains
Sylvia Daumal, Creative Director.
Shoppers tend to be prepared to go the extra
mile for silk because silk has a power that no
other fabric can rival: “Women are no longer the
same person when they slip on silk nightwear,”
sums up Carole Guérin (Marjolaine*).
4 # Interfilière Paris
Would these customers have any idea that
the fabric expertise and know-how required
to work with silk is enough to make some
designers think twice? “Lingerie brands have
developed cutting-edge know-how in knits, but
often at the expense of wovens. I have seen style
directors hesitating before deciding against
silk,” confirms Jean-Laurent Perrin, Managing
Director of Les Tissages Perrin. According
to highly specialized subcontractors like
Profectia Manufacturing, which works for ID
Sarrieri and is exhibiting for the first time at
Interfilière Paris, silk should only be worked
on by expert hands: “We have around thirty
specialized seamstresses who take meticulous
care of silks. They often require hand-finishing,”
explains Alain Chmilweski, Director of
Profectia Manufacturing.
Discrete
and yet …
___
Leavers and Silk, these two exceptional
materials merge seamlessly into the most
sublime form of lingerie. Noyon Dentelle is
capable of offering exceptional Calais lace
made from pure silk. “Unfortunately these
products are extremely fragile and customers who
dare to take the plunge are rare”, explains Olivier
Noyon, with regret. Successfully reproducing
colours is a complex process for fibres which
are not the most manageable. Degumming,
which involves removing the sericin which
surrounds the silk fibroin in order to highlight
silk’s characteristic softness and prepare it for
dyeing, can be problematic: “Colour matching
can be difficult since no two threads are the
same,” admits Olivier Noyon.
A number of criteria do need to be respected
with silk, when dyeing it for example. “But
that doesn’t affect our commitment to silk,
whether in the form of yarns on our machines
or in ribbons that are ‘re-embroidered’ onto lace.
These articles are slightly more expensive than the
average products in our collection and are therefore
reserved for a very upscale clientele who can afford
to buy whatever they love”, confirms Adeline Sapin,
creative and style manager at Solstiss.
Fragile but highly resistant, the knit yarn is well
suited to flat knitting machines. The German
company, Taubert*, uses a very specific Chinese
yarn and creates knits with a natural stretch that
do not fray: “The knits are very pure and extremely
fine but quantities are limited, because setting the
machines is a complex task,” cautions Andrea
Palm, Sales Director at Taubert*. Silk has long
been one of Willy Hermann’s traditional
materials. It is combined with wool for tubular
knits designed for seamless briefs, tops and
camisoles. “Our clients often use it with lace and
embroidery. We offer various weights depending on
the seasons, with a variety of knit constructions.
However these fabrics are still restricted to the top
end of the market,” underlines Martin Hermann,
Managing Director of Willy Hermann, who
is keen to bring silk to a wider audience with
new blends with a low silk content: cotton/silk
(9%) and MicroModal/silk (15%). These blends
are designed for a different clientele, who are
looking for silky fabrics, without paying the
price of pure silks. Willy Hermann enhances
the silky look and feel with a specific surface
treatment, the aptly-named: ‘splendid’. “The
results achieved with these new Superfine fabrics,
in viscose circular knit and polyamide flat knits, are
highly encouraging. But, whatever happens, clients
that are loyal to silk will continue to ask for pure
silks,” confirms Martin Hermann.
Vigilant and attentive to their clients, Les
Tissages Perrin have also renewed their range.
By changing sourcing practices and working with
proximity-based partners, they have succeeded
in bringing down prices by up to 20%, without
affecting quality. New silk-look polyamide
fabrics have has also been added to the range.
“By duplicating our silks on polyamides, we are
responding to a demand expressed by the market,”
adds Jean-Laurent Perrin.
At the end of the day, technologies will
continue to improve, prices will continue
to fluctuate, synthetics will do their best to
imitate it but silk remains silk: exceptional,
timeless and eternal.
marjolaine
marjolaine
les TISSAGES PERRIN
les TISSAGES PERRIN
Given the scarcity of statistics on the silk
market, they are as precious as the Bombyx
Mori thread itself.
In volume terms, silk represents only a very low
percentage of the global textile fibre market, less
than 1%. In value terms, however, silk is very wellplaced with unit prices which can reach as high as
20 times that of cotton.
Silk production throughout the world now
represents 4.7 kilos per minute, or over 150,000
tons per year. Representing nearly 70% of
worldwide production, China is the top-ranked
producer country. India, Uzbekistan, Thailand and
Brazil are some of the other main producers.
In 2013, France imported 388 tonnes of silk yarn,
i.e. 18% more than in 2012.
03# Market focus: silk and loungewear / January 2015 # 5
loungewear
FINDS ITS FEET
A market that has everything going for it: synonymous with comfort and
wellbeing, it conveys an air of calm and softness, evoking relaxed
elegance. Warm on the inside, stylish on the outside, to put it simply, it
achieves exactly what it set out to do.
A
fully-expanding sector, loungewear
has proved itself a good choice for
those brands that were prepared
to try it. Created around a decade ago,
loungewear has become a market in its own
right, as demonstrated by the fabulous fabric
ranges being showcased at Interfilière Paris
Cross-over products
___ Although loungewear distinguished itself
from nightwear from the outset, by identifying
with cross-over garments, it has undeniably been
inspired by the comfort of nightwear fabrics.
From homewear, it has retained a certain idea of
elegance, relaxed and stylish at the same time.
Finally, it has looked to ready-to-wear for its
precise, simple and natural cuts: shirts, shirtdresses and loose-fit trousers. Olivia Van Halle*,
who has chosen to specialize in Loungewear, has
hit the nail on the head. Her best-sellers are the
‘Coco’ trousers, offering comfort at home and
elegance elsewhere.
Created around a concept at the meeting point
between sleepwear and outerwear, loungewear
ended up finding exactly the right path, following
on from the 1980s and ‘cocooning’ and offering a
first glimpse of a new vision of fashion: wellbeing.
Though cosy and protective, the ‘cocoon’ is now
looking for a breath of fresh air. The Interfilière
Paris exhibitors have taken this on board:
loungewear should also look good when worn out
and about. “We are developing new fabrics that are
comfortable and soft but very smooth. I’m talking
about cotton, MicroModal, wool, silks and/or angora.
These fabrics need to feel natural, yet offer a lovely
surface sheen. Colours should be pastels but not flat
shades, with tiny motifs or a crepe effect to make
them more elegant,” explains Martin Hermann
who has achieved this perfect fabric balance with
the Superfine range from Willy Hermann.
6 # Interfilière Paris
le chat
03# Market focus: silk and loungewear / January 2015 # 7
Loungewear, giving free
rein to expression
le chat
OLIVIA VON HALLE
8 # Interfilière Paris
___ Loungewear follows its own set of rules
to create garments that can be revealed or
concealed. Brands understand the danger
of taking the ‘hybrid’ concept too far which
could be fatal in a fully-expanding market.
Both leading brands and young designers are
clearly positioning themselves with regard
to the same target, mid-to-high range.
Loungewear is designed for reasonably
wealthy women, aged between 25 and 55,
mainly city-dwelling and cultured. Each
brand has its own specific niche. For
Hanro*, it is clearly knits, used in a refined
‘cocooning’ style, inspired by leisurewear
(Hanro* belongs to the knit specialist,
HuberHolding). “Comfort takes priority,
wrap-around styles, fine and soft fabrics,
cashmeres and merino wools, MicroModals
but not chunky fleece, jerseys and ribs, and soft
colour codes with lots of heathered effects,”
summarizes Anne Raoul-Duval, Director of
Hanro* France. In a completely different
register, the brand new collection by Inès
de La Fressange* launched this winter, and
produced by Le Chat, reflects a stylish spirit
à la Parisienne. “We have taken inspiration
from fashion and ready-to-wear to create
homewear designs in washed silk, in a different
style from what can be found on the market
,with one single requirement: the quality of
exclusively European fabrics,” underlines
Grégoire Chalumet. For its first season, the
collection presented in Galeries Lafayette
and Printemps (in spaces measuring 25
m²) has been a resounding success. The
specialists at Interfilière Paris are ready and
waiting. Starting with Les Tissages Perrin
who have worked on three specific ranges:
jacquards on extremely light satin, in 100%
silk (Séduction), silk jacquards (51%) and
cotton (49%) coordinated with plains and
featuring an ultra-soft finish (Audace); and
a Friselis satin range, with a grainy textured
effect, which is currently very popular in
ready-to-wear.
lOUNGEWEAR FINDS ITS FEET
The feel-good factor
___ The two collections from the Belgian brand,
Pluto* and Pluto on the Moon*, take their
inspiration from leisurewear. “What we want
to express is the excellence of Belgian design,
with very high quality materials for women with
a reasonably high income. The loungewear from
Pluto on the Moon is more fun. It varies between
an elegant style with a definite “tomboy” feel and
a vintage spirit, all evoking a slightly bohemian,
luxury mood,” explains An Kluft, the brand’s
Managing Director.
Created for and through loungewear, the
young Nice-based label Occidente positioned
itself as a highly ethical brand from the outset.
“Ecological fabrics are the logical choice for
these garments, which are comfortable, modern,
versatile and cosmopolitan, while still falling
within a certain price range,” confirms Jina
Luciani, who created the brand.
Despite their differences, brands such as
Marjolaine* and La Fabbricadel Lino share
a key priority: fabric selection, precious fabrics
for Marjolaine*, which uses 90% silk, and silkcashmere blends and natural materials for the
Italian brand, which prefers to work with linen
and cotton, viscose, wool and cashmere for
timeless loungewear.
Not a shadow of a doubt for Eberjey: the lovely
Miami-based brand has built its entire identity
around softness. “It is a constant feature. These
garments are very special to their wearers and
therefore require fabrics – cotton, baby jersey
rayon and structured knits – which are as soft as
the softest caress. All our fabrics and accessories
must satisfy an in-house ‘softness test’. This
puts us in a position to create truly exceptional
garments,” explains Ana Baraya, International
Account Executive at Eberjey.
Softness is omnipresent in new developments
to be discovered at Interfilière Paris. At Pisa
Tekstil, multifunctional knits offer a new silk
hand-feel and have been reworked in soft and
cosy blends with wool and cashmere. Pisa
Tekstil has also used wool in blends with
mercerized cotton and viscose for lighter
weights and finer gauges.
WILLY HERMANN
03# Market focus: silk and loungewear / January 2015 # 9
lOUNGEWEAR FINDS ITS FEET
La fabrica del lino
Hanro
Making inroads in-store
___ Although the loungewear sector is now
being taken seriously, it has yet to truly find
its place in retail outlets. How should such
multifaceted and multi-use products be
showcased to optimal effect? How and where
should garments be presented when they are
so close to ready-to-wear, yet clearly identified
with the world of intimates and not actually
that far-removed from interior design and
home textiles? Moreover, several brands, such
as La Fabbricadel Lino and Meng*, also
produce interiors accessories. “The retailing
problem is holding back the development of
loungewear. This is a market that still needs
to find its network and its place in stores,”
explains Anne Raoul Duval. The largest Yves
Delorme shops represent 10% of distribution
for the Hanro France* loungewear range.
“But the development of sales in this network
is striking,” she underlines. Although Eberjey
operates its own network, boasting around
500 retail outlets, the brand is delighted to
have successfully launched in France, through
stores such as Paul & Joe*… while gearing up
to convince department stores such as Le Bon
Marché.
10 # Interfilière Paris
What about men?
___ Are men ready to lounge? Not yet. But
progress has been made. Although Hanro
*believes that “much remains to be done”, its
loungewear range has been enriched to include
four masculine themes with mix-and-match
sweaters, T-shirts and trousers in coordinating
knits and flannel. “For men, pride of place needs
to be given to fabrics. It’s more complicated in
price terms,” observes Anne Raoul Duval.
La Fabbricadel Lino is also introducing a
range designed for men, featuring trousers,
shorts, T-shirts and casual shirts for next
summer. However, for the majority of brands,
the Loungewear universe remains exclusively
feminine... and yet … attentive brands will
notice a number of typically masculine
developments at Interfilière Paris, which are
clearly ready to win over male customers:
stretch jerseys, super soft mercerized cottons
and fine structured knits.
A festival
of subtle
fabrics
at Interfilière Paris
30 years after launching its first intimates collection,
Billon is launching its first Loungewear collection under its
new name Billon Design D2P: structured knits in blends
of different yarns have been used for ultra-feminine fancy
fabrics in discrete shades, faux plains and openwork fabrics
using wonderfully soft materials: MicroModal, silk, viscose
and wool. Billon took 18 months to develop this carefully
constructed and coherent collection.
Piave Maitex is prioritizing the feel of its fabrics and
offering an updated collection of cellulose fabrics (viscose,
lyocell, modal,etc.), natural fabrics with lovely blends of silk
and cashmere, always featuring a good level of stretch: a
collection of casual and comfortable knits offer an invitation
to relax but are also ideal for moulding applications. Also
present in the loungewear market, Liebaert has rounded
off its range strategically, with polyamide/LYCRA® blends,
stretch cotton tulles and silk/LYCRA® blends. Willy
Hermann combines MicroModal with silk for 44-gauge
Superfine fabrics, as well as circular knit viscose fabrics and
50-gauge flat-knit polyamides.
Noteworthy innovations include a new ultra-light fabric
with a quilted effect from Boselli, which is also presenting
chiffons and 3D-effect double satins. One of the only lacemakers producing Alençon lace, the French company Mery
offers a specific range of exceptional small-scale bands for
loungewear. Cotton lace from Codentel has been reworked
to satisfy the requirements of brands such as Paladini* and
Eres*, which are looking to combine cashmere with Calais
lace, whether inlaid or as trims to imitate a hand-made look.
liebaert
piave maitex
giemme
Two new exhibitors are specializing in the loungewear
market: the Swiss design studio Dea Dessins, directed by
Andrea Buck. Featuring a variety of sources of inspiration
(painting, photography, architecture, origami and ethnic
sources, as well as baroque designers, such as Vivienne
Westwood and Alexander McQueen), her designs are
definitely worth a look. The Italian company, Giemme, is
also taking an interest in loungewear. A major specialist
in flat knits, it is offering a variety of blends using wool,
cashmere, silk, viscose, modal and lyocell for ultra-fine
fabrics, slubs, grainy yarns and subtle, creative fabrics.
dea dessins
03# Market focus: silk and loungewear / January 2015 # 11
INTERFILIÈRE EVENTS
THROUGHOUT THE WORLD IN 2015
___ HONG KONG ___
18/19 March 2015
___ PARIS ___
4/5/6 July 2015
___ NEW YORK ___
21 September 2015
___ SHANGHAI ___
12/13 October 2015
PRESS CONTACT
PRESS PROMENADE
Claire Correia Santos
Magdalena Ficon
T. +33 (0)9 51 50 51 67
[email protected]
[email protected]
Downloadable show photos:
www.interfiliere.com
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